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stealing beauty Seasoned pros show you three ways to streamline your routine— each for under $100

on model: Top, clu

By Ning Chao Photographed by Don Flood

HAIR QUALITY For gentle, color-safe haircare that won’t break the bank, stylist Shin An from the Paul Labrecque Salon in New York City suggests going both high-tech and green. “You’re going to get more for your money at healthfood stores. Their products have fewer chemicals and protect hair from damage.” Meanwhile, state-of-the-art dryers and brushes that won’t harm hair can now be found at great prices.

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November 2008 / marie claire 153


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Beauty

on a budget

HAIR QUALITY by hairstylist Shin An

Grand total: $99.57 $6.45 1 Jason Volumizing Mousse: “I like this foam better than volumizing sprays as it doesn’t make hair sticky or crunchy. It gives good body and texture—and fights frizz in humid weather.” $12 2 Nexxus Phyto Organics Transfigure Molding Paste: “Everyone can benefit from a finishing cream, and this one is lighter than most and never feels greasy. Because it’s waterbased, it washes out easily.” $32 3 Paul Labrecque Daily Condition: “I call this the silk route for hair. Use it every day as a conditioner or for 10 minutes as a mask.”

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$12.99 4 Conair Eco-Friendly Boar and Nylon Round Brush: “Even coarse, curly hair gets really straight with this brush. The boar bristles smooth out the cuticles, and the short ones grip the tiniest hairs for maximum shine.”

$6.14 6 Kiss My Face Whenever Shampoo: “The lavender and aloe in this are like a facial for your scalp, while the sage and nettle stimulate hair growth. Since it’s sulfatefree, it won’t strip color.”

Cute Tips (That Save Cash) The Generic Route No harm in giving the drugstore brand a go. Check the ingredients list and compare with your fave products. Save Online Surf for deals like zero tax and free shipping while saving time and mileage. Oil Check For a cheap home-remedy hair and skin moisturizer, our experts recommend olive oil. But apply sparingly—and skip the extra-virgin—so you don’t smell like a salad.

154 marie claire / November 2008

$6.45 $12.00 $32.00 $12.99 $29.99 + $6.14 $99.57

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$29.99 5 Belson Pro Ultra Lightweight Tourmaline Ionic Turbo Dryer: “Ionic dryers dry hair faster and smoother. Because this one’s 1875 watts, you’re going to get the heat you need without having to blast your hair for long. Belson also gives you the best of both— a nozzle if you want to go straight and a diffuser to bring out your waves.”

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SKINVESTMENTS by celeb facialist Kate Somerville

Grand total: $99.21 $5.87 1 Alba Deep Sea Facial Mask: “Natural algae and kelp extracts smooth the skin; the kaolin clay draws out impurities without overdrying.” $4.25 2 Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser: “This cleanses and moisturizes at the same time. It’s great for any skin type, including really sensitive.” $55 3 Kate Somerville Goat Milk Cream: “The goat milk has nourishing proteins and amino acids to balance and hydrate the skin, while the lactose is a natural, gentle enzyme exfoliant.”

$15 4 Mustela Sun Lotion SPF 50: “I love this mineral sunscreen; it contains zinc, which calms and reduces inflammation.” $15 5 Boots Eye and Lip Correction Serum: “The reason we develop so many lines around the eyes and lips is that we don’t have oil glands in those places. It’s essential to keep those areas moisturized.” $4.09 6 Curél Original Formula Lotion: “I apply Curél immediately after I get out of the tub; it seems to lock in the moisture and leaves my skin smooth and hydrated.”

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SKINVESTMENTS Hollywood facialist Kate Somerville puts her money where her moisturizer is: “It’s a given that advanced ingredients and technologies are going to be expensive, but in a face cream, it’s worth it. Unlike cleansers, you don’t rinse your moisturizer down the drain.” Somerville recommends rounding out your regimen with multitasking serums and drugstore staples to stay within the budget.

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$5.87 $4.25 $55.00 $15.00 $15.00 + $4.09 $99.21

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For information on where to buy, see Shopping Directory.

month 2008 / marie claire

155


«

Beauty

on a budget

HAIR QUALITY by hairstylist Shin An

Grand total: $99.57 $6.45 1 Jason Volumizing Mousse: “I like this foam better than volumizing sprays as it doesn’t make hair sticky or crunchy. It gives good body and texture—and fights frizz in humid weather.” $12 2 Nexxus Phyto Organics Transfigure Molding Paste: “Everyone can benefit from a finishing cream, and this one is lighter than most and never feels greasy. Because it’s waterbased, it washes out easily.” $32 3 Paul Labrecque Daily Condition: “I call this the silk route for hair. Use it every day as a conditioner or for 10 minutes as a mask.”

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$12.99 4 Conair Eco-Friendly Boar and Nylon Round Brush: “Even coarse, curly hair gets really straight with this brush. The boar bristles smooth out the cuticles, and the short ones grip the tiniest hairs for maximum shine.”

$6.14 6 Kiss My Face Whenever Shampoo: “The lavender and aloe in this are like a facial for your scalp, while the sage and nettle stimulate hair growth. Since it’s sulfatefree, it won’t strip color.”

Cute Tips (That Save Cash) The Generic Route No harm in giving the drugstore brand a go. Check the ingredients list and compare with your fave products. Save Online Surf for deals like zero tax and free shipping while saving time and mileage. Oil Check For a cheap home-remedy hair and skin moisturizer, our experts recommend olive oil. But apply sparingly—and skip the extra-virgin—so you don’t smell like a salad.

154 marie claire / November 2008

$6.45 $12.00 $32.00 $12.99 $29.99 + $6.14 $99.57

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$29.99 5 Belson Pro Ultra Lightweight Tourmaline Ionic Turbo Dryer: “Ionic dryers dry hair faster and smoother. Because this one’s 1875 watts, you’re going to get the heat you need without having to blast your hair for long. Belson also gives you the best of both— a nozzle if you want to go straight and a diffuser to bring out your waves.”

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SKINVESTMENTS by celeb facialist Kate Somerville

Grand total: $99.21 $5.87 1 Alba Deep Sea Facial Mask: “Natural algae and kelp extracts smooth the skin; the kaolin clay draws out impurities without overdrying.” $4.25 2 Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser: “This cleanses and moisturizes at the same time. It’s great for any skin type, including really sensitive.” $55 3 Kate Somerville Goat Milk Cream: “The goat milk has nourishing proteins and amino acids to balance and hydrate the skin, while the lactose is a natural, gentle enzyme exfoliant.”

$15 4 Mustela Sun Lotion SPF 50: “I love this mineral sunscreen; it contains zinc, which calms and reduces inflammation.” $15 5 Boots Eye and Lip Correction Serum: “The reason we develop so many lines around the eyes and lips is that we don’t have oil glands in those places. It’s essential to keep those areas moisturized.” $4.09 6 Curél Original Formula Lotion: “I apply Curél immediately after I get out of the tub; it seems to lock in the moisture and leaves my skin smooth and hydrated.”

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SKINVESTMENTS Hollywood facialist Kate Somerville puts her money where her moisturizer is: “It’s a given that advanced ingredients and technologies are going to be expensive, but in a face cream, it’s worth it. Unlike cleansers, you don’t rinse your moisturizer down the drain.” Somerville recommends rounding out your regimen with multitasking serums and drugstore staples to stay within the budget.

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$5.87 $4.25 $55.00 $15.00 $15.00 + $4.09 $99.21

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For information on where to buy, see Shopping Directory.

month 2008 / marie claire

155


Beauty

on a budget

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MAKEUP MUSTS Mixing high- and low-price cosmetics is part of Tina Turnbow’s job as in-house makeup artist for budgetfriendly beauty.com and drugstore.com. Her motto: Invest in foundation and concealer. “Finding your ideal shade is priceless. Your skin is the canvas, so if it’s flawless, the rest of your makeup has a head start.” Turnbow is forever foraging at pharmacies for brands she’s never heard of.

hair: giannandrea for l’oreal professionnel texture expert expansion. makeup: tina turnbow for beauty.com. manicure: elisa ferri at see management. still lifes: jeffrey westbrook/studio d. opposite page, on model: top, richard chai

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$4.99 $10.95 $2.99 $22.00 $3.50 $9.00 $3.75 $3.49 $2.50 $22.00 $4.31 $3.50 + $6.99 $99.97

For information on where to buy, see Shopping Directory.

MAKEUP MUSTS by makeup artist Tina Turnbow

Grand total: $99.97 $4.99 1 Burt’s Bees Lip Shimmer in Merlot: “If you want a stain that enhances your natural lip color, use this instead of lipstick.” $10.95 2 L’Oréal Paris True Match Blush in Innocent Flush: “As with any drugstore brand, it’s advisable to choose peachy neutrals, which flatter most complexions. This pigment is so light, it’s virtually mistake-proof.” $2.99 3 Maybelline Eyeshadow in Earthly Taupe: “Matte taupe is a great everyday neutral that’s more versatile than a shimmer. Mix with other colors if you want to tone them down.” $22 4 Cargo OneBase Concealer + Foundation: “Dab a few dots of this very creamy For information on where to buy, see Shopping Directory.

concealer on the T-zone and blend outward, then apply a little extra wherever you need more coverage. The applicator is exceptionally efficient.” $3.50 5 Milani Crystal Gloss for Lips in Secret: “I like this milky shade for a shiny, nude lip. To create a pouty mouth, use a little in the center of your lower lip.” $9 6 Alison Raffaele OilBlotting Tissues: “Adding more powder throughout the day or night makes your face masklike. This fine, pliable paper will remove excess oil but won’t smear your makeup.” $3.75 7 Prestige Lipliner in Shimmer: “This enhances your

lip contour no matter what shade you’re wearing. The key is to blend it properly so you never see the line.” $3.49 8 Rimmel London Soft Kohl Kajal Eye Pencil in Sable Brown: “A brown pencil is dark enough to give you definition, but it won’t make eyes look smaller the way black can. This one’s soft enough to use on the inside rim of the eye.” $2.50 9 Desert Essence Lip Rescue: “This is neither too shiny nor waxy—perfect when mixed with your lip pencil for a natural day look.” $22 10 Sue Devitt Eye Intensifier Pencil in Victoria Falls: “This inky blue flatters all eye colors

An MC exclusive! Through the end of November, MC readers will save 25 percent and get free shipping on orders over $75 at cosmeticmarket.com. Just type in the discount code “marieclaire” at checkout.

and brightens the whites. Use it as a pencil, or smudge it with the sponge tip for a dramatic look.” $4.31 11 CoverGirl Remarkable Mascara in Very Black: “A deep, rich black—and the brush separates the lashes well. It’s smudge-proof but easy to remove. I also use it on the bottom lashes for evenings.” $3.50 12 Milani Crystal Gloss for Lips in Hush-Hush: “I like that this dark gloss has neither glitter nor shimmer.” $6.99 13 Revlon ColorStay Eyeshadow in Sultry Smoke: “The perfect palette for a smoky eye: There’s gray, navy, black, and a slightly lavender shimmer that’s great for highlighting.” November 2008 / marie claire 157


Beauty

on a budget

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MAKEUP MUSTS Mixing high- and low-price cosmetics is part of Tina Turnbow’s job as in-house makeup artist for budgetfriendly beauty.com and drugstore.com. Her motto: Invest in foundation and concealer. “Finding your ideal shade is priceless. Your skin is the canvas, so if it’s flawless, the rest of your makeup has a head start.” Turnbow is forever foraging at pharmacies for brands she’s never heard of.

hair: giannandrea for l’oreal professionnel texture expert expansion. makeup: tina turnbow for beauty.com. manicure: elisa ferri at see management. still lifes: jeffrey westbrook/studio d. opposite page, on model: top, richard chai

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$4.99 $10.95 $2.99 $22.00 $3.50 $9.00 $3.75 $3.49 $2.50 $22.00 $4.31 $3.50 + $6.99 $99.97

For information on where to buy, see Shopping Directory.

MAKEUP MUSTS by makeup artist Tina Turnbow

Grand total: $99.97 $4.99 1 Burt’s Bees Lip Shimmer in Merlot: “If you want a stain that enhances your natural lip color, use this instead of lipstick.” $10.95 2 L’Oréal Paris True Match Blush in Innocent Flush: “As with any drugstore brand, it’s advisable to choose peachy neutrals, which flatter most complexions. This pigment is so light, it’s virtually mistake-proof.” $2.99 3 Maybelline Eyeshadow in Earthly Taupe: “Matte taupe is a great everyday neutral that’s more versatile than a shimmer. Mix with other colors if you want to tone them down.” $22 4 Cargo OneBase Concealer + Foundation: “Dab a few dots of this very creamy For information on where to buy, see Shopping Directory.

concealer on the T-zone and blend outward, then apply a little extra wherever you need more coverage. The applicator is exceptionally efficient.” $3.50 5 Milani Crystal Gloss for Lips in Secret: “I like this milky shade for a shiny, nude lip. To create a pouty mouth, use a little in the center of your lower lip.” $9 6 Alison Raffaele OilBlotting Tissues: “Adding more powder throughout the day or night makes your face masklike. This fine, pliable paper will remove excess oil but won’t smear your makeup.” $3.75 7 Prestige Lipliner in Shimmer: “This enhances your

lip contour no matter what shade you’re wearing. The key is to blend it properly so you never see the line.” $3.49 8 Rimmel London Soft Kohl Kajal Eye Pencil in Sable Brown: “A brown pencil is dark enough to give you definition, but it won’t make eyes look smaller the way black can. This one’s soft enough to use on the inside rim of the eye.” $2.50 9 Desert Essence Lip Rescue: “This is neither too shiny nor waxy—perfect when mixed with your lip pencil for a natural day look.” $22 10 Sue Devitt Eye Intensifier Pencil in Victoria Falls: “This inky blue flatters all eye colors

An MC exclusive! Through the end of November, MC readers will save 25 percent and get free shipping on orders over $75 at cosmeticmarket.com. Just type in the discount code “marieclaire” at checkout.

and brightens the whites. Use it as a pencil, or smudge it with the sponge tip for a dramatic look.” $4.31 11 CoverGirl Remarkable Mascara in Very Black: “A deep, rich black—and the brush separates the lashes well. It’s smudge-proof but easy to remove. I also use it on the bottom lashes for evenings.” $3.50 12 Milani Crystal Gloss for Lips in Hush-Hush: “I like that this dark gloss has neither glitter nor shimmer.” $6.99 13 Revlon ColorStay Eyeshadow in Sultry Smoke: “The perfect palette for a smoky eye: There’s gray, navy, black, and a slightly lavender shimmer that’s great for highlighting.” November 2008 / marie claire 157


Our ANNUAL list of must-haves. You bet we’ve tried and tested each one!

body

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1. PREVAGE BODY TOTAL TRANSFORMING ANTI-AGING MOISTURIZER, $135: A merger of antioxidant idebenone and firming peptides ensures you’ll look younger from the neck down. 2. ST. IVES COLLAGEN ELASTIN BODY POLISH: RENEWING, $6.99: A supremely effective sugar scrub that will neither irritate skin nor leave an oil slick in your shower. 3. NIVEA MY SILHOUETTE! REDEFINING GEL-CREAM, $15.99: Talk about a pick-meup: The caffeine, white tea, and anise in this breakthrough cellulite treatment visibly tone the skin’s surface in just one month.

JEFFREY WESTBROOK/STUDIO D

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BEST BEAUTY PRODUCTS OF THE YEAR

» Win! 1000 lucky readers will receive a Marie Claire beauty box

featuring brands from this story. Go to marieclaire.com/beautybox to enter.

APRIL 2009 / MARIE CLAIRE 157


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BEST BEAUTY PRODUCTS OF THE YEAR

face

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MARIE CLAIRE INTERNATIONAL BEAUTY EDITORS’ PICKS The votes are in: Our sister editors share their beauty favorites

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1. Clarins Body Shaping Supplement, $77 2. Lancôme L’Absolu Rouge lipsticks, $29 each 3. Giorgio Armani Face Fabric foundation, $45 4. Estée Lauder Perfectionist CP+ Wrinkle Lifting Serum, $55 5. Givenchy Phenomen’Eyes Mascara, $27

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STILL LIFES: JEFFREY WESTBROOK/STUDIO D. BACKSTAGE: JASON LLOYD EVANS

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158 MARIE CLAIRE / APRIL 2009

MAC PREP + PRIME LIP, $14.50: “This is my favorite lip primer. It goes on invisibly and stops those pesky feathering lines in their tracks!” —Diana T., Daly City, CA

STILL LIFES: JEFFREY WESTBROOK/STUDIO D. BACKSTAGE: GREG KESSLER

4. AVEENO SKIN RELIEF SHOWER & BATH OIL, $6.99: Just don’t drink the water: a delicious, almond-scented, soap-free bath oil that contains soothing and calming oatmeal to moisturize and prevent itchiness. 5. ELEMIS EXOTIC FRANGIPANI MONOI BATH & SHOWER CREAM, $35: This delectable, tropical, floral-scented body wash doubles as an incredibly rich shave cream. 6. SALLY HANSEN QUICK CARE MASSAGING CUTICLE TREATMENT, $9.95: Packed with a blend of sweet almond oil and mango butter, this no-spills precision pen targets dry cuticles and stimulates nail growth.

12 READER PICK BECCA LUMINOUS SKIN COLOUR, $42: “Love this! It comes in an array of colors and is particularly beautiful on tanned skin.” —Katherine W., Chicago

» Click to buy these products at marieclaire.com/25products.

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7. NEUTROGENA AGE SHIELD FACE SUNBLOCK SPF 90+, $9.49: A stratospherically high SPF cream that’s neither greasy nor pasty and won’t cause makeup meltdown. 8. OLAY REGENERIST TOUCH OF FOUNDATION, $18.99: The ultimate multitasking tinted moisturizer boasts sunscreen and linesmoothing peptides. 9. AVEDA ENBRIGHTENMENT BRIGHTENING INTENSIVE MASSAGE MASQUE, $45: When the hydrating formula melts into your skin as you apply it, you’ll think you’re at a luxe spa. 10. SKINCEUTICALS PHLORETIN CF, $150: Buh-bye brown spots— we swear—after a week of using this supercharged antioxidant serum (layered under sunscreen, of course). 11. CHANEL UV ESSENTIEL, $48: Perfect for breakout-prone complexions, this ultralightweight sunscreen soaks in quickly and contains licorice extract to help even skin tone. The matte finish leaves skin looking fresh. 12. MD SKINCARE EZ4U 4-IN-1 FACIAL TREATMENT, $35 FOR 30 TOWELETTES: A must for commuters and frequent fliers, these antioxidant-infused facial wipes cleanse, exfoliate, tone, and moisturize skin while shielding it from free radicals. APRIL 2009 / MARIE CLAIRE 159


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BEST BEAUTY PRODUCTS OF THE YEAR

face

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body

5 9 7 4 READER PICK

MARIE CLAIRE INTERNATIONAL BEAUTY EDITORS’ PICKS The votes are in: Our sister editors share their beauty favorites

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1. Clarins Body Shaping Supplement, $77 2. Lancôme L’Absolu Rouge lipsticks, $29 each 3. Giorgio Armani Face Fabric foundation, $45 4. Estée Lauder Perfectionist CP+ Wrinkle Lifting Serum, $55 5. Givenchy Phenomen’Eyes Mascara, $27

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STILL LIFES: JEFFREY WESTBROOK/STUDIO D. BACKSTAGE: JASON LLOYD EVANS

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158 MARIE CLAIRE / APRIL 2009

MAC PREP + PRIME LIP, $14.50: “This is my favorite lip primer. It goes on invisibly and stops those pesky feathering lines in their tracks!” —Diana T., Daly City, CA

STILL LIFES: JEFFREY WESTBROOK/STUDIO D. BACKSTAGE: GREG KESSLER

4. AVEENO SKIN RELIEF SHOWER & BATH OIL, $6.99: Just don’t drink the water: a delicious, almond-scented, soap-free bath oil that contains soothing and calming oatmeal to moisturize and prevent itchiness. 5. ELEMIS EXOTIC FRANGIPANI MONOI BATH & SHOWER CREAM, $35: This delectable, tropical, floral-scented body wash doubles as an incredibly rich shave cream. 6. SALLY HANSEN QUICK CARE MASSAGING CUTICLE TREATMENT, $9.95: Packed with a blend of sweet almond oil and mango butter, this no-spills precision pen targets dry cuticles and stimulates nail growth.

12 READER PICK BECCA LUMINOUS SKIN COLOUR, $42: “Love this! It comes in an array of colors and is particularly beautiful on tanned skin.” —Katherine W., Chicago

» Click to buy these products at marieclaire.com/25products.

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7. NEUTROGENA AGE SHIELD FACE SUNBLOCK SPF 90+, $9.49: A stratospherically high SPF cream that’s neither greasy nor pasty and won’t cause makeup meltdown. 8. OLAY REGENERIST TOUCH OF FOUNDATION, $18.99: The ultimate multitasking tinted moisturizer boasts sunscreen and linesmoothing peptides. 9. AVEDA ENBRIGHTENMENT BRIGHTENING INTENSIVE MASSAGE MASQUE, $45: When the hydrating formula melts into your skin as you apply it, you’ll think you’re at a luxe spa. 10. SKINCEUTICALS PHLORETIN CF, $150: Buh-bye brown spots— we swear—after a week of using this supercharged antioxidant serum (layered under sunscreen, of course). 11. CHANEL UV ESSENTIEL, $48: Perfect for breakout-prone complexions, this ultralightweight sunscreen soaks in quickly and contains licorice extract to help even skin tone. The matte finish leaves skin looking fresh. 12. MD SKINCARE EZ4U 4-IN-1 FACIAL TREATMENT, $35 FOR 30 TOWELETTES: A must for commuters and frequent fliers, these antioxidant-infused facial wipes cleanse, exfoliate, tone, and moisturize skin while shielding it from free radicals. APRIL 2009 / MARIE CLAIRE 159


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BEST BEAUTY PRODUCTS OF THE YEAR

hair

READER PICK MATRIX BIOLAGE ULTRA-HYDRATING BALM, $15: “It’s an excellent conditioner for my dry, curly hair.” —Bianca B., Houston

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STILL LIFES: JEFFREY WESTBROOK/STUDIO D. BACKSTAGE: JASON LLOYD EVANS

13. FEKKAI SALON COLOR, $30: Save yourself the salon expense with this pro-caliber, shine-inducing conditioning formula. 14. DOVE HEAT DEFENSE THERAPY MIST, $3.96: A blowout primer that safeguards against burned strands and frizz. 15. GARNIER FRUCTIS WONDER WAVES CONDITIONER, $3.99: Polished, sculpted waves fresh from the shower, thanks to the styling ingredients. 16. JOHN FRIEDA LUXURIOUS VOLUME ALL-OUT HOLD HAIRSPRAY, $6.50: A waterfree (meaning no frizz) mist that takes your hair to the next level—and keeps it there. 17. T3 360˚ REFRESH, $25: This dry shampoo extends your blowout for an extra day (or two). Plus, the dark formula looks believably brown. 18. PANTENE PRO-V BEAUTIFUL LENGTHS 2-IN-1 SHAMPOO + CONDITIONER, $3.99: Embrace the tangle-free technology and keep your cut looking fresh. 19. L’ORÉAL EVERPURE MOISTURE DEEP RESTORATIVE MASQUE, $8.99: A protein smoothie for your scalp, this intense mask hydrates dry and damaged hair without weighing down fine strands.


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TRISH MCEVOY FLAWLESS CONCEALER PEN, $32: “Simply the best blending concealer I’ve tried. A lifesaver after a sleepless night!” —Bea D., New York City

20. REVLON VISION TWEEZER, $6.99: The cleverly angled tip enables you to pluck with precision, not pain. 21. LANCÔME ÔSCILLATION VIBRATING MASCARA, $34: The battery-powered wand does the wiggle work for you, separating, lengthening, and coating every lash with rich color. 22. CLINIQUE ALMOST POWDER MAKEUP SPF 15, $22.50: Glides on like a powder but feels sheer and silky like your favorite foundation. 23. MAX FACTOR VIVID IMPACT LIP COLOR, $7.98: These runway-modeltested shades saturate lips with bold color but keep them smoochably soft with extra moisture. 24. MAYBELLINE COLOSSAL VOLUM’EXPRESS MASCARA, $7.47: The giant brush and collagen-boosted formula plump lashes to falsie-worthy fullness. 25. CLÉ DE PEAU CONCEALER, $70: Since just a dab of this rich, creamy formula renders you flawless, even your accountant will approve. (The concentrated stick lasts almost a year.) For information on where to buy, see Shopping Directory.

READER PICK URBAN DECAY EYESHADOW, $16: “Every once in a while, I’ll splurge on myself if I know something will really make me look pretty.” —Kristi B., Luling, LA

» Want to know how these products made the list? MC’s editors talk about test-driving 162 MARIE CLAIRE / APRIL 2009

these beauty staples in our podcast, “The Masthead with Marie Claire” (marieclaire.com).

STILL LIFES: JEFFREY WESTBROOK/STUDIO D. BACKSTAGE: JASON LLOYD EVANS

makeup

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mad about hue by Elizabeth Flahive Photographed by liz von hoene

Bold lips costar with pale cheeks, bright eyes with nude lips. Fall’s melodramatic makeup showcases one vivid color at a time

orange lips

The thought of a clementine-colored lip might strike you as tarty and intimidating, but have no fear. “Most of us can pull off a redorange,” says makeup artist Jun Funahashi, who created the looks on these pages. “You just have to find your best shade.” The key is a clean, precise application: Exfoliate lips with a damp washcloth, apply color, and top off with a same-shade liner. MC RECOMMENDs: (1) Giorgio Armani ArmaniSilk High Color Cream Lipstick #13, (2) Shiseido The Makeup Shimmering Lipstick in SL10, (3) Make Up For Ever Lipstick #201 (on model), (4) Chanel Rouge Allure in Exotic, (5) Revlon Renewist Lipcolor in Coral Fixation 8b

Marie Claire / oct 2007

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mad about hue by Elizabeth Flahive Photographed by liz von hoene

Bold lips costar with pale cheeks, bright eyes with nude lips. Fall’s melodramatic makeup showcases one vivid color at a time

orange lips

The thought of a clementine-colored lip might strike you as tarty and intimidating, but have no fear. “Most of us can pull off a redorange,” says makeup artist Jun Funahashi, who created the looks on these pages. “You just have to find your best shade.” The key is a clean, precise application: Exfoliate lips with a damp washcloth, apply color, and top off with a same-shade liner. MC RECOMMENDs: (1) Giorgio Armani ArmaniSilk High Color Cream Lipstick #13, (2) Shiseido The Makeup Shimmering Lipstick in SL10, (3) Make Up For Ever Lipstick #201 (on model), (4) Chanel Rouge Allure in Exotic, (5) Revlon Renewist Lipcolor in Coral Fixation 8b

Marie Claire / oct 2007

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plummynails

This fall, inky polishes migrate from toes to fingertips. As long as nails are kept short and round, the look exudes authority and old-school glam. Aim for a perfect paint job, whether at a salon or at home, by treating cuticles with a precision polish remover like Sephora’s Nail Polish Corrector Pen. MC RECOMMENDs: (1) Chanel Nail Polish in Tulipe Noir, (2) Sally Hansen Nail Lacquer in Navy Venom, (3) OPI Nail Lacquer in Can You Dig It (on model), (4) Creative Nail Design in Rock Royalty 10b Marie Claire / OCT 2007

OCt 2007 / Marie Claire

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plummynails

This fall, inky polishes migrate from toes to fingertips. As long as nails are kept short and round, the look exudes authority and old-school glam. Aim for a perfect paint job, whether at a salon or at home, by treating cuticles with a precision polish remover like Sephora’s Nail Polish Corrector Pen. MC RECOMMENDs: (1) Chanel Nail Polish in Tulipe Noir, (2) Sally Hansen Nail Lacquer in Navy Venom, (3) OPI Nail Lacquer in Can You Dig It (on model), (4) Creative Nail Design in Rock Royalty 10b Marie Claire / OCT 2007

OCt 2007 / Marie Claire

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bright shadows Multiple textures ensure this graphic ’60s look stays glam, not garish. Funahashi uses a bright liquid along the lashline and a less vibrant powder across the lid. “The trick is to keep the rest of your face looking bare and fresh,” she says. “Cheek and lip colors shouldn’t compete.” MC RECOMMENDs: (1) CoverGirl Eye Enhancers in Sapphire Sparkle, (2) Estée Lauder Eye Shadow in Lagoon, (3) Victoria’s Secret Very Silky Eye Shadow in Spin, (4) L’Oréal HIP Color Rich Cream Crayon in Intricate (on model)

12b

Marie Claire / OCT 2007

hair: greg bitterman for KÉrastase at Exclusive Artists Mgt. New york. makeup: jun funahashi for chanel at l’atelier nyc. manicure: tabitha for artistsbytimothypriano.com. still lifes: gisel florez

hats: first spread, christine a. moore millinery; second spread, miss sixty; third spread, philip treacy for donna karan collection

OCT 2007 / Marie Claire

13b


1 2

3

4

bright shadows Multiple textures ensure this graphic ’60s look stays glam, not garish. Funahashi uses a bright liquid along the lashline and a less vibrant powder across the lid. “The trick is to keep the rest of your face looking bare and fresh,” she says. “Cheek and lip colors shouldn’t compete.” MC RECOMMENDs: (1) CoverGirl Eye Enhancers in Sapphire Sparkle, (2) Estée Lauder Eye Shadow in Lagoon, (3) Victoria’s Secret Very Silky Eye Shadow in Spin, (4) L’Oréal HIP Color Rich Cream Crayon in Intricate (on model)

12b

Marie Claire / OCT 2007

hair: greg bitterman for KÉrastase at Exclusive Artists Mgt. New york. makeup: jun funahashi for chanel at l’atelier nyc. manicure: tabitha for artistsbytimothypriano.com. still lifes: gisel florez

hats: first spread, christine a. moore millinery; second spread, miss sixty; third spread, philip treacy for donna karan collection

OCT 2007 / Marie Claire

13b


Cutting-edge sunscreens, bronzer breakthroughs, and the truth about vitamin D. Plus, the tech-savvy skin test that may save you from cancer

this page: bikini top, Vpl. next page, spread: swimsuit, Emilio pucci; earrings, alexis bittar

By Ning Chao Photographed by Don Flood

Your Ultimate Summer Skin Guide

june 2010 / marie claire 159


Beauty Holy Mole-y

Worried about melanoma, the suspiciously spotted Meredith Bryan strips down for a full-body mole check It’s 3 p.m. on a Wednesday, and all I’m wearing are my plum silk panties with chartreuse lace trim. A middle-aged blonde named Maddie is coaxing me into poses (“Like Twister,” she says with a dark laugh) while taking my picture with a handheld Canon. Click, click. Maddie moves in closer (“You’re so fair that it’s hard to focus the camera,” she says). I stifle a nervous laugh and struggle to keep my balance as she zeroes in on my backside. I can’t believe I’m doing this. Finally, she tells me to put my hospital gown back on. I’ve come to Maddie because of skin cancer. When you’re as pale as I am and have as many moles “as a 45-year-old” (to quote my dermatologist—I’m 30), a

MC Recommends: Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Powerful Sun Protection SPF 30 Daily Sunscreen Towelettes, $18. Aveeno Positively Ageless Sunblock Lotion SPF 70, $11.99. Chantecaille Protection Naturelle SPF 46 Powder, $65. Coppertone Sensitive Skin Sunscreen Lotion SPF 50, $9.25. Estée Lauder Bronze Goddess Sunscreen SPF 30, $22. Nivea Sun Protection Lip Care SPF 30, $2.49. Hawaiian Tropic Sensitive Skin Stick Sunscreen SPF 50, $4.99. Kinerase Ultimate Volume Lip Conditioner SPF 20, $28. 160 marie claire / june 2010

discreet visual once-over no longer cuts it. Especially if you’ve spent your college years roasting during spring breaks. Maddie is a nurse for MoleSafe, a clinic affiliated with NYU Langone Medical Center in Manhattan. She tells me that mole-mapping, which originated in New Zealand, is catching on in the U.S., where melanoma is the most common form of cancer among late 20-somethings, according to the Skin Cancer Foundation. (Scarily, its incidence is rising faster than any of the seven most common forms of cancer.) The process is . . . thorough. After Maddie photographs every inch of my dermis— including the undersides of my bare breasts, which requires that I clutch and lift them, Janet Jackson style, and yes, I’m now regretting the French-hooker panties and my lilac nail polish—a grid of my pasty body parts floods her computer screen, all captured at extremely close range under fluorescent light from their least flattering angles (is that bacne?). She

explains apologetically that these aren’t meant to be glamour shots before whipping out the camera yet again, this time to individually document each potentially worrisome mole with a dermoscopic lens pressed against my skin. She hunts down 33 suspects in total, each asymmetrical, irregular in coloring, or just darker than the rest, and after “mapping” their locations on a 3-D mannequin on her screen, she enlarges them one by one, magnified by a factor of 10, for my viewing pleasure. “Beauty marks” no longer, they look grotesque, jagged-edged, and alive, like mold festering under a microscope. Several days later, I call Dr. David Polsky, a skin cancer specialist at NYU Langone, who is now intimately familiar with my moliage and the stretch marks on my breasts. I blush over the phone as he tells me he has reviewed my photos. He doesn’t think I have cancer . . . yet. I do have three “atypical nevi” (rhymes with Levi) on my back, so he suggests I come back in three months so he can see if they’ve changed—a telltale sign of melanoma. I’m relieved he’s caught these malicious-sounding nevi. I’m also relieved that, while my afternoon of nudity will haunt me at future appointments with my dermatologist (who will receive a copy of the photos), I won’t need another rendezvous with Maddie for at least a year or two. Which leaves me plenty of time to buy more sensible panties.


Beauty Holy Mole-y

Worried about melanoma, the suspiciously spotted Meredith Bryan strips down for a full-body mole check It’s 3 p.m. on a Wednesday, and all I’m wearing are my plum silk panties with chartreuse lace trim. A middle-aged blonde named Maddie is coaxing me into poses (“Like Twister,” she says with a dark laugh) while taking my picture with a handheld Canon. Click, click. Maddie moves in closer (“You’re so fair that it’s hard to focus the camera,” she says). I stifle a nervous laugh and struggle to keep my balance as she zeroes in on my backside. I can’t believe I’m doing this. Finally, she tells me to put my hospital gown back on. I’ve come to Maddie because of skin cancer. When you’re as pale as I am and have as many moles “as a 45-year-old” (to quote my dermatologist—I’m 30), a

MC Recommends: Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Powerful Sun Protection SPF 30 Daily Sunscreen Towelettes, $18. Aveeno Positively Ageless Sunblock Lotion SPF 70, $11.99. Chantecaille Protection Naturelle SPF 46 Powder, $65. Coppertone Sensitive Skin Sunscreen Lotion SPF 50, $9.25. Estée Lauder Bronze Goddess Sunscreen SPF 30, $22. Nivea Sun Protection Lip Care SPF 30, $2.49. Hawaiian Tropic Sensitive Skin Stick Sunscreen SPF 50, $4.99. Kinerase Ultimate Volume Lip Conditioner SPF 20, $28. 160 marie claire / june 2010

discreet visual once-over no longer cuts it. Especially if you’ve spent your college years roasting during spring breaks. Maddie is a nurse for MoleSafe, a clinic affiliated with NYU Langone Medical Center in Manhattan. She tells me that mole-mapping, which originated in New Zealand, is catching on in the U.S., where melanoma is the most common form of cancer among late 20-somethings, according to the Skin Cancer Foundation. (Scarily, its incidence is rising faster than any of the seven most common forms of cancer.) The process is . . . thorough. After Maddie photographs every inch of my dermis— including the undersides of my bare breasts, which requires that I clutch and lift them, Janet Jackson style, and yes, I’m now regretting the French-hooker panties and my lilac nail polish—a grid of my pasty body parts floods her computer screen, all captured at extremely close range under fluorescent light from their least flattering angles (is that bacne?). She

explains apologetically that these aren’t meant to be glamour shots before whipping out the camera yet again, this time to individually document each potentially worrisome mole with a dermoscopic lens pressed against my skin. She hunts down 33 suspects in total, each asymmetrical, irregular in coloring, or just darker than the rest, and after “mapping” their locations on a 3-D mannequin on her screen, she enlarges them one by one, magnified by a factor of 10, for my viewing pleasure. “Beauty marks” no longer, they look grotesque, jagged-edged, and alive, like mold festering under a microscope. Several days later, I call Dr. David Polsky, a skin cancer specialist at NYU Langone, who is now intimately familiar with my moliage and the stretch marks on my breasts. I blush over the phone as he tells me he has reviewed my photos. He doesn’t think I have cancer . . . yet. I do have three “atypical nevi” (rhymes with Levi) on my back, so he suggests I come back in three months so he can see if they’ve changed—a telltale sign of melanoma. I’m relieved he’s caught these malicious-sounding nevi. I’m also relieved that, while my afternoon of nudity will haunt me at future appointments with my dermatologist (who will receive a copy of the photos), I won’t need another rendezvous with Maddie for at least a year or two. Which leaves me plenty of time to buy more sensible panties.


Beauty makes the skin look better, but the FDA is now investigating whether repeated peeling makes you more susceptible to deeper damage.” He also cautions that certain active ingredients can negate a sunscreen’s efficacy, making you more vulnerable. “If you put on benzoyl peroxide with sunscreen, it will inactivate the protection. Glycolic acids with sunscreens could have bad effects, too. We can’t explain why we’re seeing so many skin cancers now. Sometimes doctors blame it on lifestyle or ozone depletion, but it could be because of the products we’ve recommended for the past 20 years.”

Screen Savers Sunscreen bottles are getting a face-lift this year, due to new FDA regulations that require both UVA and UVB protection labeling. Why isn’t good old SPF enough? This number measures only UVB, which is partially responsible for sunburn, discoloration, and some skin cancers. Longer-wavelength UVA rays penetrate deeper, contributing to wrinkles and melanoma, the deadliest type of skin cancer, according to American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) President Elect Dr. Ronald Moy. “We’re now finding

vitamin D-Day If it seemed like everyone suddenly became vitamin D deficient overnight, that’s because new research linking its low levels to everything from heart disease to depression has forced physicians to re-evaluate daily requirements. Turns out, vitamin D isn’t actually a vitamin but a hormone the skin produces when exposed to sunlight. “Having low vitamin D is like not having enough insulin or thyroid hormone. It’s a disease state,” explains Los Angeles endocrinologist Dr. Sarfraz

MC Recommends: L’Oréal Paris Sublime Bronze ProPerfect Salon Airbrush Self-Tanning Mist, $10.49. MAC To the Beach Bronze Body Oil, $22. Elemis Total Glow Self Tanning Cream, $28. Jergens Natural Glow Daily Revitalizing Moisturizer, $8.99. Lancôme Flash Bronzer Anti-Age, $36. Smashbox Halo Hydrating Perfecting Bronzer, $39. Clarins Delectable Self Tanning Mousse, $42.

Zaidi, author of Power of Vitamin D. In the past decade, we’ve discovered that vitamin D does more than just help with calcium absorption and healthy bone maintenance; it helps with the natural turnover of cells. D deficiencies slow down cell death, so damaged cells linger and can mutate into tumors and cancer, Zaidi adds. The old daily requirement of 600 international units (to prevent osteoporosis and rickets) is not enough to protect you from this deficiency, but don’t start sun-worshipping just yet. A new recommended dosage has not been established because, like thyroid hormone or insulin, vitamin D is not a one-size-fits-all pill. “There has been a lot of research from Boston University professor Dr. Michael Holick about the importance of UV exposure for vitamin D, but he’s funded by the tanning industry,” says Chapas. Aside from Holick and his followers, most doctors don’t think the risk of skin cancer is worth the extra sun exposure (sunblock blocks vitamin D as well). Instead, Zaidi suggests supplementing with vitamin D3 pills. Ask your doctor for a 25 Hydroxy vitamin D test to find out if you’re deficient.

that UVA may be as or more carcinogenic for melanoma,” he says. “Tanning beds are pure UVA. More young women have skin cancer from using them.” What’s inside the bottle is also getting an update, with new liquid formulas (perfect for oily summer complexions) hitting shelves now. But note that these typically contain chemical sun filters, and if your skin is extra sensitive or already slightly charred, anti-inflammatory zinc oxide can help soothe irritation while physically blocking UVA and UVB, says New York City dermatologist Dr. Anne Chapas. “As chemical sunscreens [like Parsol 1789, Oxybenzone, Homosalate, Octocrylene, and Octisalate] absorb UV light, they’re also breaking down,” explains Chapas, who prefers physical blocks because they don’t need to be reapplied as often. Chapas also suggests boosting your block potential with antioxidants. “They play a key role in reversing sun damage,” she 162 marie claire / june 2010

says. However, new research presented at this year’s AAD meeting shows that some antioxidants can become harmful when exposed to sunlight, magnifying UV damage instead of diminishing it. One safe and effective antioxidant is vitamin E, which is naturally secreted by the body (in sebum) to protect the skin and is a key ingredient in Neutrogena’s Helioplex360 (found in its Spectrum+ and Age Shield+ Repair SPF 55) and Coppertone Sport With Replenishing Antioxidants sunscreens.

Damage Control “Wrinkling, freckles, skin thinning—everything we associate with aging is really sun damage, which is essentially DNA damage,” explains Moy. “After someone goes tanning, you can measure DNA damage by testing the amount of toxins excreted in their urine.” When you’re 20, DNA repair enzymes in your skin are doing their job,

but these enzyme levels drop as you get older. Moy suggests supplementing your body’s own supply with serums and creams fortified with DNA repair enzymes from natural plant sources like plankton. “Within hours, you can measure the results of putting more on your skin,” says Moy. Previous post-sun regimens relied heavily on microdermabrasion and acid peels to remove dry, discolored, “damaged” skin, but there’s not enough evidence to show that it repairs DNA, says Moy. “Exfoliation temporarily MC Recommends: Olay Professional Pro-X Exfoliating Renewal, $18.99. DNA EGF Renewal DNA Intensive Renewal, $125.

fashion editor: zoe glassner. hair: mark townsend for moroccanoil at tenfoldtalent.com. makeup: rachel goodwin for chanel cosmetics at the wall group. manicure: tom bachik for chanel. production: michelle hynek for first shot productions. this page: top, michael kors; earrings, alexis bittar. opposite page: bodysuit, maxmara

MC Recommends: UV SunSense Wristband, $7.99. SkinCeuticals Sheer Physical UV Defense SPF 50, $30. Garnier Nutritioniste Skin Renew Lotion SPF 28, $12.99. Kiehl’s Super Fluid UV Defense SPF 50+, $29. Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Liquid Daily Sunblock SPF 70, $11.99.

For information on where to buy, see Shopping Directory.

june 2010 / marie claire 163


Beauty makes the skin look better, but the FDA is now investigating whether repeated peeling makes you more susceptible to deeper damage.” He also cautions that certain active ingredients can negate a sunscreen’s efficacy, making you more vulnerable. “If you put on benzoyl peroxide with sunscreen, it will inactivate the protection. Glycolic acids with sunscreens could have bad effects, too. We can’t explain why we’re seeing so many skin cancers now. Sometimes doctors blame it on lifestyle or ozone depletion, but it could be because of the products we’ve recommended for the past 20 years.”

Screen Savers Sunscreen bottles are getting a face-lift this year, due to new FDA regulations that require both UVA and UVB protection labeling. Why isn’t good old SPF enough? This number measures only UVB, which is partially responsible for sunburn, discoloration, and some skin cancers. Longer-wavelength UVA rays penetrate deeper, contributing to wrinkles and melanoma, the deadliest type of skin cancer, according to American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) President Elect Dr. Ronald Moy. “We’re now finding

vitamin D-Day If it seemed like everyone suddenly became vitamin D deficient overnight, that’s because new research linking its low levels to everything from heart disease to depression has forced physicians to re-evaluate daily requirements. Turns out, vitamin D isn’t actually a vitamin but a hormone the skin produces when exposed to sunlight. “Having low vitamin D is like not having enough insulin or thyroid hormone. It’s a disease state,” explains Los Angeles endocrinologist Dr. Sarfraz

MC Recommends: L’Oréal Paris Sublime Bronze ProPerfect Salon Airbrush Self-Tanning Mist, $10.49. MAC To the Beach Bronze Body Oil, $22. Elemis Total Glow Self Tanning Cream, $28. Jergens Natural Glow Daily Revitalizing Moisturizer, $8.99. Lancôme Flash Bronzer Anti-Age, $36. Smashbox Halo Hydrating Perfecting Bronzer, $39. Clarins Delectable Self Tanning Mousse, $42.

Zaidi, author of Power of Vitamin D. In the past decade, we’ve discovered that vitamin D does more than just help with calcium absorption and healthy bone maintenance; it helps with the natural turnover of cells. D deficiencies slow down cell death, so damaged cells linger and can mutate into tumors and cancer, Zaidi adds. The old daily requirement of 600 international units (to prevent osteoporosis and rickets) is not enough to protect you from this deficiency, but don’t start sun-worshipping just yet. A new recommended dosage has not been established because, like thyroid hormone or insulin, vitamin D is not a one-size-fits-all pill. “There has been a lot of research from Boston University professor Dr. Michael Holick about the importance of UV exposure for vitamin D, but he’s funded by the tanning industry,” says Chapas. Aside from Holick and his followers, most doctors don’t think the risk of skin cancer is worth the extra sun exposure (sunblock blocks vitamin D as well). Instead, Zaidi suggests supplementing with vitamin D3 pills. Ask your doctor for a 25 Hydroxy vitamin D test to find out if you’re deficient.

that UVA may be as or more carcinogenic for melanoma,” he says. “Tanning beds are pure UVA. More young women have skin cancer from using them.” What’s inside the bottle is also getting an update, with new liquid formulas (perfect for oily summer complexions) hitting shelves now. But note that these typically contain chemical sun filters, and if your skin is extra sensitive or already slightly charred, anti-inflammatory zinc oxide can help soothe irritation while physically blocking UVA and UVB, says New York City dermatologist Dr. Anne Chapas. “As chemical sunscreens [like Parsol 1789, Oxybenzone, Homosalate, Octocrylene, and Octisalate] absorb UV light, they’re also breaking down,” explains Chapas, who prefers physical blocks because they don’t need to be reapplied as often. Chapas also suggests boosting your block potential with antioxidants. “They play a key role in reversing sun damage,” she 162 marie claire / june 2010

says. However, new research presented at this year’s AAD meeting shows that some antioxidants can become harmful when exposed to sunlight, magnifying UV damage instead of diminishing it. One safe and effective antioxidant is vitamin E, which is naturally secreted by the body (in sebum) to protect the skin and is a key ingredient in Neutrogena’s Helioplex360 (found in its Spectrum+ and Age Shield+ Repair SPF 55) and Coppertone Sport With Replenishing Antioxidants sunscreens.

Damage Control “Wrinkling, freckles, skin thinning—everything we associate with aging is really sun damage, which is essentially DNA damage,” explains Moy. “After someone goes tanning, you can measure DNA damage by testing the amount of toxins excreted in their urine.” When you’re 20, DNA repair enzymes in your skin are doing their job,

but these enzyme levels drop as you get older. Moy suggests supplementing your body’s own supply with serums and creams fortified with DNA repair enzymes from natural plant sources like plankton. “Within hours, you can measure the results of putting more on your skin,” says Moy. Previous post-sun regimens relied heavily on microdermabrasion and acid peels to remove dry, discolored, “damaged” skin, but there’s not enough evidence to show that it repairs DNA, says Moy. “Exfoliation temporarily MC Recommends: Olay Professional Pro-X Exfoliating Renewal, $18.99. DNA EGF Renewal DNA Intensive Renewal, $125.

fashion editor: zoe glassner. hair: mark townsend for moroccanoil at tenfoldtalent.com. makeup: rachel goodwin for chanel cosmetics at the wall group. manicure: tom bachik for chanel. production: michelle hynek for first shot productions. this page: top, michael kors; earrings, alexis bittar. opposite page: bodysuit, maxmara

MC Recommends: UV SunSense Wristband, $7.99. SkinCeuticals Sheer Physical UV Defense SPF 50, $30. Garnier Nutritioniste Skin Renew Lotion SPF 28, $12.99. Kiehl’s Super Fluid UV Defense SPF 50+, $29. Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Liquid Daily Sunblock SPF 70, $11.99.

For information on where to buy, see Shopping Directory.

june 2010 / marie claire 163


Beauty

9 DAYS JUMINER/MONDADORI SYNDICATION

TO GLOWING SKIN

«

The fast track to a clearer, brighter, smoother complexion (P.S. It doesn’t involve a bundle of $500 creams) change your outlook and your appearance in just over a week? Less stress, better sleep, fewer lines? As a dermatologist and psychiatrist, I’ve learned that there’s much more to looking great than just retinol and Botox. Treating issues psychologically is as essential as treating them topically. And I always tell my patients that if they focus on just the mind or just the body, they’re missing half the equation. This simple nine-day plan (start on a Saturday to include two weekends) is a vacation for your skin—enough time to establish new, healthier habits and notice a real difference in how you look and feel.

WHAT IF YOU COULD

By MC’s resident Beauty Shrink, Amy Wechsler, M.D., author of The MindBeauty Connection

SEPTEMBER 2008 / MARIE CLAIRE 241


Beauty Nap Quest

DAY 1: SIMPLIFY

DAY 2: RELAX Sex, especially in a loving, secure relationship (not the “Is he going to call me?” kind) is a beauty bonus. Dr. David Weeks, a clinical neuropsychologist at Scotland’s Royal Edinburgh Hospital, found that sex helps you look four to seven years younger. He attributes this to significant reductions in stress, greater contentment, and better sleep. 242

MARIE CLAIRE / SEPTEMBER 2008

THE BEAUTY BUFFET

How to get more beauty sleep: Set aside 30 minutes total—10 minutes to fall asleep and 20 minutes for the actual nap. Use an alarm. Avoid napping past 3 p.m. If you nap too late in the day, you can disrupt your nighttime sleep.

Eight soothing foods for less stress and better skin BERRIES, ANY BERRIES They’re great at countering the skindamaging free radicals generated by stress. When the pressure is on, eat them one by one (like healthy M&Ms). GUACAMOLE Avocados are loaded with B vitamins, which stress quickly depletes and which your body needs to maintain nerves and brain cells. Plus, their creaminess comes from healthy monounsaturated fat— the same kind that makes olive oil good for your skin. NUTS Just an ounce of walnuts will help replace those stress-depleted B’s; Brazil nuts give you a whopping amount of selenium and zinc, which prevent dry, itchy skin; almonds boost your vitamin E, which helps fight cellular damage linked to chronic stress and may even lower your blood pressure by helping your arteries relax. ORANGES According to a recent study, people who took 1000 mg of vitamin C before giving a speech had lower cortisol levels and blood pressure than those who didn’t. ASPARAGUS Each tender stalk is a source of folate, a B vitamin that appears to be essential for mood and proper nerve function in the brain. SALMON AND OTHER FATTY FISH The omega-3 fatty acid in salmon (called DHA) isn’t just good for your skin. Studies show people who eat ample amounts of DHA have a much lower incidence of depression, aggressiveness, and hostility. Some people report lifts in mood within days or even hours of eating omega-3-rich meals. SPINACH Happy greens (the dark, leafy ones) like spinach are a quick way to get your daily vitamin A, which helps revitalize the skin’s surface by increasing cell turnover. DARK CHOCOLATE No one knows for sure why we crave chocolate. It could be one of its hundreds of compounds, including phenylethylamine (a chemical that triggers feelings similar to falling in love), or simply the taste. What we do know is that the antioxidant flavonols in dark chocolate (check labels; you want 70 percent or more cacao) help keep blood pressure steady and your mind sharp. They also may help curb cellular damage caused by stress.

1 2 3

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Frequent sex also releases estrogen, which is great for your skin. (“Frequent,” meaning twice a week.) The icing on the cake is that you can burn about as many calories having sex as you would weight training or walking at 3 mph. And sex might even be as good as a sleeping pill: The relaxing endorphins released during orgasm stick around for five minutes to an hour afterward, which may explain why people too stressed out to sleep drift off more easily after sex. If you don’t have a partner right now, then pleasure yourself. You can reap the same benefits.

DAY 3: GO GREEN Even if you live in a big city, the air indoors is more toxic than out. Invisible pollutants can come from your electronics, furniture, carpets, paints, and heating and air-conditioning units. So getting outside is one of the best things

you can do to lessen your exposure to pollutants and other elements that trigger free radicals. Just taking a long walk will suffice. Step outside (leave your iPod behind!) and take in your surroundings. When you find yourself becoming hyperaware and “in the moment,” I want you to think about what you’re thankful for. It can be general or specific: your health, family, work, last birthday party, and so on. Let your mind and memory run free. This is a great way to reduce stress while appreciating where you are right now.

DAY 4: EAT CLEAN For a better complexion, eat a varied diet that’s heavy on fruits, veggies, whole grains, legumes, nuts, and calcium-rich foods. The advice really hasn’t changed from when you were younger. What has—the incentive. Now you know that the right diet can

PAMELA HANSON/ART + COMMERCE

When patients first come to me, I often ask them to bring in all their products so I can see what they use and where they may be going wrong. I see too many women who overtreat and overscrub their faces. Instead of boosting their natural glow and cell turnover, they end up causing irritation and inflammation. The bottom line: Don’t overdo it. For these nine days, stick with a simple skincare regimen that includes cleansing and moisturizing twice daily, plus sunscreen during the day. That’s step one. Step two is finding some of that free cosmetic medicine: sleep. To get what you need, follow this ritual every day of your program, and, ideally, every day thereafter: 4 to 6 hours before bed: Stop ingesting any caffeine. 2 to 3 hours before: Avoid eating. Digesting food can keep you awake. 60 minutes before: Turn off all electronics and dim the lights. Mental stimulation (especially from the nightly news and Sopranos reruns) and light signal your brain to stay alert. 30 minutes before: Drink something soothing, like chamomile tea, warm milk, or a splash of a relaxing nightcap (not a glass—too much alcohol can wake you up later). Try a warm bath or light reading (no work!). 5 minutes before: Make sure your bedroom is dark (or wear an eye mask), quiet (a white-noise machine or earplugs can help), slightly cool, and free of distractions (clutter, pets, work piles). TIP: Change your sheets and pillowcases at least once a week; there’s no sense in applying beauty creams at night if you’re cozying up to breakoutcausing bacteria.

help your skin—reducing inflammation and dryness, and even preventing aging. That said, let’s focus today on eating as cleanly as possible—no artificial or processed anything. That includes refined sugar, soda (both diet and regular), and processed meats and cheeses. It can take time to wean yourself off highly refined carbs, but tune in to how your body feels today. TIP: Drink water or green tea throughout the day. Try sparkling water and add a splash of natural (no sugar added) cranberry juice, which is rich in antioxidants. Drop in a wedge of cucumber, lemon, lime, or melon for added flavor.

DAY 5: MAKE A MOVE I believe everyone (no matter how busy) should find time to fit in 30 minutes of physical activity at least three days a week. A gym class, power walking with friends, dancing . . . there are

lots of options. Don’t make it a chore, and don’t make yourself miserable by doing something you hate. Exercise should be enjoyable, something you look forward to every day. Just last year a study showed that exercise helps reverse aging at the cellular level. A team of Canadian and American researchers looked at the effects of six months of strength training in volunteers aged 65 and older. They took small biopsies of thighmuscle cells from the subjects and compared them with muscle cells from volunteers whose average age was 22. After strength training, the elderly volunteers’ genetic fingerprint was reversed nearly to that of the younger people. TIP: You’ve just hit the halfway mark. Give yourself something special. Block out one full hour today to do anything you want. Veg in front of the TV, go shopping for some new makeup,

6

7

8

SEPTEMBER 2008 / MARIE CLAIRE 243


Beauty Nap Quest

DAY 1: SIMPLIFY

DAY 2: RELAX Sex, especially in a loving, secure relationship (not the “Is he going to call me?” kind) is a beauty bonus. Dr. David Weeks, a clinical neuropsychologist at Scotland’s Royal Edinburgh Hospital, found that sex helps you look four to seven years younger. He attributes this to significant reductions in stress, greater contentment, and better sleep. 242

MARIE CLAIRE / SEPTEMBER 2008

THE BEAUTY BUFFET

How to get more beauty sleep: Set aside 30 minutes total—10 minutes to fall asleep and 20 minutes for the actual nap. Use an alarm. Avoid napping past 3 p.m. If you nap too late in the day, you can disrupt your nighttime sleep.

Eight soothing foods for less stress and better skin BERRIES, ANY BERRIES They’re great at countering the skindamaging free radicals generated by stress. When the pressure is on, eat them one by one (like healthy M&Ms). GUACAMOLE Avocados are loaded with B vitamins, which stress quickly depletes and which your body needs to maintain nerves and brain cells. Plus, their creaminess comes from healthy monounsaturated fat— the same kind that makes olive oil good for your skin. NUTS Just an ounce of walnuts will help replace those stress-depleted B’s; Brazil nuts give you a whopping amount of selenium and zinc, which prevent dry, itchy skin; almonds boost your vitamin E, which helps fight cellular damage linked to chronic stress and may even lower your blood pressure by helping your arteries relax. ORANGES According to a recent study, people who took 1000 mg of vitamin C before giving a speech had lower cortisol levels and blood pressure than those who didn’t. ASPARAGUS Each tender stalk is a source of folate, a B vitamin that appears to be essential for mood and proper nerve function in the brain. SALMON AND OTHER FATTY FISH The omega-3 fatty acid in salmon (called DHA) isn’t just good for your skin. Studies show people who eat ample amounts of DHA have a much lower incidence of depression, aggressiveness, and hostility. Some people report lifts in mood within days or even hours of eating omega-3-rich meals. SPINACH Happy greens (the dark, leafy ones) like spinach are a quick way to get your daily vitamin A, which helps revitalize the skin’s surface by increasing cell turnover. DARK CHOCOLATE No one knows for sure why we crave chocolate. It could be one of its hundreds of compounds, including phenylethylamine (a chemical that triggers feelings similar to falling in love), or simply the taste. What we do know is that the antioxidant flavonols in dark chocolate (check labels; you want 70 percent or more cacao) help keep blood pressure steady and your mind sharp. They also may help curb cellular damage caused by stress.

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Frequent sex also releases estrogen, which is great for your skin. (“Frequent,” meaning twice a week.) The icing on the cake is that you can burn about as many calories having sex as you would weight training or walking at 3 mph. And sex might even be as good as a sleeping pill: The relaxing endorphins released during orgasm stick around for five minutes to an hour afterward, which may explain why people too stressed out to sleep drift off more easily after sex. If you don’t have a partner right now, then pleasure yourself. You can reap the same benefits.

DAY 3: GO GREEN Even if you live in a big city, the air indoors is more toxic than out. Invisible pollutants can come from your electronics, furniture, carpets, paints, and heating and air-conditioning units. So getting outside is one of the best things

you can do to lessen your exposure to pollutants and other elements that trigger free radicals. Just taking a long walk will suffice. Step outside (leave your iPod behind!) and take in your surroundings. When you find yourself becoming hyperaware and “in the moment,” I want you to think about what you’re thankful for. It can be general or specific: your health, family, work, last birthday party, and so on. Let your mind and memory run free. This is a great way to reduce stress while appreciating where you are right now.

DAY 4: EAT CLEAN For a better complexion, eat a varied diet that’s heavy on fruits, veggies, whole grains, legumes, nuts, and calcium-rich foods. The advice really hasn’t changed from when you were younger. What has—the incentive. Now you know that the right diet can

PAMELA HANSON/ART + COMMERCE

When patients first come to me, I often ask them to bring in all their products so I can see what they use and where they may be going wrong. I see too many women who overtreat and overscrub their faces. Instead of boosting their natural glow and cell turnover, they end up causing irritation and inflammation. The bottom line: Don’t overdo it. For these nine days, stick with a simple skincare regimen that includes cleansing and moisturizing twice daily, plus sunscreen during the day. That’s step one. Step two is finding some of that free cosmetic medicine: sleep. To get what you need, follow this ritual every day of your program, and, ideally, every day thereafter: 4 to 6 hours before bed: Stop ingesting any caffeine. 2 to 3 hours before: Avoid eating. Digesting food can keep you awake. 60 minutes before: Turn off all electronics and dim the lights. Mental stimulation (especially from the nightly news and Sopranos reruns) and light signal your brain to stay alert. 30 minutes before: Drink something soothing, like chamomile tea, warm milk, or a splash of a relaxing nightcap (not a glass—too much alcohol can wake you up later). Try a warm bath or light reading (no work!). 5 minutes before: Make sure your bedroom is dark (or wear an eye mask), quiet (a white-noise machine or earplugs can help), slightly cool, and free of distractions (clutter, pets, work piles). TIP: Change your sheets and pillowcases at least once a week; there’s no sense in applying beauty creams at night if you’re cozying up to breakoutcausing bacteria.

help your skin—reducing inflammation and dryness, and even preventing aging. That said, let’s focus today on eating as cleanly as possible—no artificial or processed anything. That includes refined sugar, soda (both diet and regular), and processed meats and cheeses. It can take time to wean yourself off highly refined carbs, but tune in to how your body feels today. TIP: Drink water or green tea throughout the day. Try sparkling water and add a splash of natural (no sugar added) cranberry juice, which is rich in antioxidants. Drop in a wedge of cucumber, lemon, lime, or melon for added flavor.

DAY 5: MAKE A MOVE I believe everyone (no matter how busy) should find time to fit in 30 minutes of physical activity at least three days a week. A gym class, power walking with friends, dancing . . . there are

lots of options. Don’t make it a chore, and don’t make yourself miserable by doing something you hate. Exercise should be enjoyable, something you look forward to every day. Just last year a study showed that exercise helps reverse aging at the cellular level. A team of Canadian and American researchers looked at the effects of six months of strength training in volunteers aged 65 and older. They took small biopsies of thighmuscle cells from the subjects and compared them with muscle cells from volunteers whose average age was 22. After strength training, the elderly volunteers’ genetic fingerprint was reversed nearly to that of the younger people. TIP: You’ve just hit the halfway mark. Give yourself something special. Block out one full hour today to do anything you want. Veg in front of the TV, go shopping for some new makeup,

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SEPTEMBER 2008 / MARIE CLAIRE 243


Beauty

catch the

OPPOSITE PAGE: CARTER SMITH/ART+COMMERCE. THIS PAGE, FROM LEFT: COURTESY ROXY/HORNBAKER, INCO/FAME PICTURES, COLUMBIA/COURTESY EVERETT COLLECTION, G.FINLAY/REX USA, UNIVERSAL STUDIOS/J.P.JOHNSON

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152 MARIE CLAIRE / JULY 2008

’LL NEVER FORGET MY FIRST

time. Sixteen years old and perched on the sandy dunes of Cape Cod under a setting sun, I watched the surfer drop into an indigo Atlantic wave and glide all the way to shore. Mesmerized—no, obsessed—I beelined to the convenience store the very next day for surf magazines, on a mission for some kind of clue how to be just like the goddess I’d seen in the water. Yet, as I looked at the taut, tanned bodies slashing through waves in the glossy pages of Surfing, it was suddenly obvious that I had been born in the wrong place, and probably to the wrong family, too. Like quintessential California girl Cameron Diaz or Blue Crush–era Kate Bosworth, surfers have always struck the perfect balance: They look like they have no problem eating dinner in a bikini or throwing down at Pipeline’s famous waves in Hawaii. Unlike the cute, good-girl archetypes of the past, the modern Gidgets represent radiance and self-assurance. How did they get so hot? And could I, with my pasty New England skin and dull-brown, shoulder-length hair, ever come close?

BLUE CRUSHES Real-life surfer girls inspire envy with their fearless attitude and naturally sexy style

Pro surfer Lisa Andersen

The following summer, I signed up for an Orange County surf camp at San Onofre beach. The very first wave I caught washed me up on the rocky shore and pushed my bikini top down to my waist. Coughing up water, I started having doubts. Was getting pounded really the path to enlightenment? Searching for answers, I hiked my suit up, wrested my board back, and struggled to paddle out again. But in no time my arms fell limp, and I was too weak to get past the inside of the break where the waves crash. The next day, I went out into the water again, and again the day after that. Soon, I was hardly aware that I was wearing a bikini, much less worried about how I looked in it. Catching a wave became my central focus, even if most of the time it took hours to get one. As the week went on, my fear subsided. The pride I felt in standing up on my board for the first time was indescribable. The next day, I woke up with excitement instead of anxiety and loosened up around my campmates. I even found myself hanging out with the instructors who’d seemed unapproachable just days before.

»

Sporting sunkissed hair and skin, surfer girls are the beach babes we all wish we could be. Will surf lessons reveal the secret to their sex appeal? By Anna Dimond

Clearly, the sexiness and sense of adventure I sought came from someplace inside. Before a golden tan sets in or hair starts bleaching, there’s a mental shift that happens when you paddle out for those beginner waves. The secret to surfing’s transformative power stems from facing your fears and challenging yourself physically, according to Wende Zomnir, executive creative director for Urban Decay makeup, and an avid surfer. It gives you “confidence in your own skin,” she says. “Sometimes it’s not that fun, like when you get caught inside a heavy set of waves breaking on you. But if you have the power to deal with the consequences of being out there, there’s this inner beauty that’s cultivated and shines through.” It was true: Headed into my senior year of high school at the time, I was deeply nervous about leaving home

Kate Bosworth

Cameron Diaz

Elle MacPherson

Model Carolyn Murphy


Beauty

catch the

OPPOSITE PAGE: CARTER SMITH/ART+COMMERCE. THIS PAGE, FROM LEFT: COURTESY ROXY/HORNBAKER, INCO/FAME PICTURES, COLUMBIA/COURTESY EVERETT COLLECTION, G.FINLAY/REX USA, UNIVERSAL STUDIOS/J.P.JOHNSON

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152 MARIE CLAIRE / JULY 2008

’LL NEVER FORGET MY FIRST

time. Sixteen years old and perched on the sandy dunes of Cape Cod under a setting sun, I watched the surfer drop into an indigo Atlantic wave and glide all the way to shore. Mesmerized—no, obsessed—I beelined to the convenience store the very next day for surf magazines, on a mission for some kind of clue how to be just like the goddess I’d seen in the water. Yet, as I looked at the taut, tanned bodies slashing through waves in the glossy pages of Surfing, it was suddenly obvious that I had been born in the wrong place, and probably to the wrong family, too. Like quintessential California girl Cameron Diaz or Blue Crush–era Kate Bosworth, surfers have always struck the perfect balance: They look like they have no problem eating dinner in a bikini or throwing down at Pipeline’s famous waves in Hawaii. Unlike the cute, good-girl archetypes of the past, the modern Gidgets represent radiance and self-assurance. How did they get so hot? And could I, with my pasty New England skin and dull-brown, shoulder-length hair, ever come close?

BLUE CRUSHES Real-life surfer girls inspire envy with their fearless attitude and naturally sexy style

Pro surfer Lisa Andersen

The following summer, I signed up for an Orange County surf camp at San Onofre beach. The very first wave I caught washed me up on the rocky shore and pushed my bikini top down to my waist. Coughing up water, I started having doubts. Was getting pounded really the path to enlightenment? Searching for answers, I hiked my suit up, wrested my board back, and struggled to paddle out again. But in no time my arms fell limp, and I was too weak to get past the inside of the break where the waves crash. The next day, I went out into the water again, and again the day after that. Soon, I was hardly aware that I was wearing a bikini, much less worried about how I looked in it. Catching a wave became my central focus, even if most of the time it took hours to get one. As the week went on, my fear subsided. The pride I felt in standing up on my board for the first time was indescribable. The next day, I woke up with excitement instead of anxiety and loosened up around my campmates. I even found myself hanging out with the instructors who’d seemed unapproachable just days before.

»

Sporting sunkissed hair and skin, surfer girls are the beach babes we all wish we could be. Will surf lessons reveal the secret to their sex appeal? By Anna Dimond

Clearly, the sexiness and sense of adventure I sought came from someplace inside. Before a golden tan sets in or hair starts bleaching, there’s a mental shift that happens when you paddle out for those beginner waves. The secret to surfing’s transformative power stems from facing your fears and challenging yourself physically, according to Wende Zomnir, executive creative director for Urban Decay makeup, and an avid surfer. It gives you “confidence in your own skin,” she says. “Sometimes it’s not that fun, like when you get caught inside a heavy set of waves breaking on you. But if you have the power to deal with the consequences of being out there, there’s this inner beauty that’s cultivated and shines through.” It was true: Headed into my senior year of high school at the time, I was deeply nervous about leaving home

Kate Bosworth

Cameron Diaz

Elle MacPherson

Model Carolyn Murphy


Beauty

Like a Virgin

Can anything save your hair once the damage has been done? Wendy Lee attempts to restore hers to its former virtue

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’ve always had healthy, washand-wear hair—long, blonde, straight, and low-maintenance. It’s the kind of hair you take for granted until you move to L.A., city of Paris Hilton–style extensions. When women here began asking if my hair was real, I suddenly felt lucky and upped my game with products. I moussed, smoothed, and glossed on

146 marie claire / july 2009

a daily basis. But within four years, the balance of power shifted. Damage had crept up on me like the California tide, and without those products, my hair looked frayed and dull. When a top stylist advised me to lop off the same amount of length that Gwyneth had, I winced as if he’d already made the cut. Visions of all the preppy girls from high school—with their


Beauty 1. Garnier Fructis Triple Nutrition 3-Minute Undo Dryness Reversal Treatment, $5.99. 2. Aveda Volumizing Tonic, $14. 3. Dr. Hauschka Neem Hair Oil, $39.95. 4. CTonics Elixir Milk Conditioner, $25. 5. Kérastase Resistance Age Recharge Masque, $56. 6. Rene Furterer Complexe 5, $45. 7. Your Crown and Glory Just for Her Shampoo Therapy, $19.99. 8. Branché Charmeuse Case in pink and green, $75. 9. Kevin Murphy Born Again Masque, $50. 10. Kiehl’s Sunflower Color Preserving Deep Recovery Pak, $25.

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Powell suspects that products laced with dimethicone—a common silicone—are largely to blame for my damaged ends.

148 marie claire / july 2009

polo shirts and bobbed hair—sent me into denial. I decided that cutting would be cheating, like choosing lipo over the gym. Instead, I tried frantically to repair my hair. I let it air-dry, stretched the months between highlights, and slept in deep conditioner—but nothing stopped my split ends from splintering higher. So I sought out stylist Corey Powell at The Salon by Maxime in Beverly Hills. The man behind the hair masks that keep the manes of Cameron Diaz, Drew Barrymore, and Renée Zellwegger healthy between shade-shifting movie roles, Powell is best known for his allnatural “hair therapy” programs. As he inspects my head, Powell tells me that damaged hair gets nicks in the surface of the cuticle. “These are like tiny dings in the hair’s protective armor that weaken the strand until it breaks,” he explains. Coloring, harsh shampoos, sun exposure, and heat styling can all cause this kind of damage, but since mine is concentrated in the lower five inches rather than at the crown, he suspects my product habit is largely to blame—especially my weakness for items laced with dimethicone, the most common form of silicone. That smoothing ingredient acts as a barrier, sealing out moisture; it’s as adept at de-frizzing hair as waterproofing shoes (yes, it’s used for both). But there’s the rub. “If you inhibit the moisture content of the hair shaft too often, you end up with dry hair,” says trichologist Philip Kingsley. However, silicone is so commonplace it’s hard to avoid. Kingsley recommends finding products that list it low on the label and using them sparingly. But Powell suggests I go completely styling-productfree for my month of rehab. Am I at Promises for hair? I feel both betrayed by my products and anxious at the

thought of giving them up. Clearly, I need to make changes, so I commit. To get my hair naturally silky again, Powell also prescribes twice-weekly scalp-treatment masks at his salon that consist of pomegranate and camellia oil, avocado, egg white, banana, honey, milk, and follicle-rejuvenating rosemary. Once he applies the mask, Powell spends a heavenly five minutes brushing my scalp to increase blood flow and stimulate growth. “Anything you do to improve the health of the scalp will improve your hair,” he says. Then he uses the heat of a hair dryer to push the oils into my frayed, flyaway ends and protect them from shampooing. (Shampoo removes dirt and oil, but the fragile ends of the hair don’t get oily, so repeated washing dries them out.)

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fter three appointments, I have fewer flyaways and less frizz. My hair feels heavier but not weighed down. (Powell attributes this improved density to the deposited proteins.) On the fourth visit, he’s able to blow it dry without detangling it first, and it doesn’t knot. By the sixth, my highlights are brighter. “You see more color variation in healthy hair,” Powell explains. So I follow his other guidelines, too: I switch to a sulfate-free shampoo, which is less likely to fade color; I start wearing a hat in the sun; and I stop showering in really hot water. Studies show that hair is more vulnerable to sun damage in very dry (or very humid) climates and loses more of its natural keratin in hightemperature water. By month’s end, Powell pronounces the majority of my notches gone, and I’m amazed at the difference. My hair is legitimately soft without any styling aids, and naturally shiny. It took a while to get the hang of the pre-shampoo oiland-blowdry ritual, but the results have me sold. I’m not sure I’ll keep it up at home, and I am going back to volumizing mousse, but it’s a greener, Powell-approved version from Aveda. Leaving the salon, I run into two friends, one of whom has extensions. They ooh and aah over my long, healthy hair, and this time, I feel like I’ve earned it.

For information on where to buy, see Shopping Directory.

previous page: fabio chizzola/trunkarchive.com. this page: jeffrey westbrook/studio d

SAVE YOUR STRANDS

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Beauty

Beauty Matchmakers “Coordinating lips, manicures, and pedicures is a trend this spring,” declares manicurist Deborah Lippmann, who painted the nails at seven shows this season, including Rodarte and Marchesa. Whether it’s pouf skirts and pompadours or ruby fingers and toes, the right hairstyle and makeup choice can be as important as the outfit itself. That’s why designers schedule hair and makeup tests days before their show date, just to make sure everything goes together.

Tracy Reese

tracy reese

Fashion Style: Flirty femme

Rocker chick or uptown girl: How do you translate your fashion sense into hair and makeup? Five designers share their beauty styling secrets By Ning Chao Photographed by Rebecca Greenfield

Beauty Philosophy: “I think makeup should be a little bit undone. I don’t want it too pristine and perfect,” says Tracy Reese. “Personally, I’m a little lazy with beauty. If I get my own brows and lashes on—and I only added mascara this year—I’m set. I’m not a spring chicken anymore, so I think doing my lashes every day is a good idea.” Runway interpretation: Defined brows, major mascara, and a messy updo. About Face: “This is a modern take on ’30s makeup with a thinner, drawn-in brow,” explains Reese, who asked Maybelline makeup artist Charlotte Willer to apply gloss to models’ eyelids to catch the runway lights. “We added shadow below the eyes so the shine would contrast with the smokiness underneath,” says Willer. “Since we’re not putting any color on the lid, we made the lashes spiky.” Mane Event: “Tracy’s collection had a lot of layering, bright colors, and prints, so I didn’t want to do anything too busy,” says TRESemmé hairstylist Jeanie Syfu, who created the resulting updo based on the designer’s drawing of a messy pompadour (but with extra height to add glamour). “In the ’80s, I was queen of the pompadour,” adds Reese. hands on: “There’s a lot of color in my runway collection, so I wanted blackish nail polish that would give just a little bit of edge,” says Reese,

“I think makeup should be a little bit undone. I don’t want it too pristine and perfect.”

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Souleiman chats with Wella hair colorist Eva Scrivo (below) and Thakoon Panichgul (below right).

 thakoon — panichgul

222 marie claire / march 2010

Fashion Style: Sexy CEO Beauty Philosophy: “The object of a runway collection is to heighten the senses and stage a show. I don’t want to do something that you would see on the street,” explains Thakoon Panichgul. “But in reality, it’s more chic to have a classic look you always do with your hair and makeup, and then just tweaking that a bit here or there depending on if you want to be edgier one morning or prettier the next.” Runway interpretation: Monochromatic makeup with structured hair.

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Tracy Reese’s inspiration table (above); the designer scrutinizes a model’s eyebrows (far left); Charlotte Willer adds a little more definition (left).

Thakoon

thakoon

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—tracy reese

Diane Kendal (makeup) and Eugene Souleiman (hair) at Thakoon’s preshow test.

“It’s more chic to have a classic look you tweak to make edgier or prettier.”

who designed the shade Midnight in New York with Sally Hansen. “There’s an iridescent coat on top [Sally Hansen’s Hidden Treasure polish]. From one direction, the sparkles shine red, orange, pink; from the other side, they look green and blue. We’re showing almost all black shoes, so the dark nail just works with everything.” Pomp and Circumstance: 1. TRESemmé 24 Hour Body Finishing Spray, $4.49. 2. Maybelline New York Shine Sensational Lip Gloss in Minty Sheer, $5.99. 3. Maybelline New York Define-aBrow in Light Blonde, $6.95. 4. Maybelline New York Eye Studio Quad in Copper Chic, $9.99.

2 About Face: “The makeup was less ethereal this

season,” explains Nars makeup artist Diane Kendal. “Inspired by samurai and surfers, Thakoon wanted to keep the faces very strong and beautiful without using a lot of makeup, so we went monotone with beiges and browns. We kept a luminous feel to reflect the warrior aspect. Highlighting strengthens the face without adding color, and I just focused on the brow- and cheekbones. With the runway lights, I didn’t want the whole face to look greasy.” Mane Event: “The entire collection is body conscious, so I felt that the hair should be shaped

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close to the head,” says Wella hairstylist Eugene Souleiman, who tied strands into samurai-knot-like shapes. “Thakoon designs for an intelligent and sophisticated woman who loves life. I wanted to create a sculptural style that wasn’t too precious.” Warrior Princess: 1. Nars Eyeshadow Duo in Alhambra, $32. 2. Wella System Professional Supermousse, $16. 3. Nars Orgasm Illuminator, $29. 4. Nars Lip Gloss in Ophelia, $24.

march 2010 / marie claire 223


Beauty

Beauty Matchmakers “Coordinating lips, manicures, and pedicures is a trend this spring,” declares manicurist Deborah Lippmann, who painted the nails at seven shows this season, including Rodarte and Marchesa. Whether it’s pouf skirts and pompadours or ruby fingers and toes, the right hairstyle and makeup choice can be as important as the outfit itself. That’s why designers schedule hair and makeup tests days before their show date, just to make sure everything goes together.

Tracy Reese

tracy reese

Fashion Style: Flirty femme

Rocker chick or uptown girl: How do you translate your fashion sense into hair and makeup? Five designers share their beauty styling secrets By Ning Chao Photographed by Rebecca Greenfield

Beauty Philosophy: “I think makeup should be a little bit undone. I don’t want it too pristine and perfect,” says Tracy Reese. “Personally, I’m a little lazy with beauty. If I get my own brows and lashes on—and I only added mascara this year—I’m set. I’m not a spring chicken anymore, so I think doing my lashes every day is a good idea.” Runway interpretation: Defined brows, major mascara, and a messy updo. About Face: “This is a modern take on ’30s makeup with a thinner, drawn-in brow,” explains Reese, who asked Maybelline makeup artist Charlotte Willer to apply gloss to models’ eyelids to catch the runway lights. “We added shadow below the eyes so the shine would contrast with the smokiness underneath,” says Willer. “Since we’re not putting any color on the lid, we made the lashes spiky.” Mane Event: “Tracy’s collection had a lot of layering, bright colors, and prints, so I didn’t want to do anything too busy,” says TRESemmé hairstylist Jeanie Syfu, who created the resulting updo based on the designer’s drawing of a messy pompadour (but with extra height to add glamour). “In the ’80s, I was queen of the pompadour,” adds Reese. hands on: “There’s a lot of color in my runway collection, so I wanted blackish nail polish that would give just a little bit of edge,” says Reese,

“I think makeup should be a little bit undone. I don’t want it too pristine and perfect.”

1

1

Souleiman chats with Wella hair colorist Eva Scrivo (below) and Thakoon Panichgul (below right).

 thakoon — panichgul

222 marie claire / march 2010

Fashion Style: Sexy CEO Beauty Philosophy: “The object of a runway collection is to heighten the senses and stage a show. I don’t want to do something that you would see on the street,” explains Thakoon Panichgul. “But in reality, it’s more chic to have a classic look you always do with your hair and makeup, and then just tweaking that a bit here or there depending on if you want to be edgier one morning or prettier the next.” Runway interpretation: Monochromatic makeup with structured hair.

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Tracy Reese’s inspiration table (above); the designer scrutinizes a model’s eyebrows (far left); Charlotte Willer adds a little more definition (left).

Thakoon

thakoon

2

—tracy reese

Diane Kendal (makeup) and Eugene Souleiman (hair) at Thakoon’s preshow test.

“It’s more chic to have a classic look you tweak to make edgier or prettier.”

who designed the shade Midnight in New York with Sally Hansen. “There’s an iridescent coat on top [Sally Hansen’s Hidden Treasure polish]. From one direction, the sparkles shine red, orange, pink; from the other side, they look green and blue. We’re showing almost all black shoes, so the dark nail just works with everything.” Pomp and Circumstance: 1. TRESemmé 24 Hour Body Finishing Spray, $4.49. 2. Maybelline New York Shine Sensational Lip Gloss in Minty Sheer, $5.99. 3. Maybelline New York Define-aBrow in Light Blonde, $6.95. 4. Maybelline New York Eye Studio Quad in Copper Chic, $9.99.

2 About Face: “The makeup was less ethereal this

season,” explains Nars makeup artist Diane Kendal. “Inspired by samurai and surfers, Thakoon wanted to keep the faces very strong and beautiful without using a lot of makeup, so we went monotone with beiges and browns. We kept a luminous feel to reflect the warrior aspect. Highlighting strengthens the face without adding color, and I just focused on the brow- and cheekbones. With the runway lights, I didn’t want the whole face to look greasy.” Mane Event: “The entire collection is body conscious, so I felt that the hair should be shaped

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close to the head,” says Wella hairstylist Eugene Souleiman, who tied strands into samurai-knot-like shapes. “Thakoon designs for an intelligent and sophisticated woman who loves life. I wanted to create a sculptural style that wasn’t too precious.” Warrior Princess: 1. Nars Eyeshadow Duo in Alhambra, $32. 2. Wella System Professional Supermousse, $16. 3. Nars Orgasm Illuminator, $29. 4. Nars Lip Gloss in Ophelia, $24.

march 2010 / marie claire 223


Beauty

Rodarte

MAC makeup artist James Kaliardos. “This isn’t about being pretty or red-carpet-ready; it’s more of a gang girl with black tattoo-like lips. You can’t wear an Oscar de la Renta dress and have black tattooed lips. I mean, I love Oscar de la Renta, but Rodarte is different. It’s like they came from a menacing world that still has a royal glamour to it.” Mane Event: Aveda hairstylist Odile Gilbert wrapped black wool around braided hair to create a net effect that was inspired by Native American headdresses. “We used black because we thought it would be stronger—especially on a blonde girl. It looks more sophisticated,” says Gilbert. Dark Side: 1. MAC Lip Pencil in Beet, $13. 2. Aveda Pure Abundance Hair Potion, $23. 3. Lippmann Collection Lacquer in Funky Chunky, $35. 4. MAC Shaping Powder in Accentuate, $17.50.

rodarte

Fashion Style: Rebellious rocker Beauty Philosophy: “This season, Laura and I

wanted the hair and makeup to reflect the collection’s inspiration, which centered around the idea of burning and ruin,” says Rodarte codesigner Kate Mulleavy. “We looked at the California condor and its environment, which is a mangled, untamed landscape. The condor is very severe and stately, but at the same time, completely free and wild. We wanted to capture this with the beauty direction.” Runway interpretation: Pale skin, vampy lips, and thick, wild hair. About Face: “The clothes are handmade and very delicate but with a lot of dark detailing, so I wanted to give the girls a real tough edge,” says

Gilbert and James Kaliardos check out their handiwork.

“It’s a menacing world that still has a royal glamour.”  james — kaliardos

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Michael Kors

michael kors Fashion Style: Modern heiress Beauty Philosophy: “I wanted to play off the icy pastel colors of the clothes,” explains Michael Kors, who listened to Lady Gaga’s The Fame on a loop during his hair and makeup test. “I didn’t want the

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Native American headdresses inspired Odile Gilbert (her prep table, above) to pack hair powder and black wool into models’ braids (left).

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Michael Kors, Dick Page, and Orlando Pita at work in Kors’ showroom

Marchesa

marchesa

Beauty Philosophy: “The way you dress is an extension of yourself. The woman shouldn’t try to fit the dress,” explains Marchesa codesigner Georgina Chapman. “It’s the same with beauty. There’s nothing better than great skin. And with feather lashes as the focus on the face, we wanted a sleeker hairstyle. Hair down always feels more sexy and fun, but we didn’t want to cover up the fresh skin with a lot of hair.” Runway Interpretation: Luminous skin, dramatic lashes, and a clean updo. About Face: “Marchesa had a presentation, which is not the same as doing runway,” explains Nars makeup artist Talia Shobrook, who perfected complexions by mixing foundation with a liquid highlighter. “You’re up close to the models, so you need them to look beautiful, but you don’t need that flash boom.” And according to Chapman, a presentation can’t be too over the top: “In some shows, the makeup is strong and complements the clothes, 1 but this season’s theme [love and the opera

224 marie claire / march 2010

Feathers did double duty, accenting clothes and lashes.

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All runway: dan lecca, except rodarte: firstview.com. All still lifes: jeffrey westbrook/studio d

Fashion Style: Red-carpet siren

Madama Butterfly] was very fragile, so we wanted a muted beauty look that wouldn’t take away from the dresses. You have to be very careful about matching your makeup colors to your clothing.” Mane Event: “To contrast with the elaborate collection, we wanted something graphic for the hair,” says Fekkai stylist Renato Campora, who created a sleek, centered bun. “Slicking back the hair looks more modern and gives the face a mini lift.” The Skin-ny: 1. Fekkai Coiff Extra-Control Styling Gel, $23. 2. Fekkai Advanced Brilliant Glossing Cream, $27.50. 3. Nars Multiple in Luxor, $37. 4. Nars Larger Than Life Volumizing Mascara, $25. 5. Lippmann Collection Lacquer in Fashion, $16. Talia Shobrook shows a stylist and designers Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig her lash work (far left); Renato Campora tames flyaways (left).

For information on where to buy, see Shopping Directory.

“The way you dress is an extension of yourself. It’s the same with beauty.”

look to be too sweet, so we made sure to keep it spare—almost ’90s with a cool, graphic edge.” Runway interpretation: Bright eyes, slick hair. About Face: “Michael showed me a picture of Lady Gaga with a white lip, but I’m not a fan of white lipstick, so I made the mouth more silvery violet,” says Shiseido makeup artist Dick Page. “I also picked up pastels from the collection and amped them up—a lavender fabric became the amethyst shadow. Michael gives me the track and I remix it.” Mane Event: “The direction Michael gave me was for something graphic with a lot of shine,” says T3 stylist Orlando Pita. “He wanted to use these clear plastic headbands on every girl, and we were either going to do a ponytail or leave the hair down, but we did a ponytail last spring. I parted the hair on the right because Michael said that if he were sketching, he would draw the part on the right.” Rainbow Bright: 1. Shiseido Perfect Rouge Tender Sheer Lipstick in RS 326, $25. 2. Shiseido Luminizing Satin Eye Color in VI 399 & GR 222, $25 each. 1 2

 georgina — chapman Page paints on color (left). mARCh 2010 / marie claire 225


Beauty

Rodarte

MAC makeup artist James Kaliardos. “This isn’t about being pretty or red-carpet-ready; it’s more of a gang girl with black tattoo-like lips. You can’t wear an Oscar de la Renta dress and have black tattooed lips. I mean, I love Oscar de la Renta, but Rodarte is different. It’s like they came from a menacing world that still has a royal glamour to it.” Mane Event: Aveda hairstylist Odile Gilbert wrapped black wool around braided hair to create a net effect that was inspired by Native American headdresses. “We used black because we thought it would be stronger—especially on a blonde girl. It looks more sophisticated,” says Gilbert. Dark Side: 1. MAC Lip Pencil in Beet, $13. 2. Aveda Pure Abundance Hair Potion, $23. 3. Lippmann Collection Lacquer in Funky Chunky, $35. 4. MAC Shaping Powder in Accentuate, $17.50.

rodarte

Fashion Style: Rebellious rocker Beauty Philosophy: “This season, Laura and I

wanted the hair and makeup to reflect the collection’s inspiration, which centered around the idea of burning and ruin,” says Rodarte codesigner Kate Mulleavy. “We looked at the California condor and its environment, which is a mangled, untamed landscape. The condor is very severe and stately, but at the same time, completely free and wild. We wanted to capture this with the beauty direction.” Runway interpretation: Pale skin, vampy lips, and thick, wild hair. About Face: “The clothes are handmade and very delicate but with a lot of dark detailing, so I wanted to give the girls a real tough edge,” says

Gilbert and James Kaliardos check out their handiwork.

“It’s a menacing world that still has a royal glamour.”  james — kaliardos

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Michael Kors

michael kors Fashion Style: Modern heiress Beauty Philosophy: “I wanted to play off the icy pastel colors of the clothes,” explains Michael Kors, who listened to Lady Gaga’s The Fame on a loop during his hair and makeup test. “I didn’t want the

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Native American headdresses inspired Odile Gilbert (her prep table, above) to pack hair powder and black wool into models’ braids (left).

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Michael Kors, Dick Page, and Orlando Pita at work in Kors’ showroom

Marchesa

marchesa

Beauty Philosophy: “The way you dress is an extension of yourself. The woman shouldn’t try to fit the dress,” explains Marchesa codesigner Georgina Chapman. “It’s the same with beauty. There’s nothing better than great skin. And with feather lashes as the focus on the face, we wanted a sleeker hairstyle. Hair down always feels more sexy and fun, but we didn’t want to cover up the fresh skin with a lot of hair.” Runway Interpretation: Luminous skin, dramatic lashes, and a clean updo. About Face: “Marchesa had a presentation, which is not the same as doing runway,” explains Nars makeup artist Talia Shobrook, who perfected complexions by mixing foundation with a liquid highlighter. “You’re up close to the models, so you need them to look beautiful, but you don’t need that flash boom.” And according to Chapman, a presentation can’t be too over the top: “In some shows, the makeup is strong and complements the clothes, 1 but this season’s theme [love and the opera

224 marie claire / march 2010

Feathers did double duty, accenting clothes and lashes.

2 4

3

5

All runway: dan lecca, except rodarte: firstview.com. All still lifes: jeffrey westbrook/studio d

Fashion Style: Red-carpet siren

Madama Butterfly] was very fragile, so we wanted a muted beauty look that wouldn’t take away from the dresses. You have to be very careful about matching your makeup colors to your clothing.” Mane Event: “To contrast with the elaborate collection, we wanted something graphic for the hair,” says Fekkai stylist Renato Campora, who created a sleek, centered bun. “Slicking back the hair looks more modern and gives the face a mini lift.” The Skin-ny: 1. Fekkai Coiff Extra-Control Styling Gel, $23. 2. Fekkai Advanced Brilliant Glossing Cream, $27.50. 3. Nars Multiple in Luxor, $37. 4. Nars Larger Than Life Volumizing Mascara, $25. 5. Lippmann Collection Lacquer in Fashion, $16. Talia Shobrook shows a stylist and designers Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig her lash work (far left); Renato Campora tames flyaways (left).

For information on where to buy, see Shopping Directory.

“The way you dress is an extension of yourself. It’s the same with beauty.”

look to be too sweet, so we made sure to keep it spare—almost ’90s with a cool, graphic edge.” Runway interpretation: Bright eyes, slick hair. About Face: “Michael showed me a picture of Lady Gaga with a white lip, but I’m not a fan of white lipstick, so I made the mouth more silvery violet,” says Shiseido makeup artist Dick Page. “I also picked up pastels from the collection and amped them up—a lavender fabric became the amethyst shadow. Michael gives me the track and I remix it.” Mane Event: “The direction Michael gave me was for something graphic with a lot of shine,” says T3 stylist Orlando Pita. “He wanted to use these clear plastic headbands on every girl, and we were either going to do a ponytail or leave the hair down, but we did a ponytail last spring. I parted the hair on the right because Michael said that if he were sketching, he would draw the part on the right.” Rainbow Bright: 1. Shiseido Perfect Rouge Tender Sheer Lipstick in RS 326, $25. 2. Shiseido Luminizing Satin Eye Color in VI 399 & GR 222, $25 each. 1 2

 georgina — chapman Page paints on color (left). mARCh 2010 / marie claire 225


Beauty

TRESS Management Customize your primping routine with these pro tips tailored to your hair type By Lizzie Dunlap “For years, women have abused their hair by choosing products based on their desired final look—not their natural hair type,” says Jeni Thomas, Ph.D. and senior scientist for Pantene. This means your strands get only a fraction of the attention (and ingredients) they need. From fine and straight to coarse and curly, each texture is so structurally varied that it requires its own products and stylers. Guided by Thomas—and based on her vast research—Pantene recently overhauled its entire line to address specific follicular concerns. Here, we grill a score of top stylists on how to best work with the hair you have.

Backstage, the end look is the same, but each model’s styling needs are unique.

FINE THE WASH: “Product buildup means greasier scalps and eventually limper hair,” notes Thomas. Wash away residue daily with a deepcleansing shampoo and repair split ends with a light conditioner. THE STYLERS: Choose mousses and gels with vitamins that will strengthen weaker fibers. Avoid rich, silicone-heavy serums and maintain staying power with a flexible-hold hairspray. THE TOOLS: For instant volume, dial back abrasive back-combing and do the bulk of your styling with hot tools. “You can fake natural

waves by using two differently sized curling irons,” notes NYC-based hair guru Ric Pipino, who styles Naomi Watts and Diane Kruger. Finger-tousling is best for delicate strands, but a metal barrel brush heats up quickly when blowdrying to give hair more body. THE CUT: “Go for ’70s glamour with a chic Anne Hathaway shoulderlength style,” recommends Pantene stylist Danilo, who counts the Alice in Wonderland star and Gwen Stefani as regular clients. Most important for shorter coifs: regular trims to prevent limp layers. MC Recommends:

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Pantene Pro-V Flat to Volume Shampoo and Conditioner, $3.99 each; Neutrogena Triple Renewal Body Boosting Foam, $6.99; L’Oréal Paris Glossy Style Volume Gel, $4.99; Blow Blow Out Hair Spray, $19.75; Denman Squargonomics Brush, $15; T3 Twirl 11⁄4" Curling Iron, $119.

still lifes: jeffrey westbrook/studio d. photos, from top: greg kessler, imaxtree.com

“Fine hair is made up of half the proteins of thicker textures,” says Thomas. But in the quest for added oomph, most fine-haired women overdo it with styling aids, causing their slight strands to fall flat under the added weight.


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MC Recommends: John Frieda FrizzEase Smooth Start Shampoo and Conditioner, $5.49 each; Aveeno Nourish + Style Smoothing Crème, $6.49; Aveda Light Elements Texturizing Creme, $24; Coppola Curved Vent Brush, $30; Remington Frizz Therapy Iron, $50.

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MEDIUM TO THICK “Medium and thick hair absorb 40 percent more water than other types,” says Thomas. This means frizz in humid climates and scorched ends in dry ones. THE WASH: “Humidity isn’t the only culprit behind frizzy hair. Entering and exiting humid environments also causes hard-to-handle volume and wispies,” says Danilo. Jump-start your fight on frizz with moisturizing shampoos and conditioners—this type of hair absorbs nutrients most efficiently when wet. THE STYLERS: On the flip side, medium and thick hair is also most fragile when waterlogged. Protect weak cuticles—which make up the scale-like outermost layer of the hair

shaft—from heat-styling with heavy smoothing creams containing ingredients like amino acids that help weigh down flyaways. THE TOOLS: “Paddle brushes do wonders for unruly hair,” notes Pipino. Look for an ionic flatiron with ceramic plates to bond broken cuticles back near the hair shaft. THE CUT: Opt for long layers to get even fullness, but avoid thinning shears. “Most stylists use these improperly and splice split ends, causing more frizz,” warns Pipino.

DAMAGED THE WASH: “Chemically treated hair doesn’t grab onto conditioners like regular hair because it loses more than 70 percent of its outer-ingredientabsorbing layer during processing,” says Thomas. Cleanse and condition with vitamin- and mineral-fortified products that will repair this barrier and prevent color fading. THE STYLERS: “A recent study just found that the eye is drawn to the shiniest spot on a person’s hair. This is bad news for women with dull, dyed hair,” says Danilo. Use heat-

MC Recommends: Dove Intensive Repair Shampoo and Conditioner, $3.76 each; Kérastase Chronologiste Kit, $145; Samy Heat Guard Protection Spray, $4.99; Goody Tourmaline Brush, $6.99; Conair Infiniti Tourmaline Ceramic Ionic Hair Styler, $34.99. 192 marie claire / may 2010

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protective styling products daily— environmental stresses, like the sun, also fry fibers. Light serums offer a quick fix for strands lacking shine. THE TOOLS: “Tourmaline blowdryers are much kinder to your hair because they drastically reduce drying time,” notes Danilo. Protect roots by holding the dryer six inches from the scalp. THE CUT: “Thanks to Lady Gaga, geometric cuts are making a big comeback,” says Pipino. “These chic bobs work well on stressed-out hair that’s in need of a trim.”

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still lifes: jeffrey westbrook/studio d. photos, from top: greg kessler, firstview.com

“More than 60 percent of women in the U.S. color their hair,” says Thomas. “This strips the hair’s protective layers.” Translation: Dyed locks need lots of TLC.


Beauty

CURLY “Every turn in a curl is a potential point of breakage,” says Thomas. Protect ringlets in these tight spots, and you’ll prevent coarser textures in the future. THE WASH: Curly hair tends to be drier than straight hair because oil doesn’t slip down the strands as easily. This translates to fewer weekly washings (think once every three or four days) and more protein-packed products. Weekly conditioning masks will also help soothe flaky scalps. THE STYLERS: “The curlier the hair is, the more it meshes together to catch ingredients,” says Thomas, “so application is key.” Light gels and serums work well combed through damp coils, while curl-defining sprays spritzed on the underside of hair

MC Recommends: Fekkai Brilliant Glossing Shampoo and Conditioner, $35 each; Ric Pipino Curl-Me Curl Enhancer Gel, $21; Pantene Pro-V Deep Moisturizing Treatment for Curly Hair, $5.99; HairArt H-3000 Ionic Comb, $7.50; Brazilian Heat 11⁄2" Flat Iron, $80.

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COARSE & CURLY

offer a crunch-free finish. THE TOOLS: “A detangling comb is your best friend,” says Danilo. “I prefer to style hair with a lot of volume, and then tone down the look with a cuticle-smoothing tourmaline hot tool. I also apply finishing creams with my fingers to avoid brush-induced breakage.” THE CUT: “Don’t choose a haircut that only works with straight hair,” says Pipino. Ask your stylist to cut your strands in their natural coiled state or look for a salon that specializes in textured hair.

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MC exclusive Win a personalized Pantene hair kit before the line hits shelves next month at marieclaire.com.

THE WASH: Hydration is key for these thirsty locks. Skip regular conditioners in favor of leave-ins, and use a hydrating mask with ingredients like shea or cocoa butter at least once a week. THE STYLERS: “I tell clients with straightened hair to sleep on a silk pillowcase to reduce breakage,” says Ursula Stephen, who gets Paula Patton red-carpet-ready. Women with salon-created styles can use repairing wrap lotions, while those with natural hair should treat

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194 marie claire / may 2010

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themselves to monthly at-home scalp conditioners and opt for snagfree seamless combs. THE TOOLS: “You don’t need intense heat every day, so choose an iron with a gauge on it,” says Stephen. Thinner, rounded flatirons are best to smooth hair at the root. THE CUT: “Regardless of your length, volume, or texture, try a featureenhancing architectural cut for summer,” says Stephen, who also creates Rihanna’s iconic styles.

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MC Recommends: Hair Rules Daily Cleansing Cream, $32, and Leave-In Conditioner, $20; Softsheen-Carson Roots of Nature Healing Thickening Cream, $6.99; Motions Foaming Wrap Lotion, $3.99; Miss Jessie’s Quick Curls, $32; Macadamia Natural Oil Comb, $12; Sultra Half-Inch Iron, $225.

For information on where to buy, see Shopping Directory.

still lifes: jeffrey westbrook/studio d. photos: gorunway.com

“Coarse, curly hair can have 12 times as many twists as regular curly hair,” says Thomas, meaning that much more breakage. Thicker hair fibers and tight curls also trap oils at the roots, leaving some scalps dry and itchy.


Beauty 2

MC Master Class:

1

Happy Feet

How to get a spa-quality pedicure—at home

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By Lizzie Dunlap

“It was the big handbag, then the stiletto, and now the sandal is the accessory,” says Elisa Ferri, lead nail tech for the Marc Jacobs and Ralph Lauren shows. “Even if you don’t want a bright pedicure, you need to keep your feet moisturized so cracks and flakes don’t distract from your fabulous shoes.” Whether you’re rocking Lanvin’s bejeweled spikes or Christian Louboutin’s gussied-up gladiators, Ferri and polish queen Essie Weingarten help you ace your next at-home pedi just in time for sandal weather.

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Remember to treat your feet as you do your legs—apply SPF every morning.

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—Elisa Ferri

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STEP 1

First things first—pretty toes are hair-free. Depilatories are a faster, longer-lasting, and painless alternative to tweezing or waxing. Next, soften tough heels in a mineral sea salt soak. “In a pinch, liquid dish soap also removes dirt and makes cuticles more pliable,” says Ferri. Pat one foot dry—letting the other soak longer—and slough away calluses with an emery board or pumice stone. 170 marie claire / june 2010

MC Recommends: 1. Yves Saint Laurent Long-Lasting Nail Lacquer in Mauve Silk, $20. 2. Borghese Nail Lacquer in Berry Confezione, $8. 3. MAC Nail Lacquer in Scorcher, $12. 4. Wet n Wild MegaLast Nail Color in Club Havana, $1.99. 5. Sally Hansen Insta-Dri Nail Color in Lickety-Split Lime, $4.95. 6. Chanel Le Vernis in Mistral, $23. 7. Essie Nail Polish in BBF Best Boyfriend, $8. 8. Rimmel London Pro Nail Enamel in Posh Pink, $3.99. 9. OPI Nail Lacquer in Red My Fortune Cookie, $8.50. 10. Estée Lauder Nail Lacquer in Wild Orchid, $18. 11. China Glaze Nail Lacquer in Yellow Polka Dot Bikini, $6.50.

jeffrey westbrook/studio d

PREP WORK


Beauty

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Applying cuticle oil to the base of your nails every night will help pedicures last up to two weeks. —Essie Weingarten

STEP 2

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“Don’t use anything more abrasive, like a metal tool,” warns Weingarten, “and avoid infection by not exfoliating any blisters, corns, or bunions.” Soak the scrubbed foot in a clean bath while working on the other and dab a cotton ball soaked with hydrogen peroxide on any blisters after feet have been washed.

TAKING SHAPE

On dry feet, apply cuticle oil to the base of the nail—Ferri swears by olive oil as a substitute—and push back cuticles with an orangewood stick. “Only cut cuticles [with a cuticle trimmer] if they look like they’re about to tear the skin,” says Ferri. File away extra length with an emery board, getting nails as short as possible without causing discomfort. Keep the shape of the nail square and only use a clipper if nails are excessively long, as unnecessary cutting can cause brittle nails to split. “Don’t round the corners, because this is where the strength of the nail comes from,” says Weingarten. “A lot of people get ingrowns from trying to file the sides.”

MC Recommends: Clarins Foot Beauty Treatment Cream, $25; CND SpaPedicure Marine Salt Scrub, $41.90.

STEP 3

LACQUERED UP

hand, then move to the other. Finally, fix mistakes with a corrector pen or, after the lacquer has dried, by scraping away any excess in the shower.

STEP 4

PERFECT HUE

“When in doubt, choose coral,” says Ferri. The blue and yellow undertones complement fair and warm skin alike. “Your fingers and toes don’t need to match, but they should be somewhat complementary shades,” notes Weingarten. If you opt for a neon purple to play off your Kool-Aid-colored espadrilles, choose a ladylike lavender or neutral mauve for your hands. MC Recommends: OPI Shiner XL File, $2.50; Revlon Pedi-Expert Shower Kit, $9.99.

jeffrey westbrook/studio d

From moisturizing to ridge-reducing formulas, “the right basecoat can troubleshoot a lot of nail pigmentation and texture problems,” says Weingarten. Apply two coats of your shade of choice before finishing with a topcoat—preferably one with UV filters to prevent fading. Allowing two minutes between each step will ensure a streak-free application and expedite overall drying. To minimize the chance of smudging, apply polish first to the foot opposite your dominant


Beauty

eye contact

Undereye bags, dark circles, and crow’s-feet—defy these early signs of aging with the right eye cream and treatment By Ning Chao

174 marie claire / june 2010

Counting Crows

Wearing sunglasses prevents squinting, which causes crow’s-feet, explains Dr. Robert Grant, plastic surgeon– in-chief at New York-Presbyterian Hospital/Weill Cornell Medical Center. Sunscreen will also help, but the reason that you suddenly start to see fine lines in your late 20s and early 30s happens under your skin. “Once your body starts to decrease the amount of sebum it produces, you need to moisturize to keep the outermost keratin layer— our natural sun protection factor—intact,” explains Grant. “If you allow your skin to dry out, it will get more sun damage.” But before you start slathering on heavy eye balms that can clog pores and cause bumps, first try a lightweight gel. If you already have noticeable crow’s-feet, vitamin A–derived retinols can help smooth them out by boosting collagen production in the area. Grant likes over-thecounter retinols (in contrast to stronger, prescription retinoids) because they’re less drying and easier to tolerate. And for those who are especially expressive, Botox can help soften your smile lines. A topical formula is currently in FDA trials for usage around the eyes, but approval is still years away.

MC Recommends: Vichy LiftActiv Retinol HA Eyes, $39.50; RoC Brilliance Eye Beautifier duo, $49.99.

still lifes: jeffrey westbrook/studio d and stuart tyson/studio d. top: image source/getty images

When should you start using eye cream? Home to the thinnest skin on your body, the eye area starts to show signs of wear and tear by your 20s. Overtime in the office, that extra glass of wine, and even smiling all conspire to speed up the aging process. The eyes are also the first place people look on your face. But before you start avoiding everyone’s gaze, try these eye-opening solutions.


Beauty Baggage Handling

MC Recommends: Bremenn Research Labs Upper Eyelid Lifter, $59; Neutrogena Clinical Eye Lift Contouring Treatment duo, $39.99.

The biggest reason for puffiness around the eyes is allergies, according to Cambridge, Massachusetts, dermatologist Dr. Ranella Hirsch. And rubbing will only thicken the skin and cause darkening, especially in pale complexions. “When you hear on the news that pollen counts are up, take an over-thecounter antihistamine for two or three weeks and you’ll prevent most swelling,” Hirsch says. For additional soothing, “de-puff with an eye roller. Keep it in the fridge, because the cooling effect really goes a long way.” If you’re past your early 30s and have tried the antiallergy approach without success, your heavy baggage could be caused by gravity, not the change in seasons. “When you’re young, the fat below your eyes lives in a collagen baggie. But as you get older, the bag is weakened because you’re not producing as much collagen and the fat herniates into a hound-dog look,” says Hirsch, who recommends using an injectable filler (she prefers Restylane) to firm the skin and hold up the fat pad. “For less than $500, you can get real results that last 12 to 15 months. You don’t need much product, and it can take years off of your face,” she says. A less invasive alternative is using an eye cream with peptides. “Peptides are the building blocks of the skin’s protein,” explains Hirsch. Applying them topically gives skin the ingredients to rebuild and hold the fat pad in place.

“For less than $500, you can get real results that last 12 to 15 months.”—dr. ranella hirsch

Bright Idea There are typically two causes of dark circles: an actual darkening of the skin due to genetics and sun damage, or shadows created from sunken valleys above the cheekbones. For both problems, New York City dermatologist Dr. David Rosenberg recommends injecting fat or Restylane to plump the hollowness (cost: about $4,000 for potentially permanent fat and about $1,500 for Restylane, which lasts up to two years). And since the skin here is almost transparent, “fat bleaches out the area since it’s pure white.” Brightening formulas can also even the overall skin tone but must be combined with daily sunscreen use to prevent further darkening. Hirsch suggests layering antioxidant lycopene under sunscreen for extra protection. 176 marie claire / june 2010

MC Recommends: Physicians Formula Mineral Wear 3-in-1 Talc-Free Correcting Concealer, $8.95; La Prairie White Caviar Illuminating Eye Serum, $250.

Top Shelf

As collagen thins and skin loses elasticity, the upper eyelids can droop, creating what Rosenberg calls “hooding.” While applying creams to the upper lids was once a no-no, new formulas specifically target this sagging area, tightening with caffeine or promoting collagen production with peptides. However, if you’re prone to dry skin, Hirsch cautions against caffeine-based creams because they dehydrate in order to de-puff and firm. “You’re good for two hours, but then you look like death,” she says. If topical creams aren’t enough for your tired-looking lids, Rosenberg suggests two surgical options: trimming away the excess skin at the lashline or an endoscopic brow-lift (cost: $2,000 to $7,000 for each procedure). With gravity’s pull, eyebrows fall as we get older, and “as the brow gets lower, the more skin droops,” Rosenberg says. Raising the brow with tiny hairline incisions lifts the upper eyelid skin, making eyes appear more open and youthful. “It’s a 30-minute procedure, and the results last for a decade.” Now that’s foresight. For information on where to buy, see Shopping Directory.

still lifes: stuart tyson/studio d

MC Recommends: Visine All Day Eye Itch Relief, $12.99; Kinerase Restructure Firming Eye Cream, $55; Olay Regenerist Anti-Aging Eye Roller, $22.99.


Beauty

Good in Red I

f I were a superhero, red lipstick

would be my cape. With it, I feel confident, proud, empowered. Without it, I’m invisible. My romance with red started when I was 11. Growing up in Melbourne, Australia, with just one older brother, I was a somewhat lonely child. Pale and petite, I worshipped my glamorous mother and desperately wanted to be grown-up. Then I discovered lipstick. It was a blood-red Biba shade from my mother’s vanity, and it made me feel instantly feminine. Well, as womanly as one can be at 11. 204 marie claire / October 2008

The moment I finished high school, I started wearing red exclusively. I rushed out and bought a tube of Helena Rubinstein Autumn Red—a perfect, rich, brick hue that was creamy and subtly scented with French perfume. It symbolized freedom and my first opportunity to stake a claim to womanhood. I felt such a surge wearing it that I started my own lipstick brand—called Poppy, naturally—just six months later. And for the next decade, I traveled the globe, shilling my tubes and pots. Being that this was the early ’90s, the genesis of the lip-gloss era, the

Lipstick 101 In general, fair coloring looks best with a bright, yellow-based red; bluebased, pinky reds suit darker skin and hair. Red lipstick is best applied straight from the tube on smooth, bare lips. Blot with a tissue, then apply a dab more. If you can’t find a lip liner that matches your lipstick exactly, then opt for some concealer around the outside of the lips prior to application. To avoid looking like you’ve just walked off a stage (or out of the ’80s), always pair bold red lips with little or no eye makeup.

KARIV/MONDADORI SYNDICATION

Naked without her ruby lipstick, beauty queen Poppy King mouths off about the look that’s changed her life


Club Red

LUCILLE BALL’s famous coif could only be paired with equally showstopping lips.

She wore Chanel No. 5 to bed, but screen siren MARILYN MONROE chose ruby lipstick for all other occasions. ELIZABETH TAYLOR graduated to red after marrying and divorcing hotelier Nicky Hilton.

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brand became best known for its glosses, despite my fierce personal loyalty to lipstick. I never did anything public—give a speech, have a business meeting, board an airplane—without my signature red. When I shut down my line and moved to New York 12 years later, it was this devotion to red lipstick that helped me establish a community: Women—many of whom I now call friends—would approach me asking about the shade; children would smile at me; men would holler, “Work those red lips, gorgeous!”; shopkeepers and restaurant owners would remember me for my five-alarm pout. In some circles, people were more familiar

I love all red-lipstick wearers. It’s like we belong to a club, smiling at each other knowingly when we pass.”

Whether channeling Monroe or matching a kabbalah bracelet, MADONNA chooses rouge.

with my Lipstick Queen moniker (the name of my current lip-product line) than with my actual first name. While this did wonders for my business, relationships were a different story. I could always trust that the men attracted to red lips weren’t afraid of a woman’s sexuality; rather, they encouraged it. But it’s a love/ hate dynamic. One boyfriend, accustomed to a lipstick-free smooch before our outings, knew things were over when I opened my front door one afternoon, already clad in my red. And I’m never surprised when the same

FLO JO proved red and gold were a winning combo, sporting her signature lips and nails at the 1988 Olympics. From grunge girl to glam icon, GWEN STEFANI shows off the versatility of a carmine power pout.

“I wear Red Sinner, a high-pigment Chinese-lantern red, at least 300 days of the year. And when I’m feeling introverted, when I want to disappear into the crowd, I go for sheer gloss,” says King (above).

men who initially adored the rouge ask me to stop wearing it as things get serious; they don’t appreciate the attention it draws. For me, it’s a nobrainer at that point: Lose the man, keep the lipstick. Regardless of the changes in my love life, my work, my family, and even the hemisphere where I choose to live, red lipstick has never disappointed. It has been my constant. Wearing it has helped me find the courage to do many things that I never knew I was capable of, from starting my own businesses to writing books. Yet more important than the big stuff, this bold stroke has shown me that it’s in pursuing simple everyday actions that true heroics can be found. Ultimately, red lipstick is to women what sports cars are to men: an icon of lust that leaves them asking, Can I pull it off? To which I say, Of course you can.

Crimson Kiss 1 Clarins Lip Colour Tint in Watermelon 2 Lipstick Queen Red Sinner 3 Nars Lipstick in Jungle Red 4 Chanel Rouge Hydrabase Creme in Fire 5 Lipstick Queen Medieval 6 MAC Lipstick in Russian Red 7 Estée Lauder Hydra Lustre Lipstick in Rich Red 8 Wet n Wild in Hot Red

The real reason DITA VON TEESE and Marilyn Manson broke up? Clashing lipstick colors. Pop star CHRISTINA AGUILERA traded in the Dirrty act for ladylike platinum hair and a scarlet smile. 206 marie claire / october 2008

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For information on where to buy, see Shopping Directory.

still lifes: Joshua Janke/Studio D, EXCEPT 1&2: JEFFREY WESTBROOK/STUDIO D. KING: PHOTO, HAIR, MAKEUP: MICHAEL ANGELO FOR WONDERLAND BEAUTY PARLOR. CLUB RED, FROM TOP: M. OCHS ARCHIVES/GETTY IMAGES, J. SCIULLI/WIREIMAGE.COM, N. PETERS COLLECTION, S. GRANITZ/WIREIMAGE.COM, HULTON ARCHIVE/GETTY IMAGES, J. SHEARER/WIREIMAGE.COM, T. DUFFY/GETTY IMAGES, J. MCCARTHY/WIREIMAGE.COM

Beauty


Beauty

Where you live affects your looks. Our experts serve up the best winter skincare tips from sea to shining sea By Lizzie Dunlap

CLIMATE CONTROL still lifes: jeffrey westbrook/studio d. top: carter smith/art+commerce

CONDITIONS: COLD & DRY Consider it a perfect storm: Low humidity, blustery winds, and plummeting temperatures team up with excessive indoor heating to cause severely dry skin during winter months for denizens of the Northeast and Midwest. These factors wear down the top layer of the skin that keeps moisture in, resulting in flakes, cracks, and irritation on the face and body. For oily, normal, and combination skin types, try products with humectants like glycerin and alpha hydroxy acids to draw in water from the air. “If the skin’s extremely parched,” says Manhattan- and Miami-based dermatologist

Dr. Fredric Brandt, “use products with occlusive moisturizers like petrolatum that trap moisture in, or emollients like palm oil that help restore the hydration barrier.” If you prefer nongreasy textures, look for oil-free formulas. Tracie Martyn, a New York facialist, recommends sloughing away dull skin daily with an enzyme exfoliator or, for more sensitive skin, a moisturizing cleanser. “The cold makes blood 3 vessels contract, which slows cell turnover and blocks moisture from reaching the skin.”

MC Recommends: 1. Lierac Paris Crème Mésolift, $54. 2. Aveeno Ultra-Calming Daily Moisturizer SPF 30, $14.99. 3. Clinique Deep Comfort Hand and Cuticle Cream, $17.50. 4. Jurlique Soothing Cleansing Lotion, $40.

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4 LOCAL GETAWAY Mountain View Grand Resort & Spa, Whitefield, NH (mountainviewgrand.com) SKIN-DULGENCE The Med Skin Rescue Facial ($150 for 80 minutes) uses neroli oil and gentle massage to increase cell renewal and keep redness at bay.

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december 2009 / marie claire 181


Beauty

MC Recommends: 1. Origins Drink Up Intensive Overnight Mask, $21. 2. Clarins Multi-Active Day Early Wrinkle Correcting Lotion SPF 15, $54. 3. L’Oréal Paris Revitalift 24-Hour Eye Repair Duo, $19.99. 4. First Aid Beauty Intense Therapy Anti-Redness Serum, $34.

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In coastal areas like the Pacific Northwest and Northeastern shoreline, windburn is the chief culprit for chapped, reddened skin. Dr. Jennifer Linder, a clinical instructor of dermatology at the University of California, San Francisco, warns, “In these regions, skin can start to develop a sallow quality because the wind dries out the top layer and traps the oilier lower layers, leading to clogged pores and breakouts.” To combat this, use a retinol to increase cell turnover and opt for silk accessories when bundling up. “Most people have slight allergic reactions to wool scarves, and silk is just as warm and much gentler on the skin,” Linder says. Marywynn Ryan, owner of the Skin by Marywynn spa in Portland, OR, encourages her clients to get monthly exfoliating facials and seal the skin afterward with products containing ceramides or linoleic acid, which help create a barrier against the elements. At the very least, 182 marie claire / december 2009

she suggests starting the season with a facial in October and getting another one in January or February. Weekly at-home calming masques containing soothing ingredients like avocado oil, green tea, and calendula help reduce signs of inflammation, while daily applications of lip balm and eye cream with sun protection repair these more sensitive, exposed areas.

LOCAL GETAWAY The Spa at The Resort at The Mountain, Welches, OR (theresort.com) SKIN-DULGENCE The Purifying Green Tea Facial ($108 for 50 minutes) includes massage and an antioxidantrich mask, which blocks free radicals while removing grime and toxins— the perfect treat after a day of skiing at nearby Mt. Hood.

still lifes: jeffrey westbrook/studio d. top: sic/frederic lucano/valerie massei

CONDITIONS: COLD & DAMP


Beauty CONDITIONS: HOT & HUMID The trick to prepping skin in perennially humid, hot regions like the Southeast and Hawaii is to adjust your antiaging routine as the temperature and humidity levels drop. “People who can use retinoids in the summer because the air is damper might need to mix them with moisturizers in the winter to prevent overdrying,” explains Brandt. Tammy Fender, a Palm Beach, FL-based aesthetician, emphasizes the need to tone skin in such naturally moist environments. “Most cleansers are alkaline and disrupt the acid balance of the skin, allowing natural hydration to escape,” she says. Use an alcohol-free toner in the morning to restore the skin’s proper pH balance, and spritz your face and neck with a toner mist containing a calming ingredi2 ent, like chamomile, throughout the day. 1

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SKIN-DULGENCE The Perfecting Plant Peel ($50 for 15 minutes), an Argan leaf extract and aloe-vera-infused peel, mimics the skin-brightening benefits of a 30 percent glycolic peel—and includes a scalp or foot massage to pass the time.

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CONDITIONS: HOT & DRY MC Recommends: 1. DDF Advanced Micro-Exfoliation Cleanser, $46. 2. Burt’s Bees Peppermint Foot Lotion, $9. 3. Olay Regenerist UV Defense Regenerating Lotion SPF 50, $29.99.

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Seasonal temperatures may not shift significantly in the desert, but it’s still important to alter hydrating and cleansing routines as the mercury takes a slight dip. To do this, Linder, who also practices in Scottsdale, AZ, stresses the importance of moisturizing with products containing humectants like hyaluronic acid to repair the skin’s overbaked barrier. “But stay away from petrolatum and other comedogenic moisturizers that can cause breakouts,” she warns. Daily UV protection is also a must yearround, even indoors. “Many of my patients don’t realize UVA rays penetrate glass,” says Linder. Antioxidant-rich creams and serums help combat the free-radical damage done by sun exposure. LOCAL GETAWAY Lake Austin Spa And also hydrate from within. Resort, Austin, TX (lakeaustin.com) “The sun and lack of humidity SKIN-DULGENCE The Age Arresting dehydrate the body, as well Facial ($250 for 80 minutes) repairs as the skin,” adds Fender. UV damage with collagen-boosting blueberry and beech tree extracts, “Consume a lot of water, essential and smooths out fine lines while fatty acids, and fish oils to reduce hydrating the skin. the appearance of wrinkles.”

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For information on where to buy, see Shopping Directory.

still lifes: jeffrey westbrook/studio d. photos, from top: sarah maingot/trunkarchive.com, sic/donja pitsch/helene roule

LOCAL GETAWAY The Palms Spa-Aveda, The Palms Hotel, Miami (thepalmshotel.com)

MC Recommends: 1. Neutrogena Ageless Restoratives Skin Renewal Moisture SPF 30, $19.99. 2. Anew Reversalist Renewal Serum, $44. 3. Aveda Green Science Replenishing Toner, $39. 4. Bioré Skin Preservation Even Smoother Microderm Exfoliator, $14.99.


Beauty

Over 14 million Americans suffer from rosacea— and the number of cases is steadily rising. Gretchen Voss reports on her own battle with the misunderstood, chronic skin condition 170 marie claire / august 2009

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lanked by my Duke buddies, bubbly Bellini in hand, I was lounging on a terrace chaise under a sublime Carolina blue sky. And then I felt it: The Flush. First, little trickles of warmth streaming across my cheeks, and suddenly, a full crimson tide crashing over my face, staining everything in its wake ruby red. I was powerless to stop it. The sun and the booze were delicious provocateurs for my newly diagnosed skin disease: rosacea. And everyone at

the reunion—including the cool boys sipping cold brew whom I used to party with 15 years ago—could see it. I never felt the need to hide my face back when I was a Blue Devil. I had gorgeous skin. Or, more accurately, normal skin—the kind you abuse (by crashing with your makeup on) and take for granted (since it looks the same the next day, anyway). But a few years ago, I noticed my dermis taking on the high color of an endurance athlete

rennio maifredi/trunkarchive.com

RED IN THE FACE


Beauty

TOOLS TO CALM AND COOL YOUR COMPLEXION Clinique Redness Solutions Daily Protective Base SPF 15, $17.50; Pevonia Ligne Rose Concentrate, $67.50; Avène Diroséal Anti-Redness Skincare Lotion, $44; Pyratine XR Crème, $138; Obagi Medical RosaClear System Gentle Cleanser, $36; B. Kamins Rosacea Moisturizer SPF 15, $71; Everyday Minerals Mint Color Correcting Concealer, $8.

halted the disease’s progressive march (read: got rid of the unsightly red bumps). But because there are concerns about long-term antibiotic use and bacterial resistance, I’ll probably switch to Oracea, a new oral anti-inflammatory drug that is the first to be FDA approved specifically for treating rosacea. In clinical trials, it zapped papules and pustules without contributing to antibiotic or bacterial resistance, which is key, because no

“I know it sounds petty, but the fact that I have to wear this disease on my face is devastating.” are sun exposure, emotional stress, hot weather, alcohol, and spicy food.” Triggers—which stress the body, stimulating the sympathetic nervous system and activating the flushing—vary widely. I’ve found that steaming baths, intense exercise, hot weather, and white wine—all of which serve as my Prozac—instantly inflame my face. Sadly, even if I don’t go all trigger-happy, my skin’s new normal state is a smoldering pink. I know it sounds petty, but the fact that I have to wear this disease on my face, that I may never have a mug that appears normal without the aid of drugs and cosmetics, is devastating. While rosacea can’t be cured, it can be managed. I’m taking the antibiotic tetracycline—the same pills gobbled by teens plagued with cystic acne—coupled with metronidazole gel, which immediately 172 marie claire / august 2009

one knows how long my case will last. But the available pills and potions don’t do much to put out the fiery redness. Laser therapy is a final option, but because it’s expensive, temporary, and not guaranteed to work, my dermatologist doesn’t recommend it for me. Yet. “It’s just an unpredictable disease,” explains Wolf. “Hopefully, with early treatment and active avoidance of the triggers, the rosacea won’t get worse. It can get better and then come back again. It can go away entirely. There is no guarantee; that’s the problem with a chronic disease.” And that’s what’s so diabolical about rosacea: In an era of silicone and botulism and lab-made collagen, where every cosmetic ailment, real and imagined, is curable, this is a disfigurement with no easy fix. “Rosacea is an embarrassing disease,” says Dr. Ted Grossbart, a clinical psychol-

ogist and assistant clinical professor of psychology at Harvard Medical School who is a leading practitioner in the emerging field of psychodermatology. He works with rosacea patients using techniques such as relaxation, imaging, self-hypnosis, and focused psychotherapy around skin triggers. “If you’re going nuts, your skin goes nuts,” he explains of his mind-body approach. “Often people can use those techniques and not only reduce the emotional impact of their rosacea, but also control their physiology and reduce the actual symptoms. If stress is a major trigger, then it would make sense that learning how to protect your body from stress would let you get a handle on your skin.” The real hope for my face’s future lies in some recent groundbreaking investigation into the causes of the disease. “Inflammation, everybody agrees, is the key culprit in rosacea,” says Wolf. “The most interesting research now is looking at what might cause this inflammation.” Turns out, the skin produces a group of chemicals called cathelicidin peptides that defend the skin against infection; in rosacea patients, these antimicrobial peptides are abnormal and activate inflammation in the body. Multiple drugs that inhibit the production of these abnormal peptides are now being tested. “Yes, it’s promising,” says Wolf. “And it’s a long way from a cure. But who knows?” Gretchen Voss is a Marie Claire contributing editor. She wrote about wives of white-collar criminals in our July issue.

For information on where to buy, see Shopping Directory.

still lifes: jeffrey westbrook/studio d

post-workout. My dermatologist—my former dermatologist—blew me off. I was being vain, said the crunchy doc, and simply needed to accept this ruddy face as my own. Her prescription: green-tinted foundation. But as time passed, the cherry crush burned brighter. And then, a few months before my college reunion (of course), I noticed that a smattering of bumps—like zits but without the pus— joined the party on my cheeks. When my new derm diagnosed rosacea, I was relieved. Ha! I thought, I knew I didn’t have to accept being red in the face. But then he broke the bad news: There is no cure for this widespread, poorly understood, underdiagnosed condition that more than 14 million Americans—mostly women of Northern and Eastern European descent between the ages of 30 and 60—have. No one, he said, knows what causes the chronic inflammatory disorder in which microvessels dilate, causing patchy red areas on the face and, eventually, acnelike bumps. (Severe cases can also include chronic eye irritation, thickened skin, and rhinophyma, as terrifyingly illustrated by the bulbous nose of W.C. Fields.) “We don’t know what causes rosacea, but we do know what makes it worse,” says Dr. John Wolf, chairman of dermatology at Baylor College of Medicine in Houston. “The most common triggers


Beauty

MC Master Class A step-by-step tutorial for easy smoky eyes, from subtle shading to full-on flames By Ning Chao

Smoke Signals

“Smoky eyes look great on everyone and are easy to create yourself because they don’t require perfection,” explains celebrity makeup artist Sam Fine, who readies Tyra Banks, Iman, and Vanessa Williams for the red carpet. Whether it’s just some smudged liner on the upper and lower lids or glamorous “shadows that gradate into a rainbow of color around the eye,” Fine teaches us how to apply the sultry like a pro. LEVEL 1

The simplest smoky eye is just a bit of smudged pencil, drawn as close to the lashes as possible. “As long as there’s black liner on the inner rims of the eyes, I call that smoky,” says Fine, who recommends waxy kohl pencils for a smooth application. “The color can be any dark shade—even electric blue—but it should be strongest at the lashlines, then softly feather out. The inner rims of the eyes need to be black for intensity—it makes the lashes look blacker and the whites of the eyes brighter.”

MC Recommends: L’Oréal Le Kohl Duo Pencil in Black/Vanilla, $10.95; Benefit Creaseless Cream Shadow/Liner in Strut, $19. 186 marie claire / december 2009

LEVEL 2

Shadow Movements

Easy to blend and diffuse, powder shadows are the perfect tool for creating quick smokiness and the best option for crepey eyelids. “Pencil settles into fine lines because it’s waxy, while powders last longer and help set the color,” explains Fine. “Start applying shadow near the lashline, then blend out. Just make sure the shadow passes the creases. When you open your eye, it shouldn’t just be a black eye, like Uncle Fester from The Addams Family. You want the lid to be saturated with color.”

MC Recommends: JK I-Design Eye Color in 09 Backstage, $16.

still lifes: jeffrey westbrook/studio d. top: © Sylvie Benoit/Marie Claire/IPC + Syndication. backstage: jason lloyd evans

Basic Black


Beauty LEVEL 3

Underworld

“If you don’t have color below the eye, it’s just a smoky lid,” insists Fine. “The early ’90s were all about dark lids and nothing on the bottom, but now the trend is to surround the eye with smokiness, which is more forgiving because the shadow camouflages fine lines and puffiness.” To prevent stray shadow from falling on the cheeks, Fine suggests dusting some translucent loose powder under the eyes to act as a border and catch any debris.

MC Recommends: Revlon ColorStay 12 Hour Eye Shadow in Steel Impressions, $6.99.

LEVEL 4

High Notes

LEVEL 6

To enhance the browbones and make eyes look deeper and more mysterious, Fine suggests a sheer sweep of highlighter below the arches in a beigy shade that’s a couple notches lighter than your skin tone. “This is where you should use shimmer, but you don’t want it to look too white or ashy. Too much shine takes away from the depth because it’s reflective.”

Lashing Out

MC Recommends: CoverGirl Lash Blast Luxe in Black Cabernet, $7.99; Maybelline Line Stiletto Liquid Eyeliner in Blackest Black, $7.25.

For the most intense smoky look, Fine recommends black liquid liner, mascara, and false lashes for extra drama. “The darker the shadow, the more lashes you’ll need because you’ll see them less. If you’re doing a black smoky eye, you’ll need a thicker, more exaggerated, lash,” he says. Whether you use the latest volumizing mascara or a strip of falsies, “you don’t want shadow on the lashes, so do them last.”

MC Recommends: Clinique Touch Base for Eyes in 26 Canvas Light, $14. 188 marie claire / DECEMBER 2009

For information on where to buy, see Shopping Directory.

still lifes: jeffrey westbrook/studio d. backstage: greg kessler

MC Recommends: Shiseido Translucent Loose Powder in Septarian, $35.

LEVEL 5

Double Impact

When fanning the smoky flames, two shades are better than one. “If I’m using black shadow, I like to lay down gray at the perimeter of the black; if I’m using brown, I’ll feather it out with gold. The lighter shade gives more dimension— it’s what adds the oooh and the sexiness,” says Fine, who recommends using a soft, fluffy brush to blend the two hues. “You can drag the darker color out to the outer corners of the eyes for a more exotic, cat’s-eye effect.”


COOL TOOLS

Timid about makeup’s trendy Pop Art palette? Consider getting vicarious thrills with MAC’s cartoontoned cosmetic bag and brush kits, $49.50.

Handle With Care

Sensitive-skin types needn’t feel shortchanged by their foundation anymore. Neutrogena Mineral Sheers Liquid Makeup SPF 20, $14.39, really adds up: Sheer-butbuildable coverage + skin-nourishing minerals + oil-free + built-in brush = complexion perfection.

obsessions

& CONFESSIONS WITH YING

Eco Boost

Like farmers’-market regulars, fans of green skincare line Elemental Herbology shop according to what’s in season— from windburn balms in winter to Deep Cleanse Summer Body Wash, $42, and Cool & Clear Facial Cleanser, $57, ideal for muggy August. spacenk.com

click &buy

“My fave in-flight multitasker? Clean Well Hand Sanitizer spray: After a long haul, celeb colorist Jet Rhys suggests massaging it into your roots to give hair volume.”

HELLO, JELL-O

Delicious Mauritius

My sweetest memory of a recent trip to Mauritius is frangipani, the tropical flower that scents the ocean air. Happily, I’m not the only one fixated on it: Perfumer Camille Goutal, daughter of the late, great Annick, created the frangipaniinfused Annick Goutal Songes, $115, so that every whiff would take the wearer to the idyllic island. 58

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I swear I got a craving for that old standby gradeschool treat after one look at Vincent Longo Gelli Glosses in Vita and Aria, $15 each. Bonus: They smell like dessert, too.

For information on where to buy, see Shopping Directory.

STILL LIFES: JEFF WESTBROOK/STUDIO D. TOP RIGHT: SIC/WILLARDT KENNETH/DEREN LAURE. CHU: TAGHI NADERZAD

By Beauty Director Ying Chu


Sleep Mask Mary Green, $18.

Audrey Hepburn’s Holly Golightly sleeps it off in Breakfast at Tiffany’s.

Sweet dreams are made of the images in Marc Chagall’s nocturnal Blue Landscape.

Linen Mist Stella McCartney StellaNude, $59.

Slumber Party

Pillow Mist Bath & Body Works Aromatherapy Stress Relief, $10.

Even if overtime and anxiety are cutting into your sleep schedule, almost a third of your life will be spent in bed. To get the most of these hours, a trend that began in Europe five years ago is now appearing stateside: beauty bedding. Joining the bevy of night creams and linen sprays, Magniflex’s new aromatherapy bed infuses soothing lavender oil into the mattress and pillows. Forget to apply lotion before bed? Skin-softening aloe vera and soy plump Natura’s foam pillows and mattress pads; they’re also in Hollandia’s sheets (along with silk protein). Peptide-rich copper fabrics stave off wrinkles and sagging, while antimicrobial silver pillowcase stitching and CoolMax fabric (yes, the same CoolMax that your workout-wear is made of) prevent pimples. “Wicking moisture away from the body is important while you’re sleeping, too,” says slumber expert Dale Read, president of the Specialty Sleep Association. “It’s better for the skin because you’re not sleeping in a pool of perspiration.” Sweet dreams, sleeping beauty. —Ning Chao

Facial Oil Nude Replenishing Night Oil, $78.

FACE BALM Decléor Aroma Night, $69.

FACE CREAM Sisley Supremÿa La Nuit, $750.

Room Spray Royal Apothic A Versailles Afternoon, $28.

Face Wash Neutrogena Nourishing Cream Cleanser, $6.99.

BEDTIME TEA Talbott Teas in Blissful Blueberry, $16.

Princess Aurora suffers from a slumber spell in Disney’s Sleeping Beauty.

Pillow Magniflex Lavander Comfort, $149. 64

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For information on where to buy, see Shopping Directory.

STILL LIFES: JEFFREY WESTBROOK/STUDIO D. PHOTOS, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY EVERETT COLLECTION, THE GALLERY COLLECTION/CORBIS, COURTESY EVERETT COLLECTION

beauty moment

Bath Soak L’Occitane Fizzy Bath Pebble, $4 each.


beauty layouts