Easy Peasy Purse This sweet purse has been designed with newbies in mind. The purse is a pretty shape and it is satisfying to make, but the pattern and the instructions are simple to follow. Enjoy!
Pattern notes: • All seam allowances are 3/16” (0.5cm) unless stated • Pattern pieces include 3/16” (0.5cm) seam allowance • WSO/RSO/WST/RST = wrong/right side out/wrong/right sides together. • Right side = front/pattern side of fabric • Finished size: 7 1/2” (W) x 4” (H) x 1.5” (D). (18cm x 10cm x 4cm) • Fabric recomms. = quilt weight cotton, heavy satin/silk/, linen, or velvet What you’ll need: • 6” x 3” (15cm x 5cm) Rectangular Purse Frame • 8” x 22” (20.5cm x 56cm) Medium Iron-On Fusible Interfacing • 8” x 22” (20.5cm x 56cm) Thermolam Fleece (or similar) • 25” x 3/16” Thick Purse Frame Cord • 8” x 22” (20.5cm x 56cm) Exterior fabric and matching thread • 8” x 22” (20.5cm x 56cm) Lining fabric and matching thread • Strong fabric glue – we LOVE Gutermann CGHT2 Glue • Pins • Ruler
How to make the purse Steps to the purse lining:
Steps to prepare:
6. Bring the 2 lining pieces RST. Match all edges and notches and pin. Stitch together at the side and bottom edges only. Press the seams open. Make a flat bottom in the same way as Step 5.
1. Before you begin have a read through the instructions and follow them in order. Iron the fusible interfacing onto the wrong side of the exterior fabric. Cut the fabric and the interfacing pieces as instructed on the pattern.
Steps to constructing the purse:
2. Carefully transfer all notch markings (there’s no need to cut out the notches) onto the fabric pieces – it might be tempting to skip this, but you’ll make things awkward for yourself if you do!
Fig 1. Pin and stitch both exterior pieces together.
Steps to the purse exterior: 3. Matching up all edges lay all the fleece pieces onto the wrong side of each of the corresponding exterior fabric pieces and treat each as one layer.
Fig 2. 2cm from the tip of the triangle mark a 4cm line across the seam.
4. Bring the 2 exterior fabric pieces RST. Match all edges and notches and pin. Stitch together at the sides and bottom edges only. Press the seams open. See fig 1.
Fig 4. Turn the purse lining through so that it sits inside the purse exterior. Press the side seams.
7. Place the purse exterior RSO into the purse lining WSO. The right sides of the lining and exterior should now be touching. Match up the side seams and pin. Sew 1” either side of the seams, no more than 2mm from the edge. See fig 3. 8. Turn the purse lining through so that it sits inside the purse exterior; the wrong sides of the lining and exterior should now be touching. See fig 4. Iron the side seams. Carefully match all edges of the lining purse to the exterior purse and pin at the top edge. See fig 5.
Fig 5. Carefully match up all edges and side seams and pin at the top edge.
9. Stitch neatly all around the top of the purse no more than 2mm from the edge. See fig 6. If necessary tidy up the top edge by trimming off any uneven fabric or interfacing edges.
5. Make flat bottom for the purse exterior: Flatten the bottom corner of the purse so that it forms a triangle and the purse side seam meets the bottom seam. Measure 2cm in from the tip of the triangle and mark a 4cm long line across the seam as shown in the picture. See fig 2. Stitch along the 4cm line and cut off the excess triangle fabric about 1cm away from the stitching. Repeat for the other bottom corner.
Fig 3. Place the purse exterior RSO into the purse lining WSO. Match up the side seams and pin. Sew 1” either side of the seams no more than 2mm from the edge.
Fig 6. Topstitching the lining purse to the exterior purse will make inserting the purse into the frame a lot easier.
c. Look at the front of your purse and check that all looks even and centered. Adjust/correct as necessary before the glue dries.
10. Working with one side of the purse at a time we are now going to glue the purse to the frame. See fig 7. Have tissue handy just in case. Apply glue to the channel of one of the side of the purse frame. Start at one hinge and work your way to the other hinge. Be reasonably generous with the glue or the purse will not bond to the frame, but don’t use so much as to cause an ‘ooze scenario’!
d. Leave to dry for 15mins before tackling the other side of the frame and purse in the same way.
Fig 7. Liberally apply glue to the channel of one side of the frame.
11. Now apply glue to the sides and top edge of one side of the purse. See fig 8. If you are a bit nervous you can protect the purse fabric that will not be inserted into the purse frame with masking tape. Leave the glue to dry (to go tacky; you can even make a cuppa!) on both the frame and purse for 5 mins.
e. Cut the cord into 2 equal lengths. Take one of the lengths and using a pointy tool, stuff the cord firmly into the channel of the purse frame on the lining side. Repeat with the other side of the purse and other piece of cord See fig 11.
Fig 10. Check that the lining side of the purse is also inserted into the frame.
f. Let everything dry for about 30 mins and then pick off any stray glue from the frame. Ta dah! All finished. Well done!
12. When the glue is tacky on both the purse and the frame insert the purse into the frame.
Fig 11. Stuffing cord into the channel of the purse will further strengthen the bond between the purse and frame.
Fig 8. Liberally apply glue to one side of the purse.
a. Srart by inserting the sides of the purse into the frame (hinge end first). Ensure the hinge on the purse is aligned with the hinge on the frame then work your way up to the centre top. Use a pointed tool (such as small scissors) to firmly poke and stuff the fabric evenly right into the frame. See fig 9. b. After you have inserted the sides of the purse into the frame, start inserting the top edge of the purse into the frame working reasonably quickly before the glue dries. Turn the purse over to check the lining side is also inserted evenly into the frame. See fig 10.
Fig 9. Use a pointy tool to stuff the purse fabric into the channel of the frame. Be firm!
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