Scan Magazine | Restaurant of the Month | Denmark
part of our life, not at home and not at work. We make everything on our own: bread, chocolate and sauces, everything is made in-house.” A little division of responsibilities has also helped to ensure a smooth running of things, with Lisbeth in charge of the baked goods, cheese and desserts, and Bo managing mains and starters.
Tradition and renewal Though the principles behind the cooking of Bo and Lisbeth Jacobsen have been unfaltering for 40 years, things have not been standing still. Seven years ago, Restaurationen’s concept changed from a fixed menu to a brassiere concept with an à la carte menu. The kitchen is constantly developing too, having drifted more and more towards classic Danish cuisine. “It’s very much evolution, not revolution,” explains Bo Jacobsen. “We don’t cook the same things we did 40 years ago, but the techniques are the same; we haven’t adopted new machinery and chemistry.
We don’t use thermo blenders to make foam, gel and so on, everything is made by hand, the old-fashioned way.” In the same way, the couple has maintained the restaurant’s classic interior, reflecting their own style and preferences with tablecloths, porcelain tableware, and modern art.
Back in fashion Despite the two chefs’ choice not to jump heedlessly onto new food trends, Bo and Lisbeth Jacobsen have in recent years found their common-sense principles back in fashion. Reviewers have noticed this too, with some noting that the restaurant is in reality more seasonal than many of the New Nordic restaurants touting the principles of sustainability. But to Bo Jacobsen, the revival of sustainable gastronomy is not that surprising. “There are not a lot of truly new things coming up – a few, but not a lot. After 40 years in the business, you have
seen most of what is happening before,” he says, but also stresses that the current trends, and in particular New Nordic cuisine, have been a welcome change in his industry. “New Nordic has had an enormously positive effect on Nordic cuisine. But when it comes to us, we are just crossed by fashion – suddenly we fit in. Food is fashion and we are back in fashion doing what we have always done.” Facts: Restaurationen is located in Møntergade in central Copenhagen. The restaurant’s private dining room has a capacity of up to 45 guests. Restaurationen’s menus include a seasonal à la carte menu (with main courses at 275 DKK) and a light, two-course late dinner and wine menu (495 DKK) served after 9pm.
Top left: Husband and wife Bo and Lisbeth Jacobsen have been running Restaurationen together for 27 years. Top middle: While Bo Jacobsen takes care of the mains and starters, Lisbeth Jacobsen is in charge of desserts, bread and cheese, as well as the general management of the restaurant. Top right: Served by its own kitchen, Restaurationen’s private dining room can host parties of up to 45 people.
Issue 111 | April 2018 | 111
Promoting Brand Scandinavia. Featuring interview with Swedish pop princess Tove Styrke.