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WEMPE

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

VACHERON CONSTANTIN

UNDERWOOD LONDON

ULYSSE NARDIN

tradition An exclusive Panerai OP XXV movement revives an historical link with Minerva.

®

TUTIMA

TUDOR

[JOURNAL]

TOURNEAU

TAG HEUER

SIHH

SHINOLA

SEIKO

ROGER DUBUIS

RICHARD MILLE

RALPH LAUREN

PIAGET

PATEK PHILIPPE

PARMIGIANI

ORBITA

OFFICINE PANERAI

MOTOART

MONTBLANC

MAURICE LACROIX

LUMINOX

JAEGER-LECOULTRE

IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN

GREUBEL FORSEY

GIULIANO MAZZUOLI

FRED SEGAL

CARTIER

BREMONT

BREGUET

BELL & ROSS

BAUME & MERCIER

BALL WATCH CO.

AUDEMARS PIGUET

A. LANGE & SÖHNE

04: 2014 | W A T C H J O U R N A L . C O M THE WATCH MAGAZINE REDEFINED

agility

Panerai’s newest sports-ready timer brings tachymeter functionality to the Radiomir 1940.

style The polished platinum case holds a thick Plexiglas crystal in a nod to history.

OFFICINE PANERAI RADIOMIR 1940 CHRONOGRAPH PLATINO (PAM 518)


ŠTourneau, LLC. 2014

TOURNEAU is a registered trademark of [owned by] Tourneau, LLC


IT HAS TO BE CLASSIC, IT HAS TO HAVE STYLE. IT HAS TO BE WHICH WATCH? TOURNEAU KNOWS. World’s Largest Watch Stores: New York and Las Vegas. Locations nationwide.


AUTHORIZED DEALERS BEVERLY HILLS, CA Westime LA JOLLA, CA Westime LOS ANGELES, CA Westime DENVER, CO Oster Jewelers GREENWICH, CT Manfredi Jewels BOCA RATON, FL Les Bijoux NAPLES, FL Exquisite Timepieces MIAMI, FL Vault ENGLEWOOD, NJ The Timepiece Collection NEW YORK, NY Cellini (Madison Avenue) NEW YORK, NY Cellini (Waldorf Astoria Hotel) ARUBA, WI Gemani ST. BARTH, WI Carat ST. MAARTEN, DWI Ballerina ST. THOMAS, VI Royal Caribbean

www.giulianomazzuoli.com


Another Triumph in German Engineering!

exquisite timepieces & jewelry • established 1878 700 fifth ave. & 55th st. • new york • 212.397.9000 • open sundays 12 to 5 at the best addresses in germany, and in london, paris, madrid, vienna and new york


+ QUICK READS THE WATCH MAGAZINE REDEFINED 04: 2014

WA T C HJOU R N A L . C OM

INDUSTRY WATCH

The inside track from the world of watches—the brands, the business, the industry as a whole.

+

+ LUXE FINDER

Watch Journal brings together top products from every corner of the luxury market.

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039

| BULGARI

Angling for an advantage with a combination of steel and rose gold

LAUGE JENSEN

Making motorcycling dreams a reality through bespoke bike building

+ CHOPARD Partnering with bodywork specialist Zagato to create the next Mille Miglia timepieces

100

WATCH + EVENT Who’s doing what, where and why: Discover how the watch industry influences events, philanthropy and celebrities.

MB&F

Working its vintage-inspired magic again—this time in red gold


pa n e r a i . c o m

design a n d technology. radiomir oro rosso (ref. 439) available in steel, titanium and red gold

ASPEN • BAL HARBOUR SHOPS • BEVERLY HILLS • BOCA RATON • DALLAS FORUM SHOPS AT CAESARS • LA JOLLA • NAPLES • NEW YORK • PALM BEACH Exclusively at Panerai boutiques and select authorized watch specialists.


+ FEATURES THE WATCH MAGAZINE REDEFINED 04:2014

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SPORTS CENTERED

Officine Panerai inaugurates a year devoted to the most sports-centric horological complication.

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MEET THE MAKER

Swiss watch brand Milus is reintroducing itself in the US, but if you know Swiss watchmaking, you already know Milus.

078

SHOW + GOOD Premieres from this year's SIHH in Geneva reflect tremendous energy and ingenuity.

WA T C HJOU R N A L . C OM

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MANUFACTURING MIGHT Could America's once glorious watch industry be on the verge of a comeback?

+

INVESTING IN FUTURES Forward-looking Vacheron Constantin opts to sponsor watchmaking education.


PIAGET EMPERADOR COUSSIN The world’s thinnest automatic tourbillon watch White gold, 10.4 mm thick Piaget Manufacture movement 1270P Mechanical self-winding tourbillon movement

1-877-8PIAGET

NEW YORK - LAS VEGAS - SOUTH COAST PLAZA - BAL HARBOUR SHOP ONLINE AT WWW.PIAGET.COM


+ departments the watch magazine redefined 04: 2014

wa t c hjou r n a l . c om

In FocUS

+

MeisterSinger's modern take on ancient timekeeping technology, page 30, and F.P. Journe's Anniversary Tourbillon, page 32.

030

| 5 MInUteS WIth

060

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IndyCar champion Scott Dixon, page 60; Swiss martial arts star Daniel Bernhardt, page 62; Patek Philippe VP Lisa Jones, page 64.

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| WAtchInG the StArS

The awards season opens with top Swiss watch brands on the red carpet.

+

the cover + on The Panerai Radiomir 1940 Chronograph Platino (PAM 518)

trIAL BY FIre

It's a rare watch that survives the ordeal of the International Chronometry Competition.


Elegant Pierre Arpels Watch, pink gold, white lacquered dial.

Haute Joaillerie, place Vend么me since 1906

877-VAN-CLEEF vancleefarpels.com

Inspired by an iconic model created in 1949 by Pierre Arpels, this masculine timepiece celebrates the innovative and aesthetic spirit of its creator.


+ publisher’s letter

the watch magazine redefined 04:2014

wa t c hj ou r n a l . c om

WRIST WARS BRACING FOR CHANGING TIMES

it’s often been said that change is the only constant. the greek thinker heraclitus eraclitus is credited with putting that sentiment into words about 2,500 years ago, and it remains true. in fact, with technology advancing at exponential rates, you might say heraclitus’ observation is more salient today than ever. is the watch world exempt? absolutely not. further changes will certainly come to personal timepieces and to the watch industry, which has already weathered many changes and instigated others in its several-hundred-year history. Past developments that caused paradigm shifts in timekeeping include the sundial, the mechanical clock, the pocket watch, the wristwatch, the quartz watch, and the advent of the personal electronic device. the next big change will come, temporarily turning order into chaos but also presenting new challenges and new opportunities. anyone who’s been watching the mushrooming supply of smartwatches on the market might be wondering whether this new crop of wrist-worn computers will be powerful enough to cause a paradigm shift where watches are concerned. is the smartwatch simply a smartphone accessory that’s here today and gone tomorrow, replaced by some smaller, more powerful and sexier technology? or is it the advancing horde in an impending wrist w w war that will test your allegiances to mechanical wristwatches? if the makers of today’s luxury mechanical watches are concerned, they are not letting on. they say that smartwatches cannot be compared with fine mechanical watches any more than other electronic devices can. they hey point to the fact that their businesses are growing despite the fact that there are now F.P. Journe’s electro-mechanical Élégance, more smartphones on the planet than ever before. they say that fine watches expected to be priced around $30,000 are status symbols that have more to do with a penchant for craftsmanship than with the need for time-telling. Some, however, are rethinking fine watchmaking and producing interesting high-end hybrids. the he Slyde watch, introintro duced a few years back, comes to mind. this electronic touchscreen watch offers some of the appeal of mechanical watches through apps that replicate traditional complications, including chronographs and perpetual calendars. this january, master watchmaker f.P. journe unveiled his first nontraditional timepiece, the electro-mechanical Élégance, which enters sleep mode when not in use to prolong battery life (up to 18 years), and then resets itself automatically upon “waking.” are these the personal timepieces of the future? Perhaps. But even if not, there will be change. there always is.

—Glen B. Bowen publisher

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+ LETTER FROM SWITZERLAND THE WATCH MAGAZINE REDEFINED 04:2014

WA T C HJOU R N A L . C OM

AT OUR

SERVICE?

TIME FOR ASKING QUESTIONS

There’s no getting around it: the mechanical watches we love so much will eventually need to be serviced. Most manufacturers recommend that these amazing miniature marvels of engineering be serviced every three to five years. Why do they need to be serviced? Well, let’s compare a new watch to a new car: you probably have your car’s oil changed about every 3,000–5,000 miles, plus a yearly tune-up, right? Admittedly, your mechanical watch has a different sort of engine, but it’s an engine that runs 24/7 all year long. And it’s an engine that requires some regular love and care, and that means cleaning, lubricating, regulating, changing gaskets and more. The issue that the watch industry is facing, however, is how to handle the impending service event horizon. At many watch companies, production of mechanical watches is eclipsing that of quartz watches, and the danger is that there will soon be insufficient infrastructure in place to service these watches. Some makers are rigorously preparing for this by beefing up their after-sales service centers and training young watchmakers. But such enlightened companies may be the exception to the rule. I have heard stories of customer service fiascos, including The clearer we make our desire for watches sent in for service prompt, efficient and reliable service, that took months or even years. Watch maintenance the more the industry will prioritize may be more exacting than and invest in excellent service. an automotive oil change, but routine service that takes longer than a few weeks is more than an inconvenience; it can sour customer relations. And taking years to resolve a service issue is inexcusable. What can we do about it as consumers? We can raise the issue of service before making a purchase. We can ask questions about a watch’s warranty, the manufacturer’s recommended intervals of service and its track record regarding turnaround times. We can ask about in-store service capabilities—which jobs can be performed on site and which ones require sending the watch to the factory. The clearer we make our desire for prompt, efficient and reliable service, the more the industry will prioritize and invest in excellent service. And that will be good for manufacturers, good for consumers, and good for our watches.

—Keith W. Strandberg international editor

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IWC PORTUGUESE . ENGINEERED FOR NAVIGATORS.

Portuguese Perpetual Calendar.

year – until 2499 – is shown in four digits. In

Ref. 5023: One thing at IWC always remains the same: the desire to get even better. Here is one of the finest examples, with the

short: a watch that has already written the future. I WC . E N G I N E E R E D FO R M E N .

largest automatic movement manufactured by IWC, Pellaton winding and a seven-day power reser ve. The perpetual calendar shows the date and moon phase, and the

Mechanical IWC-manufactured movement, Pellaton automatic winding system, 7-day power reserve with display, Perpetual calendar (figure), Perpetual moon phase display, Antireflective sapphire glass,

Sapphire-glass back cover, Water-resistant 3 bar, 18 ct red gold

IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN BOUTIQUES: NEW YORK | BAL HARBOUR | BEVERLY HILLS | SOUTH COAST PLAZA | LAS VEGAS IWC.COM For more information please call 1-800-432-9330 or contact concierge-usa@iwc.com


[JOURNAL]

®

THE WATCH MAGAZINE REDEFINED

Glen B. Bowen

PUBLISHER AND EDITOR IN CHIEF CREATIVE DIRECTOR ASSOCIATE CREATIVE DIRECTOR ART DIRECTORS DESIGNERS EDITORIAL DIRECTOR INTERNATIONAL EDITOR COPY CHIEF CREATIVE SERVICES MANAGER TRAFFIC MANAGER PHOTO RETOUCHERS PREPRESS SPECIALIST ASSOCIATE PREPRESS SPECIALIST MARKETING MANAGER TRAFFIC COORDINATOR EDITORIAL COORDINATOR JUNIOR PHOTO EDITOR CONTRIBUTORS

Dean Sebring Michael Shavalier Valerie Sebring, Pam Shavalier Alvaro Diaz-Rubio, Taylor Benvenutti Marie A. Picon Keith W. Strandberg Leann Harms Ashley Willis Melissa C. Quiñones Chris Ablan, Michael Dobias, Michael Warnock Eric Espada Melissa Kelly Hayley Merrill Jody M. Boyle Kay Hodgdon Kelly Ozog David Bowen, Hayley Merrill

Adam I. Sandow CHAIRMAN AND CEO

CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER CHIEF OPERATIVE OFFICER CHIEF STRATEGY OFFICER CORPORATE MANAGING EDITOR EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT OF SALES PRESIDENT, MEDIAJET E X E C U T I V E V I C E P R E S I D E N T , C O M M U N I C AT I O N S C O M M U N I C AT I O N S M A N A G E R C O M M U N I C AT I O N S A S S I S TA N T EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT OF INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY VICE PRESIDENT OF WEB TECHNOLOGY DIRECTOR OF MANUFACTURING AND DISTRIBUTION E X E C U T I V E D I R E C T O R O F A U D I E N C E D E V E LO P M E N T D I R E C T O R O F A U D I E N C E D E V E LO P M E N T DIRECTOR OF FINANCE AND ACCOUNTING CONTROLLER A S S I S TA N T C O N T R O L L E R ACCOUNTING MANAGERS ACCOUNTS PAYABLE MANAGERS COLLECTIONS MANAGER COLLECTIONS SPECIALIST ACCOUNTS RECEIVABLE STAFF ACCOUNTANT DIRECTOR OF HUMAN RESOURCES HUMAN RESOURCES SPECIALIST DIRECTOR OF TRAINING RECRUITER BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR DEVELOPERS IT SERVICE DESK MANAGER DIRECTOR OF INFRASTRUCTURE INTERNAL SYSTEMS MANAGER SENIOR FIELD ENGINEERS HELP DESK ANALYST ASSISTANT TO THE CEO ASSISTANT TO THE COO/CFO DIRECTOR OF BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT, MEDIAJET OPERATIONS MANAGER, MEDIAJET OPERATIONS ADMINISTRATION SENIOR MANAGER, CORPORATE PRINT OPERATIONS PRINT CENTER DIRECTOR DIGITAL PRINT CENTER MANAGER PRINT/BINDER FINISHER NEWSSTAND CONSULTANT

Yolanda Yoh Bucher Christopher Fabian Peter Fain Erica Holborn Pamela Lerner Jaccarino Timothy Kelliher Michael J. Ruskin Jessica Kleiman Jennifer Dixon Gennifer Delman Juan Lopez Christopher Coleman Fern E. Meshulam Katharine Tucker Jeffrey Rovner Andrea Efland Barbara Mabie Kristen Delisio Raquel Howell, David Wulk Shirley Cruz, Shannon Kavanagh, Sherry Chelchowski Karen Theierl David Nunez Emel Emin, Isaura Figueroa, Kristy Kilian Kristen Hitchcock Lisa Silver Faber Ashley Akins Marilene Schofield Linda Siegel Monica Del Borrello Justin McCauliffe Mindy Marks Chad Simpson Patrick Swart Christopher Kerry, Joshua Hash Rick Jacobs Stephanie Brady Kathy Lewis David Bergstein Alexander R. Cruz Tamas Szakal Charlotte Auth, Casimira Betancourt, Adrian Custodio, Jessica Gonzalez, Fran Myers, Leticia Pablos, Enrique Ruiz, Maritza Severino Selene Ceballo Bart Blackwell Christopher Ferris John Kiggins Ron Sklon

3651 NW 8TH AVENUE BOCA RATON, FL 33431 561.961.7600

1271 AVENUE OF AMERICAS, 17TH FLOOR, NEW YORK, NY 10020 917.934.2800 SANDOW.COM

Watch Journal® [ISSN 2325-4130] is published bimonthly. Watch Journal® is a registered trademark of InSync Media Group, a subsidiary of SANDOW. Copyright 2014, InSync Media Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction or transmission in whole or in part in any form or by any means without written permission is prohibited. Opinions expressed in Watch Journal® are not necessarily those of the publisher. Watch Journal® , InSync Media Group, SANDOW, its affiliates, employees, contributors, writers, editors and publisher accept no responsibility for inaccuracies, errors or omissions in the information and/or advertisements contained herein. The publisher assumes no responsibility for the claims made by advertisers or the merits of products or services advertised or promoted in Watch Journal® . The publisher makes no representations or warranties of any kind, expressed or implied, as to the information, services, contents, trademarks, patents, materials or products included in this magazine. Advertisers and their agencies assume all liability for advertising content. All images reproduced in Watch Journal® have been accepted by the publisher on the condition that such images are reproduced with the knowledge and prior consent of the photographer and/or other creator and the subject. As such, the publisher is not responsible for any infringement of the copyright or otherwise arising from any publication in Watch Journal® . Printed in the USA. ADDRESS SUBSCRIPTION REQUESTS AND CORRESPONDENCE TO: Watch Journal, PO Box 16329 North Hollywood, CA 91615. Email: subscriptions@watchjournal.com or telephone toll-free 888-295-9007 (continental US only, all others 818-487-2012).

WATCHJOURNAL.COM


Freak Cruiser Flying Carrousel-Tourbillon. 7-Day power reserve. Manual winding manufacture movement. Patented ÂŤ Dual Ulysse Âť escapement in silicium. Available in 18ct rose gold or white gold.

U LY S S E - N A R D I N . C O M

For a catalog, call 561-988-8600 or usa13@ulysse-nardin.com


+ INDUSTRY WATCH

watch report | n EWS An D HAPPE nIn GS FR oM THE WoRLD oF WATCHES

POSSIBILITIES UNLIMITED Pennsylvania-based RGM Watch Company has produced its first timepiece made to be worn on a neck chain. The customordered piece is built around RGM’s American-made Pennsylvania Tourbillon movement with intricately engraved rose gold bridges. The off-center dial is handfinished silver. The rose gold case has yellow gold bezels front and back and features a pendant Sean Lau and his Frédérique Constant Slimline Moonphase Manufacture, $12,500

CAMPAIGN CONTRIBUTION Award-winning Hong Kong actor Sean Lau has become a global brand ambassador of Geneva-based watchmaker Frédérique Constant. Among his first duties was starring in a photo shoot for a new advertising campaign, and he succeeded with gentlemanly charm and grace, wearing the all-new Slimline Moonphase Manufacture in rose gold ($12,500). The actor comments, “Frédérique Constant pays attention to every detail and makes no compromises in terms of quality, which is the attitude I appreciate most. I am looking forward to working closely with the wonderful team and conveying the brand’s values to the world.” The campaign launched worldwide in December. Additional collaboration with Sean is expected in the near future. 855.55.FCUSA, frederiqueconstant.com

STAR POWER A star of the culinary world and a distinguished friend of the Blancpain brand, chef Joël Robuchon honored Blancpain with a visit to its Le Brassus headquarters in December. For the Swiss watch brand, which has long recognized certain parallels between haute gastronomie and traditional watchmaking, it was a special event indeed. In gastronomy, as in horology, specialists create

masterpieces of meticulous hand craftsmanship. An undisputed master of his craft, Robuchon has earned 28 Michelin stars and was named Chef of the Century by the influential French restaurant guide Gault et Millau in 1989. Robuchon wears a self-winding Blancpain Léman Flyback Chronograph with perpetual calendar. 877.520.1735, blancpain.com

Chef Joël Robuchon and his Blancpain Léman Flyback Chronograph, $49,200

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Custom pendant watch by RGM

attachment opposite the crown. The finished watch is suspended from a gold rope chain and presented in a custom-made musical display box. This and other custom pieces completed by RGM can be viewed on the brand’s website. 717.653.9799, rgmwatches.com LIMITED SUPPLIES The world’s largest supplier of watch movements, Swatch Group subsidiary ETA, suffered a devastating fire in one of its Grenchen, Switzerland, workshops on December 29, which caused a break in pro pro-


+ INDUSTRY WATCH

WATCH REPORT | NEWS AND HAPPENI NGS FROM THE WORLD OF WATCHES

duction and disrupted regular deliveries of watch mechanisms to customers across the industry. Although rebuilding the gutted 150-square-meter workshop and cleaning up a second smoke-damaged workshop will likely cost between 4 and 5 million Swiss francs, Swatch chief executive Nick Hayek downplayed the event’s impact on his own group but called it “a bigger problem” for companies that rely on ETA movements. At press time, the cause of the fire remains unknown. swatchgroup.com DESIRABLE ADDRESS BOVET 1822 has opened its first US boutique at 50 Central Park South in New York. The beautifully furnished jewel box of a space is found at the northwest corner of the landmark Ritz-Carlton Hotel. Bovet 1822 is known for masterpieces of timekeeping, such as last year’s Rising Star tourbillon with triple time zones and the inventive Amadeo convertible case. In addition to treasures like these, the boutique will offer a collec-

Mario Peserico and Richard Park

tion of 50 exclusive timepieces, available only at the New York location. Speaking at the ribboncutting ceremony in December, Bovet owner Pascal Raffy acknowledged retail partners Michael Rosenberg and Jeffrey Khalaf of New Jersey’s The Timepiece Collection, who operate the boutique and said, “I’m very proud to bring the House of Bovet 1822 to New York where collectors will be able to explore and discover our exceptional creations.” The boutique is open six days a week and by appointment. 888.909.1822, bovet.com WATCHING AN MVP Celebrating its long association with the world of sports, its current sponsorship of a win-

ning Swiss ice hockey team, and the outstanding performance of player Richard Park, Swiss watchmaker Eberhard & Co. awarded Park with an example of its flagship model, the Chrono4 Grande Taille ($7,300). Brand CEO Mario Peserico presented the watch to Park during a gala event at the Palapenz Centre in Chiasso and commented that Eberhard & Co. is proud to be connected to one of the sport’s most remarkable stories. As forward for the Ambrí-Piotta hockey club, Park was named 2013 Player of the Year by his teammates and club management for his leading role in the team’s exceptional season. 714.453.1622, eberhard-co-watches.ch

Bovet’s Amadeo Fleurier 42 Perpetual Calendar Retrograde and the brand’s new boutique

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TAKING FLIGHT Established in 1865, Swiss watch manufacture Zenith has witnessed the entire history of modern flight and was an early maker of flight instruments for aviation pioneers. Now, paying tribute to the Wright brothers’ 1903 powered and controlled heavier-thanair flight on Kitty Hawk beach, Zenith has introduced the Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 GMT 1903 wristwatch in a limited edition of 1,903 pieces. Based on a Zenith flight instrument from the 1930s, the new watch features a dial of distinct vintage character inside an ultralight 48-mm titanium case coated in black DLC. The watch’s Elite 693 movement is self-winding and has a second time zone function. Each piece in the limited edition is individually numbered on a plate attached to the caseside. 866.675.2079, zenith-watches.com

Zenith Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 GMT 1903, $8,600


THE SECOND WORLD WAR. 1 9 3 9 - 1 9 4 7.

Spring, 1943. And for the Allies, there’s none of the optimism associated with the season. The conflict in the North Atlantic has tipped decisively in favour of Germany. Allied convoys are easy prey for the deadly U-boats, hunting in their ‘wolf-packs’. Britain is on the brink of starvation. The situation looks bleak. In Whitehall, even Churchill privately doubts whether his famous powers of oratory will be enough to lift the nation this time. Plans for an Allied invasion of Europe in 1944 have been postponed for a year: the US will not send troops and equipment to Britain with the Atlantic under German control. This delay will give Hitler time to strengthen coastal fortifications in Normandy. German factories have an extra twelve months to build Panzers. And huge tank divisions will now form an iron line of defence along the Rhine, barring the way into Germany. The war looks set to continue until at least 1947, and with no guarantee of an Allied victory. It didn’t happen like that, of course. But it so nearly could have, had it not been for the efforts of a determined band of men and women in a ramshackle country house in Buckinghamshire: Bletchley Park. Some, like Alan Turing, were mathematicians. Others were musicians. Some were crossword experts. Yet working in eight-hour shifts in modest wooden huts, they managed to crack the German Enigma code, widely believed to be unbreakable. An Enigma machine could encrypt letters in more than 159 million million million different ways. (Your odds of winning the lottery look positively generous by comparison.) But with the code cracked, the Allies were able to follow the movements of the U-boats and route the convoys around them. And, in May 1943, Admiral Donitz conceded defeat in the Battle of the Atlantic, leaving the way clear for the D-Day landings.

It was only one of many instances where intelligence gleaned at Bletchley Park helped influence the outcome of key events in the war. The Bremont Codebreaker commemorates the work of Alan Turing, Gordon Welchman, Tommy Flowers and the 9,000 other men and women who served there. Proceeds from the sale of each watch will go to the Bletchley Park Trust, which is helping preserve the house and its famous huts for the nation. Every watch will feature actual material from Bletchley Park. The movement has an oscillating weight that incorporates original parts from a German Enigma rotor. The crown is inlaid with pinewood from the floorboards of Hut 6, the nerve centre of Bletchley Park. And while the design is inspired by a classic 1940s officers watch, everything else is very definitely 2014. The Codebreaker has a unique chronograph layout with a GMT flyback. (The first we’ve ever built in this configuration.) It’s available in two very limited editions: 240 in stainless steel and 60 in rose gold. We expect demand to be high. The men and women of Bletchley Park maintained absolute secrecy at all times, so word never got around. With the Codebreaker, this is unlikely to be the case.


+ INDUSTRY WATCH

WATCH REPORT | NEWS AND HAPPENI NGS FROM THE WORLD OF WATCHES

ON ITS GAME Swiss watchmaker Tissot, the official timepiece of Madison Square Garden, unveiled an impressive new Tissot lobby clock in the Garden’s Seventh Avenue entrance late last year. The clock, which is more than 3 feet tall, is part of Tissot’s integration in the $1 billion transformation of the New York sports and concert arena. Tissot first partnered with Madison Square Garden in 2012 and has been prominently featured during Knicks and Rangers games and on exterior marquees since that time. Tissot president François Thiébaud says, “As official timekeeper for many renowned international sports events, including the MotoGP World Championships, Tissot is no stranger to the sports industry. We are excited that our Tissot lobby clock will help welcome fans and keep them on time so they don’t miss a minute of the action.” 800.284.7768, tissot.ch Tissot’s big debut at Madison Square Garden

The Geneva boutique and Glashütte Original’s Grande Cosmopolite Tourbillon, €325,000

CO-BRANDING PROJECT Sister brands Glashütte Original and Jaquet Droz, both part of the Swatch Group, unveiled their first shared boutique on November 27 in Geneva. The former Tourbillon Boutique on the elegant Rue du Rhône, Geneva’s most exclusive shopping district, has been thoughtfully remade as the Glashütte Original

and Jaquet Droz boutique. Its harmonious presentation of the two distinctive brands is achieved through the judicious use of complementary color schemes and minimalist style. As part of a special grand opening exhibition, Glashütte Original showed its most complicated and expensive watch ever, the Grande Cosmopolite Tourbillon with 37-time-zone display (€325,000). glashuette-original.com, jaquet-droz.com BUILDING ON SUCCESS Devon is building upon the success of its first watch, the Tread 1, which introduced Devon’s patented Time Belt display, by introducing a made-to-order precious metal version. The 53.3-by-47-mm Tread 1G duplicates the size and configuration of the original but features 18-karat yellow gold components: masterlinks, crown, clasp,

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motor covers and shaft mounts. Additional parts (the indicator plate and serial number plate) are plated in 18-karat gold for a total gold weight of 87 grams. The balance of the case is DLCtreated 316L stainless steel and polycarbonate crystal. Priced at $35,000, each Tread 1G requires two months of production time. 888.901.0081, devonworks.com

The Devon Tread 1G, $35,000


+ INDUSTRY WATCH

WATCH REPORT | NEWS AND HAPPENI NGS FROM THE WORLD OF WATCHES

Wolfgang Sickenberg

+ BRAND MAKER: Works by Ferdinand Berthoud from Chopard’s collection; Chopard’s Friedrich Scheufele

details of the launch are set to be unveiled this summer. chopard.com

OLD AND NEW Chopard co-president KarlFriedrich Scheufele plans to launch a new haute horlogerie brand named for the exceptional 18th-century Swiss horologist Ferdinand Berthoud under the aegis of the Chopard Group. Berthoud earned the title of master clockmaker in 1753 in Paris and was a commissioned horologist under Louis XV and Louis XVI. He survived the French Revolution and received the title of Knight of the Legion of Honour from Napoleon in 1804. His legacy includes a vast body of work, including dozens of publications and 120 engraved plates, and some of his exceptional timepieces are now in the collection of Chopard’s L.U.CEUM in Fleurier. According to Chopard,

EXECUTIVE APPOINTMENT Swiss watchmaker Christophe Claret SA has announced the appointment of Wolfgang Sickenberg to the post of director of operations. Sickenberg has 20 years

WHIRLWIND EVENT The Manero Tourbillon wristwatch, manufactured in house by Swiss watch firm Carl F. Bucherer, has been named the winner of the 11th annual Austrian Chrono Award. The watch was recognized in the First Class category, which comprises watches priced at €25,000 (approximately $34,000) and above. Winners in the Austrian competition are chosen by the readers of two national magazines. Incorporating numerous functions and indications, the watch is designed with generous proportions and a multilevel dial for optimum clarity. It is produced as a limited edition of 188 examples in 18-karat rose gold and is priced at $98,800. 800.395.4306, carl-f-bucherer.com

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of experience in the watch industry’s commercial sphere, beginning at Blancpain. He comes to Christophe Claret from Audemars Piguet, where he managed international sales and European operations. He has also spent time in Hong Kong as manager of Audemars Piguet’s Greater China subsidiary. It’s experience that is sure to prove valuable as Christophe Claret continues to expand around the world. 954.610.2234, christopheclaret.com

Carl F. Bucherer’s Manero Tourbillon, $98,800, and Claudia Stich receiving the Chrono Award


+ in focus

BACK TO BASICS | W ATC HES FOR WHEN ONE HAND D ELI V ERS ALL THE TIMEKEEPING YOU NEE D TExT BY: DAvID BOwen

In luxury watches, plenty of attention is paid to the

A simple solution is exactly what Manfred Brassler, founder of MeisterSinger, wanted to provide to consumers—discerning connoisseurs as well as anyone who appreciates the value of living in the fullness of the moment. Brassler found inspiration for a simple and solid timepiece in the earliest forms of watchmaking as practiced in the Middle Ages. And he founded the MeisterSinger watch brand in 2001 to create timepieces that indicate the time via a single hand and a scale of hour, quarterhour and five-minute markers. INSPIRATION The brand takes its name from a 1,000-year-old German word for the champion of an annual singing guild competition in the southern reaches of the Holy Roman Empire. The brand’s logo is a symbol of musical notation that signifies a pause in the music. Cleverly turned upside down, it represents MeisterSinger’s approach to representing time. The intention is that a glance at a timepiece can provide a relaxed moment, an unhurried pause in a perhaps otherwise busy day. Despite any calming effects of this horological minimalism, none should doubt Brassler’s deep familiarity with the complex art of watchmaking and its evolution over the centuries. Working in various facets

of the watch and jewelry industry since 1984, Brassler made a detailed study of important timepieces developed over the past four centuries before creating MeisterSinger. He concluded that a single hand, harkening back to the sundial, should be the only “pointer” necessary for a clear and legible measurement of time. In other words, MeisterSinger calls us back not only to a medieval world where time was steadily measured out by the bells of the village church but all the way back to our ancient ancestors’ earliest sun-tracking instruments. COLLECTION The current collection includes 12 different single-hand models in a range of colors, and

MeisterSinger’s Manfred Brassler

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complication of functions and the complexity of displays. But simplicity can be impressive in its own way. As they say, sometimes it’s the simple things that mean the most. And, for practical everyday purposes, it’s often the simplest solutions that make the most sense.

The MeisterSinger No. 01

some in two sizes. Prices begin at $1,350 and range upward to $7,450 for the Singulator, the brand’s interpretation of a classic regulator. The watch that started it all, the No. 01 ($1,595), couldn’t be simpler. It’s a round, stainless steel timepiece, available in 38- or 43-mm versions, with a manual-winding mechanical ETA movement, offering 42-hour power reserve, and an exhibition caseback. From this basic model, the collection grew to include pieces such as the Pangaea Day Date. As indicated by its name, this automatic watch ($2,825) adds select calendar functions but retains the single-handed time indication. The Singular ($4,475), MeisterSinger’s take on the traditional chronograph watch, uses a Valjoux 7750 and adds a red chrono seconds hand on

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the central axis and a 30-minute totalizer. Time indication, however, is still achieved using a single hand and the same dial markings as in the No. 01. A red seconds scale and a strap with red stitching convey a sporty attitude. The Singulator is a regulatorstyle watch with subdials for running minutes and seconds. The main dial is marked only for hours and quarters. The design allows you to tell the approximate time using only the central hand or to look to the subsidiary dials for more detail, if you wish. Paradoxical as it may sound, according to MeisterSinger, the notion that glancing at a watch can actually be relaxing is exactly what these watches are designed to convey. meistersinger.net


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The Singulator, a simplified regulator-style watch

The Pangaea Day Date

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PRIZED POSSESSION MeisterSinger watches have won numerous accolades, including the coveted Red Dot design award, in 2010, for its Singulator special regulator watch. Other MeisterSinger watches to have received this recognition include the classic MeisterSinger N° 01 (2004), the Monograph (2008) and the Perigraph (2009). In 2012, MeisterSinger received the 00/24 WatchWorld European Watch of the Year Award for watches under ₏3,000 for its Perigraph Anthracite Automatic calendar watch.


+ In FOcus

F.P. JOURNE | ANNI V ERSARY TOURB I LLON mARKS 30 YEARS

“Invenit et Fecit,” it’s the Latin inscription that marks

every watch emerging from the Geneva workshops of master watchmaker François-Paul Journe and identifies each one as his own creation. Journe has been making extraordinary timepieces since 1983. Inspired by the great watchmakers of the past and especially by the writings of English watchmaker George Daniels, young Journe designed and produced his first tourbillon pocket watch over the course of five years, completing it at the age of 20. That was 30 years ago.

In the intervening years, Journe gained fame as a maker of superlative watches, complications of the first order, and unique pieces, and he has become a favorite maker among many of the world’s top watch collectors. Recently, to commemorate the anniversary of that first tourbillon pocket watch as well as 30 years of

The AnniversAry Tourbillon recreATes F.P. Journe’s FirsT Tourbillon buT Also reFlecTs The exPerTise And PersPecTive oF decAdes sPenT Pursuing PerFecT chronomeTry. exceptional watchmaking, Journe has created a series of 99 tourbillon wristwatches based on his earliest creation but reflecting the expertise and perspective gained over three decades spent pursuing perfect chronometry.

Journe at his workbench

NEW MASTERWORK Stunning in its simplicity, the Anniversary Tourbillon is a manual-winding chronometer with 60-second tourbillon regulator, frequency of 21,600 bph, and dual spring barrels in parallel, ensuring its 56-hour power reserve. Yet its entire movement, Caliber 1412, comprises just 178 parts. Specifications for the move-

ment include a 15-tooth escapement, a 90° anchor fork, a free-sprung balance with four inertia weights and a flat Anachron balance spring with Breguet overcoil. Its finishing is equally notable, with an engraved and grained surface on the gold baseplate, grained bridges in gold, polished and beveled screw heads with chamfered slots, blued screws

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and pegs with rounded and polished ends. The finishing as well as the action of the tourbillon and the pleasing symmetry of the movement design can be appreciated through the watch’s sapphire crystal exhibition back, which is concealed beneath a hinged and engraved cover in precious gold and silver. PURITY OF STYLE The grained silver dial is likewise a triumph of purity. Its time display with subsidiary seconds replicates that of Journe’s original tourbillon pocket watch with precisely drawn scales and numerals, engraved and filled in with black. The only other elements are blued steel hands in the Breguet style, two small blued screw heads and the maker’s marks, which now include the Invenit et Fecit guarantee. The 40-mm case is crafted in 18-karat 4N rose gold and silver with guilloché engraving on the casesides and a ropelike ring of textured precious metal encircling the crown. The vintage-look calfskin strap is perhaps just the kind of thing that a youthful Journe would have chosen for himself in 1983, had his first tourbillon been a wristwatch. So, on the 30th anniversary of his initial horological feat, François-Paul Journe has come full circle, returning to his earliest ambition in watchmaking, reinterpreting it with the style and aplomb of a seasoned master and adding new depth to the phrase Invenit et Fecit. fpjourne.com


+ FINISHING TOUCH:

The decoration of the hinged case hints at the fine finishing of the mechanism inside.

BEAUTY IN SIMPLICITY The movement of Journe’s Anniversary Tourbillon comprises just 178 parts.

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Three views of the F.P. Journe Anniversary Tourbillon, $99,000


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luxe finder Watch Journal’s curated selection of the hottest Watches and most luxurious products

LUCRA L148 CHOPARD MILLE MIGLIA ZAGATO

DÖTTLING GYROWINDER BLACK BREITLING SUPER AVENGER MILITARY U-BOAT WORX C-EXPLORER 5

GIULIANO MAZZUOLI CONTAGIRI SHINOLA WRIGHT BROTHERS LIMITED EDITION

LAUGE JENSEN PERSONAL EDITION MOTORCYCLE BELL & ROSS VINTAGE BR 126 BLACKBIRD

ROLAND ITEN FOR BUGATTI MECHANICAL BUCKLE REBELLION 540 MAGNUM TOURBILLON MOTOART ENGINE COWLING ENTRYWAY PORTAL PANASONIC TOUGHPAD 4K TABLET

MB&F HM5 RT BULGARI OCTO

VINTAGE ARCADE SKEE-BALL LE CLOS LIMITED EDITION CHÂTEAU MARGAUX BALTHAZAR BALL TRAINMASTER STANDARD TIME

GRAHAM CHRONOFIGHTER OVERSIZE SUPERLIGHT BAJA 1000

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luxefinder

FAST T

In its search for the ideal combination of performance and luxury, California automaker Lucra has developed its newest street-legal supercar, the 2014 L148. From about $250,000, lucracars.com

TIMES

ACCOUTREMENTS With onboard luxuries like air conditioning, satellite radio and GPS, this new model is expected to best Lucra’s earlier, barer-boned offerings.

OPTIMIZED Although this beast is 80 inches wide with a 148inch wheelbase, a light, one-piece carbon fiber body on a tubular steel chassis minimizes weight to optimize performance.

PERFORMANCE A powerful 4.7-liter LS7 V8 rockets the nimble L148 to 60 mph from a standing start in just 2.5 seconds.

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LUXEFINDER

GRAND TOURER

The technical and sporty good looks of the new Chopard Mille Miglia arise from a collaboration between the watch brand and Milan-based bodywork specialist Zagato, which helped to design this limited edition tribute to a famed Italian car rally. $8,100, 800.CHOPARD, chopard.com

MECHANICS The engine of the watch is a COSC-certified, self-winding chronograph movement with date and dual-time displays. It is held inside a 42.5-mm steel case with scratch-resistant DLC coating.

STYLE Zagato contributed the design of the dial, which features a repeated Z logo and angular numerals. The strap’s central groove and red stitching echo Zagato signatures from the automotive world.


LUXEFINDER

CRAFTSMANSHIP Each Gyrowinder is handcrafted in Germany. Production is strictly limited to 50 examples.

INSPIRATION The winder’s all-black finish is inspired by the world of highperformance motor racing, as is its slotted outer ring and its engine start/stop button.

BALANCE Three adjustable legs and an integrated spirit level facilitate a perfectly balanced setup. Interchangeable counterweights are used to adjust the winder for watches of different sizes.

ONE GOOD

TURN

The limited edition Döttling Gyrowinder Black is a high-concept watch rotator that enables the free rotation of a timepiece in every direction to more closely imitate an automatic watch’s experience on the wrist. $14,500, doettling.com


luxefinder Breitling accomplishes the mission of combining a rugged, military-style exterior with a refined, chronometer-certified mechanical engine with its new Super Avenger Military chronograph, produced in a limited edition of 500 pieces. $7,400, 800.641.7343, breitling.com

GEAR

OPERATION The self-winding movement, Breitling Caliber 22, has flyback chronograph functions, including totalizers for 30 minutes and 12 hours, and supports a date display.

ARMOR

UP

STEALTH

The 48-mm blackened steel case is water-resistant to 300 meters and features a screwdown crown and ratcheting unidirectional rotating bezel.

A thick, anti-reflective sapphire crystal covers the Volcano black dial, and a military-style synsyn thetic fabric strap completes the stealth black package.

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LUXEFINDER

OUTFITTING Depth-rated exterior LED lamps, a bow-mounted HD video camera with zoom and custom designed interiors are a few of the available diveenhancing options. CAPABILITY The vessel’s unparalleled performance includes the ability to cruise at 3 knots below the surface. The 360-degree acrylic pressure hull provides a virtually unobstructed view.

SEA LEGS

With a depth rating of up to 300 meters and five-passenger capacity, the C-Explorer 5 from U-Boat Worx is an exceptional submersible and the perfect vehicle for private underwater exploration. Price upon request, uboatworx.com


luxefinder

GEAR HEAD POWER Made entirely in Switzerland, the watch uses an automatic mechanical movement with built-in shock resisresis tance, frequency of 28,800 bph and 42-hour power reserve.

The equilibrium of mechanical perfection and aesthetic harmony displayed in classic automotive tachometers has inspired Italian designer Giuliano Mazzuoli to create the Contagiri wristwatch, a reflection of his love for motor racing and performance. $17,600, 305.812.3344, giulianomazzuoli.com

PERSONALITY

DESIGN

The tough DLC coating of the 44-mm stainless steel case emphasizes the watch’s sporty personality. The dial features a retrograde hour hand that folfol lows a 270° arc and then flies back to the starting point.

A hidden lever on the side of the case shifts the watch into windwind ing mode, and a simple turn of the bezel winds the watch. It’s a mechanism that allows for a clean, crown-free design.

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LUXEFINDER

TAKING

Debuting its Great Americans Series, Detroit-based Shinola manufacturing company honors the Wright Brothers’ contribution to American history with its first limited watch, the Wright Brothers Limited Edition. $1,000, 888.304.2534, shinola.com

FLIGHT

AUTHENTICITY Each watch comes with a certificate of authenticity, a leather carrying case, a leather card wallet and a hickory watch box. Also included is a leather-bound coffee table book, featuring rare imagery from the Wright brothers’ private collection.

APPOINTMENTS The timepiece uses Shinola’s Argonite 705 quartz movement, assembled and regulated in Detroit using Swiss components. The stainless steel cushion-shaped case is offered in 40and 46-mm sizes and comes fitted with a hand-stitched Horween leather strap.

ACCESS One thousand watches will be produced. Ownership includes access to Shinola’s private collectors club, with perks such as special member events, an annual tour of Shinola’s Detroit factory and priority access to limited edition watches.

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The Bixby: Waterford frames and fork, three speed internal hub, internal cables.

Shinola.com


LUXEFINDER

PERSONAL SPACE

Danish bespoke motorcycle firm Lauge Jensen is in the business of bringing dreams to life by collaborating with customers to create genuine one-off bikes—what the maker calls Personal Editions. From €52,800, laugejensen.dk

QUALITY Completion of a bespoke bike takes between 10 weeks and five months, depending on the amount of special work required, and every bike is built by hand.

CUSTOMIZATION

SERVICE

Lauge Jensen custom builds start with the maker’s standard frame and 111-cubic-inch engine, but everything else depends on the desires and tastes of the individual.

Customers enjoy access to web portal for viewing a gallery of their custom builds in progress and for finding technical information and service support after delivery.

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luxefinder

EXCLUSIVE An ultra-curved, anti-reflective sapphire crystal protects the dial, and the strap is offered in a choice of heavy-duty orange canvas or woventextured black rubber. Production of this timepiece is limited to 500 examples.

EFFICIENT The automatic movement’s flyback chronograph functionality allows the stopwatch mechanism to be stopped and restarted with a single push of a button.

STRATEGIC

Bell & Ross presents a new tribute to a futuristic icon of military aviation history, the Lockhead SR-71 “Blackbird” aircraft (1962–1998), with its Vintage BR 126 Blackbird flyback chronograph. $6,700, 888.307.7887, bellross.com

RETRO

Like its namesake, the 43-mm watch is matte black, an effect achieved by the application of a PVD coating on stainless steel. Bright orange is strategically employed to highlight the most essential elements of the display.

FUTURISM


LUXEFINDER

PERFECT FIT

In association with Bugatti, designer Roland Iten has developed a unique mechanical belt buckle mechanism that allows the wearer to obtain an absolutely precise fit. Price upon request, rolanditen.com

EMBELLISHMENT Titanium and stainless steel construction is enhanced with 18-karat white and red gold elements, guilloché and Côtes de Genève engraving and smoked sapphire crystal windows on the “hood.”

MECHANISM Handmade in Geneva, the buckle uses a mechanism that rivals a fine watch movement with its handcrafted bridges, cogs, wheels, springs and pinions.

FUNCTION The internal workings of the buckle allow the attached belt to be adjusted to the desired length with precision of 1/100th of a millimeter. A quick adjustment feature allows the length to be increased by up to 22 mm.


luxefinder

TRACK

The world of endurance racing is the inspiration behind the Rebellion watch brand and its new 540 Magnum Tourbillon, a watch with an automotive-inspired movement, 14-day power reserve and a winning carbon fiber case. CHF 270,000, 305.674.9670, rebellion-timepieces.com

TIME

POWER

RARITY

A chain-mounted red arrow gives a quick visual indication of remaining power reserve, and a smaller roller marked with a 14-day scale functions as a more detailed power gauge.

The Eric Giroud-designed 46-by-56.7-mm carbon fiber case is complemented by a race-ready natural rubber strap and exclusive double folding buckle. Production is limited to 10 examples in this case.

TECHNOLOGY The proprietary REB T-14 movement— built of magnesium, aluminum, titanium and carbon fiber—is regulated by a finely-tuned, large-diameter, 60-second tourbillon escapement.

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LUXEFINDER

GRAND ENTRANCE MONUMENTAL Standing nearly 9 feet tall, the portal is built of solid, highly polished aluminum. The creation of a single portal requires more than 150 hours of fabrication and finishing.

SHINING The piece is secured to a wall using aluminum tube construction bracing. Multicolored LED lighting provides the finishing touch.

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The Engine Cowling Entryway Portal from MotoArt of El Segundo, Calif., transforms vintage Boeing 747 jet engine housing into a dramatic circular entry for the home or the high-flying executive suite. $22,500, motoart.com


Jumbo Jet

For the executive set

747 Cowling

Conference

TABle

Bring Boeing’s “Queen of the skies” 747 into your conference room with MotoArt’s newest piece made from a General Electric engine nacelle. This high-mirror polished table seats up to 12. The custom fabricated engine stator is set off with internal LED lighting in a color of your choice.

Dimensions: 12’ / 365cm wide

US - Euro - Asia - Middle East - Ocenia


LUXEFINDER

WIDE SCREEN

The 20-inch Panasonic Toughpad 4K Tablet bests typical tablets with its expansive size, amazing screen resolution and touch sensitivity. From $6,000, panasonic.com

CLARITY The tablet’s 4K resolution serves up nearly 10 million pixels—four times the resolution of a 1080p display.

FACILITY

STRENGTH

The optical pen option offers 2,048 levels of pressure sensitivity and accuracy to the pixel level.

The slim, glass-fiber reinforced case is supported by a magnesium alloy frame.

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luxefinder

DESIGN The louvres on top of the case open to allow light to charge the Super-LumiNova of the time discs.

AESTHETIC MECHANISM The watch’s entirely mechanical movement has recessed time discs, which are magnified and made visible at the wide end of the case by a sapphire crystal prism.

OPTICAL

The digital appearance of the time display and the fastback styling of the case reference 1970s-era styles in wristwatches and sports cars.

Collaborative design lab MB&F works its magic again with a new red gold and titanium version of last year’s Horological Machine No. 5—the HM5 RT. $82,000, 888.884.0838, mbandf.com

ILLUSION


LUXEFINDER

CASE The watch’s complex case architecture plays on the namesake eightsided shape and artfully combines brushed and polished finishes.

COLOR The appealing color of the hand-applied rose gold-plated indices is echoed by the rose gold crown.

CALIBER The transparent caseback reveals a view of the automatic Caliber BVL 193, which offers 50 hours of power reserve thanks to double spring barrels.

NEW

The newest addition to Bulgari’s Octo Collection combines the hardness of steel with the warmth of rose gold and the convenience of an automatic mechanical movement, all in a stylish 41.5-mm package. $9,150, 212.315.9000, bulgari.com

ANGLES


LUXEFINDER

This recreation of an arcade mainstay combines vintage styling with state-of-the-art functionality, including a flip-style scoring display. $6,995, restorationhardware.com

BOWL

GAME STATS At just over 6 feet high and 13 feet long, the arcade game weighs about 750 lbs.

STYLE The hand-finished oak exterior replicates the original Skee-Ball Alley in retro 1930s style. A manual activation lever releases painted wooden balls.

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luxefinder

Vintage WRaPPing The bottle rests in a specially designed oak case supported by steel legs and decorated with elegant engraving. A total of three Balthazars are offered for sale.

The first Balthazars to be bottled in the history of Château Margaux were unveiled in Dubai late last year, offered by wine merchant Le Clos, at a price that makes them the most expensive bottles of red wine ever to be retailed. $195,000, leclos.net

Each 12-liter bottle is filled with Château Margaux’s 2009 vintage, reputed to be one of its best ever produced, suitable for aging for a century or more.

BIGRED


LUXEFINDER

OUT OF GRAND PIANO In a new tribute to brand founder Webster C. Ball, the Ball Watch Company presents the pocket watch–inspired Trainmaster Standard Time, embodying both vintage style and up-to-the-minute technology. $7,699, 727.896.4278, ballwatch.com

POCKET

Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Suspendisse neque magna, imperdiet vel consequat nec, tincidunt ac turpis. Quisque gravida pretium sodales. Etiam condimentum hendrerit nunc, eu facilisis libero faucibus. 000.000.0000, lorem.com

BRILLIANT Fourteen luminous micro gas tubes mounted on the hands and hour markers glow continuously to ensure legibility under a full range of lighting conditions.

ELEGANT The sapphire crystal is treated with an anti-reflective coating, and an elegant crocodile leather strap complements the watch’s classic good looks.

LOREM IPSUM Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Suspendisse neque magna, imperdiet vel consequat nec, tincidunt ac turpis. Quisque gravida pretium sodales. Etiam condimentum hendrerit nunc, eu facilisis libero faucibus.

LOREM IPSUM ACCURATE Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Suspendisse neque The 39.5-mm rose gold case holds a COSCmagna, imperdiet vel consequat nec, certified Swiss mechanical movement, Ball tincidunt ac turpis. Quisque gravida Caliber RR1105-C, and its status as a certified pretium sodales. Etiam condimentum chronometer is reflected on the enamel dial hendrerit nunc, eu facilisis libero fauwith the words “Automatic Chronometer”. cibus.

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luxefinder Commemorating its role as official timekeeper of the offroad desert race known as the Tecate Score Baja 1000, Graham presents the Chronofighter Oversize Superlight Baja ipsum 1000, featuring a Lorem case crafted of carbon nanotubes. $9,250, 213.622.1716, graham1695.com Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur

SAND

BLAST

adipiscing elit. Suspendisse neque magna, imperdiet vel consequat nec, tincidunt ac turpis. Quisque gravida pretium sodales. Etiam condimentum hendrerit nunc, eu facilisis libero faucibus.

Lorem ipsum

Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Suspendisse neque magna, imperdiet vel consequat nec, tincidunt ac turpis. Quisque gravida pretium sodales. Etiam condimentum hendrerit nunc, eu facilisis libero faucibus.

LIGHT The lightweight and shockabsorbing material of the case helps this 47-mm watch weight less than 100 grams. The case is fitted with a polished black ceramic bezel and Graham’s signature left-side chronograph start/stop lever.

HigH LIMITED

The limited edition of 200 pieces features a smoked crystal caseback revealing the automatic Caliber G1747 and bearing a special Baja 1000 inscription and the watch’s serial number.

Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Suspendisse neque magna, imperdiet vel consequat nec, tincidunt ac turpis. Quisque gravida pretium sodales. Etiam condimentum hendrerit nunc, eu facilisis libero faucibus. 000.000.0000, lorem.com

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SCOTT DIXON | THE I RL CHAMP AND HIS D RI V I NG PASSI ON TEXT BY: KEITH W. STRANDBERG

2013 IndyCar Series champion Scott Dixon is no stranger to success. He has been a

champion at every level of open wheel racing. With three championships in all and an Indy 500 win (in 2008), the New Zealand–born driver is considered the most successful competitor in the Indy Racing League. And, over time, Dixon has become an ardent watch lover.

ACCELERATION “When I first started making any kind of money in racing, I bought a Rolex Daytona. It was an easy choice because it’s an iconic watch that has meaning for me as a racing driver,” Dixon explains. “Over the years, I eventually graduated to harderto-find pieces, like some of the limited Panerai pieces. Today, I have about 35 or 40 watches, some of which I keep in their boxes as collectibles. At some point, though, I will probably end up wearing them.” True to his nature as an athlete, Dixon prefers sporty watches. “I like chronographs,” he confirms. “And I don’t have any leather strap watches—for me, a rubber strap has become the norm.” TIME ON TRACK Because it’s against the rules, Dixon doesn’t wear a watch

Louis Moinet Scott Dixon chronograph in its box

Dixon on track for Target Chip Ganassi Racing

while driving competitively in IRL races (watches and jewelry are deemed too dangerous in the event of a crash or a fire). But he often wears a watch when he is racing in other events. “During the 24 Hours of Daytona, for example, I wore a watch, and I looked at it often, because I wanted to have a sense of where I was in the 24 hours,” he points out. Not surprisingly, for Dixon, time is the

most important factor in racing. “Time is how we are measured,” he explains. “It’s all about getting around the lap the quickest and finishing the race quickest. Everything is down to the 1,000th of a second, and the competition is fierce.” “When I am in the middle of a race, I receive updates every three corners about how my lap is going, and I have a digital read-out in the car,” he changcontinues. “Some of the chang es we can make, dampers or aerodynamics, can make the car quicker in the straights but not as quick in the corners, so I need to be constantly aware of how the lap is going. Some drivers don’t use this kind of read-out, because it can be distracting—they might push harder and get reckless if they are losing too much time.” COLLABORATION Dixon has collaborated with

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high-end Swiss watchmaker Louis Moinet on a special edition two-pusher chronograph (limited to 365 pieces) bearing his name, and he was wearing one when we did this interview. The project came about through a personal contact: Dixon’s manager is good friends with Louis Moinet president Jean-Marie Schaller, and they decided to produce a watch together. “It’s been a blast working with Louis Moinet, and I absolutely love the watch,” Dixon says. “It’s a lot of fun to be involved in the creation of a watch and have input into the design. In the future, I could see doing watches with specific functions that I would use, both in and out of the car.” So, in addition to watching Dixon on track, we may soon be watching this champ’s watch designing career gaining speed. louismoinet.com


“It’s a lot of fun to be Involved In the creatIon of a watch and have Input Into the desIgn.” — Scott Dixon

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DANIEL BERNHARDT | B RINGI NG SWI TZ ERLAND TO HOLLYWOOD TEXT BY: KEITH W. STRANDBERG

the park, but as a Swiss outsider with no acting credentials, it’s infinitely more difficult. Yet that’s exactly what Daniel Bernhardt, one of Carl F. Bucherer’s brand ambassadors did. A black belt instructor of Tae Kwon Do, Bernhardt broke into the movie business in 1996 with “Bloodsport 2,” and he has been working in films ever since.

G O I N G FO R I T “I’ve always gone for it when I’ve had an idea,” Bernhardt says. “After my technical engineering studies in Switzerland, I was approached to try out as a model. Out of the blue, I started modeling and moved to Paris. From there, I got into the movie business. I have been an actor, a stunt performer, a producer, a director, and I am in love with what I do.” “I started studying martial arts at age 15, in Bern, Switzerland,” he explains. “I played soccer as a kid, but I was too tall and skinny. Then I met a martial arts teacher, and, right away, I felt that this was something for me. I became

“WHEN I DID MY FIRST BIG MOVIE, I BOUGHT A NICE WATCH TO MARK THE OCCASION.” fascinated with the martial arts, training five hours a day.” As is true for many of us, Bernhardt’s love for watches comes from his father. “He always had a really nice watch, and I remember admiring it when I was young,” he recalls. “When I did my first big movie, I bought a nice watch to mark the occasion. A watch has always been something really important.” Bernhardt connected with Carl F. Bucherer six or seven years ago and fell in

love with the Swiss watch brand. He has become good friends with CEO Sascha Moeri, who shares an interest in martial arts. “I wear Carl F. Bucherer watches, and I help to promote the brand, and the relationship continues to

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grow. I am proud that a company like Carl F. Bucherer chose me to be an ambassador. I have helped to put the watches on the wrists of some really cool people. It’s an exciting time for Carl F. Bucherer in the US right now.” WEAPON OF CHOICE Bernhardt calls the Patravi TravelTec his favorite watch. “I always choose the TravelTec,” he details. “I love the size, the design, and I love how manly it is yet elegant at the same time. Every time I see Arnold Schwarzenegger, he says, ‘Great watch.’ He always wants to know what is going on with Carl F. Bucherer.” Bernhardt tries to get his Carl F. Bucherer watch into every movie and TV show he works on—except in fight scenes, like in last year’s heist movie “Parker.” “I can’t wear a watch when I’m doing a fight scene, it’s too dangerous, especially with the TravelTec—that watch is a weapon!” Bernhardt tries to return to his homeland as often as he can. “I like to go back at least once or twice a year,” he says. “I have lived in the States for a long time, but my roots are Swiss. It’s very important for me to visit my family.” And, of course, to wear a fine Swiss watch, like Carl F. Bucherer. carl-f-bucherer.com The TravelTec in stainless steel with calfskin strap, $10,900

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Daniel Bernhardt photos by Jonas Mohr

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LISA JONES | PATEK PHI LIPPE’S NEW V P FOR THE US TEXT BY: KEITH W. STRANDBERG

The watch industry may have long been a man’s world, but that is changing. One of the industry’s most important companies, Patek Philippe, now celebrating its 175th anniversary, has been a leader in this respect, with Sandrine Stern as its head of watch creation and a lineup of amazing new mechanical watches for women. Recently, the New York–based US arm of Patek Philippe announced the promotion of Lisa Jones to vice president.

Jones was a French literature major who started working in watches when she was hired by watch auction house Antiquorum in 1998. She soon found that she had a penchant for watches. “For me, it’s about the stories behind the watches.” she says. “Each watch is unique, and each one tells a story. Watches are objects that can always be carried with you. They say something about your personality, and they capture memories—I can remember which watch I was wearing at special times in my life.” PASSION AND PRIDE Moving on from the auction world, she went to work for Patek Philippe in 2004, eventually transitioning into management. “I spend a lot of time traveling the US, visiting our retail partners,” she details. “When I am not traveling, no two days are the same. I wear so many different hats. I might be working on an event, giving a tour of the workshop, arranging training for a retailer or planning in-store renovations. I really enjoy the variety.” Jones is proud to work for the family-owned brand, which is widely regarded as the pinnacle in Swiss watch-

making. “So many customers have shared their passion for Patek with me,” she says. “And there is so much passion and pride within Patek, whether in New York or Geneva or worldwide. It’s evident in the nurturing of craftsmanship, the emphasis on quality, the commitment to customer service and much more.” FAVORITE THINGS Asking this Patek Philippe VP about her favorite watch elicits a long pause. “I have so many

favorite watches; it’s hard to pick just one piece,” she eventually responds. “In our current collection, I favor the Ref. 7140 Ladies First Perpetual Calendar. On the men’s side, I love the Calatrava Ref. 5227, for its simplicity and classicism.” She adds, “That’s today, and it could change next year.” Personally, Jones wears the Ref. 5067A Aquanaut; she also has a ladies’ Calatrava Travel Time and a 1970s Calatrava. “I am often traveling through several time zones, so the Travel Time really fits my lifestyle,” she adds. MEETING THE MARKET One of things Jones loves most is interaction with Patek retailers. “We enjoy open discussions with them, and we care about their success,” she says. “When I visit a store and talk to the salespeople who are so passionate about the watches and the sales, it inspires me as well. There are so many things to enjoy.” Jones is also particularly excited about the recent increased attention to the women’s side of the

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watch world. “Patek Philippe is growing its women’s collections, especially in terms of complicated timepieces,” she points out. “There is definitely a growing awareness and demand for women’s mechanical and complicated watches, and Patek is responding. Women want versatility in timepieces, and Sandrine Stern’s designs provide that. We’ll continue to educate customer about mechanical watches and, at the same time, create beautiful watches to meet that demand.” patekphilippe.com Above: the Patek Philippe Ref. 5227J, a classic Calatrava in yellow gold, $35,400; at left: Ref. 7140R Ladies First Perpetual Calendar in rose gold, $100,200


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CHRONOGRAPH Panerai makes 2014 a landmark year for a mechanism with a seductive illusion Âť by K e it h W . S t ra n db er g

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ince the beginning of time, humankind has been working hard to measure it. Sundials, water clocks, hourglasses and, eventually, clocks, pocket watches and wristwatches have all sought to measure time and, in a way, slow its passage. After all, if we can measure time—parse each second into tenths, hundredths, thousandths or even smaller bits—we might just be able to control it. As 20th-century author Thomas Mann wrote, “Hold fast the time! Guard it, watch over it, every hour, every minute! Unregarded it slips away, like a lizard, smooth, slippery, faithless, a pixy wife. Hold every moment sacred. Give each clarity and meaning, each the weight of thine awareness, each its true and due fulfillment.” We know deep down that we can’t slow, stop or control time. But fine timepieces can remind us to cherish and value the passing seconds, and what kind of watch does this more effectively than the chronograph? Officine Panerai celebrates its in-house mastery of the popular complication this year, declaring 2014 the Year of the Chronograph and offering up four special limited-edition chronograph references.

The Radiomir 1940 Chronographs' Caliber OP XXV, developed on a Minerva 13-22 base


Caliber OP XXV, seen through the back of the platinum-cased Radiomir 1940 Chronograph Platino, limited to 50 pieces

MAKING HISTORY The chronograph dates back to 1816, when Louis moinet produced the first timepiece capable of measuring and displaying elapsed time. The term chronograph, meaning “time writer,” was coined in 1821 when a timepiece made by watchmaker Nicolas Rieussec marked rotating discs with ink to indicate the start and stop of a horserace. And the name stuck. Panerai has been producing chronographs since 1943, when its original mare Nostrum was developed for deck officers of the Italian Navy. In recent years, as Panerai has expanded its movement manufacturing capabilities, it has also developed a full range of fascinating chronographs using new manufacture movements. Panerai’s collection now includes all of the following varieties of complex chronographs: monopusher Chronograph—more complicated than a standard, two-pusher chronograph, the monopusher uses only

Panerai has been producing chronographs since 1943, when its original Mare Nostrum was developed for deck officers of the Italian Navy. one pusher to start, stop and reset, which makes for both streamlined operation and a cleaner design. The first chronograph completely developed and made by Panerai in its Neuchâtel manufacture was the P.2004 with monopusher chrono, which Panerai calls monopulsante. Flyback Chronograph—this specialized mechanism allows the chronograph to be stopped, reset and started again with one push, making it simple to

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Red gold-cased Radiomir 1940 Chronograph Oro Rosso, limited to 100 pieces

time consecutive events. It can also be operated like a standard chronograph. Officine Panerai introduced its first manufacture-made flyback chrono movement, the P.9100, in 2013. Split Seconds or Rattrapante Chronograph—using twin superimposed chronograph hands that move together or separately, this mechanism allows the user to time events of different durations simultaneously. Panerai’s P.2006 manufacture caliber combines split seconds chronograph functionality with an eight-day power reserve. Regatta Countdown Chronograph—one of the rarest types of chronographs, the chrono regatta makes it possible to count down to the start of a yachting race, and then seamlessly continue with the timing of the regatta. In 2013, Officine Panerai presented an automatic caliber with chrono flyback and regatta countdown functions, the P.9100/R.


The dial of the Radiomir 1940 Chronograph Oro Bianco (100 pieces) with luminous markers and tachymetric scale

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The chronograph complication allows the wearer to measure and display elapsed time by adding a stopwatch-like function to a watch. Start the chronograph at the beginning of an event, such as a race, and then stop the chronograph when the event ends, and the watch displays the elapsed time.

Another view of Panerai's Caliber OP XXV


MAKING NOVELTIES This year, Panerai presents the new 45-mm Radiomir 1940 Chronograph in three versions (PAM 518, PAM 519 and PAM 520), all using a new movement developed using a Minerva Caliber 13-22 base. Minerva was a movement supplier to Panerai as far back as the 1920s, and this new movement renews that historical relationship. The resulting Caliber OP XXV is a finely finished manual-winding column-wheel chronograph movement with swan-neck regulator. The balance oscillates at 18,000 bph, just like the Angelus movement that was used in the first prototype of the Mare Nostrum in 1943.

The new P.2004/9 monopusher columnwheel chronograph movement is a variation on the maker’s very first in-house chronograph movement.

Left: The manual-winding Panerai Caliber P.2004/9 as seen through the back of the Luminor 1950 Chrono Monopulsante Left-Handed 8 Days Titanio Right: Luminor 1950 Chrono Monopulsante Left-Handed 8 Days Titanio, limited to 300 examples

The PAM 518 (50 examples) is platinum with an ivory-colored dial featuring a tata chymeter scale. PAM 520 (100 examples) is crafted in 18-karat polished white gold and uses the same dial, but in black. PAM 519 (also 100 pieces) is a polished red gold variant with a “California” style dial, which combines Arabic and Roman numerals and graphic hour markers, in imitation of the dial of a 1936 Panerai Radiomir model. The other recently revealed chrochro nograph introduction for 2014 is the Luminor 1950 Chrono Monopulsante Left-Handed 8 Days Titanio (PAM 579), limited to 300 pieces. Panerai started out exclusively supplying to the Royal Italian Navy, and the Navy commandos preferred to wear their watches on their right wrists, reserving the left wrist for a compass and depth gauge. Panerai obliged by creating the left-handed crown placeplace ment. The new chronograph retains this feature and other nods to brand history,

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such as its luminous dial of sandwich-style construction. The 47-mm chronograph is rendered in brushed titanium with a polished titanium bezel and uses Panerai’s own P.2004/9 monopusher column-wheel chronograph movement, a new variation on the maker’s first in-house chronograph movement. The movement offers an impressive eight days of power reserve. Its chronograph mechanism is equipped with a friction clutch, which enhances the precision of the chronograph seconds hand. The chrono minutes counter at 9 is remarkable because of its jumping hand, which clicks forward precisely with each elapsed minute. In addition, the P.2004/9 movement has a feature that zeroes the running seconds when the winding crown is pulled out, allowing the watch to be synchronized to the exact second. Thank goodness for the chronograph, one of the most popular and useful complications in watchmaking. No matter what we are timing—a horse race, our regatta performance or the time spent on our latest work project—Panerai’s newest chronographs do the job with inimitable style. And if we’re willing to entertain the illusion, they may just make us feel as if we’re controlling time with every activation of a perfectly polished pushbutton. panerai.com


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Shinola's Runwell Chronograph, $900

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AMERICAN INDUSTRY ★ Shinola, a brand new company with an old-fashioned name, based in Detroit, michigan, aims for nothing less than bringing industrialized watch production back to the US. Formed by Tom Kartsotis, of Fossil fame, Shinola is a partnership between Bedrock manufacturing and Swiss movement manufacture Ronda; Ronda supplies the parts and the training, and Shinola completes the movements’ assembly, regulation, testing, casing and quality control in the motor City. Total production for 2013 was around 45,000 watches, but Shinola’s production capacity is 500,000, and the company has an option on enough space in its factory—the historical Argonaut building—to increase production to 1 million units. Great looking and wellpriced, Shinola watches are catching on in a

big way. The company also makes bicycles and leather goods, hand-bound journals and gift items and has recently introduced its first limited edition watch, a tribute to the Wright brothers. Steve Bock, CEO at Shinola, says he’s amazed at the reception the new brand has received. “We have been very lucky: I think we have a great idea and it’s a very exciting concept, but the exposure we have enjoyed has been amazing. The city of Detroit and the state of michigan ichigan have received us with open arms, because we are creating jobs, training people and building this business in Detroit.” “A tremendous amount of work and investment has gone into this project,” Bock continues. “It’s been a multifaceted approach. We have people who are very experienced with watch manufacturing, so we understand quality and what it takes to deliver a product that is well designed and offers value. It starts with great design

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From left: The Shinola Wright Brothers limited edition, $1,000; the Devon Tread 2 Shining, $9,950; the Devon Tread 1E, $18,500; the Shinola Runwell Chronograph, $900

and high quality. We are trying to develop a watch that is fashionable and that you want to keep for many, many years. I think we have started well, but we have a long way to go.”

NEW TECHNOLOGY ★ The Devon Tread 1 and Tread 2 are allAmerican watches, designed and made in the US. Both watches use ultrathin time belts driven by micro-motors to display the time. It’s a revolutionary design that makes a real statement on the wrist. Devon followed up the success of the original Tread 1 with the release of numerous variants and the introduction of the reconfigured, tonneau-shaped Tread 2. There is even a made-to-order version of the Tread with gold elements. “In the three years since we launched the Tread 1, we’ve been able to build a network of around 120 of the world’s strongest retailers in 30 countries around the world, and

we’ve sold around 1,000 pieces,” says Ehren Bragg, managing director, Devon Works. “A large part of that success is a deep pool of design and engineerengineer ing talent that creates products that customers lust after. Another large part has been a ton of sweat equity that has gone into convincing well-heeled watch buyers that an American-made watch using aerospace technology is a legitimate candidate for their considconsid eration. This was especially difficult in the beginning when people weren’t sure if we were going to be a flash in the pan. However, we’ve continually rolled out new products, and people have learned that we’re here to stay.” “There are certain assumptions in the market—that little red sports cars should come from Italy, that the best wines should come from France and that precipreci


From left: RGM's Pennsylvania Tourbillon, from $95,000, and Pennsylvania 801 ES, from $9,700

sion knives should be sourced from Germany, for instance,” he continues. “It can be difficult to overcome strong preconceptions like these, but not impossible. The fact that the Devon Tread is a compelling product has helped us to do just that. When people understand the technology that we use and the craftsmanship we employ, they appreciate the fact that our products are designed, developed, engineered and manufactured in California. Our aim is to build a legacy brand that’s known for anticipating people’s needs with innovative products that exemplify the American spirit.” Bragg is heartened by the success of Shinola, RGm and other American brands. “Watchmaking in America is certainly not as easy as in Europe because of the distance from a condensed base of established suppliers. However, the modern world has made these distances easier to traverse, and new technology helps local suppliers provide parts that were previously outside their

wheelhouse,” Bragg says. “The American comeback is still in its very early days, and I think it will be long-lived.”

PENNSYLVANIA HERITAGE ★ Lancaster County, Penn., was home to the Hamilton Watch Company for more than 100 years. Now it’s home to watchmaker Roland murphy, founder of RGm Watch Company, who, after many years, has realized his dream of making an American watch with an original America movement. RGm started out, like many other watch companies, using Swiss movements, paired with cases of murphy’s own design. But he steadily developed the capability to make movements in house and produced the Caliber 801, used in the RGm Pennsylvania Tourbillon wristwatch. “We have arrived here as the result of lots of hard work, good

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timing, and determinadetermina tion,” says murphy. urphy. “The training I had gave me a good foundation. BeBe yond that, there was no grand plan, but sometimes one thing leads to another. Our customers are happy that we are making watches in American again, and at a high level. They ask me all the time to keep doing what I am doing.”

AMERICAN OUTLOOK ★ With luck and hard work, industrious American companies like these can once again be a dominant force in the watch industry. If Devon, RGm and Shinola have anything to say about it, America will surely rise again. For now, according to murphy, “On a small scale, we are making our presence known.” shinola.com, devonworks.com, rgmwatches.com


800.348.3332


IWC SChaffhauSen AquAtimer ChronogrAph edition expedition ChArles dArwin This new 44-mm timekeeper from IWC’s redesigned Aquatimer Collection represents the first use of a bronze case by the Schaffhausen manufacture. The use of this material—which was typical in 19th-century shipbuilding—is inspired by naturalist Charles Darwin’s famed voyage to the Galapagos aboard the HMS Beagle. The watch features an internal unidirectional dive bezel, controlled by the ratcheting motion of the external bezel. The monopusher chronograph has flyback capability for ease of timing consecutive events.

$11,100, 800.432.9330, iwc.com


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Show THE SALON INTERNATIONAL DE LA HAUTE HORLOGERIE KICKS OFF A YEAR OF COMPLEXITY AND CREATIVITY BY M A R I E A . P I C O N

T

he hallowed halls of the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie were filled to overflowing this past January, as visitors from around the globe—watch retailers, the media and VIP guests—flooded into the annual Swiss trade fair to discover the newest timepieces from 16

of the world’s top luxury watch brands. Astronomy and related complications— from moon phase indications to a miniature planetarium for the wrist—formed an overarching theme for many of the makers, including Van Cleef & Arpels, which inaugurated its “year of poetic astronomy.” For IWC, this is the year of the redesigned Aquatimer. For Panerai, it’s the year of the chronograph. Vacheron Constantin declared a focus on openwork movements for 2014, and Jaeger-LeCoultre expanded its collection of incredible high complications and announced plans to launch Hybris Mechanica timepieces in artistic new interpretations that draw on all of its in-house handcraft capabilities. And this brand was by no means the only one showing high complications. We saw numerous new minute repeaters, tourbillons and perpetual calendars, including some with interesting new twists. All in all, it looks as if there will be plenty to delight devoted watch lovers this year.

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vAN CLEEF & ArpELs Midnight PlanétariuM Poetic coMPlication A time-telling planetarium for the wrist, Van Cleef & Arpels’ newest masterpiece accurately displays the movements of the visible planets of our solar system, using an automatic movement with an exclusive new mechanism, developed by Christiaan van der Klaauw, and an array of precious materials: aventurine for the sky; serpentine, chloromelanite, turquoise, red jasper, blue agate and sugilite for the planets; and a rose gold orb representing the sun. A shooting star circles the perimeter of the dial to indicate the time on a 24-hour scale.

$245,000–$330,000, 877.VancleeF, vancleefarpels.com

rogEr Dubuis hoMMage double Flying tourbillon The new masterpiece of Roger Dubuis’ Hommage Collection—which pays tribute to the fathers of watchmaking and to horological tradition—is a double tourbillon that highlights the art of hand-wrought guilloché engraving. The dramatic sunburst pattern of the mainplate, which is visible on the dial side, represents a modern interpretation of the traditional art. The movement is the new RD100, which has earned the Geneva Seal. And, indicating that the watch meets his personal standards, Roger Dubuis’ signature appears on the sapphire crystal exhibition back.

$328,500– $338,000, 888.rdubuiS, rogerdubuis.com

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Baume & mercier Clifton 1892 flying tourbillon Baume & Mercier’s horological expertise is on full display in the flying tourbillon that regulates this newly unveiled timepiece. Commemorating a Baume & Mercier tourbillon pocket watch presented in 1892, this piece features a 45.5-mm rose gold case with a wide sapphire crystal exhibition back, displaying its finely decorated Manufacture Val Fleurier movement. The tourbillon mechanism, seen in an aperture at 9 on the opaline dial, makes one rotation per minute. Production is limited to 30 examples.

Approximately $59,000, 212.593.0444, baume-and-mercier.com

jaeger-lecoultre Duomètre unique trAvel time The latest breakthrough from the Jaeger-LeCoultre manufacture allows adjustment of a second time zone to the minute—instead of only to the hour—to accurately reflect the time in any country or region regardless of its differential from a reference time, such as GMT. Two timekeeping mechanisms—which share a regulating organ but have separate energy sources—enable this new world time solution. For simplicity, both spring barrels are wound via a single crown. The 498-component Caliber 383 is held inside a 42-mm rose gold case.

$46,300, 800.552.8463, jaeger-lecoultre.com


Cartier Rotonde de CaRtieR eaRth and Moon Cartier photo by Laziz Hamani © Cartier 2013

Technical creativity is the mark of this new addition to Cartier’s Fine Watchmaking collection, which displays the phase of the moon on demand. The watch’s tourbillon regulating mechanism serves as the backdrop for this astrological complication. When the moon phase is not in use, the tourbillon is fully visible in its dial aperture at 6. When the moon indication is activated, a blue disc moves in front of the tourbillon, creating a crescent that replicates the view of the moon. A second time zone is indicated by a 24-hour disc. Production is limited to 50 pieces.

$271,000, diamond bezel version $665,000, 800.CaRtieR, cartier.com

Greubel Forsey GMt PlatinuM The team of Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey present a new platinum version of their 2011 GMT watch, which presents a striking visual representation of the world’s time zones by means of a miniature rotating globe. The back of the watch features a display of 24 time zones keyed to major cities and indicating the regions that observe daylight saving time in the summer. A 24-second inclined tourbillon, at 5 on the dial side, enhances isochronism, and its small size allows the diameter of the shaped 950 platinum case to be kept to 43.5 mm.

$650,000, 212.221.8041, greubelforsey.com


PARMIGIANI FLEURIER TONDA MÉTROGRAPHE Designed with today’s urbanite in mind, this new chronograph features a subtle asymmetry among its clean lines. The 40-mm steel case features characteristic Tonda lugs on the left side and elongated lugs with integrated chronograph pushbuttons on the right. The automatic-winding Caliber PF315 comprises 351 components, including 46 jewels and two series-coupled barrels. The watch is also offered in a steel and titanium version.

$12,200–$12,900, 949.489.2885, parmigiani.ch

PIAGET ALTIPLANO 38 MM 900P Merging the movement with the case, Piaget has achieved a new level of record-breaking slimness. At just 3.65 mm thin, the Altiplano 38 mm 900P is the world’s thinnest mechanical watch. Piaget’s space-saving strategy employs the back of the case as the mainplate of the movement. Bridges and gear train are visible on the dial side. Perfection of the design required three years in development, during which watchmakers and case constructors worked together at every stage. This marvel is offered in white gold, rose gold and diamond-set versions.

$26,200–$32,700 with diamond version’s price upon request, 877.8P IAGET, piaget.com

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Montblanc TimeWalker Chronograph 100 The sportiest timepiece yet to emerge from German luxury powerhouse Montblanc, the TimeWalker Chronograph 100 is a special edition watch in titanium and carbon, limited to 100 examples, for North America only. It holds an all-new 100th-ofa-second manufacture chronograph caliber, produced in Montblanc’s Villeret workshops. The monopusher chronograph mechanism has its own 360,000-bph balance and gear train. The open dial design shows off the complexity and the traditional finishing of the movement.

$63,900, 800.995.4810, montblanc.com

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A. LAnge & SÖhne Grand LanGe 1 Moon Phase The moon phase display takes pride of place on the dial of this new timepiece. It’s the subject of some mechanical wizardry as well. A seven-gear transmission tracks the moon with extraordinary accuracy (to within one minute per lunar cycle), meaning that no adjustment becomes necessary for more than 122 years. The brilliant blue moon disc is decorated with 300 laser-cut stars of various sizes for a realistic display. The 41-mm watch uses manual-winding manufacture Caliber L095.3 and is offered in rose gold, yellow gold and platinum versions.

$47,800–$62,600, 800.408.8147, alange-soehne.com

VAcheron conStAntin PatriMony traditioneLLe 14-day tourbiLLon oPenworked The meticulously pierced and hand-engraved Caliber 2260 SQ features curves and angles that evoke Gothic architecture. The 231-component movement is developed and manufactured in house by Vacheron Constantin and has earned the Geneva Seal. Its 336-hour power reserve, with indication, equates to 14 days without winding, and its tourbillon regulating mechanism enhances isochronism. The movement is cased in platinum and sealed between front and back sapphire crystals.

$362,300, 855.729.1755 vacheron-constantin.com


AudemArs Piguet Royal oak ConCept GMt touRbillon The latest revelation in Audemars Piguet’s Concept series frames an architectural array of indications with an octagonal white ceramic bezel, a sculpted titanium case and an integrated rubber strap. The white ceramic material—said to be nine times harder than steel—appears again, in the exposed movement, in the form of an hourglass-shaped bridge. The manualwinding Caliber 2930 features twin barrels for 10-day power reserve, a one-minute tourbillon and a second time zone display.

$202,100, 888.214.6858, audemarspiguet.com

PAnerAi poCket WatCh 3 Days - 50MM Panerai creates an elegant modern accessory based on a form from the past in its newest pocket watch. The 50-mm case takes the cushion shape of the maker’s Radiomir wristwatch case. The hinged back cover opens to reveal Panerai’s manual-winding manufacture Caliber P.3001/10 with indication of its three-day power reserve on the movement. The pocket watch is produced in two limited editions of 50 pieces in polished 18-karat red gold (PAM 447) and 50 pieces in polished 18-karat white gold (PAM 529), each piece with its own matching nautical-style chain.

approximately $71,800–$75,700, 877.paneRai, panerai.com

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Ralph lauRen Sporting Automotive Flying tourbillon The second tourbillon wristwatch to emerge from the Ralph Lauren brand, the new Sporting Automotive Flying Tourbillon uses a self-winding Swiss movement, Caliber RL167, manufactured by La Fabrique du Temps exclusively for Ralph Lauren. The movement’s gold-plated rotor is visible though a smoked sapphire crystal caseback. The combination of black case and dial finishes with brown elm burl wood introduces a new aesthetic, dubbed Black Safari, to the timepiece line.

$80,000, 888.475.7674, ralphlaurenwatches.com

RichaRd Mille rm 35-01 rAFAel nAdAl Honoring tennis champion Rafael Nadal, who took 10 championship titles in 2013 and regained his No. 1 ranking after an injury dropped him to No. 5, Richard Mille presents the new RM 35-01, featuring a case created using NTPT carbon. The undulating pattern of this exclusive case material results from special carbon fiber weaving techniques. The extraordinarily shock-resistant and lightweight RMUL3 manual-winding movement is built of grade 5 titanium and is highly skeletonized.

$120,000, 310.205.5555, richardmille.com


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vACHeROn COnStAntin nORtH AMeRiCA iS inveStinG in FUtUReS

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acheron Constantin NA, under the direction of CEO Hugues de Pins, is investing in futures. The Swiss luxury watch brand is betting that the carefully selected students of the Fort Worth– based North American Institute of Swiss Watchmaking (NAIOSW) have what it takes to succeed as watchmakers working in the Swiss tradition. Placing its wager, Vacheron Constantin has committed to sponsoring several classes of watchmakers-in-training by providing tuition and study materials plus extra-curricular experiences that provide students

wRitten By

with insight into the venerable Swiss watch brand. The endeavor is something of a special project for de Pins, who seems personally invested, in addition to being professionally invested, in the outcome. The CEO has made a habit of visiting the school several times each year to speak to students and share his brand’s perspective on, for example, career paths in watchmaking and the importance of after-sales service. “I’ve gotten to know the students over time. I enjoy spending time with them, and I’m always incredibly impressed by them.”

MARie A. PiCOn

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Coursework in progress at the naiosw and a detail of a VaCheron Constantin tourbillon moVement

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School photos by Shana Anderson

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“ThedemandforwaTchmakersishuge.Theyearngood salariesandenjoyvirTuallyguaranTeedemploymenT andlifelongjobsecuriTy.”—Hugues de Pins, Vacheron Constantin THE MARKET

THE PROGRAM

With the number of fine mechanical watches increasing all the time—Vacheron Constantin celebrated the production of its one-millionth watch last year—opportunities for skilled watchmakers are exploding. And preparing tomorrow’s work force was clearly a motivating factor in the brand’s decision to provide funding. “We want to help students to become technically skilled watchmakers,” says de Pins. “The demand for watchmakers is huge. They earn good salaries and enjoy virtually guaranteed employment and lifelong job security.” Career prospects include employment at Richemont’s North American service center, with which the school shares a building, or going to work in one of Vacheron Constantin’s boutiques, many of which keep a watchmaker on staff.

At the NAIOSW, the first day of classes is always cause for celebration, especially when a brand new class of students arrives to begin their training. Last September, the school welcomed its fourth incoming class since opening its doors in 2008, and de Pins was there to greet the students personally and offer a toast to their success at a special reception at the end of the day. Admission is extremely competitive, with only about 5 percent of applicants gaining entrance. John Sokol is Richemont’s director of technical services for North America and the director of the school. He describes the selection process: for every new class, 120 or so applications are received and vetted. Of those, 18 candidates will be interviewed and tested for

mechanical aptitude and for their ability to follow detailed instructions. No more than eight, and generally fewer, will be admitted. Having survived the rigorous entrance exams, students stand a good chance of succeeding in the 3,000-hour program. Successful completion of the program includes passing a two-day final exam. As a special bonus, Vacheron Constantin offers outstanding graduates the opportunity to travel to its Geneva manufacture to spend a few weeks with master watchmakers during the summer. The school graduated three students from its firstever class, five from its second class, and six from the third class are set to receive their diplomas this August. According to Sokol, Richemont has hired every one of the graduates to date. The first day of school for last September’s incoming class of six students—who


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From leFt: ToolS oF THe tRade; StUdEnTs of THe 2014 gradUaTing clasS; coUrSewoRk

come from all around the country—was all about preparation. They received their schedules and their books. They also received their tools and learned to set up and maintain their workbenches. They were issued school shoes—which are changed into on-site, so that street shoes never enter the workshop—and a blue coat, signifying their status as novices and students of micromechanics. When they advance to the watchmaking curriculum, later in the program, they will exchange the blue coats for white ones. The new students—two women and four men—radiated enthusiasm as they introduced themselves to de Pins and to each other. Three had held sales jobs before applying to the school; one is the son of a watchmaker and had been working as a technician, changing batteries and straps; others had only recently become

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donE UNdeR a microscope

aware of watchmaking as a career; several recalled feeling an immediate conviction that this was the career for them; and all expressed a passion for technical perfection and an admiration for the traditions of Swiss watchmaking. As they tackle the challenges ahead, these students can look to the trajectory of earlier graduates for inspiration and encouragement.

THE RETURNS NAIOSW graduate Benny Hernandez completed the watchmaking program in spring of 2013 and spent two weeks with Vacheron Constantin in Geneva before returning to Fort Worth and beginning a new job in the Richemont North America service center. Hernandez grew up in Idaho and always loved science,

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math, mechanics and problem solving. He says his father’s clock repair business provided his first exposure to mechanical timekeeping. “I entered the program with no expectations,” he says modestly, although he seems like a natural talent. “I didn’t expect to have success.” Not only did he succeed, he excelled, even winning a contest for a date mechanism module he designed. Asked about his career ambitions, he responds, “Eventually, I would like to return to Idaho and work with my Dad. Until then, I plan to take advantage of every opportunity available in the field that I love.” If future graduates have anything like Hernandez’s talent and passion, what a great return on investment their careers will represent. vacheron-constantin.com, iosw.com


C

A C R T E A H IF YOU KNOW SWISS WATCHMAKING, THEN YOU ALREADY KNOW MILUS

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AI T S

BY M ARIE A. PICON

T

he world of the Swiss watchmaker is one of intense focus on minute details, where the objective is to transform brute raw materials into elegant and accurate timekeeping machines through the application of ingenuity and hand craftsmanship. The true watchmaker is an artist as much as an engineer, one who looks at a block of steel or brass or gold and sees a precision timekeeping instrument in the making, and one who delights in performing incredible micromechanical feats. Swiss watch brand Milus is a firm possessed of a similar singularity of purpose. It’s a brand that has been producing quality timekeepers, non-stop, since 1919. And it’s a brand whose pursuit of perfection is evident in every timepiece that leaves its Bienne, Switzerland, factory. It’s also perhaps less well known, especially in the US, than it should be. Now, with a new North American distribution arrangement in place, Milus is eager to reintroduce itself to an American audience.

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The Milus Tirion RĂŠpĂŠtition Minutes TriRetrograde, $314,200


MEET THE MAKER The universe of Milus is one of precision, playfulness and individuality. Managing director Cyril Dubois is making sure that it remains so. Appointed chief executive in 2011, Dubois came up through the ranks of Milus’ production department. He is an engineer by training, who began his career in the automotive industry. When circumstances later led him to the watch industry, he joined Milus in 2004 to work on product development. “My first project was the development of the Herios TriRetrograde, which we did in collaboration with Jean-Marc Wiederrecht,” says Dubois. And it was no mean task, considering that the namesake complication was the first of its kind. As Dubois recalls it, however, the biggest challenge of the project was to add a date indication. Introduced to the market in 2006, Milus’ TriRetrograde complication has become the brand’s signature. It divides the indication of the seconds among three subsidiary sectors on the dial, each with a retrograde hand. The three small hands traverse their sectors in turn, creating a never-endnever-end ing dance on the dial. The enthrallenthrall ing action of this complication perfectly communicates the brand’s characteristic technical precision as well as its charactercharacter istic playfulness and individuality. It’s delightful, amazingly fun to watch and unlike anything else out there.

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Managing director Cyril Dubois

““It’s It’s very important for a watch brand to have a story.” —C y r i l Dub ois

PURSUIT OF PERFECTION Dubois makes sure that his brand contincontin ues to put first things first, namely, that the pursuit of perfection in every aspect of precision watchmaking trumps all else. Great attenatten tion is paid to details such as the perlage,, Côtes de Genève and heat-blued screws that decorate each movement—even if they will never be visible once the watch is assembled. In this way, Milus is very much a Swiss watchmaker’s watch. Dubois says, “These methods of finishing are so important to us because they are characteristic of the Swiss tradition.”

The Tirion TriRetrograde Seconds Skeleton, from $9,300

Perhaps no timepiece reflects Milus’ pursuit of perfection better than its Tirion Répétition Minutes TriRetrograde, a chiming watch that indicates the time, musically, on demand. Its mechanical striking mechanism uses two steel hammers on stainless steel bearings that ring out a low tone for the hours, a high-low double tone for the quarter hours and a high tone

for the minutes. Apart from the watch’s sonic characteristics, Dubois wanted the elements of the display to be perfectly harmonious. When he saw that the blue of the prototype’s hour markers didn’t exactly match the color of the dial’s blued steel hands—and the material of the markers could not be made any bluer—he commissioned the handmaker to create new hour markers out of the same blued steel as the hands. He says, “Quality is very important to me. Sometimes it’s expensive, but for a product like the Répétition Minutes TriRetrograde, it is very important to get the details exactly right.”

Cyril Dubois photo by Premtim Hajdari

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The original Milus Snow Star watch was used as part of the US Navy’s “life barter kits,” supplied to US Navy pilots in the 1940s. The kits contained valuables that could be used as currency that might ensure their safety should they be capcap tured behind enemy lines. The 2012 recreation of the watch was issued in two limited edition verver sions—rose gold and stainless steel—each with a kit containing a set of aviation-themed cuff links, a military-style ID tag and a second strap.

The Snow Star Heritage kit in rose gold, $29,900

Designer rendering of the new Tirion Diver, $4,500

POWER OF PERSONALITY Milus’ Highly Personal communications campaign highlights an important element of the brand’s philosophy: that there is luxury to be found in being completely oneself at all times. And it’s easy to see that Milus has established a pattern of following its own path. Looking to its own heritage instead of market trends, Milus developed one of its most successful products to date: the Snow Star Heritage, launched in 2012. A limited edition recreation of a World War II–era Milus watch with a connection to US military history, the watch immediately found an audience of enthusiastic collectors. This year, the maker delves into its archives again and comes up with

inspiration for a new dive watch, based on its heritage of dive watches produced in the 1970s and ’80s, particularly the Archimedes diver, named for the Greek mathematician and physicist who described the measurement of volume via the displacement of water. Not surprisingly, this idea connected to a watch held particular appeal for Dubois as an engineer. The new Tirion Diver ($4,500) is a classically styled 42-mm watch with rotating bezel and rubber strap. Concealed by the solid steel back, Milus’ characteristic in-house finishing decorates every part of the automatic-winding Swiss ETA movement. It’s another example of watchmaking informed by a quest for perfection, a bit of playfulness and unwavering brand identity. If it’s half as successful as either Milus’ TriRetrograde watches or its historically inspired Snow Star Heritage, it will be quite a triumph, indeed. milus.com

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MILITARY HISTORY


+ Watch JOurnal revieW GOLDEN GLOBES | WATCHING THE RED CARPET

for the advent of this year’s awards season, the hunt for the accessories that would complete their black-tie ensembles was on. And a number of notable Hollywood personalities appeared at the 71st Golden Globes in January with some equally notable watches on their wrists. For presenters Matt Damon and Sean Combs, slim Piaget Altiplano watches were the ideal choice. Damon, well known for his leading role in the Bourne trilogy, chose the classic 40-mm Altiplano in white gold on a black alligator strap. Combs dazzled the crowd with his 41-mm white gold Altiplano Exceptional set with 577 brilliant-cut and baguette-cut diamonds. Piaget has longstanding links to Hollywood, including as the lead sponsor of the Film Independent Spirit Awards, and the Altiplano model is a formal wear favorite of leading men, including Hugh Jackman, Aaron Eckhart and Jeremy Renner, because its ultra-slim profile slips so easily under a starched cuff. Fencer, Olympic silver medalist and “E! News” correspondent Tim Morehouse attended the festivities with a JeanRichard Terrascope on his wrist. Founder of the non-profit

Tim Morehouse wearing a JeanRichard Terrascope

Matt Damon wearing the Piaget 40-mm Altiplano

Fencing in the Schools, Morehouse has a close affinity with the Swiss watch brand and represents the brand’s philosophy—of exploration and living life to the fullest—to a tee. The sporty, self-winding 44-mm Terrascope has a cushionshaped case and a dial with vertical satin finishing. Onstage inside the Beverly Hilton, the venue of the muchanticipated awards presentation, actor Robert Downey Jr. announced the nominees for best actress—and the winner, Amy Adams—while wearing a Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hometime Aston Martin. The 40-mm stainless steel watch’s understated sportiness perfectly complements Downey’s rakish persona and represents

the epitome of the Swiss watch manufacture’s iconic Master Collection, which emphasizes strong lines, elegance and functionality in a classic round watch. This particular model features automatic winding, dual time zones with travel time zone synchronized to the date display and quick adjustment of time zones and date via the crown. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Hometime Aston Martin

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Chopard was also represented at the Golden Globes, but not with a watch. Instead, actress Cate Blanchett appeared in earrings from Chopard’s Green Carpet Collection, putting the spotlight on the issue of sustainable luxury. Proving that ethics and aesthetics can coexist, Chopard created the earrings using fair-mined 18-karat gold from South America and 72 marquise-cut diamonds, certified by the Responsible Jewellery Council. It’s all part of an ambitious program at Chopard that will set new environmental and social standards for jewelry. Chopard is the first luxury jeweler to develop a partnership with Alliance for Responsible Mining (ARM). Livia Firth of the Green Carpet Challenge, with which Chopard is aligned, comments, “Cate Blanchett is both a fashion icon and a woman with an intuitive grasp of the issues that matter. By choosing to wear Chopard jewels for the Golden Globes, she is supporting a profound and dynamic shift toward sustainable luxury that affects change right at the beginning of the supply chain.” chopard.com, jaeger-lecoultre. com, jeanrichard.com, piaget.com

Morehouse photo courtesy of Tim Morehouse

As A-list celebs prepared


SXC Steel GMT No. 5127: 45.5mm, black PVD plated stainless steel case, screw down crown & case back, anti-reflective sapphire crystal, stainless steel bidirectional rotating bezel, GMT function for second time zone, genuine black leather strap with red contrast stitching and red lining, black PVD signature buckle, water resistant to 200 meters, and Luminox self-powered illumination. Swiss Made. Preferred timepiece of SXC Astronauts and Test Pilots.

www.luminox.com facebook.com/Luminox


+ Watch JOurnal revieW

rewarding endeavor | INTeRNATIONAL CHRONOMeTRy COMpeTITION ANNOuNCeS WINNeRS TexT By: Keith w. Strandberg

Chronometry paired

with competition—it’s an old idea that is making a comeback but not without both resistance and controversy. The modern, biennial International Chronometry Competition introduced by the Musée d’Horlogerie du Locle in 2009 puts entered timepieces through a tortuous program of testing in an effort to identify the best timekeepers being produced today. The testing involves three rounds of measurements carried out in the laboratories of the Besançon Observatory in France and the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute in Biel, Switzerland. The watches also undergo exposure to severe magnetic fields and shocks at the Haute École Arc in Neuchâtel, Switzerland, before the final round of timekeeping measurements. To put this in perspective, both the current COSC certification for chronometer precision and the prestigious Geneva Seal certification involve only one round of testing. The International Chronometry Competition requires that a watch meets the international chronometer standard three times in succes-

sion, the third time after exposure to intense shocks and magnetic fields. Also, the watches are not allowed to be adjusted at any time after they are submitted to the competition. With such stringent criteria, it’s no wonder that participation is a hard sell. Of all the watchmakers in the world, only 17 participated in the latest edition of the competition, entering a total of 38 watches into the contest’s three categories: Classic (for non-tourbillon watches), Tourbillon, and School (for watches produced by students). By design, the International Chronometry Competition is extremely difficult to win, and any watches that survive the competition are to be applauded. The winners were an-

nounced on October 24, 2013. In the Classic category, of the 20 pieces entered, 12 of them passed all three tests. In the tourbillon category, there were seven entries, and a tourbillon by Les Ateliers L. Leroy was the only survivor; the others could not withstand the ordeal of shocks and magnetism. And out of 12 entries in the School category, two were successful. (It is worth noting that the last time the contest was held, no school entries passed all the tests.) “I think the competition sets a good benchmark,” says Jean-Marie Schaller, president, Louis Moinet, which took the third-place prize in the Classic category. “The chronometry competitions that were held decades and centuries before

From left: Tissot Concours Calibre A86.502, L. Leroy Osmior Tourbillon Régulateur, Louis Moinet Mechanograph

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winnerS’ CirCLe ClassiC Category: firSt PLaCe: Tissot

Concours Calibre A86.502 SeCond PLaCe: Tissot Concours Calibre A86.501 third PLaCe:

Louis Moinet Mechanograph tourbillon Category: firSt PLaCe:

Les Ateliers L. Leroy sChool Category: firSt PLaCe:

Mathieu Douik

SeCond PLaCe:

Maxime Bettinelli

were standards of excellence, and they were taken seriously by watchmakers.” Given the number of watches that fail, should the criteria be relaxed? Competition organizers don’t think so. Some makers will opt not to participate because they don’t want to lose, but that’s something the International Chronometry Competition is willing to accept in order to keep its standards high. This way, a win is really something worth celebrating. “The big names from historical chronometry championships, brands like Longines, Zenith and Rolex, should come back,” Schaller comments. “There are many awards around the world, but this one is based on technology. I hope that more companies come into it and take it seriously.” The deadline for submissions in the next International Chronometry Competition is January 31, 2015. concourschronometrie.org


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+ EVENT WATCH

EVENT REPORT | WHO ’ S D OING WHAT, WHERE AND WHY I N THE WATCH I ND USTRY

SNOW DAY

Kicking off a new era in the sport of snow polo, Piaget inaugurated the Piaget World Snow Polo Championship in Aspen this past winter. Piaget acted as official timekeeper of the round robin tournament as well as co-host and competitor. Team Piaget, featuring top-ranked Argentine player Gonzalito Pieres and Aspen Valley Polo Club co-founder Marc Ganzi battled it out against the St. Regis and Audi teams. With the help of polo star Nacho Figueras, who scored the final goal, the St. Regis team took the tournament, and Piaget North America president Larry Boland presented the trophy. Boland says, “It was an exciting day of polo in one of the most picturesque settings in America.” In addition to the Piaget World Snow Polo World Championship, Piaget is the title sponsor of the USPA Piaget Gold Cup and the Piaget Hamptons Cup. 877.8PIAGET, piaget.com

Susan Sarandon, Daniel Craig, Paul Haggis and Pascal Raffy at the APJ gala

NOBLE CAUSE

A supporter of the charitable organization Artists for Peace and Justice (APJ) for the past two years, Bovet 1822’s Pascal Raffy joined actors Daniel Craig, Susan Sarandon and others in New York for a holiday gala that raised more than $700,000 to benefit children’s education in Haiti. The organization was founded five years ago by Academy Award–winning writer and director Paul Haggis (“Casino Royale,” “Crash”), a friend of Raffy’s. APJ has already provided more than 2,200 Haitian children with the opportunity to continue their education beyond fifth grade by building Haiti’s largest free high school and its first free vocational college. Committed to continuing these efforts, Bovet announced its intention to continue as an APJ partner for a minimum of five years. 888.909.1822, bovet.com MILLION DOLLAR BABY

The Breguet Museum of Geneva, Switzerland, has announced the acquisition at auction of three historically significant Breguet pocket watches. The first is the Breguet No. 5015, created in 1830, which incorporates an early keyless winding and setting system; it was acquired for CHF 38,000. Breguet No. 4420, acquired for CHF 240,000, was originally sold to King George IV of Great Britain in 1825. The rarest and most valuable of the three watches, however, is the Breguet No. 4691, an extra-flat half-quarter repeater and one of the most complicated thin watches created by Breguet, and its price exceeded CHF 1 million. All three pieces join the collection of the Breguet Museum, which preserves the manufacture’s historic and cultural legacy. 866.458.7488, breguet.com Breguet No. 4420, acquired by the Breguet Museum for approximately $265,000

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From top: Gonzalito Pieres, Larry Boland and Facundo Pieres in Aspen; Nic Roldan and Nacho Figueras celebrating the St. Regis win


GENEVA GEM

Guy Fieri, Jay Leno and Leno’s CT Scuderia City Racer, $2,995

For a week in late January, Geneva’s Palexpo convention center was transformed into the ultra-luxe showplace that is Switzerland’s annual Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie. The 2014 SIHH hosted 16 exhibiting brands, including Richemont Group brands A. Lange & Söhne, Baume & Mercier, Cartier, IWC, JaegerLeCoultre, Montblanc, Panerai, Piaget, Roger Dubuis, Vacheron Constantin and Van Cleef & Arpels; the Richemont Group joint venture brand Ralph Lauren Watch and Jewelry; and independent brands Audemars Piguet, Greubel Forsey, Parmigiani Fleurier and Richard Mille. Also hosted were thousands of invited guests, retail partners and representatives of the media from around the world, eager to discover the brands’ newest horological masterpieces. Read about some of this year’s novelties beginning on page 78. sihh.org SIHH transforms Geneva’s Palexpo

RACER STYLE

Former “Tonight Show” host and well-known motor enthusiast Jay Leno showed off a CT Scuderia City Racer watch when he rolled up his sleeves to take part in the cooking segment of a recent broadcast. CT Scuderia designer Enrico Margaritelli is a third-generation watchmaker who is influenced by vintage café racers and inspired by Leno’s notable car and motorcycle collection. His watches feature racing-style dial details and straps made of the same perforated leather used in luxury sports cars. The 46-mm City Racer in steel worn by Leno ($2,995) has a Swiss-made automatic movement and a sapphire crystal caseback. ctscuderia.com AT THE CENTER

Photo by Carles Sykes/Invision for Bulgari/AP Images.

Adrien Brody, an Academy Award–winning actor and a Bulgari brand ambassador, joined Bulgari special projects manager Veronica Bulgari and Save the Children’s Adam Keehn to host a special holiday party for 100 local children at the Action Center in Far Rockaway, New York, in December. Over the past four years, Bulgari has raised more than $25 million to support some of Save the Children’s key strategic programs. Save the Children has been involved with the Action Center since helping the facility to recover following Hurricane Sandy in 2013. The Action Center serves its community through after-school programs that develop leadership skills and social responsibility. 212.315.9000, bulgari.com

Sotheby’s top lot: a Patek Philippe Ref. 2499

WINNING BID

An exceptional 1968 Patek Philippe Ref. 2499 exceeded its pre-auction estimate to become the top lot in Sotheby’s New York sale, Important Watches, on December 10. The yellow gold perpetual calendar chronograph with phases of the moon brought $353,000 in a sale that totaled $6.48 million and concluded a strong year for watch and clock auctions at Sotheby’s. Katharine Thomas, head of Sotheby’s New York Watch Department, comments, “We were privileged to offer a number of historically, technically and artistically exceptional pieces, many appearing at auction for the first time. Bidding reflected the global interest we have seen in our sales throughout the year, with private collectors and dealers participating from Europe, Asia, the Middle East and the Americas.” sothebys.com

Adrian Brody at the Action Center

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+ EVENT WATCH

EVENT REPORT | W HO ’S D OING WHAT, WHERE AND W HY I N THE W ATCH I ND USTRY

PERFECT FIT

Officine Panerai has opened its 10th U.S. boutique—and its 60th worldwide—in Aspen, Colorado. Situated in the heart of Aspen’s renowned high-end shopping district, the new boutique welcomes both year-round residents and travelers to the popular mountain resort destination. The spacious landmark building at the corner of East Hyman Avenue and South Mill Street has been renovated according to the brand’s latest global design concept, which reflects the finest elements of Italian style and engineering as well as Panerai’s nautical heritage. The 1,255-square-foot space features a library and a VIP lounge. Officine Panerai CEO Angelo Bonati comments, “Aspen has become an important market for fine watches and luxury goods. The casual, sporty elegance of Aspen’s men and women is very similar to the values of Panerai, hence we feel that this market is a perfect fit.” 877.PANERAI, panerai.com

Panerai’s Aspen boutique

MAKING SECONDS COUNT

Marking the fifth anniversary of the landing of Flight 1549 on the Hudson River, Swiss watchmaker JeanRichard honored aviation hero and brand ambassador Capt. Chesley “Sully” Sullenberger with the launch of the new “208 Seconds” Aeroscope automatic chronograph at New York’s Tourneau TimeMachine on January 14. The special edition watch commemorates the time it took Sullenberger to make the successful emergency landing, saving 155 lives. A portion of proceeds from sales of the new watch will support Sullenberger’s continuing philanthropic endeavors with the American Red Cross and the Rory Staunton Foundation. 877.846.3447, jeanrichard.com

Capt. Sullenberger and the special edition JeanRichard Aeroscope chrono, $5,400


Pavonina debut at Beijing’s Xun Club; the Glashütte Original Pavonina

AMONG THE FIRST

German watch manufacturer Glashütte Original held a glamorous event in Beijing on January 10. The more than 140 guests who attended were the first in China to discover the maker’s new Pavonina collection of feminine timepieces. The evening’s venue, the Xun Club, was wrapped in deep purple and gold and filled with artwork celebrating women’s achievements in science, medicine, business, art and culture. Fashion designer Mary Ma was among the special guests welcomed by Glashütte Original managing director Yann Gamard and Swatch Group China president Susan Chan. Priced at $4,900 to $39,600, The cushion-shaped Pavonina watches are offered in stainless steel or rose gold and feature quartz movements. 866.203.8699, glashuette-original.com IN REAL TIME

Omega premiered its new bobsleigh-mounted timekeeping device—the Omega Measurement Unit—at the Sochi 2014 Olympic Winter Games. In development since 2011, Omega’s new gadget is now competition ready. Each wireless unit uses a speed sensor, a triple-axis accelerometer and a triple-axis gyro-sensor to gather in-run data and make it instantly available to the competitors and to the worldwide television audience in real time. The data should allow athletes and their teams to adapt and improve their training programs. 800.766.6342, omega.ch

John Harbaugh’s RGM 151

HOMETOWN TEAM

Bobsleighing with Omega on board

Roland Murphy with Harbaugh

Roland Murphy, founder of Pennsylvania-based RGM Watch Company, is a Baltimore native and a Ravens fan. In the lead up to Super Bowl XLVIII, Murphy honored the NFL Championship team and its head coach, John Harbaugh, by presenting Harbaugh with a custom-built RGM 151 wristwatch with the Baltimore Ravens crest on the dial, the team logo on the sapphire crystal exhibition back, and a hand-engraved dedication at the perimeter of the caseback. An American-made titanium case was chosen for its toughness and light weight, both appropriate in the context of professional sports. One of the most popular models in the maker’s watch lineup, the RGM 151 ($2,750–$3,900) features an automatic mechanical movement and comprises numerous variants. 717.653.9799, rgmwatches.com

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Breguet, the innovator. Héritage 5400 chronograph

A resolutely contemporary interpretation of the traditional Breguet style, the Héritage 5400 chronograph stems from the combined mastery and expertise of the engineers, watchmakers and artisans of the Manufacture. Both the tonneau-shaped case and the finely guilloché dial with a monobloc chapter-ring are elegantly curved along two axes – a daring approach on both aesthetic and horological levels. History is still being written ...

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Watch Journal Issue 28