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Pure, minimal, fresh and beautiful this is Schön! Magazine. Dynamic high-quality work from talented contributors worldwide.
Get Schön! Magazine Pure, minimal, fresh and beautiful, this is Schön! Magazine. Dynamic high-quality work from talented contributors worldwide. 250 unique-styled pages of the highest quality from the most innovative artists around the world. Schön! is slicker than your average magazine. When you consider what you’re getting, it’s definitely worth paying for. This is a must-have compilation of fashion, arts and culture. Download your collectors copy here.
CREATIVE 2010 COMPETITION ARE YOU A PHOTOGRAPHER? STYLIST? HAIR STYLIST? MAKE-UP ARTIST? WE WANT YOU !
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photography / Norman Cavazzana
Creative Direction / Norman Cavazzana Make up / Hanna Cecilia Hair / BjĂśrn AxĂŠn
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Clothes / Jasper Conran Shoes / Y3 Leather Accessories / Prada
Clothes / Jasper Conran Shoes / Y3 Leather Accessories / Prada
Photography / Dimitris Theocharis Styling / Ioannis Dimitrousis Make Up / Mina Papadopoulou Model / Frederick @premier
DISJOINTED TRUTHS TO GO WITH RANDOM PAINTINGS FROM THE LIFE OF ANIL MISTRY AKA STARCHILD
1. LITTLE RICHARD ONCE TRIED TO PICK ME UP ON A STREET CORNER ON SUNSET BOULEVARD , LOS ANGELES. I MISTOOK HIM FOR RICK JAMES AND HE DROVE OFF WITH A HURT LOOK ON HIS FACE. 2. THAT
SAME NIGHT I GOT BACK TO MY HOTEL AT 3AM AND KEANU REEVES WAS IN THE BAR. WE HAD A DRINK TOGETHER.
3. THE MOST POPULAR TV SHOW OF 2015 WILL BE “CELEBRITY MILF COOKERY CHALLENGE”
4. IF YOU POISONED THE WORLD’S COCAINE SUPPLY, YOU’D KILL OFF THE MOST BORING AND THE MOST INTERESTING PEOPLE. THE MEDIOCRE WOULD RULE THE WORLD.
5. I KNOW THE T IDENTITY OF TH BANKSY, AND I W YOU FOR A MILL POUNDS. 6. IF YOU WRAP C CLING FILM THE SMALL WINGS A MONTHS, PS. DO 7. FIGHTING OLD YOU
TRUE HE ARTIST WILL TELL LION
CATS IN EY DEVELOP AFTER 3 ON'T TRY D AGE KILLS 8. MOST OF US HAVE SAT NEXT TO A SERIAL KILLER ON PUBLIC TRANSPORT 9. RIGHT NOW THERE IS SOMEONE IN THE WORLD WHO HATES YOU ENOUGH TO WANT TO KILL YOU 10. IF THE INTERNET WAS DESTROYED, PEOPLE WOULD BE FORCED TO ACTUALLY DO SOMETHING RATHER THAN FEEDING THEIR FRAGILE EGOS ALL DAY.
11. THE WORLD IS ENDING AND
WE’RE TOO BORED TO NOTICE. 12. ONE OF THE PEOPLE WHO READS THIS WILL DIE IN THE NEXT 5 YEARS 13. THERE IS A GLASS PAPERWEIGHT ON MY DESK THAT TALKS TO ME EVERY NOW AND THEN
14. THE WORLD OF FASHION IS ABOUT CREATIVITY AND YOUTH AND SEX AND FIGHTING OFF AGE, BUT ULTIMATELY IT IS ABOUT APPROVAL 15. SOMEONE CLOSE TO YOU IS IN LOVE WITH YOU AND HAS BEEN FOR A LONG TIME BUT YOU’RE TOO BLIND TO SEE IT. 16. WE ARE ONLY TRULY ALIVE AT TIMES OF CRISIS. BURN YOUR HOUSE DOWN AND SEE HOW GREAT YOU FEEL.
17. EVERY HOME
A MICROSCOPE AND WE SHOULD ALL LOOK AT SOMETHING THROUGH IT EVERY DAY TO SEE HOW MUCH BEAUTY AND TERROR THERE IS UNDER OUR VERY NOSES. 18. IF YOU HAVE A COLD SHOWER BEFORE GOING TO SLEEP YOU WILL LIVE 14.6754% LONGER. 19. WE TEXT INSTEAD OF TALKING BECAUSE WE ARE BECOMING
MORE AND MORE AFRAID OF CONFRONTATION. MOBILE PHONES SHOULD BE BANNED. 20. CIGARETTES ARE COOL.
21. SOMETIMES I TALK TO OBJECTS IN MY HOUSE WHEN NOBODY IS AROUND.
22. THE MOST POPULAR TV SHOW OF 2016 WILL STILL BE THE FUCKING X FACTOR.
23. YOU ARE FEELING GUILTY ABOUT SOMETHING AND IT EATS AWAY AT YOU EVERY DAY. JOIN THE CLUB. 24. I FANTASIZE ABOUT KILLING PEOPLE WHO WEAR THOSE HIGH STACKED METAL COVERED GOTH SHOES. THEY ARE NOT REBELLIOUS, THEY ARE
NOT” POST APOCALYPTIC TRASH STYLE”, THEY ARE TASTELESS HEIGHT AIDS.
25. ONE DAY I WILL BE FAMOUS AND I WILL HATE IT.
Text / Anil Mistry Artwork / Anil Mistry
and r e x i a m mily. o t y in ian Fa t i l a h re Sylvan s r a h a Toss it with the rn f o chu land g d n i o v ser ed: wo l s u o ner ar-fetch e socia e g f Itâ€™s a lously icting th s, u l p ima re. ridic ures de n a a g t crea . Workin t we a s clas â€™s wh
! a l Voi tha
Photography/ . SLip . .
photography / Andrew P. Childs
Hustle here, bustle there. What a commotion! It’s a busy time backstage. A glamorous herd of ethereal beings, everyone is buzzing about and scurrying to meet demands. Scratch away the veneer of effortless style and air kissing –everyone needs to get in position. Catwalk photographers, take your mark. Models and designers, make your mark. It’s the early bird that catches the worm.
Photography / Andrew P Childs
Erin O’Conner, Stephen Jones
Laura Bailey, Jordon Dunne
Daniel Merriweather, Peaches Geldof, Daisy Lowe and COrrey
The lights come up; the models are floating down the catwalk. Snap! Flash! It’s an explosion of shutters firing. And before you know it, the magical moment is over. All that preparation, the paranormal groundwork; it’s time to prepare for the next show.
ALEXI KNOX DIARY PART TWO
IS X Y O
Pixie Lott @Pull and Bear
SO SO SO IT’S BEEN A BUSY TIME!!! Oh the excitement, it’s been fashion week!!! And this season I was very lucky to be working with two very special designers! The first was Orschel-Read, (www.orschel-read.com) presented by on/off. Styling his collection was a real treat as he had cast a clan of rude boy slash other worldly models! His Menswear collection of ready to wear and couture took inspiration from Shakespeare’s Twelfth Night and London’s multicultural youth. All set to the eerie sound of an Icelandic ‘voice-artist’. Please note the boys wore hotttt Dr Martens customised by Mr Orschel – Read! Then we have my fashion love of my life, Ziad Ghanem’s Maiden Britain fashion show in association with Fire Trap (www.ziadghanem.co.uk ). For his show, like last season, I creative directed and styled which was such a fantastic opportunity to be able to get stuck in there with the full shabang of the show! Ziad has been getting as lot of international love recently, and I don’t mean playboys in jets, well…. But I mean the new issue of VOGUE! Yes, Mario Testino shooting Naomi Cambell, wearing Ziad’s wonderful leopard print Vogue piece from last season’s show,
And it wouldn’t be fashion week without parties! Digitaria (www.digitariaworld. com) held an event of dreams for fashion week which I produced with my darhhhling pr friend delight Miss Emily Tennant. It was a packed event with an exclusive showing of the new House of Blue Eyes collection. The only word that comes to mind is ‘WOWEE’. (www.johnnyblueeyes.com)
Pull and Bear (www.pullbear.com/#/oxfordstreet) is a brand close to my heart as I styled the London flagship store launch… so why not throw a party to celebrate! My big ‘bro’ from Oxford, Liam Gleeson of Hidden Agency (www.hidden-agency.com) threw an almighty shin dig, to celebrate the launch of the store with a visit from Miss Cheshire cat Pixie Lott and performances from Filthy Dukes, Crystal Fighters and Man Like Me. The after party was equally eventful with music from Drums of Death and Joe Hot Chip creating a heavy hazy night time buzz in the intimate Bath House venue in Shoreditch. So with London Fashion Week going on it was nice to get my teeth into something outside of the big smoke – The Sunday Times Style Magazine threw a ‘Style in the City’ event in Birmingham which was a five day event of fashion shows and make-overs galore (www.styleinthecityevent.co.uk). I worked with Adage Events Agency (www.adage.com) on the styling of the fashion shows, it looks like its happening next season as well, so get in there! With London Fashion week out of the way it was off to Vienna for Marshall and I to style the Emma Bell (www.emma-bell.com) fashion show. Emma has received a fantastic artists in residency in Vienna and was invited to showcase a preview of her ss10 collection. Giant padded boob dresses, Austrian dolls and mermaid scales made the show another great success for Miss Bell! Before the craziness of fashion week kicked in, me and the crew hit up the land of Mama mias and Gondolas, the very romantic Venice for the first year of the Disco_nnect festival (www.disconnectfestival.com) held in Forte Bazzera in Venice, Italy. An eclectic and electro festival head lined by form of life, its new purpose? To merge nations with a crossing of music, art and live performances. Well whatever, we loved it, Ebony Bones performed live making the crowds go wild in her techni- coloured dream coat outfit! It was also a busy time for photo shoots working with electro pop star Annie, (www.myspace.com/anniemusic ) who has been off the radar for a couple of years (you will know her amazing electro pop anthem chewing gum) but
she is back with a better than ever album. Annie is from Norway and is the coolest little lady ever! In her own words “ The way I am, I’m always living with a melody in my mind – no matter if it’s a great melody or a shit melody. I always have this melody in my head”. Also the Marshland (Marshal) and I got to shoot for Grazia magazine with new pop sensation MPHO, (www.mphosounds.com) check out her ‘Box N Locks’ song, it’s MAJJOOOR! Go buy it on itunes now! September was pop star crazy as I also styled the ultra glamorous Viktoria Modesta for her new press shots for her upcoming album. The wonderful Viktoria actually closed Ziad’s fashion week show with her anthem ‘Satellite’ (www.viktoriamodesta.com). Her mix of elector glamour and fetish fun makes her to keep an out for in 2010. As we have established shop parties are the best and Dr Martens didn’t do too badly at all for the opening the super hot new store in Spitalfields Market, East London, and all the fashion and scene heads trotted out to cop an eyeful of some hot shiny leather, every fetish here was fulfilled with red patent boots, to chocolaty brown brogues, mmmm let me whip out my plastic! And the Tods store on New Bond Street threw a Vogue bash with Beth Jeans Houten and her band providing the entertainment for the night, I styled Beth up for this putting her in some amayyyzing Celeste Stein tights and a cute Tods jumpsuit , she looked fierce! So after a month of hecticness I think it’s time for a rest…
WELL... UNTIL NEXT TIME ALEXIS XX
Text / Alexis Knox
The sexiest cat in town. The ultimate feline in thigh-high boots. She seduces the King with pheasants and rabbits she has ruthlessly hunted. Besotted, he lavishes her with his finest clothes and gifts. Lace dresses from the best tailors and ornate jackets from the most expensive couturiers. Cuckoo-Clocks from Austrian royalty and ancient paintings by antiquated artists. Not to mention, spectacles from the most prestigious labels and headdresses from Brazilian socialites.
This is one lucky puss
Coat / YSL Stockings / Fogal Sunglasses / Ray Ban Shoes / Absolutely Dannys
Dress / Chanel Shoes / D&G vintage Feather hat / Stylists own
Skirt / Eclectics Body / D&G Belt / Diesel Shoes / Absolutely Dannys
Body / La Perla, Blouse / Chanel Vintage, Shoes / D&G Vintage Hat / Shop Meine Garderobe
Photography / Christoph Kรถstlin Photo Retouch / Christoph Kรถstlin Styling / Hair /Make-up / Julia Grunz Model / Paula Mannhardt @ Unique Model Agency
LE CLOSEAU ENCHANTÉ photography / Robert G. Bartholot
This is the modern-day Peter Pan. Mischievous, fresh, forever young – these ideas effortlessly spout off Bartholot’s photo-fashion illustrations. Hand-remodelled pieces of Maison Martin Margiela’s Artisanal collection; they experiment with altered textures and odd beauty. It’s compelling – the opposing forces and muddled moods; the gentle melancholy and sweet fears. Earthy hues are comprised; occasionally splashes of majestic purple and cobalt blue. The decadent materials are endless, like Peter Pan and his eternal childhood. It is a trip to the small island of Neverland, interacting with mermaids, Indians, fairies and pirates – and sometimes ordinary children from the world outside. This is a friendly proposal, particular but playful, void of guidelines and stifling barriers.
Photography / Robert G. Bartholot Art Direction / Robert G. Bartholot Model / Guillermo Coppini Reig MakeUp / Antonio Estrada Photo Retouch / Robert G. Bartholot Special Thanks / yoox.com for providing Maison Martin Mariangelaâ€™s garments
tribute caricatures / Otto Schwalge
Indulge yourself in these daft, heart-warming il ustrations by Otto Schwalge, the inventor of popular German comic strip, ‘Oskar, der freundliche Polizist.’ Trip-trap, trip-trap. Who’s that trotting over my bridge? the troll roared. Does this Norwegian fairytale sound familiar? This new-fangled version of the Bil y Goat Gruffs is wit y and absurd. A light-hearted caricature of three humanized goats and a muscle-man. And possibly a yodel somewhere in-between.
Caricatures / Otto Schwalge
photography / Bruna Rotunno
Previous Spread Sleeveless Jacket / D&G Chrystal Pins / Chanel Finger Pieces / Chanel Dress and Bijoux / Christian Dior
Left Dress / Alessandro dellâ€™Acqua Pearl Jewellery / Chanel Right White Dress / Riccardo Tisci
All / Alessandro dell’ Acqua Plastic Letters / Stylist’s own
Top / Alessandro dellâ€™Acqua Belt / Nicola del Verme Necklace / Nicola del Verme Underwear / La Perla
Photography / Bruna Rotunno @ Mandale Creative- Milano Styling / Andrea Barra @ mks-Milano Make-Up / Silvia dellâ€™Orto Hair / Giuly Olgiari Shirt / Nicola del Verme Jewellery / Cartier
design / Gori De Palma photography / Cristian Di Stefano
Imagine a creator who leans on soundtracks as c black and altered development of after-punk fa This is the signature work of Gori de Palma, who displays of the dark, touching perverse. Intende Ecorche is an unconventional proposal, interpret images shot by Spanish photographer Christian Di which explores and questionsthe boundaries of insid Ecorche, in French, means 'an illustrated figur of the body without skinâ€™. Symbolic of transparen body interiors emerge through clothes. The skeletal carcass of a woman juts out under a vest. Now thatâ€™s spooky stuff.
conceptual guidelines; whose work revolves around ashion and narrow sexuality. ose creative impulses are revealed through ed to pitch Palmaâ€™s SS 2010 collection, ted in a series of monochrome i Stefano, de and outside. re showing muscles ncy;
Photography / Cristian Di Stefano Design / Gori De Palma Art Direction / Glup Studio Stylist Assistant / Paula Trujillo Make-Up / Sheila Serraro Hair / Sheila Serraro Models / Patrizia Ruiz, Yasmin Avalo, Frank Betancort Photography Assistant / Erika
top/ cotton satin cropped tailored jacket middle/ silk tartan cropped tailored jacket with cotton satin skirt and silk tule and tartan layers bottom/ handmade black and white silk crochet vest dress with huge sequins
top/ silk vest middle/ country tartan shirt bottom/ silk tartan trousers
middle/ handmade black silk crochet top with huge sequins bottom/ airforce blue cotton satin trousers
top/ earrings: Kathryn Marchbank for ioannisdimitrousis middle/ country tartan strapless dress with silk tule layer bottom/ floor length silk handmade crochet dress with huge sequins
Greek fashion designer Ioannis Dimitrousis is an experimentalist who merges unusual fabric and decorative effects.
Dimitrousis graduated from the London College of Fashion in 2005 with a degree in Menswear, creating contemporary designs and exploring traditional hand-crafted techniques. His professional debut was in 2006 at the ‘On/Off’ schedule event at London Fashion Week, where he attracted acclaim from the worldwide fashion press. The core appeal behind Dimitrousis’ collection is the vast selection of materials – precious stones, crystals, pearls and beads – and that it is not subject to a narrow colour range. Notorious for fabric manipulation and using organic materials, Dimitrousis now designs for women as well.
You graduated with a degree in Menswear. How did you transition to creating clothes for women?
Is there any particular application, style of work or technique that you’re currently experimenting with?
“My menswear always had a twist of womenswear, until I have done my first show during London Fashion Week to discover that my womenswear attracted more people and a new audience. It seems like that my womenswear is shadowing my menswear at the moment, as there is more demand.”
“I try to experiment on my current techniques, such as tailoring and crochet with beadwork or sequins. I want to take those two into another level of creativity as I feel that they are my strongest elements and they need more development. “
Who would you like to see wearing your clothes?
Silk seems to be the main fabric in your latest collection. Why is that?
“It’s a material out of natural “At the moment I am targeting an resources, organic, it feels nice, elite market as most of my designs and I found those silk tailored are quite expensive; anyone who fabrics which are quite rare and feels confident in my designs, I really wanted to use them. as long as they have a sense of Also the yarn I used for all the fashion and a nice style.” crochet pieces is organic silk, which is a good contrast with the plastic sequins.” What do you hope to achieve with your designs? “The ideal would be if my designs would be remembered in later generations, and if my work did influence fashion at all. But until then, it is to make my collections more accessible to a wider audience and not only the elite, as it is quite difficult to get hold of pieces of my collections.” What’s exciting now in fashion? “All that big worry about the recession and how you see fashion houses transforming their collections into much more commercial, safe and wearable clothes, without any experimentation or any vibrant creativity on the actual clothes. Only few designers still manage to get both.” Design / Ioannis Dimitrousis Styling/ Yasuhiro Takehisa Shoes/ Office Jewellery/ Kathryn Marchbank for ioannisdimitrousis Post Production/ Lynol Lui
The Hunter photography / Justino Esteves
Scarf / Topshop Bag / Diesel Shorts / H&M Leather Sandals / Office Gun / Beretta
Little red never came home from gran rumour has it that wolves resi
ndma’s and now it’s the hunter’s job to find her. whatever it takes. ide in the wheat fields, hungry for a hot blooded anything.
unter is prepared
Scarf / Topshop Bag / Diesel Shorts / H&M Leather Sandals / Office Gun / Beretta
Raincoat / Acne Jeans Underwear / Vintage
Photography / Justino Esteves Styling / Eric Mendy Model / Johan Courgibet
photography / Fulvio Maiani
Skirt / Love Sex Money Shoes / La Perla Necklace / Stylist own
Cape / Antonio Marras Shoes / Missoni Gloves / Stylist own
Shirt / Just Cavalli
Dress / Vivienne Westwood gold label Shoes / Vicini
A girl who won’t be good might just as well be made of wood. Lacquered in plastic with a high gloss finish, she said “Hi-diddle-dee-dee, an Actor’s life for Luxurious coats and fierce heels may make you look pretty but it’s inside that counts. Remember what the blue fairy said, “Prove yourself brave, truthful and unselfish and someday Give up the game, Dollface, give up the game.
Skirt / Vivienne Westwood gold label Shoes / Giuseppe Zanotti
me.” you will be a real girl.”
Photos / Fulvio Maiani - www.fulviomaiani.com Style / Aiko Shigemitsu Hair & Make-Up / Andrea Costa @ Close_up Ag. Make-Up Assistant / Yoshiko Sakon Model / Alyssa Digital Retouch / DigitalArtouch
CATWALK>>>>>>>>>>>>>> New York fashion designer Jose Duran is a fan of bright heavy colours and manipulated fabrics. With a powerful ready-to-wear collection of vibrant coloured satins and easy draping, Duran aims to share a story with every collection he creates. The avant-garde designs from his first line looks to his hometown, the Dominican Republic, for inspiration. His shows have since taken their inspiration from historical and cultural influences of all sorts –jazz, flamenco, the New Woman, and the automobile era. Duran’s Parisian show in June 2009 featured his latest menswear collection, inspired by the wear of African hunters and soldiers. It was the first show devoted exclusively to menswear. The highlight was a khaki-coloured trench coat with a scoop neckline and buttons to mid-chest that simply screamed masculinity. The talented designer uses a colour palette that consists of airy colours, as well as bold, heavier ones. That’s the best part about Duran’s creations; the wide range of his artistic ability and visions are appealing to a broad consumer audience. Duran has been featured in several indie fashion magazines – Zoot, Metro Pop, Giant, Ebony, Bleu – along with newspapers METRO and the New York Post. He has also designed for international fashion icons Amanda Lepore and André J.
Design / Jose Duran Director / Augusto Araujo Model / Sofia Ajder @Women Direct NYC Make-up / Erin Parsons Hair / Aleksandra Sasha Nesterchuk Styling / Marc Sifuentes
Photography / Mathias Casado Castro Design / Jose Duran Men Spring 2010
photography / Emil J. Bilinski
Witches get a bad rap. So what if they’re a little possessed with a tendency to corrupt innocent girls. Wicked is underrated. When they look this decadent they deserve some credit. Snow Queens demand attention with eyebrows blue with cold, fragments of broken mirror splattered around their eyes and faces masked with glassy plastic. Sheer glacial beauty. Hansel and Gretel’s captor hides behind a fringe as not to show her face to potential prey whilst Witch Gothel boasts her prized detainee Rapunzel’s hair from her own head. These modern day mischief-makers will easily tempt you to prick your fingers.
Photography / Emil J. Bilinski Photo Retouch / Emil J. Bilinski Make-Up / Christopher Koller Hair / Mike Braun Model / Marlies P. @mikebraun.at
text & sourced / Chermiah Hart
Montreal, Canada Check Alison Cohenâ€™s blog.
I will be looking at street style through the contributions of home grown online street style bloggers. It is charming to see what ideas street style bloggers have captured about self-styling and fashion concerns of the streets in the most unexpected cities. I have tried to ensure that street style bloggers originate from that continent, in order to represent the authentic nuances of those particular cities, popular street style or trend. I will be shining a fashion eye on the sprouting beautiful people that talented street style bloggers have
captured straddling from Tallinn to Hong Kong. In my London street style contribution, I intended not only to look at youth-street fashion, but also style across the vast human spanning spectrum (youths to seniors). There should be a little something for everyone.
Portland, USA Lisa Warninger | Rebecca Westby Inspect Urban Weeds + The Sunroom now.
They say Fashion can be inspired by a diverse range of things, anywhere! And in this line up of cool street style blogs, there is evidence of gems to be found on their very own doorsteps. Street style blogging has become a commendable pastime. Some famous bloggers on street style have even transformed themselves into miniature business tycoons selling their blogs in book format such as ‘The Sartorialist’ by Scott Schuman. Some of the more dedicated online street style bloggers that are featured here even come published with clothes descriptions, short interviews and archives dating back three years. That is three whole years of documenting the ever changing street style – brilliant! I am showcasing the work of probloggers that exist in the fine fabric of street mayhem who stop and ask people to pause and pose for a minute so that the world can see their burgeoning styles. Some of the people that street style bloggers blog about clearly like to integrate fashion and style with a splash of character. What I found interesting about exploring photobloggers is that the street style bloggers selections of subjects also reveal a little something about
Hong Kong, China Drop by Jun Vosovic Fong’s vibrant blog.
Chicago, USA Discover Isadora Giallorenzoâ€™s quirky blog.
Tallinn, Estonia Catch a glimpse at Ave Laurenâ€™s dazzling blog.
their aesthetic eye. It acts like a little window into their world of what style and fashion could be about. Fashion and people move quickly these days. The great thing about these unexpected cities is that we donâ€™t really expect Street style observation from them. The style collections really reflect the diverse amalgamation of contributors across the globe avidly taking their Saturday afternoons off to update the online fashion blogosphere about what is happening on their streets. We have to be grateful for them for their bespoke endeavours to capture the authentic character and styles of the world. The global bloggers have achieved excellence to create blogs that are full of fresh, home grown, savvy dressers who know how to mix, match and inspire. Style is in full flight guys! So fasten your seatbelt for a journey into the undiscovered brilliant world of emerging fashion, style and people.
Milan, Italy Explore Francesco Vezzolaâ€™s charming blog.
London, UK Chermiah Hart Londonâ€™s penchant for style.
Tel Aviv, Israel Check out Nimrod Avigalâ€™s sharp blog.
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illustrations / Joe Murtagh
Illustrations / Joe Murtagh
HIN NEW YORK
Something wicked this way comes. What could it be? A cotton jersey â€“no more. Oh, splendid monochrome simplicity.
Black magic, dark ma Cast your runes. Feast your eyes.
Such delicate demeanours, modern and clean. Give me envy, give me malice; give me your attention.
Design / Shin New York
photography / Arkan Zakharov styling / Shan Shawar
Previous Spread Dress / Nada (Customized with Nada Fur Trim) Necklace / Eliza at Chasse Gardée Jacket / Greta Constantine Earrings / Stylist’s Own Helmet / Stylist’s Own Vintage
Dress / Pink Cobra at Carte Blanche Shoes / Finsk at Chasse Gardée Necklace / Jules Power at Chasse Gardée Cuff / Sonia Rykiel at Upc Boutique
Top / Gareth Pugh at Carte Blanche Vest (Worn as Cape) / Greta Constantine Necklace / Mimi + U at Upc Boutique
Dress / Nada Coat / Horace at Carte Blanche Earrings / Stylistâ€™s Own
Dress / Kaylee Tankus at Fawn Boutique Belt (Worn as Neckpiece) / Greta Constantine
Photography / Arkan Zakharov Wardrobe / Shan Sarwar (Artist Group Limited) Hair & Makeup / Jordana Maxwell (Judy Inc) Model / Victoria (Elmer Olsen)
photography/ Chadwick Tyler text/ Kristin Knox
EXPAT IS AS EXPAT DOES. AND EVERYONE KNOWS THAT A NEW YORKER LOVES NOTHING MORE THAN TO TALK ABOUT THE ONLY CITY IN THE WORLD THAT MATTERS, SOMETHING WHICH, BEING A LONDON-BASED FASHION WRITER AND BLOGGER BEHIND THE “CLOTHES WHISPERER,” THIS MANHATTAN NATIVE DOESN’T GET THE CHANCE TO DO AS OFTEN AS SHE’D LIKE. SO WHEN I WAS APPROACHED TO WRITE THIS COLUMN, TO BASK IN ALL THINGS NYC AND SHOUT THE PRAISES OF MY HOMETOWN FROM THE DICKENSIAN ROOFTOPS OF THE EAST END, MY ANSWER WAS, WITHOUT HESITATION: “IN A
couple loitering about Brooklyn’s naval yard, their 501s recklessly unbuttoned, plastered in black and white across London’s busses, billboards and at a tube station near you? That would Chadwick’s new campaign for Levi’s Europe. As the recession has forced the zeitgeist to take a long hard look in the mirror and has somewhat given way to deconstructed, street style aesthetic espousing all things tough-love and grunge, a new wave of designers for a new era has necessitated the need for a different kind of fashion photography, one which converges on artistic rather than commercial sensibilities. Chadwick’s work is just that; he is an art photographer first and fashion one second. Breaking down each of his images around a series of dichotomies, the high and the low, the familiar and surreal, the dirty and the beautiful, he seeks to tell a story with each shot, not move a product or brand a face. The result, more often than not, is an image somehow imbued with the timeless sense of the iconic. “I as
For my first column, it is my pleasure to introduce one of the brightest lights in my city’s creative crown: rising star art and fashion photographer Chadwick Tyler. With his studio now based in everybody’s favorite borough (Brooklyn, of course), the Florida native has shot editorials for editorials for Dazed and Confused (England and Japan), The Last Magazine and Exit Magazine in addition to the first lookbook of NYC’s darling du jour, Alexander Wang. Oh, and you know the image of that sexy, brooding
like to the
think of working
” photographer,” Chadwick says of himself. Chadwick recently launched his first gallery show, Tiberius, which featured 55 models styled in dust-bowl era attire. He is also working on three personal projects, a gallery show featuring his studio sessions with models, a book of the Tiberius images and a third book.
art + design/ Justin Pape
The Ghost, the Bat, the Sasquatch – three of six creatures that make up the weird yet wonderful ‘We Kill You’ family. Artist Justin Pape created the little chaps after becoming tiresome of the colourless, lackluster streets of Toronto. This group of brightly coloured monsters, each with a quirky name and biography to boot, can’t help but turn frowns upside down. Justin scribbled them onto posters and collages at first, before the city took notice, and the creatures were morphed into hilarious 3D visions, as quirky hand-moulded resin toys.
In addition the designer has transposed the critters onto cotton tee shirts and into frames for fans to show off to their friends on both their walls and chests. Justin’s expertise doesn’t stop at this scary bunch of friends, as last April at his first solo show in Toronto he exhibited a plethora of work including colourful portraits of his favourite film characters such as Max Fischer from Rushmore and The Bride from Kill Bill, along with framed graphic slogans proclaiming, “I lose track of my mind sometimes.” And if doing so allows him to make such edgy art then we can only hope he keeps losing it.
Art + Design / Justin Pape
Photography / Claudia Guimar達es
Hat / Puma Hoodie / Amonstro
Hoodie / Amonstro Pants / Vintage Overall / Vide Bula Hoodie and Pants / Amonstro Necklace / Jo達o Pimenta
There was once an old goat with seven little ones. Boy, she was as fond of them as every mother of her children. But as grizzly tales would have it, the wicked wolf gobbled the little bleaters up. It"s a harsh life. Not as harsh as mother dearest, though who freed her children with a snip of the wolf"s belly.
Left Shirt / Vide Bula Pants and Shoes / Jo達o Pimenta Necklace / Lidia Lisboa Right Shirt / Vide Bula Hat / Puma Shirt / Amonstro
Taken from brotherhoo down? Don't them down Colourfulan - a snarl or a
m a Grimm fairytale, here is the reality: a odofsevenvibrantbeasts.Thinkyoucanwolfthem t be tempted. In his greediness the rogue swallowed whole. And look what happened to his gut. nddynamic,theywillfightback.Whateverittakes a cuff to the jaw. Or maybe they'll devour you first.
Dress / Pink Cobra at Carte Blanche Shoes / Finsk at Chasse Gardée Necklace / Jules Power at Chasse Gardée Cuff / Sonia Rykiel at Upc Boutique
from left to right Pants and Boots / João Pimenta Hat / vintage Pants / Joao Pimenta Necklace / Stylists own Seated: Pants / João Pimenta Necklace / Lidia Lisboa Behind: Pants and Crown / João Pimenta Necklace / Vintage Sneakers / Converse Shorts, Sneakers and Hat / Puma Necklace / Lidia Lisboa, Belt / João Pimenta Shorts / Stylists own Belt / Eduardo Inagaki Snickers / Puma Necklace / Vintage Shorts / Stylists own Sandals / João Pimenta Necklace / André Mayer Hat and Belt / Vintage
Photography / Claudia GuimarĂŁes @claudiaguimaraes.com.br Photo Retouch / Leonardo Vas Styling / Mauricio Ianes Make- Up / Theo Carias Hair / Andreia Costa Models / from left to right Diego, Gabriel B, Pierre(seated), Leo, JosĂŠ Roberto, Rodrigo,Gabriel G Fashion Editor / Erika Palomino
ESTE É MEU ESTILO
The Rise of Brazilian Fashion
For decades, Brazil has been synonymous with beautiful beaches, carnivals and cheerful people. Brazilian fashion has too had stereotypes hard to shake; bikinis, tropical colours and sexiness. But times have changed and Brazil is now one of the fastest growing developing countries with an established economic system and boasts great consumer potential. The Brazilian fashion industry has been crucial in this growth and is celebrating the lucrative market after a long period of financial struggle. The turning point arrived in the 90s with the textile sector jumping into modernity and fashion weeks created in Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo. By the end of the decade, Brazilian models, led by Gisele Bündchen, were all over the major catwalks and advertorial campaigns. The country began a new chapter in its fashion history. Brazil’s famous beaches work as a laboratory for designers and set major summer trends. What’s worn on the sand is serious business.
The secret is combining techno fabrics with flattering shapes. From the sophisticated labels, such as Rosa Cha and Jo de Mer to beach focused Salinas and Cia.Maritima, Brazil is churning out the designer talent left, right and centre. The country began a new chapter in its fashion history. Brazil’s famous beaches work as a laboratory for designers and set major summer trends. What’s worn on the sand is serious business. The secret is combining techno fabrics with flattering shapes. From the sophisticated labels, such as Rosa Cha and Jo de Mer to beach focused Salinas and Cia.Maritima, Brazil is churning out the designer talent left, right and centre. So much so, that last year Claro Rio Summer was created, an event to draw attention from the foreign press and local buyers to the riches on display within Brazilian fashion. The most globally recognizable names in womenswear are Carlos Miele known for his atypical glamour and of course, the internationally acclaimed “enfant terrible” Alexandre Herchcovitch applauded for his avant garde designs and diverse prints. Alongside Rosa Cha and Iodice, these labels show at New York Fashion Week and typify the diversity of current Brazilian fashion. Not to forget, Isabela Capeto’s mix of ethnic and romantic pieces have won her acclaim worldwide and sell in the USA, Europe, Asia and Middle East. In recent years, Brazil has succumbed to the Western phenomenon that is fast fashion or “carioca” style. Farm and Espaço Fashion are the leaders of the pack and deliver trend oriented collections in a weekly supply, with lower price points. They can’t be compared to giants like H&M or Topshop but are quickly spreading stores all over the country.
Rosa Cha rosacha.com.br / Lenny lenny.com.br / Adriana Degreas adrianadegreas.com.br / Jo de Mer jodemer.com.br / Salinas salinas-rio.com.br / Cia.Maritima ciamaritima.com.br / Carlos Miele carlosmiele.com.br / Iodice iodice.com.br / Alexandre Herchcovitch herchcovitch.uol.com.br / Ronaldo Fraga ronaldofraga.com.br / Reinaldo Lourenço reinaldolourenco.com / Gloria Coelho gloriacoelho.com.br / Isabela Capeto isabelacapeto.com.br / Osklen osklen.com.br / Redley redley.com / Reserva usereserva.com / Espaço Fashion espacofashionbrasil.com.br / Farm farmrio.com.br / Fashion Rio fashionrio.com.br / São Paulo Fashion Week spfw.com.br
1,2,3 Ronaldo Fraga
Text / Mirela Lacerda
photography / Alexander James
The neon-soaked cities of Tokyo, Hong Kong and Shanghai all feature in Alexander James’ series on the energy of urban taxis at night. Having worked for prestigious names such as Versace, Chanel and Oscar de la Renta this series was purely a cathartic process for this artist and a dedication to ‘in-camera’ purity, shot hand-held from precarious locations such as highways and lane intersections. Glowing with a sense of urgency, the photographs illustrate the business of someone’s journey. Light-fanatic Alexander explores the way different landscapes interact with the reflective surfaces of the taxis aiming to capture the dialogue between the hustle and bustle of city life and the stillness of the individual within it.
Photography / Alexander James AlexanderJamesPhotograher.com
Photography / Patrick Lindblom
otorious for keeping traditional values close to heart, the Orient has been a wellspring of fashion influence for both the East and West since ancient times. But now, the eyes of the world are travelling beyond the cutesy styles of Korea, and further from the edgier, brazen faces of the Japanese, who for some time held the spotlight with its youth fashion of Harajuku, gothic Lolita, hip-hop and punk outfits. For the second year running, China is the worldâ€™s leading exporter of clothing.
MADE IN CHINA by Kati Chitrakorn
Those who purchase high street fashion in UK sometimes forget that more than half of the apparel is made in China. But, even if China has opened up a market for luxury fashion, will the world be watching Chinaâ€™s own emerging talent?
DU YANG IS ONE OF CHINA’S YOUNG EMERGING TALENTS. HER LATEST OFFERING, “BUDA” AND “PEST” (AW09), IS A MEDLEY OF EXUBERANT COLOURS AND RICH TEXTURES, THROWN IN WITH LOTS OF STRAWBERRIES, WATERMELONS, ANIMALS AND ELDERLY FOLK.
photography /Bella Howard
With intentions of shedding its sweatshop labour reputation, China has been making efforts to re-brand its cultural identity through Shanghai’s development as a new world. A dreamy modern city; Shanghai takes after Paris and is where the new yuppie generation reside. Years ago, one couldn’t buy a Louis Vuitton wallet in China. Wealthy Chinese would have to voyage to Paris for their LV status symbol fix. Today, Shanghai houses every luxury fashion brand imaginable. An incredible party metropolis with towering skyscrapers and bars open all night; Hong Kong has just been branded the new destination for ethical fashion.
Conde Nast very recently launched the first GQ China magazine; Beijing was chosen to display Versace’s SS09 collection; other labels such as MaxMara, Christian Dior, and Salvatore Ferragamo are solid investors in the Chinese arts scene. Still, there is a long way to go before China can overtake New York, Paris, Milan, or London –who only recently gained its notoriety. Surrealist fashion designer Du Yang is one of China’s young emerging talents. Citing John Galliano, Giles Deacon and Gareth Pugh as her inspiration, Du Yang has a reputation as an artist-turned-designer extraordinaire and has a cult of loyal supporters in Japan and her homeland China.
She is currently based in London, designing bizarre collections that feature monster-face knitwear and faux-fur pork chops. Her latest offering, “Buda” and “Pest” (AW09), is a medley of exuberant colours and rich textures, thrown in with lots of strawberries, watermelons, animals and elderly folk. Many of today’s inspirational creatives –luxury brand Shanghai Tang, high-fashion model Du Juan, and fashion photographer Jeff Hahn– have emerged from China. Hopefully it will continue to promote new artists as it is undoubtedly a pool of talent, brimming with creative individuals waiting to be fished out.
Designer / Du Yang Photography / Patrick Lindblom Photography / Bella Howard Text / Kati Chitrakorn
photography/ Koray Birand
Photography / Koray Birand Styling / Stephane Stolsmont Make-Up / James Poul Hair / Laurent Mann Model / Martina Prekopova @Elite Prague
Illustration / Mickael Cubel Text / Karla Jade Evans
The words ‘fashion’ and ‘Australia’ usually equal one formidable answer; Uggs. The slouchy boot that has taken over catwalks and council estates alike has become the world’s representation of Australia’s fashion scene. Yet, along with tanned-surf-maniacs, these are merely a fictitious depiction of the island’s broad and diverse industry that goes far beyond slipper-like footwear and wet-suits. Yes, they’ve always had stunning, lithe beauties gracing catwalks and campaigns (household names Elle Macpherson and other-worldly Gemma Ward, anyone?) yet what about those creative folk sewing to their hearts content? What is the world missing out on from their Australian fashion ignorance?
A lot actually. Oz based designers are becoming increasingly edgy and innovative and aggravation with the Ugg-stereotype has unleashed some exceptionally talented and worthy designers. There are most likely fantastic Australian labels already hanging in your favourite boutiques; rock chick urban wear from , the Alexa Chung fronted and Kate Moss’ favourite . Names that keep tills dinging are denim focussed brands like Bettina Liano who focuses on gorgeous sleek jeans and surfer turned Richard Nicoll collaborator .
Although these brands have brought revenue to Australia’s economy, in terms of artistry they aren’t quite up there with the Marc Jacobs or Alexander McQueens of the world. Little known , however, is. Born in Japan, he studied his craft at East Sydney College and although he now shows at Paris, he insists on additionally presenting his work at Sydney Fashion Week. His carefully crafted clothes and romantic philosophy on style in endeavouring to give fashion a soul has won him success internationally. In 1999 he was named designer of the year at the Australian Industry Awards, around the same time the Australia Post declared him an “Australian Legend” and was even featured on a commemorative postage stamp. Joining him in the fashion-based stamp collection was
1. Ksubi 2. Akira Isogawa 3. Antipodium, photographed by Adam Whitehead 4. Ksubi 5. Akira Isogawa 6. Antipodium
Collette Dinnigan. Somewhat of a legend
within Australia, Collette launched her ready-to-wear collection in 1995 and has since stocked her wares in London’s Harvey Nichols and New York’s Barneys. Last year following the footsteps of Zac Posen and Stella McCartney she launched a discount line for Target. Alongside these institutionalised Australian designers are a new wave of young designers with high-aspirations. are catapulting to success after creating desirable Herve-Leger-inspired swimsuits and one shoulder dresses that have the likes of Rose Byrne and Nicky Hilton putting orders in. Currently penetrating the international markets is Josh Goot, Australia’s answer to Peter Pilotto. Working solidly for five years Goot has created gorgeous sci-fi print mini dresses and sleek body-con pieces all causing a storm of press.
Lastly, we can rest assured real Australians don’t wear Uggs after spying big-name bloggers Scott Schulman and Garance Dore’s stylish images of Sydney folk. Apparently, Aussie’s only wear Uggs as slippers anyway, so perhaps we should all take heed, leave them in our bedroom and rock out some Bec+Bridge instead. Illustration / Mickael Cubel Text / Karla Jade Evans
DINKAS OF SUDAN photography / Mike Tsang
Music, soul and joy are not words one usually associates with the disputed and war-torn border between North and South Sudan. For photographer Mike Tsang, however, those are the lively descriptions he attaches to the controversial location. Whilst working on commission for an NGO, Tsang focused his attention on the Dinka tribe for a series of portraits. Initially Tsang was attracted to the tribe for its famed beauty known for their long limbs, high cheek bones and striking faces; supermodel Alek Wek has her roots in this tribe. Yet, soon Tsang found the inhabitants of the tribe more vividly happy and the quickest to laugh of all the places he had ever visited. The markings on the foreheads and cheeks of the Dinka are a scarification performed by village elders whilst the recipient is still in his or her teens. They are a painful yet personal induction that shows an allegiance to the tribe that will stay with them for their entire lives. Tsangâ€™s images attempt to show the enduring nature of the Dinka people who have suffered many years of hardship and displacement yet their bright outlook and tribal markings will weather the years and remain, unsoiled in their beauty and proud of their rituals.
Photography / Mike Tsang
Welcome to Krypton â€“ the native land of superheroes, and the green evil that made Superman buckle under his Achillesâ€™ heel. Shot on location in South Africa at the Afrikaans Language Monument, this is a manifestation of an African renaissance. It is completely radical. Move aside Superman, Kryptonite has no effect on these afro-juristic legends. The gritty terrain has a wondrous cinematic quality, stretching far behind the ultramodern natives. These are the new sovereign heroes and they are claiming their land. Feel the vibe of an afro-futuristic independence. It is standing ground, it is going nowhere.
Photography / Xander Ferreira Creative Direction / Xander Ferreira Styling / Design / Richard De Jager Models / Beuty, Jitsvinger
Scottish-born Sia Dimitriadi is a self taught designer who believes fashion should be elegant and ladylike. Her eponymous label, a combination of ruffles, flirty dresses, and boudoir styles from the twenties and fifties, now graces the rails of Covent Garden’s Koh Samui boutique.
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Sylvain Cotte, of Lyon, France, throws reality into a blender and churns it with elements both fantastic and bizarre. The result is SLip, a compilation of manipulated photography, only envisaged by someone with such a wild, out-ofthis-world imagination. ARTIST
Inspired by the National Geographic magazines once collected by his father, South African photographer Xander Ferreira likes to mingle with nature. Renowned for his editorial fashion shoots and advertising, Ferreira’s campaign series of Inoue Brothers knitwear have recently been placed under Comme des Garcons in Dover Street Market, London.
Originally from Afghanistan, Zohra Bakhsh finds interest in print design, fashion and photography. Bakhsh spent 3 years studying illustration at Hertfordshire University, only to venture into the world of graphic design. Bakhsh has travelled extensively, but now calls London her home. She is currently working at Schön magazine.
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