INSIDE... INTERVIEW WITH guy tang raise your insta game concept hair apprentice of the year 2020
t n e d u t s r o f e n i z a g a s m r e y l s n s e r d r the o i a h e c i t n e r p p a and
Hair: Colour Project 2019. Photography: Richard Miles. Make up: Lucy Flower. Styling: Stacey Jane Shaw at Russell Eaton.
Join ClubStar today to enjoy free entry for some Fellowship events and give your career the best start possible! The hairdressing industry is very competitive and busy business to be in, one where experience counts for everything! ClubStar membership is a sure fire way to get ahead, itâ€™s the first step on the Fellowship ladder for hairdressers aged 16-25 and the ClubStar Art Team provides the best head start with mentoring, education and plenty of exciting opportunities.
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Autumn 2019 / Editor's Note
hether you’re just starting out on your hairdressing or barbering course, or whether you’re just about recovered from the summer break and are settling back in to college life, welcome.
If you’ve just picked up Concept Hair for the first time, this is what you need to know: It is the only magazine designed for apprentice and student hairdressers and barbers. The interviews, features and step-by-step guides you’ll find within these pages are put together with you in mind. There’s also loads of exciting stuff going on over on our website and on our social media feeds, including the latest news, competitions and the chance to be named Concept Hair’s Apprentice of the Month. This academic year is an exciting one for us – and, we hope, you – as the first ever Concept Hair Apprentice of the Year competition takes place in colleges around the country in the New Year. Competitions are a great way to kick-start your career and we couldn’t be more thrilled to be offering this opportunity to apprentices and students.
MANAGING EDITOR: CELIA MATTHEWS email@example.com
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TECHNICAL CONTRIBUTORS: VTCT, Pivot Point
ADVERTISING: ZOË TANNER & PATRICK BLORE email@example.com
PRINTERS Stephens & George, England
DISCLAIMER Concept Hair Magazine is published by SNG Publishing Ltd (SNG). All content and artwork is © SNG Publishing Ltd or its contributors and SNG is a trade mark of SNG Publishing Ltd. No part of Concept Hair Magazine may be copied, transmitted or published in any form or by any means without prior permission. Although SNG has made every effort to ensure the accuracy of this publication, it does not verify any claims or other information appearing in the advertisements contained in Concept Hair Magazine. It therefore cannot accept any responsibility whatsoever for consequences that may arise from the content or artwork contained in Concept Hair Magazine, including any errors or omissions or any opinions or advice given therein. This publication and its content is not a substitute for professional advice on a particular matter. Advertisements are accepted for publication in Concept Hair only upon SNG Publishing Ltd standard terms of advertising.
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Concept Hair / 01
Autumn 2019 \ Contents
01 Editor’s Word 04 Latest News 06 Trending 08 20 Things I Love with James Earnshaw
09 Concept Hair Apprentice of the Year 2020 12
The Interview with Jamie Stevens
Creating the Perfect Salon
How to Create: The Colour Melt
Party Season Top Tips
The Interview with Guy Tang
How to Create: The Messy Pony
New Indola #colorblaster Colours
The Skills of Haircutting
How to Create: Short Graduated Form
The Interview with Jo Martin
40 Look Book: Clash 44 Look Book: OSMO Generation Now
48 Look Book: Fellowship Colour Project Collection 50
Look Book: Mens’ Hair
How to Create: Pomp
Autumn 2019 / Contents
Manifestoâ€™s Mikey Pearson
Whatâ€™s in a Scissor?
Mills X Primark
Unmissable Hair Event
60 Choose Your Own Path 62
Instagram like a Boss
62 Exercises 64 Business Skills 65
Health and Safety
Concept Hair / 03
Autumn 2019 \ News
Shaving masterclass for Fellowship members
ome 42% of men now wear facial hair, according to YouGov research, with 44% of those choosing a full beard.
With the popularity of beards in mind, the Fellowship for British Hairdressing’s Barber Project headed to The Master Barber’s Shop in Southport for a day of education.
Rushanara Ali, MP for Bethnal Green and Bow, cut the ribbon on the newly rebranded centre, meeting learners working in the centre’s salon as well as the Pearly King of Forest Gate and the Pearly Queen of Old Kent Road and Bow Bells.
Sarah Morrissey, of Sarai Hair & Beauty, said: “Beard trimming wasn’t something I’ve done before, so this was really interesting – and, like most things, it looks much easier than it is.”
Finalists named for British Hairdressing Awards he finalists for HJ’s British Hairdressing Awards 2019 have been announced.
More than 100 hair industry judges have shortlisted six stylists for each category. Finalists will now each submit another four images of their work in a bid to be named the top hairdresser in their region or
04 / Concept Hair
he Central Hair London apprentice training centre has been officially opened in Bethnal Green, East London.
The centre in Hollybush Gardens, formerly known as the Joshua Galvin Academy, was opened in 1986 and has been responsible for training thousands of young hairdressers.
Owners Dan and Robert Rix gave a brief history of shaving and a demonstration of their skills before the Fellowship team were given their chance to practice a shave and beard trim, including using a razor to sculpt an outline.
Check out more at fellow
Rebranded training centre opens in London
Ms Ali said: “The training centre is a great asset to Tower Hamlets and the wider community, supporting people from all different backgrounds to launch their careers in the hair industry.”
Check out www.centraltr aininggroup.com
area of expertise at the ceremony in November. As well as celebrating the UK’s most talented stylists, the awards now recognise hairdressers from around the world in the International Collection of the Year category. Hairdressers under 30 can enter the new Trend Image of the Year category, which celebrates commercial, wearable and trend-led hair.
For the full list of finalists head to www.hji.co.uk
Autumn 2019 / News
Jay Birmingham is new Hot Tools Professional ambassador elebrity hairdresser Jay Birmingham has been announced as an ambassador for Hot Tools Professional.
Jay is known for his large celebrity clientele, which includes Helen Flanagan, Kelly Brook, Amanda Holden, Gemma Collins and Jess Wright. He is also the official stylist for girl band MO. In his new role as European Celebrity Hair Ambassador, Jay will promote Hot Tools Professional on social media and represent the brand at roadshows and other events. Jay said it was a proud moment for him. “I have been using Hot Tools Professional tools religiously since they launched in the UK and I love the range,” he said. “I can’t wait to share our plans and products over the next few months.”
Hairdresser’s £1-percustomer campaign raises £1,000 for charity hairdresser has donated £1,000 to help fellow professionals who have fallen on hard times.
Darrel Hall, who works at Taylors Hair Studio in Chapel St Leonards, Skegness, put aside £1 for every customer until he hit his target of raising £1,000 for the newly-named Hair & Beauty Charity (formerly The Hairdressers’ Charity). “I’d become aware of the charity through industry friends and the trade press and wanted to show my support,” said Darrel. “Not everyone is in a fortunate position in life and work. It was so simple to do and I hope other hairdressers will be inspired to do it, too.” The Hair & Beauty Charity supports about 80 adults and 40 children each year, and needs to raise at least £150,000 annually to fund its work.
For more info visit uk.ho
Goldwell announces UK Color Zoom winners
he Color Zoom UK Final took place at Printworks in London, with Goldwell announcing gold, silver and bronze winners in three categories – New Talent, Creative and Partner. The competition’s REMIX theme focused on bright colours, sharp contours and strong
Find out more at www.the
contrasts inspired by Pop Art and graphic minimalism. The gold winners of the Color Zoom Challenge are Courtney Cairns of Headromance, Lauren Roma Hanlon of Slunks and Richard Munslow of TONI&GUY Hemel Hempstead. They will now compete in the international live finale in Vienna to become one of three global Color Zoom winners, with the chance to join the creative team and be part of the Color Zoom 2021 Collection.
Find out more at goldwell.co.uk/color-zoom
For more news on the world of hairdressing, head to concepthairmag.co.uk/news
Concept Hair / 05
Autumn 2019 \ Trending
BY TOM TRACEY, DIGITAL EDITOR
The hair industry is Instagram mad! I headed north of the border this summer for Sophia Hilton’s Not Another Social Media Course, to get the scoop on how Sophia catapulted herself and Not Another Salon into the Insta Hall of Fame. You can find our top tips on page 62. But technology has other uses in hairdressing aside from posting your work on social media. If your ambition is to go down the salon route - whether freelance, working in a salon or having one of your own, you’ll need to stay on top of the admin side of things. There are multiple apps available to cover this kind of thing. A good one we came across recently is a newly-launched booking management software, called WhatSalon. WhatSalon offers easy-to-use booking software for salons or freelancers who don’t have booking software, and integrates with booking software for salons that have it. Users can view and book available appointments wherever their location, find a new salon or book with their favourite stylist. There are other apps and systems available, but this type of software could save you time and energy spent on crunching facts and figures, meaning you can get back to what you’re best at - hair!
loud Nine was founded in 2009 by professional hairdresser and pioneer Robert Powls, who set out to create a new hairstyling brand that epitomises luxury and innovation. Challenging the norm, celebrating diversity and championing inclusivity, Cloud Nine provides you with the tools to achieve your best hair yet.
Since its launch, Cloud Nine has grown rapidly across the globe to become one of the most soughtafter haircare brands with an elite following. Cloud Nine represents the gold standard in hairstyling and continues to win numerous awards for innovation. A multi award-winning Styling Tool with a cult following, Cloud Nine’s White Label Iron, EXCLUSIVELY DEVELOPED FOR STYLISTS, is available in two sizes. The Original Iron delivers optimum performance for all hair types whilst The Wide Iron with it’s 1.5 inch plate is perfect for longer, thicker hair, delivering exceptional results thanks to Cloud Nine’s Kinder Styling Technology.
Prepare to be the “subject of serious hair envy ” Vogue UK
Autumn 2019 / Trending
Dates for your diary
Wella TrendVision Final 30th September, London Salon International 5th, 6th and 7th October, London The Journey to My Destination with Sally Brooks 8th November, Leeds 22nd November, London British Hairdressing Awards 25th November, London
mineral-infused “Floating ceramic plates lock in moisture and minimise heat damage
Cloud Nine’s iconic variable temperature control allows you to choose from seven temperature settings (from 100˚C to 200˚C). Your hair is as unique as your fingerprint, that's why temperature control is so important to deliver optimal performance and long-lasting, glossy results for all hair types. Continued styling with Cloud Nine at lower temperatures is proven to deliver SHINIER, HEALTHIER HAIR, reducing split-ends and breakage. Cloud Nine's White Label: The Original Iron features signature mineral-infused floating ceramic plates that are proven to lock in moisture, seal the hair cuticle and minimise heat damage. The plates undergo an intensive 72-hour infusion process, where exclusive minerals are baked into the ceramic plates. The floating plates cushion the impact through each section of the hair, minimising snagging to ensure single-stroke styling, every time. For the ultimate finishing touch, you can PERSONALISE your straightening irons with Cloud Nine’s exclusive MONOGRAMMING SERVICE. For more information visit professional.cloudninehair.com or call 0845 2003563
fun facts The least common hair colour in the world is red, with 1% to 2% being redheads. It is most common in Britain - and 13% of Scottish people have red hair. The oldest known indication of hair styling is braiding, which dates back about 30,000 years. American footballer Troy Polamalu insured his three-feet-long curly locks for $1 million in 2010. The fastest time to braid a person's hair was achieved by Aycan Kemal, who completed a whole head of cornrow braids (26 in total) in 15 minutes at the Afro Hair and Beauty Show, London in 2011. Concept Hair / 07
Autumn 2019 \ 20 Things I Love
20 things i love
James Earnshaw is a phenomenal hairdresser and creative director. He has a whopping 17k following on Insta and just finalised for Hair Trend of the Year 2019, Creative HEAD's IT GUY of the Year and Hairdressers Journal's Midlands Hairdresser of the Year. We caught up with James to find out what he loves most. y destination? Favourite holida ite place I ey! My favour Sydn
! have ever been
Tell us one thing that nobo dy knows about you
Favourite film of all time?
The Devil Wears Prada is
Favourite celebrity haircut?
A lot of people don’t belie ve me but I used to be an ice ska ter!
Erin O’Connor’s short strong crop!
Best way to relax?
Turn off your phone.
Best tip you’ve ever been giv en?
Create the hair you want to create and put it out to the world, no t what you think people want to see! Be you r own brand!
Last series you watched?
apprentice Your best tip for ? hairdressers
The Assassination of Gianni Versace and it was unreal!
u can n as much as yo Work hard, lear ! ing to be better and keep push
Which would you rather exp lore: space or the ocean?
I think I’ll try and explor e more of the world first, I'd love to tra vel America!
You can’t beat some really good homemade nachos!
Most famous client you’ve
Late nights or early morning
Late nights 100%.
Cara Delevingne at an LF
Last song you listened to?
In one sentence, what inspires you the mos t?
Demi Lovato - Cool for the Summer.
Working with a team of people and crea ting something iconic that makes people go ‘wow� and inspires others.
Tea or coffee?
If I’m making it, tea! If I’m buying it, coffee!
hair, alive or If you could style anyone’s dead, who would it be?
w, I would say the That’s a toughie! Right no incredible! model Duckie Thot, she is
Best insta account to follow apart from your own? @renyaxydis - the BEST hairdresser to follow for sexy, effortless hair inspo.
Who was your ultimate idol as a young hairdresser? Efi Davies from TONI&GUY and still is now!
Best app on yo
ur phone? Unfold, my favo urite app to crea te cool Insta story grap hics!
sass & bide, beautiful Au
@jhair_stylist 08 / Concept Hair
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APPRENTICE OF THE YEAR?
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JANUARY â€“ MARCH 2020
Open to apprentices and students
t r a t s k c r i e e k r a c r you
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ENTER NOW AT CONCEPTHAIRMAG.CO.UK
Autumn 2019 \ AOY 2020
Apprentice of the Year Competition
AVA N T G A R D E
JANUARY – MARCH
Do you have what it takes to compete against the best hairdressing students and apprentices in the country?
e are so excited to announce the first ever Concept Hair Apprentice of the Year Competition, open to both hairdressing and barbering students. The competition is made up of eight different categories and is really easy to enter - you can be put forward by either your lecturer or your employer.
This is a great chance to meet incredible brand ambassadors and watch exciting product demos. Plus, it’s all free! Take part in one of six regional heats across England and Wales, during January and February. Winners will be chosen from each category to compete at
the Grand Final in March, at the L’Oréal Professionnel Academy in London. As well as the experience gained from taking part, there are fantastic “money can’t buy” prizes up for grabs, and every competitor will take away a t-shirt and certificate.
to see you all when the competition “We can'tgetswaitunderway in the new year ” 10 / Concept Hair
“With a brand heritage that spans over 100 years, we have continued to pioneer, support and shape the future of the hairdressing industry – and what better way than to focus on the next generation. We can’t wait to see what tomorrow’s hair professionals will bring.” Monica Teodoro General Manager
“We’re incredibly proud to be partnering with Concept Hair to create a platform that supports and showcases the next generation of talented hairdressing professionals. Their fresh perspective will shape the future of the industry, and we’re so excited to see their creations during the competition.” Jessica Wilkhu Head of Brand & Marketing
“Education is a huge part of our global brand and we always aim to support the next generation. During the competition, we will be looking to see students who show strong foundational shapes, with a modern edge and strong finishes. I can’t wait to see what the competition brings.”
“We are looking forward to seeing some outstanding, emerging talent. Creativity is at the heart of everything that the Fellowship does. Seeing hairdressing through young people’s eyes is always inspirational and competitions like this show the population what this amazing industry has to offer.”
Simon Shaw Global Artistic Director
Ken Picton President
ENTER NOW AT CONCEPTHAIRMAG.CO.UK
Hair by: Steven Smart | Photo by: Richard Miles
A word from our sponsors
Autumn 2019 \ Interview
Jamie Stevens H
airdresser to the stars, Jamie Stevens, has worked with tons of celebrities – including Kylie Minogue, Leonardo DiCaprio and Elle Macpherson – and has appeared on many TV programmes, sharing tips and tricks of the trade. We caught up with Jamie to find out what life is like working amongst the rich and famous!
For people who “ are prepared to put the work in, the sky’s the limit
Quickfire Questions: Favourite UK city? London What’s your favourite hobby? Football and being a dad Favourite hair trend of all time? Probably the mullet What’s the best meal you’ve ever had? Prawn cocktail What’s the strangest request a client has ever made to you? I had to cut a client’s hair while she sat in her underwear!
Autumn 2019 / Interview
CH: How did you get the X-Factor job as official backstage stylist? JS: I created some mood boards and ideas for contestants and got chosen. It was brilliant fun, I got quite a lot of camera time so it was great for my profile but ultimately it was taking too much time out of the salon for my team – so after five years, I called it a day. CH: What’s the best thing about doing celebrity hair?
Concept Hair: Hi Jamie! Would you mind introducing yourself to our readers? Jamie Stevens: I own two salons. I’ve worked with celebrities from Kylie Minogue, Elle Macpherson, Eva Herzigova and Myleene Klass to Leonardo DiCaprio, Christian Slater, Colin Farrell, Hugh Grant and Olly Murs. I’ve appeared on TV shows such as Lorraine, This Morning, Gok’s Fashion Fix and How to Look Good Naked, where I share tips and tricks of the hair industry alongside cutting and styling hair. I was the youngest nominee for British Hairdresser of the Year and won the British Hairdressing Awards’ Men’s Hairdresser of the Year Award three times, which saw me enter into the BHA’s Hall of Fame. I have my own product range, MR. Jamie Stevens, which is designed for men with thinning hair.
JS: Celebrities are no different except that your work is then seen by a really wide audience! It’s great to have your work acknowledged. The downside is that you have to be available all the time, which is tricky when you’re a salon stylist. CH: How is men’s hair different to women’s? JS: I have a real passion for helping men with thinning hair as it affects such a huge percentage of the population yet there’s such a stigma around it. It’s incredible how a good cut and some disguise products can change a man’s hair and really boost his confidence and self-esteem.
CH: What’s your favourite thing about the industry? JS: Hairdressers really share their knowledge and there are so many opportunities. We’re an amazing community and for people who are prepared to put the work in, the sky’s the limit. CH: What was your first step to becoming a celebrity hairdresser? JS: After I won Men’s Hairdresser of the Year, Gok Wan approached me to cut his hair and work on How To Look Good Naked – I worked on several shows with him after that. CH: What made you want to become a hairdresser? JS: I was born into a family of two great loves: football and hairdressing. My father was a professional footballer, while my mother, grandmother and great-grandfather were all hairdressers. Growing up, I would help out my mum in the salon, alongside playing football. When I was 16, I injured my ankle so I didn’t waste any time and went straight to college and achieved Levels 1, 2 and 3 in hairdressing.
CH: If you could only give one piece of advice to those just starting out, what would it be? JS: Work on your days off, research, and assist as many people as possible. Practice equals perfection.
are no different except that your work “Celebrities is then seen by a really wide audience ” @jamiestevenshair
Concept Hair / 13
Autumn 2019 \ Salons
windows Using a full glass frontage floods the salon with natural light and gives a spacious feel. It also catches the eye of the passing public, which is paramount for encouraging new business.
Lighting LED was chosen for the salon as it works well with natural light and gives a much bigger feel. It also gives a cleaner effect to the salon and is fantastic when taking photographs.
Furniture All RUSH salons are furnished by Maletti. There are 14 styling stations and a bespoke colour area, situated behind the backwash area, which has four basins.
creating the perfect salon
RUSH WESTFIELD WHITE CITY
RUSH Westfield White City is the latest addition to the salon groupâ€™s portfolio, built over 25 years. Located in the shopping haven of Londonâ€™s Westfield, the team had a blank canvas to transform, with the aim of creating something simple yet sophisticated, using as much of the space as possible. Stell Andrew is the RUSH co-founder and designer. The RUSH team have been in the premises now for six months and have 14 staff. 14 / Concept Hair
Autumn 2019 / Salons
the colour wall Designed and created by longtime friend and collaborator Matt Small, the installation is an eye catcher and is such a statement within the salon, with clients continuously using this as a background when taking pictures of their new hair. Matt is an artist from London who has collaborated with RUSH on many projects, including the RUSH Academy. The latest project with Matt is the Rush Colour Artist Project, which has been a massive success.
the salon floor The floor within the salon is made of stone, which is the same in many RUSH salons throughout the UK. Itâ€™s beautiful to look at and is very hard-wearing, a must for salons with heavy footfall.
HOT TIP Hard-wearing floors are a must have for salons with heavy footfall Concept Hair / 15
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A visit to Salon International on Monday 7th October will set you on the path to success Individual student tickets just £15 each (or £12 for groups of 10+) Book your tickets now at www.salonshow.co.uk/ConceptHair Or call 0800 358 0058 (UK) or +44 (0)121 796 6291 (Overseas) Book discounted Guy Tang tickets with promo code GUYTANGSTUDENT Book discounted RUSH tickets with promo code RUSHSTUDENT
THE HEART OF HAIRDRESSING
Over 400 brands
4 free live stages
Over 150 free live shows & demos
Tickets to Guy Tang Salon Live for £15 + VAT
Tickets to RUSH Salon Live for £15 + VAT
Autumn 2019 \ How To
how to create
a colour melt with a twist!
Vicki Hoskin, Manic Panic educator and brand ambassador, takes us through the step-by-step process to create a super soft colour melt with a twist. Perfect for the daring festival-goer!
Pre-lighten the hair to a creamy level 10; this is the perfect base for pastel and soft shades. When lightening the hair, I always recommend lifting low and soft with my saviour, Olaplex, in every step of the colouring process.
After lightening, roughly dry the hair off, and divide the top section into a diamond shape. Starting from the very front, centre-part back to the crown. You can make your diamond as deep as you like on the sides (I brought them to 1.5 inches around the ears).
HOT TIP On a guest I would usually dilute my vivid shades down with Olaplex No2, giving them a mini treatment whilst the colour develops 18 / Concept Hair
STEPS 3 & 4 I selected a mixture of our Manic Panic Classic range and our Professional Range. The textures vary, Classic being a cream-based consistency and Pro being gel-based. Both of these ranges can be intermixed, giving you a vast colour palette! For the underneath of the diamond section I used our Classic Electric Banana Pastel-izer with our Classic Pastel-izer (in a ratio one part vivid to three parts pastelizer). This pale pastel yellow will be blended into Classic Electric Lizard, also
pastelized with our Classic Pastel-izer (in a ratio one part vivid to three parts pastelizer). When blending the two colours, use your finger tips to work them together. Once the whole underneath section is finished the result should look like the above. It is always important to work methodically, keeping your sections clean and working bottom to top. This ensures that no colour is placed over our diamond section, keeping it nice and clean.
Autumn 2019 / How To
I then section off the underneath area, covering it roughly in foil so I have a shield for when I place my diamond section over the top. You don’t need to do this if you use colours on the same spectrum.
Through the top section I use one pot (118ml) of Classic Blue Angel, a premixed pastel blue. I added a 10p-sized amount of Pro Love Power Purple to this, just in case there were any sneaky underlying yellow tones, the violet would help neutralise them - giving a true pastel blue and not a sea green!
Dry and style to your preference. I used a medium ghd styler for a pulled-out, beachy tousled look. This colour placement is perfect for super bright pops of neon around the face, creating a beautiful money-piece glow! I also left a UV surprise for you until the very end!
FINISH The colours I chose for the underneath are actually UV reactive, giving a gorgeous glow under black light! You could of course switch the colours around, having the UV through the top. The choice is yours!
Our end colour is Pro Pussycat Pink and Pro Pastel-izer, again using the ratio of one part vivid to three parts pastelizer. Using my fingers, I fuse the two together, creating a gorgeous purple shade. Cover the whole diamond section, ensuring your sectioning is clean. Wipe your hands after each application.
I adore a colour “ blend. Working with two colours gives you a third in between
For more info on Manic Panic colours, check out www.manic-panic.co.uk
STEP 8 Once the top is finished, leave to develop for 30 minutes. Then rinse with cold water. This locks down the hair cuticles keeping your colour in place. Manic Panic colours do not run, providing you rinse with cold water and do not shampoo! You can then condition the hair.
Concept Hair / 19
y t r a P n o s a e S Top Tips
Autumn 2019 \ Party Season Hair
by Ashley Gamble
Plaits, twists and braids continue to be a huge trend on the catwalk, as well as on social media where there are more than 11.5million results for the #braids tag! Clients love to watch these tutorials, but it’s your expertise as a hairstylist that can bring those looks to life for a trending party look. It’s a great idea to have a Pinterest board or Instagram Saved collection of cool braided styles to offer to your clients, so they can pick from a pre-selected menu; and so you can practice the styles in advance! You can have a lot of fun with braids too – accessories and glitter aren’t just for festival season, they’re perfect for parties too.
Pastel colours continue to be a huge trend and the best thing about them is that they can be totally temporary – making them perfect for party season! If your clients want a quick colour update, wash-out products like Schwarzkopf Professional Instant Blush spray are a great choice. They allow you to transform colour, but without lasting results; so ideal for a weekend makeover that can be back to normal by Monday! We offer them alongside styling services for a fun, fresh, fashion-led update on braids, buns and beachy waves. Try mixing a couple of different shades together for a take on the tie-dye trend.
plaits, twists & braids
Pa s t e l c o l o u r s
In 2007, Ashley achieved a place on the acclaimed Fellowship for British Hairdressing F.A.M.E. Team. He now mentors for the Fellowship, including the ClubStar Art Team!
Curls are perfect for party season, and the bigger the better when it comes to making an impact! For the perfect curl, it’s all in the prep. Look out for products that add hold and definition; we love Mad About Curls Twister Definition Cream for naturally curly types, or OSiS+ Bouncy Curls when adding them into other hairtypes. Big curls create a great base for the ongoing trend for hair accessories, too. If you’re adding volume with texture, look out for larger, chunky hair accessories with sparkle, as well as trending headbands, which are great for keeping curls under control on the dancefloor!
Hair: Olivia Nevill at Ashley Gamble | Photography: Ashley Gamble | Make-up and Styling: Ashley Gamble Beauty Team
20 / Concept Hair
Autumn 2019 / Interview
uy Tang is a hair superstar who shares his amazing journey on Instagram and YouTube. His video channel, which has stormed to more than two million subscribers and 160 million views, is full of amazing tutorials, transformations and inspiration. He created the stunning Mydentity Color line, aimed at bringing fun and excitement into colouring.
We spoke to Guy about his journey, and how he is making the hair community a happier, more accepting place. Concept Hair: It’s great to speak with you, Guy! First of all, could you introduce yourself to our readers? Guy Tang: Hello to all the #Hairbesties in the land, this is Guy Tang, your No.1 #Hairbestie. I started as a platform educator for an international hair colour company for seven years. I love sharing my techniques and what I know at hair shows. CH: What made you get into hairdressing? GT: I actually started with photography during high school and I realised that I took pictures of women and their hairstyles. Then I started playing with hair colouring and it made me fall in love with hair.
BY TOM TRACEY
Guy Tang is a hairdressing megastar with more than two million followers on Instagram and two million subscribers on YouTube His Mydentity Colour line offers incredible, unique colours Guy says creative colours are now wearable in everyday life
CH: How big a part has social media had in your success? How did your huge following come about? GT: I started doing YouTube videos as a personal blog of my adventures in life and a part of it is hair. I noticed that I get a lot of views with my hair tutorials, so I started sharing more of them online. At that time, I didn’t know the magnitude of the impact I made in the industry. When I was starting out, not a lot of people wanted to share their secrets. I feel like our community had a stunted growth and I wanted to make that much-needed change. CH: You’re regarded as the original King of Balayage. Why did you decide on becoming a colour specialist? GT: I love doing both. You can only do so much with balayage but with hair colouring, there’s no limit as to what you can do.
“With hair colouring, there’s no limit�
22 / Concept Hair
CH: How important is education for you? GT: Knowledge and continuous education is key for anyone’s evolution.
CH: You seem to have a really close connection with your staff. What qualities do you look for in your team? GT: Most of my #mydentifiers started as #hairbesties, they followed me on most of my hair shows and I got to know them online and in person. Loyalty, honesty and someone you can rely on through thick and thin are the qualities I look for to be a #mydentifier.
CH: Tell us a bit about the #hairbestie community on social media. GT: #Hairbestie is what I call my followers. We are like a family – we share knowledge, expertise, experiences. We bounce back positive ideas to each other. We are an inclusive community that doesn’t tolerate online bullying.
CH: Why should young hairdressers learn to use creative colour? GT: It’s in demand, if a client comes in and asks for a hair colour that you can’t do, they will find a way to have it done elsewhere. That’s a lost opportunity. Creative colours can be wearable in everyday life. It’s more accepted in corporate, healthcare or other formal settings now.
CH: What inspired you to create the Mydentity Color line? What does it offer that other colour brands don’t? GT: The Mydentity Color line has a lot of unique hair colours that I formulated with my chemists in the lab. I wanted to create a colour line that fills the void in our industry. I created unique tones like Rose Gold, Silver Smoke and Dusty Lavender that have now become colour staples and made other companies follow suit. Mydentity will always have a pulse to what’s new and hot. It will set trends and inspire hairstylists to be creative and explore new things.
d “Knowledge an cation u d e s u o u n i t n co yone’s n a r o f y e k e h t is evolution”
CH: You’ve even branched out into music! Tell us a bit about this other side to you… GT: Making music is my passion, it truly makes me happy. Most of the songs I have written so far are in conjunction with Mydentity. I wrote a song for the launch of the Naked Collection Hair Color called Naked. My latest single SuperPower is for the Mydentity direct dye SuperPower. When people come to my hair shows, they remember the class and the music. So every time they hear the song, they remember the experience.
CH: What’s your best tip for young hairdressers? GT: Always be yourself. Because when you know who you are, you will have the courage to do anything you dream of.
CH: What’s one thing that you wish the wider world would understand about hairdressing? GT: It’s a fun industry. We’re creative, of course! Don’t take yourself too seriously.
CH: What’s the hardest thing about the industry? GT: Dealing with politics.
CH: What are you most proud of achieving? GT: Creating #mydentity and seeing it being loved by many people makes my heart soar.
Autumn 2019 \ Interview
CH: What’s your worst client story? GT: When a rich new client came in from another country and demanded to have her hair done for $10,000 without an appointment. I was doing my regular client’s hair at the time and she offered to leave so I could take the new client. I declined her offer and she got insulted - she claimed she flew in just to see me. I had to call building security and their personal security got involved. It was a mess and I made a point to them that money can’t buy everything.
Worst haircut you’ve ever had? When I was in another country and there was a language barrier
If you could cut anybody’s hair – alive or dead – who would it be? Kate Middleton
Favourite hair colour? Rose Gold
Who is the last person who phoned you? My husband
Instagram or YouTube? YouTube
Best dish you’ve ever eaten? Chicken Pho
Favourite city in the world? Los Angeles
What can’t you leave the house without? Phone
“Creative colours can be wearable in everyday life”
uy guy Tang
CH: Who’s the most remarkable client you’ve had? GT: Ita – she’s a client in her 70s and I have been colouring her hair for about eight years now since I moved out to Los Angeles from Tulsa, Oklahoma. I kept her as my client because she let me do whatever I want with her hair. She’s a sweetheart and my #hairbesties know about her because I did a YouTube video with her and I do live videos whenever I do her hair.
Autumn 2019 / Interview
Concept Hair / 23
Autumn 2019 \ How To
how to create
Cloud Nine’s The Messy Pony!
Is there anything better than a ponytail? Probably not. The universal pony sees us through our most boring of days, to our most exciting big nights out. Cloud Nine’s style ambassador James Earnshaw shows us how to create this super soft, fluffy powerhouse pony.
PREP Start by prepping your locks with Cloud Nine’s Magical Quick Dry Potion. This hair hero not only works to protect your hair against heat, but also reduces drying time by up to 50%.
STEP 1 Start by sectioning off the hair. Using The Touch Iron begin to curl your hair, leaving out the ends for a more textured look. Be sure to glide through these sections slightly quicker than you normally would to create loose waves full of texture.
The pioneering buttonless Touch Iron delivers instant heat for INSTANT STYLE. The innovative temperature control feature allows you to choose from two different temperatures - 165˚ and 195˚.
24 / Concept Hair
STEP 2 Once you have curled all the hair, leave to cool for a few minutes then take the Luxury Texture Comb and loosen off the wave.
Autumn 2019 / How To
When all the hair is combed out, brush it back spraying a texturizing hair spray into the root to create height and texture.
STEP 4 Take the hair back into a midheight pony and secure with an elastic. Taking a section from the ponytail, wrap around and cover the hair elastic.
FINISH To finish, add extra texture around the face using The Micro Iron to pinch sections of the hair to manipulate into place. Here you can also take framing sections and add smaller waves. Share your take on this look using
finished LOOK Whatever you do with it, this pony is â€œabout to be one of your new faves! â€? Concept Hair / 25
Autumn 2019 \ Salons
amie Hill, Swansea prides itself on offering the highest level of service, using cruelty-free, high-quality, organic products. All the team are trained in the latest hairdressing techniques and services, making Jamie Hill a truly innovative hair and beauty salon, which can deliver every client their desired look. The salon offers a welcoming, friendly atmosphere in an environment that reflects the creativity of owner Jamie and the team. All the furniture is reclaimed, antique or upcycled, with Jamie keen to make the salon as green and sustainable as possible. One of the most notable features is the reception desk, made from the back of an old Mini.
The days when all the coolest or most prestigious salons were based in the capital are long gone. Superstar salons are established across the UK.
his popular salon in the heart of Kingstonupon-Thames is owned by multi award-winning hairdresser Robert Masciave. Metropolis is an official Revlon Professional colour salon, offering a full range of services and treatments, all overseen by a highly skilled team. Ensuring clients can care for their hair at home, the salon also provides an extensive array of retail brands, including Revlon Professional, and Orofluido, along with tools from ghd and BaByliss. Metropolis is also an extensions specialist salon, using extensions supplied by Loxbox to achieve incredible results.
Kingston, Surrey 26 / Concept Hair
Autumn 2019 / Salons
Harris & Fox
arris & Fox, Aberdeen offers its diverse clientele a relaxing haven in which to enjoy the salon’s extensive range of services and treatments. The salon is a cool home-from-home, with a downstairs space featuring sofas and bookshelves - the perfect environment for clients to relax in while they wait for colour to develop. All the salon’s mirrors and reception desk are hand-made, all bespoke creations for Harris & Fox, while a polished concrete wall gives the main cutting area an industrial feel, without detracting from the overall welcoming atmosphere. More than 60 pot plants and a beautiful aquarium also add to the sense of well-being and relaxation.
he Tristan Eves salon brings Mayfair-quality hairdressing to the historic town of Petworth. Founder Tristan has worked for some of the capital’s most prestigious salons and has surrounded himself with a team of equally talented and experienced individuals. Tristan Eves delivers precision cutting, stunning natural colour results and blow-out blow-dries in a beautiful salon environment. Exceptional client care is at the heart of the Tristan Eves brand, with every client guaranteed to be immersed in luxury for their entire visit.
ndrew Jose opened his eponymous salon in 1988, bringing to the business a wealth of experience, including styling some of the world’s biggest celebrities. Based in a stunning Art Deco property on the corner of Charlotte Street, the location offers a bright and relaxing atmosphere in which clients can enjoy the five-star service offered by Andrew and his talented team. Among the treatments available at Andrew Jose is The Hairtial, a targeted treatment designed to get to the core of any scalp issues. The salon also specialises in extensions and Afro hair.
Want to show off your Superstar Salon? Get in touch by emailing firstname.lastname@example.org
Autumn 2019 \ Products
new indola #COLORBLASTER IS HERE! Love the original #colorblaster pigmented colour conditioners? Great news – Indola has just launched three more! Introducing the newest shades to its #colorblaster line-up: Nashville, Sutro and Aden!
Social media savvy clients Named after Instagram filters that bring out different tones, #colorblaster is the perfect go-to for social media savvy clients looking for ever-wearable styles and the latest inspiration. Perfect for in-salon and at-home use, they promise to enhance and refresh colour and increase condition, with each application lasting up to 20 washes. For bold pops of colour or pastel hues, all shades work best on pre-lightened hair.
The new shades! Aden provides colour refresh or enhancement for violet tones. Recommended for medium brown to dark blonde. Sutro is perfect for enhancing cool brown tones and is
recommended for dark brown to dark blonde hair. Nashville gives a new lease of life to copper tones while perfectly conditioning. Ideal for dark blonde to light blonde shades. Indola’s global ambassador and go-to colour guy, Paddy McDougall, said: “I used the new Aden shade for our campaign look. The colour technique and selection was seamless, laminated blending of tones and depths along the length of the hair, which is so important in translating the feminine, luxe element of the Delicate Daydream trend.”
The full list of #colorblasters Sutro, Nashville and Aden join the #colorblaster line-up of Willow (pink), Clarendon (blue), Valencia (mint-green), Lark (silver-grey), Sierra (chocolate brown), Mayfair (red), Crema (gold-blond) and Juno (neutraliser) - #colorblaster is on trend every time. For further information on Indola visit www.indola.com or search for @IndolaUK on Instagram. Available in wholesalers from July with a list price of £11.35 each (the recommended wholesale selling price is £7.75 each)
“I’m loving the new #colorblasters in violet (Aden), cool brown (Sutro) and copper (Nashville)," he continued. “They deliver exceptional condition and vibrant, lasting hits of colour, every time.”
and selection “The colouristechnique seamless”
competition Indola is giving away a set of the new #colorblasters. All you have to do is fill in the missing word: The names of the three new #colorblasters are Nashville, Sutro and _______________! Send your answer to: email@example.com 28 / Concept Hair
Autumn 2019 / Products The team at Concept Hair took YorkTest’s Food&DrinkScan test, which analyses your IgG reactions to food and drink ingredients, to see how it works for ourselves.
Testing for intolerances with YorkTest
nyone who has suffered from a food intolerance knows the symptoms can be uncomfortable, painful or even a bit embarrassing. It’s even more difficult to deal with if you can’t work out exactly what it is that your body is reacting to. YorkTest Laboratories makes food and drink intolerance tests that you can take at home, giving you accurate results within a couple of weeks. We caught up with YorkTest’s experts to find out more.
What is a food intolerance? A food intolerance is difficulty digesting certain foods and having an unpleasant physical reaction to them. The most common symptoms are bloating and stomach pains, which usually come on a few hours after eating.
What happens then? When you have received your results and are ready, you can book an appointment with one of our qualified nutritional therapists. This will provide you with support and knowledge to assist you in your new diet.
Geordie Shore star Holly Hagan took an intolerance test as she was suffering from skin problems including rashes on her face and chest. After the results showed an intolerance to eggs, cow’s milk and peanuts, Holly cut these out of her diet and says her skin has cleared up completely.
“It was very easy to do the test. The results are really helpful because I suffer from Crohn’s disease, it was really good to get a list of foods that may cause a reaction without resorting to trial and error – as a result, I’ve been able to re-evaluate my diet.” Patrick “I was apprehensive before doing the test but the instructions were really clear and actually it was a very simple process. The results are interesting because they indicated that I have an intolerance to cow’s milk – I’m definitely going to see how I feel after cutting that out.” Emily “I was quite confident before I took the test that I wouldn't have any intolerances, so I was surprised to find I am intolerant to eggs and cow's milk. Whether I'm able to cut these out of my diet is another matter, but it's definitely good to know and worth considering. The sheet detailing your results is in a really clear traffic lightstyle table, so you can see any issues easily.” Tom
How do you test for food intolerance? Our test kit contains all you need to take a small blood sample in the comfort of your own home. Return your sample in the pre-paid envelope provided to our York laboratories. Our experts will then analyse for reactions to 208 ingredients. Your confidential results and support materials will be posted to you within 10 days.
For more information visit www.yorktest.com Concept Hair / 29
COULD YOU BE CONCEPT HAIR’S
APPRENTICE OF THE The Concept Hair Hairdressing & Barbering Apprentice of the Month award celebrates students and apprentices who are passionate about the future of the hairdressing & barbering industry, going above and beyond in their apprenticeships to set the standards of the industry. Employers and lecturers can nominate an apprentice by sending us an email or direct message with their nominee’s details.
Join our latest set of winners and feature on this page in the next issue! APRIL: WINN
R OF A PA I WON ISSORS SC F R O M DS!
AN WON O OSM E! L BUND
S C IS S
ER! JULY: WINNER!
A WON O JOIC E! L D BUN
RAY ELLA GLO NS CHAIR SA
UKE ALLEN HARVEHAYRVLEY LUKE
A WON HTS IG S U N L YA G E A BAL X! B A L AY
E V ES NICHOLANADSHAGIRREXECELLENCE
THE AWARD IS NOW JUDGED BY LET LEW! Send to: firstname.lastname@example.org | For more information on how to enter visit:
Autumn 2019 / Haircutting
The skills of haircutting
Jamie Williams is a Junior Council member of The Hair and Barber Council and a stylist. Jamie shares with us his tips on haircutting.
s, the c i s a the b yster! e v a you h is your o e c n O orld w g n i cutt
Why do you love haircutting? Cutting hair has the power to change someone’s entire look. Working with their facial features and characteristics, you can create something totally unique for them. The possibilities you have with a comb and a pair of scissors are endless.
Why is it important to learn the basics of haircutting? You can’t build a solid house without foundations, and it’s the same principle for building shapes, techniques and the designs for haircutting. They say rules are made to be broken, but with haircutting you need to learn the rules. Once you’ve mastered these, you can then start to break them. Once you have the basics, the world is your oyster!
What tips would you give someone learning haircutting skills?
HOT TIPs build up your own style learn from your mistakes don't rush the process Don't become complacent
The best way to learn haircutting is finding someone who inspires you and master their way of working. This could be an educator, a training provider, or anyone. Look and watch what lots of different people are doing as everyone cuts in their own way. Find your vision and who inspires you. Ultimately, it’s all about practice, practice, practice. Mastery in the skill takes determination, dedication and drive and you can’t rush this part of your training. Even when you think you can do it, there is still so much to learn. To find out more about The Hair & Barber Council, check out www.haircouncil.org.uk
Concept Hair / 31
Autumn 2019 \ How To
how to create
From Pivot Point LAB, a bespoke VTCT learning resource, this Short Graduated Cut creates closeness in the nape while maintaining longer lengths towards the front.
1 This graphic shows the length progression from the shorter exterior to the longer interior. This allows lengths to stack up on one another to create the graduated texture.
This diagram indicates that diagonalforward partings will be used to cut this style. Note that this entire style will be cut from a centre parting.
Section the head with a centre parting that extends from the forehead to the nape.
2 Take a diagonal-forward parting at either side of the nape and begin cutting one side. Position your fingers and cut parallel to the diagonalforward parting.
32 / Concept Hair
3 Then cut the other side. This will now serve as a guideline until the top of the head is reached.
4 Take the next diagonal-forward partings parallel to the first and begin cutting one side. The amount of elevation will determine the amount of graduation you achieve. For this cut use approximately 30 degrees of elevation and position your fingers parallel to the section.
Autumn 2019 / How To
Use the same technique to cut the other side. Cut one side and then the other to maintain symmetry in the style.
Continue working upwards, subdividing partings for control. Cut each parting from the centre towards the hairline. Alternate sides to maintain balance. It is essential that combing and elevation are consistent throughout.
Continue taking diagonal sections and directing the hair back, using the previously cut parting as a guide. Be aware of tension over the ear to maintain the line.
At the recession area, comb and elevate sections to the guideline. Continue to take parallel sections and cut along the diagonal-forward line.
After blow drying, comb the nape hair in its natural fall. Use the tips of the scissors to refine the outline.
When you reach the top of the ear, extend the diagonal-forward partings from the back through the front.
The finished look shows the Short Graduated Form. Courtesy of Pivot Point International, Inc ÂŠ
Continue taking diagonal sections until you reach the parting. Ensure the angle of your fingers remains parallel to the cutting line. Maintain even tension throughout the cut, continually checking for balance and symmetry.
RPORATION HAS O C R E P IP L C L H WA E O CREATING TH T F L E S IT D E T A DEDIC G EQUIPMENT & BEST BARBERIN ION E BEST EDUCAT DELIVERING TH IN THE WORLD.
EDUCATION WITH WAHL WHEN LEO WAHL INVENTED THE FIRST ELECTRIC HAIR CLIPPER IN 1919, HE DIDN’T JUST REVOLUTIONISE AN INDUSTRY.
HE CREATED ONE. What started as one man’s brilliant, innovative idea is now the worldwide standard for barbers and hairdressers, with over 90% of UK Barbers choosing Wahl.
MEN’S METHOD If you want to take your education to the next level, why not look at joining the Wahl Men’s Method Programme? Taught by leading industry creatives, giving you the edge when you’re ready to find employment.
Men’s Method Educators, Frank Rimer, Joth Davis & Alan Beak
To find out more, speak to your college lecturer so we can visit you and tell you everything you need to know!
“THE WAHL MEN’S METHOD PROGRAMME WOULD GIVE ME THE CONFIDENCE TO EMPLOY A NEWLY QUALIFIED BARBER,KNOWING THAT THEY HAVE RECEIVED THE HIGHEST STANDARD OF EDUCATION.” ANDREW CANNON - Managing Director of Ruffians Barbers
THE ESSENTIAL WAHL TOOL KIT Education doesn’t end in the classroom, it’s important to know your tools and understand which one is right for the job.
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Autumn 2019 \ Interview
Jo Martin runs her own consultancy for hair brands She is a former chairman of the Fellowship for British Hairdressing She is the current education director for BaByliss PRO
My career far â€œexceeded any
goals I had when I started off
o Martin is a former chairman of the Fellowship for British Hairdressing and in 2004 became the first hairdresser to join ghd, where she worked for more than 11 years. We caught up with her to find out how her career took her down a different path than she expected when she started out.
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Autumn 2019 / Interview Concept Hair: Great to speak to you, Jo! Please tell us a bit about yourself. Jo Martin: I have been in the industry for over 30 years, which makes me feel so old! I’ve been on quite a journey. It’s been very exciting. CH: How did you get into the hair industry? JM: From when I was a teenager, I loved hair. I used to cut and colour at school - I had a few disasters! When I left school at 16, my parents wanted me to go to college and do my A-Levels, but I didn’t want to. I found an apprenticeship and never looked back. I ended up having my own salon in my early 20s. I had it for about four-anda-half years and I absolutely loved it. I used to constantly educate myself and spent a lot of time at the Wella Studios in Manchester until I changed the direction of my career and became a technical consultant for Schwarzkopf, which I did for six years. This role completely opened my eyes and took my career on an exciting journey. CH: How did you get into ghd? JM: I was taken on as UK education manager – they only had ten people working for them. My job was to work with UK distributors and build an education programme for them for stylists. I was quickly whipped out of the UK and sent across Europe, Australia and the US to launch the brand. That was a whirlwind! From being a hairdresser in a salon to doing my own salon, going into education to developing a global education, team and programme for one of the most iconic brands was something I never really in my wildest dreams thought I would be part of. Hairdressing is such an amazing industry to be in that opens up so many opportunities for stylists. If you put 10 people in a room, everybody’s journeys would be very different.
CH: What do you do now? JM: My consultancy business is offering my creative services and experiences to global industry businesses: building education programmes, managing events and providing creative direction to the brand. I'm currently working with BaByliss PRO as UK education director. CH: How did you become chairman of the Fellowship for British Hairdressing? JM: When I left ghd I wanted to give something back to the industry and joined as a council member. When the role of chairman became available I put myself forward and presented my ideas to the council. Surprisingly I was elected and jumped straight into the role. It was an incredible two years, challenging but rewarding at the same time. One of my biggest initiatives was the live lounge project, which has been incredibly successful. CH: Do you still cut and style hair? JM: I still do a lot of hair. For the past few years I’ve taken on more of a creative direction role with photographic work for brands, but I’m still very much hands-on, especially with styling. Currently I’m building styling courses and seminars which I deliver to the brand trainers. CH: Has your career followed the path you wanted when you started out? JM: It’s far exceeded any goals I had when I started at 16. I didn’t realise the opportunities and different paths you can take as a career. Education is key for success, you never stop learning new skills. Have good social skills, be a great listener and clearly explain what you are doing. Create your own destination.
Quickfire Questions: If you could live in any era, which would you choose? The late 50s, early 60s. Things changed so much. Beach holiday or city break? Beach, definitely. What would your spirit animal be? A dog – they are very loyal, trustworthy, playful and reliable, and they persevere – like me! What’s your favourite hairstyle? My favourite iconic hairstyle is Audrey Hepburn. If you could sing a duet with anyone, who would you choose? Robbie Williams. Favourite film of all time? Bridget Jones’ Diary. What is your favourite accent? French – it’s so soft and romantic!
CH: What is your favourite thing about the industry? JM: It’s constantly evolving, the creativity, the passion people have about the industry. That’s infectious.
“Education is key for success” Concept Hair / 37
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Autumn 2019 \ Look Book
CLASH Hair by: Mark Leeson @ Mark Leeson Make-up by: Lans Nguyen-Grealis Styling by: M&R Photography by: Richard Miles Products: Revlon Professional
Find all the latest and greatest #hairinspo at concepthairmag.co.uk/inspiration
40 / Concept Hair
Autumn 2019 \ Look Book
OSMO GENERATION NOW â€œWith the age of social media and interchanging hairstyles, the new OSMO Generation Now collection taps into the desires of the consumer with its fresh new look that represents the diversity of hair textures, colours and styles.â€? Hair by: OSMO Creative Team Make-up by: Paula Maxwell Styling by: Joey Bevan Photography by: Tony Le-Britton
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Autumn 2019 / Look Book
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Autumn 2019 / Look Book
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FELLOWSHIP COLOUR PROJECT COLLECTION Hair by: The Fellowship for British Hairdressing Colour Project 2019 Team leader: Paul Dennison @ Ken Picton Art direction by: Robert Eaton @ Russell Eaton Make-up by: Lucy Flower Styling by: Stacey Jane Shaw @ Russell Eaton Photography by: Richard Miles
48 / Concept Hair
Concept Hair / 49
Autumn 2019 \ Look Book
MENâ€™S HAIR Hair, make-up and styling by: Diana Carson @ Rainbow Room International Photography by: Stuart Simpson
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JUSTIN HARRIS PHOTOGRAPHY
Fashion ~Beaut y ~Hair Based in Swansea with fully equipped professional photographic studio. Available throughout the UK & worldwide. Extensive experience shooting fashion & hair. Get in touch NOW to bring your images to the next level!
www.justinharrisphotography.co.uk 07971 487799 01792 898544
Autumn 2019 \ How To
Great style for a grown out fade and beard
Inspired by BBA Hall of Fame competition Longer top and fringe creates fullness and volume Tapered back & sides, “club cutting” on top
Clipper over comb can also be used.
54 / Concept Hair
Creating perimeter to the back
Create the outline shape around the ear.
Working with Clipper Guards
Working sides with Clippers
Continuing outline to the back
Cut the sections using a scissor over comb technique at a 45˚ degree angle.
Taper the outline using clipper over comb.
Continue around the perimeter using overlapping panels.
Setting the outline with clippers
The guide for the graduation around the perimeter should be two fingers’ depth.
Outlining around the ear
Building the perimeter
Setting up the perimeter
Groomed Facial Hair
Guards can also be used.
Taper the outline using clipper over comb.
Use a vent brush to lift and smooth the hair towards the back.
To find out more about education and training resources email Educationteam@britishbarbers.com
Cross check throughout the top to check for balance.
Use a small amount of BBA Finishing Pomade.
Adding texture to the Top
Cross checking the Top
Club Cutting the top
Apply a small amount of BBA Defining Gel through damp hair using your palms and fingertips.
Taking horizontal sections, â€œclub cutâ€? to length and continue through all top sections.
To remove bulk or add texture, point cut with scissors or use a razor.
Distribute the BBA Finishing Pomade throughout the hair using the palms and fingertips.
Finishing with Pomade
Prepping the hair for styling
Blend the beard area in line with the hair length.
Finishing with Pomade
Blow drying for style
Blending the beard with clippers
Autumn 2019 / How To
Concept Hair / 55
Autumn 2019 \ Barbering
mikey pearson A new Manifesto on Men’s Grooming
IKEY PEARSON IS THE COOWNER OF MANIFESTO, A MALE GROOMING BRAND WITH SALONS IN TWO OF LONDON’S MOST THRIVING DISTRICTS, HOLBORN AND KING’S CROSS. Mikey’s career started at Sassoon. Learning from the best the industry has to offer, Mikey established all the skills that would make him an excellent salon stylist, soon joining Sassoon full-time. He went on to progressive salon group Radio London, owned by the visionary Corrado Tevere. It was at Radio London that Mikey developed a real passion for men’s hairdressing. “I had always loved cutting men’s hair. I enjoy the need for precision and the attention to detail needed for shorter hair,” says Mikey. Specialising in men’s hair led to Mikey establishing a clientele of high-profile male celebrities. “I decided to leave Radio London and became a freelance male grooming specialist,” says Mikey. “I looked after a number of male celebrities, while continuing to do session work in the fashion world.”
56 / Concept Hair
The idea for the male grooming salon was based on the ethos cut technically, style naturally Its reputation is based on its fashion-led take on men’s hairdressing
“I HAD ALWAYS LOVED CUTTING MEN’S HAIR”
Mikey decided to use all his experience to start his own business. “I wanted to open a men’s hair salon, moving away from a stereotypical barber shop and making it more of a hair salon vibe specialising in scissor and clipper cuts with a much softer look. Myself, Corrado and Rino (head of education) came up with the philosophy ‘cut technically, style naturally’ together in the first six months of opening. This was created
by our normal approach to hair and our background in the industry. All three of us bring something different to the table to create the Manifesto ethos.” The salon has gained coverage in leading newspapers and magazines, including The New York Times and Time Out, heralding Manifesto as a new force in male grooming.
“THE SALON HAS GAINED COVERAGE IN LEADING MAGAZINES”
g.e.betterton What’s in a scissor?
“CHOOSING A HIGHER GRADE STAINLESS STEEL WILL MEAN THE SCISSORS HAVE A LONGER LIFE SPAN”
VER WONDERED WHY ONE SCISSOR COSTS SO MUCH MORE THAN ANOTHER ONE, EVEN THOUGH THEY LOOK IDENTICAL? IT ALL COMES DOWN TO WHAT MATERIAL IT IS MADE FROM AND THE MANUFACTURING PROCESS.
Most lower-end and middle-priced scissors are made from stainless steel, a hard-wearing material which is heated to create its hardness, and the blade edge will be machine produced. There are many different qualities and grades of steel used in the production of scissors. Japanese steel is regarded as being of the highest quality, and although many scissors are made from Japanese steel, the finest shears are also made in Japan. How to identify quality Scissors made from higher grade stainless steel will be more durable
and the blade edge will stay sharper for longer, giving the scissor a longer life span. When purchasing a high-end scissor you should expect high-grade materials, and the manufacturing process to involve the blade edge being created by hand. Joewell uses either a Supreme stainless alloy or cobalt base alloy in the manufacture of its scissors. Cobalt-based alloy is a mixture of tungsten, chrome and carbon. It does not require heat treatment as the material already has hardness. Compared to cobalt, stainless alloy
has a greater hardness, but cobalt has a higher wear resistance, giving a scissor made from cobalt a longer life. You can check that a scissor is made from cobalt, as cobalt is not magnetic. Other characteristics include chemical resistance, which means the blade will not tarnish when put in a cleaning agent, and rust resistance.
T0P TIP You can check that a scissor is made from cobalt, as cobalt is not magnetic
+ + +
COBALT-based alloy is not magnetic! Concept Hair / 57
Autumn 2019 \ Barbering
PRIME LOCATION barbershop in the world’s biggest Primark
BY TOM TRACEY
“OUR VENTURE WITH PRIMARK STARTED AS A CONVERSATION OVER A COFFEE”
OT ALL EXCITING NEW LAUNCHES HAPPEN IN THE CAPITAL. A UNIQUE COLLABORATION BETWEEN RETAIL BRAND PRIMARK AND SESSION STYLIST JOE MILLS WAS BORN IN BIRMINGHAM THIS YEAR – MILLS X PRIMARK. Breaking new ground Birmingham’s Primark is the largest fashion retail store in the world, covering more than 160,000 square feet across five floors. It offers a Disney-themed café, a beauty studio – and a barbershop. “Our venture with Primark started as a conversation over a coffee. I fleshed out how it could work for us and what it could look and feel like,” says Joe, the man behind the brand.
Simplicity is key “It’s a unisex barbershop which welcomes all ages and genders – simple, with a focus on quality customer service,” explains lead barber Oli. “We want to make sure they enjoy the whole appointment, with little details like hot towels which other barbers may not pick up on.” The shop’s motto is ‘Honest, Polished, Authentic’. It takes aspects from both high-end and classic shops – 30 per cent of its customer base come through appointments, while the rest are walk-ins. “We want it to be really easy to come in, grab a coffee, get a haircut, have a chat with your barber and walk out,” says Oli. Oli believes more and more barbershops will go into partnerships with bigger companies: “You can get onto the high street without paying ridiculous prices, and benefit from Primark’s footfall.”
Oli’s most common cuts 1. Alex Bowen (Love Island) 2. Tom Hardy’s buzz cut 3. Crop cut – French crop/ skin fade
High street trends Oli says short styles are still very popular in the Midlands, but longer hair is coming into fashion in London. “The Beatles are coming back in, or 80s rocker haircuts, which are very cool – it’s a lot of scissorwork, which I enjoy. Birmingham has diversity but everyone loves short haircuts – it keeps my clippers warm!”
Autumn 2019 / Business Skills
unmissable hair event
Join L’Oréal Professionnel and two times winner of British Hairdresser of the Year Sally Brooks, for an exclusive and inspiring hair event.
ally will be on hand to answer your questions in a special Q&A session, after watching her documentary, ‘Journey To My Destination’. Sally offers her own unique insight into what it takes to get to the very top and explains why hairdressing isn’t a ‘second-best’ career; that it’s actually a career choice full of opportunities and with the ability to grow and change with you throughout your life. Alongside videographer Gabriel Maciuca, also a barber, Sally will take you through the potential highlights of this exciting profession and asks big names in the industry to tell their stories too.
limited availabil ity THERE WILL BE TWO SPECIAL SCREENINGS 11am Friday 8th November L’Oréal Leeds Academy, 84 Albion St, Leeds, LS1 6AG
11am Friday 22nd November L’Oréal London Academy, 255 Hammersmith Road, London, W6 8AZ Grab your FREE tickets now! There is limited availability so email email@example.com or call 0121 767 1907 to book your space. The event will be starting at 11am. Availability is limited to 150 spaces in Leeds and 150 spaces in London and may change without notice. Booking re. Any individuals under 16 years of age must be accompanied by an adult to attend the Sally Brooks Hair Event 2019. Tickets will be allocated on a first come first served basis. See concepthairmag.co.uk/terms for full terms and conditions. Promoter: L’Oréal Professionnel.
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Autumn 2019 \ Business Skills
Hairdressing is an industry that offers a range of exciting opportunities. Here are some of the ways you can specialise and develop your skills to progress your career.
The Mobile Hairdresser
Ellen K Bridger A s a mobile hairdresser, Ellen K Bridger looks after all her clients at their homes, travelling several miles during the course of a day, taking her expertise to the client rather than the client coming to her. Ellen honed her skills as a salon hairdresser until the age of 24, but after the birth of her first daughter she decided the life of a mobile hairdresser would be much easier and more flexible, enabling her to work around the demands of being a new mother. “My days are so varied,” says Ellen. “I can sometimes finish at lunchtime, while other days I can be working late into the evening, but it means that I can work around my two children, which is important to me. I am not restricted by the working hours of a salon, which also means I can sit and chat to my clients while their colour is processing rather than rushing off to look after someone else.”
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The freelance hairdresser and session stylist
Ashleigh Hodges “My work as a freelance hairdresser is so varied,” says Ashleigh. “One week I’m on photoshoots at the beach, the next I’m travelling the world with brands and the next can be filled with catching up with admin and looking after clients.” Ashleigh’s job has seen her work on TV shows such as The Voice, music videos and on major fashion shows for some of the world’s leading designers. “I enjoy every aspect of my job,” says Ashleigh. “The biggest challenge is juggling it all, and having to re-pack my kitbag every night.” Ashleigh’s advice to anyone wanting to follow in her footsteps is to focus on their training. “Don’t rush to be the next big thing, you have your whole career ahead of you.”
Simone T homas Simone Thomas is the owner of an eponymous salon and hair loss clinic in Westbourne. Specialising in hair loss and nutrition, she also runs a specialist hair loss clinic in London’s prestigious Harley Street. Trichology is a branch of dermatology that deals with the scientific study of hair and scalp, and the job of a trichologist is to diagnose and treat hair and scalp disorders and hair loss. Simone studied for a number of years to gain her nutrition and trichology qualification. Her knowledge and personal experience with hair loss as well as nutrition brings her own unique approach to the job. “Changing people’s lives is the most worthwhile role anyone can have,” says Simone. “We see many people going through all sorts of illnesses and issues which affect their hair and scalp. To be able to help and treat them and give them confidence is so rewarding.”
Autumn 2019 / Business Skills
everything “youLearn can and push yourself daily”
The Extensions Specialist
Having started as a Saturday boy as a 14-year-old, Chris Abbott now runs a chain of four salons in Derbyshire, including three barbershops trading as Abbott & Co. Chris still regularly works behind a barber chair, while also helping develop the business as a whole.
Ceri Cushen is creative director at award-winning salon Metropolis in Kingston upon Thames. She is also the salon’s resident extensions specialist. She has honed her extensionist skills over the past 20 years, originally training with monofibre hair and more recently with human hair extensions.
Chris learned his trade working in barbershops while also studying at college. He loved the atmosphere of a barbershop. “I loved the connections I made with people and I enjoyed being good at something.”
“It’s important to learn all the methods of application so you can understand which one will work most effectively for each individual,” says Ceri. “I love the total transformation that extensions can achieve and the versatility they offer the client. Being able to offer a solution when a client is suffering from hair loss is particularly rewarding.”
Chris’s advice to anyone wanting to make a career as a barber is to focus on learning the techniques. “Barbering is a craft and, like all crafts, it takes time and patience to master. Don’t try and cut corners and find a quick fix. Learn everything you can and push yourself daily.”
Ceri’s advice to anyone looking to specialise in extensions is to learn to colour match before anything else. “Colour matching and blending is key for any extensionist,” says Ceri.
Sharon Cox Sharon Cox is international education director for leading salon group Sanrizz. She became a full-time hairdressing educator after working as a salon hairdresser for 10 years. “I loved developing the young generation and sharing the knowledge I had gained on the salon floor,” says Sharon. After seeing the Sanrizz team present at an event, Sharon knew she wanted to join them. “I knew I wanted to be part of a company that focused on education both nationally and internationally. This excited me. I wanted to travel the world.” In her role as international education director, Sharon plans and prepares educational courses for the Sanrizz Academy. Every six weeks she takes part in international shows, presenting new collections to inspire and educate hairdressers from Europe and Asia.
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Autumn 2019 \ Business Skills
Instagram like a boss
There are countless benefits to using social media to promote yourself and your brand. Above all, it’s a free marketing tool: 83% of Instagram’s one billion monthly users discover products and services (like yours) on this platform.
Our digital editor Tom Tracey went along to Insta-star Sophia Hilton’s Not Another Social Media Course in Glasgow to learn how you can benefit from its massive popularity.
Get your bio right Introduce who you are and what you do in your bio. Add your location and a web link (or link to your Facebook page) so that people can find you. Make sure your Instagram handle is one you’ll be happy with further down the line.
Focus on what you’re good at If you are an expert on balayage, or customer-service, focus on that. Make sure your posts relate to this topic. Decide who you are speaking to - other hairdressers or clients? Sophia says: “Find the angle and keep going with it.”
Theme your feed Use a style guide - the same fonts, colours, backgrounds, filters etc., to give your feed a consistent aesthetic. Alternate two kinds of photos, e.g. graphics and hair photos, to create a chequerboard look on your page. 62 / Concept Hair
Set up your account for business This will allow you to see your analytics - and find out what kind of posts are working well. Hit the three horizontal bars in the top right, go to Settings, then Account, then scroll down until you hit Switch to Professional account.
Keep the algorithm happy Post every day, engage with others, spend time on Instagram. These, paired with how recently you posted, your relationship with other users and their interests, will affect how much engagement you get.
Hashtags You can use up to 30 per post use three or four to describe the photo, and use location-specific hashtags e.g. #lincolnhairsalon. Use a mix of well-used hashtags and more niche ones (you can see how popular they are by clicking on them).
TOP TIPS FOR CREATING GREAT CONTENT
1 2 3 4 5 6
Make sure your camera lens is clean! If you have an iPhone, use ‘Square’ mode on the camera.
Use a ring light or daylight to get the best lighting. Take the client’s gown off and use a clean background.
Take a photo and check it before your client leaves. If you have time, take a video too.
Autumn 2019 / Exercises
vtct exercises Vocational Training Charitable Trust is a specialist awarding organisation offering vocational and technical qualifications in a range of service sectors. These exercises have been created to test your technical knowledge on cutting, colouring and styling. The exercises have been created in conjunction with Pivot Point®. VTCT has partnered with Pivot Point to provide you with a new online learning platform called LAB®. LAB helps you develop your skills and knowledge through an easy-to-use digital interface. It is designed to help you stretch and deepen your understanding through interactive quizzes, videos and more. Ask your training provider if they’re using LAB, and get started today!
If you would like to know more about how one of VTCT’s courses could help further your career, check out the website: www.vtct.org.uk
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Autumn 2019 \ Exercises
BUSINESS SKILLS Answer the following True or False questions.
Encouraging clients to recommend the salon to friends is an effective way of gaining new clients.
The success of the team is reliant on everyone understanding each Q2 other's roles and responsibilities.
Elements needed to provide a positive salon ambience include Q3 supplying refreshments, up-to-date magazines and a secure place for client belongings.
S.M.A.R.T. stands for goals which are: specific, measurable, acceptable, Q4 realistic and timely.
Environmental guidelines to running a eco-friendly salon include Q5 recycling, waste disposal, air ventilation and lighting.
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Autumn 2019 / Exercises
PARTY LOOK Answer the following True or False questions. ANSWER
Q1 Hair preparation is key, when planning a long, hair up style for a party. TRUE
Heat styling techniques are suitable for styling any hair additions Q2 used within a hair design.
Using heated rollers to set ponytails in the hair will create a look with Q3 straight roots and curls through the mid-lengths and ends.
Important points to consider when planning a party look are: the clientâ€™s Q4 outfit and the products to be used.
When removing backbrushing, the hair should Q5 be brushed or combed from the roots to the ends, to prevent damage to the cuticle. ANSWER
Self padding refers to backcombing a proportion Q6 of the clientâ€™s hair and placing it within a hairnet to create a padded shape. ANSWER
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Autumn 2019 \ Exercises
BARBERING Complete the following multiple choice questions by selecting one answer. Which one of the following cutting Q1 techniques will blend weight and soften the finish? a
A client requests textured square layers Q2 with high graduation. Approximately Ans. where will the graduation finish? a
In the nape
Which one of the following tools is designed to remove bulk, not length?
When cutting uniform layers, the guideline should remain…
At the crown
At the temples
Below the occipital bone
Which one of the following elevation Q3 angles is used to create a short graduated form? a
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Autumn 2019 / Exercises
CUTTING Complete the following multiple choice questions by selecting one answer. Q1
When cutting a uniform layer look, the hair is held at what angle?
Which one of the following describes the effect of disconnection?
A cut with textured layers
A cut with layers that do not blend
Graduation that creates weight in the nape area
Graduation that smoothly blends into the skin
Which one of the following is the most Q2 important reason to keep hair damp throughout the cutting process? a
To look professional
Which one of the following cutting Q5 techniques could be used to reduce bulk Ans. when cutting a short graduated form? a
Scissor over comb
To maintain even tension
To see the growth patterns
To see the shape being created
When cutting a long graduated form, Q3 the use of a wide tooth comb should be considered when the hair is… a
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Autumn 2019 \ Exercises
HEALTH AND SAFETY Complete the following multiple choice questions by selecting one answer. Which one of the following best Q1 describes an employee's responsibility Ans. under the Health and Safety at Work Act?
Which one of the following is the most Q4 suitable fire fighting equipment for an electrical fire?
Keep client records secure
Attend safety training sessions
Act responsibly and not endanger themselves or others
Make sure that hair tests are completed, as part of every consultation
Carbon dioxide extinguisher
Which one of the following is an Q2 employer's responsibility under Personal Ans. Protective Equipment Regulations? a
Report accidents and injuries to the HSE
Provide gowns and towels for clients
Make sure all equipment is safe for use
Provide gloves and aprons for staff
Q3 Which of the following are hazards?
Water on the floor and an open door
An obstruction and product spillage
Damaged hair dryer and secure cabinet
Hair on the floor and open windows
Which one of the following is an employee's responsibility under Control Q5 Ans. of Substances Hazardous to Health Regulations? a
Report all accidents in the workplace
Check the temperature of equipment before use
Follow safety instructions when using equipment
Know how to store, use, handle and dispose of substances
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Autumn 2019 / Exercises
SHAMPOO Complete the following multiple choice questions by selecting one answer. To prevent hair damage, what is the Q1 correct procedure for disentangling wet hair?
Which one of the following describes petrissage massage technique?
Start at the crown, working from roots to ends using a wide tooth comb
Deep kneading movement
Start at the crown, working from ends to roots using a brittle brush
Rubbing and vibrating movement
Start at the nape, working from ends to roots using a wide tooth comb
Circular movements, using finger tips
Tapping movement, applied with the fingers
Start at the nape, working from roots to ends using a bristle brush
Which one of the following shampoo ingredients will benefit damaged hair?
Which one of the following is not a reason for using a clarifying shampoo?
When the hair is dirty
When the hair has product build-up
When preparing the hair for a chemical service
When shampooing the hair following a colour service
Which one of the following best Q5 describes the effect of effleurage massage technique? a
Used to cleanse the hair and scalp
Stimulates and invigorates the scalp
Stimulates muscles, nerves and glands
Helps distribute products and relax the client
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Win the ultimate hair prize with RUSH Hair
Prize includes one-day course at the RUSH Academy two RUSH Live Tickets one ghd iron
All you need to do is answer the following question: How many years has RUSH Hair been around for? A. 15 years B. 25 years C. 30 years
£350 Multi-award-winning salon group RUSH Hair has been committed to the UK hairdressing industry for the past 25 years and now has over 90 salons across England. RUSH salons can be found on high streets up and down the UK and its stylists continually push the boundaries of the craft through their incredible photographic collections and stage work. With the annual RUSH Live show taking place at this year’s Salon International on Monday 7th October, we have partnered up with RUSH to provide one lucky winner with the chance to win the ultimate hair prize.
Email your answer to firstname.lastname@example.org and put ‘RUSH Competition’ in the subject line. We’ll pick the winner at random and notify them via email. • Prize cannot be sold or exchanged for monetary value • Available to readers aged 16 and over • Course must be booked within 12 months of winning • RUSH Academy requires 30 days notice when booking course • Winners must be available for photography
Further terms and conditions at concepthairmag.co.uk/terms
DISCOVER THE NEW TRANSLUCENT
LUMINOUS PERMANENT COLOUR NEUTRALISED FINISH & EXTREME LUMINOSITY
Concept Hair Magazine Autumn 2019 issue. Concept Hair is the only magazine for UK hairdressing and barbering students.