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special edition schuhkurier

2.2015 SPRING/SUMMER 2016 www.step-magazine.com

international

BRANDS I STORES I TRENDS

BEST OF SHOES & FASHION spring/summer 2016


AUGUST 8–11

JULY

8–10

STATIONBERLIN

MOC MUNICH

www.premiumexhibitions.com


SHOPPING

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EDITORIAL

TO THE LIMIT

T

he faster people throw away their clothes, the sooner they buy new ones – and that’s what keeps the wheel turning.” When asked about the effects of fast fashion in a recent interview, Karl Lagerfeld summed up the phenomenon in no uncertain terms. The economic factor should certainly not be forgotten in the debate about sustainability. To cut a long story short, fashion drives the economy – and many people make a living in this field. Those who churn out fast fashion make a particularly good living, as proved by the growing revenue figures of H&M, Inditex and co. The rest of the industry is stuck in a structural change – fluctuating between increasing environmental consciousness, digitalisation, new sales channels and discerning customers, who prefer to spend their money on expensive gourmet burgers and global travel than on a new handbag. Fashion trends changing is continually getting faster, but over the last few seasons we have seen them changing at an alarming pace. Bloggers are sending catwalk trends around the world in a matter of seconds and brands have long been buying out04 step 2.2015

fits via Instagram. Compared to one quick click, the three weeks that it takes for an item to be designed and delivered to the chain stores seem like an eternity. And a purchaser who determines which skirt will be selling in six months’ time is virtually put on the same pedestal as a prophet. In the midst of all this ongoing pressure of floor management, unsettled weather and customers who are erratic, fastswitching and hard to reach, today’s real challenge is how to keep track of everything. How to filter information. How to separate the important from the superfluous. And how to keep a cool head whilst all this is going on. The new collections are pointing us in the right direction. For example, many labels are quite clearly concentrating on the bare essentials in the spring/ summer 2016 season. They are focussing on topical issues and strong statements, in line with today’s market demands. Although purchasers look for fashion, they shy away from risk with good reason. It has been a long time since the mass market has covered all target groups. Besides, there is still such a thing as the informed, discerning customer who really does appreciate quality above fast-consumable fashion statements.

Fashion trends changing is continually getting faster, but over the last few seasons we have seen them changing at an alarming pace.

Karolina Landowski Assistant Editor in Chief

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update JULY 8TH 2015 11:45 AM-12:45 PM

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CONTENTS

international

24

20

EDITORIAL 04

To the limit

NEWS 08 30 64

News on fashion, retail & art Berlin Fashion Week – New talent step cover shoot – Making of

TREND 16 Looks – Hey, hippie, The new black & Easywear

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14 20 40

14

Streetstyles – Pitti people Fashion – Seventies, Softness, Black&White Shoe summer 2016

STORES 24 36 38 46

Damage Playground, Rotterdam – A must-visit The Store, Berlin – All in one No Wódka, Berlin – Look again, please! Mardou & Dean, Oslo – Dream and reality

52 56 60

SND Store, Chongqing – Beyond limits Sneakerboy, Melbourne – New business Windows with wow factor


CONTENTS

step cover Photographer: Domenik Broich Assistant: Leonie Scheufler Styling: Rolf Buck Hair & make-up: Janine Burg Model: Raoul, No Toys Sneaker: Adidas Originals Tubular Runner by Jeremy Scott

36

44

DESIGNER 26 28 48 50 58

Charline de Luca – Lucky Luca Isa Tapia – “I’m ready!” Daniela Catraia – Black gold Velt – Brothers in spirit Sarah’s Bag – Prison pearls

BRANDS 44 Beatriz Furest – Colours of Barcelona 27 Avvikk – Sleek look 54 Esperos – Hipster hope

3.2015 step 07


NEWS

Balenciaga

Metropolitan Museum of Art

Mulberry

This year would have marked Cristóbal Balenciaga’s 120th birthday – another good reason to honour Spain’s ‘master of lace’ with a large exhibition. The exhibition at the Cité de la Dentelle et de la Mode in Calais is showing several legendary haute couture designs by Cristóbal Balenciaga, as well as many of his sketches and drawings. There are a total of 75 outfits on display, including numerous accessories, such as hats, shoes and gloves. Balenciaga revolutionised women’s fashion. He created loose, voluminous silhouettes with wide shoulders and boxy cuts. His designs, such as the egg-shaped coat and the baby doll, occupy a permanent place in today’s world of fashion.

The exhibition ‘China – Through the Looking Glass’ at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York explores the impact of Chinese aesthetics on Western fashion and how China has fuelled the fashionable imagination for centuries. In this collaboration between The Costume Institute and the Department of Asian Art, high fashion is juxtaposed with Chinese costumes, paintings, porcelain and other art, including films, to produce enchanting reflections of Chinese imagery. The exhibition features more than 140 examples of haute couture by designers from Paul Poiret to Yves Saint Laurent, as well as avant-garde ready-towear alongside Chinese art.

She rules the fashion world like no other. Following her success on the catwalk and in many campaigns, top model Cara Delevingne has been signed up as designer by British leatherweare label Mulberry. The blue Cara Delevingne bag is made of nappa leather and can be carried in the hand, or worn on the shoulder or as a rucksack. The small rivets on the outside of the bag resemble lions‘ heads and tiny hearts. Alongside the blue bag, Delevingne has also designed a reddish brown clutch bag, as well as a range of purses and pochettes for Mulberry, which are also decorated with tiny lions‘ heads. Fashion blogger Wendy Nguyen is the star of the campaign for the new Cara Delevingne bag.

www.cite-dentelle.frcom

www.metmuseum.org

www.mulberry.com

CHINESE RICHNESS

A BAG BY CARA

Vivienne Westwood

DRESS UP STORY THaute couture meets punk. Vivienne Westwood is in a league of her own when it comes to bringing these extreme opposites onto common ground. Up until mid-September, the renowned SCAD Museum in Savannah is hosting a major exhibition dedicated to the Vivienne Westwood phenomena – covering the complete spectrum between her Cut, Slash and Pull collection and her current range, Dress Up Story. It becomes clear through the exhibition that Westwood’s fashion is never the 08 step 2.2015

be-all and end-all. It continually throws open cultural and sociological questions, such as the designer’s exploration of today’s environmental issues, for example. The exhibition is complemented by a selection of British and American paintings from the museum’s own collection, which serve to further emphasise the artistic qualities of Westwood’s designs. The exhibition is curated by the famous vogue stylist André Leon Talley and runs until 13 September. www.scadmoa.org

Photos: Cité de la Dentelle, Metropolitan Museum of Art, Mulberry, SCAD

MASTER OF LACE


NEWS

Eastpak x Uniwax

Prada

Mansur Gavriel

Luminous, vibrant and full of fantasy – the waxed materials from Uniwax are in a league of their own when it comes to capturing the flair, authenticity and astounding sense of style of western and central Africa. The backpack label Eastpak is bringing a new Uniwax collection onto the market. The company made its mark on fashion design in Africa back in the 1960s. Eastpak has now teamed up with Uniwax to launch the Inspired By The World Of Uniwax collection. This collection includes the Padded Pak’r Rucksack, which comes in three colourful wax block prints and is made from sturdy waxed fabric. The edition went on sale in mid-June.

A book that is as gigantic as the fashion house itself. The 326 pages of the new illustrated book Pradasphere sum up what makes the Prada universe so special – perfect craftsmanship, prestigious materials, a unique design language and passion galore for fashion. Beginning with the origins of the Italian fashion house in 1913, the imposing book tells the tale of how the label developed to become the ‚powerhouse of fashion, art and design‘ that it is today. The authors had to delve deep into the Prada archives to compile the book. Alongside garments and sketches, invitations to fashion shows and shots from films are also on display.

The hip bag label Mansur Gavriel wants to add shoes and clothing to its portfolio. Mansur Gavriel recently won the renowned CFDA award. The shoes and clothes worn by Floriana Gavriel and Rachel Mansur – the two designers behind the Mansur Gavriel label – on the red carpet at the award ceremony gave a taster of what‘s to come. They were seen in two coralcoloured midi dresses with Peter Pan collars and platform sandals. The label has not disclosed exactly when the new shoes and clothes will be coming onto the market. Mansur Gavriel was founded by Rachel Mansur and Floriana Gavriel in 2012. The label is based in New York City.

www.eastpak.com

www.prada.com

www.mansurgavriel.com

COLOUR EXPLOSION THE FASHION BOOK SHOES ARE NEXT

Photos: Eastpak, Prada, Mansur Gavriel, Longchamp

Longchamp

HELLO VIENNA The French leatherware label Longchamp has opened its first flagship store in Austria. The new Viennese store at Wiener Graben 14 - 15 offers 450 m² of shopping over two floors. Alongside men’s and women’s leatherware and accessories, the new Longchamp store also sells luggage and a women’s ready-to-wear shoe collection. Longchamp’s founder’s grandson, Jean Cassegrain, invited some 400 guests to the opening, including stars such as model Franziska Knuppe, actress Jessica Schwarz and designer Lena Hoschek. “Vienna is one of the most romantic and vibrant cities in Europe, which is why we decided to open a store here. The combination of traditional and modern is the perfect setting for our brand,” explains Cassegrain. www.longchamp.com 2.2015 step 09


NEWS

Dior

NEW LOOK STORY The Musée Christian Dior in Granville is dedicating a new exhibition to Christian Dior’s influence on the fashion world. The exhibition runs until 1 November and focuses on the designer’s début collection. Curated by the fashion historian Florence Muller, the exhibition is split into three parts: the designer’s revolutionary first steps, his design concepts and his influence on other fashion houses. There are dresses from 1947 on display as well as current items. www.musee-dior-granville.com

Reebok x Face Stockholm

Cambridge Satchel Company

Bozar

Reebok has teamed up with the cosmetics company Face Stockholm. The outcome of this joint project is a limited edition for women, which is intended to encourage them to adopt a more self-confident image. The joint collection is a combination of Reebok’s feminine silhouettes and Face Stockholm’s powerful colour combinations, which come together to produce a trendy look. The Reebok Freestyle Hi has had a refreshing makeover with shiny metallic colours, pitch-black details and contrasting pastel touches. The first collection is supported by actor and style blogger Ashley Madekwe, who has been signed up as the campaign icon. www.reebok.com

The British designer Vivienne Westwood has teamed up again with the traditional Cambridge Satchel Company. The fruit of this partnership is a limited edition comprising 15 bags, which combine the traditional satchel style with a Vivienne Westwood pattern. There are three models on sale: the Music Bag, the Tiny Satchel and the Classic 14. They are all produced by hand in the Cambridge Satchel Company’s workshops in England. The bags come in combinations of navy and yellow, tea rose and grey, and green and black. Vivienne Westwood worked in association with the Cambridge Satchel Company two years ago. www.cambridgesatchel.com

Dries van Noten, Raf Simons, Martin Margiela... The list of Belgian designers who have caused a furore with their collections has never stopped growing. And this is a good enough reason to take an analytical look at the fashion history of this small country. This task has been successfully taken on by the famous BOZAR art museum in Brussels with its major exhibition ‘The Belgians: An Unexpected Fashion Story’. Alongside current developments in the Belgian design scene, curator Didier Vervaeren also highlights pioneers of the past, important fashion schools and promising newcomers in the exhibition, which runs until 13 September. www.bozar.be

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VIVIENNE TO GO

BELGIAN FASHION

Photos: Musee Dior Granville, Reebok, Cambridge Satchel Company, Bozar

JUST BEAUTIFUL


NEWS

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NEWS

V&A Museum

POWER OF SHOES The major exhibition ‘Shoes – Pleasure and Pain’ has opened in London. Shoes can be wonderful, but also very painful – women especially put up with a lot with their much-loved high heels and stilettos. A new exhibition in the Victoria & Albert Museum, London, is dedicated to this very phenomenon. ‘Shoes – Pleasure and Pain’ reveals the extreme variety that characterises the world of fashion for the feet. There are some 200 pairs of shoes on display, including styles worn by the ancient Egyptians and the latest creations of high-fashion designers. Further information can be found at www.vam.ac.uk

Camper

Mode Museum

Floris van Bommel

The Design Museum London is opening a major exhibition focusing on the Spanish shoe label Camper. The exhibition, entitled Life on Foot, is dedicated to the history of the familyowned brand and its unconventional designs. Visitors get to enjoy an exclusive look behind the scenes of Camper and learn about all the steps involved in developing a shoe collection. There are numerous sketches on display, as well as prototypes and shoes from Camper’s vast archives that have never been unveiled to the public before. The exhibition also focuses on the idea of craftsmanship. www.camper.com

The exhibition ‘Foot Print – The Tracks of Shoes in Fashion’ opens at MoMu Antwerp on 3 September 2015, telling the story of inspirational and ground-breaking fashion shoes of the twentieth and twenty-first centuries. The exhibition shines a light on the fashion and shoe designers who have left their footprint on the world of shoes with the exquisite and innovative designs they created. Their craft and art came together in architectural shapes, leaving a footprint on the fashion images of their time. The exhibition will include insights into the design of the shoes. www.momu.be

The Dutch shoe label Floris van Bommel is opening its second self-managed German store, with a 100 m² shop floor. The label uses creative ideas and humorous displays for positioning. Featuring vintage flooring, a mosaic-decorated counter bearing the slogan ‘Transport yourself’, witty interior decoration, hidden messages and the trademark cobalt blue colours, the Düsseldorf store has its own unique image. Alongside the men‘s collection, the store also stocks 70 models for women.

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BEST OF DESIGN

NEW IN DÜSSELDORF

www.florisvanbommel.com

Photos: Victoria & Albert Museum, Camper, Momu, Floris van Bommel

LIFE ON FOOT


THE MARKETPL ACE FOR LEADING BRANDS I N T E R N AT I O N A L F A S H I O N T R A D E S H O W | 7 – 9 J U LY 2 0 15 www.panorama-berlin.com


TREND

Boho 2015: neckerchief, a head of curls and Simple, yet extravagant: cardigan combined with psychedelic patterns. lattice check from head to toe.

Colour was a must in Florence – such The ethno look will be trending next as apricot, contrasted with mouse grey. summer, seen here as a cardigan.

PITTI PEOPLE

The fashion industry’s best-dressed men came together in Florence in mid-June for the 88th edition of the fashion show Pitti Uomo. step reveals the best looks.

P The must-have accessory in Florence was the Panama hat.

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urchasers from the world’s top menswear stores came together at Pitti Uomo in Florence to view the first spring/ summer trends for 2016. And because a visit to the fair is like strutting the catwalk, these trend scouts ended up setting their own trends here. Italians, Japanese, British and Americans don their best outfits for the occasion – eccentric, unique and full of fantasy. The fair

gave these aesthetic hedonists the perfect stage for flaunting their individual person alities, creating a colourful, multifaceted image of masculinity that expressed every conceivable taste and style. Colourful jackets exuded a Riviera air, graphic prints demonstrated modern precision and the influence of active sport was unmistakable. No outfit was complete without neckerchiefs and hats, lending each ensemble its own special touch.

Photos: Pitti Uomo

Colours of Pitti: colourful jackets in soft pastel tones are high on the agenda.


TREND

Menswear collections go big on relaxation

EASYWEAR Laid back: outfit by Cinque

To the point: polka dot socks by Happy Socks

The art of perforation: summer ankle boots by Floris van Bommel

S

oothing colours, soft materials and simple cuts – the casualisation of men’s fashion continues undeterred. Next summer, washed cottons, velours and nubuk will be coming into play to achieve pale nuances and matte textures. Cardigans and t-shirts made from delicate mixed fibres will appear in colours such as pigeon blue, sage, taupe and sand.

Everyday casual: outfit by Marc O’Polo

Charity to wear: rucksack by Toms

Soft shades: jumper by Roy Robson

Sporty: all-white sneakers by Gant

Casual luggage: sailor’s holdall by Camp David

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TREND

Purism is always in fashion

THE NEW BLACK All wrapped up: outfit by Set

Bag with a view: braided model by Gabor Bags

Traditional: watch by Komono

Look on the dark side: sunglasses by Liebeskind Berlin

M

inimalistic cuts and neat colours – mainly black and white – represent a new purism, inspired by the reserved sense of Japanese style. Kimono sleeves, asymmetric silhouettes, extra-wide dresses, origami effects and wraparound styles create an almost sculptural look. Simple outfits are based on sophisticated strappy sandals. New widths: outfit by Marc O’Polo Pure

Sophisticated straps: sandals by Bronx and SPM

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TREND

The spirit of the seventies is back

HEY, HIPPIE

Casual friends: shopper by Fred’s Bruder

Glittery: temporary jewellery tattoos by Lulu DK

T

Mystical: earrings by Yulyaffairs

Bell-bottoms and floppy hat: outfit by Marc Aurel

Mix and match: scarves by BecksĂśndergaard

he 1970s have become an essential part of the latest collections. Alongside flared trousers and tailored waists, wide dresses and airy tunics are creating a casual hippie look for 2016. The mixture of paisley prints and intricate ethno patterns will be appearing in powder tones ranging from beige to blush. Decorative fringes, neckerchiefs and wide hats put the perfect finishing touch to any outfit.

Open-hearted: fringe sandal by Ash

For your next trip to Goa: weekender by Toms

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Trade Fair Dates 29.07.2015 – 31.07.2015 GDS, a NEW Trade Fair Booth – hall 5 B 08, Düsseldorf 08.08.2015 – 10.08.2015 SOC Breitscheid, Breitscheid 16.08.2015 – 17.08.2015 Info Trade Fair FOM, hall, Spreitenbach 18.08.2015 – 20.08.2015 ANWR First Order, Mainhausen 22.08.2015 – 23.08.2015 Sabu Trade Fair, Heilbronn 23.08.2015 – 25.08.2015 Shoes & More, Brandboxx, Langenhagen 01.09.2015 – 04.09.2015 Micam, hall 1 K 05 – L06, Mailand 08.09.2015 – 09.09.2015 ANWR Fashion Days, Mainhausen 13.09.2015 – 15.09.2015 Moda Made in Italy, hall 4, München 20.09.2015 – 22.09.2015 FOM Order Trade Fair, Spreitenbach 13.10.2015 ANWR NOW, Mainhausen (all dates are provisional - last update June, 6th 2015)

TS Handels GmbH | Ebertstrasse 30 | D-63165 Mühlheim am Main | Tel +49 61 08 - 99 00 02 Mobil +49 171 851 80 60 | Fax +49 61 08 - 99 00 03 | tstein@tstein.com | www.tstein.com


SEVENTIES

Marc Cain

Set

Marc O’Polo

Marc O’Polo

Michael Kors

TREND

The 70s are back – and so, too, are flares, wide tunics and tailored waists. After denim, the season’s most important material is suede – whether this be used in coats, skirts, wedges or clogs. Details such as fringes, paisley patterns and patchwork will be given a modern facelift and combined with simple cuts. 20 step 2.2015


Marc O’Polo

Marc Aurel

Marc Cain

Mac

Comma

TREND

SOFTNESS

Casual designs, cuts inspired from menswear, and soft tone-in-tone combinations in pale colours create an uncomplicated look. New silhouettes are born out of the refined interaction between volumes, materials and lengths. The most diverse range of trouser shapes will be in the spotlight, including culottes, Marlene trousers and carrots. 2.2015 step 21


Comma

BLACK&WHITE

Marc Aurel

Strenesse

Cinque

Gestuz

TREND

Strong contrasts are an absolute must in spring/summer 2016. Looks will be plainer, tidier and more focussed. And there’s nothing better than the black and white colour combination to emphasise fashion’s new clarity, as plain shirts, chunky jumpers and silk tops are combined with straight-cut trousers. 22 step 2.2015


napapijri.com


STORES

A MUST-VISIT

An amazing place that encourages customer participation – the concept store Damage Playground in Rotterdam’s harbour district is causing something of a stir.

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thermore, showcasing the products properly is extremely important, which isn’t so easy to achieve in a virtual environment. “We wanted to come into direct contact with our customers by means of a hybrid store that gives us tremendous flexibility and freedom. Our goal was to create a meeting place for like-minded people,” explains Alexandre Furtado.

EVERYTHING UNDER ONE ROOF

This place doesn’t necessarily focus on the latest trends, which everyone else pounces on at ever-decreasing intervals. It is more about offering a range of non-seasonal wear – stocking products that stand out for their durability, good quality, a sense of fun and originality. And innovation still plays an important role here, too – especially when the customer is invited to participate. In other words, by letting a customer turn into a supplier. Garments that are hanging unworn in a customer’s wardrobe can end up in Damage Playground, waiting for a new loving owner. The ‘customer archives’ form a

Photos: Damage Playground

Y

ou might as well forget everything that you’ve ever heard about stores and the concepts behind them. This shopping highlight in Rotterdam likes to break with tradition, which is why it constantly strives to follow new and, for the most part, highly unusual paths. Brothers Alexandre and Anibal Furtado have managed to get the Damage Playground off the ground twice over. It initially existed as just an online shop, but this was joined by a bricksand-mortar store selling tangible goods in 2012. There was never a real plan behind it though. Because both founders and store operators are always open to new ideas and constantly need to get to the bottom of things before they can optimise them, it was simply the way it was meant to be. Selling exclusively online also proved too one-sided and boring, and over time a feeling of dissatisfaction took hold as they ran up against certain limits time and time again. Many of the items on sale simply cried out to be thoroughly explained to customers. Fur-


STORES

vintage section in the store, ensuring a continual supply of nice surprises for the clientele. This is also seen as a positive action and goes some way to overcoming the negative image of our throwaway society. However, at the end of the day, Damage Playground aims to be seen as a modern venue hosting a varied and frequently changing programme of events, turning it into a platform for innovative ideas and their designers. It’s not just a question of fashion here. It’s about having a wide range of products and activities on offer. In addidtion to film screenings, readings and music events, Damage Playground also stages art exhibitions and presentations of fashion collections.

is evident here. The high ceilings and the massive glass façade bring a definite charm with them and lend a theatrical air to the store. The current stock may be low-key, but it provides an astonishing level of flexibility. The predominantly male fashion range is made up of relatively new brands from across Europe. The brands are always selected on the basis of their authenticity and creativity, while ensuring a careful balance between wearability and originality. “We are going our own way and are still a long way from reaching our destination. This store represents a constant challenge for us, which we very much enjoy facing,” explains Furtado. Thomas Henkelmann, th@step-magazine.com

AN INVITING PLACE

The store has been designed to be very clean and minimalistic. Inspiration for the planning came from Tadao Ando – considered one of the best-known contemporary architects, albeit self-taught. The influence of his design concepts – namely his focus on transparent geometry –

DAMAGE PLAYGROUND Hillelaan 29, 3072 JD Rotterdam www.damageclothing.com

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DESIGNER

Shoe designer Charline de Luca has made her international breakthrough thanks to her clever art of combining architecture and fashion.

LUCKY LUCA

C

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POETIC DESIGNS

Charline de Lucas’ shoe designs are characterised by graphic cuts and geometric angles, having been inspired by prominent artists and philosophers. She found inspiration for her latest collection, for example, from Italian poet Filippo Tommaso Marinett. This has resulted in eye-catching silhouettes and strong colours in patent leather, velour and calf, which are combined with dusky shades and metallic touches. www.charlinedeluca.com Karolina Landowski, kl@step-magazine.com

Photos: Charline de Luca

Charline de Luca is one of the most interesting shoe designers. The architectonic high heels are manufactured exclusively in her home country.

harline de Luca has to thank her home city of Rome for her sense of beauty and perfection. The beautiful Italian first embarked on a degree in architecture in New York, bringing her typical Italian sense of style and her passion for prestigious materials across the Atlantic. Meanwhile, Luca discovered her passion for shoe design. Back in Rome, she worked for the fashion house Fendi, while also developing a label in her own name. She then studied at the renowned Central St. Martins in London, presenting her first collection following her graduation in 2012. And this took the fashion world by storm. Not only was she voted best national accessory designer by Vogue Italia, but her designs also went on display in a New York museum. Charline de Luca managed to sign up Nicolle Meyer for her last autumn/winter campaign – a model icon from the 80s and muse of legendary photographer Guy Bourdin. In the same year, the Footwear News magazine nominated her as one of the 100 most influential players in the shoe industry. Her shoe models are now sold in all four corners of the globe.


BRAND

SLEEK LOOK

Photos: Avvikk

Designed in Norway and manufactured in Italy, the label Avvikk puts shoe design in another dimension. The Oslo-based shoe brand Avvikk, founded in 2013, is inspired by literal and metaphorical mobility. Shaking off the bounds of traditional footwear, designer Jess Eisenhauser consistently seeks to create something new; juxtaposing fabrics, colours, patterns and textures to produce pieces which inspire discussion and provoke thought. Using luxury materials and hand finishing from the finest Italian producers, Avvikk maintains integrity to all unisex products. The men’s and women’s collections often share common elements. The new collection pushes the boundaries into a hitech approach with soft-coated ‘rubber-feel’ leathers, ‘steel satin’ crushed-metallic fabric and glossy printed leathers that mix with new shapes and fastenings. Leaving out laces for the collection, the latest styles show new shapes with Velcro, neoprene and zippers in runner, boot and classic shapes. www.avvikk.com

2.2015 step 27


DESIGNER

“I’M READY!”

Watch out, Isa Tapia is on her way! No fashion insider should ever forget the name of the young designer from New York City. step introduces her. to come along. A partner that I can trust and that has a proven track record of building up brands. Pentland is the very partner that I have always dreamed of,” explains Isa Tapia, confidently adding, “I am ready to become a global brand.” Like many or her predecessors, Isa Tapia discovered her love of shoes in Italy. After graduating from the Parsons School of Design, her professional career has seen her working for design legends such as Marc Jacobs and Oscar de la Renta. These jobs brought her to Florence, where she spent three years studying the fine art of shoemaking. Isa Tapia then gained further valuable experience in her role as Design

Isa Tapia

Director responsible for the accessories range at Ann Taylor. She took the step to begin her own business in 2011. Although her shoe designs are fancy and feminine, they still remain everyday styles. Her kitten heels caused a bit of a stir in her first season. Since then, her customer base has expanded to include famous names such as the New York department store Bloomingdales, Saks Fifth Avenue, Harvey Nichols in London and Lane Crawford in Hong Kong. She has all it takes to ensure that other top addresses are added to the list. What does Isa Tapia say to this? “I’m ready!” www.isatapia.com Helge Neumann, hn@step-magazine.com

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Photos: Isa Tapia

T

here is always a lot of coming and going in the young brand market. It’s often a case of hyped today, gone tomorrow. Many designers start out full of hope, only to fail – not due to a lack of creativity, but because of a shortage of financial support. Isa Tapia, however, has it all worked out. The shoe designer managed to sign up the Pentland Group as a partner in spring 2015. With the financial backing of the British company, the native Puerto Rican can now push forward the expansion of her own brand, which she founded in 2011. “I have waited a long time for the right partner


EDGES BY FORMES // WWW.FORMES.EU


NEW TALENT

Berlin’s trade fairs Premium, Panorama, Seek and Show+Order never cease to introduce exciting newcomers. step reveals a selected few. Louise Kragh

MADE IN DENMARK Jewellery by Louise Kragh is blessed with a unique aura. The items are designed and manufactured in the workshop in Denmark, using carefully selected materials. Styles range from elegant necklaces to fragile, plainer pieces, yet also include some bright, colourful designs. Louise Kragh’s collection can currently be seen at the Show+Order. www.louisekragh.dk

Ziiiro

BLING-BLING

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ANOTHER WATCH

The young and aspiring label Stadtelster creates jewellery and illustrations for men and women. Painstaking craftsmanship yields confetti for the neck and hand, and illustrations for all occasions. The founder of Stadtelster is Jessica Herber, a young goldsmith and illustrator from Weimar, who combines traditional craft with outstanding design. Her illustrations are closely intertwined with her jewellery designs. The collection will be exhibited at the Show+Order in Berlin.

Futuristic, minimalistic and casual all at once – the German watch brand Ziiiro is characterised by its simple, yet extraordinary, design. Time has never been so unique. Doing away with hands and digital display, the eleven watch collections by Ziiiro come across as functional. The watches are the work of Nuremberg designer Robert Dabi, who conceived Ziiiro’s watches as lifestyle products, rather than traditional wristwatches. Ziiiro is particularly versatile, thanks to a wide range of colours and interchangeable features on certain models. Ziiiro will be presenting its latest models at the Seek.

www.stadtelster.de

www.ziiiro.de

Photos: Premium Exhibitions, Louise Kragh, Stadtelster, Ziiiro

Stadtelster


NEWS

Arrogant Artists

ROUGH HIPNESSS

Alfredo Gonzales

SOCK ALERT! The Dutch sock label Alfredo Gonzales positions itself using bright colours, wild patterns and a generous dose of humour. The colourful socks knitted from 30/1 yarn are designed to look amazing and be comfortable, too. Complete with hand-knitted toes and special ‘Alfredo’ buttons, these socks bring a colourful touch to any outfit. The sock boxes, with fashionable themes such as ‘the beach’, are particularly practical. If you can’t find the sock you’re looking for in the wide range of products, you can design your own socks online. The diversity of this creative collection can be admired at Seek. www.alfredogonzales.com

Marina Hoermanseder

Marcel Ostertag

Arrogant Artists is a Danish menswear brand from Copenhagen, which creates streetwear items with innovative twists. The designers behind the brand – inspired by Nørrebro, the hip yet rough area of Copenhagen – use high-quality fabrics and trimmings in all designs to ensure ultimate comfort and robustness. With a line produced exclusively in Portugal from Oekotex certified fabrics, Arrogant Artists strives to create wearable fashion with an innovative twist, making it both stylish and comfortable at the same time. From basic logo t-shirts to embroidered hoodies and well-trimmed pieces, Arrogant Artists has definitely established itself as the fashion industry’s favourite comfort clothing brand, offering style at affordable prices. The spring/ summer collection will be shown at the Seek tradeshow in Berlin. www.arrogantartists.com

Augustin Teboul

Photos: Alfredo Gonzales, Arrogant Artists, Stilnest

3D PRINTER DESIGN The jewellery scene is booming. Marina Hoermanseder, Augustin Teboul and Marcel Ostertag – three of the most successful young German designer brands – will be presenting their jewellery collections in Berlin, in association with Stilnest. This company specialises in 3D printing, bringing designer items from first sketch to launch in a matter of days, producing firstclass results as they go. The three designer brands in this partnership are worlds apart, which goes to prove even more so that this way of working is the future of fashion.

“This collection has given me the chance to reinvent one of my favourite design items as a piece of jewellery,” explains Marina Hoermanseder. The jewellery is premiering on the runway and will be appearing initially at the designers’ own fashion shows in Berlin. www.stilnest.com Design language meets the 3D printer: Augustin Teboul’s ring and Marina Hoermanseder’s bangle are part of the jewellery collections.

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NEWS

La Palmerie

ESPADRILLES FOREVER Alessa Kaiser founded the label La Palmerie in 2014, as an expression of her passion for fashion accessories. It specialises in top-quality shoes that are exclusively handmade in Spain. Committed to traditional and artisanal craftsmanship, La Palmerie combines the traditional espadrille design with new materials and a rainbow of colours – on show at Premium exhibition in Berlin. www.la-palmerie.com

Naguisa

CREATIVE COUPLE

GLITTERY JEWELS Focussing on contemporary design, Nina Kastens is a jewellery label known for its timeless, modern pieces that combine coolness with elegant chic. Nina Kastens’ debut collection comprises fresh makeovers of classic sterling silver and gold vermeil jewellery, which is embellished with freshwater pearls, luminous emeralds or pink opals. She gains her inspiration primarily from extraordinary objects, interior design shapes and intriguing characters. The finished items are produced in her workshop in Hamburg. She will be exhibiting at Show+Order. www.ninakastens.com

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www.naguisa.com

Lulu DK

JEWELLERY FOR THE SKIN What do top model Alessandra Ambrosio, Rihanna and actress Vanessa Hudgens have in common? They all wear temporary jewellery tattoos from the US label Lulu DK. The intricate designs showing climbing plants, feathers and ribbons in gold and silver are easy to apply, stay on for up to six days, are 100% waterproof and can be removed easily with oil. Designs are inspired by the traditional jewellery of India, Egypt and 1001 nights. The label, founded by American Lulu de Kwiatkowski, will be premiering at Show+Order. www.luludk.de

Photos: Palmerie, Naguisa, Nina Kastens, Lulu DK

Nina Kastens

Naguisa is a footwear company that was founded in 2012 in Barcelona. Its mission is to sell products that preserve an artisan spirit, while combining design with functionality. Claudia Pérez Polo and Pablo Izquierdo López are at the helm of Naguisa, creating items that are a fusion of their talents and personalities. The two of them design everything themselves – ranging from the actual footwear to fair stands for their exhibitions. They are both fully involved in the whole process, beginning with the first sketches and ending with delivery of the product. Cooperation with artists and designers allows Naguisa to take another step forward with each new collection. The label will soon be making a debut appearance at Premium.


SHOPPING

IF YOU

IT WILL

DO LAST IT FOR RIGHT EVER IT WILL LAST FOREVER

8 – 10 July 2015 Berlin Postbahnhof

IF YOU DO IT RIGHT

8 – 10 July 2015 Berlin Postbahnhof

1.2015 step 33


NEWS

Nazar

French Kick

SHINING BRIGHTLY

FUN SHIRTS

The Nazar Berlin label, founded by designer Berlin Atmaca, presents a wide spectrum of designs in which one element is trans-formed into a necklace or bracelet using the most diverse kinds of materials and colours. The outcome? Meticulously crafted jewellery that hugs the body. These one-of-a-kind items are so adorable, you’ll never want to take them off. Each creation is crafted by hand using first-class materials, making them lifelong friends – exhibiting at Show+Order.

The unpretentious T-shirts from the label French Kick are based on street culture, pulling together visual and graphic items, a blend of pop culture imagery and colourful illustrations. French Kick adds its own twist and parodies fashion trends to come up with something new and original. Prints, patterns and slogans are mixed together in an innovative way to create a cool, urban lifestyle product with a certain amount of irony. “We make fun of everything and everyone, starting with ourselves”, is the motto of the fun fashion brand, which will be showing its latest collection at Panorama in Berlin.

I love my moment

FINISHING TOUCH The Dutch label I love my moment is in a league of its own when it comes to understanding how accessories can create a completely new look. Its creations include wonderful scarves with such lavish prints that it is almost a sin for them to be folded and draped several times around your shoulders. Prestigious, easy-care materials and a wide colour spectrum are essential for I love my moment, and so, too, are extravagant digital prints. This season, I love my moment will be showing its new spring/summer collection 2016 for the first time at Panorama.

www.frenchkick.com

www.ilovemymoment.nl

Stil in Berlin

BERLIN AT A GLANCE Do you want to know what’s hot in the city? To coincide with the Fashion Week, the Stil in Berlin blog published the ‘Best Places in Berlin Map’ – a city map showing the 80 best food and shopping tips in the capital. It’s small enough to take with you wherever you go. The Best of Berlin Map is on sale at 9,90 Euro and is available online at www.stilinberlin.de

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Photos: Nazar, French Kick, I love my moment, Stil in Berlin

www.nazar.com


FA S H I O N T R A D E E V E N T

07.– 09.07. 2015

SO… by Show&Order . Sophie Guyot

Di 07. Juli 10 – 19 Uhr Mi 08. Juli 10 – 19 Uhr Do 09. Juli 10 – 17 Uhr SHOWANDORDER.COM


STORES

ALL IN ONE

An amazing, multifaceted store concept that caters for absolutely every customer’s need has been causing a stir recently in Berlin.

GREAT VARIETY

The two-storey store in Soho House, in Berlin, provides a spacious home for fashion, books, magazines, music, furniture, interior decoration as well as children’s fashion and accessories. A hairdresser’s, beauty area and catering outlet have also been integrated into the store. Shopping, admiring, relaxing, enjoying – everything is possible under this one roof. Even work areas are available for short-term rent, including a photo studio and recording studio. It is astounding – the store provides a whole host of surprises in every shape and form. Even art installati36 step 2.2015

ons have been integrated into parts of the interior design. Exploring this top shopping venue is guaranteed to be anything but boring! “We wanted to create a place where people could basically spend the whole day. A place where everyone feels at home, where our guests can shop, work, eat, drink and relax – it’s just that everything in this seemingly private environment is also for sale,” explains Alex Eagle, the man who pulls the store’s strings.

ONLY THE BEST

This special store concept immediately proved to be the new major attraction in Berlin. Although less is quite clearly more here, the store has definitely been a Mecca for its fashion-conscious clientele since its opening in February of this year. Those who are looking for something special have definitely come to the right place. The internationally oriented range of ladies’ and men’s fashion is remarkably wide and diverse, covering a spectrum from classic to extremely hip. The combination of handpicked prestigious designer items is what sets this store apart – as well as established brands and highly promising newcomers. Balenciaga, The Row, Jil Sander, Christophe Lemaire, Proenza Schouler, Rosetta Getty, Issey Miyake, Junya Watanabe and JW Anderson offer a wonderfully exciting range of fashion, as well as desirable accessories. Thomas Henkelmann, th@step-magazine.com

THE STORE X SOHO HOUSE BERLIN Torstr. 1, Berlin-Mitte www.thestore-berlin.com

Photos: Kirchner Kutt

T

he luxurious yet rather subdued interior of this concept store immediately makes customers feel at home. Pure elegance and reserve prevail here, lending the store a relaxed atmosphere in which everything appears bang up to date yet also extremely timeless. This is emphasised by the harmonious colour scheme and the vast amount of space in the store. The perfect use of space and light is immediately apparent, with large windows adding natural daylight. It’s difficult to know what to look at first in the store, which is spread over more than 2,800 m2. Most customers are obviously keen to explore the fashion section. The store has been designed so that everything is clearly arranged and inviting. Plenty of small niches have been created automatically between the massive pillars, which form easily separable areas to help organise the huge range of products. Much to the joy of shoppers, almost every section is equipped with its own inviting seating area, each with its own different style. Other products, carefully coordinated with the stylish decorations, are nonchalantly arranged in a very enlightening fashion on stand-alone tables and stands throughout the store.


STORES

The store in Soho House, in Berlin, wants customers to feel at home.

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STORES

LOOK AGAIN, PLEASE!

Photos: No Wódka

Is it a gallery? Is it a shop? This is the thousand-dollar question when it comes to No Wódka – an innovative concept store in Berlin for men and women, which swears by all things Polish.

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STORES

No Wódka puts Polish fashion design in the limelight.

E

A clear distinction is virtually impossible, and not that important anyway. The main aim of No Wódka is to encourage custom ers to develop a strong interest in new, innovative things, which is why it has taken on a kind of ambassadorial role in the city on the Spree. The store’s number one mission is to raise awareness of Polish designers and artists, whose work can sometimes be extremely spectacular. This is especially true of new talent, because there are many newcomers in Poland who not only exhibit extraordinary creativity, but also deliver first-class quality, too. And these are the perfect prerequisites for an international breakthrough. Aleksandra Kozlowska’s project provides an exciting stage in Pappelallee, in Berlin’s hip Prenzlauer-Berg district. Needless to say, her chosen premises have their own, unmistakable look to them and tempt people in to explore. The renowned Warsaw-based architects Kontent were responsible for the design. The in-your-face, astoundingly simple yet smart construction resembles an installation and sets a new benchmark in design. A walk-through world has been created using a network of steel pipes with universal connectors, together with a variety of wooden partitions and floor panels, which can be changed around and redesigned without too much trouble. This allows the ambiance to be transformed to suit the season or fit with a new interior design concept. The store’s highlight is the natural delimitation, a new “room“ that detaches itself optically from the four real walls – creating a room within a room, so to speak. This idea can also be taken metaphorically, for it is this project that allows Polish culture to occupy a befitting space in the centre of Berlin.

VIBRANT ENERGY

“No Wódka represents a contemporary microcosm of the latest fashion, design and art from Poland. The basic idea behind the store is to make it vibrate with positive energy and joie de vivre, and to act as a showcase for creative and daring projects. It is an ongoing process. New artists, brands and design studios are continually being invited to partner with the store, so that the products on the shelves always reflect the current creative scene in Poland,” explains Kozlowska. Energy oozes out of every inch of the store. Although everything is produced by different workshops and originates from a diverse range of artists, it all comes magically together as one on the shelves – thanks to the company founder and store manager’s talent for tracking down the right products. She usually has plenty of room to display her wares, which Kozlowska considers extremely important. After all, this is the only way of making sure that the products are shown off in their best light. The fashion portfolio includes labels such as Moonchilli, Klekko, Mariusz Przybylski, Natasha Dziewit, Puch, Blackbow and Domi Grzybek. These are complemented by diverse accessories from brands such as Marthu, Mollie, Unikke Design, Viola lee, June Design, Pet Petits and Roboty Reczne. Thomas Henkelmann, th@step-magazine.com

NO WÓDKA

Pappelallee 10,10437 Berlin www.nowodka.com

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TREND

SHOE SUMMER 2016

A hint of the seventies, a touch of glitter and a generous dose of sportswear sum up the new shoe fashions for the spring/summer 2016 season.

Maypol

Tom Tailor

CLOGS & CO.

Ash

Michael Kors

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Vagabond

The 70s are currently enjoying a roaring revival in the world of fashion. Shoe designers have also jumped on the bandwagon and found inspiration in seventies’ styles. This has resulted in fashionable retakes on plain clogs with wooden soles, strappy sandals with high wedges and suede platforms. The characteristic colour range of cognac and natural shades has been punctuated with a splash of white.

Shoenco


TREND

Birkenstock

I love Candies

Fritzi aus Preußen

I love Candies

Vidorreta

Velvetred

GLITTER

Maypol

Casual footwear will be getting a hefty glamorous makeover next summer. The season’s fashion highlights include espadrilles and loafers with glittery surfaces and coloured metallic leather ranging from rosé to sky blue, which creates an exciting contrast to the natural hemp soles and decorative braiding. White profile soles lend an athletic look to the styles.

Marc Aurel

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TREND

Dockers

Blink

UTILITY SANDALS Practical, sporty and ultralight, despite their somewhat chunky appearance – utility sandals are one of the styles trending this summer. They are a perfect fit, thanks to their elasticated straps, laces and Velcro fastenings, while wide footbeds and cushioning EVA profile soles ensure maximum comfort. Clean colours will emphasise the sporty look.

Tommy Hilfiger

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Velvetred

Dr. Martens

The Flexx

Ash

Henkelman


TREND

SNEAKER The sport megatrend is nowhere near exhausted and will be bringing us a fresh wave of sneaker styles again next summer. Designs will alternate between ultralight running shoes and retro silhouettes, with innovative high-tech materials combined with fine calfskin. The black and white colour theme will keep things plain and neat.

Lacoste

Velvetred

Bullboxer

Bronx

Ash

Gant

Kappa

Mac

Asics

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BRAND

COLOURS OF BARCELONA

“Leather is like a faithful friend. It grows old with you and it never loses its charm.” Beatriz Furest knows how to describe her passion. The founder of the samenamed accessory brand comes from a family that has dressed the gentlemen of Spain for over a century. In 1898 her relatives opened their first store ‘Furest’ in Barcelona’s Plaza Real, beginning what is now a legendary menswear label that continues to thrive 150 years later. Her family’s love for fashion, art and design had a profound effect on a young Beatriz, who raised in Furest’s busy workshops. She recalls how different colour trends were applied to classic tailoring and incorporated into new collections each season. She now runs her own accessory brand, based in the heart of Barcelona. Its designs capture the essence of Barcelona’s cool street style and are at once classic and contemporary. Since 1996, the brand has bridged the gap between traditional craftsmanship and cuttingedge design, which can be explored for the first time at the Premium exhibition in Berlin. www.beatrizfurest.com

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Photos: Beatriz Furest

Catalan blood, Italian leather and the passion for colours come together in the accessories brand Batriz Furest.


BRAND STAGING AT THE POS

VISUAL CONCEPTION DIGITAL SIGNAGE SOURCING PRODUCTION POS STEERING GLOBAL ROLLOUT

MAVIS.DE

VISUAL-MERCHANDISING-WORLD.DE


STORES

DREAM AND REALITY

T

he company founders and owners of the store, Ingrid Bredholt and Patrik Rosenfors, quickly decided to take a look at the empty premises, and fell upon exactly the atmosphere and location they were looking for. The city’s historic harbour is known as Aker Brygge, and is now one of the most exclusive shopping districts in the city centre. The interior of Bredholt and Rosenfors’ second boutique in the Norwegian capital is decorated with great taste. The couple designed the interior themselves, which is spread over more than 80 m2. The result is a fusion of shop floor and sensory experience, or so they claim. The considerable space in the warehouse lends itself to a wide variety of uses. Alongside the boutique, the site houses a café, gallery and conservatory. When the owners first 46 step 2.2015

visited the building, they were immediately taken by the unique spirit and great history of the place, which is why they decided to retain many of the original features. Some walls were re-plastered while others were left in their slightly dilapidated state, resulting in old, exposed brickwork in places. This brings a distinct juxtaposition of the old and the new to the store, which, in turn, results in strongly contrasting materials. The red brickwork harmonises perfectly with the sleek concrete surfaces, sepia-coloured marble, whitewashed plaster and the many copper elements featuring in the interior. Huge windows are not only a source of natural daylight, but they also incorporate the beautiful historic setting into the interior design. The area in front of the store is also open during the summer, so that shoppers can enjoy the warm weather while spending time relaxing, sitting on the large, inviting patio.


STORES

An old 19th century warehouse in Oslo’s harbour district. The place where boats were once built is now home to Mardou & Dean – one of the most fascinating stores in the city.

Photos: Mardou & Jean

Fascination all the way Clothes hang on assorted garment rails made of copper piping, some of which hang from the six-metre-high ceiling, as do the large industrial light fittings. The design is primarily based on austere shapes. A multitude of cubes placed on the floor and walls serve as shelving and provide plenty of storage space. The cupboard elements and the large pedestals made of polished copper are simply stunning. Just the right amount of cosiness is attained with the use of comfortable Bauhaus-style armchairs and a lush collection of houseplants. The décor is much more fancy, although there is a mix of old and new at play here, too. Secondhand sewing machines and slightly battered suitcases are tucked away between bundles of peacock feathers and stuffed flamingos. The top of the room is adorned with the most fascinating, beautiful ceiling decoration made from folded paper – an eye-catcher if ever there was one!

All of this creates the ideal backdrop for the Mardou & Dean collection, which comprises a multitude of ladies’ and men’s shoes and accessories each season. The owners have clearly created a wonderful, aesthetic environment, into which they have incorporated no end of surprising touches. Not only are all visitors immediately taken by the store, but the building also exudes centuries’ worth of history with every step, along with the owners’ passion for fashion and current trends. Thomas Henkelmann, th@step-magazine.com

MARDOU & DEAN BOUTIQUE

Holmes Gate 4, Aker Brygge, 0365 Oslo www.mardouanddean.com

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DESIGNER

Black, in the widest range of shades, lends Daniela Catraia’s debut collection sensual depth.

BLACK GOLD

Portugal is still considered one of the largest talent hubs when it comes to shoe design. Daniela Catraia is its latest export.

AN ATHLETIC LOOK Her designs are characterised by powerful silhouettes and solid soles.

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Daniela Catraia, the designer behind the brand – who has a degree in Architecture from the University of Évora and in Footwear Design from the Lisbon School of Design – likes to combine the world of fashion with architecture in her work. She ex-

plores new materials and novel ways of coordinating them. The spring/summer collection 2016 will have a more athletic look, mixing materials such as leather with synthetic mesh and perforated suede. Sandals, sneakers, sneaker-sandals and classics, such as brogues and loafers, are interpreted with alternative soles in an urban and contemporary language. Light and comfortable flatforms and platforms in micro, handmade and lined with skin, characterise the design language of the collection and brand. The new colour palette is black, white and reflective silver and gold. www.danielacatraia.com Karolina Landowski, kl@step-magazine.com

Photos: Daniela Catraia

T

he Portuguese footwear brand Daniela Catraia debuted this year with its first collection for autumn/ winter 2015/16. It features strong lines, with the geometry and stiffness of the cut creating new structures in high heels and platforms. Jagged and overlapping skins create juxtapositions of tones and textures – matte with shiny, and smooth with textured. The hightech materials contrast with the nobility and detail of natural leather. Black is interpreted in a multitude of different ways as it is merged with other colours: black with black, black and red, black and blue, black and camel. Glitter and varnish on the leather also illuminate the black tones, while the playful use of texture, colour and brightness gives this footwear a new twist.


ADVERTISEMENT

AROUND THE WORLD

The new Napapijri Spring/Summer 2016 Collection gathers inspiration from all four corners of the world, as it takes us on an adventurous journey that encompasses different places, emotions and nuances.

I

nspired by the seasonal textile themes ‘Wanderlust’, ‘African powder’, ‘In the mood for colors’, ‘Sunset in Santorini’ and ‘Urban safari’, the new Spring/Summer 2016 Footwear Collection by Napapijri has been influenced by the world of travel and adventure. The collection includes a wide range of models for both men and women. Brightness, perforation and mesh materials will be the focus of next summer, ensuring a light, sporty and laidback look of summer freshness. Key styles will include men’s and women’s sneakers in classic leather or canvas models with vulcanized outsoles, and the new light-weight mesh models. Uppers will be made of high-quality leather, soft nubuck, canvas, breathable nylon and innovative mesh, and also incorporate the novel use of knitted fabrics. This mixture of materials, including the combination of pop-color nylon with suede, will give sneakers a whole new meaning. Special finishes and washes will play a key role in the treatment of material.

Batik patterns, floral prints and the typical Napapijri map will be printed on mesh, leather and textiles to match the textile collection. The footwear collection will focus on natural color tones, using different shades of beige, cognac, brown, black, blue and gray. Pop colors such as sunny yellow, orange, bright red, green and soft pastel colors will add a summery touch to the collection. White is still essential, especially in the women’s collection, with metallic surfaces such as rose gold, plain gold and silver coming into their own for detailing. The women’s collection ranges from sporty sneakers, fashionable espadrilles and wedges to open, flat sandals and thongs. In addition, the collection also includes luxury models with dressed up casual styles, feminine lace-ups with thick, lightweight soles, and soft booties. The men’s collection primarily focuses on low and mid-cut sneaker styles, lightweight casual shoes and summery thongs. When it comes to details and branding, it is important that these are always unique and tell a story. Key logo techniques this season include 3D embroidery, laser applications and prints, many of which are in tonal colors – and, last but not least, the Norwegian flag. www.hamm-footwear.com

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DESIGNER

BROTHERS IN SPIRIT

A young Swiss designer duo and their men’s shoe label Velt prove that cutting-edge aesthetics can go hand in hand with traditional craftsmanship.

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everyday wear. Velt’s high standards and the young label’s efforts to develop the perfect contemporary shoe have been recognised by the jury of Switzerland’s most renowned design award. Velt’s debut collection won the Swiss Design Award in 2013. Shortly afterwards, the international style bible ‘Monocole’ voted Velt as ‘footwear newcomer’.

MANUFACTURING PHILOSOPHY

The Velt name is still restricted to a small circle of fashion insiders. And if the founders have their way, the label’s manufacturing philosophy will continue in this vein. Stefan Rechsteiner and Patrick Rüegg are convinced that design and manufacturing need to go hand in hand. This is the only way to ensure the creation of a holistic product. The couple develop their ideas and prototypes in their design studio in Berlin, before the shoes are manufactured in their small factory in Switzerland. www.velt.ch Karolina Landowski, kl@step-magazine.com

Photos: Velt

T

he shoe label Velt was founded two years ago by the two Swiss designers, Stefan Rechsteiner and Patrick Rüegg. The two Zurich-born designers – who are now living and working in Berlin – share a common background with a degree in industrial design, which allows them to approach the art of shoemaking from a new, conceptional perspective. Both of them soon became interested in the question of whether it is possible to manufacture a new kind of contemporary shoe using traditional methods. However, this is exactly what Velt has been doing – every single season – since their breakthrough in 2013. The duo combine their design concepts, cuts and conceptional approach to shoes with conventional materials such as first-class leather. Their creative labour results in irresistible classic shoes, which, despite a certain amount of reserve, still flaunt a distinct je ne sais quoi. However, the somewhat graphic designs featuring strongly contrasting colours can still be combined with


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STORES

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STORES

BEYOND LIMITS

The architecture studio 3 Gatti has created a unique fashion cavern inside the World Financial Center in the huge Chinese city of Chongqing.

The store is the star: clothes are presented in a spellbinding atmosphere in the SND store.

Photos: Shen Qiang

F

rancesco Gatti’s imagination knows no bounds. The famous architect, who commutes between China and Italy, goes on a hunt for true innovation with each of his new projects. He wants to venture into unknown territory and develop amazing concepts. His work includes the concept store Alter in Shanghai and the Nanjing Automobile Museum. The SND store in Chongqing is another of his projects, in which he has quite clearly managed to think beyond anyone else, pushing out all limits. His mission? To create a new store for the Chinese fashion retailer SND in the World Financial Center of this megacity, considered the biggest city in the world with over 28 million residents. “We will hang everything from the ceiling,” was Francesco Gatti’s initial thought during the start phase of the project. If furniture and goods float in the air, customers can move freely around the store. This radical concept was the starting point for the rest of the assignment. Finally, a software programme helped to define the dimension and shape of transparent fibreglass plates that make up the “floating” ceiling. A total of 10,000 different shapes were conceived, which were then manufactured by a specialist company in China. “This has enabled us to create a ‘ceiling landscape’, which conjures up a spellbinding atmosphere in the store,” explains Francesco Gatti.

The individual elements are attached to parallel struts and can be swapped or modified easily.

SURREAL BEAUTY

The ceiling contrasts with compact flooring made from recycled construction timber and heavy concrete cubes. While customers can browse garments on floating clothes rails, they can find shoes and accessories displayed in illuminated boxes or lateral shelving. Indirect light, reflections and mirroring create a surreal atmosphere in the room. The sculptural design is reminiscent of the work of Spanish artist Antoni Gaudì. Francesco Gatti is satisfied with the SND project. He has managed to create an “uncomfortable” space, to coin the architect’s own words – and he means this in an entirely positive sense. “The store challenges the customer, provokes them, wakes them up with a jolt. I compare coming in to the store with a walk in the forest. Urban life should revolve much more around nature.” Helge Neumann, hn@step-magazine.com

SND STORE

World Financial Center Mall, Chongqing www.3gatti.com

2.2015 step 53


BRAND

HIPSTER HOPE

After witnessing the effects of extreme poverty on children in Central America, Oliver Shuttlesworth was inspired to find a sustainable solution that would equip children in the developing world with the tools needed to build a brighter future for themselves. After months of brainstorming, he decided to sell backpacks and other book bags, and help fund one year of education for a child in the developing world with every sale. Esperos was born. The name for the brand comes loosely from the Spanish verb ’esperar‘ which means ’to hope‘. Esperos works with established nonprofit organisations and donates 10% of every sale to fund the building of classrooms and materials for students in rural Kenya and Honduras. The bags are crafted in Austin, Texas and built to last. The brand uses durable, military-grade cotton duck canvas that is naturally stain resistant and water repellent. Each bag is designed to be stylish, functional and lasting. The collection features bright colour blocking, simple design elements, functional storage, sophisticated details and high-grade leather handles. www. esperosbags.com

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Photos: Esperos

The charity brand Esperos sells urban bags with a mission.


INTERNATIONALE ACCESSOIRES-MESSE

4.-7. SEPT. 2015

PARIS - PORTE DE VERSAILLES SCHUHE & SCHMUCK TASCHEN & LEDERACCESSOIRES ACCESSOIRES

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Ihr Kontakt in Deutschland : Exalis GmbH +49 (0) 30 6107 30 66 - whosnext@exalis.de

AD: CORDIALEMENT & ALEXIS PAZOUMIAN - PHOTO: ALEXIS PAZOUMIAN


STORES

NEW BUSINESS

Photos: Sneakerboy

Founder of Sneakerboy, Australian Chris Kyvetos, has created a new kind of retail concept for the 21st century luxury market.

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STORES

Customers reach Sneakerboy via a long tunnel. The seating areas are equipped with iPads to finalise purchases.

N

o warehouse, no till, no sales – just more design, hightech and sneakers. At the heart of Melbourne’s business district, in Little Bourke Street, a dark tunnel leads into a future-oriented retail concept. Chris Kyvetos started out on his Sneakerboy project around three years ago. The concept revolves around premium sneakers from leading fashion houses and the world’s hippest brands. Buscemi, Raf Simons, Saint Laurent, Lanvin, Versace, Maison Martin Margiela, Nike, Y-3, Giuseppe Zanotti and Balenciaga are just some of the labels in store. Luxury sneakers are the name of the game here. It was one particular event that pushed the former purchaser of the Australian department store Harrolds to focus on luxury sneakers: the naming of Alexander Wang as Head Designer at Balanciaga. “When a long-established French fashion house signed up a 29-year-old talented Taiwanese designer with a background in sportswear, this was my signal that the new generation of luxury consumer needed to be taken seriously.” However, Sneakerboy is much more than just another high-end sneaker store. The concept goes way beyond the conventional boutique. “New kinds of customers need a new kind of commerce,” explains Chris Kyvetos, confidently. And this is exactly what he has invented. “Young consumers know exactly what they are looking for. They are used to making very informed decisions and buying online. I believe they should be able

to do this in a store, too.” So what is the Sneakerboy philosophy? Customers can browse through the stunning interior of the futuristic store, try on shoes, and if they like them, can scan them at the terminals in store to find out if the right size is in stock. The items can then be ordered via an app on an iPad or iPhone. Three days later, the goods are delivered directly to the customer’s door. Kyvetos also runs an online store, which means that Sneakerboy has no warehouse in Melbourne. The store simply stocks samples in different sizes that customers can try on. Products are sold via a logistics centre in Hong Kong, to ensure the fastest delivery times to China. Doing away with expensive warehouse space means that the return on Sneakerboy store space is particularly high: 77 m² of the 80 m² premises is dedicated to product presentation. “As a multi-brand retailer, we don’t have the same margins as vertical players. This has enabled us to fully maximise the efficiency of processes and logistics in the store,” explains Chris Kyvetos. Helge Neumann, hn@step-magazine.com

SNEAKERBOY

1/265-281 Little Bourke St, Melbourne VIC 3000 www.sneakerboy.com

2.2015 step 57


DESIGNER

PRISON PEARLS The Lebanese bag label Sarah’s Bag not only ensures the survival of traditional handicraft, but it also gives a little dignity back to female prisoners.

58 step 2.2015

traditions of craftsmanship, embroidery, crocheting and textile making. After studying sociology at the American University of Beirut, Beydoun wrote her thesis on prostitution in Lebanon. She started with twelve beaded handbags made by prisoners in Baabda prison and set up a small stand at Souk al Barghout, an antique and craft fair in downtown Beirut. Soon afterwards, she launched Sarah’s Bag and opened her atelier in Beirut in 2000, bringing together her love of design and fashion with her desire to empower and work with underprivileged women. Her line of handmade handbags and accessories is designed around the skills of prisoners and ex-prisoners she has personally trained and worked with over

the past fifteen years. She mixes Arabic elements with pop culture influences and presents pillbox clutches, beaded parrot bags and colourful retro purses.

FROM BEIRUT TO PARIS

Today, over 150 artisans form the backbone of Sarah’s Bag, making it one of the most successful social entrepreneurship brands in the region. Stylish women from Tokyo to Caracas and from Beirut to Paris are sitting up and taking notice. One of these women is Amal Clooney, who has been spotted several times carrying a beaded pearl clutch designed by Sarah Beydoun. www.sarahsbag.com Karolina Landowski, kl@stp-magazine.com

Photos: Sarah‘s Bag

S

equin by tiny sequin, stitch by intricate stitch, a handbag comes to life. Those who are familiar with the small, beaded works of art in the Sarah’s Bag collection appreciate the authentic handicraft that goes into this bag label. Sarah Beydoun, born and raised in Lebanon, is the creative director and founder of Sarah’s Bag. She belongs to a generation of Beirut-based designers who came of age during the country’s sixteen-year civil war and are now contributing to rebuilding the city’s cultural life through their creative passion. Beydoun was one of the first designers in Lebanon to bring Middle Eastern pop culture into the mainstream, and to revive and reinvent the region’s rich


Fashion Trade Show www.the-gallery-duesseldorf.com


STORES

WINDOWS WITH WOW FACTOR From New York to Milan, the most spectacularly dressed shop windows focus on emotions, colours and movement.

60 step 2.2015


STORES

Movement is currently playing a key role in international window dressing. Louis Vuitton has oversized telephones floating around, while Bergdorf Goodman in New York has added a melancholy note with black paper garlands. The next shop window in one of the top department stores in the Big Apple has adopted a DIY look, using neon threads. Bottega Veneta brings motion to Milan with the unique dynamics of splashing water using very natural-looking see-through plastic as a prop.

2.2015 step 61


STORES

Photos: Mavis

No shop window should be without colour in the summer. Bergdorf Goodman emphasises the colours of his accessories with the pragmatic use of matching cables and plugs, while La Rinascente has planted a colourful paper forest in Milan. And although the tree trunks at Bloomingdales look a little more natural, the bright red background creates a surrealistic vibe.

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"INSPIRATION DRIVES US. CREATION IS OUR PASSION. TOMORROW BELONGS TO US." Anne rIS A IFM P

anuel Emm GENEVE HEAD A V E N GE

Sarah BErlIN D EsMO

Zoe orENcE l FIT f

GE Liisa EA COLLE N s CHEL Ts loNdo r OF A

r Xavie COLLEGE s I r A IS p T PAr OF Ar rE B ine Delph LA CAMB V ENsA

ruSS

ElS

15-17 sept. 2015 premierevision.com

© Aurore Valade / Picturetank

#wearepremierevision


NEWS

1.

2.

3.

BEHIND THE SCENES

An outstanding performance was achieved by photographer Domenik Broich and the good-humoured team at the cover shoot for the two step magazines.

4.

5.

64 step 2.2015

6.

7.

Photos: Karolina Landowski

1. What does this sneaker look like? Straight from the camera, onto the iPad – images are selected digitally in no time at all. 2. Are they real? Model Helena Dinuz checks out the green plants on the set. 3. Does the outfit fit properly? Stylist Rolf Buck views the first images at the cover shoot. 4. Hair in the right place? Hair & make-up artist Janine Burg gives Helena a natural look. 5. Everyone ready? The styling team gives male model Raoul the finishing touches. 6. Can I still see a crease? Stylist Rolf Buck makes an exception and picks up the iron. 7. Which one shall it be? There’s a choice of sneaker models for the step cover.


INSIDE THE ORDERING

SEASON

STAY TUNED. NEWSLETTER & E-PAPER

SUBSCRIBE NOW!

step-magazin.com


PREVIEW

IMPRINT

international Verlag Sternefeld GmbH & Co KG Oberkasseler Strasse 100 | 40545 Düsseldorf | Germany Postfach 11 12 49 | D-40512 Düsseldorf | Germany tel.: +49 (0) 2 11-5 77 08-0 | fax: +49 (0) 2 11-5 77 08-12/-90 www.sternefeld.de PUBLISHER: Michael Brumme

PREVIEW 1/2016 FASHION

The most important fashion and shoe trends for autumn/winter 2016/17

BRANDS

Les Joueurs Pairs in Paris Wal & Pai

STORES

Verner, Melbourne Maad Waters, Norderney

EDITOR IN CHIEF: Petra Salewski, tel. - 21, (person responsible for content according to German media law), e-mail: ps@step-magazin.de ASSISTANT EDITOR IN CHIEF: Karolina Landowski, tel. - 24, e-mail: kl@step-magazin.de EDITORIAL TEAM: Helge Neumann, tel. - 20 Kristina Schulze, tel. - 39 Michael Frantze, tel. - 25 e-mail: step.redaktion@sternefeld.de THIS EDITION’S AUTHOR: Thomas Henkelmann PHOTOGRAPHY: Cover: Domenik Broich GRAPHICS/LAYOUT: Claudia Reich, tel. - 34 MANAGING DIRECTOR: Michael Brumme PUBLISHING COORDINATOR: Caroline Witzlau, tel. - 31, e-mail: cw@sternefeld.de MEDIA & MARKETING DIRECTOR: Sabine Peters, tel. - 27, e-mail: sp@sternefeld.de BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MANAGER: Marina von Morr, tel. - 35, e-mail: mm@sternefeld.de MEDIASERVICE: Denise Arndt, tel. - 33, e-mail: da@sternefeld.de Divya Weiß, tel. - 37, e-mail: dw@sternefeld.de Kerstin Weihs, tel. - 38, e-mail: kw@sternefeld.de Rate card 20 is applicable from 01/01/15. SALES DIRECTOR: Dagmar Brumme, tel. - 26, e-mail: db@sternefeld.de SUBSCRIPTION SERVICE: Tanja Müller tel. +49 (0) 2 11 - 5 77 08 - 28, fax +49 (0) 2 11 - 5 77 08 - 12, e-mail: vertrieb@sternefeld.de, Oberkasseler Strasse 100, 40545 Düsseldorf, Germany Postal address: Postfach 111249, 40512 Düsseldorf, Germany step international publishes two issues, each one to coincide with the beginning of the order season. step also publishes two issues in German for German, Austrian and Swiss readers, as well as stepguide as an order booklet and stepkids. schuhkurier Official institution of Bundesverband des Deutschen Schuheinzelhandels e.V. (German association of shoe retailers) and official institution of schuhschweiz (Swiss shoe retail association) Reprinting is forbidden unless authorised by the publishers and accompanied by detailed references. Articles printed do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the editors. The publishers cannot be held responsible for any unsolicited manuscripts that are submitted. In the event of force majeure or industrial disruptions, the publishers cannot be held liable for failure to supply and are not liable to provide compensation. The place of fulfilment and jurisdiction is Düsseldorf. PRINTED BY: W. Kohlhammer Druckerei GmbH & Co. KG, Augsburger Strasse 722, 70329 Stuttgart, Germany

66 step 2.2015

SUPPLEMENTS: m2b, Oberhaching (total circulation) Formes/Penther, Winsen (part circulation)


special edition schuhkurier

2.2015 FRÜHJAHR/SOMMER 2016 www.step-magazine.de

NEW ISSUE

JULY 24TH 2015

BRANDS

Manuel Dupont

STORES

Sukha, Amsterdam

TRENDS

Frühjahr/Sommer 2016 step-magazin.de


step Ausgabe 02/2015  

Best of shoes & fashion spring/summer 2016 Other topics: Trends: Fashion – Seventies, Softness, Black&White +++ Stores: Sneakerboy +++ Desi...

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