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18th CENTURY PUNKS FW 2016

FLATTENED FASHION FW 2012

FUTURE OF THE SILHOUETTE FW 2017

Reimagining “18th Century punks” in today’s context, Kawakubo blurred the lines between the past and the future with her anti-establishment sensibility. The garments truly stood for the avant-gardist’s vision of powerful women. Sculpturally layered structures featured in rosy jacquards, bondage straps, 3-D armour like projections. Twhese were visions of tough yet feminine women, as pretty as Rei could possibly do. The collection provoked a decadent flair (Versaillesque) with a hint of bizarre. It seemed satirical and scandalous. One could imagine 21st century Le Merveilleuses flaunting them to cause outrage like they did in France several centuries ago.

Pushing the rigid prospects of visual dimension, the FallWinter 2012 collection literally explored two-dimensional forms through simplistic flat three-dimensional constructions in felt. The word flat resonated in every sense right from bright bold colours (think bright red, cobalt blue, flesh pink reminiscent of plasticine), flat silhouettes and patterns (camouflage, chintz, polka, leopard). The models appeared as emotionless cutout dolls in the oversized silhouettes, perhaps suggestive of Kawakubo’s social commentary on how the digital culture has disconnected or ‘flattened’ fashion in terms of depth and impersonality.

Challenging the boundaries of aesthetics and wearability, the collection titled, “The Future of Silhouette” is among the most recent collections to showcase at the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute. The range of avant-garde garments were a sculptural interpretation of the female form. Rei used unconventional materials like paper, cotton wads and Mylar to create bulbous curves at the front and back sans armholes. Women from the future marched on the pastel pink runway against a bubblegum pink wall.

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Profile for Shefali Judeline Jauhar

Zhivalian  

A league of Indian millennial designers are on the rise – call them the Counterculturists if you may. Daring to define the contemporary scen...

Zhivalian  

A league of Indian millennial designers are on the rise – call them the Counterculturists if you may. Daring to define the contemporary scen...

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