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ISSUE 1 - 2009

FASHION BLOGGER ISSUE EDITORIAL EDITOR IN CHIEF Wafa Alobaidat FEATURES EDITOR Luma Bashmi FASHION EDITOR Kristin Knox

ILLUSTRATION EDITOR Jade Cummings

DESIGN ART DIRECTORS Tina Fung, Tania Chong, Christie Li CREATIVE CONSULTANT Richard Wilding COVER DESIGN John Paul Thurlow SKETCHBOOK LOGO DESIGN Charlotte Nicod WEBSITE DESIGN Tim Holmes, Jade Cummings BLOG DESIGN Tim Holmes PPESS & MEDIA KIT DESIGN Jade Cooper-Collins

PRODUCED BY Agency Obaidat London

SKETCHBOOK JOURNALISTS Mariam El-Banna, Marissa Baxter, Sophie Eggleton, Elham Fakhro, Grashina Gabelmann, Julia Morgan, Amy Nightingale, Ruth Reyes, Jordan Shiel, Victoria Tan, Duygu Tavan, Lucy Toms, Susan Walsh, Rebecca Mei Ying Yap

SKETCHBOOK PHOTOGRAPHERS PHOTOGRAPHY DIRECTOR Alberto Newton Gina Amama, Hossein Fatemi, Katrina More-Molyneux, Hugh O’Malley, Nathan Pask, Reka Reisinger, Helena Tepli

SKETCHBOOK STYLIST Stephen McGowan

SKETCHBOOK ILLUSTRATORS June Chanpoomidole, Annie Driscoll, Chloe Ehninger, Matilda Huang, Susan Keys, Bryony Lloyd, Clare Owen, Flora Rogers, Svetlana Sobcenko, Jack Teagle, Donya Todd, Kajal Verma, Anna Zejmo

SKETCHBOOK GRAPHIC DESIGNERS Alina Antemir, Seb Brookhouse, Stephanie Durrant, Luke French, Eleanor Goodwin, Jonathan Grey-Wilson, Justine Middleton, Linda Nguyen, Reema Patel, Kevin Tang

THANKS TO Antonia Blechingberg from Dirty Glam, Sam Bompas and Harry Parr, Fred Butler, Lauren Felix from La Petite Fashionista, Sonny Groo from MYKROMAG, Katja Hentschel from Glam Canyon, Susanne Lau from Style Bubble, Ross Mytton, Yusuf Ozkizil, Brett Perkins from True Communications, Diane Pernet from A Shaded View on Fashion, David Benjamin Sherry

ADDRESS/CONTACT DETAILS Sketchbook Magazine HQ Studio 3 86 Kensington Park Road W11 2PL

ADVERTISING ENQUIRIES E:sketchbookmagazine@live.com T: +44 (0)7805909160

SKETCHBOOK MAGAZINE LINKS Website: www.sketchbookmagazine.com/ Blog: www.sketchbookblog.tumblr.com/ Twitter: www.twitter.com/sketchbookmag Facebook Fan Page: www.facebook.com/pages/Sketchbook-Magazine

All submissions property of Sketchbook Magazine. The entire content is a copyright of Sketchbook Magazine and cannot be reproduced whole or in part without written authorisation of the publishers. For subsciption information write us on sketchbookmagazine@live.com


CONTENT

PART I

Editor’s Letter

04

Contributors

06

Sanaa Landing

08

Butler Bound

10

Vogue Diaries

13

All American

20

In the Name of Fashion

26

Fashion Blogosphere Deblogged

36

Street Fashion on a Roll

38

Susie Lau: A Bubble Not To Be Popped

44

Modern Day Glam Girl

52

Jak & Jil

54

Coco Lady

60

Khalo

66

The Coveted’s Jennine Tamm

68

Notes by Naive

70

With Dirtyglam’s Antonia Blechinberg

76

Fashion Toast

78

In Africa: A Rosspective

84

LCF BA Graduate Show

90

In Part II of the Fashion Blogger Issue you will find: A Taste of the Traditional, Taking Jelly to New Heights, Never Let Me Go, Life Through the Lens, Area Dansk, The Pernet Phenomenon, Surreal Side of the Tube, Lulu and your Mom’s Lulu Chang, A Recipe for Success: Perez Hilton, Off the Rails, Forest Clearing, Sonny Groo is Abdul Lagerfield, Abdul the Crow, La Petite Fashionista’s Lauren Felix, Garance Dore, Financial Fools Day, Interview with a Shoe


Editor’s Letter

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hree years ago in an empty apartment in King’s Cross I was in a depressed state. I just had the worst experience of my life living with a flatmate. I was skimming through Teen Vogue (technically I was coming of teen then) and read an excerpt on a lean, awkward-looking fashion blogger, Susie Bubble. At that time I was working with fashion designer extraordinaire Liza Bruce and her husband Nicholas Alvis Vega in Knightsbridge, where I was getting my first taste of and learning the ropes of the fashion industry. I was being exposed to style, fabrics and decor from Morocco and Italy. I was also hoarding fashion magazines like cake. At the press of a keyboard button, I was transported into Susie’s world of DIY fabrics, collaged moodboards, obsessing over her daily activity of playing dress up and photoshopping herself unto Vogue backgrounds. To put it mildly, I was entranced. To understand how I came to be in the realm of blogging I have to take you through a past state of mind. In that King’s Cross flat I was confused about my life more than ever. I was 4

studying Interior Design and I loathed it. It must have been the rulers and tractors or the evil tutors who thrust criticism my way at every corner; whatever it was, the atmosphere just wasn’t for me. To vent out my frustration, I started exploring the city of London which became like my playground. I went to every gallery, exhibition and talk given by a creative person desperately trying to find a way out of my situation. I must have been out every night dragging the odd friend with me to meet illustrators, art curators, and young entrepreneurs, capturing everything with my digi-cam but then having no space to showcase what I’ve seen. At that same time, Style Bubble came into my life and it just seemed to fit. Here was this girl in digital media, blogging about fashion 3 times a day. Her level of commitment, consistency, and constant pushing of the envelope by trying new things in each blog post blew me away. She made it look so easy knocking out one personal blog post out after the other. She managed to relate fashion to


her childhood, her work, her life in the city, and current issues, which made me in turn, relate to her and reflect on my life. After following Susie Bubble with no fail for 3 years, I finally launched my own blog- Fashion Ambitions. In my very first post, I wrote about my quest to find myself, my likes, my dislikes. I always aimed to treat the blog as my experiential playground, showcasing my daily life in the city. I dabbled in fashion news and updates, interviewed my idols in magazine publishing, did some street style photos, and captured behind the scenes of fashion shoots I helped to assist in. Along with my blog, I was also interning with different establishments in fashion, working with London Fashion Week catwalk organizers, assisting various stylists on fashion shoot locations, and becoming a personal assistant to designers. What I discovered in this period was a few things: 1.The blog had become the most consistent thing I have done in my life and pretty much acts as a backbone to my work structure where I must continue to archive my experiences as a city girl who has a passion for design and art; 2. I did not want to be a stylist; and 3. I was head over heels, madly in love and insanely obsessed with print publications. It became a habit way out of my control. I bought them everywhere, always clutched them against my chest as I strolled home to have tea and flip the pages one after the other with some soft ballad in the background. A year ago I started to mastermind a print publication in fashion, art and culture called Sketchbook. Sketchbook was conceived as a magazine aimed at exploring and reporting on the behind-the-scenes of these industries. My love and craving for the process, the moodboards of inspiration and the general trinkets that go by us everyday without a notice, but could create an entire collection of structured jackets a la Balmain, or a series of Romanesque ceramic bowls in the shape of body parts a la Ioli Sifakiki. It was not just about the product itself anymore, but also about the beauty of the process of conceptualizing it, creating it and appreciating the means to an end. With Sketchbook, we also wanted to open up the doors to what previously seemed untouchable and unknown to an outsider in fashion, art or design. Sketchbook, as its name suggests, is a page in the notepad

of a journalist, a music sheet from a violinist’s music book, a sketch from an artist’s drawing pad or a piece of cloth from a fashion designer’s studio. It is a collection of inspirational, coveted and precious items, which to some may not mean much, but to the designer, the upcoming series of designs, and to those who see potential in such. Sketchbook’s aim is to provide an entrance into the minds of creatives and inspire those who wish to be part of such an exquisite industry. It seems like just yesterday that I was having coffee with Luma Bashmi, the features editor of the magazine, in Patisserie Valerie on King’s Road as we discussed the mood and feel of the magazine, bringing it to life. There are over 100 people involved in the first issue. This issue would not have been possible without Richard Wilding, web genius and the creative consultant of the magazine. His studio, which I nicknamed the design spa, has been a heavenly place to attend. He might not know this but he really is a mentor to me, the tutor I never had at university. I absolutely cherish our time together at the design spa, pouring over his precious collected papers and found objects discussing quality of publications. I also need to thank the logo designer Charlotte Nicod for bringing the brand to life and by giving it a signature look; she really understood and brought my vision to life. Alberto Newton our photographer has been a treasure, he was always available to shoot our stories and am glad to have his credits for both the Fred Butler and Bompas and Parr story.

oversees the quality of all the features and lands us the large features. Sketchbook would not be possible without you. I am forever grateful to have you as part of the Sketchbook family and I hope 12 issues down the line we are still as positive and creative as we are today. I will not be able to escape unscathed without thanking my dear mother, who supports me and my ludicrous projects. There are 4 more projects coming your way and it’s all thanks to this woman. Lastly, I know Susie has heard this a million times before but in case you want to hear it again, you have influenced my choice of career and opened my eyes to a whole new world. I really do believe I am doing what I love to do because of you and your blog. I am honored to have you in the first issue of my magazine. I cannot wait for the day where I can buy your own magazine from the shelf. The support system of an international body of writers, designers and photographers made it possible for us to express our ideas and produce a great volume of work. Enjoy the first issue of Sketchbook, look out for our next issue—The London Fashion Week Issue­­—and thanks for being part of the SB family.

Yours truly, WAFA ALOBAIDAT Editor-in-Chief

Our astounding cover would not be possible without having John Paul Thurlow on board. He is extremely talented and we would love to continue working with him. Kristin Knox our fashion editor is juggling a million projects and book deals but still had time to get involved with our publication, despite finishing her MA from Oxford University and travelling to Sardinia at the same time. Luma Bashmi, the features editor of this publication deserves a paragraph on her own. Luma, thank you so much for being my backbone, and for your ongoing patient support. Luma single handedly

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CONTRIBUTORS GINA AMAMA 23 - Poland - Freelance Photographer What are you doing at the moment? Looking for the place to be myself What’s in your sketchbook? Chaotic combination of images, words and unwritten thoughts.

MARISSA BAXTER 23 - New Zealand - Writer/PA/ Fashion Fanatic What are you doing at the moment? Building my freelance writing portfolio, exploring new designers and artists from around the world, searching for the ideal holiday destination, finding new vegetarian recipes to try.

JUNE CHANPOOMIDOLE 22 - UK - Illustrator What are you doing at the moment? Currently doing various projects, sketching, painting and illustrating at the moment. What’s in your sketchbook? Komodo dragons, passengers on the tube, various stories, ideas, shampoo. www.junesees.com

JADE COOPER-COLLINS 21 - UK - Graduate What are you doing at the moment? Aspiring fashion journalist and magazine designer who’s passing the time interning at various magazines. What’s in your sketchbook? Lots of clippings from my vast collection of fashion magazines. http://jadecoopercollins. carbonmade.com

JADE CUMMINGS 22 - UK - Recent Graduate What are you doing at the moment? Looking for design opportunities What do you like about LFW? The inspiration it provides for all creative disciplines. www.jcdesignsuk.com

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ANNIE DRISCOLL 22 - United Kingdom - Freelance illustrator What are you doing at the moment? I live and work as a freelance illustrator based in North London, having recently completed my BA (Hons) in illustration at Middlesex University. What’s in your sketchbook? Charcoal portraits, a raven, speech bubbles, paper wings, fly stamp. www.anniedriscollillustration. blogspot.com SOPHIE EGGLETON 24 - UK - Journalist/Artist/ Stylist What are you doing at the moment? Reviewing CDS and Catwalk Trends, craving chocolate! What’s in your sketchbook? Everything audio and visual that makes my heart go a flutter! www.sophieeggleton.withtank.com

HOSSEIN FATEMI

SUSAN KEYS

29 - Iran - Photojournalist What are you doing at the moment? I am currently working freelance for Zuma Press in the US. What’s in your sketchbook? I am currently working to publish a photo book on Afghanistan, showing different aspects of it and considering similarities which exist between the Iranian and Afghan cultures. www.hosseinfatemi.com GRASHINA GABELMANN

21 - UK - Freelance Illustrator What are you doing at the moment? I recently graduated from Plymouth Uni having done illustration. Now I am concentrating on my next move with my degree. What’s in your sketchbook? Collage in some, drawings in others. www.susankeys.co.uk

20 - Germany - Fashion Journalism Student What are you doing at the moment? Interning at DailyCandy.com What’s in your sketchbook? Newly discovered words, book quotes and newspaper/magazine clippings.

JONATHAN GREY-WILSON

25 - Scotland - Illustrator/ Graphic Designer 22 - England - Freelance What are you doing at the moment? Illustrator Starting an MA in Graphic What are you doing at the moment? Design at the London College of I am currently working on some Communication in January 2010. new ideas and themes for a book, What’s in your sketchbook? whilst also doing some editorial Cartoons, Illustrations and sketches based illustrations. of people and places, mostly in ink. What’s in your sketchbook? www.greywilson.blogspot.com/ Characters, oddities, strange furniture, overheard words and TIM HOLMES conversations, the beginnings of 22 - UK - Graphic Designer stories. What are you doing at the moment? www.chloeehninger.com Designing things. MARIAM EL-BANNA What’s in your sketchbook? 22 - England - Self-confessed/ Assorted ephemera. Writer www.vonholmes.co.uk What are you doing at the moment? MATILDA HUANG Stepping into the world of design 27 - Taiwan - Illustrator/ graphic journalism and critique, and taking designer what the world has to offer. What are you doing at the moment? What’s in your sketchbook? Working as a self-employed Photographs, magazine cut outs illustrator/ designer / re-toucher, and and images of shoes I’ll never trying to improve myself. afford. What’s in your sketchbook? ELHAM FAKHRO Messy drawings, weird things and pictorial diary. 22 - Bahrain - Student What are you doing at the moment? www.matildasillustration.blogspot. com/ Enjoying some time off before beginning a Master’s Degree. What’s in your sketchbook? Note to self: Must buy a sketchbook.

CHLOE EHNINGER

KRISTIN KNOX 23 - New York City, USA - Blogger/ Journalist What are you doing at the moment? I’m an academic fashionista. With a masters in Classical Literature and a love of all things fashion, I’m living in the fabulous Notting Hill and reading and writing with my little Pomeranian to my heart’s content. What’s in your sketchbook? My puppy and images of amazing shoes! www.theclotheswhisperer.blogspot.com/ BRYONY LLOYD 23 - UK - Illustrator What are you doing at the moment? I am working freelance on some secret fashion projects, designing patterns and images for tops and dresses. What’s in your sketchbook? Sequins, sparkly moons and stars, pages of pattern and type. www.bryonylloyd.co.uk KATRINA MORE-MOLYNEUX 25 - UK - Photographer What are you doing at the moment? Currently I am testing and searching for a set designer to work with in order to challenge and further my visual language. It is important not to get too comfortable. I have just been exhibiting work at Spring Studios and the Richard Young Gallery and am now using up any spare time by assisting. What’s in your sketchbook? I have three photographers whose work I find are constant sources: Paolo Roversi, Cecil Beaton and Mari Mahr. There are always tickets from shows and exhibitions stuck in and quotes from people I speak to each day.


ALBERTO R. NEWTON

FLORA ROGERS

DUYGU TAVAN

SUSAN WALSH

24 - Colombia - Photographer What are you doing at the moment? Going to Colombia to establish my name as a fashion photographer in my hometown. Exhibiting my work in America, Italy and Spain. What’s in your sketchbook? Personal Thoughts, Drawings, and every single piece of inspiration I get my hands on. www.myspace.com/rojasnewton CHARLOTTE NICOD

23 - UK - Illustrator What are you doing at the moment? I’m currently interning at YCN whilst working on some personal projects involving tins. What’s in your sketchbook? Lamp posts, deer, trainers.. and a lot of to-do lists www.florarogers.com

22 - Turkey - Student What are you doing at the moment? I am enjoying my long summer holiday in London before I return to uni to finish my Journalism course.

20 - Ireland - Student What are you doing at the moment? enjoying the moment! What’s in your sketchbook? What isn’t?........

24 - UK - Graphic Designer What are you doing at the moment? Since graduating I am keeping creative! This year I have worked for the Big Issue Magazine and designed a book for James Caan (Dragons’ Den). What’s in your sketchbook? An explosion of color, collage, mixedmedia, intricate hand-drawn typefaces and passion.

HUGH O’MALLEY 34 - Ireland - Fashion and Beauty Photographer What are you doing at the moment? Working on a series of creative nudes... What’s in your sketchbook? I’m prepping for a number of editorial shoots. Concepts include ‘Midnight’, ‘Concrete’ and ‘Rain’ www.hughomalley.com

CLARE OWEN 23 - England, UK - Illustrator What are you doing at the moment? Selling soap part-time and drawing pictures part-time. I am looking forward to winter so I can wear wool and tights. What’s in your sketchbook? Cats, moustaches, patterns. www.clareowen.co.uk RUTH REYES 19 - Spain/United States - Student What are you doing at the moment? Writing and learning as much as I can when I’m off traveling and studying journalism at the London College of Communication. What’s in your sketchbook? Magazine clips, postcards with beautiful drawings or pictures and letters from friends and family abroad. www.ruthrebekahology.blogspot.com/

JORDAN SHIEL 20 - UK - Fashion Student / Freelance Stylist & Writer What are you doing at the moment? When I’m not researching for my final year Uni project, you will normally find me dancing around my room to a bit of Empire Of The Sun, with a cigarette in one hand and a Gin in the other. I’m currently in the process of setting up my own blog! So watch this space... What’s in your sketchbook? An endless collection of photos of the amazing Daphne Guinness...All Hail!

SVETLANA SOBCENKO 22 - Lithuania - Animation student What’s in your sketchbook? Usually I do sketches for my films, as a research material or character development. I like to observe people and situations around me; they inspire and let me explore everyday life in different way. What are you doing at the moment? Currently I’m doing work experience in a few places here in London. I’m working on a promotional video for a fashion networking website and I’m starting a new placement as an assistant for an artist promoting company. Moreover I’m trying to put together poetic comic strip as part of a creative collaboration with Orbita artists from Riga. www.flickr.com/photos/41335537@N06/

VICTORIA TAN 22 - Singapore - Student What are you doing at the moment? I’m anticipating graduation next year... and waiting for life to truly begin. What’s in your sketchbook? Research on artist Egon Schiele for my next magazine project.

JACK TEAGLE 22 - UK - Illustrator What are you doing at the moment? Looking to get my work across to people, painting and exhibiting my artwork. What’s in your sketchbook? Comics, Classic Horror Monsters, Kaiju, Fights, My Family, Skeletons, Animals, Wrestlers, Action and Adventure, The Mundane, and people. www.jackteagle.co.uk HELENA TEPLI 28 - Poland - Photographer What are you doing at the moment? I am shooting various photo-shoots across London What’s in your sketchbook? Lots of new ideas and opening my studio www.helenatepli.co.uk

DONYA TODD 22 - Devon - Freelance Illustrator What are you doing at the moment? Having just graduated, I like drawing, making up fruity stories, I like reading lovely strange books and I like knitting. What’s in your sketchbook? Dreams, pencil shavings, girlish secrets and terrible poetry. www.donyatodd.co.uk

REBECCA YAP 24 - Singapore - Post-grad student What are you doing at the moment? I’m all decked in red and white and about to rush out of my house to celebrate Singapore’s 44th birthday in style! What’s in your sketchbook? Self-created clothing designs I intend to get tailor-made a piece a month!

ANNA ZEJMO 30 - Poland - Illustrator What are you doing at the moment? I’m travelling through Peru and Ecuador, collecting impressions, getting inspired, having adventures, undergoing some changes. What’s in your sketchbook? My sketchbooks are an organized chaos. I`ve got plenty of them in different formats, different shapes - for different moods. You can find their faces, ornaments and patterns I catch up on the streets, loads of retro objects, fragments and fonts, anatomic stuff and some patterns copied from nature. www.myspace.com/annysense

JOHN PAUL THURLOW 37 - Great Britain - Art Director/ Pencilist What are you doing at the moment? Building a single speed bike + working for Rolex, Gucci and I Am Sound What’s in your sketchbook? 250 pieces of paper, magazine tears and perfume samples... www.johnpaulthurlow.blogspot.com/

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SANAA LANDING Slim steel poles and aluminum sheets in the form of a Floating Aluminum Cloud make up this year’s Serpentine Gallery Pavilion.

Text Mariam El-Banna Photography Iwan Baan

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A

FLOATING ALUMINUM CLOUD as described by the architect’s Kazuyo Sejima and Ryue Nishizawa is designed to float seamlessly through the trees to create a canopy that offers shade and respite to those walking through the park. Open space and open views unrestricted by walls is a refreshing design to the pavilion’s predecessors, especially since it’s actually built.

previous pavilions such as that designed by Olafur Eliasson and Kjetil Thorsen in 2007, it holds its own wonderfully.

Everyone finds themselves walking through from every angle — as of course there is no designated entrance — and stopping a few steps in just to pause and tilt their head upwards and meet their own reflection. Hands reach up to try and touch the reflective surface; some reach it and others miss by a few inches.

Until 18 October

Sleek, seamless and does exactly as was intended, it can be used, appreciated and experienced by anyone, no doubt making Park Night events even more atmospheric this year round.

Serpentine Gallery Kensington Gardens London, W2 3XA Open daily 10am-6pm, Admission is free

And yes, reflecting the park surroundings and the sky does indeed seem to allow the pavilion to ‘seamlessly’ sit as an extension of the park. However, on a particularly and often dull London day, reflected grey concrete and grim lighting only seems to add to the bleakness of a many unfortunate summer (and winter) days. One wonders if such a surface wouldn’t be more stunning on a bright, sunny and warm afternoon. Yet the subtle, delicate and sensitive design of the canopy cannot go unappreciated. Even the slim steel poles that at first may seem somewhat intrusive of the space at a distance, go by wholly unnoticed when sitting beneath the canopy’s shelter. It’s only when walking around that you find yourself naturally weaving around the poles with very little concern. And whilst it may not hold as architectural a splendor as

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Butler Bound Accessories and set designer Fred Butler knows no bounds. Here she chats to Sophie Eggleton about her latest creation, a film (in collaboration with Elisha Smith Laverok) presenting her A/W 09 collection, and how Fashion Film is paving the way as the new art form of the fashion industry Text Sophie Eggleton Photography Alberto Newton

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he fashion world consists of those who adorn latest ‘ititems’ as stated by the fashion glossies and enhanced by celebrity endorsements, others that will note or religiosity transpose trends summarized in post catwalk reports, tribes who prefer to adopt styles from by-gone eras or rebel against the consumer machine and opt for vintage, homemade or independent pieces. Then there are the style innovators or anomalies, who will neither follow nor disregard what’s ‘in’ but dress to the syncopated beat of their own fashion drum. Genuinely accidental trendsetting ensues, their ensembles garnering intrigued looks from the safe clotheshorses and admiring glances from the outlandish fashionistas. Accessories and set designer Fred Butler falls into the latter. Whilst she admits that her own dress sense veers away from the multicoloured hedonism of many of her pieces she feels that, ‘My accessories are open to everyone whereas my style is very personal and particular to my lifestyle.’ Her attire holds the same power as her unique sets and accessories, stirring voyeurs to steal second or third looks.

Fashion Film is only in its embryonic stage and it’s going to take over as the most effective art form for the industry in no time at all The 29-year-old’s acclaimed A/W 09 collection, Helocentric, saw her collaborate with Elisha Smith Laverok to make striking still and moving imagery, which alongside her trademark use of kaleidoscopic colours, saw a new concentration on metallics. “I had a happy accident using a left-over marathon blanket that was from an old set design job. I used it to make a oneoff accessory for a shoot and discovered that it did something special when treated in a certain way so decided to explore it further for my official collection. I always incorporate metallics in my work but this dictated a strong element of silver.” The project came into fruition after she was ‘lucky’ to receive much needed and sought after funding from NEW GENERATION.

The film, which is “not crucial but a privileged bonus” in Fred’s humble opinion, is an alternative method of kinetic display, away from the hysteria of catwalk theatrics. This is a medium which many fellow savvy designers and stylists have recognized as a great forum for creative possibilities, becoming an increasingly more attractive alternative to indulgent and exorbitant runway productions during this time of economic uncertainty. Awareness of Twitter, Facebook, MySpace et al are fast becoming vital ingredients to success of those in artistic industries-valid and accessible arenas for creative ventures as well as great marketing tools. “That is the beauty of having the Internet now, so that work carries on living after the initial presentation. Fashion Film is only in its embryonic stage and it’s going to take over as the most effective art form for the industry in no time at all. Although a runway show is exciting, film is a more practical way to realize your concept to reach the widest audience possible”. Collaborations have lead to some of fashion and art’s greatest and most iconic visions and involve mutual respect, something that Fred more than understands. “Elisha works with choreographer Chloe and I to put total trust in their working relationship to design this part of the production. For the first time I tried to take a back seat and hand over decision making to the different collaborators within their role. Although I am a megalomaniac in some respects I think that it is important to have faith in who you work with and not dominate their contribution. Then everyone shines and the purest and most unexpected work is achieved.” The aforementioned dancing, which veered between Bollywood and Ballet - mystified with a smoke machine - is accompanied by music which resulted in the amalgamation of ideas stemming from Fred, Elisha, creative consultant Alex Cunningham and stylist Kim Howells. Rio En Medio’s accompanying stripped back style was discovered via MySpace. Tinkling sound mixed in for the credits to echo the use of bells in the collection. Dancing has always had a place in Fred’s life, as “it’s a form of therapy for my wellbeing. Therefore it’s integral to my work too. My degree show at graduate fashion week was choreographed using dancers instead of models. So when new collaborators suggested the idea 6 years later for the Ballerina collection, it made perfect sense to go in that direction again.” As with most creative processes, experimentation is necessary and innate for imagination-ors and perfectionists like Fred, happily enabling implementation of quality control. ‘I never know what is going to happen when I start testing out ideas and that is the beauty and adrenaline in inventing and creating. So what happens to the less successful forays?” If I can control myself and stop giving everything away as presents, I try to keep prototypes. Sometimes I give up on something if it isn’t working out the way I hoped, but I like to persist and revisit a technique. I never know what is going to happen when I start testing out ideas and that is the beauty and adrenaline in inventing and creating.” To deliver prints that capture the colour schemes which ‘subconsciously’ stem from artefacts from our play time when we were ‘impressionable’ youngsters, (The Rubik’s cube, Spiro-graphs and Kaleidoscopes come to mind) Fred has once again sought collaboration for this task in the shape of the print/ textile designer Brie Harrison.


I make everything myself. That is crucial to my craft. Therefore sourcing fabric is quite traumatic because I never find anything that lives up to my expectations. I end up doing a lot of hand-painting and dyeing and foiling

”I make everything myself. That is crucial to my craft. Therefore sourcing fabric is quite traumatic because I never find anything that lives up to my expectations. I end up doing a lot of handpainting and dyeing and foiling. Designing my own pattern was the most logical progression and so I approached my friend Brie to collaborate on this part. I showed her my initial mood and experiments and she went away and played around with her interpretation through print. We chose a selection from her options and had them printed as a large test strip, which I spliced up to, look like patchwork in the final pieces. It was a section of the collection that I wanted to make more accessible and possible to reproduce for production. This is why we decided on digital print.’

Throughout my conversation with Fred, it’s clear that she knows exactly what she wants to achieve and she is unfaltering in her dedication to delivering it. As well as maintaining a quality and theme she generally turns to craft to put her ideas into form, one of the most prevalent being the ancient traditional Japanese art form, Origami. “I love making papercuts and collect interesting paper to use for these collages. It just so happens that Origami paper is the best and the packets usually contain a sheet of instructions to make something. Out of curiosity I tried some of them out and as a result got hooked on the craft!” Alongside this she uses international embroidery, patchwork and quilting often teaching herself from well-worn books found in charity shops and flea markets. I wonder if the handmade nature dictates that she isn’t looking to reach a wide audience but I am assured this isn’t the case. “I like to create new surface patterns and textures from fabric manipulation. I would love to translate that to larger production and have a diffusion line in addition to the bespoke pieces that are made in-house and of a higher price-point. It think its hilarious that if someone buys one of my accessories they probably don’t realise that I have actually hand-made it myself!” So apart from dreaming of the diffusion line, what’s next for Fred? Will she be making another of her stunning films? “I was incredibly lucky to receive funding from the New Gen award to make the film. I would love to do another so it all depends on whether I get the same opportunity again.”.......... So, New Gen, if you are listening...

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Vogue Diaries Fashion editor Kirstin Knox shares her daunting tales of hyperventilating PR’s, avalanches of Louboutin returns and the decadent Russians at Vogue House headquarters. Text Kristin Knox Illustrations Jade Cummings

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ogue International is the fashion only (i.e. all shoots all the time and virtually no editorial) home of Vogues India and Russia as well as Russian Glamour and Tatler with Vogue Turkey on the way. The reason it exists is because while, for example, Vogue Russia has its own offices in Moscow where all the main editorial and advertising work is done, precocious PRs and cash-strapped press offices in general won’t ship off their beloved samples to be shot anywhere beyond the traditional axis of fashion for (justified) fear that they will never see them again. Not to mention, there’s the additional cost. Thus Conde Nast, being the titans of consumer media that they are, brought Mumbai and Moscow to Central London, converging on a sort of international style production hub, if you will, for stylists, fashion editors, assistants, and of course, the clothes themselves, who bring the pages of their respective magazines to life.

Week 1 Monday, 1:30PM, lunch: My first few hours at Vogue have been unexpectedly quiet; it seems that I have arrived in the middle of an awkward in-between time in editorial shooting schedules, the post fashion week slump. With the last remnants of SS09 swept from the cupboard and fashion editors passing their days crunching the contents of the AW09 shows on Style.com so as to plot their next move, there is nothing to do but wait. There are three of us in there, myself and two girls whom we will call S and T, so finding tasks to keep us all amused is proving a bit of a challenge.

Tuesday, 1:30PM, lunch: They’re rioting in the streets and Vogue’s on lockdown! Not on Bond Street, per se, but Conde Nast knows these G20 protestors (G20 as in Gucci Group 20 perhaps?) are out for fashion capitalist blood. So far I haven’t even seen so much as a leaf stir on Oxford Street. My hunch is they’re all too busy wielding Birkenstocks down at RBS to come up here and demonstrate against our excessive Jimmy Choo habits.

6:00 PM, after work: Finally something exciting to do! One of the editorial assistants asked me to go 14

with her on a little shoot this afternoon to get an image to accompany an interview she did with Zafar Rushdie, son of Salman. On location in a bar in Chelsea (apparently he’s a big man about town, promotes A-list clubs and the like, just like dear old dad). Ok, it’s not a four-day/ five-model extravaganza in the Caribbean—but still, if it’s Vogue and there’s a photographer, count it!

Friday, 4:00PM: T and I just went out back the boondocks of Vogue House to spray-paint a poster-board DayGlo yellow. Glamour Russia is doing a shopping spread on spring neons and they needed a faux-graffiti background for the still-life shoot. But given that we only had one can of paint which sputtered to its death after defacing only half a board, it's pretty safe to say that our masterpiece won't be gracing the newsstands of St. Petersburg anytime soon.

They’re rioting in the streets and Vogue’s on lockdown! Not on Bond Street, per se, but Conde Nast knows these G20 protestors (G20 as in Gucci Group 20 perhaps?) are out for fashion capitalist blood ... My hunch is they’re all too busy wielding Birkenstocks down at RBS to come up here and demonstrate against our excessive Jimmy Choo habits


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The amount of stuff that has started pouring in here today—Louboutins by the boatload, treasure boxes jampacked with gems both fine and costume, and enough fur to send PETA into anaphylactic shock

Week 2 Monday, 6:00PM, after work:

Friday, 2:00PM, lunch:

Oh the tranquility of the empty closet of Friday last! We have officially kicked off our AW09 shooting schedule and I have glimpsed firsthand just how decadent those Russians (or stylists adorning the covers of magazines thereof ) can be. Vogue Russia’s fashion director has just begun the process of calling in looks for two feature shoots for the August issue he’ll be doing over the Easter weekend in New York. The amount of stuff that has started pouring in here today— Louboutins by the boatload, treasure boxes jam-packed with gems both fine and costume, and enough fur to send PETA into anaphylactic shock. We ran out of space within an hour, but that didn’t stop more from coming.

The avalanche continues! Stray requests straggling in having missed last night’s epic shipment make me want to bash them in with the nearest pair of eight-inch mock-croc Galliano platforms! But for all the griping, we do get to dig into boxes of the new season’s choice goodies straight from the runway—an inflatable Giles jacket, fuzzy ape arms and even a Gareth Pugh suit covered in nails. Even if I have to turn right around and stuff it into a different box, the proximity to the latest looks still retaining that catwalk smell reminds me of why exactly it is I slave to do what I do. I’m beginning to get a picture in my head of what the shoot will be like, with all the pieces in now, it’s starting to come together. Wish I could be there. God I can’t wait for the long Easter weekend…

Thursday, 9:00PM, after work: Longest day ever…didn’t even have time for lunch! Today, we were engaged in a deadlock race against time to get the esteemed director’s myriad of requests boxed and ready to board a plane to New York by the time the couriers showed up at 7PM. And as if that wasn’t enough, each item to trans-Atlanticify in the name of Russian Vogue had to be typed up on a proforma invoice for US customs. With no single item to exceed £3 in “value” (not even diamond encrusted Manolos or a hand-beaded Julien MacDonald evening column), it took some creative maneuvering to describe some of the items e.g. £5K Alessandro Dell’ Acqua mink mini skirt became “100% polyester fuzzy skirt.” Can I climb into along with and go down on the proforma as “wannabe fashion editor, 100% zealous intern, £2”? 16


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Week 3 Wednesday, 1:30PM, lunch: They’re coming back today. The shoot has shot and we’ve already started fending off the first PRs sniffing around for their returns. It doesn’t help that we’re in the midst of press day and ad campaign shooting season—no one wants to spare a look for more than 24 hours. But this is Vooogue, dahhhling. They, just like us, will just have to wait… Wednesday, 5:30 PM, after work: So we waited and waited, bracing ourselves for the onslaught. But they never came. A quick phone call to Quick Couriers later, it turned out that our shipment had been bumped from its flight and won’t be reaching us till morning. Oops.

Friday, 2 PM, lunch: They’ve arrived…like an ominous beige flood of cardboard, taking nearly an hour to unload into the office. We are literally boxed into the cupboard—boxes stacked up the ceiling, spilling out into the hall, around the corner, shoved every which-way… it’s utter chaos. The phone’s ringing off the hook with hyperventilating PRs on the eve of their press days. Better make this lunch a quick one. Friday, 9PM, after work: Just leaving the office, after a long frantic day, we finally got the clothes (for the most part) sorted. Individually bagged by designer and/or PR agency, all for the courier ride home on Monday. But you know what they say: when god hangs up a Dior gown he dumps 10,000 necklaces in front of you. In 18

our triumphant haze over the RTW disaster, we had entirely forgotten about the pile of accessory boxes stashed around the corner. Don’t even get me started on the shoes. I never thought I’d ever say this, but there are too many. God only knows what else we’ll find in there, like this bizarre bejeweled bird whose role in the shoot one can only imagine (he is cool though). I wonder what they did shoot in the end…guess I’ll just have to wait along with the rest of the world to find out when the issue goes to print in July! Thus wraps up my time at Vogue Russia. And I tell you, the view from the inside is just as daunting as from the out: it’s a long, grueling way to the top. So why do we do it? The long, thankless hours? The pitiful pay? Well, because it’s Vogue, of course!


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All American Photography Alberto Newton

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In the Name of Fashion Photography Alberto Newton Styling Womenswear Ila Benavides / Diana Escobar Styling Menswear Mauricio Fonegra Make-up Vivian Saler Hair Styling Camilo Villotas Models La Agencia Models Management

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Jacket Andrea PĂŠrez

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Models Diana Lemus/Juan Sebastian


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Fashion blogosphere deblogged Amy Nightingale unclogs the drains of the overnight global sensation that is fashion blogging and what you need to know to become the next Susie Bubble

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blog therefore I am. Blogging is becoming part of the modern person’s sub consciousness; before breakfast, squeeze it in at lunch, dash one out after dinner, blogging is the new quickie. In the last 24 hours out of the 112,144,927 blogs on the Internet, 87,582 of them were created in the last 24 hours and 441 new posts have since been added. What are all these beavering Internet nerds blogging about you might pause to wonder, probably topless girls and the latest gadgets you dismiss them with. Wrong on both accounts. When googling blog topics, ‘fashion blog’ brings up a total of 102,000,000 results, and almost every top fashion journalist has got themselves their own little pocket of cyberspace on which to inform, astonish and entertain their adoring fashion-loving fans. If you have been left in the dark about this global sensation of blogging and when you hear the word ‘blog’ all it brings to mind is an onomatopoeic range of noises similar to a blocked drain, perhaps it would be helpful to know that the word blog derives from ‘web log’. Web logs are pages of links and are what blogs originally evolved from, though before this family tree of internet use becomes more complex than a Dickens’s novel of who’s related to whom, a definition is in need of. Where better to receive such wisdom then from the most popular blog set up site, blogger.com: ‘A blog is a personal diary. A daily pulpit. A collaborative space. A political soapbox. A breaking-news outlet. A collection of links. Your own private thoughts. Memos to the world. Your blog is whatever you want it to be. There are millions of them, in all shapes and sizes, and there are no real rules. In simple terms, a blog is a website, where you write stuff on an ongoing basis. New stuff shows up at the top, so your visitors can read what’s new. Then they comment on it or link to it or email you.’ The fashion industry is incredibly hierarchical and ruled with a rod of iron by a few austere women; if Miuccia Prada shows us that severe black bobbed hair is in, we obediently get our hair chopped. Similarly, if Anna Wintour were to feature obese models in couture, we would all be joining the McDonald’s morning queue. Though magazine subscriptions are now considered outdated to some, they are a thing of curiosity and fashion readers are not only turning to the internet to be informed about the latest fashion news, but are themselves becoming the editors of the fashion industry and sitting in the first few rows of major fashion shows. 36

To become a fashion journalist all it takes is an Internet connection and an opinion. Educational qualifications, experience and age are no longer important, though to get a following, receive comments and to be considered a first port of call for fashion information, grammar, accuracy and a generous dose of personality will gain you credibility and a name in the industry. The previous nobodies who have made a classic rags-toriches story and are now on every fashionista’s radar include the irrepressible Susie Lau of her ‘Stylebubble’ blog. Formerly a fashion outsider with just an obsessive passion for anything fashion related, Susie began publishing her inner ramblings on a blog in 2006 and has since been accepted into the pearly gates of true fashion heaven. She was the second ever blogger to receive a ticket to a Gucci show and now regularly attends the truly royal Chanel and Lanvin shows, but perhaps more importantly she has become a fashion insider as the Commissioning Editor of Dazed & Confused’s Dazed Digital website. The slightly wickedly delicious and sinfully delightful side to fashion blogging is its level of un-censorship. If you have ever pored over pictures of celebrities with friends and bitched yourselves senseless over their lack of fashion style, then you are most likely already following the inimitable queen of gossip, Perez Hilton on his blog. Perez’s website has been termed ‘Hollywood’s most-hated website’ for his outing of rumoured gay celebrities and childish slating of celebrities’ style. Another equally bitchy blog is ‘go fug yourself’, which is run by catty twosome Jessica Morgan and Heather Cocks, and is based around pointing out celebrities who make being fugly the new pretty. A lovely rose tinted light is cast over the blogosphere when you think in terms of its endless possibilities of democratisation, as Chris Hunt, founder of a relatively new London centric fashion and lifestyle weblog ‘modelsandmoguls’ comments, ‘It’s going to be increasingly easy for people to access blogs and other websites in the future as mobile devices offering a rich browsing experience become more common and we move in to the era of ubiquitous computing... the good thing about blogs are that they are free for the readers and that breaks down one major barrier to accessibility.’ It seems in blogosphere, previous obstacles are side stepped and those previously without a voice, such as thirteen-year-old Tavi from Mid Western America and blogger of ‘Style Rookie’, who was featured as Teen Vogue‘s blogger of


It is the personal, the mundane, the opinionated and the routine, mixed with a dose of glamorous fashion yearnings and a natural eye for fashion, which makes for a truly addictive blog. Fashion bloggers are our friends, our gossip partners in crime, they lust what we lust over and best of all they never tire of discussing the fleeting, ephemeral and glittery world of fashion, even if it’s 3am UK time

the moment, can become fashion experts, commenting on the likes of Rodarte or the latest Comme Des Garcons collection and most recently, gracing the cover of POP Magazine. The bloggers mentioned all have personality by the bucket load and are a mine of fashion information, but what has made them such Internet sensations? It’s simple: they are fashion geeks. Though this is no longer a criticism, as being a cyber geek can make you famous and even make you money. Tavi is one of only five fashion bloggers, including Susie Lau, to have teamed up with Borders&Frontiers, an organic cotton t-shirt company to produce her own designs. The Go Fug Yourself girls now cover Fashion Week for The New York Magazine and Susie Lau and Perez Hilton are celebrated outsiders within the fashion world. And this year’s S/S 2010 fashion weeks clearly proved the power and influence of fashion bloggers with the likes of Garance Dore, The Sartorialist’s Scott Schuman, Bryanboy and Jak & Jil’s Tommy Ton seated front row at Dolce & Gabbana, next to Anna Wintour, tweeting away live to their followers on laptops set up especially for them.

Illustrations The Sartorialist Matilda Huang Jak & Jil Anna Zejmo Notes by Naïve Flora Rogers Fashion Toast Claire Owen

What makes these fashion bloggers different to all the other millions of bloggers is their transparency and dedication to fashion and their readers. To be a successful blogger, you have to let your readers into your life your wardrobe, and more importantly, update update update. At least twice a week, Tavi uploads straight up photos of herself in her quirky ensembles that she wears to school and is likely to conjure up an average of 57 people commenting on her outfit. It is Tavi’s unusual fearless style and her personable sense of writing which endears her to her followers. ‘Not much to say today. I have 23 mosquito bites, need a haircut, and the grocery store no longer carries the freeze pops that are basically the ESSENCE of summer.’ It is the personal, the mundane, the opinionated and the routine, mixed with a dose of glamorous fashion yearnings and a natural eye for fashion, which makes for a truly addictive blog. Fashion bloggers are our friends, our gossip partners in crime, they lust what we lust over and best of all they never tire of discussing the fleeting, ephemeral and glittery world of fashion, even if it’s 3am UK time.

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Susie Lau: A Bubble Not To Be Popped Interview Mariam El-Banna

Illustrations June Chanpoomidole

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ith society firmly set in a digital and online age, the fashion industry, like many others, has slowly caught up with the idea of ‘blogging’ and the wave of new online media. Slowly being accepted as an influential form of media, Susie Bubble of Style Bubble otherwise known as Susanna Lau, was one of the first fashion bloggers to be recognised by the fashion industry. Since her blog in 2006 she has documented not only her thoughts about fashion, but has shared with us an insight into her own personal style as wellas keeping many of us up-to-date with the fashion world and its idiosyncrasies. And true to form, the day I met up with Susie, her style didn’t fail to impress. Dressed in a new motorcycle jacket by Luxirare (a blogger and designer that Susie has recently been blogging about herself) of nude mesh and silvery grey panels, it became an epicentre and huge talking point for both her blog and us. The jacket itself was to be the focal point of her outfit and thus wasn’t matched with ‘statement’ garments, but instead paired with a sheer pale green Topshop dress and Toa knitted shorts, playing on a colourful array of pastels. Personally being a bit of a v fanatic myself, whilst I was heartily disappointed that there were no killer heels to match, I could still appreciate the subtleness of pairing an outlandish outfit with a demure pair of neon-lined grey ballet flats, having such an intricately designed jacket speak for itself. Three years on and the once Visual Advertiser is now part of the Dazed online team, and her ‘hobby’ of blogging has now become a very fundamental part of her life. And whilst many would believe the progression from online blogger to ‘fashion insider’ a natural and almost glorious progression, it was never a conscious thought for Susie, who thought the most natural progression was her move from ‘Muji notebook and forum contributor’ to her own online blog. “Fashionality and Diane Pernet’s A Shaded View on Fashion, are blogs that spurred me to do my own, and it became a place to share my thoughts and document my experiences with fashion as well as document my own personal style.” Despite there now being a wave of thousands of bloggers that have caught the online media by storm, Susie is still reputedly one of the more recognised. But in her own humble opinion she by no means feels she’s the ‘exception’. And whilst it is of course difficult to gauge the actual impact her blog has had, there’s no doubt that it has subsequently opened many doors of opportunity.

several fashion events, the latest being The Lichting 2009 in Amsterdam alongside an impressive international panel (including Wendy Dagworthy from the RCA, Lucas Ossendrijver of Lanvin Homme and fashion blogger & photographer, Garance Dore), as well as giving talks in places such as the Apple Store on Regent Street and London College of Fashion (LCF), thus being recognised by international universities as a credible resource. Even if Susie doesn’t feel she’s the exception, there’s no doubt a sense of uniqueness to her blog that shows her to be an allround and eclectic individual, with a particular flare for fashion. With an average of at least 1-3 posts a day, her blog posts range from images of her own bargain hunts and newly purchased garments, to the latest trends from her travels before they hit the catwalk; as well as a plethora of vintage fair visits, interviews and film edits. Like the fashion she indulges in, her blog leaves you spoilt for choice and there’s never a dull moment. And whilst some may bare the grudge that Susie was given everything on a silver platter just for expressing an opinion (because who doesn’t have an opinion?), they may not be aware that the hard work from reporting for fashion156.com, as well as the credibility gained from a writing portfolio at other leading fashion magazines eventually led to her well-deserved position as Editor of Dazed Digital.

I’ve never had a moment where I’ve seen someone and thought, I want to be [dressed] exactly like that person, because as a kid I wanted to be everyone. People like Claudia Kishi, or a random actress on a Cantonese soap opera...or a member of Shampoo.

As it was through her blog that her opinion became most credited, this was also emphasised by the fact that her presence has been requested as a judge/panellist at 45


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SUSSIE BUBBLE

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It’s funny because even though I’m mentioned as an ‘insider’ I still feel like an outsider - when I go to fashion events and shows I sometimes still think ‘I’m not supposed to be here…

But it hasn’t all been smooth sailing for the online blogger. In her early months of 2006 she had received a few negative criticisms that seemed to attack her personally. “I’ve learnt to deal with criticism better over the last three years, but I still get defensive but that’s very natural to me. Ever since I was a kid, why a 98% and not 100%, why B+ and not A-.” And only in April this year, her blog on Pam Hogg entitled ‘Hogg Roast’ had aroused equally negative responses from the designer. It caused quite the controversy where many frequenters of Style Bubble were compelled to comment, more so than any other post in her blog. “…I felt that it went beyond the main issue and really shed light on how fashion bloggers are received. It was to the point where people started to see that it was set up as us (fashion bloggers and general people) vs them (fashion industry and designers). And it was disappointing to see how established designers were so controlling over their public image and how their clothes are seen. Especially when it’s everyone else that’s discussing and wearing their designs.”

And the future of Style Bubble? Well for now it seems that it’s here to stay for as long as possible and Susie is more than happy for that to be the case. “But I’m happy to be doing what I’m doing and hope it will continue that way.” With many exciting prospects in her future, there seems little chance of Style Bubble becoming redundant any time soon. But what’s certain is that the impact that Susie and her blog have had on the fashion industry has been a three-year eye opener. And whilst fashion blogging is still something of a niche, it’s a niche she has an edge on; reading over 100+ blogs a day, hundreds of magazines a month and breathing in fashion from all angles of her life. No doubt the next three years will open the floodgates to many other industries. www.stylebubble.typepad.com

When asked now if being a fashion ‘insider’ has changed her view of fashion and the industry in anyway, she is quick to point out that she still doesn’t feel like she’s quite in. “It’s funny because even though I’m mentioned as an ‘insider’, I still feel like an outsider, when I go to fashion events and shows I sometimes still think ‘I’m not supposed to be here… And there are aspects of the industry that I don’t like, but now understand why they’re there, even if I don’t agree.” Yet despite that recent flash of negativity, Susie, amongst a group of other major fashion bloggers, was invited on an all-expenses paid trip to Paris for Chanel’s catwalk show in 2007, and more recently, one of only two bloggers to attend Gucci’s UNICEF Bash in New York, and covering all major London Fashion Week shows for S/S 2010, including the hottest ticket of the season, Burberry, bringing to light how the fashion industry is readily acknowledging fashion bloggers; though it is still an ‘invite’ into the world rather than a gate-crashing. Susie is still very much dedicated and in love with fashion. And despite having had to sacrifice a lot of personal time, she’s still very happy to keep incorporating her blog into her life, “because it is essentially part of my life at the moment.” Though her writing style hasn’t changed over the last three years, the variety of her content has certainly expanded, as well as the style. Early images of her outfits were taken with her face covered or hidden from view, but this slowly changed; as Susie became more expressive and acknowledged in the industry, as does her face in her more recent pictures. Quintessentially, the blog may be seen as something of a self-reflection for Susie, whose posts have flourished and developed as she has. 49


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MODERN DAY GLAM GIRL

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Ruth Reyes uncovers the glam of the underground scene from Katja Hentschel, party photographer, street style blogger, and hostess of the night. Text Ruth Reyes Interview Jordan Shiel Illustration Stephanie Durrant

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n the heart of the underground clubbing scene in London, Glamcanyon is establishing itself as ‘the’ place to get messy. Organised by fashion photographer and blogger Katja Hentschel, all those in attendance have one thing in common,they dress to impress! Luckily for us though, Katja is there on the night snapping away with her SLR and documenting the night’s proceedings on her blog the next day. The night takes advantage of the London creative types, in a scene resembling the Richard Mortimer Boombox era a few years back or even Studio 54; it is a haven for those who aren’t fond of standing in the background. Katja manages to immerse herself amongst the crowds capturing personalities, outfits and moments along the way, and that’s exactly what her images portray...moments. Moments which highlight a small demographic of our generation who stick two fingers up to the conventions of what is viewed as ‘normal’ night time attire and instead, they put the originality and entertainment back into getting dressed up for a night on the tiles. The blog Katja has created to coincide with the club night is a significant expression of Katja’s enthusiasm in encouraging our generation to follow in the footsteps of these daring party goers and fully express ourselves through the medium of crazy fashion, without taking into considering the critical opinions of those who choose not to understand. It is Katja’s passion for discovering individuals with an outlandish sense of style that has meant her photography has translated successfully from nightclub to day time. Having managed to develop herself as a street style photographer, she manages to capture the unique fashions of people from London to Berlin, whilst encompassing her love for all things different. How do you capture and document the party scene? It’s really important to me to capture the moment. Sometimes I’ll encourage certain behaviour, but not posing. I like my photos to be spontaneous and candid. I take pictures for people who were not at the party. I like to capture more a mood than just the people in it. Why do you choose to document people in parties? I don’t know really, it’s not that important to me that they look great, they can have one eye closed and a stupid smile, what matters is the moment and the feel. I’ve always had a thing for parties, I’ve always wanted to party more than I could. Growing up in a small town in Germany there was nothing. I’m catching up on my youth---I could only experience this through photos and TV and always really wanted to party. I just always thought that it was good thinking to documenting parties and youth

culture. I’m excited about looking back in 30 years from now and thinking wow, I was a part of that. Many other photographers concentrate on one thing. You have many different types of photography, different styles and subjects. Why is that? Are there any particular styles you are particularly fond of? I wish I could concentrate on one thing! It’s just what happened, really. I’ve always been someone of varying interests, good at many things and gets bored pretty quickly. I know there’s so much more in me to give to concentrate on one thing I think. I don’t think we have to make a choice anymore. It would be good for lay out and concentration, but I think I can’t decide between the two, I want both. So fuck it, I’ll do both. And if it’s a little messy or confusing I just think fuck you, I do what I want. How has blogging contributed to your work professionally? I have a degree in psychology but I realised I could live off photography through the blog. Its been a rise and rise really, I have a job with the biggest local paper here in Berlin, have a column with them and work for Vice and other international magazines. There’s a lot of attention on bloggers, especially here in Berlin. We are contacted a lot by advertisers and PR and they set up exhibitions and projects. My main jobs have come from people seeing my work on my blog and then contacting me. What does your blog mean to you? What affect has it had on your career? I have never been someone who likes to attach myself to one thing. It’s a part of me, but its not that important. I wouldn’t crumble to pieces or feel as if I’ve lost an arm or a leg if it was taken away. It’s just a phase, it’s a tool, a project and it’s helped me grow as a person. Something I’ve learned is the way photography is a tool that I discovered for myself to grow and be who I’ve become. It was a fortunate thing I came across it, its taught me discipline, got my act together and to be more confident. I can go to a party by myself now and take pictures, meet people. Personal growth is the biggest achievement I’m attaching to my blog. Probably in the next 2 or 3 years I might quit it. I don’t really have any plans, I’m just open to seeing what’s next and moving on with the next thing. I’ve studied psychology so I think of things in the process of next steps and how we get there. So my blog is just a tool to get there to the next step and I’m open to what’s next. What do you think your images say about the youth culture today? About our time and present so to speak? We like to drink and party and get wasted. People like to have a good time, and people are open to having their picture taken. In London it wasn’t a problem at all, but in Germany people are slowly becoming more open to it. Sometimes they’ll look away. But people are becoming more accepting and open and its cool that I get to be a part of that in Berlin. I’m basically the only party photographer in Berlin at the moment so I’m leading the way and it’s cool to be that too. www.katjahentschel.com www.glamcanyon.com


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Coco Lady Photographer Katrina More-Molyneux Model Sarah More-Molyneux Hair Neil Ward at Patrick Ludde

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Khalo Photographer Gina Amama Fashion designer Sarmite Ostanevica Model Margo@Premie

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THE COVETED’S JENNINE TAMM

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Rebecca Yap chats to Jennine Tamm, founder of ‘The Coveted’ and Independant Fashion Blogger, a fashion resource for members of fashion Industry Interview Rebecca Yap Image Stephanie Durrant

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dream job, a shopping addiction and a passion for blog reading were the catalysts that led 34-year-old Californian, Jennine Tamm, to create her fashion blog, The Coveted, in 2007. “I had been interested in blogs since about 2002 when I heard people were keeping ‘diaries’ online. I even tried starting an online diary, but my daily life really isn’t that interesting,” said Jennine. Almost three years on, the combination of the three gave her “a purpose, a subject and a passion” to keep blogging and constantly improving her blog. Fashion blogging only became a full-time job for her when she found time after moving to Germany with her husband (then boyfriend).

For now, she will be taking a short break by making Americanstyled pancakes for brunch! Follow Jennine and you might get a peek at her most coveted wardrobe item – her unique pale wedding dress designed by Berlin based designer, Jennifer Gilpin. www.the-coveted.com

Armed with necessities – a computer, a DSLR for feature photos, a point and shoot camera ‘just in case’, a video device, photo editing software, and coffee, Jennine gives readers the “latest scoop on sustainable fashion, beauty trends, eco-beauty, vintage clothing, emerging designers, and how fashion and beauty relate to personal style.” She constantly looks for fashion inspirations and ways to reinvent her wardrobe (we particularly like how she turned a gaucho into a one-shoulder dress) and contemporize vintage pieces. Diane Pernet, Susie Bubble, and Queen Michelle from Kingdom of Style are other fashion bloggers that inspire her. The London College of Communications graduate is also the founder of Independent Fashion Blogger (IFB) – a resource and community of fashion bloggers. She recently put together the Dress-up parties for IFB for New York and London Fashion Week. “It was so great to see all the other bloggers I had been reading for years. I can’t wait to do the NYFW Dress up party this September,” said Jennine. Some of the fashion bloggers have become some of her best friends over the years. For Jennine, blogging is a ritual. She faithfully blogs five days a week and on rare occasions, on the weekends. “There are so many things to write about, and so little time to actually post. I usually don’t have a problem coming up with a post, so even if I want to take the day off (and I do) I must make sure I put in an hour to post something,” remarks Jennine. She usually tries to get one post out by noon CET (Central European Time) and another for her US audience between 9am EST or 12pm EST, which is 9am for her “West Coast lovelies”. 69


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WITH DIRTYGLAM’S

ANTONIA BLECHINGBERG

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Founder of online magazine Dirtyglam, 17-year-old Finnish Antonia Blechingberg tells us why blogging will always be a part of her life. Interview Duygu Tavan Illustration Jade Cummings

When and why did you start blogging?

What are you up to at the moment?

I started my first blog about 2 years ago, but on Dirtyglam I’ve been blogging for almost 1 year now. I started blogging because I wanted a place to collect my thoughts and my inspirational photos. So I thought, why not share this with others?

Nothing special actually. But I have promised my readers and myself to start taking more pictures of myself for the blog.

How has your blog changed your life? I’ve got many new lovely friends, offers, opportunities and knowledge of fashion, etc. I really can’t imagine my life without blogging. And now I really know that it’s fashion I want to work with when I’m older. What areas of your life have been most affected, positively and negatively? I don’t see many negative things with blogging. The only negative is that it sometimes affects my education. You know, when you blog instead of doing what you should be doing. Do you feel a certain pressure to maintain your blog even when you want to take a day off from the whole thing? Not really. If I don’t feel like blogging it’s better to take a day off. Otherwise my posts get really boring. How do you cope with the pressure of maintaining your blog every day? Before I had huge pressures on me, I wanted to update my blog all the time, but the posts got really bad and uninteresting. But nowadays I only update my blog when I have something I really want to show or say. How much of your time does fashion blogging consume? It depends. But I spend like 4-6 hours a day on the computer. Reading blogs, searching for inspirational images, reading fashion news and blogging, etc. So sure it takes some time, but I think it’s fun. So it doesn’t really matter that it takes time. Fashion bloggers are a strange breed. Do you have any of your own weird blogging quirks? I wouldn’t say that I have any weird blogging quirks. Or I can’t think of any. I just go for it. What time of day do you usually blog and where? I love to blog in the evenings and on the nights. I love the peace and quiet. I prefer to blog on my own computer in my own house. But blogging at a café with an ice-cold coca cola is not bad either.

Fashion blogging is fast becoming a recognized media to view fashion, what do you think will be the next new technology? That’s a really difficult question. I’ve never thought about that. Right now I just think that fashion blogs are going to get even bigger and more sensitive. Name 6 must-have items for your blogging kit ( what you need to blog). My computer of course, inspiring images, thoughts and reflections, time!! (I hate to write posts in a hurry) A blogging mood, something to eat or drink haha. And music, that’s it. 10 top favorite spots in the summer and why? The beach, my summer cottage, south Europe, my big balcony where I take in the sun and eat BBQ food with my friends, summer parties, sailboat, the archipelago, flea markets, cozy summer café and outdoor restaurants. Why? All the spots scream summer. What has been your star moment as a blogger so far? Some offers I’ve got. And some friends I’ve become really close to thanks to the blog. Another important thing to me is that my low self-confidence has improved because of my adorable readers. Style icons? I really like Mary-Kate Olsen, Alexa Chung and Tallulah Morton. Who do you follow? I follow up to 100 blogs. But my favorite blogs are anywho (anywho.cover.dk),monjolie (monjolie.blogspot.com), Linn Gustafsson (pause.se/bloggar/linn-gustafsson/) and 4th and bleeker (4thandbleekeragency.blogspot.com) What is your most coveted item in your wardrobe? It’s my leather jacket I bought last fall from H&M. I use it about every day. With about everything.

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In Africa: A Rosspective Julia Morgan taps into photographer Ross Mytton’s mind about his passage through West Africa Interview Julia Morgan Photography Ross Mytton

Me in Mali 2009 Nikon D80 Location: Somewhere near the Burkina Faso/Mali border I made my overland journey carrying only my camera bag and one small market sack. It’s liberating to be able to carry everything you need with you.


:Dogon Kids 2009 Nikon D80

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hen you hear about charities in Africa, a universal image comes to mind. Famine, disease, violence and death. It was these preconceptions that found the Chapter 58 Trust gain a new volunteer from the world of photography. The only difference to the norm being that this photographer chose to avoid the typical gloom and doom that is spread across the news, and instead, decide for himself about the conditions in West Africa. So what did their new recruit learn? That despite the misery portrayed to us in western countries, day-today life still sees people singing in the streets, dancing and generally enjoying life. What a refreshing outlook on a country that has seen so much pain in its lifespan. It could be seen as somewhat ironic that as an American, who comes from a country that is surrounded by preconceptions, the photographer in question is so desperate to shatter the misunderstood lives of those in Third World Countries. “I like to decide for myself. I’ve always enjoyed the power of an image and how it can tell a story. For me, it’s about representing a place as I see it, not by what’s in the news.”

Ross Mytton is the photographer in question and, when I finally get to talk to him, he is nothing like the typical American you hear about. At the moment he is spending a brief spell, just a couple of months, in his home country before heading to Barcelona in September to begin an MBA. It should be noted that Mytton speaks both fluent French and Spanish and wants to learn Mandarin for a trip to Asia. Having lived in Spain for 2 and a 1/2 years before heading to Africa, and openly saying he has no intention of grounding in America for at least 10 to 15 years, Mytton finds it more rewarding to live in a country for an extended period of time and absorb the culture and lifestyle; rather than the average tourist who is content after two weeks on a beach and hitting the local ‘hot’ spots. The best example of this being an average walk home after dinner in Bamako City (Mali), to find himself in the middle of a music festival. Rather than take on the spotlight, Mytton opted to hide at the back, taking the best shots 1 of the Jelyia he could go unnoticed, until the President of Bamako invited him upfront to get the best views. In his own words, it’s an ‘experience he’ll never forget.’

Top Left: Ouaga Woman 2009 Nikon D80 Location: Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso. Chatting in broken French; I was mesmerized by this Fulani woman’s natural beauty. Top Right: Dogon Kids 2009 Nikon D80 Location: Endé (Pays Dogon), Mali. Everywhere you go in West Africa there is a kid who wants you to “snap” him. The trick is to get the shot before the inevitable mob of children arrives. Bottom Right: Dogon Village 2009 Nikon D80 Location: Endé (Pays Dogon), Mali. The magical and simplistic beauty of Pays Dogon transports you to another time.

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I like to decide for myself. I’ve always enjoyed the power of an image and how it can tell a story. For me, it’s about representing a place as I see it, not by what’s in the news

Peugeot 505 2009 Nikon D80 Location: Dakar, Senegal Anyone who's travelled in West Africa has spent some amount of time crammed into the back of one of these first world relics. Usually hot and sweaty, occasionally dirty, rarely fast, never on time, and always cheap, when you take public transport, often the journey can be more interesting than the destination.


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Mali Truck 2009 Nikon D80 Location: Somewhere near the Burkina Faso/Mali border. This steel behemoth, held together with chewing gum and the occasional “inshalla” (If God wills) uttered by the driver, allowed me to enjoy what was the dustiest, hottest, and bumpiest ride of my life.

Mali Masks 2009 Nikon D80 Location: Bamako, Mali. The characters and personalities that one will come across in a typical West African market are as varied as the masks this particular vendor might sell you.

Gouda 2009 Nikon D80 Location: Accra, Ghana. Everywhere you go in West Africa, rhythm and music is ingrained into daily life. This is from a shoot I did with my friends from Gouda Music, a neo-traditional group from Accra.

Bamako Bridge 2009 Nikon D80 Location: Bamako, Mali. In a taxi designed for five, the Malians have figured out how to fit seven. Crossing the Niger River into Bamako, a few of my French friends showed me around town.

Dogon Bed 2009 Nikon D80 Location: Endé (Pays Dogon), Mali. Searching in the dark for your toothbrush might seem like a hassle, until you lay back to gaze towards the heavens and reflect on where you are.

Makola 2009 Nikon D80 Location: Makola market, Accra, Ghana

Fishing Harbour 2009 Canon 50D Location: Accra, Ghana. These two shots are from a street studio project I did with a friend and photographer, Olivier Asselin. We set up lights in different neighbourhoods of Accra and shot anyone who was interested. The real fun was in returning the following week with prints for anyone we snapped.


Not only has he witnessed amazing sites such as this, but also met some truly fascinating people. One in particular who stands out 2 for him was a Pentecostal preacher from Northern Ghana. Living 45 km from everything he only wanted to help people. In a country that has been torn apart by continuous internal political struggles, Mytton was shocked to find someone who didn’t care if you are Muslim, Christian or whatever else. This preacher just appreciated life can be a struggle at times. Like the preacher, Mytton has found it so rewarding to be able to give back to those around him. Having gone to Ghana with the intention of shooting portraits representing the influence of Hip-Hop, he found individuals unwilling to partake. This led him to invite members of the public to have their photographs taken. As most don’t own any photos of themselves, they were delighted to be offered these images for free, calling neighbors, family and friends to see this wonderful sight. For Ross, that was ‘more fun than taking the shots.’ When asked what he has taken from his time in Africa, he thinks for a moment, and replies that he learnt to manage his expectations. Perhaps not the most obvious answer, but as Mytton explains, ‘seeing people go over to third world countries and promise the world but can’t deliver is really disappointing and so you have to be realistic. I’ve learnt to manage my expectations because of this and just be realistic.’

It might appear to some that Ross has had somewhat of a fairytale experience and that most are not so lucky in life. All he can say to that is, ‘I’m flattered people enjoy my photographs. I do them for myself more than anything so it makes me really happy that others appreciate what I do.’ At that point there isn’t anything else to say so, on that note, thank you Ross, and keep doing what you’re doing.

Top: Mali Dance 2009 Nikon D80 Location: Bamako, Mali. As a grain of salt in a sea of pepper, it’s hard to be inconspicuous, but sometimes that can be to your advantage. Getting lost and stumbling upon this late night traditional music festival I soon found myself sharing drinks and dancing with the traditional leaders.

1. Also known as Griot in French, a musical historian who recounts the stories of his people using a Kora, a 21-string harp like instrument made from half a calabash shell covered in leather. 2. Pentecostalism is a ‘renewalist religious movement within Christianity, that places special emphasis on a direct personal experience of God through the baptism of the Holy Spirit’


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LCF BA Graduate Show Text Kristin Knox Illustration Alina Antemir

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hile the rest of England’s undergraduates scramble to put the finishing touches on (or begin) their theses, tediously revising day and night, the 28 graduates of the London College of Fashion’s BA (Hons) Fashion Design and Technology course were lacing up their models’ spray painted Doc Martens and holding their breath as the culmination of all their hard work stepped on to the runway of the final leg of their degree.

Technology--All Saints better snap him up quick before he stages a military coup and uses his final look (an enormous billowing parachute trained dress) to make a timely exit. But the valedictorian, as announced by model Jade Parfitt, was Hoi Lam Wong, whose Nicole Farhi flavoured floral/sequined collection had, I thought only one look which really merited the grade A, a peach pair of sequined harem trousers paired with matching peach oversized leather jacket.

An impressive panel of examiners (that is, a front row of the who’s who of London fashion) descended upon Covent Garden’s Flower Cellars (home of Fashion Fringe) to support the students, including William Tempest, Daisy De Villeneuve, Erin O’Connor, Jade Parfitt and Jasmine Guinness. And the students, their creativity (or at least aspirations to ostentatiousness) somewhat tempered by current climates, economic and social, did not, for the most part, disappoint.

All in all, the future looks bright for these 28 graduates, and with Graduate Fashion Week come and gone, there we will soon have plenty more young talent to gorge ourselves on. But to the LCF class of 2009, I say Stephen Jones’ off, congratulations!

The zeitgeist running through the class was clear, and I must be getting old because I actually remember it. That zeitgeist, my friends, is that of the early nineties in all its brash yet minimalistic, deconstructed piecemeal glory--Gen Y is so over the 80s. There was lightweight fringed denim aplenty, enough beige to make Burberry blush, angular androgynous deconstructions with the occasional bright coloured rabbit fur/ denim concoction which took me straight back to 1994. Brace yourselves, Contempo Casual is poised for a comeback! Perhaps my ego is still scarred from the memory of many middle school outfits gone awry, but the collections, which most tickled my fancy where those didn’t trigger a Limited Too flashback. The breezy and adorable Moroccan-inspired white cum colourful cloth jewellery collection of Anna Hobbs, which could have walked straight off the runway and into Anthropologies everywhere probably being my personal favourite. If I could pack all of it into a suitcase to take on my upcoming holiday right now, I would. I also enjoyed the thick origami folded wool camel creations of Natsumi Zama and the half-coat/half-Oxford shirt/not-sure-how/where-you’d-wear-it deconstructed androgynous looks of Yun Jeong Yang. But when it came time to dole out awards, the silk square cut out collection of Alicija Aputyte took the prize for Textiles and military inspired looks of Alex Rosenwald that for Design 91


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