JOHN GALLIANO TIME TO FORGIVE AND FOGET?
LENI RIEFENSTAHL THE FORBIDDEN FILM MAKER
AISLING FREEMAN FIERCE FARMYARD FASHION
Jill Sanders, Victoria Beckham, Giogio Armani.
Fashion History This season the trend is all about the reinvention of old classics. From the runway to the red carpet, it’s old styles with new twists. This WIEWSRXLIVI[EWEHIÁRMXIRSHXSQMHGIRXYry, 1960’s, with one stand out silhouette: the cocoon. From coats to dresses, the oversized shape even made its way down Victoria BeckLEQ¸WGEX[EPO%RH[ILIVIEXLEVTIV¸WHIÁERXly approve(see stylist spread page 180)Leather is the way to go Louis Vuitton, Christopher Kane’s collection for Versus and Bettie Page-inspired leather peplum skirts at Givenchy made it clear that naughty is very nice for your closet next season. This is super easy to pull off . Our cover model, Aisling freeman is rocking the leather in Farmyard glamour spread (see page 17)Fur is a big story for autumn - even decorating glasses at Alexander Wang - as are exotic WOMRW PSSOEX1MWWSRM¸WÂSSVW[IITMRKWREOIskin coats for reference). Animal lovers, fear not – instead of wearing the fur you can wear the print instead Givenchy’s panthers, running deer at Marc by Marc Jacobs and dog portraits at Topshop Unique and Ungaro. Our Journlist Sinead Freeman dig’s deep into Galliano’s situation and uncovers artist’s in similar stories.
Cover Article, Galliano, was he alone?
Givenchy,Versus and Gucci.
Sinead Freeman Editor.
October 2011 | HARPER’S BAZAAR |
CONTRIBUTORS was discovered in AISLINGAisling London on city break with family last year at the FREEMANher tender age of 16. Since then she has been stomping the runways from New York to Paris and bracing the covers of every magazine. Irish born and breed it is important to her to keep grounded and she still goes to school and I\TIGXMRKXSWMXLIVÁREPI\EQWMR.YRI What’s the best thing about your job? What I do isn’t a job it’s a dream. I have to constantly pinch myself to see if it’s real. I go to WGLSSPHYVMRKXLI[IIOERHÂ]SYXXSHIWMKRIVW on the weekend; I never imagined that this could be my life. Winter or Summer? Summer, free time and no reasonability, nothing better.
JACK COUSENS Jack is a world renowned creative director based half the year in his London home and the other half in his New York apartment. Having ÁRMWLIHEHIKVIIMRTLSXSKVETL]&%MR2SVXLYQFVME9RMZIVWMX]MR the late 90’s,he was offered a position under Grace Coddington and the rest, as they say is history. He is the most sought out after creative visionary in the industry and we here at Bazaar know how lucky we are to have him.(see page 80 on how to wear fur) What’s the best thing about your job? I think it’s that I am constantly creatively challenged and that no job is the same. I like to keep busy and with this job you never stop. Winter or Summer? Summer, I take a well-earned break.
|HARPER’S BAZAAR | October 2011
Megan is a self-taught stylist; she fell into styling working in Selfridges in the early 90’s. Having a signature taste, many women sought her advice on how to mimic her style. She quickly became Selfridges head personal stylist and then received an offer off UK Vogue in 2000. Since then she has moved into freelance work for all major magazine, fashion houses and celebrities. Her creations can be seen almost every month from ID to the red carpet to bazaar. (See page 180 for how to style hats this winter) What’s the best thing about your job? My life could have gone in totally different direction and I always remind myself of that. But the best thing would have to be meeting different people; the industry is as big as it is small. Winter or Summer? Winter.
JUST THE ART PLEASE
Sinead Freeman I\EQMRIWMRÂYIRXMEPEVXMWXWERHXLIMVGSRXVSZIVWMEP lives and investigates whether they can be separate entities.
hen presented with a simple question, the answer is often simple. Would you celebrate one of the best X[IRX] ÁVWX GIRXYV] ÁPQ QEOIVW#;SYPH ]SY commend the brilliance and skill of one of the FIWX HIWMKRIVW MR XLI [SVPH#;SYPH ETTPEYH XLI[SVOSJHMVIGXSVSJEFS\SJÁGILMX#4VSTerly yes. What if those people had committed crimes or said or done heinous things. Do you think you could appreciate their achievements, HIWTMXIXLIVIYRWEZSYV]GLEVEGXIV# The idea initially seems very clear, to be able to separate the art from the artist. Take for example Leni Riefenstahl; she is a woman who FVSYKLX XLI EVX SJ ÁPQ QEOMRK MRXS XLI RI\X generation, at a time where men dominated not only the work force but in particular the ÁPQMRHYWXV]7LI[SRQER]E[EVHWJSVÁPQW like “Triumph of the will” and “Olympia” Particularly for the techniques she applied which weren’t used at the time and are still used today, digging pits to get lower angles, using shadowy images, placing cameras on rails and even cameramen on roller blades. Most would consider this an impressive accomplishment but what if you were told that “Triumph of the will”, is known as one of the best propaganda ÁPQW IZIV QEHI# %RH MR EHHMXMSR LIV ÁPQW aided Hitler’s rise to power and that he and she were close companions. This makes her character questionable and now her work is too. But what if we stopped for a moment to consider of all things her point of ZMI[#7LI[EWE[SQER[LS[EWGPIEVP]RExZI she at the time was given a huge platform to HIZIPSTLIVWIPJEWEÁPQQEOIVERHWLIXSSO |HARPER’S BAZAAR | October 2011
it.She never joined the Nazi party nor was she ever convicted of any knowledge of war GVMQIW%XÁVWXKPERGI-XLMROMXIEW]XS[VMXI SJJ6MIJIRWXELP·W[SVOERHMKRSVIXLIFIRIÁXW WLIQEHIXSXLI[SVPHSJÁPQERHTLSXSKVEphy, after all she was friends with Hitler of all people, but can we acknowledge her contribuXMSRW[MXLSYXEGGITXMRKXLI2E^MEWWSGMEXMSR# Riefenstahl has spent her whole 101 years ÁKLXMRK LIV 2E^M WXMKQE &SXL 4VI ERH 4SWX war she led an extraordinary life. Her early career started in ballet performing in Munich, &IVPMRERH4VEKYI7LIXLIRQSZIHMRXSÁPQ EGXMRK MR %VRSPH *VERO GYPX ÁPQW PMOI (IV Grosse Sprung, Die Weisse Holle Vom Piz Palu and Strumuber Dem Mount to name a few and eventually moved behind the camera to diVIGXLIVÁVWXÁPQ8LI;LMXI,IPPSJ4MX^4EPY 8LIÁPQMRHYWXV]FPEGOPMWXIHLIVEJXIV,MXPIV¸W downfall but was perfectly content to use her developed skills, in which she was generations ahead of her time. &YX MW XLMW JEMV#8LI [SVPH SJ ÁPQ WIIQIH XS think so and separated the artist from the art, or rather the skills used in creating the art. Ray Muller, director of The Wonderful Horrible Life of Leni Riefenstahl said that “Her talent was her tragedy” And for some reason I can’t help feel apathetic towards her cause. Her work, after the war subsequently faced harsh criticism of being of “Nazi Aesthetic”. But Riefenstahl wasn’t fazed by her shortcomings, working well into her 90’s and even taking up scuba diving at the age of 71 to pursue underwater photography. She was clearly a passionwww.harpersbazaar.co.uk
ate and driven woman. I think it is impossible to consider her in normal terms for she was anything but ordinary.
Leni in Sudan,Africa photographying the Nuba Tribe
rope to avoid conviction. Would you feel youâ€™re betraying your morale and ethics by watchMRK ER] SJ LMW Ă PQW RS[ ORS[MRK [LEX OMRH SJTIVWSRLIMW#1SWX[SYPHEVKYIXLEXXLMWMW an inexcusable crime particular since the girl in question was a child at the time. Added to that, Polanski has completely avoided taking any responsibility for the crime. Is this where we are to draw the line. One can overlook taboo topics and slandering insults to a certain point, but rape, perhaps this is where one can no longer appreciate the artistic brilliance, as the creator has completely overshadowed his own work by his lack of inhumanity. The offense in question is quite unforgivable. Furthermore Polanski continued to act that it has been anything but inconvenience to his life. But if I was to boycott every artist and [VMXIV[SYPHXLIVIER]XLMRKPIJXXSIRNS]#4Mcasso, T.S Elliot, Robert Frost, James Joyce and Beethoven were all not without major faults. Can I really believe that personal down falls automatically disqualify professional achieveQIRXW# ;I ORS[ XLI [SVPH MWRÂ¸X FPEGO ERH white but yet is there a point where it ought to be. I suppose in the end it is a personal choice and it is up to ourselves whether this is a person we are willing to support. PolansOMÂ¸WRI[Ă PQ'EVREKIHIFYXWXLMW[MRXIV[MXL an impressive cast, Kate Winslet, Christoph Waltz, Jodie Foster and John C. Reilly. Will the strength of his work, lure you in and be too QYGLXSVIWMWX# Roman Polanski aged 76, EXXLIGIWEVĂ PQ awards.
f a person commits a grave crime, for instance rape, the average person would be disgusted. This person would be shunned in todayâ€™s society, would you go to your local grocer, pharmacist or dentist if XLI] GSQQMXXIH WYGL ER SJJIRGI#;SYPH ]SY GSRXMRYIXSWYTTSVXXLIQ#%RH[LEXMJEĂ PQQEOIVGSQQMXXIHXLMWGVMQI#;LEXMJEVETMWX HMVIGXIHXLIĂ PQÂ¸W]SYPSZI#*MPQÂ¸WPMOI'LMREtown, Rosemaryâ€™s Baby, Ghost Writer and The Pianist which were directed by Roman PolanWOME*VIRGL4SPMWLĂ PQQEOIV;LSVETIHE ]IEVSPH KMVP MR ERH XLIR Ă‚IH XS )Ywww.harpersbazaar.co.uk
Polanski, in the early 1970â€™s.
October 2011 | HARPERâ€™S BAZAAR |
The anti- Semitic stigma forever associated with Hitler and the holocaust even now is still fresh in our conscience and not to be taken lightly. One would argue that any racist antics would besmirch anyone’s reputation and is RSXXSPIVEXIHMRXSHE]¸WWSGMIX]VMKLX#&YX[LEX does one fashion lover do when a creative geRMYWPMOI.SLR+EPPMERSKIXWGEYKLXYTMRMXEPP# On the 25th February this year the world was shocked when a video of Galliano slurring anti-Semitic insults towards two costumers in a Parisian café was leaked. “I love Hitler and people like you would be dead today.” The video reaction was immediate and the backlash pressured The House of Dior to suspend the designer, until Natalie Portman, actress and face of Dior spoke out in response to the video, “As an individual who is proud to be Jewish I will not be associated with Mr Galliano in ER][E]¶.YWXLSYVWEJXIV[EVHW XLIÁVWXHE]SJ Paris Fashion Week) Dior buckled to the growMRK TVIWWYVI ERH SYXVEKI ERH ÁVIH +EPPMERS However it is clear that the designer was intoxicated and was under serious pressures, having to produce at least 12 collections per year. The balance between fashion and the business of fashion is very challenging. Mr Galliano admits that “After every creative high, I would crash and alcohol would help me” It is clear Mr Galliano was indulging in a creative crash and while many people were cutting their ties with him, in contrast many took a precarious stance and stood by him. It makes me wonder though when will enough time pass to forgive and forget or will being a fan of John Galliano be deplorable forever. One could never argue that what Galliano said was just in any terms. However after hearing Patricia Fields comments, made me evaluate Galliano’s situation in a different light. “It’s a farce. But people in fashion don’t recognise the farce in it. All of a sudden they don’t know LMQ¶8LMW MR VIXVS VIWTIGX ÁXW LMW GLEVEGXIV Galliano’s collections are dominated by theaXVIERHHVEQEERHIZIRLMWÁVWXGSPPIGXMSR0IW Incrayables was inspired by his part timework as a dresser in Danton, a national theatre production. His whole aesthetic is to bring his vision to life. “Sometimes you make mistakes. I don’t think he is anti-Semitic” Said Eva Green, a Jewish actress and Dior model “I think it’s |HARPER’S BAZAAR | October 2011
more that he was probably a bit drunk”. AlXLSYKL QER] JEWLMSR ÁKYVIW EVI JYVMSYW F] his behaviour, Karl Lagerfeld for one, I don’t XLMROLIMWXLIÁVWXXSQEOIEQMWXEOIMWLI# Naomi Campbell and her blackberry smack, Marc Jacobs and his stint in rehab, Calvin Klein and his substance abuse, Kate Moss and cocaine and the late Alexander McQueen and Yves Saint Laurent, who fought their own demons. Yes, they all had their own setbacks, but their scandals didn’t spell the end of their careers. I think the big question is when is it going to be socially acceptable to fall in love with +EPPMERS EKEMR SV VEXLIV LMW GVIEXMSRW# /EXI Moss took a stand last July when she reached out to Galliano to design her wedding dress. “She dared me to be Galliano again” Well for me the time has come, to forgive and forget and welcome John Galliano with open arms. In this case it is apparent; you can’t have the art without the artist and I don’t want a world without Galliano.
A crumbling farm setâ€™s the scene in the small quaint town of Ennisscrone,off the west coast of Ireland, to contrast to the dramtic glamour of signture pieces.
Photography by Sinead Freeman Styled by Kathyrn Purves
Little black dress £790 Prada, Black Wedges £1600 Christian Louboution, Floppy hat, £600 Marc Jacobs and sunglasses £400 Miu Miu
8EROXST%PI\ERder Wang , Purple jeans , £650 purple jeans and shoes as seen before.
Jacket £2500 Chanel, leather leggins £1200, Louis Vuitton.
Blazer . £ 950 Prada, Bra £45 Calvin Klein , Leather Jeans £700 Versace Jeans.
Fur Coat, £8,000, Dior