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summer 2019

INSIDE...

INTERVIEW WITH PULP RIOT SALON CYMRU 2019 MEET BARBERING'S RISING STAR

r o f e n i z a g a m y l n o s e r e th s s e r d r i a h e c i t n appre


Hair by Robert Masciave. Photography by Roberto Aguilar.

Leapfrog into the limelight and give your career the best start possible with ClubStar membership The hairdressing industry is very competitive and busy business to be in, one where experience counts for everything! ClubStar membership is a sure fire way to get ahead, it’s the first step on the Fellowship ladder for hairdressers aged 16-25 and the ClubStar Art Team provides the best head start with mentoring, education and plenty of exciting opportunities.

fellowshiphair.com | info@fellowshiphair.com


Summer 2019 / Editor's Note

S

o, what’s been happening here at Concept Hair HQ? Well, since launching the CH Apprentice of the Month in February on our Insta channel we’ve been blown away by your amazing photos! Please keep sending in your pictures so we can show you off to the world. Even if you don’t get nominated, your work could be featured on our social media channels or even in the magazine!

summer 2019

INSIDE...

INTERVIEW WITH PULP RIOT SALON CYMRU 2019 MEET BARBERING'S RISING STAR

e for magazin the only airdressers ice h apprent

This time next year we will be congratulating our very first Concept Hair Apprentice of the Year 2020 winners. That’s right, we are launching our very own UK apprentice hairdressing and barbering competition next year. Remember, the more competitions you enter, the more you put yourselves out there for people to see, the more confidence you will get. It’s a great way to make a name for yourself and get noticed. You should all be very excited and proud to be part of such a vibrant, fabulous industry! There are so many different brands to work with and incredibly talented brand ambassadors that will help you make a fantastic success of your career. Not every industry has multi-award-winning role models that you can watch and learn from like the hairdressing and barbering industry!

Celia Matthews Managing Editor

www.concepthairmag.co.uk COVER PHOTO CREDIT: Pulp Riot

Search: ConceptHairMag

MANAGING EDITOR: CELIA MATTHEWS celia.matthews@sng-publishing.co.uk ASSISTANT EDITOR: HOLLY CARTER DIGITAL EDITOR: TOM TRACEY tom.tracey@sng-publishing.co.uk

DISCLAIMER Concept Hair Magazine is published by SNG Publishing Ltd (SNG). All content and artwork is © SNG Publishing Ltd or its contributors and SNG is a trade mark of SNG Publishing Ltd. No part of Concept Hair Magazine may be copied, transmitted or published in any form or by any means without prior permission.

ADVERTISING: ZOË TANNER zoë.tanner@sng-publishing.co.uk

Although SNG has made every effort to ensure the accuracy of this publication, it does not verify any claims or other information appearing in the advertisements contained in Concept Hair Magazine. It therefore cannot accept any responsibility whatsoever for consequences that may arise from the content or artwork contained in Concept Hair Magazine, including any errors or omissions or any opinions or advice given therein. This publication and its content is not a substitute for professional advice on a particular matter.

PRINTERS Stephens & George, England

Advertisements are accepted for publication in Concept Hair only upon SNG Publishing Ltd standard terms of advertising.

GRAPHIC DESIGNER: LEE OWEN design@sng-publishing.co.uk TECHNICAL CONTRIBUTOR: VTCT, Pivot Point

GENERAL ENQUIRIES To subscribe to Concept Hair Magazine call 0121 767 1891 or subscribe online at www.concepthairmag.co.uk

© SNG Publishing Ltd, 2019

Concept Hair / 01


Summer 2019 \ Contents

contents

44

01

Editor’s Note

04 Latest News 06 Trending 08 Could you be Concept Hair’s Apprentice of the Month?

24

09 Competition: Hot Tools Professional 10

20 Things I Love with Richard Mannah

11

The Interview: Pulp Riot

14

A Day in the Life of… a Hair Photographer

16

Fashioning a Future with Hair

18

Salon Cymru Competition 2019

22

The Interview: Steven Smart

24

Superstar Salons

26

Through the Keyhole: Doncaster College

28

How to Create the Hot Tools Beach Vibe!

32

Meet the Afro Hair Queen

34

How to Create 90s Muse Look

36

Know Your Length

38

How to Create Bridal Look

40 Top Tips: Bridal by Rory Mason 42

The Hairdressers’ Charity Fundraising Ball

44 The Interview: Angelo Seminara 46 Take Control 48 A Head for Business Skills 49 App-rentice with… Wella

22

50

Your Career Path

52

Look Book – Student Work

55

Look Book – Beach Hair

57

Look Book – Bridal Hair

59

Look Book – Afro Hair

61

Look Book – Fashion Hair


Summer 2019 / Contents

63

Concept Barbering

18

64 Dale Hince: Hairdresser Turned Barber 66

Barber Connect: Calling All Barbering Apprentices!

67

Rising Star: Harvey Luke Allen

68 Scotland’s Best Student Barber 2019 Announced!

28

64

46

14 Exercises 69 Exercises

32

70

Technical Skills

71

Curly Hair

72

Flat Top

10

Concept Hair / 03


Summer 2019 \ News

latesTNews

1

Are you aware of the new minimum wage for apprentices?

T

he National Minimum Wage and National Living Wages increased on 1st April. Apprentices are entitled to the apprentice rate of the National Minimum Wage if they are either under 19, or 19 or over and in the first year of their apprenticeship. Apprentices over 19 who have completed the first year of their apprenticeship are entitled to the National Minimum Wage for their age. As of 1st April, the minimum apprentice hourly wage went up from £3.70 to £3.90. For 18 to 20-year-olds, the minimum is £6.15, £7.70 for 21 to 24-year-olds and £8.21 for 25-year-olds and over. The wages go up each year with a view to keeping pay proportionate to inflation.

3 I

ghd unveils its Festival Collection

nspired by the carnival spirit and vibrant energy of global music festivals, ghd has unveiled its most hedonistic headliner yet with the ghd Festival Collection – a collection that heroes a kaleidoscope of colours. There’s never been a better time to have fun with your hair! The ghd Platinum+ Styler retails at £175 and has sensors which predict your hair needs and adapt power accordingly.

04 / Concept Hair

2

Trevor Sorbie launches MYNEWHAIR charity in Canada

C

elebrity hairdresser Trevor Sorbie MBE has expanded his medical hair loss charity mynewhair into Canada. Trevor set-up mynewhair in 2006 in memory of his sister-in-law who lost her hair through cancer treatment. The charity provides advice and support to around 2,000 UK and Ireland stylists and salons who provide a wig styling service for people suffering from cancer and medical hair loss. Trevor and his training team led a two-day nurse-led wigcutting and styling seminar and workshop for professional hairdressers at L'Oréal’s Toronto and Montreal academies. Trevor said: “When people - especially women lose their hair, they're still the same person but suddenly they are treated differently and this has a ripple effect. By giving a woman hair, you're giving her a part of herself back.”

Find out more at www.m

ynewhair.org

The ghd Gold Styler (£139) contains dual-zone technology for premium performance and offers a modernised design. The ghd Air Hairdryer has a professional-strength motor and delivers exceptionally fast drying and styling, while helping to reduce frizz. RRP £99. The range is only available for a limited time.

Find out more at www.ghdhair.com


Summer 2019 / News

4

L

Get your tickets for the TrendVision regional heats

imited tickets are still available for Wella Professionals TrendVision Award 2019 UK & Ireland Regional Heats.

The TrendVision Award Regional & Ireland Heats have a whole new look for 2019. The Regional Heats have been aptly called #wellacreativeremix and feature a whole new format. Each event will have a relaxed, informal and creative vibe, with a model showcase. The UK events will include catwalk shows from HOB Academy Art Team and D&J Ambrose Art Team. Southern Region: Monday 20th May 2019, London (Grand Connaught Rooms)

5 L

Andis launches new ANDIS NATION UK BARBER SCHOLARSHIP

aunching at Barber Connect on 1st June, two winning applicants will receive free training from Mike Taylor Education to accelerate their career progression from an unqualified barber to NVQ Level 3. Judging criteria will include submitting essays on your motivation to become a barber, community involvement and previous work experience or transferable skills applicable to the industry. Bruce Bock, Andis Corporate Communications, said: “The Andis Nation UK Barber Scholarship programme is an amazing opportunity for aspiring talents to achieve qualification and increase their skills and career prospects.

Midlands Region: Tuesday 21st May 2019, Nottingham (East Midlands Conference Centre)

“We’re excited to partner with Mike Taylor whose reputation as a master barber and educator is second to none.”

Ireland: Monday 19th August 2018, Dublin (Intercontinental Hotel Dublin)

The deadline to apply is 1st July.

uk.com e at www.wellaeducation

Find out more at www.and

is.com

Tickets are now on sal

6

The Fellowship gets a new President

A

fter two years as President of the Fellowship for British Hairdressing, Karine Jackson handed over the reins to Ken Picton. During Karine’s tenure, she launched the Barber Project and upcoming Digital Project, introduced the Live Lounge interview concept, took the Fellowship on the road with more regional events than ever,

increased membership and introduced a dynamic digital strategy. “It has been an absolute privilege to be President of the Fellowship,” said Karine. “I have loved every minute and am proud of the changes we have made during my tenure. I can’t think of anyone better to hand over to than Ken; I wish him every success and can’t wait to see the Fellowship continue to go from strength to strength.”

For more news on the world of hairdressing, head to concepthairmag.co.uk/news

Concept Hair / 05


Summer 2019 \ Trending

BY TOM TRACEY, DIGITAL EDITOR

Social media is absolutely vital for building your brand, whether you want to go down the self-employed route or work in a salon. In our featured interview this edition, David and Alexis from Pulp Riot talk about how important Instagram has been in their journey. Of course, you can’t actually cut hair through a computer or phone, but social media has so many great benefits for you as a budding hairdresser or barber. 1 It acts as a portfolio for your work, and you can map the progress you make through your hairdressing journey. 2 It gives you the chance to make connections with brands and others in the industry – you never know when this may be handy! 3 It allows you to see the latest trends and make sure you are ahead of the curve, which can only benefit you. We love, love, love receiving images of your work – tons of you have reached out to us and sent in photos, which we love to share on our own social media channels. Make sure you get in touch with us – you never know, your work could feature on our Instagram or even in the magazine! Find us on social media @ConceptHairMag

authentic beauty concept Starting its journey two-and-a-half years ago, Authentic Beauty Concept was inspired by hairdressers and artisans to be a simple and honest brand, who make you feel good to be you. We were invited to Berlin to see what it’s all about… Greeted with coffee, we entered the Authentic Beauty Concept haven to an Instagrammable world of pastel balloons, olive trees and comfy cushions to relax on while we awaited the launch. Authentic Beauty Concept has been created in response to four vital things in today’s busy world – pure formulas, a no-filter attitude, authentic hair and mindful experience. The launch day took us through how these work within Authentic Beauty Concept, and we also got to try them out for ourselves. All the products smell heavenly and we were shown the raw ingredients, as well as being able to smell them as perfumes and candles. But ‘pure formulas’ is not only to do with what is inside the products. It’s also about what’s left out. The whole range is vegan, free from silicones, sulphates and parabens as well as having no artificial colours.

#EditorFilter

digital column

Trending


Summer 2019 / Trending

We want to be clued in to what we put on and into our bodies, and Authentic Beauty Concept is really reflecting the trend of simplistic, clean beauty as the new luxury. Next, we were introduced to brand ambassadors Hester Wernert-Rijn and Linda Shalabi, who showed us authentic looks that they had created. Using the right products for the hair’s natural texture to create simple, wearable styles is what Authentic Beauty Concept is all about - celebrating a client’s natural beauty with products that make them feel amazing, not using filters to completely change appearances. We’re always on the move, we’re always on our phones, we never stop to take time for ourselves. But Authentic Beauty Concept believe that ‘me-time’ should come as part of the salon experience. It’s not always easy – the sound of blow dryers, chatting and the general salon buzz take our clients away from being able to have that time for themselves. The solution? The mindful experience. Authentic Beauty Concept’s eye mask and noise-cancelling headphones can be used along with treatments to create the best salon experience for your clients. Forget a magazine and a cuppa, Authentic Beauty Concept want to provide a moment to truly shut off and relax. As Authentic Beauty Concept say, people are tired of fake, super-polished looks and complicated products that are full of jargon. They are bringing it back to basics in a beautiful, simplistic way, and we can’t wait for their products to hit the UK shelves this June.

People are tired of fake, “super-polished looks and complicated products that are full of jargon

Dates for your diary

Hair UK 19th / 20th May, Birmingham Colour World 19th / 20th May, London Barber Connect 2nd / 3rd June, Telford Wella Professionals XPOSURE Final 3rd June, London L’Oréal Colour Trophy Final 3rd June, London Indola presents Smart Street Style Collection 10th June, Stockport Not Another Social Media Course 1st July, Dublin / 15th July, Glasgow

fun facts In 2017, Schwarzkopf Professional and Blondstars Salons dyed 296 people’s hair blonde in a day, which is the current Guiness World Record. The world’s longest documented hair belongs to Xie Qiuping in China, which measured 5.627m (18ft 5.54in) in 2004. Hair grows around 1.25cm (0.5in) per month – around 15cm (6in) per year. Concept Hair / 07


COULD YOU BE CONCEPT HAIR’S

APPRENTICE OF THE The Concept Hair Hairdressing & Barbering Apprentice of the Month awardS celebrate students and apprentices who are passionate about the future of the hairdressing & barbering industry, going above and beyond in their apprenticeships to set the standards of the industry. Employers and lecturers can nominate an apprentice by sending us an email or direct message with their nominee’s details.

! R E N N I W : B FE

M A R: W I N N E

ON A JON W ITO AK £100 ORS S SCI S E! L BUND

R!

SAMA WON NTHA TOOLS A HOT EV S T Y L E O LV E R!

I ES O N JON JYASM ALON

SA M A N T H A W H METROPOLIS H

EELER

AIRDRESSING

Congratulations!

Send to: tom.tracey@sng-publishing.co.uk | For more information on how to enter visit:

www.concepthairmag.co.uk #CONCEPTHAIRAPPRENTICEOFTHEMONTH


COMPETITION

CONCEPT HAIR’S BIGGEST GIVEAWAY EVER!

Finish the academic year on a high and win the Ultimate Student Stylist Kit. This amazing Hot Tools Professional kit is worth up to £500 and contains a CurlBar Set, Evolve Styler, Cool Touch Dryer, RollBag and Caddy.

We also have TEN runner-up prizes to give away! five Evolve STYLERS AND five CurlBars

TO ENTER

simply send an email to admin@sng-publishing.co.uk and put ‘Hot Tools Giveaway’ as the email title. We’ll pick the lucky winner and ten runners-up at random and notify them via email. closing date 10th September 2019. the winner will be notifed via e-mail within 24 hours. Head to concepthairmag.co.uk/terms for the full T&Cs.


Summer 2019 \ 20 Things I Love

20 things i love

Having lived and worked in Sydney, London and NYC, Richard Mannah is a renowned international stylist and educator. After being a longstanding central member of the TONI&GUY team, Richard is now Joico International’s guest Artistic Director. We asked about everything from cities to songs and meals to movies. es? Your best tip for apprentic

on? Favourite holiday destinati Mykonos.

Best Instagram account?

‘Heart of God’ by Hillsong. Two of my very good friends wrote it.

Favourite film?

The most impactful is The Passion of the Christ. But watching Avatar in 3D reality. was amazing, like virtual

Who is your ultimate idol?

At 16 I assisted Anthony Mascolo. When you rub shoulders with an artist with such great stage presence, it rubs off on you.

had?

Favourite designer?

Fashion Week. I’ve Kendall Jenner at London ir at Tommy Hilfiger. also done Gigi Hadid’s ha

I love Tom Ford. Also Alexander McQueen, his approach was a step ahead of everyone else, even now his clothes are like, ‘wow’.

what inspires you the most?

Tell us something nobody knows about you

Nature. I’ve been snorkelling and the fish, the colours, the vibrancy, the coral – that has inspired me so much.

?

I had a lisp until I was eight! My brother said, “Say S through the front, not the side s”, and I haven’t had it since!

hair, dead If you could style anyone’s or alive, who would it be?

Tea or coffee?

ic; Edith Piaf. She was electr sive. res exp y ver very animated,

akfast!

I’m a tea guy - English bre

Sydney, New York or London?

Last series you watched?

I love all three, and I’ve lived in all of them. At the moment, I love New York. It’s the people, it’s the place.

Ray Donovan

Favourite celebrity hairc

ut? Kim Kardashian’s bob - tha t simple glass shine with the centre parting is so contemporary.

?

space or the ocean would you rather explore 10 / Concept Hair

Put my feet up and watch TV or read. I love watching the news , it’s really exciting in America right now.

Last song you listened to?

Instagram, obviously!

Space, because I’ve done

Best way to relax?

Communication is the response you get back.

Favourite app?

sh.

I love a good steak and ma

Best tip you’ve ever been given?

One person I find really funny, honest and interesting is Cardi B.

Most famous client you’ve

Favourite meal?

rself, Work hard, believe in you behind and have a joyful attitude everything you do.

the ocean.

www.richardmannah.com


Summer 2019 / Interview

pulp riot

Alexis and David Thurston encourage young stylists to learn creative colour Their top tip for young hairdressers is to learn how to use Instagram to grow your profile

BY HOLLY CARTER AND TOM TRACEY

the interview

Alexis and David Thurston are not only incredible colourists, salon owners and educators, but also the creative powerhouse behind Pulp Riot, the punkiest colour line in the hair world. Insanely popular all over the USA and on Instagram, the time has come for the Thurstons to finally launch the brand in the UK. We had a chat with them all about the Pulp Riot journey, education, and why creative colour is so important for young stylists.

Concept Hair / 11


Summer 2019 \ Interview Concept Hair: Can you tell us a little bit about yourselves? David: We are the founders of the Pulp Riot colour line, created in LA. Pulp Riot is unique because it’s created in a salon, rather than a lab. Having zero degrees of separation between the creators and those using the product makes the product better and us more authentic. CH: Alexis – you changed from doing blondes and touch-ups to being a creative colour queen – how did you do it? Alexis: To do something different, you have to change what you’re doing. By only putting out blonde and brunette on Instagram, that’s what I attracted, so I had to change that. I wanted to do more creative clients, so I set aside one day of my schedule to do hair for free, even though I was an established stylist. It’s a perfect way to try something new and creative. It’s freeing; you don’t have the pressure of ‘this better turn out amazing’. Sometimes when you’re not sure how it’s going to turn out, that’s when the magic happens.

CH: Do you have any apprentices or students? Alexis: We have quite a few assistants – that’s what they’re called in the States. After beauty school, you assist somebody to learn more. Most beauty schools don’t teach modern techniques. David: We help them build a clientele - these days, you build through social media. We make sure they get the exposure that they need to build a following. When we opened our salon in 2010, we’d teach stylists to take their business card into stores, which is now archaic! It’s a waste of time compared to learning how to Instagram. CH: When you were young hairdressers, did you ever think that you would get to this place? Alexis: Absolutely not! Life is like a spiral staircase – choices come, you get over the fear and take that step. You don’t know where it’s going but if you trust in it, it’s amazing what happens. If I didn’t get over the fear of blocking out time to do creative colour, then I wouldn’t have evolved into creating colours and this brand. David: As you get older, each time you think you’re on the last step. When I created my first product line I thought ‘this is it, I’m creating a product line’, and then it’s opening a salon, then it’s creating Pulp Riot. You never know what’s next.

CH: What do you see for the future of creative colour? Alexis: It’s going to become more mainstream and wearable. You’ll see more people in traditional industries with creative colour. In Star Wars, Laura Dern had purple hair and it was beautiful! And you see dolls with colourful hair. It’s a culture shift, it will continually evolve and become more acceptable.

CH: Why should young hairdressers learn to use creative colour? Alexis: It’s not going away. It’s not a trend, it’s a culture shift. David: It gives you variety. It’s like looking at a menu – after 20 years of only ordering chicken, the idea of eating sushi will be alien, so you should learn it while you’re young. It’s also fun! You push yourself more when you’re being artistic.

CH: How have you carried on learning and growing throughout your careers? Alexis: Constantly trying new things and not being afraid to take risks. Fear paralyses lots of people – ‘how do I do creative colour’ or ‘how do I get started’? If you get over that and take a chance, the reward is so creative. David: I surround myself with people smarter than me. It’s crazy how the brand has attracted such amazing people. I have my jaw wide open at what we can accomplish together.

CH: What is your best tip for young hairdressers? Alexis: Get Instagram, start taking pictures and make sure people know how to find you. David: Put your town or city in your bio. If someone sees a picture that they love, they need to know, ‘is it feasible to see this person?’ Learning modern techniques, learning Instagram, that really sets up a stylist for success. Alexis: Also continually getting educated. Go to classes, watch our digital education (tv.pulpriothair.com). It irks me when seasoned stylists say that they’re a master at this or that. Nobody is really a master; we are always, first and foremost, students.

modern techniques and Instagram, “Learning that really sets up a stylist for success ”

12 / Concept Hair


Summer 2019 / Interview

HOT TIP Build your Instagram profile by posting content daily

“YOU ARE THE ARTIST. PULP RIOT IS THE PAINT”

CH: In the future, do you think stylists will be working differently? David: Hair salons aren’t going away, you can’t do hair through a computer. I see more stylists building a following and travelling, paying for it by doing hair because people know them across the world. Alexis: When we went through a recession, people still paid for hair. It’s always going to be relevant because it’s a way to feel good. CH: What are your three top tips for using Instagram to grow your profile? Alexis: One: let people know how to get hold of you. Put your city, your phone number, your salon or school. David: Two: be consistent. Try to come up with content to post daily. Alexis: Three: connect! If someone comments on your page, write back, or comment on their page. It just continually builds.

Creative colour isn't a “ trend, it’s a culture shift”

Read the extended interviews on concepthairmag.co.uk Concept Hair / 13


Summer 2019 \ A Day in the Life of…

Kevin Luchmun is a world-renowned, multi-award-winning barber, men’s stylist and photographer. He has worked with celebrity clientele and his collections can be found on fashion catwalks worldwide and across the pages of leading magazines.

A Day in the Life of Kevin “Luchmun is basically crazy, that’s it! But I love it! ”

A Day in the Life of… a hair photographer 14 / Concept Hair


Summer 2019 / A Day in the Life of…

as just picking up a camera “It’s not as simple and shooting ”

How did you get into photography from barbering?

I started cutting hair when I was at college, just to make money. I always had a shaven head so I had the tools. One of my friends who was a barber suggested I get into barbering so I started working there. I then worked for TONI&GUY for about 11 years. At TONI&GUY, I started getting involved with campaigns and collections. I became International Art Director and then started working with the photographers around London. They were amazing photographers but they would never capture my work how I wanted. So I thought to myself ‘how hard can it be?’ And it was hard. I had to retrain. It’s not as simple as just picking up a camera and shooting. And that’s really where the journey started. If you want something done, do it yourself! So that’s it in a nutshell!

Don’t be “ afraid to push boundaries ”

HOT TIP When prepping for a shoot, always get an assistant so you have an extra pair of hands

So, what does a typical shoot day look like for you? A lot of people think that it’s just a one day shoot. But it’s not, there’s a lot of different elements that are taken into consideration. A client will generally contact me and say that they want to do a photoshoot. And then it will be a case of ‘what is your concept for this shoot? Do you want me to do one photo or a collection of photos?’ Is it going to be in the studio, is it going to be on location; there’s a lot of different factors to consider. What I normally do is ask the client to send me a mood board of photography and images, one on the styling and the clothes, and a mood board on the makeup. It’s the same as doing a consultation for a client who wants a haircut, It’s about getting inside their head to really understand how they want their hair to be.

What can hairdressers do to make your job better and easier?

Make sure that you’ve got it exactly how you want it to look on camera. Also, for a collection of shots, always get an assistant so you have an extra pair of hands. When I’m shooting, the person whose shoot it is needs to be next to the computer so you can see what is happening, so you can then tweak the hair how you want it to be. Finally, I’d say don’t be afraid to push boundaries! Don’t think like you’re styling a client, you’re actually trying to show off your work so just try to push it as much as you can.

To find out more about Kevin’s work, check out his website: www.kevinluchmun.com Concept Hair / 15


Summer 2019 \ Fashion Hairdressing

Fashioning a Future with Hair

Concept Hair: What is fashion hair and why should student hairdressers pay attention to it?

Andy: Simply put, fashion hair is to move away from the commercial. To push the finish to an edge, but still allow it to be wearable and desired.

“EVERYTHING WE DO IS INFLUENCED BY FASHION”

CH: What skills do you need to make it as a session stylist? Andy: You need to know the rules but then be able to break them. Paddy: Attitude is the biggest thing. You need to be willing to learn and commit to what you’re doing, whether you are leading or assisting. 16 / Concept Hair

Paddy: Everything we do is influenced by fashion, particularly Street Style. We collect inspiration from the runway and the street, and shape it into wearable, versatile looks. Andy: With our new Smart Street Style Collection, we are showing more session styling techniques and leaving a more fashionable finish to the hair. CH: What trends are expected for 2019/20?

Andy Smith

Paddy: Fashion hair has a story; it conveys a message, builds a character. It can be exaggerated for the catwalk but the essence of the creation is what’s important. As a student you need to pay attention to fashion – it’s where the trends are shaped and displayed. It’s essential to be well read so you can put this direction into your work.

Paddy and Andy tell apprentice hairdressers to get to know the fashion world to improve their craft

CH: How does Indola interact with fashion?

Paddy McDougall

With the fashion industry worth over £32 billion, we wanted to dissolve the myth that fashion hair is just for catwalks. We caught up with Indola Ambassadors Paddy McDougall and Andy Smith on what it means to work in fashion hair.

Indola is a key brand when it comes to fashion hair

Head to concepthairmag.co.uk in May to win tickets and Indola prizes!

Andy: A mixture of textures and volumes on all hair lengths to create cool, lived-in shapes. Paddy: Check out Indola’s Smart Street Style campaign to find out! But it’s about wider movements in hair and fashion rather than narrower trends – pastels, shorter styles and cool girl hair are going nowhere!

HOT TIP the best way to stay on trend in your work is to stay clued up on fashion

Andy and Paddy will be presenting the Smart Street Style Collection at Alan Howard in Stockport on 10th June 2019. For tickets and further information visit: www.alanhoward.co.uk/c/150126/ indola-presents-smart-street-style-with


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— 14 OnDemand shades — 3 times faster OnTime processing — Express OnColor services: - Xpress root touch-up service - Xpress short crops - Xpress partial colour designs

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#Simply Smarter


Salon Cymru

competition 2019

Every year, Salon Cymru attracts highly skilled hairdressing and barbering apprentices from all over Wales. It brings together up to 160 competitors, all work-based learners from private learning providers and colleges. Apprentices compete live throughout the day and winners are announced at the end of the day. Launched in 2000 by ISA Training, and organised by Dawn Elliott, it is the largest, most renowned hairdressing competition in Wales. This year the competition was held in Cardiff University’s Y Plas venue. The head judges included multi-award winners: Steven Smart, Nick Williams and Josh Goldsworthy. The Fellowship for British Hairdressing gave away ClubStar memberships to the winner of each category. Concept Hair were delighted to be sponsoring the Avant Garde competition finale! Past winners have seen their careers take off in many different ways, from competing in the Paris Internationals as part of the Junior British Hairdressing Squad to appearing on primetime TV!

It’s made me more “ confident in the salon ” 18 / Concept Hair


Summer 2019 / Salon Cymru

an amazing “It’scompetition to be part of ”

overall competition winner

ellie branch Level 2 Hairdressing Student

Categories won: Avant Garde, Styling Festival Hair and Overall Winner

Concept Hair: What made you enter the competition? Ellie Branch: My boss! She encouraged me to enter. I didn’t want to do it. I didn’t feel I was good enough. Three weeks before the competition she entered me into Avant Garde so I gave in! CH: Has winning these awards changed anything for you? EB: I’m much more confident now. I’m more motivated, I will push myself now.

EB: I want to finish my Level 2 and Level 3 and maybe barbering. Then I want to open my own salon. CH: What’s the last thing you bought? EB: I bought myself a dress.

Photo by Justin Harris

CH: So, what’s next for you?


Summer 2019 \ Salon Cymru

Awards category winners:

Ella Gray

Marcus FeelEy

Styling Levels 1 & 2 Sponsored by Pro Care: Ellie Branch from Captiva Spa, Caerphilly

Category won: Colouring

Category won: Barbering Level 3

Level 2 Hairdressing at CHAIR Salons, Cardiff

Level 3 Barbering

Hair Up Level 2 Sponsored by Heduc8: Cameron Lewis from Jamie Hill, Swansea Hair Up Level 3 Sponsored by The Andrew Price Group: Molly Davis from Nicky’s Nails Hair and Beauty, Stroud Barbering Level 2 Sponsored by The Warehouse: Declan Williams from Beattie’s Barbers & Co, Brynmawr Barbering Level 3 Sponsored by City & Guilds: Marcus Feeley from Aura, Caerphilly Colouring Sponsored by Wella Professionals: Ella Gray from CHAIR Salons, Cardiff Avant Garde Sponsored by Concept Hair Magazine: Ellie Branch from Captiva Spa, Caerphilly

The winners of the two special awards: Shirley Davis-Fox MBE Rising Star Cameron Lewis from Jamie Hill, Swansea Overall Winner Ellie Branch from Captiva Spa, Caerphilly

20 / Concept Hair

Concept Hair: What made you enter the competition? Ella Gray: I saw the competition last year when I was a Level 1 student and thought it looked like so much fun. Also my boss encouraged me to enter too. I’m so happy that I won! CH: Has winning this award changed anything for you? EG: I think that things are getting back to normal now. My friends are a bit more aware now of what I do. I think they thought I just swept the floor at the salon, which I do also but I do more than that! CH: So, what’s next for you?

Concept Hair: What made you enter the competition? Marcus Feely: I’d entered the competition previously but didn’t win so it was fantastic to win this year. CH: Has winning this award changed anything for you? MF: I’ve won seven or eight competitions now. That’s what got me noticed. It’s opened up a lot of opportunities. In fact, tomorrow I will be celebrating 12 months of a business that I’m a partner in with some friends. It’s been fantastic and we work together as a team to make it work. CH: So, what’s next for you?

EG: I definitely want to stay in the hairdressing industry. I’d love to do hair for TV and film but I know it takes a long time to get there. I want to get my Level 3 and work in the salon for a while to get as much experience as I can first.

MF: I want to go down the education route and do more to help apprentices and inspire them. Part of the reason I entered this competition was to encourage a Level 2 apprentice to get involved. It’s so important to build confidence.

CH: What’s the last thing you bought?

CH: What’s the last thing you bought?

EG: I bought myself a guitar for my birthday.

MF: A suit for the Welsh Hair & Beauty Awards. It’s a black tie event and we’ve been nominated for Best Welsh Salon.


Summer 2019 / Salon Cymru

Declan Williams

Molly Davis

Cameron Lewis

Category won: Barbering Level 2

Category won: Hair Up Level 3

Level 2 Barbering

Level 3 Hairdressing

Categories won: Hair Up Level 2 and Shirley Davis-Fox MBE Rising Star

Concept Hair: What made you enter the competition?

Concept Hair: What made you enter the competition?

Declan Williams: I entered the competition for the experience. I wanted to get a feel for competitions and look forward to it. My assessor and my boss both encouraged me to enter the competition.

Molly Davis: I was sceptical about entering at first but thought about it and wanted to give it a go and push myself out of my comfort zone. I’m so glad that I did!

CH: Has winning this award changed anything for you?

CH: Has winning this award changed anything for you?

DW: I’m more confident now since winning. My clients see the trophy and they have trust in me that I know what I’m doing. It’s made me more confident in the salon for sure.

MD: Yes, definitely. It’s made me more confident in how I am with clients. My boss put an advert in the local paper and the salon has got a lot busier now since I’ve won the award. I have a lot more clients now.

CH: So, what’s next for you?

CH: So, what’s next for you?

DW: I want to finish my course and carry on working. I really enjoy barbering so I just want to keep barbering! I want to take part in more competitions.

MD: I want to keep working hard and finish my course. I’ve also got a few more courses planned for this year. I want to be the best that I can be. I’d like to enter more competitions.

CH: What’s the last thing you bought?

My sister is studying beauty and we were talking about having our own salon one day.

DW: A new clipper head.

CH: What’s the last thing you bought? MD: New brushes and a new hair dryer.

For more information on the competition, go to www.isatraining.co.uk/salon-cymru

Level 2 Hairdressing Concept Hair: What made you enter the competition? Cameron Lewis: I’ve always been interested in hairdressing, especially hair up and styling. I’m always practicing at home. I went in with low expectation as I was doing it to gain experience. I didn’t expect to win it! CH: Has winning this award changed anything for you? CL: Yes, I have an Instagram account and my following just shot up. People are finding me more easily and recognise me. I have more clients now booking in with me. It’s really pushed my confidence. CH: So, what’s next for you? CL: I want to do more competitions. I will complete my Level 2 and my Level 3 courses. Styling is the route that I want to take. I’d love to be involved with London Fashion Week or Milan Fashion Week. CH: What’s the last thing you bought? CL: I used the money that I won from the competition to pay for tickets to Boardmasters Festival.

Concept Hair / 21


22 / Concept Hair

Hairdressing is also a great way to meet really interesting people. In fact, in 1992 a beautiful client walked into the salon and we’ve been married now for 22 years!

• I didn’t want to be a pen pusher • I wanted to do something creative • I loved chatting to people • I had long hair and didn’t want to cut it off!

Concept Hair: Hi Steven, it’s great to meet you! So, why hairdressing? Steven Smart: Originally, I’d planned be a graphic designer. My mum told me to make a list of criteria of what I wanted in a career and it took me to hairdressing. I came up with four points:

Steven Smart is an international multi-award winning hairdresser! He’s been British Hairdressing Champion eight times and won Best International Women’s Commercial Collection at the International Hairdressing Awards. And just last year he scooped Hairdressers Journal's South West Hairdresser of the Year!

steven smart

the interview

doesn’t make you Lewis Hamilton!

can pass your “You driving test but it

CH: Who’s been your biggest inspiration? SS: Gosh, there are so many. I’d never say just one person. I love the very feminine, strong looks of the ‘40s and ‘50s and designers like Christian Dior, John Galliano and Alexander McQueen. You learn something different from each person. Otherwise you can become blinkered. It’s important to be your own creator. Don’t think my way is the right way for you. This is how I do it, so you can learn from someone but then make it your own. It’s exciting!

Summer 2019 \ Interview


CH: What advice would you give to someone just starting out? SS: I’d say concentrate on the fundamentals and get those right first. Don’t try and run before you can walk. I can’t tell you how much more confident you will be. You don’t have the grounding to fall back on otherwise. You can pass your driving test but it doesn’t make you Lewis Hamilton!

CH: So how did it all begin? SS: Well, I started off working for an academy for Two years. They’d take on ten apprentices each year and keep one, so at the end of the year they would get rid of nine! It was disheartening for the apprentices and was cheap labour, governmentfunded. I could have been put off when I was just starting out. The days were long and your feet would be killing you. Some dropped out, but I always stuck to it and went the extra mile.

I do it, so you can learn from someone but then make it your own

Don’t think my way is the “ right way for you. This is how

Concentrate on the fundamentals and get those right first

HOT TIP

Summer 2019 / Interview

Concept Hair / 23


Summer 2019 \ Salons

Griffins Salon

Family-run salon Griffins has been operating in the village of Barnt Green for 30 years. They’ve built their reputation in the community by providing the highest quality hairdressing as well as education to local stylists and colleges. Offering competitive training prices as well as high-end services, the salon team works tirelessly to suit all budgets and accommodate everyone, including numerous celebrities, to the same high standards.

Barnt Green (Worcestershire)

superstar Zoology

A hub of style and expertise, Zoology has defined itself as the go-to salon in the capital. With a bunch of accolades under its belt and a dynamic and committed team, it has earned itself a reputation that keeps regulars and new clients rolling in. The salon is always buzzing with energy, and with Colour Lab right next to the main Zoology salon on Wanstead high street, it’s there to wow the industry. The Zoology team are true colour experts, excelling in the field of cutting-edge colour techniques and the latest colour trends.

london

This environmentally-conscious salon uses recycled and reconstituted materials and furniture to reduce its carbon footprint. The result is an industrial, stripped-back feel, while still airy, well-lit and welcoming. The salon uses biodegradable towels, LED energy-efficient lighting, recycled stationery with carbon-positive printing, plus carbon-neutral phone calls and broadband. The salon also uses infrared heaters which are designed to consume 60% less energy and produce no CO2. Anne and her family made the reception desk, styling stations, retail display, colour bar, cupboards‌ you name it, they designed and built it! Bicester (Oxfordshire)

24 / Concept Hair

Anne Veck


Summer 2019 / Salons The Aesthetics Flagship Salon is set in the beautiful market town of Henley-in-Arden. Painstakingly restored, this Grade II listed building has been reimagined to retain all that was and introduce it to all that can be. Wabi-Sabi was the essence of this salon and a mix of old and new runs throughout, creating a wonderfully inviting and warm space. With two open fires, one courtyard garden, an abundance of natural light and space to work, the salon is home to an award-winning team known for precision cutting and creative colour bespoke to each individual.

Aesthetics

Henley-in-Arden (Warwickshire)

salons ty

yaxley Hair and Beau

Yaxley Hair and Beauty has been open for nearly ten years, and was started by 21-year-old Phillippa Lee. It has grown to become a multi-award-winning, friendly and professional salon. Phillippa is part of The Fellowship for British Hairdressing’s Project X team and won Stylist of the Year at the English Hair and Beauty Awards 2018. The salon has won Hair Salon of the Year from 2013 to 2016. Yaxley offers a range of services, from hair colour using organic range I.C.O.N, Easilocks extensions, massage, CND Shellac, barbering, perms, facials, spray tans and more. The salon was designed to be homely with a bit of an edge witham (essex) through use of scaffolding and pallets.

Essensuals, Billericay, was opened in 2003 by award winning Salon Director Jim Shaw and his sister Maria Boylan. The salon has gone from strength to strength and is now one of the most successful, multi-award-winning salons within the group. Jim added a men’s section, EssensualsMEN, to allow men to feel more comfortable discussing their hair and skin. Jim was the first hairdresser to bring men’s hairdressing and barbering together and his multi-award-winning skills in men’s hairdressing are second to none. Jim’s expertise has also gained him an impressive list of celebrity clients who regularly visit Essensuals salon in Billericay.

Essensuals

Billericay (essex)

Want to show off your Superstar Salon? Get in touch by emailing editor@sng-publishing.co.uk

Concept Hair / 25


the Keyhole

Through

Summer 2019 \ Salons

DONCASTER COLLEGE 26 / Concept Hair

Embrace change “and work really hard at perfecting those basic skills


We were really blown away by the fantastic facilities when visiting Doncaster College’s salon last month. Doncaster is renowned for its high quality training centre; ideal for anyone wanting to train and learn about hairdressing. In fact, the facilities are so impressive that for three years they have hosted the Wella XPOSURE competition for the Northern heat. The spacious salon is situated downstairs with 15 work stations, and upstairs are the training rooms. The salon is open to the public and offers all the services that a commercial salon would offer. The training rooms are designed to ensure their students and apprentices benefit from the very best training possible.

They are part of the Lee Stafford Academy, so all the training and methodology on how to cut and colour comes directly from the training of Lee Stafford himself. Lee visits the college regularly and gives masterclasses to train the staff and also runs training for the students. There are three levels of hairdressing qualifications for both full-time students and apprentices. They all work together at the same time, complementing each other’s skills. So Level 1 will be shampooing, Level 2 will be carrying out treatments and Level 3 will be involved in cutting and more advanced hair skills. Doncaster currently train 50 hairdressing apprentices and are set to continue growing.

For more information about the courses at Doncaster College, please visit www.don.ac.uk Concept Hair / 27


Summer 2019 \ How To

how to create

the Hot Tools Beach Vibe!

Summer’s almost here! Bring the beach vibes to your client’s look with this softly tousled style. This look can be worn from day to night with minimum maintenance while on the go. Ideal for busy fashionistas.

PREP Cleanse and condition the hair to begin with and then, a.) apply your chosen product and b.) thoroughly dry the hair, using a large round bristle brush. Then repeat a.) and b.)

STEP 1 First, create a centre parting. Then, create an internal oval throughout the top of the head. To do this, take a radial section around the circumference of the skull, approx. 1” from the hairline.

28 / Concept Hair

STEP 2 Wind away from the face in a downward, vertical and slightly diagonal section. Flat-wrap the hair, approx. 3” from the root, before winding through the mid-lengths and ends, leaving 3” from the end. For medium to fine hair, set the CurlBar timer to 5 seconds and slide it downwards towards your fingers, keeping tension in the hair. Ensure the CurlBar reaches the ends, forming a soft bend.

STEPS 3 & 4 Continue working through the head in a clockwise or anti-clockwise manner (depending on which side you started from) to the centre. Once completed, repeat the process on the top section.


Summer 2019 / How To

HOT TIPS Refrain from using any oil-based products, as this will make the hair limp. Finish using fingers or a wide-toothed comb.
If you require a looser look, use a hairdryer on the roots.

Choose the “ CurlBar to suit the hair length, weight and density. You can choose between the 25mm, 32mm and 38mm CurlBar

finished LOOK

Use a sea-salt spray or a product that will make the hair feel gritty. Using dry shampoo at the roots will also give volume.

#HotLooks

FINISH

Concept Hair / 29


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No matter who “walks in the door with whatever hair texture, we will be able to do it

MEET THE AFRO HAIR QUEEN

Michelle Thompson has worked at Francesco Group since the age of 19 and built up an Afro-Caribbean clientele from scratch. She worked her way up to become the Group’s Creative Director and was crowned as Afro Hairdresser of the Year in 2018. We spoke to Michelle to find out more about Afro hair.

32 / Concept Hair


Summer 2019 / Afro Hair Concept Hair: Hi Michelle, it’s great to meet you and congratulations on your recent award! You’ve built a remarkable career. How did it all begin? Michelle Thompson: I started with two weeks’ work experience. The first week was doing admin, printing, filing - there were no windows in the room or anything. I hated it! The second week was in an actual salon in Wolverhampton, which I absolutely loved. From there I was offered a Saturday job, which I did up until the age of 16 when I left school. I went straight in and became a hairdresser. I worked at that salon until I was 19 or 20. I went to Walsall College and did my Level 3 hairdressing. I got introduced to the Francesco Group, which was one of the training providers for the college. From there, I came into the Group. CH: How did you get into Afro hair? MT: I started off at our flagship academy in Stafford as a stylist. The Group didn’t do any Afro hair. I started to build up an Afro-Caribbean clientele at the salon. Because I was the only specialist within the Group, they decided they wanted to introduce all hair textures to the rest of the Group. We have 30-odd salons and Francesco Dellicompagni, the Chairman, wanted everyone to have a shared vision. No matter who walks in the door with whatever hair texture, we will be able to do it. As a Group, we thought it’d be a great idea for other people to come to us for training in Afro hair.

CH: You’re involved in education and teaching – can you describe your perfect learner? MT: They’d be like a sponge who would absolutely absorb everything, passionate about what they do and want to learn in life. CH: What do you see as the top Afro hair trends to look out for this year? MT: The last few years have been working with natural textures. It’s been a lot more curls and wanting to embrace curls, which is great. It’s liberating - for years we have been straightening and going against what our hair physically wants. You’ll see a lot more natural curls, all different lengths. TWA (Teeny Weeny Afro) looks absolutely amazing on the right face shape. A few years back, colour was a no-go with Afro hair. Working with natural textures allows us to use more colour. A lot more women want colours and curls at the same time. CH: Which celebrity’s hair do you appreciate the most, and why? MT: Meghan Markle naturally has textured hair. I’d love to see her embrace her natural curls – where the trends are going! CH: Who has been your main inspiration throughout your life and career? MT: It was always Errol Douglas when I started hairdressing. It was also Desmond Murray. Desmond started at the salon I started out at and I saw him progress. I thought, ‘Well I can do that as well.’

CH: What are your top five tips for working with Afro hair? MT: 1 Understand hair texture and type

2 Choose the correct product for the hair texture you are working with

3 Knowledge is power – get as much knowledge as you can 4 Don’t be afraid, go for it, embrace it

5 If at first you don’t succeed, try again

Quickfire Questions: Go-to product brand? KeraCare. Favourite beauty product? Laura Mercia Translucent Setting Powder. Last film you saw? A Star is Born. Most remarkable client? One of my best friends who died of breast cancer. I used to use her as a model all the time, whether it was a show or a shoot, she’d always be there and she was just amazing. If you weren’t a hairdresser, what would you be? A photographer (in hair). High street or online shopping? Online shopping all the way, I don’t have time to go out shopping! Early bird or night owl? Early bird.

“You’ll see a lot more natural curls in Afro hair this year”

Concept Hair / 33


Summer 2019 \ How To

how to create

90s muse look Robert Eaton is a multi-award-winning stylist and Creative Director at Russell Eaton in Leeds and Barnsley. Here, he shares how he created one of the looks from his 90s-inspired ‘90s Muse’ collection…

HAIR ANALYSIS In-depth hair analysis is really important to choose the correct shades and process for creating the perfect look, both technically and visually.

Natural base: 5 Natural hair pigmentation: Golden/warm distribution of natural pigment. Porosity and condition: Porous and sensitised hair due to colour. The natural Afro/textured hair itself is dry.

Regrowth: One centimetre of natural hair re-growing at the roots.

Mid lengths and ends: The roots have been coloured using a level 4 with the ends lightening due to bleaching products and lighter colours. This has then been covered with a red and copper direct dye colour.

STEP 1

1 2 3

To begin, I needed to cleanse away the existing colour. A gentle cleansing technique was applied at the different areas of colour build up to remove the unwanted depth and tone. I did this whilst being mindful of the condition of the hair and hair integrity at all times. 34 / Concept Hair

STEP 2

Next, I focused on balancing the roots with the lighter ends. I worked with a permanent colour of 8/1 and 7/1 + 6% at the roots.

STEP 3

This was followed by working with 8/1 + 6% throughout the mid bands.


Summer 2019 / How To

4 5 6

Finally, I balanced the whole colour with 8/1 + 4% through the ends for the final ten minutes. This created a more even base and neutralised some more of the unwanted red and copper tones.

STEP 5

I worked with a lightening/bleach product mixed with 6% as a third colour correction stage to lift and brighten some areas, and give me the base for my stonewashed, more lived-in colour result. Next, the hair was cleansed and conditioned, removing all residue of the pre-lightener, creating a perfect base for the tonal work.

STEP 6

I then applied direct dye shades of pink, magenta and purple to give me an intense blend of tone and a high impact finish. The colours created a brighter finish on the lighter areas of hair and a softer, more subdued, darker tone elsewhere.

finished LOOK

STEP 4

Concept Hair / 35


Summer 2019 / Scissors

The one question we are asked more than any other is, ‘what size scissor should I use?’ The answer to this question is more involved, and should be considered carefully. Never choose a scissor length because your colleague has told you that’s the size they use! Everyone has a different hand shape, so scissor size should be a personal choice.

Scissor Length Scissor length is measured from the tip of the blade to the root of the finger rest, and is always shown in inches. There are many sizes to choose from ranging from 4.5” to 8”. Historically, scissors have been made in whole and half measurements, although many manufacturers are now making offset scissors in quarter measurements, i.e 5.25”.

Choosing a Scissor Length With scissors coming in so many sizes, they all offer something different. As a general rule, shorter sizes (4.5” to 5.5”) are better for cutting hair in your hand, and precision work. Longer sizes (6”to 8”) are perfect for scissor over comb work, allowing you to cut a straighter line with fewer closures of the tips. Remember to try scissors before

Scissor experts G E Betterton say it is important to choose the right scissor length for you The best scissors for apprentices are from 5” to 6”, to cut accurately in a straight line

Remember to “ try scissors before

you buy them to make sure they are comfortable in your hand. In the early stages of your training, when you only have one set of scissors in your kit, cutting accurately in a straight line is the basic need of the blunt cut, so most hairdressers will choose scissors from 5” to 6”. Later in your career you can choose scissors that will suit your style of cutting, and the specific techniques you are using.

you buy them to make sure they are comfortable in your hand

Also remember that blade length can vary, even on scissors that are the same length.

Scissor length

Blade length

36 / Concept Hair

Hair by Ceri Cushen at Metropolis Hairdressing

know your length

HOT TIP Never choose a scissor length because someone else has told you that’s the size they use!

Scissor length

Blade length

gebetterton.co.uk


Gain professional experience with Wella Professionals

CALLING ALL HAIRDRESSING STUDENTS! Why not learn new techniques and grow your cutting and colouring skills this summer ready to wow your lecturer or back in the salon?

Image credit: Robert Eaton

You could pick and choose one of the courses - just £30 exc VAT per day! WELLA SUMMER SCHOOL COLOUR You’ll learn:

WELLA SUMMER SCHOOL CUTTING You’ll learn:

• Day one: In-depth colour choice and consultation

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• Day three: Quick balayage and colour techniques

• Day three: Classic bob above shoulder with graduation

• Day four: Creative colour mixing

• Day four: Short layered cutting and finishing

• Four days of hands-on workshops led by the Wella Education Team

• Inspirational hands-on workshops led by the Wella Education Team

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Summer 2019 \ How To

how to create

BRIDAL LOOK tools

This cascading curls stepby-step from Pivot Point is perfect for a contemporary, romatic bridal look.

1

Use the double mousse technique for texture and grip. Apply mousse and blow-dry the hair off the face, creating smooth lengths. Repeat.

4

With the thread clipped out of the way, divide the section in half, creating a right and left strand. Release a slight diagonal forward parting on the right side and join with the right strand. Repeat on the left. Note: Both sides will travel together in a figure of eight pattern. 38 / Concept Hair

2

Curl the hair using a medium barrel curling iron and bricklayer pattern. Set the first few rows on base and the remaining half off base, secure with a clip. Allow the hair to cool, before softening the lengths with a cushion brush. 5

Take the thread and bring it around the outside and under the right strand, up through the center, then over and around the left strand and up through the center.

mousse, hair dryer, medium barrel curling iron, cushion brush, thread, pins and grips

3

Attach thread to the square section, form a loop in the middle of the thread, bring the loop under the section, then bring the ends of the thread through the loop and tighten. Take one side of the thread, wrap it around the strand and tie the two sides securely together. 6

Continue to work through the center towards the nape, keeping the thread tight and incorporating new partings from each side.


Summer 2019 / How To

7

When you reach the lower crown, begin to work along a slight diagonal toward the left. Then use the figure of eight technique off-scalp to slightly above the shoulders, separate the thread and tie to secure.

10

Starting at the top right side, use grips and a weaving pinning technique to lift the lengths and create an S pattern, working down to the nape. Use product, detail and define the pattern as you work. Repeat on the left side.

8

9

Start on the right side nape, gently pull the outside length for a looser effect, working up the head and holding the center to avoid disturbing its position. Repeat on the left side.

Gently pull the strands that are held within the figure of eight. Start at the nape and create a loop-like texture. Work on both sides, making the loops large enough to cover the thread, and creating a balanced shape and texture. Work from the nape down using the same technique.

11

Use grips to secure and pull the shape into the nape. Then detail, arrange lengths and conceal the thread.

12

Twist the fringe section towards the left and loosely release strands to create texture. Position these lengths within the shape and secure with grips. Cut the thread and arrange the hair to sit over the shoulder. To see the full video for this step-by-step, head to www.concepthairmag.co.uk/how-tos

finished LOOK Courtesy of Pivot Point International, Inc. Š


Summer 2019 \ Bridal

top tips:

bridal by roRy mason

Rory Mason is creative director at Ashley Gamble and a member of the Fellowship’s Project X team. Here Rory shares his top tips for bridal hair.

TIP 1 Ask your client to wash their hair the night before their wedding, and leave it to dry naturally. Hair is much easier to handle the next day, and won’t be as soft or flyaway.

TIP 2 Always prep the hair with a spray of dry shampoo at the root, then use a hairdryer to manipulate the root in the opposite direction of its growth pattern. This will keep body in for longer and make backcombing easier.

TIP 4 The shake test! Make sure your pins are secure, by getting the client to shake their head vigorously – this will show any areas of your hairstyle that aren’t secure. It’s better to fix it now and have a hairstyle that lasts all day and night than one that falls out with a gust of wind.

TIP 3 Use heated rollers or a curling tong to pin curl all of the hair, then leave to set for at least ten minutes. If the hair is still warm, the curls and shape will fall out, leaving your hair up looking limp.

For more ideas head to concepthairmag.co.uk

40 / Concept Hair

TIP 5 Finally, don’t use too much hairspray until the very end when you and your client are completely happy with the finished look; it’s much harder to fix or switch things around when the hair is sticky and set in place.


We’re a small but “important charity

Check out the charity’s new campaign #InTheirWords

and thankful for everyone’s support in creating such a successful night

The ball raised over £5,000 on the night through pledges and an interactive Heads & Tails game!

The Hairdressers’

Charity Fundraising Ball

Another great year was had by The Hairdressers’ Charity Fundraising Ball, with over 200 guests attending - from hairdressers, sponsors, brands, trade editors, industry bodies and influencers from all across the country. Awards were also presented on the evening. The new Jeffery Bonn Fundraising Award, in recognition of long-standing charity treasurer and supporter Jeffery who passed away in 2018, was presented to Sharon Malcolm for her unwavering support and fundraising for the charity for many, many years. The President’s Award was presented to Karine Jackson for her dedication and support in championing the charity.

The glamorous evening held at the Grange St Paul’s Hotel involved networking, a catwalk hair show, awards, plus fundraising. It was hosted by Co-Presidents Samantha Grocutt from Essence PR and Philip Sharp from ASP. Launched on the night was the new charity campaign #InTheirWords; a very powerful social media campaign that certainly made an impact on the night.

Guests were also serenaded by renowned industry crooner, David Jelley.

A stunning catwalk hair show with the theme ‘Love and Strength’ was choreographed on the night. Guest artists included: Nicky Clarke London for Wella Professionals Brooks & Brooks L’Oreal Professional Tracey Devine-Smith ASP Samantha Grocutt and Philip Sharp

Andrew Smith Salons Wonderful Life Simon Tuckwell Hair The Fellowship for British Hairdressing Nicola Smyth Award-Winning Hair for Goldwell, Hairdotcom, and Anne Veck Salon 42 / Concept Hair

“The night was a great success and the buzz in the room was exactly what we needed to keep the charity front of mind” explains Philip Sharp. “A lot goes into organising these events but it’s worth it. There was a great balance of sharing our key messages, fundraising, and networking.”

“We really want this night to become a key fixture in the hairdressing calendar and grow the numbers who attend the night, so not only do we raise funds but more people know why we exist and can come to the charity when they require help. We’re a small but important charity and thankful for everyone’s support in creating such a successful night,” concludes Samantha Grocutt. For more information about the charity go to: www.thehairdresserscharity.org


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Summer 2019 \ Interview

Angelo Seminara is a passionate women’s stylist who takes inspiration from nature and his childhood in Italy His philosophy is to trust his instincts and never compromise He advises apprentices to keep moving forward and practising

HOT TIP Find a mentor to support you through your studies

the interview

44 / Concept Hair

Gravity Collection

“Every now and then, someone comes along who changes the agenda”, said Trevor Sorbie MBE about his previous mentee, Angelo Seminara. Four times HJ's British Hairdresser of the Year and recently crowned International Hairdresser of the Year 2019, we are so lucky to have caught up with one of the most captivating and renowned stylists in the world.

MUSE Collection

Angelo seminara


Summer 2019 / Interview Concept Hair: It’s such a pleasure to talk to you! Can you give our readers an introduction to what you do? Angelo Seminara: I am a very passionate ladies' hairdresser with an enormous curiosity that follows me everywhere I go, 365 days a year, 12 – sometimes 18 – hours a day. I’ve dedicated my life to creating new elements and ways of complementing feminine beauty. CH: Tell us about your childhood in Italy; how has it formed you? AS: I was born in Calabria, south Italy. My family life was typically Italian – noisy, laughing, loving, my mum making amazing fresh pasta, time outdoors and plenty of socialising. Calabria is warm with beautiful coasts and a wild, mysterious landscape. There’s pure, unpolluted scenery with rolling green fields, blue lakes and waterfalls. Looking back, I think this is what formed my awe of Mother Nature, who has become my trusted source of inspiration. CH: Who was your first ever client? AS: My first client was a visuallyimpaired man. He had totally white hair, lived in a humble, rural home and looked like an artist. When I asked how he would like his hair, he replied: “Do what you like, just make it tidy”. So I did my first mohawk, which he said felt fresh and great. However, I don’t think his son was too impressed! CH: Who is the most influential person in your life and career and why? AS: There are a few. Firstly, my uncle Peppe Ferrarini; botanist, plant doctor, farmer and politician. From childhood, Peppe taught me about trees, flora, fauna and the landscape, and taught me to respect all animals. Losing him

was enormously difficult. There’s also Cesare Racioppa, who spoke seven languages and was an occasional interpreter for the Pope. Then Domenico Annetta, an academic who taught children with Down’s syndrome. All three taught me something new every day. CH: What is your philosophy? AS: When I worked in London and met my great master – Trevor Sorbie MBE – I asked him, “What is your philosophy in hairdressing?” His answer: “It’s very simple, just make it look beautiful.” Trevor’s words confirmed what I was already doing. To trust my instincts, to never, ever compromise and to seek perfection. CH: If you had to choose one of your collections to define you, which would it be? AS: It has to be the ‘Gravity Collection.’ To me, its beauty is beyond compare.

If things don’t go “right, you go left – simple as that ”

CH: You were announced as International Hairdresser of the Year in February, congratulations! How does it feel? AS: Thank you, I have been given a few awards over the years. But strip away all the accolades and praise and, at heart, I really am a pretty humble hairdresser. Being announced International Hairdresser of the Year made me feel very proud. It’s incredibly rewarding to get such an honour. It makes all those long, hard days of perfecting my work richly satisfying.

CH: What are the challenges facing apprentices and how should they deal with them? AS: Disciplined hard work, loving what you do, being part of a team… these are just some of the challenges facing trainees. It’s easy to feel disappointed in yourself when things go wrong. It’s so important to move on from every mistake, keep practising until you get it right. Always look forward, never back. Dedicate to learning from the best in the business, master all the skills and never compromise. CH: What would you do if you were an apprentice now? AS: It would be amazing to be an apprentice now, there’s massive demand for young, talented people. I wish it had been that way in my day; it was much more competitive then. So, my advice would be: if things don’t go right, you go left – simple as that. I would find the next brand willing to take me on. I’ve always believed in myself and what I can bring to the table. If I couldn’t be at the main table, I’d be patient, improve my skills and try again. CH: What are your three top tips for apprentices? AS: Find your mentor, act like a sponge and have loads of fun while you’re at it. And practise, practise, practise – then practise some more! CH: Can you describe your perfect day? AS: Ten clients saying: “Do whatever you want with my hair”, haha! But in reality I’d love to work in New York’s Metropolitan Museum creating a live installation.

Quickfire Questions: Best fashion week? Paris, without a doubt.

Cutting or colouring? Colouring.

Motto? Live and let live.

Precision or speed? Precision.

Favourite city? London.

Most famous client? The Beatles’ family. Concept Hair / 45


Summer 2019 \ Business Skills

remember “youAlways have to take the

take

control

rough with the smooth, and embracing your mistakes will make you the person you are

Jade Harrison is the Key Account Educator for Wella Professionals in Scotland. Here, she gives advice on advancing your career through embracing change and being proactive.

Starting out

Joining Wella

My mum persuaded me to earn some pocket money, so at 15 I started a weekend job at a salon called Paterson SA. I loved it! On a Thursday, I used to watch the staff train after school. Sometimes I modelled for them, then one day I asked if I could bring my own model. You have to put yourself out there if you want to get ahead.

After some freelancing I moved to RUSH, before applying for an educator role with Wella. I have always had a passion for sharing my knowledge so becoming an educator was natural. Being a Wella Educator took me all over the country and I learnt a huge amount, travelling to salons and colleges, training them on our products. Remember, not every career move has to be forever – it’s all a journey. I have always had a five-year career plan. It’s important to set goals and work towards them, but don’t forget your short-term plans along the way.

My next move took me to Ireland, where I joined the Peter Mark group. It was amazing and I am privileged to have been part of it. My advice is to embrace change and work really hard at perfecting those basic skills.

Embrace change and work really “ hard at perfecting those basic skills ”

Jade’s top tips Don’t be afraid of change! Once you have the skills, don’t be afraid to take them wherever you want to go. Don’t rely on your trainer to give you everything, be proactive. If there is something you want to learn, make it happen. Always remember, you have to take the rough with the smooth, and embracing your mistakes will make you the person you are.

HOT TIP Having a five-year career plan is a great way to keep focused on your goals 46 / Concept Hair


For information on how to become a Wella educator please email: wellaevents@cotyinc.com


Summer 2019 \ Business Skills

A Head for Business skills HOT TIP

Find a salon that believes in education

Tracy Hayes, Global Head of Technical Training at Fudge Professional, shares her business skills with Concept Hair.

course understanding the suitability of colour choice for your client. “I’ve worked in top London salons, and also taught for many years for Sassoon, which included travelling extensively. Seven years ago, I was approached by PZ Cussons Beauty, who had recently acquired Fudge Professional. I was at a stage in my career where looking after a colour line really excited me, and Fudge offered me the opportunity to work on their colour ranges as part of a very small team. “Even in my early days as an assistant, you would always find me in the colour department. I became quickly fascinated with the science and colour combinations and seeing how the most dramatic colour changes would completely transform the look of the person sitting in the chair. I believe both the formulation and technical side of colour go hand-in-hand. Education is so key when it comes to technicality; it helps you understand about colour placement within a haircut, and of 48 / Concept Hair

“My more recent years working on the Paintbox and Headpaint portfolios for Fudge Professional has involved formulating brand new shades. This often involves working alongside factory suppliers relentlessly until we get the specific colour our formulation set out to achieve. I’ve recently completed a very busy year of extensive testing

to bring out the newly relaunched Headpaint range, which I’m immensely proud of. Being a part of the process of formulating colours and building the Fudge Professional colour portfolio has been a great challenge and one that I’ve enjoyed so much. “My advice to a young stylist who feels engaged by colour and knows it’s something they’d like to specialise in, would be to approach a salon that honestly believes in education, as this will provide the opportunity to continually grow and push your learning boundaries. Always be a team player, as this way you can bring your creativity to the table, whilst listening to your peers and learning from their advice. Finally, be prepared to work hard and have a good listening ear – understanding your clients’ needs and expectations will always be of paramount importance.”

“Always be a team player”


Winter 2019 / App-rentice

ice t n e r p ap with…

wella

The Wella Professionals Digital Shade Chart is a comprehensive education tool which includes all you need to master the new Koleston Perfect Me+

It offers • A digital shade chart that enables you browse the shade families and watch a realistic on-head result under different light conditions. Users can filter relevant shades by selecting the natural base hair colour. • Product Knowledge: Visit the Wella Professionals e-education website and take the Koleston Perfect Me+ seminar. • Conversion Guide: The app provides formulas matching Koleston Perfect Me+ shades with other brands. The images and the videos in this App are generated by Revelation™, a cuttingedge, highly realistic hair simulation technology developed by Coty. It marks the connection between our traditional expertise in hair colourants over decades and our ambition to always seek new ways to improve the experience of our customers and celebrate hair colour. Concept Hair / 49


r u o Y CAREER PATH NO MATTER WHERE YOU ARE ON THE CAREER PATH, YOUR JOURNEY TO SUCCESS STARTS HERE. WE’RE DELIGHTED TO BE ABLE TO CALL ON MORE THAN 135 YEARS OF INDUSTRY EXPERIENCE TO GUIDE YOU ON YOUR WAY.

1 2

CHOOSE Choose your aspirational career level from the example career path, e.g. Senior Stylist

EXPLORE, PLAN & BOOK Explore the courses and events in our example career path and discover what inspires you for the future. Contact your nearest Wella Studio or your Account Manager and start planning your and your team’s education now!

STARTING OUT

STYLIST

COLOURIST

Essential Colouring

Classic Cutting

Corrective Colour

Essential Cutting

Insta Waves & Braids

Blonde Toolbox

The Perfect Colour Choice

Red Carpet Glamour

Balayage Specialist

The Perfect Colour Blow Dry

Advanced Cutting

Insta Ready Colour

Classic Foiling

Bridal Hair

Creative Freehand

Classic Man

Activate Your Potential

Colour Genius

Movement

Hair Space

Digital Influence Lab

Digital Influence Lab

Digital Influence Lab

Hair Space

COMPLETE CUT & STYLE PACKAGE

STAR BLONDE PACKAGE

Hair Space

3

New for 2019

CHOOSE YOUR EDUCATION PACKAGE Become an expert in your field and save money! See page 10-11 for more details.

COLOUR FUNDAMENTALS PACKAGE


SENIOR STYLIST

SENIOR COLOURIST

SALON TRAINER

MANAGER/ SALON OWNER/ RECEPTIONIST

Advanced Cutting

Insta Ready Colour

Train the Trainer

Reception, making it work for your business

Ultimate Man

Master Color Expert Programme

Power of Presentation

Session

Sexy Science

Master Color Expert Programme

Activate Your Potential

Colour Masterclass

Sexy Science

Sexy Science

Activate Your Potential

Sebastian Professional MOB Programme

Digital Influence Lab Hair Space

Digital Influence Lab Hair Space

Digital Influence Lab Hair Space

MCE Maximiser

You own a salon, now build a business Business Network Live The Successful Salon Business Magnetic Recruitment

ULTIMATE WELLA COLOURIST PACKAGE

Power of Presentation Train the Trainer Wella Professionals Generation NOW Sebastian Professional Cult Team TrendVision Award

Business of Colour

Hair Space

Activate your Digital Business

Digital Influence Lab

Business Boost

STYLING GENIUS PACKAGE

PLATFORM ARTIST/EDUCATOR

BUSINESS ACCELERATOR PACKAGE


STUDENT WORK Jon Jamieson was our first ever Apprentice of the Month. He works at Ysalon in Newcastle upon Tyne. His favourite hairstyle is the Geordie Blowdry. Find all the latest and greatest #hairinspo at concepthairmag.co.uk/inspiration

52 / Concept Hair


Summer 2019 / Look Book

STUDENT WORK Samantha Wheeler won the March Apprentice of the Month award. She works at Metropolis Hairdressing in Kingston upon Thames, where she runs the blowdry bar. Her favourite hairstyle is Hollywood Waves. Concept Hair / 53


Summer 2019 \ Look Book

STUDENT WORK Ellie Parish is a Level 2 apprentice with 1 Step Colour. She created this stunning full head of highlights with cut and blowdry. Why not send us photos of your work? You may see it on our Instagram page or even in the magazine! Simply send us a message on any of our social media channels. 54 / Concept Hair


BEACH HAIR ghd Creative Artists Patrick Wilson and Samantha Cusick created these stunning looks on Lucy (left) and Lydia Connell (right) for Coachella 2019. Lucy had chain rings threaded from the front of her hair to her crown, with micro braids either side and a high ponytail with hair around the pony, leaving the waves free for an undone look. Lydia's low ponytail had Kela bead charms and chains throughout, secured by one final chain. Concept Hair / 55


BEACH HAIR Patrick Wilson, ghd Creative Artist, created this look on Ashley James. He created a deep side parting, with S waves to create lots of volume. The secret to the curl is to ensure the hair is kept flat and to use wider sections. Three micro plaits were secured with neon elastics, and broken up for a looser finish. 56 / Concept Hair


BRIDAL HAIR Encarna Moreno is a Spanish hairdresser who specialises in bridal hair. “The bride is the protagonist of her fairytale and her hair will be the centre of all looks.� Hair and Make-up by: Encarna Moreno Photography by: Alberto Zaldivar

Concept Hair / 57


BRIDAL HAIR Hair Couture uses waves with hairnets, loops or the Italian bun to show a divine woman of classic elegance. "It is for all brides, for all women, of any age and condition.� Hair by: Mayte Garrote @Different Estilistas Hair Assistant: Erika Pomeda Photography by: David Arnal Make-up by: Wilder Rodríguez Stylist: Aaron Gil

58 / Concept Hair


Summer 2019 / Look Book

AFRO HAIR Hair, styling and photography by: Ross Charles

Concept Hair / 59


AFRO HAIR British Hairdressing Awards 2018 Afro Hairdresser of the Year – Winning Collection Hair by: Michelle Thompson Photography by: Richard Miles Wardrobe by: Magdalena Jacobs Make-up by: Jessica Williams Shot for Hairdressers Journal British Hairdressing Awards

60 / Concept Hair


Summer 2019 / Look Book

FASHION HAIR Colour Artists is a collaboration between RUSH Hair, L’Oréal and London-based street artist Matt Small. Matt said: “This collaboration between artists is exactly what RUSH represents – colour, vibrancy and accessibility for everyone. I love that RUSH are always progressing and are all about the people as my art is all about the people too. It was great fun to work alongside the team to bring this project together – it brings colour, life and beauty together.” Concept Hair / 61


FASHION HAIR Civil Society – Indola Smart Street Style Collection Spring/Summer 2019 This trend is all about edge, it’s about using the way you look to make a statement. Textured bleached shapes reference the punk element of the trend while also promoting the genderless vibe. The loose curly texture gives attitude and reads the genderless, millennial inspired aesthetic. 62 / Concept Hair

Find all the latest and greatest #hairinspo at concepthairmag.co.uk/inspiration


concepthairmag.co.uk/barbering


Summer 2019 \ Business Skills

dale hince hairdresserturned-barber DALE HINCE IS A HAIRDRESSERTURNED-BARBER WHO NOW OWNS HIS OWN BARBERSHOP, CLIP HOUSE, IN SHREWSBURY. WITH HUNDREDS OF FIVE-STAR REVIEWS AND AN INSTAGRAM FEED TO DIE FOR, WE CHATTED TO HIM ABOUT HIS TRANSITION TO BARBERING, CUTTING KIDS’ HAIR, AND WHY TAKING BOOKINGS IS SO IMPORTANT.

Clip House offers a full consultation with each visit and is now fully booked six days a week! Dale is a men's hair and short hair specialist and colour technician

“KNOWING I CAN CREATE CONFIDENCE IN MY CLIENTS IS SOMETHING ELSE”

64 / Concept Hair


Summer 2019 / Business Skills

Concept hair: You trained as a Hairdresser – why did you decide to make the transition from hairdressing to barbering?

CH: What advice would you give to students who are unsure whether to go into hairdressing or barbering? DH: Whichever path you take, you took it for a reason, so just go for it. You can never learn too much and anything you take from each side of the hair world will help you. Above all, be passionate!

Dale Hince: If I am totally honest, I had found I’d lost my spark for women’s hairdressing because I had such passion for barbering. CH: How did you transition between the two? DH: The transition was very hard! I had to filter out my existing ladies and open up one day at a time at my new barbershop, in the hope that each new day would become fully booked! I am now fully booked six days a week. I trained with one of the industry’s top barbers, Ryan Cullen. CH: Are there transferable skills that can be used in both hairdressing and barbering? DH: Absolutely, having a hairdressing background has been so most important in my barbering. It’s the foundation. CH: What do you love about barbering that you didn’t get from hairdressing?

CH: You do a lot of kids’ cuts – how do you find it compared to adults? DH: These kids are the future! They are our further clientele, we have to look after them. Age means nothing to me.

T0P TIPS BOOKINGS: Taking bookings can give a barbershop a more VIP feel.

YOUR FUTURE: What you do now will impact your future. Put your all into it and you will get it back.

CH: How do you keep on learning? DH: Look & learns, education days... investing in yourself is vital! CH: What is your proudest moment? DH: Being asked to showcase my work at Salon International. CH: You’ve recently taken on Ollie, a newly-trained barber. What advice would you give to those starting in their first salon jobs? DH: I have a quote, “reap what you sow”. What you do now will impact your future. Put your all into it and you will get it back.

DH: Hard question! I really enjoyed my hairdressing but it’s the intricacy and accuracy, the small details that can make a gentleman’s cut POP!

CH: Most barbers don’t book – why have you decided to go against the crowd?

CH: Who is your biggest inspiration as a barber? DH: Ryan Cullen. I looked up to him for years and meeting him clarified why. He’s very successful yet very humble. I respect that so much.

DH: I took booking appointments from my salon days, it works really well. It’s not for every client but when my clients walk in, they sit straight in my chair. I like organisation, it feels more VIP.

CH: What do you love the most about this industry?

CH: What are your plans for your future and the future of Clip House?

DH: I love all of it, from the social side to fashion to the buzz of clients when they leave the shop! Knowing I can create confidence in my clients is something else.

DH: I’m hoping to expand my business and keep myself educated and up-to-date with the latest trends and visions. I’m enrolling onto a photography course very soon, exciting!

“AGE MEANS NOTHING TO ME”

Concept Hair / 65


Summer 2019 \ Events

barber connect Calling all barbering apprentices!

ON 2ND / 3RD JUNE, EUROPE’S LARGEST BARBER SHOW HITS THE INTERNATIONAL CENTRE IN TELFORD ONCE AGAIN! BARBER CONNECT IS THE HUB FOR ALL OF THE INDUSTRY’S HEAVYWEIGHTS TO NETWORK, EDUCATE, LEARN AND SHOW THE BARBERING WORLD THE LATEST AND MOST INNOVATIVE PRODUCTS ON THE MARKET.

There are two stages at Barber Connect; Wahl Stage and Clubman Pinaud Stage. These stages will be walked over by some of the biggest names barbering has to offer, including Josh Lamonaca, Simon Shaw, Kevin Luchmun, Charlie Gray and Matty Conrad. These free seminars are the perfect platform for barbers of all experience levels to learn from. Menspire will lay down the foundations of a great haircut, Wahl’s Creative Team will show both modern & classic techniques, while Matty Conrad is famed for his ability to photograph his work to editorial level. Barber Connect also allows you to meet the faces behind some of your favourite barber brands. The event is sponsored by Wahl, Jack Dean, Clubman Pinaud and Barber Blades, all of whom will be sure to have product launches or show discounts! We can already confirm Andis will be releasing a collaborative clipper with Uppercut Deluxe and Babyliss Pro will be exclusively releasing their brand new Foil Shaver in very limited quantities. You won’t want to miss out!

66 / Concept Hair

barber connect is europe's largest barber show THE AIM IS TO ENABLE FREE EDUCATION TO ALL BARBERS

So what’s the catch? There isn’t one. Barber Connect is FREE to attend, all seminars are free, even the parking on site is free! The aim of Barber Connect is to enable free education to all barbers, from students to master barbers, as well as providing a platform for barbers to elevate themselves and the industry. Get your free tickets at www.barberconnect.co.uk.

“EUROPE’S LARGEST BARBER SHOW!”


rising star Harvey Luke Allen Concept Hair: Hi Harvey, great to meet you! Why did you decide to join the hair world? Harvey Luke Allen: I grew up in a salon so the hairdressing environment has always inspired me. I was there every day after school, it’s made me very passionate.

Harvey Luke Allen started hairdressing at 15, having grown up as a thirdgeneration hairdresser in his mum’s salon, which is named after him He now works there, and joined Akito Scissors at Pro Hair Live

CH: You trained at the Sid Sottung Academy – how did you find doing such an intensive course? HLA: It was difficult, it was straight in headfirst. I was training 9-5 for four weeks, then it was straight into the salon. I’m still training on women’s hair one day a week at college and one day in the salon. CH: At 16, you must be the youngest barber in your salon – how do clients react to that? HLA: At first they were a bit confused and unsure, but I felt confident. With what I was taught, I felt like I couldn't really go wrong.

CH: How did you find Pro Hair Live? HLA: It was wicked! I was nervous because I’d never been to a show before but Akito were very encouraging. I did a demonstration, talking about their scissors and doing some cutting. As it went on, more people came to watch. I had quite an audience! CH: What is your favourite job? HLA: Most people would say fading, but I love all barbering! Doing women’s hair is harder because the appointments are longer and I have a short attention span. CH: Who is your biggest inspiration? HLA: I’ve been looking at Josh Lamonaca at Menspire, I’d love to do their courses. There are so many great barbers though, I couldn't choose just one!

CH: Where do you see yourself in five years? HLA: I’d love to own a barbershop and do training of my own. The training I’ve had is amazing and I want to give that to others. CH: How would you encourage people your age to get into hair? HLA: It’s an amazing craft, I compare it to art. People need to realise that it’s a great career. I don't even see it as work, I find it quite therapeutic!

“WITH WHAT I WAS TAUGHT, I FELT LIKE I COULDN'T REALLY GO WRONG”

Concept Hair / 67


Summer 2019 / Events

Scotland’s Best Student Barber 2019 Announced!

THE SEARCH FOR 2019’S MOST TALENTED UP-AND-COMING SCOTTISH STUDENT BARBER IS NOW OVER. JONATHAN GILMOUR, A STUDENT AT CITY OF GLASGOW COLLEGE, BEAT OFF FIERCE COMPETITION FROM STUDENTS ACROSS SCOTLAND TO WIN THE COVETED TITLE.

Following a photographic competition, student entries from colleges and training providers throughout Scotland covered three categories: accuracy, style and suitability. After whittling down this year’s student entries, the final six were invited on stage, where the winner was announced by a panel of leading experts. Scotland’s Best Student Barber Award aims to give students the chance to develop their skills in using basic techniques, as well as providing them with a platform to develop their career in the barbering industry.

Jonathan Gilmour has been crowned as Scotland’s Best Student Barber The award gives students a platform to develop their barbering careers

Baldy, Lead Andis Educator and Head Judge said: “Wow, what a weekend! It’s so refreshing for someone like myself with my experience to watch young talent coming through and learning from fresh exciting new barbers that are upping the Scottish barber levels.” Mike Taylor, Judge from the Great British Barbering Academy, said: “Fantastic! It just proves that Scottish barbering is getting stronger every year. The emerging talent is fantastic. Education is key and it proves that education works”. Thanks to all of the judges and barber awards sponsors: Andis, Styling Products UK and The Great British Barbering Academy.

“EDUCATION IS KEY AND IT PROVES THAT EDUCATION WORKS” To find out more, check out: www.scottishhairandbeautyshow.com


Summer 2019 / Exercises

vtct exercises Vocational Training Charitable Trust is a specialist awarding organisation offering vocational and technical qualifications in a range of service sectors. These exercises have been created to test your technical knowledge on cutting, colouring and styling. The exercises have been created in conjunction with Pivot Point. VTCT has worked with Pivot Point, and together they’ve created a new online learning platform called LAB. LAB helps you develop your skills and knowledge through an easy-to-use digital interface. It is designed to help you stretch and deepen your understanding through interactive quizzes and videos and more. Ask your training provider if they’re using LAB, and get started today!

If you would like to know more about how one of VTCT’s courses could help further your career, check out the website: www.vtct.org.uk

Concept Hair / 69


Summer 2019 \ Exercises

TECHNICAL SKILLS Complete the following multiple choice questions by selecting one answer. Which of the following describes a Q1 conditioner you would use after a chemical service?

Ans.

The depth of colour refers to how light or dark a colour is. The international Q5 colour chart is used to define hair Ans. colour systematically. Which number is used to identify medium blonde?

a

Moisturisers

b

Emollients

a

5

c

Penetrating

b

6

d

Antioxidants

c

7

d

8

Which of the following words is another Q2 Ans. term for split ends? a

Damaged cuticle

b

Fragilitas crinium

c

Trichorrhexis nodosa

d

Monilethrix

Q3

Which bonds are newly formed as part of the relaxing process?

a

Hydrogen bonds

b

Oxygen bonds

c

Lanthionine bonds

d

Salt bonds

Q4

Q6

a

Incompatibility

b

Porosity

c

Elasticity

d

Strand

a

Does not have an effect on the colour

b

Slows down the colour development

c

Creates heat and speeds up the colour development depending on its strength

d

It activates the colouring product and its strength indicates the amount of lift

Ans.

Which of the following tests determines Ans. the rate of absorption?

What effect does hydrogen peroxide Ans. have on permanent colouring products?

Which of the following numbers Q7 identifies very curly Z pattern spring curl? a

2B

b

4B

c

3C

d

2C

e

4C

f

3A

Go to concepthairmag.co.uk to download exercise answers for free 70 / Concept Hair

Ans.


Summer 2019 / Exercises

CURLY HAIR Complete the following multiple choice questions by selecting one answer. Which one of the following is the best Q1 technique to achieve a smooth finish on long type 3B hair?

Ans.

To add shine to type 4 hair, which one Q4 of the following would be the most suitable product?

a

Pick dry and straightening irons service

a

Mousse

b

A flat brush blow dry and tong service

b

Oil

c

A round brush blow dry service

c

Gel

d

Diffuser dry service

d

Wax

Q2 Tight curly hair has? a

Ans.

Which one of the following is the best Q5 technique, to achieve a smooth finish on relaxed type 4 hair?

Ans.

A round follicle a

A wrap set

b

A pincurl set

b

A flat follicle

c

An oval follicle

c

A velcro roller set

d

A kidney shaped follicle

d

A heated roller set

Q3

Ans.

Hair with a tight coiled curl pattern is called?

a

Type 3B

b

Type 3C

c

Type 4A

d

Type 4B

Ans.

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Summer 2019 \ Exercises

FLAT TOP Answer the following True or False questions.

Q1

Q2

Q3

To prepare the hair for cutting a flat top, the hair should be blow dried to stand up as straight as possible.

When creating a flat top, the clippers should follow the contours of the head, when cutting the back and sides.

To create the flat top shape, begin at the crown with the comb positioned horizontally, elevate the hair straight up using the wide teeth of the comb.

The tools required to refine the hairline of the flat top cut are clippers Q4 with attachments.

When cutting a flat top, it is essential to regularly use the mirror to check Q5 the look for evenness and balance.

ANSWER

TRUE

FALSE

ANSWER

TRUE

FALSE

ANSWER

TRUE

FALSE

ANSWER

TRUE

FALSE

ANSWER

TRUE

FALSE

Go to concepthairmag.co.uk to download exercise answers for free 72 / Concept Hair


APPRENTICE OF THE YEAR COMPETITION JANUARY – APRIL 2020

BRING IT ON!

6 regional heats & grand final

0 2 0 2 n i w

ne

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TELFORD INTERNATIONAL CENTRE

2 JUN - 3 JUN 2019

NOW AVAILABLE Barber Connect takes over The International Centre Telford on the 2nd & 3rd of June 2019. You can expect two days of world class education, top draw show deals and two rooms filled with the industry’s crème de la crème.

Network with your favourite brands, take advantage of exclusive show deals and buy products that will be released at the show! With free tickets, free education and free parking, there is no reason not to register for your ticket at

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Concept Hair Summer 2019 Issue  

Concept Hair Summer 2019 Issue