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LINDSEY WIXSON ...The new Rosebud
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THE WAUGH YEARS
HOW BRIDESHEAD WAS BORN IN BAZAAR
WE BELIEVE IN EMBRACING 1 | HARPER’S BAZAAR | May 2017 A WORLD OF DIFFERENCE
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BAZAAR BRIDES |
BAZZAAR WORK |
BURST INTO BLOSSOM Whether you bedeck yourself in head-to-toe blooms or add a floral touch to your accesories, take inspiration from fashion’s ode to nature
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a z a a B r NEXT MONTH IN
Práctica de maquetación de una revista de 16 páginas, en dos versiones: PDF para imprimir y PDF enriquecido, multimedia e interactivo. IES Puerta Bonita. CFGS de Diseño y Producción Editorial 1º curso, turno de mañana. MP de Procesos de Preimpresión. Curso 2016 / 2017.
Alumno/a: SARA SÁNCHEZ JARANDILLA Sistema operativo: MAX OS X 10.6.8 Aplicaciones: ADOBE INDESIGN CS5, ADOBE PHOTOSHOP CS5, ADOBE ILLUSTRATOR CS5 Tipografías: DIDOT, GOTHAM, ADOBE CASLON PRO. Formatos de archivo: .TIFF, .EPS, .PDF 1.5. RIP: EFI FIERY GRAPHIC ARTS PACKAGE PREMIUM EDITION Impresión: RICOH PROC 651EX Published on 30 March JUSTINE PICARDIE Editor –in-chief Creative director JO GOODBY Deputy editor LYDIA SLATER Managing editor CONNIE OSBORNE Workflow director/associate editor FRANCES HEDGES Assistant to the editor CHLOE SHERARD-KNOTT
THE NEW SEASON
For a change of scene this year, see our definitive guide to the summer’s unmissable events 4 | HARPER’S BAZAAR | May 2017
FASHION Fashion director AVRIL MAIR Global fashion director CARINE ROITFELD Executive fashion, beauty and jewellery director JULIE-ANNE DORFF Bookings director MEGAN MCCLUSKIE Executive fashion and jewellery editor CHARLIE BOYD Style director-at-large LEITH CLARK Senior fashion editor MIRANDA ALMOND Junior fashion editors FLORRIE THOMAS, ANNA ROSA Senior fashion assistants CHARLOTTE DAVEY, LUCY KEBBELL Bookings assistant ALICE HART Fashion assistant TILLY WHEATING Contributing fashion editor CHARLIE HARRINGTON Fashion intern SOPHIE CHAPMAN FEATURES Features editor HELENA LEE Entertainment director/associate editor TOM MACKLIN Assistant editor/travel editor LUCY HALFHEAD Commissioning editor CATRIONA GRAY Flash! editor/features co-ordinator TERESA FITZHERBERT Contributing literary editor ERICA WAGNER
R O M A B.zero1
Mission possible How the private bank Investec is helping to inspire the next generation of female leaders to achieve their ambitions PORTRAITS FROM THE BOOK THE FEMALE LEAD by BRIGITTE LACOMBE
hen you type the search term ‘CEO’ into Google Images, you are greeted with the sight of a sea of men in suits. Almost the first female face you see is that of CEO Barbie, complete with freshly blow-dried blonde hair and a thigh-skimming skirt. It’s a concerning discovery, and one that Deborah Sayagh, a privte banker for Investec who works closely with female entrepreneurs, takes seriously. ‘How can any woman believe she has the power to become a CEO if she doesn’t see real people getting there first?’ she asks. Determined to change the status quo, Sayagh is spearheading Investec’s partnership with The Female Lead, a notfor-profit campaign to present inspiring female role models to school-aged girls. ‘It’s a long-term initiative because it focuses on educating the next generation of women about what they can achieve,’ she says. At Investec, Sayagh is taking the campaign beyond schools and into the working world by encouraging female business leaders to step forward and 6 | HARPER’S BAZAAR | May 2017
talk publicly about their experiences. ‘I’ve found that successful women tend to be willing to share their struggles, but are less likely to broadcast their achievements, particularly when it comes to talking about how they have made money,’ she notes. Breaking that taboo is vital if more female entrepreneurs are to reach the tipping point that sees them raise sufficient finance to make their businesses commercially viable. Peer-to-peer networking among women is also a valuable way of tackling the
Above: Deborah Sayagh, private banker for Investec. Left: Samantha Power, US ambassador to the United Nations. Below: Reshma Saujani, founder and CEO, Girls Who Code
DEBORAH SAYAGH PORTRAIT BY JON ENOCH
Left: Michaela DePrince, ballet dancer. Above: Vian Dakhil Saeed, Yazidi member of the Iraqi parliament, and Dr Deelan Dakhil Saeed, doctor who works in refugee camps. Right: Dr Vanessa Ogden, headteacher, Mulberry School for Girls
socalled old boys’ club still prevalent in some industries, whereby men recruit from within their own (male) social circle. ‘We need more women who are vocal and passionate about diversity, and want to help build the careers of those who are just starting out,’ says Sayagh. She cites the leading financier Helena Morrissey, who set up the 30% Club to increase the number of women on company boards, as a personal role model. ‘Helena is highly supportive of others, but unapologetic about her success,’ she says. Sayagh is keen to make women such as Morrissey more visible to her clients and the public, whether through hosting speaker events or through sharing their entrepreneurial stories on Investec’s online platform It’s to seize every opportunity that comes their way.
Far left: Karlie Kloss, model and entrepreneur. Left: Sandy Powell, costume designer. Right: Masha Gessen, journalist and activist
Left: Roya Mahboob, technology entrepreneur. Right: Leymah Gbowee, 2011 Nobel Peace Prize winner
LEADING THE CHARGE As the founding partner of The Female Lead campaign, Investec Private Banking is fostering ambition and self-confidence among tomorrow’s female leaders. The first phase involves the reléase of a book collating profiles of 60 remarkable women, from Lena Dunham to Christine Lagarde, with 18,000 copies donated to schools across the UK and the US (you can nominate a school at www.thefemalelead. com/for-schools). Investec is helping to spread The Female Lead’s message of empowerment through a dedicated online platform, The Stand (www.investec.co.uk/thefemalelead), featuring inspirational stories from leading women;stay up to date with the campaign and share your responses using thehashtag #ShesMyInspiration.
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PHOTOGRAPHS: BENOIT PEVERELLI/ COURTESY OF CHANEL, ALAMY
Backstage at Karl Lagerfeld’s Métiers d’Art show at the Ritz in Paris. Opposite: Coco Chanel photographed in her suite at the hotel in about 1937
The Ritz on Place Vendôme, where Coco Chanel returned to sleep each evening – and where her remarkable life drew to a close – has played a vital role throughout her label’s illustrious history. Following Karl Lagerfeld’s Métiers d’Art show at the hotel, Justine Picardie explores the enduring relationship between these two icons of Parisian style
When Karl Lagerfeld staged Chanel’s 2017 Métiers d’Art collection al the Ritz in Paris, it was a long-awaited home-coming. Fort he Ritz is a key component of the Chanel legend: just a few steps from Gabrielle Chanel’s first couture salon on Rue Cambon, and a place where she lived from the 1930s onwards, until her death in 1971. It’s good for us to be here, no?’ said Lagerfeld, after the show,gesturing to the gilded salons of this supremely glamorous palace hotel. And indeed, it was a welcome reminder that the City of Light could still sparkle, even in the dark days of an uncertain world. Hence the lightheartedness of the presentation, entitled ‘Paris Cosmopolite’, with the smiling models dancing their way around the tables where we, the lucky audience, sipped flutes of champagne. Here was Cara Delevingne, twirling and blowing kisses, in a black dress embroidered with cascading flowers, and red roses in her hair; there was Lily-Rose Depp, the latest face of the brand, in a glimmering gold sequined skirt and matching cropped top; and then came Pharrell Williams, jaunty in a Chanel bouclé tweed jacket and ropes of lustrous pearls. The extraordinary expertise of Chanel’s ateliers was evident in the intricately jewelled embellishments and delicate feathered tulles; though the show avoided any trace of heavy-handedness, as swift and nimble as Lagerfeld’s finest work for Chanel in the 35 years or so that he has been creative director of the brand. And of course, it was impossible not to think of Gabrielle Chanel herself; not only because her famous codes and tropes were evident in the collection – camellias, pearls, quilting – but also because of the setting. If the mirrored staircase at Rue Cambon is the backbone of the House of Chanel, then Chanel’s bedroom at the Ritz might be its hidden heart. For while her public life was conducted in the cou-
ture salons, and her richly decorated apartment on the second floor above the boutique, Chanel never slept at Rue Cambon, preferring to slip along the street, and into a side entrance of the Ritz, to her quiet bedroom on the top floor, with a view over the rooftops of Paris. Chanel’s hotel room, where she died at the age of 87, was a study in simplicity: white linen sheets, white walls, austere as the convent orphanage that had been her childhood home, after her mother’s death, when her father abandoned 11-year-old Gabrielle and her two sisters, to be brought up by a traditional order of Catholic nuns. While I was researching my biography of Chanel, I stayed in Gabrielle’s bedroom at the Ritz whenever possible: not in the splendid suite that now bears her name, but the smaller bedroom that she’d moved into during World War II, and where she’d remained thereafter, at the back of the hotel, away from the bustle of Place Vendôme. That side of the building had not yet reopened at the time of the Paris Cosmopolite show, after a fire delayed the Ritz’s extensive refurbishment, so I was unable to return to Chanel’s room, which had proven to be such an atmospheric place for me to write in the past. It was there that I had met one of Chanel’s last surviving friends, Claude Delay, who told me about the couturière’s declining years, when her courage and loneliness were equally apparent. We’d talked for several hours, while dusk fell and the room darkened, and Delay’s eyes filled with tears, her voice soft and gentle, remembering Chanel’s sadness towards the end of her life. Delay, an eminent psychoanalyst, recalled Chanel’s recurrent nightmares and sleepwalking, after which she would wake in the night, startled to discover herself in her bathroom, washing her hands over and over again, or in front of a mirror, holding the scissors that she always kept on her bedside table, having slashed at the fabric of her nightgown.
If the straicase at Rue Cambon is the backbone of the House of Chanel then Chanel’s bedroom at the Ritz is its hidden heart
10 | HARPER’S BAZAAR | May 2017
PHOTOGRAPHS: GREG WILLIAMS/ COURTESY OF CHANEL, BENOIT PEVERELLI/COURTESY OF CHANEL, WWW.VANTAGENEWS.COM, ANNE COMBAZ/COUTESY OF CHANEL
ow, if you’re blue And you don’t know where to go to Why don’t you go where fashion sits? Puttin’ on the Ritz (Irving Berlin)
Clockwise from left: a fitting before the presentation. The French actress Lily TaĂŻeb in the F Scott Fitzgerald Suite. Models dancing during the show
Clockwise from right: Pharrell Williams and Karl Lagerfeld at the show. A scene from backstage. The Taiwanese actress Gwei Lun-Mei on the staircase at the Ritz
NATURE Forgo heat styling
& us io
By KATY YOUNG and SIÂN RANSCOMBE
12 | HARPER’S BAZAAR | May 2017
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loc ks wit h ou r expe rt guide to healthy hair www.harpersbazaar.co.uk
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DETOX YOUR LOCKS ‘Frequent cleansing with aggressive shampoos will damage your hair,’ warns Truaxe. Instead, opt for phosphate-, alcohol-, silicone- and sulphate-free shampoos. ‘I think it is so important to cleanse the scalp at least twice a week with a gentle sulphate-free cleansing shampoo,’ says Cincotta. ‘A healthy, clean scalp is vital to good hair; residues left behind by conditioning, de-frizzing, smoothing and thickening shampoos can interfere with the normal growth cycle.’ KY
TAKE CARE WITH COLOUR We are a nation of color addicts, with as many as eight out of 10 of us relying on artificial tints, which can seriously damage the hair. Fortunately, the new ‘bonding’ treatments, such as Olaplex and Smartbond, can help. ‘Olaplex uses one active ingredient to reconnect broken disulphide sulphur bonds, which connect chains of proteins to give strands structure and which otherwise break when hair is coloured, or exposed to heat and chemicals,’ explains the colourist Nicola Clarke. If you can’t get to see Clarke, try John Frieda’s protein-infused Luxurious Volume Core Restore shampoo to gently refill and strengthen compromised strands. KY
Luxurious Volume Core Restore Conditioner, £6.99 John Frida
ellaire shampoo, £21.00 K é M ic
PHOTOGRAPHS: NICOLE NODLAND/ART + COMMERCE, HEARST STUDIOS
we better understand the chemistry of how sun, pollution and free radicals affect the proteins in the hair,’ says Dr Joe Cincotta, the chief chemist for Color Wow. Much like the skin, hair quality degrades due to ‘extrinsic’ lifestyle factors – essentially over-grooming – as well as ‘intrinsic’ causes resulting from the natural ageing of the follicle. ‘Hair itself is dead so it cannot “age”, but the dead fabric can be damaged further,’ explains Brandon Truaxe, the founder of Deciem. ‘However, the follicle and hairgrowth mechanisms can and do age.’ As a consequence, hair texture, density and pigmentation start to deteriorate by the time we reach the age of 40. ‘By 60 years old, nearly 40 per cent of women will have experienced some degree of hair loss, mostly around the crown,’ says Cincotta. This natural ageing process is largely due to genetics and hormones, and as such is often unavoidable, though factors including scalp health, smoking, stress levels and diet can have an effect. ‘For those suffering from temporary hair loss, there are some good topical supplements, including caffeine and amino acids such as stabilised forms of cysteine and methionine, while excellent medical solutions include minoxidil and finasteride,’ advises Truaxe. However, where the beauty industry is making real headway is with the treatment of long-term damage caused by over-styling, as well as UV exposure and pollution, the effects of which begin to be seen in one’s thirties. From micellar water and lipid-replacing serums to keratin bonding, vitamin shots and the most up-toH Y date cutting methods, the next generation of haircare looks set to be the best yet.
nly in hair health is hair beauty,’ Bazaar declared authoritatively in 1941. Yet in the intervening decades, this long-held belief in the paramount importance of strong, healthy hair has sometimes been obscured by an enthusiasm for more damaging processes, such as perms, bleaching and hot irons. However, the emphasis is shifting again: ‘Without doubt, the biggest trend now is hair that is in tip-top condition from root to tip,’ observes Adam Reed, the global ambassador for GHD. According to Mintel, nine out of 10 women in the UK now prefer not to use heat-styling tools to smooth and straighten, while nearly 70 per cent of us are choosing to go without styling products. ‘In terms of knowledge and efficacy of treatment, we’re in a really good place with haircare now,’ explains Steve Shiel, the scientific director for L’Oréal. ‘Consumers shouldn’t have to use styling products to target symptoms any more – the industry is treating the cause in the first place.’ The current focus on holistic wellbeing, which has seen a revolution in the nation’s approach to diet, skincare and exercise regimes, has belatedly reached haircare – ‘the last beauty category to catch on to the culture,’ says Shiel. Just as we have become accustomed to think about the state of our skin before applying make-up on top of it, we are increasingly considering the condition of our hair before choosing cut, colour and style, assisted by T greater scientific insight into how hair matures L A and can be affected by external factors. ‘Now
13 | HARPER’S BAZAAR | May 2017
RIPPLE EFFECT AMAN VENICE If Venice is the most magical city of all – a fantastical place, floating in the lagoon and wreathed in mist and legends – then the Aman has added yet another element of fairy-tale romance to the continuing story of La Serenissima. For it was here that George and Amal Clooney celebrated their marriage in 2014, although the hotel itself – formerly known as the Palazzo Papadopoli – has been a Venetian treasure ever since it was built in 1580. The grandest of the 24 bedrooms is the Alcova Tiepolo Suite – where the Clooneys spent their wedding night – with an original fresco by Giovanni Battista Tiepolo on the ceiling, and 18th-century painted chinoiserie on the walls. Yet for all the exquisite beauty of the interiors, the Aman’s view over the Grand Canal is unsurpassed. JUSTINE PICARDIE Aman Venice (www.aman.com), from about £810 a room a night.
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THE CHEDI MUSCAT OMAN This year, sophisticated travellers are heading to Oman’s capital Muscat, lured by its no-skyscraper policy and rich history as a port city trading in dates, mother-of pearl and fish. After a day exploring the vibrant Muttrah Souq and the Grand Mosque, return to the calm surroundings of the Chedi Muscat, a beachfront retreat that combines mystique with modernity. The hotel fuses traditional Omani architecture with Japanese and European design to create a beautiful landscape of shimmering pools, fountains and restaurants, where local seafood is in abundance. The Club Suites have peaceful terraces looking over the Gulf of Oman (whose pristine waters offer some of the world’s best scuba diving), plus access to complimentary additions such as afternoon tea, a fully stocked minibar and evening canapés. The Chedi also houses a huge spa, where the Balinese treatments are as indulgent as they are therapeutic. LUCY HALFHEAD British Airways Holidays (0344 493 0123; www.ba.com) offers three nights at the Chedi Muscat from £749 a person B&B including return flights.*
PHOTOGRAPHS: STOCKSY, DANIEL HERENDI, PATRICIA PARINEJAD. * VALID FOR BOOKINGS UNTIL 30 APRIL FOR SELECTED DEPARTURE DATES IN SEPTEMBER
The loveliest water front hotels in the world
ESCAPE IL SERENO LAKE COMO I L S E R E N O L A K E CO M O Opening a modern boutique hotel on the shores of Lake Como to stand Opening a modern boutique hotel on the shores of Lake Como to stand amid amid the much-loved grandes dames was a bold move, but one that has the much-loved grandes dames was a bold move, but one that has paid off paid off for the Sereno Hotels group. It enlisted the help of the acclaifor the Sereno Hotels group. It enlisted the help of the acclaimed Spanish med Spanish architect Patricia Urquiola to design the 30-suite sanctuary, architect Patricia Urquiola to design the 30-suite sanctuary, a glamorous a glamorous blend of wood, copper and stone, which is both soft and blend of wood, copper and stone, which is both soft and sculptural, and ﬁlled sculptural, and filled with handsomze furniture. Throughout the property, with handsome furniture. Throughout the property, ﬂoor-to-ceiling windows floor-to-ceiling Windows give panoramic views of boats criss-crossing give panoramic views of boats criss-crossing the blue waters, which can also the blue waters, which can also be appreciated from one of the fern-green be appreciated from one of the fern-green loungers by the heavenly 60-foot loungers by the heavenly 60-foot infinity pool. In the evening, dine on inﬁnity pool. In the evening, dine on luscious spaghetti carbonara or freshly luscious spaghetti carbonara or freshly caught lake fish at Ristorante Berton caught lake ﬁsh at Ristorante Berton Al Al Lago, before venturing out for a Lago, before venturing out for a romantic romantic trip in one of the hotel’s trip in one of the hotel’s wooden Riva wooden Riva boats, as the village lights boats, as the village lights twinkle in the twinkle in the hills around you. LH hills around you. LH Elegant Resorts (01244 897517; www. Elegant Resorts (01244 897517; elegantresorts.co.uk) offers three nights www.elegantresorts.co.uk) offers three nights at Il Sereno from £1,540 a person B&B at Il Sereno from £1,540 a person including flights. B&B including ﬂights.
SANI RESORT HALKIDIKI
SANI RESORT HALKIDIKI Since it is surrounded by miles of smooth, golden beaches and ancient pine Since it is surrounded by miles of smooth, golden beaches and ancient pine forests, you could be forgiven for assuming that the best thing about this Greek forests, you could be forgiven for assuming that the best thing about this Greek retreat is the setting. Yet although the views over the Aegean towards retreat is the setting. Yet although the views over the Aegean towards snowsnow-capped Mount Olympus, the home of the gods, are undeniably glorious, capped Mount Olympus, the home of the gods, are undeniably glorious, the the family-friendly resort is a source of earthly pleasures, too. The decor at family-friendly resort is a source of earthly pleasures, too. The decor at Porto Porto Sani is elegantly contemporary, and the food varied and delicious, ranging Sani is elegantly contemporary, and the food varied and delicious, ranging from from lavish buffet breakfasts to dinners at the picturesque little marina, crammed lavish buffet breakfasts to dinners at the picturesque little marina, crammed with with superyachts, where restaurants serve everything from Japanese haute superyachts, where restaurants serve everything from Japanese haute cuisine to cuisine to rustic pizzas. During the day, the vast pool with its bridges and ponds rustic pizzas. During the day, the vast pool with its bridges and ponds will keep will keep children happily occupied for hours; teenagers can enjoy the live children happily occupied for hours; teenagers can enjoy the live entertainment entertainment at the Garden Theatre; while adults can relax in one of at the Garden Theatre; while adults can relax in one of five luxurious spas dotted ﬁve luxurious spas dotted around the resort. LYDIA SLATER around the resort. LYDIA SLATER Sani Holidays (0800 810 8121; www.saniholidays.com) offers seven nights at Sani Sani Holidays (0800 810 8121; www.saniholidays.com) offers seven nights at Sani Resort from £539 a person B&B. Up to two children under the age of 12 go free. Resort from £539 a person B&B. Up to two children under the age of 12 go free. T H E H OX TO N A M S T E R DA M THE HOXTON AMSTERDAM With an impossible-to-beat location on the Herengracht canal, With an impossible-to-beat location on the Herengracht among a web of stylish shops that make up the Nine Streets, canal, among a web of stylish shops that make up the Nine the Hoxton, Amsterdam is home to 111 modish bedrooms, Streets, the Hoxton, Amsterdam is home to 111 modish each with giant beds and slick, white-tiled bathrooms. bedrooms, each with giant beds and slick, white-tiled baMost have canal views, and design ﬂourishes include ornate throoms. Most have canal views, and design flourishes include ceilings, double showers, original roof beams and geometric ornate ceilings, double showers, original roof beams and mirrors. The Apartment allows guests to mingle with the locals geometric mirrors. The Apartment allows guests to mingle through an events programme that has yoga, gardening with the locals through an events programme that has yoga, masterclasses and more on the agenda. For a gourmet treat, gardening masterclasses and more on the agenda. For a goursample a few cocktails at Up Top, the mezzanine bar – we love met treat, sample a few cocktails at Up Top, the mezzanine the ﬁery Picante de la Casa – before tucking into some bar – we love the fiery Picante de la Casa – before tucking comforting Dutch-Italian cuisine at the buzzy restaurant into some comforting Dutch-Italian cuisine at the buzzy Lotti’s. Other highlights include a snack counter selling caramel restaurant Lotti’s. Other highlights wafﬂes, Pen & Ink toiletries and include a snack counter selling caralightning-fast Wi-Fi. LH mel waffles, Pen & Ink toiletries and The Hoxton, Amsterdam (+31 20 lightning-fast Wi-Fi. LH 888 5555; www.thehoxton.com), The Hoxton, Amsterdam (+31 20 888 from about £100 a room a night.
5555; www.thehoxton.com), from about £100 a room a night.
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Frivole collection Between the Finger Ring, yellow gold and diamonds.
Van Cleef & Arpels Haute Joaillerie, place Vendôme since 1906 VC
9 NEW BOND STREET HARRODS SELFRIDGES 16 | HARPER’S www.vancleefarpels.com - +44 BAZAAR 20 7108 6210 | May 2017
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