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PERFECTION A SECRET VIEW BEHIND THE SCENES OF GIEVES & HAWKES

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MODERNITY AND CURRENT DEVELOPMENTS

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PERFECTION.

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ON THE PHONE WITH... Christophe Lemaire BY SASKIA REIS

He has had his own line since 1991. In 2000 Christophe Lemaire had become creative director for Lacoste and stayed there for a whole decade, before moving on to new challenges. At SchĂśn! we can not believe that there are still people out there who ask the question â&#x20AC;&#x153;Who is Christophe Lemaire?â&#x20AC;?. listen to an intimate conversation with a man who never forced himself into fashion but obviously has come to stay. In 1984 you apprenticed under Yves Saint Laurent and Thierry So it happened more out of occasion and out of the need to Mugler, you then went on to assist Jean Patou and Christian make money? Lacroix for four years. Can you tell me a little bit more of R%(*#."891%)%125 your very early background, what were your ambitions as a child and your interest in industrial design? Apart from working for the big names in the industry, you have !"# $%# &"'%()*# +# ,-(# '")# ."'(./"0(12# "$(%((%3# ,/)&# 4-(&/"'# ,&%'# +# ,-(# had your own line since 1991. Was there ever a moment when -#.&/135#+#36%,#-#1")5#+#,-(#-#(/'71%#.&/13*#("#+#&-3#)"#/896":/(%#7-8%(5#+# you thought about getting rid of one or the other?# 6%8%8$%6#+#/':%')%3#."0')6/%(#-'3#0'/4"68(#-'3#+#,-(#(;%).&/'7#-#1")5# <&%'# +# ,-(# =># +# ,-(# /')%6%()%3# /'# 3%."6-)/:%# -6)*# /')%6/"6# 3%(/7'# -'3# 3%(/7'#/'#7%'%6-15

What brought you into fashion? +#,-(#&-'7/'7#"0)#,/)&#-#$0'.&#"4#46/%'3(5#<%#,%6%#:%62#80.&#/')"#?"13# <-:%#-'3#@/:/%''%#<%(),""35#?"88%#3%(#A-6B"'(#,%6%#C0()#(&",/'7# WKHLUÂż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In your own perception, you were "always a bit on the side of the fashion circus". What features brought you in this position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Â?W UHDOO\ VHH WKH FORWKHV DQ\PRUH Âą LW ZDV :%62#80.&#-$"0)#)&%#(064-.%#-'3#/8-7%#-'3#4-(&/"'#(&",(#$%.-8%#1/;%# (9%.)-.1%(5#+)#,-(#'")#-)#-11#,&-)#+#-8#/')%6%()%3#/'5#+#-8#8"6%#/')%6%()%3#/'# )&%#6%-1#3%(/7'#-(9%.)#"4#/)#-'3#)&%#/')/8-)%#6%1-)/"'(&/9#2"0#.-'#&-:%#,/)&# .1")&%(5#+#-1,-2(#&-3#)&/(#-996"-.&#"4#()21%5#+#,-(#'")#6%-112#(&-6/'7#)&%# (-8%#:-10%(#+#4%1)#)&%#8-/'()6%-8#4-(&/"'#.6",3#,-(#/')"5#+#&-3#-#3/()-'.%# WRLW,WZDVDOVRPD\EHWKHIDFWWKDW,ZDV\RXQJDQGQRWVRFRQÂżGHQW !&6"07&# )&%# 2%-6(*# )&6"07&# %S9%6/%'.%# -'3# ,"6;# +# 7-/'%3# 8-)06/)2# -'3# FRQÂżGHQFHDQG,UHDOL]HGWKDWLWZDVLQWHUHVWLQJWRKDYHDGLIIHUHQWSRLQW "4#:/%,5#R"0#&-:%#)"#$%#4-/)&401#)"#2"06#36%-8(#-'3#2"06#9"/')#"4#:/%,5

At Lacoste you proved that you can combine functionality, casual chic and very high quality. Considering that Lacoste is a sportive label, what would you say is one of the "Lemairesignatures" you gave to Lacoste? :KDW , DP LQWHUHVWHG LQ LV WKLV PL[ RI FDVXDOHDV\IXQFWLRQDO TXDOLW\ UHÂżQHPHQW DQG VW\OH , DOZD\V WU\ WR JHW GRZQ WR WKH HVVHQFH RI ZKDW FORWKHV FDQ EH 6LPSOLFLW\ DQG TXDOLW\ WKRVH DUH P\ WZR REVHVVLRQV UHDOO\<RXFDQÂżQGTXDOLW\LQYHU\VLPSOHWKLQJV,WLVQRWQHFHVVDULO\YHU\ H[SHQVLYHLWÂ?VPRUHWKHTXDOLW\RIDQDWWHQWLRQWRGHWDLODQGDWWHQWLRQWR IDEULF,DPLQWHUHVWHGLQWU\LQJWRFUHDWHTXDOLW\RIGHVLJQVRPHWKLQJWKDW .-'#1-()*#("8%)&/'7#)&-)#2"0#'%%3#-'3#)&-)#2"0#1/;%#-'3#2"0#,/11#%:%')0-112# ;%%9#4"6#2%-6(#-'3#2%-6(5#+#)6/%3#)"#$6/'7#)&-)#)"#P-."()%#$%.-0(%#+#)&"07&)# P-."()%# /(# :%62# 80.&# -$"0)# )&-)*# 46"8# )&%# :%62# $%7/''/'75# +# ,-(# -# $/)# IUXVWUDWHG WR EH KRQHVW E\ WKH IDFW WKDW \RX FRXOGQÂ?W UHDOO\ ÂżQG LQ WKH /DFRVWHVKRSVDOOWKHJRRGGHVLJQVZHSURGXFHGWKDWZDVIRUFRUSRUDWH 6%-("'(5# U0)# +# $6"07&)# $-.;# )"# P-."()%# ,&-)# /)# /(X# %((%')/-112# /)# /(# %-(2*# VSRUWLYH DQG ZLWK VW\OH ,W LV VRPHWKLQJ YHU\ IUHVK YHU\ VPLOLQJ DOVR 9"(/)/:%*#76-9&/.#-'3#."1"064015

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you explained your parameters of quality. How do you define style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ÂżGHQWDQGEHLQJRQHVHOI, DVDGHVLJQHU FDQRQO\GRKDOIRIWKHMRE 6%-112#G1-07&(H5

One of your aims is to bring poetry into daily life. How do you do that?# !&%6%#/(#'"#6%./9%*#"4#."06(%5#!&%#$/7#3/(%-(%(#"4#"06#)/8%(#-6%X#)""#80.&# /'4"68-)/"'*# )""# 8-'2# /8-7%(*# )""# 80.&# .&%-9# 3/()6-.)/"'*# )""# 80.&# .&%-9#(9%.)-.1%*#8%3/-#-'3#-3:%6)/(/'75#K'3#-1("#)&/(#3/(%-(%#)"#;/11#)/8%X# JRLQJTXLFNHUDQGTXLFNHU]DSSLQJDQGFOLFNLQJ:HORVWWLPHWKHDELOLW\ )"#)&/';*#)"#36%-8#-'3#)"#()%9#$-.;5#!&/(#/(#3%()6"2/'7#,&-)#8-;%(#9"%)625# ,WLVGLIÂżFXOWWRGHÂżQHSRHWU\EXW,WKLQNLWLVWKHPRVWLPSRUWDQWWKLQJLQ 1/4%5#+)#/(#,&-)#8-;%(#1/4%#8"6%#%S./)/'7*#$%-0)/401#-'3#8":/'75

What would you call a poetic moment in your personal life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¹UH¿QHGDQGVXEWOHDQGDOORIWKHVXGGHQLWLVQRWRQO\WHFKQLFDORUMXVW VRPHWKLQJWRLPSUHVV3RHWU\LVVRPHWKLQJWKDWVSHDNVWRRWKHUVWKDWVD\V ³/HW�VEULQJDOLWWOHELWRIVRIWQHVVPHODQFKRO\RUMR\´,WLVGLI¿FXOWWR %S91-/'*#$0)#("8%)&/'7#,%#(&"013#-11#1"";#4"65

Since you are still occupying yourself with the work on your own brand and others as well, what is it that you would like to achieve in the future? +#,"013#1/;%#)"#$%#$%))%6#-'3#$%))%6#-'3#/896":%#82#,"6;5#+#1/;%#)&/(#/3%-# RILPSURYLQJDQG,ZLVK,ZRXOGEHDEOHRQHWLPHWRKDYHPRUHWLPHWREH 1%((#()6%((%3#$2#)/8%#-'3#)&%#96%((06%#"4#3%-31/'%(*#,&/.&#-6%#:%62#()6"'7# /'#4-(&/"'5#K'3#8-2$%#3"#1%((#-'3#%:%'#$%))%65

We would like to thank Christophe Lemaire for sharing his time and his soulful thoughts with us and wish him all the best to achieve his goals!

You described the struggle. How is it possible to combine all these different responsibilities and requirements?# +#)&/';#2"0#'%%3#-#:%62#7""3#)%-8*#)&-)#/(#)&%#)&/'7#+#1%-6'%3#)&6"07&#)&%#

I understand for you it is all about simplicity and quality and

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Saskia Reis Schön! Magazine 15  

Schön! Magazine 15 Feature Gieves & Hawkes Perfection, On The Phone With Christophe Lemaire

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