SPRING/SUMMER 2017 O L D
B I L L I N G S G AT E ,
L O N D O N
ISSUE 01 S C O O P - I N T E R N AT I O N A L . C O M
_ Inside Issue 01
Take a look inside this seasonâ€™s new venue. The most sought-after collections for S/S 17. Inside Scoop: Meet the iconic Lulu Guinness.
02 | New Venue
O L D
B I L L I N G S G A T E , 2 4 - 2 6
J U L Y
E A S T
L O N D O N
2 0 1 6
BILLINGSGATE, 1 OLD BILLINGSGATE EAST LONDON, EC3R 6DX
WA L K ,
Cover Image: Beatrice B
Scoop FirstTravel Word | 00 03
church Ave Llo
e Av ’s
M ILLIA W
R THA M
St Mar y at Hi ll
Monument to the Great Fire of London
ES ST REET
Min cing Ln
LONDO N BRID GE
To visit Old Billingsgate, we recommend using London's excellent public transport links as this is by far the quickest way to reach the venue… TUBE
F R O M O LY M P I A L O N D O N
Nearest tube station: Monument (0.2 miles) Travel directly to
Tube/Rail: Visitors travelling to Old Billingsgate from Olympia
Monument by the District or Circle lines. Old Billingsgate is
London can reach us via Olympia’s dedicated rail station
a 5 minute walk away. Alternatively use the escalator from
– Kensington (Olympia). Olympia London is also serviced by
Bank (Northern, Waterloo & City lines and Docklands Light
a number of tube stations.
Railway). Suggested route if travelling from Kensington (Olympia)
station to Old Billingsgate: Take the London Overground to
Nearest railway stations: Liverpool Street, Cannon Street,
West Brompton Underground Station. Next, take the District
London Bridge & Fenchurch Street (all 0.3 miles). Old
line towards Tower Hill Underground Station or Barking
Billingsgate is a 10 minute walk away.
Underground Station. Alight at Monument Underground Station.
CAR 2 minute drive from London Bridge. 15 minutes from the West
We advise you to plan your journey from Kensington (Olympia)
End. 25 minute drive from junction 30, M25. Easy access from
by visiting the Olympia London website:
central London. Easy access to M25, M20, M2, A3, A12,
A13, M1, A406 (North circular) and the Blackwall Tunnel.
SCOOP CAR SERVICE Car/taxi drop off point: St Mary at Hill, London, EC3R 8EE
A complimentary car service will also be available for visitors
(Old Billingsgate is on Lower Thames Street. Located opposite
travelling from Olympia to Old Billingsgate. Approximate
the St Mary at Hill car/taxi drop off point. See map above).
journey time of 45 minutes.
PA R K I N G
To book a car call 07836 722 219 between the following
Nearest car park: Tower Hill Corporation of London Car and
Coach Park (opposite Sugar Quay). 50 Lower Thames Street,
Sunday 24 July: 9.30am – 3pm
London, EC3R 6DT (250m Old Billingsgate is a 2 minute walk
Monday 25 July: 9.30am – 3pm
Tuesday 26 July: 9.30am – 12pm
AT S C O O P A N D T H E C I T Y 2 4 - 2 6 J U LY 2 0 1 6
Founder's Letter | 07
A newVENUE F O U N D E R ' S
L E T T E R
his season will see Scoop and Scoop London
Jelly and American vintage-inspired womenswear label
brought together under one roof, as London’s most
exciting trade fashion events take a break from
Chelsea for a unique, one-off edition at Old Billingsgate in
Iconic British designer Lulu Guinness has confirmed her
the heart of the City.
place at Scoop and the City this season. Famous for her much coveted handbags and accessories, SS17 is a
One of London’s most iconic venues, Old Billingsgate is
momentous season for the designer, as she exclusively
already home to some of the capital’s most glittering events,
launches her first footwear collection for over 10 years
and on 24-26 July this grade two Victorian landmark will
play host to over 250 womenswear, accessories, footwear and lifestyle collections at Scoop and the City.
Resortwear will be in an abundance this summer with collections from Soul Kathriné, Lisa Taylor Design, Beth &
Moments from Tower Bridge, seven minutes by tube from
Tracie Barbados, Albertine and our cover star Beatrice B
Oxford Circus, 30 minutes from Kensington Olympia,
confirmed for July.
just nine minutes from Kings Cross and a 3 minute walk away from Monument station, Scoop and the City at Old
Sought-after collections returning to the line-up this season
Billingsgate will be bringing you our most diverse and
range from Cacharel, Three Floor, Libertine-Libertine,
directional line-up yet. Amongst the raft of names showing
Kings of Indigo, Kate Spade New York Shoes, Hunkydory,
in London for the very first time are award-winning Rary
Duffy, Wood Wood and J. Lindeberg to name only a few,
by Michael van der Ham, Maison Labiche, Ziio Jewellery
making this season’s event unmissable.
and Arkk Copenhagen. I look forward to welcoming you to this season’s show. Loved by celebrities, trendsetters and top retailers worldwide, iconic denim brand Levi’s will be making its Scoop debut this season with its premium collection, Made
Founder & Managing Director
& Crafted , alongside Portuguese shoe brand Lemon
Scoop International Fashion Shows
08 | Area Code
Kate Evans OWNER OF PRECIOUS
I am really spoilt for choice with so many great restaurants and shops in the area. Favourites for lunch or supper include Super Tuscan on Artillery Passage for authentic Italian food and wine, cocktails at the Looking Glass on Hackney Road and fabulous blow drys from Blow Dry Express on Artillery Passage.
•Blow Dry Express•
•Friends of Ours•
Victoria Haddon C R E AT I V E D I R E C T O R AT H U D S O N S H O E S
East London is very much in our DNA. One of our founding members was born and raised in Hackney and our offices have been in Hoxton for 12 years. There seems to be something new to discover on a weekly basis. I really love how Pitfield Street is being transformed at the moment. I love The Pitfield for amazing interiors and cake, brunch at Friends of Ours or pizza and a pint at the George & Vulture.
•Looking Glass Cocktail Club•
Area Code | 09
Located at Old Billingsgate in East London, Scoop and the City is within easy access of Spitalfields and fashionable Shoreditch… We spoke to some of the industry’s most exciting fashionistas to discover the best of the local area.
Susanne Holm WOMENSWEAR UK SALES M A N AG E R AT J . L I N D B E R G
•Columbia Road flower market•
I love working in East London as there is always something new going on. The whole area has a very young and creative vibe which I love, and you almost always find something to get inspired by on the way to work. There are also a lot of good food outlets and restaurants around which I love… I always bring visiting friends over to East London and it’s so nice to see how inspired and happy they get after a stroll on Colombia Road looking at flowers.
Rohina Kumar F O U N D E R O F H OXT O N H AU S
Even if the view wasn't what it was, the Japanese-Brazilian fusion food at Sushi Samba would still be worth a visit. Incidentally, the view from the 38th floor of Heron tower is one of the city’s best and the hanging lights from the ceiling create a cool atmosphere which never gets old. •Sushi Samba•
12 | Flower Power
Flower Power | 13
14 | In love with Scoop
inLOVE B U Y E R S WE SPOKE TO THE PEOPLE BEHIND SOME OF THE INDUSTRY’S MOST RENOWNED PREMIUM FASHION RETAILERS AND DESIGNER LABELS TO HEAR WHY THEY LOVE SCOOP.
Melanie Press PRESS, PRIMROSE HILL
Debra McCann OWNER , THE MERC ANTILE LONDON
Scoop is always a pleasure to visit. We buy a lot of brands for the store so I need to view all the options in a creative and stimulating environment to make the right decisions. It’s really important that I spend the budget in the best way, seeking out the right product. We owe that to our customers who are quite a savvy bunch.
When I first heard that Karen Radley was launching a fashion trade fair, I was immediately intrigued because I trust Karen as a fashion expert who 'gets' the needs of a fashion buyer. Whether it's the latest shoe, or a hot new scarf designer, Scoop is the destination. Karen has carefully curated an interesting array of new brands, alongside the UK's top multi-brand showrooms. The overall experience is a considered one, and it’s well worth prioritising Scoop within your fashion calendar.
Pascale Camart HEAD OF WOMENSWEAR BUYING, GALERIES L AFAYET TE
Scoop offers a wide range of contemporary collections which are showcased in a unique, fresh and vibrant buying environment.
he overall experience is a considered one, and it’s well worth prioritising Scoop within your fashion calendar."
In love with Scoop | 15
inLOVE E X H I B I T O R S
Ulrich Scheibelein SALES & MARKETING DIRECTOR , WOOD WOOD
It is Wood Wood’s primary goal to expand its retailer network and accelerate growth within the UK market in the coming seasons and we have identified Scoop as the right platform to do so. We believe that Scoop’s quality and quantity go hand in hand with the buyers and retailers visiting the fair. We are confident that participating in Scoop will contribute to our growth plans moving ahead.
Dea Kudibal DESIGNER & CREATIVE DIRECTOR , DEA KUDIBAL
Scoop has been an essential part of establishing Dea Kudibal into the UK and Ireland. The show has enabled us to showcase the brand in a beautiful setting and find the right long-term boutique partners that we can grow the brand with. Since our first show we have seen over 50% growth season on season.
Mark Strudwick HEAD OF WHOLESALE, LULU GUINNESS
Even as an established brand, it’s important for us to have a platform to showcase new product groups. Scoop gives us the perfect opportunity to engage with key buyers in a unique and stylish venue in the heart of the city.
Paloma Perez Silvosa ASSOCIATE DIRECTOR , SHOE FACTORY
Scoop brings to London a unique opportunity to work and showcase contemporary international collections. The show moves away from the format of macro tradeshows by providing an intimate atmosphere. As an agent, this is extremely important to me in order to look after my buyers in a comfortable, sophisticated, personal environment. Scoop is a high profile gathering of industry experts; press, suppliers and buyers. The show’s intimacy is the perfect frame to encourage trade relationships from incredibly inspiring locations. Karen Radley’s ability at curating the collections, welcoming the buyers, and making everyone feel like a VIP is second to none. On top of it I LOVE the flowers, the Champagne, the music, the food and the gorgeous hosts and hostesses!
16 | What's New
•Binetti & Love Binetti•
What's New | 17
18 | Designer Exposure
•Add My Berry•
Designer Exposure | 19
20 | East Coast •Sundry•
East Coast | 21
• Des Petits Hauts•
Scoop Checklist | 23
•Ziio Jewellery• •Loup Noir•
•Anna + Nina• •Bláithín Ennis•
•Lo La Lé Paris•
•Andia Fora • •Mirabelle Jewellery•
Accessories are bold and bright for spring/summer 2017 •Candice Cooper•
•Lulu Guinness• •Intua Jewellery•
24 | White Scoop
White Scoop | 25
Major Players | 27 | Campaign | 12
majorPLAYERS L U L U
G U I N N E S S
How would you sum up the Lulu Guinness brand?
Humorous, artistic, individual and not too serious! What inspires you?
I get my inspiration from pretty much anywhere and everywhere. Art is a huge influence on my designs, it’s very important to me. For example for my AW16 collection I took inspiration from Sonia Delaunay’s pop-up book created to coincide with her Retrospective Tate Modern Exhibition. Many celebrities have worn your designs, who was
Billingsgate space! I can always rely on Scoop for the crowd it pulls in, we have increased our wholesale presence since exhibiting there, which we are delighted with. What can buyers expect from your new collection?
I am so excited to show buyers my new shoe collection for SS17!! I haven’t designed shoes for over 10 years and I’m looking forward to seeing the reaction they get. Something I really wanted to maintain is that ‘second glance’ concept, I wanted the details to be slightly hidden at first and then revealed on the second glance – I love that!
your favourite and why?
That’s a hard one as I am always flattered whenever a celebrity wears one of my bags. I think Ilsa Fisher was up there as one of my favourites, I love that she has a sense of humour and she is very beautiful! Why do you love exhibiting at Scoop?
I love the locations Scoop go for, previously the Saatchi gallery was perfectly on brand for me and I am intrigued to see the
What has been your label’s greatest milestone?
When my Rose Basket was made a permanent part of the fashion collection within the V&A! As well as more recently we celebrated our 25th anniversary back in 2014 with a fantastic party during LFW, it was a brilliant event and showed us a lot of love for the brand. That meant a lot to me and gave me the determination to keep going for another 25 years!
28 | Scoop Notices
Kim Hyldahl C R E AT I V E D I R E C T O R , MOS MOSH
What is the background story to Mos Mosh?
Mos Mosh was born in 2010. The first collection concentrated on jeans and pants – well-fitted, made of high-end fabrics and with a clear visual signature. Quickly the brand grew and expanded with raw and delicate tops, rugged jackets and fine leather garments. Where does the name Mos Mosh come from?
I think Kate Moss is the most stylish woman in the world. I am fascinated by her and how she never puts a foot wrong with how she dresses. Even in a pair of skinny jeans and a blazer she looks faultlessly cool. So, this is where the name Mos Mosh comes from. In March I was thrilled to have Kate dressed head to toe in Mos Mosh at a celeb packed party in Germany. The Ozzy biker jeans she wore have become our best seller! How would you describe the signature of Mos Mosh?
Our collections are uncomplicated, simple, stylish and hard to live without. With a focus on unexpected details and quality fabrics we combine elements of Southern European sophisticated styling with cool Scandinavian silhouettes. What are you looking forward to the most about showing at Scoop and the City?
We already have a very strong customer base of premium boutiques up and down the country who are selling Mos Mosh exceptionally well, so our expectations for Scoop are to meet new and exciting retailers who want to join the Mos Mosh family and be part of the phenomenon. •Rary by Michael Van Der Ham •
Scoop Notices | 29
Allison Bard GL OBAL BRAND DIRECTOR , HELEN KAMINSKI
What is the background story to Helen Kaminski?
•Levi’s Made & Crafted•
In 1983, the brand’s founding designer, Helen Kaminski, handcrafted a raffia hat to protect her children from the searing Australian sun. One year later, a Vogue editor discovered her first design, the ‘Classic 5’, in a country boutique. More than 30 years later the brand is distributed in over 25 countries across five continents and is firmly established as a global leader in contemporary fashion accessories. How would you describe the signature style of the Helen Kaminski woman?
Relaxed elegance is the essence of Helen Kaminski women. The label's Australian ‘heart’ and heritage means casual chic is part of the brand DNA, and our signature transcends cultural barriers and geographic borders. What can buyers expect from your SS17 collection?
Innovative hats, bags and scarves in an abundance of colour, pattern and texture, taking diverse inspiration from boldly patterned Grecian tiles, fluid architectural forms and feminine Victorian details. What are you looking forward to the most about exhibiting at Scoop & the City?
Scoop represents the ideal confluence of the creative and the commercial, providing a unique platform to connect with highly selective retailers that value the innovation, style and authenticity that is the core of the brand. The intimacy of the Scoop & the City show offers a special environment to showcase the individuality and connectivity of each product category, highlight the craftsmanship of the brand, and foster meaningful connections with buyers.
30 | Last Point
•Rary by Michael Van Der Ham•
Last Point | 31
lastPOINT M I C H A E L
V A N
D E R
H A M
utch fashion designer Michael van der Ham graduated from Central Saint Martins and in 2009 launched his eponymous label. In 2013 Van der Ham won the British Fashion Councilâ€™s Fashion Forward prize and has since captured the attention of international stars including Keira Knightley, Kirsten Dunst, Diane Kruger, Claire Danes and Alexa Chung. Michaelâ€™s recognisable creative vision makes him one of the most sophisticated, independent designers on the London scene. Why did you decide to launch your own collection in 2009?
At the time of graduation my graduate collection was shown during the Central Saint Martins show. I was lucky enough to open the show and received a really positive response. Lulu Kennedy of Fashion East then gave me a chance to show at London Fashion Week and I grew the label from there on, bit by bit.
I use a lot of vintage fashion references. But instead of copying them, I use them as a starting point and re-fabricate and keep working into the designs. You have been involved in many collaborations and have designed costumes for celebrities including Bjork and Tori Amos. Are you currently working on any exciting projects?
signature Michael van der Ham style?
It differs each season but I suppose ornate textiles are the main component. I like to mix textiles and textures that normally don't match together too. Overall it's quite a feminine look. It's important to offer something that is kind of strange or odd in some way, I hate to end up with something twee! What inspires you when you are designing a collection?
Recently I worked on a series of bespoke gowns for Joanna Newsom's tour and a handmade bespoke dress for Kirsten Dunst's Cannes Film Festival appearance. SS17 will see the launch of your debut capsule collection for the Italian label Rary. What would you say has been the main inspiration behind the collection?
It's the largest collection I have worked on so far. It's actually split into 3 stories and a separate capsule.
There is a story in ivories and primary colours loosely based on antique Indian textiles. It's a reworked way of using decorative prints and using new base textiles mixed with them. A second part of the collection is all about abstract, small scale painterly prints again on a set of multi textured base fabrics. It came together after trying out various prints on metallics, mixing them with knits and abstract embroidery. Art Nouveau and Japanese prints make up a third story that is all about ornate placement prints featuring oversized florals and ornaments. For the additional capsule collection there are abstract fabrics like fringed Lurex, printed feathers on fuzzy base textiles and lots of metallics. The capsule was a more experimental approach to party dresses and knitwear. It's all about taking strange looking fabrics and working them into feminine pieces.
1 0 F E E T, 2 7 M I L E S M A L I B U , 2 N D D AY, 5 P R E V I E W, A D D M Y B E R RY, A I R F I E L D , A L B E R T I N E , A L E X A N D R A V O LTA N , A L I C E I N P E R F U M E , A L P H A M O M E N T, AMA PURE, AMINA RUBINACCI, AMUSE, ANDIA FORA, ANGELA CAPUTI G I U G G I Ù , A N N A + N I N A , A R C H E , A R K K C O P E N H A G E N , AT E L I E R S D E L A M A I L L E , AT P AT E L I E R , A U S T R A L I A L U X E C O L L E C T I V E , B A I L E Y 4 4 , B A L E A R M A N I A , B E AT R I C E B , B E T H & T R A C I E B A R B A D O S , B I N E T T I & L O V E B I N E T T I , B I T T E K A I R A N D , B L A C K L I LY, B L Á I T H Í N E N N I S , B O D Y F R O C K , B Y B O E , C A B I N E T J E W E L L E RY, C A C H A R E L , C A N D I C E C O O P E R , C A R O L I N E S V E D B O M , C AT H E R I N E A N D R E , C E L I A G O U L D , C H I L L E R T O N , C H R I S T I A N L A C R O I X S I L K S , C H U P I , C L A U D I U S , C L U S E , C O C O WA I , C O N D I T I O N S A P P LY, C O N N O C K L O N D O N , C O R I TA R O S E , D A H L I A R A Z Z O O K , D AY B I R G E R E T MIKKELSEN, DEA KUDIBAL, DELAGE, DES PETITS HAUTS, DIEGO M MILANO, D U F F Y, E L E M E N T E C L E M E N T E , E L J E WA N , E L L I O T R H O D E S , E M I LY C A R T E R , E N G L I S H W E AT H E R , E U R O P E A N C U LT U R E , G . H . B A S S , G F G J E W E L L E RY, G O S I L K , G O AT, H A R R I S W I L S O N , H A R T F O R D , H E L E N K A M I N S K I , H E N RY C H R I S T, H U D S O N J E A N S , H U D S O N L O N D O N , H U N K Y D O RY, H W 2 , I N T U A J E W E L L E RY, I P H O R I A , I R I S , I V Y L E E C O P E N H A G E N , J . L I N D E B E R G , J A N AV I , J E F F, J U L I E FA G E R H O LT H E A R T M A D E , J U S T I N C A S E , K A M I N S K I X Y, K AT E S PA D E N E W Y O R K F O O T W E A R , K E N N E L & S C H M E N G E R , K I N G S O F I N D I G O , KIRSTIN ASH, KNITSS, KUDIBAL COPENHAGEN, KYMA, LAMB 1887, LEMON J E L LY, L E S T R O P E Z I E N N E S , L E V I ’ S , L E V I ’ S M A D E & C R A F T E D , L I B E R T I N E L I B E R T I N E , L I L I T H , L I S A TAY L O R D E S I G N , L O L A L E PA R I S , L O U P N O I R , L U I S A
D E S I G N E R
L I S T
CERANO, LULU GUINNESS, MABU BY MARIA BK, MADE BY ANDERSEN, MAISON LABICHE, MAISON MARIE SAINT PIERRE, MAISON SHOESHIBAR COPENHAGEN, MAJO, MANTERO 1902, MARC AUREL, MARCHA HÜSKES, M A R I O N F O A L E , M A R U T I , M AYA M A G A L L O N D O N , M E R C U L E S , M I C H A E L A J E D I N A K , M I L A & J A M E S , M I L A N S A I , M I L L E F RY D E N B E R G , M I R A B E L L E , MODSTRÖM, MONKEE GENES, MOS MOSH, N12H, NADIA MINKOFF L O N D O N , O A K W O O D , O I L I LY, O N E S E A S O N , O N J E N U , O N O , O S K L E N , O V E R S E V E N T Y M I L L I O N , PA R A K I A N , PA R K A L O N D O N , PA R K E R S M I T H , PA R T H E N I S , PAT R I Z I A B O N FA N T I , P E T R O V I T C H R O B I N S O N PA R I S , P E T U S A À PA R I S , P H 1 5 , P I G , C H I C K E N & C O W, P I T U S A , P I N G H E , P O M A M S T E R D A M , P R E T P O U R PA R T I R , P R I M R O S E PA R K , P Y R U S , Q U E S T I O N S ? , R A I N S , R A RY B Y M I C H A E L VA N D E R H A M , R E L I G I O N , R I C H A R D S R A D C L I F F E , R O I S I N L I N N A N E , ROSE RANKIN, ROSEMUNDE, ROSSO 35, RUTH EROTOKRITOU, SAMANTHA S U N G , S AV E M Y B A G , S E C O N D F E M A L E , S E T, S H E R E N E M E L I N D A , S I LV I A N H E A C H , S I M O N E T TA T R AV E R S I , S L A C K L O N D O N , S O L U D O S , S O U L K AT H R I N É , S P E K T R E S U N G L A S S E S , S T E R A S M U S , S U N D RY, S W E D I S H H A S B E E N S , S ’ W E L L , T E N D R E S S E S , T H E B O Y S C O U T S , T H R E E F L O O R , T I S S A F O N TA N E D A , T R A F F I C P E O P L E , T R A N S I T PA R - S U C H , U N E A U N E , U Z M A B O Z A I , U Z U R I I L U X U RY F O O T W E A R , VA R L E Y, V E J A , V I B E K E S C O T T, V I V I E N N E W E S T W O O D S I L K S , W. S S T U D I O , W I L D F O X , W O L F O R D , W O O D W O O D , Y E R S E , Z E N A P R E S L E Y, Z I I O J E W E L L E RY, Z Y G A - L I N ’ N L A U N D RY & M A N Y M O R E T O C O M E . . .
SCOOP-INTERNATIONAL.COM *Red indicates designers new to Scoop | List correct at time of print