Santa Fean February March 2016 | Digital Edition

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A 12,000-Year Tour • Owning Historic Property • Arts of Santa Fe• Taos Retreat

February/March 2016


history issue



Juan Siddi

February 13 Aspen, CO

April 14 Escondido, CA

February 27 Davis, CA

March 10 - 12 Teatro Malibran Venice, Italy

April 16 Northridge, CA

March 1 Hilo, HI

April 21 Livermore, CA

March 3 Kahului, HI

April 23 Humboldt, CA

March 8 Honolulu, HI

June 22 - 26 Jacob’s Pillow Dance Festival Becket, MA

March 18 Santa Fe, NM

March 18 La Crosse, WI March 26 Aspen, CO April 1 Santa Fe, NM April 9 Park City, UT

March 22 - 27 The Joyce Theater - New York City, NY


June 23 - 26 Jacob’s Pillow Dance Festival - Becket, MA





Melville Hankins

Family Foundation

Partially funded by the City of Santa Fe Arts Commission and the 1% Lodgers Tax, and made possible in part by New Mexico Arts, a Division of the Department of Cultural Affairs, and the National Endowment for the Arts.

5th Annual Carole Feuerman, Innertube Variant II

Courtesy of Timothy Yarger Fine Art

Palm Springs Convention Center

February 12-14, 2016 Opening Night Preview | Thursday, February 11, 6 - 9:30 pm | A benefit for the Palm Springs Art Museum

For tickets and information, visit

Com me rc ia l & Reside ntial De sign Sho wroom Hours 9-5 M-F ~ 111 N. Saint Francis Drive Santa Fe 505.988.3170 ~ www.Da Photo: Kate Russell

ARTfeast Santa Fe Indulging in art, food and wine is an act of giving.


ARTsmart presents the 19th Annual


Santa Fe Be a Part of a Great Time for a Creative Cause!

WINTER 2016 Saturday, February 27 25th Anniversary Dinner & Auction The Eldorado Hotel and Spa

Saturday & Sunday February 27-28 Art of Home Tour In partnership with Keller Williams Realty at select Santa Fe Residences

SUMMER 2016 Friday, June 10 Edible Art Tour Canyon Rd 5:00 to 8:00 PM

Saturday, June 11 Edible Art Tour Downtown 5:00 to 8:00 PM Order tickets online: Email: Call: 505-992-2787

ARTsmart empowers and transforms lives by teaching art, literacy, and life skills.


warm homes for winter

451Avenida Primera South. Organic elegance. MLS #201500672 $995,000

1145 South Summit Ridge. Energy-efficient luxury. MLS #201502297 $1,785,000

expect more

1482 Bishops Lodge Rd. Entertainers’ delight. MLS #201502460 $2,700,000

4 Thorpe Way. Contemporary, curvilinear design. MLS #201501907 $1,497,000

433 W. San Francisco St., Santa Fe, NM 87501 tel: 505.989.7741 • A Full Service Real Estate Brokerage



innovative solutions for better living

March 12 & 13, 2016 Sat 10 - 5 • Sun 10 - 4 Tickets $5.00

Santa Fe Community Convention Center Remodelers Showcase Cash Prizes • Giveaways

2nd Annual Lego Competition Sponsored by

4th Annual Santa Fe Community College Design Competition

Northern New Mexico’s Premiere HOME SHOW

Thank you to our Sponsors:

Selected pottery from San Ildefonso Pueblo, circa 1880-1910

adobe gallery

art of the southwest indian


221 Canyon Rd., Santa Fe, NM 87501 505-955-0550 •

Specializing in Historic Pueblo Pottery

the history issue



32 Northern New Mexico


February / March 2016

Tour guru Nat Shipman’s guide to the landscape

36 Mining History for Buried Facts

Waldo, Glorieta, and other ghost towns

departments 24 Santa Favorites Romantic local getaways

Santa Fe Botanical Garden features natural and artistic beauty, with year-round events that celebrate each season.



20 City Different ARTsmart, walkable Santa Fe, Shakespeare, Sweetheart Auction


18 Publisher’s Note

30 Adventure Hiking the Rail Trail, Bandelier, and more 39 Art Gail Gash Taylor, Aleta Pippin, local art previews 44 Living A lovingly kept Taos retreat; owning a piece of the past; guide to on-market historic properties


56 Dining Eloisa, Chocolate + Cashmere, Thai Night at Sweetwater Harvest Kitchen


february/march 2016



64 Day Trip Los Ranchos de Albuquerque


62 Events David Crosby, Paula Poundstone, and more




bruce adams



b.y. cooper

anne maclachlan


amy gross


stephanie love, dylan syverson DESIGNERS

jenny grass, valérie herndon, allie salazar FOOD & DINING EDITOR OPERATIONS MANAGER

john vollertsen ginny stewart


david wilkinson SALES EXECUTIVES

karim jundi, cheryl mitchell


joseph case jason strykowski eve tolpa, emily van cleve


gabriella marks, david o. marlow douglas merriam, nat shipman A PUBLICATION OF BELLA MEDIA, LLC FOR ADVERTISING INFORMATION

Pacheco Park, 1512 Pacheco St, Ste D-105 Santa Fe, NM 87505 Telephone 505-983-1444, fax 505-983-1555 SUBSCRIPTIONS

$14.95. Add $10 for subscriptions in Canada and Mexico. $25 for other countries. Single copies $4.95. Subscribe at or call 818-286-3162 Monday–Friday, 8:30 am –5 pm PST. Copyright 2016. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is prohibited. Santa Fean (ISSN 1094-1487 & USPS # 0018-866), Volume 44, Number 1, February/March 2016. Santa Fean is published bimonthly by Bella Media, LLC, at Pacheco Park, 1512 Pacheco St, Ste D-105, Santa Fe, NM 87505, USA, Phone (505) 983-1444. © Copyright 2016 by Bella Media, LLC. All rights reserved. CPM # 40065056. Basic annual subscription rate is $14.95. Annual subscription rates for Canada and Mexico is $24.95; other international countries $39.95. U.S. single-copy price is $4.95. Back issues are $6.95 each. Periodicals postage paid at Santa Fe, NM and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send all UAA to CFS. NON-POSTAL AND MILITARY FACILITIES: send address corrections to Santa Fean, P.O. Box 16946, North Hollywood, CA 91615-6946. Subscription Customer Service: Santa Fean, P.O. Box 16946, North Hollywood, CA 91615-6946, Phone 818-286-3165, fax 800-869-0040,, Monday–Friday, 7 am –5 pm PST.

405 Paseo de Peralta, Santa Fe, NM 87501 505.983.3912 | convenient parking at rear of showroom

Full Service Interior Design Antiques, Home Decor, Objects

photo Š Kate Russell




ANYONE WHO’S LIVED OR TRAVELED in Europe can easily identify with the old-world quality that Santa Fe possesses. Our streets are not planned and orderly, with an engineer’s linear approach. Instead, our roads and avenues meander, curve, and follow the path with the fewest obstacles. In my estimation, this came about by trails initially defined by local wildlife, Native Americans, and eventually cattle and early Spaniards. This random design gives Santa Fe that old-world historical feel. Our architecture only furthers this sense of the past, as so many of the structures in the historical areas of town were initially built several hundred years ago. While on the inside they enjoy most major modern conveniences, the soft, rounded corners speak to the initial adobes developed by the local Native Americans. Given that so many cities of the West came about only in the last 125 years, Santa Fe stands out as one with a far deeper and richer past. This issue is a reminder of Santa Fe’s history and how you can touch it. We’ll give you some tips about purchasing historic properties. Many of the romantic getaways we suggest have some historical conection. There’s something about romance with the backdrop of time that makes it feel more significant and long-lasting—possibly from the multitude of romantics who have embraced in these very spots. And finally, we take you out of Santa Fe to experience the geology of the land that predates all of us. Fantastic formations such as those found at Tent Rocks are dramatic reminders of how our mountains, rivers and landscapes came to be. When I consider our past and the way we look back at Santa Fe’s roots, I wonder how future generations will look upon us, the caretakers of this history. They’ll see what we built, what we created, and how well we planned for them. This is a significant responsibility. The good news is that Santa Fe has proved to be sustainable through the centuries, always capable of attracting those who relish the area’s history and natural beauty with considerations for the future. The past is fascinating, and the future is ours to behold. DAVID ROBIN



A 12,000-Year Tour • Owning the Past • Historical Hiking • Taos Retreat

February/March 2016


history issue ON THE COVER Evelyne Boren, Morning Light at the Miranda, oil on canvas, 30 x 36" Represented by Acosta Strong Fine Art​ located on Canyon Road.

For up-to-the-minute happenings, nightlife, gallery openings, and museum shows, visit You can also sign up for Santa Fean’s E-Newsletter at

|O V E R H E A R D | Q: What is the spot that exemplifies the spirit of Santa Fe? “There isn’t any one spot that I can choose specifically. Anywhere I can see the blue sky, white clouds, and mountains—it’s just a comforting sight. It could be from the Cross of the Martyrs looking over town; or driving on 285 south as I crest the hill near the 599 bypass; or from the Eldorado area looking toward the Sangre de Cristo Mountains.” —Douglas Merriam, photographer “Canyon Road, with its history, creativity, imagination, and culture. It represents the past, present, and future.” —Christina Gill, General Manager, Inn on the Alameda “The Plaza pulsates with eons of history and culture in Santa Fe. Everything—from an ancient Pueblo site to art markets to modern music festivals—lives right in the heart of town.” —Anne Maclachlan, Editor, Santa Fean magazine


ARTsmart’s K–12 programs benefit local art students like Jade (pictured). Santa Fe high schoolers will give live painting demonstrations at the nonprofit’s 25th anniversary gala.

the buzz around town

ARTsmart’s 25th anniversary dinner and auction EVENT The nonprofit organization ARTsmart celebrates its 25th anniversary with a full weekend featuring a gala dinner and auction at the Eldorado Hotel & Spa on Saturday, February 27, and the annual Art of Home Tour on both Saturday and Sunday afternoons. The dinner and auction involve the collective efforts of many dedicated artists, chefs, interior designers, students, and other community members—including ARTsmart’s 2016 Honorary Chair Ricardo Caté, the Kewa Pueblo heritage keeper known for his comic strip Without Reservations. Dinner starts with sparkling wine and hors d’oeuvres, followed by culinary creations from some of the City Different’s top chefs: Eldorado Hotel’s Tony Smith, Angel Estrada of Midtown Bistro, and Dinner for Two’s Andy Barnes. A selection of fine wines complements the meal, and Santa Fe High’s culinary students will present desserts. The popular Art of Home Tour showcases a dozen homes this year, each featuring artwork from local galleries. These fundraising tours take place on Saturday and Sunday from noon until 4 pm. There is no charge for these tours; however, 10 percent of sales of artworks featured on the tour will be donated to ARTsmart. ARTsmart supports local K–12 school programs by funding scholarships and providing lesson plans, materials, and accredited instructors to classrooms. ARTsmart’s high school students will paint artworks on-site, while placemats, plates, platters, and bowls by Santa Fe Public Schools fifth graders will be auctioned. Tickets for this extravaganza cost $175—a donation that will transform into creative education allowing our community’s children to prosper with opportunities to explore, experience, and engage in the visual arts. —Stephanie Love

Art of Home Tour, February 27–28, free, contact ARTsmart for details,, ARTsmart 25th anniversary dinner and auction, February 27, $175, Eldorado Hotel & Spa, 309 W San Francisco, 20

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Above: Fifth-grade students from Santa Fe Public Schools will provide placemats, bowls, and other items for the auction block.

Proceeds from the auction (above) will support ARTsmart’s efforts to fund scholarships, place instructors, and help improve curriculum and classroom materials in local schools.

The Book’s the Thing: Shakespeare from Stage to Page Life's but a walking shadow, a poor player, That struts and frets his hour upon the stage, And then is heard no more. It is a tale Told by an idiot, full of sound and fury, Signifying nothing. —Macbeth, Act V, scene V 2016 observes the 400th anniversary of William Shakespeare’s own death; and though he wrote the speech above, nothing could be further from the truth when applied to the words of The Bard himself. In celebration of his memorable wisdom, the New Mexico History Museum’s Palace Press is presenting The Book’s the Thing: Shakespeare from Stage to Page in conjunction with the New Mexico Museum of Art’s First Folio! The Book that Gave Us Shakespeare. The exhibit will be held at the Palace of the Governors and will include printing demonstrations on a replica Gutenberg hand press (visitors can make their own prints); artwork by the Santa Fe Book Arts Group; calligraphy; and handmade paper. Shakespeare’s wit and depth are as popular in modern times as they ever were, and for many, so are printed books and handwritten notes. Alas; Out, out, brief candle! This show will run only from February 5–28.—Anne Maclachlan

58th Annual Heard Museum Guild

Best of Show Drawing | March 4


Jaycee Nahohai (Zuni), “Lonkeena”, Large owl pot, 7”H x 10”W. Two small owls by Rowena Him (Zuni). Donated by the artists.

James Garcia Nampeyo (Hopi), Migration design. Facilitated by the Heard Museum Shop. 7”H x 10”W

Britney Eustace (Zuni), “Hopi Parrot Bowl”, Heard Guild Student Art Show & Sale, First Place, purchased by the Heard Guild, 4”H x 5.75”W

Susan Folwell (Santa Clara), “The Rescue”. Donated & facilitated by King Galleries and the artist, Scottsdale, Arizona, 7”H x 8.5”W


The Book’s the Thing: Shakespeare from Stage to Page, February 5–28, New Mexico History Museum, 113 Lincoln,

Famed Potters - Fabulous Prizes $25 per ticket - $20 each for 3 or more Purchase tickets online at

2301 N. Central Ave. Phoenix, AZ 602.252.8840 x2276 The Book’s the Thing will feature calligraphy and printing press workshops, plus an exhibition of work by the Santa Fe Book Arts Group, like this interpretation of Henry VIII by Will Karp.

Drawing winners do not need to be present to win. Tickets can be purchased at the Heard Museum Admissions Desk, online and by phone.

On the block at the Sweetheart Auction: dinner with actressdirector Marsha Mason (far left); artwork including this sandblasted blown-glass basket by Preston Singletary (upper left); vacation packages like the European Riverboat Cruise from A-Rosa Cruises and David Morris International (lower left); and much more.



Cancer Foundation for New Mexico’s 11th annual Sweetheart Auction FUNDRAISER Save lives and impress your sweetheart by supporting the New Mexico Cancer Foundation at this Valentine-themed buffet dinner and auction. Items on the block include the famous “Dream Vacation Raffle,” featuring a trip for two to one of the following destinations: Five nights at the Andaz Peninsula Papagayo Resort in Costa Rica; three nights in Cuzco, one at Machu Picchu, and three in Lima, Peru; four nights at two of the best golf courses in Scotland; and a Tuscan Culinary Escape of seven nights, with a private cooking class and spa treatment. Other prizes include dinner with actress and director Marsha Mason; a painting by Dan Namingha; a sculpture by Allan Houser; and much more. Proceeds benefit the Foundation’s ability to fund critical transportation and medical services to Northern New Mexicans. No patient who qualifies for help is turned away.—AM

11th Annual Sweetheart Auction to Benefit the Cancer Foundation for New Mexico, February 6, 5 pm; $75, Santa Fe Community Convention Center, 201 W Marcy,

Santa Fe on Foot





BOOKS The term “walkability” is something of an urban development buzzword these days, but Santa Feans have always been lucky that way. Not only has our city been walkable since it was founded in 1610, but for the last 30 years we’ve had Elaine Pinkerton Coleman suggesting the best routes for an amble, stroll, or hike, whether in town or out on the trail. Her guidebook Santa Fe on Foot (Ocean Tree Books) first came out in 1986, and its fourth edition is being released in April. This latest version introduces five new hikes, including a survey of publicly accessible labyrinths. Previous iterations of the book contained illustrations by local artist Eli Levin; the current version also includes six photographs; and there’s also a foreword by Dale Ball, who “is responsible for the boom in the trail system,” notes Coleman. In addition to special sections dedicated to running and cycling, Coleman offers several chapters detailing treks centered around “the hub of old Santa Fe.” In her view, do-it-yourself walking tours are ideal for experiencing the City Different’s history; benefits include “feeling the sun, breathing the air, and being able to talk with people, explore, and go off the beaten path.” The book also lays out the stories behind many historic sites. “These,” says Coleman, “are dimensions that your GPS just can’t give you.”—Eve Tolpa

| S A N TA FA V O R I T E S |

romantic getaways leaving the oustide world behind by Anne Maclachla n a nd Stepha nie Love photo graphs by Gabriella Ma r ks

SOMETIME BETWEEN WINTER’S END and the first whispers of spring comes the urge for retreat and renewal—and when that special someone is along to share the joys, how much deeper is the experience! While Santa Fe is the perfect Valentine’s Day destination, the City Different offers many getaway options all through the year. Perhaps it is a retreat to an ultra-luxurious, very private hillside nest through Proctor Property Management; or a hint of the Downton Abbey lifestyle with full butler service at Hotel Santa Fe, The Hacienda and Spa. Raise a glass to a commanding view of the City Different from atop the Inn and Spa at Loretto; escape to a classic 19th-century romantic hideaway at the Inn of the Turquoise Bear; or become immersed in comfort and rose-infused spa treatments at La Posada de Santa Fe Resort. No matter what captures the fancy, the following pages will help with selections of ways to delight sweethearts.

The “Jewel of Circle Drive” has a leave-it-all-behind feel. It is suprisingly close to the Santa Fe Plaza, for easy access to a romantic concert and dinner before watching the sun set from the private hot tub.

For guests who desire independence and privacy in luxurious surroundings, Proctor Property Management has many options. The “Jewel of Circle Drive” (left and lower left) enjoys unparalleled mountain views and serenity; yet the location is a mere two minutes from all of the entertainments to be found at the Lensic and the Santa Fe Plaza. Below, tucked just off Canyon Road and ideal for art lovers, is “Sophisticated Santa Fe”: a spacious, charming adobe for two, with soaring ceilings and its own wine cellar.

“Sophisticated Santa Fe” is an elegant extended-stay cottage for two in one of the oldest, most charming parts of town. It is within easy walking distance of the Plaza.

There are plenty of spots to curl up together and take in extraordinary mountain views from the “Jewel of Circle Drive.”


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Hotel Santa Fe Hacienda and Spa’s butler tends to the details in one of the large fireplace suites.

The Hotel Santa Fe Hacienda and Spa’s dedicated butler service enhances a weekend of champagne and roses.

Nothing could be quite as romantic and gracious than a quiet getaway overseen by a private butler. The Hotel Santa Fe Hacienda and Spa provides just such a unique treat to guests who seek the ultimate pampered experience. A welcoming note from the butler, along with a basket of fruit, awaits (sparkling wines, flowers, and chocolates— or anything else the heart desires—can also be arranged). Butlers function as personal concierges, so if concert tickets are required, room service or dinner reservations needed, a special outing is requested, or if the champagne should be poured, one need only ask.

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Intimate evenings can be spent on one of the penthouse’s five balconies, offering both city and mountain views.

The Inn and Spa at Loretto is an ideal downtown getaway for both Santa Feans and out-of-town sweethearts. With nine junior suites, four one-bedroom suites, and Santa Fe’s only penthouse suite, the hotel’s retreats provide privacy among a long list of luxurious amenities. The Spa at Loretto offers wonderful couples treatments, including the popular Corazones en Fuego spa package, which comes complete with a rose-petal bath, massages, facials, and manicures. A relaxing day at the spa is perfectly paired with a romantic couples prix fixe dinner at Luminaria Restaurant; this special menu will be available during Valentine’s Day weekend. Breathtaking views of the St. Francis Cathedral and Sangre de Cristo Mountains are worthy of a toast on any night.

A private reading nook in the spacious penthouse features plush lounge chairs and cozy cashmere throws.

Above: The upstairs master suite, accessed by an adobe spiral staircase, offers even more privacy within the inn and features a luxurious king size bed.


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Georgia O’Keeffe’s namesake suite is one of 11 private rooms on the property; each one honors an author, artist, composer, or other influential visionary who frequented the inn.

Witter Bynner updated this complex in the Spanish-Pueblo Revival style, inspired by the initial rooms from the early 1880s. Today’s innkeepers mimic the tradition, but implement modern amenities.

The Inn of the Turquoise Bear encourages leisure and fitness. Several of their vacation packages incorporate hiking, while others are catered to honeymoons, “babymoons,” and the Santa Fe Opera.

The former home of Santa Fe socialite and activist Witter Bynner (1881–1968), the Inn of the Turquoise Bear is rich with a history of hospitality. Bynner and Robert Hunt, his companion of almost 40 years, were notorious for their uproarious parties; acclaimed photographer Ansel Adams called them ‘‘Bynner’s bashes.’’ The welcoming atmosphere today is more refined and intimate, but the innkeepers remain influenced by the property’s roots. Emphasizing creativity, comfort, and deluxe accommodations, the inn offers sanctuary for sweethearts celebrating Valentine’s Day, anniversaries, and—most important—each other’s company.

A delicious Santa Fe breakfast is provided each morning, and takeaway trays are encouraged for guests desiring a more romantic in-room retreat. february/march 2016

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Part of the original 1880s Victorian-style mansion, Julia Staab’s original bedroom—now Suite 100— was built especially for her by her husband Abraham.

Locally inspired, upscale products make the spa all the more romantic, including rose petals that are offered with “Julia Staab’s Historic Rose Garden” treatment, which honors her historic love for the sweet-scented flower.

A detail from one of the suites; many rooms offer authentic historic features including original wooden or tile floors, adobe walls, traditional viga and latilla ceilings, and kiva fireplaces.


Ranked as the fourth best hotel spa in the nation by USA Today, La Posada de Santa Fe Resort and Spa embodies the rustic elegance of Southwestern style. Couples can spend their time alleviating stress in Spa Sage, cozying up beside the fire in the Staab House bar, or enjoying one of many spacious Southwestern-style suites on the resort’s grounds. Locally sourced meals—breakfast through dinner—are served every day at the hotel’s fine dining restaurant Julia, a Spirited Restaurant & Bar, which is inspired by Julia Staab, La Posada’s original hostess. It’s rumored that her benevolent ghost haunts this beautiful resort, but no one can blame her for deciding to stay. 28

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The “Alluring Escape” package includes champagne and strawberries, a romantic room, two 50-minute massages, and breakfast. This package is available year-round.

Jewelry by MILES


Earrings: 18K gold cast spirals with Ethiopian opals $3600.00

Necklace: Rough Cut Labradorite beads with SS and 22K gold spacer beads. 5 Graduated and studded beads SS, 22K gold inlaid with natural Ethiopian Welo Opals. 18” L. $8800.00

61 Old Santa Fe Trail • Santa Fe, NM 87501 • 505.983.9241 february/march 2016

santa fean



hiking historic New Mexico f our trips wit h a t ale by Ja s on Str y kow sk i


The village of Tyuonyi, at the heart of Bandelier National Monument, is not alone in its grandeur. Yapashi Pueblo, six miles away, is equally magnificent.

FROM STONE AGE habitations to railroads, New Mexico has witnessed eons of history, and much of it left tracks in the sand. We’ve compiled a few trails that hikers and history lovers can follow into the past. A note: Even the short trails demand careful preparation. In New Mexico, especially at altitude, weather can change quickly and without warning. It’s advisable to check trail conditions before leaving. Always pack a jacket and first aid kit when going on a hike. Finally, bring plenty of water for everyone in the group. A few of the hikes listed below require entrance fees. Be sure to check ahead for prices and availability. 30

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Sandia Man Cave A short, but twisted trail into prehistory Difficulty: Extremely easy Length: 1 mile, round trip Directions: From Interstate 25 heading toward Albuquerque, take the New Mexico Highway 165 exit in Placitas; then head east for 12 miles. The hike is an out-and-back from the marked trailhead. In 1995, mystery writer and Santa Fe resident Douglas Preston wrote an exposé for the New Yorker. In the article, Preston presented evidence that a cave located in the Sandia Mountains and discovered by University of New Mexico students may have been the site of an archaeological hoax. Legendary University of New Mexico Professor Frank Hibben reported the discovery of artifacts suggesting that the

Sandia Cave was a 25,000-year-old residence for prehistoric New Mexicans. If accurate, this finding would have changed the concept of human history in North America, connecting humans in the present-day United States directly to ancestors in Europe. Preston stops short of concluding that Hibben fabricated his research, and the mystery remains. Some clues linger in the old cave, which can be entered on this short hike. Do the walls and floors look altered? Would people truly have chosen to reside in this location? Explore this possibly historical site to decide.

The mesa at El Morro National Monument beckoned passing travelers with a stable source of water and its majestic topography.

Bandelier National Monument’s Village of the Stone Lions Guardians of the ancestral Puebloan tradition Difficulty: Strenuous Length: 13 miles round trip Directions: This trail is accessed through the visitor’s center at Bandelier National Monument. From Santa Fe take 84/285 north. Continue on New Mexico 502 toward Los Alamos. At the intersection with New Mexico 4, bear left to White Rock. From the visitor’s center, go north and to the west side of Frijoles Canyon. Pick up the marked Mid-Alamo trail and hike six miles to Yapashi Pueblo. Built around 1300 AD and occupied for several centuries, Yapashi Pueblo is also known as the “Village of the Stone Lions.” The town itself had 350 rooms in its central plaza and six kivas (places of worship). Together with the neighboring village of Kuapa, this area sustained a sizeable population. In the 17th century, residents of this area relocated to modern-day Cochiti Pueblo on the banks of the Rio Grande. If you should see them, be aware that the stone lions remain offlimits. Around them can be seen a circle of stone blocks and a field of antlers—evidence that the lions are considered sacred by Native peoples. The residents of Zuni Pueblo, for instance, are said to have made pilgrimages because they believed the shrine to be the entrance to their underworld. The people of Cochiti consider the Village of the Stone Lions a former home, and often return. Visitors should keep in mind, therefore, that the lions sit on hallowed ground and must be treated with respect.


El Morro National Monument Historic graffiti at the crossroads Difficulty: Easy Length: 2 miles round trip Directions: Take Interstate 40 east to exit 81 and proceed for 42 miles. The Headlands Trail begins at the Visitor’s Center. It winds around the mesa before making a short ascent to the top. Covering a thousand years of history in just two miles of trail, the hike around El Morro National Monument encompasses a solitary butte that captures rainwater at its zenith and filters it into a small pool along one of the sides. This natural spring drew travelers for more than a millennium. Some of those who stopped to water themselves and their horses left their names and a message in the soft sandstone cliffs. Their carvings are still visible. Ancestors of the modern Zuni people built a village on top of the mesa around 1200 AD. They also carved sacred art into the rock walls. The Spanish passed by the watering hole nearly 400

years later and left their marks as well. During the Mexican-American War, Americans were the first to catalog the extensive petroglyphs. They were followed by pioneers who were traveling west past El Morro. Rail Trail A short spur Difficulty: Easy Length: 2 to 34 miles round trip Directions: There are several access points between the Railyard in Santa Fe and Lamy, 17 miles down the historic trail. The path is paved between the Railyard and Rabbit Road; beyond this is open country. Before the arrival of the railroad, travel to New Mexico’s capital city required carriages and horses. The road from the nearest whistle-stop in Colorado was a painful stretch of “buckboard”—laterally laid slats of wood. Although contemporary carriages featured rudimentary shocks and struts, they could hardly make the ride comfortable. In 1880, the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railway finally arrived at Galisteo Junction (now known as Lamy), about 14 miles south of Santa Fe. Eventually, a spur line was built so that the train could arrive into the center of Santa Fe. The spur remained in commercial use until the 1960s. Since then, the space along the track to the Galisteo Junction has become the aptly named Rail Trail—a convenient spot for exercise and a brief look into the past. february/march 2016

santa fean


Northern New Mexico

the 12,000-year tour

by Eve Tolpa photographs by Nat Shipman

Exploring the area around Ghost Ranch leads to mind-boggling vistas and vibrant displays of color.


orthern New Mexico’s land and culture are steeped in history. It was a mere five years ago that Santa Fe celebrated its quadricentennial; and though four centuries is a long time, it’s nothing compared to the tenure of Native Americans in the area, which stretches back thousands of years—or, for that matter, the broad swath of geologic time, the breathtaking evidence of which surrounds us from every angle. We asked Nat Shipman, whose company Tours U Design offers customized expeditions, to suggest historical points of interest north of Santa Fe—sites with significance not necessarily matched by their visibility, either literally or metaphorically. “Ninety-nine percent of the people coming here are coming to Santa Fe, period,” Shipman says of visitors who contact him. “I sit down with them and help expose them to what’s in an 80-mile radius.” Growing up Anglo in the Pojoaque Valley, Shipman was in the cultural minority—and he wouldn’t have had it any other way. In his view, “the most unique thing about this area is the mosaic of three cultures.” He uses the word “mosaic” quite deliberately, objecting to the term “melting pot” and the sacrificing of culture it implies. “No one,” he asserts, whether Native American, Hispanic, or Anglo, “is leaving anything at the door.” Shipman has strong—and well-informed—opinions about what he calls “the real hidden wonders” that illuminate the history of Northern New Mexico, although he is quick to point out that “they’re not actually hidden. They’re right there, if you know where to look.” Anytime he is dealing with Native American subjects, Shipman says, his first tour stop is always the same: the Poeh Museum and Cultural Center in Pojoaque. “It’s a phenomenal museum that focuses on the Ancestral Puebloan way of life as it relates to the Eight Northern Pueblos,” he explains. “If I’m tak32

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Left and far left: Despite arduous terrain, historic peoples took control of their harsh environments, creating beautiful art, functional objects, and shelters. Below: The colorful swath cut by the Jemez River.

The unearthly geography of Tent Rocks National Monument has attracted a lot of sci-fi filming ventures.

The ancient and mysterious Gallina tribe inhabited this isolated sandstone alcove, now referred to as the Nogales Cliff House.

ing people to Bandelier, Taos, or Puye, for example, it is a must-stop. It sets the whole stage.” The tightly focused museum boasts a rotating exhibit space displaying various forms of indigenous art—jewelry, textiles, or pottery, say—and a classroom used for teaching Native American youth about their culture. The focal point, however, is the permanent exhibition, Nah Poeh Meng (Tewa for Along the Continuous Path), which divides the history of the region’s Ancestral Puebloans into four seasons and features amazingly expressive figures by Santa Clara Pueblo sculptor Roxanne Swentzell, as well as immersive panoramic murals by Marcellus Medina of Zia Pueblo. The museum is small and intimate, and admission is free. Shipman notes that pueblos are perennially popular with visitors, but says, “I’ve never seen anyone ask about old Spanish Colonial stuff. The history of this area was never taught.” Not coincidentally, the High Road to Taos—a rich repository of the old Spanish Colonial way of life—is a popular route on Shipman’s tours. Many visitors are familiar with the High Road’s world-famous Santuario de Chimayó, often called the Lourdes of America, but less well known is the Santo Niño Chapel. It’s right next to Santuario and, built in 1856, only about 40 years newer. “The Santo Niño chapel is like the Toon Town version of the Santuario,” says Shipman. “It’s all about the Christ child.” february/march 2016

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Think you’ve seen the O Keeffe Museum? Look again!

Galleries = HOMe & studiO = stOre researcH center 5O5.946.1OOO = OKeeffeMuseuM.OrG Todd Webb, Georgia O’Keeffe Photographing the Chama Valley, New Mexico, 1961. Gelatin silver print Georgia O’Keeffe Museum. Gift of The Georgia O’Keeffe Foundation (2006-06-0983). © Todd Webb Estate.

Above: A stunning winter view of the ski basin from Cuyamungue. Right: A ruin north and above Abiquiú Lake rests at the foot of the Cerro Pedernal. Far right: An eagle’s nest in Ghost Ranch is carefully hidden within the cliffs.


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In contrast to the Santuario, which is “austere and dark and kind of spooky,” Santo Niño is “bright [and] fun.” Rather than being filled with offerings of crutches, like its neighbor, it is replete with baby shoes. “It’s every bit as miraculous as the Santuario, but the whole focus is completely different,” Shipman says. (And, he notes as a bonus: “If we’re going to the Santuario, you go another mile and a half up the road and you get to Santa Cruz Lake overlook. It’s one of the most phenomenal views.”) “No matter what direction you go, the scenery is constantly changing,” Shipman says of New Mexico, adding that geographical history is “one of the amazingly magical things about the area.” He points out the difference in geologic structures caused by volcanic activity, which creates the flat tops of mesas, versus sedimentary rock, responsible for the multilayered formations that appear in Georgia O’Keeffe’s paintings. Shipman likens the area around Abiquiú (a.k.a. O’Keeffe Country) to the southeast corner of Utah, explaining, “There is a kaleidoscope of colors in these amazing sandstone formations.” Devoid of kaleidoscopic color but no less breathtaking is Plaza Blanca, a white-clay formation located on the grounds of Dar Al Islam, a nonprofit Islamic education center. The scenery here, says Shipman, is “mindboggling,” and hiking the Box Canyon takes about an hour. Not far from Plaza Blanca is a stretch of road Shipman refers to as the “Miracle Mile” (in reality, it’s closer to 1/8 of a mile). Traversing it requires don’t-try-thisat-home driving, and the terrain changes rapidly and dramatically in a very short span. The payoff is a spectacular view of rock formations—predominantly red and white—unlike anything else in the area.

Above: One of the best times to visit Bandelier National Monument is in the winter, when the palette and serenity of the season are unfortunately often missed. Left: The Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi flaunts a shimmering coat of snow in downtown Santa Fe.

The Plaza Blanca rock formations in Abiquiú inspired Georgia O’Keeffe’s White Place paintings.

Echo Amphitheaer in Abiquiú is five miles past Ghost Ranch.

“WHENEVER I GO SOMEWHERE, I want to meet the ‘me’ that lives there,” says Nat Shipman. In other words, he likes to be introduced to a locale by a lifelong resident with insider knowledge; thus, he started Tours U Design in 2012 as a way of offering that experience to visitors. When he meets his guests, Shipman first questions them about their interests. Are they into photography, geology, art, history, hiking? To what degree? Do they have children? What is their level of mobility? Then, he says, “I put together a specific tour based on what they want to see.” He describes those tours as pliable and flexible, changing direction as needed. “I do stop on the way a lot,” he notes. “I take people on a lot of weird, crazy detours.” History is one of Shipman’s passions, but, ironically, he hated the subject growing up, perceiving it as “discombobulated.” Eventually, he realized that “everything is cause and effect, and when I started looking at it that way, it got really cool.” Shipman’s own personal history, gregarious personality, and obvious love for his home state—plus the many books he’s read—all inform his tours, which encourage active participation and questioning from guests. Not that he has to encourage them all that much. “When I take somebody outside,” he says, “their brain engages.”­—ET february/march 2016

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mining history for

buried facts

A lone sign marks the former rail town of Waldo, just north of Madrid near the BNSF tracks.


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Anthracite coal breaker and power station buildings from Madrid’s erstwhile mining town days.


ghost towns in Northern New Mexico


Dawson in the early 1900s.


BNSF tracks meet near the Waldo site, heading into Madrid.

Above: Most of Dawson’s homes and structures were moved to nearby Raton when Phelps Dodge Corporation closed the mines in 1950.

by Emily Van Cleve



here are more than 400 abandoned villages and settlements, colloquially called ‘ghost towns,’ scattered throughout New Mexico. Some of them were commercial centers or stops along a trading route, but the majority of them were mining sites that now contain crumbling foundations and pieces of rusty mining equipment. The ghost town of Dawson, located about 140 miles northeast of Santa Fe near Raton, was a thriving coal mining town of more than 1,000 people in the early 20th century. It was owned by Phelps Dodge Corporation, which obtained laborers from New Mexico as well as recruits from Italy and Greece. The only evidence of this previously vibrant settlement are a couple of foundations, and rows and rows of white metal crosses in the cemetery marking the graves of miners killed by explosions in 1913 and 1923. “The reason there aren’t more remains is that Phelps Dodge moved most of the buildings to Raton so they wouldn’t have to pay taxes on them,” says Richard Melzer, a history professor at the University of New Mexico– Valencia. “Dawson was a tight-knit community. To this day, descendants of the miners get together for reunions.”

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The Glorieta ghost town site is set back several miles into the wilderness near Glorieta Camps.


A long-derelict automobile lies along the trail to Glorieta’s ghost town.

New Mexico is peppered with over 400 ghost town sites, including several in the Santa Fe region, such as Glorieta, Waldo, and Golden. Mining superintendent Oscar Huber transformed Madrid when he bought the coal company in the early 1900s, paving the streets, building new homes, constructing a small hospital, and installing electricity. He also established a Christmas lighting display that drew visitors to Madrid from throughout the state. Unlike Dawson, Madrid is now a thriving town with more than 40 shops and galleries, several restaurants, and other businesses. Close to the village of Glorieta, about 20 miles southeast of Santa Fe, are the ruins of a 19th-century ghost town that had a hotel, two saloons, and four sawmills. 38

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The Santa Fe area has its own ghost towns, including La Bajada, Glorieta, Waldo, Cerrillos, Golden, and Madrid. Melzer interviewed three dozen former miners from Madrid for his 1976 book Madrid Revisited: Life and Labor in a New Mexican Mining Camp in the Years of the Great Depression in order to find out what life was like in this coal-rich town, which was initially owned and operated by the Albuquerque & Cerrillos Coal Company. “What I discovered from my conversations was that everyone in town treated each other well during the Great Depression,” says Melzer. “Many of the miners I spoke with had good memories.” A 6.4-mile round-trip hiking trail, starting off at Glorieta Camps and open to hikers during summer, leads to remnants of this once-active community. Hikers pass by a rusty car and decrepit silver mining equipment on the way to the remains of a two-story wooden hotel built in the late 1800s. Everyone driving on Interstate 25 from Santa Fe to Albuquerque passes by the ruins at La Bajada, originally a farming community that once served as a stopping point for stages and freight wagons descending La Bajada Hill. By the early 1940s, most residents had left town. There’s still an adobe shell of the town’s former Catholic church along with wooden fences and crosses indicating neglected graves. Along major highways and quiet country roads across the state, dilapidated foundations and overgrown graveyards hold secrets of once-thriving communities, long since abandoned, but whose voices still whisper through history.



409 Canyon Pippin Contemporary’s new location: a lot of history by Steph a ni e Love

FLUSH WITH ART GALLERIES, studios, and the occasional restaurant or casita, Canyon Road’s history created the eclectic neighborhood it is today, and the lot at 409 Canyon typifies that transformation. Originally a centuries-old trail along the river to and from the mountains, the area around what is now called Canyon Road was eventually farmed by early Spanish settlers. Later, the riverbank became a residential destination for visiting artists. The first to live there permanently was Gerald Cassidy; in 1915, he purchased a house at 1000 Canyon, the same year as the 409 Canyon structure’s original rooms were built. The 409 residence belonged to the Delgado family when former Santa Fe mayor Larry Delgado was born there in 1936. Since 1978, the building has served a more commercial purpose as an art gallery. Tom Ross arrived at the gallery space 23 years ago and had immediate success there. While moving paintings into the gallery after business hours, he captured the attention of passersby: “Before we knew it, these people were pulling out their credit cards, buying three pieces on the street in front of the main entrance.” The latest occupant of the space at 409 will be Pippin Contemporary, which is scheduled to relocate from 200 Canyon to 409 in May. Dur-

ing the changeover, Pippin Contemporary’s roster is acquiring six artists from the Tom Ross Gallery, bringing Pippin’s total number of artists to 17, including Pippin herself.

“Moving to our permanent home is the culmination of a dream that began when I opened Pippin Contemporary.” —Aleta Pippin Aleta Pippin’s abstract paintings display vibrant palettes and energetic beauty that will certainly enliven the historic adobe. Excited for her own opportunity to prosper at 409, Pippin says, “Moving to our permanent home is the culmination of a dream that began when I opened Pippin Contemporary.” The gallery will maintain its inviting atmosphere while providing fresh aesthetic updates to the building and sculpture garden. Pippin Contemporary, 409 Canyon,


The former Tom Ross Gallery at 409 Canyon will serve as the new permanent home for Pippin Contemporary.

Right: Aleta Pippin, Energy Abounds, oil on canvas, 48 x 48"

Above: Aleta Pippin, Carried by the Wind, oil on canvas, 60 x 36" february/march 2016

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Gail Gash Taylor honoring the equine muse by Steph a ni e Love

GAIL GASH TAYLOR’S VIBRANTLY REALISTIC animal portraits are so extensively collected that some may be surprised she hasn’t always created representational art. Although her muses have changed throughout the years, the Santa Fe painter explains that her background in abstract art still influences her creative process; all art experiences provide practice. Of a painting’s visual elements—line, form, light, color, and composition—she says, “After a time, [these] technical aspects of art become intuitive.” Taylor’s newest compositions of horses, rabbits, and other animals certainly prove this is true. Taylor’s passion for animals motivated her drastic transition from lithographic abstraction to realistic oil painting. She says this change would have been met with many challenges in art school—horses are often deemed trite subjects in modern times—but she pursued her interest. Proving the art school paradigms wrong, Taylor’s bold and powerful animal portraits have been a staple of the Manitou Galleries downtown location since its grand opening, and almost half her art career has been dedicated to these paintings. Her choice of content corresponds with her secret to success as a painter. She says, “Artists should paint their obsessions.” Obsessed with her current muse, Taylor renders her horses across the expanses of enormous canvases that demand her audience’s attention. Her striking use of size and scale amplifies each subject’s importance; contributing to this effect are strong, stationary poses. A confident, unflinching face made larger than life evokes the grandeur of regal portraiture. Through these approaches, Taylor elevates her oftendismissed subjects. She says, “Horses are like my nudes; they allow me to study form and line the way other artists use the human figure.” Her horses reflect this figurative treatment with intense, almost tactile musculature and glistening skin. For each portrait, she consults Six Quarters, diptych, oil on mounted panel, 36 x 96"


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photographs of many varieties of horses. Her favorite season to capture these images is the late spring, when horses have grown their fresh, shiny coats. Recognizing that an artist’s environment motivates their work, Taylor paints creatures from nature, surrounded by nature, within a studio constructed of natural materials. She built the adobe studio with help from her neighbors, and has worked there since 1979. Although Taylor’s work boasts numerous public and private collections, she believes her success is a perpetual process. She says, “Artistic growth takes patience and lots of work and lots of time.” Gail Gash Taylor, Manitou Galleries, 123 W Palace, Del Oro, oil on mounted panel, 36 x 48"

Under See City of Mud, 114A Hickox March 18–mid-June, reception March 18, 5–8 pm The subliminal and the sublime form the innovative concept for this gallery’s spring season group show. The imaginatively collaborative arts and design space—just a few blocks from the Railyard Arts District—will display subconscious and aquatic imagery portrayed by numerous local artists in many different styles. The show’s roster includes Jamie Chase, Sasha Pyle, Ann Burgund, Bill Sortino, Holly Wood, Frank Ettenberg, and Spencer Snyder, among others. The décor and artifacts featured at City of Mud alongside the show relate to its insightful theme.—Stephanie Love



Jamie Chase, Reflected, acrylic on paper, 30 x 40"

Failure of Modernity Peters Projects, 1011 Paseo de Peralta, Through March 12 Kent Monkman’s poignant, perturbing acrylics examine the clash of worldviews between ancient indigenous cultures and contemporary society, and the consequences of the West’s troubled history of co-opting Native aesthetics, narratives, and traditions. Surrealistic scenes in a realistic style, his vast paintings evoke the breakdown of nostalgic Americana as well as the struggle of Natives who feel marginalized and exploited in a modernizing world. Monkman, with both Irish and Cree blood, virtually embodies his subject matter. Much of his work can be read as a personal response to depictions of First Nations people by such historical artists as fellow Irish-Canadian Paul Kane. His stated goal is to “[construct] new stories through images that take into account the missing narratives and perspectives of Aboriginal peoples.” Failure of Modernity will remain on display at Peters Projects through March 12.—Dylan Syverson Kent Monkman, Love, acrylic on canvas, 72 x 48"

Obsessions ViVO Contemporary 725 Canyon Through March 21 Impulse is an important force in the lives of creative persons—often, the greatest masterpieces leap straight from heart to canvas, unencumbered by the trivialities of planning and prudence. Obsessions highlights the human tendency to inflect our creations with our personalities—our interests, fixations, fears, and superstitions. As an artist develops these traits into a creative routine, the results become individual variations on deeply personal themes. The featured artists work in a variety of media, and each has a unique modus operandi: Ilse Bolle transforms rusty found objects, paper, and tamarisk plants into collage-like designs; book artist Joy Campbell creates origami-influenced paper sculpture; and Barrie Brown forms intricate landscapes from finely ground, sandlike glass, then fires them in a kiln to set.—DS

Joy Campbell, Kusudama Flowers 1, altered book pages, 15 x 14 x 7"

Rena de Santa Fe

Only in Santa Fe - Only from the Artist

• Original paintings • signed prints • limited edition figurines

Studio hours by appointment only

(505) 466-4665

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Jane Cassidy, Mystery of Lady of Guadalupe, acrylic on canvas, 24 x 48"

Guadalupe Eye on the Mountain Gallery 614 Agua Fria Through February 29 Embracing the heritage of Santa Fe, this year’s annual Guadalupe show curates a wide selection of artists to George E. Griffith, Letters that Cross in the Mail, portray their perspective color-infused metal, 11 x 14" and style—contemporary or traditional—on the spiritual subject. The artworks featured may include abstraction, expression, and representation; they will reflect each artist’s personal interpretation of the Guadalupe icon. Since this show encourages many conventional and unconventional materials and processes, each piece will be entirely unique. Last year’s Guadalupe-themed group show gained press nationally and internationally, and is gaining momentum as a beloved Santa Fe gallery event.—SL

Ray Tracey A One Man Show Sorrel Sky Gallery, 125 W Palace, February 5–29, reception February 5, 5–7:30 pm Navajo artist Ray Tracey is acclaimed for balancing a dedication to his tribe’s jewelry traditions and his fascination with contemporary designs and techniques. He particularly enjoys hunting for rare and unusual cabochons—rounded, polished gemstones—to set in the original pendants, bolos, rings, and other jewelry that he crafts. Whether using traditional materials such as turquoise and silver or intricate multistone inlays with gold, Tracey’s concepts come from many sources. From the wisdom he’s earned in his many years as an artist, he says, “I am now more in tune with intangible sources of inspiration.”—SL

Thomas Roth, D1, mixed media, 36 x 36"

Ray Tracey; Petroglyph Pendant; sterling silver, Chinese turquoise, lapis, orange spiny oyster, red spiny oyster, purple spiny oyster, jet, and white magnesite; 5 x 2"

Miles Standish; Spiral Cuff; sterling silver and 14k, 18k, and 22k gold with Australian opals; 3 x 2"


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Heartfelt Expressions Alexandra Stevens Gallery of Fine Art 820 Canyon, February 13–28 Reception February 13, 5:30–7 pm Featuring all of the gallery’s established artists, the show celebrating love in the month of February has become an anticipated annual event. With extensively collected artists such as Phil Epp, Katrina Howarth, G.E. Griffith, Walker Moore, E. Melinda Morrison, Jody Rigsby, Jeannine Young, Victoria TaylorGore, Ken Smith, Ruth Valerio, and Peggy McGivern, there is an extensive variety of artwork in style and size, perfect for any loved one.—SL

Thomas Roth White Tansey Contemporary, 652 Canyon, February 12–March 4, reception February 12, 5–7 pm For his solo exhibition, Thomas Roth created 10 new mixed media pieces—small to large—that explore the power and elegance of white pigment while also emphasizing the importance of texture and form. Of his work, Roth says, “The more basic the color, the more inward and pure. White is not a mere absence of color; it is as fierce as red and affirmative as black. I could paint in many colors; but could never paint with such gaudy elegance as when I paint in white.” Roth will attend the February 12 reception to answer further questions about his art.—SL

Miles Standish Inspirations from the Natural World: Works in Silver and Gold with Precious Stones Malouf on the Plaza, 61 Old Santa Fe Trl, Trunk show February 6–7, display through February 29 Presenting the latest works by Santa Fe–area jewelry artist Miles Standish, Malouf on the Plaza’s weekend trunk show will feature pieces in both silver and gold. As one of the shop’s established artists, Standish explains that the medium is inherently his: “I sometimes feel as though the silver chooses me.” He draws imagery and form from his natural surroundings and environment; from cloud shapes to the curve of a leaf, the expanse of a bird’s wing to a seashell’s texture, Standish finds beauty in many organic places and has crafted his inspirations into silver since age 20.—SL



John Farnsworth, Riders on the Range, oil on panelmounted paper, 6 x 6"

Jennifer B. Thoreson, Untitled #3, gelatin silver print, 8 x 8"

Photographic Exhibitions Series Verve Gallery, 219 E Marcy February 12–April 16, reception March 11, 5–7 pm Bubriski book signing March 12, 2 pm From photojournalistic portraits to landscapes to figures in symbolic settings, Verve’s new show presents a vast array of subjects. Noted documentary photographer Kevin Bubriski releases his latest book Look into my Eyes: Nuevomexicanos por Vida ’81–’83, paired with his photos. Jennifer B. Thoreson will share work emphasizing stages of self-discovery through her female models and poignant themes. David Halpern’s extensive experiences with the National Park Service’s Artist-in-Residence programs set the precedent for his latest journey of images from Bandelier National Monument. Added to these three notable artists, local photographer Jan Pietrzak will exhibit his talents with a series of intimate platinum palladium prints.—SL

Frank Buffalo Hyde, I-WITNESS (CULTURE), acrylic on canvas, 40 x 30"

John Farnsworth and Michael Tatom Essential Visions Michael Tatom, Puma on Rocks, cast bronze Sorrel Sky Gallery, 125 W Palace with patina and rocks, 7" tall, base 6 x 6 x 3" March 4–31, reception March 4, 5–7:30 pm This dynamic show highlights the inspiration and celebration of the West by examining the works of two New Mexican artists. Oil painter John Farnsworth and bronze sculptor Michael Tatom portray Western life through gestural renderings and elegant lines; both artists will exhibit their newest small works, ranging in subject from wild days to wildlife sculpture. Sorrel Sky Gallery owner Shanan Campbell Wells explains that the artist pairing is as aesthetic as it is thematic: “John’s intimate paintings and Michael’s sleek sculptures perfectly complement each other—they are simply stunning together in the gallery.”—SL

Tom Kirby, Violet Painting #2, oil on canvas, 66 x 46"

Tom Kirby Mathematica Winterowd Fine Art, 701 Canyon March 11–23, reception March 11, 5–7 pm Tom Kirby’s newest 64 works will be on display during his upcoming solo show at Winterowd Fine Art. This series revitalizes his minimalist colorheavy style by also incorporating his appreciation of mathematics. These works feature perpetual, pure forms; diagrams; and mathematical formulas. His paintings and mixed media works strike up visual conversations between textured planes of bold color and scholastic imagery, revealing the beautiful balance of both raw and refined. Kirby says, “My interest in these equations and geometrical diagrams is their permanent and eternal nature. Mathematical truth [is] essential and enduring; these are also the aesthetic qualities of true art.”—SL

Frank Buffalo Hyde Solo Exhibition Tansey Contemporary, 652 Canyon, March 11–April 1, reception March 11, 5–7 pm Recognized as a leader in contemporary Native Art, Frank Buffalo Hyde believes it is an artist’s duty to define their times in order to reflect, provide commentary, and to enrich conversations between cultures. Hyde employs popular culture imagery in his bold paintings to reveal alternative perspectives on modern-day Native experiences. His latest series of graphically styled artwork begs his audience to ponder how technology affects the lenses through which we view reality. Hyde explains the layers of emotion and intellect in his work, saying, “[I overlap] imagery to mimic the way the mind holds information: nonlinear and without separation.”—SL february/march 2016

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lifestyle lifestyle || design design || home home


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Windows: Sierra Pacific Windows; custom chandeliers: Uncommon Lighting; fireplace: Tierra Woodstoves.

A GREAT ROOM INDEED. This is the space where Susan and Richard’s family gathers, the adults catching up on life and the kids enjoying friendly rivalries over classic board games. The drama of the Taos Ski Valley lies just beyond the window that rises almost 20 feet to the rafters. Beneath elegant custom chandeliers and before a roaring fire, old family traditions are passed down and new ones made in this one-of-a-kind cabin and retreat that is a legacy of love. Read all about it on page 45. Shaw Architecture LLC,

by Amy Gro s s photo graphs by David O. Ma r low

legacy of


it’s all about family, friends, and skiing at a Taos retreat

OVER THE STREAMBED AND THROUGH THE woods is an amazing cabin in the Taos Ski Valley that’s enjoyed by many lucky individuals. While its predecessor, which stood in the same spot as the current cabin, was the quintessential rustic getaway, this gorgeous residence is a thoughtful reimagining of the cabin in the woods concept, a beautiful and amenity-filled retreat that can be enjoyed—comfortably—12 months of the year. Susan and Richard have many memories of that first cabin, built over a period of several years in the early ’70s by Susan’s late parents, Hugh and Carol Gormley, and one of her uncles. Hugh and Carol passed the cabin down to Susan and her two sisters. Steve Shaw, AIA, of Shaw Architecture LLC, designed the current cabin after meeting Susan and Richard through Taos-area homebuilder Jim Henderson of Noble House, Inc. Shaw gives serious props to Susan’s dad for the impressive and thrifty design of the original house, particularly given how difficult the site accessibility was back then. Simply furnished and technology-free, it was what Richard calls “a common man’s cabin”—a perfect, low-tech getaway. Despite its excellent craftsmanship, it became apparent a few years ago that the cabin had reached the end of its shelf life, and following the second of two

wintertime frozen pipe fiascos, Susan and Richard realized that simply remodeling the original home wasn’t going to cut it. They tasked Shaw with scrapping his remodeling plans and starting over with a teardown of the original cabin. “It certainly made life easier,” Shaw notes. “We were chasing some serious issues around the site—one of the major ones, of course, being that we were building at 9,800 feet. Being able to start from scratch allowed us to come up with an optimal design.” For Susan, one of the driving forces in that design was the continuation of the tradition of her parents in providing a retreat and a gathering place for family—a place where they could do things together, away from technology. “What’s nice is that we can do that with february/march 2016

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Above: The dining room, naturally, is large enough to accommodate a crowd of guests, with a massive pedestal table and Windsor armchairs. An oversized mirror hangs at one end, reflecting the great room and its expansive windows on the other end.

Right: When the house is full, the kitchen—which is right off the entrance to the home—is jumping. Susan topped her 11-foot island with reclaimed teak sourced through Sequoia of Santa Fe. A staggered row of merry orange pendant lights from Allbright & Lockwood picks up the warm tones of the custom alder cabinetry and barstool seating.


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this house, but there’s room to grow,” says Susan, who quips that the transformation from old cabin to new “is almost a Beverly Hillbillies difference.” With seven bedrooms, a finished basement, a large kitchen, a gathering room, and, happily, excellent plumbing, this new residence, though built on the same site as the original cabin, has a slightly larger footprint because of its three stories and is certainly able to accommodate a crowd. Noble House, Inc. brought Shaw’s plans to life, and both Shaw and Susan, who is no beginner when it comes to remodeling and building, were impressed with the craftsmanship of Henderson’s woodworkers. “I’ve never seen people who cared so much about their product and put so much love and art into what they do,” Susan marvels of the textured columns that divide the kitchen from the entryway, and the glass-smooth railings leading to the second floor. She designed the interiors and sourced materials for the new home; much of the furniture came from ACC Santa Fe and The Raven (formerly Recollections). To the homeowners’ delight, Shaw captured a view from every window—and on this choice site, the views are spectacular. Going for a treehouse effect, Shaw gave each cozy, comfortable bedroom a pair of French doors and a balcony. In the great room, enormous windows

“We started with a window at the kitchen sink and went from there,” says architect Steve Shaw. Large and ultra-functional, the kitchen features custom cabinetry by Northern Lights Woodworks that plays off a Northern New Mexico–style backsplash from Statements in Tile/Lighting/Kitchens/Flooring.

The new cabin continues Susan’s parents’ tradition of Books, rather than electronic devices, are the name of the game at this low-tech retreat. A library at the top of the artisan-crafted stairwell reminds visitors to slow it down and grab a good read.

providing a retreat and a gathering place for family. february/march 2016

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Cozily and simply furnished, each of the seven bedrooms proudly features French doors that lead out to individual balconies to mimic a treehouse effect.

A bathroom features his-and-hers granite countertops from Granite Concepts in Taos, warm cabinetry, and above the shower, a porthole window.


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To the homeowners’ delight, there’s a view from every window—and on this choice site, the views are spectacular.

Susan got creative when furnishing the new home. She lucked upon a huge consignment of pieces liquidated from a single house at one consignment shop, supplementing those furnishings with a few new pieces and aspen beds from the old cabin.

Noble House’s exceptional woodworkers instilled detail, craftsmanship, and artistry into features such as the stairwell and the hand-carved columns separating the kitchen from the entryway.

rise almost 20 feet to the wooden trusses, offering a breathtaking, direct view to the mountain peaks and overlooking a streambed that rushes with water during the summer. In addition to impressive green building features and superinsulating construction methods, the cabin boasts modern luxuries like radiant heated floors and a boot room with boot dryers and ski warmers (where it’s situated on the mountain, the cabin is ski in, ski out). “My dad would think this is a little much,” says Susan with a laugh, “but my mother would love it!” Design- and comfort-wise, this lovely new cabin is a far cry from the rustic getaway Susan’s parents built decades ago, but their legacy is keenly felt when Susan and Richard’s children, grandchildren, and extended family gather to ski, celebrate holidays, and simply get away from the hustle and bustle. “The cabin was built with inherited money, so in a sense my parents built it,” says Susan. “It was a great gift.”

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by Jo s eph Ca s e











buying properties in Santa Fe’s historic districts




becoming a steward of history

Westside Guadalupe







THE UNITED STATES’ OLDEST CAPITAL CITY, Santa Fe is considered one of the most Gaspar beautiful and historic places in the country. It also offers the opportunity to own historic properties, from old Spanish forts and Territorial-style homes of renowned artists and writers to old adobe ranch dwellings. There are some things to know, however, about historical status, potential tax credits, and building upgrades before you buy an older home in the City Different. Santa Fe’s five historic districts occupy 20 percent of the town (see map, right). These areas date back as far as the early 17th century, when Spanish settlers arrived and eventually farmed the land, and the Pueblo Indian communities were centers of religious and cultural activity. “Almost all [U.S. cities’] historic districts reflect a commercial venture of some sort,” says local realtor Karen Walker of Karen Walker Real Estate. “Charleston, South Carolina, has a shipping background that is reflected in [its architectural style]. New England homes, and their historic districts, reflect fishing backgrounds—for instance, the rooftop platform called a ‘widow’s walk’ where wives of fisherman would wait for the return of their husbands.” Of Santa Fe’s historical influence on architecture, Walker continues, “[It’s] more of a ceremonial reflection rather than trade. The buildings reflect the spirituality—where people came together, a gathering place. It’s pure.” If you’re looking into the variety of real estate options found within Santa Fe’s historic districts, here is what you need to know to avoid unexpected complications.


Downtow & Easts



Homes and properties in Santa Fe’s historic districts fall into one of three levels of historic status: non-contributing (less than 50 years old and without sufficient historical integrity); contributing (around 50 years old and with sufficient integrity); and significant (50 years or older and retaining a high level of historic integrity). In simple terms, significant homes have the most restrictions placed on them regarding allowable renovations, while noncontributing homes will have the fewest. When considering purchasing real estate located in one of Santa Fe’s historic districts, it is important to know what you can and cannot do in terms of remodeling and renovations. And there’s one person in particular you and your realtor should seek out: David Rasch, the Supervising Planner for the city’s Historic Preservation Division. “It is not uncommon for someone interested in buying a home in our historic district to be unaware of the potential historic status upgrade,” notes Rasch. “For instance, say a house was built in 1967 and is located in a [historic] district. It becomes eligible for a status upgrade next year.” The individual who just bought that house may not know that they will soon own a home eligible for historic status—and more important, that this status carries restrictions. Any exterior alterations that are publicly visible require a proposition that is then looked at by Rasch and ratified by a separate board, a process that usually takes two months. Rasch advises that before buying a home, have an idea of what you may want to do in terms of remodeling and ask his office about it.

“People have a love/hate type of relationship with us,” adds Rasch. “For instance, a homebuyer will sometimes learn only after their purchase that there is now a set of rules and a process for renovations ranging from roofing to replacing window panes.” Conversely, homeowners seeking to have their property’s status upgraded could learn that despite the building’s 50-year age, prior additions and remodeling efforts have overwhelmed its ability to achieve historical status. One of the most important things when looking at homes is to have correct information. “Does the seller really own what he is purporting to sell?” says realtor Walker. “It can happen that the seller has unintentionally sold the wrong parcel of land. Land can be passed down family to family with little attention to courthouse recording systems or accurate boundary surveys.” When these records are unclear, Rasch points out, sellers may not be aware of their property’s historical status. This is where the Historic Preservation Division can assist in helping both the seller and the buyer determine whether the property in question is in the historic district, and to understand the home’s eligibility for a particular status. “Come speak with us,” he reiterates. “We can figure it out quickly.” “It can get complex, but we are set up for the public good,” Rasch continues. “Balancing that with property rights is the toughest part. Some view it as punishment, but upgrading can be valuable in terms of incentives.”


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Historic Review Districts


According to the current owner’s research, this small and charming residence down an alley off Galisteo Street was built in 1890. It was originally part of a tract of land owned by a local family since the mid-19th century. The home has been totally remodeled and features radiant heat under brick floors; a new eat-in kitchen with stainless steel appliances; and a new bathroom with a double vanity, a large tub/ shower, and a vaulted ceiling. A door from the kitchen leads to one of three patios surrounding the home. Native plants and flowers add pizzazz to this unique property. On a nice day, put on your comfortable shoes and enjoy the sevenblock walk to the Plaza.

List price: $439,000 Contact: John Erickson, 505-699-9559, Coldwell Banker Trails West,

GETTING YOUR MONEY’S WORTH There are in fact many financial incentives for buying a vintage home in the historic district. Studies show that properties in historic districts resell higher and are remarkably resistant to market downturns, which means that merely being located within the district may enhance a home’s value. “Being in the historic district has more impact on values than the specific designation of the structure in the district,” says local realtor Jennifer Gallagher of Sotheby’s International Realty’s The Santa Fe Team. “However, the historic district does command the highest values of any location in Santa Fe.” But there are also enormous tax benefits. “New Mexico is one of two states that puts money where its mouth is regarding the preservation of historic structures,” says Walker. If the home you are looking at is registered as historic by the State, then a slew of potential tax credits and write-offs come into play. To own historic property in Santa Fe is not merely to possess a building and its grounds; it means holding a stewardship that protects an important part of the city’s history and charm. With the correct resources and assistance, a homeowner can be part of the legacy that makes up the City Different.

705 ½ Galisteo Street


wn side

[on the market]

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santa fean


[on the market]


This cozy and charming adobe home in the heart of the Eastside has been around for more than 100 years. The current owner believes it was built in 1909. Featuring thick adobe walls, brick and oak floors, and old vigas, the home has one full bath and one three-quarter bath as well as a spacious kitchen with a skylight and new countertops and tile. A den/office can be used as a third bedroom. Two portales, one on the north and one on the west, envelop the home. Take a stroll down the property’s flagstone walkway and enjoy the tall aspen trees, fruit trees and native plants and vines. There’s a vegetable garden in the shady aspen grove. A detached garage could be converted into a studio.


List Price: $975,000 Contact: Gavin Sayers, 505-690-3070, Santa Fe Properties,


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509 Abeyta Street

1306 Old Pecos Trail Built in the 1930s and located up a private driveway on Old Pecos Trail, this home has been lovingly restored. Two courtyards, one with a traditional kiva fireplace, surround the completely walled home and offer quiet, relaxing spaces in which to enjoy the outdoors. Inside the two-bedroom, two-bathroom residence are wood and tile floors; a spacious kitchen; and living and dining rooms. A finished basement with natural light could be converted into a media, hobby, or storage room. Near the main home but detached from it is a private two-bedroom, two-bathroom guesthouse with a living room, fireplace and full kitchen. Close proximity to downtown helps make this property an ideal spot.


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318 E Coronado John Gaw Meem designed this recently remodeled threebedroom, three-bathroom Santa Fe home in 1929. The kitchen has all-new appliances, custom cabinets, Carrara marble countertops, and a breakfast nook that opens to the kitchen. The living room has high ceilings with beams, original hardwood flooring and a fireplace. Walk out a living room door to a small porch. The master suite’s bathroom has a steam shower, marble countertops, and dual vanities. Outdoor spaces also have been thoughtfully upgraded. Two gracious portales, one in front and one in back, overlook ponderosa pines, lavender and butterfly bushes, and other native plants. The property has a two-car detached garage as well as city water and a private well.

List Price: $1.275 million Contact: Paige Maxwell, 505-660-4141, Sotheby’s International Realty,,


List Price: $745,000 Bodelson Spier Team, 505-660-4442, Santa Fe Properties,


2049 Paseo Primero

Close to Ski Santa Fe and to the galleries, businesses, and restaurants in the downtown area, this home offers peace and quiet on a dead-end road where there are few signs of cars. Situated on nearly two acres of land on a county-maintained road, the three-bedroom, two-bathroom residence has the master bedroom on one side of the home and two bedrooms, a storage room, a laundry room, and a bathroom on the other side. Vigas and beams, custom cabinetry, and wood floors in the great room and kitchen add elegance and warmth. Watch magical sunsets with family and friends from two spacious decks. Hiking trails are easy to access since the property is near the Santa Fe National Forest.

List Price: $447,000 Contact: Clara Dougherty, 505-989-7741, Dougherty Real Estate, february/march 2016

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Full Bloom Full Bloom is a boutique for today’s woman’s casual lifestyle. We believe fashion should be flattering, comfortable, and versatile. Johnny Was, NYDY, Comfy, and Komarov are just some of the lines we offer. New merchandise arrives weekly. Open 7 days. 70 West Marcy St (one block off the plaza), 505-988-9648

The Golden Eye 22kt gold granulated Stack-up consisting of the Venetian Wave Band, sapphire and diamond Giovana Ring, ARA ruby Memory Band, and diamond Zig Zag Band. Precious gems and high karat gold like you’ve never seen before, hand wrought in the spirit of nature and antiquity… at The Golden Eye, passionate purveyors of functional opulence. 115 Don Gaspar Ave, 505-984-0040, 800-784-0038

John Rippel U.S.A. Hand-cobbled sugilite set in sterling silver belt buckle by John Rippel on hand-stitched crocodile strap. Exquisite jewelry in 22 kt and 18 kt gold with precious gemstones by Valerie Naifeh. Come in today to see these colorful collections. We are located at 111 Old Santa Fe Trail, between San Francisco and Water streets, just outside the La Fonda hotel. 111 Old Santa Fe Trl, 505-986-9115


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Turquoise Butterfly A Gallery Different: Give and get something different and one of a kind. Our New Mexican jewelry artist visualizes each stone and draws his designs by hand. This azurite and malachite pendant is a first class statement piece that is balanced with the slider for comfortable wear. Get something no one else has for a difference in your life! 149 E. Alameda, 505-982-9277,

Get more of the city you love...

1893 Tucson Adobe $889,000 In the heart of downtown’s Barrio Libre.

Saguaro rib ceilings. Walls nearly two feet thick. Three fountains. Spiral stairs. Guest studio.

At age 122, a good home looking for its third family.

1 year, 6 issues only $14.95 subscriptions

818-286-3162 • 520.977.6272 •





Alexandra Stevens Fine Art Gallery Juan Dell, Shepherd Girl, bronze, 60" H Art celebrating February as the month of love has become an annual event for Alexandra Stevens Fine Art, and this year is no exception. An All Gallery Show Filled with “Heartfelt Expressions” showcases the gallery’s established artists such as Juan Dell, Phil Epp, Katrina Howarth, G.E. Griffith, Adrienne Kleiman, Walker Moore, E. Melinda Morrison, Jody Rigsby, Jeannine Young, Victoria Taylor-Gore, Ken Smith, Ruth Valerio, Tod & Jeanne Steele and Peggy McGivern. Opening night, Saturday, February 13, 5:30–7 pm. The show runs through February 28th. 820 Canyon Rd, 505-988-1311

Joe Wade Fine Art John Oteri, Searchers, watercolor on paper, 5.5 x 22.25" Joe Wade Fine Art, Santa Fe’s premier art gallery since 1971, offers an extensive collection of emerging, established, and acclaimed artists’ work. The gallery, located one block south of the historic Santa Fe Plaza, in El Centro, showcases a varied selection of original paintings and bronze sculptures year-round. Open Monday–Saturday 10 am–5 pm and Sunday 10 am–4 pm. 102 E Water St, 505-988-2727 february/march 2016

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Chocolate + Cashmere Diamonds may be a girl’s best friend, but chocolate and cashmere are pretty chummy with the ladies, too! At Chocolate + Cashmere, a newish shop on Palace Avenue, both luxuries are stylishly celebrated, making it worth a visit anytime you want to spoil someone special (or yourself). This is the second location for a concept that originated in Taos in 2012; when owner Haleigh Palmer wanted to expand into the Santa Fe market, she found a location just steps from the Plaza. Part confectionery shop, part clothing store, with interiors by local artist Kristin Bortles, C+C offers candies from local chocolatiers—Taos’s Linda Durante and Albuquerque’s La Joliesse—and cashmere garments from New Mexico and elsewhere. The edibles change seasonally and are “da bomb” (after all, the historic building once housed Oppenheimer’s office). Don’t miss the raspberry-ancho chile goat cheese or lemon crème truffles, or the duck fat caramels; and nothing beats the cold like a softly fuzzy hat, scarf, gloves, or leg warmers. Men’s sweaters join the mix this winter, so pad your Valentine’s tummy and swaddle them in cashmere to show the love.—John Vollertsen Chocolate + Cashmere, 109 E Palace, 56

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spoiler alert


artistically, edibly O'Keeffe

Blue Poppies: trout roe and chipotle aioli on Peruvian blue potato chips.


A CARTOON THAT’S BEEN MAKING THE ROUNDS shows a waiter inquiring of a couple he is serving, “Is everything all right with your dinner? I noticed you haven’t photographed your food yet!” In this age of Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter, it can be a struggle to eat while it’s hot if you have to wait for the “photo shoots” to finish. I am just as guilty as my friends; it is fun to share snaps of some of the delicious food my career allows me to enjoy. I often chuckle to myself that political or spiritual postings rarely get a “like” or response; put up a photo of eggs benedict at brunch, though, and the world chimes in. At Eloisa, in the new Drury Hotel, a special tasting menu and dining event simply called the O’Keeffe Table seems built for exactly this type of social media sharing: it’s gimmicky and clever and extremely photogenic. Part chef’s table, part wine tasting, part history lesson, part art class, the evening begins with a mini-tour of some of the elements represented in O’Keeffe’s life—including ingredients she grew in her Abiquiú garden (lavender, apricots, chiles, and sage) and references to her painting and imagery style. These items are arranged on a large platter in the middle of the table on our arrival as a sort of show-and-tell. Bound books full of photos and paintings of O’Keeffe and her world are presented to me and my guests. Chef John Sedlar uses them as a prop and addresses the table with enthusiasm and wit; he is a consummate showman and clearly knows his stuff. The staff wets our whistles with an Eloisa Cocktail: a tasty blend of sparkling cava and apricot liqueur. The procession of dishes that follow, each described by our affable chef and having an O’Keeffe hook, are served on Plexiglas tiles covering images of Ms. Georgia in various periods of her life. The effect is a witty one; it’s as if she is observing your meal from the great beyond. Dishes are simply dressed, as one imagines O’Keeffe would have prepared them. They are occasionally gussied up by master chef Sedlar and named for some of the artist’s famous paintings. A starter called Blue Poppies is comprised of Peruvian blue potato crisps, trout roe, and a drizzle of zippy chipotle aioli—delish! The Lake George salad combines red and golden beets, radish, Blue Lake green beans, and watercress; one can easily imagine O’Keeffe gathering the vegetables after a long day of painting. For the fish course, entitled Salmon Painted Desert, the fish is wood-grilled and sided with cheesy whipped potatoes enrobed in grilled eggplant ribbons—a table favorite. The Black Mesa lamb chop with ratatouille and rich red pepper

Above: Eloisa's social dining experience known as the O'Keeffe Table includes not only a Georgia O'Keeffe–inspired tasting menu, but also a look at photo albums, artwork, artifacts, and other historical items illustrating the painter's life.

Right: Lake George Salad with fire-roasted beets, green beans, and radishes, dressed in toasted sesame vinaigrette and paired here with an amaretto sour. february/march 2016

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demiglace is so delicious I could knock off two more chops. The Ghost Ranch dessert comprises half a pear braised in its own juices, with spiced cookie, chicory chocolate, and honey fluff (I secretly wondered what the straightforward O’Keeffe would think of the foam and fluff trend in restaurants.) Each course is expertly paired with an eclectic mix of wines and described by the knowledgeable staff. Not a chardonnay enthusiast, I am impressed with an Argentinean Catalpa chardonnay for its subtlety and toned-down buttery-ness; I’m a fan. The whole evening is altogether delicious fun. Chef and owner John Sedlar grew up in Santa Fe and discovered his zest for cooking under the tutelage of his grandmother, Eloisa. He also has a close connection to the Georgia O’Keeffe legacy; his great-aunt Jeronima Newsom was O’Keeffe’s cook and part-time chauffeur for many years. It is from this connection he draws much of his inspiration and culinary concepts. His resume has taken him to big cities like L.A. and San Francisco, and into a variety of restaurants, all bearing some connection to his homeland. The restaurant setting at Eloisa is dramatic, stylishly sleek, and modern. There are touches of Southwest design here and there, with artistic images projected on a wall area (but, blissfully, nary a Kokopelli in sight). Finding a niche in the crowded Santa Fe restaurant scene requires creativity and chutzpah. With the help of the Mother of American Modernism, Chef Sedlar has added some welcomed theatricality and artistry to the world of dining out. I think Georgia would be pleased. —John Vollertsen

Eloisa's aesthetic is influenced by the personal and artistic style of Georgia O'Keeffe; Chef John Sedlar's great-aunt, Jeronima Newsom, was the artist's longtime cook.

Sweetwater Harvest Kitchen

Eloisa, 228 E Palace,

adding spice to the evening with Thai Night THERE IS NOTHING MORE EXCITING for a food writer than to discover a new and extraordinary dining experience. Although Santa Fe boasts more than 200 restaurants in a town with only 70,000 full-time residents, there are times when we yearn for something different—something off the charts and out of the norm. Sweetwater Harvest Kitchen opened in 2012 and has been reviewed and celebrated in these very pages for its unique and eclectic breakfast and lunch menus, keeping its concept fresh by constantly tweaking its theme, much to the delight of its fans. What started as a special weekly Asian-themed dinner menu in 2013 has expanded to Wednesdays, Thursdays and Fridays; and a dinner I enjoyed late last fall was so outstanding I could eat it seven nights a week. Oh joy, oh rapture!

“[Chef Nath’s] creativity and nuanced palate raise the bar on local Thai, Vietnamese, and pan-Asian offerings.”

Vietnamese rice crêpe served with Thai herbs, bean sprouts, and tamarind-peanut sauce. An almondbased sauce is also available for patrons with peanut allergies. 58

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The usual Sweetwater menu is skillfully controlled by owners Fiona Wong and Soma Franks, but the culinary star behind Thai Night is Chef Nou Kimnath. Her creativity and nuanced palate raise the bar on local Thai, Vietnamese, and pan-Asian offerings. Cambodian-born and versed in all ingredients that hail from that part of the world, Chef Nath (as she is known around town) breathes new, luscious life into many dishes you have had before: pad thai, tom yum, pho, lettuce wraps, rice crêpes, etc. My foodie friends and I settle in to the comfortable dining room on a crisp autumn night. The loft setting reminds me of a cozy ski lodge—the perfect hideaway for the season. We have an 8-year-old (with a very sophisticated palate) in tow; although plugged into his iPad throughout, he keeps giving the thumbs up for each dish he tastes. My chef friend, who has extremely discerning taste buds, is quickly seduced (as we all are). The menu offers many of the requisites you expect, along with a few


Thai Night's dessert offerings include an offbeat vegan chocolate-avocado mousse with fresh berries.

unfamiliar dishes, but you have never tasted the likes of this before! Lettuce wraps appear on menus all over town, but at Sweetwater, they are composed of New Mexico–based Kyzer Farms pork with the meat left nicely textured (I hate it when it looks like cat food, as it often does), and with a zippy sweet-and-spicy balance. On many dishes, I notice that there is not a lot of fish sauce at play, and that really allows each item to taste distinctively and lusciously different; fish sauce abuse can make everything taste the same. Vietnamese rice paper rolls are light and appropriately crunchy, served with the requisite tamarind-peanut sauce—delish! Two dishes were new to us and especially yummy. A Burmese tea leaf salad is an exotic blend of fermented green tea, kale, peanuts, chick peas, and Napa cabbage; so unusual and earthy—wow! A Cambodian mango salad done in the style of a green papaya salad is made tart with grapefruit and tomatoes, with cashew crunch and lime fish sauce dressing, welcomed here to even out the sweet and salty notes. Even a classic tom yum soup seems to be packed extra-full of flavor (is it the blue ginger?); truly, mouthwateringly delicious. Noah, our child critic, loves the simplicity of the sautéed rainbow trout with fresh green mango and gives it two thumbs up; we all concur. A seafood tom yum—rich lemongrass and kaffir lime leaf broth fired with lots of jalapeños

and loaded with rockfish, black mussels, and shrimp—knocks our socks off. Another Vietnamese rice crêpe is bulging with plump shrimp, herbs, and bean sprouts, and I note that the peanut sauce topping can be substituted with an almond-based version; a lovely touch for peanut-allergic diners. In fact, all over the menu, dietary restrictions are easily honored without hitting us over the head with them. At this point in the meal I announce that if the desserts are as good as the meal has been so far, I will be writing a four-star review. Bingo. In comes banana cream pie with cinnamon caramel sauce; carrot cake; a chai-spiced flan—all scrumptious. Even an odd vegan chocolate avocado mousse wins kudos for originality. There is a creative wine, sake, and local mead list; a hoppy Rio Grande Desert pilsner and crisp Honig sauvignon blanc paired well with the full-flavored dishes. Junior enjoyed his raspberry lemonade. At the bottom of the menu are three simple words: gather-nourish-inspire. It’s an appropriate invitation, and one I heartily recommend you accept. 2016 is promising to be a delicious year!—JV


Thai Night entrees include (clockwise from top) Vietnamese crêpes, Cambodian mangopomelo salad, Vietnamese rice paper rolls, and rainbow trout with shredded green mango.

Check out all the participants at If kids are a part of your life, keep an eye on for details on family pricing around Santa Fe, starting early in March and going through the middle of April. Many hotels, restaurants, museums, arts and cultural events, tours, and workshops will be promoting special admission prices (some free) to encourage locals and visitors to bring the whole family to our fun-loving town. This Valentine’s Day, send a token of your love across the street, across town, across the aisle, or across the ocean. Maybe that love token takes the form of a box of chocolates; a donation to the Santa Fe Food Depot ( or to your favorite charity; or maybe it’s a simple helping hand—but as the song goes, “what the world needs now is love.” Cupid can use all the help you can give.—JV

AROUND VALENTINE’S DAY, we think about our great loves in all forms—whether it’s a sweetheart, a love of food (chocolate!), a love of wine (Champagne!), a love of life—even, these days, a love of country. Despite all the turbulence in the world, the concept of love is pretty powerful. At first thought, it seems almost cruel that this celebration of the amorous comes during the coldest month of year. On the other hand, perhaps that encourages us to snuggle up; we’re urged to share confections, dine out, and not worry about our weight (after all, it’s sweater season!) In late February, we can continue the indulging and partake in the great deals offered during Restaurant Week (February 21–28). Most of your old favorite restaurants—and some new ones, too—offer special prices on meals to persuade diners to turn their noses up at the winter weather and get out to eat.

Sweetwater Harvest Kitchen, 1512 Pacheco, Building B,

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taste of the town


featured listing

113 Washington, 505-988-3236

Offering Southwestern cuisine with strong regional Latin influences. The recently redesigned dining destination celebrates the creative spirit of Santa Fe with a new chic, sophisticated design that complements the restaurant’s legendary architecture. The new Anasazi Lounge offers additional bar seating with the new Para Picar menu as well as a Tequila Table featuring a Ceviche menu and specialty tequilas. Live entertainment Saturday evenings with Jesus Bas. Private dining also available.

Amaya Restaurant

1501 Paseo de Peralta, 505-955-7805 Amaya at Hotel Santa Fe. Mixing classic technique, contemporary flair, and fresh seasonal ingredients, Chef Walter Dominguez creates innovative dishes sure to please any palate. Amaya highlights local pueblo and Northern New Mexican influences, as well as regional foods from around the U.S. Enjoy our newly renovated open air dining room, with lovely garden views.


905 S St Francis, 505-699-2243

The true taste of Philadelphia comes to Santa Fe at Bambini’s, conveniently located in front of Ski Tech close to St Francis and Cerrillos. Our cheese steaks and hoagies are 100% authentic and our bread is straight from Philly. Our passion for healthy and carefully crafted food is in each our delicious sandwiches which includes various meats and vegetarian options. All of our ingredients are carefully selected to achieve the greatest possible quality, while staying true to the food traditions of Philadelphia. Furthermore, we are all HEALTHY people and take great pride in serving our patrons high quality, healthy foods. We look forward to the opportunity to serve you!!

Luminaria Restaurant

featured listing

Anasazi Restaurant, Bar & Lounge

Inn and Spa at Loretto, 211 Old Santa Fe Trail, 800-727-5531, 505-984-7915 Wine Spectator award recipient Luminaria Restaurant and Patio continues to be a popular spot for locals and tourists alike. Enjoy the seasonal creations of award-winning Executive Chef Marc Quiñones. Open for breakfast, lunch, dinner, and Sunday brunch. Early evening prix-fixe dinner from 5–6:30 pm, offering three courses for $34.

Cowgirl BBQ

319 S Guadalupe, 505-982-2565

Since 1993, the Cowgirl has been serving up great BBQ and exuberant nightlife. A favorite with both visitors and locals, we feature mesquite-smoked BBQ meats, great steaks, and delicious vegetarian options along with a wide array of regional American dishes, ranging from New Mexican specialties to Tex-Mex, CajunCreole, and Caribbean. Nightly entertainment features Americana, blues, and touring bands, adding up to the best small club for music on this side of Austin. Check out our new taproom for the best craft beer selection in town! Open seven days a week: 11 am–11 pm during the week and to midnight on the weekends. Bar open until 1 am Friday and Saturday.

The Compound Restaurant

300 Years of Romance, Intrigue & History. Your stay becomes extraordinary at the Hilton Santa Fe Historic Plaza. Originally the hacienda of the influential Ortiz Family who settled in Santa Fe in 1694, we offer luxury guestrooms, private casitas and thoughtful touches for the leisure and business traveler alike. For the start of the day, lunch, or a lite dinner El Cañon offers fabulous fare morning, noon & night. Just steps from Santa Fe’s Historic Plaza with fine art galleries, museums and shopping—a unique experience in a unique destination.

open nightly for lite dining and spirits

100 Sandoval St., Santa Fe, NM 87501 | 800-336-3676 | 60

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653 Canyon, 505-982-4353

Selected as one of the nation’s finest restaurants and highly regarded for its award-winning seasonal American cuisine, The Compound Restaurant has been a Santa Fe institution since the 1960s. Chef Mark Kiffin, James Beard Award–winning “Best Chef of the Southwest 2005,” has revived this elegant Santa Fe landmark restaurant with a sophisticated menu, an award-winning wine list, and incomparable private dining and special events. Beautiful outdoor patios and private dining available for up to 250 guests. Lunch is served noon–2 pm Monday through Saturday; dinner is served nightly from 6 pm; bar opens 5 pm. Reservations are recommended.

El Mesón

213 Washington, 505-983-6756

A native of Madrid, Spain, chef/owner David Huertas has been delighting customers since 1997 with classic recipes and specialties of his homeland. The paella is classic and legendary—served straight from the flame to your table in black iron pans; the saffron-infused rice is perfectly cooked and heaped with chicken, chorizo, seafood, and more. The house-made sangria is from a generations-old recipe with a splash of brandy. The ¡Chispa! tapas bar offers a fine array of tapas. Full bar includes a distinguished Spanish wine list and special sherries and liqueurs imported from a country full of passion and tradition. Musical entertainment and dancing. Dinner is served Tuesday–Saturday 5–11 pm.

Gabriel’s Restaurant

4 Banana Ln, 505-455-7000,

Located five minutes north of the Opera on US 285, savor the cuisine of the Southwest and Old Mexico at the eatery Zagat labels “one of America’s top restaurants, a true Mexican classic, rated excellent in all categories.” Enjoy the spacious outdoor patio with spectacular mountain views. Inside, thick adobe walls and kiva fireplaces create a cozy romantic atmosphere. Featuring guacamole made at your table, renowned margaritas, handmade corn tortillas and seasonal dinner specials. Reservations recommended. New weekend brunch. Open daily 11:30–9:30 pm.

La Casa Sena

125 E Palace, 505-988-9232,

La Casa Sena is located in downtown Santa Fe in the historic Sena Plaza. We feature New American West cuisine, an award-winning wine list, and a spectacular patio. We are committed to using fresh, local, and seasonal ingredients whenever possible. La Casa Sena has been one of Santa Fe’s most popular restaurants for more than 30 years. Our bar, La Cantina, is open for lunch and dinner.Let La Cantina’s singing waitstaff entertain you nightly with the best of Broadway, jazz, and much more. Open daily 11 am until close. Our popular wine shop adjacent to the restaurant features a large selection of fine wines and is open Monday–Saturday 11 am–6 pm, Sunday noon–5 pm.

Maria’s New Mexican Kitchen 555 W Cordova, 505-983-7929

Maria’s now uses only 100-percent agave tequila in every one of the more than 200 hand-poured, hand-shaken margaritas served—no wonder Maria’s has been chosen “Santa Fe’s Best Margarita” for the 16th consecutive year. Maria’s uses no sugar or mixes—totally pure and natural. A Santa Fe tradition since 1950, Maria’s specializes in authentic, home-style, Northern New Mexico cuisine, plus steaks, burgers, and fajitas. You can watch your flour tortillas being rolled out and cooked by hand. Open Monday–Sunday from 11 am until close. Reservations are strongly suggested.

Midtown Bistro

901 W San Mateo, Ste A, 505-820-3121

Midtown Bistro, located in the “heart” of Santa Fe, and only a short jaunt from the Plaza, features local cuisine with an international flair. Open daily. Guests enjoy dining indoors or on our patio among native flora, which creates a magnificent ambience while dining on an array of fresh meats, seafood, pastas, and much more. Diners can enjoy a wide selection of wine and beer. Lunch Monday–Saturday 11 am–2:30 pm; dinner Monday–Saturday 5–9 pm; Sunday brunch 11 am–3 pm.

The Ranch House

2571 Cristo’s Road, 505-424-8900

Chef Josh Baum and his wife, Ann Gordon, have built a new home for Josh’s famous barbecue. This cozy restaurant on the south side feels as if you stepped into a historic Santa Fe home. There are two dining rooms, two outdoor dining areas, and a full bar with signature cocktails and eight beers on tap. In addition to the same great barbecue, the greatly expanded menu includes new salads and appetizers, plus a grill menu with salmon, steaks, and more! The lunch menu includes daily specials. The Ranch House is located on Cerrillos and Cristo’s Road, near Kohl’s. Open Monday–Thursday 11 am–9 pm, Friday and Saturday 11 am–10 pm, Sunday 11 am–9 pm; happy hour 4–6 pm.

Santa Fe’s Oldest Restaurant Welcomes You! This historic diner, in downtown Santa Fe, offers locals and visitors authentic New Mexican cuisine and flavors that span the globe! We’re the home of fine food and the friendliest folks in the southwest!

54 Lincoln Ave., Santa Fe, NM 87501 | 505.982.1664

Rancho de Chimayó

300 Santa Fe County Road 98 on the scenic “High Road to Taos,” 505-984-2100,

Rancho de Chimayó—Celebrating 50 Years! A New Mexico treasure and “A Timeless Tradition,” Rancho de Chimayó is woven into the tapestry of the historic Chimayó Valley. Since 1965, serving world-class, authentic New Mexican cuisine from recipes passed down for generations, Rancho de Chimayó is like coming home. Come celebrate with us! Open daily from 11:30 am to 9 pm. November thru April open 11:30 am to 8:30 pm, closed Mondays. Breakfast served weekends. Shop our online store. february/march 2016

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Plaza Café

54 Lincoln Ave, 505-982-1664 The famous Plaza Café, on the historic Santa Fe Plaza, has been serving locals and visitors alike for over 110 years! We are Santa Fe’s oldest restaurant and serve authentic New Mexican cuisines and flavors that span the globe for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. We are the home of fine food and the friendliest folks in town! Open daily from 7 am to 9 pm, we hope you come visit us for a bite to eat!


231 Washington, 505-984-1788,


Centrally located in Santa Fe’s distinguished Downtown district, this charming Southwestern bistro, situated in the historic Padre Gallegos House, offers our guests the classic Santa Fe backdrop. Step into the pristine experience Santacafé has been consistently providing for more than 25 years. New American cuisine is tweaked in a Southwestern context, and the food is simply and elegantly presented. Frequented by the famous and infamous, the Santacafé patio offers some of the best people watching in town! During high season, our courtyard, protected by a sun canopy, becomes one of the most coveted locales in Santa Fe. Open daily for lunch and dinner. For specials, photos, video walk-through, and menus, please visit our Facebook page: Santacafé Restaurant Bar. Open all holidays.


Every Saturday and Sunday El Museo Cultural Winter Market. A weekly market offering folk and tribal art, antiques, jewelry, and much more. Held each Saturday and Sunday across the tracks from the Farmers Market. Free, 8 am–3 pm, El Museo Cultural de Santa Fe, 555 Camino de la Familia, 505-250-8969, Every Sunday Railyard Artisan Market. Local art, photography, jewelry, ceramics, glasswork, textiles, food, live music, and more every Sunday in the Railyard. 10 am–4 pm, Santa Fe Farmers Market Pavilion, 1607 Paseo de Peralta, 505-983-4098,

one of the world’s most famous and treasured books: Shakespeare’s First Folio, on tour from the Folger Shakespeare Library. 505-476-1144, February 11 BalletBoyz. The innovative London-based men’s ballet troupe’s 2016 tour finds them on the Lensic stage for performances of the original works The Murmuring, choreographed by Alexander Whitley, and Mesmerics, choreographed by Christopher Wheeldon. $20–$55, 7 pm, Lensic Performing Arts Center, 211 W San Francisco, February 12 The Second City Touring Company. Chicago’s storied improv troupe—boasting such alumni as Dan Aykroyd, Tina Fey, and Stephen Colbert—riffs on love, loss, and ladies’ night in this pre-Valentine’s Day comedy spectacular. $32–$47, 7:30 pm, Lensic Performing Arts Center, 211 W San Francisco, 505-988-1234,, February 14 The Santa Fe Symphony Presents Mozart, Weber, and Dvorák. Guest conductor Guillermo Figueroa leads the Symphony in a Valentine’s Day performance of Weber’s Overture to Der Freischütz, Dvorák’s Symphony No. 8, and Mozart’s Violin Concerto No. 5, featuring violinist Michael Ludwig. $23–$80, 4 pm, Lensic Performing Arts Center, 211 W San Francisco, 505-983-1414, v

February February 4 An Evening with Paula Poundstone. Famous for her long and prolific career, regular panel appearances on NPR’s Wait Wait...Don’t Tell Me, and a turn in Pixar’s recent Inside Out, Paula Poundstone brings her legendary stand-up to downtown Santa Fe. $36–$46, 7:30 pm, Lensic Performing Arts Center, 211 W San Francisco, February 5–28 First Folio! The Book that Gave Us Shakespeare. The New Mexico Museum of Art will be the only venue statewide for an original edition of 62

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February 20 Cameron Carpenter and the International Touring Organ. Performance Santa Fe presents maverick organist Cameron Carpenter as he brings his International Touring Organ, a colossal digital instrument of his own invention, to Santa Fe for an evening of music from classical to current. $27–$100,

7:30 pm, Lensic Performing Arts Center, 211 W San Francisco, 505-984-8759, February 21–28 Santa Fe Restaurant Week. An eight-day celebration of local and international cuisine, featuring value-priced dinners and lunches at participating restaurants. Multiple-course, prix-fixe dinners are offered in four categories, and some restaurants will also offer prix-fixe Restaurant Week lunches. 505-847-3333, February 26–March 6 Polaroid Stories. Greer Garson Theatre at the Santa Fe University of Art and Design presents Polaroid Stories, Naomi Iizuka’s Ovidinspired lyrical play about street kids exchanging tall—and otherwise—tales in a decaying urban world. $5–$15, February 26–28 and March 4–6, 7 pm, 505-473-6511,,

March Every Saturday Santa Fe Artists Market. Enjoy fine art and crafts from local artists in this weekly juried market. Discover pottery, jewelry, paintings, photography, sculpture, furniture, textiles, and more. 8 am–1 pm, by the Railyard water tower, Alcaldesa and Chili Line Lane, March 2 TAO: Seventeen Samurai. An explosively energetic display of contemporary taiko drum compositions, acrobatics, flashy costuming, and dance, celebrating Japanese culture both ancient and modern. $20–$55, 7 pm, Lensic Performing Arts Center, 211 W San Francisco, 505-988-1234, March 4 Claudia Schmidt. An evening

with prolific folk singer-guitarist Claudia Schmidt, known for her appearances on A Prairie Home Companion. $20, 7:30 pm, GiG Performance Space, 1808 Second St, March 5–6 The Lark Ascending. Santa Fe Pro Musica presents Ralph Vaughan Williams’ classic tone poem The Lark Ascending, featuring violinist Colin Jacobsen; Prokofiev’s Violin Concerto No. 2 in G Minor, Op. 63; and Haydn’s Drum Roll Symphony No. 103 in E Flat Major. 505-988-4640, March 19 & 20 Into the Light. A light-filled multimedia musical event presented by the Taos Chamber Music Group, with renditions of Ken Benshoof’s In Shadow Light, Andrew Norman’s Light Screens, and Franz Schubert’s String Trio in B-flat, D. 47, plus an exhibition of work by audiovisual artist Sasha vom Dorp. $22; 5 pm; Arthur Bell Auditorium at the Harwood Museum of Art; 238 Ledoux, Taos; March 20 The Santa Fe Symphony presents Brahms & Stravinsky. Guest conductor Oriol Sans conducts the Symphony as they perform Stravinsky’s Suite from Pulcinella and Brahms’s Serenade No. 1. $23–$80, 4 pm, Lensic Performing Arts Center, 211 W San Francisco, 505-983-1414, March 26 David Crosby. The legendary singer-songwriter— cofounder of the seminal folk-rock bands the Byrds and Crosby, Stills, & Nash—takes the Lensic stage for a solo concert. $44–$84, 7:30 pm, Lensic Performing Arts Center, 211 W San Francisco,,

ethnographic art: american indian, pre-columbian & tribal art May 2016 | Dallas | Live & online

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E X PLO R AT I O N S MAY 24–29, 2016

The Pueblo Revolt

Visit historic sites associated with the Pueblo Revolt of 1680—and meet contemporary Pueblo artists whose work is inspired by the revolt Scholars: Charles King (King Galleries) Marit Munson, Ph.D.

JULY 23–29, 2016

POSTMASTER: Send all UAA to CFS. NON-POSTAL AND MILITARY FACILITIES: send address corrections to Santa Fean, P.O. Box 16946, North Hollywood, CA 91615-6946. Subscription Customer Service: Santa Fean, P.O. Box 16946, North Hollywood, CA 91615-6946, Phone 818-286-3165, fax 800-869-0040,, Monday–Friday, 7 am –5 pm PST.

A Thousand Years of Taos History From the Sangre de Cristo Mountains to the Rio Grande Gorge, explore Tiwa, Tewa, and colonial-era sites Scholars: Porter Swentzell, M.A. (Santa Clara) Severin Fowles, Ph.D. | Cortez, CO | 800.422.8975, ext. 457 february/march 2016

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Copyright 2016. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is prohibited. Santa Fean (ISSN 1094-1487 & USPS # 0018-866), Volume 44, Number 1, February/March 2016. Santa Fean is published bimonthly by Bella Media, LLC, at Pacheco Park, 1512 Pacheco St, Ste D-105, Santa Fe, NM 87505, USA, Phone (505) 983-1444. © Copyright 2016 by Bella Media, LLC. All rights reserved. CPM # 40065056. Basic annual subscription rate is $14.95. Annual subscription rates for Canada and Mexico is $24.95; other international countries $39.95. U.S. single-copy price is $4.95. Back issues are $6.95 each. Periodicals postage paid at Santa Fe, NM and additional mailing offices.

| D AY T R I P |

Los Ranchos de Albuquerque rural flavor in the big city


Los Ranchos de Albuquerque is quite literally another side of New Mexico's biggest city. Nestled along the eastern bank of the Rio Grande, this lush little hamlet is covered with grass and cottonwood trees. Horse stables abound. For those more interested in horsepower than horses, the Unser Racing Museum displays some of the fastest cars on the planet. Named for the famed racing family, the museum covers the early history of speedsters to the modern day. The flat and well-irrigated grounds of Los Ranchos are also ideal for growing grapes; wine tasting is available at Casa Rondeùa. This Iberian/ Moorish estate offers tours and live music weekly. It's the lavender, however, that gives Los Ranchos its signature smell and look. Every July, the Grower's Market in the village hosts a Lavender and Garlic Festival. Vendors have fresh bouquets on sale and tips on the best ways to enjoy both plants. The rest of the year, fans of the purple herb can get their fill at Los Poblanos Historic Inn & Organic Farm. The farm uses the 25 acres of lavender that surround it to produce its signature lavender lotions and washes.—Jason Strykowski

See vehicles and trophies from all eras, plus interactive exhibits and a racing simulator, at the Unser Racing Museum.

Celebrations like the Lavender and Garlic Festival highlight the richly fertile land surrounding Los Ranchos de Albuquerque. 64

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Jane Filer Between Worlds, acrylic on canvas, 38" x 50"

Sean Wimberly Colors of Fall, acrylic on canvas, 60" x 72"





A Magical Place! (505) 660-5966