Scottish Mountaineering Trust
Since 1990, the Trust has granted more than £800,000 for causes such as: • • • • • • • •
Renovation of Club Huts Footpath construction and maintenance Land purchase, such as John Muir Trust acquisitions Supporting visually impaired people to attend Glenmore Lodge courses Mountain Rescue Supporting young people to go on expeditions Supporting access Supporting environmental conservation
Our funds come from Trust publications, such as Scottish Mountaineering Club guidebooks, as well as donations and bequests from the public. If you would like to donate to the Trust, or to see how the trust could help you or your organisation, please go to www.smc.org.uk/trust/
The area covered by this guide stretches from Canna in the north where climbing developed during the 2000s, to Arran in the south where climbing started in the 1800s. Rum and Eigg are well established as climbing venues, but Canna, Muck, Coll, Tiree, Islay, Jura and Cara appear in a guidebook for the first time. More than 2500 routes are supplemented by 20 maps, 95 diagrams and 80 action photographs
Top left: South Ridge Direct, VS, Cir Mhòr, Arran, climber Mo Walker (photo Christine Crawford). Top right: Archaeopterzx, E1, Shelf Wall, Islay, climber Graham Little (photo Christina Woodrow). Below: The Promise, S, Yellow Walls Area, Muck, climber Billy Hood (photo Colin Moody)
INNER HEBRIDES & ARRAN
All profits from the sale of this guidebook go to fund the Scottish Mountaineering Trust. All grants given by the Trust benefit mountains or the people who enjoy them.
INNER HEBRIDES & ARRAN
CANNA, RUM, EIGG & MUCK 1. 2. 3. 4.
Canna Rum Eigg Muck
COLL & TIREE 5. Coll 6. Tiree
MULL & IONA
7. North-West Mull & Ulva 8. Central Mull 9. South Mull 10. Granite Crags 11. Iona
98 112 116 145 183
12. Colonsay 13. Oronsay 14. The Garvellachs
196 201 201
15. Islay 16. Jura 17. Cara
202 214 215
COLONSAY, ORONSAY & THE GARVELLACHS ISLAY, JURA & CARA ARRAN
SCOTTISH MOUNTAINEERING CLUB CLIMBERS’ GUIDE
20 45 65 76
4 5 Kilchoan Corran Ferry Tobermoray
A83 A82 M8
Claonaig Lochranza Port Ellen
18 Ayr Cambeltown
INNER HEBRIDES & ARRAN Colin Moody Graham Little
Series Editor: Brian Davison Series Design: Tom Prentice
SCOTTISH MOUNTAINEERING CLUB CLIMBERS’ GUIDE
Published in Great Britain by The Scottish Mountaineering Trust, 2014 © The Scottish Mountaineering Club
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means (electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise), without the prior written permission of the publisher.
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library
Front Cover: Little Red Book, HVS 5b, Aird Dearg, Mull, climber Pete Whillance Inside Rear Cover: Twin Cracks, VS 4c, Erraid, Mull, climber Andy Hyslop (photos Colin Moody)
Route descriptions of climbs in this guide, together with their grades and any references to in situ or natural protection are made in good faith, based on past or first ascent descriptions, checked and substantiated where possible by the authors. However, climbs lose holds and are altered by rockfall, rock becomes dirty and loose and in situ protection deteriorates. Even minor alterations can have a dramatic effect on a climb’s grade or seriousness. Therefore, it is essential that climbers judge the condition of any route for themselves, before they start climbing.
The authors, editors, friends and assistants involved in the publication of this guide, the Scottish Mountaineering Club, the Scottish Mountaineering Trust and Scottish Mountaineering Trust (Publications) Ltd, can therefore accept no liability whatever for damage to property, nor for personal injury or death, arising directly or indirectly from the use of this publication.
Production: Scottish Mountaineering Trust (Publications) Ltd Layouts & typesetting: Tom Prentice, Ken Crocket Diagram and map graphics: Susan Jensen, Bernard Newman, Tom Prentice, Noel Williams Printed & bound in India by Replika Press Pvt Ltd Some maps are derived from Ordnance Survey OpenData™ © Crown copyright and database right 2010
Distributed by Cordee, 11 Jacknell Road, Dodwells Industrial Estate, Hinkley, LE10 3BS (t) 01455 61185 (e) firstname.lastname@example.org (w) www.cordee.co.uk For details of other SMC guidebooks see p320 www.smc.org.uk
List of Diagrams & Maps Introduction & Acknowledgements Geology History
Environment, Safety & Technical Notes CANNA, RUM, EIGG & MUCK Canna House Crags Bunkhouse Crag Wave Crag The Fortress Andrew’s Crag Nunnery Crag Dùn Teath Creag Àrd
4 6 8 9 17 20 20 20 25 29 34 36 38 40 41
Rum Barkeval Halival Askival Trollabhal Runsival Crag Loch an Dornabac Pinnacles, Stacks & Sea-cliffs
45 45 47 50 53 57 62 63
Muck Camus Mòr Gleann Mhàirtein Beinn Airein
76 76 83 86
Eigg An Sgùrr
COLL & TIREE
Coll Creag nan Clamhan Grishipoll Dome Dùn Dubh Hogh Rocks Hogh Bay Creag Eadair
Tiree Ceann a’ Mhara
88 88 88 89 89 90 94 95
MULL & IONA
North-West Mull & Ulva Croig Port Langamull Calgary The Broch Dùn Mòr Aird Dearg Sròn Gharbh Ulva – Basalt Columns
98 98 98 101 101 106 108 109 111 112
South Mull Creach Beinn Chaiginn Mhòir An Garradh Glen Mhòr Ardcrishnish – Aoineadh Liath Shiaba Scoor Ardtun
116 116 116 117 120 121 123 124 134
Central Mull Ben More Balmeanach Raven’s Crag Creag Ghillean
Granite Crags Kintra Fionnphort Erraid
112 112 113 114 115
145 145 151 160
Iona West Coast Carraig Druim Dhùgaill South Coast
183 183 186 187
Colonsay Kiloran Bay Area Glen Raonabuilg & Port Mhòr
196 196 196 200
COLONSAY, ORONSAY & THE GARVELLACHS Oronsay Dùn Domhnuill Beinn Oronsay
ISLAY, JURA & CARA Islay The Oa Rinns of Islay
201 201 201 201
202 202 202 203
Sanaigmore Area Geoda Uamh nam Fear Area Dùn Bheolain Machit Bay Area Lossit Bay North of Portnahaven South of Portnahaven
Beinn Nuis Beinn Tarsuinn Beinn a’ Chliabhain A’ Chir North Goatfell Goatfell Cìr Mhòr South Face North-east Face Cioch na h-Oighe Mullach Buidhe (Sannox) Coire na h-Uaimh Lower Slabs Caisteal Abhail Ceum na Caillich Cuithe Mheadhonach Tòrr Nead an Eoin Mullach Buidhe (Pirnmill) Drumadoon Point Bennan Head Maol Donn
First Ascents Index
SMC Publications List
203 205 206 210 210 211 212
Diagrams & Maps Canna maps
216 216 220 226 227 232 232 239 239 252 257 262 263 265 267 269 271 273 273 275 275 277 308 320
Lower House Crag Upper House Crag Bunkhouse Crag Wave Crag, West & South Wave Crag, East The Fortress Half Dome Andrew’s Crag Creag Àrd, East Face
21, 22 23 24 26 30 32 34 36 37 42
map An Sgùrr, Main Wall, Right An Sgùrr, The Nose Area An Sgùrr, Main Wall, Left An Sgùrr, Beehive Buttress An Sgùrr, Ocean Wall
65 66 66 69 71 72
map Halival, South-East Face Trollabhal, Harris Buttress Runsival, North-West Face
map Camus Mòr Gleann Mhairtein map Big Boulder Buttress Angel’s Wing Buttress Beinn Airein
Coll & Tiree Mull & Iona
map North-west Mull & Ulva map Calgary, Arch Wall Calgary, Brown Wall Calgary, Otter Wall, Left Calgary, Otter Wall, Right The Broch, Left The Broch, Right The Broch, Far Right
Central Mull map Balmeanach Raven’s Crag, Great Buttress
South Mull map An Garradh Ardcrishnish Scoor map Scoor, Dune Wall Scoor, Beach Wall
46 48 54 59
77 77 83 84 85 86
99 100 102 104 105 105 106 107 108
99 113 115
99 118 122 124 125 126
Scoor, The Slab Scoor, Horse Wall & Wave Scoor, Smelly Bay Scoor, Slochd Wall & Tearmainn Ardtun map Ardtun, East Wall, Left Ardtun, East Wall, Right Ardtun, Waterfall Wall Ardtun, Yellow Block Ardtun, Blow Hole Ardtun, Pile of Stones Ardtun, Dunan Mòr
128 130 132 133 135 135 136 137 139 141 143 144
map Tolkien Crag Carraig Druim Dhughaill, Upper Carraig Druim Dhughaill, Lower Dùn Lathraichean Creag Taghain Raven’s Crag, Main Wall West Raven’s Crag, The Pulpit Raven’s Crag, Main Wall East Raven’s Crag, Labrador Wall
185 183 186 186 187 188 189 190 193 194
Granite Crags map Kintra map Kintra, Ice Wall Kintra, Costa del Sol Grating Ramps Eilean a’ Ghearrain Rusty Tractor School Crag Hidden Crag Erraid map Erraid, Karen’s Slab Erraid, The Corridor Erraid, Creag Mòr Erraid, Sunny Side Erraid, Slochd Dubh Wall Erraid, Pink Wall Erraid, Upper Tier West Erraid, Upper Tier South Erraid, Lower Tier Erraid, Paradise Wall Erraid, Otter Walls Erraid, Asphodel Wall Erraid, Mink Walls Erraid, Sunshine Wall Erraid, Strawberry Pig Wall Erraid, New Slabs Iona
Colonsay & Oronsay Islay
map Rinns of Islay
152 145 147 148 153 155 156 158 159 160 161 162 163 164 165 166 167 168 170 171 172 173 175 177 178 179
DIAGRAMS & MAPS Jura
map 217, Beinn Nuis, East Face Beinn Tarsuinn, Full Meed Beinn Tarsuinn, Meadow Face Beinn Tarsuinn, Meadow Face A’ Chir, Coire Daingean Face Goatfell, Rosa Slabs Goatfell, South Slabs Cìr Mhòr, South Face Cìr Mhòr, Lower West Face Cìr Mhòr, East Face Cìr Mhòr, Upper East Face Cìr Mhòr, North-East Face Cìr Mhòr, Upper NE Face Cioch na h-Oighe Cioch na h-Oighe, The Bastion Coire na h-Uaimh Lower Slabs Caisteal Abhail, Upper Rocks Coire nan Ceum Cuithe Mheadhonach Arran Other Crags map Tòrr Nead an Eoin
271 218 220 222 224 228 234 234 239 242 249 250 253 255 259 260 264 266 268 270 271 272
INTRODUCTION & ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
Looking over Kintyre to the Inner Hebrides from Arran (photo Dan Arkle)
The area covered by this guide stretches from Canna in the north where climbing developed over the last decade to Arran in the south where climbing started in the 1800s. Many of these islands have their own particular charm and several such as Canna, Coll and Islay, are appearing in a climbing guide for the first time. The variety of climbing and scenery on the Inner Hebrides and Arran is huge. There are numerous dolerite crags both coastal and on hillsides. On granite there are short climbs above the turquoise sea on Erraid and multi pitch classics on the superb Arran hills. Some islands have outcrops of gneiss while others offer climbing on gabbro cliffs in remote corries or by the sea. There are also climbs on schist, quartzite, slate, conglomerate and the rest, even a little limestone. Bouldering venues have been mentioned and a growing number of Deep Water Solos are described. Due to the immense variety of rock types and surroundingds, climbing is never dull. On Arran, in addition to rock climbs there are a number of fine winter routes. Climbing on the Inner Hebrides and Arran takes a bit more effort than simply driving to a crag on mainland Scotland. Trips to these islands can often feel like an adventure, especially on the more remote islands. Ferry times need to be checked and schedules planned. Uninhabited islands donâ€™t have the luxury of a ferry so require even more planning for transport and food. The weather is frequently better than people expect, in 2012 when England and central Scotland were experiencing record rainfall there was a drought in the Hebrides. The weather station on Tiree records that it is one of the sunniest places in the United Kingdom with a mild climate, and this weather pattern is shared by other islands in the area. When it has been wet there are many quick drying crags to choose from, and rock climbing through the winter months is often possible. This beautiful isolation has a slight down side; although an attempt has been made to verify grades many routes are unrepeated while others have been repeated resulting in conflicting grades!
Colin Moody, Graham Little 2014
Although several of these islands are included in a guidebook for the first time, this volume builds on previous publications, namely Arran, Arrochar and the Southern Highlands and Skye and the Hebrides Volume 2 by the SMC, and an independent guide to Muck.
Pete Whillance did a huge amount of work on text and topos. Julian Lines provided topos and answered mundane questions about DWS grades! Rob Wright, Keith Bennett and Andy Spink provided a number of topos and John Watson advised on bouldering. Calum Black, Louise Gordon Canning, Andy Hyslop, Gary Latter, Mark Shaw, Tony Stone, Mich Tighe and Michael Tweedley commented on grades. Cynthia Grindley helped check out routes on various islands. Paul Gillies spent hours taking crag photos, others provided action shots. Thanks also to everyone who sent in route descriptions and topos to show the location of routes. This guide would not have appeared without all the people who have worked hard on production; Ken Crocket, Brian Davison, Susan Jensen, Bernard Newman, Grahame Nicoll, Tom Prentice and Noel Williams.
RLS, E3 5c, Erraid, Upper Tier South, Mull, climber Tess Fryer (photo Colin Moody)
Lewisian gneiss. It is a very hard rock often with colourful banding; some darker bands of amphibolite are less reliable for climbing.
The islands covered in this guide are geologically diverse; this makes for varied climbing, and varied scenery. How these rocks came about is explained in several books such as Hostile Habitats (SMT). This is a summary of the rock types and their properties for climbers.
This rock on Islay weathers to provide generous if at times strange holds.
There are a huge number of climbs on various igneous rocks in the area.
This dark metamorphic rock found on Islay was formed by the heating of gabbro.
Gneissose Metadiorite Metagabbro Schist
On the mountains of Arran there are some long classic climbs following flakes, cracks and slabs. Arran granite varies from perfect to friable rubbish. In places it has weathered to form excellent pockets. The Ross of Mull (and Erraid) granite is much older and was intruded in three phases. The second phase is noticeably porphyritic with conspicuous crystals of feldspar. Dark pieces of country rock which stand out from the granite give good holds. These xenoliths (foreign rocks) fell into the granite magma whilst it was still molten. They are particularly common near the edge of granite intrusions such as on Eilean nam Muc.
There are crags of Moine schist at Scoor on the south coast of Mull. There is slightly younger Dalradian schist on Arran. The climbs often have flake holds.
Well known for superb friction climbs in the Cuillin of Skye, gabbro is also found in the Rum Cuillin and in the hills of Mull. The climbs on the sea-cliffs of Muck are on a wide dyke of gabbro. There is also gabbro bouldering on the south coast of Arran.
There are over 500 dolerite climbs in this guide. They are on Canna, Rum, Eigg, Muck, Mull and Arran. Routes often follow well protected cracks but also give varied face climbing with flakes and pockets. In places where the underlying rock is softer it has eroded to give undercut starts.
Coll, Mull, Islay and Jura have metaquartzite crags. This rock is a quartz sandstone where the grains have been fused together by heat and pressure. It often gives straight angular holds.
The climbs on the Dalradian limestone of the Garvellachs feature sharp flakes that have been formed by erosion. There are routes on this slick rock on Colonsay.
Climbing on Cara is on epidiorite, a metamorphic rock composed chiefly of amphibole. There is evidence of recent rockfall.
A rock with a distinctive sheen found on Islay. It tends to split into sheets.
Although there are a variety of sedimentary rocks, they offer limited climbing.
There is limestone of Triassic age at Balmeanach on Mull characterised by good pockets. Parallel striations on polished surfaces, known as slickensides, are evidence of faulting in the strata.
There are a few climbs on the north coast of Rum on hard Torridonian sandstone. The softer sandstone on the east side of Arran is of much younger Devonian age.
The dramatic Sgùrr of Eigg is composed of porphyritic pitchstone which has good friction and provides a wealth of friendly rock features. In places it also has well developed columnar jointing. On Arran and Mull there are climbs on basalt lavas. These climbs are often loose but sometimes compact and difficult to protect so a few on Mull are bolt protected. A rock with the same composition as granite, but characterised by huge crystals. It was injected as veins and sheets into the Ross of Mull granite at a late stage.
These rocks are well represented.
Coll, Tiree and much of Iona are made of ancient
This muddy sandstone forms some climbs on Islay.
The Devonian conglomerate on the north-east coast of Arran is the familiar ‘pudding stone.’ At Balmeanach on Mull the routes start up Triassic quartz breccia on angular holds.
Andy Hyslop making the first ascent of Boxed, E4 6a, Kintra, Mull (photo Colin Moody)
The history of climbing on these islands is as varied as the climbing. The early mountaineers climbed on the hills of Rum and Arran over a century ago. Development of the less mountainous islands has occurred only over the last few decades. Most of the climbs are summer rock routes.
The ubiquitous Andy Nisbet was the first to record a route on Canna at House Crag in 2000 while waiting for the ferry to Rum. However Dave Ritchie climbed a route on House Crag in 1991 and John Peden did a couple of routes at Bunkhouse Crag in 1996. In September 2002 Pete Whillance realised the potential for quality single pitch routes. Regular visits over the next few years by Pete, Keith Bennett and Andrew Jackson have accounted for virtually all of the island’s current climbs. There were later additions by Colin Moody and Cynthia Grindley. Pete and Cynthia climbed the hardest Canna route, The Thin Red Line (E5) in 2008. Brian Davison and Andy Nisbet got in on the act with a few routes in 2011.
Mountaineering in Rum dates back to the 1890s, when the first visits by what we would recognise as climbers began. Probably all of the hills had been ascended before, and quite possibly some of the more precipitous ridges, but with the increasing interest in mountaineering
in the late 19th century the island started to receive visits purely for this purpose. Sir Hugh Munro, in Volume I of the SMC Journal, describes a visit resulting in ascents of Hallival, Askival, Ainshval and Sgùrr nan Gillean. In the following years several SMC Yacht Meets (grand affairs, no doubt, as befitted a gentleman’s club) saw ascents and descents of the major ridges by the likes of Pettigrew, Raeburn, Bell and Brown. The first recorded rock climbs date from the 1930s, with Oxford University parties climbing the East Ridge and the striking Oxford Groove, both on Hallival, and two routes on the Askival Slab. A couple of other climbs were made in the late 1930s, but visits to the island were few and do not seem to have been encouraged. Hodge in the SMCJ of 1939 observed that in those days it was “not usually possible to obtain even milk”. In the immediate post-war years access to Rum eased somewhat, perhaps at least in part due to the death of Sir George Bullough in 1939. In the period since then development has been patchy, with occasional flurries of activity coinciding with the visits to the island of particularly energetic groups, and relatively long periods when nothing new has been recorded. In 1945-46 the Junior Mountaineering Club of Yorkshire made the first such foray, recording several climbs on Ruinsival and Askival, then in the following year it was the turn of an Edinburgh University team, which included Geoff Dutton, Hamish Nicol, Gordon Parish, Iain Smart and Malcolm Slesser. In a visit of four weeks, one five-day
Fun for all the family! Climbing and beaching at Pink Wall, Erraid, Mull (photo Grahame Nicoll) his way through the obvious unclimbed lines: A Helping Hand (E2) a painful hand-crack, the finger wrecking Skerryvore (E3) in 1997 and Catriona (E4) in 2000. Latter and Julian Lines were active on Erraid in 2001 including some impressive deep water solos Drowning in Adreneline (6a) from Lines and Dreamline (6b) from Latter. Michael Tweedley climbed the obvious and much eyed route at Fionnphort to give Akira E5. The following year on Erraid, Lines coolly soloed, on sight again, over 30 routes including Jules’ Pistachios (E5) and the longer Space Traveller (E2) in Asteroid Chasm. Since then Colin Moody and Cynthia Grindley have picked over what was left. In 2010 Chris Dickinson and friends found some perfect walls on the islands west of Erraid. In 2010/11 numerous short routes were added to Erraid including: Trod on me Knob (VS John Topping), Dubh Artach (E5 Latter), Hanging Crack (E3 Andy Hyslop) and Bananarama (E3 Pete Whillance). In 2012 Kintra came back into fashion. Tess Fryer picked a cold day for Icebox (E1), Hyslop bouldered out then led Que tal Sloppy? (E4), Whillance added a number of routes and Tweedley led Casa de mi Padre (E5).
Campbell Forest and friends climbed at Port Bhan in 1962/3, short routes were not recorded in those days. Danny Brooks and friends climbed there in ‘91 and wrote up their routes. Two years later Colin Moody and Billy Hood did a few routes including The Good Book (E1) in May. In June Moody and Stella Adams climbed Jehad (E2) after cleaning, Moody had failed to on sight it the previous week because of poor rock. John Adams and Steve Scott nipped over for Heretic (E3) the next day. In August Mark Garthwaite and Davie Greig did the first route on Eilean Dideal’s West Face with Cognitive Therapy (E4). The next day Garthwaite climbed Yabadabadoo (E5). A week later he returned for his stunning little route The Incredible Dr Sex (E6). There were plans for a causeway to Iona and rumours of a visit by Pope John Paul 11 in ‘97. Moody and Louise Gordon Canning climbed Pope on a Rope (E2). Gary Latter perhaps unwisely named a route God is Dead (E4), he ended up in hospital soon after due to a mishap at the Dubh Loch. Later that year Ric Waterton found the excellent Blood Eagle (E5).
Colonsay & Oronsay
The first route recorded on Colonsay was in 1985. In the late 1980s John Spencer climbed a few routes and enjoyed a lot of bouldering. However, Graham Little and friends re-discovered the diversity of the island’s potential in the 1990s, putting up routes on a number of contrasting crags. Only a handful of new routes have been done since then.
Islay & Jura
Early rock climbing activity focussed on the Oa with a couple of routes being recorded in 1970 and rumours of later activity. Peter Farrington, an Islay resident, has climbed around the island for over 20 years, although never recording individual routes. In 1999 Graham Little did a couple of routes in The Rinns and then continued, with family and friends, to develop the wealth of climbing in this area.
It was the splendid ridges that first promoted Arran as a climbing centre and a number of early Scottish Mountaineering Club meets were held there in the 1890s and early 1900s. The A’ Chir Ridge (M) resisted a number of strong attempts before the first traverse was completed by a large party in January 1892 (the ridge was not in winter conditions at the time). When all the ridges had been fully explored, climbers turned their attention to Arran’s many, though not particularly attractive, gullies. Much tweed and damp granite contact was made with Harry MacRobert, often climbing solo, being particularly active. The highlight of this era was the first ascent of the Gully 3 on Beinn Nuis, more commonly known as the Nuis Chimney, in August 1901. It has since been regarded as the best gullychimney climb on the island (no particular distinction!). The first ascent team of Messrs Baker, Oppenheimer and Puttrell used combined tactics to surmount the first pitch, then made a number of excursions onto the adjacent walls to outflank seemingly impossible pitches in the chimney. This route, the first to be graded VS on the island, went unrepeated for many years. A handful of open face routes were also climbed on the great NorthEast Face of Cìr Mhòr during this period, including the thrutchy Bell’s Groove (VD) by Bell and Green and Pinnacle Ridge (D) by MacLay and Naismith in 1894. Most significantly, the exposed and serious B2C Rib (VD) was climbed by Bell, Boyd, Green and Napier in July 1895, a route years ahead of its time. The infamous ledges of Cioch na h-Oighe were also climbed in 1894. To quote from a comprehensive article on Arran climbing by Harry MacRobert in the 1908 Scottish Mountaineering Club Journal, there was ‘much scrambling in curious places’. Early winter exploration is not well documented, although a futuristic attempt on April Arete in February 1892 by Lawson, MacLay and Raeburn is recorded, and Ednie, Goodeve and McIntyre made an ascent of Pinnacle Ridge in December 1906 (although it is doubtful whether it was in full winter condition at the time). Perhaps the first confirmed winter ascent on Arran was Harry MacRobert’s solo ascent of Gully 4 (Grade III)
on Beinn Nuis in the winter of 1907 under deep snow. Over 30 years elapsed before further exploration took place, perhaps due to a reputation the island had gained for poor and vegetated rock. However, South Ridge, Original Route (VS) by J.A.Ramsay and party in 1936 and Easter Route (HVS) by K.Barber and A.S.Pigott in 1938 confounded this reputation and signalled the potential of the South Face of Cir Mhòr. This latter route, originally under graded at Severe, was considered the hardest climb on the island at the time. In September 1941, J.F.Hamilton and D.Paterson made the first ascent of South Ridge Direct (VS), now regarded as one of Scotland’s great classic rock climbs, which heralded a thorough investigation of Arran’s rock climbing potential. The next wave of exploration was by a small group of climbers based at the Admiralty Anti-Submarine Depot at Fairlie with Geoffrey Curtis, Ken Moneypenny and Gordon Townend being the main activists. After repeating South Ridge Direct they went on to develop the South Face of Cir Mhòr and many other of the island’s best cliffs over a period of four years. Considering the very basic climbing equipment used (initially only a natural fibre yachting rope and no karabiners), their achievements were notable; opening up the Coire Daingean cliffs, venturing onto the Meadow Face and the East Face of Beinn Nuis, and discovering the buttresses of Coire na h-Uaimh and Tòrr Nead an Eoin. Their catalogue of first ascents is impressive, with Caliban’s Creep (VD), Sou’wester Slabs (VD), Labyrinth (VD), Prospero’s Peril (S), Pagoda Ridge (S) and Midnight Ridge Direct (VS) being the best. The myth that Arran climbs were all loose and vegetated was now well and truly dismissed. In 1946 Nuis Chimney received a second and complete ascent, the leader, ‘Bim’ Dowman, using the shoulders and head of Paddy Buckley to surmount the crux, Buckley employing the handy wing spar of an Allied bomber (called Skipper and the Kids) to follow. Later that year a jammed inflatable life raft was removed on abseil by the Fell and Rock Club! Between 1947 and 1957 little of importance was discovered, although a few minor routes were climbed by J.M.Johnstone and friends during research for the first Arran rock climbing guide which was published in 1958. This slim and now very collectable guide included some superb diagrams. A notable exception was the ascent of The Sickle in November 1957 by J.H.Ashford and D.Burke which appeared fairly well down the graded list in the 1958 guide, yet was probably the hardest climb on Arran at the time; even with modern protection it is still regarded as a serious HVS route. In 1958 Davy McKelvie and Dick Sim climbed the formidable Minotaur on the Rosa Pinnacle by mistake whilst looking for Labyrinth. At a meaty HVS (now E1) it was some mistake! Bill Wallace, often with Hugh Stirling, also started to record routes at about this time and he was to go on to develop an intimate knowledge of the Arran hills. In the 1960s harder new routes started to be produced although they often relied on aid sections or on the odd pull or rest on gear whilst gardening. The Lower West Face of the Rosa Pinnacle saw further devel-
Graham Little making the first ascent of Blankist, HVS, Goatfell South Slabs (photo Kevin Howett) Arete (IV,5), 94 years after the first attempt! A number of easier winter routes were also produced in the late 1980s in a variety of different locations by Alastair Walker and Fraser McKie (often climbing solo). In 1986 Mark Charlton and Kevin Howett straightened out Insertion at E5 and added their own route West Point (E4) to the Rosa Pinnacle. The late 1980s saw the thorough development of the lichenous cliff at Drumadoon Point by a variety of activists and the addition of a very good direct start to The Rake (E1) on the Meadow Face by George McEwan and Alastair Walker. The new guide book publication in 1989 lumped Arran in with part of mainland Scotland. It received mixed reviews! The early 1990s saw remarkably little new route activity. Little soloed a handful of winter routes in 1991, the best being Hellfire Crack (IV,4) on Caisteal Abhail. George Szuca climbed a couple of routes including the surprisingly good Crystal (VS) on the North-East Face of Cir Mhòr and a number of variations (including the excellent edge variation (VS) to the J-pitch on Slapstick Wall). He also opened up some rather esoteric minor outcrops. In 1993 and 1994 Andrew Fraser and friends put up a few routes around the Full Meed Tower, including the splendidly named All Along the Watchtower (HVS) by Fraser, Robin McAllister and Mike Reed, while McAllister freed the last few aid points on Voodoo Chile (E2). In 1994, whilst checking out route descriptions,
Little plugged the obvious gap on the Lower Slabs of Coire na h-Uaimh producing The Key (HVS). In spring 1995 Martin Reynard and Dave Musgrove bagged a couple of single pitch gems on the Lower East Face of Cir Mhòr, with Ariel’s Arete (E1) being particularly fine. The first ascent was originally claimed by Little and Howett who climbed it in 1996, unaware of a previous ascent. During the superb summer of 1995 activity hotted up and the mountain crags saw some serious action when Howett and Little climbed the desperate Icarus (E5) on Cuithe Mheadhonach. Only two weeks later Howett and Little brought the saga of Achilles to a happy conclusion when they free climbed the problematic bypass to the original aided section, producing an outstanding and sustained route (E5). That same weekend they made an on sight ascent of Blundecral (E3), plugging the obvious gap on the Meadow Face. Two weeks later the same pair added a couple of routes to the South Slabs, including the excellent Blankist (HVS). Only four weeks after the first ascent of Blundecral, Fraser and McAllister made the unwitting second ascent of its first three pitches, then added their own Blunderbuss Finish (HVS). They returned to the Meadow Face at the tail end of the summer, climbing from right to left across the face and linking a selection of routes, to produce the long awaited Gulliver’s Travels (E2), the longest extreme on the island. The very cold pre-Christmas week of 1995 saw a number of parties active on the East Face of Ben Nuis. At the end of March 1996 Little and Scott Muir climbed four short routes on the flanks of Western Stoneshoot – the coldest place on Arran! In July 1996 Little and Howett, accompanied by Lawrence Hughes, eventually climbed the wild and desperate The Brigand (E6) on The Bastion of Cioch na h-Oighe after a spring attempt had been foiled by a snowstorm! In hot August weather Robin McAllister and Dave McGimpsey completed the logical and bold Blundecral True Finish (E5). In the spring of 1998 Colin Moody and Billy Hood climbed the oft fancied big slab to the right of The Curver high on the Meadow Face to give Snakes and Ladders (E2). Activity lapsed for a couple of years but 2001 produced a good crop of new routes with three major additions. The 1997 edition of the Arran guide had laid down a gauntlet for the 21st century – Cioch na hOighe’s ‘last great problem’. Only one year in and The Great Escape, at a heady E8, was climbed by John Dunne and Andy Jack; Dave MacLeod making a second ascent shortly afterwards. It clearly represented another step forward in the annals of Arran boldness. Later that year MacLeod and Dan Honeyman produced The Sleeping Crack (E6) on the Upper East Face of Cir Mhòr. The other major event of 2001 was Julian Lines’ bold solo of Forge (E5), to the right of Hammer, after warming up on a solo of Insertion Direct! A trickle of new routes continued into the second decade of the 21st century and no doubt will continue for many years to come. Are there other ‘last great problems’ on Arran still to climb? Of course there are, if you know where to look and are then bold enough to try!
Part 1 of the Land Reform (Scotland) Act 2003 gives you the right to be on most land for recreation, providing you act responsibly. This includes climbing, hillwalking, cycling and wild camping. These access rights and responsibilities are explained in the Scottish Outdoor Access Code. The key elements are: • Take personal responsibility for your own actions and act safely. • Respect people’s privacy and peace of mind. • Help land managers and others to work safely and effectively. • Care for the environment and take your litter home. • Keep your dog under proper control. • Take extra care if you’re organising an event or running a business.
Stalking, Shooting & Lambing
Deer Stalking: The stag stalking season is from 1st July to 20th October (although few estates start at the beginning of the season) the main period is from mid September to mid October. Hinds continue to be culled until 15th February. There is no stalking on Sundays. Rough Shooting: Shooting of Rabbits, Pheasants etc occurs on many of the islands in the winter months. If you suspect this is going on then ask if it alright to proceed. Lambing: It is important to avoid disturbing sheep during the lambing season, from March to May. Dogs should be kept on a lead near livestock throughout the year.
Fauna & Flora
Don’t disturb nesting birds, especially the rarer species which are found on crags (such as Golden Eagle and Peregrine Falcon) between 1st February and the end of July. Wilful disturbance of nesting birds is a criminal offence. If convicted you face a maximum of £5,000 fine, 6 months in prison and confiscation of equipment (ropes, car etc ). When cleaning routes in summer take care what you remove, some of the flora may be rare. When winter climbing, minimise damage to underlying vegetation by only climbing routes when fully frozen. Crag and Winter Climbing Codes are available from the MCofS (see below).
Part of the revenue from the sale of this and other Scottish Mountaineering Club books is granted by the Scottish Mountaineering Trust as financial assistance towards the repair and maintenance of hill paths in Scotland. However, it is our responsibility to minimise our erosive effect, for the enjoyment of future climbers.
Camping, Litter & Pollution
Responsible wild camping is permitted under the new access legislation, don’t camp near houses or in
photo Tom Prentice
cultivated fields. When camping, do not cause pollution, take a shovel and bury human waste carefully out of sight and far away from any habitation or watercourse. Avoid burying rubbish as this may also pollute the environment. There are ruined buildings on some of the islands; do not camp in these and do not disturb, or dismantle them to help secure tents. Take everything home that you brought and dispose of it properly. Leave as little trace of your stay as possible.
The proliferation of navigation cairns detracts from the feeling of wildness, and may be confusing rather than helpful as regards route finding. The indiscriminate building of cairns on the hills should be discouraged.
The Mountain Bothies Association maintains bothies on Rum, Mull, Islay and Jura, details of the Rum bothies can be found in the Small Isles introduction. Information on these and the Mountain Bothies code of use can be found on <www.mountainbothies.org.uk>.
Car & Bicycle Use
Many roads on the islands are single track, be courteous to other road users and pull over to allow overtaking, the car behind might have a fireman or coastguard responding to an emergency. Do not park in passing places and do not drive along private roads without permission. When parking avoid blocking access to private roads and land or causing any hazard to other road users. The use of bicycles is covered by access legislation (above). Bicycles can cause severe erosion when used ‘off road’ on footpaths and open hillsides and should only be used on vehicular or forest tracks.
The website address is given at the start of each island chapter, this should enable people to keep up to date. The information on the sites for the smaller islands is excellent. Some of the bigger islands have commercially driven sites so are not comprehensive, and only include businesses that pay for inclusion.
Most ferries to these Islands are operated by Caledonian MacBrayne <www.calmac.co.uk> (0800 066 5000). Booking is needed for many of them. It is often best to book through the local offices where they are more likely to know about problems with weather and breakdowns than the central office. Local phone numbers are given in each introduction. There is ample car parking if travelling from Ardrossan, Kennacraig and Mallaig. Finding parking in Oban is more of a problem, there is secure parking at Stoddarts (01631 564176) <www.stoddarts.co.uk>. Leave plenty of time or you may not get onto the ferry, some sailings demand that passengers are at the terminal 30mins before sailing, and vehicles 45mins before sailing.
Mountaineering Council of Scotland
The MCofS is the representative body for climbers and walkers in Scotland. One of its primary concerns is the continued free access to the hills and crags. Information about bird restrictions, stalking and general access issues can be obtained from the MCofS. Should you encounter problems regarding access you should contact the MCofS: The Old Granary, West Mill Street, Perth PH1 5QP, (01738 638 227, fax 01738 442 095), <email@example.com>, <www.mountaineering- scotland.org.uk.
Climbing and mountaineering are activities with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions and involvement. The same is true of climbs with any protection in place. It is up to the individual climber to assess the reliability of bolts, pegs, slings or old nuts, which may be in place. Falls sometimes occur due to holds breaking. Many routes in this guide have had few repeats so holds and blocks should be treated with caution, especially after a hard winter. Some belay stakes have been in the ground since the 1980s so back them up if possible. You are responsible for your own actions and should not hold landowners liable for an accident, even if it happens while climbing over a fence or dyke.
Phone 999, depending on the location Mountain Rescue or Coastguard may be called out. Give concise information about the location and injuries of the victim and any assistance available at the accident site. It is better to stay with the victim, but in a party of two, it may be necessary to leave to summon help. Leave the casualty warm and comfortable in a sheltered, well marked place.
The Inner Hebrides suffer less rain than Glencoe or Fort William. The climate is also milder due to the Gulf Stream so it is often possible to rock climb throughout
the winter. Rain can be very localised, usually drier on low lying ground that doesnâ€™t catch the clouds. Due to its isolated position, Arran can often get better weather than the Southern Highlands. Forecasts help but are far from perfect. There is usually a weather forecast at the end of news programmes on TV. Radio: BBC Radio Scotland has the Highland News at 7:55 which ends with a very accurate forecast for the Highlands region Monday to Friday mornings. They also provide an excellent forecast for climbers, hillwalkers and sailors broadcast at 19:04 Monday to Friday, 7:04 and 22:04 on Saturday and 7:04 and 20:04 on Sundays. TV: Reporting Scotland at 6:50 and 18:55 on BBC1 provides a good forecast for hillgoers. Internet: There are numerous forecasts, people often have their own favourites. <www.metvuw.com> has six hourly maps making it easy to see how the weather is expected to develop. <www.yr.no> shows the weather in hourly intervals. <www.theyr.tv> is another informative site. Other sites include <www.metcheck.com/uk>, <www.xcweather.co.uk>, <www.mwis.org.uk>, <www.metoffice.gov.uk/loutdoor/mountainsafetry/westhighland>, <www.bbc.co.uk/weather>.
To get the most out of climbing on sea-cliffs and tidal islands it is worth consulting tide tables. Books of tide tables are printed annually, they can be bought cheaply in a variety of local shops. Tide details can be found on a number of websites <www.bbc.co.uk/ weather/coast> and <www.sea/tide_tables> and <www.tidetimes.org.uk>. Check which time scale is used, this may be Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) or Coordinated Universal Time (UTC) which are almost identical; it may be British Summer Time (BST) which is an hour ahead.
Midges & Ticks
Midges can be plentiful in the summer months, try to keep to areas that are exposed to wind and sun and avoid damp sheltered, vegetated places. Midges are at the worst from evening to morning, so can cause problems when camping. Be prepared with midge net and repellent. Clegs can be a nuisance at various locations such as Glen Rosa on Arran, but are not usually a problem on the crags. Ticks on these Islands carry Lyme disease and because of the mild climate ticks are active throughout the year. If is worth wearing long trousers with elasticated ankles to stop ticks, or apply insect repellent. Check for ticks at the end of the day and remove any found. An early indication of Lyme disease is a circular outwardly expanding skin rash round the site of the bite. If you see this go to a doctor as soon as possible.
Hostile Habitats is a very informative book on Scotlandâ€™s mountain environment. The Islands of Scotland including Skye describes many details on the Scottish Islands. For details, see the SMC booklist at the end of this guide.
Rock Climbing Grades
Traditional Climbs. The grading system ranges from Easy, Moderate, Difficult, Very Difficult, Severe, Hard Severe, Very Severe, Hard Very Severe to Extremely Severe. The Extremely Severe grade has been subdivided into E1, E2 and so on. In this guide the grades are abbreviated to M, D, VD, S, HS, VS, HVS, E1 etc. Technical grades are given for routes of S and above where known. The normal range for technical grades expected on routes of the given overall grade are as follows; S – 4a, 4b; HS – 4a, 4b, 4c; VS – 4b, 4c, 5a; HVS – 4c, 5a, 5b; E1 – 5a, 5b, 5c; E2 – 5b, 5c, 6a; E3 – 5c, 6a; E4 – 5c, 6a, 6b; E5 – 6a, 6b. Routes with a technical grade at the lower end of the range will be sustained or poorly protected, while those with grades at the upper end, are likely to have a shorter and generally well protected crux. Grading information is in some cases scanty or even lacking, particularly in some of the older or more obscure routes. Some of these routes have been graded VS without a technical grade, which can encompass anything from from VS to E2.
A summary of bouldering is given at the end of some chapters. There is a rapidly growing number of descriptions on the internet at <www.ukclimbing.com>, and <www.scottishclimbs.com>. Other publishers produce bouldering guides which cover some of these islands.
There are a number of Deep Water Solos in this guide, these are described with the other routes and mentioned at the end of the chapters. The generally accepted Dorset grading system is used; the French technical grade and the S (serious) grade. Checking for rocks before the tide comes in would be worthwhile. Falling badly into water, even if it is deep, can cause serious injury then there is added danger of shock with the cold water. Check tide tables (see above), and don’t climb alone. If new to DWS stick to S0 or S1. S0 These are essentially safe above mid-tide with the crux up to 9m up. S1 The water depth needs to be checked. Alternatively the route may have a high crux. S2 These might require a jump (rather than a fall) to reach the deepest water, the crux is often high up. S3 A connoisseur’s route; needs prior risk assessing, mandatory spring tides and good techniques for falling into shallow water. The crux is often high up.
Climbs have been graded using the two tier system. The technical grades, which are shown by the Arabic numbers, apply to the hardest move or crux sequence of a route, while the Roman numeral gives an indication of the overall difficulty of the climb. The combination of the two grades makes the system work in a similar way to how the E grades and the numerical grades are used in summer.
In this way a V,4 is normally a serious ice route, V,5 would be a classic ice route with adequate protection, V,6 would be a classic mixed buttress route and V,7 would indicate a technically difficult but well protected mixed buttress route. Each route is of the same overall difficulty (V) but with differing degrees of seriousness and technical difficulty. Both parts of the grading system are open ended.
Pegs & Bolts
Scotland has a tradition of climbs with leader placed protection. Placing pegs is considered unacceptable nowadays due to improvements in equipment and the option of move rehearsal having negated the need for hammered protection. Some established climbs have peg runners, a few of these have been upgraded because of the poor state of the pegs. Bolts are considered unacceptable on mountain cliffs and generally on sea-cliffs. A few cliffs meet accepted criteria as sport climbing venues.
If a route has been numbered, this indicates that there is a diagram, which will be found close to the relevant text. The numbers of the climbs in the text correspond to the numbers on the diagrams. So as not to clutter up the photos and obscure the features of the crags many numbered climbs are not shown on the diagrams. There are additional diagrams at www.colinmoody.com.
Left & Right
The terms generally refer to a climber facing the cliff. Routes are usually described from left to right. Sometimes it is more useful to describe climbs from right to left, in that case this is stated in the text before the route descriptions for that crag.
A star quality system has been used. No star routes may be good although nothing special, or eliminate in line, or information may be lacking. * Good climbing, but the route may lack line, situation or balance. ** A good route but lacking one or more of the features that make it a climb of the highest quality. *** A route of the highest quality, combining superb climbing with line, character and situation. **** The best climbs of their class in Scotland. In winter, quality will vary with conditions so stars, like grades, are applied for the conditions when the route is commonly climbed. In the best conditions the routes may justify more stars.
The year of the first ascent is given in the text. The full date and first ascensionists are listed by area in chronological order at the back of the guide. If climbed originally using aid, this is listed, usually with the first free ascent. Details of variations are given under the parent route. An ascent in winter conditions is indicated by a W.
CANNA, RUM, EIGG & MUCK
CANNA, RUM, EIGG & MUCK
<www.road-to-the-isles.org.uk> Canna, Rum, Eigg and Muck (known collectively as The Small Isles), lie between Skye and Mull they are all quite different in character. Canna the most northerly and most remote is fairly low lying with numerous dolerite crags. Rum, just to the south is the largest of the group with several impressive peaks rising up above 700m. Eigg is the second largest of these islands and is dominated by the spectacular high point, the Sgurr of Eigg. Muck the most southerly, is a small fertile island. Access: The usual sailings are with Caledonian MacBrayne or Arisaig Marine. Calmac sail from Mallaig to Canna, Rum, Eigg and Muck. The voyage may be direct or very slow, calling in at other islands, so check the timetable (01687 462403), <www.calmac.co.uk>. Arisaig Marine sail from Arisaig to Rum, Eigg and Muck (01687 450224), <www.arisaig.co.uk>. Scotrail run trains to Arisaig (Britain’s most westerly station) and Mallaig from Fort William (0845 6015929), <www.scotrail.co.uk>. There are also buses run by Citylink (0871 266 3333), <www.citylink.co.uk> and Shiel Buses (01967 431 272), <www.shielbuses.co.uk>. Maps: Ordnance Survey Landranger 1:50k Sheet 39 and Explorer 1:25k Sheet 397.
<www.road-to-the-isles.org.uk/canna> Accommodation: Bed and breakfast is available at Tigard (below House Crags). There is also self-catering accommodation, booked from the National Trust for Scotland (0844 493 2108), <www.nts.org.uk>. Camping near the church (5mins from the pier) is handy for the toilet at the pier, and the waiting room to escape the midges. There is a shower and toilet at the farm (a few minutes walk past the restaurant). There is also a campsite just west of Bunkhouse Crag. Amenities: There is a very limited shop.
Map p21, p22 Canna is an idyllic island, the most westerly of the Small Isles. The last to receive the attentions of rock climbers it now provides the highest concentration of easily accessible climbing on this group of islands. Routes often follow well protected cracks and most crags face south. There are some fine short lower grade routes on Lower House Crag, Bunkhouse Crag and Wave Crag and some impressive harder challenges on Upper House Crag and The Fortress. Protection is often excellent. Developments so far have predominantly centred on the south facing crags that lie above the harbour to Tarbert road. Belay stakes are in place above all the crags, Nunnery Crag and Creag Àrd have natural belays. The crags are described east to west starting from the harbour, then
<www.isleofrum.com> Accommodation: At the time of writing a temporary hostel was in use and a new hostel was planned for near by. See the island website for the current situation. There are two bothies, at Dibidil in the south-east (NM 393 927) and Guirdil in the northwest (NG 320 014). The campsite is between the pier and Kinloch Castle (take a midge net/suit!). Try to avoid the lochans if camping on the hills during the nesting season. Amenities: There is a small shop just north of Kinloch Castle. The village hall is open during the day with tea room, second-hand books and internet access.
<www.isleofeigg.net> Accommodation: There are bed and breakfasts and holiday cottages. The hostel is at Glebe Barn, 2km from the pier NM 483 852 <www.glebebarn.co.uk>. There is a campsite at Cleadale in the north west of Eigg. Amenities: The shop is near the pier, there are public toilets and showers there. There is a cafe with bar/restaurant near the pier and another restaurant at Cleadale.
<www.isleofmuck.com> Accommodation: There is a very warm bunkhouse conveniently near the pier. Booking from Rosie Soutter (01687 462042 – evenings). The Island also has a hotel, bed and breakfasts, holiday cottages and a yurt. People at the craft shop are happy to point out suitable campsites. Amenities: In summer the tea room/craft shop serves meals and sells home baked bread. Evening meals are also served at the tea room, meals are prepared fresh so booking beforehand is advisable (01687 462990/ 460057). The community hall near by has showers. those on the island of Sanday. While distances on the island are relatively small the unsurfaced road is well graded and a bicycle is highly recommended for quickly accessing the crags, though a short walk will see you at the foot of any of the crags in 20 to 40mins. West End Crag can be reached in 2hrs.
Map p22 There are two outcrops on the south side of Cnoc Bhrostan above the trees and easily seen from the pier. Lower House Crag in particular has a wide range of routes suitable to the middle grade climber. Approach: Follow the road past the tearoom until just
CANNA, RUM, EIGG & MUCK
11. Nunnery Crag .........p38 12. Dùn Teadh ..............p40 13. West End Crag .......p41 Càrn a’Ghaill
To Mallaig pier
CANNA past the phone box. Take the track on the right, when the track goes towards the wood continue up the hill and cross a stile, the crags are just above, 20mins from the pier.
LOWER HOUSE CRAG
(NG 273 057) Alt 90m South facing Diagram p23 The central and left-hand side of the crag are generally the cleanest with some fine cracks and corners. Descent: Down either side
1 First Crack 7m S (2002) At the right-hand end of the crag are corner-cracks facing each other, climb the right-hand crack.
2 Replica Corner 8m VS 5a (2002) Two metres to the left is another left-facing corner-crack. Pull up on to a flake on the left wall. Climb the corner to the top.
3 Lib Dem 8m HS (2000) Six metres left is a thin crack in a faint rib. Climb up to reach a good ledge and runners at 3m. Pull up to another ledge and finish steeply on the left.
Some 6m further left, and about 10m right of a big tree growing out from the rock, is a crack in a blunt rib between two small roofs at 5m.
4 One for the Masses 8m HS * (2005) Climb the steep initial crack to where the angle eases. Continue up the rib and finish up a short groove.
5 Drunken Opposition 8m HVS 5a (2005) Start 2m left and climb a crack in a left-facing groove to a small roof. Move up left around the roof and continue up the steep crack to the top.
6 Long Campaign 10m VS 5a (2005) Immediately left again, the next route takes twin cracks in a slightly flared square groove. Climb the groove with holds mainly in the right-hand crack and right arete.
7 Writing on the Wall 10m HVS 5b ** (2005) Some 12m left of the big tree growing from the rock is a large light coloured block at the foot of a V-groove, 2m right of this is a curved crack with unusual honeycombed weathering features on its left wall. Climb the crack mainly using holds on the wall to either side.
8 V Groove 10m HVS 5a (2005) From the block climb a combination of the V-groove and a crack in its right wall to about halfway then pull back left into the groove to finish.
9 Whipped Up 10 E1 5c (2011) Just left of the large light coloured block is a prominent chimney with a square-cut overhang at three-quarters height. Climb to the overhang and move left to finish up The Whip.
10 The Whip 10m E2 5c * (2005) Immediately left again is a thin vertical crack. Climb a short jam crack to a ledge on the left. The thin crack above is deceptively steep and awkward.
11 SS Cracks 10m VS 4c (2005) Two metre left again are two prominent S shaped cracks. Climb the cracks on good holds to a short steep final section.
12 Gritstone Dream 10m E3 6a (2011) Immediately left of SS Cracks are twin recessed cracks leading to a roof with two grooves above. Follow the cracks to the roof then pull round this and enter the left groove for a move before finishing up the right groove.
Some 13m further left the next obvious landmark at the
Ferry to Mallaig
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.
House Crags ...................p20 Upper House Crag...........p24 Bunkhouse Crags ...........p25 Upper Bunkhouse Crag ...p28 The Watch Tower ............p29 Wave Crag .....................p29 The Fortress .................p34
8. 9. 10. 11. 14. 15.
Half Dome .........p35 Andrew’s Crag ...p36 Corner Crag .......p38 Nunnery Crag ....p38 Creag Àrd .........p41 Suileabhaig .......p44
base of the crag is a broken ledge with a small tree at 2m. The next route takes the short jam crack emanating from the right-hand side of this ledge. 13 Bipartisan Jam 10m HVS 5a (2005) Go up a short rib to the right-hand end of the grassy ledge. Stand on a flake at the bottom of the crack and climb steeply to a large ledge. Easily up left to finish.
18 Backbencher 10m VS 4c (2005) Just left again, this route takes a wide chimney-crack in a V-groove.
19 Casting Vote 10m E1 5c (2005) Two metres left is a thin crack in the face of the next buttress. Climb this to reach good holds on the righthand rib. A difficult move left gains the final part of the crack.
This buttress lies to the left of the ledge mentioned in route description above and provides some of the best and longest routes on the crag.
20 Postal Vote 8m VS 5a (2005) The last route on Pete’s Buttress is a short chimney-crack in a left-facing corner. Climb the widening crack past several chockstones to the top.
15 Royal Assent 12m E1 5c ** (2005) Some 4m left past a blank looking groove is a curving crack in the nose of the buttress. Climb the awkward crack with holds on the left wall and arete.
21 Faint Heart 9m E2 6a * (2005) Good technical climbing up the crack-line 2m left of Postal Vote. Move up to gain a ledge on the right then difficult moves up the thin crack to finish.
14 The Coalition 10m VS 4c * (2005) Just left of the broken ledge are twin cracks in a groove, climb the groove.
16 Black Rod 12m E1 5c * (2005) Takes the next crack on the left side of the nose of the buttress. Up the thin rounded crack with holds on the right arete until a pull back left can be made into the final wider section.
17 The Mace 12m VS 5a (2005) A metre left is a prominent left-facing crack. Follow the chimney, which widens to an awkward finish.
The back wall between Pete’s and Keith’s Buttresses contains a number of thin blind cracks and two very good and technically difficult undertakings.
22 Wild Thing 9m E4 6b * (2005) Some 2m left again are two parallel thin curving cracks on the left side of the back wall. Start up the left-hand crack on good widely spaced holds to half-height. Continue with difficulty to the top.
The next buttress is identifiable from its white speckled
23 The Chamber 10m VS 4c Climb the corner-cracks.
(2005) 24 Taking the Mickey 10m HVS 5a * Two metres down to the left on the front face of the buttress is an obvious jam crack. Pull up to a ledge and enter the steep jamming crack, which widens awkwardly towards the top.
25 Equal Opportunities 12m VS 4c * (2005) On the front of Keithâ€™s Buttress are twin converging cracks in a white speckled wall. Move up left into the cracks and climb these to finish up a short V-groove. 26 Dinky 12m VS 5a (2005) Start 2m left at the lowest point of the buttress. Climb two cracks in a groove to reach the top of a large pillar on the left. Step back right to finish up the wide crack.
27 Upwardly Mobile 12m VS 5a (2005) Just around to the left are two thin cracks leading to the top of the same pillar as the previous route. Steep moves up the cracks gain the ledge on the pillar. Finish up the short groove.
28 Question Time 10m VS 4c (2005) The last route on this buttress is 1m left. Climb the leftfacing corner-crack to the top. 29 First Among Equals 10m HVS 5a ** (2005) About 2m left of the corner is a striking hand crack on the right-hand side of an undercut pillar. Climb up over the initial bulge and continue up the crack above.
30 Frozen Fingers 10m HS 4b (2005) The left-facing corner-crack forming the other side of the pillar.
31 Blocky Groove 7m VD (2005) About 2m left is a broken buttress with a blocky groove on its left side. Pull up steeply and step up left into the groove. Continue easily to the top.
(2005) 32 Pick Pocket 9m E1 5c Some 2m left again is a thin intermittent crack. Follow the line of the crack with technical moves on rounded slots and pockets.
33 The Iron Lady 12m HVS 5b ** (2005) Three metres left is a very striking wide crack forming the right-hand side of a detached pillar. Follow the classic off-width crack, which gradually widens towards the top. 34 True Colours 12m VS 4c * (2005) The left side of the detached pillar forms an open Vchimney. A very pleasant route with an awkward finish.
35 Political Divide 12m HVS 5b (2005) On the left wall of the V-chimney is a wide flake-crack. Climb the flake-crack to a small overhang. Make a bold move across to the left and finish up the steep crack.
36 Berlin Wall 10m HVS 5b * (2005) Around to the left 2m are two vague converging cracks in a wall. Climb up past an obvious pocket to a hold on the right rib. Awkward balance moves follow to gain the rounded upper crack and the top. 37 Communist Crack 8m HS 4b (2005) A metre to the left is a wide broken crack. An awkward start leads to easier climbing.
38 Last Gasp 7m VS 5a (2005) Just left again is a short curving crack. Climb this and the rib on its left to reach better holds on the right.
This is the last described route, though more short lines and problems can be found.
CANNA â€“ Lower House Crag
2. 3. 4. 5. 6.
Replica Corner Lib Dem One for the Masses Drunken Opposition Long Campaign
VS 5a HS HS * HVS 5a VS 5a
7. 8. 10. 15. 18.
Writing on the Wall V Groove The Whip Royal Assent Backbencher
HVS 5b ** HVS 5a E2 5c * E1 5c ** VS 4c
21. 24. 29. 33.
Faint Heart Taking the Mickey First Among Equals True Colours
E2 6a * HVS 5a * HVS 5a ** VS 4c *
rock. The first route is the big right-facing corner, which forms the left-hand end of the back wall.
CANNA â€“ Wave Crag West & South
3 4 6
1. 3. 4. 5.
Minnow The Wrong Trousers Ernsie Bay Side Surf
D S VD S
provides some excellent vertical crack-lines. The first of these is a bow shaped crack in a slim left-facing corner, v1m right of Myrtle the Turtle.
8 The Pipeline 16m HVS 5a * (2003) Climb the crack, the first 5m being the crux, to where the angle eases. Continue in the same line to the top.
9 Canna Jammer 16m E1 5c * (2004) Takes the prominent crack and right-facing corner on the opposite side of the slim pillar to The Pipeline. Follow the steep jamming crack to just below a small capping roof at 10m. Pull out left into The Pipeline and finish up this.
10 Big Sur 16m E1 5c *** (2003) The next vertical crack-line is a slim left-facing corner 2m right of the last route. Start just left of a short V-groove capped by a big square block at 6m. Make an awkward move onto a slabby shelf at the foot of the corner, then a difficult move to get started on the crack itself. Follow the corner-crack throughout, with holds appearing just
6. 7. 8. 10.
Finding Nemo Myrtle The Turtle The Pipeline Big Sur
VS 4c * S* HVS 5a * E1 5c ***
when you need them.
11 Heroes and Villains 16m E3 6a ** (2006) Takes twin thin cracks in the nose of the south face. Start up the short V-groove capped by a big square block and pull up right onto a ledge. Step up left onto the highest ledge and climb the steep twin cracks to the top; fine, sustained and technical climbing.
12 Wipe Out 16m E4 6a ** (2005) Another fine route giving technical climbing on thin finger slots. Start on the right-hand side of the face and climb the stepped blocks leftwards to gain the highest ledge. Step across right to reach twin thin cracks in a slight groove and follow these direct to the top.
13 The Tube 15m E1 5b * (2003) The final route on the south face, where the crag starts to turn easterly. Climb parallel cracks in an inset square corner formed between two pillars. A difficult start and some technical moves lead to better holds. Pull onto the top of the left hand pillar to finish
Breaker, HS, Wave Crag East. climber Cynthia Grindley (photo Colin Moody)
pier Loch Long
Alt Mòr na h-Uamha
1 Abhainn a’ Ghlinne
Fiachanais (Sandy Corrie)
Loch Coire nan Grunnd
Bealach an Oir
Bealach an Fhuarain
Beinn nan Stac
Leac a’ Chaisteil
Rubha Sgòrr an t-Snidhe
Stac nam Faoileann
Sgùrr nan Gillean
Fist & Finger Stack
RUM 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
Barkeval, South Crags............................p45 Hallival, South-East Face.......................p47 Halival, West Face .................................p49 Askival, The Prow, Coire nan Grunnd ......p51 Askival, The Prow, Clough’s Crag ...........p52
6. 7. 8. 9. 10.
Askival, North-West Face ........p53 Trollabhal, Harris Buttress ........p54 Trollabhal, Triangular Buttress ...p56 Trollabhal, Longship Crag .........p56 Ruinsival, North-West Face .....p57
Christopher 45m S (1975) This climb on the gully wall of Broad Buttress may be the same as one recorded as Guinness. Gain a chimney and follow this to a ledge (15m). Move up right, make an exposed step up and left (crux), then follow a crack and a chimney, ending high on Broad Buttress (30m). Half a Gale Slab 60m S (1989) The slab forming the left side of Narnia Arete resembles the dried-up wall of a reservoir but is sound rock.
Narnia Arete 105m M (1967) Climb the distinctive and conspicuous arete east of Broad Buttress, keeping to the sharp crest. Interesting and varied climbing. Honeycomb Arete 105m E The usual descent route.
Aficionado 50m S (1982) The wide gully to the east of Honeycomb Arete has a subsidiary gully on its left with a chimney at the back. This route takes the prominent crack running up the right-hand slab from the subsidiary gully. Belay at a large overhung niche (25m). Take the overhang direct, then traverse to easier ground following an obvious intrusive band of rock (25m).
Slab of Tranquility 130m S (2005) Descend an open grassy gully to the east of Honeycomb Arete and Aficionado to arrive at the base of an area of slabs. 1. 45m Ascend a raised red coloured slab (with lower darker slabs either side) and climb directly to a triangular niche. 2. 35m Exit the niche on the left and ascend a fault-line for 4m until able to gain the right-hand fault-line which is ascended passing two largish blocks. Go up a steeper groove, move left and climb to a large ledge with a conspicuous block at its extremity. 3. 50m Continue scrappily to cross a grassy rake, ascend a prow and continue to finish near the top of Honeycomb Arete.
(NM 395 962) Alt 722m Climbing is found on Hallival on the south-east face and on the west face. Approach: From Coire Dubh, traverse the slopes to reach the base of the south-east face cliffs, or cross the broad ridge to traverse in below the crags of the west face. Allow about 1hr 30mins from Kinloch. The southeast face can also be approached via the Dibidil path,
which is quit at the Allt Mor na h-Uamha, but the going is difficult and it is not recommended.
(NM 396 962) Alt 630m South-East facing Map p46 Diagram p48 This is split into three tiers, the Bottom, Middle and Summit Tiers. The Bottom Tier gives climbing only at the right-hand end, where Oxford Groove starts and continues up through the Middle Tier. The Middle Tier provides the bulk of the climbing and has the conspicuous Allival Slab at its right end. The Summit Tier stands well back from the Middle Tier, diminishing to a rocky step at the right end above Allival Slab. Descent: Easy ascents or descents can be made of the Bottom and Middle Tiers by the gully bounding the left end (looking up) of the Allival Slab, and by traversing lines on the slab (see below). To the right (again looking up) one can quickly descend easy ground beyond the East Ridge, but take care as the green, hummocky slopes are riddled with Shearwater burrows. The big scooped V-gully left of the centre of this face, above the large wide scree chute, is not a descent. For routes further left, a descent can be made just left of Ashes â€“ D at most. Start at a large block at the top of the gully (cairn) and bear left then right. This is steep at the foot, but there is a good spike at 4m. Alternatively, it may be just as quick for most to use the South Ridge. One can escape from the V-gully at the bottom of the Middle Tier by moving right up easy slabs to gain a green gully leading to the top of the tier.
1 Choochter Rib 70m VD (1967) This climbs to the Bottom Tier, following a blunt rib with a slabby right wall leading to the foot of Oxford Groove. It can be used as an approach to the climbs, if you can find it. Start from the lowest rocks and keep close to the rib. Climb a 3m slab on the right, gain a shelf on the left and mantelshelf onto a flake on the nose. An awkward move lands one on a ledge in an overhanging recess, belay (20m). Climb a short chimney, then go right and climb the crest (15m). Follow the ridge above to the top.
2 East Ridge 60m D (1931/32) The description and history of this route is unclear. The Bottom Tier was originally climbed via a groove to the right of a small overhang at the foot of the ridge. The following year a gully to the north of this was taken to the grass terrace, and the Middle Tier ascended by a short, narrow chimney a few metres to the right.
3 Breeze 20m S (1967) The right wall of the lower section of Oxford Groove is a smooth slab which breaks into cracks higher up. Start at the extreme right and climb straight up. Variation: 20m S (1990) Climb Oxford Groove for 3m, then make a right-rising traverse onto a wall for 5m. From a broad ledge climb a
Black and Tan 50m S (1975) Start well up the gully between Broad Buttress and Narnia Arete. Climb a black streaked slab to a corner with a grass ledge and poor belay (15m). Take the paler slab above, crux at the start, to a good stance (20m). Follow a slab and the corner above to a cairn (15m).
HALLIVAL â€“ South-East Face 15
3. 4. 6. 8. 9.
Breeze Oxford Groove Gargoyle Chimney Salad Days Diamond Corner
S S S VS S
10. 11. 12. 13. 14.
Haddie Sunny Side Thumbs Cambridge Arete Red Brick
short arete, then traverse left to a crack-line. Follow this to the terrace.
4 Oxford Groove 60m S (1933) This is the obvious stepped V-groove which cleaves both Bottom and Middle Tiers at the right-hand end. A good route.
5 Relish 20m HVS (1984) Climb the rib between Oxford Groove and Gargoyle Chimney by following the left-slanting line in the wall to an obvious crack in the pocketed wall. Finish up the rib above.
6 Gargoyle Chimney 25m S (1966) The obvious chimney left of Oxford Groove, with a projecting chockstone at the base. Pull over the gargoyle and climb the chimney.
7 Honky Tonk 25m VS (1992) This route follows the obvious line just left of Gargoyle Chimney. It may share some climbing with the next route.
8 Salad Days 25m VS (1984) Starting 4m right of Diamond Corner, climb a steep cracked wall to blocks, then traverse briefly right and go up corners to the top.
9 Diamond Corner 20m S (1967) This route lies some 10m left of Gargoyle Chimney and comprises a groove with a squarish diamond shaped overhang at a little over half-height. Climb the corner, passing the overhang on the right, then bear left to the
S S S S D
15. 16. 19. 20. 21.
Allival Slab Flake & Crack Route Nice and Easy Asphodel Lotos
D VD S VS S
crest and follow this to the top.
10 Haddie 20m S (1974) This follows an obvious line up the wall left of Diamond Corner. Start at a sentry box and follow the crack to the top.
11 Sunny Side 20m S (1967) Left of Haddie is a big dirty corner-chimney with an impressive left wall, then an overhanging arete left again, then some cracks springing from a roof. Start left of these. Climb to a pedestal, move onto a pock marked band, then bear left a few metres before finishing up a crack slightly right.
12 Thumbs 20m S (1974) Climb the smaller groove right of the upper pitch of Oxford Groove, passing a pinnacle at 7m.
13 Cambridge Arete 25m S (1951/52) The arete left of the upper pitch of Oxford Groove. Move up blocks left of the overhang, climb a deep 4m groove, then traverse to the arete and follow it to finish by an awkward crack. A good route.
14 Red Brick 20m D (1961) Start as for Cambridge Arete, but instead of traversing right go left onto the edge of the Allival Slab. Move up the edge for a few metres, then slant left up an obvious series of ledges to finish easily beside the top of Cambridge Arete.
16 Flake and Crack Route 35m VD (1966) A third of the way along under the overhangs below Allival Slab there is a corner. The flake up which the route used to start now lies on the corrie floor. An alternative start (1990) traverses in from the bottom left corner of Allival Slab to an obvious small pinnacle; junction with the original route. Climb straight up the slab above to an obvious steep crack.
17 Allivalhalla 35m VD (1990) Gain the bottom left corner of Allival Slab and make an easy rising traverse into a vegetatious crack heading to an obvious corner. Where the slab steepens before the corner, move 3m right and follow a thin crack to the left of a detached block, exiting onto an easier angled slab to the left of an obvious block which forms a horizontal overhang.
18 Helen’s Horror 45m VD (1966) About 4m left of the Allival Slab there is a deep chimney. Bridge this to the overhang, make an awkward step right, then climb grass and easy rock to a small cave. Leave this by crawling along a small ledge on the right, then finish up a short wall.
19 Nice ‘n’ Easy 20m S 4b (1990) About 20m left of the gully bounding the left edge of Allival Slab is a +small pyramid shaped buttress. Climb the well defined left-bounding arete, with an entertaining finish.
20 Asphodel 50m VS (1966) Round the corner to the left of Allival Slab are three deep grooves. This is the middle one, about 30m left of Helen’s Horror. Traverse onto the arete on the right, then follow a slanting crack to the foot of a vertical 4m crack in the right wall. Climb this strenuously to good finishing holds on the right and continue to a stance among piled blocks (35m). Continue up a crack formed by two of the blocks to a rocky hollow. Finish up a crack directly ahead, passing an overhanging block on the left.
21 Lotos 70m S (1966) Climb the leftmost of the three grooves previous mentioned in Asphodel. Pass an overhang on the right at 8m and at the top traverse left by a rocky ramp and go up into an amphitheatre of loose earth and rocks. Finish by traversing piled blocks on the right and climbing the second groove beyond, or better by a
layback crack (4b) immediately above the line of the groove.
22 Ashes 25m VD (1966) The central section of the east face, between Allival Slab and the big scooped V-gully, is divided by two streams. Start a few metres to the left of the right-hand stream. Climb a steep groove with an overhang about threequarters height.
23 Amaranth 30m S (1966) This climb lies several buttresses to the right of the big V-gully. A crack runs up the middle of a wall which is set back in the crags. A small projecting block in the crack is a distinctive feature. Start at a small cave (cairn) beside an arete right of a line of easy slabs. Climb an overhang and a small slab, then move easily to a ledge below a crack. Follow the crack up the wall, past a projecting block, to finish just right of a triangular recess containing a square block. 24 Moly 30m VD (1966) This route follows a wide, obvious groove situated midway between the V-gully and the Askival col. Start by a dyke behind a flake on the right wall. Step into the groove about 6m up and when this becomes a deep crack move into the chimney on the right. This has a loose protruding flake at the bottom, more large blocks and a capstan above; it sounds like a delicate tread might be an advantage. 25 Midge 25m VD (1966) Start about 65m right of the South Ridge of Hallival. Climb a V-groove with an obliquely jammed block halfway up and a large square-cut overhang at the top, avoided on the left.
26 Midgeless 20m D (1966) Starting 15m left of Midge, climb a steep corner-crack to an awkward finish on the right.
27 Frustration 15m S (1967) Climb the first obvious double decker incut corner on the tier, right of the top of the escape route from the Vgully.
28 Corner Crack 10m S (1966) Above Ashes the tier is cut by an obvious steep corner. Scramble from a cairn and climb the corner.
(NM 394 962) Alt 670m West facing Map p46 The climbing is on a compact crag high on the west face, just below the summit and overlooking Atlantic Corrie. Viewed from below the most prominent feature is the Western Slab, to the left of which is Western Wall. Right of Western Slab is Hourglass Buttress, easy angled in its lower part but with a fine steep slab above the grassy
15 Allival Slab 45m D (1935) This slab is bounded on the left by a gully which gives an easy line of ascent or descent. A 4m crack in its right wall gives access to the bottom left corner of the slab. Two lines are described, both about the same grade. An easy right-rising traverse leads to the top of the slab, whence a short steep crack in the wall above leads to the crest of the East Ridge some 20m left of the top of Oxford Groove. Alternatively, the slab may be traversed at a lower level until it steepens, with small holds and fine exposure. Climb up and slightly right to end near the top of Oxford Groove.
ledge at the buttress waist. Right of this is a broken area of ribs, the Central Ribs, ending in a prominent V-groove which bounds the left edge of Western Ridge. To the right of this the rocks become lower and more broken. There are easy descents at either end of the crag. To the left of Western Wall is a chockstone filled gully. The first two routes lie on either side of the gully.
Wander 20m S 4b (1995) Climb the right-hand edge of the wall to the left of the chockstone filled gully.
Dog Day Sunrise 20m VS (1995) Climb the bulging crack immediately to the right of the chockstone gully, and exit right at the top.
Grendel 20m VS (1990) From the left end of Western Wall, climb a black streaked wall and groove to ledges. Climb steeply up the right wall, mantelshelf onto an overhanging ledge and finish up an overhanging crack. Fugazi 20m VS (1990) Starting 10m left of Troll Corner, climb a blunt nose to gain an obvious niche. Climb the steep right wall to a small ledge, then bridge up to mantelshelf onto an overhanging block. Move left and climb the steep headwall, traversing right to a break, then climb a corner to the top.
Troll Corner 20m VS (1990) At the junction of Western Wall and the sidewall of Western Slab, climb a steep corner-crack with an overhanging direct exit. Continue up a slab to finish left of a rock gargoyle. An excellent, sustained line.
Left Edge 25m VD Climb the extreme left edge of Western Slab.
Slab Direct 25m VD (1990) Climb straight up the centre of Western Slab, finishing to the right of the rock gargoyle.
Cullie’s Route 25m VD (1990) This route climbs the right side of Western Slab, to the right of the scrappy groove.
Atlantic Highway 25m S 4b (1995) Climb two slabs from the lowest point of Hourglass Buttress with increasing interest to reach a sloping grassy ledge. Move left and climb up to below an overhanging crack. Climb the crack on good holds.
Moss Slab 10m S (1990/95) This lies on the upper section of Hourglass Buttress. Climb from the bottom left corner, traverse onto the slab, and climb it to the top. Variation: Direct Start This makes the best use of the slab. Scramble from the right-hand side of Hourglass Buttress to reach a sloping grassy ledge. Start by the left-hand corner as for the
normal route, but traverse across a niche to gain the bottom left-hand side of the slab. Climb the slab directly.
Bishop’s Groove 20m S (1990) This route takes the obvious V-groove to the left of Western Ridge. Scramble up some loose blocks to belay at sound rock. Climb the groove to the top. Pandora’s Box 35m S (1990) Start at the left edge of Western Ridge. Climb a narrow slab and a left-facing corner to a large overhang which is turned on the right. Climb a V-groove to a steep wall, which is climbed using the left side crack to an overhanging prow and belay. Traverse 5m right and climb an easy open V-groove above. A good route.
Western Ridge 45m S (1990) From the lowest rocks, climb directly to a belay at an overhang. Climb this to the end of continuous climbing at 25m. Continue over two short walls separated by grass ledges.
(NM 393 952) Alt 812m Map p46 This is the highest and arguably the finest of the Rum mountains. There is climbing on all sides, although only a limited amount is on the upper part of the mountain, and that mainly on the North-West Face. The remainder of the climbing is found on crags on the east flank. Approach: Via the Allt Slugan path and a traverse along the west side of Hallival to reach the bealach between Hallival and Askival.
(NM 392 955) Alt 700m North facing This was first climbed by Munro in the 1890s. It provides the most interesting section of ridge on Rum, giving about 180m of scrambling with a 10m step, the so called ‘Pinnacle’ which is climbed direct at M.
The steep west flank is difficult of access and has one recorded route.
Zigzag 40m S (1966) After climbing the Pinnacle the ridge levels for a bit. At the next steepening, descend the gully to the west (right). Facing the ridge again, the route climbs the buttress to the south (right), ending on the top of the step. Start at the lowest rocks by right-bearing cracks to avoid an overhang. Move up and traverse left to climb up the edge of the gully to a stance at the end of a ledge. Either climb the groove above or follow the ledge to the right until it is possible to climb up. Continue to the top of the step.
(NM 393 951) Alt 730m South-East facing
(1938) Ogilvieâ€™s Ridge 60m D South of the East Ridge is a shallow gully and beyond this and about a third of the way across the face is a steep, well defined ridge. The rock is good. About halfway up, 4m short of the top of a 20m chimney, finish right on a steep exposed slab. Climb the narrow pinnacle above on the right to the neck beyond. Follow the exposed edge and traverse several easy pinnacles to finish about 40m from the summit cairn.
Rouma Route 60m VD (1976) This is probably a variation on the previous route. South of the East Ridge are some scree filled gullies, beyond which lies a prominent slab split by a chimney (cairn). Climb the chimney, or harder, the slab, then two small steps leading to a steepening (25m). A chimney above leads to a serrated crest with a vertical step (20m). Ogilvie turned this on the right, but either of the two corners on the left is better. If the first corner is chosen, it should be quit before it ends to step right onto a narrow crest which ends the route. Scrambling lands one about 12m from the summit of Askival.
(NM 401 953) Alt 580m North-East & SouthEast facing The East Ridge of Askival flattens and widens as it drops eastwards and forms a distinct prow at about 550m. It has cliffs on both facets, those on the north-east side overlooking Coire nan Grunnd, and those on the southeast side overlooking Coire nan Stac.
Coire nan Grunnd
(NM 400 954) Alt 500m North-East facing Map p46 The crags lie on the north-east flank of Askival Prow, overlooking Loch Coire nan Grunnd. At the left (south) end of the long escarpment is an obvious buttress split by two prominent chimney-cracks. In the middle is Central Buttress, which has several fierce cracks of over 30m (mostly unclimbed). To the right is a prominent roof capped corner.
Valhalla 20m VS (1975) This climb follows the steep crack immediately round the arete to the left of Calder Chimney. Climb Calder Chimney for 10m then traverse left at the edge and finish up cracks above.
Calder Chimney 35m VD (1967) Start at the left end of the buttress, at the left-hand chimney-crack with an arrow at the start. Climb the chimney to a ledge on the right, then traverse left across the chimney to climb the left arete to big blocks (20m).
Follow the chimney to the top.
Fylde Crack 40m VD (1967) Start at an arrow just right of the right-hand chimneycrack. Climb up, then left by a narrow slanting crack to join the main chimney. From the top of this climb the slab on the right. Striding Edge 30m VD (1967) Start at an arrow 20m right of Fylde Crack. Climb the slabby arete and cracked wall above to a ledge (20m). Climb the overhanging crack and the awkward groove above.
Grunt 15m S (1967) Climb the slanting crack up the smooth wall just right of Striding Edge. The following three routes lie near the left end of the Central Buttress on or adjacent to a prominent arete.
Skrymir 35m S (1975) Start on the arete, move up to a prominent left-slanting crack and follow it to a ledge (20m). On the wall above are two cracks; climb the left-hand one (15m). Asgard 20m S Climb the obvious groove right of the arete.
The Pink 30m VS (1975) Take the second corner to the right of Asgard, just right of the highest part of the face. Climb jamming cracks to a ledge, then follow the right-hand corner-cracks to the top.
The following four routes lie on or adjacent to the prominent roof capped corner.
Tyke Arete 20m VD Takes the arete left of the roof-capped corner.
Trundle 20m S The corner just left of Layback Crack.
Layback Crack 20m S (1967) Takes a prominent crack in the middle of shallow bay to the right of the roof capped corner.
Grease Crack 20m VD (1967) The chimney-crack a few metres right of Layback Crack.
Below Coire nan Grunnd, between the two main burns draining the corrie and the loch respectively, is a crag facing roughly north-east, the most notable feature of which is a big blank slab. At the extreme northern end is a short wall, then a grassy gully, on the left of which is a north-facing wall taken by the following climb.
Pineapple Wall 35m S (1991) Start at the base of a wide, greasy oblique crack. Once off the ground, traverse left a short way to the next crack where it widens into a scoop. Climb the wall above to
This face is broken by a number of ridges which all end on the small summit plateau. Locating climbs here has proved to be beyond all current authors, and the two descriptions will provide a challenge to those so inclined.
The fifth step on Giantâ€™s Staircase, VD, Ruinsival North-West Face, climber Kath Tighe. The backdrop is Harris Buttress on Trollabhal (photo Mick Tighe)
RUINSIVAL – North-West Face A. B. C. D. E.
Fiachanis Face.........................p57 Giant’s Staircase (top of).......... p57 Lower Tier – North Buttress......p59 Lower Tier – Woden’s Wall....... p60 Lower Tier – Thor’s Buttress.... p60
North Corner 35m VD (1945/6) Climb a groove just right of the north corner and finish up the fine slab. Variation: Slab Start 30m M (2013) This offers a much better start. Start from a recess just round the corner and climb the nice east facing slab.
Right of North Corner is a recess with an overhang at 8m. Right again is a fine wall with a wide crack up the middle. Cuillin View 40m VS 4c (2013) Climb the crack to a fine, grassy ledge at 15m. Make a spectacular exit out left to easier ground above.
Riona 35m S (1959) About 30m right of North Corner there is a 12m flake with a damp gully to the left and a wet overhang high on the right. Climb from a cairn up the most prominent part of the flake to a stance at 12m. Move left, and swing round by a perched block to a large, possibly unsound ledge. Go up the steep wall above, moving slightly right, to finish directly above the start.
Slab and Groove 45m VD (1945/6) A few metres left of the centre of the buttress there is an obvious break in the rock wall. Follow a slab rightwards, then climb an awkward groove left to a triangular grass ledge. Quit this by the slab on the right, or (harder) straight up.
F. G. H. I.
Lower Tier – Frigga’s Buttress..........p60 Middle Tier – Highlander’s Buttress.. p61 Middle Tier – Green Wall.................. p62 Summit Tier.....................................p62
Cracked Rib 45m VS 4c ** (1950) A few metres left of Demolition Crack is a rib with an overhanging base and split by a vertical crack. Cairn. Go up 20m past a heather shelf to a recess under and just right of the rib; spike belay. Traverse to the rib and follow it on the right to a shelf and belay. Climb the final part on the left of the rib.
Perdita’s Traverse 40m VD (1959) Left of the start of Slab and Groove is an arete and two grooves. Climb the left-hand groove to a broad ledge. From its right end, climb down round an airy corner and go right into the right-hand groove. Take the projecting staircase on the right side of this groove, crux, to a large stance on the arete. Finish up the right side of this.
Perdita’s Groove 30m S (1960) This route takes the groove to the right of the previous route. Follow the groove straight to the top, with a good stance halfway. If the stance is reached from the broad ledge on Perdita’s Traverse, then the standard is only VD.
Demolition Crack 35m S (1947) This fine climb is much more logical using the variation start. To the left of the south corner of the buttress is a deep groove which cuts the face, V shaped in its lower part. Climb a subsidiary groove 6m further left to a flake at 15m. Traverse right to enter a corner in the main groove and ascend directly. Variation: 20m VD (1950) Climb the main groove direct.
Construction Wall 40m D ** (2013) This is the excellent cracked wall around the corner on the west face. South Corner 30m M Climb up just right of the corner.
Sloping Ledge 25m VD (1947) Start directly above Demolition Crack at a cairn. Ascend to a sloping ledge beneath a large funnel of slabs. Either enter the funnel at the end of the ledge (S), or continue right over a groove and go up to the top.
Airy Mary 35m VD (1947) Start at a cairn and climb a corner-crack 12m left of the rib on the left of Bill’s Finish. Continue very steeply thereafter, then the angle eases and the rock becomes loose. Finish by a slab and rib to the left.
Sentry’s Sortie 30m VD (1959) Between the central break in the face and the South Corner there is a large shattered arete. Start 4m to its left (cairn) and take a steep 6m crack over two ledges to the crest of the arete. Follow this a short way to a grassy platform and block belay. Cross the groove to the right, then
climb up, enter a sentry box to the right and exit by the corner above it (crux).
Groove and Chimney 30m D (1959) Take the groove right of the shattered arete to the grass platform of Sentry’s Sortie. Climb up 4m as for that route, then traverse left over a flake to a ledge, from where a short chimney leads to the top.
Bill’s Finish 30m D (1945/6) This goes up the very broken slab to the right of the central break. Woden’s Walk 35m VD (1947) Ascend the obvious crack to the right of the previous route. After the first pitch, traverse 25m right to near the top of Peretz Corner. Exposed.
Woden’s Crack 35m VD (1950) Start as for Woden’s Walk, but continue straight up the crack.
Billy The Kid 40m S * (2013) Between Woden’s Crack and Peretz Corner is a small rib/buttress reaching halfway up the crag. Climb the rib and fine wall above. Peretz Corner 35m D *** (1945/6) An excellent route on perfect rock. The big ridge to the right of the wall appears tower like from below. Start round the corner to the right. Peretz Wall 40m D *** (2013) The fine cracked wall a few metres right of Peretz Corner.
Chuckiestane Groove 35m S (1961) Start at a cairn at the highest point of the grass and scree between Woden’s and Thor’s Buttresses, below a wet groove between two overhangs. Climb the left wall until forced into the groove, the last few metres being the crux. Easier ground leads to a good stance at 20m. Continue up the groove at an easier angle and finish up a steep wall. Right-Hand Chimney 35m VD (1961) Far back on the left flank of Thor’s Buttress, to the right of previous route, are two obvious chimneys. Take the narrow, steep right-hand one throughout.
June Jigsaw 25m VD (1961) At the right flank of the buttress is a cairn at a large dissected slab. Follow the deep crack to the left, then go right by a ledge to a vertical crack. Climb this to blocks, then follow easy ground to the top. Cracked Rib, VS 4c, North Buttress, climber Kath Tighe (photo Mick Tighe)
Gothic Crack 20m VD (1961) There is a wide crack edging the huge frontal flake of this
Billy The Kid, S, Woden’s Buttress, climber Mick Tighe (photo Kath Tighe) buttress. Climb from the top of the arch up the centre to the top. Yellowstone Chimney 25m D (1961) The chimney between Frigga’s and South Buttress, with a yellow wall on the left. The crux is at the top.
Curving Chimney 25m D (1961) On the right flank, a deep damp chimney curves up right. Climb this on the left wall to chockstones and continue to an awkward exit.
South Crack 20m VD Go beyond Curving Chimney past a grassy overhung corner to a first weakness. Follow the steep crack above a big block, then climb the wall on the right and the steep nose.
(NM 352 941) Alt 320m North facing This comprises Highlander Buttress and Green Wall.
The Creep 15m D (1945/6) The face on the left of the buttress is bounded on the left by a grassy gully. Climb a crack in the gully and continue over a narrow exposed slab.
Fingerless 40m VS (1974) Climb the prominent crack 12m left of Seoras to a righttrending ledge. Follow this to the base of a crack and climb it to the top.
Seoras 45m VS (1966) This route gives one hard move leading to a rather loose chimney, which can also be reached by a traverse along the ramp-line from the left at VS 4c. Seen from afar, towards the right of the face is a dark triangular depression. Climb to the apex of the triangle, then go over this, crux, to a chimney. Follow the chimney and take the right fork to end at a cairn at the top of No.1 Arete.
Lady in the Loch 30m HVS 5a *** (2013) Start at the right-hand side of the crag. A diagonal black ramp leads to a small overhang. Follow the ramp to the overhang, surmount this and ascend fabulous cracks in the wall above to arrive on the ‘surprising pedestal’ of No.1 Arete, which is followed to the top.
PINNACLES, STACKS & SEA-CLIFFS
The next three routes are found around the arete and have obvious grooves in their top third, the first starts right of an overhanging recess.
(2009) Rum 15m VS 4c Start right of the overhanging recess and climb to wall to a ledge. Finish up the left-hand groove.
Sodomy 15m VS 5a (2009) Start up the steep wall directly below the less well defined middle groove. From the ledge finish up the middle groove. Lash 15m VS 4c (2009) The right-hand groove is steeper near the top but starts up easier angled rock below.
(NM 394 925) Tidal At the west side of the bay is a 10m stack with a smaller stumpier stack or boulder to its west. The stack can be reached at low tide by stepping across. The west face contains some hairy lichen and Wilderness Experience (10m VC 4c, 2009) goes up the wall and a faint V depression near the top at the right-hand side of the face. The seaward side of the stack offers an easy scrambling descent. The black east face offers Deep Water Solo (10m VS 4c, 2009) up the more broken features of the face immediately left of a blank and compact section of wall. There is some loose rock at the top.
(NM 364 918) Partially Tidal Map p46 This 15m high pinnacle sits at the head of the bay at the seaward end of Loch Papadil. Previous guides have described the easiest line as a scramble – this is not the case! In reality, the easiest line starts on the east face and then moves round to climb a deep crack in the seaward edge, giving an enjoyable 20m route (VD, 1984).
Rubha na Pairc
(NM 361 918) Partially Tidal West facing There are some excellent 10-15m routes west of Papadil.
Fist & Finger Stack
(NM 348 929) Tidal Map p46 South-east of Rubha Sgòrr an t-Snidhe, 3km south of Harris, there is a striking 25m high double stack joined by a neck to the shore and requiring low tide for the approach. Cross to the south end of the stack and go up to a pedestal. Follow weaknesses left, then go right to the final wall and overhang. Take the curving ‘pinky crack’ up left (VD, 1970).
Rubha Sgòrr an t-Snidhe
(NM 344 931) Tidal Map p46 On the main point, visible from Harris, is a small stack which needs low tide to get to the seaward side. From there, scramble up to a sneck at the north end, then climb onto the ‘sea roofs’ – two steep slabs, the first being crossed to its top right to gain the upper slab to the summit (VD, 1970).
(NM 333 991) Alt 571m Map p46 A line of steep cliffs lie to the north of the summit of Orval. A very impressive 30m high pinnacle stands at the foot of these cliffs at NM 334 996 It was originally ascended by lasso and Tyrolean traverse. The first conventional ascent included some flying time, due to the friable nature of the rock.
Orval Pinnacle 30m E3 5b (1984) Start at the slight groove in the east face of the pinnacle, just down from the neck. Climb the groove to a small ledge on the outward face. Climb the face, with a move left to gain another small ledge, then continue until a move onto the left edge allows the small flat topped summit to be gained (sustained climbing). A long sling should be carried for an abseil anchor.
(NG 317 014) Tidal North-West facing On the coast north of Orval, the western headland of this bay has an archway clearly seen from the descent into the bay. The arch and the small bay beyond may be reached at low tide by traversing along the landward wall on a shelf above the water or paddle westward into the smaller bay. The seaward leg of the arch may be reached by wading to chest height.
Underneath the Arches 25m S (2009) From the sea gain a ledge on the west side of the arch. The remainder of the arch is easy, with care being required with loose rock near the top.
Guirdil Pinnacle 20m S (2009) The small bay to the west of Guirdil Bay, accessed under the arch, contains a small stack accessible at low tide. Climb a corner or wall to a steep move onto a shoulder on the seaward side of the stack. Continue up the seaward side to the summit. A descent can be made by climbing down the landward side for a few metres to a sloping ledge which allows access back to the seaward face to down-climb the ascent route.
(NG 353 042) Partially Tidal North facing North west of Kilmory is a stony beach with a non-tidal stack and a larger rectangular stack (Tottering Stack) on
A. B. C. D. E. F. G. H. I.
The Nose Main Wall .................p66 Big Cave Buttress .....p70 The Slab ..................p70 Minor Buttress ..........p70 Chimney Buttress .....p70 Beehive Buttress ......p70 Ocean Wall ...............p71 Village Wall ..............p74
pinnacle big cave
Grulin Clach Hosdail
a rock platform. The following two routes lie on a crag to the east of the larger stack and facing it. Both are tidal. Kilmory is about 2hrs walk from Kinloch. Left Hand Crack 20m VD (2007) The left-hand of two cracks on the left side of the face.
The Indirect 25m S (2007) Climb the crack that leads into a recess in the middle of the face, step right and continue to the top.
Tottering Stack 35m VS (2010) The stack can be reached by a reached by a neck of land even at high tide and is climbed by the landward arete, the top half of which is loose and serious. 1. 20m 4a Climb the obvious corner-crack on good rock to reach the loose arete. Follow this easily to a good block belay 2. 15m 4a Continue up the arete to the foot of the upper tower. Move along a ledge on the east face and step onto a large block to reach the final arete leading to the top.
Just west of Tottering Stack is an impressive channel cutting into the cliff. The narrow promontory formed as a result is attached to Rum by two arches. The following route takes the fine west facing wall of the promontory, well seen from the other side of the channel. Cross either of the arches and abseil to gain a non-tidal ledge.
Double Trouble 12m E3 5c * (2010) Start below the centre of the wall. Move up and traverse left between two overlaps to gain a prominent line of flakes. Follow these up and right to reach a final thin vertical flake. Climb this and continue boldly to the top.
Few rock features in the British Isles can equal the grandeur of An Sgùrr. Its near 100m high vertical pitchstone nose dominates the island and provides a distinctive landmark when viewed from the mainland or adjacent islands. Almost all of the climbs recorded on Eigg are on the south and south-west facing cliffs of An Sgùrr and most routes dry quickly. There might be birds of prey nesting in spring but the crags are extensive so it should be possible to avoid them.
(NM 462 847) Alt 394m From The Nose, at the abrupt eastward termination of An Sgùrr, a great south facing pitchstone wall extends to the west to an obvious break. This face is known as Main Wall, and is divided into three sections by the great faults of Collie’s Cleft and Botterill’s Crack. Beyond the break lies Big Cave Buttress with The Slab above and Minor Buttress to the west. Next comes Chimney Buttress, with its distinctive grassy chimney, and then the fine dome shaped Beehive Buttress. After a wide gap in the crags, a boulder filled gully delineates the east flank of Ocean Wall, with its long, slabby upper face extending northwestwards. The final rock feature is Village Wall, separated from Ocean Wall by steep, broken ground. Characteristic of all these rock faces is a vegetated ledge line that girdles the crags at around half-height. With the exception of The Nose, all the climbs described lie on the clean upper tier, the lower tier being, in general, loose and vegetated. Banding the base of the upper tier, just above the ledge, a near continuous band of friable basalt presents problematic starts to many of the routes.
EIGG – An Sgùrr
EIGG – An Sgùrr, Main Wall right 9
2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.
The Nose The Groove Psycho Tales of the Unexpected Pitchstone Collie’s Cleft
E8 * E4 *** E2 *** VS ** HVS S
8. Stepping Out 9. The Flue 10. Eagle Chimney a
EIGG – The Nose Area 1
3 2 4
1. 2. 3. 4.
Line Your Pockets The Nose The Groove Psycho
E1 * E8 * E4 *** E2 ***
E1 ** VS VS
Approach: From the ferry terminal at Galmisdale follow the road for a short distance until a track leads left along the edge of the woods. Follow this in the direction of The Nose. After passing a house go through the gate and turn left to follow the track westward along the south side of the An Sgùrr, giving views of the various walls, to it’s termination at the lone cottage of Grulin. A path continues below the walls to the crumbling village of Grulin Lochdrach. Head up to the chosen wall when appropriate. Access through the broken lower tier to Long Ledge is discussed in each section. Descents: Descents to the south are described with the respective walls and buttresses. There is an easy descent to the north following the tourist path which bends round below the North Face of An Sgùrr and crosses moorland back towards the ferry terminal at Galmisdale.
(NM 461 846) Alt 250m South facing Map p65 Diagrams p66, 69 Approach: With the exception of Line Your Pockets, The Nose and Purphura, all the routes on Main Wall start from Long Ledge. This can be accessed via a number of routes, the easiest being the vegetated gully below Botterill’s Crack. A more direct access route to the central section of the wall starts directly below Collie’s Cleft and involves a few tricky moves up a rock edge on the right side of a shallow chimney. Descent: Between Main Wall and Big Cave Buttress, several descent or ascent routes are available either side of a small buttress. Care should be taken when
Adam Long on the first free ascent of The Nose, E8. descending the gully between Main Wall and the small buttress as it contains much loose rock.
The abrupt eastern termination of An Sgùrr is known as The Nose. It can be comfortably inspected from a grassy plinth below the face (accessed by a pleasant heathery ridge). The climbs are described from right to left.
1 Line Your Pockets 40m E1 5b * (2000) To the right of The Nose, the Main Wall terminates in a big vegetated corner system. Right of this is a clean, grey, pock marked wall. This route takes the main line of weakness up the middle of the wall. Approach up the heathery ridge directly below the Sgùrr. From a pinnacle at its highest point scramble up and left to belay at the top of a grassy slab. Climb the grey slab above leftwards and move up to where the wall steepens. Follow the easiest line up the centre to the top. Belay well back. (lots of slings are useful for spike runners).
2 The Nose 90m E8 * (2002) This long awaited free ascent was done in ‘headpoint style’ and is probably unrepeated to date. It supersedes the old aid route (A3, 1970) as the lines are largely coincident. Start at the foot of a left-slanting vague corner, directly beneath the central overhanging section and well below the heather ridge that abuts the face to the
right. 1. 30m 5c Follow a vague corner leftwards up the lower wall, stepping left to avoid a band of roofs, to a grass ledge (poor quality rock). 2. 60m 6c Traverse right along the ledge for 8m and then launch up through the roof on large but loose holds. A succession of hollow columns leads up the wall to the left of the old aid bolts, climbed by fingertip laybacking and long reaches off undercuts (in-situ RURP), to a hard move right to gain the undercut flake and bolts of the old belay. Easier but unprotected ground leads to the top. Belay well back on the trig point (an additional rope is required and is as well pre-placed).
3 The Groove 80m E4 *** (2000) An excellent route taking the prominent rightwards slanting groove some 15m left of The Nose. Approach along Long Ledge as for Psycho and continue right until below the line. Scramble steeply up right to gain a grassy rake then go left down this to reach a thread and large friends belay near its left-hand end. 1. 35m 5c Start at an obvious weakness in the overhang barrier. Pull up at a small ramp, then move left onto the wall and up to gain the slanting break line. Follow this as a rising traverse right, past a couple of large blocks and continue up the fine curving groove to a small stance and peg belays below the steep groove in the headwall.
2. 45m 6a Climb the groove with occasional forays onto the right wall until an awkward move gains access to the final blank looking section. Bridge delicately up the groove to the overhang and swing out right to reach good holds. Continue more easily to where the groove gives way to a broken heathery ramp. Belay just below the top.
4 Psycho 60m E2 *** (1987) This route takes a very impressive and sustained line up the vertical wall well to the west of The Nose and is at the upper limit of its grade. It is only slightly less frightening than being stabbed tvo death in a shower! The start can be identified by a pale rock scar, outlined on its left by a reversed number seven, with a small cave at its lower right-hand corner, just above Long Ledge. Start below the cave. 1. 30m 5b Climb trending slightly right, then go directly up the wall to a small heather ledge, via hollow sounding columns. 2. 30m 5b From the left end of the ledge climb up for 8m, make a short left traverse, then follow cracks to the top. An excellent pitch.
5 Tales of the Unexpected 50m VS 4c ** (1986) To the right of Collie’s Cleft is a heather groove. Further right still are two dark weep lines with a grey wall in between. This direct and impressive route climbs the centre of the grey wall at a surprisingly friendly grade. Start at a small cairn on the ledge and climb straight up on good holds.
6 Pitchstone 55m HVS (1967) To the right of the Collie’s Cleft is a heather groove. This route takes a curving line immediately to its right. 1. 30m 5a Start 4m right of the heather groove. Trend left to near the heather groove, then ascend a short awkward wall (crux) and move up and right to a spike belay. 2. 25m Easier rock trends right to the top.
7 Collie’s Cleft 50m S (1967) This route follows a deep, dank, messy chimney at the back of a huge vertical rift in the Main Wall; it is better suited to botanical pursuits than to rock climbing. Not recommended, but if you must: 1. 20m Climb the vegetated chimney to a ledge. 2. 30m Continue up the steep left chimney to an unpleasant exit.
8 Stepping Out 55m E1 ** (1987) This fine, intimidating route climbs the edge formed by the west retaining wall of Collie’s Cleft and the face to the left. Start below the left wall of the cleft where the basalt band disappears into the ground. 1. 45m 5b Ascend the steep wall for 5m, then move left to gain a thin groove. Climb this, step right, then go straight up, avoiding the more vegetated rock to the left. 2. 10m Scramble to the top.
Psycho, E2, Main Wall, climber Gary Latter (photo Graham Little)
9 The Flue 65m VS (1967) This takes the first obvious chimney-line west of Collie’s Cleft (less well defined in its lower part than Eagle
EIGG – An Sgùrr, Main Wall left 12
11 14 15
11. Botterill’s Crack 12. Going for Gold 13. Beyond the Fringe
S E2 ** E1 *
14. Through the Barricades E2 ** 15. Purphura E2
Chimney to its left). Approach from the right or left via Long Ledge. Dry conditions are strongly recommended. 1. 30m 4c Gain and climb the messy chimney to a heather ledge. 2. 35m 4a Climb the continuation chimney and slabs to the top.
10 Eagle Chimney 65m VS (1967) The left-hand of the two prominent chimney-lines west of Collie’s Cleft. Again, dry conditions are strongly recommended. 1. 30m 4c Climb the sustained chimney, passing a very worrying hanging spike high up on the left wall, to a heather ledge. 2. 35m 4a Climb the continuation chimney to the top.
11 Botterill’s Crack 40m S (1967) This route is located in the second great fault-line to break the continuity of Main Wall. In a bay above the level of Long Ledge (accessed by the obvious heathery gully) is a series of chimneys and grooves. On the right of the bay are two well defined chimneys; the groove come crack-line to their left is Botterill’s Crack. Two more chimney lines lie further left, starting partway up the left wall of the bay. Climb the groove and narrow chimneycrack above. The threatening wedged block high up can be turned by good holds on the steep right wall.
On the right wall of the cleft two curious large spheroids stare from the rock wall – well seen from the top of Botterill’s Crack.
12 Going for Gold 60m E2 ** (1988) This route lies mid-way between Botterill’s Crack and the descent gully demarcating the west end of Main Wall
a. approach d. descent
(above the left end of Long Cave). Traverse in from the left to reach the highest point of the heather ledge. About 4m to the right a corner cuts through the fringe of overhangs girdling the base of the wall above the basalt band. This is the start. 1. 15m 5a Ascend the corner then take a low rightwards traverse (just above the lip) to below an obvious cornergroove (taken by Beyond The Fringe). Continue further right, moving slightly up, to gain a foothold and semihanging belay. 2. 45m 5b Move hard right for 3m, then go up on good flakes to a slight bay. Ascend the bulging wall above, step right and climb clean rock to a ledge. Climb directly up the steepening rock above with technical finishing moves.
13 Beyond the Fringe 55m E1 * (1988) Approach as for Going For Gold. These two routes have a common start. 1. 25m 5b Ascend the corner then take a low rightwards traverse for about 4m (just above the lip). Move up to gain and climb an obvious corner come groove past a hanging flake, then climb the bulging right wall to a ledge. 2. 30m Easier climbing, trending slightly right, leads to the top.
14 Through the Barricades 50m E2 ** (1987) Start at the highest point of the heather ledge, reached by traversing in from the left (Going For Gold and Beyond The Fringe start at a corner 4m further right). 1. 20m 5b Climb directly up to and climb a vague groove which presents a weakness in the overhanging rock (there is a big jug high up on the left). 2. 30m Climb slabby rock above to the top.
EIGG – An Sgùrr, Ocean Wall 8
6. 7. 8. 9.
Ross’s Rib Nameless Ocean North Atlantic Drift Frozen Ocean
E1 HVS * E1 ** E1 ***
10. 11. 12. 13.
Earthsea Echo Beach The Haven Paradise Lost
the rib and pull right to get above the initial bulge. Continue up the rib slightly leftwards.
The next two routes lie on the west flank of the boulder filled gully.
2 Murphy’s Law 15m VS 4c * (1999) The left wall of the boulder filled gully, bounding the east side of Ocean Wall is dominated by a left to right rising ramp system. The ramp peters out 5m below the top of the wall. This line climbs the obvious left-facing corner dropping from the top right end of the ramp. Climb the corner, stepping right at the top, before pulling back left on excellent jugs.
3 Staircase 25m VS 4c (1999) This is the obvious ramp-line start to Murphy’s Law.
The following two routes climb the narrow east facing flank of Ocean Wall, with its distinctive blocky rock structure, to the left of the boulder filled gully.
4 False Lego Route 40m VS 5a (1999) This route climbs the right-hand side of the narrow east facing blocky wall to finish up the easy angled arete bounding the main slab of Ocean Wall.
5 Lego Route 40m HVS 5a * (1986) This route climbs the left-hand side of the narrow east facing blocky wall, via two shallow, offset, left-facing corners. Climb bulging, intricate, rock to reach the first corner, step right into the second corner, then continue to finish up the easy angled arete above.
6 Ross’s Rib 60m E1 (1999) Start directly beneath the prominent nose of the buttress to the left of Lego Route (some 25m left of the boulder filled gully).
E2 ** HVS * S HVS *
14. 15. 16. 17.
East of Eden Taking the Minke Sense of Porpoise Frolicking with Freddie
E3 * E4 ** E4 *** E3 **
1. 20m 5b Step up the basalt band and pull over the bulge with difficulty (crux) to gain a standing position above. Traverse left for 8m and climb a short groove to belay on a pile of blocks in a small niche at the foot of the slab. 2. 40m 5a Climb the slab for 5m to the first leftward slanting break. Follow this to the top (easier but less enjoyable alternatives are possible by continuing straight up the slab or by climbing the rib on the right).
The next five routes lie on the great concave slab and are accessed by traversing in from the right from the foot of the boulder filled gully. The first three routes share a common start at an obvious break in the overhangs where the basalt band merges into the heather
7 Nameless Ocean 60m HVS * (1999) More of a combination of routes than an independent line. 1. 30m 5a Follow the diagonal weakness, taken by Frozen Ocean and North Atlantic Drift, continuing rightwards to its end and then move up rightwards to a pile of blocks in a small niche. 2. 30m 4c Climb the crack above the belay, then flakes leftwards before heading directly to the top (initially the same line as the top pitch of Ross’s Rib).
8 North Atlantic Drift 60m E1 ** (1999) Climbs the face 6m right of Frozen Ocean. 1. 20m 5a Follow the diagonal weakness as for Frozen Ocean, but continue traversing right along the break for a further 5m to where it begins to peter out. Belay placements on wall above. 2. 40m 5b Climb the wall past a light coloured bulge at 4m then continue slightly leftwards over a second bulge and up to meet a diagonal flake-crack at 30m. Straight up a short steep wall to the top.
Frozen Ocean, E1, Ocean Wall, climbers unknown (photo Kevin Howett)
MULL & IONA
MULL & IONA
Mull is the largest island covered in this guide and even has a Munro, Ben More. The island is popular with those wishing to view wildlife. Iona is one of the oldest crucibles of Christianity in Scotland and the Abbey receives thousands of visitors each year. A number of Scottish kings are buried at the Abbey. Access: Caledonian MacBrayne run three ferries; Oban to Craignure, Lochaline on Morven to Fishnish and Kilchoan on Ardnamurchan to Tobermory (01631 566688), <www calmac.co.uk>. From Craignure buses run north to Tobermory and west to Fionnphort, details from Traveline (0871 2002233) <www.travelinescotland.com>. For Iona, Caledonian MacBrayne run a ferry from Fionnphort on Mull. Maps: Ordnance Survey Landranger 1:50k Sheets 47, 48, 49 and Explorer 1:25k Sheets 373, 374, 375.
<www.isle-of-mull.net> Accommodation: There are many hotels and bed and breakfasts. There is a Youth Hostel at Tobermory (01688 302481), <www.syha.org.uk>. There are also a few bunkhouses: Dervaig village hall, NM431520, (01688 400491) <www.mullhostel-dervaig.co.uk>; Arle (North of Salen), NM550482, (01680 300299), <www.arlelodge. co.uk/>; Mull Rugby Club at Garmony north of Craignure, NM673404, is an option for groups (bring sleeping mats) <www.mullrugbyclub.co.uk>; Creach Hall east of Fionnphort, NM318233, for information ask at The Ferry Shop, or contact Linda Cameron at Knockvologan (01681 700372). There are official campsites at: Tobermory, NM493544, (01688 302624), <www.tobermorycampsite.co.uk/>; Killiechronan, west of Salen at the head of Loch na Keal, NM536413, (01680 300403; Craignure, NM723369, (01680 812496), <www.Shielingholidays.co.uk>; Fidden, south of Fionnphort, NM302213, (01681 700213). There is an unofficial (and often busy) campsite with toilets at Calgary, NM373509. Amenities: There are shops, restaurants, filling stations etc. Bikes can be hired at Craignure (at the tourist office) and Salen.
<www.isle-of-iona.com> Accommodation: There are two hotels and a few Bed and Breakfast places. There is a hostel at the north end of the island, NM288257, (01681 700781), <www.ionahostel.co.uk>. There is a campsite at Cnoc Oran, NM 276237, on the road to the west of the island (01681 700112), <http: //www.ionaselfcateringaccommodation.co.uk/>. Amenities: There is a small shop just up the hill from the Calmac slip. A tea room come bar is just left (south) of the slip. Bikes can be hired.
Mull has numerous crags near the coast, the greatest concentration of climbing being on the Ross of Mull in the south-west of the island.
NORTH-WEST MULL & ULVA
Map p100 This covers climbing in an area north of the B8035 which runs west from Salen. The crags described in this section are dolerite generally with easy access. The cliffs are described from north to south with Ulva at the end.
(NM 407 557) Tidal & Non-tidal West facing. There are a number of small 6 to 12m dolerite crags on this unwelcoming part of Mull north of Dervaig at Dùn Leathan. Approach: From Dervaig follow the minor road north then the ‘Private Road’, the crags can be seen just after the standing stone.
CROIG – DÙN GUAIDHRE
(NM 399 543) Alt 5m West & East facing This crag is composed of generally good dolerite, and is in the form of a flat-topped grassy hillock. A few routes are on the east face, most are on the west, which gets the afternoon sun. A little searching may be required to find belays. The cliff-top is the site of an old fort so belay stakes should be avoided to preserve what may lie beneath. Approach: West of Dervaig take the single track road north to the tiny harbour of Croig. Park here, taking care not to impede access to houses and the jetty. Follow the continuation track north west through a gate and after a few minutes leave the path through a gap in the drystone wall on the right. The west side of the crag soon comes into view, about 10mins from the harbour.
Walking past the obvious seaward arete. On the left side is a wall with a striking steep crack-line (which unfortunately ends at a huge semidetached plate of rock, not apparent from below). Right of this is an obvious deep groove (about 9m left of the arete).
String Theory 10m HVS 5a * (2012) Gain a ledge at the base of the groove then climb its left arete, steeper than it looks. A ledge near the top allows the tricky exit to be contemplated.
Munroist Canute 10m HVS 5a * (2012) Follow the groove, which is steep and rather bold, to a rightward exit. Move back left to finish. Interesting moves.
MULL & IONA
North-West Mull & Ulva map p100
North-West Mull & Ulva p98
Central Mull p112
Kintra map p145
Iona map p185
Erraid map p160
Ardtun map p135
South Mull p116
16 Granite Crags map p152
Scoor map p124
South Mull p116 2. Calgary ..................p101 3. The Broch ..............p106 7. Sròn Gharbh ..........p111
Belay from large friends at the top of Munroist Canute.
Te To Tum 9m VS 4c * (2012) A good line which follows the obvious crack up the wall right of the arete.
Flex Canute 9m VS 4c * (2012) The back of the alcove just right gives an entertaining route. Start up the left-hand corner, then higher up make use of both sides.
Partially Killed 9m E2 5c ** (2012) The best route on the crag. Right of the alcove is an undercut wall. A steep start gains a thin crack, which is followed with difficulty. Protection with small wires is good but hard won. Sustained and technical moves gain a resting place beneath the roof then exit leftwards.
9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17.
Balmeanach ..........p113 Raven’s Crag .........p114 Creag Ghillean .......p115 Stac Liath ..............p116 Creach Beinn .........p116 An Garradh ............p117 Glen Mhòr..............p120 Ardchrishnish ........p121 Shiaba ...................p123
Just right is a blocky double overhang which unfortunately has several large and rather unstable blocks. On the right side of this is:
Rummage 8m S (2012) An initially steep crack, rummage to find good holds, the top groove is grassy.
Traipse 8m S (2012) Just right, follow the groove on the left side of the buttress. Near the top, traipse right onto the front face to finish.
Faff 8m E1 5a (2012) Climbs the front face of the buttress. Start on the righthand side and climb direct, using the right arete at times. Some marginal protection may be found but some will choose to avoid the faff by soloing.
CROIG To Kilchoan
Salen Ballygowan Bay
NORTH-WEST MULL & ULVA 2. 3. 4. 5.
Calgary.......................p101 The Broch.................. p106 Dùn Mòr.................... p108 Creag an Eòin............. p109
Blood, Soil and Straw 8m HVS 4c (2012) In the back of the alcove to the right, follow a rib to the overhang, where gear can be arranged but daylight can ominously be seen through cracks. Pull through the left side of the roof then ponder: just how securely is that huge block wedged in?
Bones, Chalk and Powder 7m S (2012) The small buttress-rib to the right, starting up the crack on its right then swing left onto the front face. Care with some hollow rock.
Bird Feathers Crumble 7m VS 4b (2012) The final route is on the buttress 10m right identified by some ivy high up. Steep moves into an alcove on the right-hand side then follow the crack up and through the ivy.
6. Aird Dearg....................... p109 7. Sròn Gharbh.................... p111 8. Ulva – Basalt Columns..... p112
Cracked Arete 6m S (2012) At the right end of the crag is a short bulging brown wall, left of it is an arete containing a crack. Climb the arete.
CROIG – SEAL WALL
(NM 398 544) Tidal West & North-West facing In the centre of the cliff is a shallow sea cave that forms a long overhang. The routes below are right of the long cave, a few routes have been climbed left of the cave. There are a few natural belays and a stake in a hollow next to a pool. Approach: Walk north from Dùn Guidhre for less than 5mins. First 10m D (2012) Start at the right side of the long cave. Climb an easy
stepped crack to a steeper finish up the corner crack.
Second 10m VD (2012) Climb the stepped crack just right then the slightly harder cracked slab. Follow the obvious crack up right to finish. (2012) Third 10m D Start round to the right and climb the crack and corner on the right side of the slab.
Left Face 10m S * (2012) To the right is a fine cracked buttress then an easy corner fault. Climb the left-hand line up the cracked buttress.
Doddle 6m M The easy corner fault.
Wee Buttress 6m M * (2012) Climb the cracks on the front of the short buttress to the right. Nameless Crack 7m M (2012) The crack on the right side of the short buttress.
(NM 385 543) Non-tidal West facing Map p100 There are several dolerite crags scattered along this shore. Approach: From Dervaig follow the B8073 west for 5km. Turn right, sign for Langamull, and drive along the Forestry Commission track for 1.5km and park at a sign for Kildavie Settlement. Walk down the track keeping left of the buildings, then follow power lines to the beach. Head north-east (right) over a wide sandy area and across a stream draining into the sea and head for a small cliff line that becomes visible. Head to a very large black rock in the sea, the climbs begin on the cliff behind this rock. Just over 20mins walk. An alternative which is kinder to cars is to park at Croig. Walk along the track from the pier, just before Kildowie head west (left) and go down to the shore. A pleasant walk but slightly longer.
Buttongrass Crack 12m VS 4a (2003) Follow a right-facing corner to an awkward move as the crack veers right. Pass a large hollow sounding loose flake to the rear with care to a much larger flake on the right. Move up to the next ledge and on to the top.
Ewan's View 22m HVS 5a (2003) 1. 14m 5a Start right of a sharp nose, pull up a steep wall with good protection. Move into an S shaped crack and go up towards a slabby headwall and traverse left around a nose to a good ledge belay. 2. 8m Move left and mantle up onto the corner of a large block then continue easily to the top.
Starfish Leg 8m D (2005) To the north is a curtain of basalt. Climb a crack near the right end starting 3m left of the boulders in the short gully.
(2005) Centipede Slab 10m VS 4b * Moving north past some buttresses is a low angled grassy area then more rock before the cliff gets higher and more broken. Climb the pleasant slab near the left edge.
Fin 8m D (2005) To the north is an isolated fin of rock, just north is a short wall of cracks. Climb the right side of the big flake at the right side of the crag, continue up to the top.
(NM 356 495) Maps p99, 100 This coastal dolerite crag south west of Calgary is one of the few developed crags in the northern half of the island. Calgary in Canada took its name from Calgary on Mull. Approach: From the east park 2.4km west of the toilets at Calgary where the electricity pylons go over the hill, there is a section of downhill then a straight with a passing place on the right. From the south-west park at a passing place on the left 600m after the Treshnish Point turn off. This is on a straight after a section of downhill, just before a road side dry stane dyke. Dark Side can be seen from the road with Treshnish Point behind. Walk west along the road for 100m or so, go down through a gate then head north-west to the coast. The routes are west of a long tidal gully which cuts inland. Abseil in, or climb down one of the easy routes. Many short routes have been climbed in the tidal gully and on the east end of Dark Side. Allow 5-10mins.
Tidal North facing
1 Dark Corner 12m VS 4c * (2004) The corner, at most tides abseil in and start from a square ledge just west of the corner.
2 Handrail 12m VD * (2002) Move left on bulging rock to gain the corner. Follow the corner up and right, or finish more directly. A direct start can be climbed at low tide.
3 Dark Rib 12m HVS 5a * (2004) The rib left of Pink Pool Corner, start on the left.
4 Pink Pool Wall 12m S Start up the chimney of Pink Pool Corner then start up the left-hand corner, pull up the steep wall on the left.
5 Pink Pool Corner 12m S (2002) Start about 3m left of the archway. Climb the shallow chimney then the right hand corner using a thin well protected crack.
Right Face 10m VD * (2012) Climb the right-hand line on the cracked buttress.
MULL â€“ Calgary, Arch Wall
7. 8. 10. 12.
Rescue Me Arch Rib Damp Waste Coat No Orange
E1 5a * VS 4c ** VS 4c * HVS 4c *
14. 16. 20. 22.
Going Right Red Mite I.M.K. Route 1
6 Pink Pool Crack 12m S (2003) From the base of the chimney climb the crack on the right.
Partially Tidal South-West facing A quick drying cliff, the arch is at the left end. A softer rock at the base has resulted in a few undercut starts.
7 Rescue Me 12m E1 5a * (2002) Start about 4m left of Arch Rib. Move up on large steps to a short right-facing corner-groove then step up left onto a vague rib below the bulge. Make a thin move up right and follow the handrail out right to finish up the rib, poorly protected.
8 Arch Rib 12m VS 4c ** (2002) The rib left of the arch, start at a corner 2m to the left of the rib. After the undercut start step right to gain the first hold. Continue straight up the rib, the first protection is at mid-height.
9 See Through Corner 12m VS 4c * (2002) At the arch is a right-facing corner-crack, take the righthand finish.
10 Damp Waste Coat 12m VS 4c * (2002) To the right is a short, shallow corner with an undercut start. Climb it then pull out right at the bulge and continue up a blind crack in the slab.
11 Shallow Water Solo 12m S ** (2001) Start about 3m right of the arch, climb the thin snaking crack in the left-facing corner on the left side of the tower.
E1 5b ** VS 4c * VS 4b * D
24. Slanting Slab S* 27. Mink Way Direct D 31. Wee Rib S
12 No Orange 12m HVS 4c * (2004) The tower has two aretes, climb the easier right-hand arete, protection could be better.
13 Going Left 12m HVS 5a * (2002) The left of two diverging corners right of the tower. Start just right of the crack, move up into the crack then left up a slab. Climb the corner with a move left to avoid the bulge.
14 Going Right 12m E1 5b ** (2002) The right diverging corner with an overhang around halfheight.
15 Bulge Groove 10m S ** (2001) There are two grooves in the next buttress. Climb the left-hand groove over a bulge low down. Good climbing but protection is difficult to find.
16 Red Mite 10m VS 4c * (2001) The right-hand groove also has a bulge. Start just to the right and pull out left to gain the groove.
17 Left Wall 10m HVS 4c (2001) The left wall of the corner gives nice climbing. The rock is steep and a little suspect and protection difficult to find.
18 Pathetic Trundle 10m S * Climb the open corner.
20 I.M.K. 10m VS 4b *
19 Go For It 12m VS 4b * (2001) The open groove in the left side of the next rib. There is a bold bulge to start, protection is possible in the crack down to the left.
MULL â€“ Calgary, Otter Wall, Left
53 49 44
51. Pelvic Bone HVS 5a * 53. Dry Bones HVS 4c * 54. The Forgotten One HVS 5a
51 Pelvic Bone 10m HVS 5a * (2003) Climb the right-hand of two diverging cracks left of Banana Buttress. There is an awkward bulge low down.
52 Banana Buttress 10m VS * Start 4m left of Dry Bones on a block and climb up just left of a prominent crack.
53 Dry Bones 10m HVS 4c * (2003) The wall 4m left of the left-facing corner at the left edge of the overhangs. Balance onto a slab, continue past slight overlaps and finish up a shallow corner, protection is limited.
54 The Forgotten One 10m HVS 5a (2004) The crack-line at the right side of the overhangs.
56. Easy Route VD 57. Shark E2 5b ** 61. Nestering Home HVS 5a
55 Holt Crack 10m VS 4c (2003) Start 2m left of Easy Route at a left-slanting fault. Climb over a bulge using a suspect block, and continue up the fault.
56 Easy Route 10m VD (2003) Start 2m left of the wet mossy line. Climb up past some grassy ledges, move left at the top.
57 Shark 10m E2 5b ** (2005) Start at the rib before the crag changes direction to give a bay. Climb up to half-height where the cliff steepens, move left and climb a shallow right-facing corner.
The next five routes are in a recessed bay, the first three on the west facing wall.
MULL â€“ Calgary, Otter Wall, Right
58. Absent Friend E3 5c ** 60. Contortion E1 5a *
61. Nestering Home HVS 5a 64. Dundrum HVS 5a *
65. Heinz HVS 5a ** 66. Campbell HVS 4c *
44. Scone Maker S ** 47. Flying Argo VS 4b * 49. Shin Scraper E1 5a/b *
28 Throw it Off 10m VD (2002) The undercut open chimney is gained by stepping off the boulder.
29 Bramble Corner 10m VS 4b * The left side of the face, climb up just right of the vegetated corner.
MULL – The Broch Far Right 38. Butterfly Recess 40. Moth Corner
HVS 5a * HVS 5b *
30 Close Enough 10m VS 4b * A vague crack to the right, start just left of the tree and climb up through the bulge. 31 Right 10m S The easy crack just right of the tree. 32 Far Right 10m S The other crack, just right.
33 Slating Chimney 10m S (2012) About 30m to the right is a shallow left-slanting chimney with a couple of chockstones. Climb this to finish near the remains of an old wall.
34 Float Like a Butterfly 12m E1 5b * (2013) Start up the recess below twin cracks, pull left and follow that crack.
35 Swallowtail 12m E1 5b * (2012) To the right is a recess between two pillars. Climb up left to the top of a pinnacle, then climb the bulging jam crack above.
36 Chequered Skipper 12m E1 5b ** (2012) Climb the shallow corner-crack just right of the last route and left of the wide crack. Climb the edge on the left for the last couple of moves.
37 Grayling VS 4b (2013) Climb the wide crack right of Chequered Skipper.
38 Butterfly Recess 12m HVS 5a * (2012) Right of the last routes is a pillar. Climb the recess on its right side past a chockstone. Friend 6 useful.
39 Papilion 12m E2 5b * (2013) Start just right of Butterfly Recess. Climb up right, continue up then step left and continue up to the top. Easy for the grade but poorly protected.
40 Moth Corner 12m HVS 5b * (2012) To the right is a left-facing corner-crack, climb it with interest.
41 Dark Arches VS 4b * (2013) Left of Hebridean Princess is a dark stained area of rock. Climb steeply up this to a shelf and finish up the corner crack.
42 Drinker 8m S (2013) Climb the left facing corner between Dark Arches and Hebridean Princess.
43 Hebridean Princess 10m VS 4b (2012) To the right are obvious twin cracks either side of a long spike. Climb the twin cracks taking care with the rock higher up. 44 Vapourer VS 4b 10m Climb the wide crack in the corner just right.
45 Ivy Rib 10m S (2012) Right is an ivy covered rib. Start right of this and climb the crack then up the rib above.
46 Small Tortoiseshell 10m VS 4b * (2012) To the right is another rib with a small tree to the right at two-thirds height. Move up right and climb the rib.
This area centred around the turning off the B8079 to the Ulva Ferry contains several short dolerite cliffs.
(NM 451 402) Alt 20m South-West facing This little crag of mugerite is just across the road from Ulva Ferry School. Some 30 problems from 5 to 8m.
(NM 461 404) Alt 150m South-West facing Map p100 There are some pleasant climbs on good rough dolerite, but beware there might still be some loose blocks. A short wall 10m back from the top of Overlap Route offers good belays above the wall. Approach: Drive down hill (north) towards Ulva Ferry School. Park at a left-hand bend, a crag can be seen in
Dùnan Mòr fence
approach, about 20mins from the road. To get to Green Hill from the road, head north-west to skirt past the east side of the cairned mound (Dùnan Mòr NM 375 242), then continue north past a boulder then north-east to reach a small grassy hill (the only grassy hill). The cliff is directly below, about 15mins from the road. For Dùnan Mòr Crag walk to Dùnan Mòr then head north-west towards the light house (or walk along the shore from the houses to avoid the bogs). About 10mins from the road. Sheiling Crag is between Dùnan Mòr Crag and Pile of Stones. To reach Pile of Stones walk left before getting to the Green Hill, this is just north of some ruins and an easy gap in the crag. This is about 15mins from the road. Linking the crags along the cliff-tops is straightforward, along the cliff base is hard work.
(NM 386 246) Alt 10m North facing
East Wall ............p135 Waterfall Wall .....p137 Yellow Block ......p139 Blow Hole ..........p140 Stirk West ..........p141 Green Hill ...........p141 Pile of Stones .....p142 Dùnan Mòr .........p143
This and Waterfall Wall are generally about 20m high. Although most routes follow cracks the climbing is very varied with a lot more interest than just jamming. Care is needed with a couple of the finishes.
Descent: Scramble round to the east or abseil in, belays are stakes or bushes.
MULL – Ardtun, East Wall, Left
2. 4. 5. 8.
Blazing Windows Eye of Toad Nest Trundling Screech-Owl
E2 5c * E2 5b ** HVS 5a * HVS 5a *
10. Bloody Louse-Bird E1 5b * 12. Declining Moral Standards E2 5b ** 13. TEB E2 5b **
CREAG EILEAN AN DUILISG
30. 31. 32. 33. 34. 35. 36. 37.
MULL â€“ Ardtun, East Wall, Right
13. TEB 14. Poorwill 15. Crispi
E2 5b ** HVS 5a ** E1 5a **
17. Kea 19. Hirondelle 21. Nutcracker
1 Calluna Cornice 12m VS 5a (1996) Well left of Nest Trundling climb a juggy arete! Runners are in the shallow corner on the right, move right across the corner for the last section. 2 Blazing Windows 15m E2 5c * Twin cracks which look straightforward.
3 Gong Bird 15m E2 6a * (1998) The finger crack left of Eye of Toad, step left at the top onto heather then an easy finish.
4 Eye of Toad 15m E2 5b ** (1996) Round left of Nest Trundling are twin cracks. Climb the left-hand crack with a little help from the right crack high up, finish left of the nose.
5 Nest Trundling 15m HVS 5a * (1996) Obvious recessed twin cracks at the left side of the crag.
6 Collie Dolphins 15m HVS 5a * (1996) The jam crack to the right, step left at the top to avoid the grass. Belay as for Goldeneye.
7 Playing the Accordian 15m E2 5c * (1999) The crack, the climbing is not obvious and it needs a clean.
8 Screech-Owl 15m HVS 5a * (1996) A jam crack takes a while to dry. Belay as for Goldeneye.
9 Goldeneye 15m VS 4c * (1996) A jam crack with a block at the base has similar seepage
HVS 5a * E1 5b ** E1 5b **
23. Chicken of Depression E1 5a ** 25. Jonathan Livingston Dodo E1 5a 27. Chouca HVS 5a
to the previous route. A belay stake is 8m back.
10 Bloody Louse-Bird 15m E1 5b * (1996) The corner-crack right of Goldeneye runs up left of a nose high up, a finger crack just right is also used. Good climbing but needs a clean, belay as for Goldeneye.
11 Duck of Death 16m E2 5c * (1997) The crack running up past the right side of the nose high up, good climbing but needs a clean.
12 Declining Moral Standards 16m E2 5b ** Good climbing up twin cracks left of TEB.
13 TEB 18m E2 5b ** (1996) Twin cracks just left of Poorwill. Find the easiest way going from one crack to the other, easy for the grade.
14 Poorwill 18m HVS 5a ** (1995) At the left side of the crag is an overhang 5m up. Climb twin cracks right of the overhang.
15 Crispi 20m E1 5a ** (1997) Climb the recessed crack to the overhang, move out left to the rib, step right and climb the crack in the arete.
16 Duck Xing 20m E1 5a/b Climb the crack right of the Crispi recess.
17 Kea 20m HVS 5a * (1995) Right of Duck Xing is a single crack which gives the route, start up a large flake.
(NM 290 195) Alt 40m West facing Map p160 This is above and left of Mink Wall. The left end of the wall is clean but short, right of this is some scruffy rock then a wall with two crack-lines, the first two lines. The last four routes are on the steep cracked wall at the righthand side of the crag. Approach: Walk north from Lizard Slab. 1 Dope Crack 12m E1 5b ** Climb the left-hand crack.
2 Grass Crack 12m VS 4c * Climb the right-hand crack, it is fairly wide.
4 Fang 16m HVS 5a * (2009) Start below a downward-pointing spike. Climb up towards the spike then move left and climb up another spike. Pull right and finish up the crack above the downward pointing spike. Has been climbed more directly. 5 Fantasy 16m E3 5c ** (2012) The line of thin flake-cracks in the wall right of Fang. Make awkward moves up the wall to gain a deep slot. Continue up flake-cracks then make bold moves on chicken heads to the final groove.
6 Bomber Crack 16m E2 5b * (2012) The obvious crack-line to the right. A tricky lower section leads to a good jamming crack. Harder than it looks.
7 Twin Track 16m VS 4c * (2012) Start up the next crack to the right which splits into two cracks and convergences again at the top.
MULL â€“ Erraid, Asphodel Wall
1. 2. 3. 4.
Dope Crack Grass Crack Gateway Fang
E1 5b ** VS 4c * HVS 5a HVS 5a *
5. 6. 7. 8.
Fantasy E3 5c ** Bomber Crack E2 5b * Twin Cracks VS 4c * Green Cracks VS 4c *
8 Green Cracks 16m VS 4c * (2009) Climb twin cracks just left of the arete at the right-hand side of the face, this is left of a green corner.
Erraid in the Woods
(NM 290 195) Alt 40m South facing This wall has some short steep cracks, it is between Asphodel Wall and Lizard Slab. Approach: Walk north from Lizard Slab. Forest Construction 6m HVS 5a * Climb the left most crack.
Brutal 8m E1 5a ** (2009) The second crack bends to the left and gives fine jamming. The Wandering Lumberjack 8m HVS 5a * (2009) The third crack bends slightly right. Vicious 8m HVS 5a * The last crack, right-slanting.
Gentle 6m E3 6a * Great climbing up the technical arete. Friends protect. Stepping off the blocks on the right reduces the grade. Just to the right of Erraid in the Woods is an outcrop with an obvious Y-Crack. Left Crack 7m HVS 5a Climbs the left crack to an awkward finish.
Right Crack 7m VS 4c * (2010) Climbs the straight right crack with some holds on the wall.
(NM 291 194) Alt 50m West facing Map p160 These short routes are climbed using holds rather than friction, two of the routes have protection, the others are solos or top roped. Approach: From just west of Pink Wall cross the fence and follow the path west then go left and follow a path south that goes through bushes in front of a short crag. The path gains height then drops down to the top of Asteroid Chasm. Leave the path near the highpoint and head right (west), 45mins from Knockvologan.
In Control 10m HVS 5a * (2009) At the left side of the slabs is a bush, start down and right of the bush. Climb the red seam then go up left using the slanting break then up to the top.
Tinkle 10m HVS 5a * (2009) Start left of the flake. Climb short right-leaning crack then continue on the left to a flake ledge. Climb up to the top.
3 Gateway 14m HVS 5a (2012) Takes the left edge of the clean pillar. Climb a short wall to the right end of a heather ledge. Follow cracks in the arete to good finishing holds and easy slab to the top.
Space Traveller, E2 5b, Asteroid Chasm, climber John Chivall (photo Lawrie Brand) The Lizard 10m 5b * (2009) Start at right side of flake. Climb the slab using a fairly large grey hold.
Not So Cold 9m 5b * (2009) Gain the right end of the flake ledge. Step up right and climb up linking the grey holds.
The remaining routes are short and unprotected, landings should be OK.
Grey Patch 8m 5b/c (2009) Climb through a diagonal crack then continue up to a grey patch of rock. Make an awkward move to stand on the patch then up to the top.
White Patch 8m 5b * (2009) Climb up through the white patch to the top at the left side of a slight overlap. Pull over to the top.
Link Up 7m 5b * (2009) Start 2m right of White Patch, climb up linking grey holds.
Grey Up 7m 5b * (2009) Start 2m right and climb up to grey holds near the top.
Notch Up 6m 5b * (2009) Left of the birch bush. Climb to the notch in the skyline left of the boulder.
(NM 290 193) Partially Tidal Map p160 A stunning piece of rock architecture approximately 4m wide, caused by the erosion of a basalt dyke. It has a south-south-west facing wall, just off vertical and a north-north-east facing wall, just overhanging. Also a huge block (the asteroid) wedged in the top. The cliffs do not get much sun so seepage is sometimes a problem. Shags often nest until August. Approach: From just west of Pink Wall cross the fence and follow the path west then go left and follow a path south that goes through bushes in front of a small crag. The path gains height then drops down to the top of Asteroid Chasm, 45mins from Knockvologan.
Scramble down into the Chasm to reach a gap in the wall that leads up to a cave. Routes are described left to right from the back of the Chasm to the sea.
Milky Way 22m HVS 5a * (2002) Climbs the prow left of the gap, climb the west facing crack, perhaps VS.
Warp Speed 25m F6a+ S1 * (2012) The traverse of the north-east facing wall of the chasm starting off the inland boulder; move up onto the wall
Black Hole 26m E1 5c * (2002) Right of Space Traveller is a right-slanting ramp. Make thin moves to gain the ramp, follow it to the ledge then climb the steep corner-crack. The crux at the start is slow to dry and was wet on the first ascent.
and hand-traverse a ledge before dropping down and traversing into the groove and an easier finish.
Asteroid Groove 22m HVS 5a ** (2002) Continue down the chasm (tidal) and go under the asteroid block to reach a tapering hanging groove. Move left into the groove and climb to its top and a ledge (nest in summer). Move left and continue up the obvious line to finish by the asteroid block.
Venus 10m E1 5a * (2008) At the right end of the wall are some impressive slightly overhanging crack-lines. Climb the right-hand twin cracks.
Infinitesimal 8m VS 4c (2002) The right-hand line, round right of Venus, is a tapering slabby corner-crack.
1 Tower Crack 8m HS * (2008) At the left end of Mink Wall (and slightly higher) is a small buttress with a prominent south facing crack. Scramble up to the crack and climb it.
Routes are described from left to right starting at the sea (west) end.
2 Aspen Grove 22m HVS 5a * (2008) Start at the right-hand side of the left-hand pool. Climb a short flake crack then move left on the large ledge, follow twin cracks then a jam crack to a grass ledge. Continue up flake-cracks to another grass ledge with small aspen trees.
Solar Collector 20m E2 5b ** (2005) The corner at the mouth of the chasm across from Asteroid Groove. Climb twin cracks above a large block.
Beetle Juice 10m F6c S2 * (2012) Climb the very thin groove on the south-west facing wall of the chasm, directly beneath the asteroid block. Finishing at the boulder at the start of Solar Collector.
3 Guantanamo 13m HS * (2008) Start just right of Aspen Grove and left of Pond Filler. Climb the cracks above to a ledge then move right and climb a short wide crack to another ledge and easy escape.
Space Traveller 28m E2 5b ** (2002) The central curving twin cracked-corner, an excellent line.
2. 3. 4. 6. 8. 9.
Aspen Grove Guantanimo Pond Filler Abby Orbit Toad Hole
MULL â€“ Erraid, Mink Walls
HVS 5a * HS * VS 4c * VS 5a * E2 5c * S
12. 14. 17. 19. 20. 22.
Jammer Interrupted by Canoes Neanderthal Need an Inch Red Access Route
HVS 5a E1 5b * E1 5b * E2 5c * VS 4c * VD
25. 26. 27. 28. 29.
The Sair Finger The Mink Helga Golden Strand Antonia
HVS 5a * E2 5b ** VS 5a * VS 4b * VS 4c
(NM 289 193) Alt 8m West facing Map p160 Mink Walls run from a shallow gully on the left towards Asteroid Chasm on the right (to the south-east). The routes are mostly short but are good quality, an abseil rope might be useful if climbing a few routes. Approach: From just west of Pink Wall cross the fence and follow the path west then go left and follow a path south that goes through bushes in front of a short crag. The path gains height then drops down to the top of Asteroid Chasm. The easiest way is to walk towards Asteroid Chasm then walk down to the right (west) and abseil in. At low tide it is possible to traverse to the walls from Asteroid Chasm, it can also be approached as for Beach Ball Wall, 45mins from Knockvologan.
Mars Watchers 22m VS 4b (2003) Gain the shallow chimney right of Asteroid Groove. Follow the ramp up left, go over a bulge and finish up the wide corner-crack. The easy start requires a low tide.
4 Pond Filler 13m VS 4c * (2006) The obvious crack-line at the left end of the short crag where it gets higher. Start at the left side of a pool either direct or on the left. The last few moves can be avoided at a ledge.
5 Pond Life 8m E1 5a (2006) Climb the off-width crack in the left-facing corner at the right side of the pool. 6 Abby 8m VS 5a * (2002) Just right of the off-width, climb the shallow corner.
7 Emma 8m E1 5a * (2002) Just to the right are some flakes, climb these and a shallow unprotected groove. 8 Orbit 7m E2 5c * (2006) Right of Emma is a thin crack which has wider section 2m from the top, climb the crack.
9 Toad Hole 7m S (2006) Right of Orbit is a black seam that runs up left. Climb a short right-facing corner to gain a ledge at the black seam, climb the crack above slightly leftwards. 10 Toad Crack 7m E1 5b * The fine crack just right.
12 Jammer 7m HVS 5a The corner-crack.
11 Just Spitting 7m E1 5a * (2006) Gain a flake left of Jammer and continue up it, protection can be placed before the top.
21 Fussing 8m E1 5b * (2008) Right of Red is a shallow right-facing corner. Climb the corner and continuation crack. 22 Access Route 8m VD The vegetated corner is useful.
(2008) 23 Another Access Route 8m S * The arete right of Access Route. Start on the left side and make an awkward move to get started then climb easily up and right.
24 Thrutchless Chimneys 10m VD (2008) Climb the short chimney at the left side of Mink to a big ledge then climb the short chimney above.
25 The Sair Finger 12m HVS 5a * (2008) The right-facing corner-crack at the right side of the crag (left of The Mink), move right before reaching the roof, pull over the bulge and continue as for The Mink.
26 The Mink 15m E2 5b ** (2002) The wall is bigger at the right end with an arching overlap. Climb the right side of the slab, just right of a hairline crack, to gain the start of the overlap on the right. Follow the overlap leftwards to finish up a cornergroove. A fine route. 27 Helga 15m VS 5a * (2006) Just to the right climb the left-facing corner-crack with an awkward start and finish up the continuation crack.
13 Caroline 8m VS 4c ** (2006) Just right of Jammer climb up to an undercut flake, continue up the flake.
14 Interrupted by Canoes 8m E1 5b * (2006) The cracks and flakes to the right, good climbing.
15 Wrecked 8m HVS 5a * (2006) The next line to the right finish up a right-facing flake.
16 Cave Dweller 8m E1 5b * (2012) Crack then direct above, just left of Neanderthal.
17 Neanderthal 8m E1 5b * (2006) Right are two cracks, jam the left-hand continue up the thinner cracks.
18 Troglodyte 8m E1 5c * (2012) Thin crack 1m right of Neanderthal, then right and up flake.
19 Need an Inch 8m E2 5c * The hairline crack.
20 Red 8m VS 4c * (2006) Climb the cracks at the right end of the short wall.
Vermelho Quente, E1 5b, Sunshine Wall (photo Mike Hutton)
28 Golden Strand 15m VS 4b * The cracks right of Helga.
4. 5. 7. 9.
Vermelho Quente Spidery Cracks Sun Spots Where’s Your Tan, Karen?
29 Antonia 20m VS 4c (2011) Climb the first corner left of The Waverley to the ledge, continue up the corner. Belay just below the top.
30 The Waverley 18m HVS 4c * (2011) Start up the chimney at the right end of the crag then move up the face and left to the ledge. Follow the pleasant ramp up right. Belay as for Antonia. A direct start pushes the grade up to E1 5b.
BEACH BALL WALL
(NM 289 194) Alt 8m South-East facing Map p160 This wall faces the left end of Mink Walls. Approach: Either walk from Mink Wall, scramble down the ridge just west of the wall or go down the unpleasant gully between Beach Wall and Mink Wall.
Orange Streak 10m HVS 5a * (2006) Climb the crack just left of the orange streak at the left end of the wall.
Sun Trap 15m HVS 5a * (2006) Start 6m right of the Orange Streak. Climb a steep corner-crack then cracks up a right-slanting ramp.
Buckets in Spades 16m E1/2 5b ** (2012) The crack-line in the middle of the wall starting at a steep black corner. Bouldery moves lead to a flake-crack and slabby shelf on the left. Continue steeply up the crack on surprisingly good holds pulling leftwards onto a ledge to finish.
E1 5b * VS 4c * E1 5b * E1 5b *
11. Anticyclone 13. Is This Scotland?? 16. Ambergris
E2 5b ** E2 5c * E1 5b *
(NM 289 191) Alt 10m South-West facing Map p160 There are a number of worthwhile climbs on this remote crag. Routes were soloed on-sight so beware in case of loose holds. Approach: From the top of Asteroid Chasm walk down east to reach a short man made wall. Contour round the hill south to reach New Slabs, Strawberry Pig Slab and in a further 50m Sunshine Wall, 50mins from Knockvologan. The routes on the right side start from a small crevasse.
1 Melanoma 10m S (2002) The initial corner at the left hand side of the crag with stepped blocks high up.
2 Hydrogen 10m E2 5b (2002) Climb the arete initially on the left via a flake, then on the right.
3 Daniel’s Dihedral 10m VS 4c * The off-width corner slanting up right.
5 Spidery Cracks 10m VS 4c * Climb the cracks.
4 Vermelho Quente 10m E1 5b * (2002) The obvious arete where the crag changes direction, using the crack on its right side.
6 Black Square 10m E1 5b ** The crack with the black square.
7 Sun Spots 10m E1 5b * (2002) A crack with a hanging corner and a red blotch at the
MULL – Erraid, Sunshine Wall
MULL – Erraid, Strawberry Pig Wall Strawberry Pig
17. Scrimshaw 19. Blubber 20. Jo’s Plums
HS S VS 4c *
21. Davi’s Bananas HVS 5a * 22. Strawberry Pig E2 5b * 23. Jules’s Pistachios E5 6c
left end of the overlap gives good climbing but the lower cracks need a clean. 8 Grey Matter 10m E1 5b * A crack and roof with an aerated flake.
9 Where’s Your Tan, Karen? 10m E1 5b * (2002) Go up a left-facing corner in an overlap. Pull through and up a hand crack.
10 Topping up your Tan 5/10m E2 5b * (2002) Either start from low down by a tongue of flake, or bridge across the void to gain grey footholds. Make delicate face moves using a small ear type flake.
11 Anticyclone 10m E1 5b ** (2002) Great climbing up left into the A shaped roof then climb the crack above.
12 Rays 8m VS 5a (2002) A hand crack going leftwards through a bulge.
13 Is this Scotland?? 8m E2 5c * (2002) The centre of the roof via a big hold, then veer left along a diagonal.
14 Ellipse 10m HVS 5b (2002) Start right of an arching flake. Move left to a bulge and climb twin cracks to the top past a red knob.
15 Sperm 8m D
24. Raspberry Lips 25. Ripe Mangoes 26. Rotten Pineapple
E3 6a * E2 5c * VS 4c
Start on the large boulder. Move up towards the tail end of the grey whale shape then go up left on the ramp.
16 Ambergris 8m E1 5b * (2011) Start on the large boulder. Move up right and climb the crack right of the grey whale shape.
17 Scrimshaw 8m HS (2011) At the right-hand end of Sunshine Wall is a left-facing corner. Start left of this on a block. Climb up then finish past the right side of the spike.
18 Baleen 6m S The crack right of the left-facing corner.
19 Blubber 6m S The crack just right of Baleen.
STRAWBERRY PIG WALL
(NM 290 191) Alt 20m South-West facing A pleasant 8m slab just right of Sunshine Wall with some obvious red intrusions, one of which looks like a pig. Heather covers some ankle breaking holes near the slab. There is a belay well back, behind bushes.
20 Jo’s Plums 8m VS 4c * An obvious straight crack at the left end.
21 Davi’s Bananas 8m HVS 5a * Broken cracks.
IONA – Raven’s Crag, Main Wall – East
26. 28. 29. 33. 35. 36. 37.
The Incredible Dr Sex Smoke Yourself Thin Monologue The Bantry Boat Prodigy Skinhead Quartzyness
30 Inverted V 10m E2 6a (1994) Climb to and through the overhangs right of Monologue.
Main Wall - East
31 Short Route 13m S Left of the nest is a short face bounded on the left by a left-facing corner (just right of a bay). Climb up to the corner, climb it and finish up a short open chimney.
32 Brush Off 13m HVS 5a (1994) Climb the arete left of the nest starting on the left-hand side. Gain the large sloping ledge and continue up the arete.
33 The Bantry Boat 20m E3 5c * (1995) Below the nest are two corners. Climb the left corner, move right brushing past the nest, a steep wall (crux) then easier climbing leads to the top.
34 Smoking the Toad 20m E6 6b *** (1994) Start on the shelf at the obvious crack in the middle of the red wall, right of the nest. Make a series of long reaches on good holds to a peg. Hard moves above lead to a rest under the roof and gear. Pull through roof and finish direct. The route was E5 but the peg was placed in 1993 so it has been upgraded.
35 Prodigy 25m E4 6a *** (1993) This route climbs the right-hand side of the red wall. Climb the grey crack, step left and climb ramp to small overhang. Move up right to the main overhang and traverse left under the lip of the overhang, then up and
E6 6b *** E4 6a * HVS 5a E3 5c * E4 6a *** HVS 5a E1 5a *
38. Mental Torment 40. At One
E2 5b ** S*
A. The Pulpit B. The Altar C. Main Wall East
36 Skinhead 20m HVS 5a (1993) Right of the nest is a steep face climbed by the last two routes. Climb the wide corner-crack right of it (just left of the quartz seam).
37 Quartzyness 20m E1 5a * (2006) Start at the edge of the crag. Move up the short corner and step left. Move up (junction with Skinhead) then right and climb the left side of the quartz seam. Strenuous but well protected.
38 Mental Torment 20m E2 5b ** (1993) Climb the corner at the left side of the face, a fine line with good climbing. Perhaps E1.
39 Don't Bang the Drum 16m VS 4b (1993) Climb the right-slanting-corner crack formed by a flake, then step left and climb the slabby wall.
40 At One 15m S * (1993) Gain the shelf, follow it left to climb a slabby corner.
41 Melter 10m HVS 5a Climb the left-slanting arete which marks the right edge of the overhanging wall, and pull over a bulge to finish.
42 The Gap 10m VD Just right climb a crack leftwards through a gap in the overhang.
<www.visitarran.com> Arran lies in the Firth of Clyde but despite its popularity and relative proximity to most of Scotland’s population it manages to retain an air of rugged grandeur and exhibit a certain Hebridean charm. As well as being a rock climber’s playground Arran offers many fringe attractions such as golf, water sports, fishing and pony trekking, making it a good venue for a combination holiday. Access: Caledonian MacBrayne run a ferry from Ardrossan to Brodick, they also run a smaller ferry between Claonaig in Kintyre and Lochranza (01294 463470), <www.calmac.co.uk>. Scotrail operate trains from Glasgow to Ardrossan (08457 484950), <www.scotrail.co.uk>. Maps: Ordnance Survey Landranger 1:50k Sheet 69
Maps p217, 271 Arran lies on the Highland Boundary Fault and boasts a varied geology and a splendid concentration of granite peaks in the north of the island, rising to a height of 874m at Goatfell, with another ten peaks over 700m. Two great glens, Rosa and Sannox, cut into the heart of this massif and provide access to many of the best rock climbing areas. The Arran peaks are frequently compared to the Skye Cuillin but there is no real comparison, both mountain groups having there own distinctive character and ardent enthusiasts.
(NR 955 399) Alt 792m Map p217 All the climbing is on the east face of the mountain.
(NR 956 398) Alt 620m East facing Map p217 Diagram p218 The East Face of Beinn Nuis dominates the view from Lower Glen Rosa, promising some fine rock climbing. However this grand face, although steep, is quite vegetated and has so far failed to produce anything of real quality. In winter conditions it is a different story, with the normally messy gullies giving good sport and the slabby open faces offering great potential for harder lines. The main face is split by five gullies, the much celebrated Gully 3 being the most distinctive. To the left of the main face is a ‘Cyclopean’ wall with a diagonal rake running up from right to left below it. This provides a descent route but care is required. Below this rake lies an area of slabby rock (holding Anvil Gully). Approach: Leave the main Glen Rosa track just beyond the bridge over the Garbh Allt. Follow the path up the side of the burn to reach level ground. Cross the burn, then head for the crag either via the path up the East
and Explorer 1:25k Sheet 361. Accommodation: There are plenty of options for hotels and bed and breakfast. There is a youth hostel at Lochranza, NR935504, (01770 830631), <www.syha.org.uk> and an independent hostel at Corrie, NS023423, (0781 4895412), <www.corrie croftbunkhouse.co.uk>. The campsite at the road head in Glen Rosa is a good base, NS001377, (01770 302380), <www. arrancamping.co.uk>. There are other campsites on the island. Amenities: There are shops, restaurants, filling stations etc. Bikes can be hired at Brodick. A taxi is handy to get to Glen Rosa from the Brodick ferry. There is a good bus service, (0871 2002233), <www.travelinescotland.com>. Ridge or by cutting across country (no path) from further up Coire a’ Bhradhain. Allow about 1hr 30mins from the Glen Rosa road head.
1 Anvil Gully 50m D * (1946) This short chimney come gully lies in an area of slabby rock below the ‘Cyclopean’ wall. It is an atmospheric climb, packing a lot into its short length, but is impossible for the stout! The initial thin chimney can be climbed or avoided by a ramp on the right. Thereafter surmount two jammed boulders to reach a gravel filled gully stoppered by a jumble of huge blocks. Climb up behind the blockage, then crawl back outwards into a cave. An improbable through-route on the left (facing out) gives a testing finish – take off sack, harness and excess clothing! Winter: III,3 * (1995) Follow the summer line, but the through-route can prove even more demanding when choked with snow!
2 Gully 1 95m III,3 (1995) After ascending the initial open groove, with one constriction, take the gully flanking the ‘Cyclopean’ wall on the left. At its top, step down onto a boulder jumble. Scramble over this to reach a bay below the final wall. Climb this by a thin chimney on the extreme left, exiting by a tight through route. It is an unpleasant D in summer (1897).
3 Gully 2 95m II,3 (1995) Climb the easy shallow gully to a point where a left traverse into Gully 1 is possible. Instead, move right over a chockstone, then climb the thin gully to reach a boulder jumble. Squirm through this (several throughroutes) to reach a bay below the final wall. The gully continuation is blocked, so take a groove and ledge to its left, then go up to finish. Again, it is an unpleasant D in summer (1897).
4 The Strand 175m V,6 ** (1995) This fine, exposed climb follows a prominent ramp
ARRAN le th G Nor
ARRAN Eastern Hills
Coire nan Ceum
anno G le n S
Ceum na Caillich
9 Coire na Cìche
Coire nan Larach
Coire nan Fuaran
North Goatfell A’ Chìr Coi
Cìoch na h-Oighe
re L an
5 3 Ealta Choire
Beinn a’ Chliabhain
Bhr e a’
Gl en Ro sa
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 12.
h Garb Allt
Beinn Nuis, East Face .................p216 Beinn Tarsuinn, Full Mead Tower .p220 Beinn Tarsuinn, Meadow Face .....p221 A’ Chir, Coire Daingean Face .......p227 Goatfell, Rosa Slabs ....................p233 Goatfell, South Slabs...................p235 Cìr Mhòr, South Face...................p239 Cìr Mhòr, North-East Face ..........p252 Cìoch na h-Oighe, Bastion ........p258 Coire na h-Uaimh, Lower Slabs ..p263 Caisteal Abhail, Upper Rocks .......p265 Ceum na Caillich – Sannox Face .p267 Ceum na Caillich – Coire Face.....p268 Cuithe Mheadhonach ..................p269
Brodick Castle (NTS) Clachan
ferry to Ardrossan B880
5. 15m 4c The chimney now widens and is divided by a rib. Take the deeply cut left branch to a jammed block. 6. 20m 4b Continue until the chimney narrows again. Reach a little cave, then climb its right wall to pull over onto more open ground. 7. 20m Grass and a final through-route finish the climb. Winter: V,6 **** (1970) This superb expedition requires a variety of skills and comes into condition as quickly as any winter route on Arran. Follow the summer route throughout. Pitch 5 is normally the crux.
running across the lower part of the slabby buttress between Gully 2 and the Nuis Chimney. Start on the left about 30m above the toe of the buttress. 1. 50m Follow the most prominent of a number of ramps that run across the face, with a thin slab and hard move round a block just beyond a corner. 2. 50m Continue by a rising right traverse line, aiming for the far right edge of the buttress just above a prominent overhung niche (close to Nuis Chimney). This pitch involves a difficult corner and some thin moves across a slab to reach the edge by a large block. 3. 45m Climb directly upwards to reach an obvious ledge system below the steep headwall. Follow this rightwards towards the upper reaches of Nuis Chimney. 4. 30m Finish as for the last pitch of Nuis Chimney.
6 Right On 185m VS (aid) (1970) The upper left side of the main face presents a massive bulge of clean rock. Directly below it a long cornergroove runs up the steep vegetated slabby face. This formidable if unattractive route takes a parallel line on the left for one pitch, moves right to gain and climb the corner-groove to a big ledge, then outflanks the massive bulge on the right. For a full description see SMCJ 1971.
5 Nuis Chimney (Gully 3) 130m VS * (1901) This is the obvious deep chimney bounding the left-hand side of the main face. It has the dubious distinction of being regarded as the finest chimney-gully on Arran! A route for the serious body contact enthusiast. 1. 20m 4c Ascend a scoop of damp disintegrating rock, then climb a shallow groove on the right-hand side to a platform and thread belay higher up on the right. 2. 15m 4b Climb up via a through-route to a large jammed block. 3. 30m 4b Continue up the gully bed until another through-route under a mass of blocks leads to a large stance. 4. 10m 4b Climb grass and moss to an overhanging block, above which a narrow chimney leads to a stance and belay.
7 After the Storm 260m VI,5 ** (2013) Takes a rising ramp line across the impressive face between Nuis Chimney (Gully 3) and Gully 4. Start about 50m right of the initial corner of Right On below a narrow turfy break that cuts through the lower slabs. 1. 60m Climb steeply up the break and continue up steep mixed ground before trending right along the ramp line. Belay by a distinctive downward pointing flake. 2. 50m Continue along the ramp before breaking up and right to gain a good traverse ledge leading right
ARRAN â€“ Beinn Nuis, East Face
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10.
Anvil Gully Gully 1 Gully 2 The Strand Nuis Chimney (Gully 3) Right On After the Storm Gully 4 Gully 5 The Nuisâ€™s Tooth
D * / III * III II V ** VS * / V **** VS (aid) VI,5 ** III * III * III,4 *
4 5 6
After the Storm, VI,5, Beinn Nuis, climber Stuart McFarlane (photo Simon Richardson)
8 Gully 4 125m III,3 * (1907) The deep gully flanking the right-hand side of the main face gives an interesting climb in magnificent scenery, with caves and chockstones to overcome.
The awful Sucker Slabs (VS 1943), takes the line of least resistance immediately to the left and traverses in and out of Gully 4.
9 Gully 5 100m III,3 * (1987) Another worthwhile gully with a short technical start and a final through-route. Again, the scenery is magnificent. It is unpleasant in summer â€“ D (1895).
10 The Nuisâ€™s Tooth 140m III,4 * (2013) The front face of the distinctive tooth-shaped buttress to the right of Gully 5. Start by climbing the easy curling gully on the right side of the buttress for 30m. 1. 60m Climb a turfy groove right of the crest and continue over short walls to belay on the crest of the buttress on a distinctive leaning block. 2. 50m Move right below a steep wall then climb straight up mixed ground to reach an easy ramp trending right below the steep summit tower. 3. 30m Move back left to gain a horizontal flake-ramp leading onto the front face. Traverse awkwardly along this, then climb a steep groove followed by a couple of short steep walls to reach a large platform by the pointed summit block. Either continue up the easy upper section of Gully 5 or descend to the right.
below a steep wall cut by a prominent crack. 3. 60m Move right up a turfy groove up an outside edge and continue straight up on discontinuous turf to reach an awkward traverse leading right to a stance overlooking Gully 4. 4. 55m Continue up a steep ramp overlooking the gully until delicate moves gain the gully itself. Follow the gully for 30m before traversing left below a distinctive roof. Move up on steep snow to a flake. 5. 35m Move up and left to a right-facing off-width crack. Climb this, then turn the steep wall above on the left via a steep move to reach a short easy groove and the summit ridge.
Flat Iron Tower
(NR 955 401) This large tor of sound rock is the northerly of a group of three that lie just to the south of the Nuis-Tarsuinn col. There are a number of routes up to about 35m, mostly in the lower grades.
Ealta Rib 135m VD * (2001) A long clean rib drops down into the corrie below the Flat Iron Tower. 1. 25m Climb a rib between two grooves via an obvious pocket to a ledge on the right side of a roof. Step right to a short grassy groove and go up to a belay. 2. 50m Climb up the right aerate and then diagonally leftwards up slabs to easy ground. Scramble up to a belay just to the left of a fine rib. 3. 35m Gain the rib from the left, just above a prominent overlap and follow cracks to a huge prow. Avoid this on the right, then move back leftwards to finish up the exposed arete. A large detached block is 10m above.
ARRAN Beinn Tharsuinn, Full Meed Tower 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
Baron Samedi Sunshine Edge Full Meed Chimney Voodoo Chile All Along The Watchtower
HVS S S* E2 ** HVS *
4. 25m Climb onto the block and gain the wall above. Follow an obvious hand-traverse leftwards and round to a platform under a short chimney. Squirm up the chimney to the top.
(NR 959 412) Alt 826m Map p217 This long mountain ridge has two tops. All the rock climbing is on the east flank of the peak facing Coire aâ€™ Bhradhain and Ealta Choire.
FULL MEED TOWER
(NR 956 404) Alt 650m South-East facing Map p217 Diagram p220 This striking tower like buttress of largely good rock lies just to the north of the Nuis-Tarsuinn col. It rises above a belt of slabs, and is very obvious when approached from Coire aâ€™ Bhradhain. Approach: As for Beinn Nuis but stay below the northeast ridge of the mountain until entry into the corrie to the north can be made. 1 Baron Samedi 50m HVS (1994) This route tackles the straight off-width crack in the slabs immediately below Full Meed Tower. 1. 25m 5a Climb the off-width crack to a niche. 2. 25m 5a Climb an overhang to a grass ledge, then continue up the cracks above.
2 Sunshine Edge 60m S (2007) Climb the left edge of Full Mead Chimney until forced out left by a rib. Continue up to broken ground.
3 Full Meed Chimney 60m S * (1947) The south face of the tower is split by a steep chimney. This is the line of route, which is quite strenuous. 1. 20m Climb the chimney to chockstones. 2. 15m Go left along a ledge, climb a short chimney to a platform, then climb the right-angled corner above. 3. 25m Finish up a nose on the right.
4 Voodoo Chile 90m E2 ** (1969) A fine climb, with excellent situations, taking the front face of the tower. Start at the top end of a heather rake, which slants up from right to left above steep slabs, just to the right of the edge of the tower. 1. 30m 5c Climb a corner, on poor rock, to surmount a small roof and reach a grassy triangle. Continue up a crack, then move left onto a splendid platform on the very edge of the tower. 2. 15m 5a Climb a leaning block to two roofs. Move right above the lower roof, then continue rightwards to step into a sentry box belay. 3. 10m 5a Exit left and follow a crack to an inset block. Move right into a chimney-corner, then climb a jammed block overhang to a ledge. 4. 35m Climb a corner-crack and chimney to rock ledges. Scramble to the top.
left traverse from the top of pitch 3 leads to a strenuous chimney which is climbed to join the normal route at the platform with the jumble of blocks.
(1987) 2 Sesame Street 105m S This route follows a line up cracks, grooves and slabs in the centre of the buttress to the right of Boundary Ridge.
3 Gully 3 135m D (1911) This is the most prominent gully on the face. The lower section is not co-linear with the upper section. Climb a turfy groove (as for Crack Climb) to the right of and parallel to the lower section of the gully for about 50m until a left traverse into the upper gully can be effected. Not recommended. Winter: III,4 ** (1984) The natural winter line takes the true (left-hand) gully in the lower section which leads to a cave formed by an enormous chockstone. Difficult moves on the right give access into the well defined upper gully. Follow this with two short pitches. An atmospheric route.
4 Crack Climb 135m D (1908) Climb the summer start to Gully 3 (the turfy groove), then continue up the continuation groove and wide crack above, diverging from the edge of Gully 3. Not recommended. Winter: III,3 * (1987) Follow the summer line throughout.
6 The Cave of Adullam 175m VS (1997) This routes climbs the thin buttress between Minaret and Imposter Crack. Start at the right toe of the buttress, at the base of Imposter Crack. 1. 20m 4a Climb up left and then slightly right to belay at the foot of a sweep of slabs. 2. 25m 4b Follow a ledge leftwards across the slabs, then climb the left edge of the slab to a grassy terrace. 3. 30m 4c Move right for 2m, then up a thin crack to slabs beneath the main overlap. Traverse slabs rightwards for 3m to a spike then go up into a corner above. Climb this for 5m, then follow a crack out left. Belay at the top of the corner. 4. 30m 4a Move up and left to a bulge, which is surmounted directly to a grassy ledge. Move right and up to belay.
5. 35m Climb up and right on a mixture of rock and turf. 6. 35m Scramble to the top.
(1943) 7 Imposter Crack 100m D A poor route that is more of a shallow gully than a crack, filled with grass and gravel, apart from one short pitch at about mid-height. Winter: II,3 (1985) Steep snow leads to the short pitch (a cave in a rock barrier). Surmount this with difficulty (crux) to gain the straightforward upper gully.
8 Intruder 155m HVS (1947) A fairly sustained line on the narrow buttress left of Gully 4. The route has some fine situations but is somewhat messy in places. Start near the foot of Gully 4. 1. 30m 4c Climb a corner and slab to traverse left and cross an overlap at its central point. Ascend a slab to a flake belay in the middle of the buttress. 2. 35m 5a Move right and climb a curving crack in a steep slab to a small ledge. Trend left up the slabs to a line of roofs girdling the buttress. Traverse right under these to obvious cracks leading to a belay. 3. 20m 4b Climb a slab and traverse right below an overlap to a small niche and thread belay. 4. 30m 4c Climb a crack and slab, then traverse right below overlaps to a flake-crack leading to a heather stance with belays on the right. 5. 40m 5a Surmount a double overlap and climb a slab above to the left edge. Ascend the edge to an overhang, move right and cross the overhang (strenuous) to finish up steep slabs.
9 Gully 4 100m M (1907) This deep gully contains much loose vegetation and shattered rock and is best avoided in summer. Winter: I * When banked out with snow this gully offers an easy descent from the ridge.
10 Pagoda Ridge 220m S ** (1943) A classic and popular climb, generally following the left edge of Buttress 4-5 overlooking Gully 4. It may be started from what is in fact the third pitch but the lower two pitches should not be missed. Start at the toe of the buttress, just left of the lowest slab (arrow and scratched letters PR on the rock, a practise to be discouraged). 1. 25m Climb a heathery crack ending in a sharp flake. Traverse left, climb to a heather patch, then cross a slab to a stance below an overlap. 2. 25m Move up onto a sloping shelf above (delicate), then go left to the edge. Climb the edge for 10m to a side belay. 3. 20m Follow the edge with one short dog-leg, then move right to a pile of blocks below a heather ledge. 4. 20m Climb a short steep wall above the heather to reach a good stance behind a large block overlooking Gully 4. 5. 10m Traverse right to a little corner with a spike belay. 6. 25m Using the spike, swing round the corner on the
5 Minaret 180m HVS (aid) (1968) A route on the big slabby buttress between Crack Climb and Imposter Crack. A striking overhanging vein crosses the face at about 60m. The initial pitches are slow to dry. Start at the lowest slabs of the buttress. 1. 20m Climb diagonally left, then go right to a grassy ledge and belay. 2. 35m 4c Continue up the slabs to an overlap. Traverse left, then climb up to reach a grassy ledge below the main overhang. 3. 30m 5a Surmount the overhanging vein using one point of aid, then climb a crack in the slabs above to a grassy ledge. 4. to 6. 95m Continue up slabs in three pitches to the top.
Mosque, VS, Aâ€™ Chir, climber Stuart Buchanan (photo David Buchanan) right and traverse across the slab until the wall above can be climbed from left to right. Now traverse back left to the edge and a jammed block belay overlooking Gully 4, an excellent pitch. An alternative is to climb the spikes directly, mantelshelf onto the slab above, then move left to the edge. This is as good as the original line, but shorter. 7. 35m Climb the short crack above and follow the edge to a steep wall. Climb this to belay between large boulders. 8. and 9. 60m Finish up the edge overlooking the gully in two pitches of easier but pleasant climbing.
11 Mosque 230m VS ** (1968) This long and quite sustained climb provides excellent climbing up to its junction with Pagoda Ridge. Start just left of the slabby toe of the buttress. 1. 40m 4c Pad up the widening slab (ignoring the heathery crack of Pagoda Ridge) to an overlap. Traverse left to a bulb shaped protuberance. Cross the overlap, then go up to the next overlap. Move down and right to belay at an old peg. Quite a bold pitch. 2. 30m 4c Climb the slab above, then move right to a flake on the edge of the next overlap. Cross this, then continue to another and awkward overlap. Surmount it and climb a slab to a ledge with a flake belay above.
3. 25m 4b Climb a bulging wall to the right of the belay, then ascend a slab and some heather to a hollow flake belay below an overlap. 4. 20m 4b Cross the overlap just left of the belay, then move left to a good hidden thread runner. Follow a line of pockets rightwards over an edge to belay in a small recess on the right. An excellent pitch. 5. 40m 4b Climb the recess, ascend a short slab, then traverse right to a crack in the overlap. Climb the crack and the slabs above (next to a turfy crack) to a belay. 6. and 7. 75m Traverse left over slabs, then follow the line of least resistance up the edge overlooking the gully (as for Pagoda Ridge) in two long pitches.
12 Synagogue 225m VS (1981) This route follows a line to the right of Mosque, but it is not of the same quality as its celebrated neighbour. Start at the very toe of the slabs. 1. 45m 4c Climb directly up the slab to an overlap. Traverse left to surmount it on good holds. Trend left using undercuts, then climb directly over another overlap to a grass ledge. Trend rightwards up a slab to a short wall. 2. 40m 4b Negotiate the wall on the right by an obvious groove, then continue by a slab and short overlap to a ledge. 3. 40m Climb rightwards up the slab, then directly by a line of pocks to a heather ledge (to the right of the small recess on Mosque). 4. 40m Trend rightwards up the slab by an undercut flake, then continue straight up to join Pagoda Ridge. 5. and 6. 60m Finish up the edge in two pitches as for Pagoda Ridge.
13 Gully 5 120m D This ill-defined turfy gully contains a wet, repulsive start and thereafter is a walk apart from few short easy pitches high up, not recommended.
14 Hangover Slabs 190m VS (1961) A more enjoyable climb than appearances would suggest, but it is slow to dry. A walk off at about halfheight into either Gully 5 or 6 is possible. Start about 20m to the left of the foot of Gully 6. 1. 45m 4b Climb a clean slab over a detached block, then a slight bulge to a vegetated corner. Ascend this or slabs on the right, then trend left to a block belay below an overlap. 2. to 5. 115m 4b Cross the overlap, then climb slabs in four pitches to a stance below a short wall. 6. 35m 4c Ascend the short awkward wall, then traverse right to turn an overhang. Finish up easy slabs to large blocks.
15 Gully 6 100m E This wide grassy gully provides and easy ascent and descent route.
16 Slab and Flake Route 110m S * (1943) Despite its rather grassy upper section, this is an enjoyable route on the left side of Buttress 6-7. Hard for its grade. Start at the bottom left corner of the buttress.
1. 25m 4b Climb the slab edge for 15m, traverse diagonally right, then go back left again to the edge and a large flake belay. 2. 10m Climb the flake by either edge, then cross a heather ledge to a block belay. 3. 15m 4b Climb a cleft slanting right behind a flake containing a chockstone. From the top of this flake step across to gain a steep wall opposite and so reach a ledge above. Move right past a thin crack to a ladder of pock holds leading to a ledge above and an eyehole belay. 4. 25m Follow the rising grass rake on the right to a rock shelf. Follow the shelf leftwards to another shelf, then move right up a slab to a flake belay. 5. 20m Climb a corner to a bouldery terrace and a spike on the wall behind. Climb the spur behind and a slab above, then move back right to a block belay. 6. 15m A wall and crack lead to a grass terrace at the top of the buttress. 17 Na Ciste 135m VS (1977) This route takes a fairly central line on Buttress 6-7 to the right of Slab and Flake Route. The climbing is no harder than 4c and belays can be taken as required. Start at the lowest slabs, below and to the right of a the vertical turfy crack. Climb a slab to the top of a short heather corner on the right. Move right and go up to belay on flakes. Move back left onto the slab and climb it to a terrace. Continue up leftwards behind a large flake onto a slab, traverse this rightwards and go up to the next terrace. Move right and climb up rightwards on flake holds until it is possible to reach another terrace. Climb a wall by a flake-crack on the left. Directly above is a fault formed by detached blocks; climb this to a small platform. Traverse right, then go up leftwards by a short layback crack. Move left and pull over a final bulge on good holds.
19 Gully 7 90m D (1944) Unpleasant, loose and vegetated, not a good descent! Winter: II * (1987) From the foot of the gully follow a shelf up and along the left-hand wall, followed by a chimney above. Easy snow then leads to the top.
20 Buttress 7-8 80m D (1944) A vegetatious route, even by Coire Daingean standards, starting at the foot of Gully 7 and following the line of least resistance on the left side of the buttress. Not recommended.
21 Afterthought 90m S * (1961) This route takes a line near the centre of Buttress 7-8.
Start 6m to the left of the fault-line of Giant’s Staircase. 1. 20m Climb straight up slabs to a grass ledge. Continue up the wall above by cracks, then mantelshelf onto a detached flake. Take a block belay on the left. 2. 30m Climb a short slab, then traverse left around a bulge. Layback up to a heather ledge. 3. 40m Climb a flake to an overhang, then move right to blocks. Trend right to crawl into a restricted through route behind a huge boulder and thence to the top. Alternatively, from the belay traverse delicately right along a sloping ledge to a triangular flake with a hole at its apex. Climb this flake, then go straight up to join the original line at the through route.
22 Fat Man’s Dilemma 85m VS (1995) Start at the very lowest point of a thin chimney below the corner-line of Giant’s Staircase on the right side of the buttress. 1. 20m 4b Scramble up to the base of the chimney, move left to an obvious flake, step up, then climb to a vegetated ledge. Move right around an edge to find a belay. 2. 25m 4c Move back left and climb to a big flake (not visible from below). Step up and left to move behind a semi-detached flake. Climb heathery rock to a juniper ledge. 3. 20m 4c Traverse up and right on flakes until a step right across a groove onto a slab allows a heather ledge above to be gained. Scramble up and around to the right to gain and climb a deep crack which separates an enormous block from the crag. Belay on top of this block. 4. 20m 4b On the left is a distinctive horizontal spike. Pull up to this, move left then back right to crawl into a restricted through route behind a huge boulder (in common with Afterthought) and thence to the top.
23 Giant’s Staircase 75m S (1943) A corner fault-line defines the right edge of the main section of Buttress 7-8 (to the right of this fault lies a short section of vegetated cliff before Gully 8 is reached). This route follows the fault via a series of short chimneys with ledges in between. All the chimneys should be climbed direct, giving strenuous climbing.
24 Gully 8 50m M (1907) The final gully of the face, with the summit buttress beyond, contains two short pitches. Winter: II The gully can bank out to reduce the grade to I.
COIRE BUIDHE FACE
(NR 966 427) Alt 600m South-East facing This corrie is formed by the main ridge running north from the summit of A’ Chir and a lateral ridge jutting out into Glen Rosa. It holds a number of very steep Cyclopean walls, separated by short gravelly gullies, on the east flank of the main ridge. No climbing has been recorded on them so far. One prominent little buttress just to the south of the A’ Chir – Cìr Mhòr col does however hold two routes.
18 Chestnut Edge 95m VS * (1974) This is the seemingly continuous right edge of Buttress 6-7. The prominent crack is 4c, the rest of the climb easier. Belay as required. Start at a shelf. Climb mossy rock to a clean slab and niche on the right. Climb up and left across a steep slab to a prominent crack. Ascend the crack (crux) to a ledge and large spike. Gain a slab and ledge overlooking Gully 7. Climb a steep cracked pinnacle to a ledge, then walk to the top.
Leaning Block Chimney 30m VD (1958) This route lies on the left half of the little buttress and follows the chimney with a conspicuous leaning block near its foot.
(1947) Birthday Chimney 30m VD Climb the prominent chimney up the centre of the face with a large projecting block at about one-third height.
GLEN IORSA FACE
(NR 965 424) Alt 610m West facing
Approach: From the little col at the Mauvais Pas an easy gravelly gully leads down on the west side of the ridge. Immediately south of this there is a 20m high wall buttressing an expanse of slabs just below the crest of the ridge. This is the Glen Iorsa Face; two routes have been recorded. November Chimney 55m VD * (1958) The wall is breached by a steep curving chimney holding a chockstone. Climb the narrow chimney (strenuous), belaying about 5m beyond its top. Move slightly right to the foot of the slabs, then climb these by cracks and grooves. Finish up slabs to gain the ridge crest.
Cairn’s Cream Corner 55m S * (1978) Start at a chimney-crack 6m right of November Chimney. Climb this, then follow an obvious slab corner to a belay. Move up and left to a flake-crack with a pointed top. Surmount this, exiting left at the top.
(NR 989 422) Alt 818m Map p217
(NR 995 420) This large corrie lies between the east ridge of Goatfell and Am Binnein, and is drained by the Corrie Burn which enters the sea about 1km south of Corrie. A number of small buttresses fall from the Stacach ridge (the north ridge of Goatfell) at the head of the corrie. The largest of these is split by a steep gully. Three routes have been recorded on this buttress. Approach: A path from High Corrie gives access into Coire Lan and the climbing in about 1hr.
Left-Hand Route 60m VD (1949) This inspirationally named route climbs the well defined rib to the left of the gully. The final short undercut wall is turned on the right.
Stacach Gully 75m II (1960s) The steep gully splitting the buttress usually holds one short ice pitch.
Right-Hand Route 100m M A poor and vegetated route.
NORTH GOATFELL SLABS
(NR 989 422) Alt 710m South-West facing A prominent belt of slabs, overlapping from left to right, lies high up on the south-west slopes of the mountain, breaking up a short distance below the summit. A series of divergent grooves, all starting relatively near each other near the left side of the base, curve up rightwards. Well to the right, near the North Goatfell – Goatfell col lies a prominent diamond shaped slab. A terrace, invisible from below, slants down from left to right separating these two areas of slabs. Approach: The best access to this area is by following the ‘tourist route’ up Goatfell, starting near Brodick Castle, and then traversing the Stacach Ridge to North Goatfell and then descending to the west. Whit Fur 100m D (1968) Start at the first groove near the left edge of the area. Climb this for about 30m, then climb diagonally up and right to a grass ledge. Finish straight up the slabs above. Belay as required.
Whit Wey 100m S * (1968) Start below the second groove from the left edge of the slabs. 1. 30m Climb a slab to the foot of the groove and follow it. Continue up to a prominent flake jutting out right, then move up and right to the foot of another groove. 2. 20m Climb the groove to belay in a crack below and to the right of the main upper slab. 3. 35m Traverse hard right to the slab edge, then climb diagonally right to belay 10m below and to the right of a jutting block. 4. 15m Climb the slab to an overlap, then move left to finish up a crack to the right of the jutting block.
Diamond Slab 45m VD * (1960) A short but enjoyable route starting at the lower left angle of the diamond. Traverse diagonally up and across to the extreme right edge, then finish up the edge.
(NR 991 415) Alt 874m Map p217 The highest mountain on the island is devoid of the steep walls that flank almost every other peak, but it does hold extensive areas of slabs. From the summit, Goatfell throws out a well defined blunt ridge running south towards lower Glen Rosa. There are several tors on this ridge, the most prominent, Forgotten Tor, being about 200m from the summit. It is well defined with a short east side and a longer slabby west side which gives pleasant climbing at about Difficult standard. The east flank of the ridge is steep and slabby but appears to offer no continuous rock. Closer inspection, however, reveals that the south end of the flank has a tilted U-shaped belt of slabs about 60m high. The main features are a long clean slab on the right and a series of small overlaps on the left curving from left to right. Two pleasant routes
are recorded that can be used to enliven a day out on Goatfell.
Approach: Via the â€˜tourist routeâ€™ from Cladach on the A841 west of Brodick Castle. Introduction 75m D (1974) 1. 40m Climb up the middle of the long clean slab on the right to a belay. 2. 35m Continue more or less straight up by slabs and corners to the top.
Encore 60m VD (1974) Start 8m left and slightly higher than the previous route. 1. 35m Climb a smooth slab to a right-curving groove. Follow this, cross an overlap, then climb straight up to a spike belay. 2. 25m Climb straight up to a bigger overlap, move around the corner on the right to surmount it, then finish straight up.
(NR 986 415) Alt 480m West facing Map p217 Diagram p234 This is the great expanse of slabs which plates the western flank of Goatfell. From the Glen Rosa path the slabs are much foreshortened, their actual height being some 220m. There are two grass rakes, known as the First and Second Terraces, which run up from left to right, splitting the slabs into three sections. The upper left and bottom right sections give the best climbing. The routes tend to cross each other and therefore a number of combinations can be created and in fact the slabs can be climbed almost anywhere at a reasonable grade. Approach: The slabs are best reached by toiling up the heather covered hillside from the Glen Rosa path. Allow about 2hrs from the road to the base of the slabs.
2 Airlift 210m E1 * (1973) Start at a long clean slab to the right of the start of the Second Terrace. 1. 35m 4b Climb a slab, then trend right via quartz holds to another slab and a scoop leading left. 2. 15m Go left to a rib and climb it to the Second Terrace. 3. 30m Walk up the terrace to below an overhung corner with a turfy cracked slab on the left. 4. 25m 5a Follow the turfy crack over an overlap, climb the slab above to a small overlap, then move left and
climb a mossy slab. Surmount an overlap on the left and climb a flake to surmount yet another overlap. Belay by an overhung corner on the left. 5. 30m 5b Climb the left wall of the corner via a crack and ascend the slab beyond. Avoid the grass on the left by a delightful slab to reach a horizontal ledge. Move left along this ledge and climb the fine thin crack on the left, then go up to belay on Zigzag. 6. and 7. 75m Finish up Zigzag, taking the top overlap direct.
3 Gwynserthni 70m E2 (1991) About 40m above and left of the lowest slabs is an obvious white water streak. This is the start. 1. 30m 5b Climb up the obvious white water streak, passing a horizontal crack at 5m, to a scoop at 15m. Move up into the groove just right of the streak and follow it to a ledge. 2. 40m 5b Climb a slab to a scoop about 3m right of the gully. Continue up on cusps and pockets to climb the double overlaps via the obvious pocket and just left of the pebble on the second overlap. Climb to a ledge and a poor spike belay just below the First Terrace. 4 Extraction 75m HVS (1982) This route takes the clean slab 30m above and left of the lowest slabs, continuing directly through the triple overlaps above to finish on the First Terrace. There are two pitches (5a, 4c).
5 Evening Traverse 245m VD (1955) This is a worthwhile route despite having a rather scrambly and ill-defined middle section. It tackles the full height of the slabs. Start at the lowest slab, an undercut specimen, which lies left of the watercourse draining the right-hand side of the slabs. 1. 30m Traverse left across the top of the undercut slab and make for a crescent shaped overlap on the left (a bit of a pointless pitch). 2. 25m Climb to the right of the crescent, then move left above it into a shallow scoop bounded on the left by a steep slab. 3. 40m From a ledge below the slab, climb a groove a short distance from its right edge. When the groove ends continue up on small holds, then move obliquely left to a rounded spur of rock. Follow a scoop to the First Terrace. 4. 25m Well above the terrace a projecting boss of rock will be seen on the left. Climb slabs to its right to a grass ledge aligned towards it. Traverse left across steep slabs, then climb up to a large block belay. 5. 35m Easy ground leads to an overhanging edge slanting up rightwards. Climb a crack in the overhang and continue up to a spike belay. 6. 10m Easy ground leads to the Second Terrace. 7. 40m Follow cracks and grooves above to a small platform with a flake shaped like a gravestone. Climb the groove above to reach a pile of blocks below the edge of the huge slab on the left. 8. 20m Twin corners, one set below the other, lie above. Climb the right-hand one until the corner-crack gives out. A little wall with a slab above leads to a good spike belay.
1 Zigzag 120m S * (1958) The original route took an illogical and indeterminate left-trending line from the lowest point of the slabs to gain the left edge and better climbing. The direct start is now the accepted way, although the route name is now somewhat inappropriate! Start below and to the left of a prominent waterslide at a little rib. 1. 45m Climb the rib and carry on straight up to belay on the gully edge. 2. and 3. 75m Follow the edge in two pitches, which give good climbing all the way.
ARRAN Goatfell, Rosa Slabs
Second Terrace 10 9
1. 2. 3. 4.
Zigzag Airlift Gwynserthni Extraction
S* E1 * E2 HVS
5. 6. 7. 8.
Evening Traverse Angel’s Pavement The Perfect Fool Fool’s Causeway
9. 20m Cross two short overlaps above the belay and finish up slabs. A broken ridge and easy ground lead to the summit ridge.
6 Angel’s Pavement 80m S ** (1960) An excellent clean route at the bottom right of the slabs. Gain the start by scrambling up a right-trending grassy rake which runs above the undercut slab at the start of Evening Traverse. 1. 20m Climb a slab to the right-hand of two cracks splitting the overlap. Climb the crack to a small stance and spike belay on the right. 2. 25m 4b Follow an obvious line diagonally left, then a prominent chain of pitted holds leading up right. Where the holds fade go straight up for 3m to a rounded ledge. Traverse easily left to a belay on a small ledge. 3. 35m Climb straight up the slab crossing two small overlaps to finish on the upper reaches of the First Terrace.
7 The Perfect Fool 170m HVS * (1981) Described as the best non-line on the slabs, it tackles the blankest and steepest section. Start about 5m left of Angel’s Pavement. The climbing is no harder than 4c. Climb diagonally leftwards across the clean slab, crossing a small overlap, until it is possible to climb straight up to the First Terrace at the foot of Fool’s Causeway. Climb the first 7m of that route, then climb straight up the slab to an overlap. Surmount this and continue straight up,
VD S ** HVS * HVS *
9. Guttersnipe 10. Ribald
VS * VS
keeping to the rock. Protection is scarce and belays should be taken as available.
8 Fool’s Causeway 90m HVS * (1960) This route starts on the First Terrace and finishes on the Second Terrace. Either of the previous two routes can be used as access. Start lower down the First Terrace from the top of Angel’s Pavement, below a smooth water streaked slab, where two blocks form a thread belay. The climb is slow to dry. 1. 25m 4c Traverse left and up onto the slab. A metre or so higher, follow a very thin grassy crack slanting rightwards. From its finish, move up a short distance to a rock pocket. Poor belay. 2. 35m 4c Pad up right to a line of pockets leading to a tiny groove. This develops into a layback crack curving left to a small overlap. An easier groove and a slab now lead to a ledge. 3. 30m Easier slabs lead to the top of the Second Terrace.
9 Guttersnipe 130m VS * (1964) A fairly good route on the slabs above and to the left of the Second Terrace. Start about 90m up from the foot of the Second Terrace where the overlaps look more amenable to attack. 1. 20m 4c Climb a slab and an overlap at 6m, then move up left into a mossy corner. Climb another overlap above to a small stance.
2. 30m Climb diagonally right across a mossy slab to a crack, then go straight up to a heather ledge. 3. 40m Climb up for 25m, traverse horizontally right above an overlap, then move up to a heather terrace. Ascend a quartz band diagonally up across a grassy corner to an eye hole belay on a steep edge. 4. 15m Continue straight up to a belay below the break in the overhang on Zigzag. 5. 25m Move left below the overlap, at 15m cross it, then climb leftwards to finish.
10 Ribald 110m VS (1985) This climb lies above the Second Terrace on the huge slab mentioned in the description of Evening Traverse. 1. 20m From the terrace climb to gain a flake belay in a heathery corner at the bottom left of the large clean slab which lies to the left of Evening Traverse. 2. 35m 4c Cross the slab and climb it close to its well defined right edge to a thread belay. 3. 45m Continue more easily up the right edge and over a small overlap to meet Evening Traverse. 4. 10m A corner leads through a short wall to easy ground.
(NR 986 412) Alt 440m West facing An extensive but very broken area of slabs outcrop on the hillside between the Rosa Slabs and the South Slabs. Only one route has been recorded. Approach: As for South Slabs then traverse leftwards.
Staravation 90m VD (1967) This route lies just to the right of the watercourse that lies closer to the South Slabs than the Rosa Slabs. It is a pleasant enough climb once gained by a fairly arduous toil up the flank of the glen. Start at the lowest slab. 1. 35m Climb straight up to a grassy ledge 5m below the left end of an overlap. 2. 40m Climb right past the right end of the overlap, then follow a line of pockets upwards to an obvious groove. Climb the groove over a small overlap, then move up and right to a belay. 3. 15m Go leftwards up a smooth slab to finish.
(NR 986 409) Alt 410m West facing Map p217 Diagram p235 This prominent area of slabs lies some 400m south of the main Rosa Slabs and over 300m above the Glen Rosa path. The rock is excellent and in general cleaner and more continuous than the main slabs. Although these slabs are climbable almost anywhere, the routes described provide some of the best middle grade slab climbing on the island. However, as they tend to criss cross each other, it is possible to take discretional belays and to create your very own pitch combinations! Protection is sparse on most routes. Near the centre at the bottom of the slabs an obvious vegetated fault runs up diagonally left. This is the line of Route 1, the original route on the slabs, and it provides a good reference point for locating the start of other routes.
ARRAN Goatfell, South Slabs 7
1. Trundle 2. Pochmahone 3. Route 1
S* VS * D
4. Dogleg 5. Blank 6. Blankist
VS ** VS *** HVS ***
7. Pussyfoot HVS * 8. Long Hot Summer HVS * 9. Girdle S*
ARRAN – Cìr Mhòr, Rosa Pinnacle Lower West Face 8. Arctic Way 10. Lawyer’s Leap
2. Caliban’s Creep VD *** 5. Green Gully VD / II * 6. Fourth Wall S*
HVS ** E1 *
12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 21. 22. 24. 25. 26. 27.
Sou’wester Slabs South Sou’wester Slabs West Point The Iron Fist The Sickle Vanishing Point West Flank Route Hammer Anvil Anvil Recess Start Insertion Insertion Direct Incus South Ridge Direct
VD *** S ** E4 * HVS * E1 ** E4 *** E1 *** VS ** HVS ** HVS ** E3 ** E5 ** E6 ** VS ***
16 25 14
21 24 22
following a line to the left of the twin chimneys taken by The Iron Fist and The Sickle respectively. Start 3m left of the common start of these two routes, and 6m right of the groove of Fourth Wall. 1. 10m 4c Climb directly up the slab to belay on a ledge just left of the chimney of Sickle. 2. 35m 5c Ascend the edge of the left-hand chimney, palming its left arete, until it veers right. Make committing moves left to a thin crack which is climbed to a roof. Move left again into a corner, then go over the roof to a belay. 3. 45m 5b Follow a quartz intrusion rightwards to a rib and follow this to belay below the great overhang. The upper part of West Flank Route can now be climbed, or
traverse off to the right as for Sou’wester Slabs.
15 The Iron Fist 75m HVS * (1978) This route follows the left-hand of the twin chimneys defining the left edge of the great central slab, the righthand one being taken by The Sickle. It is at the upper end of its grade. Start about 10m down from the groove of Fourth Wall, to the left of the start of West Flank Route. 1. 30m 4c Follow the obvious fault slanting up left to a belay on a sloping ledge just below the chimneys. 2. 45m 5b Climb the left-hand chimney, then pull over a bulge into a notch on the rib. Climb the rib and cracks to belay on Sou’wester Slabs below the great overhang.
16 The Sickle 75m E1 ** (1957) Start as for The Iron Fist. The middle section is slow to dry. 1. 30m 4c As for The Iron Fist. 2. 25m 5a Gain and climb the right-hand chimney for 5m, then traverse up and right across a steep bare slab to reach a good flake edge (bold). Follow the flake to below the overlap. Move right and cross the overlap via a deep narrow groove which twins a short distance above and leads to a bollard belay. 3. 20m 4c Continue up the groove in the slab above, then traverse diagonally rightwards using veins of microgranite to reach the big platform at the finish of Sou’wester Slabs. It is also possible to avoid the traverse and climb straight up to below the great overhang. Continue via West Flank Route or Sou’wester Slabs. 17 Vanishing Point 100m E4 *** (1985) This excellent and very bold route, at the top end of the grade, starts up the crack system to the left of the chimney-line of West Flank Route, just left of the bottomless flake-crack in the slab above. 1. 30m 6a Climb the crack system, then traverse right to gain the obvious flake-crack and follow it to belay on the edge above the second chimney of West Flank Route. 2. 45m 4c Step right onto the slab, then follow a direct line to belay below the layback crack on South Ridge Direct. 3. 25m 5c Climb the layback crack for 3m, then break out left to gain a sandwiched slab and groove. Climb this, then go up the headwall above to finish at the top of Sou’wester Slabs.
6. 30m Ascend broken slabs above to a short wall and climb through a recess, moving up a crack to finish on The Terrace.
(1960) 19 Hammer 85m VS ** A good route starting at a tapering slab just to the right of West Flank Route. 1. 25m 4b Climb up onto the slab, then go left to a crack. Follow the crack which becomes a small groove to belay above the first chimney of West Flank Route. 2. 20m 4c Descend a short distance until it is possible to traverse right about 1m into a good crack containing a few tufts of grass. Climb the crack to belay on a large ledge. 3. 40m 4b Climb the crack in the slab above to reach a microgranite vein 5m from its end. Follow a downwardpointing flake rightwards (delicate in places) to a crack, then climb up to belay on South Ridge Direct. Variation: Pocket Slab Variation 4b ** (2005) Climb pitch 3 to where it goes rightwards. Follow a line of pockets up slightly left, then back right. Climb straight up to join South Ridge Direct. Better than the original line.
20 Forge 100m E5 ** (2001) Start a short distance right of Hammer at a broad crack. 1. 50m 5c Climb the crack (in common with Anvil) then the groove and flakes above. When it becomes blank, move right onto the slab and up to pockets. Step right and continue up into a scoop with a tiny flake. Exit the scoop on the right and move up to a shallow angled slab. Just before a bulging section, traverse down and left to reach Hammer. 2. 25m 5b Behind the belay, a line of pockets goes up and right. Follow these until they run out, then go straight up the slab to a horizontal flake-line. Move right to easy ground and belay below the slabby arete on the skyline. 3. 25m 5c Using a short crack come pod on the left side of the arete, make a thin move to gain the arete. Climb the arete on the right for 3m, then make a hard move left onto a boss and further hard moves up to small holds on the slab. Stretch right to good pockets on the very crest and climb direct to join South Ridge Direct.
The next route is more a complex of pitches than a single distinct line. The best route is the combination of the Recess Start and the Variation Finish, although the original route does have its moments.
21 Anvil 55m HVS ** (1960) Start a short distance right of Hammer at a broad crack. 1. 30m 5a Climb the crack to a point just left of the corner of a small overlap. Descend, then traverse right across a steep slab to gain holds on the slab edge leading up through the overlap to a sloping platform. Climb a thin groove to a grass ledge. 2. 15m 4b Climb up leftwards by awkward grassy grooves into a cave. 3. 10m 5a Break out right from the cave and follow an easy shelf to reach South Ridge Direct. Variation: Variation Finish 25m VS 4c ** (1965)
18 West Flank Route 155m E1 *** (1963) A truly classic route following a natural line of chimneys and cracks running diagonally leftwards across the huge central slab. Although at the lower end of its grade, the initial chimneys will provide even the most stylish performer moments of doubt and a deeper insight into the joys of Arran climbing! 1. 20m 5a Climb the first chimney to a belay. 2. 15m 5a Climb the second chimney to a ledge below a small overlap in the slab. 3. 25m 4b Follow the long diagonal crack in the slab above to a big overlap. Move right around the corner into a niche. 4. 30m 5b Step up and left from the niche round an edge into a groove and crack. Follow these to reach a small spike and flake by a rounded layback. The crack now branches. Take the right-hand crack for a metre or so until a move can be made across the slab. Climb to a horizontal crack, then traverse left across the slab (the technical crux) and up to gain a thread belay on Sou’wester Slabs (at the top of a groove). The crux traverse can be avoided by descending to the left from the horizontal crack to the base of a groove which leads to the belay. 5. 35m 4c Climb the corner above the belay, then step left onto a small ledge on a slabby rib. Ascend the rib to the great overhang, then traverse left to gain a wall and continue left around a bulge. Climb up to easier ground and belay.
6 Silo 370m VS (aid) (1968) A formidable climb calling for a wide variety of traditional skills and a high tolerance of slime, loose turf and disintegrating granite. In short, a real adventure! It takes the obvious line of a chimney-fault splitting the great face between Gully A and Gully B1. At about mid-height the fault splits to enclose a huge triangular nose of clean rock. The right fork is taken to finish up the crest of the nose. For a full description see SMCJ 1971.
7 Once in a Lifetime 350m VII,6 *** (1986) This is the natural winter line up the great face in the vicinity of Silo and has its middle pitches in common with that route. When in condition, it is a superb and committing excursion and the hardest winter route on Arran to date. Climb broken ground to reach an ice scoop which falls from a narrow chimney (parallel and to the right of the initial chimney of Silo). Climb the scoop and go up into the chimney-groove system. Pass under a chockstone and 15m above it (below a steepening) traverse down and left, passing a steep groove, to reach a vertical chimney-crack. Climb this and a second shorter chimney-crack above (common to Silo). Mixed ground now leads to a shallow right-trending iced groove (in the right-hand fork of the fault, right of the triangular nose). Climb this with increasing difficulty, passing a big flake on its left at half-height, to make a desperate exit on very thin ice then continue up to a ledge above. Move up and right on complicated ground, then break back left and thence to the top of the face.
8 Gully B1 130m III,4 * (1979) This is the gully bounding the right-hand side of the great face. Steep snow leads to an ice pitch divided by a rock rib. Take the left runnel and easy snow above to a steep funnel shaped ice pitch (crux). A through route leads to the final easy angled pitch. The climb is unpleasant in summer (VD, 1942). The rib on the left of Gully B1 has been climbed and named Ribbish (180m S 1965). It is appalling!
9 Gully B2 135m III,4 (1981) A steepening ice pitch leads to the easier angled upper gully which contains huge jammed blocks. Turn these on the right wall. An alternative start is via a thin rightslanting gully, starting a pitch up Gully B1 and linking it to Gully B2. This link includes an interesting cave with a hole in its roof – the Bottle Dungeon Cave – which should provide some amusement. It is another unpleasant VD in summer (1892).
10 B2C Rib 70m VD (1895) Start near the bottom right-hand corner of the rib between Gully B2 and Gully C. 1. 40m Climb a series of co-linear grooves near the right edge to reach a large grassy ledge. 2. 30m From the left end of the ledge, move up a short distance, then climb a thin groove to a niche just left of a little overhang. Move slightly right, then climb the overhang on good holds to finish in Gully B2. Variation: A
About 30m up the original route traverse to the left edge of the rib and climb up on good holds to reach the niche on the parent route. Variation: B From the top of the first pitch on the original route traverse right to the edge and finish up that.
(1979) 11 Gully C 180m V,5 ** Easy snow leads to a big cave pitch, turned on the right. Continue up the gully, narrowing to a groove with several tricky pitches, to reach a chockstone constriction. Pass under this, then go up easier snow to belay in a recess. Take a left traverse via a flake to gain the final snow slope.
12 Beyond the Pale 125m E2 ** (1985) A fine and intimidating route which climbs the great tapering slab between Gully C and Gully D. It is slow to dry and dry conditions are highly desirable! Start to the left of the pothole at the base of the slab (left of Pothole Slab). 1. 25m 4c Climb a direct line up the slab to the left end of an obvious ledge. 2. 45m 5c Move right a few metres, then ascend directly to an undercut flake. Climb out left from this, ascend to a short gangway, then climb right to cracks. Ascend up and left across a wall to an easing in the angle. Move up and right to a ledge. 3. 40m 5b Move right from the ledge and climb up and left to a crack which leads to a line of roofs. Trend up and right, following this line for about 20m, to a ledge and belay. 4. 15m 4c Climb trending left and follow a pocketed slab to the top.
13 Pothole Slab 115m HVS * (1968) The pioneering route up these slabs is slightly spoiled by a rather messy middle section. Start just left of the prominent pothole at the base of the clean sweep of slabs. 1. 25m 4c Pad straight up the slab until it is possible to step left onto a small ledge. 2. 35m 4b Traverse rightwards along a thin vein, past a groove, then climb straight up to a ledge and belay. 3. 30m Climb up messy broken ground to belay in a wet corner. 4. 25m 5a Move right up a short crack, then step left into a corner. Climb the strenuous flake-crack curving left to a groove (crux) which finishes abruptly on open ground.
14 Pan’s Pipe 90m IV,3 ** (1981) This is probably the best pure ice climb on the island. It takes the obvious thin smear up the slabs to the left of Gully D in two long pitches on reasonably angled ice, but with no protection.
15 Pan’s Pillar 95m HVS * (1979) This route tackles the cigar shaped pillar lying against the slabs just to the left of Gully D. 1. 45m 5a Gain the pillar and follow the right edge with difficulty to a small thread runner at 30m. Continue
straight up for a short way, then trend left onto a delicate slab leading to the top of the pillar. 2. 50m 4c Move right up a short slab to a ledge and continue up water worn slabs to a thin crack. Trend right to the bottom of a narrow grassy strip and follow this to the top. If dry, the thin crack gives a better finish.
16 Gully D 85m II This short gully, also known as Trap Dyke Climb, lies to the right of the main slabs. It is an unpleasant M in summer (1894).
ARRAN – Cìr Mhòr, Upper North-East Face 27 29 25
UPPER NORTH-EAST FACE
This is the complex area of the face dropping from the summit of Cìr Mhòr, bounded on the left by The Wedge and on the right by Western Stoneshoot.
17 Stoneshoot Ridge 120m D (1891) This ill-defined vegetated ridge lies to the immediately right of The Wedge and forms the left retaining wall of Eastern Stoneshoot. A thoroughly disgusting and dangerous climb!
18 Eastern Stoneshoot 120m II (1979) This is the obvious gully immediately right of The Wedge with an ice pitch to start. Not surprisingly, it is unclimbed in summer.
19 Bow Window Cave M (1894) This large cave, formed of jammed boulders, can be accessed from near the top and left of Stoneshoot Ridge or by ascending directly from The Wedge. Although more of a feature than a climb, a journey up through this cave provides some amusement and perhaps gave rise to the expression ‘much scrambling in curious places’.
21 Bell’s Groove 60m VD * (1894) An interesting route finishing at the top of the mountain. Start about 30m below Summit Chimney. Scramble up into a grassy bay on the right, then climb a short chimney at the back to gain a recess behind a huge block. Continue up to a grass platform, behind which a narrow chimney slants up. This is the ‘Groove’ and its ascent requires some good, old fashioned thrutching, with the start proving especially repellent. Beyond the ‘Groove’, climb straight up to the summit.
22 Naismith and Haskett-Smith Route 60m M (1896) This route follows the obvious rising traverse across the summit gable, parallel to the approach to the ‘Groove’ on Bell’s Groove, but a little below it. Poor climbing but fine situations.
14. 16. 18. 23. 24. 25. 27. 29.
Pan’s Pipe Gully D Eastern Stoneshoot Shelf Gully MacLay’s Chimney NE Face Route Pinnacle Ridge Western Stoneshoot
IV ** II II II II IV ** D / III *** M / II*
23 Shelf Gully 90m II (1983) This gully is the first breach to the right of Eastern Stoneshoot. It normally gives two short pitches. It is repulsive in summer (VD, 1896).
24 MacLay’s Chimney 75m II (1983) This lies just to the left of the wide start of Western Stoneshoot. It normally holds one ice pitch in the narrow upper section. Again, a repulsive VD in summer (1896).
25 North-East Face Route 245m IV,5 ** (1983) A fine route, sustained in its upper reaches. Start by climbing either Shelf Gully or MacLay’s Chimney to gain
20 Summit Chimney 30m M (1891) Above the finish of Stoneshoot Ridge, steep gravely slopes lead up to a grassy neck near the east ridge of the mountain. To the right of this, a prominent chimney splits the steep east side of the mountain. Climb the chimney.
by climbing straight up or follow a subterranean passage leftwards to reach the ridge nearer the summit. Winter: III,4 *** (1985) When in full conditions, this is a classic climb with superb situations. Start below the pitch in Western Stoneshoot. Traverse up and left to the edge and follow the true ridge by the line of least resistance.
28 Bypass Route 210m II ** (1983) Start on the left at the base of Western Stoneshoot. Follow a succession of grooves, each slightly right of the other, on the right of Pinnacle Ridge to the final col. Finish straight up.
29 Western Stoneshoot 140m M (1893) This wide deep cut gully divides the Upper North-East Face from Stoneshoot Buttress. It is largely filled with unstable rubble with one short pitch at about midheight. It forks some distance above the pitch, the left fork being the main gully. Winter: II * An atmospheric route with one ice pitch about midheight. In heavy snow conditions this can bank out reducing the grade to I, when it provides a useful descent route.
Right Fork/Right Branch, III,4, Cir Mhòr, Scott Muir on the through route (photo Graham Little) the Upper Shelf. Follow it to its termination above the Eastern Stoneshoot, traversing below and beyond the prominent plinth of rock. Reach a small snowy bay immediately to the right of a large slabby buttress with a short narrow chimney on the right (holding a large chockstone). Climb a groove to the left of the chimney, then trend left and go up steep grooves to a large snowy ramp abutting steep slabs above. Negotiate the slabs by climbing a steep narrow ramp to reach a further snowy ramp and a cave. Exit right from the cave and trend left up steep mixed ground to gain the upper groove of Bell’s Groove. Climb up immediately right of this groove, then follow another groove diagonally up left over slabs and go back right to finish on the summit.
26 First Pinnacle Chimney 45m VD (1958) A series of chimneys seam the eastern flank of Pinnacle Ridge. This climb follows the one between the first and second pinnacles and is reached from the Upper Shelf.
27 Pinnacle Ridge 140m D (1894) This ridge, holding four pinnacles, runs from the top of the great plinth above the Upper Shelf towards the main western ridge of the mountain. Although not seen from the corrie, it comes into view from the foot of the Western Stoneshoot. The best approach to the ridge proper is from this point via vegetated rock ramps. The ridge is well defined and in places narrow. Follow the crest to the gap before the last pinnacle, where a short right traverse is necessary to avoid an overhang. The ridge ends at a little col separating it from the mountain’s main west ridge. From the col, either gain the west ridge
30 Right Fork/Right Branch 65m III,4 ** (1996) A fine dramatic climb with a very tight squeeze through route at the top – not for the overweight! Start at the junction with the main gully. 1. 20m Ascend easy snow from the fork to reach a second fork. 2. 25m Take the very thin right-hand branch which leads to a belay below a huge cluster of jammed blocks (the left-hand branch links back into the main gully via a short pitch and a ledge – Grade II). 3. 20m Climb up under the blocks to the back of the chimney. Force your body up through an improbable constriction to gain freedom and the ridge above.
31 Mixed Emotions 120m V,5 ** (1996) An enjoyable and varied route taking the obvious wide based tapering slabby rib that rises on the left-hand side of Western Stoneshoot at its fork. This rib is bounded on the left by a wide shelf and on the right by an open vegetated groove. The middle section of this route coincides with Garrick’s Route. 1. 25m Climb a short chimney-groove on the right of a big rock bulge. Continue up to an overlap. Traverse left to belay on the edge. 2. 35m Move back right, then climb a superb rightangled slabby corner holding a thin ribbon of turf to reach the apex of the rib and easier ground. Ascend this to belay at the next steepening. 3. 35m Climb a short wide crack on the right, then continue up to join the right-flanking groove just below its top. Ascend this to belay on a big block at a tiny col beneath the headwall. This col is separated from the final col on Pinnacle Ridge by a stretch of easy ground. 4. 25m Gain the narrow chimney directly above the belay, pass under a chockstone, then make exposed moves up and left to gain the ridge. A meaty pitch!
traversed by Pompiere). 3. 30m 5a Enter a slim groove, on the right flank of an obvious rib, directly above. Climb this until it becomes a crack, then make a difficult left exit onto a small rock ledge. Climb straight up to finish.
10 Pompiere 90m VS (1968) Near the right-hand side of the crag in its upper half there is a prominent right-facing right-angled corner. This circuitous route takes a long left traverse in from the upper right-hand edge of the crag to climb the corner. Start at the base of a right-facing fault at the upper right edge of the crag. 1. 30m 4c Climb the slim wall (effectively the right wall of the fault) to a block covered platform. 2. 10m Traverse left onto the face and go left again to gain a grass ledge and block belay. 3. 20m 4c Walk left to the end of the ledge, drop down, then traverse left across a wall to a rock ledge below the foot of the prominent corner. 4. 30m 4c Climb the corner-crack to reach easier ground and thence the top. Variation: 30m S Starting from the block belay at the end of pitch 2, move up, take a right trending gangway and climb the crack above.
OUTLYING AREAS & SEA-CLIFFS
TÒRR NEAD AN EOIN
ARRAN Other crags To Claonaig Lochranza
TÒRR NEAD AN EOIN
Goatfell Mullach Buidhe
S t r in
Blackwaterfoot Whiting Bay
13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23.
Tòrr Nead an Eoin .............................p271 Mullach Buidhe, North-West Ridge ...p273 An Tunna ..........................................p273 King’s Cave ......................................p273 Drumadoon Point ..............................p273 Bennan Head....................................p275 Dippen Head ....................................p275 Holy Island, Creag Liath ....................p275 Maol Donn .......................................p275 Conglomerate Crag ...........................p276 Fallen Rocks.....................................p276
3. 35m Finish straight up on good rock.
2 Schist Buttress 65m S This is the original route on the shallow diagonal groove starting finishing near the top on the left. step right on the grass terrace and join Aquila.
(1947) face, following the near the base and A better finish is to climb straight up to
3 Accipiter 65m VS (1991) Start at an open crack between Schist Buttress and Aquila.
1 First Footing 75m VS * (1967) This climb lies on the left side of the main face and starts 4m left of a line of black overhangs. 1. 20m 4c Climb a wall and trend left and up until a move right can be made at 12m (the rock requires care). Move right and up to the grass terrace to belay beside a small tree. 2. 20m 4b Climb the steep wall behind the tree, then move up and right to a belay beside a detached flake.
This section describes the climbing away form the main mountain massif. Climbs are described starting from Lochranza in the north and following the A841 coastal road in an anti-clockwise direction.
(NR 949 493) Alt 210m West facing Map p271 Diagram p272 This geologically interesting crag lies on the west face of a rounded hill about 2.5km south-east of Lochranza. The cleanest section of crag, roughly pyramidal in shape, is composed of schist. It is bounded by broken ground on the left and by a messy gully on the right (Verdant Gully). Immediately left of this gully is a tower like mass of rock, teeming with overhangs, which is separated from the main face by a part grassy rake, hidden from below. It is probably the most interesting of the outlying rcrags and provides a pleasant contrast to Arran granite. Approach: Take a path up the west side of the burn from the road bridge at NR 943 498 to the south of Lochranza. Cross the burn at a weir then head up to the crag in about 20mins.
TÒRR NEAD AN EOIN
ARRAN – Tòrr Nead an Eoin
8 4 9
1. First Footing 2. Schist Buttress 3. Accipiter
VS * S VS
4. Aquila 5. The Pitch 6. Eilythia
1. 10m Climb straight up the crack, bypassing a large fragile flake on the left. Belay at the far right end of a terrace. 2. 25m Climb a short steep wall, then veer left and climb to the right of a shallow ramp. 3. 30m Continue straight up to the top on small holds, finishing just left of Aquila.
4 Aquila 90m VD * (1950) A good climb up the best natural line on the face, following the prominent deep diagonal groove. 1. 20m Climb the groove to a stance below a steepening slab. The right wall is deeply undercut here. 2. 25m Climb a steep little wall on small holds and continue up past a ledge to a second ledge and belay. 3. 25m Continue up to a good stance in a recess. 4. 20m Finish more or less straight up. The wall behind gives a final scramble to the top.
5 The Pitch 25m HVS 5a (1968) Climb the first pitch of Aquila until left of a prominent roof. Climb the wall and break through overhangs to finish on the terrace.
6 Eilythia 65m S (1967) This route is on the upper tower, starting some 12m up the rake separating it from the main face, at a crack with some small trees growing at its base. A small gangway slants up the left side of the tower. 1. 30m Climb the gangway to a belay.
VD * HVS S
7. Atreus 8. Dumperama 9. Verdant Gully
HVS HVS VD
2. 30m The upper part of the gangway becomes grassy. Move right and climb a steep wall on good holds to a block. 3. 5m Move right again to reach a corner and climb it to easy ground.
7 Atreus 45m HVS 5a (1969) Start 6m below Eilythia. The rock requires some care. Climb onto the slabs on the right and follow these for about 12m to a crack. Climb the crack to the overhang, then follow a V shaped groove above the overhang to the top of the tower.
8 Dumperama 45m HVS (1979) A loose but challenging line up the left wall of Verdant Gully. Start at the bottom of Verdant Gully below a black lichen covered wall on the left wall of the gully. Climb the wall for 5m, move left into a green groove, then climb it past a loosely wedged block and move up left to a small heather ledge. Climb the loose wall above to an overhanging nose, then go past this on the left to reach a broken wall and so the top.
9 Verdant Gully 60m VD (1946) The messy gully to the right of the tower. The rock, where it appears, is not to be trusted.
A girdle traverse of the cliff has been made, starting on the left-hand side of the face at about half-height. It is a poor climb, about VS, becoming easier as one progresses.
with a groove-crack system at either side and capped by an overhang. Climb the wall and either crack to the roof. Move left round the roof on loose blocks and gain the top.
(1986) Electrickery 20m S 4b Climb the groove 4m left of the previous route. The groove widens and can be entered before the top.
Giv’em Enough Volts 20m VS 4c * (1986) Follow the wide crack 3m left of Electrickery. A long run out in the middle leads to a ledge on the right and some protection. Move back out right and climb the crack to finish.
Short Circuit 20m VS 4c (1986) Climb the groove immediately right of Tellingbone to a small ledge on the left, then go up a shallow groove to join Tellingbone and finish as for that route.
Tellingbone 20m VS 4b * (1986) About 25m left of Give’em Enough Volts is a chimney ending at half-height in an overhang. Above this are twin parallel cracks. Climb this to a ledge on the right, then climb a crack just right again to an overhang block which provides a finish on good holds.
Do Androids Dream of Electric Sheep 20m VS 4c (1986) A large section of the bottom half of the columns has fallen away, leaving a roof at half-height and a wide chimney-crack to finish. The bottom wall up to the roof is very loose. From its top, make difficult moves left under the roof to become established in the crack. Several finishes are possible.
Electro-Therapy 25m VS 4b (1985) This route takes the groove and the right-sloping crack at the top, 50m from the left end of the cliff.
Black Cave Pillar 65m HVS * (1979) An enjoyable route taking the striking pillar to the right of the Black Cave. It is best climbed early in the year before the cliff’s plentiful vegetation takes control. The final belay is on stakes driven into the turf on the flat top of the crag; before tackling the climb it would be wise to confirm that they are still in place!
1. 25m 4b Start centrally and climb trending left to a groove which leads to a right traverse and a way up to ledges and a belay below the overhangs. 2. 20m 5a Move right to blocks and gain the wall above with difficulty. Step left and climb the wall until it is possible to traverse right into a small recess under twin cracks. Follow the cracks to a ledge and belay. 3. 20m 4c Traverse 3m left and start up a short slabby wall to gain a small ledge left of a little shattered pillar under an overhang. Swing right around the pillar to gain the main corner, pull over a detached flake, then climb to the final corner which leads to the top. A sustained pitch with some dubious rock.
(NS 050 221) South-East facing Map p271 This coastal cliff stretches for over 1.5km below the village of Dippen in the south-east of the island. Steep and rising to a height of about 30m it is composed of variable quality rock. A number of routes have been climbed but not recorded. Pigs may interfere with climbing activity! Approach: Parking is problematic. The cliff can be approached from the north or south but given access difficulties asking permission makes sense.
(NS 060 300) Map p271 This steep and rocky island plugs the mouth of Lamlash Bay. It is now used as a retreat by the Buddhist Samye Ling Community. There are a number of crags, the vertical Creag Liath (NS 062 293) being the best. A number of routes have been climbed but not recorded. An energetic swim from Kingscross Point is fine preparation for a spot of cragging or meditation! Approach: By boat from Lamlash.
GLENSHANT HILL – CREAG ROSA
(NR 992 387) Alt 250m South facing These small schist crags lie high above Glen Rosa on the southern spur of Glenshant Hill. They are of limited interest. A prominent split pinnacle lies to the west of these crags and is well seen from the bridge over the Garbh Allt. It was first climbed in 1907.
(NS 018 409) Alt 250m North facing Map p271 This interesting sandstone crag takes it name from its parent hill which lies about 3km south of the village of Corrie and about 1km from the coast road. The cleanest rock lies nearest to the sea, elsewhere the rock is fairly heavily vegetated. The recorded climbs are interesting and worth doing. The most obvious feature on the crag is a deep-cut chimney (The Chimney). The routes are described from right to left.
(NR 993 203) Non-tidal South facing Map p271 This headland is the most southerly point on Arran. It provides one good, long route which is well worth a visit as a contrast to the granite in the north or when the mountain crags are wet. Approach: From a small quarry, visible from the main road, follow the farm track past Craigdhu, taking the right-hand branch to its end. Walk over the fields southwards to the highest point of the cliff where a path zigzags down the slope. Follow the path to the beach, then go along to the Black Cave (a prehistoric dwelling).
2006 Oct 8 2006 Oct 8 2006 Oct 8 2006 Oct 8 2006 Oct 8 2006 Oct 9 2006 Oct 9
Little Cracker, Birthday Girl Wee Doris Short Haul On the Rocks Southern Comfort Face Value Game of Two Halves
Upper Bunkhouse Crag 2006 Oct 9 Blowin’ in the Wind 2006 Oct 9 Like a Rolling Stone 2006 Oct 9 Hers 2006 Oct 10 Bob Dylan’s Dream 2006 Oct 10 Don’t Think Twice 2006 Oct 10 His 2006 Oct 10 Band of the Hand, Pressing On, Chimes of Freedom 2007 Jul 23 Bob 2007 Jul 23 Forever Young 2007 Jul 23 Lone Pilgrim, Dark Eyes 2008 Aug 6 Spot the Ball The Watch Tower 2003 Sep 13 Submerged Rock 2007 June 9 Wave Crag 2003 Sep 14 2003 Sep 15 2003 Sep 15 2003 Nov 30 2003 Dec 1
2003 Dec 2 2004 Mar 1 2004 May 8 2004 May 8 2004 May 9 2004 May 9 2004 Oct 9 2005 Jul 1 2006 Jul 1 2006 Jul 16
Middle Rock 2005 Jul 1
Fun Buttress 2004 Aug 3 2004 Oct 8 2004 Oct 8 2004 Oct 8 2004 Oct 8
The Fortress 2003 Aug 2 2003 Aug 2 2003 Aug 3 2003 Aug 3 2003 Sep 14 2003 Sep 14 2004 Feb 29
P.Whillance, S.Bennett P.Whillance, A.Jackson, S.Bennett P.Whillance, A.Jackson A.Jackson, S.Bennett, P.Whillance A.Jackson, K.Bennett, P.Whillance P.Whillance, A.Jackson A.Jackson, P.Whillance P.Whillance, K.Bennett P.Whillance, S.Bennett S.Bennett, P.Whillance P.Whillance, K.Bennett P.Whillance K.Bennett, P.Whillance
P.Whillance, S.Bennett K.Bennett, P.Whillance P.Whillance, K.Bennett P.Whillance P.Whillance, C.Grindley
The Pipeline The Tube Breaker, Myrtle the Turtle Surf’s Up, Catch a Wave, I Get Around, Good Vibrations, Flying Butt. Left, Central, Right Slip on Through, Finding Nemo, The Beach Boys, California Girls, Big Sur Island Fever, Still Cruisin’ Minnow, Smolt, The Wrong Trousers Canna Jammer Ernsie Bay Side Surf Don’t Back Down Finders Keepers Wipe Out Heroes and Villains, Wouldn’t it be Nice God Only Knows, Losers Weepers
P.Whillance, A.Jackson, K.Bennett P.Whillance, A.Jackson, K.Bennett K.Bennett, A.Jackson, P.Whillance
P.Whillance P.Whillance K.Bennett, P.Whillance P.Whillance, K.Bennett K.Bennett, A.Jackson, P.Whillance K.Bennett, P.Whillance, A.Jackson A.Jackson, P.Whillance, K.Bennett A.Jackson, P.Whillance, K.Bennett P.Whillance, K.Bennett P.Whillance, K.Bennett, S.Bennett C.Moody, C.Grindley
To Go Boldly
Chuckle Brothers Laughter Line Comedy Crack, Cracking Up Side Splitter Caught Short
K.Bennett P.Whillance, K.Bennett, A.Jackson K.Bennett, A.Jackson, P.Whillance A.Jackson, P.Whillance, K.Bennett A.Jackson
The Bastille Battle of the Bulge Battle of Evermore Jericho Corner Masada Pinnacle Helm’s Deep The Alamo
P.Whillance, T.Lofthouse T.Lofthouse, P.Whillance T.Lofthouse, P.Whillance P.Whillance, T.Lofthouse P.Whillance, A.Jackson, K.Bennett P.Whillance (unseconded) P.Whillance, K.Bennett
1990 May Will’s Will Thrift is a Virtue 1993 May22 The Jagged Edge 1993 May 23 Waiting for God 1993 May 23 Beachcomber Slab 1993 May 23 1993 May 23 Limpet Groove 1993 May 26 The Mission 1993 May 27 Walking on Sunshine 1993 May 25 Route 367936 1997 May 3 Closer to God 1997 May 3 Black Slab 1997 May 8 Staring at the Sun 1997 May 8 Out of the Fridge 1997 May 8 Knocking on Heaven’s Door First attempted in a snowstorm! 1997 May 8 Flat Muffin Society 2002 Jun 14 Rose Rib 2002 Jun 15 Crex Wall 2002 Jun 15 Blunt Rib 2005 Jul Notanotter 2005 Jul Back in the Rythm 2010 Aug 7 Uragaig Wall 2011 May 24 Gardener’s Question Time 2011 May 24 Squall Wall 2012 Aug 11 Hangman’s Rock
ORONSAY 1987 Jun 1993 May 25 2002 Jun 11 2008 Aug 6 2008 Aug 6 ISLAY 1970 1970 1999 Oct 14 2000 Apr 22 2000 Apr 22 2000 Apr 23 2000 Apr 23 2000 Apr 23 2000 Apr 23 2000 Apr 23 2000 Apr 23 2000 Apr 24 2000 Jul 21
Priory Slab Hairy Habit Groove Route 1, Route 2 Columba’s Ramp Stranded
South Ridge, Beinn Mhòr Dùn Athad Arete Family Values, Sons and Daughters La Grooveulin Blackback Crack Harry’s Route Eilean Arete Bar Wars Darth Maureen Mr Bridge Prince of Tides Slatehead Arete Boulder Wall, Quartz Seam Traverse, Little Miss Snappy, Nighean’s Delight, Maiden’s Slab, I Dun It 2002 Apr 2 Small Boy Waiting An obvious case of child neglect! 2002 Apr 4 Black Jack, Ace of Spades, Darkness into Light 2002 Apr 5 Pretty in Pink, Burnt Umber, Raw Umber, Aquamarine 2002 Jul 12 Rust, Amber, Chrome Yellow, Graphite Edge 2002 Jul 12 Yellow Ochre 2002 Jul 13 Rampant Razorbill, Gallus Guillemot, Crafty Cormorant 2003 Apr 17 Sacrum Crack 2003 Apr 17 Sunshine Slab 2003 Apr 24 The Big Splash 2003 Apr 24 Treasure Chest 2004 Apr 11 Flash Crack 2004 Apr 11 In a Flash, The Genie 2004 Apr 12 Uncle Fester, Lurch 2004 Apr 16 Principle of Moments
J.A.Spencer G.E.Little G.E.Little, W.Skidmore, J.Finlay J.Finlay, G.E.Little J.Finlay G.E.Little, J.Finlay G.E.Little, J.Finlay G.E.Little, J.Finlay W.Skidmore, J.Finlay, J.Finlay G.E.Little, K.Howett G.E.Little, K.Howett G.E.Little, K.Howett K.Howett, G.E.Little K.Howett, G.E.Little
G.E.Little, K.Howett M.Hudson, A.Hutt M.Hudson M.Hudson, A.Hutt J.Spencer J.Spencer E.Ash, T.Loftus E.Ash, D.Sykes E.Ash, D.Sykes, T.Bridgeland B.Davison
J.A.Spencer G.E.Little, J.Finlay M.Hudson, A. Hutt G.J.Lynn G.J.Lynn
R.Cuthbert, N.Tennent D.McLeod, I.McLeod, R.Cuthbert, N.Tennent G.E.Little, N.Kemp G.E.Little, S.Muir G.E.Little G.E.Little S.Muir, G.E.Little, A.Muir S.Muir S.Muir, G.E.Little, A.Muir G.E.Little, S.Muir, A.Muir G.E.Little, S.Muir G.E.Little, S.Muir J.R.Mackenzie G.E.Little, C.Woodrow G.E.Little
G.E.Little G.E.Little G.E.Little, C.Woodrow
G.E.Little G.E.Little, C.Woodrow G.E.Little, R.W.Little G.E.Little, R.W.Little, C.Woodrow G.E.Little, C.Woodrow G.E.Little, C.Woodrow G.E.Little (unseconded) G.E.Little (unseconded) G.E.Little (unseconded)
2004 Jul 26 2005 Aug 7
2005 Oct 21 2005 Oct 21 2006 Aug 12 2006 Aug 12 2007 Apr 12 2007 Apr 13 2007 Apr 13 2007 Oct 7 2007 Oct 7 2007 Oct 10 2007 Oct 10 2008 Jun 30 2008 Jul 4 2008 Jul 4 2009 Jun 27 2010 Jul 10 2010 Jul 12 2010 Aug 8 2010 Aug 10 2010 Oct 12 2011 Apr 9 2011 May 1 2011 Aug 3 2011 Aug 3 2012 Apr 5 2012 Oct 8 2013 Apr 3
2013 Apr 7 2013 Apr 7 2013 Apr 9 2013 May 15
2013 June 17 2013 June 17 2013 June 24 2013 Aug 16
2000 16 Jul 2005 17 Oct
CARA 1990 Sep 15 1990 Sep 16 1990 Sep 16 1995 May 13 1995 May 13 1995 May 13 1995 May 14
ARRAN Beinn Nuis S 1895 Jul 6 S 1897 S 1897 S 1897 S 1901 Aug 18 W 1907 S 1943 Jun 27 S 1946 Apr
Morticia Profit and Lossit, Lossit Leader, Hopelessly Lossit, Lossit Property Way of the Wind Wish in Vain, Structural Irony On the Face of It Billy Goatâ€™s Groove Gomez Family Friendly En Passant Atavist Right Hand, Atonement Aversion Avatar Groove, Aprobation Atavist Left Hand, Abutment Abridgement, Alchemist Turning the Other Cheek Nanny Goatâ€™s Wall Aldosterone Groove, Altercation, Animist Living the Dream, Decoding Reality Above the White, Digital Romance Hula Dollies Delight Mellow Yellow Indian Summer Place Your Bets, Bansko Babes Generation Game First Rib, Slim Groove, As Good as it Gets Black Corner and Slab Black Wall, Recess Wall Breaking the Waves Up and Right, Simple Pleasures, Above the Boulder The Right Edge, Up and Left Own Fault The God of Smaull Things, Mind the Gap Smaull is Beautiful, Diagonal, Go West, West Side Story Archaeopteryx Faultless Seven Seas Topographic Ocean
Over a dozen routes climbed at Lagg
Jurassic Nipple October Groove
M.Shaw, M.Bagness, M. Boyle, D.Richie, R. Rozga, C. Rozga B.Brierly, P.Thorne G.E.Little
Rubha Rib Cara Corner Thomas Traverse Caraway Caracontortion Carapace Carachameleon
G.E.Little, R.Reid G.E.Little, R.Reid R.Reid, G.E.Little G.E.Little, K.Howett, C. Woodrow K.Howett, G.E.Little K.Howett, G.E.Little G.E.Little, K. Howett
Gully 5 Gully 1 Gully 2 Green Gully Nuis Chimney (Gully 3) Gully 4 Sucker Slabs Anvil Gully
Messrs. Boyd & Green W.Inglis Clark, H.Raeburn W.Inglis Clark, H.Raeburn W.Inglis Clark, H.Raeburn Messrs. Baker, L.J.Oppenheimer, Puttrell H.MacRobert G.C.Curtis, H.K.Moneypenny, G.H.Townend G.C.Curtis, M.H.J. Hawkins, E.J.W.Morrison
R.Anderson, C.Anderson G.E.Little, R.W.Little G.E.Little (unseconded) G.E.Little (unseconded) G.E.Little, C.Woodrow G.E.Little (unseconded) G.E.Little, C. Woodrow, R.W.Little G.E.Little (unseconded) G.E.Little, C.Woodrow G.E.Little (unseconded) G.E.Little (unseconded) G.E.Little, R.W.Little G.E.Little, C.Woodrow G.E.Little (unseconded) G.E.Little, C.Woodrow G.E.Little (unseconded) G.E.Little (unseconded) G.E.Little, C.Woodrow G.E.Little (unseconded) G.E.Little, R.W.Little G.E.Little, C.Woodrow G.E.Little (unseconded) G.E.Little G.E.Little, R.W.Little G.E.Little G.E.Little G.E.Little, C.Woodrow G.E.Little (solo) G.E.Little, R.W.Little G.E.Little (unseconded) G.E.Little (unseconded)
G.E.Little (solo) G.E.Little (unseconded) G.E.Little G.E.Little G.E.Little, C.Woodrow
W 1970 Feb 15 Nuis Chimney (Gully 3) The first modern winter route on Arran and still the best Right On S 1970 Jun 27 Extensive aid was used; the route is probably unrepeated Gully 5 W 1987 Feb 21 W 1995 Dec 28 Anvil Gully W 1995 Dec 28 Gully 1 W 1995 Dec 28 Gully 2 W 1995 Dec 29 The Strand A pointer to the future? S 2001 May 20 Ealta Rib W 2013 Apr 1 After the Storm After the heaviest snowfall on Arran in living memory! W 2013 Apr 2 The Nuis’s Tooth Beinn Tarsuinn S 1933 S 1941 Jul 23
I.G.Rowe, D.S.B.Wright P.Craig, A.Walker G.E.Little G.E.Little G.E.Little S.Kennedy, A.Nelson
C.Reid, S.J.H.Reid S.McFarlane, S.Richardson
Woolpack E.W.Hodge & party W.Carr, H.Grant, F.Grant, G.McKinley, C.McPherson, W.Russel, A.Slack S 1944 Apr 30 Hanging Gully G.C.Curtis, R.K.Fraser, H.K.Moneypenny, G.H.Townend S 1944 Aug 20 Meadow Grooves G.C.Curtis, H.K.Moneypenny, E.J.W.Morrison S 1944 Aug 20 Meadow Slabs G.C.Curtis, H.K.Moneypenny, E.J.W.Morrison S 1947 Apr 1 Tarsuinn No. 1 Chimney D.H.Haworth S 1962 Aug 18 The Rake W.Skidmore, R.T.Richardson Two points of aid. Although messy, the first major line on the Meadow Face S 1962 Aug 18 Slant P.McKenzie, N.Mcphie S 1966 Sep 18 Brachistrochrone M.Galbraith, A. McKeith Extensive aid was used. FFA: 26 May 1974, M.Lynch, E.Cleasby S 1967 Jul 22 Bogle I.G.Rowe, I.Dundas Extensive aid was used. FFA: J.Perrin, Aug 1976 – ‘20 feet of ferocious fist jamming’ S 1969 Jun 14 The Curver R.Carrington, I.Fulton S 1969 Sep 12 Voodoo Chile G.E.Little, J.Dykes Eight points of aid, later reduced to four by G.E.Little and R.J.Little, 15 Apr 1979. FFA: R.McAllister, M.Reed, 29 May 1993 S 1971 Aug 21 The Blinder W.Skidmore, J.Crawford Two points of aid; the subject of much competition (both real and imagined). FFA: J.Perrin, Aug 1976. Improved variation to Pitch 4: R.Stevenson, N.Stevenson, 31 May 1991 S 1975 Apr Brobdingnag I.F.Duckworth, J.Fraser, W.G.Smith Four points of aid, consolidating on earlier efforts by I.G.Rowe and G. Cohen – a major line W 1983 Summit Gully N.Marshall, M.Bailley S 1988 May 21 The Rake Direct G.A.McEwan, A.Walker S 1993 May 29 All Along the Watchtower A.Fraser, R.McAllister S 1993 May 29 Solpadeine G.Borland, M.Sayers S 1993 May 29 Tight Squeeze M.Sayers, G.Borland W 1994 Jan 15 Meadow Slabs P.Hyde, G.Szuca S 1994 Jul 27 Baron Samedi A. Fraser, K.Douglas S 1995 Aug 5 Blundecral G.E.Little, K.Howett The last great problem on the Meadow Face? Blunderbuss Finish: A.Fraser, R.McAllister, 31 Aug 1995. True Finish: R.McAllister, D.McGimpsey, 14 Aug 1996. A bold and technical pitch S 1995 Sep 20 Gulliver’s Travels A. Fraser, R.McAllister W 1996 Mar 30 The Wayward Seaman S.McFarlane, A.Reid S 1998 May 16 Snakes and Ladders C.Moody, W.Hood S 2000 May 9 Draugen M.Robson, T.Ward S 2007 Apr Sunshine Edge W.Hood, B.Williamson Tarsuinn No. 2 Chimney
Beinn a’ Chliabhain S 1945 Sep Haakon’s Highway S 1960 The Big Slab W 2003 Jan 4 Haakon’s Highway
A’ Chir S 1892 Jan 30
A’ Chir Ridge
Gully 4 Gully 8
Mr & Mrs G.S.Johnstone J.W.Simpson G.E.Little, C.Schaschke T.F.S.Campbell, W.Douglas,J.H.Gibson, H.Fleming, R.A.Robertson & Dr Leith H.MacRobert H.MacRobert
302 S S S S S
1908 Jun 1911 Jul 1933 1943 May 25 1943 Jul 4
H.MacRobert, W.A.Morrison A.Arthur, H.MacRobert E.W.Hodge & party G.H.Townend, G.C.Curtis G.C.Curtis, H.J.Dunster, H.K.Moneypenny, G.H.Townend Pitch 5 Variation I: G.C.Curtis, Jul 1943. Pitch 5 Variation II: G.M.Johnston, M.Palmer, Mr King, 1944 S 1943 Sep 12 Gaints Staircase G.H.Townend, H.J.Dunster S 1943 Sep 12 Imposter Crack H.J.Dunster, G.H.Townend S 1943 Sep 19 Slab and Flake Route G.H.Townend, G.C.Curtis, H.F.Dunster S 1944 Jun 11 Gully 7 G.C.Curtis, G.H.Townend S 1944 Jun 11 7-8 Buttress G.C.Curtis, G.H.Townend S 1947 Mar 30 Birthday Chimney P.W.Bedford, D.H.Haworth S 1958 Apr Leaning Block Chimney G.W.Hamilton, J.M.Johnston, W.Wallace S 1958 Nov 22 November Chimney J.W.Simpson, W.Wallace S 1961 May Hangover Slabs A.Cowmeadow, J.Stewart S 1961 May Afterthought A.Cowmeadow, J.Stewart S 1968 Apr Minaret J.R.Jackson, J.Park, J.M.Shaw Several points of aid were used S 1968 Jul 20 Mosque I.Fulton, J.M.Shaw This ascent did much to enhance the reputation of the Coire Daingean cliffs S 1974 Apr 14 Intruder J.Mackenzie, B.Clarke S 1974 Aug 18 Chestnut Edge J.Mackenzie, B.Clarke S 1977 Jun Na Ciste W. McKerrow, D.Nichols, A.Nisbet, G.S.Strange S 1977 May 27 Lower Right Chimney N. McPherson, C.Moody S 1978 Jun 3 Cairn’s Cream Corner C. Smith, I.McColl S 1981 Apr 19 Synagogue J.Hosie, S.Kennedy W 1981 Dec 18 Cascade G.E.Little W 1984 Jan 21 Gully 3 G.E.Little, A.Watson W 1985 Jan 20 The Shelf G.E.Little W 1985 Jan 27 The Riddle G.E.Little, C.Smith A significant development on a neglected crag W 1985 Jan 27 Imposter Crack G.E.Little, A.Reid, C.Smith W 1986 Dec 22 Boundary Ridge F. McKie W 1987 Jan 10 Crack Climb F.McKie, F.Thompson W 1987 Feb 14 Gully 7 F.McKie S 1987 Jun 20 Sesame Street F.McKie, F.Thomson S 1995 Apr 29 Fat Man’s Dilemma G.E.Little, D.Saddler S 1997 Sep 26 The Cave of Adullam A.Fraser, D.McGimpsey S 2005 Jul 10 Lower Right Flakes C.Moody, C.Grindley
North Goatfell S 1949 S 1949 S 1960 Aug W 1960s S 1968 May S 1968 May
Goatfell S 1955 Aug S 1957 S 1958 Jun S 1960 Jul 27 S 1960 Jul 27 S 1961 Sep 2 S 1963 Sep 13 S 1964 Apr 1 S 1964 Jun 20 S 1964 Jun 21 S 1964 Jun 21 S 1965 Aug S 1966 Sep 19 S 1967 Sep 23
Crack Climb Gully 3 Lower Left Chimney Pagoda Ridge Boundary Ridge
Left-Hand Route Right-Hand Route Diamond Slab Stacach Gully Whit Fur Whit Way
E.W.Rudge & party E.W.Rudge & party J.W.Simpson, W.Wallace, G.W.Hamilton W.Wallace W.Wallace, H.Stirling W.Wallace, H.Stirling
Evening Traverse Route 1 Zigzag Angel’s Pavement Fool’s Causeway Route 2 Blank Trundle Guttersnipe Dogleg Pussyfoot Girdle (South Slabs) Pochmahone Staravation
W.C.Harrison, J.M.Johnstone R.Sim, D.McKelvie D.McKelvie, R.Sim G.Kilgour, N.MacNiven G.Kilgour, N.MacNiven R.McCulloch, W.Wallace B.Kelly, A.McKeith W.Bailey, R.White G.Anderson, A.McKeith J.R.Brumfitt, A.McKeith D.Bathgate, J.Renny W.Wallace, H.Stirling M.Kelsey, A.McKeith R.N.Castro, S.M.Carruthers
S S S S S S S S S
1973 Mar 23 1974 Jul 1974 Jul 1981 Apr 19 1982 Jun 1985 Apr 20 1991 Jul 7 1995 Aug 20 1995 Aug 20
Airlift Introduction Encore The Perfect Fool Extraction Ribald Gwynserthni Blankist Long Hot Summer
B. Clarke, J.Mackenzie E.M.Wallace, W.Wallace E.M.Wallace, W.Wallace A.Nisbet, A.Robertson P.Clarke, K.Martin P.Brownsort, H.Irvine V.Ross, I.Roberts G.E.Little, K.Howett G.E.Little, K.Howett
Cir Mhòr S 1891 Summit Chimney W.W.Naismith S 1891 Sep Stoneshoot Ridge W.W.Naismith, G.Thomson S 1892 Aug Gully B2 J.Bristow, F.P.Evers S 1893 Sep Western Stoneshoot G.Thompson, W.W.Naismith S 1894 Aug Gully D (Trap Dyke Climb) W.W.Naismith, Dr.J.J.Douglas S 1894 Bow Window Cave W.W.Naismith, Dr.J.J.Douglas S 1894 Pinnacle Ridge J.MacLay, W.W.Naismith S 1894 Sep Bell’s Groove J.H.Bell, E.W.Green S 1895 Jul 7 B2C Rib Messrs. J.H.Bell, Boyd, Green, Napier Although not a great route, well ahead of its time for commitment and exposure. Variation A: D.Gilchrist, T.Wallace, Apr 1959 S 1896 MacLay’s Chimney J.MacLay, W.Douglas, W.W.Naismith S 1896 Jul Shelf Gully W.P.Haskett-Smith, W.W.Naismith S 1896 Jul Naismith/Haskett-Smith Route W.P.Hasket-Smith, W.W.Naismith S 1920 Garrick’s Route J.A.Garrick, D.Biggart S 1935 South Ridge Original J.A.Ramsay & party An adventurous route for its date. Traverse variation: G.H.Townend & party, 1944 S 1938 Apr Easter Route K.Barber, A.S.Pigott The hardest of the pre World War II routes S 1941 Sep South Ridge Direct J.F.Hamilton, D.Paterson A major line doing much to change opinion about the quality of Arran granite S 1942 Jun Gully B1 G.C.Curtis, H.K.Moneypenny S 1943 Jul 25 Caliban’s Creep G.C.Curtis, G.H.Townend S 1943 Jul 25 Prospero’s Peril G.H.Townend, G.C.Curtis S 1943 Jul 26 Prospero’s Prelude H.K.Moneypenny, G.C.Curtis S 1943 Sep 26 Labyrinth G.C.Curtis, H.K.Moneypenny Direct Finish: J.C.MacLaurin, J.S.Orr, May 1951 S 1944 Sep 3 Sou’wester Slabs G.H.Townend, G.C.Curtis, M.J.H.Hawkins, H.Hore A great find, paving the way for a splendid collection of routes on these marvellous slabs S 1944 Sep 17 Cubic Ridge G.H.Townend, F.Foxcroft S 1945 Aug 5 Fourth Wall G.H.Townend, H.K.Moneypenny Variation A: G.H.Townend, H.K.Moneypenny, Aug 1944. Variation B: R.A.Hockey, 6 Sep 1959 S 1946 Lower East Chimney G.H.Townend and party S 1946 Aug Sub Rosa Slabs J.R.Jenkins, G.H.Townend S 1946 May 12 Keyhole Crack E.B.Mendus, G.P.Pinder S 1946 Aug Old East J.R.Jenkins, G.H.Townend S 1947 Mar 27 Ruddy Knuckles P.W.Bedford, D.H.Haworth S 1947 Mar 27 Brodick Chimney P.W.Bedford, D.H.Haworth, P.Lockwood S 1957 May The Rosetta Stone R. Smith S 1957 Nov The Sickle J.H.Ashford, D.Burke A bold ascent. S 1958 West Gully W.Skidmore S 1958 Aug Minotaur D.McKelvie, R.Sim A bullish route! S 1958 Jun Easter Route; Double Cracks Start J.M.Johnstone, W.Wallace S 1958 Jun Pinnacle Gully Buttress J.M.Johnstone, W,Wallace S 1958 May First Pinnacle Chimney J.M.Johnstone, E.Wrench S 1959 Apr19 April Arete J.W.Simpson, W.Wallace S 1960 Aug 6 Hammer R.Sim, D.Cameron S 1960 Aug 6 Anvil D.McKelvie, R.Richardson Recess Start: W.Skidmore, J.Crawford, J.Madden; July 16 1964. Variation Finish: R.Richardson, J.Madden, 1965 S 1961 May Nor-Easter Slabs R.N.Campbell, N.MacNiven S 1961 May Rosa Pinnacle Girdle R.N.Campbell, N.MacNiven
A A A’ Chir Ridge Traverse Abby Above Above the Boulder Above the Howff Above the White Abraxas Abridgement Abseil Slab Absent Friend Absent Friends (Arran) Absent Friends (Canna) Abutment Access Route (Erraid, Mink Wall) Access Route (Erraid, Upper Tier) Access Route (Iona) Access Route (Mull) Accipiter Ace of Spades Achilles Acrobat Across the Lines Adder Adder Recess Adolescent Crack Aficionado After the Storm Afterthought Agent Orange Agincourt Agrimony Airlift Airy Mary Akira Alamo, The Alchemist Alderley Edge Aldosterone Groove Alice Nutter All Along the Watchtower All or Nubbin Allah Be Praised Allergic Reaction Alligator Rock Allival Slab Allivalhalla Almost a Stroll Altercation Alternative Medicine Amaranth Amber Ambergris Amoeba Amossyhing Amphibian An Easy Option An Tirisdeach Anarchist Protesters Ancient Mariner Ancients of Mumu, The Andrea Andy Pandy Anerr Corner Angel’s Pavement Angel’s Wings Angus the Bull
122 142 227 176 170 209 84 206 260 207 92 106 239 37 207 176 167 185 119 271 210 269 87 57 70 124 165 47 218 231 160 35 132 233 60 151 34 207 82 208 82 221 182 189 153 151 49 49 151 208 274 49 213 178 172 115 172 83 97 140 55 56 130 182 95 234 85 144
Animist Ankle Another Access Route Another Crack Another Day Another For Hector Ant Dancing Anticlimax Anticyclone Antonia Anvil Anvil Gully Apocrypha Approbation April Aphid April Arete Aqaba Aquamarine Aquila Arch Rib Archaeopteryx Archangel Route Arctic Way Ard ‘Arted Ard and Fast Ard Case Ard Cheese Ard Core Ard Day’s Night Ard King Glass Ard Lines Ard Luck Ard Rain Ard Rock Cafe Ard Start Ard to Believe Ard to Finish Ard to Handle Ard Up Ard Way Out Ard Way to Live Ard Way, The Ard-Vark Ardelve Ardgartan Ardish Ardly Ardly Worth the Effort Ardmair Ardrossan Are Friends Electric Are You a Man or a Danny Are You Lonesome Tonight? Arete (Iona) Arete (Muck) Arete Groove Arete, The (Mull, Broch) Arete, The (Mull, Scoor) Ariel’s Arete Aristocrat Armadillo Aromatherapy Arrowhead Arrows of Desire As Good as it Gets Ascent Route Asgard Ash Rib Ashes Aspen Grove
207 53 176 112 195 142 145 262 178 177 243 216 191 207 119 253 111 213 272 102 208 55 241 43 44 44 42 43 44 43 43 43 44 44 42 42 44 42 43 44 44 42 42 43 43 43 43 44 43 43 274 114 122 194 76 41 107 125 247 25 259 132 86 38 206 140 51 111 49 175
Asphodel Asteroid Groove Astute At One Atavist Left-Hand Atavist Right-Hand Athlete’s Foot Atlantic Breeze Atlantic Fury Atlantic Highway Atlantic Ridge Atlantic Slab Atomkraft Nein Danke Atonement Atreus Attilla the Nun Aurora Avalanche Avenue Avalanche Gully Avatar Groove Aversion Awesome
B B B2C Rib Baby Kissing Tour Bachelor Boy Bachelor’s Choice Back From China Back in the Rhythm Back Step Backbencher Bacon’s Head Bacteria Soup Baggie Leg Loops Baleen Balloonski Banana Arete Banana Buttress Bananarama Band of the Hand Bansko Babes Bantry Boat, The Bar Wars Barb Barbican, The Barn Crack Baron Samedi Barracuda Basking Shark Bass Bastard Son of Dean Friedman, The Bastille Bastille, The Battenburg Boy Battle of Evermore Battle of the Bulge Battle, The Beach Boys, The Beachcomber Slab Beeline Beetle Juice Bell’s Groove Berlin Wall Beside the Howff Better than a Poke in the Eye Bewitched Beyond
49 175 83 193 208 208 153 57 80 50 53 53 139 207 272 39 76 62 265 208 207 34 142 254 114 156 62 140 200 179 22 92 167 186 178 117 183 105 161 28 206 193 212 92 78 109 220 80 92 94
123 78 34 91 35 35 141 32 200 27 175 255 23 84 126 268 170
Beyond the Fringe Beyond the Pale Big Boots and Trainers Big Generator Big Slab, The Big Splash, The Big Sur Bijou Bilbo and Friends Bill’s Finish Billy Goat’s Groove Billy The Kid Biotite Man Bipartisan Jam Birch Bird Feathers Crumble Bird’s Nest Crack Birthday Chimney Birthday Girl Bishop’s Groove Bit on the Side, A Black and Brown Black and Tan Black Cave Pillar Black Chimney Black Corner and Slab Black Day Black Eye Rib Black Groove Black Hole Black Isle Black Kite Black Rod Black Run Black Slab Black Square Black Streak (Rum) Black Streak, The (Iona) Black Wall Blackback Crack Blackjack Blame the Bracken Blank Blank Expression Blankist Blazing Windows Blinder, The Blithe Spirit Block Crack Block, The Blocks, The Blockbuster Blocky Groove Blood Donor Blood Eagle Blood Money Blood Orange Blood, Soil and Straw Bloodstone Crack Bloody Bloody Crack Bloody Louse-Bird Blowin’ in the Wind Blown Gaskit Blubber Blue Blood Bluebell Blues Bluff Blundecral Blunt Rib
69 254 63 185 226 214 30 163 184 60 202 60 91 22 123 100 107 232 28 50 57 103 47 275 131 206 55 172 156 175 131 158 22 117 200 177 63 194 206 211 210 143 238 26 238 136 221 164 109 143 141 182 23 194 191 111 167 100 56 111 26 136 28 157 178 25 126 248 223 200
Bob Bob Dylan’s Dream Bobby Dazzler Bodyswerve Bog Drinkers Bogle Bold as Brass Bomber Crack Bones, Chalk and Powder Bonus Bonus, The (Muck) Bonxie Borg Cube Botany Crack Bothan nam Fear Botterill’s Crack Bottlenose Boulder Problem, The Boulder Wall Boundary Ridge Bourgeoisie Bovine Buttress Bow Window Cave Box Boxed Boxing Hare Boys will be Boys Brachistochrone Bracken Spraying Braille Bramble Corner Bramble Crack Branch Line Brand New Breach the Defences Breaker Breakfast too Far, A Breaking the Waves Breenge Breeze Breezer Brendan’s Journey Brickie’s Cleft Bridge Too Far, A Bridge to Iona Brigand, The Bright and Breezy Brine Shrine, The Broad Buttress Brobdingnag Brodick Chimney Brown Corner Brown Crab Brown Slab Brown Trousers Bruising Brush Off Brutal Buckets Buckets in Spades Buckler Bulge Groove Bulgie Wall Bulging Bull Run Bunny San Bunty’s Ducks Buoy Rib Burning Down the Howff Burns Unit
29 28 165 87 151 224 92 173 100 262 85 128 89 56 97 69 150 117 208 228 24 94 255 90 146 93 88 224 111 84 108 143 93 179 35 32 87 205 56 47 94 151 129 26 187 259 165 171 45 223 251 103 182 103 53 140 193 173 187 177 37 102 107 103 144 156 140 107 117 117
Burnside Burnt Umber Butterfly Recess Butterflyz Buttongrass Crack Buttress 7-8 Bypass Route
C Cabin Fever Cairn’s Cream Corner Calder Chimney Calf Rib Caliban’s Creep California Girls Callum’s Callisthenics Calluna Cornice Calm Fish Corner Cam City Cam-alot Cambridge Arete Camilla Campbell Campion Slab Candle, The Canna Corner Canna Go First Canna Jammer Cannon, The Caorach Corner Car Keys Cara Corner Carachameleon Caracontortion Carapace Caraway Carlin’s Rib Caroline Carrot Casa de mi Padre Cascade Cascade Karen Casting Vote Castle Corner Catalyst, The Catch a Wave Catch the Pigeon Caterpillar Cathedral Catriona Cats Causeway Caught Short Cave Dweller Cave Monster, The Cave of Adullam, The Cave Painting Cellulitis Celtic Storm Centipede Centipede Slab Central (Mull, Calgary) Central (Mull, Glen Mhòr) Central Groove (Canna) Central Grooves (Arran) Central Holly Central Rib (Mull) Central Rib (Rum) Central Route Central Scoop Cetorhinus Delight
117 212 108 107 101 231 256 123 232 51 114 239 32 92 136 122 87 25 49 158 106 62 52 38 41 30 276 200 107 215 215 215 215 215 267 176 112 148 227 113 22 78 78 32 97 139 36 168 181 33 176 134 229 147 153 112 118 101 106 121 40 263 117 109 55 109 103 96
Pope on a Rope Portcullis Postal Vote Pothole Slab Power Outage Power to All Our Friends Predator Pressing On Pretty Choughed Pretty in Pink Prickly Slab Primrose Crack Prince of Thieves Prince of Tides Principle of Moments Priory Slab Privileged Few, The Prodigy Professor Falls Profit and Lossit Promise, The Prospero’s Peril Prospero’s Prelude Psycho Prachanda Path, The Ptarmigan Crack Puffball Pull Gently Pulpit Groove Punk Flamingoes Puppy Love Purphura Purple Haze Pushing Up the Camelot Pussyfoot Pyramid Q Quack Quarantine Quark Jive Quartz Crack, The Quartz Rib Quartz Seam Traverse Quartz Vein Crack Quartzyness Que tal Sloppy? Quest Question Time Quick off the Block Quiet Shag, A R Race the Midges Radioactive Rose Rain Stops Play Rainbow Rib Rake Direct, The Rally Carnage Rally Fever Rambling Wall Ramp (Iona) Ramp (Mull) Ramp Age Ramp Art (Canna) Ramp Art (Muck) Rampant Razorbill Rampart, The Rangail Route Raspberry Lips
194 265 22 254 268 155 80 28 132 212 117 115 171 212 213 201 25 193 113 211 79 251 251 68 110 56 141 129 191 138 84 70 29 142 238 90 195 181 274 194 131 208 130 193 148 142 23 24 132 87 139 84 164 225 140 142 160 195 159 42 42 78 204 267 45 179
Raynauds Rays Reality Dysfunction, The Recess Groove Recess Wall Red Red Adair Red Alert Red Anvil Red Arete Red Bole Red Brick Red Campion Red Carpet Red Coats Red Cross Red Drupelets Red Fox Red Kite Red Left Red Letter Day Red Mite Red Mullet Red Oak Red October Red Peril, The Red Revolution Red Right Red Run Red Scare, The Red Shafted Flicker Red Square Regency Cleft Reign of Terror Relish Remember, Remember Renroc Step Repeater Replica Corner Rescue Me Restricted Access Return Call Rhino Rhomboid Ria Rib Ribald Ribbed Rich Pickings Riddle, The Rift, The Right Right Buttock Right Corner (Coll) Right Corner (Rum) Right Corner Chimney Right Crack (Erraid) Right Crack (Mull) Right Edge, The Right Face Right Fork/Right Branch Right Groove Right Hand Route Right Holly Right Niche Right On Right Ramp Right Rib Right Route Right Slab
153 178 126 40 206 176 110 109 180 156 109 48 110 109 158 110 114 158 158 117 109 102 110 109 83 109 110 117 117 110 125 109 134 110 48 37 95 274 21 102 110 55 261 89 162 107 235 187 79 227 265 108 85 91 62 62 173 121 209 101 256 40 171 117 107 218 195 91 151 170
Right Twin Right Wall Right-Central Gully Right-Hand Buttress Direct Right-Hand Chimney Right-hand Crack Right-Hand Route Ring of Bright Water Riona Ripe Mangoes Ripple Ritchie’s Corner Rivers of Blood RLS Roadrunner Robster Lobster Rock Around the Block Rocker Cover Rod, Todd, This Is God Rolling Pin Route Roofus Room Service Root Rosary Rosa Luxemburg Rose Rib Rose Root Slab and Crack Rose Street Riots Rosetta Stone, The Ross’s Rib Rotten Pineapple Rouma Route Round House, The Route 1 (Arran, Goatfell) Route 1 (Arran, Mullach Buidhe) Route 1 (Coll) Route 1 (Mull) Route 2 (Arran) Route 2 (Coll) Route 367936 Route Five Route Four Route One Rowan Rowan Crack Royal Arches Royal Assent Rozzer, The Rubha Rib Ruby Tuesday Ruddy Knuckles Ruling Class, The Rum Rum and Pineapple Rum Do Rum Doodle Rummage Rumpy Pumpy Run Run Rudolph Runaround Runner Bean Runout Rushing for the Ferry Russell’s Ghyll Russian Bustards Russian Staircase Rust Rust Bucket Ryan’s Way
143 147 55 52 60 187 232 172 59 179 131 123 111 168 138 183 141 157 188 53 183 111 121 39 110 200 45 140 251 72 179 51 167 237 273 95 103 273 95 201 186 186 122 161 120 36 22 63 215 110 251 25 64 52 94 57 99 96 139 131 140 126 130 94 137 116 212 157 91
S Sacrum Crack Sair Finger, The Salad Days Sally Salvation Sash Vert Satisfaction Sawfish Crack Sc’Ard Scaber Scarlet O’Hara Scarlet Pimpernel Scarlet Thread Schist Buttress School’s Out Scone Maker Scoop, The Scorchio Scorpion (Canna) Scorpion (Coll) Scrambled Sea Eagle Egg Scrambling Mink Screaming Nun Screech-Owl Scrimshaw Scripture Sea Grit Crack Sea Lament Sea Pink Seal Clubbing Seal Show Seal Song (Canna) Seal Song (Erraid) Sealed Seawolf Second Second Groove Second Innings Crack Secret Crack See Through Corner See You in Hell Soldier Boy Sense of Porpoise Sentenced Sentinel Sentinel Left-Hand, The Sentinel Right-Hand, The Sentry’s Sortie Seoras Sesame Street Seth Seven Pounds of Brambles Seven Routes Seven Seas Shades of Abraxus Shadowlands Shadows, The Shag It Shag Vision Shaky Ridge Shallow Water Solo Shark Shattered Arete Shattered Dreams Shearwater Arete Shearwater Chimney Shearwater Rib Sheerwater Connection Shelf Gully Shelf Route (Iona)
212 176 48 116 39 194 52 128 42 121 110 24 156 271 158 104 42 148 27 92 138 112 39 136 178 191 156 40 166 40 129 40 165 40 83 101 41 84 123 102 131 74 76 170 36 36 60 61 229 155 111 111 205 35 57 155 154 133 131 102 105 83 86 62 62 53 86 255 194
Shelf Route (Mull, Calgary) Shelf Route (Mull, Glen Mhòr) Shelf, The (Arran) Shelf, The (Iona) Shepherd’s Delight Shepherd’s Warning Sheryl Crow Shield Bus Shield, The Shin Scraper Shipwreck Shire, The Shock Treatment Short and Sharp Short Circuit Short Haul Short Route Shortbread or Crackers? Shorties Crack Shorty (Erraid) Shorty (Mull) Shot, The Shoulder Wrencher Show Some Emotion Shower Ridge Showers Sickle, The Side Splitter Side Surf Siege Tactics Silo Silver Button, The Simon’s Slip Simple Pleasures Simply Red Sister Moonshine Skerryvore Skid Marks Skinhead Skrymir Skydiver Slab and Arete Slab and Flake Route Slab and Groove Slab and Tickle Slab Direct Slab of Tranquility Slainte Bha Slant Slanting Cracks Slanting Slab Slapstick Wall Slatehead Arete Slating Chimney Sleep Deprivation Sleeper, The Sleeping Crack, The Sleepy Slept in a Bog Slim Groove Slim Line Special Slip on Through Slip Shod Slipped On Me Feldspar Slipway Sloeworm Sloping Ledge Slot, The Slow Lane Slugs
106 120 227 194 111 111 138 165 37 104 159 184 274 86 275 28 193 96 159 167 103 94 104 122 190 143 243 33 29 35 254 168 79 209 110 118 168 92 193 51 249 57 230 59 182 50 47 154 226 164 103 265 205 108 115 131 250 124 140 206 37 33 89 165 261 111 60 107 182 122
Small Boy Waiting Small Buttress Small Tortoiseshell Smaug Smaull is Beautiful Smelly Crack Smelly Mussels Smiley Crack Smoke Yourself Thin Smoking the Toad Smolt Snakebite Snakes and Ladders Snip-Snap Snipe on a Grand Piano Snipe Shadow Snorting Quack Snow Covered Eyes Snow Plough Soa Arete Soa Corner Soaking Staffa Socket Slabs Socks Sodomy Solar Collector Solar Power Solar Temple Solpadeine Some Like it Hot Somme, The Sons and Daughters Sons of the Hounds Come Here and Get Flesh Sophie Sorcery Sou’wester Slabs South Corner South Crack (Iona) South Crack (Rum) South Ridge (Islay) South Ridge Direct South Ridge Original South Sou’wester Slabs Southern Comfort Southpaw Space Traveller Spanish Gold Spare Rib Sparkler Spear, The Spelunca Sperm Sphere Spider and I Spidery Cracks Spiral Arete Spiral Staircase Spirits Colliding Splash Splatter Spleenwort groove Splinter Splinter Arete Splinter Corner Splinter Rib Splitting Hares Spot the Ball Spug Korma Squall Wall
211 115 108 184 209 163 167 165 191 193 29 124 225 184 71 86 138 154 117 183 183 140 263 132 64 175 151 190 221 148 34 210
142 161 82 241 60 185 61 203 244 246 241 25 41 175 79 36 130 38 276 178 90 141 177 171 36 270 142 142 132 153 70 153 153 128 29 138 199
Square Bashed Crack Squawk SS Cracks St John’s St Margaret’s St Mary’s St Palladius St Vitus Stabbed in the Rib Stacach Gully Stack Arete Stack Crack Stacked Block Crack Stacked Block Route Staircase (Eigg) Staircase (Mull) Stairway to Heaven (Mull) Stairway to Heaven (Iona) Stand Clear Star Trek Staravation Starboard Tack, Port Tack Starfish Leg Staring at the Sun Starter Starting Again! Stealth Steep and Windy Steepening, The Stepping Out Steve Still Chattering Still Cruisin’ Still Snow Sting, The Stitch Gully Stoic Stonecrop Groove Stoneshoot Ridge Storm, The Stormy Wednesday Straight Jacket Strand, The Stranded Stranded Arete Stranger than Fiction Strawberry Pig Streaked Slab Striding Edge String Theory Structural Irony Stuck in a Rut Student Waster Stukie Pate Sub Rosa Gully Slabs Sub Rosa Slabs Submerged Crack Succulent Crack Summer Holiday Summer Holiday Climb Summit Chimney Summit Gully Summit Ridge Sun Spots Sun Trap Sunny Side Sunny Side Crack Sunny Side Up Sunnyside Up Sunset Rib
85 122 21 188 188 188 188 188 85 232 40 39 143 143 72 107 145 187 142 119 235 181 101 198 163 116 168 103 140 68 150 123 32 139 70 273 270 168 255 162 85 141 216 201 130 276 179 187 51 98 214 182 131 138 251 248 33 92 156 155 255 226 258 177 177 48 164 71 148 158
Sunshine Corner Sunshine Edge Sunshine Ridge Sunshine Slab Sunshine Stroll Suntrap Super Crack Super-sub Surf’s Up Surfin Santa Susan Suzy and the Wonder Boy Swallowtail Swarm, The Sword of Theseus, The Sword, The Sylvester Synagogue
T Tabby’s Smile Take a Flakey Take me to the River Taking the Mickey Taking the Minke Tales of the Unexpected Tan Hogh Tappet Tarka Tarmac Frogs Tarsuinn No.1 Chimney Tarsuinn No.2 Chimney Tarzan Te To Tum TEB Tellingbone Ten Minute Groove Terminal Tern Tetragonal That Stinks That’s Fast for a Snail That’s Horrible Therapy Thick Head Thin Lizzie Thin Red Line, The Third Third Choice Thirty One Lesbians Thomas Traverse Thorns Thrashing About Three Blocks Three Eggs Thrift Thrift is a Virtue Through the Barricades Throw it Off Thrutchless Chimneys Thumbs Thyme Watch Tidal Exit Cracks Tidemark Tight Squeeze Tinkle Tippidy Doodah To Go Boldly Toad Crack Toad Hole
251 220 120 212 182 87 26 26 32 131 161 154 108 70 250 38 126 230 62 182 138 23 74 68 91 157 172 141 226 226 170 99 136 275 84 142 131 89 132 134 140 134 129 161 34 101 118 114 215 126 141 106 120 97 198 69 108 176 48 84 63 261 221 173 125 33 176 176
Toberoran Toffs on the Rocks Token Gesture Tom Too Old to be Bold Tootie Flootie Top Rib Top Slab Topic Topographic Ocean Topless Topping up your Tan Tornado Torremolinos Total Carnage Total Recoll Totally Wired Touchy Feally Tour Start Tower Crack (Mull, Dùnan Mòr) Tower Crack (Erraid) Traipse Trap Chimney Trapezium Tread Lightly Treasure Chest Treasure Trove Corner Trident (Coll) Trident (Muck) Trident Central Trident Left-Hand Trident Right-Hand Trigonal 32 Trinity Tripped On Me Xenolith Trod On Me Knob Troglodyte (Mull, Scoor) Troglodyte (Erraid) Trojan Wars Troll Corner Trophy Crack Trouble With Lichen, The Troy True Colours True Grit Trundle (Arran) Trundle (Rum) Trying Too Ard Tube, The Turdus Turning the Other Cheek Turnstone Turret, The Twarf’s Nightmare Tweekie Pie Twin Cracks (Mull, Ardtun) Twin Cracks (Mull, Dùn Mòr) Twin Cracks (Erraid) Twin Otters Twin Rocks Twin Track Two Curlews in a Bog Two Peas in a Pod Two Towers, The Tyke Arete Tyke’s Lead Tystie U Ulysses
199 151 261 71 87 182 188 188 123 205 187 178 163 148 57 88 121 95 187 143 175 99 52 167 159 214 79 94 82 95 95 95 89 188 165 165 125 176 35 50 79 94 35 23 249 236 51 44 30 151 203 129 78 121 126 140 109 164 104 123 173 140 140 35 51 167 128 269
Un Petite Voyage Un Peu Salle Uncle Fester Uncle Joe Underneath the Arches Undertaker’s Gone Bananas, The Unforgiven Unidentified Screamers Unlucky for Some Unoriginal Route Unpleasant Unsynchronized Transmission Unused Up and Left Up and Right Upwardly Mobile Uragaig Wall Urchin Crack V V for Victory V Groove (Canna) V Groove, The (Muck) V Gully (Arran) V Gully (Erraid) Vagabond, The Valhalla Vanished Vanishing Point (Arran) Vanishing Point (Rum) Vapourer Vatican City Veering Westerly Venus Venus in Flares Verdant Gully Vermelho Quente Vertige Vivienne Very Well Via Neeza Vicious Vicious Streak, A Violet Viva Las Vegas Voodoo Chile Vow of Silence Voyager
W Waco Waggy Waggy’s Rib Wait Till 7:30 Waiting for God Walkabout Walkies Wall Walking on Sunshine Wall Wall End Gully Wallcreeper Walls Without Balls Wander Wandering Botanist, The Wandering Lumberjack, The Warp Drive Warp Speed Warsaw Pact Washington Column Water Water Pistol
257 131 204 110 64 126 87 123 163 140 142 157 179 209 209 23 199 130 85 21 85 265 170 168 51 180 243 57 108 194 162 175 123 272 177 113 62 103 173 194 118 122 220 39 36 190 115 186 145 199 140 84 198 109 83 125 168 50 56 173 274 174 110 36 122 103
Waverley, The Waverly (Muck) Waves and White Water Wavey Crack Wavy Groove Waxcap Way of the Wind Way too Ard Way too Many Spiders Wayward Seaman, The We Are The Campions We Did We Like Sheep Weasels Ripped my Tips Webs Wee Buttress Wee Doris Wee Rib Wee Solo Weeping Corner Welcome to Ard Times Wellies Again Welly Good Route Welly Route Welly Stealing Sgiathanchs West Face West Flank Route West Gully West Point West Side Story Western Isles Buttress Western Ridge Western Stoneshoot Wet Nappy Wet One When I’m Bigger When the Going Gets Turf Where Eagles Dare Where’s me Paddle Where’s Your Tan, Karen? Which One’s Pink? Whip, The Whipped Up Whit Fur Whit Wey White Flake Groove White Goose, The White Heather Club White Horses White Magic Groove White Patch White Pointer White Shite White Spiral White Stuff White Witch, The Whited Crack, The Wicker Man, The Wide And Midgie Wide Corner Wide Crack, The Wide Thing Wild Swans Wild Thing Will I Won’t I Wind Generator (Arran) Wind Generator (Mull) Wind Tunnel Windjammer Wing and a Prayer, A
177 78 126 131 87 150 212 43 96 226 103 121 134 132 124 101 28 103 132 170 43 150 182 188 114 156 243 257 241 210 45 50 256 85 103 28 253 129 201 178 166 21 21 232 232 150 143 140 163 268 174 80 133 123 140 268 62 87 142 141 115 121 131 22 159 274 151 163 142 190
Wipe Out Wisdom Wish in Vain Witch’s Step Witches Slide Witness, The Woden’s Crack Woden’s Walk Woolpack Woopsie Wall Working Too Ard Wouldn’t it be Nice Wrecked Wrecker, The Wriggly Chimney Writing on the Wall Wrong Trousers, The Wull’s Exam Fiasco
X X Xenolith Xenophobe XX XXX XY
Y Yabadabadoo Yan’s Route Yangsee Bungle Fuffle Yellow Fever Yellow Ochre Yellow Peril Yellow Snail Yellow Submarine Yellow Wall, Route 1 Yellow Wall, Route 2 Yellow Wall, Route 3 Yellowstone Chimney Yet Anerr Corner Yo Hogh Your Paps are Cloudy Z Ziggurat Zigzag (Arran) Zigzag (Canna) Zigzag (Eigg) Zigzag (Rum) Zigzag Route Zipper Di Do Da
30 122 213 267 82 45 60 60 226 84 44 32 176 167 86 21 29 111 93 182 182 93 93 93 189 184 186 80 213 80 114 94 78 78 78 60 95 91 115 258 233 27 74 50 56 112
SCOTTISH MOUNTAINEERING CLUB SCOTTISH MOUNTAINEERING TRUST
Prices were correct at time of publication, but are subject to change
HILLWALKERS’ GUIDES The Munros The Corbetts and Other Scottish Hills North-West Highlands Islands of Scotland Including Skye The Cairngorms Central Highlands Southern Highlands SCRAMBLERS’ GUIDES Skye Scrambles Highland Scrambles North
CLIMBERS’ GUIDES Northern Highlands North Northern Highlands Central Northern Highlands South Skye The Cuillin Skye Sea-cliffs & Outcrops The Cairngorms Ben Nevis Glen Coe Highland Outcrops North-East Outcrops Lowland Outcrops Scottish Winter Climbs Scottish Rock Climbs Scottish Sport Climbs
OTHER PUBLICATIONS Ben Nevis – Britain’s Highest Mountain The Cairngorms – 100 Years of Mountaineering Rising to the Challenge – 100 Years of the LSCC Hostile Habitats – Scotland’s Mountain Environment Munro’s Tables A Chance in a Million? Avalanches in Scotland Scottish Hill Tracks Scottish Hill Names Visit our website for more details and to purchase online: www.smc.org.uk Distributed by: Cordee Ltd (t) 01455611185 (w) www.cordee.co.uk
£23.00 £23.00 £22.00 £20.00 £18.00 £18.00 £17.00 £25.00 £19.00 £22.00 £25.00 £25.00 £25.00 £25.00 £25.00 £22.00 £22.00 £16.00 £18.00 £22.00 £25.00 £25.00 £28.00 £27.50 £27.50 £24.00 £17.00 £16.00 £15.00 £18.00 £16.00
4 5 Kilchoan Corran Ferry Tobermoray
A83 A82 M8
Claonaig Lochranza Port Ellen
18 Ayr Cambeltown
Scottish Mountaineering Trust
Since 1990, the Trust has granted more than £800,000 for causes such as: • • • • • • • •
Renovation of Club Huts Footpath construction and maintenance Land purchase, such as John Muir Trust acquisitions Supporting visually impaired people to attend Glenmore Lodge courses Mountain Rescue Supporting young people to go on expeditions Supporting access Supporting environmental conservation
Our funds come from Trust publications, such as Scottish Mountaineering Club guidebooks, as well as donations and bequests from the public. If you would like to donate to the Trust, or to see how the trust could help you or your organisation, please go to www.smc.org.uk/trust/
The area covered by this guide stretches from Canna in the north where climbing developed during the 2000s, to Arran in the south where climbing started in the 1800s. Rum and Eigg are well established as climbing venues, but Canna, Muck, Coll, Tiree, Islay, Jura and Cara appear in a guidebook for the first time. More than 2500 routes are supplemented by 20 maps, 95 diagrams and 80 action photographs
Top left: South Ridge Direct, VS, Cir Mhòr, Arran, climber Mo Walker (photo Christine Crawford). Top right: Archaeopterzx, E1, Shelf Wall, Islay, climber Graham Little (photo Christina Woodrow). Below: The Promise, S, Yellow Walls Area, Muck, climber Billy Hood (photo Colin Moody)
INNER HEBRIDES & ARRAN
All profits from the sale of this guidebook go to fund the Scottish Mountaineering Trust. All grants given by the Trust benefit mountains or the people who enjoy them.
INNER HEBRIDES & ARRAN
CANNA, RUM, EIGG & MUCK 1. 2. 3. 4.
Canna Rum Eigg Muck
COLL & TIREE 5. Coll 6. Tiree
MULL & IONA
7. North-West Mull & Ulva 8. Central Mull 9. South Mull 10. Granite Crags 11. Iona
98 112 116 145 183
12. Colonsay 13. Oronsay 14. The Garvellachs
196 201 201
15. Islay 16. Jura 17. Cara
202 214 215
COLONSAY, ORONSAY & THE GARVELLACHS ISLAY, JURA & CARA ARRAN
SCOTTISH MOUNTAINEERING CLUB CLIMBERS’ GUIDE
20 45 65 76
Climbing on the beautiful and remote-feeling islands of Arran and the Inner Hebrides is now more accessible than ever with this guide to bot...
Published on Jan 6, 2014
Climbing on the beautiful and remote-feeling islands of Arran and the Inner Hebrides is now more accessible than ever with this guide to bot...