Lustica Bay Magazine 2019

Issue 2019

LU ŠT I CA B AY: E L E V E N Y E A R S A N D C O U N T I N G

I N T R O D U C I N G C E N T RA L E

E XC E E D I N G E X P E C TAT I O N S : T H E L AT E ST F R O M T H E C H E D I H OT E L M O N T E N E G R O’S TO P W I N E V I N TAG E S

LU ŠT I CA B AY ’S C H I C N E W R E TA I L O F F E R I N G

lustica bay | montenegro

Become a Chedi Residence owner with our new payment plan

The new, and already award-winning, five-star The Chedi Luťtica Bay hotel is now in its second operational season and more in demand than ever, with a limited selection of the fully furnished, waterfront Chedi Residences still available. We have now created special, new payment plan that makes the buying process as effortless as possible, so you don’t have to wait to relish life as it should be.

CONTACT SALES TEAM

+382 77 200 100 | TheChediResidences@LusticaBay.com | LusticaBay.Com

ANDREAS OTTENSAMER YUJA WANG

, klarinet / clarinet

, klavir / piano

Magija Plavog sata / The Blue Hour Magic

srijeda 7. avgust / Wednesday, August 7 LuĹĄtica Bay, 21 h / 9 p.m. petak, 9. avgust / Friday, August 9 Crkva Sv. Duha, 21.30 h / Church of the Holy Spirit, 9.30 p.m.

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ISSUE 2019

Welcome to Luštica Bay ORASCOM DEVELOPMENT is well versed in the art of creating entirely new living experiences from scratch and Luštica Bay is destined to embody the culture, environment and lifestyle quality its visionary executives value so highly. In this issue, we celebrate what has been achieved so far and reveal some exciting plans for the future. On page 12, CEO of Orascom Development Holding Khaled Bichara tells us about the 11-year journey so far, and explains how Luštica Bay’s core concept and philosophy of ‘life as it should be’ is central to the project. The town has come a long way from its origins as a former military ground. Luštica Bay now offers local and international residents impeccably designed apartments, villas and townhouses. All make the most of the site’s stunning location and striking panoramic views.

On page 34, we detail how work on Centrale is well and truly under way, just one year on from planning. The design combines everything that Luštica Bay is known for: sustainable design that integrates perfectly into the region and the use of local materials that echo existing Montenegrin architecture and respect for the natural environment. Centrale will be the core of Luštica Bay, where residents will find all the amenities they need for year-round living, including a school, hospital, supermarket, park and shops. It is such an attractive proposition for buyers that the majority of Phase One has already been sold.

Investing for the future is a key theme in this year’s edition and there has never been a better time to contribute to the flourishing country. On page 31, we introduce a new Montenegrin LUSTICABAY.COM

government programme that financially supports cultural heritage sites in Tivat, and on page 40, we highlight the exciting new launch of a citizenship by investment scheme for 2019.

In 2019, The Chedi Luštica Bay celebrates the first anniversary of its opening. General manager Marc de Ruijter explains why the offering is so much more than a hotel, and how this spectacular, world-class venue encompasses an exciting community hub with superb sports facilities, vibrant Riviera living, an unmissable spa and gourmet cuisine. Read our feature on page 68 to find out more.

Foodies should also be sure to check out our interview with Guillermo Fernández, executive sous chef at The Chedi Luštica Bay, on page 70, which includes a recipe for a delicious gourmet seafood dish.

The Luštica Bay lifestyle of experiencing and enjoying the great outdoors is also reflected in this edition. The Peaks of the Balkans trail provides a tour of the region’s natural wonders and offers one of the most unspoiled hiking routes in Europe. We send writer Rudolf Abraham out on the trail on page 84. Inspired? Then why not choose your next Montenegrin adventure on page 88? Our feature highlights all of the adrenalinefuelled pursuits available in this Balkan paradise.

There’s no doubt that extreme photographer Predrag Vučković is a thrill seeker, and on page 50 we showcase his new book, Montenegro From A Different Perspective, shining a spotlight on three of his wow-factor shots. It’s bound to make you marvel at Montenegro.

We hope you enjoy the issue.

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WELCOME TO LUŠTICA BAY Discover more about Luštica Bay, a project like no other

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LUŠTICA BAY: THE STORY SO FAR As Orascom Development, the company behind Luštica Bay, celebrates three decades of building fully fledged towns, CEO Khaled Bichara explains its vision

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DATES FOR YOUR DIARY The events not to be missed for 2019

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LUŠTICA BAY NEWS The latest from Luštica Bay – and beyond

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TIMELESS TIVAT An exciting new Tivat initiative is supporting our local town’s diverse cultural heritage

WHAT ’S 34

CENTRALE: THE BEATING HEART OF LUŠTICA BAY Explore the next phase of Luštica Bay – Centrale offers a vibrant, cosmopolitan town for year-round living

40 INVEST IN THE FUTURE

Discover Montenegro’s new citizenship by investment scheme

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IN THE FLIGHT PATH Montenegro’s multitude of habitats hosts an extraordinary variety of bird life – don’t forget your binoculars!

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Editor Francesca Lee-Rogers Creative director Darren Holdway Feature writers and copy editors Katie Davis Hester Lacey LUŠTICA BAY Editors Nevine Coutry Slavica Milić

Assistant editors and picture research Damir Moškov Vesna Vukić

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Images Mihael-Miko Đuričić Ranko Maraš Ilija Perić Aleksandar Ratković With thanks to: TO Tivat TO Kotor DPC D.O.O. PODGORICA

Published on behalf of Luštica Bay by The Clever Content Company Ltd, Weigall Road, London Registered Companies House number 11096255 Director Dawn Alford info@clevercontentco.com

MYTHS OF MONTENEGRO From folklore and legend to its own exciting history, this fascinating country has plenty of stories to tell

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THE WOW FACTOR A celebration of extreme photographer Predrag Vučković’s new book, Montenegro From A Different Perspective

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PRINTS CHARMING Take inspiration from model of the moment Hailey Bieber in the new Weekend Max Mara campaign

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BOUTIQUE CHIC From beachwear to accessories, childrenswear to concept stores, Luštica Bay’s fashion offering is as impressive as the town itself

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VINTAGE MONTENEGRO Montenegro has much for even the most discerning wine connoisseur to enjoy

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THE CHEDI LUŠTICA BAY: A WARM WELCOME The Chedi Luštica Bay offers sun, sea and world-class service.

General manager Marc de Ruijter explains what makes this stunning destination unique

76 INSIDE

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YES, CHEF! Guillermo Fernández, executive sous chef at The Chedi Luštica Bay, describes his culinary journey and shares a gourmet sea bass recipe

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THE LUŠTICA BAY LIFESTYLE Discover the benefits of owning a home in Luštica Bay

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SELECT YOUR STYLE Whether Centrale or Marina Village is the place for you, make your investment feel like home from home with Luštica Bay’s choice of high-quality interior decors

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MEET THE HOMEOWNER Our series of interviews with happy homeowners continues

Meet our contributors

RUDOLF ABRAHAM

Award-winning travel writer and photographer Rudolf Abraham specialises in Central and Eastern Europe. The author of 10 books, including The Mountains of Montenegro and Peaks of the Balkans, he has contributed to many more, and his work is published widely. He has been visiting Montenegro for 15 years. rudolfabraham.co.uk

PREDRAG VUČKOVIĆ

Predrag Vučković was inspired to become a photographer by his love of travel. He is also interested in fitness and has photographed some of the world’s top athletes at sporting events in over 60 countries. His style and approach to modern techniques set him apart from other photographers and he is always pushing the boundaries. extreme-photographer.com

80 A PERFECT FORMULA

Vincenzo Maccarone, director of mc2gallery, discusses big moves, the Montenegrin art scene and the importance of collaboration

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WALK ON THE WILD SIDE The Peaks of the Balkans trail winds through breathtaking Montenegrin scenery to offer one of the most unspoiled hiking routes in Europe

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CHOOSE YOUR MONTENEGRIN ADVENTURE Montenegro has an activity to suit every thrill-seeker. We highlight the adrenaline-fuelled pursuits on offer in this Balkan paradise

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LOCAL TALENT – AT A GLANCE Names to know, from the best boutiques and restaurants to cultural centres and authentic Montenegrin brands

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CONTACT Reach out to the team at Luštica Bay – we would love to hear from you

DARREN HOLDWAY

Darren Holdway is a creative director with more than 20 years of experience in food, lifestyle and luxury publications. Following last issue’s redesign, he has further accentuated the distinctive, stylish look and feel of Luštica Bay Magazine. Outside of work, Darren loves nothing more than travelling around the UK and Europe. darrenholdway.com

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LUŠTICA

BAY THE STORY SO FAR

As Orascom Development, the company behind Luštica Bay, celebrates three decades of building sustainable, integrated, beautiful towns, CEO khaled bichara explains the Orascom vision

S T O R Y S O FA R BACK IN 2008, LUŠTICA BAY was a lovely but empty stretch of Montenegrin coastline. In the 11 years since Samih Sawiris, the far-sighted chairman of Orascom Development, spotted its potential, this former military training ground of nearly seven million square metres has been transformed. It is already well on the way to becoming the diverse, vibrant Montenegrin town that Samih Sawiris envisaged.

Much has changed in those 11 years, but the key principles behind Luštica Bay have not. ‘We build towns, communities, experiences, not just buildings,’ says Khaled Bichara, the CEO of Orascom Development, the company behind nine uniquely evolved destinations across three continents, including Luštica Bay. The company’s philosophy is ‘Life as it should be’ and this is woven through each and every one of those destinations, from El Gouna in Egypt to Andermatt in the Swiss Alps to Luštica Bay itself.

Orascom does not simply construct houses – though its residences, from studio apartments to graceful villas, are highly desirable. It does not simply develop resorts – though its eye for stunning locations is keen. The company’s ethos is focused on the long term; on sustainable, well-managed, integrated towns that work to the benefit of residents, the local community and investors alike.

‘Last summer was very exciting for Luštica Bay – not just in terms of gorgeous houses but also the opening of the marina and The Chedi Luštica Bay hotel,’ says Khaled Bichara. ‘The excitement of seeing a community come to life is the same in all the different

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countries in which we work. The beauty of what we are doing is building different towns, with different characters, based on individual locations – and based on the needs of our customers.’

The prime minister of Montenegro gave his personal congratulations at the opening of The Chedi Luštica Bay; a measure of the standing and prestige of the Luštica Bay development in the country. ‘It has been tough working to deliver the promises we made,’ says Khaled Bichara. ‘Being the largest investor in a sector in a country is a blessing – but also a big responsibility. We can deliver because of our credibility. When we promise something to our client, we can look them in the eye years later and be glad we have delivered something they are happy with – not a product, but a town. You have to be patient, to invest, not make knee-jerk reactions, never take short cuts.’

This prescient, long-term vision has stood Orascom – and Luštica Bay – in good stead. Environmentally friendly principles have been a cornerstone for Orascom for three decades, ever since the company was founded. While such concerns are now widely recognised as crucial, a decade ago few developers would have considered them key.

‘This is something we’ve stuck with since the very beginning,’ affirms Khaled Bichara. ‘Being a very large landowner, we understand that, to create value in the long term, we have to be good to the environment so the environment is good to us.

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LUŠTICA BAY’S DEVELOPMENT DRAWS ON GLOBAL EXPERIENCE AND SOUND PRINCIPLES El Gouna is one of the first green towns in Egypt and has gained acclaimed international awards from the United Nations and others.’ This emphasis on sustainability is not, he says, a fad or a marketing gimmick. ‘It’s part of our DNA – a promise that comes all the way from our chairman. As a group, we look at time frames others don’t.’

The Orascom insistence on integration, another company cornerstone, is similarly visionary. ‘In all our projects, we focus on being integrated into not only the environment and the topography, but also into local communities,’ says Khaled Bichara. ‘We thrive when they thrive around us. When they grow, we grow – it’s very symbiotic. In Montenegro we work with local investors: shops, businesses, contractors. We now have hundreds of entrepreneurs running services in El Gouna – and bringing us more customers. In the short term it may be best to keep all the money to yourself, but by sharing and looking beyond, to the medium and long terms, you can grow.’

This desire to merge with the locale extends to architecture. ‘You won’t see us copying and pasting our designs. Every building is designed individually – we have many different architects.’

Orascom’s commitment to its developments also extends way beyond the construction phases; the company retains a management role once the infrastructure is completed, continuing to operate and manage its towns’ services, to guarantee its high standards are maintained. ‘For our developments to be sustainable, they have to stand the test of time,’ explains Khaled Bichara. ‘El Gouna is 30 years old and its marina still looks brand new. We want to run the services to ensure the level of service we have promised our customers. We can leverage our extensive global experience in all our developments, making sure life really is as it should be for our customers. That is why governments across the world are trusting us with so much land – 100 million square metres in total. It also makes financial sense – it is a win-win situation for our customers and our investors.’

Khaled Bichara’s commitment to Orascom is personal as well as professional. He had already bought his own house in El Gouna when he moved on from his original Orascom role in telecoms and IT to take up the position of CEO in 2016. ‘I already loved El Gouna and understood why it was doing so well – I knew what the group stands for, how great the product is, how deeply customers were attached to it. It was a great challenge for me, moving on from IT and telecoms in the back room; now I work on beaches and in the mountains. The mandate was to make the finances as beautiful as the properties, while keeping the spirit and the promise of Orascom. Achieving financial and corporate success is good for our customers and for the future of their investment.’

LUŠTICA BAY WAS LOVELY BUT EMPTY when work on the site first began – now it is well on the way to becoming the vibrant, integrated Montenegrin town envisaged, in a setting that retains all its original beauty

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ISSUE 2019

S T O R Y S O FA R

In 2015, Khaled Bichara delivered a TED Talk, Illusion of Stability, that explained how companies must embrace change and accept that, in a fast-moving world, stability is an impossible goal. Since then, the world has speeded up even more. ‘In our towns, the way we do business, the technology we use, we continuously evolve,’ he now says. ‘You either go forwards or you go backwards. Our view is always to look at how we scale our business to allow us to continue to please our customers, automating more without losing the personal touch – how we can manage towns better, more efficiently, maybe sometimes more cheaply. We look at how we can construct more quickly and more safely.’

Orascom’s global presence and experience are invaluable assets, he explains. ‘Being in so many different countries and cultures allows us to cross-fertilise, to leverage our knowledge with ideas and contributions from everywhere. We are very diversified – not just European, not just Middle Eastern. So, for example, European processes are more structured, while in Egypt we have to be more imaginative around how we use resources. We have vision, passion and resources. Before we touched this seven million virgin square metres in Montenegro, no one could have imagined how it would look today.’

Today, immense progress has already been made – how will tomorrow look? ‘There is an interesting phenomenon in all our developments – critical mass,’ says Khaled Bichara. ‘Once a town reaches critical mass, the speed of acceleration becomes much faster. Last season was that critical point in Luštica Bay’s history.

With the opening of the hotel, the marina, the retail space, it’s now not just beautiful apartments, it’s a town. The future will see the development of more hotels and the building of Centrale [see our feature on Centrale, the heart of Luštica Bay, on page 34], to attract different customers to create the right community. After 11 years in Montenegro, we are very proud and happy – but we believe the next 11 will be even more exciting and rewarding. We are even more optimistic for the future.’

LUŠTICA BAY HAS BEEN DESIGNED FOR THE LONG TERM, with a

development plan that includes decades of high-quality Orascom service management

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events DIARY

DIARY

Montenegro has a rich and diverse cultural scene, offering a varied programme of events and festivals throughout the year.

Encompassing art, film, music and theatre, as well as food and wine, these experiences offer a unique insight into this fascinating location

MAY

LUĹ TICA BAY BELTANGO QUINTETO CONCERT On 29 May, this world-famous tango orchestra offers high-energy performances of traditional pieces and original compositions, accompanied by breathtaking dancers.

JUNE

MAY -JUNE

LUŠTICA BAY WINE SELECT

On 14 and 15 June Luštica Bay, in association with the National Association of Sommeliers of Montenegro, showcases selected local and regional wines. A must for wine lovers.

TIVAT MAGNOLIA DAYS

From early May to the beginning of June, the citizens of Tivat take to their gardens and green spaces to ensure the town is looking its best for the summer season. From decorated courtyards to beautiful balconies the town is in full bloom, with displays created around a different theme each year.

TIVAT INTERNATIONAL CARNIVAL

Following the success of the 2018 inaugural event, Tivat’s international carnival returns for 2019. Highlights include the parade, which features around 22 groups and participants from countries such as Italy, Serbia and Macedonia. There is also a children’s parade and a concert with leading local musicians.

JUNE

THE CHEDI LUŠTICA BAY THE ROK SUMMER OPENING The Rok beach bar at The Chedi Luštica Bay opens for the summer on 21 June – and is set to offer more unforgettable party moments throughout the season.

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BUDVA PAŠTICADA FEST

This waterfront festival celebrates pašticada, a traditional slow-cooked beef dish, with tastings at local restaurants, as well as children’s entertainment and live music.

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JUNE TIVAT ŽUĆENICA FEST

This unique festival showcases the versatility of the žućenica (endive). From salads to cakes, drinks to doughnuts, this unusual ingredient is the star of the show, and visitors can sample a wide range of delicious treats at this popular celebration.

JUNE PERAST INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL OF KLAPA

Preserving an important part of the country’s cultural heritage, the International Festival of Klapa celebrates this harmonic style of polyphonic singing, indigenous to the Boka region.

JUNE PODGORICA CITY GROOVE FESTIVAL This award-winning festival showcases international artists and has a strong environmental focus.

JUNE, JULY, AUGUST TIVAT SUMMER FESTIVITIES

A jewel in the crown of this thriving city, this summer programme of events offers a wealth of cultural highlights. Organised by the Tourist Board of Tivat, events and celebrations include theatre from national and international groups, literary nights, exhibitions and gourmet experiences.

JULY LUŠTICA BAY MEDITERRANEO ON STAGE

Enjoy a stunning stage adaptation of the legendary Italian movie Mediterraneo, set in the unique surrounding of Luštica Bay beach.

Performances take place from 24 to 26 July.

JULY TIVAT INART STREET PERFORMANCE FESTIVAL

During this three-day festival dedicated to street performers, Tivat’s public spaces are transformed into stages for live theatre, music and dance. With some of the world’s best street performers in attendance, this is not to be missed.

JULY KOTOR FESTIVAL OF THEATRE FOR CHILDREN

This 12-day festival celebrates theatre for children in all its forms, from drama and puppetry to multimedia productions.

JULY LUŠTICA BAY SECRETS OF SUCCESS: LEADERSHIP IN THE MODERN WORLD

Management expert Ichak Adizes shares the secrets of business success at The Chedi Luštica Bay on 16 July, followed by saxophonist Sapphire Adizes, performing in cooperation with KotorArt festival.

JULY KOTOR INTERNATIONAL FASHION FESTIVAL This glamorous annual event features some of the biggest names in the fashion industry. Showcased designers in previous years include Jean Paul Gaultier and Antonio Grimaldi.

JULY TIVAT CAROB FESTIVAL

Dedicated to the gourmet delights of carob, this festival offers visitors the chance to enjoy a range of food and drink made from the plant.

JUNE-AUGUST TIVAT PURGATORIJE FESTIVAL

Also known as the International Festival of Mediterranean Theatre, this summer-long programme of theatre, concerts, film and exhibitions continues to go from strength to strength.

DIARY

JULY KOTOR SEAROCK FESTIVAL

Featuring world-famous alternative rock bands, this annual festival takes place on Kotor’s Summer Stage. With big names on the way for 2019, including M Ward and Howe Gelb, this year looks set to be the best yet.

JULY PERAST FAŠINADA

Fašinada is an annual event that commemorates the construction of Our Lady of the Rock in 1452. At sunset, the citizens of Perast throw stones from their boats into the water around the island in the Bay of Kotor. The celebration is now accompanied by an exciting two-day yachting regatta, the Fašinada Cup. LUSTICABAY.COM

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DIARY

AUGUST

JULY LUŠTICA BAY YUJA WANG AND ANDREAS OTTENSAMER IN CONCERT

BUDVA SEA DANCE FESTIVAL

Following the success of its move to Buljarica beach in 2018, this awardwinning annual electronic music festival is back for another year of top international headline acts.

JULYAUGUST

JULY - AUGUST BUDVA THEATRE CITY

KotorArt festival showcases a performance by world-renowned pianist Yuja Wang and celebrated clarinettist Andreas Ottensamer on 7 August – sure to be one of the classical music concerts of the year.

KOTOR KOTORART FESTIVAL

Attracting tens of thousands of visitors each year, this is one of the largest festivals in the region. It features hundreds of artists and performers across a multi-disciplinary programme of events.

Featuring live music and drama in the streets, as well as art and literature, this leading cultural festival sees the Old Town in Budva come alive.

KOTOR CARNIVAL FESTIVITIES

Don’t miss out on one of Kotor’s most exciting spectacles. With parades, masked balls, concerts, plays and gourmet offerings, there really is something for everyone to enjoy.

KOTOR BOKA NIGHT

There is fierce competition surrounding this traditional carnival, with every participant hoping to win first prize for the most beautifully decorated boat.

DIARY

AUGUST

NIKŠIĆ BEDEM FEST

With an eclectic line-up of bands and performers, Bedem Fest takes place in the stunning setting of Bedem fortress.

HERCEG NOVI OPEROSA

Heralded as a major force in reviving opera in the Balkans, this exciting festival features world premieres and a packed programme of events.

NIKŠIĆ LAKE FEST

Held at the edge of the tranquil Lake Krupac, Lake Fest is a four-day festival featuring talented local and international musicians, artists and writers.

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HERCEG NOVI FILM FESTIVAL

Now in its 33rd year, this celebration of local film makers and European art-house cinema takes place in open-air locations around this beautiful town.

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AUTUMN/WINTER

NOVEMBER LUŠTICA BAY FESTIVAL OF FALL COLOURS

Celebrate all things autumnal at the Festival of Fall Colours, taking place on 26 and 27 October. The event is held along the promenade at Marina Village and includes a local market, themed food and a programme of activities.

LUŠTICA BAY BEER FEST

On 11 and 12 October, it’s all about beer in Luštica Bay!

NOVEMBER LUŠTICA BAY CHOCOLATE FESTIVAL

Get ready for the sweetest festival of the year! Luštica Bay’s Chocolate Festival takes place on 9 and 10 November and is a must for visitors of all ages.

DECEMBER LUŠTICA BAY CHRISTMAS LIGHTS ON

Start the countdown to Christmas on 7 December, when Luštica Bay’s spectacular Christmas lights are officially turned on.

This magical event is sure to get you in the festive spirit.

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ISSUE 2019

Lustica Bay

news

ON TOP OF THE WORLD LUSTICABAY.COM

THE CHEDI LUŠTICA BAY is now part of the renowned Leading Hotels of the World hotel group. This exclusive company was established in 1928 by a collective of leading hoteliers and today represents around 400 of the world’s most unique and authentic hotels across 80 countries. The group focuses on showcasing independent hotels that embody the spirit of a destination and deliver remarkable travel experiences. With its first-class facilities, outstanding architecture and breathtaking setting, The Chedi Luštica Bay is the perfect fit for this remarkable collection of venues.

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NEWS

MAKING WAVES THE FIRST PHASE OF LUŠTICA BAY’S state-of-the-art marina has been successfully completed, and this world-class facility now offers 50 berths for boats up to 45m. The marina officially opened in August 2018 and has already achieved approximately 70% occupation. Seafarers can enjoy yacht assistance from a multilingual professional team and work on a host of exciting additional services is well under way. A fuel station and border crossing are planned as a part of the next stage of the marina development, with dry boat storage and a service centre for marina clients to use over the winter months.

The next phase of construction is expected to begin soon and will significantly increase the number of berths available. With the completion of the final phase, Luštica Bay’s marina will be able to accommodate 176 boats.

As well as privately owned vessels, many of the boats at the marina are available for charter. Luštica Bay residents and visitors alike can rent a boat and enjoy the spectacular beauty and crystal-clear waters of the Montenegrin coastline. From golden beaches and secluded coves, there is much to explore.

For those who enjoy an active vacation, the marina’s renowned sailing school offers various courses from IYT Worldwide – one of the world’s leading yacht training programmes. Options are available for all levels of expertise, from beginner to advanced.

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ISSUE 2019

NEWS

SPARKING A GREEN REVOLUTION AS PART OF ITS ONGOING commitment to the highest environmental principles, Luštica Bay has joined the Tesla destination charging network, with two new chargers for electric cars. With ultra-low running costs and zero emissions, electric cars are taking the world by storm and are the natural choice for forward-thinking people everywhere, in terms of both style and sustainability.

Tesla is at the forefront of a global transition towards

sustainable energy, and there are now two charging stations for the prestigious brand’s vehicles at The Chedi Luštica Bay hotel. Drivers can plug into the first destination chargers in Montenegro at two locations in the hotel complex, with one charger in the car park and one at the main access roundabout. Each is open 24 hours a day and is free for restaurant, café and hotel guests, with a minimum order of just one coffee.

NEVER A DULL MOMENT THE CHEDI Luštica Bay offers everything you’d expect from a five-star hotel, and so much more. Guests can enjoy exquisite rooms, cutting-edge facilities – including two restaurants, three bars, an outdoor pool and spa – firstclass service, and luxury amenities, as well as an exciting year-round programme of events. From cocktails to family days and outdoor fitness sessions, you can enjoy a range of sporting, cultural and social highlights. And don’t miss your LUSTICABAY.COM

chance to experience an unforgettable sunset cruise or learn some new dance moves at a salsa party.

There are also a host of options for those seeking quieter alternatives. Soak up the tranquil atmosphere of a yoga class, channel your creative energy into a cookery lesson, or simply relax and enjoy a spectacular classical music concert or an art exhibition. The Chedi Luštica Bay operates to the highest standards and these are reflected in the diverse range of entertainment that it showcases. See our diary for more details of some of this year’s leading events.

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NEWS

THE WORLD LOVES MONTENEGRO

THE 2017 TOURIST SEASON was Montenegro’s most successful so far – until 2018 proved another record breaker, with visitor numbers rising by 45%, according to the National Tourism Organisation (NTO). Tourism minister Pavle Radulović rightly calls this a ‘spectacular result’.

We certainly shouldn’t be surprised at Montenegro’s growing popularity. Few other countries in Europe can rival its unique, natural, unspoiled beauty, and tourism here is underpinned by strong government support for the carefully paced development of top-quality facilities. The NTO attributes 2018’s growth to better hotel offerings, alongside a proliferation of cultural events and entertainment (take a look at our events diary, page 17, which expands every season). The Tourism Ministry says that long-term success will depend on establishing and maintaining the highest standards – including world-class hotels such as our own The Chedi Luštica Bay. The implementation of the Touristic Masterplan for Montenegro, launched in 2001 to establish a long-term plan for the development of tourism in the country, continues to bear fruit, contributing significantly to the European Commission’s predictions of continued economic growth of around 3% for Montenegro in 2019.

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ISSUE 2019

NEWS

Peak of success MONTENEGRO IS A WALKER’S PARADISE and those seeking a challenge will enjoy tackling the Peaks of the Balkans hiking circuit, which has recently been made more accessible to walkers. The full trail is close to 200km long and takes in remote valleys and mountain passes in some of the least visited parts of Europe; access points include the Montenegrin town of Plav. To find out everything you need to know before lacing up your boots, see our feature on page 84.

If you don’t have time to complete the entire trail, you can pick a shorter section to complete – and there are many other well-marked hikes of varying length and difficulty across Montenegro, some the preserve of experienced adventurers, others suitable for families.

Setting out on foot to discover the countryside fits in perfectly with the Luštica Bay philosophy of enjoying the outdoors in harmony with nature. In this issue, we have even more ideas to get our readers outside and moving – our feature on page 88 rounds up the very best of the local sports, from climbing to diving.

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Your Dream Vacation Home

Unwind and relax in the pristine coastline of TraĹĄte Bay

Book your holiday apartment now

rentals@lusticabay.com

TIMELESS

TIVAT A new scheme in Tivat funds the conservation and restoration of the town’s diverse cultural heritage, ensuring it can be enjoyed for generations to come, as katie davis discovers

As Orascom Development, the company behind Luštica Bay, celebrates three decades of building sustainable, integrated, beautiful towns, CEO khaled bichara explains the Orascom vision IN RECENT YEARS, MONTENEGRO HAS ENTERED the spotlight as a must-visit European destination and, beyond its beautiful beaches and world-class facilities, visitors are discovering its deep cultural roots. Podgorica, the capital city, dates back to Roman times, when it was founded in 100AD, and this stunning country is an important historic location. Over many centuries, a rich variety of influences has shaped Montenegro into a fascinating cultural melting pot, and a place that visitors return to again and again. Cultural tourism represents a significant part of its appeal and there is so much to explore, from early Bronze Age barrows and the citadel at Budva – established in the early Middle Ages – to contemporary theatre performances and gourmet cuisine. It showcases a unique blend of old and new, tradition and glamour, and, for a country this size, it packs an awe-inspiring cultural punch.

In recognition of Montenegro’s remarkable heritage, the

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TIVAT’S WIDE CULTURAL OFFERING APPEALS TO ALL

Municipality of Tivat, where Luštica Bay is located, has embarked on an exciting new scheme to fund archaeological research, conservation and restoration works, and the reconstruction and promotion of cultural assets in the area. Money will be allocated from the soujourn tax paid by tourists when they visit the country, meaning that everyone can now help to play a part in preserving the history of this captivating country. Montenegrin law states that 10% of the tax, which is payable by every foreign national who visits the country, is dedicated to promoting cultural heritage. If you are staying at a hotel, such as the prestigious The Chedi Luštica Bay, the tax will already be included in the overall price of your stay.

The scheme will award the first funds, from taxes paid in 2016, in the first half of this year and the total to be distributed amounts to almost €30,000. Further awards, from taxes paid in 2017, are set to be distributed in the second half of this year and will support the vital work of public institutions, NGOs and other essential projects in the cultural arena. Tivat’s local authority has appointed a special commission to select which cultural heritage projects will benefit, and members include Dubravka Nikčevič, secretary of the municipal secretariat for cultural and social affairs; Jelena Bujišić, director of Tivat’s JU Muzej i galerije museum; and Gabrijela Glavočić, director of Tourism Organisation Tivat. While we don’t know yet which projects will be selected, with such an amazing number of potential candidates for the panel to choose from, the decision is not going to be an easy one.

Many factors make Tivat a special location. ‘This small town is situated in the central part of the Boka Bay and is blessed with a pleasant climate and a lot of sunny days,’ says Gabrijela Glavočić.

‘There are also lots of local attractions, beaches stretching along the coast, a city park, the Solila ornithological reserve for birdwatching, two islands, attractive walks, numerous sport facilities and numerous cultural events.’ Whether you’re interested in history, archaeology, food, music or art, Tivat’s cultural offering will delight even the most discerning visitors.

A private guided tour is an ideal way to discover the area’s cultural highlights. Local licensed guides will take you to the most important sites in the town, including the traditional village of

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Gornja Lastva, now mostly abandoned; the town’s museum; and the medieval summer palace of the Buća family from Kotor, which includes the 15th-century house, exhibits and a gallery, and is situated in the very centre of the town. The exhibits present the town’s ethnographic heritage and provide an insight into the lifestyle and culture of the area, while the gallery’s programme is dedicated to contemporary art by local, Montenegrin and foreign artists. The complex also houses the open-air stage that is central to the town’s most important annual cultural event, the Purgatorije festival, which runs from mid June until end of August and offers world-class theatre, plays and performances.

Tivat owes much of its identity to its coastal location, and is home to small ports, remote coves and beaches, and two islands in Tivat Bay – the Lady of Grace island and Sveti Marko island. The fascinating Naval Heritage Museum showcases over 300 artefacts, from Austro-Hungarian ship equipment and industrial machines to the compelling diaries of Montenegro’s Princess Ksenija. The main exhibits – two Yugoslav navy submarines – are dry-docked outside.

Visitors interested in archaeology and history are spoiled for choice, and the Tourism Organisation Tivat team have highlighted some of the must-visit attractions. Prevlaka, located on Ostrvo Cvjeća (flower island) is one of the town’s oldest and richest archaeological sites. There is an ancient building on the west side of the island with two layered mosaic floors and Roman inscriptions have been discovered here, as well as many Roman ceramics.

Hellenistic-Roman ceramics have also been found at the Solila bird reserve. Just outside Tivat, at the church of St Luka in Gošići, there are Roman artefacts including fragments of amphorae, ground plans and walls, as well as a bread oven.

There are numerous archaeological sites in the Boka Kotorska and Tivat areas. ‘Almost every foot of this land is a potential archaeological site,’ says Gabrijela Glavočić. ‘So far, archaeological findings have given us direction and guidelines for future research.’

There is much for art lovers to enjoy in the town, too, with the tourist office counting the most popular attraction as the Cultural Centre Tivat, while music aficionados will love the music school’s programme of concerts, and the Purgatorije and Tivat World festivals. ‘Tivat is the youngest town in Boka Bay, but we have beautiful traditions,’ says Gabrijela Glavočić. ‘The music school was founded in 1964 and was the first institution in Montenegro to create a department for brass and wind instruments. Today it also

T I VAT

specialises in piano and its vision is to become a leading musical establishment in this part of Europe. The school affirms the cultural potential, tradition and cultural characteristics of our town with the purpose of raising the overall level of culture and preserving Mediterranean cultural heritage.’

Food in Tivat is a very important part of the local offering and Gabrijela Glavočić describes typical dishes as home-made prosciutto, cheese in oil, and local doughnuts called priganice, which you can enjoy with brandy, wine, honey or cheese. Other signature flavours include carob, which is protected by the Tivat Municipality and features in many local recipes and desserts, and chicory, which, she says, is ‘the queen of the herbs in our town; our cuisine cannot be imagined without it.’ There are festivals in Tivat dedicated to both these ingredients. Seafood, wine, honey and olives are also specialities.

A host of local celebrations and cultural programmes in Tivat contribute to making this such a popular destination. From the town’s park, which is filled with exotic plants brought by seafarers from across the globe, and the unspoiled beauty of the Vrmac region to luxury shopping and gourmet cuisine, Tivat offers something for everyone. Do share the images from your own visit by tagging them with #tivtovanje.

For Gabrijela Glavočić, the most striking aspect of the town is its appealing combination of old and new, glamour and local tradition.

‘This is something that everybody who visits notices first,’ she says, ‘then, step by step, the town starts to reveal the rest of its secrets.

There are secrets hidden in each step; in the peace and quiet, the sun, the beaches and the clear sky. From the hospitality of the inhabitants to tradition and customs, folklore and music, traditional cuisine and beautiful sunsets, Tivat is something which you just have to feel. Whether you choose shopping, an active holiday, peace and quiet, glamour or culture, Tivat is for all tastes.’

Centrale: the beating heart of

LuĹĄtica Bay

Luštica Bay’s vibrant, cosmopolitan town centre offers everything residents need for year-round living – in an enticing location that boasts plenty of authentic Montenegrin charm. Luštica Bay Magazine introduces the next exciting phase LUSTICABAY.COM

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Montenegrin architecture; and respect for the natural environment.

Centrale echoes all the charm of the area’s traditional villages and fosters a sense of small-scale exclusivity. While it is certainly a functioning, cosmopolitan town centre, with all the practical elements town residents need, it also embraces tranquillity and calm, with a focus on courtyards, parks and green spaces.

‘This is a central place through which the future development will gravitate,’ explains Luštica Development CEO Darren Gibson. ‘It’s the main area where most of the day-to-day living facilities will be located – retailers, banks, commercial services, the school, medical facilities.

We refer to it as the beating heart of Luštica Bay as it’s the life force of the rest of the resort.’

Ensuring that Luštica Bay is a year-round, sustainable community is a key priority, he adds. ‘We are looking to provide an attractive opportunity for permanent residents as well as for owners of second homes. A critical part of that, and the centrepiece of our strategy for Centrale, is to provide the services that people require to live on a permanent basis.’

Designing a whole town, more or less from the ground up, is a major project. ‘We’ve been very conscious of developing something immediately recognisable in terms of local architecture and culture,’ says Darren Gibson. ‘In the overall look and feel, we’ve made sure it’s a modern interpretation of what you would already see in Montenegro.’

Delivering the infrastructure needed to develop the site was, he says, one of the biggest challenges. Integration into the landscape was also a key priority. ‘Topographically we have almost an amphitheatre around the bay, some areas directly adjacent to the coast, then a plateau, then some elevated areas, so we can build a series of nice little neighbourhoods, all linked by a central pathway of roadways and networks. Those connections are critical considerations in terms of conceptualising the town.’

Those Centrale neighbourhoods feature Luštica Bay’s unique interpretation of year-round coastal living. The residential selection, from studios to three-bedroom apartments, takes full advantage of the stunning vistas, from the Lovćen National Park to the blue waters of the Adriatic, with large airy windows that make the most of the scenic location. Rooms flow naturally into balconies, terraces and courtyards, so homeowners can enjoy seamless indoor-outdoor living and make the most of the Mediterranean climate.

The built environment here has its own distinctive feel, says assistant design manager Jasna Tomašević. ‘We are using the same materials as elsewhere – engineered stone, some rough, some polished, and lots of render – but Centrale has more structure and form, with straighter lines than the Marina Village next to the marina, which is hilly with narrower streets. Centrale has wider streets and more greenery – we have preserved as much of the natural greenery as we can.’ Planting features native species such as cypress, oleander, rosemary and lavender – all are well adapted to the local environment and don’t require too much water to thrive.

The Luštica Bay site offices are currently sited in former military offices that will eventually house the school, with an adjoining sports

W hile it boasts the beautiful setting, marina, beach and leisure facilities that you would expect to find in a world-class resort, Luštica Bay is so much more than a resort town. The long-term vision of Orascom Development, the forward-thinking company behind Luštica Bay, is to create a living, breathing Montenegrin town, full of energy and vitality all year round. Centrale, Luštica Bay’s town centre, is key to that vision.

A commercial and administrative hub, a cultural centre, a verdant haven and a gathering space, Centrale has been conceived as the new focal point for members of the Luštica Bay community and their neighbours from the surrounding areas.

Construction is now under way and, alongside highly desirable residential apartments, Centrale will host a range of boutiques, restaurants, bars, galleries and entertainment, centred around an esplanade, arcade and a multi-purpose piazza. The first phase of development also includes a school, a sports club, a supermarket, a petrol station, a health centre, and police and fire services – in short, everything a community needs to function smoothly day to day. It is anticipated that the latter stages of development, still to be finalised, will include a hospital and a higher education institution.

The design of Centrale combines all the finer touches for which Luštica Bay is already known: sustainable design that integrates perfectly into the region; the use of local materials that echo existing

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CENTRALE IS THE NEW FOCAL POINT FOR THE LUŠTICA BAY COMMUNITY

CENTRALE

HOMES IN CENTRALE will range from studios to three-bedroom apartments, all flowing naturally into balconies, open terraces and courtyards, so residents can enjoy seamless indoor-outdoor living – as well as all the facilities this cosmopolitan town centre has to offer

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CENTRALE

CENTRALE IS DESIGNED TO MEET ALL THE NEEDS OF RESIDENTS

THE NEW TOWN CENTRE will be a commercial and cultural hub that’s full of energy and vitality all year round

hall. Everything else is newly built, following the same meticulous principles used elsewhere in the development. ‘We keep rigorous control of materials, manpower, waste disposal, transportation, insulation – everything,’ says Jasna Tomašević. ‘We have very good thermal insulation in the buildings, higher than local standards require, for long-term energy saving – a plus for our buyers. All materials are locally sourced; locally produced stone, cement and concrete, for example. We install very efficient built-in lights and kitchen appliances,’ she adds.

Both the overall masterplan for Luštica Bay, which evolves regularly to reflect changing needs, and the designs for individual residences are very much people-centred. ‘We are building for residents to enjoy this environment,’ says Jasna Tomašević. ‘Each apartment is light and airy, has outdoor views and is as open as possible, to allow interaction

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with nature. We have perfect weather, this is a great place to be, so we’re focused on walking paths, biking routes, a place that is calm, environmentally friendly and nature-oriented.’

She has worked at Luštica Bay for the past seven years, after studying civil engineering, and has seen the project grow from the earliest conceptual stages. ‘I started helping with design in the first phases and saw it turning from something on paper to actual buildings. It has been a great experience for me. The project is still very young and there’s so much to do, to learn, to improve, and create something wonderful for future residents. It’s a challenge – but it’s a good one!’

Darren Gibson also acknowledges the excitement of seeing the Centrale phase of the development spring to life. ‘As an urban planner, I’m not sure there would be too many opportunities like this around the world to literally build a new town for potentially up to 14,000 people, and make it exactly as it should be. For me personally, it’s been so rewarding. Sometimes the challenge is to step back from the day-to-day minutiae, take stock, and realise what we’ve already been able to achieve.’ He particularly enjoys showing the site to first-time visitors. ‘That’s when we get the most honest feedback – and it’s always tremendously positive. And that is tremendously exciting.’

Proizvodi i puni: Vinarija Giljača – Lješevići, Kotor.

Tel/fax: +382(0)32.363.529, +382(0)69.066.566

e-mail: vinarijagiljaca@gmail.com

Invest in the future

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The Montenegrin government is planning to launch a new citizenship by investment scheme and there has never been a better time to contribute to this flourishing country

aybe this is your first visit to Montenegro or maybe you already know this region well. Either way, it’s extremely easy to lose your heart to this beautiful, diverse, welcoming country. Imagine if it were possible to not only live here and enjoy all that Montenegro has to offer, but also to take up citizenship.

Now there’s a genuine opportunity to do just that, as the Montenegrin government launches the country’s first citizenship by investment scheme.

Citizenship by investment offers individuals the opportunity to obtain Montenegrin nationality, in return for investment in the country’s real estate and a donation to fund an aspect of its development. Citizenship by investment provides a number of highly beneficial lifestyle and financial advantages, and the process is proving more popular than ever across the world. Economic citizenship programmes of this kind are regarded as a wellestablished, quick and straightforward way to invest in a country and acquire an additional citizenship and passport.

The first scheme was introduced in 1984 by the small Caribbean island nation of St Kitts and Nevis, and investors can now choose from around 25 countries to call their new home. Residency is not always a requirement, and, aside from offering citizenship without the need to emigrate, other benefits range from an additional passport to visa-free travel, attractive financial returns, and tax breaks, depending on the conditions set by each individual

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country. The resulting funds are used to improve the lives of each country’s entire population, so this is a wonderful way to become a global citizen and leave a lasting legacy.

While the details were still to be finalised when this edition of Luštica Bay Magazine went to press, it is likely that the Montenegro Citizenship by Investment programme will be limited to just 2,000 applications and the proposed scheme will only run for three years, ending in 2021. The deadline for applications from agents and due diligence providers was the first of February 2019, with the scheme set to launch in 2019. A Citizenship by Investment Unit has been appointed to oversee the process.

Early indications suggest that a donation of €100,000 will be required, followed by a real estate investment of between €250,000 and €450,000, alongside a fee of €15,000. It is planned that the benefits of the scheme can be extended not just to you but also to your family. For an additional €10,000 per person you can LUSTICABAY.COM

add up to four family members, and further family members for €50,000*. The donation will be used to help fund underdeveloped local government units, while the investment funds will support development projects in the country’s northern and central areas, with the largest portion reserved for projects in the capital, Podgorica, and the coastal region, including that around our own Luštica Bay. The programme will also benefit tourism, agriculture and manufacturing, create new jobs and help to improve the quality of life for all citizens.

Montenegro is one of the fastest-growing tourist economies in the world, with a growing reputation as a high-end destination. It is economically stable, welcoming to foreign investors, and accessible, with frequent flights from many European locations often taking just a couple of hours. Factor in the government’s Touristic Masterplan to develop facilities for visitors and it’s clear that there has never been a better time to invest here. Buy property in Montenegro and, whatever its value, you can benefit from a renewable one-year residence permit.

Luštica Bay offers both off-plan and built products for sale, and buyers can capitalise on significantly lower purchase prices during construction. Investors can enjoy highly competitive real estate prices and rental yields that are among the highest in Europe, while tax on rent is low, and there is a low buy-to-sell property ratio – purchasers tend to keep their properties, so the market is not flooded with resales.

If you are thinking of renting out your property, the Luštica Bay rental brokerage service is on hand to look after the entire process on your behalf if you wish, from setting prices and handling booking to taking care of upkeep and cleaning. As part of the Luštica Bay community, you will also enjoy top-class facilities such as the marina, the future golf course, a variety of sports facilities, restaurants and cafes, as well as schools, medical services and other essential amenities.

With world-class facilities and top-quality construction and finish, Luštica Bay is the perfect place to buy, whether it’s your new home, your home from home, or an attractive investment. * All information correct at the time of going to press, though legislative updates are likely

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Experience The First Via Ferrata in Montenegro Book your adventure

+382 67 888 887 • montagnabb@gmail.com w w w . v ia f e r r a ta . m e

In the flight path Montenegro’s multitude of habitats host an extraordinary variety of bird life, including the rare and graceful Dalmatian pelican. Don’t forget your binoculars, advises rudolf abraham

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or a country its size, Montenegro’s biodiversity is nothing short of extraordinary, encompassing a multitude of habitats from mountains, grasslands, forest and steppe to deep canyons, wetlands and coastal habitats. Not surprisingly, it is a fantastic place for birdwatching. Some 330 species of bird have been recorded in Montenegro (over 200 of them breeding species) and several locations have been designated as Important Birding Areas (IBAs) – not bad for a country with a surface area less than that of either Connecticut or Northern Ireland.

Montenegro’s top birdwatching spots include the mountainous landscapes of Durmitor National Park (an IBA) and Prokletije National Park in the north and north east of the country, where the number of species recorded is 175 and 161 respectively. The forests of Biogradska Gora National Park, also an IBA, are home to 150 species of bird.

Other significant districts include Lake Šas (another IBA) and Lake Plav, the

Slano and Liverovići reservoirs at Nikšić, the lagoon at Tivatska solila on the coast, and Ćemovsko Polje, a dry steppe-like habitat at the outskirt of Podgorica.

Unquestionably the two best birdwatching sites in the country, however, and two of the finest in Europe, are Lake Skadar and the Ulcinj salt pans.

The largest lake in the Balkans, Lake Skadar (Skadarsko jezero) covers an area of over 400 square kilometres and stretches some 44 kilometres from end to end, straddling the border between Montenegro and Albania. A national park since 1993, it was declared a Ramsar site (a wetland of international importance) in 1996, is also an IBA and a key biodiversity area, and, since 2013, has been tipped as a potential Unesco Man and the Biosphere Reserve. It’s an astonishing place, surrounded by vast tracts of reed beds, its surface carpeted with floating vegetation – water lilies and water chestnuts. The first glimpse of Lake Skadar is like stumbling upon a chunk of China’s Guilin, just inland from the Adriatic.

Over 280 species of bird have been recorded at Lake Skadar, including the rare Dalmatian pelican, emblematic of the region, the glossy ibis, the squacco heron, and huge numbers of pygmy cormorant (well over 2,000 of them, making this one of the largest colonies in Europe). It is of particular importance as a stopover on winter migration routes, lying as it does on the Adriatic Flyway, one of Europe’s key avian migration routes, passing over the Balkans between northern Europe and Africa. The number of birds wintering here regularly tops 200,000.

It’s not hard to see birdlife at Lake Skadar – standing by the waterfront in Virpazar, I’ve seen purple and grey herons, cormorants and little egrets in the shallows, without even looking for them.

However, if you want to stand a decent chance of seeing species like the Dalmatian pelican, you should obviously time your visit to coincide with the best

THE DIVERSITY OF MONTENEGRO’S BIRD SPECIES IS EXTRAORDINARY

months for birdwatching, and join a local bird watching tour. Bear in mind too that a pair of good binoculars will be of more use on a boat than a spotting scope.

The best times of year for birdwatching at Lake Skadar are spring and winter – in particular April and May, when the annual presence of huge numbers of migrating species coincides with the breeding season. The summer months don’t offer anything like the diversity of species on offer in winter or spring.

Undiscovered Montenegro (undiscoveredmontenegro.com) is run by English couple Emma and Ben Heywood, who have lived by Lake Skadar for more than a decade and are at the forefront of promoting local, sustainable tourism on Lake Skadar. The company runs specialist birdwatching tours in April and May. ‘If someone comes to the lake wanting to see birds, they can do that easily on a boat tour run by one of the many

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family-run local boat companies that operate out of Virpazar and Vranjina,’ says Emma Heywood. ‘Anyone wanting a deeper, more informative experience should spend time with one of our professional ornithologist guides, who all speak excellent English. These are the people who go out there and research the birds of the lake – they have a huge amount of knowledge, and great personalities, laced, of course, with typical Montenegrin warmth and humour.’

The tours last for one week, and are led

by Andrej Vizi – one of Montenegro’s leading ornithologists, and curator of the National History Museum of Montenegro – and Mihailo Jovičević, who works in the faculty of natural science at the University of Montenegro, and is also an active member of the Montenegrin Ecologists

Society. As well as Lake Skadar, the tours also visit Durmitor National Park.

The most iconic inhabitant of Lake Skadar is the Dalmatian pelican. The species all but disappeared from the lake in the early 1990s, but with careful management and conservation measures, in particular the building of nesting platforms at the special reserve of Pančeva oka in 2013, the pelicans have since returned in increasing numbers, so that there are now nearly 200 of them at the lake.

I saw my first Dalmatian pelican on the lake near the little island of Grmožur, while on a boat trip aboard the Milica, whose owners Andrija and Jelena often work with Undiscovered Montenegro. It sat perched on a rock for a while, before flapping off just above the surface of the lake, framed by the Prokletije mountains on the border with Albania. More recently I was lucky enough to join local conservationists, and see and photograph these beautiful birds further out on the

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LAKE SKADAR AND ULCINJ ARE AMONG THE FINEST BIRDWATCHING SITES IN EUROPE

lake. ‘Conservationists have observed that the pelicans are dispersing further from the reserve at Pančeva oka – an indication that the population is relatively stable,’ Bjanka Prakljačić, project coordinator of the Conservation of Pelicans of Skadar Lake Project at Noé Conservation, tells me.

South of Lake Skadar, just inland from Montenegro’s Adriatic coast, the Ulcinj salt pans (Ulcinj salina) cover an area of just 14.5 square kilometres, yet within that limited area 241 species of bird have been recorded, including the Dalmatian pelican. Around 3% each of the entire global population of black-tailed godwit and spotted redshank can be found there, not to mention a few flamingos. Like Lake Skadar, it’s on the Adriatic Flyway, and during the winter it attracts up to 20,000 water birds. The temperatures, however, are notably higher and the landscape, a series of man-made, saline basins, is completely different.

‘Especially in October, November and the first days of December, Ulcinj salina is a place where you can easily see Dalmatian pelicans, in large flocks which can number more then 100 individuals,’ says Bojan Zeković of the Montenegrin Centre for the Protection and Research of Birds. ‘In the winter months you can see curlews, lapwings, golden plovers and dunlins, and all kinds of duck species, the most numerous being Eurasian wigeon

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and northern pintail. In recent years, at the end of the winter you can also see greater scaup in mixed flocks, and in March there are impressive numbers of garganey on migration.’

The salt pans, he says, are also a very important site for migrating, nesting or wintering waders. ‘From the end of April you can see more than 100 nesting pairs of collared pratincole, as well as Eurasian stone curlew and Kentish plover.’ During the spring and summer months, he adds, you can see spoonbills and the Eurasian bittern, which also nest in the surrounding area (although, as he points out, the latter can be difficult to find). ‘Ulcinj salina always has something to offer, when it comes to birdwatching.’

Despite their astonishingly rich bird life, both Lake Skadar National Park and the Ulcinj salt pans face ongoing environmental threats. Lake Skadar is subject to pollution from the River Morača and the huge Plantaže vineyards.

That the lake remains so clean is due largely to the huge amount of spring water coming up through the lakebed’s numerous karst springs, and the fact that it drains into the River Bojana.

Over the past couple of years, it has also been threatened by a controversial development project. ‘It is hugely important that tourism in such a precious ecological environment is conducted responsibly and sustainably,’ says Emma Heywood; Undiscovered Montenegro has deliberately gone out to build strong links with the local ornithologist community at Lake Skadar, among other initiatives. As for Ulcinj salina, salt production stopped in 2013; since then, there has been no

appropriate water management in place, and, incredibly, the site remains unprotected – threatening the continued existence of this habitat and therefore the presence of the species which depend on it.

Still, the Dalmatian pelicans continue to be the great success story of Lake Skadar and, indeed, of avian conservation anywhere in Montenegro. ‘I remember just a few years ago it was actually pretty rare to see a pelican here because species numbers had plummeted due to human and environmental threats,’ says Emma Heywood. ‘Since then, their population has increased rapidly, and last year, for the first time, pelicans were regularly spotted near tourist areas such as Virpazar and Vranjina during breeding season, delighting visitors who saw them.’

It’s a trend we all hope will continue.

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Myths of Montenegro From folklore and legend to its own exciting history, this fascinating country has plenty of stories to tell

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ontenegro has long been associated with mystical spirits and ancient legends.

For centuries, tales have been passed down through the generations and continue to enrich Montenegrin heritage today. These legends have not only stood the test of time, but have also inspired writers, painters and explorers from around the globe.

THE MIMOSA

Myth and folklore are central to the cultural heritage of the Bay of Kotor, particularly in the coastal town of Herceg Novi, where one of its most renowned historical tales revolves around the town’s celebrated mimosa flower. The most romantic legend surrounding this flower is a tale of forbidden love, compassion and generosity.

Once upon a time, the gods created a terrible storm in the Bay of Kotor, destroying everything in its path. The fairy Alkima was sailing through the bay, looking for her human lover. The relationship between the two was strictly forbidden, but such was the strength of her love that she continued on her way as the storm got stronger, and her boat began to sink. Several young men standing on the shore saw her plight and braved the storm to save her. Alkima offered them gold as a reward for saving her life. The young men refused the gold and instead Alkima gave them something that would last forever: the mimosa flower.

To this day, the mimosa flower is an instantly recognisable symbol of Herceg Novi. The month-long Mimosa Festival, held every February, heralds the arrival of spring and attracts more than 20,000 visitors. First held in 1969, the festival hosts myriad cultural events, great food, wine, music, parades and carnivals.

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LEGENDS

THE THREE SISTERS

Located in the Bay of Kotor, the small town of Prčanj is famous for its enviable location and spectacular views, and this historic t own also offers the perfect opportunity to delve into Montenegro’s fascinating past. Prčanj’s cobbled streets, which are flanked by 17th- and 18th-century buildings, with stone villas, gardens and olive orchards dominating the waterfront, lead you through a town steeped in history to Tre Sorelle Palace – the Palace of the Three Sisters. One of Prčanj’s most Sailors from Perast found a picture of the Virgin THE HISTORY celebrated highlights, this renowned mansion Mary and the Christ Child on a solitary rock in the OF LUŠTICA dates back to the 15th century and was built and bay in 1452. Subsequently, after every successful Few books have been written owned by the aristocratic Buća family. voyage they would add more rocks to the exact about the history of the Luštica As the story goes, the three sisters who lived spot so that eventually a church could be built on peninsula. A new volume is set here all fell in love with the same sailor. When he top. The tradition continued down the centuries to remedy that. The book will went to sea, they each waited at their own and is still honoured today. Every year, at sunset detail the geopolitical history, bedroom window for him return. The years went on 22 July, local residents celebrate fašinada, geography, ethnology and by and the sisters still waited for their sailor, who rowing out and throwing rocks into the sea to anthropology of Luštica Bay, never returned. Finally, two sisters passed away widen the surface of the islet. from the Illyrian period to the and their windows were boarded up. When the present day. It will include many last sister died, there was no one left to board up published articles, studies, and her window and so it remains unsealed to this day. works on subjects related to The spectacular Ostrog Monastery is carved into Visitors to Prčanj should also be sure to visit Luštica Bay, complemented by the rock at Ostroška Greda. It is dedicated to Saint the Birth of Our Lady church, perhaps the most thorough field research, as well Basil of Ostrog, and many legends exist about his impressive landmark in the town. This grand as archive material from Kotor, life. In one account, Saint Basil is said to have architectural masterpiece took 120 years to build Dubrovnik, Trieste and Belgrade. thrown a pear seed on to the cliff top on a cold and houses numerous paintings and sculptures, Prominent experts from February day. In the morning a large tree had including works by Piazzetta, Tiepolo and Balestra.

Montenegro will be invited to grown through the rocks, with flowers on one side contribute in their specialist and pears on the other. fields. The project is being According to another legend, Saint Basil, who conducted under the auspices was known as an expert doctor, needed parsley One of the better-known myths and a story that is of Dušan Stanković, owner of immediately to treat a pilgrim but there was none still recalled today is that of Our Lady of the Rocks, the Luštica Bay antiques store available. He planted parsley seeds that night and a man-made islet in the Bay of Kotor created from of the same name. by the next morning they had grown into large rocks and the wreckage sunken ships. Legend has it plants. These parsley plants continued to grow, year after year, in the that the islet was formed as a result of a local sailors’ oath that dates same corner, even though the area wasn’t exposed to sun or rain. back to the 15th century.

OSTROG MONASTERY

OUR LADY OF THE ROCKS

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wow The factor

All images: Predrag Vučković, extreme-photographer.com

Extreme photographer Predrag Vucković’s new book, Montenegro From A Different Perspective, highlights the country’s extraordinary and varied landscape.

His spectacular, unique compositions encompass the picturesque, the beautiful, the rugged and the awe-inspiring

THE ALBANIAN ALPS, or Prokletije, stretch from Albania to Kosovo and eastern Montenegro. From the top of Karanfili mountain (2,490m), the view encompasses the highest peak of Montenegro, Zla Kolata (2,534m).

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THE BIOGRAD RIVER descends from the highest peaks of the Bjelasica mountain range and flows into Lake Biograd via several distributaries. These reach their highest levels in the spring, when the snow melts.

LESENDRO FORTRESS near the village of Vranjina was built in 1832. The fort is situated on a peninsula that was an island before the construction of the Belgrade-Bar railway.

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Company Lusso this year celebrates 10 years of business.

In these years we have grown and become one of the leader in the market of furniture and design. Our team is very dedicated and has very professional approach to each project, providing an excellent service to every client, and assistance with the selection of furniture and complete project for your home.

Beside residential apartments and houses our portfolio includes numerous successful projects, at the local and other markets.

Reference list At the Zavala peninsula, where the sunset is the most beautiful, there is a complex of 200 luxury apartments, which are fully equipped by us, known as the largest regional project, Dukley Gardens, Montenegro.

At the heart of Budva, we continue the project of equipping luxury apartments in Dukley Residence building.

We are also present at Montenegro market through projects such as apartments at the site Skoči Djevojka, as well as Porto Montenegro and Luštica Bay. We are extremely proud of the project related to the shopping center Kamelija in Kotor. On our list are also: Royal Gardens, La Perla – Krašići and many others.

One of the biggest projects that is not finished jet is certainly Portonovi mock up apartment and installment of 160 Valcucine kitchens.

We are present with mock up apartments in biggest actual projects in Belgrade: Belgrade Water Front, Skyline, Wellport, Kapije Vračara, Lux Invest luxury apartments.

Beside residential project we had many success at HORECA market. We furnished many restaurants and cafes in Belgrade. And also we are growing in the sector of office furniture.

Our cooperation has been very successful with many companies operating in our country. Lusso company has visited many places in Serbia, Montenegro, Croatia, Bosnia, Macedonia, Slovenia, Austria, Switzerland, United Kingdom, Germany, Czech Republic, Greece, Russia and many other where we have realized successful projects.

We invite you to join us, together to create a new project, in which you will enjoy, while we will be proud to present it.

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S T O R Y S O FA R

FA S H I O N

NAUTICAL STYLE seen in a pure silk dress worn with striped fabric loafers. All items available from Weekend Max Mara, weekendmaxmara.com

Prints charming Weekend Max Mara’s spring/summer 2019 Nantucket collection, worn by model of the moment Hailey Bieber, draws on the charm of Cape Cod in Massachusetts, one of America’s favourite seaside resorts.

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BRIGHT AND BREEZY sums up the spirit of Nantucket.

From left, cotton canvas dress; cotton faille duster coat with cotton canvas trousers and pure cotton bag

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FOR AN EASY-GOING summer look, team a jersey cotton top with a cotton poplin skirt

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IVANA MA

Driven by a lifelong love of travel and a deep connection to Montenegro, entrepreneur and designer Ivana Ma brings her unique collection of fashion and homeware to Luštica Bay. Her voyager’s spirit has taken her all over the globe and her extensive travels around Asia and the Caribbean inspire her fresh, vibrant and practical designs, which are so versatile they can take you seamlessly from the beach to your dinner reservation. At Ivana Ma, customers can discover comfortable and fabulous beachwear, colourful summer dresses made from the finest silk and cotton, and straw hats from Bali, as well as eclectic interiors and a selection of custom-made furniture.

‘My shop is a concept store and visitors feel as though they’re stepping into my home, rather than a typical boutique,’ says the designer.

‘For example, I’m currently showcasing a photography exhibition of my travels around Montenegro over the past 15 years.’

Boutique From beachwear to accessories, childrenswear to concept stores, Luštica Bay’s fashion offering is as impressive as the town itself.

Discover the unmissable stores and luxury boutiques at this thriving retail destination FINE ART STANKOVIĆ

Taking inspiration from the famous and distinguished baroque palace interiors across Boka Bay, Fine Art Stanković captures the tastes of the aristocratic life that flourished along these shores. Known for one of the most impressive collections of antiques and fine art in the country, its flagship store is located at the Maritime Museum in the historically renowned Unescolisted town of Kotor. The Luštica Bay branch of Fine Art Stanković reflects the brand’s ethos of celebrating local and artistic cultural heritage.

There is a dazzling array of artwork, maritime and military collectibles, antique maps and books, rare icons and porcelain, and a one-of-a-kind collection of regional filigree silver jewellery.

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chic

FA S H I O N BOUTIQUE MOOD BY SEVEN HILLS This summer, Boutique Mood by Seven Hills offers customers even more than its luxury shopping experience, with a carefully selected programme of events.

Marketing advisor Nevena Korać says that clients ‘will be able to engage and connect with like-minded people who enjoy a wide range of events, all of which will be dedicated to promote our culture and fashion – and give guests an idea of the lifestyle in Montenegro.’

From the latest trends to timeless pieces, Boutique Mood by Seven Hills offers athletic beachwear, beautiful wardrobe staples, accessories and jewellery, with a focus on exceptional quality and empowering style. The fashion boutique encompasses both established and emerging designers, with clothes for both men and women.

MC2 SAINT BARTH The MC2 Saint Barth clothing brand is influenced by the bright seaside colours and textured shells of the Caribbean island of St Bart’s. This unique setting inspired founders Max Ferrari and Raffaele Noris to create their first line of swimwear in 1994, capturing the vibrancy and elegance of island living.

The same spirit is evident today. Visit the brand’s Luštica Bay boutique to discover beach and swimwear for the whole family, from MC2 designs to other renowned labels.

Complete your beach-ready look with a range of hats, bags, flip-flops, inflatables and more.

CITY MODA KIDS

Fashion isn’t just for adults. City Moda Kids is the place for tiny trendsetters.

One of Montenegro’s leading kids’ clothing stores, it stocks the latest designer fashions for children and has a fun and welcoming atmosphere that is sure to appeal to youngsters. Catering for children aged three to 16, there are designs and brands to suit all personalities – from the playfully pretty to the rock ‘n’ roll. City Moda Kids will make sure that your little one embodies the height of style and comfort, and also offers womens’ accessories from top global designers such as Michael Kors, Cavalli Class and Coccinelle.

LEANDRO

Established more than 35 years ago, jewellery and watch brand Leandro now boasts seven locations across Montenegro. Its Luštica Bay boutique showcases a carefully chosen range of stunning gold and silver jewellery alongside watches from leading international brands. As well as its own designs, Leandro offers renowned names including Omega, Guess, Longines, Burberry, Roberto Cavalli, Emporio Armani, Haemmer and Jaguar.

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WINE

V I N TAG E M ON T E N E G R O With its burgeoning reputation for producing first-class wines, Montenegro offers much for even the most discerning connoisseur to enjoy. rudolf abraham explores the top options for tours of the country’s leading vineyards

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ine has been made in Montenegro since the Romans were here some 2,000 years ago. The favourable climate – relatively dry, with plenty of sunshine – combined with the proximity of the sea, elevated slopes provided by Montenegro’s profusion of hilly or mountainous terrain, and shallow, well-drained soil, all add up to excellent conditions for winemaking.

And while this tiny Balkan country might be best known for its fabulous coastline, gorgeous mountain scenery and beautifully preserved towns drenched in centuries of history, it should come as no surprise that there are plenty of wineries here, producing excellent wines from local grape varieties. And what better way to sample some of them than on a local wine tour?

The two main local grapes in Montenegro are the indigenous Vranac and Krstač varieties, producing red and white wines respectively (as in neighbouring countries, red wine here in Montenegro is called crno vino, which means black wine). Vranac is Montenegro’s signature grape variety and the fruit, which is deep blue-black in colour, is generally harvested in the last week of August or the first week of September. A great big full-bodied mouthful of a red, Vranac is at its best when it’s been aged for a couple of years in oak, which rounds out the edges a bit, but it can also be drunk younger, when its nose has plenty of berries and its colour is a little lighter. Krstač, meaning cross, is named after the typical shape of the grape cluster. It produces dry whites and is generally harvested in the first week of September.

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As well as Vranac and Krstač, several other grape varieties are grown in Montenegro, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Grenache, Chardonnay, Marselan (a modern cross between Grenache and Cabernet Sauvignon) and Pinot Blanc, along with two further native varieties of Kratošija (related closely to Zinfandel) and Žižak (producing white wines).

Montenegro’s main winegrowing areas lie around the western part of Lake Skadar, although there are also some smaller winegrowing areas near Podgorica as well as along the coast (including Ulcinj and the Bay of Kotor). The Plantaže winery at Ćemovsko polje is the largest vineyard in Montenegro and one of the largest anywhere in Europe, covering a staggering 2,300 hectares planted with around 11.5 million grapevines, stretching away from either bank of the river Cijevna, which flows into the Morača river a short distance further west. Despite its size, most of the harvest is still picked manually.

Plantaže’s wines are grouped into six categories, beginning with Classic and going up through Pro Corde, Premium, Selection, and Ultra Premium, to the suitably exclusive-sounding Royal Wines. My favourite is Vladika, a lovely barrique-aged blend of Vranac with a little Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Named after the celebrated vranacs, or prince-bishops, who ruled Montenegro from the 16th to the 19th century, the wine was produced in 2013 on the vineyard’s 50th anniversary (and in my case, drunk with friends over a memorable dinner at their home in Virpazar a couple of years later).

Plantaže has a cellar and shop at the entrance to Lake Skadar National Park, near Virpazar, and offers group or individual tours of the vineyards (plantaze.com).

WINE The best winegrowing region in Montenegro is Crmnica, a small area just west of Virpazar and Lake Skadar (around 30km as the crow flies from the Adriatic coast, and 80km by road from Luštica Bay), where a number of modest, family owned vineyards are quietly producing some of the finest wines in Montenegro. ‘Montenegrin small winemakers combine the high standards of European wine production with the local quirks of indigenous tastes and cultures,’ states Danijela Radeć, president of the Association of Growers and Winemakers of Montenegro.

Vineyards in the region include Buk, Klisić, Kopitović and Mašanović, which have garnered an impressive number of awards over the years. Most of them can be visited by prior arrangement and generally offer wine tastings, also by prior arrangement, often accompanied by delicious home-prepared food such as local goat’s cheese, pršut (prosciutto) and other cured meats, olives, marinated fish and salads. With limited English spoken at some of the wineries, it’s generally best to arrange a visit through a local tour operator, who will take care of the language side of things and also drive you there and back, leaving you free to simply relax and enjoy the wines – as well as rakija, local fruit brandies, which are extremely potent.

I visited the award-winning Vinarija Buk with Undiscovered Montenegro (undiscoveredmontenegro.com) – the owners of the travel company have lived in the Virpazar area for over a decade and know the region well. Located in the diminutive settlement of Bukovik, set high in the hills above the Lake Skadar basin, the Buk winery has around 6,000 grapevines – mainly Vranac – that grow on stepped terraces between 270m and 700m above sea level. We tasted a delicious unoaked Chardonnay (the highest produced Chardonnay in Montenegro, at 700m above sea level), as well as a very good oak-aged Vranac and a red Marselan. They sometimes

Undiscovered Montenegro

WINE HAS BEEN MADE IN MONTENEGRO SINCE ROMAN TIMES

MOST MONTENEGRIN WINERIES can be visited by prior arrangement and offer wine tastings, often accompanied by delicious home-prepared food and even rakija brandy LUSTICABAY.COM

have a rosé too, produced from the Marselan grape. The wines were accompanied by a platter of delicious local cheeses, cured meats and various other hot and cold dishes, and the tasting was rounded off with a few thumpingly powerful shots of rakija. The Rajković family know the Montenegrin wine trade inside out and owner Miloš Rajković’s father Đoko was the director of the Plantaže winery for 15 years. The Buk winery offers accommodation for 12 to 15 guests, and the terrace has beautiful views over the surrounding region.

Not far away from Bukovik, Kopitović winery (vinarijakopitovic. com) is in the village of Donji Brčeli. It is located on the opposite side of the old Virpazar to Petrovac road, which winds up over the mountains as opposed to the newer, shorter road which goes through the tunnel. The Kopitović family have lived in the village since the 15th century and their vineyard is planted mostly with Vranac, as well as a smaller quantity of Kratošija. Their wines include Šćepan Mali, a blend of Vranac, Kratošija and Lisica (another local variety) named after an 18th-century ruler of Montenegro; Sojak, a red made from a blend of Vranac and Kratošija; and Poskok, a distinctive tasting, late harvest, semi-sweet red named after the poskok nose-horned viper, a particularly aggressive species of venomous snake found widely in the Balkans. The winery’s tavern, Konoba Sojak, is over 300 years old.

In the village of Limljani, on the opposite, eastern side of Crmnica, I visited the award-winning Klisić winery. Here, wine tastings are also accompanied by delicious home-made food, served in a beautifully atmospheric tasting room, with red and white chequered tablecloths and walls hung with rustic farm implements, certificates and awards.

Owner Ilija Klisić’s barrique-aged Vranac was excellent – one of the

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best I’ve tasted – and there was also a Cabernet Sauvignon, a rosé made from the native Lisica grape, and a dry Muscat. The vineyard, which is set at around 300m, is near the ancient little church of Sveti Toma, which survived a landslide several years ago despite the whole building shifting downhill some distance – look for the tell-tale sign of the lop-sided door frame.

‘Our tours aren’t just about the wine,’ says Emma Heywood of Undiscovered Montenegro. ‘They’re a chance to meet locals; to learn about and enjoy one of Montenegro’s greatest traditions – the kind of authentic experience where guests might find themselves attempting to play the gusle, Montenegro’s national instrument, in front of a delighted group who are thoroughly enjoying themselves.’

While many of these wineries can be visited throughout the year, if you’re in Montenegro in December, you might want to head to the annual Festival of Wine and Bleak, held in Virpazar. Bleak is a freshwater fish caught in Lake Skadar and this event is a great opportunity to taste wines from Crmnica along with plenty of delicious local food. In the summer, head for a tavern in a tiny village, like Konoba Godinje, where, along with a short, mouth-watering menu, owner Miško Leković serves his own wine. Or stroll through an open-air market, such as the one below the ancient city walls in Unesco-listed Kotor. You’ll often find home-made wine for sale at markets, among an enticing mix of other local produce.

There is no shortage of local wines to try in Montenegro and the small producers of Crmnica continue to produce the country’s most wonderfully alluring and emblematic varieties.

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Undiscovered Montenegro

THERE IS NO SHORTAGE OF LOCAL WINES TO TRY IN MONTENEGRO

VRANAC WINE is a great big full-bodied mouthful of a red, best enjoyed when it’s been aged in oak for a couple of years, to round out its edges

A warm welcome The Chedi Luštica Bay

The Chedi Luštica Bay offers sun, sea and world-class service. General manager Marc de Ruijter explains what makes this stunning destination unique

THE CHEDI LUŠTICA BAY opened in summer 2018 and such a spectacular hotel warranted an equally spectacular opening.

General manager Marc de Ruijter describes the launch as ‘the party of the year in Montenegro.’ The event not only went with a swing, the guest list and the entertainment also showcased the hotel’s values. ‘We had all possible dignitaries, local artists and regional celebrities,’ says Marc de Ruijter. Internationally renowned musician Nile Rodgers topped the bill with his band Chic – and embodied perfectly the longevity, sustainability and success that is at the core of the business. The 1,700 invitees also enjoyed music from DJ Nick Bridges, who performed on a floating stage in the marina, and were entertained by magicians who mingled through the crowd.

As with everything at The Chedi Luštica Bay, attention to detail at the event was flawless and centred on the guest experience. ‘From the performances to the food stations, the hotel catered to each guest throughout the event,’ says Marc de Ruijter.

This sense of going above and beyond means that many guests have already booked return visits.

And no wonder. This luxury five-star resort offers 100 rooms, 10 suites and a penthouse, with elegant, minimalist interior design that complements the natural environment and makes the most of Luštica Bay’s 270 days of sunshine each year.

Floor-to-ceiling windows flood each room with sunlight and balconies offer views of the surrounding mountains or the Adriatic Sea. Sustainability is key and the hotel’s design incorporates green roofs to ensure buildings blend into the landscape, preserving the beauty of the peninsula.

From its luxury amenities to its environmental ethos, The Chedi Luštica Bay surprises and exceeds expectations in every way. So much more than a hotel, the location has quickly become an

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exciting community hub that encompasses gourmet cuisine, nightlife, sports facilities and an unmissable spa. A diverse programme of events covers everything from local produce markets to dance workshops and cookery classes, and the marina area is just a few steps away. The hotel aims to make everyone feel welcome, whether you’re visiting for the day or enjoying an unforgettable stay.

From couples to families to corporate groups, The Chedi Luštica Bay is dedicated to ensuring every visitor enjoys a luxurious, authentic Montenegrin experience. Even given the prestige and expectations associated with the Chedi brand, Marc de Ruijter says that guests are wonderfully amazed by the hotel. ‘Guests are surprised that our hotel is different from other Chedi hotels, but this is the ethos of the Chedi brand: we nurture our direct environment and adapt to our unique surroundings. As a guest you don’t feel that you are part of a standalone hotel, but that you’re part of something bigger.’

The hotel, which blends perfectly into its surroundings, seamlessly integrates visitors and local residents, and The Spot restaurant has become a popular hangout for the whole community.

‘It’s casual but with upscale service,’ Marc de Ruijter explains. ‘It really has no boundaries and we wanted to establish that we really are open to everybody. We have definitely succeeded in having proper integration in the local and regional market, and combining that with our hotel guests and marina guests.’

The Asian-inspired spa is one of the hotel’s most popular attractions and its range of beauty and body treatments includes polishes, purifying masks and therapeutic massage. Expert therapists have a holistic, haptic approach that aims to restore the body’s natural strength and beauty. ‘Chedi has its roots in Asia and we specifically hand-picked an Asian team to surprise our guests

with an authentic experience,’ says Marc de Ruijter.

The sun shines almost all the year round, the surroundings are breathtaking, so it’s easy to see why every day is perfect at The Chedi Luštica Bay. ‘People don’t realise we’re at the same latitude as Barcelona,’ says Marc de Ruijter. ‘There is a misconception that the Balkans is about wind and snow, and rugged, dry terrain – it’s anything but when you come to the coastline. A perfect day, with the sun a very large guarantee, is about taking in the fresh air and the combination of the beautiful unspoilt Adriatic sea, right at the footsteps of the hotel, and the village, with the view of the mountains, where the snow is still sitting on top. That in itself is unusual and memorable.’

If you can tear yourself away from the hotel, a day trip to the mountains offers unique views of Luštica Bay and will ensure you work up a healthy appetite. Back at the hotel, Marc de Ruijter recommends enjoying some local seafood on the terrace at The Spot, before ending an idyllic day with a cocktail at the lobby bar, or even a massage at the spa.

The future of The Chedi Luštica Bay looks as bright as the weather. The hotel plans to complete the final parts of its events programme, working closely with Luštica Bay management to further enrich the town. For more details of some of this year’s highlights, take a look at our events diary on page 17 and our news section on page 25. The Rok beach bar hosts everything from live music to yoga mornings throughout the summer season. An inaugural aquathlon is due to take place in September 2019.

‘The good news for Luštica Bay is, with our 20-year plan and the number of square metres we still have to develop, we will never LUSTICABAY.COM

stop evolving. Every year will see an addition, something new and exciting to add to the overall offering,’ Marc de Ruijter explains.

Development in the marina continues to go from strength to strength and enjoys a symbiotic relationship with the hotel and the rest of the town. ‘We welcome the beautiful yachts in our marina because it’s delightful to see them when you walk by – it’s an added value that goes both ways,’ says Marc de Ruijter.

The sum of all these parts – Luštica Bay, the hotel, the marina – will truly create an all-inclusive integrated resort experience, he says. ‘That’s not something most destinations can achieve. We work closely together to make sure our guests enjoy a seamless experience and I think this is our strength.’

It’s impossible to encapsulate the hotel in just a few words, but the idea of seamless, understated luxury underpins its offering.

‘Yes, we are very much a luxury destination, but we truly believe we are a destination for all – somewhere a visitor feels welcome.

Friendliness and an open mind are synonymous with the Chedi brand and also with Luštica Bay.’ EVERY DESIGN DETAIL of the elegant, minimalist interior has been carefully considered to achieve the very best Montenegrin experience for each guest

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Yes,chef!

Guillermo Fernández, executive sous chef at The Chedi Luštica Bay, tells francesca lee-rogers about his culinary journey The Chedi Luštica Bay launched… in July 2018, but I started five months before it had even opened. From the very beginning my colleagues and I were looking forward to working together to create something unique and different. We haven’t stopped since – it’s been like polishing a rough diamond, constantly refining our work. On launch night, we catered for 1,700 special guests.

and restaurants, but it was while I was working in Barcelona that I really grew into my profession. I was working as a sous chef for Martín Berasategui – a Spanish chef with a total of 10 Michelin stars – at his three-Michelin-starred restaurant Lasarte. He then gave me the opportunity to move to Hong Kong, where I opened two restaurants within four years.

One of the reasons I decided to become a chef was… to work and travel all over the world. I started my career in my home town of León, Spain. I then studied and worked in a variety of Spanish hotels

The two eateries at The Chedi Luštica Bay are The Restaurant and The Spot, which are… two different concepts for different customers. At The Restaurant, we serve a buffet-style breakfast and

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dinner in high season, and à la carte in low season, with a mixture of local and international cuisine – everything from Spanish to Asian – but all following a principle of elegancia: dishes which are simple, well-made and well-balanced. At The Spot, we push the boundaries and we’re always looking to challenge and surprise the customer. The food doesn’t fit into any specific type of cuisine, whether it’s langoustine with stracciatella or monkfish with white chocolate. We listen to our guests and use their feedback to constantly innovate with new dishes.

We use… local ingredients from the nearby market and we support local farmers. You can really taste the quality in homegrown food.

The local produce I use includes Njeguši cheese, fresh fish from the Boka, olives from Ulcinj, prosciutto from Cetinje, wild mushrooms and honey from Gornja Morača, and chicken from Nikšić.

Some of the stand-out dishes currently on the menu are... Chinese squid salad; bottarga (fish roe) and mint soya; steak tartare; oysters with fennel emulsion; and dry-aged rib-eye.

I get my inspiration from... cookery books and the work of famous chefs such as Pierre Gagnaire, Paolo Casagrande, Thomas Keller and my previous mentor Martín Berasategui.

‘I LIKE THE FACT THAT I ALWAYS HAVE NEW CHALLENGES’ Outside of work I always cook... something healthy and fresh, trying new ingredients or methods. When I have the opportunity, I visit towns such as Žabljak or Kolašin, which are both in northern Montenegro, and really enjoy eating kačamak and cicvara (types of porridge), jagnjetina ispod saĉa (coal-baked hotpot) and priganice (doughnuts).

This year my team and I are launching a... cookery masterclass, where we will teach people how to make dishes from around the world. We will cook meals that showcase cuisine from Thailand, Vietnam, China, Japan, Italy, France, Spain, and, of course, from Montenegro.

My goals for this year are to... keep learning, to keep improving and to keep working hard.

What I love the most about my job is... that each day is different.

I’m not a fan of routine so I like the fact that I always have new LUSTICABAY.COM

challenges. I enjoy creating new sensations, feelings and reactions from our guests that in turn give us the motivation to improve.

If I hadn’t been a chef... I would have been a pilot. Or perhaps something related to the sea, nature or sport, as these are some of the things that I love.

The best piece of advice I ever received is to... work hard and play hard. Nothing comes without sacrifice, persistence and motivation.

My philosophy is to... follow my dreams. And, if you fall, stand up and keep going. No one is going to tell you that you’ve reached your limit except you.

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A recipe for success Executive sous chef Guillermo Fernández shares a popular dish served at The Chedi Luštica Bay

SEA BASS CARPACCIO WITH MOJO VERDE AND GREEN APPLE AND COCONUT JELLY SERVES 10 INGREDIENTS FOR THE CARPACCIO 1kg sea bass fillet FOR THE MOJO VERDE 25g fresh coriander leaves, stalks removed 2 garlic cloves 5g cumin seeds 15ml fresh lime juice 170ml extra virgin olive oil 20ml red wine vinegar FOR THE GARNISH 2 slices green apple Zest of 1 orange

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FOR THE COCONUT JELLY 500ml coconut milk Zest of 5 limes 4g agar jelly FOR SEASONING Extra virgin olive oil Maldon sea salt Cracked black pepper METHOD Clean and descale the sea bass. Cut thin slices from the loin and arrange on a sheet of cling film cut to the same size as the serving dish.

For the mojo verde, sauté the cumin seeds to release their fragrance. Transfer to a pestle and mortar, and grind together with the salt, pepper, garlic and coriander leaves. Slowly add the red wine vinegar.

Pour the mixture into a blender and add the olive oil, followed by the lime juice. If required, add some xanthan gum to keep the emulsion stable. Season to taste.

Chop the green apple into batons, zest the orange and set both aside for the garnish.

For the coconut jelly, mix the coconut milk, agar jelly and lime zest in a pan and bring to the boil for one minute. Place in a container and store in the fridge until set, then dice into cubes.

Plate up the sea bass, brushing the top with olive oil and seasoning with salt and pepper. Dot some of the mojo verde around the plate and garnish with the green apple, orange zest and cubes of coconut jelly.

Drizzle on more olive oil and serve.

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Luštica Bay lifestyle Discover the benefits of owning a home in Luštica Bay

L

uštica Bay is the largest fully integrated resort development of its type in south eastern Europe. Situated just 15 minutes from Tivat airport, and within easy reach of Podgorica and Dubrovnik airports, it is perfectly positioned in one of the world’s most stunning natural and historical settings.

With seven kilometres of coastline, a stunning golf course, two world-class marinas, seven hotels, beaches, boutiques, and a variety of dining options, it will be home to everything you’d expect from a worldclass European resort town.

Discover Montenegro’s waterfront towns and villages, and its picturesque islands, secret coves and charming harbours, all set alongside significant historical and cultural sites. The country’s mountainous interior, with rock-hewn monasteries, river canyons, wildlife reserves, glacial lakes and one of Europe’s most important national parks, Durmitor, is easily accessible from Luštica Bay. For those who are inspired by ancient legends and mythical tales, the historic settlements around the Bay of Kotor, just a 15-minute drive away, are perfect spots from which to learn more about the country’s rich past.

LIFESTYLE An ideal starting point is Luštica Bay’s extremely knowledgeable customer service team, available to all residents. The team is on hand to cater to every request, from arranging transport and excursions to making bookings or simply providing information.

INVESTMENT

MARINA The state-of-the-art marina at Luštica Bay currently offers a total of 50 berths for boats of up to 45 metres and will eventually accommodate 176 moorings. Its facilities and expert, multilingual marina team meet the needs of all sailors, from beginners to more experienced seafarers.

B E AC H E S Residents can spend time at Luštica Bay’s private beach; a stunning stretch of pebble and sand perfect for relaxation or exploring the serene Adriatic waters. In addition, The Rok, the five-star beach bar at The Chedi Luštica Bay has one of the area’s finest daytime dining offerings for guests to enjoy.

S P O RTS On the active front, water sports, sailing and golfing facilities are already on offer. Golfing takes place on Luštica Bay’s driving range which boasts breathtaking views of Trašte Bay.

B O U T I Q U E S , R E S TAU R A N TS A N D M O R E Discover an entirely new riviera lifestyle experience in the heart of Luštica Bay’s stunning new resort town. Explore a unique and diverse selection of carefully selected restaurants, shops, and experiences along its vibrant seafront promenade. From key amenities to luxury fashion offerings, there’s plenty to keep you busy.

M A R I N A V I L L AG E WAT E R F R O N T R E S I D E N C E S – L I M I T E D O F F E R F R O M € 3 3 6 K – O N LY 2 0 % O F AVA I L A B L E U N I TS R E M A I N These ready-to-move-in waterfront apartments, which range from studios to three-bedroom units, are almost sold out. They command views across the beautiful bay and the open sea, and offer immediate beach and waterfront access. The residences are constructed to the highest level of quality in traditional architectural style, using indigenous, sustainable materials, with textures and colours derived from local soils, stone and wood.

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M A R I N A T OW N H O U S E S – F R O M € 8 4 5 K – L A S T F I V E U N I T S AVA I L A B L E FO R S A L E Luštica Bay’s hillside townhouses, overlooking the marina and the open sea, are a desirable transition between the apartments and the standalone villas. They offer a balanced way of life – a perfect home for families and those seeking privacy and sophistication with the convenience of a multi-unit dwelling. With stone facades and natural finishes, their design evokes the spirit of the region with the refinement expected from a Luštica Bay property.

H O M E OW N E R B E N E F I T S : • Access to Luštica Bay’s private beach • Access to communal swimming pools • Customer service • 24-hour security • Free electric vehicle transport throughout the resort • Preferential rates for marina mooring, the spa and gym, the five-star services at The Chedi Luštica Bay hotel, amenities, restaurants and boutiques • Access to invitation-only events • Access to rental pool managed by Luštica Bay’s rental brokerage service • Maintenance services • Membership of the Town Association homeowners’ club

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SELECT YOUR

STYLE Whether Centrale or Marina Village is the place for you, make your investment feel like home with Luštica Bay’s choice of high-quality interior decor LUŠTICA BAY OFFERS a wide range of properties, from charming hillside townhouses and exclusive, secluded villas to waterfront apartments, condominium units and residences at The Chedi Luštica Bay. Their interiors are just as important as Luštica Bay’s beautiful views and glorious open spaces. Choose from an impeccably designed selection of turnkey styles and fittings to enhance the comfort and luxury of your new home.

Centrale

Luštica Bay’s future town centre showcases its own unique style to provide comfortable year-round coastal living. Inspired by traditional Montenegrin architecture, time-honoured textures such as stone and wood are blended with high-tech materials to provide a contemporary Mediterranean feel, with clean lines, light tones and clutter-free design.

Alternatively, buyers seeking more traditional interiors can select a more classic style with a warm, homely atmosphere. Within this look, wood textures are abundant, with enhanced detailing and profiling lavished on the kitchen and wardrobe fascias.

While the residences vary in size from studios to three-bedroom apartments, all are designed with the same ethos in mind. Large,

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airy windows take full advantage of the stunning scenery, while comfortable living areas create light-infused open spaces, with connected kitchen and dining zones. The rooms flow naturally into balconies, open terraces and courtyards, for seamless indooroutdoor living that makes the most of the year-round Mediterranean sunshine.

All interiors were designed by Luštica Bay’s own in-house team, drawing on many years of experience and trend analysis. The whole team engaged in rigorous planning processes, the careful selection of materials, and the sourcing of the very best hand-crafted Swiss and Italian furnishings. Most of the materials used within this development are sourced within a 500-kilometre radius of Luštica Bay, and local firms have been engaged to supply not only the raw construction elements but also the finer woodwork and decorative interior elements. This contributes to the Luštica Bay goal of minimising environmental impact – and showcases the top-quality craftsmanship that Montenegro has to offer.

Centrale prices start from €137K for a studio apartment.

All homeowners can make use of Luštica Bay’s rental brokerage service during periods when their property is not occupied.

INTERIORS

Marina Village

Marina Village offers a variety of properties, constructed down the hillside in a tightly woven patchwork of striking terracotta roofs, stone walls, staircases and courtyards. Each of the residences within this district offers a choice of two distinctive interior decors, allowing investors the chance to choose the style which best suits their tastes and lifestyle.

EQUALLY CHIC is the way to describe both the classical and contemporary interior options available at Luštica Bay. All the design work has been done – so the only difficulty is which to choose

CLASSICAL COMFORTABLE, LIGHT & BALANCED

The classical interior style is ideal for a homeowner seeking warm, sophisticated and grounded surroundings. A neutral colour palette is used in conjunction with natural textures and decorative accents, blended for a look of traditional refinement and restrained elegance. The flooring is created with beige porcelain tiles that resemble natural wood – evoking a rich, tactile and warm surface.

These are complemented by the delicate profiles of the skirting boards and ceiling coving, to give a luxurious, traditional finish. In the bedrooms, furniture is finished with carved, inset-panelled doors in keeping with the heritage style. In the kitchen, white inset-panelled doors are adorned with slim handles, counter-tops are constructed of durable dark wood, and flecked Calacatta marble wall tiles lend a further touch of elegance. The same tiles are used for bathroom walls and floors, while oval-shaped fittings and wooden vanity units round off the aesthetic.

CONTEMPORARY SLEEK, SIMPLE & SERENE

The contemporary interior design places the emphasis on simplicity and sophisticated modernity. Ideal for those seeking a fresh, light and contemporary space, the decor features streamlined forms, clean geometry, simple accents and asymmetric touches to evoke a sense of space and calm.

Clean-lined, flat-panel fascias with recessed handles are integral to the built-in floor-to-ceiling bedroom wardrobes, and also to the LUSTICABAY.COM

kitchen cabinets. In the kitchen, counter-tops are durable wood and sinks are square-cut. Square-cut finishes are also apparent in the bathroom, alongside vanity units with floating shelves, all complemented by white, grey and cream porcelain stoneware tiles.

The tiles extend into the living room, giving a soothing, warm effect while exuding modernity.

Marina Village prices start from €336K for a one-bedroom apartment. All homeowners can make use of Luštica Bay’s rental brokerage service during periods when their property is not occupied.

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Meet the

homeowner We continue our series of interviews with happy homeowners and take an inside look at life in Luštica Bay. From families to professionals, permanent residents to second homers, there is a place for everyone in this diverse, thriving community. Property investor Inna Khusid tells us why she’s investing in Luštica Bay and Montenegro

How do you find the interaction with the staff at Luštica Bay? I love each and every member of the Luštica Bay staff that I have met so far.

Customer relations management coordinator Bojana Martinović is very responsive and was available immediately when there were any questions that we needed to be answered, or any technical or repair issues that needed to be resolved. I have also met Ivana Krivokapić, the Luštica Bay real estate manager, who is extremely helpful and friendly regarding any rental matters. CRM coordinator Nataša Novaković and sales executive Sandra Sekulić are also absolutely wonderful. And Željko Vuković and Vedran Božić, who work on property maintenance, are amazing!

Tell us about the properties you’ve purchased in Luštica Bay. We bought a one-bedroom unit with a large terrace that we plan to rent out, as well as a two-bedroom unit with a great view, which we’re living in while we wait for our townhouse to be built.

Why did you choose Luštica Bay? Montenegro and Luštica Bay are stunning. I think that the architecture of Luštica Bay is beautiful and the quality of construction of the buildings and units is second to none.

How did you decide which apartments to pick?

I loved everything about them from the moment we walked in. From the view to the heated floors, the spacious rooms and high ceilings – it’s all excellent.

Why did you choose to invest in Montenegro?

We have travelled all over the world and we found that Montenegro is a true jewel with such natural beauty. It is a rarity and should be on everyone’s must-visit list. I also like the weather and being by the beach. I hope Montenegro is heading towards being a member of the European Union, which will mean a brighter future for the country. I think now is definitely the right time to invest in property in the country.

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MONTENEGRO IS A TRUE JEWEL WITH SUCH NATURAL BEAUTY

What do you enjoy most about the Luštica Bay lifestyle?

The beauty of the architecture and the sparkling sea that I am fortunate enough to be able to look at every day. I also enjoy the luxury of privacy and being away from crowds of people.

Which facilities do you appreciate the most?

We will be using the gym and the spa at The Chedi Luštica Bay a lot. We also love going to all of the restaurants by the marina.

‘THE BEAUTY of the architecture and the sparkling sea that I am fortunate enough to be able to look at every day, and the luxury of privacy, are aspects of Luštica Bay that I enjoy’

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A R T & C U LT U R E

A PERFECT FORMULA Vincenzo Maccarone, director of mc2gallery, tells Francesca Lee-Rogers about big moves, the Montenegrin art scene and the importance of collaboration

In 2018 you moved your headquarters from Milan to Luštica Bay – what was the reason?

I made the decision as Montenegro attracts a lot of international visitors, and I believe it will do so for many years to come. In 2014, I made the move personally, but I still travel the world for work.

many reasons I like being here, but the main two are: it’s an exclusive place, with incredible future potential, and Luštica Bay management is very competent, supportive and serious about making this a long-term project. I also believe it’s perfect because the location reflects the high quality of work represented in the gallery.

What do you like most about being based in Luštica Bay? Who wouldn’t want to have a gallery in such a beautiful place? I have always loved the sea and art, and now I can enjoy both. There are

How has the art world in Montenegro changed?

The Montenegrin art world has always been active, as demonstrated by the Academy of Fine Arts in Cetinje, the various museums

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‘WHO WOULDN’T WANT TO HAVE A GALLERY IN SUCH A BEAUTIFUL PLACE?’

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A R T & C U LT U R E

‘WE SHOWCASE INTERNATIONAL ARTISTS, HIGH-PROFILE AND NEW’ located in Podgorica and some of the private galleries in the territorial subdivisions of Montenegro. The level of tourism and new developments make the country attractive to the industry and international galleries.

should not only think of its own work, but also be outward-looking and seek to further itself with other galleries, cultural spaces, curators and academies. The same principle applies to artists and collectors – everyone has an important role to play. Art has no limits.

How did your art journey begin? What initially inspired the launch of mc2gallery?

I have loved art ever since I was a child. From a very young age I visited galleries, museums and art fairs across the globe, and followed and collected work by young artists – many of whom are now famous. In 2006 I met Claudio Composti, an influential gallerist in Milan, while I was in Berlin, and since then we’ve been in contact on almost a day-to-day basis. Our conversations were very important as they opened up my mind to endless possibilities, and so in 2009 we founded mc2gallery in Milan. Since then we’ve come a long way, attending many exhibitions, fairs and events in prestigious museums.

Which artists and work do you represent?

We’re a contemporary art gallery. We showcase international artists; not just high-profile, but also new and emerging. We have a lot of photographic artists on our books, but we also embody art in all of its forms; earlier this year we exhibited Italian painter Roberto Coda Zabetta’s work, and the rest of 2019 will consist solely of paintings.

Your gallery name is taken from Einstein’s E=mc2 theory. What is the significance of the name?

We did indeed take inspiration from Einstein’s formula, as we wanted to focus on the concepts of synergy and cooperation. An art gallery

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How do you find artists?

The search is the most difficult aspect, and each gallery has a different philosophy. We seek out and contact artists, but many also get in touch with us. Sometimes we find new artists in art fairs, in museums – as we did with contemporary artist Liu Xiaofang – or in international galleries.

Who would be your dream artist to represent?

[German painter and sculptor] Anselm Kiefer, without doubt.

A R T & C U LT U R E

2019 marks the gallery's 10th anniversary. How are you going to celebrate the occasion?

We’ll probably have a low-key celebration. The 10th anniversary of a gallery is very important, but before celebrating we must remember to continue to work hard and always strive for perfection.

And what plans do you have for the rest of this year?

On 6 April, we opened an exhibition by visual artist Mihailo Karanovic, followed by an exhibition by Giuliano Sale on 18 May, and in July we exhibit a group show of four artists.

The programme will continue with two more exhibitions in our Milan gallery. We’ll also be at the following art fairs: Unseen Amsterdam in September, ArtVerona in October and Approche in Paris in November.

STATE OF THE ART: I Remember II n 07, Liu Xiaofang, 2012; Lengua de signo 3, Patricio Reig, 2019 (previous page, from left); Lady of Shalott, Julia FullertonBatten, 2018; artworks on display in the mc2 gallery;At the end of the world 03, Liu Xiaofang, 2014 (this page, clockwise from far left)

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Do you have a favourite piece of art or artist?

I don’t have a particular artwork that I like the most, but my favourite artist is Hieronymus Bosch [a Dutch draughtsman and painter who died in 1516]. In terms of contemporary artists, I think Joel-Peter Witkin is one of the greatest of this century. I know him personally and have several of his artworks in my collection. It’s tricky to explain his style as his work is constructed photographs that often depict macabre grotesque scenes. However, if one looks into deeper historical references on human beings, it’s very cultured.

Outside work, what do you enjoy most in Luštica Bay and also in Montenegro?

I spend my time travelling around the country and getting to know the culture, as well as meeting new people. I have made friends locally and socialise with the other retailers in Luštica Bay. I’m always thinking of ways in which to support the art scene within the entire marina, particularly The Chedi, where I hope we can do some kind of collaboration.

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WALK on the WILD SIDE With a diverse range of geographic, historic and cultural features along the way, the Peaks of the Balkans trail winds through breathtaking Montenegrin scenery to offer one of the most unspoiled hiking routes in Europe, says rudolf abraham

I FIRST VISITED SOME OF THE TRACKS and paths which would later become part of the Peaks of the Balkans trail, in the remote northeast corner of Montenegro, back in 2004. I remember the Ropojana valley as a hauntingly beautiful place, silent and still, with fingers of low cloud clinging to the surrounding crags and obscuring what would otherwise have been a breathtaking view of saw-toothed ridges and jagged limestone peaks. We followed a 4x4 track along the valley floor, then hiked up through the trees on a forest path to emerge on a grassy saddle above an elongated, slate-grey lake, somewhere on the far side of which lay the unmarked border with Albania. The continuation of this path, I knew, led over a high pass to the Theth valley in Albania, but the border

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here was closed to trekkers and required a great deal of paperwork to negotiate. Once upon a time (in 1900, to be exact), the intrepid British traveller Edith Durham rode over this way from Theth village, journeying in disguise to avoid detection as this corner of the Balkans was still an outpost of the Ottoman Empire.

She described the nearby village of Gusinje as ‘the Lhasa of Europe’ in the book High Albania, her account of her journey. How nice it would be, I thought, if this route was one day opened up to hikers…

Fast forward a dozen years to 2016, and I was back in the Ropojana, writing the first English-language guidebook to the Peaks of the Balkans trail, which was published in 2017 by

THE 200KM PATH CROSSES RUGGED, WILD AND STILL WONDERFULLY REMOTE REGIONS

Cicerone. The valley really hadn’t changed that much in the intervening years, I found. The only real differences were that I no longer needed to go and apply for a hiking permit at the police station in nearby Gusinje, and that, this time, the lake at the head of the valley had disappeared. (The lake owes its fickle nature to the fact that it’s fed only by snowmelt, with the water then gradually draining away through karst drainage holes.)

The Peaks of the Balkans is a long-distance, cross-border hiking trail, stretching for just under 200km through the rugged, wild and still wonderfully remote borderlands of Montenegro, Albania and Kosovo. The route takes in some staggeringly beautiful mountain scenery, from peaceful valleys to lush pastures, glittering lakes, rocky passes, stupendous cliffs and national parks. It also passes through unspoiled villages, some of which seem to have been forgotten by time, and where food and accommodation are provided by a handful of traditional village homestays. It takes around 10 days to walk the whole thing, or you can dip into parts of the route and, in a couple of places, create shorter circuits. There are some excellent local tour operators offering knowledgeable local guides, as well as baggage transfers for those who don’t fancy carrying their own pack.

There’s plenty of cultural interest on the trail, too, from stone tower houses or kula (the best of these are in Theth and Plav) to diminutive village churches, mosques, and, on the Albanian part of the route, a handful of small concrete bunkers. These are some of the half a million built by Enver Hoxha across Albania between the 1960s and 1980s, now long abandoned and slowly being subsumed by the surrounding landscape.

With a couple of exceptions in Kosovo, where route-finding can be more of a challenge, most of the trail is well marked, using existing paths and 4x4 tracks that are not technically difficult. However, anyone setting off on the Peaks of the Balkans needs to be aware that these mountains are remote and subject to notoriously fickle weather changes – hikers need to be suitably kitted out with decent walking boots, and warm and waterproof clothing, even on short trails, and even in the summer.

One other thing every hiker will need on the Peaks of the Balkans (at least, if they’re doing a chunk of it which crosses a border) is a cross-border permit. These are issued as a

APERFECT INTRODUCTION TO THE LANDSCAPES OF MONTENEGRO

matter of course by all three countries on the trail and the process of obtaining them is supposed to be perfectly straightforward – except that it isn’t. While you can still go it alone and apply for permits yourself, my advice is to get a local agency to do it for you – Zbulo (zbulo.org) in Albania and Zalaz (zalaz.me) in Montenegro are both excellent and reliable and will arrange permits for you for a very reasonable fee. Both agencies were involved in setting up the trail in the first place so their knowledge of the area is unrivalled.

The idea behind the Peaks of the Balkans trail was to encourage sustainable tourism in these mountainous areas of Montenegro, Albania and Kosovo, bringing communities closer together across political borders and creating a sustainable income for the local population. The trail was set up by a German development corporation in tandem with local tourist offices and hiking clubs, and has been remarkably successful – due, in part, to effective marketing as well as the amazing scenery and uncluttered trails. That inexplicable allure of travelling somewhere relatively new and undiscovered, or off the beaten track, has also no doubt contributed something to its popularity, with much of these

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borderlands off limits to foreigners until comparatively recently. And yet, despite the increasing number of hikers setting off on the Peaks of the Balkans trail, the area remains underdeveloped and unspoiled in comparison to many better-known European hiking trails. There were plenty of days hiking the route when I met no more than a couple of other hikers, and perhaps a shepherd tending his flock.

Since it’s a circular route, it’s possible to start and finish the Peaks of the Balkans in any of the three countries it passes through. My preference has generally been to start from the town of Plav in Montenegro, since it’s very easy to get to. In terms of public transport, there are around five buses a day from Podgorica.

From Plav, the route crosses Vrh Bora to reach the village of Vusanje, before following the Ropojana valley up into Albania, crossing the spectacular Pëjë pass and descending to the village of Theth. From Theth it crosses the Valbona pass and enters the Valbona valley, then crosses another pass on the border with Montenegro below Maja Kolata, Montenegro’s highest peak. It descends into Albania again, going through the tiny village of Çeremi and the remote LUSTICABAY.COM

N AT U R E summer settlement of Dobërdol, before crossing the border into Kosovo and descending into the Rugova gorge. Crossing back into Montenegro, it passes through Babino polje then climbs to Lake Hrid, before descending to Plav once again.

Some local tour operators and guides prefer to deviate from the official route in a couple of places where the original can be improved upon, either by taking a more scenic (read: higher) trail or by cutting off a section which follows a road.

The route over the Prosllopit pass between Valbona and Çeremi is one such variant – steep but worthwhile, through meadows and patches of old-growth forest, the ground carpeted with wild flowers on my visit, and masses of tiny blue butterflies flitting through the air. This was the ‘scenic version’, as Endrit Shima from Zbulo had called it, with a knowing smile, during a conversation while I was planning one of my trips on the Peaks of the Balkans.

The bulk of the scenery on the Peaks of the Balkans is part of the Prokletije mountains. The name means accursed and this rather forbidding title was suitably evocative to have enticed this writer to go and visit the area in the first place, but in reality it doesn’t do the area justice. Contrary to its name, it’s a spectacularly beautiful and wonderfully hospitable place, with rushing rivers and villages surrounded by fruit trees and, frankly, looks anything but accursed.

Recently, some locals have coined an alternative name for Prokletije: the Blessed Mountains, which, perhaps, is closer to the mark.

The Montenegrin side of Prokletije is a national park. The newest and still the least visited of Montenegro’s five national parks, this glacier-scoured landscape (the glaciers themselves are long gone) is bristling with spiky mountain peaks boasting suitably evocative names like Očnjak (Fang) and Koplje (Spear).

The flora of the Balkans is extraordinary, constituting one of the richest areas of plant life in Europe, and Prokletije is no exception, with many species that are rare or endemic. It’s also a fantastic area for wildlife, with, for example, 130 species of butterfly recorded just within the Prokletije National Park in Montenegro. To put that figure in context, there are only around 60 species of butterfly in the entire United Kingdom, a much larger territory.

I’ve been hiking in the mountains and national parks of Montenegro for more than 15 years, from the well-known peaks of Durmitor to the pristine forests of Biogradska gora, and there’s no corner of this incredibly beautiful little country that I’ve found more compelling than Prokletije. Hiking the Peaks of the Balkans trail is a hugely rewarding experience, and the perfect introduction to the rugged landscapes of this fascinating region.

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C HO O S E YOU R MONTENEGRIN ADVENTURE

Montenegro has it all – as well as sun, sea and sand, there’s also an activity to suit every thrill-seeker. francesca lee-rogers highlights the adrenaline-laced pursuits on offer in this Balkan paradise

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AN UNDERWATER WORLD

Montenegro is fast becoming known as one of the best places to scuba dive in Europe. The many diving centres available offer courses from beginner level to advanced and Professional Association of Diving Instructors standards. Once up to speed, divers can observe the rich local marine life, which includes several types of coral and a multitude of fish species. Those who wish to try something a little bit different, or like to push themselves out of their comfort zone, can try one of the many variations of the sport, including night diving and drift diving, where the diver is transported by the current or tide.

Wreck diving is another variation on offer, and if this takes your fancy then you certainly won’t be disappointed: over the centuries, many military and merchant ships have sunk in Montenegrin waters and these make for exciting expeditions.

Two examples include the Tihany steamship and the wreck of patrol ship PBR 512. The former sank in bad weather in 1917 near the island of Mamula, and the latter, once part of the Yugoslavian navy, was decommissioned in 1972 and used for missile target practice until she sank in 1983 in Žanjic Bay, near the Bay of Kotor. The waters off the coastal town of Ulcinj also conceal many shipwrecks, bearing witness to numerous battles defending the Adriatic shores.

Other diving sites include the old fishing town of Petrovac, which features many picturesque coves and small sandy gulfs. Donkova Seka reef, located next to the islets of Katič and Sveta Neđelja, is also well worth putting on the list, for its varied marine life and the number of different diving sites available. Finally, the Luštica Peninsula’s own Blue Cave – which takes its name from the way the light reflects the water, making the cave itself appear blue – is a must-visit.

UP, UP AND AWAY Have you ever dreamed of flying? Why not do the next best thing and learn to paraglide? Alternatively, if you’re short of time, you could take part in tandem paragliding. Whether you take off in the Montenegrin mountains or from a boat in the Adriatic Sea, it’s a breathtaking way to view the local landscape.

ABOVE AND BEYOND The Montenegrin winter sports scene is gradually gaining international traction. Even though you might not immediately associate the country with skiing or snowboarding, it has good options – without overly crowded slopes. Those who have skied or snowboarded the Alps many times might be surprised at what Montenegro has to offer. Its two main ski resorts, Kolašin (1,450m) and Savin kuk (1,515m) are both located in the vicinity of two mountainous national parks in the north of the country, Biogradska Gora and Durmitor.

Smaller resorts are also dotted around Montenegro’s mountainous region.

Thrill seekers will be enthralled by off-piste skiing and snowboarding. Žabljak and Sinjajevina are becoming known for adventurous options such as snowkiting (a kite is used to glide over snow and to power large jumps). As well as skiing and snowboarding, make the most of the wintry weather by ice skating, tobogganing or taking in the sights from a snowmobile. And après-ski?

Sip on hot šljivovica (plum brandy) while gazing out over the mountains.

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WET AND WILD

INTO THE BLUE

What better way to explore the 293-kilometre Montenegrin coastline than to sail along it? The dramatic and impressive Balkan landscapes make for pinch-me moments and an unforgettable experience.

Novices can learn to sail in the Bay of Kotor and those with more experience can voyage to hidden beaches and coves that can’t be reached on foot – or set sail down the coast and visit Montenegro’s north-westerly neighbour, Croatia, to discover two countries in one trip.

Instead of lying by the pool in the sunshine, why not cool off by white-water rafting? Montenegro boasts one of the deepest canyons in the world; the Tara Canyon, a Unesco World Heritage Site, is situated in the north of the country, where the River Tara forms part of the border with Bosnia. The canyon is a perfect spot for this team sport; whitewater rafters can enjoy the stunning scenery and tumbling torrents on some of the most exciting rapids from Brštanovica to Šćepan Polje. In April, May and early June, high water flows attract adventure seekers; in July, August and September, the water levels generally drop, making the activity more family-friendly and suitable for groups.

Allow three hours for the experience, and factor in the journey, as the Tara Canyon is more than three hours each way from Luštica Bay. However, it’s a picturesque trip and the route passes the crystal-clear Slano and Piva lakes – so be sure to take your camera.

If you’re keen to discover Montenegro’s exciting activities, the Explorer agency, which offers a wide range including rafting, hiking, riding and skiing, is a good place to start: explorer.co.me

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PUT YOUR BOOTS ON

The Gulf of Kotor region is a walker’s paradise where hiking paths are lined with classical rural architecture, and overlook sweeping vistas across the ancient settlements of Risan, Kotor, Perast and Tivat. From the Vrmac ridge, you can see Kotor on one side, and Tivat on the other, while the green hills divide the main Kotor Bay into the bays of Herceg Novi, Tivat and Risan. The main walking trail follows the mountain ridge along a network of old valley paths; unsurprisingly, it’s also a mountain-biking hotspot.

Further inland in Durmitor, Bobotov kuk is one of the highest peaks in Montenegro. Hiking here is to be attempted only by the adventurous, accompanied by mountain guides. The climb to the top is a full-day feat, taking in the naturally dramatic peaks and rocky terrains that make up the Durmitor National Park. The challenge is worth it for the spectacular view.

For those not quite ready to conquer mountain peaks, the Luštica Peninsula has several established trails. One, for example, takes hikers from Plavi Horizonti beach to Bigova village.

There’s also a stunning hike through the hills from Radovići to Žanjic beach.

SADDLE UP

Go where no vehicle can take you and explore Montenegro’s mountains, rivers and forests on horseback.

You’ll be following in traditional footsteps – many families still keep horses, as their ancestors did years ago when the terrain made four-legged transport a necessity. Whether you’re looking to do a half-day hack or an eight-day trip, there are tours for everyone, with the majority taking place from the Komani highlands, Vučje and Lake Skadar. Those whose bucket list includes riding on the beach should head for Ulcinj’s sandy stretches.

WELCOME TO A SCHOOL AS UNIQUE AS YOUR CHILD WELCOME TO OUR WORLD www.ksi-montenegro.com

REGISTER NOW FOR 2019-2020 admissions@ksi-montenegro.com +382 (0) 32 672 655

Knightsbridge Schools International Montenegro is an international day school and boarding school for boys and girls aged 3-18 years.

As the only IB World School in Montenegro, the school provides the globally recognised ‘gold standard’ in international education; a programme of learning that emphasises critical thinking, community involvement and intercultural understanding, the IB is student-centred with a focus on developing intellectual, personal, emotional and social skills and enable all students to be all they can be.

Knightsbridge Schools International Montenegro Seljanovo bb I Porto Montenegro I Tivat 92

ISSUE 2019

local talent AT A GLANCE

We have gathered all the recommendations from this issue of Luštica Bay Magazine into one handy list – we hope you enjoy these insider suggestions and find them useful

Out and about

Enjoying the outdoors is key to the Luštica Bay philosophy, so why not take a tour?

Undiscovered Montenegro undiscoveredmontenegro.com Zalaz zalaz.me

Fine Art Stanković

Zbulo zbulo.org

Best boutiques The stores with more

Fine Art Stanković Luštica Bay Marina Village, Tivat, antiquesstankovic.com Boutique Mood by Seven Hills Luštica Bay Marina Village, Tivat, sevenhills.me City Moda Kids Luštica Bay Marina Village, Tivat, facebook.com/citymodakids.pg.bd Ivana Ma Luštica Bay Marina Village, Tivat, @ivanamaonthebeach Leandro Luštica Bay Marina Village, Tivat, leandro-jewelry.me MC2 Saint Barth Luštica Bay Marina Village, Tivat, mc2saintbarth.com

Top tables and buzzing bars

Biogradska Gora National Park

To discover

Find out below about the other recommendations in this issue mc2gallery The Chedi Luštica Bay, Tivat, +382 (0)69 100 110, mc2.gallery.it Tourism Organisation Tivat Tivat, +382 (0)32 660 165, tivat.travel

Find the best food, drink and atmosphere here Klisić Crmnica, +382 (0)69 702 505 Konoba Godinje Godinje, +382 (0)67 355 535 Plantaže Podgorica, +382 (0)20 658 028, plantaze.com Vinarija Buk Crmnica, +382 (0)68 003 853, facebook.com/BUKWinery Vinarija Kopitović Crmnica, +382 (0)69 060 222, vinarijakopitovic.com

mc2gallery

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what happens now?

COME AND SEE US

MAKE OUR HOUSE YOUR HOME

Arrange a site visit. Our sales team will take you for a spin around the grounds – and share the coastal views with you from our boat. We’ll show you every available location to let you check out the view from your new windows, and our Experience Package means you can sample living in Luštica Bay before you make your decision to buy.

This, of course, is the tricky part: which to choose? Settle on a spot – in the midst of the action or overlooking it – and a size – family villa or apartment for one. Then all you need to do is decide which style you prefer: classic or more contemporary. Our design team are always on hand to help.

START LIVING

A solid real-estate investment that benefits the environment and local economy, and a new home that gives you an entrée into a living, breathing, organically growing community and healthy lifestyle? Clearly, once you’ve purchased your property, there’s little more to do than congratulate yourself and pour your first sundowner on that bougainvillea-filled terrace. Cheers!

BOOK A VISIT LUŠTICA DEVELOPMENT AD, RADOVIĆI, MONTENEGRO +382 77 200 104 info@lusticabay.com | lusticabay.com

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ISSUE 2019