Issuu on Google+

rac

CARVOEIRO The Essential Guide

Sandra Frith


Contents Introduction Weather History Holidays and festivals Getting to Carvoeiro from Faro airport Transport Places to visit Beaches Walks Golf courses Other sports Things to do Food and drink Shops Essentials Health hazards Foreign and local newspapers and magazines Speak a little Portuguese! Further reading Days out Eating and drinking Where to stay Maps

2 2 3 4 5 7 9 10 11 12 12 13 15 16 19 21 22 23 25 27 30 42 43

Text and maps © Sandra Frith 2013 Photos © Neil Murfin and Sandra Frith 2013 Whilst every effort has been made to ensure the information in this booklet is correct, there may be some cases where things have changed since the time of writing. I shall be pleased to make the necessary amendments in future editions of the booklet.

1 Text and maps © Sandra Frith 2013

Photos © Neil Murfin and Sandra Frith 2013


Introduction

CARVOEIRO

Carvoeiro (pronounced ‘carv-way-roo’) is a small town in the Western Central Algarve, with a resident population of just under 3000. Its coast is on the Atlantic Ocean and it was a fishing village until the tourist boom, which began in the 1960s and really took off in the 1980s, when it became a popular place for northern Europeans and people from other parts of Portugal to holiday in. The town has retained a lot more of its charm than many of the other resorts on the Algarve. The white buildings built on the hills around the town centre have remained low-rise and in keeping with the traditional buildings of the area. The town is built around the main square and the roads leading off it, where the majority of restaurants and bars are (particularly Estrada do Farol (or ‘Restaurant Hill’, as it is sometimes referred to), Rua do Barranco (the ‘out road’), Rua dos Pescadores (the ‘in road’), Estrada do Monte Paraíso and Rampa da N. Sra. da Encarnação). The town square has live music in the evenings throughout the summer. There is also live music on some evenings on Rua do Barranco. Although the main tourist season is from April to October and many of the restaurants close during the winter months, tourists and winter residents stay in the town between November and March and there will be several restaurants open. For useful information look at the Carvoeiro websites: www.carvoeiro.com or www.carvoeirouncovered.com or the Algarve Tourism Board website: www.visitalgarve.pt (where there are downloadable pdfs of maps, booklets and the monthly ‘what’s on’ guide). View webcams showing the town square at: www.cam1.carvoeiro.com and www.cam2.carvoeiro.com

View from Rampa da N. Sra. da Encarnação showing the town square, Rua do Barranco (straight ahead to the right of Café Matabixo), Rua dos Pescadores (straight ahead to the left of Café Matabixo) and Estrada do Farol (the turning on the right opposite Café Matabixo)

Live music in the town square

Weather The weather is at its best in May, June, September and October. July and August are hot, sunny and dry, but temperatures can be very high. Remember to apply sun cream regularly. The rest of the year the temperatures are also good, but there is more likelihood of rain. The western area of the Algarve is known as the barlavento, meaning ‘windward’ and some parts can be very windy, especially the further west you go. The sea can also be colder and rougher than the Mediterranean. Average temperatures: Jan 15°C (59°F) chance of rain Jul 35°C (95°F) sunny Feb 16°C (61°F) chance of rain Aug 37°C (99°F) sunny Mar 18°C (64°F) chance of rain Sep 33°C (91°F) sunny Apr 21°C (70°F) chance of rain Oct 28°C (82°F) sunny May 24°C (75°F) sunny Nov 19°C (66°F) chance of rain Jun 30°C (86°F) sunny Dec 17°C (63°F) chance of rain 2 Text and maps © Sandra Frith 2013

Photos © Neil Murfin and Sandra Frith 2013


History There is evidence that there was a Roman settlement and a navy in what is now the town of Carvoeiro. The name Carvoeiro is believed to come from the mediaeval-Islamic word caboiere, which meant ‘a hamlet of fishermen’. It has been a fishing village for many centuries. Carvoeiro was attacked many times in the past by both pirates and enemy navies. In 1544 there was a notable battle off the coast between a fleet of Portuguese ships and a fleet led by a Turkish Barbary Pirate in which the Turkish fleet was destroyed. In the seventeenth century a fort was built to defend the town. A major earthquake in 1755 destroyed much of Carvoeiro. The town began to change in the 1960s when the first tourists started arriving. A portrait of Carvoeiro at this time is described in the 1965 book Algarve: A Portrait and a Guide by David Wright and Patrick Swift (see Further reading on page 25). At this time there were 700 people living in the village (made up mainly of fishermen, small tradesmen, farmers and landworkers). Many of the young girls were employed in the sardine factory in the village. The main streets were Rua dos Pescadores and Rua do Casino (Rua do Barranco had a stream running down it). To Wright, almost every other house seemed to be a pub with a shop attached (barbers, haberdashery, greengrocers and general stores). The hub of Carvoeiro then was Photo of Colombo’s restaurant menu showing the Manuel’s café, Café Atlantico (now O Pátio Restaurant), described town square and bottom of Estrada do Farol from as ‘the newest and ugliest building in the village’. Near Manuel’s café Rampa da N. Sra. da Encarnação as it was in the days before tourism. For more old photos see was the village working men’s club with a small bar and hall which www.carvoeiro.com/history/oldphotos was used to show films and for dances. A nightclub opened in the late sixties at which musicians such as Cat Stevens and Georgie Fame appeared. It is now the Jailhouse bar. On Rua dos Pescadores there is a wall with beautiful tiles handpainted by Patrick Swift. Carvoeiro became a civil parish (freguesia) of the Municipality of Lagoa in 1985 and a town in 2001. It now has a population made up of many ex-pats from parts of northern Europe and the main income is from tourism rather than from fishing.

3 Text and maps © Sandra Frith 2013

Photos © Neil Murfin and Sandra Frith 2013


Holidays and festivals January New Year’s Day – 1st February/March Carnival is celebrated for a few days before and on Shrove Tuesday. The local children dress up and parade through the town throwing paper and people wear fancy dress. There is a procession of floats, dancing and roast suckling pig in the town square. Volta ao Algarve cycle race – (dates vary) March and April Monchique Sausage Festival – (early March) Good Friday and Easter Sunday – March or April (dates vary: 2014 – 18th April/20th April; 2015 – 3rd April/5th April; 2016 – 25th March/27th March). There is a fair in the town square. Day of the Revolution – 25th April Lagos Jazz Festival – (dates vary) May Labour Day – 1st International Music Festival, Faro (and other towns) – (dates vary) Corpus Christi – (dates vary: 2013 – 30th May; 2016 – 26th May) June and July Corpus Christi – (dates vary: 2014 – 19th June; 2015 – 4th June) International Fair of the Algarve, Fatacil, Lagoa – (first weekend in June) National Day – 10th June Estrada do Farol World Superbike Championships, Autódromo Internacional do Algarve near Portimão – (dates vary) Silves Beer Festival – (dates vary) Algarve Classic Cars event – (July, dates vary) Silves Mediaeval Fair – (late July to early August) August Sardine Festival, Portimão – (dates vary) Feast of the Assumption – 15th Fatacil – mid- to late August – a nine-day agricultural, trade and craft fair near Lagoa. There is also live music. Festival of Nossa Senhora da Encarnação (Our Lady of the Incarnation) – last Sunday (Carvoeiro only). This traditionally saw the local fishing boats being blessed, but nowadays there is a procession in the early evening where the Nossa Senhora da Encarnação statue is carried through the streets of the town by people in ceremonial dress. There are fireworks at midnight. September Festival of Nossa Senhora da Luz (Our Lady of Light – the patron saint of Lagoa) – 8th Flamenco Festival, Lagos – (dates vary) International Horse Riding Circuit Competition, Vilamoura and Portimão – (dates vary) October Commemoration of the creation of the parish – 4th (Carvoeiro only) Republic Day – 5th Portugal Masters, Oceânico Victoria Course, Vilamoura – (dates vary) October Fair, Monchique – (dates vary) November All Saints’ Day – 1st International Film Festival, Portimão – (dates vary) December Restoration of Independence Day – 1st Feast of the Immaculate Conception – 8th Christmas Fair, Carvoeiro town square – (mid-December) Christmas Day – 25th 4 Text and maps © Sandra Frith 2013

Photos © Neil Murfin and Sandra Frith 2013


Getting to Carvoeiro from Faro airport The most convenient way is to hire a car – see the directions below. A taxi from the airport will cost between €55–€90. Resort transport companies offer transport either in a taxi, mini-bus or coach. This works out cheaper than a taxi. You can often book this when you book your flight. Expect to pay on average €22 per person for a one-way journey to Carvoeiro in a shuttle bus/coach. - Airport Transfers Algarve Tel: 01597 810333; www.airport-transfers-algarve.co.uk - Algarserra Tel: 289 804 017; www.algarserra.com/faro-airport-transfersto-carvoeiro/ - Algarve Online www.algarve-online.net - Armando Martins Tel: 938 942 350; Email: atiagbooking@hotmail.com - Faro Airport Transfers Tel: 966 110 818; www.faroairporttransfers.com - Fox Transfer www.foxtransfer.eu/from-faro-airport-tocarvoeiro.en.html - Greenbus Tel: 221 450 150; www.greenbus.pt - Low Cost Transfers www.low-cost-transfers.com/faro-airport - My Transfer Tel: 800 208 667 - Resort Hoppa www.resorthoppa.com - Shuttle Direct Tel: 0870 7350 369; www.shuttledirect.com - Táxis Simões e Miranda Tel: 282 315 501 or 963 056 040 or 962 633 068; Email: taxisimoes@gmail.com - VIP Chauffeurs Tel: 914 479 300; www.vipchauffeurs-algarve.com Public transport is possible but not advisable. You would need to catch a bus from the airport to Faro bus station. These run every 40 to 60 minutes (a one-way ticket costs €1.65). From here you need to catch an EVA bus to Lagoa (a one-way ticket costs €5.40) and from Lagoa another EVA bus to Carvoeiro. (At weekends you will also need to change buses in Albufeira.) Alternatively you could take a taxi to Faro railway station and catch a train to Estômbar or Portimão, then take a bus to Lagoa and then a bus to Carvoeiro. Check the bus and train timetables via the websites listed on pages 7 and 8. Directions from Faro airport (Distance 63 km (39 miles)) From the airport follow the signs to the A22 and Portimão. Turn right onto the A22 motorway (towards Lisboa and Albufeira). Drive for 56 km (35 miles). (This is the most direct route, although it is a toll road. The alternative route via the N125 is slower and busier.) Leave the motorway at junction 6 following signs for Lagoa. At the roundabout take the 3rd exit towards Carvoeiro. At the next roundabout take the 2nd exit towards the N125 and Carvoeiro. On the N125 follow the signs for Lagoa Sul. At the roundabout go straight on. At the traffic lights turn right following the sign for Carvoeiro. At the roundabout take the 2nd exit towards Praia do Carvoeiro. Enter the town on the one-way Rua dos Pescadores and follow the road through the town square following the bollards in a semi-circle to enter Estrada do Farol (with the Carvoeiro Sol hotel on your right and Smiler’s Bar on your left). [To leave Carvoeiro from Estrado do Farol turn right at Smiler’s Bar into the one-way Rua do Barranco which leads to the Lagoa road.] 5 Text and maps © Sandra Frith 2013

Photos © Neil Murfin and Sandra Frith 2013


Town square – follow the road through the square to Estrada do Farol.

Enter Estrada do Farol with Smiler’s Bar on your left.

Parking Parking can be a problem in Carvoeiro, especially in the evenings. Most people park on Estrada do Farol. There are also a few parking spaces on Rua do Barranco (part of this is metered) and Rua dos Pescadores. Parking spaces are also available on Monte Dourado (behind Rua do Barranco) and near Algar Seco. There is also an underground public car park under the Mercado Municipal on Rua do Cerro. Speed limits Motorways 120 kph (74 mph) Main roads 90 kph (55 mph) In towns 50 kph (31 mph) Please be aware that the police may make random checks and will fine drivers who cannot show a driving licence, passport or insurance or rental documents. They may also carry out a random breath test. Seat belts must be worn in front and back seats. Petrol Unleaded petrol is sem chumbo Diesel is gasoleo Lead substitute petrol is gasolina aditivada Motorway tolls The A22 (the motorway from Faro to Carvoeiro) is a toll road. Payment can only be made two days after you have made the journey. You have to pay it at a post office. When you enter the post office get a ticket from the machine which will ensure you get seen in turn. When it is your turn the number will appear on the screen above the counter. The toll from Faro to Carvoeiro costs €4.36. How you pay or who pays for any journey you make within the two days before you leave is a grey area and you will need to discuss this with the car rental company when you return the car. 6 Text and maps © Sandra Frith 2013

Photos © Neil Murfin and Sandra Frith 2013


Transport Buses There is a bus service from Carvoeiro to Lagoa. Buses run between 7.15 am and 7.40 pm at half-hourly, hourly or two-hourly intervals depending on the time of day. The journey time takes 10 minutes. A one-way ticket costs €2.20. Buy the ticket from the driver. Carvoeiro–Lagoa Lagoa–Carvoeiro Dep Arr Dep Arr 07:15 07:25 (Mon–Fri, not hols) 06:45 06:55 (Mon–Fri, not hols) 07:45 07:55 (Mon–Fri, not hols) 07:10 07:20 (Mon–Fri, not hols) 08:40 08:50 (Daily) 08:10 08:20 (Daily) 09:00 09:10 (Mon–Fri, not hols) 08:40 08:50 (Mon–Fri, not hols) 09:30 09:40 (Mon–Fri, not hols) 08:50 09:00 (Mon–Fri, not hols) 09:45 09:55 (Sat, Sun, hols) 09:15 09:25 (Sat, Sun, hols) 10:30 10:40 (Mon–Sat, not hols) 10:00 10:10 (Mon–Sat, not hols) 11:35 11:45 (Daily) 10:40 10:50 (Mon–Fri, not hols) 13:10 13:20 (Schooldays) 11:05 11:15 (Sat, Sun, hols) 13:35 13:45 (Mon–Fri, not hols) 12:30 12:40 (Schooldays) 14:10 14:20 (Daily) 13:05 13:15 (Mon–Fri, not hols) 16:00 16:10 (Daily) 13:35 13:45 (Daily) 17:55 18:05 (Daily) 15:25 15:35 (Daily) 19:15 19:25 (Daily) 17:25 17:35 (Daily) 19:40 19:50 (Mon–Fri, not hols) 18:40 18:50 (Daily) 19:10 19:20 (Mon–Fri, not hols) At Lagoa you can catch buses to other parts of the Algarve, including Faro. (At bus stations buy your ticket from the ticket office.) Timetables: Local buses: EVA Tel: 289 899 700; www.eva-bus.com You can buy a 3-day (€28.80) or 7-day (€35.90) Passe Turístico from bus stations, which allows unlimited travel on EVA buses. For buses to the main towns and cities in Portugal: Rede Expressos Tel: 213 581 472; www.rede-expressos.pt For buses to Braga, Porto and Lisbon: Renex Tel: 289 589 603; www.renex.pt For buses between Albufeira, Lagoa, Lagos, Messines, Monchique, Portimão, Praia da Rocha and Silves: Frota Azul Tel: 282 400 610; www.frotazul-algarve.pt See also www.algarvebus.info/index.htm which is an unofficial website with information about buses and trains.

Bus stops (paragem)

Estrada do Farol: - into the town centre towards Lagoa - outside China Town restaurant - from the town centre towards Centeanes and Carvalho – outside Força Portugal shop and there is another stop further up the hill opposite the junction with Rua dos Moinhos Rua dos Pescadores: - into the town centre and towards Centeanes and Carvalho from the Lagoa direction – near Cheers bar (opposite Casa do Pão restaurant) Rua do Barranco: - out of the town towards Lagoa – outside Innside Caffé 7 Text and maps © Sandra Frith 2013

Photos © Neil Murfin and Sandra Frith 2013


Planes There are regular flights between Faro airport and Lisbon (TAP Portugal) and Porto (Ryanair). TAP Portugal: www.flytap.com Ryanair: www.ryanair.com Taxis There is a taxi rank at the bottom of Estrada do Farol near the town square. Please note that taxis are not easy to flag down. All taxis should have a meter. A taxi to the Intermarché supermarket costs approx. €5 one way and to Silves (a 15-minute journey) costs approx. €15 one way. If you need to call a taxi these are useful numbers: ATC-Auto Táxis do Carvoeiro Tel: 968 578 583 Taxiarade Tel: 282 460 610 or 967 238 506 Rocha T Taxis Tel: 282 411 975; www.rochat-transfers.com Tourist train This departs from the town square every 40 minutes during the day and evening, except Tuesdays and Fridays when it runs to Ferragudo (leaving Carvoeiro at 11 am and returning from Ferragudo at 2 pm – it is advisable to book with the driver beforehand, tickets cost €10 (€8 for children)). On the other days the ‘train’ goes to and from Rocha Brava resort. Tickets cost €5 (€3 for children). Trains Trains run along the Algarve from Vila Real de Santo António to Lagos (the Regional service). There are several trains each day, but the journey can be slow (the journey from Portimão to Tunes takes 35 to 40 minutes and from Portimão to Faro takes approx. 1 hour and 30 minutes). The nearest station to Carvoeiro is at Estômbar, but Portimão station is a better option (as there is nothing at Estômbar station – you would need to phone for a taxi). You can buy your tickets from the ticket inspector on the train. Change at Tunes for routes to other parts of Portugal. The train fare to Faro is €5.95 one-way. Please note the last train leaves Faro at approximately 8.10 pm. Comboios de Portugal Tel: 808 208 208; www.cp.pt

Looking towards Rua do Barranco from the town square Text and maps © Sandra Frith 2013 Photos © Neil Murfin and Sandra Frith 2013

8


Places to visit Chapel and fort Heading east out of the town centre, just off Rampa da N. Sra. da Encarnação, there is a chapel which faces out to sea, Capela Nossa Senhora da Encarnação (Chapel of Our Lady of the Incarnation (the patron saint of Carvoeiro, who is believed to watch over the sea protecting the fishermen)). The original chapel was destroyed in the earthquake of 1755 and in the nineteenth century the building was used as a customs house. It was restored as a chapel in 1942. Inside the chapel is a seventeenth-century terracotta image of Our Lady of the Incarnation and an image of the crucifixion dating from the nineteenth century. Check at the Tourist Information office about how to get access inside the chapel. Behind the chapel there is a gate which is the only remains of a seventeenth-century fort which was built to defend the town from enemy assaults. It was also badly damaged in the 1755 earthquake. You can read the date of its construction (1675) on a stone lintel above the gate.

Algar Seco The western area of the Algarve has a coastline of sandstone cliffs which have been eroded by the wind and sea. Algar Seco (meaning ‘dry cavern’ or ‘sinkhole’) is one of these. It is a stunning rock formation 1 km (½ mile) east of the town centre. There are steps leading to rocks which consist of grottoes and blowholes. It is popular with snorkellers. At dusk the colours of the rocks change as the sun sets. Near Algar Seco are the Escadinhas (steps) which, although steep in places and with dangerous drops, are worth climbing down to see the rock formations. The steps go through the cliff and lead to caves and narrow pathways. The entrance is off Estrada do Algar Seco (it is signposted).

9 Text and maps © Sandra Frith 2013

Photos © Neil Murfin and Sandra Frith 2013


Beaches Note: Due to the danger of falling rocks don’t sit too close to the cliffs. Carvoeiro Beach – in the centre of the town. There is easy access to this beach for pushchairs and wheelchairs. You can take a boat trip or do water sports from this beach.

East of Carvoeiro: Vale do Covo – 1.2 km (0.75 miles) from the centre of Carvoeiro, below the Tivoli Carvoeiro Hotel. It is a small beach reached by climbing down 113 steps. Centeanes – a 30-minute walk (2.3 km (1.4 miles)) from the centre of Carvoeiro. The sand is beautiful, but the sea can be rough. It is popular with surfers.

Vale de Covo

Carvalho (Smugglers’ Cove) – 4 km (2.5 miles) from the centre of Carvoeiro, at Clube Atlântico. There are a lot of steps down to a tunnel through the cliff, which will lead you to the beach. Nearby is the Alfanzina lighthouse. The beach has been awarded a gold award for water quality and excellent bathing conditions. Benagil – an hour walk (5.2 km (3.2 miles)) from the centre of Carvoeiro. There is a very steep slope down to the beach, which is where most people park their cars. You can take a boat trip from here. There are two restaurants near the beach. This beach has also been awarded a gold award. Marinha – 7.8 km (5 miles) from Carvoeiro. A sandy beach surrounded by beautiful standstone cliff formations and blowholes. There is a small café by the beach, but it is very expensive, with a limited selection (custard tarts, ice creams and toasted sandwiches). You will need to ask for a key if you need to use the toilet. There is a car park here.

Benagil

West of Carvoeiro: Paraíso – 400m (437 yards) from the centre of Carvoeiro. There are 115 steps down to this beach.

Marinha

Caneiros – 6.4 km (4 miles) from Carvoeiro. This beach in Ferragudo is the nearest to Sesmarias. It has watersports and the Rei das Praias restaurant holds beach parties on some evenings. For more information on beaches download the Algarve Beach Guide pdf from the www.carvoeiro.com or www.visitalgarve.pt websites.

Paraíso 10

Text and maps © Sandra Frith 2013

Photos © Neil Murfin and Sandra Frith 2013


Walks You can walk to Benagil and Marinha beaches by road or over the cliffs. The road is quiet and away from the sea. There is no footpath, but it's not really a problem as there is not much traffic, however, there isn't a lot of shade. In places there is a pavement, which makes it a bit less stressful than walking by the side of the road, especially on bends! For a change of scene you can walk back via the Rocha Brava resort, which brings you out just before Centeanes beach. If you prefer to walk over the cliffs, you can follow the cliff path from the town via Algar Seco, Vale do Covo, Centeanes and Carvalho beaches. As you approach Carvalho beach there is Alfanzina lighthouse (not open to the public). The walk is steep and can be challenging in a few places as you have to clamber up and down, but there are great views of the rock formations, blowholes and beaches. There are yellow and red markers at regular points on the route. Good shoes are essential and ensure you keep away from the edges of the cliffs. To walk to Marinha beach take the same route to Benagil and then follow the road past the Club Golf Mar. On the walk back instead of turning left at the roundabout by the Rustico Restaurant, you can go straight on and then turn left at the roundabout which will take you into Rua dos Moinhos. This is a pleasant road to walk down as there is a pavement and you can admire the lovely villas on this road. You will come out on Estrada do Farol, just after the Hotel Tivoli in Carvoeiro. Allow one and a half hours each way. Alternatively you can walk along the cliffs from Benagil to Marinha. Climb up the steps at Benagil to join the path at the top of the cliffs.

A red arrow to the left indicates a left turn (as above). A red arrow to the right indicates a right turn. Horizontal yellow and red lines indicate straight on. Crossed yellow and red lines indicate no entry.

Alfanzina lighthouse

You can also walk from Carvoeiro to Ferragudo via the Monte Carvoeiro and Quinta do Paraíso resorts. Follow the signs for ‘scuba club’ and ‘supermarket’ and walk past an area of villas, but be warned that there are no signs and it is easy to go the wrong way. Dogs aren’t a major problem on the walks listed above, but may be more of a problem in remote areas. Avoid throwing anything at them, which may make them angry. On the website www.mapmyrun.com/routes/list/Run/Portugal/ carvoeiro there are several walking or running routes in and around Carvoeiro ranging from 6.7 to 25.72 km (4 to 16 miles). There is a walking group, the Carvoeiro Ramblers, who organise walks: www.forum.carvoeiro.com/viewforum.php?f=39 Portugal Walks organises guided walks: www.portugalwalks.com There is also a downloadable pdf Guide to Walking Trails in the Algarve (which includes a coastal walk between Centeanes and Marinha) from the www.carvoeiro.com or www.visitalgarve.pt websites. 11 Text and maps © Sandra Frith 2013

Photos © Neil Murfin and Sandra Frith 2013


Golf courses There are three courses very close to Carvoeiro. Vale de Milho – near Rocha Brava to the east of Carvoeiro (just after Vale de Centeanes, off the Estrada do Farol). Has a nine-hole course. Very relaxed atmosphere – no handicaps needed. Non-member green fees: 9 holes €24; 18 holes €37 Tel: 282 538 502; www.valedemilhogolf.com Pestana Gramacho – north-west of Carvoeiro (as you leave Carvoeiro drive towards the water tower on the Rua das Sesmarias at Sesmarias and at the water tower follow the signs to the golf course). An 18-hole course. Has a handicap of 27 for men and 35 for women. Non-member green fees start at €70, but increase to €105 at popular times. Tel: 282 340 900; www.pestanagolf.com Pestana Vale da Pinta – next to the Gramacho course (follow the directions for the Gramacho course, drive past the Gramacho course and follow the signs for Vale da Pinta). An 18-hole course, which also houses the Pestana golf academy. Non-member green fees start at €70, but increase to €105 at popular times. Tel: 282 340 900; www.pestanagolf.com

Other sports Airsports Algarve Airsports Centre, Lagos Tel: 914 903 384; www.algarveairsports.com Microlight and hot air ballon flights.

Darts Various bars in Carvoeiro take part in a darts league during the winter months.

Diving centres Divers Cove, Quinta do Paraíso www.diverscove.de Scuba Diving Centre, Hotel Tivoli Carvoeiro Tel: 282 351 194; www.algarve-scuba-diving.com Prices start at €35 for a try-dive in a pool.

Fishing Inshore and big game fishing trips (including bill fish, blue fish, bonito, giant conger eel, large bass, marlin, sea bream, swordfish, tuna and various species of sharks) depart from Portimão marina. Turináutica Tel: 282 041 476; www.boat-cruises-portugal.com Big Game Fishing – Algarve Portugal www.biggamefishing.info Big Game Fishing in Algarve Tel: 282 425 866; www.biggamefishinginalgarve.com

Horse riding Quinta da Gill Riding Centre, Lombos (between Lagoa and Marinha) Tel: 966 619 136

Jet skiing and quad biking Angel Pilot, Parchal (north of Ferragudo) Tel: 917 999 810; www.prorent-algarve.com Offers quad bike rental and organises guided tours. 12 Text and maps © Sandra Frith 2013

Photos © Neil Murfin and Sandra Frith 2013


Karting Kartódromo Internacional Algarve, Sítio de Escampadinho Mexillhoeira Grande, Portimão Tel: 282 405 650; www.autodromodoalgarve.com Has two circuits, a skid pad and a children’s track. Prices start from €12 (€10 children) for 5 minutes.

Surfing The best surfing beaches are on the west coast of Portugal. Algarve Watersport organise surfing daytrips: www.algarvewatersport.com/surfdaytrip Price €75 Nearer to Carvoeiro, Centeanes beach and Pintadinho beach (8 km (5 miles) west of Carvoeiro) have good surfing conditions.

Swimming There is a public indoor swimming pool at Lagoa – on the EN125 behind the bus terminal. A ‘free use’ (Utilização Livre) timetable (in Portuguese) can be downloaded from http://www.cmlagoa.pt/menu/274/actividades-nas-piscinas-municipais.aspx; Tel: 282 380 446

Tennis and other sports Municipal sports courts, Estrada do Farol, next to the Mirachoro Hotel Here you can play tennis, basketball, netball and football. (To book contact the Junta on Rua do Barranco (between Bistro 72 and Innside Caffé) Tel: 282 356 690; email: j.f.carvoeiro@mail.telepac.pt; opening hours 9 am to 3 pm.) Carvoeiro Clube de Ténis, north-west of Carvoeiro (on Estrada do Vale da Lapa) Tel: 282 357 847; www.teniscarvoeiro.com As well as several hard, clay and grass courts, the club offers lessons and organises tournaments. There is also mini-golf, a gym and a beauty salon.

Water-skiing and windsurfing Algarve Windsurfing and Sailing Centre, Ferragudo Tel: 282 461 115

Things to do Boat trips Boat trips in fishing boats around the local coastline and into the grottoes run from Carvoeiro beach and Benagil beach. An hour’s trip costs €15. Boat trips in larger boats run from Portimão marina. You can buy tickets from the vendors along the river front. Also a mock-pirate ship runs various trips from Portimão marina (Santa Bernarda Cruzeiros Tel: 282 422 791; www.santa-bernarda.com. Prices range from €30 to €60 (adults and children over 10) and €15 to €30 (children under 11)) Trips along the River Arade to Silves run from Portimão harbour.

Bullfights Praça de Touros de Albufeira, Albufeira (during the summer months). Please be aware that although the bull isn’t killed in the ring, it is usually injured and killed afterwards.

Casino Hotel Algarve Casino, Praia da Rocha www.hotel-algarve-casino.com

13 Text and maps © Sandra Frith 2013

Photos © Neil Murfin and Sandra Frith 2013


Children’s playground There is a children’s playground near the chapel (Capela Nossa Senhora da Encarnação), just off Rampa da N. Sra. da Encarnação.

Cinemas Most cinemas show films in their original language with Portuguese subtitles. Cinema de Portimão, Avenida Miguel Bombarda, Portimão; Tel: 282 411 931 Cinema Praia da Rocha, Praia da Rocha, Portimão; Tel: 282 419 081 Golden City, Continente Shopping Centre, Portimão; Tel: 282 418 180 Portimão Castello Lopes, Centro Comercial Modelo Quinta da Malata, Portimão Tel: 282 418 180; www.castellolopescinemas.com

Disco O Bote, beside the town beach Tel: 913 668 200 Gets going after midnight. It has foam parties once a week. Will organise private parties.

Jeep safari Full-day tours in a 4x4 around the countryside. Algarve Direkt – The jeep will pick you up from Carvoeiro. Price: €45. www.algarve-direkt.com/excursions/jeep_safari.htm Portitours www.portitours.pt

Motorcar and motorcycle racing Portimão Circuit (11 km (7 miles) north-west of Portimão) Autódromo Internacional do Algarve, Sítio do Escampadinho, Mexilhoeira Grande; Tel: 282 405 600; www.autodromodoalgarve.com

Water parks, zoos and oceanarium Some of the theme parks operate their own buses from Carvoeiro and you can buy your entrance ticket in advance. Check at the Tourist Information office. Aqualand, Alcantarilha (between Albufeira and Armação de Pêra)Tel: 282 322 828; www.aqualand.pt Prices: €22 (adults and children over 12); €16 (children under 13) Aquashow Park Hotel, Quarteira (near Faro) Tel: 289 389 396; www.aquashowparkhotel.com Attractions include a waterpark, a watercoaster, a space centre, sea lions and ice-skating. Krazy World Zoo, Algoz Tel: 282 514 134; www.krazyworld.com A zoo with swimming pools, mini-golf, bouncy castles, pony rides, go-carts and motoquads. Prices: €9.95 (adults and children over 12); €6.95 (children under 13 and senior citizens) Lagos Zoo, Quinta Figueiras, Sitio do Medronhal, Barão d S. João Tel: 282 680 100; www.zoolagos.com Open all year. Prices: €16 (adults and children over 11); €14 (senior citizens); €12 (children under 12) Slide & Splash theme park at Vale de Deus, near Estômbar (west of Lagoa on the EN125) Tel: 282 340 800; www.slidesplash.com Prices: €25 (adults and children over 10); €18 (children under 11 and senior citizens) Zoomarine, Guia (near Albufeira), just off the EN125 www.zoomarine.com A marine theme park with dolphin shows, tropical birds and birds of prey, plus water rides and a mini-roller coaster. Open from mid-March to October. Prices: €28.00 (adults and children over 10); €19.00 (children under 11 and senior citizens). 14 Text and maps © Sandra Frith 2013

Photos © Neil Murfin and Sandra Frith 2013


Food and drink Food Local produce includes: fish (sardines, octopus, mackerel, swordfish, lamprey, lobster, red mullet, John Dory and prawns), figs, olives, almonds, oranges and rice. Local dishes: cataplana – a traditional seafood and ham dish of the region, named after the pressure-cooking pot it is cooked in arroz de marisco – seafood with rice (similar to Spanish paella, but more like a stew) bacalhau – dried, salted cod sardinhas – sardines piri-piri – a chilli sauce. Chicken piri-piri is a very popular dish in the region. pastéis de nata – custard tarts tarte de amêndoa – almond tart (pastéis de nata and tarte de amêndoa are available from cafés and pastelarias – a type of bakery/cakeshop/café) Beer Portuguese beers (pale lager-style) available include Sagres, Super Bock, Tagus and Cristal. Wine There are vineyards around Lagoa and there is a winery in the town, Adega Cooperativa de Lagoa, where you can do wine-tasting. There is also an art gallery in the building. N125 Portimao Road, Lagoa Tel: 282 342 181 (free entrance, book in advance – open in summer months 9.30 am to 12.30 pm and 2 pm to 5.30 pm). In addition to table wines it also produces Algarseco, which is a white wine similar to sherry. The vineyard and winery at Quinta do Morgado da Torre, Sitio da Penina, Alvor offers wine tours and tastings and sells its award-winning wines, such as Alvor Rosé, Alvor Reserva (red), Tapada da Torre Viognier (white), Alcalar premium (red) and a port-like Tapada da Torre Reserva Vinho Licoroso. Tel: 282 476 866 The Adega do Cantor Winery at Guia, near Albufeira sells locally produced wines, including those from the Quinta do Moinho vineyard of the singer Cliff Richard, which produces the Vida Nova range of wine: www.winesvidanova.com Also try the slightly sparkling and very refreshing vinho verde (produced in the north of Portugal). Casal Garcia vinho verde is available in local mini-supermarkets and is reasonably priced (approx. €4.10 a bottle). Download the Algarve Tourism Board booklet Guide to Wines of the Algarve from the www.carvoeiro.com or www.visitalgarve.pt websites. The local spirits are aguardente de medronho (made from strawberry tree berries), amêdoa amarga (almond liquor) and aguardente do figo (fig liquor). Another local spirit, distilled in Lagoa, is bagaço, made from the residue of the white grapes which is matured for several years. Port, while not local (it comes from the Douro valley), is often served at the end of a meal in many restaurants. Fresh orange juice is served at most cafés. It costs between €1 and €2.50 a glass. A white coffee usually comes with a slight froth on top. It’s not quite a cappuccino, but still good. If you order a ‘cappuccino’ most cafés and bars will put a huge blob of squirty cream on top. Tap water is safe and not unpleasant to drink. 15 Text and maps © Sandra Frith 2013

Photos © Neil Murfin and Sandra Frith 2013


Shops This is not a finite list, but a selection of the shops in Carvoeiro. There are plenty of ‘touristy’ shops and mini-supermarkets, too numerous to mention. Some of the shops on Rua do Barranco and Rua dos Pescadores have an entrance on both roads. Algarve Book Cellar, Rua dos Pescadores A book exchange for foreign language books (English, Geman and Dutch), plus DVDs and CDs. Tel: 282 354 310 Car and bike rental Auto Dourada, Rua do Barranco Tel: 282 357 932 Auto Rent IV, Rua do Barranco Tel: 282 356 057 Alcar Expresso, Estrada do Farol Tel: 282 356 424 Budget Carvoeiro, Rua do Barranco Tel: 282 357 828 Locauto, Rua das Flores Tel: 282 359 196 Motorent (motorbike and bike rentals), Rua do Barranco Tel: 282 356 551; www.motorent.pt Carvoeiro Golf Shop, Rua dos Pescadores Tel: 282 354 061; www.carvoeiro-golf-shop.com Golf equipment to buy or hire, plus they repair and make clubs. Has a chipping room. Ceramics: Praça Velha, Rua do Barranco O Baú d’Avo, Rua do Barranco Chemists Neves Furtado, Rua dos Pescadores (local pharmacy – 24-hour rotas are posted on the door) Tel: 282 357 463 Super Saúde, Rua do Barranco – sells non-prescription medicines, toiletries and cosmetics. Clothes Aladdins Silver, Estrada do Farol Women’s clothes. Bacana Boutique, Estrada do Farol Che Sussel, Estrada do Farol Women’s clothes and accessories. Collections, Rua dos Pescadores; Tel: 282 358 014 Women’s and men’s clothes and accessories. Cork and leather shop, Rua dos Pescadores Clothes, bags and accessories made from cork and leather. Dacora, Rua dos Pescadores Tel: 282 357 101 Fashionable clothes and accessories. Força Portugal, Estrada do Farol Football clothing and souvenirs. Goa Indian Shop, Rua dos Pescadores Indian cotton clothing. They have an over-zealous sales technique. Kubo, Rua dos Pescadores Women’s clothes. Le Macho, Rua do Barranco Men’s and children’s clothes. 16 Text and maps © Sandra Frith 2013

Photos © Neil Murfin and Sandra Frith 2013


Lucinda Paris, Rua do Barranco Clothes for larger-size women. Spring, Estrada do Farol Swimwear. Donkey Sanctuary charity shop (Refugio Dos Burros), Rua do Barranco Tel: 966 033 127; www.refugiodosburros.org Florist, Estrada do Farol (opposite Round Up bar) Grocery shops There are several mini-supermarkets (mini-mercados) in the centre of Carvoeiro and on Estrada do Farol where you can get essentials such as bread and milk. There is also a well-stocked Spar on the Rocha Brava resort. The town market sells fresh produce. The mini-supermarkets are much more expensive than the out-of-town supermarkets (Intermarché, Pingo Doce and Aldi). Hair, beauty and alternative therapy salons AquaZen (massage, reflexology, manicure, pedicure (including fish pedicure) and waxing.), Rua do Barranco Body & Soul (manicure, pedicure, facials, massage and waxing), Rua do Barranco Tel: 282 358 162 Corpo e alma (facials, massage, manicure, pedicure, Reiki and Bowen technique), Hotel Tivoli Carvoeiro Tel: 916 586 797 Emilie Di (massage and beauty treatments), Rua do Barranco Tel: 916 890 801 Helena Oliveira (hair stylist and beauty salon), Rua dos Pescadores Tel: 967 010 536 Victor Picardo hairdresser, Estrada do Farol Tel: 282 356 894; www.victorpicardo.com/saloes/praia-de-carvoeiro.html Internet and printing shop, Estrada do Farol (opposite Happy’s restaurant) Jewellery: Imagine, Rua do Barranco Lolita, Rua do Barranco Mariana Cabrita Joalheiros, Estrada do Farol Market There is a market (Mercado Municipal de Carvoeiro) on Rua do Cerro which sells bread, meat, fish, fruit and vegetables. Open daily (except Sundays) until 12 pm. Supermarkets Aldi, recently opened on the road between Carvoeiro and Lagoa. At the time of writing it doesn’t accept foreign debit or credit cards. Intermarché, Poço Partido (on the road between Carvoeiro and Lagoa) Tel: 282 380 320 This is a large supermarket with a good selection of produce. You can buy firewood here. Pingo Doce, Lugar Bemparece, Estrada Carvoeiro, Lagoa (on the road between Carvoeiro and Lagoa) Iceland, Albufeira Tel: 289 561 564 Popular with the ex-pats as it sells products not widely available in Portugal. Travel agency A.C.V. & João Gomes, Exchange and Travel Agent, Rua dos Pescadores Aitag Travel Agency, Rua dos Pescadores Easygo Holidays, Rua do Barranco; Tel: 282 081 465; www.easygo-holidays.pt They can arrange excursions (including day trips to the water parks), car and minibus hire, ferry tickets, airport transport. 17 Text and maps © Sandra Frith 2013

Photos © Neil Murfin and Sandra Frith 2013


Wine shops (avoid buying wine from any shop that has the bottles standing in the sun) Garrafeira (wine shop), Rua do Barranco Soares Wines and Spirits, town square (under Matabixo Café Bar) Intermarché supermarket (reasonable wines at good prices)

Large shopping centres The shopping centres in Portimão can be reached by the Vai e Vem buses which run around the Portimão area (www.cm-portimao.pt/portal_autarquico/portimao/v_ptPT/pagina_inicial/destaques/CirUrbVaiEVem_2011_VaiEVem.html). Portimão Retail Centre, Rua de São Pedro, Portimão (from the N125 drive towards Portimão, keep to the right and the centre is just off the Avenida V6 and EN125 roundabout – behind the Aqua Portimão centre) Tel: 282 413 243; www.portimaoretailcenter.com Aqua Portimão Shopping Centre, Rua de São Pedro, Portimão (from the N125 drive towards Portimão, keep to the right and the centre is just off the Avenida V6 and EN125 roundabout) Tel: 282 413 536; www.aquaportimao.pt Algarve Shopping centre, Guia (near Albufeira) www.algarveshopping.pt The bus from Lagoa to Faro stops here: Tel: 289 899 700; www.eva-bus.com

Markets

Lagoa – opposite the Fatacil showground, 2nd Sunday of each month. Portimão – Parque de Feiras e Exposiçöes (near the railway station), 1st Monday of each month. Silves – next to the cemetery, 3rd Sunday of each month.

Flea markets

Ferragudo – on the riverside, 2nd Sunday morning of each month. Lagoa – Fatacil showground, 4th Sunday morning of each month. Portimão – Parque de Feiras e Exposiçöes (near the railway station), 1st and 3rd Sunday of each month. Silves – on the riverside, 3rd Sunday of each month.

18 Text and maps © Sandra Frith 2013

Photos © Neil Murfin and Sandra Frith 2013


Essentials Banks There are several banks with cashpoint machines. It is advisable to get your money before the weekend as the machines can run out of money. Banks are open Monday to Friday between 8.30 am and 3 pm. Many close for lunch between 12 pm and 1 pm. Banco Mello, Rua dos Pescadores Caixa de Crédito Agricola, Rua do Barranco Caixa Geral de Depositos, Rua do Barranco Santander Totta, Estrada do Farol Churches Our Lady of the Incarnation Church, Rampa da N. Sra. da Encarnação (Catholic) Summer services: Saturdays 9 pm and Sundays 10.30 am All Nations Community Church, Carvoeiro Tennis Club www.allnationsalgarve.com Services: Sundays 10.30 am Clothing and shoe sizes Women’s clothing sizes UK USA Portugal 6 2 34 8 4 36 10 6 38 12 8 40 14 10 42 16 12 44 18 14 46 20 16 48 22 18 50 24 20 52

UK 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

Shoes sizes USA (W = Women/M = Men) 5(W)/3½(M) 6(W)/4½(M) 7(W)/5½(M) 8(W)/6½(M) 9(W)/7½(M) 10(W)8½(M) 11(W)/9½(M) 12(W)/10½(M) 13(W)/11½(M) 14(W)/12½(M)

Portugal 35½ 37 38 39½ 41 42 43 44½ 46 47

Consulates and Embassies British (Portimão), Apartado 609, Dutch (Lisbon) Tel: 213 914 900 Edificio A Fabrica, Avenida German (Lisbon) Tel: 218 810 210 Guanaré, Portimão; Irish (Lisbon) Tel: 213 929 440 Tel: 808 203 537 Norwegian (Lisbon) Tel: 213 015 344 Canadian (Lisbon) Tel: 213 164 600 Spanish (Lisbon) Tel: 213 472 381 Danish (Lisbon) Tel: 213 512 960 Swedish (Lisbon) Tel: 213 942 260 Directory enquiries Tel: 118 (ONLY from a Portuguese phone) Emergency services (police, fire and ambulance) Tel: 112 (ONLY from a Portuguese phone) Faro Airport Tel: 289 800 800; www.faroairportsguide.com Health care A note on health care: if you are a European Union citizen you are entitled to free public health care. However, public health care in Portugal is very basic and if you have travel insurance it is worth paying for private medical treatment. In the first instance go to a pharmacist, unless it is an emergency.

Carvoeiro Health Centre is not open to tourists. For general ailments or to renew a prescription contact Portimão, Silves, Lagoa, Monchique, Lagos, Aljezur or Vila do Bispo health centres. For emergencies go to Lagos, Albufeira or Portimão hospitals. Lagoa Health Centre, Rua do Centro de Saúde, Lagoa; Tel: 282 340 370 Mon–Fri 9 am–1 pm & 2–7 pm Portimão Centro Hospitalar do Barlavento Algarvio (CHBA), Sítio do Poço Seco, Portimão; Tel: 282 450 300: Emergencies: 24 hours a day; General ailments Mon-Sun 9 am–7 pm Lagos Hospital – Emergencies: 24 hours a day; General ailments Mon-Fri 9 am–1 pm and 2–7 pm Albufeira Hospital – Emergencies: 24 hours a day

19 Text and maps © Sandra Frith 2013

Photos © Neil Murfin and Sandra Frith 2013


Dentists: Clinica Dentária do Carvoeiro, Estrada do Farol Tel: 282 356 877 Dr Axel Geiger, Estrada do Farol Tel: 282 350 300 Doctors: German Medical Centre, Rua do Barranco Tel: 282 356 339 or 962 618 588 Dr. Torsten Habeck and Dr. Franz-Peter Pertl, Medical Clinic, Monte Carvoeiro Tel: 282 357 720 or 917 742 927 Dr. Robert Popken, Estrada do Farol Tel: 282 356 034 Dr. Kenneth Vieira, Rua Povo do Burro Tel: 282 350 780 Optical: Roy Carpenter (optometrist), Urbanização Boavista (near Sesmarias) Tel: 282 084 936 Portimão Hospital Tel: 282 450 300 Laundry: Lavandaria Sancor, Rua dos Pescadores; Tel: 282 356 308 Online booking of excursions Algarve Online – They organise trips to the water parks, the sand sculpture exhibition, historical towns, wine tasting, jeep safaris and further afield to other parts of Portugal and Spain. Tel: 934 702 732; www.algarve-tours-excursions.com Petrol station CESPA, Rua de Lagoa Police (GNR), Rampa da N. Sra. da Encarnação Tel: 282 356 460 (Emergency 112) Post Office (CTT), Rua dos Pescadores (open Monday to Friday 8.30 am to 6 pm – closed 12 pm to 2 pm) Stamps can be bought from the post office, the machine outside the post office, tobacconists and some shops selling postcards. Public telephones There are public phones in the post office (pay after you finish your call) and public phone boxes outside Smiler’s Bar on the Estrada do Farol (buy a phone card from newsagents). Public toilets There are public toilets next to Carvoeiro town beach (and showers) and Benagil beach. Recycling and rubbish bins There are recycling and rubbish bins on Estrada do Farol (near Via Italia restaurant) and also in the car park near the municipal sports courts at the top of the Estrada do Farol. There are three types of recycling bin: yellow for plastic and metal; green for glass; and blue for paper and cardboard. Time differences: UK and Ireland – no difference Germany, Netherlands, Sweden, Norway, Denmark and Spain – Portugal is one hour behind Tipping There are no hard and fast rules. Generally: restaurants 5–10%; bar with table service leave small change; taxis round up to nearest euro; porters €1–€2; maid €1 a day or leave some toiletries. Tourist Information Office, town square Tel: 282 357 728; email: turismo.carvoeiro@turismodoalgarve.pt Wi-fi Wi-fi is available at Jan’s Bar and Matabixo Bar (town square), Hemingway’s Bar and Imprevisto (Rua do Barranco), Irish Times bar (Rua dos Pescadores), Bar Mexilhão, A Boa Vida, Pastelaria Central, The Black Stove, Joker’s Bar, Café Fino, Primavera and Vimar (Estrada do Farol), Casa Palmeira restaurant (Rua do Cerro), RBC@FÉ (Rocha Brava), Tropical Helder’s Snack-bar (near Rocha Brava) and Vale do Milho Golf Clubhouse. You can also buy a pay-as-you-go SIM card and dongle from the phone shop in Intermarché. There is an Internet and printing shop, on Estrada do Farol (opposite Happy’s restaurant). 20 Text and maps © Sandra Frith 2013

Photos © Neil Murfin and Sandra Frith 2013


Health hazards The major health hazards are sunstroke, sunburn and dehydration. Take care in the sea as the undertow can be heavy. I have listed the various snakes, arachnids, insects and fish that are potentially hazardous, but would like to stress that sightings of these are very rare in Carvoeiro. Remember to check inside your shoes before putting them on. Ants Ants can be rife, especially when food is left laying around. They are more of a nuisance than a danger. To deter them clean work surfaces and tables after use, wash up used crockery and cutlery and dispose of rubbish bags containing food. Centipedes These may be found in the house during damp weather. The Mediterranean banded centipede has a painful and potent bite. Geckos and lizards These are common in the Algarve and may enter buildings in cooler weather. They are completely harmless and more scared of you than you are of them. Mosquitoes In the summer months there may be mosquitoes about, so use insect repellent in the evening and a plug-in mosquito killer in your accommodation at night. They are not dangerous, but can give annoying bites that itch. Processional caterpillars These live in pine trees in forests. They are found between November and February. Skin contact with their hairs can cause itching and painful swelling. Inhalation of the hairs is more serious. Scorpions These are found under stones and in dry-stone walls. They can give a very painful sting which can last over a week. Snakes There are eight species of snake known to live in Portugal, but only one is dangerous to humans, the Snub-nosed Viper (it is grey with a zig-zag pattern on its back and a yellow tip on its tail. It has a distinctive horn on its nose). Spiders The Laundry Spider can appear on washing hanging outside to dry, so always shake your washing well before bringing it indoors. The spider has a painful bite. The Recluse Spider lives in dark dry corners. The venom is potent. Jellyfish Jellyfish can give a nasty sting. Rinse the sting with seawater, vinegar or ammonia and remove the tentacles. Rays These live in shallow sandy areas of the beach. A sting can cause irritation. Scorpionfish These live in rocky areas. If stepped on the spine can give a painful sting. Sea urchins These live around rocky shorelines. If you step on the spine of a sea urchin the foot will become swollen and may get infected. You should see a doctor to get the needles removed. Weever fish These live in the sand. If you step on one you will experience extreme pain. The venom is potent so soak your foot in very hot water as soon as possible. Rabies Portugal is rabies free. 21 Text and maps Š Sandra Frith 2013

Photos Š Neil Murfin and Sandra Frith 2013


Foreign and local newspapers and magazines Foreign newspapers are widely available in the town. Portuguese newspapers and magazines in English are also available: The Portugal News (a weekly national newpaper) published on Saturdays €1.50 (although complimentary copies are available at Faro airport in the baggage reclaim area and the departure lounge and also at selected outlets along the Algarve) www.theportugalnews.com Algarve Resident (a weekly regional newpaper) published on Fridays €1.50 www.algarveresident.com Inside Magazine (Carvoeiro, Lagoa and Silves edition) – a glossy magazine which has information about what’s happening and restaurant guides for the area. Published four times a year www.essential-portugal.com Tomorrow Carvoeiro – a monthly free paper which includes local news and a guide to events. It is available from some shops in Carvoeiro and is also available on www.tomorrowcarvoeiro.com/editions/

22 Text and maps © Sandra Frith 2013

Photos © Neil Murfin and Sandra Frith 2013


Speak a little Portuguese! Although most people in Carvoeiro speak excellent English it is nice to be able to say a few words of Portuguese. Try these! hello – olá goodbye – adeus please – por favor thank you – obrigado (if you are man), obrigada (if you are a woman) excuse me – com licença sorry – desculpe white coffee – café com leite orange juice – sumo de laranja white wine – vinho branco red wine – vinho tinto beer – cerveja How much is it? – Quanto é? where – onde toilet – casa de banho the bill – a conta stamps – selos toll – portagem I don’t understand – Não compreendo Do you speak English? – Fala Inglês? Numbers one to ten one – um (masc.) / uma (fem.) two – dois (masc.) / duas (fem.) three – três four – quatro five – cinco six – seis seven – sete eight – oito nine – nove ten – dez Days of the week: Sunday – domingo Monday – segunda-feira Tuesday – terça-feira Wednesday – quarta-feira Thursday – quinta-feira Friday – sexta-feira Saturday – sábado

23 Text and maps © Sandra Frith 2013

Photos © Neil Murfin and Sandra Frith 2013


Months of the year: January – Janeiro February – Fevereiro March – Março April – Abril May – Maio June – Junho July – Julho August – Agosto September – Setembro October – Outubro November – Novembro December – Dezembro Useful language for understanding websites: start – origem destination – destino find – pesquisar find timetables – pesquisa de horários free use – utilização livre price list – tabela de preços A note on pronunciation If you speak some Spanish then Portuguese is quite easy to read. However, it is hard to understand as the consonants and vowels are pronounced differently to Spanish. c – is hard, EXCEPT before e and i ç – is a soft sound ch – pronounced as ‘sh’ j – pronounced like the s in ‘measure’ g – before a, o and u it is a hard sound, otherwise it is pronounced like the s in ‘measure’ lh – pronounced as ‘ly’ nh – pronounced as ‘ny’ q – pronounced as a ‘k’ s – at the end of a word or before a consonant pronounced as ‘sh’ x – pronounced as ‘sh’ h – is silent e – silent at the end of a word ã – pronounced with a nasal sound õ – pronounced with a nasal sound ei – pronounced as ‘a’ ou – pronounced as a long ‘o’ ão – pronounced as ‘ow’ Apart from the vowels listed above, normally two vowels together are sounded separately.

24 Text and maps © Sandra Frith 2013

Photos © Neil Murfin and Sandra Frith 2013


Further reading Fiction The Migrant Painter of Birds by Lídia Jorge (Harvill Press, 2001). A novel describing a young girl growing up in an Algarve village in the 1950s. Jorge is a highly respected author who was born in Albufeira in 1946. Miracle in Carvoeiro by Roger Hardy (lulu.com, 2009). A self-published multi-character novel set in Carvoeiro. Beyond the Sea: Stories from the Algarve by Lisa Selvidge (Montanha Books, 2011). A collection of interlinking short stories set in the Algarve (and against the background of the disappearance of Madeleine McCann) in the summer of 2007. Summer Times in the Algarve: A Collection of Writings edited by Lisa Selvidge (Montanha Books, 2011). A collection of short stories, poems and memoirs by different writers covering the history of the Algarve from the Moors up to the present day. Flora and fauna Flowers of South-West Europe: A Field Guide by Oleg Polunin and Bertram E. Smythies (Oxford University Press, 2000). Where to Watch Birds in Spain and Portugal by Laurence Rose (Stackpole Books, 1997). Food and wine Algarve Country Cooking by Rainer Horbelt and Sonja Spindler (Vista Ibérica Publicações, Portugal, 1997). This recipe book includes descriptions of the traditions that the dishes accompany. Piri Piri Starfish by Tessa Kiros (Murdoch Books, 2008). A recipe book full of personal reminiscences and wonderful photos, as well as clear recipes for typical Portuguese dishes. The Taste of Portugal by Edite Vieira (Grub Street, 2000). Vieira accompanies the recipes with references to Portuguese history and folklore. The Wines and Vineyards of Portugal by Richard Mayson (MITCH, 2006). Mayson is an authority on this subject. Golf Golf’s Golden Coast: Algarve – The Complete Course Guide by John Russell and Nuno Campos (Vista Ibérica Publicações, Portugal, 1995). An illustrated guide to the golf clubs of the Algarve. Travel literature Algarve: A Portrait and a Guide (Barrie and Rockliff, 1965) by David Wright and Patrick Swift. David Wright (1920–1994) was an author and poet. Patrick Swift (1927–1983) was an Irish artist, ceramicist and writer who rented a house overlooking Carvoeiro beach (described as a large latenineteenth-century house with a square tower). He founded Porches Pottery, which still exists selling hand-made traditional pottery (www.porchespottery.com), and he is buried in Porches. The book describes the Algarve of the 1960s, when Carvoeiro was still a very small fishing village before mass tourism changed it. The authors relate stories of the complicated procedure of buying a stamp, attending a local dance, the social complexities of shopping and the Cabo do Mar (harbourmaster) who stringently upheld the law forbidding the wearing of bikinis on the beach!

25 Text and maps © Sandra Frith 2013

Photos © Neil Murfin and Sandra Frith 2013


Travel memoirs Wild Herbs and Happiness: Life in an Algarve Mountain Village by Ruth Banks (Associação IN LOCO, 1996). Captures a fast-disappearing side of the Algarve. Algarve Shorts (GoldStar Books, 2003) and Long Road Back (GoldStar Books, 2009) by Ellie Bowdery. The true story of a couple who moved to Lagoa in the early 2000s to run a carpentry business. Their experiences are chronicled in Algarve Shorts. They left Portugal when the recession hit, but made a second (unsuccessful) attempt to live in Portugal, which is chronicled in Long Road Back. Portugal and the Algarve: Now and Then by Jenny Grainer (Pen Press, 2010). The author has lived in the Algarve since the 1960s and this book chronicles the changes she has witnessed. The Best of Algarve Life: A Light-hearted Look at Life in the Algarve by Reg Reynolds (Helvern, 1991). A humorous view of living in the Algarve. Walks Landscapes of Algarve: A Countryside Guide by Brian and Eileen Anderson (Sunflower Books, 2000). This book has maps and photos of walks and car tours in the Algarve. Algarve – Let’s Walk by Julie Statham (Vista Ibérica Publicações, Portugal, 2002) and Walking in the Algarve: 40 Coastal and Mountain Walks by Julie Statham (Cicerone Press, 2006). Julie runs guided walking tours in Portugal (Portugal Walks www.portugalwalks.com). Algarve Tourism Board booklets The Algarve Tourism Board has produced booklets on the following subjects. They can be downloaded as pdfs from the www.carvoeiro.com or www.visitalgarve.pt websites: Algarve Beach Guide Birdwatching Guide to the Algarve Cork Route Guide to the Cultural Heritage of the Algarve Guide to Nature Tourism in the Algarve Guide to Walking Trails in the Algarve Guide to Wines of the Algarve Secrets of Rural Algarve: From the Barrocal to the Serra do Caldeirão Secrets of Rural Algarve: From the Guadiana to the Northwest Secrets of Rural Algarve: From the Vicentine Coast to Monchique Tours Around the Algarve

26 Text and maps © Sandra Frith 2013

Photos © Neil Murfin and Sandra Frith 2013


Days out Alvor Alvor is a pretty village that has retained the appearance of a traditional Portuguese fishing village. There is a small fishing harbour with several bars and fish restaurants overlooking it. The centre of the village, which is away from the waterfront, has small winding streets with old buildings, many converted to restaurants and bars. There is also a large sandy beach. Buses for Alvor leave from Portimão (http://www.cmportimao.pt/portal_autarquico/portimao/v_ptPT/pagina_inicial/destaques/CirUrbVaiEVem_2011_VaiEVem.html.).

Faro There is an attractive harbour area with gardens and cafés, as well as a maritime museum. The Old Town (Cidade Velha) is worth a visit and the cathedral (Sé) is an attractive building surrounded by orange trees. There is also an archaeological museum in the Old Town and an Algarve regional museum. In the church Igreja do Carmo there is a chapel of bones (Capela dos Ossos), with walls covered with human bones. There is a good choice of shops in the centre and lots of places to eat and drink in the shopping area on Rua de Santo António. Buses for Faro leave from Lagoa (www.eva-bus.com). Ferragudo A traditional fishing village with a few fish restaurants. It has several beaches nearby including one with a sixteenth-century castle, which was built as a fort, behind it. The castle is now private property. Buses for Ferragudo leave from Portimão (www.eva-bus.com) or you can take the tourist train from Carvoeiro on Tuesdays and Fridays. Lagos Lagos is a fishing port with a large marina. Worth seeing in the town is a church, Igreja de Santo António, with an opulent gilt interior and the Municipal Museum which has a strange mixture of Algarvian objects. There are also the remains of the mediaeval walls and the former slave market. Buses for Lagos leave from Lagoa (www.eva-bus.com). Monchique Monchique is an inland town 26 km (16 miles) north of Carvoeiro. It has retained a traditional charm. The area around Monchique is the green, wooded mountains of the Serra de Monchique, on which cork, chestnut and eucalyptus trees grow. Nearby is Caldas de Monchique, which is a spa town. The area is popular with hikers. Buses for Monchique leave from Portimão (www.frotazul-algarve.pt). 27 Text and maps © Sandra Frith 2013

Photos © Neil Murfin and Sandra Frith 2013


Pêra (Sand Sculpture Festival) An annual sand sculpture festival (FIESA – Festival Internacional de Esculturas em Areia) is held near Pêra from April to October. Each year there is a different theme. The sculptures, made of special construction sand, are impressive in their size and detail. The exhibition is open in the day and in the evening, when the sculptures are lit. From the A22 leave at Exit 8 (for Algoz and Pêra). Follow signs to Pêra. The sand sculptures are on the E524 between Pêra and Algoz. Ask about buses to the festival at the Tourist Information office. Prices: €9 (adults and children over 12); €4.50 (children under 13) Tel: 282 317 084; www.fiesa.org Portimão The walk along the river front by the Rio Arade is pleasant – you will come across a small area where people are trying to sell boat trips and then further down there are sardine restaurants. There isn’t much in Portimão: a shopping area (at the square with the dancing fountains head inland and after about 5 minutes you will see the shopping streets, near the Largo 1 de Dezembro square, on your right) with non-touristy shops, including several expensive clothes, jewellery, bag and sunglasses shops; the church Igreja da Nossa Senhora da Conceição; and the square Largo 1 de Dezembro, which has seats with tiles depiciting scenes from Portuguese history. There is also a museum, located just after the marina. It is in an old fish canning factory, which has been converted into a modern, mildly interesting museum. Most of the ground floor concerns the fishing and canning history, including the sinks and conveyor belts of the old factory, with white plaster models of people and fish (these make it look a bit unfinished). The basement has 2 or 3 TV screens showing plants under the sea. The first floor holds temporary exhibitions. Throughout the museum all the information is only in Portuguese. There is an entrance charge and the museum is closed on Mondays. There are also two shopping centres with large car parks out of the town centre: Portimão Retail Centre and, the newer and bigger, Aqua Portimão Shopping Centre. A market is held on the first Monday of each month and a flea market on the first and third Sunday of each month at the Parque de Feiras e Exposiçöes near the railway station. Buses for Portimão leave from Lagoa (www.eva-bus.com or www.frotazul-algarve.pt).

28 Text and maps © Sandra Frith 2013

Photos © Neil Murfin and Sandra Frith 2013


Sagres and Cabo de São Vicente Sagres was the site of the school of navigation set up in the fifteenth century by Prince Henry the Navigator and students included Magellan and Vasco da Gama. The remains of the fortress, which houses the Chapel of Nossa Senhora de Graça and a large compass, is the main place to visit. Cabo de São Vicente is the most south-westerly part of mainland Europe and is also known as ‘land’s end’. Many rare breeds of bird live here. The only other thing of note here is the lighthouse. There are nice beaches in this area of the Algarve, but be aware of the strong currents. Buses run from Lagos to Sagres (www.eva-bus.com). Silves It is a small Moorish town. The main sights are at the top of the hill: the cathedral (Sé); the Moorish castle, of which the highlights are the views over the town and nearby hills and the lovely cool water cisterns; and the archaeological museum, of which the highlight is a water cistern with a deep well which dates back to Moorish times. There are a few cafés near the cathedral. Near the museum, through the town gate, there is a pretty square. Walk down the hill to the bus station in the newer part of town and you can get a taxi back to Carvoeiro. Also down the hill below the castle is the Fabrica Inglês, a former cork factory which is now an area of bars and cafés with fountains, plus a cork museum. Check before planning a trip to the Fabrica Inglês, as its opening hours are not clear. There is an attractive Roman bridge over the river and along the riverfront road, near the market, there are several cafés. You can take a boat trip from Portimão to Silves along the Rio Arade. It takes about an hour each way with a one and a halfto two-hour stop in Silves. There is a lot of wildlife to see along the river. Buses for Silves leave from Lagoa (www.frotazul-algarve.pt). A taxi from Carvoeiro to Silves takes 15 minutes and costs approx. €15 each way.

29 Text and maps © Sandra Frith 2013

Photos © Neil Murfin and Sandra Frith 2013


Eating and drinking This is by no means an exhaustive list! We have not tried all the places listed below yet. Where we have I have added a few notes.

Cafés and bars Tried and tested Bar Acordeão, Estrada do Farol Tel: 282 359 274 Serves reasonably priced cocktails. It also offers snacks. The small interior has a TV showing sports, a pool table and a dart board. Bar Charly, Rampa da N. Sra. da Encarnação A great location overlooking Carvoeiro Beach. O Barco, town square Tel: 282 089 949 A lovely location overlooking the square and the sea. They serve nicely presented food. Worth trying is the avocado and prawns. Prices are slightly higher here (a fresh orange juice costs €2.50). The Black Stove, Estrada do Farol Tel: 282 184 208 Has live music and show sports. Has a large nicely landscaped outside seating area and roof terrace. Café Bellissimo, Rua do Barranco The lunchtime salads are reasonable sizes, although a bit too much mayonnaise is added to the meat or fish. A salad is quite expensive at €6.35. A fresh orange juice costs €2. Café Fino, Estrada do Farol A popular place for breakfast. It offers a full English breakfast for €7 and a huge continental breakfast for €6.50. Also a good place for people watching. Free wi-fi. Hemingways, Rua do Barranco Popular with the British. Serves snacks, but not chips. Has a quiz night. Shows sports. Free wi-fi. Hotel Tivoli Carvoeiro, Estrada do Farol The bar of the four-star hotel at the top of the hill has one of the best views over the sea and the cliffs. The prices of the drinks are a bit more expensive than some of the bars in town, but it’s worth it for the view. It has a happy hour in the early evening and in the summer the bar gets very busy at this time.

30 Text and maps © Sandra Frith 2013

Photos © Neil Murfin and Sandra Frith 2013


Jan, town square Tel: 282 350 590; www.jan-algarve.com Fusion food with pittas, salads and wok-cooked meals. Small portions and expensive prices, but a great location. It has an extensive cocktail list (although some cocktails are better than others – my daiquiri wasn’t quite right) and it is a good place to have a drink in the evening. In the summer you can listen to the live music from the town square and people watch. Highly recommended is the scropino cocktail made with prosecco, vodka, limoncello and lime sorbet – it’s expensive but very refreshing on a hot evening. Cocktails cost between €6 and €8. Free wi-fi. Jomar Snack-bar, Rua dos Pescadores Serves lovely lunchtime salads with fruit added as an extra touch. They don’t swamp the tuna with mayonnaise like many cafés do. The salads are cheaper than many other places, at €5.50. A fresh orange juice is €2. Matabixo Café Bar, town square From the balcony there are views over the square and the sea. Free wi-fi (ask for a password). A webcam showing the square is located here: www.cam2.carvoeiro.com RBC@FÉ, Rocha Brava Tel: 282 358 844 Serves food. Free wi-fi. Lacks atmosphere. Smilers, on the corner of Rua do Barranco and Estrada do Farol near the town square Tel: 282 357 304 A British-type pub run by a friendly English woman, which does cheap and cheerful food (salads, burgers, toasted sandwiches). Very popular with the British tourists. Fantastic location on the corner opposite the Carvoeiro Sol hotel. It gets the sun all day and is great for people watching. **************************************************** Not tried yet Absoluto, Rua dos Pescadores Bar Bistro 72, Rua do Barranco Tel: 282 087 709 Offers full English breakfast and other snack food. Karaoke nights, dance lesson nights. Shows sports. Bar Havana, Estrada do Farol Tel: 916 407 988 Reasonably priced cocktail bar. Bar Mexilhão, Estrada do Farol Tel: 282 357 423 Serves snacks. Shows sports. Free wi-fi.

31 Text and maps © Sandra Frith 2013

Photos © Neil Murfin and Sandra Frith 2013


Bar Talvez, Estrada do Farol Tel: 967 780 047 Sophisticated cocktail bar. Bradys Irish Bar, Estrada do Farol Live music. Carvoeiro Bar, Estrada do Farol Tel: 282 356 710 Cheers Wine and Cocktail Bar, Rua dos Pescadores Tel: 936 212 773; www.carvoeiro-cheers.com Offers wine, port, cocktails and champagne by the glass. The Cocktail Garden, Monte Carvoeiro Tel: 282 084 246 Cocktails. Shows sports. Doner Kebab Restaurante Gordo Comilão, Rua do Barranco Tel: 282 356 180 Donar kebabs and Turkish pizza. Galo D’Ouro Take Away, Rua dos Pescadores Tel: 282 357 398 Chicken piri-piri, duck rice and suckling pig. Gelados & Companhia, Rua dos Pescadores Tel: 282 110 121; www.geladosecompanhia.com Sells homemade ice cream, waffles and crepes. Glamour Gentlemen’s Club, Estrada do Farol Tel: 282 357 171; www.glamour-bar.com A strip club. Grand Café, town square Harry’s Bar, Rua do Barranco Tel: 282 357 466 An English bar offering pub food. Has live music and a quiz night. Shows sports. Free wi-fi. Ice Café, Rua do Barranco Serves ice cream. Imprevisto, Rua do Barranco Tel: 966 741 959 International beers served. Serves snacks. Shows sports. Has wi-fi. Innside Caffé, Rua do Barranco Cocktails. 32 Text and maps © Sandra Frith 2013

Photos © Neil Murfin and Sandra Frith 2013


Jailhouse, Rua do Escondidinho Tel: 282 357 381 Regular musician plays at night. Dance floor. Shows rugby league matches. J Bar Bara, Rua do Barranco Joker’s Bar, Estrada do Farol Tel: 282 183 701 Serves English breakfast and international beers. Shows sports. Karaoke nights. Free wi-fi. Kiosk Azul, Monte Carvoeiro A shop and café combined. Lighthouse Grill and Bar, Clube Golfemar (near Rocha Brava) Tel: 282 357 107 In nice location overlooking the sea. Offers English breakfast and snacks. Shows sports. Has live music and free wi-fi. Manoel’s Jazz Club, Monte Carvoeiro Tel: 282 086 869 Has an upstairs bar with outside terrace and a downstairs jazz bar. Live jazz on certain nights, but starts after midnight! Mungo’s Bar, Estrada do Farol Tel: 282 080 576 Live music, karaoke nights. Shows sports. Oficina Bar, Rua dos Pescadores A late-night bar – open from midnight. Palacio do Cône, town square www.carvoeiro.com/PalaciodoCone.htm Sells homemade ice cream and pancakes. A webcam showing the town square is located here: www.cam1.carvoeiro.com Pastelaria Central, Rua do Barranco Tel: 282 354 131 Free wi-fi. Pastelaria Doce Mar, Rua dos Pescadores Tel: 282 357 861 Pastelaria Fábrica Velha, Rua dos Pescadores Tel: 282 354 278 It is a little way from the town centre. Pastelaria O Segredo dos Avós, Estrada do Farol Tel: 969 415 264

33 Text and maps © Sandra Frith 2013

Photos © Neil Murfin and Sandra Frith 2013


Pastelaria 3 Irmãos, Estrada do Farol Rascals, just off the town square Offer a British-style Sunday lunch. Round up Saloon, Estrada do Farol Designed to look like an American ‘wild west’ bar. Live rock music and karaoke nights. Saucerful of Secrets, Rua dos Pescadores Tel: 926 176 556 Live music. Sully’s, town square A small cave bar. Tel: 282 357 787 Tiffanies, Monte Carvoeiro Serves snacks and meals, including Sunday roasts. Has a games room area. Live music. Tropical Helder’s Snack-Bar, between Rocha Brava and Centeanes Beach www.helders-tropical.eu All-day English breakfast. Sports shown. Free wi-fi.

34 Text and maps © Sandra Frith 2013

Photos © Neil Murfin and Sandra Frith 2013


Restaurants

€ = under €20 €€ = €20–€30 €€€ = €30–€40 €€€€ = €40–€50 €€€€€ = over €50 For a 3-course meal for one, including a half bottle of house wine and a 10% tip.

Note: A common custom in restaurants in Portugal is for a selection of food items to be placed on the table after you have sat down, often bread, butter, olives, cheese and sardine spread. These are not gratis items and you will be charged for each item you eat. Some unscrupulous restaurants will add them to the bill whether you have touched them or not, so always check your bill carefully and question anything you are unsure of. Tried and tested Boneca Bar and Restaurant, Algar Seco €€€ Tel: 282 358 391 Portuguese cuisine. Positioned in a very photogenic place at Algar Seco, but there are a lot of steps to climb down and up. Be prepared to pay a bit more than at other restaurants – two tuna salads and two beers came to €20. O Cantinho, Estrada do Farol €€ Tel: 282 358 234; www.carvoeirocantinho.com Portuguese food. Large portions and good quality. The generous portion of chicken piri-piri was spicy and cost €6.80. The house wine was excellent value at €8.40. They offer a choice of a gratis port or brandy at the end of the meal. Casa Velha do Pescador, Benagil €€ The restaurant is up a steep flight of steps near the beach. It is decorated with objects to do with fishing and wonderfully cool inside on a hot day. Chico’s, Estrada do Farol €€ Tel: 282 359 683 Nicely cooked Portuguese food. The chicken piri-piri is served with fresh vegetables and a mild piri-piri gravy. The homemade desserts are delicious. The house wine is excellent value at €8 a bottle. They offer a gratis glass of port at the end of the meal. China Town, Estrada do Farol €€ Delicious Chinese food at reasonable prices. The house wine was good value at €8. The desserts are disappointingly from the Olá menu. Colombo’s, Estrada do Farol €€ Tel: 282 357 605 The food is good and reasonably priced. Recommended is pasta with gorgonzola and mushrooms and meat kebab. Also the tapas selection at lunchtime is good. Lunch and dinner are similarly good value.

35 Text and maps © Sandra Frith 2013

Photos © Neil Murfin and Sandra Frith 2013


Dong Ya, Estrada do Farol €€ Tel: 282 098 585 Chinese cuisine. Good food at reasonable prices. Offer gratis rice wine with the bill. (Above the Força Portugal shop). Ele & Ela, Rua do Barranco €€€ Tel: 282 357 509 A fusion of Mediterranean and Asian cuisine. Excellent food and a nice atmosphere. It is a bit more expensive than some of the other restaurants in the town, but worth it. The service was excellent. Very small restaurant, so booking highly recommended. A Galeria, Estrada do Farol €€ Portuguese dishes. The dishes are cheap but the quality reflects this. Haweli Indian Tandoori, Estrada do Farol €€ Tel: 282 358 665 Indian cuisine. Good range of vegetarian options. A Lanterna Velha, Estrada do Farol €€ Tel: 282 357 746 Portuguese cuisine. Very popular. If there aren’t any tables available outside, be warned that there isn’t any air-conditioning inside. The quality of the food varies. Avoid the chicken piri-piri, but try the chicken Diane. A Marisqueira, Estrada do Farol €€ Tel: 282 358 695 Portuguese cuisine, grilled on the outside charcoal grill, which smells delicious. Lunchtime chicken piri-piri costs €5.50. Maxime’s, Estrada do Farol €€€€ A bit more expensive than most of the other restaurants in Carvoeiro, but definitely worth it. They offer gratis items between each course – melon, a champagne and lime sorbet, port. They also offer a separate vegetarian menu. The food was delicious and nicely presented. Service can be slow when they are busy. Tables have linen table clothes. The walls of the small restaurant are covered with a strange miscellany of ornaments. La Mona Lisa, Estrada do Farol, Vale de Centeanes €€ Tel: 282 358 724 A disappointing Italian restaurant with slightly burnt pizza and very salty lasagne. A vegetarian pizza seemed over-priced at €10. A positive point is that a bottle of prosecco only cost €12. Popular with families. Primavera Ristorante Trattoria, on the corner of Rua das Flores and Estrada do Farol €€€ Tel: 282 358 017; www.restaurante-primavera.com Italian cuisine. A nicely decorated restaurant, apart from the artwork on the door of the ladies’ toilet! Good, friendly service and nicely cooked food. The slightly sparkling house wine was delicious, but expensive at €7 for half a bottle. A pizza costs an average of €10. They have a live saxophonist on some evenings. Free wi-fi. 36 Text and maps © Sandra Frith 2013

Photos © Neil Murfin and Sandra Frith 2013


A Rede Restaurant, Estrada do Farol €€€ Tel: 282 358 513 Portuguese and Italian dishes. The flambé prawn starter is delicious. They offer a generous glass of port at the end of the meal. Taberna Portuguesa, Estrada do Farol €€ Tel: 963 316 313 Portuguese cuisine. A bit more expensive than many similar Portuguese restaurants in this area. They offer a very nice gratis port at the end of the meal. Tapas Bar, Rampa da N. Sra. da Encarnação, overlooking Carvoeiro Beach €€€ A disappointing selection of over-priced dishes, which aren’t traditional tapas. A salad, a serving of prawns and two beers cost €30. O Tasco, Estrada do Farol €€ Tel: 914 737 775 High quality Portuguese food with a modern twist. Recommended starters include fried shrimps and mushrooms stuffed with goat’s cheese. If you order the crème brûlée for dessert, it will be brûléed at the table. Os 3 Jotas, Rua do Barranco €€ Tel: 282 357 805 Portuguese cuisine. A nice location near the town square – good for people watching. The lunchtime tuna salad was disappointingly padded out with mayonnaise. A Vela, Rua do Barranco €€ Tel: 282 084 177 The quality of the food varies. Try the chicken kebab with satay sauce and steak with (a very mild) gorgonzola. There is live fado on some nights. Via Italia, Estrada do Farol €€€ Tel: 282 356 736 An Italian restaurant with a rooftop terrace overlooking Carvoeiro. Over-priced for the quality of the food. The house wine was expensive at €12 a bottle and the tiramisu at €5 was watery with little flavour. Villa Medici, Estrada do Farol €€€ Tel: 282 357 608; www.villamedicicarvoeiro.com Italian cuisine in a sophisticated setting. Service is very professional and the food is good. Vimar Restaurant & Bar, Estrada do Farol €€ Tel: 926 555 527 Portuguese dishes. Does an excellent-value three-course lunch with a drink for €9. Has live fado music on Thursday evenings. Free wi-fi. **************************************************** Not tried yet O Algar, Benagil €€ Tel: 282 358 951 Portguese dishes. Views of the sea from the terrace. 37 Text and maps © Sandra Frith 2013

Photos © Neil Murfin and Sandra Frith 2013


Antonino’s Restaurant, Rua dos Moinhos, near Marinha Beach Tel: 282 353 077 Traditional and innovative cuisine. La Bella Vita, Algarve Clube Atlântico Tel: 282 358 556 Italian restaurant in the grounds of the Algarve Clube Atlântico, overlooking the pool. Bistro Bar Algar Seco Parque, Algar Seco Tel: 282 350 449 Meat and fish dishes. Terrace overlooking Algar Seco. A Boa Vida, Estrada do Farol Tel: 282 354 169 Portuguese cuisine. Has live music. Free wi-fi. Bom Bordo, Estrada do Farol Tel: 282 356 985 Portuguese cuisine. Bon Bon, near Pestana Golf Resort, Sesmarias Tel: 282 341 496 Mediterranean cuisine.

€€€

O Boteco, Estrada do Monte Paraíso Tel: 282 357 265; www.graopara.pt International and Portuguese food. Charcoal grill. Overlooking Paraíso Beach. Casa Algarvia, Estrada do Farol Tel: 282 357 604 Portuguese cuisine. Fresh fish. Casa do Bife, Estrada do Farol Tel: 282 356 567 A small restaurant specialising in steak. It offers a ‘stone steak’ where you cook the meat yourself. Casa do Pão, Rua dos Pescadores Tel: 282 356 216 Food cooked on wood fire. Chicken piri-piri has been recommended. Casa Palmeira, Rua do Cerro Tel: 282 357 739 Seafood. Free wi-fi. Casa Rústica, Sesmarias €€€ Tel: 282 353 465 Austrian-influenced cuisine. O Castelo, Estrada do Monte Paraíso Tel: 282 357 218 Indian cuisine. Good range of vegetarian options. Terrace with views of the sea. 38 Text and maps © Sandra Frith 2013

Photos © Neil Murfin and Sandra Frith 2013


O Chefe António, Estrada do Farol Tel: 282 358 937 Portuguese cuisine with a twist.

€€€

A Colina, Aldeia da Colina, Poço Partido Tel: 925 870 073 International cuisine. Elliott’s Restaurant, Monte Carvoeiro Tel: 282 356 096 International cuisine. Terrace overlooks the fountain. Flamingo Restaurant, Estrada do Farol Tel: 282 356 066 Hidden up a driveway just off the Estrada do Farol. A Fonte Restaurante, Rua do Casino Tel: 282 356 707 Portuguese cuisine. O Frango Maluco, Boavista, near Sesmarias €€ Tel: 282 359 344 Portuguese dishes. Offers takeaway. Also has a café serving breakfast. A Gale, Estrada do Farol Tel: 282 357 330 Portuguese cuisine. Grande Muralha, Estrada do Farol Tel: 282 357 380 Chinese. Happy’s, Estrada do Farol Small, but very popular. The owner likes to get a party atmosphere going! Booking is recommended. O Indiano, Estrada do Farol Tel: 282 356 999 Indian cuisine from Northern India. Has a small eating area on the pavement outside. Island Café, Presa de Moura, Sesmarias €€ Tel: 282 342 485 Bistro-style, offering tapas and main meals. Jardim do Farol, Estrada do Farol Tel: 282 081 406 A small restaurant specialising in meat and fish dishes. Near Rocha Brava resort. Jota Lita Restaurant, Estrada do Farol Tel: 282 357 147 Meat and fish dishes. 39 Text and maps © Sandra Frith 2013

Photos © Neil Murfin and Sandra Frith 2013


Julio’s Restaurant, Vale do Milho Tel: 282 358 368 International and Portuguese cuisine. Near the Rocha Brava resort. Koh Samui, Rua das Amoreiras (off Estrada do Farol) Tel: 282 085 460 Thai cuisine. Ma-Ja’s Restaurant, Rua do Casino Tel: 912 684 052; www.majasrestaurant.com English and international food. Offers a British-style Sunday lunch. Vegetarian meals. Mama Mia Pizzeria, Monte Carvoeiro Tel: 282 357 849 Italian pizza and pasta dishes. Martin’s Grill, town square Tel: 282 357 494; www.praiacarvoeiro.com (Above Grand Café.) Monte Santo Clubhouse Restaurant, Mato Serrão €€€ Tel: 282 321 000 Part of the 5-star Monte Santo resort. It has a gourmet menu, but also a ‘Low Cost Gourmet’ menu. Oásis, Rua do Barranco €€€ Tel: 282 357 332 International range of dishes. Vegetarian meals and children’s menu. Onze Restaurant Bar, Rampa da N. Sra. da Encarnação, overlooking Carvoerio Beach €€€ Tel: 282 357 427; www.onze-restaurant.com Mediterranean, Greek and South American dishes, occasional sushi nights. Terrace overlooking the sea. In the summer months they have live fado once a fortnight. L’Orange Restaurante, Mato Serrão €€€ Tel: 282 357 297; www.algarve-restaurants.com/orange Meat and fish dishes. Vegetarian meals. Paradise Indian Restaurant, Rua dos Pescadores Tel: 282 358 759 An Indian restaurant near the town square. O Pátio, town square €€€€ Tel: 282 357 367 Meat and fish dishes. Has a nice outdoor seating area overlooking the town square. Phoenicia, Monte Carvoeiro Tel: 961 464 214; www.wix.com/restaurantephoenicia/monte_carvoeiro Mediterranean cuisine. 40 Text and maps © Sandra Frith 2013

Photos © Neil Murfin and Sandra Frith 2013


Pimenta Preta, Estrada do Farol €€€ Tel: 282 350 281; ww.iguarias-apuradas.pt International menu. Rafaiol’s Alfanzina, Estrada do Farol Tel: 282 358 280 Meat and fish dishes. Roma, Estrada de Benagil Tel: 282 341 595 Italian cuisine. On the outskirts of Carvoeiro in an attractive villa. O Salmão, Monte Carvoeiro Tel: 282 357 031 Portuguese dishes and fresh seafood. Vegetarian dishes and children’s menu. The Smokehouse Bar and Café, Quinta da Boa Nova, Sesmarias Tel: 912 379 092; www.thesmokehousealgarve.com Smoked food. Serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. Stone Steak, Monte Carvoeiro Tel: 282 357 730 Steak and fish dishes. O Stop, Centeanes Beach €€ Tel: 282 258 159 Portuguese dishes and fresh fish. Nice views over the beach. Taste Restaurante, Rua dos Pescadores and Rua do Barranco Tel: 282 358 092 Tapas and international meals. Tia Ilda, Rua do Casino Tel: 282 357 830 Charcoal-grilled food. Rooftop terrace overlooking the sea. Children’s menu. Trattoria Oliveira, Quinta do Paraíso Tel: 282 350 120 Italian cuisine. Vale de Milho Restaurante, off Rua dos Moinhos (Vale Covo) Tel: 282 358 137 A converted country villa. Food cooked in a wood oven. Vila Nova, Estrada do Monte Paraíso, Mato Serrão Tel: 282 356 011 International and Portuguese cuisine.

41 Text and maps © Sandra Frith 2013

Photos © Neil Murfin and Sandra Frith 2013


Where to stay Many visitors prefer to rent a villa or apartment in or near Carvoeiro, but there is also a good choice of hotels and self-catering resorts. Accommodation is generally of a very high standard and ultimately where you choose to stay may be down to location.

Apartments and villas Look on a holiday lettings website such as Owners Direct: www.ownersdirect.co.uk or HomeAway www.homeaway.co.uk

Hotels Baía Cristal (4 star) Located at Vale de Centeanes. Tel: 282 358 601; www.baiaalgarve.com Carvoeiro Sol (4 star) Located in the town square. Tel: 282 357 301; www.carvoeirosol.com Castelo Guest House Located on Rua do Casino close to the centre of the town. Tel: 282 083 518; www.ocastelo.net Mirachoro Praia (4 star) Located halfway up Estrada do Farol. Tel: 282 350 160; www.grupomirachoro.com Tivoli Carvoeiro (4 star) Located on Estrada do Farol overlooking Vale de Covo. Tel: 282 351 100; www.tivolihotels.com Vale d’el Rei Suite and Village Resort (4 star) Located near Marinha beach. Tel: 282 3; www.valederei.com Vila Domilu (4 star) Located near Benagil. Tel: 282 350 610; www.viladomilu.com

Self-catering resorts Água Hotels, Vale da Lapa (5 star) Located on the outskirts of Carvoeiro. Tel: 282 380 800; www.aguahotels.pt Algarve Clube Atlântico Located near Carvalho beach. Tel: 282 358 850; www.carvoeirovillas.com Algar Seco Parque Located at Algar Seco. Tel: 282 350 400; www.algarseco.com Carvoeiro Club A short drive from Carvoeiro. Tel: 282 350 800; www.carvoeirovillas.com Colina da Lapa Located at Sesmarias. Tel: 282 340 470; www.colinahotels.com Colina Village Located between Carvoeiro and Lagoa. Tel: 282 342 483; www.colinahotels.com Monte Carvoeiro Located near Paraíso beach. Tel: 282 357 789; www.carvoeirovillas.com Monte Dourado Located near the centre of the town. Tel: 282 351 600; www.monte-dourado.com Monte Santo (5 star) Located on the outskirts of Carvoeiro. Tel: 282 321 000; www.montesantoalgarve.com Pestana Palm Gardens Located near the Pestana golf course. Tel: 282 350 200; www.pestana.com Presa da Moura Located at Sesmarias. Tel: 282 380 000; www.carvoeirovillas.com Quinta do Paraíso Located on the outskirts of Carvoeiro, near Monte Carvoeiro. Tel: 282 356 895; www.carvoeirovillas.com Rocha Brava Located near Centeanes beach. Tel: 282 350 370; www.rochabrava.com 42 Text and maps © Sandra Frith 2013

Photos © Neil Murfin and Sandra Frith 2013



Carvoeiro Essential Guide