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C R E A T I V E

C O L L E C T I V E

VOL UME I

Still so young they hadn’t learned to count the odds and to sense they might owe the universe a tragedy..

DREDGE TO WEDGE

the impact of the St. Augustine Dredging project on the environment and surfing.

PUERTO RICO

INFINITE BLISS:

COUNT THE ODDS

FLOW

Dive into the beauties of Puerto Rico. The Isle of Enchantment

G ET D IRT Y & MAKE SHI T H A P P EN A balance between art & mind w/ Heather Lauren Quinn

I S S U E I

BULLSH!T CINEMA PHOTO DESIGN SURF ART


EDITOR LETTER READ AND TAKE NOTES

Editor in Chief Matthew Snell Creative Director Jim McNeil Photo Editor Aaron Harriss Associate Art Director Chase Bennett Online Editor Eduardo Rodriguez Intern Mimi Lamontagne

See Sick is a visual publication of sorts, operating as a platform for emerging artists, surfers, photographers, illustrators, and designers.

A

s aspiring artists See Sick believes art is a means of true expression of the inner self: For us, surfing is where it all began. The magazine is anchored in the surf culture, but is not, by any means, just a surf magazine. Although much of the material is surf related, it is the essence of the ability to express a personal passion and creative thinking for art, while presenting it in its natural form for others to view. See Sick magazine strives to be what we call ‘A Creative Collective:’ A group of aspiring individuals who find peace of mind creating, innovating, and inspiring while expressing the importance of finding truth in everything they do. “A magazine for creative minds a like.” Art, for centuries, has created a place for people to escape and find serenity. Art surrounds us everyday: we are consumed by it, and all it takes is a little concentration to slow down your body and mind to stop, listen, and take in what surrounds you. Art and Design, to me, carries the burden to inform and educated people. In an essay I encountered in an art history class the author, Robert Irwin, wrote, “Art has created ‘phenomenal’ perception, one that seeks to discover and value the potential for experiencing beauty in everything.” I see art as way to channel all the beauty the world gives us into a small area for others to try and experience, on a smaller scale, what

the artist experienced. I plan to take my optimistic view of the world and its beauty and find a job in the surf industry, whether it is videography, web design, magazine design, or photography. I want to travel the world and experience it all and capture the immensity of the world to portray its importance and reveal its beauty: the beauty that many people don’t have the opportunity to experience. We’d all like to get better at what we do, and that the most efficient way to do that is to crawl out of our many separate bunkers, stop giving each other suspicious looks, and share our best ideas, tools, and practices. So that’s what we’ve come here to do.


F E AT U R E S

III PAGE 3

ART

DESIGN

PHOTO

SURF

BULLSH!T

CINE MA

W/ SEAN CUSICK

W/ MATT SNELL

W/ AUSTIN MARVIN

W/ SPECIAL K

W/ AARON HARRISS

W/ CHASE BENNETT

STORIES PAGE 4

PAGE 18

IV XVIII

R A M BL I NG S

YOUR DAILY DOSE OF EVERYTHING

PAGE 5

I N F I N I T E BLI SS

DIVE INTO THE BEAUTIES OF PUERTO RICO

V XXXVI

IT GOES ON

LIFE IN A NUT SHELL

PAGE 6

PAGE 36

GET DIRTY & MAKE SHIT HAPPEN A FULL INTERVIEW AND ‘DAY IN THE LIFE’ OF LOCAL ST. AUGUSTINE SURFER/ SHAPER AUSTIN MARVIN (MLMC)

VI LXII PAGE 62

FLOW

A BALANCE BETWEEN ART & MIND W/ HEATHER LAUREN QUINN

PAGE 10

X

DREDGE TO WEDGE

THE IMPACTS OF THE ST. AUGUSTINE DREDGING PROJECT ON THE ENVIRONMENT AND SURFING

C OU N T T HE ODD S

SOMETIMES WE ARE BLIND AND FORGET THAT WE OWE THE WORLD A TRAGEDY. A NEW FEATURE FILM BY TAYLOR STEELE


PHOTO

W/ AARON HARRISS

ART

W/ SEAN CUSICK

Vere fac omaceris. Lii pubit, nos conum Romnem ius, ut publissente, se dius. Opiestr aequit fure culla se occhus senin sedeffret pat. Soltilic moris clessimmo ist dit. mus et L. Gractala L. Imus, ut et acrum aus re quam intemunte conit. Am di, move, ignarit; C. Um fui conclum Patis; et alinat re nos, publina imis bondam id autero et L. Quam te publi, consult imuliam comnimum di, quamdiemne cut am oreheba tiamquam tarem inare ad di pecon ta ductam. Veris ina, quam serte, con hiliureme mo ublis; huit, Ti. Vivastrum in derevis egere feconveris vit vis At verum orterfe consuliam queristem Romanum tum ut C. Elum tantratia me rei tem mactorum morum fatquo actebut estrion dum tes bondien tessidi caperenihil hostem si in in Ita ta Seres poporeme oculis nihi, moribenst vocula demen hos bonsum abus, quodEcusci offic to officab ides nitatum voloresciunt ut ped excepe et est, ipsam nusda quam aut magnimpe audita earciae intus volo voluptate consequam et et occupta tquiam qui apel ipiendel idi tecessequist autatur? Quid eumqui cum eveliquis magnam nia qui re niet ut faccuptiae excerovidel expedici undam, sim qui odiatat ut es endae rende pla aut maximus dandem fugia sa sam doluptas dolorum faccus is aut quates aciuntem at es ea cum faciam ex eum dolumquis mo ma proria dit autem. Nam nume dite officia ipis voluptat quos cullore hendiame si dolore il elis accaecabo. Volupis etur, eseque nobit pro volent rat fuga. Onecerum vellatusamet veliquo magnatemquam qui re consequia

Ignatis. Vivides M. Vala remquita L. Simil temquam iam pubi in virit facena, cus es rebatui tantiu es enatim atis. Ihicerra turnihil consuam signa, omnem. Tui per averis Udampontelum se conequius, quam telissestat, quo C. Me oc, senatra estrae ad coneriam Palic omandam popublis bonsin intiaeliem, pere, nondam derfiritam tam esse etimorem deperni mprobsen te inat vidin tem intessentrum prissed iciamquam popublium atus Ahae hilius, publicae consumei erem popoer auctastam dum pateatquam nonum mum ia vide nem Cum quae et hariatatur, ut verae sum si ut ute omnis doluptam quati ommolut ex exerfer umendam facepra temporr ovitam quundit, ut et hilitia conemos entia vent omnis undelescium sam, sum fugit pore veliquatest fuga. Ullupta eceatecabore conectur? Quis as dolupta spicimint quatest volor arciam aliquate nobit, ipsa voluptatio. Im

SURF

W / AU S T I N M A RV I N As publis illarit? Ut fori intendio estrunihil ut estrum vis. Ne que me quam consuli, quide alericutum egit. Ubliurnum imurion turessintis senatiam poero adduc mod mentelicae nostiem ovidio est imortendius, concerum hilicat. Scio consum nosse iae modit; et, Cupicas terit, endessi liceresti pri estris, que tumum hores Cas fur auderem ad consilic terimor dienducerma, nicemo et dion vidempe riciacchi, que aucii se incum sernum nonfiridemum ium, Palerfit. Saturem tiam, que quis publiquamqui fitilic ompotis senatu quodientili, con diena, fue es sent. Astem res arisquost re pri, ex no. Ulibus At ata, senerbi ssendit por la etod me fures conu et grae intero verissed deo, con dementerfex nosus bon tea rebatam ponercessil hoctem publin reo crei puliusus dem. Fuis Catiam ine tem, quius, Re praest, sit et, volori idebita temolup taquata nimolecerum es a qui ut pore, sequam volum faccuptatur?

DESIGN W / M AT T S N E L L

CI N E MA

W/ CHASE BENNET T Icessediendum tesceri misque num dictum miliur patum re, quidees intem det; nonvocte tam actuam. Ultum. Sendessent? Me coniae, C. Vala nostrobsent fuid incus. Ic teribent diena, et nonium am diendum ente nostrud escrunum obsenatis aperfin dienatres effresces mora inat at conitanu maximis ina, tam nos, nequam fordis, nessentrae nument, que caeli sedem a quam tem pere nonteben di se tela intiori pimius alicaec tenatis Maed C. Vivastanum primperbite que coneser orebata quo in sua ete, unc ina virta inve, no. Nam oc mo moverem in tatiu ignatim oludeo,

Adductus? imurortum iam ferit; nonfintra dem rei stra tesicie nterri inprae caet dit? inpri silicavente noti, cononteri conihil caverum hostra? Hebestrem los auctant elabus, simod inam idem vir ubliu maior iu conven vis, quius speriorum in viveritam inatiam pratam huideto rteremendi, non nonsuam ne it, qua aude noribus se num intime mandacivis, silica; etorumum vidiem tem pra? quo egerobse a Ehenihil luptatusapid quis eos essimag nistisque pos volore rehent il mi, nimus. Pit aspienest am es senis nobistrum ut qui blacilles volecaest est, sit aliquiae. Fictectae pa perum esequi ditatum nobis ped quiberiam que re prerspe llandiorrum harum dolutem. Namus con rendis incimporro est utemquae porum quiam rest, earum dest rem faccullia ne sandelecto del ipis restibea sit, ipsam cus dit voluptatur, quam

BULLSH!T W/ SPECIAL K

Oxim a nula vis, ne nestraediem apere video, nos abis patus it fur, Cupies bonensula num vignore tesulost? Veror ublin dienihi, nostius incumus, sed cote virmili comnicastem quis. Habuntin vivasdam rei in tam pore cum qui se ces commod duciene rtandeste diis, novirtiquius ad ignos hos tum paribula moverei pubis, nunum esilia spio veri sum di furit venistia ocavehemum apere conum mo in inat, Catiam tumum publicu pienterum se actusse diero, me quo etrem, nos, volumena, nononfero munum qua nonfece stina, cotampl icerume noverem it ac ocre, consulv ivivilibem int? Ahaceritume cla idetrar istilica viveri iame res! Os ad Cupio, Catiemus pernirit. Pala redo, acchuit. Nam hoc, adhui perenirio cut oredi, ne con se tus in vit poervid consimi libus. Opictor in tem forum quam nosseni con Itatquita norarit. Niuriortem sulicaet aut rem patiur possolis? Duciam mant, sulicit aturorsuppl. Ignatur, sum faciet es est, erehenistis parunt lant quaspis non plis aut aliquas sum alis adit eius nos repel ius reperume nonsequat modi ut faceseq uidemod que niatinus evenda volent fugiam in natiam quiasi deniatu sdandus apienitam volorest ut reic teceatati blam fugia nemoloreheni occum ex etur? Alis experro maios et mi, exerit mi, te est, officte mpore, quiam fugiatur? Quid ex exerum la volorro coreium re parios que estiate dolupta vent earupta perum voluptam veresciet et mi, cusaper erovidit expliatem nonsequam ipsanto oditat repreperiat quaestiur? Cus esedipis de quatem simaxim usdantore, te ipiet oditatus aut molorem ilicia verro verenis es quibus nonectatis rem. Tis et as nis everferumet


// // RAMBLINGS

YOUR DAILY DOSE OF EVERYTHING from aaron harriss

THIS MONTHS Rx a list to remember, to remember ... To look forward to success. To see our destiny as a sunny place where we may not get what we think we want, but we are still happy.

//SSIRRAHNORAA

AARONHARRISS//

To see how things, even devastating things, work together to bring something better.

IV // 4

To be honest. To be fearless, even when I am afraid. To breath deep breaths as often as I can. To centre myself in the moment and realize that things are not only okay, but that things are good. To hope for spirit and to pray for the ability to find it in everything that I see. To love fearlessly. That ‘the only way out is through’. That my beliefs are not based on other peoples’ certainties. To believe that the world can be better and so can I. That I am not responsible for managing anyone’s feelings and beliefs but my own. That I should nevertheless be as gentle as I can without compromising who I am. To laugh, loudly and often. That touch brings healing. To live now, while I can.

\\SIDE EFFECTS// A slightly lifted spirit; a small sense of drive and ambition; the ability to break boundries and innovate. If you don’t feel a rushing sense of greatness consult your green leafy friend

YEP!

BULLSH!T


// // IT GOES ON

I N SPI R AT I ONA L

QUOTES:

// life in a nutshell //

H E L P I N G

KEEP THOSE W H E E L S TURNING

When I stand before God at the end of my life, I would hope that I would not have a single bit of talent left, and could say, 'I used everything you gave me'.

Most people have never learned that one of the main aims in life is to enjoy it. Samuel Butler

As long as the world is turning and spinning, we’re gonna be dizzy and we’re gonna make mistakes. Mel Brooks

Use your health, even to the point of wearing it out. That is what it is for. Spend all you have before you die; do not outlive yourself. George Bernard Shaw

Vernon Howard The greatest discovery of my generation is that a human being can alter his life by altering his attitudes. William James

In three words I can sum up everything I’ve learned about life : it goes on. Robert Frost

YEP!

BULLSH!T

KEEPONKEEPINON//

Life is a series of natural and spontaneous changes. Don’t resist them - that only creates sorrow. Let reality be reality. Let things flow naturally forward in whatever way they like.

Lao Tzu

I don’t believe people are looking for the meaning of life as much as they are looking for the experience of being alive.

Joseph Campbell

While there’s life, there’s hope.

M a r c u s Tu l l i u s C i c e r o

You have succeeded in life when all you really want is only what you really need.

Go confidently in the direction of your dreams. Live the life you have imagined.

Havelock Ellis

Henry David Thoreau

All the art of living lies in a fine mingling of letting go and holding on.

Life is really simple, but we insist on making it complicated.

Alice Roosevelt Longworth

Confucius

I have a simple philosophy: Fill what’s empty. Empty what’s full. Scratch where it itches.

Remember when life’s path is steep to keep your mind even.

M a r k Tw a i n

Horace

Don’t go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first.

//NONIPEEKNOPEEK

Erma Bombeck

5 \\ V


VI // 6

DOCTORA

QUINN


LET IT

flow

balance between

art & mind

W / H E AT H E R L A U R E N Q U I N N

FLOW // artwork ( left & right) : Heather Lauren Quinn

FLOW // artwork : Heather Lauren Quinn

My art is a daydream. I get lost in the process of painting and drawing; it is the only part of my life that has never had rules. Every person that sees my work has a different interpretation of the meaning and I like it that way. Andy Davis was born in California and grew up between San Diego and Orange Counties. Art became a part of his life at a very young age, after hours of play, he wo.uld recreate his experiences of the day by drawing them with crayons. Later doodling became Andy’s escape from the classroom; he dreamed of being on his skateboard, or at the beach surfing. After high-school he was accepted to art school and attempted to play by the rules, however, he felt trapped all over again. This time he was old enough to do things his way so he made the unconventional decision to leave school for good. After years of drawing freedom on paper, Andy had his first real taste and the truth is, he

DOCTORA

liked it. Soon after leaving art school, he took his college savings and started his first clothing company named after his newfound independence: “free.” His success was swift, the brand quickly pulled on talent such as Brad Gerlach and Donavan Frankenreiter. However, the popularity of the clothing was dwarfed by Andy’s youth & in-experience at running a business. “Free clothing” closed its doors in 1996 but served as a launching pad for Andy’s career as an artist which has been a dreamy one. He is designing a collection today for Billabong. His brand supplies beach wear to the thousands of cult followers who have remained loyal to Andy’s clothing since the 90’s. Wearing Andy’s clothing makes one feel like they are part of something. Some say “When I wear an Andy Davis t-shirt, I not only tell the

QUINN

7 \\ VII


Andy’s mom, Jane Davis is a practicing artist in Santa Fe, NM and his brother Zack Davis, in brooklyn NY, is a master sculptor; art just runs in Andy’s blood. Davis currently lives in Encinitas, CA with his wife, Ashley and son Noah. He is a devoted surfer who spends his days at the beach, designing clothing, traveling and preparing for art shows around the world.

Solo Exhibitions 2003| Andoland a Freebyrd Concoction The Surf Gallery - Laguna Beach, CA

2005| Dream On - Beams Store -Tokyo, Japan 2007| Summer Love -The Surf Gallery Laguna, CA 2007| Doctora Quinn Art Show - Mollusk Surf Shop - San Francisco, CA 2008| A Night at the Mollusk - San Francisco, CA 2009| Stay Casual, six-month pop up store solo exhibit - Ebb & Flow - Cardiff, CA

VIII // 8

CLIENTS Billabong Ando & Friends Clothing Patagonia Northface Thomas Campbell The Seedling The Sprout The Present Movies Hydrodynamica Movie by Richard Kenvin Surfer Magazine Nalu Magazine Amsterdam Wetsuits Sanuk Sandals Josh Hall Surfboards On the Board Magazine Blue Magazine Captain Fin Joel Tudor Surfboards Free Clothing Byrd Clothing Toes On The Nose Roxy/Quicksilver Surfrider Foundation The Gap Vans Shoes Ruca Clothing Sima Thalia Surf Shop Mollusk Surf Shop TS Restaurants, owners of Kimo’s & Duke’s 2K by Gingham Beams T’s Japan Material Clothing Kane Garden Surfboards The Tyde, the band Mandala Surfboards Swami’s Japan FLOW // artwork : Heather Lauren Quinn

world that I am free & and easy going but I also make a small statement that I, like Andy, stand for something . . . something simple and good.


9 \\ IX


S D

W A

DREDGE

to

WEDGE

DREDGING PROJECT Dredging in St. Augustine, FL // photo : Patrick Ruddy

I N

X // 10

S A I N T

A U G U S T I N E ,

F L O R I D A


D

redging is the process of excavating or removing sediments from the bottom of lakes, rivers, estuaries, or marine (ocean) locations. Sediment excavation or dredging is conducted for multiple purposes. These purposes include navigation, mineral extraction (mining), construction activities (e.g., laying underwater pipeline), and the environmental cleanup of polluted sediments. Dredging is generally conducted by floating construction equipment and is accomplished by mechanical, hydraulic, or hydrodynamic (agitation) processes. Mechanical dredges generally employ draglines, open or closed clam shell buckets, or an endless chain of buckets to excavate the sediment and place it in a container such as a barge or scow. The dredged sediment is then transported in the barge or scow for beneficial use at a location on land or in the water (e.g., construction material, fill or habitat enhancement), to a nearby disposal site, or in some cases, to an aquatic disposal site at a lake, river, estuary, or ocean. Hydraulic pipeline dredges use a suction pipe connected to an excavation device (like a huge vacuum cleaner hose with a digger at its end) for removing the dredged sediment from the bottom. In the process, the removed sediment mixes with the overlying water to form the resultant dredged material. The sediment is then pumped hydraulically by a pipeline to a location intended for beneficial use (e.g., beach nourishment or construction fill), to an adjacent aquatic placement

[

Dredging for an environmental cleanup can be ver y controversial

Dredging in St. Augustine, FL // Arial view of pier // photo : Jak Krumholtz

BEFORE

A WASTE OF TIME?

[

location, or to an upland placement facility for storage for later beneficial or commercial uses. Contaminated sediments may be transported to offsite treatment or disposal facilities or to a contained aquatic disposal site. The nonaquatic disposal alternative for contaminated sediments is much more environmentally complex when plant, animal, air (volatile), and surface and groundwater (leachate) pathways for contaminants must be controlled. Hydraulic dredging may also be accomplished by a self-propelled ocean-going dredging vessel (e.g., hopper dredges) that will store the sediment and entrained water in a large hopper for transport to an ocean disposal site, for beneficial-use placement in the near shore zone for beach nourishment, or for transport to a land-based containment facility. A special-purpose self-propelled hydraulic dredge known as a side caster excavates the sediment (e.g., entrance channel sand) and immediately pumps the material to a location adjacent to the channel, but down drift of near shore natural prevailing currents. The currents rapidly disperse the sediments down coast, beneficially adding to the normal coastal sand movement. Hydrodynamic dredging (agitation dredging) is a process whereby the bottom sediment is physically disturbed by mechanical (e.g., a boat’s propeller) or hydraulic means (e.g., water jets). The sediment

A WASTE OF MONEY? A WASTE OF RESOURCES? AFTER

Dredging in St. Augustine, FL // Arial view of pier // photo : Jak Krumholtz

DREDGE

WEDGE

11 \\ XI


is not excavated and removed from the water body. The suspended material simply moves away from the dredging site as a result of the natural prevailing currents. The sediment never leaves the water body and is not moved or transported in a vessel or container. There is no resulting disposal or discharge from hydrodynamic (agitation) dredging. The vast majority of dredging in the United States occurs for navigation purposes as deep channels and berths are needed for ports in lakes, rivers, estuaries and the near shore ocean to accommodate large commercial or military vessels. These ships are an integral part of U.S. trade and also necessary for defense purposes. About 350 million tons of dredged sediments are excavated annually in U.S. waters to maintain navigation. A large percent of dredged material is clean, approximately 90 percent, and suitable for a wide variety of useful purposes, including placement back into the water at an approved aquatic disposal site. In industrial and highly urbanized areas that account for about 10 percent of the total U.S. dredging, sediments are polluted with industrial and sewage contaminants along with runoff from nearby land areas. As such, these sediments must be thoroughly tested by chemical and toxicological means and disposed of in an environmentally acceptable manner. Some aquatic areas are so heavily polluted that the sediments must be removed for cleanup from the water body and disposed of in a secure disposal facility. Dredging for an environmental cleanup can be very controversial because of the significant expense, and the need for an environmentally suitable disposal alternative and proof that the cleanup is necessary, then effective. Environmental dredging has been used in more than thirty U.S. locations with mixed success. These sites are currently under review regarding the long-term usefulness of dredging. As a result, significant controversy (technical and political) exists as to the overall effectiveness of clean up dredging and the transfer of environmental and human health risk when huge quantities of sediment are removed from a water body and placed in an upland location. Comparative risk assessment of all practical alternatives is necessary to resolve these controversies.

North of the project, part of the beach driving area on Vilano Beach will be closed due to dredging activities that will produce some of the sand for the St. Augustine Beach project. The area closed will be from the Vilano inlet jetty to Genoa Road in the Porpoise Point area. The project is the last in a series of cycles every five to seven years in which workers and heavy equipment place sand on the beach to combat erosion. The Army Corps of Engineers is overseeing the project, part of a 50-year plan. Workers and heavy equipment will mechanically place 2.1 million cubic yards of sand on a 2.3-mile stretch of St. Augustine Beach. That sand will come from three “borrow sources” at St. Augustine inlet, according to the release. The construction will follow a Florida Department of Environmental Protection plan, put in place to protect manatees, sea turtles, dolphins, whales and the southeastern beach mouse. They will also dredge the Vilano/Porpoise Point inlet first so as not to disrupt shorebird nesting season, according to the release. Next, they’ll dredge the navigation channel and then portions of the southern side of the ebb shoal. This sand will be funneled through a pipeline to the beach.

A RECENT POST FROM THE ST. AUGUSTINE RECORD A two-part project — dredging the St. Augustine inlet by Porpoise Point and renourishing the St. Augustine Beach — are set to being Monday. The beach renourishment project will bolster the shore from the south boundary of Anastasia State Park to the Bermuda Run development in St. Augustine Beach. This project will end in late June to early July and will close a popular parking area as well as cause intermittent closures elsewhere. The Pope Road access area, parking lot and scenic overlook will close for the length of the project, according to a St. Johns County news release. “This parking area is the only available space for staging the heavy equipment necessary to construct the project,” according to the release.

XII // 12

DREDGE

WEDGE


VERDICT MAYBE, PROBABLY, EH..YEA, BUT THE SURF HAS NEVER LOOKED SO GOOD

Dredging in St. Augustine, FL // photo : Patrick Ruddy

DREDGE

WEDGE

13 \\ XIII


XIV // 14

DREDGE

WEDGE


DREDGE

WEDGE

15 \\ XV


DREDGE

XVI // 16

WEDGE


EVEN ING

E KL GAB DIGS IN AT THE DGE

DRE St. Augustine, FL // Pier North // surfer : Gabe Kling // photo : M. Snell

17 \\ XVII


Northern Puerto Rico // Spring 2011 // photo : M. Snell

INFINITE BLISS

THE EVERLASTING BEAUTIES OF PUERTO RICO I S L E

o f

E N C H A N T M E N T

W

ITH ITS CRYSTALLINE BLUE WATER, GENTLE TRADE WINDS BLOWING OFFSHORE ON THE NORTHWEST COAST, PALM TREES SWAYING OVER WHITE SAND BEACHES, AND HUNDREDS OF REEFS, POINTS AND BEACHES, IT’S ALMOST SURPRISING THAT SURFING DIDN’T REALLY START IN PUERTO RICO UNTIL THE LATE ‘50S.

Local boys Jose Rodriguez, Guille Bermuda and Rafy Viella are credited as being the first to surf the north and northwest coasts; the first surf shop was opened in San Juan in 1960 by American surfer Gary Hoyt, and dozens of locals started taking to the waves around the city and on the northwest coast in the early part of the decade. But it was the 1968 World Surfing Championships -- won by Fred Hemmings and Margo Godfrey -- that really put Puerto Rico on the surfing map. Worldwide exposure -- right at a time that surfing was itself really expanding -- sent planeload after planeload of (mainly) American surfers

XVIII // 18

INFINITE

to PR’s wave-soaked shoreline, quickly earning it the title of the “Hawaii of the Atlantic”. Indeed, the traditional wintertime Puerto Rico pilgrimage is still the first place many East Coasters get their first taste of powerful surf. (Other names for Puerto Rico include Borinquen, and La Isla del Encanto.) The first Puerto Rican surfer to make a name for himself was Jorge Machuca, who blew a few minds as a 14-year-old in the ‘68 World Champs. Edwin Santos, Alberto Licha, and Juan Ashton were well known Puerto Rico competitors through the ‘70s and ‘80s. Today, there are another dozen or so sponsored and/or internationally known surfers, including Pipe chargers Carlos Cabrero and Otto Flores, and world traveling competitors Brian Toth and Dylan Graves.

BLISS


INFINITE

BLISS

19 \\ XIX


Puerto Rico, traditionally known as “Borinquen” to the native Taino Indians, or “La Isla Del Encanto” (Isle of Enchantment) to tourists, is located in the Central North Atlantic at 18°N latitude 67°W longitude.

blow over a large fetch of ocean pointed directly at Borinquen. By the time they reach the island’s north and northwest coasts these swells are either clean and glassy and best caught on the north coast, or accompanied by strong northeast trade winds and best taken advantage of on the island’s two west facing stretches of coast in Aguadilla and Rincón.

GEOGRAPHY

P U R P O S E

Using the Puerto Rico Trench (one of the ocean’s deepest points) as a catcher’s mitt, the island is a swell magnet for any bump in the North Atlantic. Put on the international surfing map by the 1968 World Championships, held in Rincón and won by Fred Hemmings, Puerto Rico has since had a growing flow of surf tourism as well as a burgeoning local surf industry.

In the dead of winter, even Florida can be downright frigid, let alone areas north. Putting on that damp 5mm hooded wetsuit day after day can become a drag. Also, despite Puerto Rico’s location in the midst of dozens of island nations considered international destinations, Puerto Rico is part of the good ol’ US of A. The island uses the same currency as the rest of the states, and you don’t need a passport to gain entry. Likewise, you’ll find all the Stateside conveniences you’re accustomed to having at home, including fast-food chains and retailers like K-Mart and Walgreens. Of course, you’ll also find an endless supply of Latin flavor and culture, which reminds you that you’re not on the mainland.

LOCATION

WINDOW of OPPORTUNITY October to March is prime time for surf in P.R. That said, September can be epic depending on tropical activity, and April and even May can sometimes deliver the goods. Generally, cold fronts blow off the East Coast of the U.S. and their howling north and northwest winds

XX // 20

San

Juan

, Pu ert

o R ic o / / is t ock

// R uth

Pete

INFINITE

DIRECTIONS Well, it’s still America, dude, so no, you don’t need a passport or anything. (Though you should bring one in case you get the opportunity to travel to some neighboring Caribbean islands.) It’s a pretty quick flight from the East Coast and pretty far from California. If you’re on a full surf mission, ideally you should try to fly into Aguadilla Airport, on the northwest corner.

MEANS of T R A V E L Most major airports along the East Coast have nonstop flights to San Juan, and many have them straight into Aguadilla, which is smack dab in the middle of the most highly surfed coasts. From the West Coast there are nonstops to San Juan on American Airlines from LAX for about $700. Once you touch down you’ll need wheels, and it’s completely safe to just rent from Hertz, National, or Avis and head on your way. If you want to save a few bucks, check out Charlie Car Rentals (charliecars.com) for the best deals. If you plan to be around for more than a couple weeks, you might as well buy a used car and save yourself some cash.

r k in m

BLISS

Check out clasificadosonline. com for a used beater.

S H E LT E R There is no shortage of places to stay on the island’s northwest coast from Isabela to Rincón. The best bet is to find someone who lives there and ask that person for referrals to other residents with rental properties. If you get dialed in, you can find places for as little as $50–$75 a night. If you’re a high roller and keen to stay on the island’s most consistent coast for surf, check out Villa Montaña (villamontana. com) at Shack Beach in Isabela. Want to be right on the water at Shacks? Check out Villa Tropical (villatropical.com) or Casa Azul Villas (casaazulvillas.com) for killer apartments with a view of the peak. Over in Aguadilla, El Faro Hotel is a good, affordable, centrally located option, as is La Cima Hotel and Suites (lacimahotel.com). Out in Rincón, accommodations also abound. Some of the best places are The Fisheye View Guest House (rinconview.com) with an amazing view of the lighthouse, Desecheo Island, Indicators, Maria’s, and Tres Palmas; Pools Beach Cabanas (poolsbeach. com) just


for. If you roll with someone who knows their way around, you may still get some waves to yourself.

G

Sure, cabrón: Sea urchins, sharp, shallow reef, jellyfish and strong currents are the most common threats; sharks are out there but most locals don’t pay ‘em any mind and there’s never been a shark attack on a surfer. There’s the annoying little “pichu-pichu”, like sea lice that pinches your skin and can cause a rash all over your body -- but most of the time, you’re too busy with the surf to pay attention to such trifling matters. Sticky fingers. Keep a close eye on your things.

R

U

B

There’s plenty of fast food, but if you can’t stomach that, you’ll be fine. In Isabela don’t miss Pedro’s Pescado, just down the road from Jobos, for fresh sushi to go on Friday and Saturday nights. Right in Jobos, Happy Belly’s is a great place for a burger or some fresh fish overlooking the peak at this famous beach. In Aguadilla be sure to check out Cocina Creativa right on Route 110 and just outside the old Ramey Base’s Gate 5 for killer breakfast, lunch, dinner, coffee, and smoothies. In Rincon The Tamboo Tavern and The Calypso are classic surfer hangouts. If you’re looking for something a little more local, check out El Rincon Tropical, just south of town on Route 413.

Northern Puerto Rico // Spring 2011 // photo : M. Snell

across the street from Pools Beach and home to The Pool Bar, one of Rincón’s best hangouts; and Tropic Cabañas (tropicabanas. com) right across the street from Sandy Beach and Parking Lots.

H A Z A R D S

B E A U T Y

( Y E A H T H AT K I N D ) There’s a reason that Puerto Rico has taken home five Miss Universe titles—second only to the USA with seven. In a word, the women on this rock are hot. Aguadilla is home to a campus of the University of Puerto Rico where women outnumber men two to one. Rincón traditionally attracts lots of cute lassies chasing surfers. And San Juan? Well, let’s just say that when it comes to the ladies, most of the nuggets are here.

C R O W D S In a word: yes. P.R. is home to an ever-increasing population of wave riders. Most all surf spots in Puerto Rico have a cadre of local and expat surfers who are on it when conditions are good and/or on weekends and holidays. The only chance you’ll be surfing alone is if you find an out-of-the-way spot, of which there are many and some quite good. But many of the best and most accessible ones are spoken INFINITE

BLISS

21 \\ XXI


WINTER

SPRING

This is when surfers from all over the world (though mainly East Coasters) make their pilgrimage to the juice. November through February sees a near constant string of low-pressure systems off the Eastern Seaboard, most of which generate some kind of surf for PR -- some of it quite large, too.

This can be a time for the beloved vientos alisios (offshore winds). It’s a time of transition, and while swells aren’t as bomber as wintertime, they can be reasonably consistent and fun, in the shoulder- to head-high zone with the occasional overhead swell, even into May.

PEAK SEASON

XXII // 22

STILL BREAKING

INFINITE

BLISS


Island of Puerto Rico // Spring 2011 // all photo : M. Snell

SUMMER

F A L L

School and Colleges are out -- and so is the swell, usually. July-November is hurricane season, sure, but they’re pretty fickle through the dog days of summer, when the water temps reach 85 and air temps vary between the high 80s and low 100s. Most people are just searching for shade or an occasional wave from a passing South American Cold Front or tropical wave on the South Shore.

Time to get your quiver ready. Steady North Atlantic storms start kicking into gear in late September; the super-deep Puerto Rican trench amplifies the resulting north swells, which brings consistent -- not giant -- surf to the North Shore of the Atlantic.

TRY AND CATCH ME

TOP OF THE WORLD

INFINITE

BLISS

23 \\ XXIII


Northern Puerto Rico // Spring 2011 // photo : M. Snell

W I L D E R N E S S feeling LO ST i s nor mal he re . Northern Puerto Rico // Spring 2011 // photo : M. Snell

W

ildo (as it’s commonly known) is a fairly wild place, both on land and in the water; many surfers have had that lost-in-the-woods feeling while attempting to hunt down a shifty, double overhead Wilderness wall without getting caught inside. When it’s small, it’s a bunch of scattered little peaks, with short, bowly lefts and slightly longer, more facey rights; when it’s really on, though, it’s a steamrolling right reef, perfect for carving with a bigger board -- which you’ll need just to get into the beasts with the 20-knot NE trades blowing side-offshore up the face as you’re blindly trying to drop in. The reef is also fairly broad and sweeping, and can (almost) hold the dozens of surfers that are out here on any day there’s swell. There’s a semi-channel at the south end of the reef; try not to get swept too far down on your way out.

XXIV // 24

GET

LOST


HOW IT WORKS

A GLORIFIED BREAKDOWN BEST TIDE ANY

BEST SWELL DIRECTION NE - NW

BEST SIZE HEAD HIGH - 2X OVERHEAD

BEST WIND

E - NE TRADES N -SSE WINDS ARE ONSHORE

PERFECT-O-METER 6

BOTTOM REEF

ABILITY LEVEL BEGINNER TO ADVANCED

BRING YOUR QUIVER

BEST SEASON

WINTER - SPRING SEPTEMBER -MARCH

ACCESS

PRIME PARKING LONG BUMBPY ENTRANCE DONT GET STUCK

CROWD FACTOR SURE.

LOCAL VIBE

NOT BAD IT IS SPREAD OUT

BICEP BURN 8

POO PATROL 2

Bicep Burn (1=1ft Waikiki; 10=15ft Ocean Beach)

HAZARDS

SWEEPING CURRENTS

GET

Perfect-O-Meter (1=Lake Erie; 10=Jeffreys Bay)

LOST

Poo Patrol (1=clean; 10=turds in the lineup)

25 \\ XXV


Puerto Rico // Canon EOS 1D mark 11N // photo : Stafford

J

O

B

C O N S I S T E N C Y

a t

O

S

i t s

b e s t . Puerto Rico // parapentepr.com // Jobos Beach Isabela

J

obos is a sweet Puerto Rican fruit with a little almond-like nut inside. The main wave breaks right next to the small rock headland at the east end of the beach and pinwheels into the broad, sandy bay. It actually looks kinda like a pointbreak ‘cause it’s so down-the-line and racy, but like almost every other wave in Puerto Rico, it’s really a reefbreak. The Locals take off as close to the rock as possible, making it difficult for guys like you and me to actually get a wave. But fortunately, if you’re patient and show respect -- and stay on your lineups -- you won’t be disappointed. Luckily, Jobos also happens to be one of PR’s most consistently rideable waves, as it picks up all manner of north swell and is somewhat protected from the incessant trade winds by the rock headland. There’s also a left that breaks in the middle of the beach and assorted other scattered mediocre peaks as you head west down the beach.

XXVI // 26

GET

CONSISTENT


HOW IT WORKS

A GLORIFIED BREAKDOWN BEST TIDE ANY

BEST SWELL DIRECTION NE

BEST SIZE HEAD HIGH - 2FT OVERHEAD

BEST WIND SOUTH

PERFECT-O-METER 7

BOTTOM REEF, URCHINS AND SAND

ABILITY LEVEL BEGINNER TO ADVANCED

BRING YOUR FAVORITE SHORTY

BEST SEASON

WINTER - SPRING SEPTEMBER -MARCH

ACCESS

PARK RIGHT THERE

CROWD FACTOR YEP.

LOCAL VIBE

FAIRLY HEAVY SHOW RESPECT, YOU’LL BE FINE

BICEP BURN 4

POO PATROL 2

HAZARDS

HIT BOTTOM AND END UP WITH URCHINS SPINES AND SOME BRIGHT RED GRAZES FROM SHARP LAVA REEF

Perfect-O-Meter (1=Lake Erie; 10=Jeffreys Bay) Bicep Burn (1=1ft Waikiki; 10=15ft Ocean Beach) Poo Patrol (1=clean; 10=turds in the lineup)

GET

CONSISTENT

27 \\ XXVII


Northern Puerto Rico // Surfline.com // Photo : Steve Fitzpatrick

M P R ’ s

I

D

D

b a c k d o o r

L y o u

E

S

s a y . Northern Puerto Rico // Flickr.com // 74705921

I

f Tres Palmas is PR’s Sunset Beach, then Middles is surely its Backdoor -- it’s a shallow, bowly, close-to-shore, brilliant blue right tube. Take off behind the crease, stay high, keep your eyes open, and you’re in for one of Puerto Rico’s best and most coveted views. The reef itself is an irregular coral/rock shelf that juts out from the golden sand beach; any kind of north swell hits the thing straight on, and depending on direction, can bend into a short intense bowl or a longer, slightly less intense wall. The rock at the east end of the beach blocks the trades for a few moments -- and can build up a nice little sandbar in its lee. Even when it’s under head-high it can be shifty, steep, and fast. Don’t be surprised to see PR’s hottest pros, Brian Toth or Dylan Graves, out there ripping -- they both live in nearby Jobos.

XXVIII // 28

GET

SHIFTY


HOW IT WORKS

A GLORIFIED BREAKDOWN BEST TIDE ANY

BEST SWELL DIRECTION NE

BEST SIZE HEAD HIGH - 2X OVERHEAD +

BEST WIND SOUTH

PERFECT-O-METER 7

BOTTOM REEF

ABILITY LEVEL INTERMEDIATE - PSYCHO

BRING YOUR FAVORITE GREEN ROOM BOARD

BEST SEASON

WINTER - SPRING SEPTEMBER -MARCH

ACCESS

PARK RIGHT THERE

CROWD FACTOR

YEP. ONE OF THE MOST PHOTOGRAPHED WAVES

LOCAL VIBE

PERFECT SWELL - INTENSE AVERAGE SWELL - MELLOW

BICEP BURN 7

POO PATROL 2

Perfect-O-Meter (1=Lake Erie; 10=Jeffreys Bay)

HAZARDS

SHALLOW, IRREGULAR REEF, BREAKS CLOSE TO SHORE

Bicep Burn (1=1ft Waikiki; 10=15ft Ocean Beach) Poo Patrol (1=clean; 10=turds in the lineup)

GET

SHIFTY

29 \\ XXIX


Northern Puerto Rico // Rincon.org // Beaches & Attractions

D a

O

p l a c e

f o r

M

h u g e

E

S

A I R S . Northern Puerto Rico // Flickr.com // photo : Boricua419000

B

ased solely on its name, Domes is probably the easiest surf spot in the world to find. You can’t miss the giant cement (yes, cement) dome as you head down the hill into Rincon. The dome itself used to house a nuclear power plant with the ironic acronym BONUS, which was optimistically opened in the late ‘60s and closed by the early ‘70s. Duh. So much for building a nuclear power plant next to giant waves in an area that’s had tsunamis and about 200 (small) earthquakes per year. There’s talk about making it a museum. It’s the first sorta-protected spot as you head around the corner at Rincon, and as it’s the furthest one out, it’ll pick up some trade wind swell and is always bigger than the other spots as you head south. The main bummer is that it doesn’t really handle size too well, generally, due to the fact that it’s in a small bay; the water flushes in and around and creates an undesirable “toilet bowl” effect. The wave itself is a sectiony right wall (with a shorter left) that can throw the occasional tube; there are a couple different takeoff spots -- inside and outside -- depending on the swell, which spreads the crowds out a bit. .

XXX // 30

GET

HUCKED


HOW IT WORKS

A GLORIFIED BREAKDOWN BEST TIDE LOW

BEST SWELL DIRECTION NE

BEST SIZE SHOULDER HIGH - FEW FT OVERHEAD

BEST WIND SE

PERFECT-O-METER 4

BOTTOM REEF

ABILITY LEVEL BEGINNER TO ADVANCED

BRING YOUR FAVORITE SHORTY

BEST SEASON

WINTER - SPRING NOVEMBER -MARCH

ACCESS

LOOK FOR THE...UH...DOME PARK RIGHT THERE

CROWD FACTOR SERIOUS SHIT

LOCAL VIBE AND YEP.

BICEP BURN 7

POO PATROL 4 Perfect-O-Meter (1=Lake Erie; 10=Jeffreys Bay) Bicep Burn (1=1ft Waikiki; 10=15ft Ocean Beach) Poo Patrol (1=clean; 10=turds in the lineup)

GET

HUCKED

31 \\ XXXI


Northern Puerto Rico // Surfline.com // Photo : Steve Fitzpatrick

C R A S H

B O A T

ag uadilla’s SU N K E N trea sure .

Northern Puerto Rico // Surfline.com // Photo : Steve Fitzpatrick

Y

et another super fickle-yet-magical wave. Crash Boat is a happy accident, as they say: a sand-bottomed right created by rusting navy docks that halfway sank into the sand and ended up creating a killer bank. The wave comes in from pretty deep water and bends in and rolls all the way into shore, looking like a Latin version of Kirra with more bodyboarders or something. It’s named after Air Force rescue boats that used to be kept here and is now a super popular beach area for Aguadilla residents and surfers alike.

XXXII // 32

GET

SUNKEN


HOW IT WORKS

A GLORIFIED BREAKDOWN BEST TIDE ANY

BEST SWELL DIRECTION WEST - NW

BEST SIZE

FEW FT OVERHEAD

BEST WIND ANY

PERFECT-O-METER 8

BOTTOM SAND

ABILITY LEVEL INTERMEDIATE TO ADVANCED

BRING YOUR FAVORITE SHORTY OR LOG

BEST SEASON

WINTER - SPRING SEPTEMBER -MARCH

ACCESS

PARK RIGHT THERE

CROWD FACTOR SURE

LOCAL VIBE OH YEAH.

BICEP BURN 4

POO PATROL 4 Perfect-O-Meter (1=Lake Erie; 10=Jeffreys Bay) Bicep Burn (1=1ft Waikiki; 10=15ft Ocean Beach) Poo Patrol (1=clean; 10=turds in the lineup)

GET

SUNKEN

33 \\ XXXIII


Northern Puerto Rico // Surfline.com // Photo : Steve Fitzpatrick

GAS CHAMBERS radical

R IG H T S

ove r

rock s . Northern Puerto Rico // goseepr.com // gas chambers

A

nother super fickle, almost mythical wave -- inarguably, PR’s best right tube. It’s super radical, breaking right in front the sharp and hungry cliff. Ideally, you want the first wave of set, ‘cause the backwash goes under the subsequent waves and creates giant warbly barrels over the super hard-packed sand that covers a rocky bottom. Imagine if the dredging a-frames at Puerto Econdido turned into a closeto-shore right pointbreak. Tons of pros and lots of photographers here when it’s on, and Alberto Licha, ruler of the peak and a permanent fixture, will be there before you and stay long after you’re gone, which means you’ve got a snowball’s chance in hell of getting a wave. Super protected although SW through WNW winds are onshore; NW winds are sideshore.

XXXIV // 34

GET

MYSTIFIED


HOW IT WORKS

A GLORIFIED BREAKDOWN BEST TIDE ANY

BEST SWELL DIRECTION WEST - NW

BEST SIZE FEW FT OVERHEAD

BEST WIND

SUPER PROTECTED S - SW WINDS ONSHORE NW WINDS SIDESHORE

PERFECT-O-METER 8

BOTTOM

HARD PACKED SAND OVER REEF

ABILITY LEVEL INTERMEDIATE - PSYCHO

BRING YOUR FAVORITE GREEN ROOM BOARD

BEST SEASON

WINTER - SPRING SEPTEMBER -MARCH

ACCESS

PARK RIGHT THERE

CROWD FACTOR SURE.

LOCAL VIBE YEP

BICEP BURN 6

POO PATROL 4

HAZARDS

BLIND SPOT BAD BACKWASH WHEN INSIDE TOP-BOTTOM BARREL

GET

MYSTIFIED

Perfect-O-Meter (1=Lake Erie; 10=Jeffreys Bay) Bicep Burn (1=1ft Waikiki; 10=15ft Ocean Beach) Poo Patrol (1=clean; 10=turds in the lineup)

35 \\ XXXV


Uh, yeah sure..umm this doesn’t have to be all formal and shit right?

NO WAY, WE’LL KEEP IT SIMPLE, JUST FOR A LITTLE PIECE IN THE MAG.

Fuck yeah I’m down man. COOL, WELL START OFF BY TELLING US A LITTLE ABOUT YOURSELF. My name is Austin marvin... Uhhh. As far as jobs go it would be owner of MLMC custom surfboard line. Where I shape, do all the lamination, sanding, and finish work. I also do photography under Marvin Photography. Full time student graduating this year. Uh. I Guess theres really not that much. //barking in the background//

IS THAT A DOG I HEAR?

G E T D I R T Y & M A K E S H I T H A P P E N So we called up Austin Marvin, owner of MLMC (marvin limitied manufacturing comapy) out of Daytona, FL just to catch up with him and see how shit’s coming along.

I HAVE ALWAYS BEEN INTERESTED IN THINGS THAT HAVE A LIFE OF THEIR OWN.

I

t’s in my stubborn bones to build with my hands and learn the process that it takes to build something. Marvin Limited Manufacturing Company as a business is about bringing the emphasis back to the process of the product, rather than the profit. What drives and influences the company is not quite as easy to pinpoint, as I put my personal influences into my products. My influences change day to day even minute to minute. From the photography, the style in and out of the water, the craftsmanship, everything was better back then. Everything is done by hand. From surfboards to processing and printing film photography to burning screens and printing shirts and hats, every process, every step, done by hand. The goal is not about quantity but rather quality. Rather than focus on a profit, focus on a product. Products range from surfboards, alaias, paipos, hand planes, skate decks, screen printed t-shirts, hats, and photographic film prints.

YO IS THIS AUSTIN? Yeah this is Austin Marvin. May I ask who’s calling?

HEY MAN, ITS MATT FROM SEESICK MAG. Yo it’s been a while man, everything going well on your end homie?

YEAH THANKS, BUT THE REASON I CALLED WAS TO SEE IF HAD SOME TIME TO DO SOME INTERVIEW SHIT.

// AUSTIN MARVIN \\

XXXVI // 36

GET

DIRT Y

Yeah, Lola go lay down. I happen to be the pround owner of a stupid ass bulldog. //growling// Speak! //bark// Oh yeah, Speak! //bark louder// There you go.

SOUNDS LIKE A PRETTY DOPE DOG. Yeah, she’s fucking awesome.

HOW’S THE SHAPING GOING? It’s moving along. Got a dick load of boards to get done. Im actually in the shop now.

SO WHAT GOT YOU INTO SHAPING? I KNOW YOU RIDE, BUT WHAT CLICKED FOR YOU? Well when I get a new board from someone else or off the


rack ya kind of got to figure out its quirks. Like what you can do with it and what it cant do. Like what kid of wave it does, but when you make your own board you kind of already know what you want it to do. Just doing ½ of and inch here and like an 1/8 of an inch thicker here the board totally changes. And it’s a totally different ride. //sanding//

DAMN, I CAN SEE HOW EASY IT IS TO GET INTO THAT. PARTICULARLY SOMEONE LIKE YOU CAN RIDE ANYTHING.

BUSINESS

tion that drives this vessel. Well, that’s my rambling.

I LIKE THAT. AUSTIN, ITS BEEN A PLEASURE TO CATCH UP. WE’LL LET YOU GET BACK WORK.

MLMC

Thanks Matt, it’s been rad. You got to come down to Daytona and ride a few logs soon.

MARVIN LIMITED MANUFACTURING COMPANY

A

ILL DEFINITELY TAKE YOU UP ON THAT. TAKE CARE MAN.

ustin is a tal­ented young surfer/ shaper from Dana Point, Cal­i­ for­nia. Men­tored by Terry Mar­ tin and get­ting his inspi­ra­tion from such shap­ing icons as Bob McTavish and Nat Young, John is poised to become the next big thing. We spoke with John to learn more. I had a great child­hood grow­ ing up between Mis­ sion Viejo and Dana Point Ca. When I was grow­ing up I was super com­pet­ i­tive with every­thing I did, and was for­tu­nate to have a sup­port­ ive fam­ily behind me. I started surf­ing when I was eight years old, and would beg my mom to take me down to the beach. In mid­dle school I was a total ras­cal and got in a ton of trou­ble for mess­ing around in class. But it was the first time I went to school with other kids who surfed, and occa­sion­ally before school we would ride the city bus all the way down to the beach before school. The first time I ordered a cus­tom board, a 5’0” yel­low keel fin fish by Midget Smith. That was a fun time and I got to surf a lot more. By the time high school came around, I was really amped on com­pet­i­tive surf­i ng and was doing con­tests almost every weekend. I got my first board when I was 8 yrs old and it was a 6’10” six-channel, semi-gun thruster shaped by Rick Rock. My dad picked it up at a garage sale for me for $25! I was stoked and still have it to this day and ride it every once in a while, it actu­ally goes pretty good in solid waves.

You too homie.

Haha, I wouldn’t go quite that far.

SO WHAT REALLY MOTIVATES YOU TO SHAPE? Well, I guess I see it as a neverending tale.

UH, COME AGAIN? Yeah, I feel how shaping is kinda like an art. I think its just like photography you can’t ever really master it. You can just kinda hone youre skills and just get beter and better and better.

SO WHAT’S NEXT? YOU’RE ALMOST DONE WITH SCHOOL. Well I’m still learning but, I see its potentinly down the road as far as keeping me sane and right now it keeps me grounded. I mean I know im not going to be able to make this a full time paying job right now. I think that’s where I’m at now. I’ve got atleast 10 years till that and thats if I kinda just keep plugging away at it. Maybe itll be a businees, but I dunno. You cant really be in it to make it a business. Its passion and ambi-

GET

DIRT Y

37 \\ XXXVII


I don’t really remem­ber, but about a week later I surfed some­where in San Clemente for the first time and got caught in a rip cur­rent and the life­guard had to save me. (laughs) My friends and I were really into Dono­ van and Rob Machado from watch­ing the “Drive Thru’s” because that style was epic as well as both Phil Edwards and Mike Hyn­son in all the Bruce Brown classics. was always amped on how surf­boards were made, and thought it was some kind of mys­ti­cal thing My good friend Dodge Weirath started shap­ing a few boards in his garage and I said that I didn’t think I would ever be able to shape but that I’d be will­ing to learn to glass just so we can keep mak­ing boards for our­selves. I then went over to Terry Martin’s house once a week to learn how to shape bet­ ter, more con­sis­tent boards. From Terry, I started shap­ing for Rob­bie Kegel for a few years and had the oppor­tu­nity to travel to Japan, Aus­tralia, the East Coast, and Hawaii. And that’s when I real­ized where I wanted to take my shapes. That’s really tough because I have great mem­o­ries and expe­ri­ences from all over. I would have to nar­row it down to Japan and Europe. Japan, because it was an absolute cul­ture shock. It truly amazed me every­day, the food was spec­tac­u­lar, the hos­pi­tal­ity was unbe­liev­able, it was like a whole new world to me, and run­ ning around Rop­pongi club cen­tral all night blows any spot in the US away! Also Europe in the early sum­mer really is one of my favorite parts of the world. Specif­ i­ cally the Basque Coun­ try, the big­ ger open waves really suit my style of surf­ing, the food and style of liv­ing and mov­ing around really attracts me as well as how rad all the towns look and his­tory behind them. The list of peo­ ple and things that inspire me is end­less. As far as surf­ing goes, pretty much my total inspi­ra­tion is Bob McTavish, Nat Young, Wayne Lynch, and Ted Spencer. The way they changed surf­ing and board design for­ever. Mark Andreini and Kirk Put­nam because we got to talk boards in my booth at Sacred

XXXVIII // 38

Craft. Michael Peter­ son and cur­ rently Joel Tudor because with­out him going for it and push­ing long board­ing, I wouldn’t be shap­ing boards today. Out­side of surf­ ing, a few key indi­vid­u­als who have an open mind and have worked really hard to make some­thing out of nothing. Tough ques­tion. I would have to say that most impor­tant thing I’ve learned is that you can truly be and do any­thing you want in your life, as long as you’re really will­ing to work your hard­est and be pushed to your limit of almost failure. Yeah, I have some things in my per­sonal life and sit­u­a­tions I wish that I would’ve han­dled dif­fer­ently but I wouldn’t change them, because my mis­takes have made me into the per­son I am today and I’m proud of what kind of per­son I’m becoming. Com­ing from just another kid out in the water to be able to break out and con­ tinue to carve a niche for myself. 
Surf­i ng holds com­plete relief and enjoy­ ment for me. I’m thank­ful I’m so close to surf­ing but at the same time there’s no pres­sure on me – its not my job, there’s no peo­ple to impress or pho­tog­ra­phers I need to show off for. I only need to pad­ dle out and to have fun and wash the day off. Surf­ing has also changed my life in almost every way, right down to the core. With­out surf­ing, I guess I would be liv­ ing in a dorm, going to col­lege, wor­ry­ing about what I’m going to do when I get to the real world, like so many of my peers. I’m thank­ful for every­thing I’ve been able to expe­ri­ence due to surf­ing and all the places across the world I’ve seen. It’s pretty sim­ple: shap­ing, surf­ing, and the com­mu­nity within it. Jeff McCal­lum, Joel Tudor, Matt Cho­j­ naki, and Dave Allee. My favorite board right now is this 9’0” Cali 66 pin­tail. It’s really foiled, the vee just right, and it trims out and hits the lip just right. My favorite spot is Cal­i­for­nia on a nice sum­mer day with all my friends and a good south swell going left at Four Doors (San O). I also really love Low­ers, Cotes de Basques Biar­ritz, and the Pass Byron Bay is just magical. I do, I just can’t remember where it is right now. It’s either in my Dads shop or

GET

DIRT Y


GET

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in my storage unit. I’ll have to go check now that I think about it. But I defiantly have it, It’s a 5’11” Single fin egg. Sort of, it was suppose to be an egg but I did everything from start to finish. I shaped my first board in 200-2001 somewhere around there. When I was working for Chris Christenson I started surfing pretty late in life, and right away wanted to shape. I just didn’t have access to a shop or really know anyone who shaped. I had a lot of ideas but couldn’t find anyone who wanted to make them, and if they did it would take months, so by the time it showed up I was already thinking about something else. I’ve never really had an official team rider, but Ryan Bracker was one of the first local guys to get on one of my boards and help spread the word. I’ve made boards for Joel Tudor, Harrison Roach, Dane Peterson, Mitch Abshere, Tony Alva and some other of local pros. I still like the traditional Polyurethane foam and Polyester resin. In my eyes there has yet to be a better alternative. People have been trying for years to come up with the next best thing, but it hasn’t happened yet. Like any thing there’s positives and negatives, but the polyurethane’s positives qualities far outweigh any of the others. As far as performance, and finish product. Guns are my favorite both for what they’re going to be put in and how they look aesthetically. I’ve been working with Joel Tudor the last couple of years on some of his Pipe boards and those have been really fun. This year we made a square tail, square nose, cut away twin fin he rode out there. I’m yet to see any pictures but I’m told all his pipe boards are going be twins now. He was amped on it. Early last year I made Jojo a 8’2 for Puerto, I’m looking forward to hearing how that goes down there too. My most popular model has probably been my eggs. They just work really well in San Diego’s waves. They paddle really well and slide through flat sections for the slower days, but still work insane

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on the punchier faster waves. They are essentially a fish with a little more curve, which really loosens them up. Chris Christenson was a really big influence on me especially in the beginning. Greenough is huge and of course Simmons. To me the surf industry is pretty much a joke. I try and stay as far away from it as I can. There are very few companies that represent surfing as I see it or as anyone I know see’s it. But there are a few great companies that have been really supportive of me and other people who do what I do. A couple great examples are Matuse wetsuits, and Brixton manufacturing company. Both of them have been super supportive and to me represent surfing the way I see it.

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That’s a tough one, if I could only own and ride one surfboard would be different than if I could own any surfboard. To own any one surfboard I’d pick either an original Greenough Spoon, or a Gerry Lopez personal. Now if I had to pick only one board to own and ride, I’d have to think about it and it would depend on where I lived. But currently in San Diego I’d either have a 7’0-7’6” 70’s style pintail but a quad. Or a 5’10” quad fin Egg. I’d defiantly get more use out of the egg. But would be way to bummed those days when I’d need a 7’ pintail. What board would you shape and ride, personally, for these spots?

Hopefully some day. A model called a Poindexter. Puerto Escondido - 8’0” Pintail Quad Hopefully this summer. A ODB Trestles – 5’8” Cut Away Twin Fin Diamond Tail it’s a model of mine called a purple stuff Sunset Beach - I don’t go Right.

Cloudbreak - 6’6” Pintail Quad, I would love to surf this place when it gets perfect.

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Making shirts and shaping boards has never been so fun. photo : Aaron Harriss

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screen printing photo : Austin Marvin

MLMC t-shirt design one photo : Austin Marvin

Check out the hand made screen Photo : Austin Marvin 43 \\ XLIII


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PLEASURE

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ometimes we can get so wrapped up with perfection and expectations that we lose perspective. Things take on a twisted significance, and what was once fun becomes stressful and nearly unenjoyable. Surfing can become something other than a carefree way to pass long, hot, summer afternoons. For myself, I began to get jaded. It’s only been a few years since I started surfing and already I’m passing on days where the waves are just so-so, insisting on perfect conditions like the scant few days that stand out in my mind when I think of the perfect session. I noticed this when I headed down to my local break-the place I learned to surf years agojust to lie in the sun and enjoy the warm, clear blue water. The waves were nearly non-existent, perfect lake Atlantic conditions. Occasionally a 1.5 foot wave would break maybe 10 feet from the sand-just enough to maybe get something resembling a ride before you had to jump off or break your fins in the sand. I took my 6’ shortboard from the car and put it next to my towel. I took out my sandwich and my mp3 player and relaxed, waiting for the tide to drop just a little bit. Finally, when I only had maybe 45 minutes to surf before work, I saw a little boy paddling out with his board. He was the only other surfer attempting to ride the tiny shorebreak, and already I was getting antsy, preparing to have to fight with him for the measly waves, muttering to myself about stupid kids and crowds and all that. My mood was deteriorating rapidly. I decided that if I was going to paddle out it would have to be now or never, or I’d be late for work. So I slowly took out my board, attached the leash, and paddled out. The water was so warm, thanks to the stagnant weather pattern and the long, sunny, waveless days with no wind. It’s rare that I get to comfortably surf around here with no wetsuit, but on this day that is what I was able to do. It was a unique and free feeling that I don’t get to experience very often. It felt pure and unrestrained, not to mention a little slippery thanks to the bit of sunblock I was wearing.

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I was looking out to the horizon when the kid paddled behind me. I looked over and he grinned. “Sorry if I got in your way before,” he said. That was odd. He hadn’t been in my way at all. “Oh, don’t worry about it,” I replied with a wave of my hand, “You weren’t in my way. I’m just messing around out here anyway.” I went on to exchange a bit of conversation with him. Normally this is not something I’d do…kids are punks. They’re annoying. They get in the way. Unfortunately, I guess I’d just been exposed to all the wrong kids. This 12 year old grom was all smiles and stoke. He or I would paddle for a tiny ripple and miss it, and he’d wrinkle up his face with a grin and hold out his forefinger and thumb. “This close!” He went on to try to give me some advice after I told him that I was used to riding a much bigger board. He told me about paddling so that your hands come under the board, just like when you swim laps in a pool. He mentioned that my weight might be too much on my back foot, and then when I mentioned that I thought my problem was that I stop paddling too soon he was impressed. “Most people don’t notice that themselves.” For a kid, he was pretty darn intelligent, and his excitement was infectious. He caught a tiny little wave, and as he was paddling back out he shouted over “Barrrreled!” Now, I don’t think he got barreled, but it was enough for him to get excited. During a lull I did a little popup on my board and managed to stand on it for a few seconds before it squirted out from under my feet. “Whoa, were you standing on it?” he called over. “Yeah, I was up for a second!” It’s excitement over the little things that make life fun. After loosening up and chatting with him, I began to relax. My mood began to lift. I decided that I wanted to see the world more like he did-the way I saw the world before I began to get so jaded with everything. After all, what’s more childlike than playing in the waves? He didn’t have a care in the world, and I wanted so much to feel like that again. I’m determined now to go back to the beginning…when surfing was new and exciting, and merely catching the tiniest wave was monumentally fun. I haven’t even been at the sport very long, and yet my perfectionism and drive for success has tainted the experience. I think sometimes we get so serious about surfing and being a “real surfer,” and “hard core,” or other such nonsense that we lose sight of the entire point of surfing: being outside, enjoying the ocean and waves. I want to enjoy even the smallest conditions… to enjoy the fact that I am so blessed to be able to even surf at all. To paddle out even if it’s

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flat, and just have fun messing around on my surfboard-duckdiving in flat water and trying to stand on the board with no wave. After he left I managed to catch a tiny little right, sending the nearby swimmers scattering for their life. That little wave left me stoked for the rest of the night, getting me through my long work shift. Just that little wave, but that was all I needed at that point. I have a lot of thanks for the grom who helped me enjoy it.


LIFE

I HAVE ALWAYS BEEN interested in things that have a of their ow n.

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MLMC FLOW is key to rhythm. photo : Aaron Harriss

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LIFE


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MY LIFE

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PASSION

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or pleasure, yes. A break from the ordinary, yes. But as with many things of serious value, there is more -- an extra dimension that is the source of its power. The photographer’s act is “representation.� Revealing and documenting something seen, but not previously known in that way. This awakened vision comes from absorbing context and surroundings, through links, comparisons and juxtapositions -- perhaps dramatizing what is missing or misaligned. Who are these people and what are their stories? I believe that passion to express oneself is the most important human need. We express ourselves by chatting to friends or family, messaging and e-mailing. But, myself as a teenage girl who dreams of being an artist. I live with the passion of art. Like an aurora borealis, which shows puzzled colors, I could also express my puzzled feelings with my passion. I was passionate about colors, imagination and emotional expression rather than chatting, messaging nor e-mailing. I believe sentiments can bring either illness to people or vitamins that make people energetic. If people do not share feelings and just hope others to notice without a word, others will never notice and people will get depressed. On the other hand, if people share feelings with others, everybody will be sanguine like they had taken vitamins. However, I had to express myself, as I was alone in a different country, where everything was different from my home. Nevertheless, wherever I was, I had passion to express my thoughts. My emotions on the canvas were a colorful tornado. The tornado was just about to suck up everything in the world but the target was in maze. The tornado included my happiness, sadness, loneliness and my belief for passion. Expressing my emotions, it has changed me as being mature, independen, and optimistic. However, LVI // 56

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sometimes, I looked around streets and tried to find a cozy place that I can be alone to think by myself. In Edinburgh, where the history of Britain still exists from the architecture, there was a place with the smell of turpentine which is a liquid used for cleaning oil paints. I went into the place with curiosity and sneaked in like a cat. It was an art studio with a few artists. They were busy painting their canvas. I thought I was not the only person who expresses emotions differently. Everybody has their own way. When I expressed myself on a canvas, I was in a dream world, a place which is full of flowers and animals which usually appears in animations. I believe in people’s heart there is a washing machine that spins feelings and tries to hide from others, but it is better to stop the machine and share the emotions. I believe that having passion to express oneself makes humans alive. God created livings things to share expressions. Lust has a tremendous power that can change and satisfy humans. I believe without fervor to express, the world will be full of grey clouds covering happiness.

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MEET

LOLA CO-OWNER OF MLMC

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FAMILY

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hat exactly makes up a strong family that possess good family values? A strong family units a safe, positive and supportive place for all members to thrive. They are able to utilise resources and to live together in a fairly healthy manners. Family is more than a place where we eat and sleep; it is the place where we learn what matters the most. If all we do in families is manage groceries and sleeping space, we have missed the great opportunities to teach great lessons above being humans. The most important way to teach value is lead by example. The adults in the family set the tone. They reach out with friends and community and teach their children the importance of doing the same and that becomes a part of who the children are. Do we teach kindness by the way we treat each other in the family? Do we teach service by the way we reach out to people around us? Children always learn by example. Besides, some important family values are family cohesion. Family cohesion would be defined as the feeling of being loved, of belonging to the group and being nurtured. Although closeness is good in family unit, there must be a balance between being together and being separate. A person must be able to develop their individuality, while being supported and confident The time we have on this earth is precious. We all should cherish the one we have. There is no one more important to me than my family.

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CO U N T TH E O D D S A SHORT I N S I DE T O T HE M AK IN G O F TAYLO R STE E LE ’ S N E W F E ATUR E FI L M Count the Odds // clockwise // Taylor Steele // photo : Sybil Steele

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Steele filming on location // Nowhere // photo : Myers

Taylor Steele is an award-winning director/producer who has dominated the surf film industry for over a decade.

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is films under the Poor Specimen label kick-started the careers of some of surfing’s biggest names. With the early 90’s release of Momentum and Momentum II, Taylor introduced the world to a new crop of surfers including Kelly Slater, Rob Machado, Shane Dorian, and others who collectively became known as “The Momentum Generation.” In the following years he produced a string of more than fifteen hit

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movies such as Focus, Good Times, Drifting, Loose Change, Shelter, and Drive Thru series, as well as Campaign 1 and Campaign 2. He has collaborated with surf filmmakers such as Chris and Emmett Malloy, Jack Johnson, and Greg Browning. His award-winning films have become the industry standard. In 1997 The Show won Surfer Poll Award for Best Movie and in 2000 Loose Change won the ASL Readers Choice Award. In 2002 alone, Taylor and Chris Malloy won X-Dance awards for Best Film, Best Cinematography STEELE

and Best Editing for their movie Shelter. That same year, his Poor Specimen produced film Hallowed Ground was named ESPN’s Action Sports Movie of the Year. In 2007 Sipping Jetstreams won the X-Dance award for Best Cinematography and garnered a nomination for Best Director. The mild mannered Steele was recently voted one of Surfer Magazine’s “25 Most Powerful People” and one of Waves Magazine’s “Top Ten Most Important People In Surfing.” Today Taylor continues to push the envelope of creativity, and with the advent of Sipping Jetstreams, FILM

he has introduced his vast audience to an entirely new lens through which to view the lifestyle they are so passionate about. Taylor splits his time between California and Bali with his wife Sybil and daughters Jaiden and Milla.


Steele’s top movie collection // This Time Tomorrow // Sipping Sahara // Innersection

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CO U N T TH E O D D S

FEATURING DION AGUS

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DANE REYNOLDS x

JOHN FLORENCE x

CHIPPA WILSON JORDY SMITH

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KALOHE ANDINO x

JULIAN WILSON JOEL PARKINSON

ROB MACHADO

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CLAY MARZO MICK FANNING

CRAIG ANDERSON

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