Left: The delicate and flakey skate wing comes awash in brown butter with capers and crisp almond slivers.
Above: The menu has many options that are light, but satisfying such as the F&B salad with artichokes and pine nuts.
Above: The Granny Smith apple tart is elegant, yet still homey and comforting. Left: The steak frites are seasoned and charred to an exact medium rare.
Capo’s menu is pitch perfect brasserie style. soup to share, and our server kindly split the legacy dish, which has been on all Vergez’s menus, into two terrines. The creamy potage hit all the right notes—silkiness with crunchy bits of bacon and earthy croutons coated in truffle oil. We tried to order the duck confit salad our server talked up, but the kitchen was out of duck that particular Wednesday. Instead, we opted for the chicken paillard, which, compared to the F&B salad, was just a salad with a side of season-less chicken. The roasted lamb sandwich with rosemary saved the day with its impossibly tender meat on rosemary aioli-brushed olive bread. We were also charmed by the skate wing that was intensely flavored with brown butter and peppered with roasted almonds and fried capers. It sat atop velvety pureed potatoes and bright, slightly wilted Swiss chard. F&B takes great pride in its steak preparation. The filet, ordered medium rare, arrived with a seared crust. Our server asked us to check the interior—a perfect warm, red center. The steak frites, too, were charred to an exact
medium rare were a reminder of why this cut is one that butchers used to keep for themselves. The frites, cut in long thin strips, were fried hot, but could have used a bit more salt. Vergez has done a fine job selecting interesting French wines that match the food. One example: the robust Guigal Côtes du Rhône, a racy and lingering blend. Beverage manager Randy Kuder’s cocktail menu delivers spot-on dry martinis and his own creations, such as The Line of Destiny, a rich and refined concoction of bourbon, Antica Formula, Cappelletti bitters and an orange slice. Bitter and brooding like the floating tunes. Classic desserts such as crème brûlée don’t disappoint and the warm Granny Smith apple tart with drizzles of caramel, bits of pecans and a quenelle of bourbon pecan gelato was both sophisticated and homey. Throughout our meal, we overheard conversations—“It tastes just like when we went to France” and “I always get the….”—that solidify F&B’s status as a classic brasserie with reliable, down-to-earth food in a cozy atmosphere. n
Left: Chef Gabriel Capo’s menu is bolstered by the flavors of the Mediterranean. Below: Go for a classic or this deep and complex bourbon cocktail, The Line of Destiny.
F&B 3630 Peachtree Road. N.E., Suite 160, Atlanta 30326 404.254.1797 fandbatl.net Prices: Appetizers $6-$18. Desserts $6-$8. Cocktails $10. Large Plates $11-$42. Recommended Dishes: Skate wing, white bean soup, lamb sandwich, 8-ounce filet, F&B salad, The Line of Destiny cocktail. Bottom Line: Timeless and unpretentious Provençal food.
January/February 2017 | Simply Buckhead