Appétit_Volume 216

May 2050

Appétit

Vol um e 216

Enjoy delicacy at your call.

HEYTEA TAKES OVER

QUARANTINE MEALS

TOP SEAFOOD SPLURGE

Editor’s Letter

Table of Contents

6 / What Does Home Mean To You?

03

01

Liquors

& Sweets

Dining In

40 / Drinks

42 / Warm Beverages

14 / Soup It Up 16 / The Perfect Steak 18 / Greek Orange Cake 20 / Grab And Go

02

Night Out 24 / Best In Small Sips 28 / Playing With Fire 32 / Top Seafood Splurge

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Table of Contents

04

Features 42 / HEYTEA Takes Over

50 / Quarantine Meals

60 / Gluten-Free Recipes

68 / What To Grow During Isolation

74 / Meal Planning & Prepping

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Editor’s Letter

What Does Home Mean To You? These days, staying in can feel a lot more like going out, and vice versa.

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here was a time when “dining in” and “night out” meant two very different things. “Home cooking” conjured up the sort of elemental foods that might have emerged from your grandmother’s oven on a chilly winter night: slow-cooked brisket, gooey mac and cheese. Home meant simple, familiar and, above all, comforting.

Meanwhile, “night out” meant something more rarefied. We dressed, behaved and ate differently in restaurants. We sat up straight and never put our elbows on the table. We looked to restaurants for exotic flavors and showstopping creations that only a professional kitchen could pull off. You wouldn’t try to re-create those for Tuesdaynight supper any more than you’d go to a four-star restaurant and order a chicken potpie.

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Chalk it up to a new generation of restaurant-goers, to the trend toward casualization or to the fact that Americans are eating out more than ever before: High-end restaurants are stripping away the patina of formality and taking on the familiar trappings of home. Take, for example, St. Anselm in Brooklyn, New York. You’ll find our story and mouthwatering recipes in our latest issue, on newsstands now. by

E d i t o r N i l o u M o t a me d

N i lo u M otam e d

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Contributors

Editor

Nilou Motamed @niloumotamed Passionate about food and liquor, which she believes are the cure for everything. She loves to cook at home, and also enjoys great food from restaurants.

Blogger

Alanna Taylor-Tobin @the_bojon_gourmet Recovering pastry chef, food photographer, author of IACP awardwinning Alternative Baker.

Blogger

Joanne Rappos P hotographer

@theoliveandmango She has inspiring ideas for delicious home cooking. A Food blogger. Her husband is a photographer that works together with her blog.

Dylan Swart @dylan_swart A commercial and editorial food photographer. His work is centered around creating bold visuals by combining beautiful food and interesting light.

Chef

Leah Cohen @leahscohen She is the chef and owner of Pig & Khao restaurant and Piggyback NYC. Recipient of a 2013 StarChefs Rising Stars Award. Author of Lemongrass and Lime.

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Dining In

01 16 / Soup It Up 18 / The Perfect Steak 20 / Greek Orange Cake 22 / Grab And Go

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Soup

DINING IN / Appetizer

S Kicker Head: Inspiring ideas for delicious home cooking

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It Up

oup season calls for lots of experimenting in the kitchen.

I have a few coming your way that I love, but first up is this beet soup. I had saved a recipe for golden beet soup long ago and remembered it when I started spotting golden beets at the grocery store. Golden beets are very much the same in taste if you are comparing them to red ones. They do have a more subtle earthiness than the red ones and tend to be a bit sweeter.

They are not as vibrant looking but

With an appetizing soup to start the meal, the ultimate taste of this pumpkin cream soup would amaze you. by

no less pretty. Some varieties are beautifully striated in the same way as some varieties of radishes are. That doesn’t really make a difference in this recipe though as they get blitzed in the blender anyways. We used the beets in the soup and steamed the beet greens and enjoyed them with a lemon/olive oil vinaigrette – nothing gets wasted!

Beets have a very earthy sweet flavour that only intensifies when you roast them. Technically you can make this soup by just boiling everything in

J o h a nn H e a d l e y

a pot but you will definitely miss that extra bit of flavour boost that roasting gives to the beets and the apples.

Most veggie soups benefit greatly from roasting the veggies first and so I strongly recommend it. The apples get beautiful caramelized and the beets develop a nuttier sweeter flavour. The two together are so fabulous and the apples balance out that earthiness of the beets that some people find off putting (they reduce the dirt taste as some describe it) as do the rest of the veggies.

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DINING IN / Entree

The Perfect

Steak The way to cook a michelinlevel steak at home. by

Y

C at h y J ac o b s

ou can pay a lot of money when going out to a restaurant for a nice, flavorful steak dinner. Or you can stay home and make it yourself! All you need is a good steak, a cast-iron skillet, a gas grill with side burner (or stovetop and oven), butter and a high-smoke-point oil (like avocado oil), salt and pepper, and a pair of longhandled tongs.

Using a cast-iron skillet is one of the best methods to cook your steak, but you also need to make sure you begin with a good steak to get the best results. Talk to your butcher about getting a nice cut of meat like a boneless ribeye steak— boneless because the bone can reduce contact with the pan and, therefore, reduce the amount of caramelization on the outside of the meat. Look for a “choice” or “prime” grade steak, though keep in mind prime grade will cost a lot more.

You should also have a good instantread digital thermometer for taking the internal temperature of the steak. You don’t want to cut into the meat until you’re ready to eat, so having this tool is the best way to determine doneness.

Also, keep in mind—this cooking method uses extreme temperatures that can melt through oven mitts so be very careful!

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DINING IN / Dessert

Greek

Orange

Cake

This is a super simple Greek dessert in the category of desserts - meaning the ones soaked in some sort of luscious syrup. by

Recipe

Makes one 9x13 cake or two 9 inch round cakes

Ingredients

For The Syrup . 2½ cups granulated sugar . 2½ cups water . Juice of 3 oranges (zest before juicing for the cake) For The Cake . Zest of three oranges (zest the ones you will use for the syrup) . 2 organic oranges . One 454 g package of Irresistibles phyllo pastry dough . 250 g (1 cup) granulated sugar . 250 g (1 cup) olive oil . 250 g (1 cup) Irresistibles Skyr Icleandic yoghurt . 1 tsp baking powder . 1 tsp baking soda . 1 tsp vanilla extract . 3 eggs . 1 -2 oranges sliced to decorate (optional)

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Olive & Mango

Directions

Remove frozen phyllo from the package and place it on one large baking sheet or 2 medium ones lined with parchment paper.Break it up into pieces and spread it around evenly on the baking sheet. Leave it to dry completely overnight (thawed sheets can be separated and crumpled and let to sit out to dry for a few hours as well) or place in the oven and bake/ dehydrate for approx 1 hour at 150-200°F, shaking the pan to redistribute the phyllo a few times. Once dry or dehydrated (allow to cool if you baked it) then use your hands to break it up into small pieces.

While the phyllo is drying place two organic oranges in a small sauce pan and cover with cold water. Bring to boil and then lower the heat and simmer the oranges for 1 hour. (I usually dehydrate the phyllo in the oven while I simmer the oranges).

Drain and once cool enough to handle cut in half,squeeze out all the juice and seeds from them, reserving the pulp and skin, placing them in a food processor or blender.

Along with the orange pulp and skin add the zest, the olive oil and the sugar and process/blend them together into a smooth paste. Then add the egg, yoghurt and vanilla, baking powder and soda into the processor and process until fully combined. Transfer to a large mixing bowl.

Preheat your oven to 320°F and lightly grease a 9x13 inch pan or two 9 inch cake pans.

In the same pot you boiled the oranges in make your syrup. Place the sugar and water in the pot and bring to a boil.

Once it comes up to a boil remove from heat and stir to make sure the sugar is completely dissolved, stir in juice from the 3 oranges and set aside to cool completely.

Now fold in the phyllo crumbles to the wet ingredients 1-2 cups at a time until fully incorporated but not over mixing.

Then pour into the baking pan and if you wanted to add some thinly sliced oranges decoratively over the batter now is the time then place in a preheated oven and bake until golden and set approx 40-45 minutes. If using two 9 inch pans check doneness at 30-35 minutes.

Once done remove from oven and immediately ladle the cool syrup gently over the warm cake. Let it rest for 30 minutes and then slice and serve.

Kicker head: How to make a greek orange phyllo cake (portokalopita)

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Grab And Go

DINING IN / Breakfast

Apple Cranberry Baked Oatmeal. It makes the perfect quick, healthy breakfast or snack and everyone is happy.

Ingredients . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Instructions

Preheat the oven to 375°F and frease a 9-inch square baking dish or skillet.

In a medium mixing bowl, combine the oats, toasted nuts, spices, baking powder, and salt.

In another small bowl whisk the milk, maple syrup, egg, the butter, and vanilla.

Reserve a few slices of apple and a few cranberries for topping the baked oatmeal, then arrange the remaining apples and cranberries evenly over the bottom of the baking dish or skillet.

Cover the fruit with the dry oat mixture, then drizzle the wet ingredients over the oats. Gently wriggle the skillet to make sure the milk works its way down through the oats and the fruit and then gently pat down any dry oats resting on top.

Scatter the remaining cranberries and apples over top along with the Bob’s Red Mill Pan-Baked Cranberry Almond Granola Bake for 40-45 minutes, until the top, is nice and golden and oatmeal is just set. Remove from the oven and let it cool for a few minutes then slice and serve with extra fruit.

The oatmeal keeps well in the refrigerator, covered, for 4 to 5 days.

You can reheat individual portions in the microwave before serving.

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by

C o o k i e A n d K at e

Two-thirds cup roughly chopped almonds toasted 2 cups Bob’s Red Mill Old-fashioned Rolled oats 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon ¼ tsp cardamom 1 teaspoon baking powder ½ teaspoon salt 1¾ cups almond milk (or other dairy or no-dairy milk) One-third cup maple syrup 2 large eggs 1 tablespoon melted unsalted butter 2 teaspoons vanilla extract 2 cups chopped apple of your choice ½ cup cranberries fresh of frozen 1 cup of Bob’s Red Mill Pan-Baked Cranberry Almond Granola

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02 Night Out

26 / Best In Small Sips 30 / Playing With Fire 34 / Top Seafood Splurge

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Best

NIGHT OUT / Yopparai

in Small Sips

Yopparai, a modest sake bar that opened in March, is a sort of speakeasy by happenstance. by

L i g aya M i s h a n

Evan Sung for The New York Times

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T feels illicit, to be hovering here on the crumbly stoop of a Lower East Side tenement. Press the buzzer, and a voice, garbled, exacts your name.

The doorknob clicks, and you blink a moment in the bright foyer, until a pocket door skids open and a figure in black, behind a curtain of ropes, beckons.

But the payoff is no latter-day opium den with a slinky soundtrack and cocktails set on fire. Yopparai, a modest sake bar that opened in March, isn’t playing hard to get. It is a speakeasy by happenstance, simply making the best of its awkward perch in a repurposed railroad apartment.

No password is required, although a reservation helps, as there are only 30 seats. And the people who work here seem genuinely happy to have been found.

The husband-and-wife owners, Gaku and Christy 26

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Shibata, work the floor. Mr. Shibata, a Tokyo native and a sommelier, tends bar while Ms. Shibata, a ChineseAmerican and, by day, an executive at NBCUniversal, gracefully keeps guests from noticing how tight the space is.

(The chef, Junya Miura, is also from Tokyo.)

In lieu of bar stools are cushioned benches for two, with cabinets below for stowing belongings, each locked with a wooden key that you might mistake for a miniature cutting board. Everything is designed to unknot the mind: sake poured in doll-size cups, forcing you to sip; a cloudy undertow of jazz.

Yopparai means drunkard in Japanese, and sake is the mission here, with food in a supporting role. This means small plates and rustic snacks, like quenelles made with deep-fried shrimp and black cod, soaking up dashi broth

Kicker Head: A Michelin Guide Restaurant

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Evan Sung for The New York Times ($14), and charred chicken meatballs with a sweet scarlet varnish, four to a skewer ($6).

Humblest, and most comforting, is oden, a stew whose long-simmered ingredients might include meaty black daikon; hard-boiled eggs, stained like old photographs; chikuwabu, a tubular, glutinous dumpling; mochi kinchaku, chewy rice in a jacket of fried tofu; and cakes of puréed and steamed fish whose composition it is better not to question ($15 for five items, $10 for three). The bowl comes with a daub of mustard on the rim; stir it in and the broth goes from wallflower to dancing on the bar.

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alted squid guts ($6) were pilloried in an episode of “Fear Factor” in which Miss U.S.A. contestants were required to chug a thermos of the stuff. But note that those tangled translucent noodles are not innards, merely slices from the squid’s body. The “guts” are in the accompanying sauce, which is made from the squid’s liver. Think marine foie gras, and it will go down easier. (Then banish the memory with a chaser of voluptuous Wakatake Onikoroshi sake, also known as Demon Slayer.)

The well-curated sake list spills over into the dishes.

Wasabi stems are pickled in sake lees, the sweet-sour,

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umami-rich residue from the sake-making process ($6). King salmon is marinated in specially imported lees from Dassai daiginjo, in which half the rice kernel is polished away before fermentation ($13). For dessert, a precarious mound of shaved ice is drenched with a tart yuzu-saturated sake ($6). Be sure to dive to the bottom, where the sake has pooled under the ice, ready to crystallize your blood.

At a certain point, a lightness of being takes over.

You may find yourself slightly weepy over fragments of sea urchin, clinging to ribbons of raw squid ($9), or a scrambled egg slowly setting in a shallow clay pot, engulfing hunks of freshwater eel in a still-seething dashi broth ($18); or strips of Washu beef (a hybrid of Black Angus and American Wagyu) roasting on a hoba leaf over a brazier wrapped in rice paper ($15). It is hard to feel worthy of the negitoro, sublimely fatty, pale-ruby tuna chopped fine and tossed with curls of scallion ($18). (But you must say a prayer for the dwindling bluefin.)

At Yopparai, you eat the way you drink, in tiny mouthfuls. And so the hours drift. You will not notice.

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NIGHT OUT / St. Anselm

Playing With

Fire

St. Anselm, in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, reinvented itself as a neighborhood place.

Kicker Head: Best Steak in Williamsburg

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t. Anselm is a restaurant on Metropolitan Avenue in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, right where Havemeyer Street doglegs out of its run of wig shops and bodegas to become residential. It is an offshoot of Joe Carroll’s barbecue restaurant Fette Sau, across the street, and of his bar Spuyten Duyvil, next door.

St. Anselm first opened in 2010 as a highbrow-lowbrow bar-food mecca, known primarily for foie-gras pirogies and a deep-fried hot-dog sandwich called the Newark Double. It closed soon after. In June, Mr. Carroll swapped out the fryers for a massive grill, and turned the place into a neighborhood restaurant devoted to the pleasures of open fire and good ingredients simply cooked. St. Anselm was reborn.

Smart thinking. The new iteration is charming, with a

Guy Calaf for The New York Times

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by

Sam Sifton

pulsing bass line of ambition beneath its simple steakhouse melody. Yvon de Tassigny, the restaurant’s chef, has matched great live-fire technique to excellent groceries, and reveals himself to be a master of off-cut lamb and beef. And his iceberg salad, served below warm bacon vinaigrette that melts a scattering of blue cheese across the top and softens the exterior of the crisp lettuce, is among the great things to eat on the north side of Williamsburg.

Like the real-life St. Anselm, the restaurant makes an ontological argument. If we can conceive of an affordable steakhouse on the same block as the Metro Line cab stand and the Brooklyn home of the Knitting Factory, then surely such a thing must exist. And here it is now: St. Anselm is Keens for the millennial set, a Bar Americain for the riders of fixed-gear bikes.

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It is particularly Keens-like in its preparation of lamb (and in its collection of rusty old saws on the walls, which stand in place of that restaurant’s clay pipes). Mr. de Tassigny offers two preparations. The first is a shoulder steak, simply served with compound butter and a drift of lime zest and mint chiffonade. Lamb shoulder is a fatty cut, and extremely difficult to grill without burning the exterior while undercooking the center. But judicious use of a water spritzer and some cool spots on the grill allow Mr. de Tassigny to beat the odds, and the result is a gamy success.

A set of three eggplants (Italian, Thai and Japanese) wears its smokiness with pride, and pairs amazingly with a small puck of fried goat cheese and a tangle of deeply sweet, dark caramelized onions.

Mr. de Tassigny has a particular affinity, as well, for fish. Flame-licked sardines (eat ’em whole!) arrive as an appetizer portion aside a stack of lotus-root pickles. A whole mackerel is dressed in lime, its soft grilled white meat

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ven better, though, is his saddle chop, which at Keens is called a mutton chop. Here it resembles the dough airplane in “The Night Kitchen” by Maurice Sendak. It is large, skirted with crisp fat, with a deep, mellow lamb flavor that is enhanced greatly by a marvelous puddle of mint-flecked yogurt. Eaten with the iceberg salad and a bowl of sweet, soft grilled fingerling potatoes, it makes for a robust and exciting dinner for two, inexpensive enough to be worth braving the crowds at the Bedford Avenue stop on the L train, five blocks away.

The butcher’s steak in particular is a joy, tender and full of strong, beefy flavor that is winning even before the garlic butter on it melts away.

coming off the backbone in meaty flakes as if to make an argument in favor of this slim, cylindrical beauty as Branzino 2.0. Scallops, which often fail on the grill, get Mr. de Tassigny’s close attention, and rise to his occasion. They are sweet and smoky at once, the Swisher Sweets of bivalves, excellent with a side order of grilled long beans.

Some caveats to all this praise. The grilled clams on the appetizer menu are invariably Manila: small, farmed and flavorless despite their garlicky bath. With extensive Atlantic clam flats so close to New York City, it is a shame Mr. Carroll and Mr. de Tassigny do not take advantage of them. Shrimp salad spooned into a lightly grilled avocado half is not very pretty, and hardly makes up for it in matters of flavor.

Avocado is known as the mayonnaise of the vegetable world. Grilled, it becomes its mud. And there is no pastry chef, so desserts get the short shrift they so often do in steakhouses: a passable take on grilled s’mores with strawberries; a jiggly bread pudding; a jar of peanut-hazlenut butter served with chunks of local dark chocolates. It is do-it-yourself Reese’s.

St. Anselm is, finally and most of all, a Williamsburg restaurant, with all that this entails, down to the smart-aleck mix of rock music on the stereo. Some attitude from the floor staff may be expected if you are not within the demographic that lives within bicycling distance, or if you have no facial hair, visible tattoos or interesting eyewear.

“A steakhouse must have steak. St. Anselm has a massive rib-eye for two, with nearly a foot of frenched bone sticking out of it to give it its menu name: Axe Handle Rib Eye.” And there is a pork chop, brined in bourbon and grilled into sweet submission. What this wide, golden hunk of protein lacks in presentation (it is a pork chop, sitting on a plate, no more) it more than makes up for in flavor: buttery and nut-sweet, with a whiskey kick that is as purely American as corn waving in a Tennessee field.

The fires at St. Anselm touch more than meat, however.

Late-season tomatoes come off the grill to pair with soft burrata cheese and a drizzle of balsamic vinegar in a simple combination that belies the brains behind it: the slight char on the fruit elevates the dish beyond its already high station.

Shishito peppers secure a similar fate, their generally mild spiciness (though there is always one spark plug in every bowl) enhanced by the grill’s heat and made beautiful through the application of salt and lime.

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NIGHT OUT / Le Bernardin

Top Seafood

Splurge

New York’s luxury seafood market is more crowded than ever, but Eric Ripert and Maguy Le Coze’s Theater District icon remains essential. by

Ryan Sutton

Maine lobster tail with leek cannelloni and red wine rosemary sauce

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almon, in its common New York form, is decidedly unluxurious. Diners more frequently encounter it as a salad protein than as an haute menu item.

New York magazine’s Adam Platt once quoted a companion calling it the “Cheerios of restaurant food,” before adding that it was “predictable” and “useless” to critics. In fact, the last time Pete Wells positively used the word salmon in one of his rare four-star reviews was in 2012, when he wrote up Le Bernardin, Eric Ripert and Maguy Le Coze’s French seafood palace in the Theater District. It was a brief mention. I will be less brief.

To understand why Le Bernardin remains one of the 34

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city’s most thrilling and technically astute restaurants, a gem of a splurge that won’t drain the bank account as much as other fine dining institutions, do one thing: Get the salmon.

Order it raw with Moroccan seasonings. Neat rectangles of fish sit on the plate like pats of creamsicle-colored butter. They melt on the tongue, releasing warming, musky notes of argan oil and cumin.

Order it seared, with a Northern Indian spice blend.

Slices of red-hued sea trout — part of the salmon family — nearly fall apart when prodded. They ooze fat, enrobing the mouth in a velvety slick. A dice of roasted tomatoes adds acidic relief, while coriander and garlic impart a

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sharp piquancy.

Order it in pot-au-feu. Chefs place the fish in a shallow pool of water and warm it for just a few minutes, barely firming up the meat. Tableside, a waiter surrounds it with a moat of veal and beef broth, then spoons black truffle butter over it. A whisper of well-done flesh acts as a counterpoint to the wobbly pink filet; its ample oils channel a mouthful of salmon roe. A dose of broth then brings a rush of meaty, earthy balance. Here, the majestic fish is as luxurious as wagyu.

in between marrow and gelatin. Hiramasa, or amberjack, bleeds luscious oils. And poached skate boasts the soft, ropy mouthfeel of Cuban ropa vieja. Ripert and Eric Gestel, a longtime lieutenant who recently ascended to the position of executive chef, have not served bluefin for over a decade.

Another plus is that the menus — $165 for four courses, $198 for a tasting, $228 for a longer meal — are more accessible than those of the city’s most vaunted sushi spots. The beverage program has a generous feel to it as well. Wine director Aldo Sohm offers scores of glasses under $20, including a flinty skin contact grüner veltliner (sound the air raid alarms, there’s finally a natural wine at Le Bern), and a seven-pour pairing at just $95.

The room, updated in 2012, still shimmers. A tempestuous painting of the ocean, deep green and bigger than my studio apartment, still lines the back wall. Leather banquettes coddle patrons seemingly dressed for a black tie charity ball. Patrons who only follow the (absurd) rule of “jackets required” will nonetheless find themselves wondering whether they should’ve donned a tux. A team of largely female sommeliers, an outlier in this male-dominant field, glide across the room with airy zalto stems and silver tastevins — shallow cups used to check the color and clarity of wine.

Waiters rush to tables carrying pots of sauce. Lots of sauce; up to 30 different ones on any given day. They aren’t so much a performative flourish as they are the cornerstone of any dish, conveying endless layers of aroma, acid, meatiness, and creaminess. The result is a visual style that can veer closer to “rustic shallow soup” than “built for Instagram,” but none of that matters once you start eating. And slurping.

“It’s tempting to write ‘Le Bernardin has still got it,’ but that’s what Michelin declares, without much context, every autumn when it awards yet another set of three stars to the restaurant.”

The more complex reality is that New York seafood has evolved in the 33 years since Maguy and her late brother, Gilbert, relocated their Parisian restaurant to New York.

Namely, there’s a heck of a lot more competition now. Milos came along in 1997 with its jet set lavraki and yacht-friendly prices. Marea opened during the crash in 2009; it now sells caviar in the shadow of $100 million apartments. And in more recent years, the exorbitant sushi economy began its domination. Scores of tiny bars, many of them in hip downtown locales, cater to a moneyed clientele seeking (endangered) bluefin in all its fatty forms.

So really, how much culinary relevance can a Times Square-adjacent French spot flaunt as the new decade nears? A lot, as it turns out.

Le Bernardin could keep up with any posh omakase joint on its salmon alone. The menu focuses on sustainably minded catches with a breathtaking band of textures and flavors. Langoustines sport a mouthfeel that’s somewhere

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Kicker Head: New York’s Top Seafood Splurge

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03 Liquors 40 / Party Goes On 42 / Matcha Ginger Affogato

& Sweets 39

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Party Goes On

LIQUORS & SWEETS / Drinks

by

Fresh citrus juice, Lillet Rosé, and prosecco make a pretty punch for winter months with notes of floral, sweet, and bitter to please all palates.

Prep: 10 minutes Servings: 4 servings

Total: 10 minutes

Ingredients

. 1 cup strained citrus juice (I used 1 each: Meyer lemon, tangerine, blood orange, pink grapefruit, plus a squeeze of regular lemon juice to sharpen the flavors) . 1 cup Lillet Blanc or Lillet Rosé . 1-2 cups prosecco or other dry sparkling wine . ice . citrus rounds and wedges, for garnish

Instructions

Combine the citrus juice, Lillet and 1 cup of the prosecco in a large pitcher half-filled with ice cubes and some citrus rounds and wedges. Give a good stir and taste for balance, adding more lemon or grapefruit if the drink is too sweet, more Lillet or blood orange if you want more sweetness. Strain or scoop into cups and serve with ice or without. For extra sparkle, top off glasses with an extra pour of prosecco.

Notes

Double or triple the recipe if serving a crowd, or make smaller portions to order by shaking 2 ounces each citrus juice and Lillet with ice, straining it into glasses, and topping with chilled prosecco and a citrus round.

For a lighter drink, or if you don’t wish to crack a bottle of bubbly, serve the citrusy Lillet over ice with a pour of sparkling water.

Nutritional values are based on one of four drinks.

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T h e B o j o n G o u r me t

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LIQUORS & SWEETS / Warm Beverages

Matcha

Ginger Affogato

Warm, emerald green matcha kissed with ginger meets cool ice cream for a verdant take on the traditional affogato.

Affogato means drowned in Italian, and usually refers to a shot of espresso poured over ice cream. I would like to drown in a pool of this creamy green goodness.

The warm, grassy, slightly bitter matcha melts the sweet ice cream on contact, creating what tastes like melted matcha ice cream, all enhanced with a touch of spicy ginger.

by

Prep: 5 minutes Servings: 1 serving

T h e B o j o n G o u r me t

Total: 5 minutes

Ingredients . . . .

2 teaspoons (about 3-4 g) matcha green tea powder ¾ teaspoon powdered ginger 6 tablespoons (90 ml) hot water (at 175ºF) ½ cup (120 ml) vanilla ice cream (regular or dairy-free)

Instructions

Combine ginger and matcha in a small-ish bowl. Add a few drops of hot water and whisk to form a paste.

Gradually add the rest of the hot water, whisking until smooth. Pour matcha over ice cream and serve.

Notes

The trick to good matcha is to keep if from clumping, so be sure to add just a touch of water at first, and blend to form a paste. If you have a bamboo matcha whisk, it makes silky-smooth, frothy matcha; otherwise, use a small metal whisk.

Be sure to source high-quality matcha that’s bright green and fresh. Ippodo and Encha are two excellent brands.

Nutritional values are based on one serving.

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04

Features

44 / HEYTEA Takes Over 52 / Quarantine Meals

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FEATURES / HEYTEA Takes Over

HEYTEA Takes Over by thibaud chow

HEYTEA is the first maker of cheese tea. Different from other traditional cream-covered tea with coarse making and cheap tea, HEYTEA provides high-quality tea from all over the world, trying to renew the traditional tea culture.

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Starbucks-inspired

CHEESE TE S

ince February 2017, HEYTEA’s buzz in China has changed the brand into a phenomenal food trend. According to Yuwan Hu, senior project manager at Daxue Consulting, HEYTEA’s founder, Yunchen Nie, aspires to forge a Starbucks-style brand in the tea market. Nie was just a 19-year-old with a high school degree when he founded his first business in 2010. His mobile phone business, however, eventually closed because it never turned profitable. Following this business experiment, he went on to launch HEYTEA -formerly named ROYAL TEA in 2011 in his hometown, the city of Jiangmen in Guangdong province. On February 26 last year, ROYALTEA adopted the new name HEYTEA because the characters in its previous name were too easily counterfeited. Additionally, the name “HEYTEA” may be translated as “happy tea,” denoting a sense of positivity.

Even so, there were still many counterfeit brands that sought to imitate the brand. Thus, HEYTEA’s official website has declared that all former ROYALTEA stores have been converted to HEYTEA stores, and that any remaining stores named ROYALTEA are unrelated to HEYTEA.

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EA

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Balanced Formula

TEA AND CHEESE Combining salt cheese with fresh tea in an ingenious way, HEYTEA original cheese tea is very popular among the customers. The cheese is imported from New Zealand, the creamy taste matching up with the fragrance of selected tea, which creates a wondeful feeling.

20% Cheese Foam

Choose Your Tea Base

80% Tea Base

Oolong Tea

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Green Tea

Black Tea

HEYTEA reworked its menu in efforts to increase the perceived value of its drinks. For example, a product previously named “Cheese and milk green tea” is now called “Green beauty”.

Similarly, each of the brand’s products was given a “fancier” new name in place of their more descriptive former names.

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Refreshing Taste

Introducing the fresh fruit tea which brings a refreshing taste of the mix between tea and fruits. Selected highquality tea is milden with natural sugar.

The delicious result is a finish that’s both refreshing and rich.

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SEASON LIMITED TEA Unique Selection

Every season has its unique characteristic and production. In order to present the freshest flavor, we introduce the Season Limited Tea. Fresh fruits in season are accented with selected tea, the fragrant result is full of joy.

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FEATURES / Quarantine Meals

QUARANTINE MEALS

By Margaux Laskey

Simple dishes you can make with what you have on hand

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Breakfast Recipes

Lunch Recipes

There’s something about starting the day with a full belly that makes everything seem like it’s going to be OK. Pancakes, waffles, a Dutch baby, biscuits and muffins are cozy options, and leftovers can be frozen for later. Granola, too. (Top your evening ice cream sundae with it later.) And if you really have some time on your hands, make breakfast an event and whip up a dish typically meant for a weekend, like eggs Benedict, English muffin casserole or biscuits with sausage gravy.

If you’re working from home, take this opportunity to make something delicious. (And maybe don’t eat it stooped over your laptop or scrolling through Twitter?)

Melissa Clark’s sardine toasts with tomato and sweet onion or grilled cheese with apples and apple butter come together in a flash. If soup is what you’re craving, Alexa Weibel’s easiest chicken noodle soup or Colu Henry’s pasta e ceci will soothe your soul. Or transform that pasta in your pantry into spaghetti with fried eggs or midnight pasta, a bright and briny dish made with capers, anchovies and garlic.

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Ali Slagle’s cheesy white bean tomato bake is made with pantry staples: canned beans and tomato paste. John Kernick for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.

Dinner Recipes

Baking Recipes

For dinner, check out our collection of pantry staple recipes for dishes that require just a quick trip to your cabinet. If you have a can of tuna, try Sam Sifton’s Japanese-style tuna noodle salad or Melissa Clark’s tuna and white bean gratin. Ali Slagle is a genius when it comes to transforming a can of beans: Her one-pot rice and beans is unbelievably smart, as are her two cheesy bean bakes, white bean or black bean. If you’ve stockpiled dried beans, cook up a big pot of Melissa Clark’s herbed white bean and sausage soup or Julia Moskin’s best black bean soup. And if pasta is what you’re craving, Alexa Weibel’s creamy chickpea pasta with spinach and rosemary (use frozen spinach and dried rosemary if you don’t have fresh), and Sue Li’s creamy turmeric pasta come together in a snap. Finally, if you’ve uncovered a pound of ground beef in the back of your freezer, we suggest sloppy Joes.

If there’s ever a time for a baked good, it is now. Most of these easy baking recipes can be whipped up using what you have in your pantry, like these Rice Krispies treats with dark chocolate and pretzels. Melissa Clark’s buttery shortbread recipe can be customized in all kinds of ways, and this astoundingly moist one-pan chocolate cake, which just so happens to be vegan, can be mixed and baked in a standard 8-by-8-inch pan. If you’re really looking for a distraction, we have recipes for procrastibaking. (Or should we call it anxiety baking?) One not-exactly-easy idea: Take this time to tackle sourdough bread. Or if it’s cheering up you need, spend the day making this rainbow cake, a nod to the signs hanging from balconies all over Italy that are painted with a rainbow and the hopeful slogan, “Andrà tutto bene.”

Everything will be all right.

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EGGS BENEDICT

By Alison Roman Yield: 4 servings Time: 35 minutes Decadence is what makes eggs Benedict a star of the brunch table. To get there, order and timing are key. First, you’ll want to make your hollandaise. While intimidating in theory, the process is a lot like making mayonnaise. If the emulsion is stable, it won’t break, even when held at room temperature.

Next, poach your eggs, and toast the English muffins while you crisp up the Canadian bacon. From there, it’s as simple as stacking your ingredients and sprinkling them with herbs, salt and pepper. Once you’ve mastered this basic version, you can explore its variations: Add sliced avocado, or even swap in some smoked salmon (eggs Hemingway) or wilted greens for the Canadian bacon (eggs Florentine).

INGREDIENTS For The Hollandaise: ¾ cup (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter 3 large egg yolks 1 ½ teaspoons fresh lemon juice, plus more to taste ¼ teaspoon cayenne or hot paprika, plus more to taste Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper For The Poached Eggs: 1 tablespoon white distilled vinegar Kosher salt 8 large eggs For The Benedict And Assembly: 4 English muffins, split 8 slices Canadian bacon or thick-cut ham (or 8 slices regular, thick-cut bacon) 2 tablespoons unsalted butter ¼ cup chopped chives 2 tablespoons chopped dill, tarragon or parsley Flaky sea salt Coarsely ground black pepper

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Romulo Yanes for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Vivian Lui.

PREPARATION Step 1 Make the hollandaise: Melt butter in a small pot over medium heat until it’s foamy but not yet beginning to brown, 3 to 4 minutes.

Step 2 Place egg yolks and 2 teaspoons water in a blender. Start blending, and, working very slowly, add the hot, melted butter until it’s all incorporated. (If it starts to get too thick to blend, add 1/2 teaspoon of water.) Add lemon juice and cayenne, though feel free to adjust the amounts to taste, and season with salt and pepper. Transfer the hollandaise to a small bowl, and place plastic wrap directly on the surface so it doesn’t form a skin. Set aside. (It will keep at room temperature while you work.)

Step 3 Poach the eggs: Fill a medium pot with 3 inches of water.

Add vinegar, season with salt and bring to a simmer.

(Look for just a few bubbles; it should never boil.) Using the handle of a spoon or spatula, stir the water with a clockwise motion. Gently crack an egg into the center of the pot, letting the water swirl around it and allowing the white to envelop the yolk. Repeat with remaining eggs — you could probably do up to four at a time. Check the eggs after 4 minutes: Use a slotted spoon to lift an egg out of the water, and feel the white for firmness. If it’s not quite done, slide it back in for another minute or so. Let cook until the whites are just set, but the yolks are still completely runny, 4 to 5 minutes. Once eggs are perfectly poached, remove from the water, and let drain on a plate lined with paper towels or a clean kitchen towel. Set eggs aside.

Step 4 Using a toaster, toaster oven or regular oven, toast the English muffins until crisp and golden brown. Don’t be afraid to toast them thoroughly: They’ll be covered in hollandaise and poached eggs, and will need to be sturdy.

Step 5 Cook Canadian bacon or ham (or bacon) in a medium skillet over medium–high heat until golden brown and just crisp at the edges, about 6 minutes.

Step 6 Assemble the Benedict: Place eight halves of English uffin on a plate and butter them generously. Top each with a slice of Canadian bacon, ham or bacon, then a poached egg. Spoon hollandaise sauce over and sprinkle with chives, dill, flaky sea salt and black pepper.

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TAGLIATELLE WITH PROSCIUTTO AND BUTTER

By Alexa Weibel

PREPARATION

Yield: 2 servings Time: 15 minutes Like cacio e pepe, this prosciutto-studded pasta — coated in emulsified butter, starchy pasta cooking water and Parmesan — requires repetition to master, but it’s not at all difficult. Adapted from Evan Funke’s pasta cookbook, “American Sfoglino,” this dish comes together with just a few ingredients, but you’ll need to work fast: Add the pasta, pasta water and cheese to the butter and prosciutto quickly, then stir vigorously while gently jostling the pan back and forth with the other hand. Serve immediately, as the pasta can lose its luster within minutes as it soaks up the sauce.

INGREDIENTS 6 tablespoons unsalted butter 2 ounces prosciutto, torn into bite-size pieces Kosher salt and black pepper ¾ pound handmade fresh tagliatelle or store-bought tagliatelle ½ cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus additional for garnish if desired

Step 1 Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat.

Step 2 In a large skillet, melt the butter over medium-high heat until frothy and golden, about 1 minute. Add half the prosciutto in one flat layer. Cook until crisp, 1 to 2 minutes, then transfer cooked prosciutto to a paper towel-lined plate. Repeat with remaining prosciutto, leaving it in the skillet, and remove skillet from heat.

Step 3 Season the boiling water lightly with salt. When the salt dissolves, add the tagliatelle and cook until toothsome and slightly undercooked, 2 to 4 minutes or according to package instructions.

Step 4 Just before your pasta is ready, return the skillet to the heat and warm over medium. Do not drain the pasta, but use a slotted pasta fork or tongs and transfer the cooked pasta directly to the skillet. Working quickly, add 1/2 cup Parmigiano-Reggiano and about 1/4 cup of the pasta cooking water and swirl vigorously to emulsify, jostling the pan at the same time, and cook just until sauce is silky, about 1 minute.

Step 5 Divide the pasta among shallow bowls, sprinkle with pepper and remaining prosciutto and serve immediately, along with additional Parmigiano-Reggiano if desired.

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Constantine Poulos for The

e New York Times

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Andrew Scrivani for The New York Times

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CHICKPEA CURRY

By Nigella Lawson

Yield: 6 to 8 servings Time: 50 minutes This is a warming rather than hot curry. You can taste the spices and enjoy their aromatic fullness. The ginger, chile and pepper flakes provide heat, while the coriander and cumin add a pleasurable earthiness. Meanwhile, the sweetness of the coconut milk, heightened by the soothing starchiness of the sweet potatoes, has as a counterpoint the fierce tang of tamarind. As a side dish, this recipe would be fine without the chickpeas, but as a meal, along with rice and maybe some steamed broccolini, they add heft and, if you’re interested, protein.

INGREDIENTS 2 medium red onions, peeled 1 clove garlic, peeled 1 bird’s eye pepper, Thai chili or other very hot small pepper with its seeds 1 2 1/2- to-3-inch piece of ginger, peeled and cut into chunks 3 tablespoons canola oil ½ teaspoon hot red pepper flakes ½ teaspoon ground ginger 1 teaspoon ground coriander 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1 ½ teaspoons ground turmeric 3 cardamom pods, lightly crushed Salt 2 pounds (about 3 medium) orange-fleshed sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2- to-1-inch cubes 1 ¾ cups coconut milk 1 tablespoon tamarind paste 2 ¼ cups hot chicken or vegetable broth 4 to 5 cups (about 4 15 1/2-ounce cans, drained) canned or cooked chickpeas (garbanzo beans) 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro leaves Cooked white rice for serving (optional) Steamed broccolini for serving (optional)

PREPARATION Step 1 In a food processor, combine onions, garlic, hot pepper and ginger. Pulse until finely chopped. Place oil in a large saute pan over medium-low heat. Add chopped onion mixture and sauté until softened, about 5 minutes.

Step 2 Add hot pepper flakes, ground ginger, ground coriander, cumin, turmeric, cardamom pods and 1/2 teaspoon salt.

Stir to mix. Add sweet potatoes and stir until well covered in spices. Stir in the coconut milk.

Step 3 Dissolve tamarind paste in hot broth and add to pan.

Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer, partially covered, until sweet potatoes are just tender, about 25 minutes. (Taste potatoes to be sure they are cooked all the way through, and allow additional cooking time if necessary.)

Step 4 Add chickpeas and simmer until heated through, about 5 minutes. Adjust salt to taste. Transfer to a warmed bowl and sprinkle with chopped cilantro. Serve, if desired, with white rice and broccolini.

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CHOCOLATE CAKE MADE-IN-THE-PAN

By Margaux Laskey

Yield: 9 to 12 servings Time: 45 minutes This surprisingly tender vegan chocolate cake is made entirely in an 8-by-8-inch baking pan: Just toss in the ingredients, stir until you don’t see any flour streaks, then bake. For flourish, add a small handful of chocolate chips before baking or sprinkle the finished cake with a little confectioners’ sugar. Adapted from Mollie Katzen’s “Honest Pretzels: And 64 Other Amazing Recipes for Kids Who Love to Cook,” this recipe was developed for kids, but adults love it, too. It’s an ideal snacking cake, or you could gussy it up with a simple ganache frosting.

INGREDIENTS 1 ¼ cups/160 grams all-purpose flour 1 cup/200 grams granulated sugar 1/3 cup/30 grams unsweetened cocoa powder ¾ teaspoon baking soda ½ teaspoon kosher salt 1/3 cup/80 milliliters canola oil 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1 teaspoon apple cider vinegar or white vinegar 2 tablespoons semisweet or vegan chocolate chips (optional) Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting on top (optional)

Constantine Poulos for The New York Times

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E PREPARATION Step 1 Heat oven to 325 degrees. Add the flour, sugar, cocoa powder, baking soda and salt to an 8-by-8-inch square glass or metal baking dish. Whisk the mixture together until uniform in color. Use your fingers to break apart any lumps.

Step 2 Add 1 cup water along with the oil, vanilla extract and vinegar. Stir slowly with a fork or a whisk in small circles to blend. Mash, scrape and stir with a fork and spoon until the mixture becomes a smooth and uniform batter.

Step 3 Scrape the sides of the baking dish with a rubber spatula and spread the batter in an even layer. Sprinkle with chocolate chips, if using.

Step 4 Use a damp paper towel to wipe the edges of the baking dish clean. Carefully transfer the dish to the oven and bake until a toothpick inserted into the center of the batter comes out mostly clean, 28 to 33 minutes. (Instead of looking like you dipped the toothpick in chocolate frosting, it should look like it has some chocolate cake crumbs clinging to it.)

Step 5 Remove from the oven, let cool, then cut the cake into squares. If you’re feeling fancy, this tastes good (and looks pretty) with some confectioners’ sugar dusted on top.

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May 2050

Appétit

Vol um e 216

Enjoy delicacy at your call.

HEYTEA TAKES OVER

QUARANTINE MEALS

TOP SEAFOOD SPLURGE

May 2050

Appétit

Enjoy delicacy at your call.

HEYTEA TAKES OVER QUARANTINE MEALS TOP SEAFOOD SPLURGE

Vol um e 216