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DOUGLAS MERRIAM

french connections

The folks who brought us tasty Max’s, in the Guadalupe district, are spreading their considerable culinary wings downtown with the stylishly casual Tomme. Named for a cheese that hails from the mountain regions of France, this laid-back kid sister to the more serious Max’s boasts the same reverence for quality ingredients and the same clever cuisine. More pocket-friendly—yet certainly no poor relation—Tomme tempts the palate with classic bistro dishes like steak frites, steaming bowls of mussels, pan-seared sole with brown butter, and (the stunner pictured here) an airy gougère stuffed with slow-braised beef short ribs and sided with apricot gremolata. There’s a killer Wagyu burger on a house-made bun, fried chicken with brown gravy and bacon-braised greens, and so much more . . . I could write a tome!—John Vollertsen Tomme, 229 Galisteo, 505-820-2253

december 2011 /january 2012

santa fean

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SANTA FEAN - DEC11/JAN12  
SANTA FEAN - DEC11/JAN12  

SANTA FEAN - DEC11/JAN12