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Quarterly magazine of the Society of Dyers and Colourists

Issue 3 / 2011

Printing SDC India: Conference Review Day of Celebration

www.sdc.org.uk


welcome

From the top This issue of The Colourist is published at the time of an important punctuation mark for the SDC. Although Susie Hargreaves has only been with the Society as Chief Executive for a short time, the changes over that short peri pe riod od m ake ak e it o ne of the most significant periods in period make one our history. As a necessary reaction to the demands of the 2006 Charities Act, the system of Governance in the Society was changed in very fundamental ways. Under significant guidance from the Charity Commission and from a consultant, the Governance Committee proposed changes to the By-Laws which were approved by the Privy Council (necessary due to our Royal Charter) and at the Society’s AGM of 2009. We owe a particular debt to all the members of this committee and in particular Alf King, Peter Duffield and my predecessor, Adrian Abel. These changes have made a fundamental change in the nature and degree of responsibility of the Trustee Board. Over the last three years, under expert leadership from our Chief Executive, we have been able to use the new emphasis on the charitable activity, which is demanded of us, in a very constructive way and as a result we have a much clearer focus than has been the case for many years. In fact, many of the roads we have taken in the last three years were, in general terms, proposed by various working parties set up by Peter Diggle when he was President and in particular we have seen a massive expansion of our international activity, greatly increased use of modern communication and information technology and a determined effort to build on the work of Chris Sargeant in establishing closer links with the world of fashion, retail and brands. I have been particularly interested in our work overseas as the Trustee with responsibility for Global Development and we have seen huge strides in effectively working with members in Hong Kong, India, Pakistan and Bangladesh with new initiatives now in place for collaboration in Thailand and in China. Of course we also still have our long established allies in South Africa and Australasia. Our first Adastra projects have been successfully carried out in El Salvador, India and the UK. We really can now claim to be a truly global organisation with, for the first time, a President who is not British. Susie helped us produce our first ever proper Business Plan, with special emphasis on marketing and we can see outstanding progress towards the goals set out in that plan. We have now begun to proactively address the problems of owning a building which is declining in value, is unsaleable and represents a potential liability in future years as it

becomes more and more dilapidated. Perkin House was last valued several years ago and, were it to be revalued now, it would clearly create a major reduction in the Balance Sheet value of the Society. It is easy to try to ignore these things but we have a duty as a charity to ensure that we maximise the funds available for charitable activity and as such we have a responsibility to investigate potential solutions to what will surely become a bigger problem as the years go by unless we act soon. In fact, this is representative of where we are as a Society and the opportunity we have. Unlike most similar sized professional associations with charitable status we are for the moment financially sound. Although we were losing money at a frightening rate we seem to have stabilised the situation and have more or less broken even for the last two years. However, the future will be very difficult unless we use our financial strength to create new opportunities. We, the current membership of the SDC, have the exciting possibility of developing the Society in a positive way along the route we have been following for the last three years. This is a far cry from the situation only a handful of years ago when we were wondering if we might not survive more than five or ten years. Arthur Welham Chair of SDC Trustees

Front cover image: Beau Lotto speaking at SDC’s Day of Celebration 2011 Cover image credit: Dean Smith © Society of Dyers and Colourists 2010 PO Box 244 / Perkin House / 82 Grattan Road Bradford / BD1 2JB / UK Tel: +44 (0)1274 725138 Fax: +44(0)1274 392888 www.sdc.org.uk

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To contact the editor Tracy Cochrane, email: tracyc@sdc.org.uk

Issue 3 | 2011

Design & print: The Ark Design & Print Ltd T: 0113 256 8712 www.thearkdesign.co.uk To discuss advertising opportunities within The Colourist please call Mick Tonks on +44(0)113 256 8712 or email: mick@thearkdesign.co.uk

Meet the Board

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Printing Special

4-8

News Update

9

New Frontiers

10–11

Day of Celebration 12–13 International Update

14

Diary Dates

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At our recent AGM we formally welcomed a number of new trustees, following official ratification. We’d like to introduce you to the new trustees and tell you a little more about them: Peter Crews – trustee with responsibility for industry and business. Peter has worked in the dyeing and finishing industry and been a member of SDC for 40 years. He is currently employed by one of the world’s largest garment manufacturers and his main role is ensuring that dyehouses globally are providing the right quality at the right price by offering technical advice and support. Peter has developed dyehouses in the UK, Eastern Europe, Bangladesh and he is currently advising on the building of one in Sri Lanka. He has a wide understanding of what is happening in the Far East which he believes must be the focus for SDC in the future.

Derek McKelvey – Derek has 40 years experience in textiles globally. He is currently a consultant with world leading chemical suppliers, dyers and retailers. He has served on various SDC committees and is an ex-SDC trustee. He plans to focus his energies on ensuring SDC’s operations and activities are relevant to today’s global industries and educational needs, to ensure long term survival.

Sue Williams – trustee with responsibility for membership. Sue has run her own business for nine years. She has been a memb me mber er o SDC C fo forr ov ove er 25 years and in member off SD over that time has been awarded a Gold Medal for achievement in Colour Measurement and she was President of the Society from 2008-09. Sue is currently a member of the CMC committee as well as an active member of the London region. She was the product champion for the successful Colour Management Diploma courses. Sue is passionate about education and training, the core of the Society’s work as an educational charity.

Stuart Wilkinson – trustee with responsibility for marketing. Stuart is an SDC Fellow, holder of Silver and Bron e med Br edal als and dam Bronze medals member of the Audit and Finance Committees and Colour Index Editorial Board. Stuart has a wealth of experience in the coloration industry, both in dyehouses and at a dyestuff manufacturer, and is currently responsible for regulatory affairs at an international coloration supply company. Stuart has experience in areas of non-textile coloration and understands the operational side of the Society through his work on several committees, and he also has wide experience in international operations.

Jane Jiang – Jane has been co-opted on to the board. With a PhD in textile chemistry, she has been engaged in the textile and chemistry industry for over 2 5 ye year arss wi with th a ffocus o over 25 years on textile and footwear materials manufacture, product performance characterisation, testing technologies and test standards drafting. Jane is an SDC appointed tutor, a member of SDC’s technical committee, a member of the China textile and environment committee, an accredited auditor by the China National Accreditation Service for Conformity Assessment, a certified ISO 14000 lead auditor, and specially appointed supervisor for postgraduate students of Donghua University.

Bryan Hirst – We also welcomed Bryan as our new Honorary Secretary. Bryan joined the dyeing industry 955 95 5 H e was as as asso soci ci in 1 1955. He associated with the Brook Dyeing Group of Companies for nearly 50 years, with roles including Branch Management, Sales Director, and he was also in charge of the purchase of dyes and chemicals. He was awarded the SDC silver medal in 2008 and he became Honorary Secretary of the North of England region in the UK in 2003.

meet the board

Meet the Board

Here’s a reminder of our existing trustees and their areas of responsibility: ■ ■ ■ ■

■ ■

Sue Bolton – Technical John Easton – Publications Rakesh Sachdev – Co-optee Chris Sargeant (Vice Chair) – Fashion and Design Roger Wardman – Education Arthur Welham (Chair) – Global Development Peter Flesher – Honorary Treasurer

Welcome to all the new trustees. At the first meeting of the new board, Arthur Welham was elected as the new Chair of the board, and Chris Sargeant was elected Vice Chair.

CEO update Recruitment is underway for SDC’s new CEO. We hope to appoint shortly and will keep you posted.

Issue 3 | 2011

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printing

The Textile Printing Industry Changing the Future Market Dynamics with Digital Textile Printing? by Dr John Provost, Digital Textile Printing Consultant and Technical Editor of Digital Textile magazine The current market for traditional textile printing is in the region of 28 billion square metres and after the global recession in 2008 -2009, the textile printing market is now back on a positive growth track of ~2.5 % per year. Forecasts of between 30-32 billion square metres of textile prints by 2015 are now quite realistic (1). As most people know, the market dynamics have changed dramatically in the last 10 years and it is difficult to keep up with the speed of the movement of traditional textile printing to the Far East markets, with the textile power-house of China, printing now 30% of all world textile prints, followed by India with approximately 17.5% (Figure 1). Digital textile printing has long been a goal of the textile printing industry for over 40 years and although the first commercial digital textile system was actually launched as long ago as 1991 at ITMA in Hanover, the market penetration of digital textile printing into the traditional textile printing industry is still relatively small. The best estimates put the digital textile printing market at 250 million square metres (approaching 1% of the traditional print market) with annual growth rates of 20% per year. These appear significant growth figures, but to put it in perspective, if this growth rate was sustained over the next 5 years, the digital

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Americas 12.9%

China 30.0% Europe Russia. CIS 11.1%

India 17.5%

M-East/Africa 9.7%

Other Asia 18.8%

Figure 1 – Traditional Textile printing global Market Share (Total 28 Billion Square Metres)

textile printing market would be in the order of 500 million square metres, although a sizable figure in its own right, it only doubles the current market share of digital textile printing of traditional textile printing to ~ 2%. To make significant inroads into traditional printing and to achieve realistic market penetration, there will have to be considerable changes to the global textile printing value chain. The digital textile market has also evolved over the last few years, into a wide range of new textile printing applications (2). Figure 2 gives the latest view of the digital textile printing market segmentation, with new markets in polyester Sphene digital textile printer. Image supplied by Stork Prints “grand format” signage Issue 3 | 2011

printing aimed at replacing vinyl signage, and DTG (Direct to Garment Printing), which are bringing increasing revenues for these new segments of the digital textile industry (print machinery manufacturers, ink makers and the end users). The DTG market (“direct to garment” digital printing), introduced in 2003 has now evolved into a significant industry, recent estimates of 20,000 of these types of machines operating in the USA have been made, equating to a textile pigment ink consumption of upwards 200,000 litres of ink/year and again, growing at double digit annual rates. The traditional textile printing industry is renowned for its conservative nature, there are many reasons for this and it would take volumes to explain them. However, one of the reasons is the textile printer is only a small part of the whole textile value chain and generally acts as a commission printer, with very little influence on the value


Traditional Industries

Carpets/Tiles/ etss/Til et / / Mats

New Textile Markets

Home H Hom om Furnishing

Apparel

Flag/Banner

New Textile Markets

Sportswearwea ear FFootball tb ll shirts etc

NEW W Si S Signage g Polyester

Garment G en nt T T-Shirt Shi t Printers

Consumer C mer er D Desktop/ Novelties

Figure 2 Digital Textile Printing Industries – Market Segmentation

chain. The traditional textile printer has always been the focus of continuous downward price pressure from their customers (which could range from retail organisations, brand owners to sourcing and trading companies). Although all parts of the textile value are looking for supply chain optimisation and “speed to market”, the wider acceptance or integration of digital textile printing into bulk production is still relatively small. The use of digital textile printing in many cases, in the traditional textile print market, is still very much confined to sample print acceptance, “coupon” printing of textile prints for sales purposes and small volume-high value production runs.

Strengths of Digital Textile Printing ■

Print design and colour way flexibility Lower water, lower emissions and energy usage Lower labour costs and overall much more economic for production of “short run” prints - exact costs depend on specific market No screen manufacturer, storage or disposal costs Integration of printing and “making up” (garment manufacture) could be possible

Table 1 gives an overview of the strengths and weaknesses of digital textile printing, some of the weaknesses are the often quoted reasons for the lack of real acceptance by the traditional textile printer for digital textile printing. Generally, the advantages of no screens, lower effluent, lower emissions, low water usage and the design flexibility are readily acknowledged by the traditional textile printer. On the negative side, the two major weaknesses quoted by textile printers are the high cost of inks and the slow production speeds of digital textile printing. The high cost of digital textile ink, in the early stages of any new technology introduction, is down

Weaknesses of Digital Textile Printing ■

Production speeds compared to conventional printing Higher ink prices/square metre compared to traditional textile printing costs Higher costs for medium to long run lengths (exact costs are country dependent) Correct choice of digital technology and ink partner is still not clear-cut Increased and new “knowledge and skills” required

Table 1 – Strengths and Weaknesses of Digital Textile Printing - Traditional Textile Printing Market View

to the high investment required for ink development and the high manufacturing cost of digital textile inks in small volumes. If the market for digital textile inks increased significantly, then the manufacturing costs and end user price would decrease, and in all probability, decrease to an acceptable ink cost/square metre. The cost situation would also benefit from the inevitable increase in the number of ink suppliers, which would further put price pressure on the inks. However, that is in the future, as we are now in the classic “chicken and egg” situation, where digital textile printing needs to penetrate into the traditional print industry at a far higher rate, for the ink volumes to increase. The second objection often raised by the traditional printers, is the low production speeds as judged by overall low production rates per hour. This is seen as the most important area by the traditional printer and is, in my opinion, the number one “stumbling block” to the future growth of digital printing into the traditional printing industry. This is the area of greatest challenge to the digital textile machine manufacturer; to increase overall textile printing production speed rates per hour. To increase production rates we must develop digital textile printing machines with increased number of nozzles in a print head or increase the number of print heads in a digital textile machine. However, the development of digital textile printing machines is complicated, particularly integrating the print heads and developing the ink feed systems. There was a very distinct trend to the introduction to new digital textile machines at the FESPA 2011 in Hamburg, using the latest generation of print heads such as the Kyocera KJ4B, now used on the MS-JPK series, MS Rio, Reggiani ReNOIR EVO, and the Stork Sphene (Figure 4). Other print heads used in higher production textile machines include the Seiko Infotech (SII) SPT-508 head used on the Zimmer Colaris, Hollander ColorBooster and the D-Gen Artrix machine and the Ricoh Gen 4 head in the new Mimaki TX400 and the Durst Kappa machine (to be introduced at ITMA Barcelona in September). All these machines are targeting Issue 3 | 2011

printing

Textiles Ink Jet Market

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printing

increasing production rates per hour from a single machine to speeds approaching production performance of automatic flat screen printing machines, ie in the order of 300-400 square metres and upwards, depending on the specific machine configuration, number of print heads, print resolution and number of passes of the print head. With the introduction of these newer machines and the inevitable high machine price (in the many high hundreds of thousands of Euros per machine) which is associated with using these new print heads, it leaves the traditional printer now considering going digital with difficult choices, of which machine is right for his requirements, and whether the full range digital textile inks will be available for his fabric mix. However, there could be an alternative approach to the current introduction of Production Substitution digital textile printing machines, and that could be a Mass Machine approach, where many smaller

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production and industrially reliable digital textile machines could produce the same total production per hour at a total digital textile machine cost in the same region as one larger digital machine, a concept which is being used in many factories in the Far East, particularly in China. Mass customisation is a concept first introduced in the “ground breaking” book (1) by Stan Davis in 1987, with many of the concepts refined in a later book by Joe Pine (2) in 1993. There have been many definitions of mass customisation, however Pines’ refers to the goal of mass customisation to be “to provide enough variety so that the wants of the consumer are satisfied, whereas the goal of mass production is to produce at sufficiently low cost that everyone could have one”, which perfectly sums up what digital textile printing can provide both the retail chain and the end user. However, the majority of small production machines being used today are modifications of graphic wide format machines and have not been built with extended and continuous 24 hour use in mind. For the mass machine concept to really

work on a wider scale as an alternative to the larger single digital textile machine approach (production substitution), more industrial and reliable engineered digital textile printing machines (with production capabilities in the order of 30 -50 square metre/hour) would have to be developed. It will be interesting to see if the Far East machinery manufacturers develop such machines for the quickly developing multi-machine type factories using the mass machine approach. In conclusion, the key to really massive growth in digital textile printing is to convert more of the traditional textile printing production to digital printing. This is easier said than done, as it will take new business models, new types of machines and a more radical approach to textile print production to make digital technology the future “mainstream” printing technology in the traditional textile print industry.

References ■

J R Provost, Digital Textile, Issue 5, 2010 , p8-11 J R Provost, Digital Textile, Issue 4, 2010, p25-27 S Davis, “Future Perfect” 10th Anniversary Edition, 1997, Addison-Wesley, MA, USA J Pine, “Mass Customisation: The New Frontier in Business Competition”, Harvard Business School Press, USA, 1993

Want to know more? SDC has an e-book available entitled Textile Ink Jet Printing, edited by T L Dawson and B Glover. Priced at £15.00 it is available to purchase through SDC’s shop (www.sdc.org.uk)


By Tom Abbey, Managing Director of Magna Colours (www.magnacolours.com) Plastisol is used as ink for screenprinting on to textiles. Plastisols were once the most commonly used inks for printing designs on to garments, and were particularly useful for printing opaque graphics on dark fabrics. Plastisol inks are not water-soluble. The ink is composed of PVC particles suspended in a plasticizing emulsion, and the major benefit of this is that the plastisol ink will not dry if left in the screen for extended periods. Plastisol inks will not dry, but must be cured. Most plastisols need to reach a temperature of about 180 degrees celsius (350 Fahrenheit) for full curing.

What are the advantages? Plastisols have been traditionally known as the easiest ink system as they have some major advantages in production but disadvantages to the finished product. The products are very easy to use due to the ink never drying in the screen; they can be printed on most types of garments and printed on dark to light fabrics if a white under base is used. The inks, once used, can be stored for reuse without deteriorating, thereby reducing waste. The house keeping that is needed is minimal as lids and containers can be left open.

What are the disadvantages? Plastisols, however, do have some disadvantages. They rely on the thermoplastic nature of curing and have to create a solid ink film to achieve wash fastness. The darker the garment the thicker the ink film must be and this causes the handle or feel of the garment to become harsh which is a disadvantage to the consumer. Garments cannot be ironed as the film will melt under the heat, smudging the design. Cleaning screens and squeegees after using plastisol requires solvents. Many environmental issues have recently been raised with regard to plastisol inks, due to the PVC content and type of plasticisers used. PVC is of concern as it is claimed to produce

harmful dioxins during production and disposal. Due to major concerns of their effect on human health, the EU banned the use of six of the main plasticisers used in the production of plastisol ink: DEHP – Di (2-ethylhexyl) phthalate, DBP – DiButyl Phthalate, BBP - Benzyl Butyl Phthalate, DINP Diisononyl phthalate, DIDP Diisononyl phthalate and DNOP Di N octyl phthalate Many major retailers have also adopted this policy and forbid the use of these plasticizers. It is also becoming increasingly common for retailers to ban the use of PVC containing inks. Nike, Puma, Adidas and H&M are some of the environmental leaders on the high street who have banned both PVC and Phthalates.

Water based solution Water based inks traditionally had the reverse advantages and disadvantages of plastisols. Water based inks use water as the medium to blend latex polymers that are cross linked due to the evaporation of the water and heat. As the water will evaporate the inks can dry in the screen and much better housekeeping is needed when using water based inks than when using plastisols , for instance to keep screens from blocking or to prevent the inks drying in the containers if lids are left off. As the inks need to dry the cross linking process takes much longer and so longer drying equipment is needed. The major advantage of water based inks is the very soft handle or feel of the garment once printed as the ink will penetrate into the garment.

The best use Both water based inks and plastisols

printing

An Overview of Plastisols

have found a place in the printing market. Plastisols were generally used in the printing of garments where print shops had less capital equipment and worse housekeeping and control. Water based inks were used on the rotary printing of fabric rolls achieving speeds of 60 metres a minute and total coverage was possible due to the soft feel.

New technology Plastisols have now developed alternatives to PVC using more environmentally friendly acrylic thermoplastic and more environmentally friendly plastisers. These inks tend to have harsher handle than traditional plastisols but still have the advantages of none drying. In practice however, they have been found to be much more difficult to use than traditional PVC based plastisols. Water based products have now been significantly improved to include formaldehyde free discharge printing, where the ground shade is “bleached” to allow a water based print on dark fabrics and high solids water based that give similar opacity to plastisols . The inks still contain water but the solids are much higher and the ink is designed to dry very slowly giving much better screen performance and usability. Issue 3 | 2011

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printing 8

Digital Print Investment at the University of Manchester Textiles and Paper at the University of Manchester has recently embarked on a major £1.4m investment programme for its research and teaching facilities which will result in the expansion of the existing Cotton Industry War Memorial Trust (CIWMT) Digital Print Centre into a larger purpose built facility. In addition further financial support from the CIWMT has led to the acquisition of the latest Mimaki TX400-1800 system which will be a catalyst in establishing a world leading activity coupling creative digital print and innovative ink development. The centre’s coordinator, Dr Muriel Rigout, said: “The centre will allow the next generation of digital printers to exploit the current print possibilities and establish Manchester as a global focus for future digital design technology. We will attract the best designers, provide state of the art training and support print practitioners. Linked to the printer investment is the acquisition of surface texturing equipment and more AVA CAD systems which will allow the design technologist to engineer both visual and textural effects”. Professor Chris Carr, Head of Textiles and Paper, added: “the overall investment was an indicator of the commitment of the University of Manchester to providing the best teaching and training experience and inspiring research innovation in textiles. As part of the School of Materials textiles is in a unique position to use the full ‘materials palette’ and genuinely link the aesthetic and technology interfaces. If the UK textiles industry is to thrive it is vital that the University of Manchester provides this type of strategic academic and commercial investment and leadership”.

Issue 3 | 2011

Dirty Laundry Greenpeace has published a new investigative report entitled ‘Dirty Laundry: Unravelling the corporate connections to toxic water pollution in China’. The report profiles the problem of toxic waste resulting from the release of hazardous chemicals by the textile industry in China, claiming the results are indicative of a much wider problem that is posing serious threats to both our ecosystems and to human health. The companies behind the facilities have relationships with a range of major brands and Greenpeace is calling on the brands to become ‘the champions for a post-toxic world’. SDC has been running events highlighting this very issue for many years (our conference earlier this year in Bangladesh is a good example). A key focus of our work is on ensuring that factories and dyehouses work efficiently and effectively within

very tight environmental constraints, whilst maximising productivity and profitability through education, training and knowledge transfer. Comments Andrew Filarowski: ‘this report provides a wake up call to all brands and retailers. The issue of safe and sustainable dyeing will now be a major focus for NGOs and the time has come to have robust systems of dyehouse accreditation in place and a transparent supply chain as already exists in the food sector. Education is at the heart of this issue’. We’d like to hear your views. You can contact Andrew Filarowski, Technical Director, by emailing andrewf@sdc.org.uk, or you can post a comment on the Members’ Forum on our website or on our Facebook page. The report can be downloaded from the Greenpeace website (www.greenpeace.org)


SDC Enterprises Ltd, the trading company established by SDC to sell colour fastness products globally, has recently celebrated the first 25 years of continuous production of their market leading SDC Multifibre DW test fabric. This pioneering multifibre test fabric has been an outstanding

success story for SDC Enterprises Ltd, which is recognised worldwide for its consistent production of quality products for colour fastness testing. The full version of this article can be downloaded from SDC’s website: www.sdc.org.uk.

CSI Colour Award We are delighted to announce the launch of the CSI Colour Award 2012, sponsored by Color Solutions International (www.colorsolutions international.com). If you are creative, imaginative and can use colour to create a unique trend card for fashion apparel, then this competition is for you! The winner will receive £500, the CSI Colour Award 2012 and a trip to the global grand final to be presented with their prize! The competition is open to undergraduate fashion and textile design students globally, and invites students to design a trend card for Spring/Summer 2013 using CSI Color Search (www.csicolorsearch.com). You can submit up to two A3 boards, one of which must include your colour theme with the CSI colour palette clearly

shown. You should also send a typewritten statement of up to 500 words (in English), describing your inspiration and colour themes. Trend cards can be submitted by post or email, with unlimited entries per college/university. For further information and to register your

news update

SDC Enterprises Celebrate 25 Years of SDC Multifibre DW Test Fabric Production

interest, visit the CSI Colour Award page on www.sdc.org.uk, visit our Facebook page or email marketing@sdc.org.uk

New website update: www.sdc.org.uk We are continuing to make progress on the implementation of our new website and IT system. We have been working recently on the transfer of Colour Index and will shortly be beta testing. A project of this scale takes many months to complete and inevitably has teething problems along the way. We’re aware that a number of you have experienced problems logging in to the members’ section of the site, and we apologise for this. Please bear with us as we continue to work through the problems and to add features and functionality – we are on track and we’ll keep you posted on progress. Your feedback on the new website is always welcome, please email ashleyh@sdc.org.uk

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new frontiers

New Frontiers in Coloration: Abhijit Naikdesai, General Manager of SDC India reviews their annual conference Roland Connelly (X-Rite)

The 8th International Annual Conference titled ‘New Frontiers in Coloration: Ushering Growth’ was held at The Club, Andheri, Mumbai on 3rd and 4th of June 2011. The conference was a success and exceeded expectations in virtually all that was desired from it. There were more than 300 delegates in total (192 on day one and over 120 on day two). The conference was inaugurated by the President of SDC M L Cheung.

The speakers were just great, with Prof Tony Ryan from University of Sheffield delivering the keynote lecture which had the delegates completely wowed and engrossed. Prof Ryan spoke on ‘Structural Colour’ and how this technology can be used to deliver colours with minimal impact to the environment. Prof Ryan’s keynote was followed by the congratulation of SDC medallists from India by the SDC President M L Cheung. Dr Sanjiv Kamat was awarded the Society’s Gold medal, S Periasamy the Silver medal and Sai Ganesh and Dr Ela Dedhia, the Bronze medals. The India winner of SDC’s International Design Competition – Amole Singh from the National Institute of Design was announced and congratulated along with the other two regional winners (Balajee CS from the South Region and Awani Gogri from the West Region). There were a sprinkling of speakers from India, UK, US, Switzerland, Germany, and Hong Kong. The first

Dr Kamat (president elect) receiving the gold medal from the president, ML Cheung

10 Issue 3 | 2011

session started with a talk on the recent developments in spectrophotometers by Roland Connelly from X-Rite. He took the audience on a time-travel, describing the oldest spectrophotometer and how it had undergone changes to meet the demands of today’s world. This was followed by an excellent lecture on camouflage printing by Ridha Najar from DyStar. Mr Najar made an extensive presentation on the adaptation of camouflage prints to natural surroundings in both the visible and the near-IR spectra. The session ended with a talk on sustainable textile pigment printing to meet the demands of the changing European market by Urs Kahle from CHT. Mr Kahle not only spoke about reducing the influence of formaldehyde in the process, but also described new chemistries like silicones in his talk. The next session started with Herman Klaver from the Fongs Group giving the audience an introduction to the process of aerodynamic dyeing and how it has many economic


Amole Singh and ML Cheung

A packed hall!

advantages over the hydraulic system. This was followed by Maryann Wong from Pantone describing the colour trends for the summer of 2012 with a presentation packed with images, helping the audience effectively visualize the colours. Dr Naresh Tyagi from Madura Garments spoke about the retailer’s perspective with reference to the coloration industry, including the ecological challenges for the brands as well. The day ended with a wellreceived lecture on the challenges faced by the dyers and retailers in the changing world of the textile supply chain by SDC’s Technical Director, Andrew Filarowski. The second day of the conference started with a lecture by Rowan Fisher (Colour Affects) elaborating on how it is possible to influence behaviour and predict response to colour and at the same time design universally attractive colour palettes to encourage sales. Nitesh Mehta from Newreka

followed this with a stimulating talk on various ways to reduce the discharge of liquid effluents, meeting the various environmental norms by addressing the problem at source level, thereby positively impacting the bottom-line. Srinivasan Shankarraman from Ion Exchange finished the session by giving the audience an overview of the zerodischarge system being developed in the Tirupur region for textile effluents. The next session on day two saw Elmar Lau from CHT-Bezema helping the audience understand the requirements of colour fastness for military articles and other modern day work-wear. Manish Basle and Franz Suetsch (both from DyStar) elaborated on the innovations and solutions for denim production that are driven by economics, ecology and fashion. Akshay Desai from NCS followed this with an overview on the role of colours in retail and branding. The session ended with Sanjita Prasad making an interactive

new frontiers

Ushering Growth

Regional winners of SDC’s International Design Competition

presentation on the role of colours in the global sourcing of fabrics. The last session of the conference was a panel discussion on colour in fashion, costume design and exports, chaired by Meher Castelino. The panellists included Nachiket Barve, Bhamini Subramaniam and Padma Kapoor. My personal highlight of the day was watching over 100 of the delegates continuing to sit and enjoy a cup of tea as the conference drew to a close at 1700 hrs on the Saturday. Always a sign of excellent networking and a good experience! At the end of it the sponsors, DyStar, CHT-Bezema, Clariant, Fongs, Pantone, X-Rite and SF Dyes were happy and SDC India was happy with the moderate revenue that we would end with.

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The speakers, sponsors and SDC India Trustee Board

Issue 3 | 2011


day of celebration

Day of Celebration All photos: Dean Smith

Sean Cady, VF Corporation

We were delighted to welcome so many members to our recent Day of Celebration, which took place in Bradford, UK. A busy day included our AGM, the inauguration of our new President, ratification of new trustees, awards ceremony and the UK final of the SDC International Design Competition. We formally welcomed Mun Lim Cheung as the new president of SDC, taking over from John Morris. M L from Hong Kong is the Society’s first ever president from outside the UK. He joined

SDC in 1968 and was one of the founding members of the Hong Kong region. A hugely experienced and respected figure in the textile industry in Hong Kong and China, a profile of M L was included in the last issue of The Colourist. M L opened the proceedings in the awards ceremony. As the name suggests, the Day of Celebration is an opportunity to celebrate. SDC’s annual presentation of diplomas, medals and awards recognises achievement in the knowledge and practice of colour science and colour technology. The Society’s medals are

awarded in recognition of exceptional service to the Society, or in the interest of the tinctorial and allied industries, or both. Firstly, the recipients of the diplomas of Fellowship, Associateship and Licentiateship were presented with their diplomas. The recipients were as follows:

Fellows ■ ■

Associates ■ ■ ■

■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■

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Roshan Paul PhD CCol FSDC Robert Michael Tyndall CCol FSDC

Uzma Syed PhD CCol ASDC Shah Reduwan Billah PhD CCol ASDC Olivier Jean-Louis Xavier Morel PhD CCol ASDC Syed Iqbal Ahmed PhD CCol ASDC Shui Hing Lam (George) CCol ASDC Siu Keun Wong (Daniel) CCol ASDC Havel Wai Kwong Yau CCol ASDC Hiu Fan Wong (William) CCol ASDC Kam Tak Chui (Jeff) CCol ASDC

Licentiates Award recipients

Issue 3 | 2011

Andrea Mallinson LSDC


Guests at the drinks reception and dinner

John Morris, the immediate past president, then presented Adrian Abel with Honorary Membership of SDC, in recognition of his distinguished service to the Society over many years, and his outstanding contribution to the Colour Index. The ceremony then moved on to the presentation of awards to the medal winners. The recipients were as follows:

Bronze Medal: ■

Gold Medal: ■

Sean Cady - for outstanding work in raising environmental issues in the textile industry Sanjiv Y Kamat PhD CCol FSDC - for outstanding services to SDC India Shu Chiu Daniel Tsun CCol ASDC - for outstanding and sustained service to the HK Region Bart van Kuijk - for significant and sustained support of SDC in Asia

Carol Graham PhD CCol ASDC - for sustained and dedicated service to performance and standards work Subramaniam Persiasamy - for significant contributions in the field of training and QC and support of SDC in India

Nabeel Amin PhD CCol ASDC - for advancing the cause of colour science in Pakistan Ela Dedhia PhD - for invaluable work for SDC India Sai Ganesh - for developing training programmes with SDC in India Fawad Noori - for enthusiastic services to SDC Pakistan Yung Ming John Lam CCol ASDC - for dedicated service to the HK Region Jan Shenton - for enthusiastic support of the SDC International Design Competition and SDC

Silver Medal: Tsz Lock Vien Cheung PhD CCol ASDC for significant services to education and SDC ■ Martin Ferus-Comelo - for sustained contribution to education and publishing ■

Centenary Medal: Todor Deligeorgiev, Aleksey Vasilev, Stefka Kaloyanova and Juan J Vaquero for the paper entitled ‘Styryl dyes – synthesis and applications during the last 15 years’ which appeared in

SDC President, ML Cheung

Coloration Technology in 2010. In future issues of The Colourist we will be profiling some of our award winners. In the afternoon we welcomed an exceptional line up of speakers. Beau Lotto (cover photo), broadcaster, experimental neuroscientist and Head of Lottolab at University College, London opened proceedings with a hugely entertaining presentation entitled ‘Why do we see what we do?’ He explored what colour really is through a series of interactive demonstrations ranging from ‘colour music’ to recreating the ‘sky in a bottle’. Our second speaker was Sean Cady, Vice President, Product Stewardship and Sustainability, VF Corporation. VF Corporation is a US$7 billion plus powerhouse, with an incredibly diverse international portfolio of brands. Sean focused on the challenges and opportunities of integrating product stewardship and sustainability into a global corporation. The product stewardship team ensures best-in-class management of product impacts through product liability due diligence, product regulatory compliance, government relations, management of potential product environmental impacts, product sustainability initiatives and management of the Restricted Substance List (RSL). Our final speaker was Bart van Kuijk, Chief Marketing Officer, DyStar. Bart gave a personal reflection on his life and career within the dyestuff industry and in particular his time as Managing Director of DyStar India, as Head of DyStar Textile Services and in his present role as CMO of DyStar. The day finished with a drinks reception and capacity black-tie dinner attended by the Lord Mayor of Bradford, Councillor Peter Hill. Issue 3 | 2011

day of celebration

Bart van Kuijk (DyStar) with other delegates

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international update

Reduce, Recycle, Reuse Date: 2 December 2011, Venue: CITA, Hong Kong We are absolutely delighted to announce this major half day conference, co-hosted by SDC in partnership with SDC Hong Kong and CITA (Clothing Industry Training Authority). Reduce, recycle, reuse… waste less by using less and using things again in order to protect the environment. Three essential components of environmentally responsible behaviour, sometimes called the ‘waste hierarchy’. But what does this mean for the textile industry? This event will focus on innovative approaches

and case studies, with keynote speakers from industry, a panel discussion and plenty of time for networking and debate. The conference is free to attend, but booking is essential! The venue is CITA’s lecture theatre in Kowloon Bay. The conference is followed by a cocktail reception and dinner at a local restaurant. The event also hosts the grand final of the SDC International Design Competition 2011. For further information please email: marketing@sdc.org.uk

SDC International Design Competition 2011 As the world’s leading educational charity dedicated to communicating the science of colour, SDC is a committed supporter of the next generation of young designers. One of the ways in which we do this is through our student competitions. The SDC International Design Competition was first launched in 2002, with each year seeing a record number of entries and new countries participating. This prestigious competition gives great exposure to the students and last year’s winner, Laduma Ngxokolo from South Africa, has now launched his own knitwear company, Maxhosa Knitwear. The 2011 competition is well underway, and congratulations go to the following winners of the country heats: ■ Shannon Daniell, Nelson Mandela Metropolitan University, South Africa ■ Anum Hanif, IQRA University, Pakistan ■ Amole Singh, National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad, India ■ Abigail Scheer, Rhode Island School of Design, USA ■ Asiima Leona Mawudoku, London Metropolitan University, UK ■ Sinead Loverty, University of Ulster, Ireland ■ Teeraphap Chaiwong, Rajamangala University of Technology, Thailand ■ Elouise Roberts, RMIT University, Australia Anum Hanif, the Pakistan finalist commented: ‘it is a great honour to be representing my country. I am proud to win the regional heat and am really looking forward to the final in Hong Kong. I would like to congratulate SDC Pakistan for organising this platform for the new generation and giving us this great opportunity’. All the finalists go forward to Hong Kong in December for the grand final. They will be joined by the winners from Singapore, China, Hong Kong and Bangladesh who will be holding their heats over the next few weeks.

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Anum Hanif from Pakistan receives her certificate

Issue 3 | 2011

Asiima Mawudoku, UK heat winner

ITMA 2011 Come and visit us on stand H1-D161! We are delighted to be involved in ITMA this year, and will be taking a stand in the research and education pavilion. Our participation has been made possible because of a grant to commemorate the 60th anniversary of CEMATEX. This grant has covered 75% of the direct participation costs. The Society was chosen because of the high regard in which our training and education is held. We will be using the opportunity to promote our training and professional coloration qualifications, as well as our publications, Colour Index and membership. In addition, we have been instrumental in organising a new initiative for ITMA – two half day seminars, part of the Textile Dyestuff and Chemical Leaders’ Forum. These take place on 25th September (focusing on sustainability), and 26th September (focusing on standards and trends). Speakers include dye manufacturers, retailers, brands, machine manufacturers and testing laboratories. Andrew Filarowski, SDC’s Technical Director, will be the moderator on day two. We hope to see you there. For further information and to register visit www.itma.com


diary dates

Diary of SDC events

EVENTS

China

Pakistan

21 September Huddersfield, UK

25-28 October, Beijing 20-23 December, Guangdong

21-22 September, Faisalabad

North of England region event. A lecture by Judi Thorpe entitled ‘Marsden children and their work in the mills’. Contact: jbhirst207@aol.com

SDC Colour Management and Colour Fastness Testing CTIC. Contact: wangling@fabricschina.com.cn

17 November London, UK Reduce, Recycle, Reuse The Chemistry of Textiles. A joint event with SCI focusing on the innovative use of chemicals in the textile industry. Contact: marketing@sdc.org.uk

2 December Hong Kong

United Kingdom 10-11 October, Qingdao 12-13 December, Guangzhou

20 September and 13 December, Bradford

SDC Certificate of ISO Colour Fastness Testing Program SGS. Contact: jane.jiang@sgs.com

Introduction to Coloration: Fibres to Coloured Fabrics. Contact: karens@sdc.org.uk

18-20 October, Hangzhou

21 September and 14 December, Bradford

SDC Certificate of Colour Management Training Program SGS. Contact: jane.jiang@sgs.com

Reduce, Recycle, Reuse Hong Kong region AGM, conference and grand final of the SDC International Design Competition. Contact: marketing@sdc.org.uk

Hong Kong and Macau

TRAINING COURSES Bangladesh

India

23-25 October, Dhaka SDC Certificate of ISO Colour Fastness Testing Program SGS. Contact: Yeasmin.Akhter@sgs.com

SDC Certificate of ISO Colour Fastness Testing Program SGS. Contact: AR.Lakhani@sgs.com

21 October SDC Appreciation of ISO Colour Fastness Testing Program SGS. Contact: George.lam@sgs.com

We have an extensive training programme in India. Please ask for dates and details. Contact: yogeshg@sdc.org.uk

Introduction to Colour Management. Contact: karens@sdc.org.uk In addition we have training courses coming up in: Taiwan, contact: Cindy.Chen@sgs.com Turkey, contact: Nadin.hacerestunc@sgs.com Vietnam, contact: Phong.tran@sgs.com Ask about our in-house and tailor-made training courses! Contact: karens@sdc.org.uk

Welcome to Yogesh Gaikwad We’re delighted to welcome Yogesh Gaikwad, who has recently joined SDC as Technical Manager – Asia. Yogesh has a Diploma in Man Made Textile Chemistry, a Diploma in Marketing and Management of Textiles and he has worked in the textile industry for a number of years, most recently at

DyStar India. Based in our Mumbai office, Yogesh is focusing on managing the training and consultancy programmes for the Society in India, Pakistan, Bangladesh and Sri Lanka. Contact: yogeshg@sdc.org.uk

15 Issue 3 | 2011


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The Colourist - 3rd Edition 2011