touches, like the speakeasy-style bar behind the kitchen and a patio that feels like a sunken garden, make us want to continue to explore this romantic spot.
The Sashimi platters at One Plus Sushi are stunning with minimalist simplicity.
Antipasti: $6-$19 Pasta: $12-$16 Entrées: $18-$68 krsteakbar.com
KYMA The name means “wave,” and that’s exactly what executive chef Pano I. Karatassos has been doing at his family’s stellar Greek seafood restaurant since 2002. From marides (tiny, “French fry”-size white fish) to Greek specimens grilled whole (try the barbounia or bronzino), Kyma excels at delivering the kind of simple, unadorned flavors you’ll encounter on a patio by the Aegean. Order a glass of Greek wine (there are many options) and a few classic meze for sharing (we like the dolmades, spanakopita, cuttlefish stuffed with lamb stew, and the feta-zucchini fritters), and your meal will go just swimmingly. Meze: $8-$14 Mains: $26-$46 (Whole fish: $30 or $36 per pound) buckheadrestaurants.com/kyma
ONE SUSHI PLUS This glam space wedged in the back corner of Brookhaven’s Town Village is a neighborhood hotspot for Japanese small plates. The freshest fish flown in from Japan’s Tsukiji Market will impress the discerning sushi eater, while colorful rolls with clever names please the occasional dabbler. Sharable offerings and inspired snacks of zesty, yellowtail jalapeno shots and crispy fried bang bang rock shrimp are as fun as they are tasty. The drinking experience is worth celebrating as well, with a large selection of sake, shochu and whisky. We recommend the smoked toro,
tender slices of tuna served under a dome of hickory smoke and the bulgogi-like Gangnam style roll. Dinner: $6-$37 theonesushiplus.com
SALTYARD At Saltyard, Chef Nick Leahy offers a menu of small plates with reverence for local farmers and the current growing season. Employing global imagination, he heightens these dishes with international seasonings and flavors to create worldly comfort food. With an everchanging menu, Saltyard is never the
same place twice. Rustic dishes such as crispy duck confit and super tender grilled octopus are masterful in their simplicity and depth of flavor. Raw and cured items such as the deconstructed salmon pastrami, while lighter, offer an equal flavor punch. This is not the place to skip the dessert course. Leahy puts forth the same amount of effort in his decadent chocolate nemesis with Brandy cream as he does entrees. Tapas: $5-$16 Large Plates: $18-$25 saltyardatlanta.com
Saltyard’s menu is full of approachable comfort food that thrills, such as this s’mores bread pudding with banana ice cream.
Smokebelly offers a traditional Southern inspired barbeque experience within Buckhead’s posh surroundings. The rustic yet upscale interior is a comfortable place to kick back with a local beer or craft cocktail. The hearty barbecue platters offer generous portions of smoked meats and sides that harken to roadside dives. In addition, salads and healthful sides are tasty alternatives. At lunch, choose from a dozen sandwiches or from the long list of small plates. We recommend the quinoa super food salad, tangy and bright with colorful veggies and fresh greens, or the smoked brisket and sofrito empanadas with tender and richly flavored meat wrapped in a flaky crust. Tapas: $4.50-$11.50 Sandwiches and salads: $6.50-$13 BBQ Plates: $14-$27 smokebellybbq.com
WATERSHED ON PEACHTREE Co-owned by Indigo Girl Emily Saliers and restaurateur Ross Jones, Watershed is a restaurant with a storied, personality-driven past. It started as a walk-up sandwich shop in Decatur, won a James Beard Award for chef Scott Peacock and moved to Buckhead in 2012. Recently, chef Zeb Stevenson took over the kitchen, and his Southern and sometimes French-accented food is a decided improvement over predecessor Joe Truex. We are crazy about the dreamy chicken-liver mousse, smoked-trout brandade and Appalachian cider beans, a cassoulet-like play on pork and beans. A self-taught cook who brings soul, excitement and the occasional spark of genius, Stevenson is less interested in replicating the greatest hits of the past than cooking straight from the heart. We should all respect that. Appetizers: $8-$16 Entrees: $9-$18 at lunch, $20-$35 at dinner watershedrestaurant.com
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January/February 2017 | Simply Buckhead