ThE liTTlE BlaCk BOOk fOR ThE CiTy
Shake it up inspiRaTiOnal wOmEn BRinging fREsh idEas TO ThE CiTy / TimE zOnE waTChEs BOld, BRighT auTumn fashiOn / fishing wiTh alaska’s BEaRs / giRls wiTh guns
Breguet, the innovator. Classique “Le Réveil du Tsar”
In April 1814, shortly after the allied armies had entered Paris, Tsar Alexander I of Russia paid a visit to Breguet and ordered several watches from his favorite horologer. Today, the Classique 5707 “Le Réveil du Tsar” equipped with an alarm-activation indicator and a dial featuring several hand-guilloché motifs pays tribute to one of Breguet’s most emblematic patrons. History is still being written ...
BREGUET BOUTIQUE – 10A NEW BOND STREET
LONDON W1S 3SP
+ 4 4 2 0 7 3 5 5 17 3 5 – W W W. B R E G U E T. C O M
www.chanel.com FOR DETAILS OF AUTHORISED STOCKISTS PLEASE TELEPHONE 020 7493 3836
J12 Chromatic watch in titanium ceramic, a new highly scratch-resistant material. Its unique colour and shine are obtained by the addition of titanium to ceramic and diamond powder polishing. 54 diamonds (~1.4 carat). Self-winding mechanical movement. 42-hour power reserve. Water-resistant to 50 metres.
WELCOME TO BRUMMELL In this issue – along with stories about ﬁshing salmon with bears in Alaska, an expert’s guide to the highs and lows of personal audio, and a look at the best travel watch complications – we celebrate many of the City’s ‘inspirational women’. Brummell gathered together a panel of distinguished City women to champion 30 women they reckon ﬁt the description, from all walks of City life. An inﬂuential City ﬁgure in her own right, Kirsten English expertly guided the panel through deﬁnitions, criteria and selections. We invited her to reveal, below, her own personal experiences and discuss the importance of working with women who are truly guiding lights. Joanne Glasbey, editor
Women: the future
ome of the City’s most inspirational women feature in this edition of Brummell. I emphasise the word ‘some’ because there were many candidates and, by deﬁnition, not all could make a shortlist. The 30 listed have a career (with diverse interests) which inspires others, or have driven forward a single inspirational idea. Or their very journey in life commands admiration. The panel’s conclusion: there is a unique breadth of talent in the City of London and we can deploy it much more in British and international business. Our inspirational women, like our Olympians, are role models for the next generation and we celebrate their success. Going round our children’s schools and university open days also gives parents some interesting data: there were almost 80,000 more female applicants to UCAS in 2012; by 2017 there will be more female medics than male and in accountancy about 40 per cent are women. Where a professional/public qualiﬁcation is taken, and gender not stated on the exam paper, then ladies are performing rather well. Despite these encouraging statistics, change remains slow in some areas. Holly (aged 10) reads my newspaper. ‘Where’s your golden skirt?’ she asks accusingly. The front page carries an article on the UK’s pushback to
proposed European Board quotas for women. Norway is cited as the poster child of quota success with their so called ‘golden skirt’ female board members and I am on a Norwegian Board. I sweep aside fashion incidentals to focus on women and their futures. ‘Change is coming to Britain, darling. By 2020 the UK will have the same board gender mix that Norway has now and may even have overtaken South Africa in the league table of gender diversity.’ It sounds like a long time to wait for Holly; by 2020 she will have left senior school (she has yet to complete junior school) and a few more Olympics will have come and gone. ‘Is it taking ages because they need to put up lots of buildings, ﬁnd millions of people to help and close all the roads again?’ Such probing questions will be lauded around the board tables of the decade after next and will prevent British banks (and national economies) from collapsing. It is fantastic that young women are coming through the ranks… And a message for our readers’ children: read the article on page 43 – you can always learn from others (diversity of all kinds breeds success) and ‘aspire to inspire’. We are handing you the baton – so stretch out your hand and start running. Words Kirsten English
CONTENTS | BRUMMELL
Cover illustration by Brett Ryder Show Media Brummell editorial 020 3222 0101 Editor Joanne Glasbey Art Director Dominic Bell Chief Copy Editor Chris Madigan Managing Editor Lucy Teasdale Picture Editor Juliette Hedoin Designer Jo Murray Copy Editors Tanya Jackson, Ming Liu, Gill Wing Staﬀ Writer Rosie Steer Fashion Director Tamara Fulton Creative Director Ian Pendleton Managing Director Peter Howarth
ANDY BARTER; PHILIP SINDEN; EMILY FORGOT
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Foreword To be a successful woman in investment banking, you have to be better than a man in the same position, says David Charters Money no object A beautiful new collection of rings from the restored House of Fabergé
brummellmagazine.net Colour reproduction by Fresh Media Group, groupfmg.com Printed by The Manson Group, manson-grp.co.uk
News Luxury residences in LA; tech, clothing and the Rapha Cycle Club for more style than the average MAMiL; and James Bond tailoring Menswear The footwear choice of obsessives, Berluti has now launched a collection of carefully crafted men’s clothes Technology It’s one of the big dilemmas of the age of constant communications – in-ear, on-ear or over-ear headphones
Watches The best timepieces for anyone spending their time crossing (or simply telephoning) between the zones of the world Shooting The ﬁrst rule of The Covert Girls club is, ‘Always shoot weapons beyond one’s ﬁnancial means’ – so we can talk about it Style Bold blues and unreserved reds – primary colours that are sure to make their mark Travel Sure, you may have your favoured ghillie on the Tay, but if you want truly expert tips on catching salmon, you can’t beat the brown bears of Alaska as teachers Inspirational women The 30 ﬁgures in the ﬁnancial world who have led innovations, set new standards and inspired the next inﬂux of businesswomen By George George private club – a rarity that is comfortable for women, encourages business and serves great cocktails
FOREWORD | bRUMMELL
Leading the charge It takes an extraordinary woman to excel at a senior level in the City. Maybe that’s why the women who do have abilities far beyond their male counterparts Words David Charters Illustration Brett Ryder
Is there a perfect woman? There certainly isn’t a perfect man. Just ask my ex-wives. When I was writing the Dave Hart novels I tried to create the perfect female counterpart to my City anti-hero: Laura ‘Two Livers’ MacKay, a female investment banker who was faster, smarter, sharper than Dave, could outdrink him as well as out-think him, oh and of course was stunningly beautiful with amazing dress sense and a dazzling personality as well. I had any number of enquiries from investment bankers asking who she was based on, could they hire her, was she still single… Of course she did not exist. She was a combination of several of real-life City women, with a heavy dose of ﬁction added to the mix. And even she was incomplete. Two Livers did not have a family, and she had no real interests outside her work life, which – because she was a high-powered investment banker – ﬁlled her weekdays, nights and weekends the way it does in real life. No one gets to have it all. Men certainly don’t and women have added burdens in the form of children and expectations imposed on them that simply do not apply to men. One of the worst myths created over the past decade or two in the Square Mile has been the notion of ‘Super Woman’, the high-powered mother, homemaker, professional over-achiever and socialite who is always impeccably turned out, has a perfect family, perfect life, huge bonuses and, oh yes, ﬂawless complexion and ﬁnely toned body. Yeah, right. Reality is always a let-down compared to the things we dream about. I believe it’s possible to do two things well in life, and perhaps dabble in a third. It is entirely possible, if you really work at it, to be successful in so demanding a ﬁeld as investment banking, while still having a decent family life – but only just, and in most cases corners get cut at home. Alternatively a mediocre career, but a great family life and signiﬁcant achievement in
some other ﬁeld – I know people whose private passions have varied from climbing mountains to ﬂying planes, religion, politics, philanthropy, or simply golﬁng. But doing anything to a really high standard takes eﬀort, concentration and above all time – and for all of us there are only 24 hours in a day. Let me generalise massively and suggest that not only are women naturally better multitaskers than men, but that they have more patience, listen more carefully, prepare more fully and only sound the bugles and charge when they are truly ready. When they reach senior positions in areas as demanding as the City it is fair to assume that they deserve to be there and are more than just a pretty face. Don’t believe for a second the nonsense about equality of opportunity. For a woman to reach the same position as a man in investment banking, particularly within the key revenue-generating areas, she needs to be better than a man. I have never yet been disappointed after meeting a senior woman in the City, whereas I have lost count of the number of men in top positions who I found so bad that if they could not be ﬁred, they should at least have been required to stay at home and not answer the telephone. It’s true to say that women have now comprehensively smashed the glass ceiling, and some at least have discovered the emptiness and limitations of the glittering prizes on the other side. Those who impress me most are not necessarily the highest ﬂyers. Lower down the corporate food chain are the jugglers,
Forget equal opportunities. For a woman to reach the same position as a man in investment banking, she needs to be better than a man
those with young families who worry about child care or pop down to the ﬁrm’s crèche between meetings, who organise the Ocado delivery and the cleaner and rush home to get ready for some evening event when all they want to do is put their feet up in front of the telly. And on arriving late to the dinner party, they can enjoy the scrutiny of those other women who are ‘full-time mums’, dedicating themselves to their children – courtesy of their husbands’ success – and who can gaze with unspoken disapproval at the mothers who have left their children for the workplace. Men really do have it easy by comparison – and that is before we mention that we can also be overweight, drink too much and have no conversation beyond football and cars, and still get away with it. A female equivalent would struggle to be taken seriously. And men never need concern themselves with what to wear to the oﬃce – the standard corporate uniform of a suit and tie generally does the trick. Is this fair? No, it sucks. But some of those who are toughest on women in the workplace are other women, looking at their younger protégées on the way up and proving to be unforgiving judges of them. Following the credit crunch, competition is harder than ever in the Square Mile, while the rewards are lower. Yet despite all of this there are now more women, working in more senior positions in the City of London than ever before. Hard times and tough competition have not put them oﬀ. On the contrary, they seem more determined than ever. Because as someone once said, if it was easy, then anyone could do it. Forget Two Livers. Bring on real women.
The Ego’s Nest, by David Charters, the ﬁfth novel in the series about City anti-hero Dave Hart, is published by Elliott & Thompson, priced £6.99
the Fine Jewellery room
+44 (0)20 7730 1234 harrods.com
MONEY NO OBJECT These Fabergé rings evoke the jeweller’s rich heritage and modern aesthetic in equal glory Words Joanne Glasbey Photography Andy Barter
The name Fabergé is synonymous with the legendary series of lavish Imperial Easter eggs created for the Imperial Romanov family. But their creator, Peter Carl Fabergé, as oﬃcial jeweller and goldsmith to the Russian Imperial Court, created many other objects of great craftsmanship. The Fabergé story, which began in 1842, was inextricably linked to the royal family, and continued until the Russian Revolution of 1917 that ended both the Romanov dynasty and the House of Fabergé. Nearly a century later, the Fabergé legacy has been reborn. Precious materials used in innovative design reinterpret the artistry of its heritage, creating
heirloom pieces intended to pass from generation to generation. This season’s collection is very colourful, as these Emotion rings illustrate. Their organic shape, inspired by Russia’s great rivers, is a contemporary Fabergé signature. Emotion Ochre, bottom left, is set in gold and features 305 pink and yellow diamonds, ﬁre opals, moonstones, demantoids, spessartites and tsavorites (£42,203); Emotion Saphirs Bleus, top, is set in 18k white gold with blue sapphires (£14,808); Emotion Rouge, middle, is set with perfectly matched rubies (£34,058). Fabergé boutique, 14 Grafton Street, London W1; at Harrods; at Dorchester Hotel; faberge.com
NEWS | bEAumoNdE
burberry’s new high-tech ﬂagship, James bond-inspired ties and living high in LA
on the case The briefcase has traditionally been relied upon to perform no less menial a task than keeping one’s documents tidy in transit, but with the launch of the limited-edition Tumi bulletproof attaché, we can now aspire to bring a little more protection to our workaday lives. Clad in Tumi’s resilient Tegris thermoplastic composite, this near-indestructible case should provide a suﬃcient shield in tricky situations, and also includes a handcuﬀ ring for transporting precious goods, a hidden compartment, and tracer technology – should it ever leave your sight. £5,995 at Harrods; harrods.com
High life Described as ‘a home like no other, in a place like no other’, the RitzCarlton Residences at LA Live are situated right above the famous hotel. From the 27th to the 52nd ﬂoor, the 224 luxury condominiums boast extensive views of the city, the ocean and those famous Hollywood Hills. Situated in downtown Los Angeles, LA Live is the city’s newest sports and entertainment complex. The Ritz-Carlton relationship not only means residents can use the hotel’s amenities but home ownership is complemented by its legendary service, which includes 24-hour in-residence dining and a dedicated concierge team. Being so close to the area’s best food and music venues also means additional perks such as pre-sale event tickets and preferred pricing rates at various local hotspots that include prestigious restaurants and VIP entrance to Club Nokia. allaccessliving.com
The sea word Sports fragrances – and the so-called ‘aquatic’ note they often contain, known as calone – have been everywhere of late. So it’s no surprise that Prada, one of the few fashion brands with a genuine sporting link, through its America’s Cup yachting team Luna Rossa Challenge, is following suit. Perfumer Daniela Andrier has avoided the usual oceanic freshness clichés, opting instead for a bracing splash of bitter orange and lavender, which then mellows into a woody warmth. For once, the accompanying TV commercial – with its full-sized sailing rig and warehouse full of water cannons – is an accomplishment all of its own. £62 for 100ml; prada.com
Life cycle Rapha, the online emporium known to discerning cyclists as the go-to destination for ﬁne clothing and accessories, has always blended style and performance. The company is passionate about road racing and now fans can physically embrace Rapha in their recently opened ﬂagship Cycle Club in Soho. A meeting place for road-racing enthusiasts, visitors will not only ﬁnd Rapha products and cycling memorabilia and info, but also enjoy coﬀee or beer at the bar with like-minded fans while watching racing and consuming cycling culture. Rapha Cycle Club, 85 Brewer Street W1 London; rapha.cc
beAumonde | neWS
Trench mark What happens when the most web-literate British fashion brand – 13 million Facebook fans and counting – unveils a new global ﬂagship store in the heart of London? A 19th-century Grade II listed building at 121-123 Regent Street, which neatly integrates ‘the digital and the physical experience of Burberry’. For the digital, you can expect the tallest indoor retail screen in the world (6.9m high), custom-built video signage with bespoke content relating to each area of the store, over 420 customised speakers and a permanent hydraulic stage for live music performances. For the physical, cue a stunning architectural backdrop ﬁlled with the most comprehensive Burberry collections anywhere in the world, including chief creative oﬃcer Christopher Bailey’s exquisite new timepiece collection, aptly named ‘The Britain’. uk.burberry.com
Golden age For the past 75 years Chester Barrie has built its reputation as a tailoring house. Still on Savile Row, it has now launched a new Gold Label shirt collection and a range of accessories exclusively in Selfridges. It’s classic British style with fashion details: luxury cotton fabrics, a new tab collar and contrast collars. Inspiration is from the Thirties, when London was the international centre for male elegance and Chester Barrie at its nucleus. Chester Barrie is at Selfridges, and 18-19 Savile Row, W1; chesterbarrie.co.uk
To the extreme Bradley Wiggins’ dominance of road cycling in 2012 has inspired a generation of overweight, middle-aged men in lycra to form their own suburban pelotons. Now, with this hard-wearing action camera, they can now record their exploits, too. The iON Air Pro WiFi musters both HD video and still photography through its lightweight, 130g barrel, and can be mounted just about anywhere, from handlebars to crash helmet. Better still, you can later wirelessly upload your adrenalinefuelled adventures along the B373 to the likes of YouTube for all to enjoy. £299; iontheaction.co.uk
Ties like us Even today, some 41 years after his last (oﬃcial) outing as James Bond, Sean Connery’s signature suiting remains the acme of sartorial elan. The look, pioneered by Mayfair tailor Anthony Sinclair, is known as the Conduit Cut; a classic, pared-down shape with a natural shoulder line, Connery would complete the eﬀect with a pocket square and his signature woven tie. This year, Anthony Sinclair has relaunched on London’s Sackville Street, to coincide with the 50th anniversary of the Bond ﬁlms. Central to the new collection is a range of woven grenadine silk ties designed with a narrower, more versatile width that 007 would surely approve of. From £75; anthonysinclair.com
20 beAumonde | menSWeAR
Craft wear Berluti is known for making shoes that spark devotion like religious artefacts. Now, under Alessandro Sartori, it is launching clothes created with similar love and attention
Alessandro Sartori has been on a tour of his native Italy, from Lombardy to Sicily. But rather than come back with souvenirs of the Uﬃzi and Colosseum, he returned with 17 small ateliers under contract. ‘And I mean small,’ he adds, ‘sometimes just a couple of people. But we only want very small numbers.’ Sartori is the designer of the new, full menswear line of gnarly Donegal three-piece suits, donnish overcoats, cashmere parkas, leather blousons and heirlooms-in-the-making accessories from French shoemakers Berluti. The 117-year-old company is best known for employing quirky techniques – tattooing shoe leather or ‘bathing’ them in moonlight to achieve a certain patina – with a characteristically straight Parisian face. Berluti certainly has its devotees, who’ve been known to gather to clean their shoes using Venetian linen and vintage Dom Perignon. No Cherry Blossom for them. Whether that indicates the peak of civilisation or its imminent collapse is up for debate. But the clothes look set to have ardent followers too.
Sartori comes to Berluti from the commercial world of Italian textiles and menswear giant Ermenegildo Zegna, so he knows how to design to sell. ‘At the end the work is the same – we have a man to dress,’ Sartori says. ‘But Berluti is more for the man who, like me, is at a certain stage of his life where he knows what he likes. It’s about style, not trends. He is not the type of man to see there’s a lot of yellow on the catwalks and decide he’s into yellow now.’ Rather, for the ﬁrst Berluti collection, Sartori has marshalled his team of supersuppliers to create a range that is luxe without being excessive, wearable without being blandly classic and, above all (thanks to those ateliers) replete with craft detail. Seams are felled, trousers waistbands are piped, buttons are horn and button holes are lined with handabraded leather, hand-painted three times to get precisely the right colour. Indeed, one reason why it is all made in Italy (with the exception of the bespoke operation, due to launch in Paris at Atelier Arnys next June) is to make feasible the logistics of moving the individual, artisanal parts between diﬀerent tailors to produce the ﬁnal garment. That means that the clothing isn’t cheap, but will go the distance. ‘I’d be very happy if someone decided to wear Berluti head to toe,’ Sartori jokes, ‘but I reckon this is more about thinking about what you’re buying, selecting certain pieces and then really valuing them – that collector’s approach is a healthier way to shop.’ Sartori is most animated when he thinks of Berluti clothing as a reﬂection of what he regards as Italian menswear’s golden era. ‘I’m addicted to the idea of Italian tailoring of the Forties and Fifties, that amazing period when men went to tailors to get their entire wardrobe made, but were ready to try diﬀerent silhouettes and details. And all those beautiful fabrics…’ he adds wistfully. ‘That’s what I want to re-create: that old feeling of richness.’ Berluti, 43 Conduit Street W1; berluti.com Words Josh Sims
22 beAumonde | Audio
Smart ’phones In-, on- or over-ear… the preference for style of headphones may be subjective, but what is pure fact is that some of each type work better than others. A lot better
For hard-core music lovers, those fashionable, in-ear headphones supplied free with iPods, mobile phones and other portable devices are sorely lacking in most areas. Some people wisely do not want to stick anything in their ears. The most expensive earphones on the market are those with custom-made cushions, shaped to match the wearer’s ear canal in the same manner that a dentist shapes a crown or dentures; custom ﬁtting alleviates much of the discomfort. A supporting argument for this is that many professional musicians and producers need the air-tight ﬁt that such earbuds aﬀord. Even so, for some the feeling is too uncomfortable or alien. Sound quality is equally subjective: there are good and bad earbuds, just as there are good and bad over-ear headphones. In the case
of the latter, the most popular on the market – which I will not name for legal reasons – is known throughout the audio community for having some of the most unnatural sound imaginable, with nausea-inducing bass and disturbing distortion. And yet every knuckledragging Beavis on the planet aspires to a pair, because they are fashionable with a capital ‘F’. Better-quality earbuds are part of the backlash, as those who crave portability are not about to forgo the space-saving convenience of a couple of pea-sized speakers on the end of a hair-thin tether, small enough to coil into a plastic holder no bigger than a lady’s compact. Shure, Monster and Etymotic are among the brand leaders for in-ear headphones, these companies being the beneﬁciaries of Apple’s policy of supplying some truly basic ones ‘free’
King Power UNICO King Gold Carbon. UNICO column-wheel chronograph movement, 72-hour power reserve, manufactured in-house by Hublot. Case in 18K red gold crafted using a unique new alloy: King Gold. Case in carbon fiber. Black rubber bracelet.
For a list of Hublot stockists in the UK, please telephone 0207 343 7200 or e-mail email@example.com www.hublot.com â€˘
24 beAumonde | AudIo
with iPods and iPhones. Few will balk at an extra £30 or £50 for a genuine improvement in sound. What’s irritating – if you’re the sort who loses things like pens, cigarette lighters or car keys – is that the best of the earbuds from the above-named brands cost £200 and up. Some with custom-shaped cushions can nudge four ﬁgures. What they deliver for the extra money, though, is performance of a standard much closer to that of a serious audio system. Among the latest to join the in-ear brigade is Martin Logan, hitherto known for gorgeous panel-type loudspeakers. This company’s ﬁrst oﬀering is the Mikros 70, which – like most high-end headphones and earbuds for use with Apple products – is ﬁtted with Apple-approved in-line remote control and a microphone. To ensure compatibility with most listeners’ ear shapes, the Mikros 70 comes with a choice of ear tips, to ensure a snug ﬁt able to isolate ‘up to 97.8 per cent of ambient noise’, while providing deep, extended bass. The Mikros 70 earbuds’ £149 tariﬀ includes a carrying pouch, three sizes of bulb tips and two sizes of ﬂange tips. Winner of the 2012 European Imaging and Sound Association (EISA) award for European Mobile Headphone is the superbly constructed Spirit One from Focal. An over-ear design, the headphones are produced by France’s largest manufacturer of high-end audio loudspeakers, and ooze luxury. Weighing only 225g, the Spirit One is constructed around a headband of aircraft-grade aluminium and the cups contain drive units that incorporate powerful neodymium magnets, with parts made from titanium.
SonIC boom Previous page: Martin Logan Mikros 70 earbuds. This page, from top: Bowers & Wilkins P3 on-ear headphones; Focal Spirit One over-ear headphones
Now available in white, as an alternative to the original’s silver-and-black, Spirit One headphones cost £195, with interchangeable connecting cords thrown in for iPhone, iPad and iPod remote control, and a cord for those not wishing to use the remote facility. Also part of the set are a plug adapter, aeroplane connector, soft transport cover and a deluxe storage case. Bowers & Wilkins, manufacturer of some of the UK’s ﬁnest speakers for more than 40 years, produced the stylish, beautifully made on-ear P5. These became an instant market leader and were followed by the clever C5, the most comfy of earbuds because the cable loops into the outer ear to keep it in place. Just out is the folding P3, an on-ear design with superior sound and pocket-size dimensions, for £169. Available in black or white, it delivers most of the P5’s performance, but with less weight to burden the traveller. Waiting in the wings are headphones from other ‘proper hi-ﬁ’ manufacturers including Musical Fidelity, Pro-Ject and even McIntosh, the venerable American ampliﬁer maker. Along with other specialists, including Audio-Technica, Grado and Sennheiser, they’re intent on raising the standard of sound issuing from your iPod, primarily with over-ear devices. So if you prefer to hear your portable music the old-fashioned way, keep an eye on the high-end market: distorted bass is a thing of the past, and the future looks extremely promising. martinlogan.com; bowers-wilkins.co.uk; focal.com; Words Ken Kessler
watches | BRUMMeLL 27
In the zone Tourbillons and minute repeaters may look impressive on the wrist, but for sheer practicality when you travel on business, two complications alone are crucial: GMT or world time functionâ€Ś and a good mechanical alarm words Simon de Burton Photography Andy Barter
28 BRUMMELL | WATCHES
Corum Admiral’s Cup Challenger Day & Night Corum’s latest variation in its signature Admiral’s Cup line is this GMT watch which features a nifty rotating disc made from partially smoked sapphire crystal mounted on top of a world map. As the disc turns, the smoked area passes across portions of the map where it is dark, so the wearer can tell, at a glance, whether it is really an appropriate hour to make that trans-continental phone call. A small white pointer on the disc indicates the hour in the chosen second time zone. The chunky, 48mm case oﬀers 300m water resistance and, despite its apparent bulk, the watch is feather-light thanks to the use of grade-ﬁve titanium. £6,000; corum.ch
Breitling Transocean Unitime Breitling’s Transocean models are based on the look of the brand’s Fifties models and represent retro cool at its best. Now the standard chronograph and three-hand versions of the Transocean have been joined by the Unitime, a true ‘universal time’ watch which features a secondary disc marked with a 24-hour scale that provides a simultaneous at-a-glance read-out of the hour in all of the world’s 24 major time zones. Another feature of the in-house movement is that it automatically adjusts the date to local time when the watch is re-set. A version with a rose gold case is also available at around £22,000. £8,460; breitling.com
Blancpain Léman GMT As well as its additional time zone function, Blancpain’s beautifully ﬁnished Léman (which is named after Lake Geneva – Lac Léman – not a misspelling of the 24-hour motor race held in France) also features an exquisite mechanical alarm, complete with its own power-reserve indicator to reduce the danger of the wearer sleeping through its penetrating chimes. The alarm is wound and set using the additional crown on the right-hand side of the case, while the one located on the left at the eight o’clock position is used to set the GMT display – a simple push of the button moves the time zone indication on in one-hour increments. £16,420; blancpain.com
Hublot Unico GMT King Power Hublot’s Unico movement, manufactured in-house and introduced last year, has now received its ﬁrst add-on, in the form of a GMT function. As with most Hublot watches, the Unico GMT is far from conventional – it uses four rotating aluminium discs to display several time zones simultaneously, while local time is shown on the main dial in the usual way. The watch is set using a push-piece at two o’clock which lines up the disc with any of the 14 cities marked on the inner or outer bezels of the watch. It’s not exactly the simplest GMT watch on the market, but it is certainly interesting – one for connoisseurs of experimental horology. £21,400; hublot.com
Breguet Type XXII Breguet’s military-inspired Type XXII features a wealth of interesting features. In addition to its GMT function, it boasts an escapement and balance spring which oscillates at 10Hz or 72,000 vibrations per hour – three times as fast as the average chronograph and better for accuracy. As a result, the chronograph seconds hand makes a complete rotation of the dial in just 30 seconds and, thanks to the ‘ﬂyback’ function, it can be stopped, reset and restarted with a single push of the button. In keeping with Breguet’s tradition of innovation, the movement uses several parts which are made from lightweight, lubricant-free silicone. £14,400; breguet.com
Glashütte Original Senator Diary The Senator Diary from leading German brand Glashütte features the ﬁrst mechanical alarm that can be set up to 30 days in advance. It might not sound like a great feat of engineering but, in order to pull it oﬀ, Glashütte’s boﬃns had to incorporate no fewer than 631 components into the case. Powered by a third spring barrel independent of the main winding mechanism, the alarm remains set even if the watch itself is allowed to run down. The small, elongated window at the six o’clock position is used to set the hour of the alarm while the subdial at nine o’clock is used to set the date on which it will ring (for example, the day before your anniversary). £25,100; glashuette-original.com
Available at: Chester Barrie, 19 Savile Row London W1 Austin Reed Regent St, John Lewis Oxford St House of Fraser â€“ City, Reading & Guildford
N E M
OT O SH
SHOOTING | BRUMMELL
Annie, get your gun Women are making up a growing demographic of enthusiastic hunters, and one group is carving out a new etiquette on the moor Words Charlotte Metcalf Illustration Emily Forgot
I ﬁnd the Covert Girls in the Players Bar, sipping champagne on a creamy leather circular banquette beneath a glittering contemporary chandelier. The bar is all mirrors and black lacquer and the lighting decadently dim, even though it’s only about 6 o’clock on a Tuesday evening. I am one of a dozen or so women who have gathered at London’s Playboy Club on Old Park Lane to listen to a talk. You’d think we’d be here to learn how to wiggle our hips more provocatively, like the legendary Bunny Girls who are ministering to male customers in the Cottontail Lounge next door. In fact, we are here to learn about shooting. This might seem an unlikely venue for tweedy, country types but the kind of women picking up Purdeys and Berettas nowadays are just as at home sipping cocktails in a racy Mayfair bar as trudging over a grouse moor. After all, as Queen Victoria observed, ‘Only fast women shoot.’ Our hostess for the evening is Claire Zambuni, a long-legged, sleekly groomed blonde wearing an elegant black jacket and very high-heeled shoes. She could have just breezed in from the City but Claire is a columnist, member of the Worshipful Company of Gunmakers, elected council member of the British Association of
Shooting and Conservation (BASC) and founder-owner of The Shooting Society and The Covert Girls, an all-female shooting club. She’s why we’re all here, responding to her irresistible enthusiasm for country sports. It was Claire who ﬁrst persuaded me to try shooting and so one drizzly day this summer I found myself driving up the M40 with Claire and her devoted working cocker spaniel, Lola, to Holland and Holland’s shooting ground in Northwood. Founded in 1835 and now owned by Chanel, Holland and Holland has had a shooting ground here since 1928. Sweeping up the drive to a low-slung, timbered lodge looking out over 120 lush acres of beautifully planted trees, felt like being in an elegant country club in Kenya. Although the décor is distinctly masculine, with dark green leather Chesterﬁeld sofas and Lloyd Loom chairs, Holland and Holland
Hitting targets is somehow deeply satisfying and, by the end of two hours, I am exhilarated, despite a bruised cheekbone
now caters very much to women with its Green Feathers Course for beginners and its Silver Feathers Course for the more experienced. I am not bucking a trend by picking up a gun, I am joining one – today 10 per cent of the 130,000 members of BASC are women. ‘I don’t know any girl who doesn’t like coming here,’ says Claire, as she greets my teacher and chief instructor, Chris Bird. Holland and Holland has been teaching women since 1995 and since then 1,400 women have completed the Green Feathers Course. ‘We have a huge range of calibres to suit petite frames,’ Chris says, sizing me up as he leads the way into the gun room. He chooses and hands me an over-and-under 20-bore with a 28-inch barrel, and it snuggles perfectly into my shoulder. We set oﬀ to take our ﬁrst shot. Chris patiently shows me how to close my left eye and how to lean back without moving backwards. Once we’ve been through the safety procedures, I practise shooting at a sitting target followed by springing teals (vertically ﬂying clays). Each clay is designed to simulate real game and we practise the equivalent of walking up to grouse on a moor, shooting at partridges being driven out of a copse, at higher pheasants and then at rabbits. Hitting targets is somehow deeply satisfying and, by
32 BRUMMELL | SHOOTING
the end of two hours, I ﬁnd I am exhilarated and happy, despite a bruised cheekbone. Claire is delighted by another convert. It was at Holland and Holland’s shooting ground that Claire ﬁrst became hooked when she was sent to a lesson while doing some PR for a fabric manufacturer. ‘I loved it but it was so expensive and so I started the Shooting Society for my London club, Home House, and the all-girl Covert Girls sprang from there. People liked the fact I was so keen to learn and it wasn’t long before I was spending weekends in castles with captains of industry and buying my ﬁrst pair of Arietta shotguns, at £4,000,’ she says. In fact, it’s one of the ‘Covert Girls Rules’: ‘Always acquire and shoot weapons
Covert Girls’ rules include always shooting weapons beyond one’s ﬁnancial means, and never poaching each other’s men
that are beyond one’s ﬁnancial means’. Another allows poaching each other’s birds mercilessly – but never one’s men. ‘Anyone can join and gain conﬁdence shooting with like-minded girls,’ states The Covert Girls website and the club boasts 1,500 members, keen to hone their skills away from male sneers. These informal gatherings are designed to give women all the etiquette they need to breeze onto a pheasant shoot or a grouse moor without fretting that they might make a gaﬀe. Looking around at the women here tonight, I ﬁnd it hard to imagine them faltering at any social occasion, since they appear mainly to be beautifully dressed alpha females – I chat to a lawyer, a designer, a painter and a photographer. There is laughter as they gossip about shooting parties before Claire settles down to the important business of teaching us the Rules. I ﬁnd out that it’s essential to take your host a present and to hand-write a punctual letter. Never be late. Always bring enough cartridges. We learn how much to tip the keeper and how to do it (put the note in your hand and he’ll exchange it for a brace of birds at the end of the shoot) and that badly behaved dogs are infra-dig, as is swigging from your hip-ﬂask on the peg. I also glean that to enter this game you need to make a big initial outlay on clothes. It’s not good enough to turn up in wellies and jeans. You need warm waterproof boots (Claire has chocolate leather Spanish riding boots), breeks to just below the knee, gloves with a fold-back trigger ﬁnger, a warm vest and a weatherproof coat with roomy enough pockets for cartridges – oh, and never use a round lipstick or keep it in your cartridge pocket as you might load and ﬁre it. Outer clothes should be in heathery or mossy hues but socks and garters can be as ﬂamboyantly bright as you like and should be hand-knitted. Hair should be out of the way, jewellery and make-up discreet. Claire wears a Patrick Mavros silver elephant-hair hunting bracelet. ‘Since I started the Shooting Society I’ve been all over the country and spent a fortune on clothes, guns and drink basically,’ laughs Claire. Now she has even designed her own waistcoat for sale through Cordings. What Claire has grasped is that if you can shoot well as a woman, you enter a world of powerful, eligible men and so she’s teaching women not just how to raise a gun but how to raise our game so we are ready to compete on every level. She’s cleverly spotted a gap in the market for women who want to inﬁltrate a masculine world but to do it covertly and smartly. And Claire is helping The Covert Girls to do just that.
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style | BRUMMell 35
ModeRn living Opposite page: Crepe jacket, £430, and skirt, £240, both Carven at Matches. 15.52 carat Burmese sapphire ring with 1.08 carat diamond setting in white gold, price on application, Moussaieﬀ. Crystal cuﬀ ‘Circé’ bracelet, £1,480, Hermès This page: Jumpsuit, £995, dAKs. ‘Azur’ necklace in silver, £1,340, and ‘Osmose’ silver cuﬀ, £1,380, both Hermès. 15.48 carat oval ruby ring with baguette and trilliant-cut diamond surround, POA, Moussaieﬀ. Suede boots, £345, tod’s
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CIty HARVEst This page: Super-sheer wool turtleneck, £220, and wool jersey bias-panel dress, £295, both Nicole Farhi. Grey opaque tights, £18, Falke at mytights.com. Suede boots, £345, tod’s. ‘Ancient American’ 18 carat gold cuﬀ, POA, H stern at Harrods Opposite page: Coat, £824, and trousers, £319, both Paul smith. Thalassa blue calfskin ‘Toolbox’ bag, £6,420, and ‘Torsade’ silver bracelet, £3,950, both Hermès. Boots, as before, tod’s
style | BRUMMell 39
scaRlet feveR Opposite page: Dress, £1,599, lanvin at Harrods. Gold circle earrings, £229, van Der straeten at Harrods This page: Silk blouse, £599, chloé at Harrods. Knot cuﬀ, £319, van Der straeten at Harrods Make up Hina Dohi at Soho Management using Clinique Hair Perrine Rougemont at caren.co.uk Model Lizzie Tovell at Tess Photographer’s assistant Dave Hampton stylist’s assistant Cat Stirling With thanks to Candy at East Photographic STOCKISTS DETAILS: PAGE 58
It takes 35 seconds. That’s all. Just 35 seconds to ignite an explosion of ﬁns, scales and piscine fury. Thirty ﬁve seconds to hook my ﬁrst salmon – a feat obsessives spend days, weeks, months, even years attempting to perform on Scotland’s iconic rivers. True, I have an advantage. A huge advantage. I’m eight time zones and 4,500 miles away from Perthshire, on Alaska’s Upper Kenai River. One of the world’s prime ﬁshing beats, its emerald waters are patterned with crimson veins betraying the presence of thousands of sockeye salmon. It’s not shooting ﬁsh in a barrel, but it’s not far oﬀ. I have another advantage, too. I’ve just received 24 hours intensive tuition from some of the planet’s most successful anglers: the brown coastal bears of Hallo Bay in Katmai National Park. Their frenzied gorging on the million or so salmon ﬂowing into the state’s rivers from the Paciﬁc is both potent natural drama and ﬁshing masterclass. You travel for your education in these parts. Hallo Bay is one of only two camps on Katmai’s 485-mile coastline. To reach my alfresco classroom, I catch a light plane from Homer at the tip of Alaska’s southern peninsula, zipping past snow-kissed peaks, pods of grey whales and the mesmerising glaciers and valleys of Mount Douglas. We descend over fecund coastal ﬂats threaded with ribbons of water before our fat, soft tyres touch down on Hallo Bay beach. My Lord, it’s photogenic. Soft sunlight and rolling surf wash over a blond beach, backed by meadows and volcanoes: part of the Paciﬁc Ring of Fire. Just oﬀshore, the sea boils with ﬁsh. They’re stacked like planes above Heathrow, preparing to begin their spawning runs – and the bears are waiting. Over the coming weeks, they’ll pile on hundreds of pounds for winter hibernation as they devour banquets of high-fat salmon swimming along the sand’s shallow streams. My ﬁshing lesson begins almost instantly. Sitting on a bleached driftwood log, I watch Ted, a vast dominant male who’ll hit 1,000lb by the autumn, grab a premier spot near the creek entrance. As ﬁsh pour past, he demonstrates technique number one: a casual three-step shuﬄe. It looks innocuous, but his second attempt pins down two silver torpedoes. He sniﬀs their ﬂapping bodies for eggs, squeezes out the roe and takes a laconic bite from the head before tossing them away. Protein is everything. Lesson two happens at closer quarters. A young rookie male dubbed Skinny Guy – the guides know many of the 50 to 70 bears by name – makes several clumsy lunges into the teeming shallows. Each is more desperate, and equally futile. Finally, after half an hour, he snaﬄes a ten-pounder. You won’t see that on the River Tay. But it’s not a technique for the connoisseur. Indeed, it’s positively prehistoric next to the guile of Ursula, a hunting mother.
The great north run Scotland may have its salmon-ﬁshing gurus but Alaska’s summer spawn is where the real experts are – and their teeth and claws make bagging a 12lb sockeye a breeze Words Ian Belcher
Bear Behind One of the brown coastal bears of Hallo Bay, Alaska, approaches its prey of protein-rich sockeye salmon that has ﬂowed in from the Paciﬁc
travel | BrUMMell
42 BRUMMELL | TRAVEL
Ursula, a hunting mother, is Barcelona to Skinny Guy’s Stoke City… She and her two cubs herd the salmon into shallow water, where they’re picked oﬀ at a leisurely pace like canapés at a cocktail party
‘ﬁshing the bead’ – trawling small plastic balls that resemble king salmon eggs. Other ﬁsh adore them: they’re cannibalistic caviar. After bagging my 12lb sockeye salmon with hump and snarling hooked jaw - ‘He’s real pissed, Ian,’ warns Stacy. ‘Watch those mean teeth!’ – we focus on the Kenai’s legendary rainbow trout. Unlike Hampshire’s gentle chalk-stream residents, these Alaskan monsters reach up to 20lb. We wind up with several four-pounders before entering a sheersided canyon with rocks, eddies and swirling holes that the guide dubs ‘land of the giants’. He’s not joking. I hook and lose a big ’un – honestly, trust me, I’m a ﬁsherman and a journalist – before one of our team, a 20-year-old ballet dancer, displays the poise of Darcey Bussell to land a huge rainbow. ‘Holy smoke,’ drawls Stacy. ‘It’s a big, bad, 27in ’bow. Look at that girth. Holy cow!’ I couldn’t have put it better. It’s truly magniﬁcent. It’s also the high point. As the 10-hour day wears on, the bites tail oﬀ. As I make a ﬁnal unproductive cast, I’m surrounded by leaping sockeye, starving trout and an eagle sitting on a branch tucking into a freshly caught ﬁsh. ‘Know why salmon jump?’ enquires Stacy casually. ‘Er, for ﬂies?’ ‘No. ’Cause they don’t have a middle ﬁnger to ﬂick.’ How true. They’re laughing in my face – a trick they deﬁnitely wouldn’t risk in front of Ted, Alph or Ursula. cATch of ThE dAy From top: Breathtaking Alaskan scenery forms the backdrop to the annual feeding frenzy; clear waters provide a vast supply of sockeye salmon; through its regular feasting on ﬁsh a male coastal brown bear can reach as much as 1,000lb in weight by the start of winter
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She’s Barcelona to his Stoke City. After searching out deeper pools with larger shoals of ﬁsh, she and her two cubs herd the salmon into shallow water, where they’re picked oﬀ at a leisurely pace like canapés at a cocktail party. And she’s not alone. Audrey also looks for the bigger shoals, but takes a more direct approach, rushing into the water with front paws outstretched, generating a mini-tsunami that leave three or four salmon ﬂapping on the beach like live sushi. ‘Alph, our oldest, biggest bear, has a similar but less delicate style,’ explains co-owner and guide Simyra Taback over coﬀee. ‘He’ll do a deliberate belly ﬂop so his enormous weight throws the ﬁsh up onto the shore.’ Not today. Alph’s feeling camera-shy. But we watch plenty of other ﬁshing grizzlies and I’m keen to emulate their success if not their style. At times, we end up within 10 yards of fur, teeth and savage claws – testament to the unique relationship the expert guides have established with the animals. They watch from the same locations, use consistent body language and even mirror the bear’s exact movements. When Ted adopts a centrefold pose, legs akimbo, Brad does the same. In Hollywood terms, he’s the Bear Whisperer. As I depart next day, I spot Ted bobbing in the surf – a hirsute, obese professor relaxing after an intense tutorial. My next teacher may be more conventional, but he’s no tweed-clad Scottish ghillie. Stacy Corbin has ﬁshed the Upper Kenai River, two hours north of Homer, for several decades. He sports a goatee and hip shades and has a ‘Jimmy Buﬀett for President’ boat sticker. As dawn mist lifts, revealing black spruce forests, low mountains and the odd moose, we launch onto the glacial green water and start
30 inspirational women | BrUmmell 43
inspirational women in the City
This year, Brummell wanted to honour women who have been innovative and groundbreaking and, in so doing, inspired others. This list celebrates them and their contribution to the City words Rosie Steer photography Philip Sinden
44 BRUMMELL | 30 inspiRationaL woMEn
here have been several lists of exceptional women over the years. For this one, Brummell focused on women who are particularly inspiring and spur others on to do exceptional things themselves. The panel below deﬁned an inspirational woman as follows: a person who moves intellect or emotions, or prompts action and invention; a person who commits a sudden creative act or idea that is inspired; a person who is exalted – for example, a great orator for the City, or a regulator, lobby-group representative or journalist; a person who gives guidance or directly inﬂuences humanity – for example, in teaching or religion, or as an outstanding mentor. The potential pitfall with the overriding theme of ‘inspiration’ was that the process would lead to a list that favoured older women, simply because they have had more time to make their mark. The panel was therefore mindful of a younger generation that may have done something innovative and groundbreaking which, in turn, has inspired others to do the same or take further the initial idea. There is also a tendency to look at those working in the heartland of ﬁnance as obvious inspirational ﬁgures because the City is always associated in the ﬁrst instance with the ﬁnancial services. However, cities need much more than just one type of skill-set in order to function. This led the panel to consider women who make a contribution to the City in
diﬀerent ways, for example, through charity, education, policing and guilds. Even the very deﬁnition of the City proved debate-worthy – the panel discussed how wide the net could be cast in terms of the City and those inﬂuences from beyond its strict boundaries. This point resolved itself, however, as there are so many worthy females in the City that, for the sake of practicality, the panel applied geographical ﬁltering at a later stage in the selection process. These were the guiding principles, but, in addition, the panel agreed a more granular list of criteria. For example, exceptional performance in the workplace was not suﬃcient to make the ﬁnal cut – the candidates had to have more breadth in their contribution to their industry or to have demonstrated that they were putting their talents to use in other walks of life such as charities or trade associations. The panelists conducted research into likely candidates prior to making a shortlist. Then, when a list of around 50 names had been drawn up, each woman was assessed independently. Panelist Kirsten English reﬂects on the task: ‘The real challenge was to reduce a very long list to a shortlist. We have an amazing pool of female talent in the City, sourced from around the world.’ What the panel found so surprising was the breadth of the list, which numbers so many extraordinary women with very diﬀerent backgrounds and journeys through life.
KiRstEn EngLish Kirsten English began her career at Reuters before co-founding and becoming the general manager of a telecommunications company. She worked in private equity at Warburg Pincus and Terra Firma and was CEO of a fund of hedge funds listed on the London and Dublin Stock Exchanges. She is currently a non-executive director on two boards.
RachEL stEwaRt Rachel Stewart heads up markets search in the global ﬁnancial services practice at Odgers Berndtson. She has conducted renumeration studies and diversity research, and recently delivered the White Paper Alternative Perspectives: a seat on the board – a study of 100 women in hedge funds. She is director of Women in Listed Derivatives London.
DaviDa MaRston Davida Marston’s banking career spans 30 years and three continents. Her ﬁnal role was as Citigroup’s banks and securities industry regional head (United Kingdom and Ireland). She is the non-executive director of several companies in the UK and Spain and currently serves on the boards of Mears Group, Liberbank and CIT Bank.
chaRLottE cRosswELL Charlotte Crosswell is CEO of NASDAQ OMX NLX, which is launching a new market for interest-rate derivatives in Europe. She was formerly a partner and the head of business development at London-based pension management ﬁrm Pension Corporation and has held a number of management positions at the London Stock Exchange.
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30 InSPIRATIOnAL WOMEn | BRUMMELL 47
Fiona Woolf, CBE ← Partner, CMS Cameron McKenna Fiona Woolf is a partner at CMS Cameron McKenna, specialising in energy and infrastructure reforms and projects. She is renowned for her creativity in this complex, specialised ﬁeld of law, involving economics and engineering, and has advised more than 28 governments on reform, strategy and privatisation. She was awarded a CBE by the British government for her work on electricity reforms. Woolf was previously president of the Law Society of England and Wales and is a member of the Competition Commission, an alderman in the City of London and consultant to the World Bank and London Economics International. During her senior fellowship at Harvard University, she wrote Global Transmission Expansion: Recipes for Success. She is a member of the council of the London regiment of the Territorial Army.
Elizabeth Corley CEO, Allianz Global Investors Elizabeth Corley is CEO of Allianz Global Investors, a global investment manager within Allianz’s assetmanagement division. Since joining the company in 2005, she has built up its European cross-border business and is now strengthening its global footprint. She balances her corporate role with a writing career – she has published four thrillers and is a former vice-chair of the Crime Writers’ Association. She was named Most Inﬂuential Woman in Asset Management in 2009, CEO of the Year in 2011 and Most Inﬂuential Person in Asset Management in 2012 by Financial News.
Sharon Bowles MEP Member of the European Parliament for South-East England Sharon Bowles made history in 2009 when she became the ﬁrst Briton, and the ﬁrst Liberal, to chair the European Parliament’s Economic and Monetary Aﬀairs Committee (ECON). The Lib-Dem MEP for South-East England, she chairs negotiations between the European Parliament, Council of Ministers and European Commission, where rules for ﬁnancial regulation, monetary union, macro-economic policy, competition and taxation are made. She was re-elected to the chair of ECON in January 2012.
Frances Cairncross Rector of Exeter College, Oxford University Frances Cairncross is rector of Exeter College, the ﬁrst Oxford College to have a woman at its helm and to appoint a second woman leader. She is an alumna of St Anne’s College, Oxford, and Brown University. She spent 20 years at The Economist, and wrote an economic column and edited the women’s page in The Guardian. She is the author of a number of books, including The Death of Distance, which examines the economic and social impact of the internet. Cairncross spends much of her time fund-raising to support higher education.
Diana Chan CEO, EuroCCP Diana Chan left her country of birth, China, in a ﬁshing boat at the age of two to start a new life in Hong Kong. A Harvard graduate, she worked at JP Morgan and Citigroup. She joined EuroCCP in 2007 and transformed the company from a start-up to an established equities clearing house. She has championed the importance of reform, leading the development of solutions that would deliver a more eﬃcient European market infrastructure. A keen cook, Chan volunteers for the Food Chain – a charity that prepares meals for people living with HIV.
Julia Chain Managing director, Huron Legal Julia Chain is a managing director of quoted management consultancy Huron Legal, which provides strategic and operational advice to in-house legal departments and law ﬁrms. Qualifying as a solicitor, she became managing partner of Garretts, the ﬁrst woman in such a role in a top-100 UK law ﬁrm, and an Andersen international partner. She served as general counsel and executive board member of T-Mobile UK and as a non-executive director of Virgin Mobile. A trustee of the Norwood charity, Chain is a former deputy chair of the Commission for Racial Equality.
Bronwyn Curtis, OBE Executive editor and senior advisor, HSBC Bronwyn Curtis has held a number of senior roles in the City. She joined HSBC in 2008 and has built a global news team that produces high-quality editorial content for a variety of multimedia on both internal and external platforms. Prior to that, she was managing editor at Bloomberg and responsible for all European broadcasting activities. Dance was her ﬁrst love: she began her career as a professional ballet dancer before quitting to go to university. In 2008, Curtis was honoured with an OBE for services to business economics.
India Gary-Martin Managing director, technology and operations, JP Morgan India Gary-Martin has worked at some of the world’s leading investment banks, specialising in technology and operations strategy. She is currently managing director of technology and operations at JP Morgan. Prior to this, she was chief information oﬃcer at Lehman Brothers and chief operating oﬃcer at Deutsche Bank, and led the Asset Protection Scheme for RBS Global Banking and Markets. Known for championing diversity, she is president of the City Women’s Network. She is chair of the board of trustees of LEAP charity.
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30 inspirational women | BrUmmell 49
Julia Hoggett → Head of FiG Flow Financing, Covered Bonds and shortterm Fixed income origination for emea, Bank of america merrill lynch Bond-market specialist Julia Hoggett joined Bank of america merrill lynch in 2010 as managing director and head of FiG Flow Financing for emea, further building out Bank of america merrill lynch’s provision of senior unsecured and secured bond market ﬁnancing to its key ﬁnancial institution clients. Hoggett was subsequently also made head of covered bonds for emea. earlier this year, she was asked to take on additional responsibility for the short-term ﬁxed-income origination business for emea, where she covers a global spread of clients that utilise the eCp market. she has a track record of promoting diversity within the organisations for which she works, most recently in her role as co-lead of the lesbian, Gay, Bisexual and transgender employee network at Bank of america merrill lynch.
Kathryn Graham Director, Bt pension scheme management limited Kathryn Graham is a director at BT Pension Scheme Management Limited. She began her career at SG Warburg and went on to work at UBS and Progressive Alternative Investments. She is vice chair of the London Board of 100 Women in Hedge Funds, where she leads the Women on Corporate Boards initiative. In 2011, she received Hedge Funds Review’s Outstanding Contribution to the Industry by an Institutional Investor award, and is regularly included on the FN100 list of Inﬂuential Women in European Financial Markets.
noël Harwerth non-executive director, royal and sun alliance Noël Harwerth is a non-executive director of Royal and Sun Alliance. She joined the company's board risk committee as chair in 2009 and is a member of the group audit and investment committees. She is also a non-executive director of Standard Life, Avocet Mining and Harry Winston Diamond Corporation. She was previously partnership director of London Underground and chief operating oﬃcer of Citibank International. Harwerth is a member of the International Women’s Forum, Guild of International Bankers and Committee of 200.
Baroness Hogg Chairman, Financial reporting Council Baroness Hogg has worked at a high level in business, government and the media. She was head of the Prime Minister’s Policy Unit from 1990-1995 and has provided economics coverage for various publications, including The Economist, The Times and the Daily Telegraph and was involved in the setting up of The Independent. She is chair of the Financial Reporting Council, senior independent director of BG Group plc, lead independent director of HM Treasury and a director of the John Lewis Partnership. She also chairs Frontier Economics Ltd.
Gay Huey evans non-executive director, aviva and the london stock exchange Group Gay Huey Evans is one of the highest-proﬁle female executives in the City, bringing extensive knowledge and experience of capital markets and regulatory design and process to the various boards on which she sits. She is currently non-executive director of Aviva and the London Stock Exchange Group, and a board member at Clariden Leu (Europe) Ltd and the Financial Reporting Council. She also sits on several charitable boards, including Wellbeing of Women and the Wigmore Hall Trust.
00 50 BRUMMELL | 30 FEATURE TITLE InspIRATIOnAL wOMEn
Angela Knight, CBE CEO, Energy UK Angela Knight was recently appointed chief executive of Energy UK, a new trade association for the energy sector that was formed in April this year. Previously, she was CEO of both the British Bankers’ Association and of the Association of Private Client Investment Managers and Stockbrokers. Knight began her career in politics, as Private Secretary to the Rt Hon Kenneth Clarke MP and then Economic Secretary to the Treasury from 1995-1997. She was honoured with a CBE in 2007 for her contribution to the ﬁnancial services industry.
Amanda Mackenzie Chief marketing and communications Oﬃcer, Aviva Amanda Mackenzie is chief marketing and communications oﬃcer of Aviva on the group executive committee and is its sponsor for diversity. She is a member of Lord Davies’ steering group to encourage the appointment of more women on boards. An active philanthropist, she mentors both for the Marketing Academy and at Aviva. She is also president of the Marketing Society and a board member of the National Youth Orchestra of Great Britain. Mackenzie joined the board of Mothercare as a non-executive director in January 2011.
Gwen Rhys ←
sally Dewar →
Founder, networking Culture Gwen Rhys has worked extensively in the corporate sector and set up networking Culture in 1996. she advises a range of organisations on how to build and nurture social capital – her clients include global corporates, national charities, professional-services organisations, universities and trade associations. In the mid-nineties, as chief executive of westminster Enterprise Agency, Rhys founded a network for female entrepreneurs. she set up women in the City in 2003 – an organisation that promotes female talent. The women in the City Foundation and internship programme supports young women in business.
Managing Director, Jp Morgan sally Dewar is highly respected in the ﬁeld of ﬁnancial regulation. she spent 10 years at the Financial services Authority in the UK and, as board member and managing director of Risk, she was one of the FsA’s highest-ranking female staﬀ members. she was responsible for the ﬁnancial watchdog’s policy direction, risk-management process, governance and markets oversight. she joined the FsA in 2002, having previously worked as ﬁnance chief of LeisureHunt.com and at the London stock Exchange. Dewar is currently the managing director and a senior member of Jp Morgan’s company-wide international regulatory risk team, developing the company’s global responses to regulatory initiatives. she is also a member of the European securities and Markets stakeholder group.
Heather McGregor CEO, Taylor Bennett Heather McGregor is CEO of Taylor Bennett, which specialises in investor relations and corporate communications appointments. She purchased the company in 2004 and subsequently set up the Taylor Bennett Foundation, which supports increased representation of black and ethnic-minority graduates in the communications industry. A founding committee member of the 30% Club, she chairs Careers Academy UK. She is the author of Mrs Moneypenny’s Careers Advice for Ambitious Women, writes for the weekend Financial Times and presents the TV series SuperScrimpers.
Julie Meyer Founder and CEO, Ariadne Capital Julie Meyer is a leading champion of entrepreneurship in Europe and the UK as a force for growth and inclusion. She founded Ariadne Capital in 2000, creating a new model for the ﬁnancing of entrepreneurship: ‘Entrepreneurs Backing Entrepreneurs’. Meyer was one of the BBC’s online ‘Dragons’ in the award-winning Dragon’s Den Online in 2009 and 2010. Most recently, she founded Entrepreneur Country – a community for leading and emerging entrepreneurs, investors, the media and corporate partners who service the start-up industry.
00 BRUMMELL | FEATURE TITLE
00 FEATURE TITLE | BRUMMELL 53 30 INSPIRATIONAL WOMEN
Vanessa Vallely ←
Marisa Drew →
Founder, WeAreTheCity.com, and co-founder, Network of Networks Vanessa Vallely encourages diversity in the workplace across the globe and is considered one of the best-connected women in the City. Her background is in banking and ﬁnance and she co-founded the Network of Networks – a City-wide diversity network that includes diversity heads from 45 FTSE ﬁrms. She also founded leading women’s network and website WeAreTheCity.com. Vallely is always keen to pass on her knowledge and currently mentors 15 women globally in banking and ﬁnance. She and her husband Stewart have been working on creating a new-job board for women, Careers City, on WeAreTheCity.com, which aims to improve the access to and visibility of positions at all levels and in all sectors. Vanessa is a passionate charity fundraiser and volunteer and is a Pearly Queen of the City of London.
Managing director, Credit Suisse Investment Banking Division Marisa Drew is widely acknowledged as one of the most inﬂuential people in investment banking. She is currently managing director of the investment banking division of Credit Suisse and global co-head of the Global Markets Solutions Group. Actively involved in recruitment, diversity initiatives and philanthropy, she is founder of the Competitors’ Diversity Forum and a member of Committee 200, an organisation comprised of the top women in business globally. Drew chairs Credit Suisse’s Women in Banking Committee and sits on the industry advisory board, Women in Banking and Finance.
Helena Morrissey, CBE CEO, Newton Investment Management Helena Morrissey is regarded as one of the most inﬂuential women in asset management, and is involved in many aspects of the UK fund-management industry. She was the ﬁrst female director of the UK’s Investment Management Association, serving from 2005 to 2012. In 2010, she founded the 30% Club, an initiative that aims to achieve 30 per cent female representation on UK corporate boards by 2015 through voluntary, business-led change. This year, she was awarded a CBE for her contribution to business. She is married with nine children.
Vanessa Ogden Headteacher, Mulberry School for Girls Vanessa Ogden is headteacher of Mulberry School for Girls, a high-achieving and over-subscribed comprehensive school in the London borough of Tower Hamlets. She campaigns for the highestquality education in inner-city schools, encouraging businesses to support schools for children who live in poverty. She is a trustee of Teach First and has been awarded the status of a National Leader in Education by the National College of School Leadership. Ogden is a visiting fellow at the Institute of Education and a widely published writer.
Nicola Shaw CEO, HS1 Ltd; non-executive director, Aer Lingus; and trustee, Transaid Nicola Shaw is passionate about public transport – a sector she has contributed much to throughout her career. She attained a position in the senior civil service before the age of 30 and was an executive director on the board of then FTSE 100 FirstGroup before she was 40. She has degrees from both the University of Oxford and Massachusetts Institute of Technology, has worked for London Transport and the World Bank and is currently CEO of HS1 Ltd, non-executive director of Aer Lingus and trustee of Transaid.
Sally Tennant CEO, Kleinwort Benson Sally Tennant was appointed chief executive of Kleinwort Benson in 2011 and prior to this, was CEO of Lombard Odier and Schroders Private Banking. She spent nearly 10 years at Gartmore plc and went on to co-found Beaumont Capital Management – an absolute-return boutique purchased by Schroders in 2001. Tennant has a degree in politics from the University of Durham and spent her early career at Morgan Grenfell Asset Management and SG Warburg. She is co-chair and trustee of Tommy’s, the baby charity, and also a trustee of children’s charity the STARS Foundation.
54 BRUMMELL | 30 00 FEATURE INSPIRATIONAL TITLE WOMEN
Delyth Evans ← Executive director, Dress for Success London Delyth Evans was a news and current-aﬀairs journalist for 10 years before going into politics, becoming a deputy minister in the ﬁrst Labour government of the National Assembly for Wales. She is executive director of Dress for Success London – a volunteerled charity that helps women on low incomes get back to work, oﬀering training for interviews, corporate social responsibility programmes and professional clothes to wear. She is also on the Board of the Welsh Film Agency.
Janet Williams Deputy assistant commissioner, Metropolitan Police Service Janet Williams joined the Met in 1982 and spent her career in uniform and as a detective before specialising in organised crime, counter-terrorism, security and protection. She led the police planning of the security build-up and international liaison for the London 2012 Games, and VIP protection and planning at Heathrow. She leads the Association of Chief Police Oﬃcers’ national response to e-crime and is a member of the UK Cyber Security Board. Williams founded London’s Cross-Sector Safety and Security Communications Charity.
Dr Herta von Stiegel Founder and CEO, Ariya Capital Group Ltd Herta von Stiegel has 25 years of international management experience. Ariya, the FSAregulated ﬁnancial services ﬁrm that she founded, focuses on clean energy and infrastructure investments in Africa. Prior to this, she held senior positions at AIG, Citibank, Rabobank and JP Morgan. She is founder and former chair of the Prince’s Trust Women’s Leadership Group and author of the book, The Mountain Within: Leadership Lessons and Inspiration for Your Climb to the Top. She is also the co-producer of the ﬁlm of the same title.
Anne Glover, CBE CEO and co-founder, Amadeus Capital Partners Limited European technology investor Amadeus CEO Anne Glover combines specialist knowledge and experience of science and operations. She was previously CEO of Virtuality Group and worked in America at Cummins Engine Company and Bain & Co. A member of the London Business School’s Private Equity Institute Advisory Board, she serves on the boards of Glysure, Covestor, Nomad and the Royal Society Enterprise Fund. She was awarded a CBE for services to business in 2006 and is an honorary fellow of the Royal Academy of Engineering.
Mei Sim Lai Master of the Worshipful Company of World Traders Mei Sim Lai was appointed Master of the Worshipful Company of World Traders in 2012 – the ﬁrst Master of Chinese origin in City livery company history. She initially trained as a chartered accountant and was the ﬁrst female partner at leading City chartered accountants, Pridie Brewster. In 2007, she set up her own chartered accountancy ﬁrm LaiPeters & Co. She is board member of the Arab Women International Forum and nonexecutive director of International Women of Excellence. Lai won the 2012 Asian Women of Achievement Award for Public Service.
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00 56 BRUMMELL | 30 inspiRationaL woMEn
And the shortlist in its entirety…
Sharon Bowles Frances Cairncross Diana Chan Julia Chain Elizabeth Corley Bronwyn Curtis Sally Dewar Marisa Drew Delyth Evans India Gary-Martin Anne Glover Kathryn Graham Noël Harwerth Baroness Hogg Julia Hoggett
Gay Huey Evans Angela Knight Mei Sim Lai Amanda Mackenzie Heather McGregor Julie Meyer Helena Morrissey Vanessa Ogden Gwen Rhys Nicola Shaw Sally Tennant Vanessa Vallely Dr Herta von Stiegel Janet Williams Fiona Woolf
Brummell would like to thank the panel – Kirsten English, Rachel Stewart, Davida Marston and Charlotte Crosswell – for their time, expertise and inspiration; the staﬀ of George club; and Dior Watches and Jewellery, who kindly loaned beautiful pieces for the shoots. dior.com; georgeclub.com
Photograph by Brett using a Leica M9 with Noctilux-M 50mm f/0.95 ASPH. 1/1500s ISO 160
BE INSPIRED. At the Leica Akademie Mayfair, we host a variety of workshops, training and advice sessions for photographers and nature lovers alike. Our photographic workshops offer you the chance to experience Leica products in practical, hands-on sessions, as well as more creative photography-based sessions to enhance your knowledge and skills. For specific workshops, we offer the use of a personal Apple iMac workstation, providing the best possible training experience. Whatever your level of knowledge, our professional Leica tutors and experts can teach you all you need to know in a one-to-one demonstration, or as part of a longer workshop, both in the field of photography and Leicaâ€™s precision optics products. Our complete range of Akademie workshops can be seen in detail at www.leica-akademie.co.uk where you can choose the one that best suits your needs. Please contact the Leica Akademie Mayfair for available workshop dates and times, and to reserve your place.
Leica Akademie Mayfair | 34 Bruton Place | London | W1J 6NR Workshop bookings and enquiries: Tel: +44 (0) 20 7629 1351 / +44 (0) 7514 539566 email@example.com | www.leica-akademie.co.uk
58 BRUMMELL | BY GEORGE
Private world At George, the member’s restaurant and bar in the heart of Mayfair, the clientele is as mixed and as interesting as its decor and history
Located on Mayfair’s Mount Street, George is a contemporary member’s restaurant and bar. Started by Mark Birley and his daughter India Jane in 2001, George became the latest in a long and illustrious line of clubs, beginning with Birley’s legendary ﬁrst club Annabel’s, in 1963. Carolin Rist, membership and events manager at George explains, ‘We wanted George to be a place where women would feel relaxed about coming to have a drink alone or with friends. Layout is important for any successful bar; no one wants to be perched on top of a stool feeling self-conscious. At George we aim for something much more comfortable – an extension of our members’ homes.’ Housed in one of Mount Street’s signature ornate buildings, the area was smartened up in the late 19th century as part of a regeneration by the Duke of Westminster. At that time, Mount Street was also home to an estate agent, a dyer, a bookseller, a builder and a ﬁshmonger. Today, there has been another sort of revamp, with Marc Jacobs, Christian Louboutin and Roland Mouret all nearby. Members of any other club in the ‘Birley Group’ can use George for breakfast, when
London’s powerbrokers get to work either in the Nantucket-inspired, ground-ﬂoor dining room, hung with works by David Hockney, or on the outside terrace, where laptops are welcome. The net of members is cast wide, from the worlds of ﬁnance and art to fashion. ‘We take great care to make sure everyone is suitable before they sign up’, notes Rist. ‘One guest was amazed recently that I could remember not just her name but also her maiden name. I could also recall the day she joined and what her favourite cocktail was. But discretion is what’s most essential.’ George’s downstairs bar is an inviting space that comes into its own in the evening, blending an eclectic mix of Art Deco and modern art, and it’s clear that, at George, the personal touch counts. As Rist says, ‘I’ve learnt to gauge people’s moods. For instance, I can tell when the hedge fund boys have had a bad day. The world seems a better place after one of our delicious pear and chilli martinis’. 87/88 Mount Street, London W1K 2SR; georgeclub.com. For membership, call 020 7629 2350 or email firstname.lastname@example.org Words Lucy Teasdale
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BESPOKE PrOmOtiOn | BrUmmELL 07
Shine factor Two recent exhibitions highlighted the ambitious scope of Jeﬀ Koons’s work, writes George Pendle
It is no overstatement to say that Jeﬀ Koons is the most loved, and loathed, artist of the age. To some he is a demonic maker of kitsch baubles, to others he is the delightfully light-hearted creator of modern icons. What is not in question is his extraordinary success. When his ‘Balloon Flower (Magenta)’ – a huge, precision-engineered, stainless steel sculpture of a ﬂower made of twisted balloons – sold at Christie’s in 2008 for £12,921,250, it was a record for a living artist. There was perhaps no better way to understand both the ecstasy, and the fury, that surrounds Koons than in the recent exhibition of his sculptures amongst the priceless
in association with
antiquities of the Liebieghaus Skulpturensammlung in Frankfurt, which ran concurrently with a show of his paintings at the Schirn Kunsthalle, with both exhibitions sponsored by Bank of America Merrill Lynch. Here was perhaps Koons’s most infamous work, ‘Michael Jackson and Bubbles’ (1988), a porcelain and gold-leaf life-size statue of the pop star and his pet, placed amid the museum’s prized collection of ancient Egyptian sarcophagi. Similarly Koons’s ‘Woman in Tub’ (1988), a sculpture of a cheap, dirty postcard showing a woman being harassed by a snorkel in the bath, could be found plonked in front of an ornate altar by
the Renaissance sculptor Andrea della Robbia. Surely this was blasphemy! Yet after the initial knee-jerk fury, the two sculptures, taken from Koons’s notorious Banality series, seemed somehow, crazily, to blend in with their august surroundings. Jackson’s deathly pallor and kohl-lined eyes reﬂected the similarly painted faces of the pharaohs. A frisson could be felt between an ancient power and a distinctly modern one, of kings of places and kings of pop attempting to defy death through artistry. Similarly ‘Woman in Tub’ seemed to chime improbably with the holy scene behind it, the woman’s brutally foreshortened head mimicking the bodiless
Previous page Jeﬀ Koons © Schirn Kunsthalle Frankfurt. This page, 1 ‘Rabbit’ (1986) ©Jeﬀ Koons; 2 Jeﬀ Koons: The Painter at Schirn Kunsthalle Frankfurt; 3 ‘Michael Jackson and Bubbles' (1988) © Jeﬀ Koons
heads of the altar’s putti. Indeed, when seen in collaboration with the Koons, was there not something outré about the altar piece itself? That’s the thing about Koons – his work may seem insubstantial on the surface, but it is deeply rooted in the history of art. It insists on being taken seriously. Born in York, Pennsylvania in 1955, Koons studied as a painter at the School of the Art Institute of Chicago, but downed his brush in the late Seventies to concentrate on ‘readymades’, the modiﬁed ‘found’ objects championed most famously by Marcel Duchamp. Koons’s earliest series of work consisted of store-bought inﬂatable ﬂowers and rabbits. There was something about the visual intensity of these throwaway toys, a rich
in association with
synthetic charge they gave oﬀ, that was for Koons like a modern-day totem. As his artistic vision grew more expansive, Koons realised he would need more funds to fulﬁll it. His decision to work as a commodities trader for Smith Barney quickly became art folklore, especially as he turned out to be quite successful at it. He specialised in cotton, telling his clients, ‘Cotton is light… it’s ﬂuﬀy… you can’t get hurt by cotton!’ It was a mantra that could equally be applied to Koons’s work which has always seemed irredeemably upbeat. Koons used his trading proﬁts to cast aqualungs, basketballs, snorkels and an inﬂatable raft in solid bronze. The visual conundrum of a light object being cast in a heavy material would return time and
again in his work (witness his more recent work in which cheap pool inﬂatables are painstakingly recreated out of aluminium, complete with the tell-tale creases of inﬂated plastic). He seemed to be joyously reaching for the eternal, using the temporary products of everyday life. By the late Eighties, Koons had become one of the biggest names in American contemporary art, harnessing the media to make each new show a spectacle as Picasso and Dalí had done before him. His Banality series’ assimilation of what most people would call kitsch, and its triumphant reassessment of these items as a new iconography for the age, was both shocking and yet seemingly inevitable. Koons has continued on this path
00 BESPOKE PROMOTION A BRUMMELL| PROMOTION BRUMMELL 09
Current and upcoming Arts and Culture initiatives 5 September – 10 November 2012
Hedda Gabler Sheridan Smith stars in Brian Friel’s contemporary adaptation of Ibsen’s masterpiece on the conﬂict of the requirements of society and those of the individual. Old Vic Theatre, London 3 October 2012 – 20 January 2013
Gaze: The Changing Face of Portrait Photography, Works from the Bank of America Collection An exhibition of photographic portraiture from 56 diﬀerent photographers, covering numerous photographic processes and a span of over 160 years. Istanbul Modern Museum, Istanbul 23 October 2012
Live cinema screening of Swan Lake Part of the Royal Opera House Cinema Season. For details go to cinema.roh.org.uk Various cinema locations globally 20 November 2012 – 2 March 2013
Kiss Me Kate Sir Trevor Nunn directs this dazzling Cole Porter classic. This exuberant show-within-a-show throws together gangsters and romance against a backdrop of a musical production of Taming of the Shrew. Old Vic Theatre, London 13 December 2012
Live cinema screening of The Nutcracker Royal Opera House Cinema Season 15 January 2013
Live cinema screening of La Bohème Royal Opera House Cinema Season 20 February – 27 May 2013
of elevating cultural detritus into serious artistic concerns ever since. Whether it be ‘Rabbit’, his 1986 sculpture of an inﬂatable rabbit, or ‘Puppy’ (1992), a 43ft topiary sculpture of a terrier puppy, Koons has created some of the most iconic images of the past 30 years. They are also some of the most expensive. Koons’s work is ﬂawless, luxurious, and available only to the world’s richest and most inﬂuential. A duplicate of 'Puppy' (the original stands outside Bilbao’s Guggenheim) costs its owner, Peter Brant, the newspaper tycoon, approximately £63,000 a year just to maintain. In this Koons’s art resembles that of the Liebieghaus collection on a whole other level: he is creating the priceless antiquities of today.
Lichtenstein: A Retrospective The ﬁrst major retrospective of the artist in over 20 years, bringing together 125 of his most deﬁnitive paintings and sculptures and reassessing his legacy. Tate Modern, London 20 February 2013
Live cinema screening of Eugene Onegin Royal Opera House Cinema Season 28 March 2013
Live cinema screening of Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland Royal Opera House Cinema Season
For more information, go to: http://museums.bankofamerica.com/arts/