DRINK
A Napa favorite
In praise of the Neal Family wines
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SEACOAST SCENE | SEPTEMBER 19 - 25, 2019 | PAGE 24
This week’s column is about two of my favorites: Neal Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon and Neal Family Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc. To understand and fully appreciate these wines, you must understand where they come from — a long and rich history of vineyard management and a full, intense involvement in the production of superlative wines. Neal Family Vineyards is the product of three generations residing and farming in Napa Valley, California, a valley that is world-renowned for its wines. Mark Neal and the Neal Family history are firmly embedded in its soil. Mark Neal is a longtime friend who I met on 2003 when he made a trip to Massachusetts. We hit it off immediately, as my parents were vegetable farmers; we had so much in common. During some of New Hampshire’s annual Wine Week celebrations, I’ve had parties for Neal and other California wine makers I’ve gotten to know. Mark Neal is the son of Jack and Athene Neal. In 1968, Jack Neal formed a vineyard management company in Rutherford, in the heart of Napa Valley. His goal was to provide top-quality farming and vineyard management throughout Napa County. Mark has told me that his fondest memories are of his working side by side with his father suckering, tying and planting vines. The company, Jack Neal & Son, Inc., has grown to become one of the largest service providers in Northern California. In 1994 Mark became the owner and manager of Jack Neal & Son. The company has taken a leading role in the application of biodynamic, organic and sustainable farming practices, and 90 percent of the acreage it manages is in compliance with CCOF (California Certified Organic Farmers) environmentally conscious organization regulations. In 2001 Mark saw the culmination of a dream come true. Neal Family Vineyards completed the construction of a winery on his new home estate high atop Howell Mountain, a product of love, labor, and a commitment to his family business and passion. The winery took nearly three years to complete and Mark oversaw every aspect of the design. It is constructed into the side of the mountain, with barrel aging caves carved horizontally into the hillside. Neal Family Vineyards was created with the intention of producing only the best wines in the Napa Valley. Neal Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, originally priced at $55.99, is currently on sale at $30.99. This wine is classically produced by blending grapes from St. Helena, Howell Mountain and Rutherford on the valley floor. In each vintage, specific characteristics unique to the sites are repeated annually, while each growing season, from year to year, imparts identity with subtle to dramatic differences.
Courtesy photos.
A great way to experience these differences is to experience a vertical tasting of these wines — that is, open bottles from two or three or as many as six different years, and taste them in succession. The differences are astounding! The wine is aged for 20 months in 50 percent new French oak. This wine has a deep redpurple color and firm structure. Aromas include blackberry, cassis, cherry and vanilla. The taste and “feel to the mouth” is intense, but very velvety, with black cherry fruit, some cedar, with a hint of leather, to a complex and long finish. Decanting is recommended and will significantly enhance the enjoyment of this wine. Neal Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc, originally priced at $19.99, is currently on sale at $15.99. This wine is made from grapes grown in Rutherford and from the eastern foothills of Howell Mountain in Napa Valley. The grapes from the foothills impart more floral tropical notes to the classic sauvignon blanc character derived from the Rutherford vineyards. Whole cluster pressing, stainless steel fermentation and “sur lie” aging (allowing the wine to sit on the yeast and grape particles created by fermentation) give this wine a very slight yeasty nuance. Classic sauvignon aromatics and flavors of lemon and lime are augmented by the fruit flavors of pear and a bit of pineapple, with some minerality that gives the wine a bright and lively feel to the mouth and finish. The “sur lie” aging imparts a creamy texture not found in other sauvignon blancs. This wine is best served chilled, but not too cold to experience its best aromas and flavors. These wines can only be described as singularly spectacular. This sale is a generous invitation to enjoy these two wholly organically grown wines that are handmade to very high standards. Accept the invitation, and pick up a bottle (or more) of each and enjoy them! Fred Matuszewski is a local architect and a foodie and wine geek, interested in the cultivation of the multiple strains and varieties of grapes and the industry of wine production and sales. Chief among his travels is an annual trip to the wine producing areas of California.