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TONY WARD Photographed by Dimitris Theocharis


‘How boring is the art in the Museum, with these walls so white.. with these audience so quiet and the people moving so slowly. If Art could talk, it would ask for another context...’ GG

more guerilla than galleries

www.guerillagalleries.com


letter from the editor

Beautiful people, Every time the team at Schön! finishes a new issue, I realise that I love it even more than the last one. I see this latest edition, our ninth, as a celebration of new friendships and how far the magazine has come since we first started just a bit over a year ago. We have a supermodel on our front cover, which can’t be anything but a good sign, and the combination of unknown talent with elite creativity that separates us from the rest. It has always been my mission to fill the pages of Schön! with beauty and creativity. Our editorials are not ‘attractive’ in any ordinary sense, but we are not an ordinary magazine. Are our images intriguing? Yes. Exciting and inspiring? I hope so. If you flick through the pages, it’s very dark, isn’t it? We’ve been watching the shadows. But it is winter, you know, and maybe next time we’ll be in a sunnier mood. For now give yourself over to the dark side. But if you’re craving warmth, then let yourself be seduced by the smouldering Tony Ward, exuding strength and masculinity over twenty-four pages of beautiful photography. I hope you all love this issue of Schön! as much as I do, and that at least one thing in here leaves you feeling inspired. But finally I just must send my love to Jannis, Dimitris, Zohra and my team at Schön! who make every issue even better and more exciting. Love as always - be kind and Schön!

Raoul Keil, Editor-in-Chief


CREATIVE. PEOPLE. UNITED. If you have the correct reader application you can scan the Nineteen74.com QR barcode to check in now on your phone.


Pierre

Dal

Jannis Corso

Stefan Giftthaler

Tony Ward

Dawn Mellor

Josei

Exorcism

Celebi

Reis

Matthew Lyn

Yvonne Renard

Hakan

Saskia

Everyone

involved

Alex Hopkins

The LaRoache Brothers

The Dualism

Obscurité Contributors

Fulvio Maiani Samuel Bonner

Marble

Paul Heilig

/

João Paulo Nunes

I Rock NY

Akif

Krikis

Opinionated

Guilt

Thanassis

C’est N’est Pas Une Chaise Nina Hagen Sarah Fox

You Bin

Maruyama Jannis Tsipoulanis

Shinichi

Nuptialis

Rocio Frausto / Shelly Love

/

Tony Ward Interviewed

Design’ed’ Hotels

Caitlin Leslie

Dimitris Theocharis

Sarah Fox

Liu Fei

Rayan Ayash

The Imaginarium

Secret Garden

Stefan Milev

Caitlin Leslie

Dessus

Stumbles Upon

Dessous

Reis

Wild Boys

Saskia

Mastori*Motwary Wabi-Sabi

Jeremy Geddes

Tsipoulanis

The White Cosmonaut

Carbon

J3adore

contents


I N

P R I N T

at schonmagazine.com

Schรถn! 9 Cover / Tony Ward photographed by Dimitris Theocharis Tony is wearing a velvet 3 piece suit by D&G, Shirt by Polo Ralph Lauren and fur scarf by Hockley


J adore 3

photography / Jannis Tsipoulanis


Previous page Gold painted stretch lambskin body suit / Jitrois Stretch lambskin dress / Jitrois Suede gloves / La Bagagerie


Lambskin jacket / Jitrois Silver painted stretch lambskin dress / Jitrois Smoky quartz necklace / Duffy


Gold painted stretch lambskin body suit / Jitrois Silver stretch lambskin pants / Jitrois "Gourmette" bracelet in silver / Duffy "Aquatic Spine" bracelets in silver / Duffy "Primal" bracelet in silver and diamantes / Jasmine Alexander


Stretch lambskin dress with embroidery / Jitrois Aged stretch lambskin pants with studs / Jitrois “Aquatic Spine� silver necklace / Duffy Gloves / La Bagagerie Suede boots / Christian Louboutin


Stretch suede and jersey dress / Jitrois Suede overknee boots / Christian Louboutin Earrings / HervĂŠ Van der Straeten


Lambskin coat / Jitrois Corsage belt / Giuseppe Zanotti Suede overknee boots / Christian Louboutin


Gold painted stretch lambskin body suit / Jitrois


Lambskin on silk muslin dress / Jitrois Studded belt / Jitrois Shoes / Christian Louboutin


Photographer / Jannis Tsipoulanis   @ tsipoulanistudio.com Styling / Gregor Doll Hair / Olivier De Vriendt @ Artlist Make Up / Christopher Kam @ Airport Agency using Shiseido Model / Victoria @ Angels Models Photography Assistants / 1st Assistant / Laurent Dubin 2nd Assistant / Stephane Leguay Retouch / Plusdesign.org


Waxed stretch suede dress with laser cut details / Jitrois Suede gloves / La Bagagerie Suede overknee boots / Christian Louboutin


Castillo-Romero

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Huson

Media

Christian

Lauren Hölscher

Palmer /

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Media

UK, /

christian.hoelscher@husonmedia.com

lauren.palmer@husonmedia.com

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Media

Andrews

Switzerland Michael

Germany,

Distribution

Huson

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/ Zhengye Pang

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Tanya

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pineapplemediauk.com

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Austria)

Event Manager

Alex Hopkins / Paul Heilig / Rocio Frausto /

Editors

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General Contact / Submissions mag@nineteen74.com

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Special Thanks

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ia.com

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Caitlin Leslie / Sarah Fox / Saskia Reis

Editor-in-Chief

editors


O N L I N E at schonmagazine.com


MASTORI * MOTWARY NUPTIALIS


MASTORI*MOTWARY STUDIO is an Athens based designer duo. Maria Mostari and Filep Motwary follow their heart and their instinct in everything they do. This is not only a strong professional collaboration but a deep friendship between two artists who share the same attitude towards life. *You are two designers working as one. Is your relationship rather harmonically symbiotic or do you also know how to fight with each other? We work together by choice and due to our mutual respect for each other our relationship indeed is “harmonically symbiotic”. There are moments with arguments, days of opposite opinions and hours of silence, but our problems are always solved through conversation.   *Filep, you are a fashion designer, a blogger, an illustrator, a photographer and a journalist. What else, did I forget anything? There are plenty of other things I am capable of, which are not yet revealed (laughs). I enjoy all aspects of fashion, I really do. The truth is that without blogging none of this “creativity” would have become known to the outside world. Sometimes people ask me: “How can you be a designer and report on someone else’s work at the same time?” Of course I can, why not? I have been studying history and reading magazines for as long as I remember and there is always a pen in my right hand and a notebook in my left. My library is rich with hundreds of books. I know the industry very well. And it’s not like I baptized myself a photographer or a journalist. I have interviewed some of the most important pioneers of the industry and I get hired to shoot for fashion magazines or do portraits from time to time. I never studied any of the above, I just do them by instinct. The only thing I am not talented at is selling my work. I can sell others, but not me. *Maria, you have always been a strong collaborator with other artists and designers. How important is mutual support in the competitive fashion business? I think both Filep and me are the least competitive humans on this planet. We take each other’s projects very seriously, no matter if it is our own work or in collaboration with third parties. Working with others helped me to discover the depth of my own creativity and aspects of my own personal signature. This way I conquered my past, revisited “unfinished” ideas and even perfected them. I see my limits and fears within collaborations. And I step on them. *MASTORI*MOTWARY STUDIO is based in Athens. How would you define the Greek mentality/spirit of fashion? This is a very hard question to answer. In the past we were more involved with the Athenian fashion scene. These days we keep ourselves in our studio, like an unborn baby safe in its mother’s belly. We breathe the news through internet or phone calls. We try not to get influenced by trends, what people consider popular in magazines or what the buyers want to promote in boutiques for their own business success. We like it this way. It makes us feel safe. Our work is about “inner research”, a body of work which evolves out of itself.


*Have you already found your own artistic identity within the Greek fashion scenery? If yes, how would you describe it? We feel real enthusiasm when someone comments on our work. On the other hand, as time passes, it gets more difficult for us to justify what we do by using words. It is best for someone else to decide whether we have an identity or not. The work is there for everyone to see, wear or judge. *You present your collections in fashion films. What is the background of showcasing your work in this kind of audio-visual projects? We don’t have any background in filming. Cinema is one of our passions. Both of our films came out because of a longing to communicate our clothes and jewellery together in a five minute conversation of moving images. Nevertheless, since some people have offered their platforms for us to step on and showcase these films (ASVOFF, Dazed Digital, Vogue Italia, Pop) we feel that even though there was no goal behind them, a goal was created and achieved in the end. Maybe we have other films coming up, maybe not. Certainly we work with the finest people every time we film. The greatest team of fashion professionals in Greece supports us. *Your collections’ themes do not necessarily match with each other, each season is different. Is your work all about reinvention? We like creating parallel stories. Something like the Krzysztof Kieslowski movies where the heroine is transferred from one city to another, keeping her inner identity, disguised in different clothes and jewellery. *Heart or instinct? What is more important? Both! One cannot do without the other. Instinct helps to decide and make the right manoeuvres when danger is ahead, the danger of losing your true goal. The heart gives life to something cold. You cannot separate them. In addition, logic, instinct and heart bring out a balanced result. A language that is comprehensible even internationally. *I consider myself an artist. I am ready to start off my own creative journey. What is your recommendation? An artist is like GOD. An artist takes something from darkness, the abyss of sea and brings it out to life. You cannot entitle yourself an artist before your own work does it for you. There is no method to become an artist and no school can help you if you are not born as one. We would like to thank Maria Mastori and Filep Motwary for sharing their experience and their thoughts with us. Filep also feeds your design urges on a daily basis on his blog @ unnouveauideal.typepad.com .


MASTORI*MOTWARY STUDIO “NUPTIALIS / COUTURE FALL 2010 “ Costume / Filep Motwary Jewellery / Maria Mastori Photography / Thanassis Krikis Fashion Editor / Nicholas Georgiou Wig / Thanos Samaras Make Up / Yiorgos Chatziioannides Model / Chantal Le Fevre Interview / Saskia Reis


CARBON Photography / pierre dal corso


Fur headpiece / Aganovich by J. Smith Mask / Phylea Long tulle dress / Eva Minge Couture


Enlaced tulle hat / Barbara I Gongini Silk tulle stole / Issey Miyake Lurex sleeve / Junko Shimada


Stitch stole / Issey Miyake Corset belt / Phylea


Felt hat / Murmure by Spirit Leather corset belt / Gustavo Lins Multi-fabrics dress / Barbara I Gongini


Horns / Eva Minge Suspenders / Alexis Mabille Tights / Wolford Buckskin boots / Guiseppe Zanotti Design


Feather shoulder pad / Made by the Stylist High panties / Wolford Leather thigh boots / Barbara Bui


Knit socks / Manuel Bolano Leather platform shoes / Manuel Bolano


Photographer / Pierre Dal Corso Styling / Delphine Dubreuil & Sarah Cohen Hair & Make Up / Aya Fujita Photo Assistant / Thomas ChĂŠnĂŠ Model / Sheri Chiu Special thanks to Nicolas


Wabi-Sabi

‘To discover beauty where you least expect it … An extraordinary Wabi-Sabi tube experience with Leonard Koren’

It was one of those mornings when you feel totally calm and down to earth. As I entered the tube, this most silent space of public transport, my senses focused on the people around me: a student with big earphones, highly concentrated on the minimal beats he was listening to, an office lady turning the e-pages of her digital “Guide To Effective Communication” and then, my eyes got stuck on an old man’s hand. He was holding a book, but this one was different. The cover was beige-brown and its texture was somehow in line with his roughly wrinkled hand. “What kind of book is this?” I asked him. He smiled at me, gently, and revealed the title page: “Wabi-Sabi for Artists, Designers, Poets and Philosophers”. “What is Wabi-Sabi,” I asked him. His blue eyes sparkled like diamonds and he said in broken English: “It is humility, the appreciation of imperfection and the acceptance of transience.” The old man disappeared at the next stop, his last words echoing through the tube tunnel: “Go, get it!”

Leonard Koren, the author of the book, is a trained UCLA architect, but despite an eclectic Japanese tea house he claims he “never built anything” . Which is not quite true, of course: after he had created an avant-garde magazine called “WET: the Magazine of Gourmet Bathing” in the 1970s, his creative journey brought him to Tokyo to produce Music Videos for Japanese television. Since the early 1980s he has written books about design. Thereby, he found his very own definition of Wabi-Sabi:

“Wabi-Sabi is a beauty of things imperfect, impermanent, and incomplete. It is a beauty of things modest and humble. It is a beauty of things unconventional.”


According to Koren, Wabi-Sabi has its roots in the traditional Japanese tea ceremony and even early Japanese publications of the early 20th century used similar sentences to explain the meaning of it. Shinichi Maruyama, a New York City-based artist, was born in Nagano, Japan. As a high school boy he was into mountain climbing and started photography due to his longing to preserve the beauty of the landscape. “I’ve focused, with great depth and concentration, on the values of all the aspects of Zen and not just limited Wabi-Sabi,” Maruyama says. “In turn, with this study, I hope, that it will awaken my inner sense of art and help me to discover how to lead a better life.” The aesthetic sensibility of Wabi-Sabi influences not only Japanese designers like Rei Kawakubo (Comme des Garçons) or Masataka Matsumura (Giuliano Fujiwara) but also Western arts and art concepts of design and fashion; designer and multimedia artist Hussein Chalayan is said to be inspired by the movement. Wabi-Sabi challenges us to redefine our hitherto perspectives on beauty and to enhance its deepness within the details of nature’s artistry. Koren first got in touch with Wabi-Sabi in the late 1960s and used it to find his way out of an “artistic dilemma about how to create beautiful things without getting caught up in the dispiriting materialism that usually surrounds such creative acts.”

Still, through his book Koren made the concept accessible to Western people who could normally not gain insight into this perception of Japanese aesthetic. And we can learn from it. We can widen our horizons. It enables us to question what beauty is, where and how it becomes not only visible but also sensible. Beauty might be hidden behind a onedimensional cognition of what we were taught is “beautiful”. Even though Koren admits that Wabi-Sabi might not be to everyone’s liking, he suggests it should still be in everyone’s interest to prevent Wabi-Sabi from disappearing.

It seems to be somewhat like a combination of fragmented pieces of the approach towards and the perception of life: an aesthetic concept of beauty, a state of mind, which can become even a way of life. As Koren states, it is the core concept of Japanese culture. However, since in Japan there are no books or professionals who translate the concept of Wabi-Sabi rationally, it is quite difficult for most Japanese to explain the concept to foreigners.

So the purpose and sense of what is called Wabi-Sabi, not only for artists but for all human beings, might be observed even in a crowded tube wagon: where a student sits next to an office lady, where an old man shares his reading with a young woman, and every stop holds the mystery of both, becoming and transience.

“Wabi-Sabi did not exist as a coherent concept until I synthesized it and created the paradigm and the definition,” says Koren, who published his book in 1994. “The Wabi-Sabi sensibility I constructed, elucidated, and fleshed out provides a succinct and attractive antithesis to the classical notion of beauty as something perfect, monumental, and enduring.” For Shinichi Maruyama, “the feeling of Wabi-Sabi is difficult to express.”

To acknowledge the importance of cultural diversity, as Koren states, “especially in opposition to the accelerating trend toward the uniform digitalization of all sensory experience, wherein an electronic “reader” stands between experience and observation, and all manifestation is encoded identically” might exactly be the reason, why reading a book about Wabi-Sabi makes total sense for … all of us.

And he points out that as many words as there are in both English and Japanese these words “can’t and shouldn’t be used to describe this most delicate of Japanese aesthetics. And yet, if there is anyone (who) sees Wabi-Sabi in my art work, it is because I have tried to represent a sense of fragility and an incompleteness that permeates the world throughout my work.”

For further reading about Wabi-Sabi see Which “Aesthetics” Do You Mean?: Ten Definitions by Leonard Koren, where he explains the epiphany that led to his construction of the Wabi-Sabi paradigm. Text / Saskia Reis Photography / Shinichi Maruyama

Information about Leonard Koren as found on his website leonardkoren.com. Excerpts are with permission quoted from his book “Wabi-Sabi for Artists, Designers, Poets and Philosophers”


Guilt

photography•Akif Hakan Celebi


Staring at my own reflection, I see nothing but an echoing pool of thought. I thought about what lays beneath these effortless sheets of fabric. Silence is listening to silence Guilt - The word absorbs itself. Innocence... is fleeting, Guilt lasts until the decaying of the sun.

Photography / Akif Hakan Celebi @ Factory311 Image Licensing Model / Nana Rapeblossom


artwork / jeremy geddes

The White Cosmonaut


Previous page The White Cosmonaut by Jeremy Geddes There is Glory in our Failure by Jeremy Geddes @ jeremygeddesart.com


Alley by Jeremy Geddes @ jeremygeddesart.com


Designing video games may not seem like the mostly likely entry to the lifestyle of a painter, but for Jeremy Geddes, that is exactly how his journey began.

The Melbourne-based artist only started painting full-time in 2003, and has since gone on to exhibit his work in Hong Kong and won multiple prizes including the Spectrum Gold Awards for his work entitled ‘Doomed’. Although an unconventional entry to the profession, you can definitely see how Geddes’ background in video gaming has influenced his work. His paintings are very photorealistic and exceptionally cinematic, which makes the viewer almost believe that they are truly entering this new world that faces them. Geddes is especially known for his ‘Cosmonaut’ collection, a melancholic construction of astronauts exploring the Earth as if it was a new planet. They focus on architecture, landscaping and objects that would be usually found in cosmopolitan areas, suggesting that we, as humans, are alienated from our own environment. This is definitely art that makes you think and question your ability to be able to help sustain our world for future generations. Each painting appears to tell a story and convey a message through the use of a subdued palate and dark, atmospheric scenery, thus giving the impression of gloom and fragmentary desolation.


The empty landscapes in the paintings seem to be the source of the pessimism – a setting created to engulf the cosmonaut as well as the spectators. The specific method of creating these artworks takes Geddes months to complete. He first starts with the composition and colour tone: setting the scene is pivotal for the overall look. Next, the actual painting is drawn before it gets glazed and tonally altered to add depth to the shade and texture. These realistic images are fairly theatrical, and some may even say overwhelming due to the scale and proportions of everything involved in the piece. Everything looks authentic to the extent that it becomes hard to believe that this is some sort of alternative universe, as ultimately, each image appears more sincere than the last. His other pieces of work are similarly dark and brooding, showing classic horror with a sci-fi twist. The main theme appears to be somewhat overshadowed by the lyrical, moody tones of the paintings, yet when looking through the images in succession, it is the first emotion to overcome the viewer: loneliness. The image always shows a physical dislocation between the subject and its residence, with common factors

being empty spaces and dramatic view-pointing. Geddes is perhaps suggesting that we are in no way connected to our surroundings anymore. As we continue along this path of digitalism and come across new scientific discoveries, we no longer rely on the environment as much as human beings have done in the past. This lack of communication between the inhabitants of the world and the Earth itself is palpable, and Geddes profoundly shares this point of view through his original paintings. Jeremy Geddes had once stated that he wanted to uncover a new world, and that is exactly what he has achieved with his ‘Cosmonauts’ compilation. For his second exhibition in Hong Kong, the artist is extending this collection and it will be shown to the general public from November 2010 onwards.

Artwork / Jeremy Geddes Words / Sarah Fox

Heath Death by Jeremy Geddes @ jeremygeddesart.com


The Street by Jeremy Geddes @ jeremygeddesart.com


Wild Boys

Photography / Jannis Tsipoulanis


Pinstriped marine wool suit / Lanvin Bottom layer white shirt / Pringle of Scotland Middle layer tuxedo shirt / Adam Kimmel Top layer white shirt with pearl detail / Qasimi Bow tie / Dunhill Blue wet low sailor shorts / Romain Kremer Derby boots / Lanvin High waisted belt / Lanvin Leather waistcoat with straps / Julius


Pinstriped wool waistcoat / Jean Paul Gaultier Monsieur Trousers / Jean Paul Gaultier Monsieur Black wool skirt / Jean Paul Gaultier Monsieur Light blue cotton shirt / APC Fleece sweatshirt / APC Black tie / Dunhill Corset / Stylist’s own Rings / Stylist’s own Wooden platform patent leather shoes / Wooyoungmi


Suit / Cerruti Shirt / Kriss Van Assche Black tie / Wooyoungmi Long cardigan / Wooyoungmi Orange crop top / Romain Kremer Boots / Julius Silver rings / Stylist‘s own


Jacket / Gaspard Yurkievich Printed trousers / Alexander McQueen Blue shorts / Romain Kremer Shirt / DKNY Leather top / Songzio Snake skin shoes / Lanvin Neckpiece / Stylist’s own


Suit / Alexander McQueen Shirt / Alexander McQueen Leather shoes / Hermès Socks / Falke High waisted belt / Stylist's own Neckpiece / Stylist’s own Rings / Stylist's own


Suit / Miharayasuhiro Shirt & Waistcoat / Gaspard Yurkievich Black wool skirt / Jean Paul Gaultier Monsieur Red socks / Falke Shoes / Wooyoungmi


Suit jacket / Hermès Navy cotton trousers / Kriss Van Assche Waistcoat worn as skirt / Kriss Van Assche Shirt / Dunhill Denim sleeveless vintage jacket / Levis Velvet bow tie / Adam Kimmel Shoes / Kenzo Rings / Stylist’s own


Wool suit / Gaspard Yurkievich Leather pants / Qasimi High waisted belt / Lanvin White shirt / Viktor & Rolf Tie / Stylist’s own Suspenders / Gaspard Yurkievich Shoes / Julius


Blue cotton suit / Wooyoungmi Black wool skirt / Jean Paul Gaultier Monsieur Felt bow tie / Wooyoungmi Wool sweater / Lanvin Ice print shirt / Alexander McQueen Black military boots / Julius


Suit with chain print / Alexander McQueen Gold mixed silk long sleeve t-shirt / Lanvin Shirt / Alexander McQueen Trench coat / Lanvin Tie / DKNY Corset belt / Stylist’s own Rings / Stylist's own Biker boots with chain print / Alexander McQueen


Pinstriped suit / Dries Van Noten White shirt with pearl details / Qasimi Vintage bow tie / Lanvin Shoes / Alexander McQueen Belt / Lanvin Waistcoat worn as skirt / Kriss Van Assche White lace mask piece / Stylist's own


Suit / Louis Vuitton Gold hooded jumper / Lanvin Shirt / Viktor & Rolf Waist band / Stylist’s own Leather shoes / Alexander McQueen Leather bum bag / Kriss Van Assche Tie / Stylist’s own Tie broche / Olga Kosica


Blazer suit jacket / Miharayasuhiro Suit trousers / DKNY Felt bib / Wooyoungmi Gold trousers roll up / Lanvin Shoes / Lanvin Scarf / Stylist’s own


Photographer / Jannis Tsipoulanis @ tsipoulanistudio.com Styling / Andrej Skok Models / Nicolas Ripoll @ Bananas Models Wael @ Major Paris Hair / Christian Attuly @ b4agency.com Make Up / Claire Raimbault @ b4agency.com Photography Assistants / 1st Assistant / Laurent Dubin 2nd Assistant / Henri de Carvalho 3rd Assistant / Stephane Leguay Styling Assistant / 1st Assistant / Lars Byrresen Petersen 2nd Assistant / Anna Bickel Image Retouch / Plusdesign.gr


Blue cotton suit / Dunhill Cotton shirt / DKNY Black wool skirt / Jean Paul Gaultier Monsieur Bow tie / Adam Kimmel Snakeskin shoes / Lanvin


Wild Boys BEHIND THE SCENES


Yvonne Renard’s

OP N ONATED Can You Say Dior, Baby? There is a swarm of new haute couture hitting our streets daily: the sizes may be smaller than zero, but prices are skyrocketing. Don’t worry, the designers haven’t invented yet skinnier women. It is simply the latest baby haute couture and everyone wants a piece of it. I was wondering when this high fashion for babies would hit us hard. If there is a large market for pricey goodies for adults, it is only logical to assume these consumers will treat their children to the same things. I remember how, while I was growing up and out of clothes, my mom would thoughtfully rewash them, pack them, and give them away to her friends’ young ones. When it came to babies 20 years ago, it wasn’t much about fashion; clothing was more of a practicality. My mom was a fashion designer, so I had some very cute outfits. She still talks of a suit and a trench coat identical to hers that she made me when I was three. It must have been cute indeed, but even as a baby I was suited up. The good thing about having a fashion conscious mom is that I didn’t walk around dressed up in pink from head to toe - because twenty years ago that was the whole idea of fashion for kids. Boys wore blue, girls wore pink. The snazzier the better! I’ve heard rumors that parents in America still do it, but for all I know it’s just hearsay. Today, things are quite different. Baby lines have become a very lucrative business strategy, for who wouldn’t do or buy anything for their child? But let’s be honest here: when you buy Prada for your baby, you’re not really buying it for your baby, now are you? Three year olds can barely pronounce Burberry, let alone know what it stands for. In actual fact, you’re buying it for yourself. Not that there’s anything wrong with that, it is impossible to avoid baby fashion nowadays. You want your kid to look cute; you want everyone to tell you how adorable they are. I don’t even consider it that much of a vanity. It’s completely understandable that all parents with unlived dreams (which must make for about 99% of the population) will want their children to live those dreams. I want my kid to be just like me, only more successful. Effectively, it’s my second chance.

Suddenly, all of our 1990s heroes are old enough and are having kids. Not only do they name them after vegetables or serial killers, but they also dress them in the cutest outfits you have ever seen. Now, whilst Dior Baby on Avenue Montaigne will, one day, be the main reason for me having a child at all, certain things that I don’t like about baby fashion have come to my attention. Have you heard of high heels for babies? They are not ‘heelarious’; they are despicable, bringing to mind an image of Little Miss America. Give children a break! Dressing them up is cute, dressing them up and judging them is not cute. When I hear things, such as heels for kids, I have a red light flashing in my head: “dumb mommy around”. I blame celebrities for the fact that baby fashion has reached all corners of the rich and privileged world. They promote baby fashion. Suddenly, all of our 1990s heroes are old enough and are having kids. Not only do they name them after vegetables or serial killers, but they also dress them in the cutest outfits you have ever seen. I’ll bet you Suri (what does that name mean again?) has a bigger closet than I do living space. Angelina, on the other hand, is obviously very socially conscious. She keeps adopting babies so she can recycle clothes. If that isn’t kind-heartedness... Unfortunately some celebrities go so far as to release their own baby lines. Yes, yes they really do, but celebrities and their fashion lines are a whole another story. The fact remains that children grow fast, and therefore grow out of their clothes before they’ve barely been worn. This may come as a shock, but your baby won’t think twice about puking on the ridiculously expensive Dior jacket you just bought them, but I suspect that you, the buyer, will.

Words / Yvonne Renard @ opinionated-weekly.blogspot.com/


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DESSOUS DESSUS

DESSOUS DESSUS Photography / Stefan Milev


Previous page Body / Blush Skirt / Vintage Necklace / David Aubrey Bracelet / David Aubrey Blouse / Ralph Lauren Bra / Chantal Thomass Necklace / David Aubrey


Body / Rispetto Bra / Chantal Thomass Bracelet / David Aubrey


Shirt / Rispetto Bra / Chantal Thomass Skirt / Vintage Turban / Vintage Earring / David Aubrey Necklace / David Aubrey


Bra / Chantal Thomass Necklace / David Aubrey


Bra / Blush Necklace / David Aubrey Opposite Jumpsuit / COS Bra / Chantal Thomass Earrings / David Aubrey


Photographer / Stefan Milev @ stefanmilev.com  c/o kombinatrotweiss.com / larapixie.com Photo Assistant / Markus Erpel Hair & Make-Up / Gregor Makris www.bigoudi.de / larapixie.com Styling / Florian Winges Styling Assistant / Lukas Wallisch Model / Lea Talay @ megamodelagency.com


The

m u i r a n i Imag iews sto interv Rocio Frau

e Shelly Lov


colossal sets ry portrait and tu en -c th en te Influenced by s, an eigh ve’s repertoire. , punk rock star Lo ns ia ly ic el ag Sh dance m in s, re er orm es of natu contemporary Acrobatic perf ined in ballet, unremitting forc e tra th ly oning of al iti in w ns ig fe tra a or Mueck and ndon before d Lo exemplify only an in h n nc ba Ly , La er d hlemm otland an but of her first the works of Sc m since the de ce School of Sc ai an cl D ac e l th na io om at fr hy ort films screen g intern and choreograp nvention, her sh s been garnerin co ha d an ve I.C.A on Lo as g, re in ntrol of oundhouse, the toward filmmak the conscious co bitions at The R of hi ex ee g Fr in . ud 01 cl 20 in 4. short film in als worldwide, ts on Channel m and arts festiv veral broadcas se d an s at numerous fil en re inues to BBC’s Big Sc e director cont in London, The d technique, th an motion e iv ith at w rr g na ty in genre, Experimentin ili y. at or rs st r ve a in ng t di rin mman nique du g he d movemen Imbued with co ds motion tech tween space an ar be d w e an ck lin ba ia g el c in ifi ‘D rs ve a spec atch’, explore the tra she developed four films, ‘Scr ry ysical theater, culminated in at various indust th ed 02 rn 20 ea in ve graphics and ph on ha nd e es Lo ic Th in us ’. e’ m he Plac hile her otten Circus residency at ‘T reen Award; w Sc and ‘The Forg ’ on lm y gfi ph ra lin og ‘C ’, t Chore George’, ‘POD uding IMZ Bes minations incl no d an ds s. ar de aw accola astered further ve also devotes videos have m tions, Shelly Lo ra bo g lla co d an on topics relatin her craft rope and abroad ce of nurturing ic en Eu er ed in ph ec ps os pr ho e m ks th at g or w ent of Acknowledgin ut colleges and e, in a developm that cturing througho ce. Furthermor a fantasy film an m n; or tio rf fic pe her efforts to le d th an ng a le er e m ur ca at e fe th for rect a to video/dance to create and di re, Love plans tion. fla fic ic of em ld ch or al w and usic into the m d an t en em brings mov


your you describe ow would and H rs . be Q em m to progression ith the crew l w ra p tu hi na s? ns es a tio e oc la ed lik uction pr low re ore A. It seem during the prod that would al ap s ng ry er art Si st m e p, du or th o. rf in d. in pe n e an cally, th e into k as a participatio ational mov y films specifi y allenge my wor rn m ke Q. Before your te ch n l in d O al . an e A an p ar e lo er er ve m you w ume design be a mediu st e- me to de to co re d th ed d an ar ith le Arts Festival, pe w or u ct ap y yo os dire closel Dance, where director. Prom d I work very try out some guest of Reel along with Q d potentially collaborators an ps p the world ul lo ho co ve ks I e. de or yl e w re st w he m al as w the start lop my visu elbourne, om ve day dance fil fr M de d d em an an th m work is s fil h ea rt y ey, Pe creative id camera. M ld on ou t w pu w e & As in Sydn ho w e, k very closely m that a creative sens vised so I wor you creative freedo n de h ca uc ly d m Australia. In al an ic k. We w p ys ho , ho ph look devise the wor r each works Q. Specifically ess? ping the visual performers to oc lo y you prepare fo riod pr ve m e pe de l tiv ith sa in ra w ar bo ve he the colla did you ha vising or re e de th a as ve w ’ ? ha briefly describe os ve ro lly Lo usua epts th ugh of the vide ings of Shelly ideas and conc place you have me and style e st m th fir ra p e og lo A. The ‘Imagin th und pr ve in e de b tiv ment to ocess. The so To get the jo the retrospec sually, my treat c physical pr U alongside A. ifi title given to ther t. d ec ge le en sp to I m k a at at or tre th w write a kshops d I also e images n and to the wor lots of referenc er, composer an sed on the to ow y ba gn ith m si w as g de d w tin le le fil ea tit ok cr be . This e intended lo verall, when an would O th in y. of t d el se ea an os the screenings id cl lly er ry an ra os d ve ld give much cl films are gene have a look an is in that wou lationships are to th re os e nd idea that my th ith de te vi k W I or ic e. So w us ac m e video. stems ‘other ’ sp n working in kshops of th on and the rest e imaginary or involved. Whe s of the wor ed down early are much mor ok nt s nn lo pa le a pi ci ro g el rti e fe tin pa th ea , e cr s, ly e er al ar ak ci u m er ite yo m m mind, th m qu fil se , co ur ly es or real e. Of co erent disciplin the particular the process is the from ther (artists of diff appropriate to separated and sers) explored is po at m th ve co el ha d fe an ey d s th an Usually dancers, writer ared my films different. e working for. ce’. Having sh like what you y artist you ar el ey er th m as I t concept of ‘spa , en em m sional training your treat actice with th s your profes atory chosen ha or pl and working pr ow ex . H d ith . an w Q l choreography, ve come up into a playfu porary dance, em here they ha led the artists nt w co em in th epared you to was up and music pr ons did you r ch si te su us ea sc of th g di es process and it al of ic om mus t types when directin ideas. The outc ring the pred technically tful Q. Wha du ui an fr ns ly e ia al took their own ic m tic so us r tis m fo ar ng? ith the ation made deos and teachi were have w playful investig films, music vi dancer and process? exciting ideas n a e ith tio m w uc t as so en od d er pr nd an ff ou di gr ry ck ve ba en y imaginings be M has A. my working A. Each promo having varying has been key in r ny he pa ap m born. gr co eyes eo rd or co nd and re filmmaker my more ch d vision. As a orable each ba tists like to be an ar em und e e m so m tic d t ac So os an pr t. t m pu en movem uss the as your levels of in are focused on nd e meet and disc Q. What w rs w ou ea e gr d or ck an ef ba ? er is ce th ; as Th an eel D e involved t subtle way. Ladyhawk w ap , os sc ce m e nd d an th la st an experience at R t in in s en r es en er s ev ther. Fo my proc mpletely diff ginning in term tists idea toge finitely fed into ar be r de e t he th A. Being in a co os ot m om ith s fr w ha g ed ork. involv gether g and sharin ch to making w Seeing quite scussed ideas to is great. Meetin r my approa was inspiring. sion and we di ou vi ds e of in th n m of tio e na tiv e, bi a com and crea retrospectiv d director of n’t e story line was together in a oreographer an other artists do ngths and th ch e, re e st s’, tim th my work put e e s m A tiv sa . ea e Q cr Forgotten Circu ghts. At th see the s such as ‘The e out of thou m e’, I could finally m fil rg t ca eo l. or G at al sh d th at s an ed ea the id get involv ’ and ‘Delia D e O th ‘P of ’, d es lm de in naivety and ng gfi in le ‘Clin nical chal ings. I was rem strong what were some of the tech tation a e en es ‘chance’ happen lin rim in pe pe pi rm ex n te oductio what de ‘play’ as mmetry, encountered during the pr a truly Q. In general, sy of importance of it Is rth ? bi on e si th vi your ion and composition to leads to invent of these films? s where I have imagining. or s? t cu en fo om g, m u are A. When making dance film in yo light or at unique th e ac her and direct of the sp astical or been both a choreograp pendent A. The design ly nt de al fa in ic is ys k an or ph th w e e bo y when th ntrast as e films ar over their framing is ke Working in co tion ume, styling this is purely as th st na m co bi do m n, ee co io fr ct a e re tiv crea art di comes artist who has e industry, stylized. The than this concept. devised; my role be e all key in rector within th director rather ar di d a g an in e as r ht th n d he g lig tio an ap si tin d s gr po ea an in eo a cr idea es or in in ch ng n le nt he of al rta w ch ly impo e main ly lucky creative Lighting is real ithin very having divided roles. Th to w I feel increasing g ed k in w or lo try w al to lly s be ra ay ne g alw and to ch ms were ge oa fil pr e es ap fantasy. Havin as th l to to experiment g ia in ed er mak d set mat s, I have tend hts off get enough time to devise an lig g limited budget e in freedom. th be g is in m rn fil when the cally by tu a have also things theatri want to see the devising process is as u u w yo yo it s, s s m ea m fil ar fil g e directin lighting th most of my in ly le e on hi on se w d nd to m A an t Q. Parallel to iu an n! w ed te not writ videos as a m ng what you do days to devise. explored music ent bands such and hidi matter of a few nd pe de in ith w . collaborating bles and Turin darkness The Irrepressi e th in st re as Ladyhawk, te in prompted your Brakes. What medium? Shelly Love has been interviewed by Rocio Frausto More from Rocio @ arcadialux.blogspot.com


Showreel may be viewed at www.shellylove.co.uk Represented by 2AM Films


I

NY Photography / Matthew Lyn


Previous page Coat & Hat / Paul Smith Pants / Tunji Dada T-Shirt / Model’s own Shoes / Dolce & Gabbana


Jacket / PetrouMan Hat / Paul Smith Shirt / Acne Ring & Bracelet / Model’s own


Jacket / General Idea Shirt / PetrouMan Scarf & Pants / Giorgio Armani Necklace / Model’s own


Shearling vest / Timo Weiland Leather vest / Shipley & Halmos Jeans / Rogan Boots / BESS NYC Bracelet / Model’s own


Jacket / Z Zegna Shirt / Giorgio Armani Jeans / Acne Shoes / Florsheim for Duckie Brown Scarf / Etro


Jacket / Paul Smith Vest / Dimitri Chris Cardigan / Timo Weiland Pants / PetrouMan Shoes / Florsheim for Duckie Brown


Jacket & Vest / D&G Ripped tank top / Travis Taddeo Pants, Belt & Pocket square / Paul Smith Shoes / Z Zegna Ring / Model’s own


Jacket / Z Zegna Shirt / Philip Gaboury Next page Jacket / Timo Weiland Turtleneck & Pants / Z Zegna Boots / Dolce & Gabbana


Photographer / Matthew Lyn @ matthewlyn.com Styling /Angelo Desanto @ angelodesanto.com Model / Josh Beech DNA Model Management NY


OBSCUR /

Internationally in-demand young brand OBSCUR is based on a pure, strippeddown aesthetic. Starting from a minimal yet not straightforward viewpoint, creative director Richard Söderberg attempts to tear apart traditional concepts of the garment, reinventing them as a balancing act between structure and volume. Söderberg may have used shades of black on black throughout the entire autumn/winter collection, but rich textures (including wool, cashmere, cotton and raw leather) break up the layers of onyx for a more complex take on monochrome. Based in Helsingborg, Sweden, Söderberg sees the Scandinavian influence on his aesthetic in terms of his childhood confinement to a small town, which drew him “to the wide open spaces, deafening silence and raw nature.” As a designer he translates these images into a state of delicate decomposition where edges are often left unfinished to highlight the craftsmanship behind OBSCUR’s drapery. Striking and austere, his embellishments are confined to the most subtle of sartorial details such as a long-line zip or elaborate leather folds.

EDUARDO RIVERA /

CAITLIN LESLIE STUMBLES UPON

OBSCUR’s distinctive, shadowy silhouette has earned it an international following with stockists across Europe, Asia and the US, not to mention a regular spot at Paris Fashion Week. But for all its global recognition, the label is inexplicably undervalued at home in Sweden. Despite a growing clamour from Scandinavian customers, the market hasn’t quite caught up with the highend aspirations of OBSCUR just yet. The label has a certain intimacy to it: Söderberg describes OBSCUR as “[his] personal retrospective brainchild” and his nonconformist aesthetic is evident in the play on structure and fluidity or in the removable collars and cuffs. This season, he found inspiration in the decadently dark work of Austrian artist Gunter Brüs as well as in the bleak Scandinavian countryside, dark music and a desire to refine classic silhouettes. For spring we can expect double-faced leather and more experiments with layering, but Söderberg remains consistent in his philosophy of design where “a garment’s true value can only be fully recognized when it is being worn.” www.obscur.se

Madrid-born Eduardo Rivera launched his line just two years ago as a response to what he felt was an absence of fashion-forward tailoring in modern menswear. Designing for men who are “well-travelled with a busy lifestyle”, he mixes classic shapes (shirts, blazers, knits) with drop-crotch or straight-legged trousers and patterned scarves for a signature that’s smart but not stuffy. Thoughtful details (military medals pinned to lapels or coloured stitching on a jacket) mark Eduardo Rivera’s position somewhere between directional and classic. His flirtation with colour and silhouette has earned him commercial success at home in Spain as well as a place at the hugely influential Tranoi trade show in Paris. Stocked in boutiques across Europe, his current collection reinvents traditional pieces in electric shades of purple, teal and cobalt blue. As unafraid of unconventional textures as he is a bold burst of colour, Rivera uses laidback fabrics like jersey or linen in his tailoring to offer a fresh take on blazers and suit jackets. Despite beginning his career in international finance, creativity clearly comes naturally. However, he is a traditionalist when it comes to the perfect fit, citing his attention to detail as a quality he inherited from his mother. Elisa Rivera, founder of her own designer boutique and partner in Eduardo’s first foray into fashion design (a line of ready-to-wear for women, which is still going strong), instilled in her son “a belief that, while design is a creative process, success comes from hard work.” Rivera’s elegant but youthful menswear is poised on the edge of global triumph. With growing interest from overseas buyers, Tranoi is only the beginning. On his international reception Rivera says, “Probably being Spanish doesn’t carry the same cache as being French or Italian in the world of fashion, but on the other hand I think wherever you’re from you’re judged on your designs rather than your nationality.” In that case, Rivera can certainly look forward to a warm reception from the rest of the world. www.eduardorivera.es

Words / Caitlin Leslie


CHRISTIAN WESTPHAL/

Launched in 2006, Christian Westphal’s eponymous line of Renaissanceinspired menswear has gone from strength to strength. This autumn/winter, exaggerated scoop-neck vests worn over preppy collared shirts update timeless tailoring. Paired with dramatically voluminous scarves and classic coats belted at the waist, balloon-shaped trousers reference heritage but are strikingly current. Throughout the collection classic black is shot through with rich shades of teal, navy and racing green. Born in Copenhagen, Westphal studied at both the College of Danish Design and the legendary Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, before going on to work with John Galliano at Christian Dior Couture, at the Atelier Flou of Emanuel Ungaro and as an assistant to Delphine Murat. The influence of his time in haute couture creeps into his unconventional approach to tailoring with the touch of avant-garde showing in his choice of shapes. Westphal adopts a refined aesthetic within his elaborate silhouette, stripping back unnecessary details to concentrate on texture. Velvet, fur, merino wool and leather are the perfect foil to the simplicity of his classic collared shirts and heavy winter coats. Protective layers this season reference defensive armour, but worn with some nonchalance his pieces are casually, effortlessly elegant. Designed to be layered, Westphal’s take on urbane luxury is surmised by his light mink jacket worn over hooded jersey. For spring and summer collections Westphal extends his repertoire to include lighter, brighter colour palettes, new jacket lengths and smartly tailored shorts but his signatures – architectural shapes and a curious mix of the old and new – remain. Season-specific pieces, like his woven boleros or striped ties, retain his modern sensibility. Westphal has shown his designs in Paris, Shanghai, Copenhagen, London and Tokyo, and they are now available in exclusive boutiques across Europe, Asia and the USA. Still flying somewhat under the radar, but with a growing reputation for modern luxury, Christian Westphal is a talent on the rise. www.christianwestphal.com

The charcoal millefeuile of Katerina Levina’s autumn/winter designs envelope and protect the wearer in a cashmere cocoon of sharp tailoring and deepcut lapels. Working largely in shades of slate and soot, this young Russian designer draws from her own ideas of human nature and its fragility, creating architectural layers of monochrome garments. Her background reads like a fashion week schedule: after studying in SaintPetersburg and at Central Saint-Martins she kicked off her career at Hussein Chalayan, Vivienne Westwood, Peter Jensen and Emilio de la Morena. Even though her own line is still in its inception, having only been launched in the summer of 2009, it is already available in Moscow, Saint-Petersburg and London. Levina considers herself an international rather than Russian designer, balancing the demands of an overseas market. At home, the unisex line of jersey ready-to-wear pieces is most popular, while in the UK her mainline Katerina Levina collection is preferred.

Directional but wearable, the drama of Levina’s sculptural silhouettes is heightened by an almost entire absence of colour. This season her minimal aesthetic has been taken to its most stark; with no embellishment whatsoever save a line of sombre buttons, the cut of her coats, shirts and trousers speaks for itself. As well as her prêt-à-porter lines Levina has flirted with footwear and accessories since launching her label, developing striking pieces such as worker-style boots in either oyster or mousy grey leather and skinny black belts with talon-like fasteners. On these new projects she says, “I find it very exciting to learn and develop. I am trying to make something different each season.” With this goal in mind, Katerina confirms her status as a young designer to watch. www.katerinalevina.org

KATERINA LEVINA /

Despite having ventured into womenswear, she now focuses on menswear, admitting that she finds it “much more challenging. In womenswear you, as a designer, can do whatever you want: you design any type of crazy thing and there will always be people who will admire it. Menswear is far more complicated as the edge between what can and cannot be admitted is much thinner.”


secret garden Photography / Rayan Ayash


Previous page Coat / Marlowe Dress / McQ at Milli Necklace / Stylist’s own


Skirt / Lovas Blazer / Brose Earrings / Jenny Bird


Dress / Margarita Saplala @ UPC Boutique Coat / Marlowe Bracelets / Jenny Bird


Coat / NADA Earrings / Jenny Bird


Blouse / Lanvin at Milli Skirt / David Dixon


Next page Skirt / VAWK Necklace / Speech @ UPC Boutique Necklace / Alynne Lavigne @ UPC Boutique


Photographer / Rayan Ayash Styling / Shan Sarwar / PUSH Creative Management @ pushthetalent.com Hair & Make Up / Vittorio / Plutino Group @ plutinogroup.com Prop Stylist / Matt Jackson / Page One Management @ pageonemanagement.ca Model / Jessica Lewis / Elmer Olsen Models @ elmerolsenmodels.com


by João Paulo Nunes

The Work of the Talented Mr Yahïa Ouled-Moussa

Ceci N’est Pas Une Chaise


When a manifestation of design questions the forms and shapes it generates, as well as its own creative status, one undoubtedly encounters a most wondrous creation. If said manifestation simultaneously translates into an intelligent questioning and repositioning of the history of the object it informs, then the result can be even more spectacular. It is hard not to feel attracted to the work of the designer Yahïa OuledMoussa. On initial perception, his furniture range may be interpreted as a collection of mere pieces of design in its strict sense: fixtures for which creativity is put to use to improve their function as objects used in daily life. However, the more one looks closely at them, the more one realises the difficulty in separating the perception of their inventive design development from a parallel artistic process, as the pieces cleverly question their own materials, heritage, and purpose. Born in Algiers and currently based in Paris, Yahïa Ouled-Moussa works from the Yoming Gallery, a small treasure trove in the 17eme arrondissement where he sells his own furniture, bags and clothes. The designer has confessed that he carried forward from his childhood the memory of school classroom seats and the instructions to sit down that created a social hierarchy between people as well as between users and objects. The appropriation of the space and process of sitting via a language of authority is self-evident in his most successful artefacts, where belts and military fabrics simultaneously serve as inspirations and provide the media to the objects they construe. With this in mind, pieces with names like ‘Strap Band Chair’ or ‘Tank Chair’ are reinterpretations of classic objects of desire (such as Bentwood chairs) whose heritage is deconstructed and made personal via the use of fabric that makes sense to the designer and speaks volumes to the user. If chairs are supposedly designed to provide respite and comfort, the personal metaphorical process of restraint is intelligently engineered in OuledMoussa’s furniture through the usage of unseemly materials.

Belts and fabrics, and their connotations of authority, become in themselves functionally contained by providing the opposite of what they were intended to. At the same time, by establishing this polarity of contrast in design, Ouled-Moussa also brings the dynamic imagery of roaming in the external world into static objects of internal space. The military bag fabrics and belts used outdoors are tamed in order to create pieces for the domestic realm. In other words, the medium becomes function at the service of design and art through an intelligent, creative process of constructing control of space and usage. Ouled-Moussa’s furniture also becomes the embodiment of the appropriation and questioning of design when mastering the object so as to understand its intrinsic history. This is best achieved in a piece like ‘Get the Louis’ where the tradition of luxurious furniture-making is purposefully deconstructed by using military bags as upholstery. The end result is a breath-taking piece that establishes an interesting interpretative dialogue between itself and its user while questioning the value of high design. In the end, and while sitting down to admire the world, Ouled-Moussa gets the last smile, as it is owing to his creative elaboration that the dialectic relationship between function and form enriches the object and its user. A chair that is not a chair is in fact a chair, and design is born from comfort that inspires restraint that becomes comfort.

Words / João Paulo Nunes


Josei Photography / Stefan Giftthaler


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Laura Mercier Secret Camouflage Concealer MAC Liquidlast Liner in Powerplum MAC Red Brick Eyeshadow MAC Paint Stick in Basic Red Bobbi Brown Pot Rouge for Lips and Cheeks in Raspberry


SK-II Facial Treatment Essence Armani Luminous Silk Foundation Dolce&Gabbana Luminous Cheek Colour in Provocative MAC Fluidline in Blacktrack Laura Mercier Lip Stain in Shy Pink


Photographer / Stefan Giftthaler Make Up / Aaron Henrikson @ Green Apple Hair / Domenic Di Campo @ Green Apple Model / Alena Enikeeva @ Women Milan Hair Credits / Kevin Murphy Anti-Gravity


SK-II Cellumination Essence Shiseido Creamy Compact Foundation Stila Convertible Colour in Camelia MAC Eyeshadows in Omega, Charcoal Brown, and Passionate


LIU FEI


Liu Fei's work is unmistakeable. Since making his debut on the contemporary Asian art scene he's cultivated an avant-garde signature of shaved crowns and stained lips, dark eyes and defined eyebrows.


Globally exhibited, especially across Asia, Liu Fei’s art is confronting and disarming the traditional movements within contemporary Chinese art, refusing to exist within the boundaries of political pop art, cynical realism or Gaudi art.

Born in Nanjing, Fei has been recognised with a number of solo shows and made an impact with his idiosyncratic style. The bald women he depicts are circumscribed in student uniforms from 1930’s China, but smile and laugh in every picture. They are joyous and uncomfortable, approachable but antagonistic. A graduate from the Nanjing Academy of Fine Arts, Fei uses a monochrome palette to dramatically accentuate his models’ vividly coloured lips. A comparison to Da Vinci’s Mona Lisa might seem unlikely but Fei captures the same mysterious qualities in a smile, albeit in a more discomforting form. These are not portraits of carefully poised women modelling for the artist. Fei catches them in carefree moments, mid-laugh or casually tilting their head, almost always making direct eye contact with their audience. More than just a casual nod to feminism, Liu Fei’s work explicitly concerns itself with woman’s place in contemporary China. His paintings are a provocative betrayal of traditional Asian femininity, eschewing innocence and grace in favour of something more daring.

In his Women With Guns exhibition the neatly tied white shirts were accessorised with guns casually pointed straight ahead. But throughout his career the very directness of the women Fei paints has signified their modernity, school uniforms aside. They are unafraid of eye contact; they search for it constantly. Their hair is not so much missing as it is a statement of conventional beauty’s absence. Fei rejects classic ideas and courts the modern. The disparity between his subjects’ dress and demeanour is overwhelming. Despite all their physical similarities, each woman couldn’t appear more individual. Regardless of the conformity proposed by their appearance, they are commanding, compelling and dangerous. Liu Fei’s paintings are available at Opera Gallery London. Sebastien Plantin and Jean-David Malat can be contacted at london@operagallery.com or by telephone at +44(0)207 491 2999. Images courtesy of Opera Gallery Ltd.


EXORCISM photography / You Bin


Trousers / Neil Barrett Shoes / Jil Sander


Shirt / Prada Jacket / Raf Simons


Jacket / Dsquared2 Opposite Trousers / Just Cavalli Shoes / Alexander McQueen


Shirt / Thom Browne Jacket / Thom Browne Belt / Burberry Bow tie / Stylist’s own


Sweater / Dior Homme Scarf / Dior Homme Trousers / Dior Homme Shoes / Dior Homme


Jacket / Calvin Klein Collection


Leggings / American Apparel Shoes / Lanvin


Photographer / You Bin @ youbinphotography.com Styling / Alexander Brivosky Grooming / Stella Higgins Model / Brent Chua @ Ford NYC


Photography / Jim Rakete


Paul Heilig introduces....

nina hagen She is 55. Yet eternally young. Nina Hagen. Phenomenon, punk and couture icon, spiritual globetrotter. She has published hundreds of songs but again and again Nina cuts a dash. Her eccentric performances are as legendary as her wardrobe. For some she is divine, for others she is barmy. Born in East Berlin, Nina moved to West Germany and got her inspirations in London, Paris, California and in an Indian ashram. She married 17-year-old London punk ‘Iroquis’ on the island of Ibiza, only to be separated a week later. She has sung on stage while carrying little daughter Cosma in her arms. Designers like Jean-Paul Gaultier and Pierre et Gilles fashioned her way. This year Nina Hagen published her autobiography ‘Bekenntnisse’ (‘Confessions’) and a new album, ‘Personal Jesus’. In between, the diva had time for a date with Schön!’s columnist Paul Heilig.


Q. Nina, in one of your earlier songs the line ‘God is dead’ is mentioned and in your new book ‘Confessions’ you confess to God. When and how did you find him? A. I found Jesus when I was 17 years old. It happened during a near-death experience and I was saved by His love, which is more real and bigger than we can ever imagine. You can say that I have belonged to and followed Jesus for a very long time. In the 1990s I became attracted to a guru from India, who claimed that all religions are equal and that we must follow the religion of our heart. So I went there and declared myself a Christian and was welcomed in this group as such. However, I soon found out that this guru had an evil agenda. He is a very clever liar and betrayer. He calls himself “The Yogi-Christ of India” and wants to be worshipped by his devotees as God, or as the Father. I am writing about my experiences in his ashram in my book. I distanced myself from this self-proclaimed God and then I finally got baptised. Q. You did a ‘God test’ once. How does that work? A. I was 12 years old and wanted to have proof. I was longing for truth and real faith like my auntie, who was praying for and with me. So I tested God. Q. Fans gave you the title ‘Godmother of Punk’. Is this a kind of honour for you? A. They call me ‘The Mother of Punk’ and I love it! But ‘Godmother’? That is not the title that Punks gave me. I think that was an idea of the press. Q. You created your own fashion line with the label ‘Mother of Punk’. Are you still in the business? A. It was a fun adventure for a while, but the company does not exist anymore. We are only into t-shirts now and market and sell them through my online shop.

Q. Regarding your astonishing outfits, it seems that you love corsets, tutus and those enormous bows... A. I enjoy the freedom of choice in dressing up. And, no, I do not wear corsets when I am singing. I could not sing in such a thing! I was always into ballet as a child, so I love dance outfits, tutus, the whole Pippi-Longstocking-FreedomFun-Clothing.... Q. Did you start your love for fashion during your London period? A. No, it all started when I was in East Berlin. Q. What does fashion mean to you? A. Dressing up is a beautiful way to express freedom, in the same way as rejoicing, singing and dancing! Q. You met and worked with Jean-Paul Gaultier and Pierre et Gilles in the 1980s. How did this alliance of music, fashion and muse arise? A. I was invited to a party by JeanPaul and we became friends. I also met the father of my son Otis at his studios, so I will always thank God for meeting and working with Jean-Paul Gaultier. I also put Azzedine Alaia and Paco Rabanne on that same appreciation level. I love their artistic, stunning, beautiful and fun fashion! Q. Do you still see them? A. Oh yeah! I love them and very much enjoy being with them each time we meet. Q. What is your favourite piece of clothing? And who are your favourite designers? A. I like my Prada skirt a lot. That and my tops, which were presents from some of my fans. I also love Vivienne Westwood and all the designers that I mentioned earlier. Q. Buttons with political statements seem to be typical Nina accessories. Which is your favourite button slogan? A. ‘Be the change you want to see in the world’ by Mahatma Gandhi.

Q. For many people, you are the ultimate style icon. Is this something that pleases you? A. No. But to love and being loved pleases me. Not because of outside stunts, but because of love itself... Q. What is your inspiration? A. My beloved Jesus!

biggest

Q. ‘Surprise’ seems to be a kind of Nina trademark. An example of that is your invention of a yoga programme for vocal chords. How does that work? A. It just entails singing a lot. You should start during childhood and keep on singing every day; playing guitar and singing, singing, singing. The voice wants to be used. It’s good training... Q. Is there anything else that you want to invent in the future? A. No new inventions are necessary. What we need is to appreciate what we have: World peace and justice, fair trade and respectful coexistence, and the abolishment of all nukes worldwide. Q. Your demonstrations of social kindness are admirable. You give your money, voice and love for Brazilian street children, a hospice in Germany, the protection of animals, children’s hospitals in India and Chernobyl... A. I support far too many charities than would fit in your article... Jesus told me in the Holy Bible not to brag about my charities! Q. So, is there a lack of commitment in this world? A. Yes there is. And we all know it. Q. You have travelled literally and figuratively everywhere: The Bohéme and the Nina Hagen Band in Germany, punk in the UK, fashion in Paris, the ashram in India, fast life in Los Angeles, guest performances in Berlin and all over the world. Where do you feel at home? A. I am at home in the homeland of the soul. Jesus is my home and so is this beautiful planet, which I love and cherish and help to protect and sustain!

Q. Is it true that you live in celibacy? A. God blessed me with two wonderful children. Now that they are grown, I am on the road again singing and in the studio recording. I have been betrayed by Thomas, my first big love and he died very young. I tried to find true love many times since but it gets embarrassing and painful to always end up with a broken heart. Jesus has healed me completely from missing anything in my life. Everything that is good, God gives to me, and my celibacy is a great gift! I do not miss anything or anybody! I am complete just the way I am. Q. So, no more vices in Nina’s life? A. But what are vices? Q. If you were to be queen of the world for one day, what would you immediately change? A. I think that I will always be a queen because my Jesus is the King of Kings. Q. What is the biggest misconception about you? A. I have no clue. What is it? You tell me! Q. If you look back on your life, how would you define it? A. Love never fails! Q. Let’s talk about Schön! (the German word for ‘beautiful’). What does “schön” mean to you? A. Schön means life, creation, nature, children, people with love in their hearts and souls, animals, love, love, love! Das ist alles sehr schöööööööööön!!!

Nina Hagen has been interviewed by Paul Heilig More from Paul @ paulheilig.com


Photography / Jim Rakete @ eyed.de


obscur i t ĂŠ

photography / The LaRoache Brothers


Ring / Delphine-Charlotte Parmentier Top with fur detail / Maria Francesca Pepe Black hooded dress / Varun Sardana Shoes / Finsk


Shoes / Finsk Top / Jean-Pierre Braganza Dress / Miharayasuhiro Bracelet / House of Flora


Jumpsuit / Simon Ekrelius Jewelled arm cuffs / Qasimi Cone heeled shoes / Iris Van Herpen for United Nude Veil / Piers Atkinson Gold necklace / Maria Francesca Pepe


Tights / Mi Harayasuhiro Dress / Hannah Marshall Gloves / Miharayasuhiro Thigh high boots / Terry De Havilland Black necklace / Maria Francesca Pepe


Dress / Maria Francesca Pepe Ring / Delphine-Charlotte Parmentier Necklace / Delphine-Charlotte Parmentier


Headpiece / Piers Atkinson Thigh high boots / Terry De Havilland Black leggings / Benja Bllack Noir


Photography / The LaRoache Brothers @ laroachebrothers.com Styling / Kalee Hewlett Hair / Hamilton at SLR using Bumble and Bumble @ slreps.com Assisted by Bunny Make Up / Kavita Kaul using MAC www.kavitakaul.com


Dustin Hoffman by Dawn Mellor


DAWN MELLOR Call it kitsch, call it repugnant, but at the very least call Dawn Mellor a genius.


Shane Briant by Dawn Mellor


Isabelle Huppert by Dawn Mellor


At first glance Mellor’s colourful, ambiguous paintings are not the type you’d want hanging proudly above your bed. The perfectly sculptured, yet gruesomely-gored faces of the rich and famous are, quite frankly, terrifying. Originally from Manchester, she studied at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in London before graduating from the Royal College of Art in 1996. For the past decade Mellor has been presenting (or rather misrepresenting) portraits of celebrities – be it film stars, world leaders or singers - and she has managed to change the features of these

In her 2007 exhibition, Vile Affections,

However, even though most of Mellor’s

Mellor not only painted popular singers

portraits portray gruesome, diseased and

such as Michael Jackson and Britney

provocative themes, some are merely there

Spears, she moved on to depicting

for fun. One particular piece in her Vile

political figures such as Barack Obama

Affections collection is a perfect example

and Margaret Thatcher, as well as fashion

of this, as Tony Blair proudly faces the

mogul Anna Wintour. Mellor clearly takes no prisoners, managing to hit each and every area of popular culture, leaving no room to escape her intimidating portraits. This type of performance art can clearly be noted in her images of ‘Dorothy’, the fictional character from The Wizard of Oz, using Judy Garland as the protagonist who

audience with his trademark grin, ready as ever for a political debate…except for the bright purple “Barney” key ring piercing the end of his nose and dangling past his chin. It’s the harmless pieces like this that really make Dawn Mellor stand out from the crowd, because not only is she able to make fun of other people, she is also capable to

well-known individuals into a story of

ironically pushes along carts filled with

horror and gore. Much of her work focuses

yellow bricks, and is shown mutilated by

on aggressive or sexual imagery, making

a sign bearing the words ‘There’s no place

Mellor’s portraits can be seen as a little

her portraits only suitable for the strong-

like home’. In these cases, her portraits

convoluted, freakish and weird; yet her use

stomached.

not only show the death of a character or

of spoof, wit, surrealism and reality make

public figure, but also a death of what they

her one of the pioneering artists of the

represent: idealism. Mellor goes against the

decade.

Despite this, I find myself inwardly praising the artist rather than feeling utterly disturbed by the Tarantino-esque spouts of blood erupting from Gwyneth Paltrow’s shoulder and the blurred reflection of a bald

traditional Hollywood ending of happilyever-after and instead shows a satirical conclusion to the character’s world.

laughing at herself through her artwork.

Her combination of brutal, sadistic (yet imaginative and compelling) caricatures can be seen as empathy towards her subjects, as if a pathway into their secret

Natalie Portman. The images appear to

I wouldn’t go as far as to say that Mellor

carry a protruding sense of black-humour

glorifies death – that can be left to design

apprehensions and frets.

and satire that addresses today’s obsession

houses such as Alexander McQueen, whose

with celebrity culture.

famous scull-print scarves fly off the shelves

Mellor’s next solo exhibition will be held at

Mellor, now based in London, puts herself in the frame of mind of a fixated fan whose fascination has turned into delusional stalking. She first paints the face in its entirety, before performing a decaying technique to make the subject appear deconstructed, grotesque and inhuman.

without so much as a smirk of horror – she simply uses it as a way of showing how

the Team Gallery in New York, debuting in Spring 2011. Shall we expect more horror stories? Or perhaps a series of humorous

our celebrity-obsessed culture is literally

celebrity encounters? For all we know, she

rotting along with its stars.

could be mummifying her victims at this

In an interview with The Guardian last year,

very second.

Mellor said ‘I think celebrity concentration

When it’s Dawn Mellor we’re talking about,

camp is the next low we can realistically

anything can happen.

expect, televised of course’. This cynical statement accurately shows the bitterness that Mellor has for reality television shows and gossip bloggers such as Perez Hilton.

Artwork / Dawn Mellor Words / Sarah Fox


Mia Farrow by Dawn Mellor


Here at Schön! we like to pick the best talents from every corner of the world, be it photographers, illustrators, architects or designers: only the crème de la crème will suffice. Now it feels like it’s time to put some more interest across the continents and discover the hubs of talent so that all can see the true beauty of our world’s hidden treasure troves. Be it the glistening mountains of Switzerland or the shimmering beaches of Bali, designhotels.com aim to cater for the whims of each and every guest. With over 140 hotels located in over 100 destinations in 42 countries within Europe, Asia, Africa, America and the Middle East; there is definitely something for everybody. Designhotels.com cherry-pick the most distinctive, stylish and sensational boutique hotels, taking into account architecture, design, technology and local influences. We have selected an array of what we believe to be a fair example of what designhotels.com have to offer.

design’ed’ hotels found by Sarah Fox


asia

City chic or tropical tranquility – Asia has the works. If it’s a cultural abundance you’re looking for, then let the waters of the Indian Ocean wash away your worries as you head off to explore The Great Wall of China, shop till you drop on Orchard Road in Singapore, or achieve ultimate relaxation and melt into the sands of Bali. If opulence is your main requirement, The Waterhouse in Shanghai provides a concrete definition of the term. Built in the 1930s and recently modernised by Neri & Hu Design and Research Office, the building has maintained its outward appearance and original features whilst hiding an extravagant interior of 19 charming guest rooms, restaurant, events room and rooftop bar with incredible views of the Pudong skyline. Should you prefer less shopping and more sunbathing, then Bali offers the perfect salvation from reality; and no hotel so much as The Alila Villas Uluwatu in Bukit. The parade of villas, terraces, pools and gardens sat on the brink of the Indian Ocean is nothing short of breath-taking. If guests were ever tempted to leave their sanctuaries of bliss, by means of a private, one-bedroom, two-bedroom or cliff-side villa, then there is also an on-site spa, restaurant, fifty-meter pool, fitness centre, library, cigar bar, event centre, wedding pavilion, garden, concierge day-planning services and an even larger list of activities from scuba diving to bike riding through Balinese rice fields – absolute excellence.

The Alila Villas Uluwatu in Bukit

For bookings, visit www.designhotels.com / Images courtesy of DesignHotels™

The Waterhouse in Shanghai

africa & the middle east

Africa and the Middle-East have long been associated with mystic kingdoms and bustling souks, and designhotels.com prove that you can live like the royalty you read about whilst being moments away from the hectic market stalls and rustic scenery. At The Mamilla Hotel in Jerusalem, you can experience a panoramic view over the Old City walls, just a stone’s throw away from the contemporary shopping strip and majestic variety of restaurants. Designed by world-renowned architect Moshe Safdie, the hotel is said to mirror the modern essence felt throughout this fresh, vibrant city. Alternatively, head to the heart of Morocco and experience the Souk Medina, with traditional mezes and ancient mosques - and why not stay somewhere as invigorating as your surroundings? Hotel La Renaissance in Marrakech lives up to its name, positively oozing the sophistication, elegance and extravagance that one would expect from the former elitist hotel, recently restored to beyond its original glory. It boats 35 rooms, 10 suites, 2 cocktail lounges and a couple of high-class restaurants. As the Hotel La Renaissance is the tallest building in Marrakech, guests also get the best view of the entire city.

Above:The Mamilla Hotel in Jerusalem Left: Hotel La Renaissance in Marrakech


europe

Bustling with resorts in the snowy Alps of Austria and hosting stunning views from the Amalfi Coast, Europe is always a popular holiday destination.

Designhotels.com have uncovered a precious gem on the Spanish island of Mallorca: Puro Hotel. This is not your typical Spanish villa or spa: Puro is an oasis of calm and serenity. A restored eighteenth century palace, the combination of grandeur and urban-cool makes it like nothing else in the region. With 50 rooms and suites consisting of spa-like bathrooms, an Asian restaurant and roof-top terrace, this resort captures the essence of traditional Spanish charm with a contemporary twist. From the sweltering sun to the acute Alps – Copperhill Mountain Lodge in Jämtland province, Sweden, is practically post-card perfection. With welcoming views that could easily adorn Christmas greetings cards, surely this is the true meaning of ‘Winter Wonderland’? This ski-resort town is Sweden’s most popular due to its warm, rustic charm and state-of-the-art facilities. Each of the 112 rooms come complete with LCD TV, heated flooring, kitchenette with dishwasher, microwave and fridge, and, of course, stunning views of the snowcapped mountains and frosted forest. The hotel even has a Fireside Lounge, gourmet restaurant, inn, Spa and a sprinkling of local charm, making it the perfect winter get-away.

Copperhill Mountain Lodge in Sweden

The Puro Hotel in Mallorca

the americas

America, for some, may consist of California dreaming and New York’s city lights, but designhotels.com have much more to offer than that. Our picks stem from Mexico, as the continent has everything for suave urban living or a lazy beach retreat. Be Tulum falls into the latter. Suspended on the edge of the Mayan Caribbean, this secluded spot, consisting of only 20 rooms, is nonchalant ambiance. The complex is designed with local limestone, Brazilian wood and Bisazza mosaic tiles, giving it a minimalist feel throughout. Some suites have private pools and terraces whilst others are equipped with Jacuzzis and balconies. Why not go to the extreme and book one of the private penthouses, which come with their own terrace pool and magnificent views of Sian Ka’an – ‘the birthplace of the sky’. Alternatively, if it’s contemporary-cool you’re looking for, then your search can end with Habita in Monterrey. Surrounded by mountains, desserts and canyons, the hotel has 28 rooms, 10 suites and 1 penthouse, 2 rooftop pools, a fitness centre, steam room, sauna and a rooftop bar with a 360-degree view over Sierra Madre. With furniture designed by Rick Owens, the interior by Joseph Dirand, and shops on your doorstep, why look anywhere else?

Above:Habita in Monterrey Left: Tulum in Mexico For bookings, visit www.designhotels.com / Images courtesy of DesignHotels™


I P H O N E C O M I N G S O O N be the ďŹ rst to know click here


marble

Photography / Fulvio Maiani


Previous page Jacket / Amen Top / Roberto Cavalli Boots / Sergio Rossi Briefs / Calvin Klein Ring / Marina Fosati Jacket / Class Roberto Cavalli Body / Miss Naory Gloves / Frankie Morello Shoes / Giuseppe Zanotti


Top / Frankie Morello Briefs / Calvin Klein Necklaces / Marina Fossati Stockings / La Perla Gloves / Cornelia James


Knickerbockers / Brioni Gloves / Brioni Bangles / Brioni Shoes / Frankie Morello Belt / Giuseppe Zanotti Glasses / Dior Homme


Hat / Stylist’s own Top / La Perla Suspender belt / La Perla Briefs / La Perla Stockings / La Perla Gloves / Cornelia James Shoes / Sergio Rossi


Bra / Calvin Klein Suspender belt / Roberto Cavalli Stockings / La Perla Gloves / 3.1 Phillip Lim available at www.net-a-porter.com Bag / Giuseppe Zanotti Shoes / Sergio Rossi Earrings / Peter Lang Australia Glasses / Dior Homme Next page Top / Dye4Wingham Briefs / La Perla Gloves / J Maskrey Boots / Giuseppe Zanotti


Photographer / Fulvio Maiani @ fulviomaiani.com Concept / Alessandro Castellucci for JamStudio Fashion Editor / Michael Dye Hair & Make Up / Werner Amort @ Face2Face Fashion Assistants / Huma Humayun, Amandine Benomar & Camilla Colombo Production & Location Management / JamStudio Model / Sui He @ Fashion Photographer Assistant / Carlos Zangheri Digital Retouching / JamStudio


T h e

D u a l i s m

P h o t o g r a p h y Controversy has always been a way of boosting sales. Throw in a Facebook censorship scandal and some erotic photography and you’re on to a winner. This has certainly worked for The Dualism Photography Art Book, which has courted extreme reactions to its sexually charged images. Created by an anonymous artist, the images in The Dualism are not for the faint hearted: this is definitely not a sedate coffee table book you are going to find in the suburbs. The content is unrepentantly graphic, with provocative images of abortion, masturbation and mutilation that challenge us to confront our innermost desires and self knowledge. Yearning, denial and the frailty of the human condition form the core of the work. “My inspiration is the fact that nothing seems to be,” says the artist. “It is all about the struggle with the self and the duality between mind and matter and mind and body. I am looking at moral dualities and dilemmas.” Whether intentionally or not, one of the dilemmas that has arisen from the book has concerned the validity and social function of art. Published earlier this year, all was going well on a Facebook page that had gained over 35,000 fans until the social networking site decided to remove images that were featured in the book. Persistent requests for an explanation by the artist have gone ignored, leading to the inevitable accusations of censorship of art.

A r t

B o o k

This is a path well worn by the likes of Robert Mapplethorpe and Joel Peter Witkin, whose sexually transgressive work caused varying degrees of public outrage. If the Facebook debacle has increased the interest in the work, it has also prompted us to consider the restrictions of art, and perhaps more importantly, at what stage censorship becomes repression and what qualifies a body to responsibly execute it. “Facebook’s policy prohibits nudity,” explains the artist, “however, this is vague as they do not set standards for what is considered nudity. The other issue is that Facebook is global. This has implications. For example, in some cultures a woman showing an ankle is considered nudity, while in France something might be considered nudity only if there is an erection. Globalisation doesn’t mean crossing cultural borders and Facebook has to adjust their policy.”

The Dualism Vol. I can be ordered at: www.thedualism.com

One of the purposes of art is to instigate debate and thereby encourage freedom of expression. Facebook’s failure to even enter into a dialogue about their actions effectively inhibits the democratic function of art. They have the power to provoke a lively debate surrounding the legitimate boundaries of nudity, pornography and obscenity, but have instead chosen to shut down communication. With social networking becoming one of the most popular modes of interaction today, many would argue that this is very dangerous © Images / The Dualism Photography Ltd Words and Interview / Alex Hopkins


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TONY WARD photography / Dimitris theocharis


Previous page Suit / Tom Ford Vintage shirt / Wrangler from Rokit Bolo tie made from pin / Purdey Sleeveless shirt / JW Anderson


Top / JW Anderson Trousers / JW Anderson Sheepskin & leather jacket / Burberry Belt / Purdey


Sheepskin & leather jacket / Burberry Cowboy hat worn throughout / National Theatre


Velvet 3 piece suit / D&G Shirt / Polo Ralph Lauren Fur scarf / Hockley


Jacket / Polo Ralph Lauren Shirt / Ioannis Dimitrousis Bolo tie / Purdey


Suit / Tom Ford Vintage shirt / Wrangler from Rokit Bolo tie made from pin / Purdey


Faux-fur coat on sofa / Vivienne Westwood Underwear / National Theatre Jewellery / Model's own


Denim all-in-one / Vivienne Westwood Shirt / Tommy Hilfiger Socks / Purdey Boots / Redwing


Shirt / Diesel Vintage varsity jacket from Rokit


Shirt / Diesel Varsity jacket / Wrangler


Fur all-in-one / MR+MR


Shirt / McQ Underwear / National Theatre Jacket / Polo Ralph Lauren Scarf from Mint Vintage Boots / Redwing Socks / Purdey


Fur all-in-one / MR+MR Jewellery / Model's own


Checked trousers / Paul Smith Shirt / Wrangler


Model / Tony Ward @ Premier Model Management  Photography / Dimitris Theocharis @ dimitristheocharis.com Fashion Styling / Anders Sølvsten Thomsen  Make Up / Nora Nona Hair / Kavita Kaul Photography Assistant / Sohrab Vahdat Fashion Assistant / Shaunie Brett Studio Assistant / Manu Valcarce Studio Assistant / Marsy Hild Thorsdottir Special Thanks To Laurence @ 33 Portland Place Special Thanks To Ioannis Dimitrousis


TONY WARD interviewed... As an international supermodel Tony Ward rocketed to success, working with A-list photographers and designers since he began modelling almost thirty years ago. Our twenty-four page editorial is testament to his talent: still in demand all over the world, he just keeps getting better. But now, in an exclusive interview with Schön! Magazine, we’ve discovered the photographer, painter, writer and father behind the face.

What has been your most strenuous artistic venture? Honestly...actually sitting down to paint these days has proven to be most difficult, I haven’t had a second to breathe lately, too busy modelling my stupid face off. Painting and creating in whatever medium I choose is really such a pleasure, I don’t find it strenuous at all! I love the challenge of trying new, foreign mediums...I want to make 50 foot sculptures of myself in erotic poses ejaculating fluorescent Jell-O! Check it!!

With art being a very spontaneous and instinctual process, under what conditions do you find you do your best work? Under the pressure of a ridiculous deadline! Heart attack mode is my best temperature!

You’re known for being a model, actor, writer, and artist. Are there any other creative avenues you haven’t explored that you would perhaps like to? Directing one epic film...if I made one perfectly magical masterpiece I would be happy!

Do you ever get a creative mental block? What do you do to tackle this? I am not afraid of a block...that is impossible for me, I have way too many crazy ass ideas stored up in my head, to BURSTING! Believe me! It’s just about giving myself time to do them! I try to be Action Man always!


Would you ever consider giving lectures to other artists about your experiences? What advice would you give other budding artists? Yes! I love the idea of teaching, sharing and most of all learning during the process of artistic discourse! When it comes to creativity I’m super inspired when minds come together...I don’t have all the best ideas packed away in the vault of my mind…I believe the best come from inspiration, from others’ crazy shit in their heads! I love to share thoughts!

Does your status as a celebrity affect your credibility as an artist? How hard has it been to get your artistic work taken seriously? First, I am NO celebrity!! And I could give a fvck less what people think of my art... the pleasure is in the doing, after that I am perplexed as to what to even do with it! It just seems to pile up against walls in our studio... hehaw! If someone likes the art that’s cool I guess... much better if they really like it so much they wanna hang it on their wall and live with it... somehow I don’t feel I even own it after I do it (paintings that is). It’s a regurgitation process of my view of the world... my world I live in... is that serious celebrity bullshit or what?!

What other hobbies do you enjoy when you’re not working or creating? What did you do on your last quiet night in? Take a bath with my girl and kisses on the tummy...my new conceived baby’s home! And a movie marathon...I’m obsessed with film these days...research for a new film I’m working on...

How would you like to be remembered? Is there a favourite piece of your work that defines Tony Ward? No…yes…maybe. Everything I’ve ever had the pleasure to take part in as a creator. Uhm…It’s a 10 by 4 ft painting of a splayed out and broken body with both sexual body parts, kind of an all-being with its head exploding. You can see a bad image of it on my website (tony-ward.com) in the artist section... the perfect self portrait! Also read the writing on the same artist page...I love writing and I will do more! Peace out to all you Monkey Heads!!! Mr.Fvckheadward

He might not consider himself a celebrity, but as far as Schön! is concerned, Tony Ward is a star. Whether in front of the camera or brandishing a paintbrush, he’s a force not to be ignored.


Having worked on several TV networks before turning to fashion photography, experimental photographer Celebi brings a cinematic eye to his

Christopher Dodson London based designer, Christopher Dodson graduated in

Fulvio Maiani A frequent contributor to Schön!

Jannis Tsipoulanis Veteran contributor to Schön! Magazine, Paris-based conceptual photographer Jannis

João Paulo Nunes

Josh Beech Model and musician Josh Beech was first spotted at a festival three years ago, and shot straight to the top when

Louise Goodwin recently graduated from Bath School of Art and Design with a degree in graphic communication and has been interning since. She

aims to continue interning and working in the fashion editorial business and hopes the experiences gained from working on this issue of Schön! will help her land her dream career.

Louise Goodwin

worked with Mario Testino, Corrine Day, Kate Moss and Adriana Lima, and had the results published in Vogue Homme, GQ, ID and Dazed and Confused. We’re thrilled to add Schön! Magazine to that list.

the dark side for this issue of Schön! in their ‘Obscurité’ editorial. Laurence Edney and Wolfgang Mustain might not be real siblings, but their creative collaboration is completely in sync. Between them they’ve

Jeremy Geddes The Australian photorealistic artist uses his background in video-game design to create awe-inspiring images of desolate backdrops and solitary figures. His latest work is currently on exhibition in Hong Kong. The LaRoache Brothers Vivacious and flamboyant, the LaRoache Brothers have created an iconic signature aesthetic, which they’ve taken to

Burberry booked him for his first job. Now he models for high street giants ASOS and H&M as well as A-list designers, and recently left London to pursue modelling jobs from his new base in New York.

politics of life, style, fashion, art, and everything that moves you.”

In this issue he talks to innovative furniture designer Yahéa Ouled-Moussa about his designs. Currently based in London, and a Fellow of the Royal Society of Arts since 2008, Nunes writes about “the

Our newly appointed Editor-at-Large is also behind the wildly successful World Man About Town lifestyle blog (worldmanabouttown.wordpress.com), which got over 20,000 hits in its first 7 months.

has graced the pages of Numero and Vogue Japan, and he has worked with Naomi Campbell, Coco Rocha, Eva Herzigova and Alessandra Ambrosio to name a few.

Tsipoulanis was behind the camera for two of our editorials this issue, including an exclusive look at next year’s spring/summer menswear collections from Lanvin and Alexander McQueen. His work

images for major ad campaigns and sports brands, including D&G beachwear.

Magazine, Maiani’s work has also been featured in Grazia, Vogue, Elle, WOUND and GQ. A graduate in Photography from The European Institute of Design Milano, he also shoots sport and travel

Standard and the Independent. This issue sees his third Schön! cover; his photographs were also on the front of our fourth and fifth issue.

the man behind our full-length Tony Ward editorial, photographer Dimitrius Theocharis is constantly pushing boundaries with his work. His images have been published in the pages of Vogue, the Evening

are other areas in which he is keen to explore.

Dawn Mellor Controversial artist Dawn Mellor shares her grotesque, yet fascinating, artwork with us in this issue. De-constructing her portraits of celebrities and world leaders until they resemble the victims of a horror story, Mellor works with a unique concept which is both disturbing and intriguing. Dimitris Theocharis As

Graphic Art and Design from Leeds Metropolitan University. He is passionate about printed formats and concept led design with a penchant for international styles. Book binding and information graphics

Her passions lie mainly in typography and print, but she is also keen on digital and interactive design.

College for the Arts with First Class Honours in Graphic Design (Design for Publishing) in July 2010. Since then, she has been interning as a designer, with particular focus on editorial and book design.

Alex Hopkins Alex is a MA English graduate from the University of Sussex, and writes freelance for various publications, as well as creating his own short stories. He is also planning to write a novel in his spare time. Caitlin Leslie A 21 year old graduate from Leeds University with journalism aspirations, she currently freelances for various fashion publications in London as well as interning at Schön! Magazine. Caitlin also writes her own sartorial blog and takes on styling projects in her spare time. Carly Denham Carly graduated from Norwich University

images. Currently splitting his time between Miami, London and Istanbul, he is also the founder of both the South Florida Independent Film Group and the Collaborate! Photography Project.

Akif Hakan Celebi

Contributors


Jewellery

designer

Maria

Mastori

and

fashion

designer,

blogger,

illustrator,

photographer

and

journalist

Filep

Motwary

have

Stefan Giftthaler The Stefan Milev One of our new contributors, Stefan Milev is the talented

Thanassis Krikis After beginning his career as a fashion designer in New York, Thanassis Krikis returned to Greece to Tony Ward California-born Tony Ward is a model, actor, fashion designer, painter and

Zohra Bakhsh Born in

Afghanistan and raised in Dubai, Zohra Bakhsh studied Illustration Design at the University of Hertfordshire. She began her career at Schön! Magazine as a graphic designer, but is now Assistant Editor.

of Communication in 2009 with a BA Hons in Graphic Design for Advertising, he is currently working as an editorial and web designer for Schön! Magazine.

designer born in Shanghai and has studied in London for over three years. He has always had a passion for advertising, design and learning new things. Having just graduated from the London College

1992 to present. He currently lives in L.A. with his wife and three children.

You Bin Our chilling, startlingly original ‘Exorcism’ editorial was created for Schön! courtesy of You Bin Photography. You Bin’s edgy, ambiguous aesthetic has won over a growing legion of admirers and looks set to secure success. Yvonne Renard Our regular columnist returns this month to ask “Can you say ‘Dior,’ baby?”. Paris-based Renard also flaunts her sartorial wit on a more frequent basis on her accompanying blog, ‘Opinionated Weekly.’ Zhengye Pang Zhengye Pang is a graphic

photographer. He has modelled for the likes of Karl Lagerfeld, Roberto Cavalli, Chanel, Dolce & Gabbana and many more high-end brands. He has also appeared in many music videos and movies from

created the striking images of Mastori*Motwary’s wares which accompany their interview in this issue.

work as a fashion editor for several European magazines and since 2005 has moved into photography. A graduate of both Parsons School of Design in New York and Central St Martins in London, he

and directional, his aesthetic has a touch of theatricality to it.

photographer who created this issue’s eerie lingerie editorial. Splitting his time between New York and Germany his work has been featured in prestigious magazines from around the world. Dark, edgy

his credentials are Italian Vanity Fair, Glamour, German and Greek Elle, and Vogue Italia, Hellas, Gioielle and Pelle.

photographer behind our exotic geisha-inspired beauty story, Giftthaler is a celebrated fashion and beauty photographer, with his work appearing in many of Europe’s most influential magazines. Among

lifestyle related film, photography, audio and text production for journalistic, artistic and commercial purposes as tools to create her Kingdom of Heaven on earth.

from Germany, studying MA Fashion Media Production at University of the Arts, London College of Fashion. With her background in painting, dancing and storytelling she now uses art, fashion and

Sara Castillo Romero When she’s not co-ordinating high-profile events for Schön! Sara Castillo Romero is Business Manager at Guerilla Galleries, an art gallery movement which aims to revolutionise the way young artists exhibit and sell their work in London. Sarah Fox Sarah has interned for various online and print publications, both in London and her home town of Leeds, after deciding to take a year out of University to explore fashion journalism. She also works as a freelance writer and blogger. Saskia Reis Saskia is a London based journalism graduate

returning contributor to Schön! and freelancer for various fashion publications including Fashion Victims, Blink and UCE. She also writes her own fashion, art and music blog, ‘On Her Majesty’s Request.’

congregate. Today, his search for new flair continues as he strives to unite all nations in the name of Fashion.

Rayan Ayash Our autumnal fashion story ‘Secret Garden’ was created by the gifted photographer Rayan Ayash, a new contributor to Schön! who brings his signature play on light and ethereal quality to the magazine. Rocio Frausto Chicago-based Rocio Frausto is a

journalists and illustrators can connect with each other across the globe. Raoul, originally from Germany, moved to London to explore his dream of creating a hub for talented artists all over the world to

Pierre Dal Corso Paris-based photographer Pierre Dal Corso is known for his bold, graphic approach to editorials, and he doesn’t disappoint with the striking, dark ‘Carbon’ story in this issue. Raoul Keil Raoul is the Editor-in-Chief of Schön! and Creative Director of Nineteen74.com – the world’s first creative networking-site, where pioneering designers, photographers,

writer Paul Heilig is a returning contributor to Schön! Magazine. He writes for magazines about fashion, culture and social issues, and especially adores interviews with people from very different genres.

Matthew Lyn Fashion photographer Matthew Lyn is a talent on the rise. In this issue of Schön! he has captured a gritty fashion story, set against the dramatic backdrop of New York City. Opera Gallery London Situated on New Bond Street, the Opera Gallery London’s permanent collections include art from Picasso, Chagall, Modigliani and Botero as well as fresh creative talent. Their staff are available to advise clients, whether experienced collectors or potential patrons. 134 New Bond Street, Mayfair, London. W1S 2TF. Paul Heilig Based in Hamburg,

been collaborating on their fashion line since 2005. Their collection has been shown at Hellenic Fashion Week and through several of their own fashion film projects.

Mastori*Motwary


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3.1 Phillip Lim www.31philliplim.com Acne www.acnestudios.com Adam Kimmel www.adamkimmel.com Aganovich www.aganovich.com Alexander McQueen www.alexandermcqueen.com Alexis Mabille www.alexismabille.com Amen American Apparel americanapparel.net APC www.apc.fr Armani www.armani.com Barbara Bui www.barbarabui.com Barbara Gongini www.barbaraigongini.dk BESS NYC www.bess-nyc.com Blush www.blushlingerie.co.uk Bobbi Brown www.bobbibrowncosmetics.com Brioni www.brioni.com Brose http://www.marikabrose.com Burberry www.burberry.com Calvin Klein www.calvinklein.com Chanel www.chanel.com Chantal Thomass www.chantalthomass.fr Christian Louboutin www.christianlouboutin.com Christian Westphal www.christianwestphal.com Class Roberto Cavalli www.robertocavalli.com Cornelia James www.corneliajames.com COS www.cosstores.com D&G www.dolcegabbana.com David Aubrey www.davidaubrey.com David Dixon www.daviddixon.ca Delphine-Charlotte Parmentier delphinecharlotteparmentier.com/ Diesel www.diesel.com  Dimitri Chris www.dimitrichris.com Dior Homme www.diorhomme.com DKNY www.dkny.com Dolce & Gabbana www.dolcegabbana.com Dries Van Noten www.driesvannoten.be Dsquared2 www.dsquared2.com Duffy Dunhill www.dunhill.com Eduardo Rivera www.eduardorivera.es Etro www.etro.com Eva Minge www.evaminge.pl/ Falke www.falke.de Filep Motwary www.filepmotwary.com Finsk www.finsk.com/ Florsheim for Duckie Brown www.florsheimbyduckiebrown.com Frankie Morello www.frankiemorello.it Gaspard Yurkievich www.gaspardyurkievich.com Giorgio Armani www.armani.com Giuseppe Zanotti www.giuseppezanottidesign.com Gustavo Lins www.gustavolins.com Hannah Marshall www.hannahmarshall.com Hermès www.hermes.com Hervé Van der Straeten www.vanderstraeten.fr Hockley www.hockleylondon.com House of Flora www.houseofflora.net/ Ioannis Dimitrousis www.ioannisdimitrousis.com Iris Van Herpen for United Nude www.unitednude.com Issey Miyake www.isseymiyake.com J Maskrey www.jmaskrey.com

brand listing


J.W. Anderson www.j-w-anderson.com Jasmine Alexander www.jasminealexander.com Jean-Paul Gaultier Monsieur www.jeanpaulgaultier.com Jean-Pierre Braganza www.jeanpierrebraganza.com/ Jenny Bird jennybird.myshopify.com Jil Sander www.jilsander.com Jitrois www.jitrois.com Julius www.julius-garden.jp/ Junko Shimada www.junkoshimada.com Just Cavalli www.robertocavalli.com Katerina Levina katerinalevina.org Kenzo www.kenzo.com Kriss Van Assche www.krisvanassche.com La Bagagerie www.labagagerie.com La Perla www.laperla.com Lanvin www.lanvin.com Lanvin at Milli www.milli.ca/ Laura Mercier www.lauramercier.com Levis eu.levi.com Louis Vuitton www.louisvuitton.com Lovas www.lovasfashion.com MAC www.maccosmetics.com Manuel Bolano Margarita Saplula at UPC Boutique www.upcboutique.com Maria Francesca Pepe www.mfpepe.com/ Maria Mastori www.iqons.com Marina Fosati Marlowe www.marlowe.com McQ www.m-c-q.com McQ at Milli www.milli.ca/ Miharayasuhiro www.miharayasuhiro.jp Mint Vintage www.mintvintage.co.uk Miss Naory MR+MR Murmure by Spirit www.artnuptia-murmure-by-spirit.com NADA http:www.nadadesigns.com National Theatre www.nationaltheatre.org.uk Neil Barrett www.neilbarrett.com Oasimi Obscur www.obscur.se Olga Kosika Paul Smith www.paulsmith.co.uk Peter Lang Australia www.barberinifashion.com Petrou Man www.petrouman.com Philip Gaboury Phylea Piers Atkinson www.piersatkinson.com Polo Ralph Lauren www.ralphlauren.com Prada www.prada.com Pringle of Scotland www.pringlescotland.com Purdey www.purdey.com Qasimi www.qasimi.com Raf Simons www.rafsimons.com Ralph Lauren www.ralphlauren.com Redwing www.redwingshoes.com Roberto Cavalli www.robertocavalli.com Rogan www.rogannyc.com Rokit www.rokit.co.uk Romain Kremer romainkremer.free.fr Sergio Rossi www.sergiorossi.com Shipley & Halmos www.shipley-halmos.com Simon Ekrelius www.simonekrelius.com/ SK-II www.sk-ii.com Songzio www.songzio.com Terry De Havilland www.terrydehavilland.com Thom Browne www.thombrowne.com Timo Weiland www.timoweiland.com Tom Ford www.tomford.com Tommy Hilfiger global.tommy.com Travis Taddeo www.travistaddeo.com Tunji Dada www.tunjidada.com Varun Sardana www.varunsardana.com/ Viktor & Rolf www.viktor-rolf.com Vivienne Westwood www.viviennewestwood.co.uk Wolford www.wolfordshop.co.uk  Wooyoungmi www.wooyoungmi.com Wrangler www.wrangler.com Z Zenga www.zzegna.com


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