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E s c a p e s T H E U l t i m a te

ESCAPES The Ultimate Reward

R e w a r d •

BEACH BOUNTY

w w w . u l t i m a tee s c a p e s . c O M

Here today, gone to Maui— and Belize and St. Thomas and Mexico and Nevis…

STEVE YOUNG

Work Hard, Play Harder

20 QUESTIONS Tony Hawk

V O L U M E 1 • I S S U E 1 C O M P L I M E N TA R Y

HOLIDAY Chicago | INTERVIEW Frank Gehry | GOLF The Carolinas COMPLIMENTARY VOLUME 1 ISSUE 1 ULTIMATEESCAPES.COM


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■ jim’s letter

To Our Friends, Ultimate Escapes® is the combination of two extraordinary luxury destination clubs: Ultimate Resort® and Private Escapes®. Our members enjoy access to more than 140 private residences and over 130 affiliated properties in more than 150 locations worldwide that range from chic urban apartments to charming beach cottages, spacious five-bedroom homes to private yachts. And just as Ultimate Escapes is about delivering memorable, luxury travel experiences to members who place great value on spending quality time with family and friends, so too is our new magazine about relating those ultimate experiences through fabulous stories, photographs, travel insights and destination information.

Jim Tousignant, CEO of Ultimate Escapes, and club member Doc Rivers (right), coach of the 2008 NBA champion Boston Celtics, at Rivers’ Celebrity Golf Invitational in Orlando. At the pairings party the night before the event, Jim presented Doc with a framed photograph of Villa Eternidade, one of the club’s Elite homes

In these pages, we take you from Manhattan to London and the Napa Valley to the Carribean. We talk with icon Tony Hawk, architect Frank Gehry, and pro football Hall of Fame and Ultimate Escapes member Steve Young. We introduce you to the ultimate dive expert in Turks and Caicos, tag along for a father-son golf trip in the Carolinas, and present Enzo, a truly unique character who is wise beyond his dog years.

in Los Cabos, Mexico, which has been renamed Rivers Eternidade in honor of the basketball great’s accomplishments and association with Ultimate Escapes. Now in its eighth year, Rivers’ annual celebrity golf tournament has raised over $650,000 for Shepherd’s Hope, a

With our first issue of ESCAPES, we aim to convey our club’s commitment to our members as well as our passion for distinctive experiences that create a sense of awe and leave a lasting impression. We invite you to enjoy and escape!

faith-based nonprofit organization that provides free medical care using an all-volunteer health-care staff. shepherdshope.org.

Ultimate Regards,

Jim Tousignant President & CEO Ultimate Escapes 4

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■ editor’s note

Life is made up of moments. One of my favorites is captured in this photo from a recent jaunt to Oahu, where I fulfilled a dream and learned to surf. (Bless the photographer for snapping this before I biffed.) ESCAPES endeavors to assist in the making of such moments for Ultimate Escapes members, their families, and their friends. Our new magazine celebrates a lifestyle enjoyed by active, passionate travelers. Many of the stories present useful information that we hope will inspire your own travel plans, while others are purely for your entertainment. All are intended to engage and entice. Sharing their visions of our exceptional destinations are an equally exceptional group of writers and photographers, including best-selling novelist and Oscar-nominated screenwriter Tom Perrotta, National Geographic contributor Robb Kendrick, United States Golf Association Book of the Year award-winning author Kevin Cook, and photographer Tabitha Soren, whose image of her husband, author Michael Lewis, with their daughter Quinn on the last page of this first issue truly crystallizes the vision for ESCAPES. Which are your ultimate moments? We invite your thoughts and encourage your participation in the making of the magazine; please send an e-mail to editor@ultimateescapes.com and share your favorite pictures and memories from your Ultimate Escape. I look forward to hearing from you, wherever your travels make take you. Cheers,

Scott Gummer Editor Please send hi-resolution .JPG digital files and include your full name and hometown. Letters may be edited.

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â–  CONTENTS VOLUME 1, ISSUE 1

32 52

38

FE AT URES 32 BEACH BOUNTY 38

A bevy of new sun-splashed getaways By Kate Meyers

38 YOUNG AT HEART

Hall of Famer Steve Young in the Bahamas By Scott Gummer

42 THE SWEETEST SWING

A father-son golf road trip, Carolinas-style By Kevin Cook

48 THE ART OF RACING IN THE RAIN Excerpted from the best-selling novel By Garth Stein

!üGAMEüASüUNFORGETTABLEüASüTHEüDESTINATION It’s not whether you win or lose, it’s where you play the game. And there’s no better place to play than at a Fairmont golf course. Our growing collection of worldwide destinations are each renowned for reflecting local grandeur—gorgeous seasides or breathtaking mountains, lush tropics or stark deserts. When you combine Fairmont with golf, the result is truly memorable, because we believe that a great game demands a great destination. &ORüRESERVATIONSüORüMOREüINFORMATION üPLEASEüCONTACTüYOURüTRAVELüPROFESSIONAL üCALLüüüüüORüVISITüWWWFAIRMONTGOLFCOM

52 UTAH

A Photographic Journey by Robb Kendrick ACAPU L CO s AL B ERTA s B ER MU D A s B R IT ISH CO L U MB IA s H AWAII s MIAMI s N EW B R U N SWI C K s Q UÉ B E C s R IVIE R A MAYA s S C O TTS D A LE s S T A ND R E WS

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■ CONTENTS

E s c a p e . E a s i e r.

VOLUME 1, ISSUE 1

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Luggage Express® and Ultimate EscapesSM have partnered to make getting from here to there a little easier. Luggage Express will pick up your luggage and sports equipment at your home and deliver it right to the front door of your Ultimate EscapesSM destination home. Members receive preferential pricing. Contact your Escape Planner or call Luggage Express at 1-866-SHIP-BAG for more information. TravelLighter.com/partners/UltimateEscapes

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DEPARTMENTS 16 Ultimate ® | View

1600 Broadway, New York City

18 Ultimate | Living

Stuff you want. Things you need.

20 Ultimate | Interview

Frank Gehry has designs on Napa Valley By Scott Gummer

24 Ultimate | Holiday ‘Tis the Season in the Windy City By Nancy Loo

28 Ultimate | Expert

The man to see for diving on Turks & Caicos By Abigail Peterson

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30 Ultimate | Collection

The author plays tourist in his own town By Tom Perrotta

59 20 Questions Tony Hawk

61 Destination Stowe, Vermont

62 Directory

The World of Ultimate Escapes

64 Moments

London By Tabitha Soren

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SM


■ Masthead

ESCAPES The Ultimate Reward

ULTIMATE ESCAPES® 3501 W. Vine Street, Suite 225 Kissimmee, FL 34741 407-483-1900 www.UltimateEscapes.com PRESIDENT & CEO Jim Tousignant

CHAIRMAN Richard Keith

CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER Phil Callaghan

SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, SALES Steve Healy

SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, MEMBER SERVICES Dana Percival

SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, OPERATIONS Ed Powers

VICE PRESIDENT, MEMBER SERVICES Brooke Lowrance

DIRECTOR OF COMMUNICATIONS Lauren Keyson

LUXURY CUSTOM PUBLISHING 100 Brush Creek Road, Suite 206 Santa Rosa, CA 95404 707-537-8700 www.LuxuryCustomPublishing.com PUBLISHER Peter Gotfredson

EDITOR Scott Gummer

CONTRIBUTORS Abigail Peterson, Tom Perrotta, Nancy Loo, Kate Meyers, Kevin Cook, Garth Stein, Robb Kendrick, Lisa Highsmith, Tabitha Soren DESIGNERS Chris Flores, Lauren Clulow, Jim Hughes INTERN Hannah Westwood COPY EDITOR Alison Aves

ADVERTISING advertising@ultimateescapes.com

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LETTERS editor@ultimateescapes.com


TOM PERROTTA writer

You Can Go Home Again Current Gig: Screenwriter for my novel, The Abstinence Teacher

Debbie Milligan

â–  Contributors

Last Vacation: Vermont Bike Trip

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TH E ART O F RAC IN G IN THE RAIN

Favorite vacation: A beach in Maine

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tomperrotta.net

Photographer

Moments

KEVIN COOK

Todd Hido

TABITHA SOREN

Writer

The Sweetest Swing

Future gig: Upcoming exhibit at Civilian Art Projects in Washington D.C.

Lastest gig: Author of Driven: Teen Phenoms, Mad Parents, Swing Science and the Future of Golf

Home: Berkeley, California

Last Vacation: This one—golf in the Carolinas with my son, Cal

Next Vacation: Surf school in Laguna Beach, California

Favorite Vacation: 2007 pilgrimage to Scotland with the family

Dream Vacation: Any trip 6 weeks or longer

T OF R A E H T G IN N I C A R IN A R E TH A

E L N O V

Home: New York City

tabithasoren.com

ROBB KENDRICK

Nancy Loo

Photographer

T H G A R

I N S T E

Writer

Utah

current gig: Anchor, Fox News Chicago Last Vacation: Disney World, Orlando

Last Vacation: 4,300 mile tour of the West

Next Vacation: New York City

Dream Vacation: Summer camping with my family in Iceland

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Favorite Vacation: Bali, Indonesia and Australia

Home Base: San Miguel de Allende, Mexico

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Chicago

next gig: Tintype photographs of Mexican mummies

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Dream Vacation: Greece

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KATE MEYERS Writer

Beach Bounty Future giG: Freelance writer with a respectable golf handicap Last Vacation: Hanging out with my family on the Jersey shore

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Dream Vacation: Spring skiing in Aspen Home: Louisville, Colorado

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ON SALE NOW 15


■ ULTIMATE | VIEW

P E N T HOU SE 5 D 16 0 0 BROA DWAY N E W YO R K C I T Y Elizabeth A. Miller/Sipa Press

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key west

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■ ultimate | living

Stuff You Want. Things You Need.

olympic timing Acclaimed watchmaker Omega has been keeping time at the Olympic Games since 1932. The 2008 Beijing Collection celebrates the spirit of the Olympics with a line of elegant, limited-edition timepieces. The handsome Aqua Terra Chronograph comes in either full stainless steel or stainless steel with rose gold bezel and features a subtle Olympic rings logo. Time is already running out: Omega is only making 2008 of these collector’s items. omegawatches.com

Hang Green

Novel Idea

Fine craftsmanship and eco-friendliness combine with an aloha vibe at master shaper Gary Young’s custom bamboo surfboard shop on the Big Island of Hawaii. Young’s muchsought-after bamboo boards are performance-oriented, sustainable, durable, and as strong as fiberglass without the cumbersome weight. And they’re absolutely gorgeous to boot, as Young takes full advantage of the rich tones and striations of the bamboo. You can’t beat a board that’s good for the environment, good-looking, and good fun. bamboosurfboardshawaii.com

The days of lugging stacks of books on vacation are mercifully over. Kindle, Amazon.com’s new, powerful, portable e-book reader, promises to do for book lovers what the iPod did for music lovers, who can barely remember ever having to tote a portable CD player and wallet of discs. Introduced in late 2007, Kindle immediately sold out but is available again. Kindle boasts a bright, read-anywhere screen, can hold up to 200 titles at a time, and works wirelessly without a subscription; book and newspaper downloads start at just a dollar. amazon.com

Rise & Shine Why awaken to the same shrill cell-phone alarm when you’re are on vacation? A more elegant and civilized solution comes from Asprey in the form of the adorable Clic Clac alarm clock, the perfect small indulgence for your bedside table. British-based Asprey has been crafting fine luxury goods for over 225 years, so you know their pieces are going to be lovely, and you know they’ll last. The Clic Clac is available in a range of colors and comes in calfskin, lizard, alligator, or engine-turned stainless steel. asprey.com

Silky Spirit In the march toward ever-more-exclusive premium spirits, first tequila fell into line, then sake, and now ultra-premium vodka. Imported from Poland, Ultimat vodka is crafted from a blend of wheat, potato, and rye—the only vodka on the market that incorporates all three sources. It’s a handsdown winner for its ultra-clean, smooth taste, the result of a unique, time-honed distillation and filtration process. And Ultimat’s ice-blue handblown crystal decanter is as slick as the vodka is smooth. ultimatvodka.com 18

Haute Packs

Class Slipper

When Nautica founder David Chu joined luggage maker Tumi as its new executive creative director, his mandate was to remake the high-quality but somewhat staid company into a hip, hot, high-fashion powerhouse. We love Chu’s Townhouse Collection of men’s luxury luggage, new for fall 2008 in chic British menswear-inspired grey covert cloth with black leather accents. Chu is also overseeing a new cutting-edge line of Tumi outerwear for fall 2008. tumi.com

It’s the holy grail of ski gear: Perfectly fitting boots, ones that don’t cause blisters or aches and don’t leave you exhausted at the end of a long day on the mountain. Utah-based Surefoot has discovered the key to comfort on the slopes: a completely custom approach to boot manufacturing coupled with teams of specialists who can eliminate all the guesswork about fit. Surefoot’s goal is to create the world’s most comfortable ski boots— and after 25 years and a half-million pairs, we think they’ve done it. surefoot.com 19


■ ULTIMATE | INTERVIEW

Frank Gehry has F

designs on Napa Valley By Scott Gummer

rank Gehry conceives mind- and landscape-altering buildings that

How did you come to this place and this project?

provoke all manner of adjectives, some more flattering than others,

I do not go looking for a certain kind of project because I feel like if I want something I would probably never get it. That is my one superstition. I say that I don’t ever want to do an airport; that way I might actually get to do one. Also, I have never sought after clients because it’s just not in my DNA to do that. We don’t pursue commissions or clients. The way I choose is usually an instant feeling of, “Do I really like these people?” Kathy and Craig Hall invited me and my partner, Edwin Chan, up to Napa; we saw the land and we listened to what Kathy and Craig were about, their relationship to art, their vision. They are not here for a quick profit, to get in and get out. They are designing a lifestyle. They are very serious about the quality of the wines they make, but they are also very serious about their respect for the land and the winery’s relationship to it.

but most along the lines of genius. Hailed as the world’s greatest

living architect, Gehry has worked all over the world but presently has designs on the California wine country, where he is creating the ballyhooed new HALL Winery in St. Helena. Gehry’s first such undertaking in America will include a 10,000-square-foot tasting room fashioned of glass, stone, and wood, and topped by trellises in the undulating style for which he is famous. The $100+ million landmark is targeted to debut in 2011 and represents a marvel of modern art and old-world winemaking. ESCAPES Editor Scott Gummer spoke with Gehry at the groundbreaking ceremony.

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Gehry’s original sketch for the winery, top, and the model for the building that has wine country abuzz.

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This winery has proved to be a truly collaborative creative process. Kathy and Craig have participated every step of the way, and they have done so willingly. Their appreciation and respect for Edwin has been exhilarating for me, and that was important because I am getting older, and this is an opportunity to let Edwin’s talents fly. He has been a guiding light, so to speak, on this, and as exciting as that is for him I truly believe it is even more exciting for me.

Masterworks

When you attend a grand opening, do you feel relief or meleoncholy? The hardest part for me is that when a project is all finished I inevitably can’t help but see things I might have done differently. I think to myself, “Why did I do that?” Or “How could I have done this to these people?” It takes me a while to get over that.

This winery gives you a brilliant excuse to visit Napa Valley. It is probably a good thing I do not live here because I will be able enjoy the winery instead of fussing over it. I will be able to come up here worry-free and relax and drink the wines and take in the experience. And that is what this place is all about.

Given the canvas of Napa Valley, did you have a vision of what you wanted to do with this winery?

Architects Frank Gehry and Edwin Chan discuss their grand plans for the winery with owners Kathryn and Craig Hall. Top, the vineyards at HALL Rutherford.

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When we start to work on a project, we never start with any preconceived idea. The early baby steps always look idiotic. I look back at some of the first models for the winery and wonder, “What was I thinking?” But if you follow the trajectory, you realize that you were actually following a line of thought. I always think of it like birthing the Queen Mary. On any project, it is important to remain optimistic that the end result is going to be what you hope it will be. I think that if you lose that sense of optimism then you just don’t get there. If you don’t get that juice, you’ve got nothing.

What motivates you? Frustration. And insecurity. But I think that is healthy because it forces me to keep looking at each piece and constantly ask myself “Is this right? Is that right?” It’s a puzzle. It’s confounding. How do you get your arms around something that is bigger than life, something that is going to affect so many people? It’s not easy. Building is like cooking a soufflé. You put in all the ingredients and then it all comes together at one moment. In reality, it is all the fuss and preparation along the way that takes so much time. That is the essence. That is what makes the end result great. All of a sudden—boom—it’s together and it’s gelled and it’s finished and hopefully everyone is happy with it.

Experience the remarkable winery-in-progress with a tour of HALL St. Helena, where over 40 of Frank Gehry’s models and renderings are on display. Open daily 10:00-5:30; for information and tour reservations call 707-967-2620 or e-mail celebrate@hallwines.com. HALL Rutherford, Kathryn and Craig Hall’s private winery high atop the eastern hills of Napa Valley, welcomes guests to enjoy the extensive art collection, explore the wine caves, and taste HALL’s most prestigious offerings, by appointment only. 707-967-0700 or celebrate@hallwines.com. Tour and tasting fees apply.

The remarkable art and architecture of Frank Gehry: clockwise from top, Guggenheim Museum, Bilbao, Spain; Walt Disney Concert Hall, Los Angeles; IAC Building, New York.

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â–  ULTIMATE | HOLIDAY michigan avenue

Chicago BY Nancy Loo

H

aving lived in New York, San Francisco, Tokyo and Hong Kong, I truly appreciate the annual holiday showcase here in America’s heartland. Chicago suffers no shortage of idyllic and magical things to do and see throughout the holiday season. Locals and tourists alike stroll the Magnificent Mile to soak in the Festival of Lights, view

the dozens of Christmas trees representing countries around the globe at the Museum of Science and Industry, enjoy world-class shopping and dine at our nationally renowned restaurants. Here are some suggested stops I have discovered in my Windy City.

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chicago at night

chicago theater

ice rink downtown

Marshall field’s clock

Cloud Gate

Start in the heart of Lakeview, not far from Ultimate Escapes’ Premiere Club property in Lincoln Park, with a decadent breakfast at Southport Grocery and Café. This tiny storefront is a gourmet grocery store and casual dining spot for serious foodies. They don’t take reservations and there’s often a line on the weekends, but the grilled brie sandwiches, exceptional omelets, and breadpudding pancakes are worth the wait. And don’t leave without sampling their famous cupcakes, voted the city’s best by Chicago Magazine. 3552 N. Southport Ave., 773-6650100, southportgrocery.com SM

Walk off those calories with a stroll through the neighboring shops along Southport Corridor,

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and don’t be surprised to spy Chicago’s own athletes and entertainers. Oscar-winning actress Virginia Madsen is known to favor Krista K, a chic boutique featuring eclectic clothing and jewelry collections and an extensive selection of the hottest denim lines. Even though baseball is not in season, guys who aren’t into shopping can bop about nearby Wrigleyville, the neighborhood surrounding historic Wrigley Field. N. Southport Ave. near W. Addison St. Mere steps from the Signature Club residence in The Heritage building downtown, Millennium Park is a holiday favorite for many families. Take a spin on the ice rink or stroll through the beautifully landscaped grounds. My favorite SM

is the stunning silver Cloud Gate sculpture by British artist Anish Kapoor. Take time to walk under and around this sleek elliptical structure, which Chicagoans have nicknamed “The Bean”. During the holiday season, carolers usually gather here on Friday evenings for a festive sing-a-long. 201 E. Randolph St., 312-742-1168, millenniumpark.org Macy’s on State Street is not exactly off the beaten track, but the store has gone to great lengths to maintain some of the century-old traditions of Chicago’s gone-but-notforgotten Marshall Field’s. The landmark building is grand and ornate, and the holiday window displays never disappoint. Enjoy a hearty chicken potpie beside the giant marble

Water tower

fountain in the Walnut Room. Kids young and old, naughty and nice can get a photo with the most authentic Santa Claus this side of the North Pole. 111 N. State St., 312-781-1000, visitmacyschicago.com Step into another time and another world: Christkindlmarket Chicago. What started as a small, traditional winter market has grown into the biggest and best German holiday fair in the country. Candy-cane-striped awnings house all manner of goodies and gifts, from handblown glass ornaments to bier and holiday gluhwein that will warm the spirits. Open November 27 through December 24, 2008. Daley Plaza at Washington and Dearborn, 312-494-2175, christkindlmarket.com

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■ ULTIMATE | EXPERT

Art Pickering Dive Guide

Providenciales, Turks and Caicos By Abigail Peterson

Art Pickering came to Turks and Caicos 37 years ago—and never left. It was love at first dive. He founded the islands’ original dive operation back when this forty-island archipelago was an isolated outpost with grass airstrips. Today, it is a hip Caribbean getaway and a Mecca for divers thanks in large part to Turks and Caicos’ boasting the world’s third-largest coral reef.

My co-pilot is Dewey, my Jack Russell terrier. It’s like that American Express commercial: I don’t leave home without him. Dewey just loves being on the boat. When we drop anchor he goes ballistic; he just can’t wait to jump in. Any time of year is the right time to visit. In the winter months we have humpback whales. They tend to be most active in February; they are calving then, so the mamas keep the little ones in relatively shallow water. We stop the

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boat and snorkel with them. They are some of the most acrobatic animals I’ve ever watched—breaching, on their backs, waving to you. It’s a cliché, but that really is one of those things in life you have to see to believe.

Chel Beeson

Our claim to fame in the diving world is our walls and drop-offs. One of my favorites is a place we call Shark Hotel, out on Northwest Point. I lead guests down a great big crack, big enough for two divers, to a spot where you never know what all you are going to see. It’s so beautiful and peaceful—all you hear are bubbles.

We’ve got all kinds of turtles—green turtles, hawksbills. They are so cool and so relaxed. In the summertime they’re in mating mode and they’ll stop and hang out. We’ve also got lots of sharks—reef sharks, hammerheads, tiger sharks, and whale sharks. The spotted ones can get more than 20 feet long, and they like to interact. I say “shark” and some people get scared, but they are just great big babies.

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■ ULTIMATE | COLLECTION

SM

You Can Go Home Again

I

By Tom Perrotta

was familiar with Boston’s Eliot Hotel long before I had the opportunity to stay there as a guest. In 2005, when film director Todd Field and I collaborated on the screenplay for the movie Little Children (based on my novel), we did most of the writing at the Eliot. It was Todd’s home away from home, an elegant, inconspicuous establishment in Boston’s Back Bay, just across the river from Cambridge. I appreciated the hotel’s calm, stately ambience—it felt like an oasis in the midst of a bustling urban neighborhood full of shoppers and college students—and enjoyed the spacious, comfortably furnished living room of Todd’s suite, which always seemed to be filled with sunlight. As a result of that experience, I had come to think of the Eliot less as a hotel than as an unusually pleasant place to work. Recently, I had a chance to revisit the Eliot—this time all play and no work—and I discovered a hotel that is also a great place to relax, an extraordinary spot to eat, and a convenient gateway to the nocturnal pleasures of Boston. My wife, Mary, and I arrived on a breezy evening, just the two of us for the first time in a long time, both a bit harried after a typically hectic weekend of kids’ soccer games and errands. We pulled up in front of a dignified redbrick building on the corner of Massachusetts and Commonwealth avenues that, except for its understated entranceway, could easily be taken for one of the upscale apartment buildings that help make the Back Bay a thriving residential and pedestrian neighborhood. Inside, the marble lobby radiated the same confident lack of pretension, with its small, old-fashioned reception desk set off to one side and vintage dark wood-paneled elevators that always seemed to be at the ready when we pressed the call button. We had just enough time to unpack, unwind, and relax in the homey

surroundings of our suite before heading back downstairs for our seven o’clock reservation at the hotel’s acclaimed Clio Restaurant. Clio is both like and unlike the hotel in that it is small and intimate (the hotel boasts just 95 suites and guestrooms, while the restaurant seats 81), and visually, at least, both value subtlety over flash. When it comes to food, however, Clio follows

After savoring every last bite and moment of our leisurely meal—I had the Muscovy duck, Mary the locally caught cod, followed by a shared dessert of melted chocolate tucked inside a delicate golden shell called milk chocolate palet d’or—we decided that we needed a little fresh air and exercise. We ambled down Newbury Street, which is always hopping on a balmy weekend night, to the Boston Common and then wound our way slowly back to the hotel. If the Red Sox were playing at home (and had we been lucky enough to score tickets), we could have continued walking to Fenway Park. We talked about heading over the Harvard Bridge into Cambridge’s Central Square to catch some live music at one of the clubs that form the heart of the Hub’s thriving indie rock scene, but neither of us were feeling quite that ambitious, so we happily headed back to our suite. The Eliot is an easy hotel to feel comfortable in; the décor is cozy rather than luxurious, more like an apartment than a hotel room. Mary and I were grateful to have a quiet night all to ourselves, no kids or social obligations, just a couple of cheerful vacationers in our own city. When we woke in the morning, our room was filled with light, just the way I remembered it. I stood by the window and thought about how much I’d enjoyed working there, with Boston spread out below, the afternoon streets humming with people and activity. But it was early now, blissfully quiet, with only the occasional dog walker ambling by to disturb the morning stillness, and I couldn’t help thinking that I liked not working there

S UI T E

I N D ULGE NCES … . . . as Unique as our Guests Mona Lisa Suite Hotel, Celebration, Florida Experience Mona Lisa Suite Hotel, Orlando’s newest neoclassical all-suite hotel. Each suite is thoughtfully appointed with sumptuous furnishings. View the spectacular infinity pool or lush Florida landscape from your private, furnished balcony. The Kimberly Hotel, New York, New York Nestled in New York City’s fashionable East Side stands a hotel unique in spirit and steeped in hospitality. The exclusive Luxury Suite Collection provides you with an intimate and unique experience in timeless elegance. The Eliot Hotel, Boston, Massachusetts In fashionable Back Bay, steps away from the boutiques and restaurants of Newbury Street and within easy reach of Boston’s medical and biotechnology centers and universities, guests of the four-diamond Eliot Hotel bask in the luxury and service experienced in the finest European hotels. worldhotels.com l Tel.: 1-800-223-5652

Best-selling novelist and Oscarnominated screenwriter Tom Perrotta enjoys a night away in his native Boston

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a very different esthetic from the Eliot: where the hotel is charmingly traditional, the restaurant is an adventure. Every dish is crafted with imagination and flair and presented as a work of art. Anyone who has sampled so much as a morsel of chef Ken Oringer’s fare will understand why the restaurant has been cited over and over as being among the finest in the country. The hotel’s sashimi bar, Uni, has a similarly stellar reputation.

even better. The Eliot Hotel is part of the Ultimate Collection , a portfolio of nearly 140 luxury hotels available to members around the world. Download a directory on UltimateEscapes.com > Destinations > Affiliate Properties or contact Member Services for more information. SM

UNIQUE HOTELS FOR UNIQUE PEOPLE worldhotels.com


■ BEACH punta cana

bEach bounty

By Kate Meyers

ThirTEEN INCOMPARABLE GETAWAYS OPEN UP A WORLD OF OPTIONS AND OPPORTUNITIES

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U

belize

LTIMATE ESCAPES MEMBERS DOUBLED THEIR FUN WHEN RECENT MARRIAGES AND ACQUISITIONS PADDED THE NEW CLUB’S PORTFOLIO WITH A BEVY

OF SUN-SPLASHED LOCALES. A BOON TO LOVERS OF SAND AND SURF—AND GOLF AND SPAS AND WATER SPORTS AND RUM DRINKS WITH TINY UMBRELLAS—THESE HOT SPOTS ENCOMPASS THE WORLD’S MOST DESIRABLE DESTINATIONS.

villa paradiso, nevis, british west indies elite & signature

Just beyond the palm-frond roofs of your Bali-inspired villa and your private pool lies the sparkling Caribbean. Sunrise and sunset are especially poetic on this seven- mile-long, five-mile-wide island. The Spanish called Nevis “Our Lady of the Snows” because of the white clouds that surround its central volcanic peak. Though 3,232-foot Nevis Peak has been dormant since the 17th century, a day hike will take you to its summit. In addition to ten beaches, there are also hot mineral springs on the island. Lying back and listening to the doves coo or heading to the hills to watch the green vervet monkeys play are among Nevis’ best land-based options. Other activities on this eco-paradise include golfing on the Robert Trent Jones II-designed course at the nearby Four Seasons Resort, mountain biking, hiking through the rain forest, and horseback riding along the beach.

nevis

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st. thomas, us virgin islands

st. thomas

elite

Every room of this St. Thomas estate offers an ocean view. If you ever tire of your own private pool, there are some two dozen beaches to explore, from popular Magens Bay to quiet Lindquist Beach. Shop, bar hop, check out the red roofs that populate the bustling town of Charlotte Amalie, the capital of the U.S. Virgin Islands—lollygagging is an activity unto itself. The island suffers no shortage of water activities: kayak through mangrove lagoons, sail, dive, or deep-sea fish—or stay dry and visit the five-acre Coral World Ocean Park with its three-story underwater tower. There’s something for water and sun worshippers alike, and no need for a passport.

belize premiere

This divers’ paradise has the longest barrier reef (186 miles) in the Western Hemisphere. Located on the east coast of Central America’s Caribbean basin in the heart of Mayan country, Belize’s caves, grottos, and atolls are home to an explosion of marine life. The near 80° waters make exploration all the more comfortable and enjoyable. Snorkel, deep-sea fish, kayak, parasail, or just forget breaking a sweat and dive into a thatch-covered hammock. If inspired to explore beyond the beach, check out one of the eco-hikes that meander by rivers, lakes, secret waterfalls, and Mayan ruins.

naples, florida

and plenty of grouper, pompano, and cobia for those interested in casting a fishing line. Even more outdoor adventure can be found in Everglades National Park, a short drive away.

golf course, and all the water-related activities you can imagine. Even cooler: a dip in one of the freshwater ponds at Punta Cana’s 45-acre ecological reserve.

PUNTA CANA, DOMINICAN REPUBLIC

KEY WEST, FLORIDA

Signature & Premiere

Elite

Picture a postcard-perfect beach, serenity, and the easiest international travel experience imaginable. Punta Cana is just three-anda-half hours from New York, and from the moment you land at the airport the resort’s concierge will whisk your party through customs so that the time between landing and floating in the Caribbean is about 20 minutes, tops. This 15,000-acre resort offers three miles of pristine beach, a Six Senses Spa, P.B. Dye

The southernmost city in the continental U.S. has long attracted a wide range of interesting characters, from Tennessee Williams to Jimmy Buffett to Ernest Hemingway, whose house and writing studio are now a museum here. Great beach, great fun, and great architecture, including the club’s 1920s home. The fishing is phenomenal (tuna in the Gulf Stream, grouper in the reefs), as are the sailing, diving, and dolphin watching. Sunsets are applauded

nightly with gusto and are best enjoyed in the company of the characters around Mallory Square or in the solitude of Fort Zachary Taylor State Park. Key West offers the option for peace and quiet—in your backyard pool and garden—or hustle and bustle—a few short blocks away in Old Town. key west

NAPLES

elite & signature

With some 100 public and private golf courses in the immediate vicinity, Naples has the highest ratio of courses to golfers in the United States. Not that you have to be a golf aficionado to love the subtropical climate of this southwestern stretch of Florida. The city has more than ten miles of stunning white sand beaches. In keeping with most seaside locales, there are water activities galore (rent or charter a boat at Crayton Cove dock) 35


maui, hawaii elite & signature

indian rocks beach

turks & caicos

Maui’s sunny south shore has all the trappings of a modern-day Eden. The residences at Wailea Beach Villas look out at the West Maui Mountains as well as the islands of Lanai and Kahoolawe, and the Molokini crater. Your job is to just enjoy, as these villas have all the amenities of a world-class hotel. Black lava points protect Wailea Beach at each end, so the waters are exceptionally calm and familyfriendly. Next door, the Shops at Wailea house over 50 boutiques and several worthwhile restaurants. Five gorgeous world-class golf courses and a David Leadbetter Golf Academy are within a few miles. The list of unique and memorable activities includes snorkeling at Molokini crater and catching the sunrise atop Haleakala followed by a 38-mile bike ride down the mountain.

punta mita, mexico premiere

It may be only 30 minutes from Puerto Vallarta, but Punta Mita feels a world away. A trip into the colonial town with its cobblestones streets is always fun for an afternoon or evening out, but there are myriad reasons to stay in this isolated enclave on the Mexican Riviera. The beach is just steps from the patio, a perfect perch for whale watching while enjoying a morning cup of coffee or an afternoon cerveza. Looking for some exercise? Walk 15 steps from the door to the infinity pool and swim up to the bar for a margarita. The nearby Four Seasons Resort offers an Apuane Spa, tennis, and golf on a signature Jack Nicklaus course. For a true one-with-nature experience, wash away your cares in the private outdoor shower.

turks & caicos signature & premiere

This stretch of 40 islands and cays, only 8 of which are inhabited, has become the hip and happening spot in the Caribbean. The scuba and snorkeling are out of this world (see page 22). Other worthy pursuits include parasailing over Grace Bay, exploring the limestone cliffs, and observing the colorful bird life—almost 300 square miles of these islands are protected parkland and wildlife sanctuaries. The soft, powdery sand, warm water, picturesque scenery, and authentic island vibe have helped Turks and Caicos land a spot on every credible list of the world’s best beach destinations.

palm beach county, florida elite & signature

Delray Beach and Boca Raton are both beach lovers’ playgrounds. The exclusive enclave of Palm Beach County offers an additional array of cosmopolitan delights. Atlantic Avenue,

elite, signature & premiere

big island, hawaii

The name is appropriate. WaterColor is all about hues: white sand beaches, emerald gulf waters, and azure sky. This 499-acre resort rests along Florida’s northwest Gulf Coast and offers both the ocean and also a coastal lake for all sports wet. Splashing about at the Gulf Front Beach Club with its oversized pool deck and grill is a brilliant option, while WaterColor’s Boat House outfits canoe, kayak, and sailing adventures. Also on the amenities list is an award-winning Tennis Center complete with lights for nighttime play. Golfers can indulge in two courses ranked among the best in the state: Tom Fazio’s Camp Creek Golf Club and the Shark’s Tooth, a Greg Norman signature design. Venturing out a bit, Grayton Beach State Recreation Area and its 2,228 acres of hiking, biking, and boating are right next door.

big island, hawaii premiere

Wake up and smell the Kona coffee at this 1,350-acre oceanfront playground on the Kohala coast. Where to begin? The long list includes swimming with dolphins, learning to hula, enjoying a good book by a glistening pool, boutique browsing, taking in the sights and scents at the cultural gardens, and teeing it up on two terrific golf courses. Robert Trent

Jones II’s Beach Course was carved from lava fields along the coastline, and Tom Weiskopf and Jay Morrish’s Kings’ Course is a bit of Scotland with volcano views. Make time to explore the 150 miles of trails in majestic Volcanoes National Park or take a helicopter tour and check out the active Kilauea volcano from above. From every perspective, the Big Island delivers big fun.

punta mita

Mizner Park, CityPlace, Clematis Street, and the Kravis Center for the Performing Arts—to name but a few—are bustling spots for shopping, gallery-going, dining, and culture. There’s also plenty of physical activity beyond the sea, with golf courses and tennis courts galore, as well as opportunities for watching

palm beach

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watercolor, florida

balls batted (baseball spring training) and mallets whacked (the International Polo Club). On any given day, it’s a perfect spot for being as lively or lounge-y as you like.

indian rocks beach, florida elite

Relax in 4,500 square feet of secluded style with your very own beach out back. Indian Rocks Beach is a barrier island on the west coast of Florida between the Gulf of Mexico and the Intracoastal Waterway. On sunny days there are all kinds of water-related activities available, and if it rains there is a cozy home theater inside. It’s easy to reach (30 minutes from Tampa International Airport) yet lacks the typical Florida beach crowds. A major plus for families: close proximity to Tampa’s Busch Gardens and Adventure Island, amaui 25-acre water park. 37


■ Profile

YOUNG HEART AT

Elite club member Steve Young works hard and plays harder

By Scott Gummer • Photographs by Joe Coca

Resting and relaxing in the Bahamas, Steve Young and family make the most of The

S

teve Young spent 15 years scrambling over, around, and through NFL defenses on his way to the Pro Football Hall of Fame, his body and mind always moving at a frenetic pace that he maintained

Abaco Club’s pink sand beaches,

away from the field as well. During his off-seasons, Young earned both a

turquoise waters, and the

bachelor’s degree and a law degree from Brigham Young University. After

islands’ top-ranked golf

retiring in 1999, he co-founded and serves as a managing director of a

course, where Young and

successful private equity and venture capital firm; founded and chairs the

Ultimate Escapes Chairman

Forever Young Foundation; starred in a series of hilarious commercials

Rich Keith teed it up.

for Toyota; and stays connected to pro football by lending insights as an analyst for ESPN.

Ultimately, it took a trio of tots to slow Young down. “With three small children, when we finally pack everyone and everything up and get out of town, it is to someplace really relaxing,” says Young, who, despite his alarmingly full plate, is an ardent adherent to the maxim that a family that plays together stays together. “You can usually find me splashing around the pool with the kids.” Life is set to get even more blessedly 38

hectic for Young, his wife, Barbara, sons Braedon (7) and Jackson (5), and daughter Summer (2), with the impending arrival of a new baby girl. Since joining the club in 2005, Young has made use of his membership for work and for play, residing in New York City while covering the NFL draft and taking family vacations that range from Hawaii to the Bahamas. “We are location agnostic,” he says. “We are skiers and love Park

key west

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afternoon, and I was playing by myself. The ball rolled into the cup, and I immediately looked all around to see if someone, anyone, saw it, but there was no one there to witness it. It really did happen, I swear.” The club’s diverse offerings are an ideal fit for Young’s wanderlust. “I have been to Israel a number of times, and my forays to Europe in the past make me want to go back,” he says, “but there are so many places and people I want to experience.” A history buff, Young has read extensively about Eastern Europe and Russia and is anxious to explore that dynamic part of the world. Also high on his list are the Middle East and Africa. “I am fascinated by different cultures, and my favorite thing is to land in a place where the people do not speak English and immerse myself in their culture.” Those sorts of bold sojourns may have to wait until Young’s young children get a bit bigger and more self-sufficient, but he promises, “When they get older we are going on all sorts of adventures.” Meanwhile, Young is perfectly content to be the doting dad who plays in the surf and builds sand castles on the beach. “After our baby comes, we will head back to Hawaii,” says Young, who keeps his favorite family photo close at hand on his BlackBerry. “The picture was taken on the Big Island: the kids are wiped out from swimming and playing all day, the lighting is gorgeous, we all have a golden two-week tan and look relaxed and happy. It’s just...perfect.”

City, Utah, but it is as wonderful a place in the summer as it is in the winter.” Last winter, the family spent their holiday on Abaco in the Bahamas. “There is a special spirit there at Christmastime that we long to enjoy again.” Famous for playing football with the energy and reckless abandon of the Tasmanian Devil, Young is hard to picture sitting still. “It has always been my nature to get out and go and see and do,” says Young. “I strive to strike a balance in life, and I have to admit that lately I have found some joy in just kicking back and relaxing.” Nowadays, his competitive juices are largely channeled on the golf course. “My handicap is three ... kids,” he jokes. When he can find time to play, Young hovers around a 10 handicap. He has carded a personal best of 74, and once fired a hole-in-one—or so he says. “It happened at the Riverside Country Club in Provo, Utah,” recalls Young. “It was late in the 40

STEVE YOUNG’S TROPHY CASE Pro Football Hall of Fame Three Super Bowl championships Super Bowl XXIX Most Valuable Player Two-time NFL Most Valuable Player Seven-time Pro Bowl selection Highest NFL career quarterback rating Most NFL career quarterback rushing touchdowns Most touchdown passes in a Super Bowl

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■ GOLF

THE SWEETEST SWING By Kevin Cook

For a father and son, nothing could be finer than to golf the Carolinas

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IT’S A PARENTING PARADOX: AS THE

I DIDN’T WANT THAT TO HAPPEN TO MY

KIDS GROW OLD ENOUGH TO SHARE

14-YEAR-OLD SON, CAL, AND ME. SO

SOME OF THEIR FOLKS’ INTERESTS,

WE TOSSED OUR GOLF CLUBS IN THE

EVERYBODY GETS SO BUSY THERE’S

TRUNK AND HIT THE HIGHWAY, JUST

NO TIME TO DO THINGS TOGETHER.

THE TWO OF US.

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We zipped down the Jersey Turnpike from Manhattan past D.C., not bothering to slow down while Cal snapped photos from the car. Our memory of the Washington Monument is a digital blur. From there, we motored past Blue Ridge peaks to South of the Border, a gloriously tacky pit stop on the state line between the Carolinas, where spotlights trace the sky over 20 shops and fast-food joints, two filling stations, and an arcade under a huge, illuminated, revolving sombrero. We got gas (from the pump and the food), stretched our legs, rolled a game of Skee-Ball, and grabbed a couple bottles of Gatorade Tiger, the new ultra-hydration drink that suggests one key difference between Tiger Woods and your typical creaky, 50-year-old golfer: Tiger is better hydrated.

WE TOSSED OUR GOLF CLUBS IN THE TRUNK AND HIT THE HIGHWAY, JUST THE TWO OF US. Heading east off I-95, we followed the road to land’s end and a garden spot that has been put to its perfect use. Golf put Kiawah Island, South Carolina, on the proverbial map back in 1991 with the playing of the Ryder Cup, an event etched in golf history as “The War by the Shore.” Golf’s funniest man, Ultimate Escapes member David Feherty, who beat the late Payne Stewart in that epic Ryder Cup, quips, “The Ocean Course will eat you alive.” If nothing else, Cal and I would make it a fully hydrated meal. We settled into the tastiest digs any two duffers could dream of: a 3,500-square-foot Elite Club beach home with panoramic views of the Atlantic, a swimming pool and Jacuzzi, a kitchen that would render Gordon Ramsay speechless, a fire crackling in the hearth, several big-screen TVs, and a cabinet full of board games. Weary teen traveler Cal collapsed into the hammock on the deck while the old man sneaked out to play in the backyard: the par-three 16th hole at Kiawah’s Jack Nicklausdesigned Turtle Point Golf Club. SM

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After a quick dip in the pool, we made the short, sandy walk up the beach to the Sanctuary at Kiawah Island, a resort where the staircases are ready for Gone with the Wind close-ups and the Jasmine Porch restaurant boasts a Sunday jazz brunch that was music to our taste buds. I indulged in shrimp and grits, while Cal opted for the beef brisket sliders. We were both captivated by Kiawah’s grand, historic homes—the likes of which we do not see in New York City—and we wished

we could have experienced the Annual Fall Tours of Homes and Gardens, an event that allows lookee-loos to sneak a peek inside. Our garden tour would be limited to the resort’s five first-rate golf courses: Turtle Point; Cougar Point, designed by Gary Player; Tom Fazio’s sporty, watery Osprey Point; architect Clyde Johnston’s Oak Point, a rolling layout on an old tomato and indigo plantation; and the real point of any trip to Kiawah, the incomparable Ocean Course.

A classic links with tricks up its sleeve—Golf Digest calls it the toughest resort course in America—the Ocean Course boasts more seaside holes than any other course in the Northern Hemisphere. It is cruel from the tournament tips but great fun if you pick the right tees. I played from the blue tees, trimming the yardage from a Tiger-ish 7,296 yards down to 6,552, while Cal played the junior tees. That made the third hole an uphill 268-yard par-four for the lad, who smacked 45


architect Rees Jones carved the Currituck Club out of wild linksland between Currituck Sound and the Atlantic. Just up the road is the Wright Brothers National Memorial, where Orville and Wilbur made history in 1903. A lesser-known Outer Banks landmark is The Brew Thru, where “cartenders” deliver snacks, soft drinks, and even grown-up libations. Our Signature Club home was, as advertised, the ultimate escape, with a wraparound porch overlooking the ninth green, a fridge filled with groceries courtesy of our concierge, a barbecue grill, a backyard putting green, and, best of all, an upstairs game room with a widescreen TV/PlayStation console and a pool table. Let the games begin! The Currituck course is a moody beauty. Every hole can kill you or embrace you, depending on the wind. In 24 hours the short par-four ninth morphed from easy—driver, sand wedge—to nasty—driver, three-iron, sand wedge. Trickier still was the tree-lined 14th hole, where I amused my son by clonking and bonking my way to a quintuple-bogey nine that I knew I would never live down. “Dad,” said Cal in a voice tinged with respectful sarcasm, “how could you make a nine?” “Well, son,” I replied, “I missed a short putt for eight.” Around midnight, as we barreled back up the interstate, a Yankees baseball game came scratching through the car radio. The sound of home. Still wearing my new Ocean Course cap, I looked at Cal trying to stay awake for Derek Jeter’s at bat, and I pictured the homes, the golf, the gator, the dolphins, the deer, and the highlight: my son’s unadulterated joy at rolling home a chip-in at the Currituck Club. Suddenly my quintuple-bogey did not seem so bad. After all, I had also made the best swing of my life: a father-son golf swing that turned out to be the perfect 2,000-mile drive. SM

a drive and hit a short iron to birdie range, while I enjoyed my wayward view of lush marshes and sunbathing alligators, one of which seemed to like the looks of my new Pro V1 so much I decided not to fight him for it. The back nine tracks the shoreline. Dolphins curl through the waves a hundred yards out. After sinking our putts at the 18th

Market. At dusk, Cal and I slipped out to take a few more swings on the course between the house and the beach, where we experienced this indelible scene: as he stepped around a dwarf palmetto bush, Cal found himself nose-to-nose with a deer, a gorgeous doe that studied him for a long moment before she loped off toward the putting green.

“Dad, how Could you makE a ninE?” “WEll, son, I missEd a short putt For Eight.” hole, a grandly demanding par-four that will provide a dramatic finish for the 2012 PGA Championship, Cal and I toasted the round in the Ryder Cup Bar inside Kiawah’s sparkling new $24 million clubhouse, where the adult beverage of choice is a toasty, tasty Palmetto Amber beer. For dinner that night I cooked (OK, microwaved) seared sirloin quesadillas and shrimp étouffée takeout from Shrimper’s at the nearby Straw 46

From Kiawah it’s a pleasant day’s drive to the Outer Banks of North Carolina, where

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■ EXCERPT

The Art of Racing in the Rain In this inventive New York Times bestseller, Enzo, a dog who has educated himself by watching television extensively and listening intently to his racecar driving master, reflects on what he has learned in this world as he prepares for the wonders of the next. 5

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Excerpted from The Art of Racing in the Rain by Garth Stein, published May 2008 by HarperCollins Publishers; © 2008 by the author.

I never knew my father. The people on the farm told Denny that he was a shepherd-poodle mix, but I don’t believe it. I never saw a dog that looked like that on the farm, and while the lady was nice, the alpha man was mean and would look you in the eyes and lie even if telling the truth would serve him better. He expounded at length on the relative intelligence of dog breeds, and he firmly believed

He picked me out of a pile of puppies, a tangled, rolling mass of paws and ears and tails, behind

that shepherds and poodles were the smart ones, and therefore would be more desirable—and more

a barn in a smelly field near a town in Eastern Washington called Spangle. I don’t remember much

valuable—when “bred back to a lab for temperament.” All a bunch of junk. Everyone knows that

about where I came from, but I remember my mother, a heavy lab with pendulous teats that swung to

shepherds and poodles aren’t especially smart. They’re responders and reactors, not independent

and fro as my littermates and I chased them down from across the yard. Honestly, our mother didn’t

thinkers. Especially the blue-eyed sheep dogs from Down Under that people make such a fuss over

seem to like us much, and she was fairly indifferent to whether we ate or starved. She seemed relieved

when they catch a Frisbee. Sure, they’re clever and quick, but they don’t think outside the box; they’re

whenever one of us left. One fewer yipping mammal tracking her down to bleed her of her milk.

all about convention.

(Conti nued on page 50)

Man’s closest relative is not the chimpanzee, as the TV people believe, but is, in fact, the dog.

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…a hand reached into the pile and found my scruff and suddenly I was dangling high in the air.

I’m sure my father was a terrier. Because terriers are problem solvers. They’ll do what you tell them, but only if it happens to be in line with what they wanted to do anyway. There was a terrier like that on the farm. An Airedale. Big and brown-black and tough. No one messed with him. He didn’t stay with us in the gated field behind the house. He stayed in the barn down the hill by the creek where the men went to fix their tractors. But sometimes he would come up the hill, and when he did, everyone steered clear. Word in the field was he was a fighting dog the alpha man kept separate because he’d kill a dog for sniffing in his direction. He’d rip the fur from a nape because of a lazy glance. I’ve often wondered if he sired me. I have his brown-black coloring and my coat is slightly wiry, and people frequently comment that I must be part terrier. I like to think I came from a determined gene pool. I remember the heat on the day I left the farm. Every day was hot in Spangle and I thought the world was just a hot place because I never knew what cold was about. I had never seen rain, didn’t know much about water. Water was the stuff in the buckets that the older dogs drank, and it was the stuff the alpha man sprayed out of the hose and into the faces of dogs who might want to pick a fight. But the day Denny arrived was exceptionally hot. My littermates and I were tussling around like we always did, and a hand reached into the pile and found my scruff and suddenly I was dangling high in the air. “This one,” a man said. It was my first glimpse of the rest of my life. He was slender, with long and lean muscles. Not a large man, but assertive. He had keen, icy blue eyes. His choppy hair and short, scruffy beard were dark and wiry, like an Irish terrier. “The pick of the litter,” the lady said. She was nice; I always liked it when she cuddled us in her soft lap. “The sweetest. The best.” “We were thinkin’a keepin’‘im,” the alpha man said, stepping up with his big boots caked with mud from the creek where he was patching a fence. That was the line he always used. Hell, I was a pup only a dozen weeks old and I’d already heard that line a bunch of times. He used it to get more money. “Will you let him go?” “Fur a price,” the alpha-man said, squinting at the sky, bleached a pale blue by the sun. “Fur a price.” 5

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“Very gently. Like there are eggshells on your pedals,” Denny always says, “and you don’t want to break them. That’s how you drive in the rain.” When we watch videos together—which we’ve done ever since the very first day I met him—he explains these

50

things to me. (To me!) Balance, anticipation, patience. These are all vital. Peripheral vision, seeing things you’ve never seen before. Kinesthetic sensation, driving by the seat-of-the-pants. But what I’ve always liked best is when he talks about having no memory. No memory of things he’d done just a second before. Good or bad. Because a memory is time folding back on itself. To remember is to disengage from the present. In order to reach any kind of success in automobile racing, a driver must never remember. Which is why drivers compulsively record their every move, their every race, with cockpit cameras, in-car video, data mapping; a driver cannot be a witness to his own greatness. This is what Denny says. He says racing is doing. It is being a part of a moment and being aware of nothing else but that moment. Reflection must come at a later time. The great champion, Julian SabellaRosa, has said, “When I am racing, my mind and my body are working so quickly and so well together, I must be sure not to think, or else I will definitely make a mistake.” 5

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Denny moved me far from the farm in Spangle, to a Seattle neighborhood called Leschi where he lived in a little apartment he rented on Lake Washington. I didn’t enjoy apartment living much, as I was used to wide open spaces and I was very much a puppy; still, we had a balcony that overlooked the lake, which gave me pleasure since I am part water dog, on my mother’s side. I grew quickly, and, during that first year, Denny and I forged a deep fondness for each other, as well as a feeling of trust. Which is why I was surprised when he fell in love with Eve so quickly. He brought her home and she was sweet smelling, like him. Full of fermented drinks that made them both act funny, they were hanging on each other, like they had too many clothes between them, and they were pulling at each other, tugging, biting lips and jabbing fingers and yanking at hair, all elbows and toes and saliva. She patted my head, which hovered low to the floor, me still being immature at just over a year old. She said, “You don’t mind if I love him, too, do you? I won’t come between you.” I respected her for asking, but I knew that she would come between us, and I found her preemptive denial to be disingenuous. I tried not to act off-putting because I knew how infatuated Denny was with her. But I admit I was less than embracing of her presence. And because of that, she was less than embracing of me. We were both satellites orbiting Denny’s sun, struggling for gravitational supremacy. Of course, she had the advantage of her tongue and her thumbs, and when I watched her kiss

and fondle him sometimes she would glance at me and wink as if to gloat: Look at my thumbs! See what they can do! 5

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Monkeys have thumbs. Practically the dumbest species on the planet, next to the duck-billed platypus, who make their dens underwater even though they breathe the air. The platypus is horribly stupid, but is only slightly dumber than a monkey. Yet monkeys have thumbs. Those monkey-thumbs were meant for dogs. Give me my thumbs, you monkeys! (I love the Al Pacino remake of Scarface, very much, though it doesn’t compare to the Godfather movies, which are excellent.) I watch too much TV. When Denny goes away in the mornings, he turns it on for me, and it’s become a habit. He warned me not to watch all day, but I do. Fortunately, he knows I love cars, so he lets me watch a lot of Speed Channel. The classic races are the best, and I especially like Formula One. I like NASCAR, too, but I prefer it when they race on the road circuits. While racing is my favorite, Denny told me it was good for me to have variety in my life, so he often puts on other channels, which I enjoy very much as well. Sometimes if I’m watching the History Channel or the Discovery Channel or PBS or even one of the kids’channels—when Zoë was little I’d end up spending half the day trying to pry goofy jingles out of my brain—I learn about other cultures and other ways of life, and then I start thinking about my own place in the world and what makes sense and what doesn’t. They talk a lot about Darwin; pretty much every educational channel has some kind of show about evolution at some point, and it’s usually really well thought out and researched. However, I don’t understand why people insist on pitting the concepts of evolution and creation against each other. Why can’t they see that spiritualism and science are one? That bodies evolve and souls evolve and the universe is a fluid place that marries them both in a wonderful package called a human being. What’s wrong with that idea? The scientific theorists go on and on about how monkeys are the closest evolutionary relative of people. But that’s speculation. Based on what? Based on the fact that certain ancient craniums have been found to be similar to modern man’s? What does that prove? Based on the fact that some primates walk on two feet? Being bipedal isn’t even an advantage. Look at the human foot, full of bent toes and calcium deposits and pus draining from ingrown claws that aren’t even hard enough to scratch at the earth. (And yet, how I yearn for the moment my soul inhabits one of these poorly designed bipedal bodies and I, too, assume the health concerns of a man!) So what if

man’s body evolved from the monkeys? Whether he came from monkeys or fish is unimportant. The important idea is that when the body became “human” enough, the first human soul slipped into it. I’ll give you a theory: Man’s closest relative is not the chimpanzee, as the TV people believe, but is, in fact, the dog. Witness my logic: Case-in-Point #1: The Dew Claw It is my opinion that the so-called “dew claw,” which is often snipped off a dog’s foreleg at an early age, is actually evidence of a pre-emergent thumb. Further, I believe that men have systematically bred the thumb out of certain lines of dog through an elaborate process called “selective breeding,” simply in order to prevent dogs from evolving into dexterous, and therefore “dangerous” mammals. I also believe that man’s continued domestication (if you care to use that silly euphemism) of dogs is motivated by fear: fear that dogs, left to evolve on their own, would, in fact, develop thumbs and smaller tongues, and therefore would be superior to men, who are slow and cumbersome, standing erect as they do. This is why dogs must live under the constant supervision of people, and are immediately put to death when found living on their own. From what Denny has told me about the government and its inner workings, it is my belief that this despicable plan was hatched in a backroom of none other than The White House, probably by an evil advisor to a president of questionable moral and intellectual fortitude, and probably with the correct assessment—unfortunately, made from a position of paranoia rather than of spiritual insight—that all dogs are progressively inclined regarding social issues. Case-in-Point #2: The Werewolf The full moon rises. The fog clings to the lowest branches of the spruce trees. The man steps out of the darkest corner of the forest and finds himself transformed into.… A monkey? I think not.

Yet monkeys have thumbs. Those monkey-thumbs were meant for dogs.

Garth Stein is also the author of the novels How Evan Broke His Head and Other Secrets and Raven Stole the Moon. After spending 18 years in New York City, he returned to his hometown of Seattle, where he currently lives with his family and his dog, Comet. artofracingintherain.com

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â–  Art

Utah A P h o t o g r a p h i c Journey B y R obb Ke n d r ic k

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Heli-skiing near Park City 53


National Geographic commissioned photographer Robb Kendrick to capture scenes around Utah prior to the state’s hosting the 2002 Winter Olympic Games. From peaks to valleys, Kendrick’s images portray the majesty and tranquility that make this place a truly unique and compelling escape.

Moose meander beside an alpine lake

The season’s first snowfall adorns aspens

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The Wasatch range

Great Salt Lake

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Ski patrol

STILL Cowboys at the Start of the Twenty-First Century Robb Kendrick’s passion is tintypes, a centuryold wet-plate technique of handcrafting photographs. A regular contributor to National Geographic, his art graced the cover of the magazine’s December 2007 issue, as well as the cover of its book In Focus: National Geographic Greatest Portraits. Snowbird resort at dusk

In Still, Kendrick presents an eloquent collection of tintype cowboy photographs taken on ranches across fourteen states of the American West, as well as in British Columbia, Canada, and Coahuila, Mexico. The photographs reveal the rich variety of people who are drawn to the cowboying life—women as well as men; Native Americans, Mexican Americans, and African Americans as well as Anglos. The images also show regional variations in dress and gear, from the “taco” rolled-brim hats of Texas cowpunchers to the braided rawhide reatas of Oregon buckaroos.

Fly-fishing the Provo River

For more information or to order Still or fine art prints of Robb Kendrick’s work, please visit robbkendrick.com, e-mail kendrick@moment.net or call 512-426-4655. Heli skiers with the Great Salt Lake on the horizon

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■ 20 questions

“It’s only fitting that David McLay Kidd leaves his giant footprints on the sacred sod of St. Andrews. Now a masterpiece is written about a masterpiece that is built. A book that will be read and discussed for as long as the great game of golf is played.”—Jim Nantz, CBS Sports

Tony By Scott Gummer

1 BEST AIRPORT LOUNGE? Virgin Atlantic Clubhouse at Heathrow in London

2 WINDOW OR AISLE SEAT? Window, so I can lean on the wall and fall asleep

3 WHAT IS ALWAYS IN YOUR CARRY-ON? T-Mobile Sidekick, Apple MacBook Pro, iPod, and my Canon G9 camera

4 PREFERRED AIRPLANE ATTIRE? Jeans and T-shirt. I also bring a sweatshirt to keep warm when the air conditioning is cranking that doubles as a pillow

5 FIRST BEVERAGE YOU ORDER FROM THE FLIGHT ATTENDANT? Coca-Cola

6 WHEN AND WHERE WAS YOUR FIRST RIDE ON AN AIRPLANE? From San Diego to Honolulu with my parents when I was eight

7 HOW DO YOU WHILE AWAY THE HOURS ON LONG FLIGHTS? Returning e-mails that I’ve been ignoring

8 FIRST THING YOU DO WHEN YOU GET TO YOUR HOTEL ROOM? Connect to the Internet and send all the e-mails I wrote on the plane

9 ROOM SERVICE STAPLE? Oatmeal, croissant, and cappuccino in the morning

10 DESSERT TO DIE FOR? Profiteroles with hazelnut gelato, hot fudge sauce from Chateau Marmont in Hollywood

Hawk

Photo By Matthew Welch

11 GUILTY TELEVISION PLEASURE? Psychic Kids on A&E

12 ARTISTS DOMINATING YOUR IPOD? Nine Inch Nails, Beck, Jane’s Addiction, Joe Strummer

13 LAST GOOD BOOK YOU READ? First They Killed My Father: A Daughter of Cambodia Remembers by Loung Ung

14 LAST GOOD MOVIE YOU SAW? Be Kind Rewind

15 FIRST SECTION OF THE NEWSPAPER YOU READ? The home page of CNN.com

16 FAVORITE GETAWAY? Amanpuri on the island of Phuket, Thailand

17 PLACE YOU HAVE NEVER BEEN BUT ARE LONGING TO GO? Shanghai, home of the world’s largest skatepark

18 UNFULFILLED LIFE EXPERIENCE ATOP YOUR TO-DO LIST? Take my Boom Boom HuckJam tour overseas

19 THING YOU MISS MOST WHEN AWAY FROM HOME? Skating in private and driving my Jeep SRT8

20 WORDS TO LIVE BY Enjoy the ride!

Now available in paperback A member of Penguin Group (USA) • www.penguin.com

www.7thCourse.com

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■ Destination Stay :: One Elite Club mountain lodge, 4 bedroom / 4 bath, 4,483 square feet, post-and-beam design. Two Signature Club homes, 3 bedroom / 3 bath, 1,930 square feet, located at Topnotch Resort and Spa. One Premiere Club property, 3 bedroom / 3 bath, 1,900 square feet, also at Topnotch Resort and Spa. SM

SM

SM

Play :: Stowe Country Club is short, at 6,200 yards, but plenty challenging for low handicappers while friendly to recreational golfers. The nearby Stowe Golfpark is a fun and impressively landscaped miniature golf course. Skiing at Stowe Mountain resort opens November 22. Hikers, bikers, and walkers share the five-mile Stowe Recreation Path, a trail that gently winds through forests and meadows and over eleven arched wooden bridges. Eat :: Breakfast of champions: the Dutch Pancake Café at the Grey Fox Inn serves eighty varieties of the traditional pannekoeken, decadent crepe-like pancakes with scrumptious ingredients baked right in. Take the gondola to the top of Mount Mansfield, Vermont’s tallest peak, for a memorable lunch at the newly renovated Cliff House restaurant. The Traditional Fondue Experience at Restaurant Swisspot features Swiss Cheese Fondue with artisan French Bread, Beef and Shrimp Fondue with a selection of dipping sauces, followed by Chocolate Fondue with fresh fruit and cakes. Drink :: Stowe’s local brewpub, The Shed, makes tasty handcrafted beers, including a Maple Porter in springtime. Kids love the homemade root beer. The hot spot for après-golf and après-ski cocktails is the Hourglass bar in the new Stowe Mountain Lodge, where they also serve afternoon tea.

Stowe , Vermont By Lisa Highsmith

www.VermontVacation.com

1-800-VERMONT

Be Merry :: Peak fall foliage season varies, but a safe bet is always the last week of September through the first two weeks of October. Visit GoStowe.com for recommended driving routes. The 26th Annual Stowe Foliage Art and Craft Festival on Columbus Day weekend brings together two hundred artisans for one of New England’s superlative arts and crafts festivals; do not miss the Vermont Beer, Cheese, and Sausage tent. For dessert, or just a fun and fascinating outing, take the Ben & Jerry’s ice cream factory tour.

ESCAPES 61


â–  DIRECTORY

T he World of Ulti mate Esc apes

ÂŽ

Elite Club

SM

Beaches & Shores Abaco, Bahamas Indian Rocks Beach, Florida Key West, Florida Los Cabos, Mexico Maui, Hawaii Nevis, British West Indies Palm Beach, Florida St. Thomas, US Virgin Islands WaterColor, Florida

Metropolitan London, England New York City, New York Paris, France

Golf & Leisure Kiawah Island, South Carolina La Quinta, California Lake Las Vegas, Nevada Naples, Florida Scottsdale, Arizona

Mountains & Trails Beaver Creek, Colorado Deer Valley, Utah Jackson Hole, Wyoming Lake Tahoe, Nevada

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Steamboat Springs, Colorado Stowe, Vermont Sun Valley, Idaho Telluride, Colorado

Signature Club

SM

Beaches & Shores Abaco, Bahamas Big Island, Hawaii BVI Yacht Costa Rica Los Cabos, Mexico Maui, Hawaii Miami Beach, Florida Nevis, British Virgin Islands Palm Beach, Florida Punta Cana, Dominican Republic Turks & Caicos WaterColor, Florida

Metropolitan Chicago, Illinois London, England New York City, New York

Mountains & Trails Breckenridge, Colorado Copper Mountain, Colorado Deer Valley, Utah

Jackson Hole, Wyoming Lake Tahoe, Nevada Steamboat Springs, Colorado Stowe, Vermont Telluride, Colorado

Golf & Leisure Bend, Oregon Candlewood Lake, Connecticut Kiawah Island, South Carolina LA Costa, California La Quinta, California Lake George, New York Naples, Florida Orlando, Florida Outer Banks, North Carolina Reynolds Plantation, Georgia Scottsdale, Arizona Tuscany, Italy

Premiere Club

SM

Beaches & Shores Belize City, Belize Big Island, Hawaii BVI Yacht Costa Rica Los Cabos, Mexico Miami Beach, Florida Punta Cana, Dominican Republic

Punta Mita, Mexico Turks & Caicos WaterColor, Florida

Metropolitan Chicago, Illinois New York City, New York

Mountains & Trails Beaver Creek, Colorado Jackson Hole, Wyoming Lake Tahoe, Nevada Steamboat Springs, Colorado Stowe, Vermont

Golf & Leisure Fox Acres, Colorado Kiawah Island, South Carolina Carlsbad, California La Quinta, California Lake Las Vegas, Nevada Naples, FlorIda Outer Banks, North Carolina Reynolds Plantation, Georgia Scottsdale, Arizona Tuscany, Italy

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Tabitha Soren

â–  Moments

London 64

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PRIVATE JETS ARE THE CURE FOR MANY THINGS. COULD THE COMMON COLD BE ONE OF THEM? Sniff. Sniff. Achoo! Alas, we’ve all been there—that window seat mere inches from a walking epidemic. Sometimes it’s just a cold. Other times it’s the flu or worse. Colds are just one of many ailments that increase the human toll of air travel—and this comes with a price tag. When key executives’ productivity suffers, this can directly affect their company’s bottom line. And that’s nothing to sneeze at. Fortunately, there is a remedy: Flexjet.* Simply put, the “private” in private jet makes getting sick on the road far less likely. Then there are the other maladies we provide relief from—inflexible flight schedules, indirect routes, commuting to major airports, a chaotic and unproductive flight environment, poor service and unexpected delays and cancellations. At Flexjet, we offer private jet fractional ownership, whole aircraft ownership and management, and jet card† solutions. For more on how we can help you identify the right prescription for all your travel ills, call 1-866-891-9237 or visit Flexjet.com. For a second opinion, get straight talk from plane people.

©2008 Bombardier Inc. *Trademark(s) of Bombardier Inc. or its subsidiaries. Please visit Flexjet.com for terms and conditions. †Flexjet 25 Jet Card program is operated under FAR Part 135 by Jet Solutions, LLC.


ESCAPES magazine