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PUBLISHER Samuel Alexander GENERAL MANAGER Fifi Oesman MANAGING EDITOR Okky Ardya W. JOURNALIST Yemimah Natalie G. SECRETARY Felin Mayaputri G. GRAPHIC DESIGNER Samuel Alexander ILLUSTRATOR Jessica Xu MARKETING HEAD Devi Malasari ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Adi Saputra ADMINISTRATION Marini Naomi SUBSCRIPTION Dian Alkahfi ADMINISTRATION Muammirt GOURMETMEDIA PT. Gourmet Media Pondok Hijau Golf Chrysocolla Utara 6 no. 46 Gading Serpong Tangerang, 15810 TEL 081807575100 EMAIL Š Copyright 2013 by PT. Gourmet Media. All pieces reproduced in this issue are under prior copyright by the creators and publisher by the contractual arrangements. Nothing shown maybe reproduced in any form without obtaining the permission of the publisher and any other person or company who may have copyright ownership.




Many people choose fine dining restaurants for a special occasion, so the food must not disappoint in either selection or quality. You don’t need to feature a huge menu, but it should be interesting, offering unique items that patrons wouldn’t find at any other restaurant.


any fine dining restaurants offer prix fixe menus or limited menus that change on a daily or weekly basis. A great benefit of a smaller, rotating menu allows you to buy seasonal items when they are at their peak of freshness. Your chef can also exercise his or her creativity when designing dishes. Fine dining wine and liquor selections should be on the high end. No Allen’s Coffee Brandy or Bud Light needed. Instead, you should carry top shelf liquors and a wide selection of cognacs, brandies and other after-dinner drinks. Your wine list should compliment your menu. Each wine should be paired with individual dishes.



Customer service in a fine dining restaurant is much more attentative than in casual dining establishments. Fine dining service goes far beyond taking an order and delivering food. Many fine dining services include:

Many people choose fine dining restaurants for a special occasion, so the food must not disappoint- in either selection or quality. You don’t need to feature a huge menu, but it should be interesting, offering unique items that patrons wouldn’t find at any other restaurant. Many fine dining restaurants offer prix fixe menus or limited menus that change on a daily or weekly basis. A great benefit of a smaller, rotating menu allows you to buy seasonal items when they are at their peak of freshness. Your chef can also exercise his or her creativity when designing dishes.

• Escorting patrons to the table, holding the chair for women • Escorting patrons to the restrooms • Crumbing the table in between courses • Replacing linen napkins if a patron leaves the table • Explaining menu items without notes • Serving food directly on the plate at the table All of the details that are expected of a fine dining server require that your staff be rigorously trained. They should be able to answer any and all questions customers may have about a menu or item or wine. They should also be ready to make menu recommendations,

Fine dining wine and liquor selections should be on the high end. No Allen’s Coffee Brandy or Bud Light needed. Instead, you should carry top shelf liquors and a wide selection of cognacs, brandies and other after-dinner drinks. Your wine list should compliment your menu. Each wine should be paired with individual dishes. gourmet

if asked.



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America is becoming a nation of sushi connoisseurs, able to discuss the difference between o-toro and chu-toro. Senior Editor Ray Isle looks at the stats, the buzzwords, the masters and mavericks, and the do’s and don’ts. RAY ISLE


merica has become a sushi nation. Sushi is passed by waiters at bar mitzvahs, served in college food halls, sold in plastic trays at convenience stores. There’s four-star sushi and nightclub sushi, sushi shower curtains and sushi refrigerator magnets. Sushi is a relatively recent arrival in the U.S., making its first small inroads a decade or so after World War II. A sashimi dinner in the 1950s at Miyako in San Diego, if you knew to go there, would run you $1.25. By the mid-1970s the chef at Tokyo Kaikan

restaurant in Los Angeles had invented the California roll. The number of sushi bars in the U.S. quintupled between 1988 and 1998, and has kept on growing. Since the turn of the millennium, sushi has thrived at the heights of American cuisine, with classicist sushi chefs shipping in rare fish from Japan and avantgarde chefs bending tradition daily. And, in what is perhaps the ultimate compliment, American-style sushi has emigrated back to Japan—though Americans might feel strange ordering a Nixon roll in Tokyo.

top sushi classicists. Los Angeles HIROYUKI URASAWA OF URASAWA After Masa left for New York, his student Urasawa opened his own place in Beverly Hills. Seasonal rarities are standard here—from October to March, look for fugu (blowfish).

Avant-garde Master Sushi rice should be Japanese short-grain white rice seasoned with a mixture of rice vinegar, sugar and salt. Wasabi comes from a plant and usually a master sushi chef will grate it himself.

The Supreme Sushi Experience

Dinner at Masa, the Manhattan restaurant owned by chef Masa Takayama, is a singular experience. In a templelike room with only 26 seats, Masa might fashion 25 courses over three hours, from lobster and foie gras shabu-shabu to classical sushi.

At Sushi of Gari and its new offshoot, Gari, in Manhattan, chef Masatoshi “Gari” Sugio, opposite, specializes in innovative flavorings that never overshadow the taste of the fish. Among his 130 radical inventions: tai salad (Japanese red snapper with microgreens, pine nuts and a lotus-root chip); sautéed foie gras with balsamic mousse; bluefin toro with ponzu mousse; marinated tuna with pine nuts on fried nori; marinated tuna with tofu sauce; squid with shiso flowers.

The Sushi Lexicon


These five chefs belong with Masa Takayama, of New York City’s Masa, in the pantheon of America’s

Nori Seaweed, harvested primarily off the coast of Japan, that is dried, roasted and pressed into sheets. Awase-zu The seasoning added to cooked short-grain sushi rice is made from rice vinegar, sugar and salt. Sashimi Sliced raw fish without rice; sashimi should be eaten with

chopsticks rather than fingers. Nigiri sushi A bite-size mound of vinegared rice with a similar-size piece of fish, shellfish or other topping. Maki sushi Rolled sushi; basically, a sheet of nori wrapped around rice and raw fish (or other fillings). Chirashi sushi Literally, “scattered sushi”; raw fish and vegetables served over rice, most often in a bowl. Omakase The root word means “to trust”—the chef serves you whatever he or she likes. No menus. Sushi chefs in the U.S. have long pushed boundaries, most recently borrowing ideas from an eclectic range of cuisines.

Sushi Places

- NOBU MATSUHISA OF NOBU & MATSUHISA, New York & Los Angeles, Nobu opened L.A.’s Matsuhisa in 1987, shocking the country with his deft mingling of Japanese, Peruvian and European ingredients. His influence now extends far beyond the dozen or so restaurants that carry his name. - MA TING YEN OF OISHII SUSHI, Brooklyn, Yen creates graceful, French-inflected sushi—for instance, his Kinzan Sake tops salmon tartare with truffle shavings, golden caviar and a sprinkling of gold leaf. - SOTOHIRO KOSUGI OF SOTO, Atlanta, JAPANESE RESTAURANT Kosugi might wrap sea urchin with a thin slice of sashimi squid, then nori, to mimic the appearance of a real sea urchin.


Sushi Deconstructed





European traditions of pastry-making is often traced back to the short crust era flaky doughs that were in use throughout the Mediterranean in ancient times. These recipes were popularized in Western Europe by Crusaders returning home. In the Mediterranean, the Romans, Greeks and Phoenicians all had filo-style pastries in their culinary traditions. There is also strong evidence that the ancient Egyptians produced pastrylike confections. It is very possible that Egyptians made and ate pastries. They had professional bakers that surely had the skills to do so, and they also had needed materials like flour, oil, and honey. In the plays of Aristophanes, in 5th century BC, there are mentions of sweetmeats including small pastries filled with fruit. The Roman cuisine used flour, oil and water to make pastries that were used to cover meats and fowls.



Those who make pastries professionally are known as either bakers or pastry chefs, depending on whether they produce pastries for a bakery or a restaurant. Pastry chefs use a combination of culinary ability and creativity in baking, decoration, and flavoring with ingredients. Many baked goods require a lot of time and focus. Presentation is an important part of pastry and dessert preparation. The job is often physically demanding; requiring attention to detail and long hours. They are also responsible for creating new recipes to put on the menu. Pastry chefs work in restaurants, famous hotels, casinos and bakeries.

A crêpe or crepe, is a type of very thin pancake, usually made from wheat flour (crêpes de Froment) or buckwheat flour (galettes). The word is of French origin, deriving from the Latin crispa, meaning “curled”. While crêpes originate from Brittany, a region in the northwest of France, their consumption is widespread in France.

Crêpes are especially popular throughout France. The common ingredients include flour, eggs, milk, butter, and a pinch of salt. Crêpes are usually of two types: sweet crêpes (crêpes sucrées) made with wheat flour and slightly sweetened; and savoury galettes (crêpes salées) made with buckwheat flour and unsweetened. The name “galette” came from the French word galet (“pebble”), Batter made from buckwheat flour is gluten-free, which makes it possible for people who have a gluten allergy or intolerance to eat this type of crêpe.

PHYLLO Phyllo pastries are usually paper-thin and greatly stretched. They involve several stretched out layers and brushed with butter. These pastries are delicate and can break easily.

Mille crêpe is a French cake made of many crêpe layers. The word mille means “a thousand”, implying the many layers of crêpe. A sweet crêpe served with strawberries and whipped cream. Another standard French and Belgian crêpe is the crêpe Suzette, a crêpe with lightly grated orange peel and liqueur which is subsequently lit upon presentation. Cherry Kijafa Crêpes are also often common and are made with a traditional crêpe base, but filled with cherries simmered in a Kijafa wine sauce. Some chefs insist that Beef Wellington include a crêpe, wrapping the coated meat to retain moisture, thereby preventing the pastry from going soggy. A common recipe practiced among bodybuilders is what is called a “bodybuilder ’s crêpe”, made with whey protein powder, flavoring, egg white, and other ingredients such as cottage cheese, and peanut butter.

PUFF PASTRY Puff pastry has many layers that cause it to expand or “puff” when baked. Pastries are made using flour, butter, salt, and water. Pastry rises up due to the combination and reaction of the four ingredients and also from the air that gets between the layers.

FLAKY Flaky pastry is a simple pastry that expands when cooked due to the number of layers. The “puff” is obtained by beginning the baking process with a high temperature and lowering the temperature to finish.

CUSTARD Custard is a variety of culinary preparations based on a cooked mixture of milk or cream and egg yolk. Depending on how much egg or thickener is used, custard may vary in consistency from a thin pouring sauce, to a thick pastry cream used to fill éclairs. The most common custards are used as desserts or dessert sauces and typically include sugar and vanilla. Custard bases may also be used for quiches and other savory foods. Custard is usually cooked in a double boiler (bain-marie), or heated very gently in a saucepan on a stove, though custard can also be steamed, baked in the oven with or without a water bath, or even cooked in a pressure cooker. Custard preparation is a delicate operation, because a temperature increase of 3-6 °C leads to overcooking and curdling. Generally, a fully cooked custard begins setting at 70 °C.





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The Chemistry of Coffee Brewing. when you brew coffee, hot water acts as a solvent, washing the soluble solids out of the coffee grinds and into the brew. If you dissolve table salt in water, you have a soluble solid. Brew methods that use paper filters have only the soluble solids in the cup. Some brew methods also allow insoluble solids to enter the brew.


rench Press, Espresso or Turkish Coffee are three methods that will have insoluble particulates suspended in the liquid. Insoluble solids will precipitate out of the brew over time, if you don’t disturb the liquid. Hence your mug of French Press coffee might taste gritty nearing the end, and there is muddy residue in the bottom of the cup. Suspended solids add a sense of body to the cup, but can also add bittering tastes. Soluble solids are bonded with the water molecules, and will not separate over time. There are five main factors that control brewing results. First is the brew recipe, the ratio of water-to-coffee. More on that below. Second is the particle size of the coffee: finer grind means more surface area of the bean is exposed to the water. Third is the temperature of the water, ideally between 198-204 f, since water is a better solvent at near-boiling temperature. The fourth factor is contact time, how long the water and coffee are in contact with each other. And lastly is agitation, since stirring the coffee-water infusion increases extraction rate of soluble solids. Other factors influence the brew, but these are the main ones. Most people find that when 20% of soluble solids are extracted from the coffee grounds, the brew has the best flavors. Too much extraction (too fine grind, too long brew time, too hot water, too much coffee in the recipe) and the brew is bitter. On the other hand, under-extraction results in a thin, weak cup. Simply using more coffee grinds cannot fix other brew problems: If you use 20 grams coffee and 350 ML of water and 4 minutes steep time to achieve 20% extraction (it should), using 40 grams coffee with a contact time of 1 minute to compensate will not result in a better cup.

Rinse all paper filters with hot water to wash away loose paper fibers that will give an off taste in the cup, especially when brewing small amounts. Preheat your brew device, your French Press, Filtercone, etc. You can do both by simply heating extra hot water, and washing/ preheating in one step.

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Keep brewing equipment clean! Old sediments easily make for rancid flavors in the cup. A good rule of thumb is if you smell an odor from your coffee making equipment, clean it. If you cannot remember the last time you cleaned your brewer, clean it.


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From retro diners to church suppers to Boy Scout Jamborees, America loves its pancakes. Read on for our pick of the nation’s top ten places to eat them.

Sure, America has also spawned national restaurant chains devoted to this iconic treat. The International House of Pancakes was founded in 1958, and remains a favorite of college students craving high carb-and-sugar doses during late-night cram sessions. In Portland, OR, the unrelated Original

House of Pancakes, which first opened in 1953, was more recently designated a regional landmark by the James Beard Foundation. The famous food critic once called it one of the 10 best in America, and we still agree. Travel + Leisure’s favourite pancake houses were selected for their creative recipes and toppings, sugary or savoury fillings, and regional sides. And we made sure the pitcher on the sideboard was filled with genuine maple syrup (or the regional equivalent). Yes, you’d expect real syrup almost anywhere in Vermont, but at the Farmers Diner in Quechee, the pancakes are surprisingly delicious. Here, organic wheat flour and Cabot sweet cream butter are whisked into buttermilk pancakes with a mission. Owner Tod Murphy is known for his dedication to regional farmers and small-batch purveyors (honey, jam, syrup) from the Green Mountain state. That means every ingredient, from the free-range eggs to the maple-cured sausage, is delivered to this updated diner ’s door fresh every day. But the northeast isn’t the only region to find top cakes. On Hawaii’s Big Island,

the Hawaiian Style Café is famous for its platter-size pancakes. This homey joint with booths and counter service on the outskirts of Waimea is owned by Guy Kao’o, who has been mixing pancakes from scratch every day for the past 18 years. His are topped with a fried egg and served with side of fried Spam. From the East Village to West Hollywood, cooks are flipping flapjacks, Johnny cakes, hot cakes, or Dutch babies. Here, 10 spots across the U.S. where Paul Bunyan would be happily show up with Babe the Blue Ox for breakfast. Shane Mitchell


My favourite pancake story as a young girl was the one about Paul Bunyan. The mythical lumberjack was famous for eating “hungry man” stacks from a giant griddle greased by 20 cooks who skated across the surface wearing whole hams strapped to their feet. Because of my fascination with this story, pancakes were the first thing I learned to make in the kitchen. I’d whip some up misshapen hot cakes every Saturday morning for my parents, who always ate every bite. My story is hardly uncommon. Despite the global appeal of the pancake, Americans have given this simple treat—made with flour, eggs and milk—iconic status. And different regions of the country have made the pancake their own, adding local ingredients and inspired touches. Today, sitting down to a plate of flapjacks often gives you an insider ’s look at some of those regional tastes.


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It is written that Christopher Columbus was fond of Portuguese espetadas, a beef shish kebab marinated in wine and roasted on an open fire. The term shish kebab comes from Turkish words literally meaning “skewer” and “roast meat,” and it is a signature Turkish meal.

Kebabs were a natural solution for nomadic tribes. Unusual meats were marinated not only to tenderize, but also to get rid of some of the gamey flavor. Today, shish kebabs have expanded into most cultures in some form or another. Oriental cultures have satay, which is roasted skewered meats served with a dipping sauce usually made with peanuts. Japan has yakitori, which is grilled skewered fowl. In France, they are called brochettes, meaning “skewer.” You will often find this dish commonly misspelled as shish kabobs or shish kababs.

Kebabs have become very popular in Western Food culture over the last few decades and are commonly referred to as “shish kebab” at cookouts and American menus. Shish kebab is translated to skewer of grilled meat and encompasses many variations of the kebab. In the Middle East, kebabs are not always prepared on a skewer and do not always consist of cubed meat and veggies. Since kebab are prepared in just about every Middle Eastern country, there are several spellings, such as kabob, kebob, kebap, kabab, and kebab.




KEBAB RECIPES Spicy Lamb Kebab If you are looking for a kebab with a kick, this is it! Lamb is marinated in a spicy blend of herbs, creating a flavourful lamb kebab. Shrimp Kebab This shrimp kebab recipe is perfect for beginners. It requires very few ingredients, but is bursting with flavour. Samak Kebab Fish make an excellent addition to a kebab. Grilled halibut, swordfish, or salmon combined with this marinade make this

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dish a winner. Lamb Shish Kebab This recipe for lamb shish kebab is easy, requires few ingredients, and is perfect for dipping. Shish Taouk Chicken kebab are the perfect cookout food. Lamb and Beef Kubideh A blend of ground lamb and beef with spices are combined and skewered. Chelo kebab are the national dish of Iran and one of the oldest type of kebab. Kofta Kofta is a great alternative to meatloaf! Made with ground beef and

spices, it is cooked, but not served on a skewer. The type of skewer you use is very important when making kebabs. I prefer flat, stainless steel skewers. The meat and vegetables cling to the skewer better than wooden kinds. Regardless of what type of skewer you use, be sure to apply a light coat of cooking oil before threading vegetables and meat. Your meats and veggies will slide off with ease! SAAD FAYED


One should eat to live, not live to eat


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- Moliere

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Tover independent restaurants. To help you decide if a restaurant franchise is the right choice for you, here are the pros and cons.



• INSTANT BUSINESS A restaurant franchise offers you an instant business. You don’t have to worry about the name, the décor, the menu or the marketing. It’s all done for you.

• MONEY Money is major drawback of buying a restaurant franchise. Many of the bigger restaurant chains require at least a million dollars in assets, before they will consider letting you buy into their company. Of course, the theory is that you will make all your initial investment money back sooner than if you started an independent restaurant.

• BETTER BUYING POWER Restaurant franchises have bigger buying power. Food and other inventory can be purchased far cheaper than your local independent restaurant. • NAME RECOGNITION Name recognition is a huge benefit of a restaurant franchise. You don’t have to worry about start-up costs for advertising.

• LACK OF CREATIVE FREEDOM You have no say in the menu, the décor, or the signage of your restaurant. If you have a certain theme or concept in mind, it may not mesh with a restaurant franchise. • LOTS OF RULES In order to maintain a certain quality of customer service, as well as continuity at each location, franchises have many rules and regulations that must be followed. Everything from the seating plan of the dining room, to the color of the restrooms can be subject to specific rules. • ROYALTIES On top of paying for the rights to a restaurant franchise, you are also expected to pay royalties. This covers the advertising, menu flyers, and other support the restaurant corporation gives you throughout the year. Make sure to add franchise fees into your budget.


• SUPPORT A restaurant franchise comes with support from the head office. If you have questions or concerns, you can ask them. This can be very helpful for new restaurant owners, who don’t always know what to do when they encounter certain problems.



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I have been getting a lot of requests for information as to the proper care and cooking of ribs. I lost my taste for ribs in 1985 when I went to Cleveland, Ohio with Cuzin Homers Barbecue Team. For three days I had all the ribs I could consume and that was a considerable amount. Since then, ribs have not been so enchanting to me. But, AMERICA WANTS TO KNOW! So here we go.


hen we speak of ribs, most of us are thinking pork ribs, though in some areas beef ribs are in favour. We will stick with pork ribs for this occasion. There are three basic types of ribs. First are the spare ribs. The spare ribs come from the underbelly and side of the pig. They contain the least amount of meat on the bone. Next are the back ribs. They are from the blade and centre section of the loin. They have more meat per amount of bone than the spare ribs. Country-style ribs come from the rib end of the loin and contain the most meat per bone.

However, since country-style ribs have a much thicker layer of meat and require a longer cooking time, they benefit from slow smoking. In any case, give the ribs a good coating of dry rub and let them set in a plastic bag several hours or overnight in the icebox to let the seasoning work in. Put the spare ribs and the back ribs on the grill -- bone side down to start. Turn several times during the cooking time and give a mopping with a good mop sauce. Just before they are done, you can use your finishing sauce. Back to Cleveland, Ohio in 1985. The Cuzin Homer BBQ Team had not previously cooked ribs in the volume that was required for the National Rib Burn-Off, which was a commercial cook-off where the contestants sold their product to the public. We knew we would need to be able to cook a lot of ribs in very little time. Cuzin Homer hit on the idea of parboiling the ribs. To really “tender up� your at home ribs, when they are done, wrap them tightly in foil and place the package in a brown paper bag and let it set for an hour. The steaming will really tender the ribs up. It is also helpful when you get the ribs done a little ahead of the rest of the meal. You can probably leave them in the wrapping longer than an hour without hurting the quality. Ribs are amenable to all kinds of seasoning. Here are a few of the more popular styles.


When you are trying to decide how many ribs to buy, you can figure that the spare ribs will produce one and a quarter servings per pound, raw weight. The back ribs will give one and a half servings per pound and the country style come in at two servings per pound. The spare ribs and the back ribs seem to turn out better if they are grilled, rather than slow smoked. You put them over medium heat, and they should be done in an hour and a half to two hours.


Gourmet Magazine  

by Samuel Alexander

Gourmet Magazine  

by Samuel Alexander