Orphan Andy’s Lights Up for the Holidays
Orphan Andy’s “Close your eyes and tap your heels together three times and think to yourself, ‘There’s no place like home. There’s no place like home. There’s no place like ... “ Orphan Andy’s in the Castro! That is where Dorothy and her enchanted ruby slippers might very well have landed once The Wizard of Oz credits finished. After all, the San Francisco landmark destination is open 24/7, offers soul-satiating fare, smart and sassy service, courage to skittish newcomers and more sparkle than Glinda the Good Witch’s hand-laid Adrian crystal gown. The wizards behind Orphan Andy’s homespun magic are Dennis Ziebell and Bill Pung, who are married partners in addition to being co-owners of the restaurant at 3991 17th Street. The 50s-style diner, with its inviting counter, roomy red leatherette booths and overthe-top creative queer décor, is truly a home away from home—or a destination that is even better than home—for numerous regulars. In the morning, savory 3-egg omelets, French toast (including stuffed with spiced apples and cream cheese), hotcakes (with added banana and chocolate chip versions), steak & eggs and several other delicious breakfast items a re t he
stars of the show. There is also bottomless coffee poured by attentive, friendly staff, whom you will soon know on a first name basis after a few visits. Lunch sees plenty of patty melts, giant salads, homemade soups, Orphan Andy’s chili (don’t forget the cheese and chopped onion), and mouth-watering sandwiches like BBQ pork, Philly cheesesteaks and French dip. Dinner might be fish & chips, a NY steak, chicken-fried steak with country gravy, or one of the specials on offer. Those who save room for dessert may be rewarded with Orphan Andy’s double fudge brownies, Bailey’s Irish cream cheesecake, frosty malts, Hawaiian wedding cake, ice cream sundaes, or ... OK, we have to take a break and make an Orphan Andy’s run now, as we are getting hungry here! As day turns into night, Orphan Andy’s emits a warm and welcoming glow for passersby, who might hear songs like “We Are Family,” “Rock This Town” and “Respect” coming from a retro jukeboxe when the door swings open. It is little wonder that first dates happen here, along with marriage proposals, anniversaries and birthday celebrations—or even just everyday celebrations, where locals can feel grateful for having such a reliably cozy spot. Orphan Andy’s reflects the longstanding bond shared by Ziebell and Pung, who live upstairs. Each handsome and easygoing fellow beams when speaking of the other. The over four decades old restaurant is like an extension of their loving home, with the entire community and visitors welcome. For locals, to paraphrase Dorothy, there is no reason to go looking for your heart’s desire outside of the Castro. Home is right here, at Orphan Andy’s. We recently caught up with Ziebell, who shared more about this neighborhood favorite.
1970s menu (right)
San Francisco Bay Times: Those of us who were around the Castro in the 1970s fondly recall Andy’s Donuts, a 24-hour diner formerly at 460 Castro Street (now Osaka Sushi)
Orphan Andy’s Behind the Scenes Managing any restaurant poses challenges, but those are magnified all the more when service is 24/7 nearly every day of the year. Dennis Ziebell, Bill Pung and their team at Orphan Andy’s, over four decades of successful operation, are masters of the art. A key is strategic down time for serious cleaning and other maintenance. Note that Orphan Andy’s closes every Monday from 4 am–6 am, on a Tuesday from about 4 am–5 pm every 3 months (for a complete steam cleaning, painting touch-ups and more), at 12:30 pm on Thanksgiving and at 1 pm on Christmas Eve. The restaurant is closed on Christmas Day. Most of the rare closures allow for repairs and other maintenance that are trickier to complete when diners are present. On any given day, however, the staff are constantly working to keep Orphan Andy’s in tip top shape. Thanks to these efforts, the restaurant—like the drawing of “Andy” on the laminated menu cover—is able to retain its good looks and youthful retro charm.
Special Thanks to JP Lor Photography http://www.jplor.com
14
SA N FRANCISCO BAY T I ME S
DE C E MB E R 6 , 2 0 1 8
frequented by Harvey Milk and many other greats. Is it true that you became the owner of Andy’s Donuts when you were just 21? How did that come about? Dennis Ziebell: I was 22 when I bought Andy’s Donuts in October of 1972. I had started as clean-up boy and then donut maker/baker in March of that year. I had worked in bakeries during my high school years in Nebraska. I originally hitchhiked to San Francisco in the fall of 1971 and lived on the streets and in the then abandoned old Ace High Hotel on 6th Street between Mission and Howard for several months before finding a place to stay. San Francisco Bay Times: Did Andy’s Donuts inspire Orphan Andy’s, given the similar name and 24-hour concept? And who was “Andy”?
moved in Bill beca
San Fra some of erating share so your tim
Dennis Ziebell: Andy McDougal was the original owner of Andy Donuts for many years. When I sold Andy’s Donuts in the spring of 1975, I then bought the Boot Camp Bar in the fall of 1975.
Dennis business Castro an and work 46 years. customer tough tim
In 1977, I also bought my favorite café—the “Five Corners Café”—which I renamed Orphan Andy’s because I was orphaned at birth, and also because I wanted to continue the same menu and 24/7 classic diner format that had been at Andy’s Donuts.
Cons: no ing the c professio are what grateful f has allow
San Francisco Bay Times: We’ve read that you met Bill when he stopped in for a beer at Boot Camp Bar. What do you remember about that fateful night, and what year was that? Dennis Ziebell: That was in the spring of 1976. I was working that day and Bill was sitting at the bar and we were introduced by the bartender. It was love at first sight and we
San Fra vibe at t out the
Dennis are peop etc. The and clubs San Fran