Discover Germany, Issue 29, August 2015

Page 48

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Page 48

Discover Germany | Focus on | Fine Jewellery

the 1970s he made his passion a profession by enrolling at the renowned Pforzheim University of Applied Arts.“After receiving my designer diploma, I started to develop my own collection straight away,” he remembers. Aside from his favourite artist Marcel Duchamp, the jewellery expert gathers inspiration from formal contrasts, which encourage the mind to get thinking: “My favourite is the simple shaped ring. The balance of the proportions, the ratio between ring strength and diamond size – that’s all crucial to create a classic form such as the diamond ring.”

Main image: Earrings Below: Necklace Bracelet Rings

Rebellious Ribeiro When jewellery designer André Ribeiro started out in the 1980s, his idea of mixing unusual materials to create high-end jewellery caused a lot of head-shaking. Nowadays, his collection is considered a classic line that has even made it into prestigious museums. TEXT: SONJA IRANI | PHOTOS: ANDRE RIBEIRO

“The main difference to other jewellery designers is my choice of base materials,”explains the French-born freelance designer now living and working in Berlin. “Conventional jewellery is usually based on metals or precious metals. My approach, however, is to use synthetic rubber as the carrier and contrast material for a classic composition with the diamond.” When Ribeiro started using rubber as jewellery material 30 years ago, this was totally unheard of. But taking risks has paid off. After more than 20 years of existence, this jewellery line is now considered a“classic” which is updated continuously. Today, Ribeiro distributes his jewellery all around the globe through specialist retailer part-

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ners such as jewellers and galleries. In Glasgow, Scotland, for example, his pieces turned out to be a great success. But it is not so much the sales, awards or prizes that make the designer proud. “It’s the recognition by established museums,” he reveals. Museums that have incorporated his collection in their displays are Cooper Hewitt in New York (1989), Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris (2003) and the Schmuckmuseum in Pforzheim (2005).“After all those years, this was the greatest form of acknowledgement for me.” Ribeiro’s interest in jewellery began at an early age. Using simple techniques, he created rings and pendants as a teenager. In