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S A M U E L

S H E P H E R D Concept Development.

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 1


The product will engage in the values of the company with a considered range that will suit the core customers needs. Trend is noted as a key interest of the consumer in the middle market and consequently footwear will be informed by looks of the season from the catwalks. Trends will however be highly edited and formed into concepts that work for the brand image. Inspirational luxury labels include Celine, Chloé, Lanvin, Prada and Stella McCartney. These brands share a similar clean, classic yet contemporary feminine aesthetic that are qualities that want to be expressed in the Samuel Shepherd range. Samuel Shepherd is proud to be British and one of the predominate values of the company. The ranges will celebrate British creativity by sourcing inspirational material that will reveal a true British accent. Although a simplistic and modern design approach is the main identity of the brand, a humourous touch will add personal character and a feeling far removed from the hostility that the fashion industry so often conveys. Development is seen as the key to a successful range and consequently a thorough design process will occur each season. The process will be reflective of many elements making sure the collection is realistic and over creativity does not surpass wearability. Ranges will suit a variety of customer needs and desires, with consideration to occasion, seasonal needs and ability to transition through seasons. At the heart of the brands values is quality. Samuel Shepherd feels price does not always reflect quality with strong brand images accounting for much of the price margin added to many products. At a mid market level companies such as Camper prove that eminent design, material and construction is obtainable at an attainable price point. Samuel Shepherd wants the customer to understand the product and feel confident what they are spending their money on. The Samuel Shepherd brand is about the shared experience from design to customer. It’s about the understanding of the product to the customer and appreciating it’s attributes; from the lush dip dyed Italian leather, to the inspiration used for the collection. With new technology providing more social ways of communicating with the customer including social networking sites and blogs, Samuel Shepherd will be able to communicate the company core values that previously could only be done through advertising and in the retail space. Therefore a brand such as Samuel Shepherd with a distinguishable ethos, can now communicate more directly and instantly with the consumer.

S A M U E L

S H E P H E R D Figure 1.2 - Company logo

The company logo encapsulates the identity of the brand. Two typefaces called ‘AW Conqueror Sans’ and ‘Inline’ feature which whilst simple have unique features. The ‘Sam’ emblem consists of a tonal grey and contrasting camel colour palette. Camel is used for its natural leather feel, it engages with the customer and makes them think quality. Although these remain house standard colours, there is potential to change colour ways according to the season to keep the brand alive and interesting. The emblem and typeface logo can stand together or alone, depending how it is needed. All footwear and shoe boxes will be branded subtly as Samuel Shepherd is about product and not solely brand image. It it not about branding the consumer, it’s about allowing the footwear to work for the individual. The research undertaken in the development of the concept will further inform the Samuel Shepherd brand on the internal and external environment which will consequently shape the values of the brand as more is learnt. The identity of the company will be finalised in the conclusion of this development in order to take strength and opportunity from what is discovered in the research.

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 2


1.0 Introduction.

T

he concept development will inform the introduction of the Samuel Shepherd brand as a proposal for entry into the fashion footwear market. The women’s footwear range is aimed at the premium footwear market, with a mid level price point attractive to a core consumer of late 20’s to mid 30’s. The range will abide to the fashion calender with Autumn Winter, Spring Summer and Cruise line available in April.

The research plan supports the method of research that will be taken and any new areas of research evidenced within this report. Areas of research included within the realisation of the brand are: The internal market or the micro environment of the brand, it’s identity and core values. The analysis of the business drawing from strengths weaknesses and opportunity. Research of the macro or external market analysing the competition and market condition which will both support and define the brands market placement. Considering the area of inspiration for the Spring Summer 2012 range. This will include trend research and own concept for the season with reference to materials, hardware and colour choices. Consumer analysis and focus groups will evidence the wants, needs and desires of the consumer. Focus Groups will put attention on the core customer of the brand. Potential origins of production and suppliers will be looked to assess how and where the product will be produced. Stockists and retail opportunity will be evidenced in order to assess potential wholesale customers. Findings concluded and evaluated to see how to take the brand further and justify strengths and weaknesses.

2.0 The Brand.

Quality. Attainable.

British.

Wearable. Contemporary.

Distinguishable.

Humour. Figure 1.0 - Brand values

The Samuel Shepherd footwear range will launch in the Spring of 2012 with a women’s collection of 12 styles. The brand has a strong personality that is undoubtedly British with a clean contemporary look and passion for quality and design. Realistic in the design approach makes the range wearable, yet edgy with a sense of humour that provides distinguishable characteristics. Aimed at the premium footwear market the brand presents a mid market price attainable to consumers who appreciate good authentic design and integral quality. Opportunity for an exclusively footwear business in the premium footwear market has been noticed and with their continued success in this area with brands such as Kurt Geiger, All Saints and Whistles makes it seem like a favorable market. CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 3


3.0 The Market - Macro Environment The business is targeted at the premium footwear market. This is a mid market positioning between the high street and luxury, sharing attributes from both sides.

High street

Premium

Luxury

Ready to wear

Ready to wear

Catwalk inspired

Catwalk inspired

Sourced in Europe ie Italy

Mass produced

Exclusive

Cheap materials

Low quantity

Sourced in the Far East ie China

Sourced in Europe ie Spain / Portugal

Mainstream

High quality finish

Attainable

Attainable

High finish Exclusive Low quantity Expensive High quality finish

Figure 1.3 - Attributes of the premium

Figure 1.3 represents the factors that the business will utilise from the high street and luxury market in order to position itself in the mid market. One of the main qualities that is shared with the high street market is catwalk influenced design. Brands such as Top Shop, Zara and H&M interpret luxury catwalk trends into their collections, with some near identical copies. A large amount of aspirational high street or mass fashion consumers want to emulate the trends they see on the catwalk without the luxury price point. The premium market and particularly in Samuel Shepherd’s case, will be influenced by trends as it is seen as a highly influential factor to consumers, however it is important to retain a clear company identity. Premium retailers All Saints and Whistles are adopting this formula successfully, Jane Shepherdson CEO of Whistles says

“While what’s going on on the catwalk is important to us, we’re not slaves to it, we look at each trend and see how we can make it work for us” . Whistles Of Delight All Round, The Evening Standard (Shepherdson, 2010).

Another point adopted from the high street is ready to wear or wearability. Some luxury brands produce overly creative products that are conceptual and wearability is debatable. At a mid market position it is necessary that while providing the consumer something different, the footwear is a realised product that can be worn without restriction. Luxury goods are generally placed at a price point that makes them exclusive as tendencies prove only the wealthy can afford them. In contrast high street fashion brands such as Primark sell footwear priced at as little as £10, making it attainable to most consumers. Part of this attainability is quantity and high street fashion is typically produced in mass numbers. Samuel Shepherd will combine attainability with a competitive realistic price point while gaining exclusivity through low quantities, giving the product a distinctive high end feel. High quality materials and finishing are of course expected of a luxury product at a high retail price. Luxury footwear is generally sourced in Italy for it’s history of producing the finest quality footwear. Leathers and hardware are typically sourced from the most superior tanneries and suppliers. High street mass produced footwear is generally sourced in China, India and Vietnam with the leather and components sourced also in these areas. Quality although by no means poor, is clearly mass produced and lacks craftsmanship. The premium market sources production similarly to the luxury market in Europe in countries such as Portugal and Spain where footwear production is of a higher standard and more costly production price.

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 4


CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 5

Brand

Reiss was established in London in 1971. With premium brand pricing it offers design led clothing and accessories. 58 Standalone stores in the U.K. and the Republic of Ireland as well as concessions in Fenwick, Harvey Nichols, John Lewis, Selfridges an Galeries Lafayette in Paris.

Pedro Garcia was founded in 1925 in Spain Alicante. Manufactured in Spain the company describes itself as traditional shoe makers with an avant garde style.

Established in Nottingham in 1970 and showed his first menswear collection in Paris in 1976. The brand today is known world wide as the British brand with a quirky twist. Paul smith is sold world wide in 35 countries.

Company Info

Established in 1963 in London’s Bond street. The company is owned by Graphite Capital in 2008 for £95 million. The company retains a 3.8% market share. Stores include 35 standalone UK stores and concessions in London, France, Italy, Ireland and the Middle East.

Product

• Flats - £120 • Court shoe - £149 • Sandal - £159 • Boot - £250

Price points at Reiss include:

• Court shoe - £225 • Ankle boot - £325 • Knee boot - £385 • Sandal - £445

Price points include:

• Knee boot - £669 • Ankle boot - £399.99 • Riding boot - £349.00 • Court shoe - £189 • Flat shoe (closed) - £309 • Ballerina - £145

Pricing is competitive for Italian produced footwear in the Luxury market.

• Miss KG - £65 • Carvella - £100 • KG - £190 • Kurt Geiger - £260 • Fashionistas - £300

Price

Pricing varies across the ranges. Pricing for a platform court shoe:

3.1 - Competitor Charts (see also competitor analysis appendix 1 - 12)

China.

The company prides itself on it’s Spanish roots and continues to manufacture the entire collection there.

The mainline Paul Smith and all formal styles are produced in Italy. Trainers are produced in China.

Produced

The Miss KG, Carvella and Kg by Kurt Geiger are produced in Brazil, Spain, China and India. Kurt Geiger and Fashionistas ranges are produced in Italy

The range is design led with a feel for the latest catwalk trends. Styles include flats, mid and high heels and boots. The range is small with around 30 looks each season.

Garcia has a strong design image that is unique to the company. Popular styles are continued each season. Designs are clean with luxury suedes, leathers and elaborate embellishments.

The Paul Smith range consists of the mainline Paul Smith, X by Paul Smith and Paul by Paul Smith. The ranges include court shoes, boots, iconic British Oxford formals and trainers.

Range

Miss KG, Carvella, KG by Kurt Geiger, Kurt Geiger and Fashionistas. Sells wide range of other brands including UGG, Paul Smith and Patrick Cox.

Reiss has a mature customer base from late 20’s to early 40’s as it’s primary consumer. The higher price point means it is aimed at people whose earning allow them to spend extra than a high street price. Quality and design is important to their customer and they will go out their way to get something more unique than mass produced ranges of the high street. With such a small range of footwear purchases are likely to be impulse buys or magazine featured shoes.

Pedro Garcia main stockist in the UK is Net a porter, instantly placing it with a luxury customer base. However the competitive price tag places it at more of a premium price point. This makes it accessible to less affluent consumers. The clean wearable classic styles is aimed at mature women of 30+, but as with Paul Smith the brand continues to be popular with younger fashion followers.

Paul Smith has a loyal customer base seeking the British look and quality of the collections. The customer may be attracted by brand, but not the latest trends as the range is distinguishable as apposed to trend led. Paul Smith is popular with city types with store locations including Holland Park and Covent garden suggesting a wealthy demographic. Women in their early 30’s and beyond are the core customer and with classic designs and wearability it is desirable to 50+ women also.

Consumer

Vast customer base. Miss KG and Carvella are entry point products and have a younger demographic of 18 - 25 for a trend led customer. Kg by Kurt Geiger is aimed at 20 -30 year old’s, looking for something more adventurous and unique. Kurt Geiger is aimed at 30+ women wanting classic styles and the highest quality Italian made footwear. Fashionistas is for the woman who wants statement footwear with Italian quality.

The web site features an online shop with multiple images of the products. Product detailing is personal, with appropriate product detailing such as heel heights and sometimes fit recommendations.

The web site is yet to include an online shop. A look book of the seasons styles is available as well as company information. Online presents is mainly through Netaporter.

The web site stays true to the personality of the company with a personal feel, and online blog by Sir Paul Smith. The passion for design and quality shows through with product descriptions that appreciate the production qualities.

The web site offers the entire range, including web site exclusive products. Other brands sold online include Paul Smith, UGG and French Connection.

E-commerce

Kurt Geiger’s web site according to their CEO Neil Clifford accounts for 15% of own brand sales. (see appendix 31).


CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 6 Camper’s quirky, fun identity flows into their web site that has extensive product knowledge and online store. Collaborations with designers, ad’s both still and moving image are presented in an all together engaging online experience. It is with out doubt one of the most impressive representations of footwear on the web.

Camper’s primary customer is popular in cosmopolitan area such as London, where some of it’s quirky stores are located. It’s mid ranged pricing attracts customer looking for quality, comfort and individual style. With a range of men’s, women’s and children’s footwear, the brand is popular with families therefore people generally over 30. The brand is popular with creative people as they appreciate the company’s designs and attention to detail.

• Trainer - £90 • Sandal - £95 • Flat pump - £100 • Court shoe - £110 • Knee boot - £170

Camper pricing:

Own factory in Mal- Camper has a fun and lorca Spain. wearable aesthetic. The styles have personality, with lush leathers and all shoes come with a 2 years manufacturing warranty.

See by Chloé has online presence through the Chloé website, however no online shop is available. Like most high end fashion brands it is well presented on NetaPorter and other popular online fashion stores.

The web site is a creative hub for fashion talent. Designers such as Alexander Wang, Acne and B Store are all sold on it’s online store, as well as the Opening Ceremony own brand. The web sites lives up to the brands ethos of promoting unique creative talent all in one store. Product detailing reveals the brand passion for good design.

Camper was established in Mallorca in 1975 by Lorenzo Fluxà. The family still run the business today and sell over 3 million pairs of shoes world wide a year. Company moto “imagination walks”.

Chloé is popular with a broad demographic as the fashion house has a high fashion identity, but remains essentially wearable every day. The See by Chloé range is popular in cosmopolitan areas such as London with affluent late to mid 30 women who have disposable income to spend on good footwear. The classic styling of Chloé, while still remaining on trend makes the lines timeless in any wardrobe.

Opening Ceremony’s strong character and unique design identity makes it popular with creative types. The footwear stands out from the crowd, something it’s customer will inevitably be seeking. 20-35 year olds are the core customer, and likely to be fashion lovers, but care little about trends and more about brands that stand out from the crowd. The mid market price points makes it more accessible to the younger 20 year old creatives who are willing to spend on something unique.

All Saints offers a fully transactional online store. The web site continues the identity of the brand with a vintage look and feel. Footwear is displayed fluently with personalised product descriptions and material specification.

The range echoes that of the mainline range in design aesthetic. It is clean and feminine and the wear ability is high with no dramatic heels over 12cm. Natural hides and statement stitching is a key feature of the Chloé image.

The Opening Ceremony range consists of around 30 styles per season. The range is unique with an eclectic mix of leather and fabric uppers. Heels are high at 5 inches in some of the range, but the majority of the range while unique, remain wearable. Footwear and clothing available.

All Saints is an example of how a strong brand identity can attract a mass fashion following. Although as a premium retailer, All Saints loyal influential 20 to 25 year olds are willing to buy into the brand at what ever the cost. All Saint’s customers want something unique, something far removed from the trend led high street. All Saints is popular in cosmopolitan areas such as Leeds and London offering the attributes of a luxury brand but at a more accessible price.

Italy and Spain.

Portugal

AllSaints footwear pricing Brazil and Portugal. All Saints has a disincludes: tinguishable design aesthetic. It has an in• Flat pump - £95 stantly recognisable • Court shoe - £135 design identity. The • Formal sandal - £160 company focuses on • Flat boot - £175 fresh, innovative de• Ankle boot - £200 sign with vintage look • Knee boot - £295 materials and heavily worked fabrics.

• Flat - £185 • Sandal wedge - £195 • Sandal - £210 • Ankle boot - £330 • Knee boot - £550

See by Chloé pricing structure includes:

• Wedge - £255 • Sandal - £280 • Ankle boot - £299 • Knee boot - £355

Price points:

AllSaints was founded in 1994 in Shoreditch London by Kevin Stanford. All Saints today has over 100 stores world wide, recently entering America. Profits in 2010 reached £10.7 million, up 135 % on the previous year.

See by Chloé was first shown in 2001 as a more youthful everyday diffusion line to the mainline Chloé range. At a more accessible price point the collection is a mid market range that attracts a younger cliental.

Opening Ceremony was established in 2002 and is a creative hub for emerging creative talent. Stores showcases new talent from the fashion world and their own product range.


CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 7

The label launched in 2001 solely as a shoe line - devised by coowners José Neves, Matthew Murphy and Kirk Beattie - with its home in Mayfair’s Conduit Street, London. B Store offers fresh, innovative products that are accessible to a modern consumer.

Danish born Camilla Skovgaard established her label after graduating from the RCA in 2006. Skovgaard has produced ranges for the likes of Matthew Williamson and other well known designers.

Established in 1981 in Hampstead London, Hobbs has become a recognised name on the UK high street. The company currently has over 100 stores and is fronted by it’s creative director Sandy Verdon.

Russell & Bromley was established in 1873 and today has a portfolio of 43 shops located in the UK. The stores stock a mix of own brand lines and a stockist of DKNY, Moreschi and Stuart Weizman. Men’s and women’s styles are available.

• Ankle boot - £195 • Wedge - £245 • Shoe boot - £255 • Knee boot - £319

Price points:

• Sandal - £285 • Court shoe - £320 • Ankle boot - £355 • Wedge - £428

Price points include:

• Flat pump - £129 • Wedge - £129 • Mid heel - £135 • High heel - £149 • Derby flat - £169 • Knee boot - £229

Hobbs price points include:

• Flat pump - £89 • Court shoe - £149 • Oxford flat - £155 • Knee boot - £225

Russell & Bromley pricing structure:

B Store owned factory in Portugal.

China.

Hobbs owned factory in Italy.

Italy and Spain.

B Store like Opening Ceremony has a clean contemporary design identity and a range that uses good leather and has a high level of craftsmanship. The range has some consideration to trend, but is mostly its own design aesthetic. Footwear and clothing available.

The Camilla Skovgaard range is clean and contemporary, while still being wearable. The styles are feminine and edgy, with the perfect mix of designer creativity and styles you can wear everyday.

The Hobbs footwear range is extensive with around 50 styles per season. The collection has an English style with a slight twist, very much like Paul Smith. Hobbs state that they are the only retailer where you can buy the whole complimenting outfit.

Russell & Bromley ‘s range is undoubtedly British with a classic look and impeccable quality. The range is considered with large retail spaces that do not feel as over crowded as Kurt Geiger for example. Bromley remains one of the only traditional footwear specialists .

B Store again like Opening Ceremony has a mass customer following from the creative industry who appreciate good design. 20 - 35 is the core customer age and will have an interest in fashion, but is not a fashion victim. The brand is popular in cosmopolitan areas such as London where many of it’s retail outlets and stockists are found. At a mid market price point the customer will have some disposable income, and will be willing to part with more money for good design.

The B Store web site is basic offering the entire B Store collection in an online store. Product detailing isn’t personal to the product and product specification is minimal.

Skovgaard’s web site follows her clean design aesthetic. Whilst there is no online shop, an extensive look book is available. Skogaard’s ranges are popular with online retailers Netaporter and Matches.

Hobbs has an online store that boasts all the product ranges. Product details are personally written and appropriate product detailing available.

Hobbs customer like Russell & Bromley and L.K. Benett is 30+ with a conservative classic style. The footwear is wearable making it popular with a more considered older customer. Trends will not be of interest to their customer base, with them shopping for quality and design. Stores locations in wealthy locations such as Hampstead, offer an insight into the core demographic of Hobbs. Hobbs NW1 range offers more fashion forward designs, and consequently attracts a younger consumer from late to mid 30’s. Hobbs has a loyal customer base, something seen frequently from heritage brands. Camilla Skovgaard’s modern design identity makes her popular with younger 25 - 35 year old women. These women will have an interest in fashion but dress to be individual rather than follow trends. The price point is also slightly under that of luxury labels and whilst still being sold amongst luxury labels on Netaporter, her collection is more accessible to the mid market customer at this competitive price.

Russell & Bromley has a poor online presence. There is no online shop or possibility to view any of the collection. Products are featured however in advertising features displayed online.

Russell & Bromley like L.K. Benett attracts a 30+ woman looking for classic styles and quality. The mid market pricing means the customer will inevitably have disposable income. The consumer is unlikely to be influenced by current trends, and wants her footwear to compliment an outfit, rather than make a statement. Store location in areas such as High Street Kensington and Bond Street, suggest they target a wealthy customer of a older age range with accordance to the demographic of these areas, particularly in the case of High Street Kensington.


3.2 - Competitor Analysis Analysis of the competition with reference to the competitor tables 3.2 and competitor shops (see appendix 1 -12) The twelve brands represent competition from the lower mid and exit stages of the premium market in order to gain a broad understanding.

Company The twelve competitors show a varied selection of established brands and newer labels to the market. Russell & Bromley has a history of over 130 years and with continued success today with a retained 2.4% market share (Mintel August 2010). This encouraging data suggests there is potential for a new brand to have longevity. Paul Smith is another brand that continues to dominate with a global customer base who adore the company’s quirky British identity. Fresh youthful brands such as b Store and Opening Ceremony are newer market players with distinguishable aesthetics and although relatively small, show the opportunity for new designers. Camper and Pedro Garcia have quality and craftsmanship at the heart of their business ethos, and show reassurance in consumer interest in this area with over 3 million pair of shoes sold by Camper yearly (Lawless, 2005).

Product One of key findings of the products researched is the importance of trend in the mid market. Top sellers shown in the competitor shops suggest on trend footwear proves most popular. Shearling is a key trend for Autumn Winter 2010 and was seen on countless catwalks such as Burberry. This is reflected in the top sellers of for example See by Chloe and All Saints. What is important to take from this is the way they have interpreted the trend in their own unique design aesthetic, making the trend work for them and their customer. All Saints desired military boot continues to be key style, showing potential for brand associated icon product.

Production Spain and Portugal are the main areas of production with 8 of the 12 companies sourcing there. The level of craftsmanship from these countries is high, particularly the Camper and Pedro Garcia ranges that express the finest quality in the premium market. Brazil is another popular country of production with Kurt Geiger and All Saints. A factory called TMLS in Brazil is used by Kurt Geiger with an impressive hand writing that produces high quality, unique and sometimes extreme footwear. However the footwear lacks the personality and character seen from the Spanish and Italian factories.

Range The footwear specialist brands such as Kurt Geiger, Russell & Bromley and Camper have vast and varied ranges. Footwear by company’s such as All Saints and Reiss who are primarily clothing retailers is less varied with smaller collections of 30 or less styles. Typically according to Winter or Summer seasons, footwear reflects the season with higher proportions of boots in Winter and open sandals in the Summer. KG by Kurt Geiger for example has around 32 boots options of assorted styles.

Consumer Kurt Geiger and All Saints highlight younger 20 - 30 customers are willing to spend at a high price point in the premium market. Russell & Bromley and Hobbs with more conservative styles attract an older demographic with 30 + women. All Saints recent expansion into America and sales of “£680,00 in it’s first week of trading” (Brown, 2010) reveal there is scope to attract global consumers from a premium British label with the right identity.

E-commerce The majority of the competitors have web sites with online buying opportunity. NetaPorter surprisingly features premium brands Pedro Garcia and the higher priced Camilla Skovgaard. This is encouraging as Net a Porter has such an influential stance in luxury online sales, stocking mid market brands suggests potential for the web site to be a stockist of the Samuel Shepherd brand. Some retailers are yet to offer any products online such as Russell & Bromley. With “15% of all own brand sales” (see appendix 31) done online at Kurt Geiger, seems ignorant to modern retailing.

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 8


3.3 - Kurt Geiger - In Depth Analysis. Singapore - £250 Upper: Leather Lining: Leather Sole: Synthetic Height: 90mm Made: Italy

Leila - £195 Upper: Fabric Lining: Synthetic Sole: Synthetic Made: Italy

Lizzy - £150 Upper: Fabric Lining: Leather Sole: Synthetic

K

Scene - £390 Upper: Leather Lining: Leather Sole: Leather Height: 130mm Made: Italy

Erica - £210 Upper: Leather Lining: Leather Sole: Synthetic Height : 100mm Made: Italy Highlight - £180 Upper: Leather Lining: Leather Sole: Leather Heel: 120mm Made: Italy

Leila - £195 Upper: Fabric Lining: Synthetic Sole: Synthetic Made: Italy

Figure 1.4 - Kurt Geiger product range Images sourced: www.kurtgeiger.com

urt Geiger is the leading premium footwear retailer in the UK and a major competitor to any brand in this market. Since established in 1963 the company has grown to a business with sales in 2010 at £162 million (Wood, 2010). Kurt Geiger is sold in a growing 35 standalone UK stores and concessions in London, Italy, Ireland and the Middle East. The company benefits from running the shoe departments of leading departments stores such as Harrods, Selfridges and Liberty. It’s products consequently sit amongst Christian Louboutin and Chanel, the key to the businesses high status feel. Rebecca Farrar Hockley the brands Creative Director is no stranger to luxury fashion as the previous Accessories Buying Director at Selfridges. Hockley has transformed the companies image % with glossy retail spaces designed by top retail interior designers and stores in 1 C&J Clark (UK) 16.4 the most prestigious locations, such as the new store in the ‘Designer Village’ 2 Shoe Zone Group 6.7 at London’s Westfield shopping centre. These glitzy qualities all add to a luxury 3 Dune Group 4.2 shopping experience at a mid market price point, which clearly their customers adore. 4 Schuh 4.1 5

Kurt Geiger

3.7

Kurt Geiger produces four sub brands, Miss KG, Carvela, KG by Kurt Geiger, 6 Barratts Priceless 3.4 Kurt Geiger and Fashionistas. Each sub brand is targeted at a different areas 7 Office Holdings 3.2 of the market, ranging from the entry price Miss KG to the 8 Brantano (UK) 3.1 more exclusive Kurt Geiger 9 Russell & Bromley 2.3 brand. The Kurt Geiger brand 10 Footlocker 2.2 sits most prevalently as a direct Subtotal 49.2 competitor of the Samuel Table 1.2 Leading retailers market share 2008/2009. Shepherd brand, hence why the Source: Office for National Statistics / Mintel 2010. brand will be primarily focused on in the analysis of the Kurt Geiger business.

Source: Found Associates

“On Geiger its about diversity to an extent but still keeping Geiger signature style. The collection must sit nicely together”. Nina Hjorth - Kurt Geiger designer (see appendix 14)

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 9


The words of Kurt Geiger’s senior women’s designer reflect the aesthetic of the Kurt Geiger range. Hjorth an alumni of The Royal College of Art and previously worked with Nicholas Kirkwood, is no stranger to a luxury design standard. Her clean, contemporary style works fluidly with the sleek interiors of the stores, keeping the brands identity consistent throughout. The collection is influenced by trend but unlike the KG by Kurt Geiger range that follows trends closely has a subtle take, with more personal input by Nina Hjorth. These qualities combined with being made in Italy makes the brand reflective of luxury footwear but more accessible at a lower price point. As shown in figure 1.4 the footwear feature leather uppers, soles and lining, and more practical rubber soles on certain pieces. Styles such as ‘Singapore’ and ‘Erica’ (see previous page) present reference to trend with clog and feathers key looks for Autumn Winter 2010. The range is diverse as Hjorth states above, with a mix of towering 13 cm heels and easier 5cm heels. The Kurt Geiger collection has seen some change as the company has developed over the last 50 years. Previously the footwear was classic in style much like Hobbs, and LK Bennett back in the early days, however with the company entering a more fashion forward position the collection has transformed to accommodate this. With such an established past, loyal customers expect a level of refined quality footwear and not adventurous high fashion styles. Figure 1.5 shows a selection of the answers to the question ‘What is your opinion of Kurt Geiger ?’ in a questionnaire conducted (see appendix 20 - 23) of women earning 50K and between 25-44 years of age. These women best fit the core customer of the Kurt Geiger brand. It seems from this that although a small selection the Kurt Geiger range isn’t for filling the needs of some of it’s core customer. These comments provide opportunity for the Samuel Shepherd brand to explore some of the standards these women feel the Kurt Geiger range fails on.

What is your opinion of Kurt Geiger ?

“Too fashion victim, too uncomfortable” “I often find them too trendy to wear in the real world” “Often go in to have a look but never bought anything” Figure 1.5 - Consumer opinions of Kurt Geiger, all 25 -44 earning 50100k + (see appendix 20 - 23)

What was noted during the competitor shop was the vast product mix in store. With the Miss KG, Carvela, KG by Kurt Geiger, Fashionistas and Kurt Geiger collections, there are approximately 400 styles. These are 400 styles all with varying target customers and price points from £55 for Miss KG and up to £450 for Kurt Geiger. It is felt that the company is confusing it’s identity with such a mass market spread, the customer is lost to what the real identity of Kurt Geiger. Is it a affordable high street? Is it a trend led premium brand? Or is it affordable luxury produced in Italy? They seem to have oversaturated their product by targeting too many markets and not concentrating on just one. KG by Kurt Geiger for example is the diffusion line of Kurt Geiger high end brand, much like Marc by Marc Jacobs. What Marc Jacobs does differently is too almost disassociate the two lines, by having their own stores, so the products never cross paths. Kurt Geiger on the other hand is in the same store as the much cheaper Miss KG and KG by Kurt Geiger lines. This could then harm the range, removing it credibility as a premium range as it’s sits amongst more affordable footwear. What Samuel Shepherd should take from this is the importance of brand image and building a solid identity that translates clearly to the customer. The experience the customer expects with a premium brand is also important and must be surrounded by a retail experience that supports the attributes of the footwear. Kurt Geiger does this well, with stores that are glossy and sophisticated, adding to an engaging and experience. It makes the customer more confident that what they are buying is worth the spend, especially if it’s an expensive purchase. Samuel Shepherd needs to assess which potential retailers are suitable for the brand. Image, location, interior space and other stockists all need to be considered in making sure the identity of the brand is sustained and translated appropriately to the consumer.

Kurt Geiger & Celebrity Culture

“Celebrity culture is playing its part, when a popular personality wears its shoes, it translates into immediate sales”. Kurt Geiger shoe sales stack up, The Guardian (Wood, 2010).

Fashion brands have long been known to use celebrities to generate press for their products. Kurt Geiger’s marketing team work with celebrity stylists to get their footwear on the most well known celebrities including Cheryl Cole and Alex Chung. More recently Geiger is working with The X Factor television program supplying CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 10


acts with their footwear for their prime time weekend shows. Celebrity endorsement therefore seems to be a key opportunity to get fashion product noticed. Samuel Shepherd will consider this way of promotion within it’s marketing strategy, but as with the stockists, this will need to be considered, taking into account which famous faces would suit the brands image. Free samples would be sent to relevant figures in order for them to become aware of the company and of course for the potential of them wearing them to events.

! G K n i xa e l A & l

As the cost of advertising in publications such as Vogue and Harpers Bazaar is beyond the financial means of most start up businesses, it seems celebrity endorsement is the most cost efficient way of promoting a collection. Another strategy adopted by Kurt Geiger is a ‘press product’ or footwear that stands out from the rest of the range. This maybe one or several styles that has a quirky design, or something of character that get’s noticed. Kurt Geiger recently brought back it’s Fashionistas Source : ww.kurtgeiger.com collection, an example of the footwear from this collection can be seen on the left. Fashionistas as the name suggests are unique trend inspired footwear with no limits and for the most fashion forward of customers. They generate press interest, and are frequently seen in window displays of own brand and department stores such as Selfridges.

Chery

Kurt Geiger Fashionistas 2009 Source:www.kurtgeiger.com

Samuel Shepherd needs to consider such a press style product or products in the design stage, and although they may not be as vivacious as the fashionistas range, they will need to stand out in order to bring attention to the brand.

Kurt Geiger visuals source: thewindowdisplayblog.com/

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 11


3.4 - Camper - In Depth Analysis PEU - £100

Brown leather elastic lace inner lining Sole: Rubber

Cosins - £75 Blue sueded leather Sole: Rubber

Ariadna - £90 Dark brown leather

Annie Alto - £100

Back-zip ankle boot grey leather 6.5 cm (2.6 in) Sole: Rubber / leather

7 cm (2.8 in) Sole: Rubber

PEU - £90

Black leather shoe with elastic lace Sole: Rubber

Mamba -£100

Lace-up shoe in black leather 7 cm (2.8 in) heel Sole: Rubber

Figure 1.6 - Camper product range Images sourced: www.camper.com

Imagination walks” the moto of Camper the family owned innovative brand that produces shoes with personality. Camper is an aspirational brand of Samuel Shepherd and a competitor at a lower price point. Camper remains one of the few remaining uniquely footwear brands that has a thriving wholesale business and over 100 own brand stores. Unlike Kurt Geiger who design identity is closely related to the aesthetic of the catwalk trends, Camper has it’s own distinguishable personality. Like All Saints and Paul Smith who share similar design standards, Camper’s footwear is instantly recognisble. Camper was born in 1975 when Majorcan Lorenzo Fluxa continued the passion of his family for shoe making. His Grandfather had established a factory on the Island in 1887 which became the production site of Camper, which means peasant in Catalan. Communications manager Ruth Coughlan explains the ethos of the brand:

“We’re not a fashionable brand, the aim is to pursue our own line of thinking. But by coincidence we sometimes happen to be on trend”. Camper, Drapers (Spear, 2008)

PHILOSOPHY Extraordinary Crafts is our way of understanding technology. All our passion to create the next generation of shoes that are useful, innovative and full of personality. Plenty of people have talked about technology before but never like Camper does. Creativity applied to ever process, from a shoe’s pre-production phase until it’s recycled. We never stop evolving. As we like to say at Camper: “A little better, never perfect”.

Looking at a selection of the range in figure 1.6, you can see how distinguishable the range is and how it works cohesively. Ranges include men’s, women’s and children’s footwear with some styles such as the iconic Peu (see figure 1.6) repeated across the collections. Peu is good example of Camper design standards, with quality leathers, moulded sole units stitched to the upper, innovative elasticated lacing and breathable leather sock that moulds to the foot. A Camper shoe is a highly realised and considered design, with everything from the sole to the sock working together to create a functional hard wearing shoe. The brand is a refreshing take on the respect for design and footwear craftsmanship that is so frequently lost in mass produced fashion of today. CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 12


C

amper invests extensively in footwear technology and innovation. The business has five areas of technology that feature amongst its ranges. Figure 1.7 shows an examples of these including, lightweight footwear, 360 degree stitching, hybrid styles, waterproofing and P87 cushioning. P87 cushioning not only acts as a technological feature, but aesthetically too, which can bee seen in figure 1.8. It is this combination of design and innovation that makes Campers product so dynamic and distinguishable in the footwear market. Their designers think laterally, breaking the boundaries and pushing shoe making to new levels. Samuel Shepherd admires Camper quality and craftsmanship. No other brand at this level of the market offers a 2 year manufacturers warranty with all footwear, something you would expect from a luxury Italian or English made brand such as Church’s. Footwear of a higher price point must warrant the cost to the consumer and with Camper you feel confident that you are investing wisely. Consumers today are become ever more careful of their spending especially in times of economic downturn which was noted on Mintel “They maybe feeling the financial pinch, therefore being more careful and needing to justify their expenditure” (Mintel, March 2010). Figure 1.8 - P87 Cushioning

Samuel Shepherd’s passion for footwear design and quality is something that will be a major part of the companies ethos. It is important that the product is a highly realised working shoe that works from stitching to sole unit. Although technology innovation a t Campers levels would be impossible for a start up business. The brand hopes that in future seasons the company can invest time and money into innovative footwear. The area of quality also seems to be of importance now and highlighted on Mintel, “Quality has risen up the consumer priority list, with over a quarter of consumers willing to pay more for better quality” (Mintel, June 2010). Therefore a counter acting trend for quality as apposed to the mass produced fashion is appearing and should be seen as an area of opportunity for the Samuel Shepherd brand.

“The product has evolved and has a younger edge. It had become the teacher’s favourite they would buy a pair and because it’s good quality they would last ages. Now there’s more Figure 1.7 - Camper Technology of an appeal to people in their late 20’s”. Images sourced: www.camper.com Ian Currie, Manager of Dogfish Norwich: Camper, Drapers (Spear, 2008).

Identity is important to any brand, it is the way in which people perceive the product and business. Campers identity is strong, Unlike Kurt Geiger which showed signs of a mixed image that could potentially harm a brand, Camper has a fluid aesthetic with is constant throughout the business. Camper has simply targeted a core customer group and created a product that suits the needs of their customer. Their shoes are focused at a mature 30+ customer who appreciates good design and more than likely creative people who live and work in cosmopolitan areas. An older core customer means they will likely be married with a family or will potentially have a family in the future. Campers range features men’s, women’s and children’s footwear therefore providing for their core customer. Campers provides footwear for the whole family and allows its customer to grow up with the brand creating brand loyal customers.

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 13


“Small specialists with highly branding gain share fastest market”

distinctive in the

UK Womenswear Retailers (Verdict: 2008).

Analysing Camper has made Samuel Shepherd understand the importance of brand character and how the brand is perceived by it’s customer. It is recognised that it is important to understand the primary customer thoroughly and target the product to their needs, wants and desires. Camper has provided evidence that there is a customer base that appreciates design, craftsmanship and distinguishable design that does not follow the mass fashion market. However from the competitor shop (see appendix 3) the top selling ‘Annie Alto’ style has reference to the loafer trend for AW10. The shearling trend was seen in many popular products for AW10, proving that trends do still play an important part in the success of footwear styles.

Figure 1.9 - Regents Street store

Spain and Portugal are areas of interest for the production of the Samuel Shepherd collection. Camper’s Spanish production standard is extremely high and with a well sourced factory, Samuel Shepherd could produce footwear of a similar standard in Spain. C a m p e r ’s ‘together’ project as described by them “is the ability to integrate different knowledge and cultures into one project, and an organization capable of ensuring international implementation”. Collaborating with Figure 2.0 - Ad Campaign designers and artists including Willhelm, Veronique Branquinho. Maria Blaisse and Hayon. These collaborations fit with the spirit of the Camper brand and it’s passion for design. The idea of collaboration within the art and design world in order to push the boundaries further in shoe design is an interesting concept and one that could be integrated into the Samuel Shepherd brand and one that also

Source: www.camper.com

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 14


3.5 - SWOT Analysis - Micro Environment

A

SWOT analysis of the Samuel Shepherd brand will allow the brand to oversee strengths, weaknesses, opportunities and threats. These factors are an integral part to building a defined business in the highly competitive market of fashion footwear. POSITIVE

NEGATIVE

WEAKNESSES

STRENGTHS Defined Identity that is distinguishable and wearable.

Financial costs for starting a footwear brand are high.

Realised product mix with a contemporary edge.

Own brand fashion start-ups are high-risk ventures with equity from an external source difficult as the level of return is unpredictable with commodities.

INTERNAL

Cruise range available in April will keep product active and fresh in retail stores. Older 30+ affluent AB customers shown to be on the increase according to UK demographics (Mintel, March 2010).

Cash flow will be intermittent in the first year of start up.

The premium segment looks strong with key players such as Kurt Geiger showing growth (Verdict, April 2010).

Sourcing a factory that will provide a product that will suit the need of the business and the quality expected of the brand.

There is a need for a mid market premium brand that produces just footwear on the high street. Kurt Geiger dominates this area of the market and there is a need for something new.

Sourcing in Spain or Portugal means there is less frequent contact with production due to travel costs and time.

AllSaints has proven that a designer high street brand with it’s own house style can be hugely successfully not just in the UK but globally in American and the Far East.

Experience in running a business and negotiating time to design and develop a range.

There is a need for well-advised, innovative, honest footwear that isn’t over priced. “Generally I believe there is a lot of opportunity in nice products” (Nina Hjorth Kurt Geiger Designer, See appendix 14 ) Competitor research highlighted that quality is attainable under £100 with the Spanish produced Camper brand. Other brands such as Kurt Geiger seem to neglect quality, as design surpasses this. Therefore there is a need for better quality footwear.

EXTERNAL

SWOT

OPPORTUNITY

THREATS

Counter act the affects of the global recession by carefully monitoring cash flow both in and out of the business. Careful attention should be made to every out going and justifying whether it is an essential spend.

Global recession continues to affect the industry including brands directly and externally though suppliers, retailers and the consumer.

Generate cash flow from external sources, whether that be the bank, private investor, friend, family and grants from for example the British Fashion Council.

Unstable financial factors such as the VAT rate and Euro to Pound exchange will affect production costs, overheads and other out goings that will essentially rise the price of the product.

Constantly research the market environment by visiting and talking to retailers, analyising the competition and evaluating the Samuel Shepherd brand.

The footwear market is a highly competitive area, there are lots of brand providing similar products at a variety of prices.

Target a core customer and find out exactly their needs, wants and desires. They will change so need researching constantly.

The larger brands such as Kurt Geiger and Office dominate the market and have mass appeal all over the country with stores in most major cities.

Look for other areas of opportunity, cash flow may be generated from freelance work for other brands.

The interest in designer or premium attire is small with only 12% of the population buying most of their clothing from this sector (Mintel, March 2010).

Actively seek promotion in magazines, celebrity wearers, fashion blogs and web sites.

Mass or disposable fashion from retailers such as Primark and H&M is popular with not just the C2 and C1 classes but the more affluent A,B consumers.

Online retail should be seen as a key area of opportunity, it offers 24hour shopping and available to anyone who has access to the internet. Social networking sites such as Twitter and Facebook should be utilisied as other forms of brand promotion and customer recognition.

Figure 2.0 - SWOT Analysis

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 15


3.6 - Market Positioning Figure 3.7 shows the proposed market positioning of the Samuel Shepherd brand against the selection of 12 of its most direct competitors.

Market positioning chart representing the competiton and the target position of the Samuel Shepherd brand. High

AS

BS

OC KG SC

Camper

R&B

Low Price

Brand positioning of Samuel Shepherd

CS PS

PG Hobbs

High

Low Fashion

Figure 2.1 - Market Positioning Chart

The market positioning chart allows the brand to asses the market with reference to fashion and average price points. It gives an indication to any potential gaps in the market where opportunity could be taken. The premium footwear market in it’s mid market positioning is generally much less saturated than the high street and luxury areas. However there are many businesses offering similar products at similar price points, therefore a new brand must stand out. Samuel Shepherd is strategically positioned in an area of opportunity. There is potential to provide footwear with classic trend influenced styling with it’s own unique identity. Brands such as Paul Smith and See by Chloe produce refined classic styles with an element of trend and most importantly realistic wearable shoes. Samuel Shepherd will echo this level of fashionability and timeless styles but with an added edge that will see some styles more daring, however not as impractical as some of the 13cm heels Kurt Geiger produces. It was noted in a recent Mintel reports consumer attitudes to more transitional pieces, “1 in 3 customers are willing to spend on timeless styles, instead of the latest trends” (Mintel, June 2010). What is noticeable from the brand positioning chart and the market in general, is there are few footwear retailers or brands that’s core business is footwear. There are more premium brands such as All Saints, Hobbs and bStore that produce substantial clothing lines and a small footwear ranges. This should be seen as an area of opportunity for an exclusively footwear brand such as Samuel Shepherd, and adopt a footwear specialist position in the market.

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 16


3.7 - Price Point. Pricing is a key factor to consider as pricing varies significantly across the market. Figure 2.2 shows the analysis of the pricing structure of a standard court shoe across the market and will allow Samuel Shepherd to place itself competitively amongst the competition.

£0

Low Primark (£15) H&M (£29)

Asos (£30) Zara (£39)

TopShop (£55) Miss KG (£70) Dune (£75) Nine West (£85) Ted Baker (£90) Camper (£90) ASH (£115)

Russell & Bromley (£149) HOBBS (£149) SAMUEL SHEPHERD Marc by Marc Jacobs (£160)

Bertie (£85) Dune (£85) FCUK (£90)

£100

Steve Madden (£115 Karen Millen (£120) All Saints (£135) Reiss (£139) KG by Kurt Geiger (£150) Diesel (£160) Kurt Geiger (£170) Paul by Smith (£180) See by Chloé (£185)

£200

Pedro Garcia (£225) Opening Ceremony (£240)

£300 Paul Smith (£319) Camilla Skovgaard (£320) Burberry (£325)

Jimmy Choo (£315) Acne (£320) Lanvin (£325) Miu Miu (£330)

Armani (£365) Jonathan Kelsey (£375)

Christain Louboutin (£375) Rupert Sanderson (£375)

High

Court shoe criteria used heeled shoe, no platform or elaborate design features.

£400

Premium / designer high street market.

Figure 2.2 - Pricing structure across the footwear market.

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 17


Figure 2.2 shows a vast selection of price points in the footwear market for a classic court shoe. There are many variants that apply to the final retail price including production costs, materials, country of origin, delivery costs and profit margin. The mid market as highlighted in the table shows pricing from the premium market brands starting at just over £100 and going up to the £260 mark. Therefore pricing is very broad and making an assumption on what is a competitive price point is difficult. What is noticeable is at the luxury end of the market the entry level price for a standard court shoe is around £315 to around £375, with a considerable amount of luxury brands retailing at these price points. Taking this into consideration a reasonable assumption of a mid market price would be to take the luxury £375 for example and half it in order to get a mid way price. This would achieve a price of £187.50, and taking this figure back to the chart would suggest that some premium brands are adopting pricing around this level, such as See by Chloé, Paul by Paul Smith and Kurt Geiger. Diffusion lines such as See by Chloé and Paul by Paul Smith, give a good indication to pricing at the premium middle market. The product must be considerably different in price in order for the range to stand out as a viable new product and not get confused with the mainline collections. The Samuel Shepherd brand is directed at a premium market, therefore needs to offer a mid level price points that reflects it’s position. The company must distinguish itself from the lower high street brands and top level luxury products in order to be established in the market. Pricing plays a key part in the consumers perception of the brand, high prices can make a product seem more exclusive and pricing too low can devalue the product as opposed to making the product more attainable. “Discounting could damage the reputation of the brand and rob it of its luxury status, ultimately endangering the survival chances of the brand” (Verdict, July 2009). Although this statement is centred around discounting luxury products, you can see how this might apply to a full priced item. COURT Entry Mid

PEEP Exit Entry Mid

SANDAL Exit Entry Mid

Exit

FLATS Entry Mid

ANKLE Exit

Entry Mid

Exit Entry Mid £240

£160

£185

£258

N/A

N/A

N/A

£159

£314

£359

£50

£185

£210

£182

£215

£140

£160

£190

£195

£240

£290

£140

£180

£280

£95

£140

£190

£180

£280

N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A

£249

£299

N/A

£179

£185

£195

£255

£245

KNEE

£195

£390

£299

TRAINER Exit

Entry Mid

Exit

£315

£399

£595

N/A

N/A

N/A

£290

£390

£450

£120

£130

£150

£319

N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A

Figure 2.3 - Footwear style price points

Figure 2.3 represents the entry, mid and exit prices of footwear styles from the three closest competitors. Within the Samuel Shepherd range is important to offer a scope of price points, allowing the brand to be accessible to customers of diverse financial means. See by Chloe for example has a £50 entry level flat sandal (see figure 2.4) made from moulded rubber. Shoes that are considered more dressy or formal styles that customers might buy for special occasions have a considerably higher price compared to other styles. “You cannot underestimate the WOW Figure 2.4 - Entry price See by Chloé factor. People will find a way to pay for something they absolutely love “ (Meadows, 2009). Shoes like high heel peep toes and strappy evening styles have these higher price points. This should be taken into consideration when pricing formal or special occasion footwear in the range as larger profit margins can be made on the shoes. Brands are producing ranges with a vast pricing structure, that is more likely to attract interest from a greater number of consumers. Samuel Shepherd may initially be only a twelve style collection, but pricing should be seen to consider entry, mid and exit levels of spend.

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 18


Customers look for price first, then dazzle (design), then comfort, then quality. Most customers know quality is reflected in price”. (Nina Hjorth - Kurt Geiger designer, see appendix 14)

Nina Hjorth describes the importance of price in the sale of footwear and how it is at the forefront of the customers mind. Expensive products can lead to “cognitive dissonance” (Meadows, 2009) where the customer will question whether they have made the right purchase. Samuel Shepherd wants the footwear to remain attainable and for the customer to understand what they are getting for their money. This will be done through design, quality and company values but also with a price that is consistent, so the customer knows what to expect from the brand. Target prices will allow the company to competitively stand out from the competition and not get complacent with price variation every season. COURT

FORMAL SANDAL

FORMAL PEEP TOE

ANKLE BOOT

KNEE BOOT

£155

£180

£195

£220

£290

FLAT (open style) £120

FLAT (closed style) £195

TRAINER £120

Figure 2.5 - Target Price Points.

Figure 2.5 shows the target price points that will be used as guide each season, these have been attained through competitor research and how the Samuel Shepherd brand has been positioned in the market. Research drawn from premium footwear retailers was also used. The premium footwear retailer Spice stated that their average customer spend was around £150 (see appendix 18). Agnes & Rose and Laura J London (see appendix 16 & 17) also premium footwear retailers identified that their average spends were £180 - £200 for shoes and around £260 for boots. These figures fit comfortably with the target prices and give confidence that the brand would be a viable product range sold by these retailers. Customer must also be considered in the target price points and customer feedback can be seen from these questionnaires in figure 2.6.

Consumer feedback highlights that as said by What is the maximum amount you would spend on a pair of shoes? the retailers, people are willing to spend more on boots and as stated previously with the right “No maximum amount, if the right design, good quality... ‘wow’ factor some consumers will spend that bit nothing is stopping me!” more. Recent results from Samuel Shepherd’s “At the moment with my salary £150 if I really loved them” most dominate competitor Kurt Geiger said that it’s average in store spends were “shoppers “£300, possibly more for boots” in London spend on average £230 per designer shoe, compared to £180 for those outside the Figure 2.6 - Customer quotes on spend (see appendix 20 - 25) capital” (see appendix 28). The average price for the Samuel Shepherd brand from the target prices is £184. This makes the company confident that the target price points are realistic in today’s premium market from a competitor, retailer and consumer view point. It is important to note that these may work with the findings, but the market state will inevitably change and the company will have to be aware of this and adjust accordingly.

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 19


3.8 - PESTEL Environment

T

he PESTEL environment considers the external market including political, economic, social, technical, environmental, and legal factors.

Political - With the recent coalition government between the Conservative and Liberal Democrat party there will inevitably be changes that will directly affect the workings of the Samuel Shepherd brand.

“The industry receives virtually no help from the government - but it’s worth billions. Consumers spent £46bn on clothes and shoes alone in 2008. When I say “alone”, consider all the related industries - not just retail and all its associated spin-offs, but magazines (like GQ and its stablemates), hairdressing, photography, make-up and cosmetics, advertising, modelling. Overall, the fashion industry is Britain’s second-largest employer, but you won’t hear a politician talk about it unless they’ve been drawn into a debate on size-zero models”. Why polotics needs fashion, GQ Magazine Oct 2010 (Ed Vaizey, the Minister for Culture, Communications and Creative Industries.)

The British government is working with the British Fashion Council (BFC) to support emerging talent. The BFC currently runs three schemes, New Gen, Fashion Forward and The Vogue Designer Fashion Fund. They all provide financial and business support for emerging fashion designers in the UK. They work on the basis that companies apply for the schemes and one company is selected by a panel of industry judges to receive the support. Samuel Shepherd should seek the benefits of these schemes as they provide an amount of financial support and business mentoring. They also receive substantial press coverage in magazines such as Vogue, which could be used as a promotional platform.

Source: British Fashion Council.

Economic - The economy is the wealth and resources of a country or region, especially in terms of the production and consumption of goods and services. Factors that will affect the business include: • VAT increase “There is a risk that VAT could rise to 20% this year” (Verdict, April 2010). It has recently been passed that as of the 4th January 2011, VAT will rise to 20%. This will affect the business in many ways. External costs and general running costs will increase. The cost of the footwear at retail will go up, for example a £155 court shoe will increase by £ 3.30 to £158.30. This may only be a small amount, but to a customer who now pays more for essentials like food and house hold payments, commodities such as fashion footwear is inevitably going to suffer. Samuel Shepherd will have to counter act these changes by pre planning a budget, reduce spending where possible to release finance when business might be tough and alter the profit margin of the footwear in order to account for more costly overheads. • Footwear sales as with most areas of fashion product has been hit by the recession, “2009 was one of the toughest ever years for retailers, as trading conditions deteriorated and consumer confidence reached a low. Expenditure on footwear fell by 1.5% to £5,505m – the first decline since 1999” (Verdict, April 2010). Customers are still spending with caution and as stated in Drapers “84% of consumers think the economy is still in recession’”(Ruston, 2001). The Samuel Shepherd brand will have to produce a footwear range that translates the company’s ethos of well designed, good quality footwear in order to attain the consumers confidence in spending again. The retailers are too going to be cautious on the ranges they buy, meaning the business will have to assure them too that the product will sell even at uncertain economic times. • With the international nature of the footwear industry, supply and production is likely to occur abroad. This means the Samuel Shepherd brand is going to have to deal with foreign currency. With the exchange rate changing so frequently, the company’s profit margin is unpredictable. “Simply put, it is highly risky, a bad week for the pound can see it change by 4-6% and can easily turn a profitable line into a loss maker” Jeremy Cook, chief economist, World First UK (see appendix 26). There are options available to the business in order CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 20


to protect its profits. Hedging is a technique to reduce financial risk, and can be utilised when contracts are being signed for things such as factory production. Companies such as World First Ltd are foreign exchange brokers and allow businesses better foreign exchange and advice. Advice they provide include a ‘vanilla option’ where by the buyer or Samuel Shepherd protects itself at a level when signing contracts with suppliers. For example the business might have budgeted that the sterling to euro exchange rate will be 1.18 when payment is due for the S/S12 range in February. However when February comes the sterling / euro exchange rate will either be trading above or below 1.18. Therefore worst case scenario the business looses money as the pound gets weaker or works in favour of the company and gets stronger. With the Vanilla option when contracts are signed the business signs that come payment time in January if the pound gets weaker, the currency at the time of contract is used, however if it gets stronger the brand takes the benefit of the higher trading rate of the day. This means the Samuel Shepherd brand would be able to budget much more accurately and not suffer unexpected weak sterling / euro trading and experience potential financial issues.

Social and Cultural -

Social or the society is the community or the people. The culture is the social customs, arts, social institutions, and achievements of a particular nation or society. • Society has seen a rise in the ‘25-34 age group, which will increase by 11% (0.9 million) in the next five years’ (Mintel, June 2010). This is a positive change for the Samuel Shepherd brand as its core consumer is within this age range. According to Mintel there will also be an increase in affluent consumers “UK demographics shows increasing numbers affluent A/B upper and middle class consumers” (Mintel, March 2010). This is also a positive change for the brand as a premium footwear brand with a mid market price point, more consumers are going to be able to afford higher price points. • Celebrity is an important influence to customers as highlighted in the in depth analysis of Kurt Geiger. Within our celebrity culture today famous faces are constantly used as muses to fashion brands from luxury to high street labels. • “Style, cut, fabrication and the feel good factor are the top positive attributes” (Mintel, March 2010). Customer are more aware of the finer details of what they buy, something that might have come from the poor quality of mass produced fashion that is seen so frequently on the high street. These results are positive for the Samuel Shepherd brand as they support the brands values on quality and design. • Women have been seen to cut back on their spending and are more likely then men to say “they can’t afford designer clothes and to feel guilty about spending a lot of money on them” (Mintel, March 2010). The business will need to make sure that pricing is highly justified with well realised quality footwear that the customer will not doubt spending money on.

Technological -

The internet is of course one of the most revolutionary technical resources that has changed the way footwear and fashion related products are sold today. Technology is changing the way fashion is sold, produced and promoted. • Footwear production today is influenced Tell me about the shoes you are wearing today, why did you buy them? by technology from the design stage to the Georgina Goodman factory. Programs such as Adobe Illustrator allow designers to produce computer aided Red leather, with an unusual round wooden black and brown stripey heel. Bow tie at the front made from the type of flat lace you get in trainers. designs and greatly speed up the design Entirely hand made and VERY comfortable! stages. Factories will more than likely have a Bought them from vivaladiva.com years ago CAD style system for aiding the production of sole units, uppers and logo details. Leather Figure 2.7 - Customer quote (see appendix 20) and pattern pieces can be cut from CAD software eliminating the need for workers in some areas of production. The Samuel Shepherd business will consider technology in all areas of the business. Technology is seen to greatly reduce time and cost something of value to any business. • “My-wardrobe continues to grow at a rapid pace, having achieved an extremely healthy 169 percent jump in sales in its third year, growing from £1.56m in sales in 2008 to £4.23m in the fiscal year ending March 2009”. (Amed, Imran. CEO talk, Sarah Curran, Founder & CEO mywardrobe.com). My wardrobe is one of the largest online stores for premium fashion or as they describe it ‘everyday luxury’. The internet provides a new 24 hour retail space for designer and one the Samuel Shepherd brand should take advantage of whether this is through retailers such as MyWardrobe or with it’s own online store. “Footwear specialists across Europe have been slow to launch online, despite the sales growth witnessed by clothing players online. We expect this to be a strong growth channel in years to come” (Mintel, August 2010). • Twitter, Facebook and phone applications have also been adopted by many fashion brands to promote themselves and communicate to their customers. It is a cost effective way to speak to people on a global scale instantly. Kurt Geiger for example has a Facebook page (see figure 2.8) where they post images of CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 21


celebrities wearing their shoes and their sales start for example. Fashion also become popular online, with the anyone who as a passion for a given subject the masses. A recent Mintel report states high-end buyers are more influenced by general public ‘5% vs 2%’ (Mintel, March

promote when bloggers have opportunity for to influence that designer/ blogs than the 2010).

• Bloggers are very influential today and found on the front rows of fashion shows. Shepherd needs to invest time and money in it’s online presents. It must seek the the internet as a promotional tool and communicating with its customer. A online store should also be considered finances allow. It is the most cost effective the product direct from the brand to the apposed to wholesaling the product. There then the benefits that the online stock will cost price and sold at retail price gaining margin as apposed to wholesale where it is price and sole at wholesale.

are often S a m u e l effectively benefits of a way of transactional as soon as way of selling customer as are of course be bought at a greater profit bought at cost

Figure 2.8 - Kurt Geiger on Facebook Source: http://www.facebook.com/pages/KG-by-Kurt-

Environmental -

Environmental and ethical issues are more important than ever in the fashion industry. More brands today have some kind of environmental policy that may not be the core values of the business, but a way of showing that they are doing their bit.

Shoes are essential to all of us, and some would argue that having 20 pairs to match any choice of clothing is essential as well. But it’s not an area that has really turned itself towards saving the planet or the people”

(Arnold, P220:2009)

• Brands such as Terra Plana and Beyond Skin are leading in way in ethically produced shoes, however the rest of the footwear industry seems to have little if no interest in the environment and the affect their company has on it. Kurt Geiger as the leading premium footwear business in the UK has no obvious signs of considering the environment in any form. In contrast Marks and Spencer has one of the strongest environmental policies on the high street, called Plan A. They are investing and collaborating with environmental advisers on how they can reduce their impact on the environment which runs through product ranges and retail stores. Brands like Marks and Spencer may not be completely 100% ethical, but they are doing their part to make a difference. According to Mintel 61% of women feel “It is important that a company acts ethically” (Mintel, February 2009). The Samuel Shepherd brand will consider the impact that the business has on the environment. Simple processes such as recycling waste material like paper and using energy saving light bulbs all contribute to the businesses environmental standards. A company in Italy called Grafitex produces environmentally friendly shoe bags which will be considered for production. The brand believes that ethical issues will be considered where possible but will not have ethics or the environment as one of its core values. The company believes the customer will appreciate the ethical response but not expect the brand to abide to strict ethical rules that it can not always adhere to. However attitudes towards ethical issues are changing and the company is going to have to act accordingly over time in order to appeal to customers forever changing viewpoint on these policies. • DEFRA The Department for Environment Food and Rural Affairs is a government sector that is supporting local businesses and their environmental approach. DEFRA’s aim to have a green economy by providing support to businesses through recycling schemes and grants. • The climate of the country does of course come under the environment, and as the UK climate changes due to global warming, so too will the footwear people buy. Colder winters are likely to increase the demand for boots, while a warmer climate in general may reduce boot sales altogether. The business will have to watch for trends in climate change which will be reflected in the sell through of the product ranges. Collections will have to adapt with a greater number of certain styles that are sufficient for the current environment.

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 22


Legal -

Businesses today must abide to a range of laws according to the type of product or service the company provides. These may include competition law, health and safety, employment and consumer law. • The most law that will affect the Samuel Shepherd brand most directly will undoubtedly be consumer law and in particular ‘The Sale of Goods Act 1979’. The regulation for this act are listed below:

The Sale of Goods Act lays down several conditions that all goods sold by a trader must meet. The goods must be: •As described •Of satisfactory quality •Fit for purpose As described refers to any advert or verbal description made by the trader. Satisfactory quality covers minor and cosmetic defects as well as substantial problems. It also means that products must last a reasonable time. But it doesn’t give you any rights if a fault was obvious or pointed out to you at point of sale. Fit for purpose covers not only the obvious purpose of an item but any purpose you queried and were given assurances about by the trader. Lamont, Duncan. Consumer Law, Januwary 2010. 18th November 2010 (http://www.bbc.co.uk/watchdog/consumer_advice/consumer_law_ sale_of_goods_emp.shtml)

• The sale of goods act means that the Samuel Shepherd brand will have to provide a high standard of footwear and a result of any poor standards are inevitably customer returns. Sourcing a factory that produces good quality footwear is obviously essential, but quality control will have to occur by the business in order to assess standard. This will be in the form of factory visits checking orders before they are sent to customers. Eliminating quality issues before it reaches the customer will enable the company to keep positive relationships with its customers and wholesale retailers. • The company may also be affected by health and safety law in the future particularly if the brand has its own studio or retail spaces. Employment laws may also come into force at this time if people are employed to work for the business. • Copyright law may also affect the company, however as the brand will have it’s own identity and be informed by trends and not produce near replicas, this law should not affect the company unless another brand copies Samuel Shepherd footwear. In this case legal action should be taken as the company must make a stance that copying is not tolerated as it can harm the brands exclusivity.

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 23


4.0 - Inspiration. 4.1 - Trend Analysis Spring / Summer 2012 The concept boards show the key looks for Spring / Summer 2011 from the luxury brands shown in Paris, Milan, London and New York. Although Samuel Shepherd will be producing for Spring / Summer 2012, the nature of the industry working a year in advance will see trends from the high end filter through into other areas of the market in SS12.

LESS IS MORE SPRING SUMMER 11 TRENDS

minimalism delicate sandals stella mccartney

white palette lanvin

sophisticated burberry chloé chloé

celine

lanvin

sharp & sleek Pantone 5803C

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 24

Pantone 487C

Pantone 8021C

Pantone Cool Grey 1C

Pantone Cool Grey 1C

celine

Pantone 7541C


BLOCK COLOUR SPRING SUMMER 11 TRENDS

bright & fresh paul smith

70’s inspired

candy palette

lanvin

burberry

jill sander stella mccartney

lanvin celine

Pantone 7447C

Pantone 611C

Pantone 7490C

Pantone 1655C

Pantone 1935C

Pantone 7455C

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 25


NATURE INSPIRED SPRING SUMMER 11 TRENDS

bright and zingy

earthy theme

bold prints jill sander

clashing palette miu miu

alexander mcqueen

givenchy

paul smith jill sander

Pantone 177C

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 26

Pantone 1245C

Pantone 1245C

Pantone 628C

Pantone 522C

Pantone 241C


Contrasting materials

Details

4.2 - WGSN Early Trend Analysis Spring / Summer.

Tacked

DETAILS Early predictions from WGSN for spring / summer 2012 suggest craft detailing showing construction elements. Tacked stitching and obvious stitching as a detail rather than having a physical purpose.

©WGSN 2010

Aggressive grains

Metal detail or armoured upper pieces are a key look. Welded features such as toe caps and heel fittings are harsh styling details that add contrast to leather uppers. Textured grain

Combined

Printed grain

Recycled

Hand-drawn

Disparate elements

Worn or used look detail is coming though. As with the visible stitch detail, heel screws become uncovered.

Armoured Welded Hammered

Semi-precious stones

Tassel lacing and tassel decorative pieces that may extend to elaborate heels as seen in the example in the picture below.Curly and long-haired furs

©WGSN 2010

Non-leather Unruly and clipped Natural and dyed

Organic shapes and natural fibres a primary theme Canvas of the season. Wood grain

MATERIALS Alternative materials to leather include canvas for a more natural feel. A worn look is favoured with potential for subtle prints on top of this.

ments

Natural hair with an earthy worn look follows the nature theme that is left to look old and rugged.

Curly and long-haired furs

Unfinished

Tassels

Unruly and clipped

Crafted finish

Natural and dyed

Oversized proportions

Wood grain

Raw materials

Decorative

Wood grain textures are key in hand drawn, printed grain and textured grain styles.

Ceremonial Graphic

Leather appears with markings and imperfections with uneven and heavy grain.

Shredded textures

Coral and turquoise Hand-drawn

HARDWARE-

Mineral stones

Paint washes

Deckchair stripes

Natural or recoloured ysatnaf lanoitcnuF yranidro eht gnitrevbuS

Lace

seidorap sselemiT

©WGSN 2010

Printed grain

Textured grain Washed and sun-bleached

Soles featureAggressive cleangrains fluid clines with an innovative Satin elegance and modern aesthetic.

dekcolB

Block heels with angular shapes and block colour©WGSN 20 are a practical trend. Heels become statement piece taking all the emphasis away from a simple upper pattern. Unusual hardware mix is also key with EVA and espadrille materials seen together.

©WGSN 2010 Linear

Heels and platforms feature an overlapping structure that gives a half constructed look.

Overlapping Graphic lacitcarP stuc ralugnA mroftalP

©WGSN 2010

lateM

Washed and faded Aged and dulled Mediumweight qualities

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 27


T

rends will influence Samuel Shepherd for the SS12 collection as outlined in the brand values. It is important however that trends are considered and the range still attains the company’s identity. Seasonal trends are dictated by Haute Couture and Designer collections from New York, London, Milan and Paris. The concepts boards represent the three key seasonal trends, Less is More, Block Colour and Nature Inspired collated by the brand of key looks that are favoured by Samuel Shepherd. Brands such as Celine, Jill Sander, Stella McCartney and Chloé are seen as aspirational brands as they share similar contemporary aesthetic. They have been included specifically on the inspirational boards as they have reference to more than one theme within their collections. The brand will use these themes to create it’s own SS12 concepts to inspire it’s range in order to create a distinguishable collection. Footwear styles are influenced by clothing collections with footwear complimenting the clothing in order to create a cohesive outfit. Figure 3.0 shows the women’s footwear shapes for SS11 according to WGSN the global trend prediction website. Samuel Shepherd will assess the key styles each season and select the appropriates looks that work for the brand. Consumer, climate and production possibilities will all of course influence the styles to be produced. Footwear shapes that are of most relevance to the brands aesthetic include: • Pared down brogue - clean British style that is easy to wear with a smart casual look. • Simple multi strap - classic transitional look that has longevity in any wardrobe. Hardware details can add a statement look. • Layered and draped uppers in plush leathers. • Clean jewelry embellishments could add a statement look to simple styles.

1

HIGH HEELS Strung together Integrated jewelry Draped Foot covering Layered Plain / simple

3

MID HEELS

High cut Sensible Debutante pump Solid foot covering Layered upper 60’s ankle

2 4

SANDALS

Simple multi strap Covered Layered panel School shoe Super unstructured

FLATS

Pared down brogue Pilgrim pump Woven lace up Girly flat Strap focus

Figure 3.0 - WGSN SS11 women’s footwear key shapes Combining research from the SS11, early Spring Summer 2012 analysis from WGSN (see 4.2) trends and catwalk collections Samuel Shepherd will create his own design concept for the season that will inevitably work with these trends to ensure the collection is current for the season. Samuel Shepherd the designer encapsulates his personal style into his work. He appreciates clean minimal aesthetic that is well cut, of quality with a flash of colour. He appreciates designers such as Paul Smith, Celine, and COS as they encapsulate timeless styles with highly realised designs. Simply put it, he appreciates the finer beauty of footwear, from a well proportioned last shape to a beautiful cut upper pattern. It’s about the finer details that might not be visible on the outside. Designs should be a developed process that change over time with a course of lateral thinking that informs the final product.

The concept for Spring / Summer 2012 draws from two central themes in order to produce a distinguishable range. The first theme of ‘birds’ comes from Samuel’s love of animals. Birds provide an array of textures, colour, plumage and structured forms for inspiration. Birds are seen as a starting point that will inform colour and print ideas in particular, artists such as Charley Harper and Frank Gonzales interrupt birds in a contemporary minimalist way, fitting with the brands identity. SS12 trends saw reference to nature inspired ranges from the likes of Alexander McQueen and Givenchy, making the theme a viable piece for the season. Samuel Shepherd is proud to be a British designer and is fond of British design from fashion to product design. Samuel will draw from the British theme by looking closely at British birds such as Pheasants and the bird family known as ‘Phasianidae’. A visit to the Ornithology department at the Natural History Museum in Tring has informed the bird research, by using their extensive specialist library and taxidermy achieve of bird species. The underlying theme of the range is ‘display’relating to the way birds and display themselves and will be combined with how humans might display themselves. Male birds use vibrant plumage as a form of sexual display which has been related to lingerie in women and how this attire has become part of sexual display. Corsets, bras and fetish wear are some of the sources that will be researched from historical examples and modern day designers such as Bordelle and Coco de Mer. Lingerie creates shape and structures around the body , all of which can be extracted and applied to footwear. Detailing such as edging, fastenings and stitching will add a construction influence to the concept. In relation to the ‘Less is More’ trend, the lingerie direction will inform this trend, while the cocktail mix with the bird themes keeps the inspiration distinguishable. Each continuous season will see a similar structure to SS12. Trend will always be considered and then translated to work for the brand. Samuel will then take inspiration from what he finds is appropriate for the season in order to keep a strong brand handwriting that is cohesive each season. CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 28


4.3 - Concept Board.

Plumage.

Birds &

Media Representation.

DISPLAY.

Anatomy.

Contour.

Bondage.

Minimalist. S

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 29


4.4 - Initial Material & Colour Board

S Pantone 571C

Pantone 310C

Pantone 166C

Pantone 517C

Pantone 3495C

Pantone 636C

Highlight colour and print.

Softer contrast suede and nubuck.

Muted earthy tones.

Pantone Black.

Maine Veg Tan Leather.

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 30

Pantone Black 2C

Pantone 533C

Pantone 7526C

Pantone 731C

Pantone 729C

Pantone 110U


4.5 - Details Board.

multiple strapping.

fleet ilya.

S

metal studs / buckles.

modimex.

saddlery style finsih. S

beak shaped last. spring line ltd.

S

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 31


C

olour, material and details options are shown in sections 4.3 and 4.5. For Spring Summer 2012 an earthy muted story features with reference to the ‘Birds and Display’ theme. Although this is an initial concept and will undoubtedly change in the project realisation stage, the board shows ideas of potential colour palettes and will become refined as the range develops. Material details and colour ways include:

• Muted earthy tones influenced by What would you like to see from a new shoe brand entering the Pheasants and other wild birds of market? Britain. Tonal rustic browns and tans are brushed with blacked Some colours ... too much black and brown ! flecks of colour. A contrasting deep blue with a hint of purple tone and Figure 3.1 - Customer quote striking red mix add highlights tot the colour palette. The lighter tans are perfect for a lighter summer feel, while still holding certain wearability making them easily transitional into winter. The lighter blue highlights and red tones could be used in hardware, stitch or fastening details to add summer colour. One of the main values of the Samuel Shepherd brand is humour and this will come through in the colour and material selections. Flashes of bright colour and printed linings will add a kooky edge to the footwear. • Pheasant feathers and other Bird markings are keen to be used as a printed feature. Feathers would be to impractical for the mid market and therefore taking these markings and applying them to leathers could provide some distinguishable details. Prints will need to be kept clean and wearable with nothing to outlandish, as the footwear needs to remain tasteful and have longevity in the customers wardrobe. • Materials sourced from a trip to Lineapelle in October 2010 have been included on the board. The suedes in the lower left hand corner by Abip, have a glossy fleck texture that is subtle and has a similar look to the markings of the Pheasant. • Other colour palettes that work well include the mustard yellow with the black and brown contrast. This variation fits with the trends seen in SS11, particularly the ‘Less is More’ theme that has a very muted tonal colour way. Burberry contrasted this soft theme with harsh black details that worked well in highlighting design features and providing a more edging look. This works well and is something that is seen in the colour ways of birds plumage with soft tones that work together with a distinct sharp contrast of block colour, like on the head area of the Pheasant. These harsh contrasts could work well with soft fluid coloured uppers and more contrasting heels, fastenings and stitching. • The photograph by British photographer Nick Knight in the top left corner of the board is a particular key image of inspiration. The variance between the birds soft earthy colouring and the contrast of the vibrant pastel blocks work well. This kind of combination used in the right way will add a vibrant palette to the Spring Summer collection. It is important that the range features some colour as there are so many black and brown shoes as noted by one customer questioned in the questionnaire (see figure 3.1).

Details. • The lingerie theme of the concept for SS12 will not heavily influence the colour palette. The majority of underwear is either black, white or pale in colour and does not provide much scope for colour inspiration. However shape, structure, fastening and more physical qualities prove there is opportunity. • Leather bondage and corsets as shown in the details board from Fleet Ilya the luxury fetish wear brand. These are finished in lush heavy saddlery leather with a polished finish and colour treated edging. • The shape and form that the lingerie creates on the body in both negative and positive space will provide structural influence and lines that will create the upper details and other elements. • Buckles will be statement in metallic high shine finishes to contrast with the muted colour palette. Other fastenings of research will include the hook style fastenings and lacing found in lingerie and corsetry. • Last shapes will be strong and beak shaped taken from the central Bird theme. Pointed shoe shapes were seen on the catwalk in SS11 from the likes of Jil Sander, so it is likely to be something that will filter through in Spring Summer 2012. • A subtle pointed last was chosen from Spring Line Ltd the last supplier in Northampton. It was important that it was not too extreme as this might affect wearability, however it still needed to retain a distinguishable look. • Lingerie works particularly well for a Spring Summer collection with strapping being a key part of the structure, working well with open sandal styles. • Heels and platforms will become influenced by the two central themes of the concept. A heel needs to subtly work with the upper and will be more about line and structure as apposed to a statement feature of the shoe. • There is potential to make heels or platforms more interesting with printed leathers using the plumage markings of the Pheasant.

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 32


5.0 - Range Plan. Type.

Style.

Description.

High top

Contemporary sneaker, stylish yet comfortable. No brash logo’s just simple easy to wear with a formal look. Plush leathers and quirky design features.

Mid heel

Everyday court shoe, potential work wear style. Leather, last shape and upper cut important as styling is minimal.

High heel

More daring heel height (maximum 10cm). Remains minimal in design, potential press piece, but equally for more formal occasions.

Wedge

Wedge style with court style upper. Higher 10cm heel as easier to wear with the wedge heel. Aimed at women who want height without the wearabilty issue with a heel.

Shoe boot

Ankle booty

Ankle style boot, clean cut with heel. Possible transitional footwear from Summer to Autumn. Potential peep toe boot, on trend look for SS11.

Flat (open)

Ballerina

Simple open cut ballerina style. Easy to wear style and as a cheaper product comes at an entry price allowing customer with less spending power to buy into the brand.

Trainer

Court

Flat (closed) Brogue

Mid

Summer flat sandal, for summer climate and a potential holiday product. One style will be casual and the other more formal. Both could equally be worn all day depending on the customer requirements. Everyday sandal, easy to wear with a walkable heel height. Clean sophisticated shape makes it wearable with multiple outfits.

Heel

High heeled sandal, formal style / special occasion piece. Not for everyday, although some business women might consider it. Statement press piece style, transitional through seasons.

Wedge

Wedge sandal, smart / casual style. Everyday wear and potential holiday piece with a transitional look at will take the customer from day to evening.

High heel

High heeled peep toe (maximum height 10cm). Smart /casual style with potential for work. A sexier court shoe.

Flat x 2 Sandal

Peep toe

Brogue or closed shoe style, comfortable easy to wear and can be worn both smart and casual. Typical British style is suited to the British values of the brand.

Max heel I would consider wearing 12.5cm. Max heel height I would consider comfortable is 10cm”. (Nina Hjorth - Kurt Geiger designer, see appendix 14)

The SS11 range consists of seven styles with options under some of the collection. The range plan has been formed with reference to the competitor, customer and retailer research. In particular premium footwear retailers gave insight into their customer views on heel height and what they would consider wearable. From this the range will only go over 10cm with a press style shoes and feature a variety of flat, mid and high heels. Mid heels are clearly a popular style, while younger customers are willing to wear a higher What is the maximum heel height you would consider ‘wearable’ heel. Shoe retailer Chinelli echoed and how important is this to the customer ? the thoughts of the London retailer, Over 10cm is not sellable, higher heels are more of a fashion thing. showing that a regional customer base Wedges sell better and hidden platforms are more comfortable. are looking for similar qualities. It is Agnes & Ross - Marleybone London therefore important that the range has options, considering the right product We sell more mid height heels here, I do however carry high styles to add to the range on offer. mix for multiple customers and retailers. A trainer features in the range as this Laura J Shoes - Islington London is something that is frequently been 10 cm is too high for some customers. Mid heels at 6 - 7 cm are popular produced by luxury designers such Spice - Islington London as Christian Louboutin and Georgina Goodman. There is a need for trainers Most customers wouldn’t go higher than 10cm, there are however some that are not the brash logo ridden Nikes, braver younger customers who would go higher. and have more of a subtle formal look. Chinelli Shoes - York Comfort is high on customers agendas highlighted in customer research (see section 6.0). Transitional pieces will Figure 3.2 - Retailer answers to questionnaire ( see appendix 16 - 19 ) ensure the customer sees longevity in the footwear which will be considered in shoe style and design. CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 33


C

6.0 - Consumer Research. ustomer questionnaires where conducted in three ways, on the Internet using a resource called Survey Monkey, in the street of London in popular shopping areas such as Westfield shopping centre and Oxford Street and with a small focus group. All 27 participants who completed the questionnaire have been included in the results. The small focus group will be looked at more closely as these are the core aspirational customers.

With reference to chart 1.0, customers felt that what they would like to see most from a new footwear brand (in order) was comfort, design/ affordable. 7% material, quality and affordability. 19% Comfort and quality were stated a size/fit. lot by customers when referring to 19% the shoes that they were wearing or what they wanted from their colour. 19% footwear. Although only a small number of people mentioned fit and quality. 22% size (7%), there are still people who are looking for half size footwear, 7% 7% wider fitting boots and less narrow comfort. shoes. What is noticeable is while design and material are high on heel variation. customers needs, the physical working attributes like fit, comfort and heel variation are rated most highly. Two consumers said on what Chart 1.0 - What would you like to see from a new footwear brand entering the market? they would like to see from a new shoe brand are : “Shoes that are made with fashion and comfort in mind”and “A brand that like feet! Beautiful shoes at a reasonable price that don’t cripple your feet” (see appendix 24 and 25) design/material.

One interesting factor that was mentioned was the need for mid market brands. “There is nothing quite inbetween Kurt Geiger and high end luxury” (see appendix 25).Some customers are looking for the quality footwear and are willing to pay the price, but not that of the high end luxury brands. One 60+ years of age consumer said she wanted “Better made shoes for women, like Church’s for men” (see appendix 26). She also stated how she rarely bought full price items and waited for the luxury labels to go into sale. A mid market brand that offered quality design, material and comfort could provide a well priced product of a similar standard to luxury at a competitive price. Camper proves quality and comfort can be attainable at £100 and these customers are willing to spend beyond this (see chart 1. 4). Chart 1.2 shows women’s responses to their attitudes about fashion trends. The majority of customer are either not driven by trends (37%) or somewhat influenced (37%). 26% of people said somewhat. yes they are driven by trend. Consumers 26% mostly mentioned that they are aware of 37% them, but do not religiously follow them. no. “I embrace trends but don’t follow them religiously. I interrupt the latest trends yes. for me” (see appendix 24). Trends are clearly important whether customers 37% have a desire for them or not, customers are aware of them and may not realise the affect trends have on their footwear choices. Fashion trends are more widely published today in weekly magazines such as Grazia, which features a mix of Chart 1.2 - Are you driven by current fashion trends? fashion and celebrity coverage. The most fashion aware Vogue readers are not just the fashion informed anymore. It lies with the brand to translate the key looks accordingly to their customer, something Samuel Shepherd will find in the closer look at the focus group. CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 34


Chart 1.3 shows the results for the amount people are prepared to spend on their footwear. 52% of consumers are willing to spend over £200 and 30% £100 - 200, which are positive results in £200 + relation to the target prices forecasted. Women are prepared to spend money 30% on footwear even if it is beyond their £100 - 200 52% financial means, particularly for special occasions. One participant stated that £50 - 100 she had spent “£460 on Christian Louboutin’s for work” (see appendix 27). As highlighted previously, special £0 - 50 18% occasion shoes can warrant a higher mark up as customers are prepared to pay more for a special piece. However what is also clear is the lengths some women will go to to buy brands such as Christian Louboutin, that are out of their price limit, for one off purchases. Chart 1.3 - Consumer spend on footwear. Not one of the 27 participants said they spend £0 - 50, which is surprising with so many fast fashion retailers such as H&M and New Look with very low price points. As with the previous chart 1.0, customers are looking for better quality footwear, therefore maybe there is a change in customer attitudes to fast fashion, as despite being a low price, it also comes with low quality. In relation to age and customer spend, chart 1.4 shows the correlation between these two factors. What is most noticeable from the chart is that maturer customers pay more for their footwear. Particularly in the 35 - 44 age group, their spend is over £100 - £200 +, making them the biggest spending age range on the maximum amount they are prepared to pay for their footwear. The 25 - 34 age group also showed a high amount of maximum spend with seven of the eleven people questioned spending £100 - 200 +. The 15 - 24 age group surprisingly showed a high maximum spend with half the people surveyed saying they would spend £100 - 200 + on their footwear.

amount.

It is clear that maturer customers are more likely to have a maximum spend, which is likely down to their higher income level, meaning they have more disposable finance to spend 6 on commodities such as footwear. However the 15 - 24 age group still have spending power, whether it is in 5 £200+ their financial means or not. Although these consumers are likely to be driven £100 - 200 more by brand and trend, due to peer 4 £50 - 100 pressure and social status, they will £0 - 50 spend beyond £100. One 15 - 24 year old 3 participant replied when asked said her maximum spend was “£190 Ugg boots” (see appendix 28). Ugg is a brand to 2 be seen in and consequently has a mass following, similar to that of the iconic Christian Louboutin brand and 1 the red sole. Chart 1.5 shows peoples responses to the question, ‘What is your favourite shoe brand or designer?’. 0 15 - 24 25- 34 35 - 44 44 + The most prevalent response at 36% age. was Christian Louboutin. There was a high response of consumers stating that they either owned a pair, many Chart 1.4 - Footwear spend in relation to age. for special occasions or would like to own some. Brand following is therefore strong and even a luxury brand with extortionate pricing can attract not just the wealthy A social class, but even the aspirational B and C1 groups.

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 35


Kurt Geiger was also another brand that was referred too with 11% of consumers saying that is was a favourite brand of theirs. There were also several participants that rated Kurt Geiger’s product as an aspirational brand that people couldn’t afford. These are positive results for the Samuel Shepherd brand as premium footwear businesses such as Kurt Geiger have a position amongst consumers next to such prestigious brands as Christian Louboutin.

other/various. clarks. 25%

kurt geiger. 36%

manolo blahnik. prada.

4%

chloe. 11%

miu miu. 4%

mulberry. christain louboutin.

The aspirational Samuel Shepherd customer is different Chart 1.5 - Favourite shoe brand / designer though. It was found that women who like Christian Louboutin and Ugg are mainly brand orientated buyers and lack individual style. The Samuel Shepherd consumer is individual and would find such brands too extensively worn and would seek distinguishable brands in order to stand out as an independent person. She appreciates the product more than the brand.

6.1 - Focus Group. The focus group conducted included four women all aged 25 - 44 in successful city job roles and earning 50 - 100K + a year. These are the aspirational women that fit with one of the core customer groups of the Samuel Shepherd brand. They are high earners, some with families and know exactly what they want from their footwear. The most relevant questions within the questionnaire will be looked at, with some quotation references included. See appendix 20 - 23 for focus group questionnaires. Where do you buy your footwear?

“Selfridges, Harvery Nics, LK Bennett, while travelling” “Russell & Bromley, Georgina Goodman, Office, Boutique-type shops and in local towns” The group response on where they shopped was interestingly varied. Including such contrasts as Georgina Goodman and the high street brand Office. They clearly shop everywhere and anywhere and had little, if any brand loyalty. Boutique and local town shopping is popular with this type of customer. As busy workers they get little time to shop and local boutique shoe retailers such as Spice with shops in Angel Islington and Primrose Hill, offer shoe therapy for these women where they reside. Are you driven by current fashion trends?

“Not really in shoe wear, I like more elegant classic shoes that are more expensive. If I want trendy shoes I buy them in Zara and then throw them out 4 months later” “To a certain extent, but I like classic styles that will last me several seasons as I like to buy quality shoes that last. If I was going to buy a very ‘in’ shoe, I’d probably just get it from New Look or Topshop and then recycle it via a charity shop” There is a general attitude that shoes are different from clothing and need to have longevity in their wardrobes as they generally spend more on them. Although they are clearly influenced by certain trends as they will purchase from high street brands such as Topshop and Zara. This highlights the flexibility of the consumer and how they will buy products from all areas of the market from high street to more luxury brands.

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 36


What is the maximum amount you would spend on a pair of shoes?

“£300, possibly more for boots” “Just spent £350 on Prada shoes, but would normally only spend £50 - £75” “ No maximum amount, if right design, good quality... nothing is stopping me !” As with trend, maximum spend is mixed, with the potential to spend £300 or more. However there may be potential to spend high amounts, but it is not essential as they are quite happy to spend under £100. What was noticeable was the little reference to brand and more interest in design and quality, and whether the footwear they liked just happened to be Prada it meant very little to them.

What is your favourite shoe brand / designer?

“Italian design in general” “I love the designs at the top end ie Georgina Goodman & Chloé, but have never bought them. The brand I own most shoes from is Russell & Bromley” The group had a mixed view on which brands they favour. Most like conservative brands such as LK Benett and Russell and Bromley with their classic design aesthetic. However brands such as Georgina Goodman and Chloé where suggested as aspirational brands which are labels with recognisable personal identity. This is positive feedback for the Samuel Shepherd brand as they were showing interest in distinguishable brands rather than just businesses with a classic design image such as Russell and Bromley.

What would you like to see from a shoe brand entering the market?

“Nice heels that I can wear for work that aren’t 8 inches high” “Affordable style but not too cheap, good quality leather, classic designs” Working 5 days, if not more a week these consumers wear a work style shoe the majority of the time. This is probably true of most of the consumers of the mid market as they need to earn in order to afford the higher price points. Even with earning over £50K and in some cases over £100K, there remains an attitude that footwear must be affordable. Quality leather and of course classic design are required as statement footwear would not fit with their work attire.

Tell me about the shoes you are wearing today?

“Prada, needed decent shoes for an event” “Black boots, top of the boot in crocodile... stunning ! Shop find in the South of France which design the last shape and you choose the fabric, leather and colour.... your imagination has no limits !” “Georgina Goodman, red leather with an unusual wooden black and brown stripey heel. Entirely hand made and VERY comfortable ! Bought them from vivaladiva.com years ago” There is again reference to buying expensive shoes for a special occasion. Customised shoes were also mentioned, which shows this customers passion for good footwear, but also exactly what they want. The last quotation states her Georgina Goodman shoes as very ‘comfortable’ and that she bought them ‘years ago’ . These qualities will have the customer coming back in the future and the customer here is clearly willing to share her love for her footwear and what they have done for her. Internet shopping is of course something else that is mentioned here, showing these time conscience women will shop for their footwear online.

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 37


How would you describe your style? Do you dress to... express yourself, for comfort etc?

“Depends where I am going, but generally to impress and express!” “I wear mainly black most of the time but accessorise it with a bag or shoe (colour)” “Elegant work attire, need to impress but within the realms of practical” As successful women they all showed a level of work elegance about their dress that is clean and simple. Shoes are used to accessorise an outfit with colour. They noticeably want to stand out at work, but not overtly, their footwear can allow them to do this, as with the Prada shoes the participant bought for a special occasion.

From the focus group the key findings include: • They are very aware of what they want and prepared to shop everywhere and anywhere to find it. From this the Samuel Shepherd brand will need to wholesale the product to smaller boutique shops in noted areas of affluence where the customer resides. Department stores are also popular with this customer and should also be considered as major stockists as well as the internet. • Practicality and comfort are high on the customer agenda going as far to have custom made shoes created. Quality and comfort must be considered highly in the Samuel Shepherd range the customer is very much aware of these finer details. • Work shoes / formal shoes for events are a must have style, as these consumers need shoes to impress at work and at related events. • They are aware of trends and although they would go to the high street for such styles, Samuel Shepherd should use it’s distinguishable identity, quality and trend influence to target these customers.

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 38


7.0 - Aspirational Customer. customer a.

can always be found in here.

love !

n.

ski

ole

m my

stival.

usic fe bestival m

I am 23 years old and a recent University graduate. I work as a PA earning £20K a year. Live in Dalston, I can’t resist the Jazz Bar on a Saturday night. Love baking in my free time, adore the Hummingbird Bakery. Attend Bestival music festival every year with my friends over in the Isle of White. I am super organised, would not be without my Moleskin diary. I cycle when I can, although it has to be the bus otherwise, you miss so much being underground. I read the Sunday Time every week, particularly the style magazine for the clothes I long to afford. COS and Topshop are my favourite high street stores. I have a clean cut style that works for me, I like to layer things. Occasionally I splash out on a more expensive things, I’d definitely stop at Whistles first.

e rit

ou fav e.

zin

ga ma

gradua te.

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 39


consumer b.

. k r o Y YO1 s Coggle Sarah

- York

eclectic mix.

Bettys tea room.

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 40

I live and work in York North Yorkshire. I work in marketing and live with my husband and young son. I shop everywhere and anywhere. With a limited selection of shops in York I shop online frequently. I am a loyal shopper and love an authentic brand with a clean no fuss style like Margaret Howell and Whistles. Cornwall is my holiday destination of choice, Pladstow is just beautiful. My style is quite loose with lots of tonal pieces. Quality is important to me in everything I buy from food to fashion. My house is very important to me and I love decorating it myself. The interior is a mix of vintage finds and Habitat.

favourit eb

rands.

gardening.


consumer c.

e.

utiqu

l bo Loca

KT10

. y e r r - Su Th e peop le’s su pe rmark et

I live in Godstone Surrey. I like to be in a commutable distance to London, but the city is too hectic for me now. The People’s Supermarket is my first port of call when I visit London. Food for the people by the people. Jigsaw is one of my favourite high street brands and Ally Capellino has supplied me with a vast bag collection over the 30 years I have known the brand. Living in the country I have acquired a taste for the country way of living, from buying organic produce to owning my own animals. Bernard of Esher is my local boutique. I can’t resist their Pedro Garcia range of footwear. I often go to France with my family. I love shopping in other countries, particularly Italy, they have such a classic elegant style that is timeless.

Sout h

of Fr ance

.

rite

vou Fa d.

rea

Orla Kiley.

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 41


Consumer a. Consumer A is a younger 20 - 30 year old aspirational customer. She appreciates the finer details of the products in her life from the clothes she buys to the food she eats. Her style is clean with a no fuss aesthetic, her fashion buys have longevity in her wardrobe and rarely buys into catwalk trends. As a low earner, student or recent graduate she has little disposable income, but when available to her, her purchases are considered. Consumer A sits within the C1 working class social group. High street stores such as Topshop and Uniqlo provide a level of style at an affordable price and she frequently shops there. Aspirational mid market premium brands like Whistles and COS are not out of her limits and will spend sometimes out of her means for something desirable. The brands she wears has little importance to her other than that she appreciates their identity and her purchases are solely on product design, feel and quality. Consumer A will spend more on footwear and accessories as these are items she considers to have more life than some of the disposable high street clothes she buys. Her footwear is reflective of her minimalistic style, she rarely wears heels unless she is at work or going out in the evening. Wedges are a key item in her wardrobe to give her height while still providing some comfort. Her urban lifestyle provides her with a wealth of brands at her disposal, although she can be found in vintage stores. Her image can only be described as unique, she doesn’t stand out from the crowd but has a pristine appearance that she is well known for. Her image excides into her clothing and lifestyle choices with a love for interior finishes and cooking. She enjoys good food and although she can not afford to fine dine, will cook some culinary treats for herself and friends. Consumer A may not have the financial means that make her the primary consumer of the Samuel Shepherd brand but her passion and willingness to spend on quality and beautiful products means she is a likely customer. As a premium footwear brand, Samuel Shepherd is accessible to this type of customer. It is at not such an extreme price as a luxury label, but within the financial means of consumers on a starting salary. This was supported in the customer questionnaires conducted with some women going way beyond their means for something they really wanted.

Consumer b. Consumer B is a maturer 30 - 40 year old customer who is seen as the primary purchaser of the brand. She is a successful women with a stable level income of over £40K a year. Likely to be in a relationship or just starting a family this consumer has disposable income to spend, but still has a level of sensibility. Consumer B is categorised in the A or B social status group of middle to higher class. In many ways Customer B is an older Consumer A who now has the financial means to buy the brands she used to desire. Her style is clean and relaxed with layers of tonal items and flash’s of colour or pattern. As a busy worker her style is mainly classic smart work attire, she keeps it sleek and minimal with clothes from Whistles and See by Chloé. She likes her footwear to stand out and add a little edge to her look whether that be though design or colour. Heels are important at work as they give her added confidence, she would not however go above a 10cm heel unless she adored the style. Transitional work to evening pieces are paramount as she routinely goes from office to social events. Her work look could be considered androgynous with her highly tailored look which she sometimes finishes off with some sleek brogues that are comfortable yet formal. Customer B is aware of current fashion trends but does not religiously follow them. Her look is her own, constructed of the things she appreciates. Weekends and holidays are times to relax and catch up with her family and friends. Her style is more relaxed yet still highly presentable, this consumer finds it hard to dress down. Customer B has many footwear styles for all occasions and likes her footwear to last. Comfort and quality come before design, she would not buy something if it did not feel right. The overall shopping experience is essential to this customer, it is not just about the footwear but the whole package. The primary customer of the Samuel Shepherd brand is a hard customer to appeal. She is a head strong customer who knows the market well and knows exactly what she wants. However her free spirited shopping style means she will buy from new brands. This consumer group is, as Mintel states, a growing and key customer “the two growth sectors are 25-34 and 45-54s” (Mintel, March 2010). In fact the premium market according to Mintel has, a wide spread interest from consumers of all ages “While the 16-44 age groups are the keenest on premium clothing, the appeal of the mid-market stretches much more evenly to include 45-54s” (Mintel, March 2010).

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 42


Consumer c. Consumer C is the oldest of the Samuel Shepherd aspirational customers and of 40+ years of age. There is no limit on the age of this consumer as the Samuel Shepherd’s shoes are universally wearable and could be right for any women of any age. This customer is wise and her passion for clothing and looking good is well refined. She is the most loyal of customers as her years of experience and she consistently goes back to the ones she adores. She is successful in her own right, a highly creative woman with an older family and has a disposable income to enjoy the finer things in life. Her disposable income is high with older children who now need less financial support. Shopping is a pleasurable experience and visits the fashion boutiques in her local town centre. She believes in supporting independent stores as they have more character and charm than department stores. As a mature worker in a creative environment she has a relaxed yet smart style that is an eclectic mix of more luxury brands like Paul Smith, Margaret Howell and premium brands like Jigsaw and Toast. She is quintessentially British, and supports British talent where ever she can. Ally Capellino is one of her favourite British brands which she has been a fan of since she can remember. She loves the high level of craftsmanship, from the beautiful leathers to the fine stitching. Most importantly they last forever, something she appreciates more than anything. Her shoes are quirky formal styles she usually wears a flat or mid heel. The style is clean yet a bit edgy with some charismatic design features and colour ways. Customer B is a secondary customer of the Samuel Shepherd business. The brands design identity makes it versatile for women of any age. Unlike some brands like Topshop for example who very much target a younger customer group, Samuel Shepherd is a distinguishable classic brand that’s shoes have longevity and transitional season after season. The customer at whatever age or social status appreciates the product above anything and in many ways her love for good authentic product is a hobby, with her clothing more like collectable pieces she admires as apposed to the latest fashion trend she throws out next season. Her clothes, footwear and accessories have character, meaning and purpose and contribute to how she feels and looks, it’s not artificial, it maybe influenced, but most importantly it is her.

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 43


8.0 - Supply. SHIPPING COST TO FACTORY €2

Variable material cost per unit dependant on supplier €5

Manufactured in Elda Alicante Spain

€10 TRIMS, INSOLE AND SOLE UNIT.

Ship using TNT by road €1.50 per pair

NO VAT WITH STOCK FROM EUROPE.

Landed price in UK

€40.50 approx

+ OVERHEADS / INDIRECT COSTS 30% OF FINAL COST PRICE £10

or £34.21 (at an exchange rate of 0.8448).

An average 100% instore margin. £94.44 x 2 =

£188.89 RRP

Unit cost for a standard court shoe is approximately €39. This price is dependant on the design and how long it takes to produce. More complicated styles will of course have higher production costs. There are many variables that make up the final price of a footwear style. Each footwear style will be costed with the factory at the sampling stage.

£34.21 (cost price) + £10 (overheads).

= £44.21

RRP or recommended retail price varied according to the retailer. There is generally a mark up of 2.7 added to the wholesale price. Some stores will mark up by as much as 5.

£44.21 + 45% margin = £80.38 (+ VAT at 17.5%)

£94.44 WHOLESALE

Figure 3.3 - Supply chain.

Footwear for the Samuel Shepherd brand will be produced mainly in Spain, as the cost and standard of production are appropriate for the brand and it’s position in the market. Figures 3.3 shows the structure of the supply chain and the costing at each level using a standard court shoe example from a factory based in Elda Alicante Spain. The information was provided by the Caroline Allnatt the Sales Director at Laura J Shoes Ltd (see appendix 13). It has been noted that the cost price of this particular factory example, produces a slightly higher retail price than the initial estimate. £150 was the target price of a Samuel Shepherd court shoe style, and with this factory it is around £188. Although this is not hugely off this price, reductions in costs such as materials and indirect cost will inevitably bring the price down. It is important to note that these are approximate values and with variants such as larger order quantities, costs will adjust. From the supply chain it is obvious that it will be beneficial for the business to sell it’s footwear through its own retail spaces whether that’s online or in a retail space, as well as through wholesale. Selling the product directly means a higher gross profit as if you take the selling price RRP (£188.89) and minus the cost price (£34.21) the company will make £154.68 gross profit per style. This is excluding company overheads that need to be removed from the gross profit in order to get the net profit. This is opposed to selling at wholesale where the company would make £60.23 per style (£94.44 wholesale - £34.21 cost price). This is the advantage that companies such as Kurt Geiger have with their own retail stores, as well as being a wholesale business. They are able to make more gross profit selling direct to the customer in their own stores, as they buy at cost price and sell at retail price. CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 44


Producing the Samuel Shepherd range in Spain works for the business for a number of reasons. They are as follows: • The cost price works with the target price of the business and where the company needs to be positioned against the competition in order to be distinguishable in the market. • Competitor research, particularly with the in depth look at Camper who produces their footwear range is Spain, showed very high standards of production quality. Elda in Alicante is known as Spain’s shoe making capital, and has a reputation for producing a high standard of footwear. • Spain is accessible from the UK with flights going direct to Alicante taking less than two hours. The cost is also relatively cheap with many low cost airlines flying there. Elda is only 30 minutes drive from the airport. These qualities make having control and personal contact with the factory more accessible. This will consequently reduce factory mistakes with miscommunication and generally produce a higher standard collection as the designer has seen the production from drawing to finished product. The low cost of travel and time will also be valuable in keeping overhead / indirect costs to a minimum and will keep the end cost of the product down. • ‘Made in Spain’ may not have the prestige of Italy, but it is still a desirable location of production. A product from Europe stands more strongly than the Far East which has become known for mass produced product. • As part of the European Union in the UK there is no Custom’s Duty to be paid on shipping, which would be added with production from a non EU country. • Lead times will be shorter from Spain as apposed to China and Brazil. Shipping is initially been done by the delivery service TNT by road, as this works out to be coast effective at €1.50 per pair. This is a cheaper process but much slower than having them flown over. If lead time becomes an issue, premium freight services such as by ship or plane will need to be considered. Not all styles will be able to be produced in the main factory as some styles particularly vulcanised units and trainers may require a factory who specialises in these styles.

8.1 - Shipping Shipping is one of the most vital areas of the supply chain and needs to be logistically planned so delays do not occur. It is also a high indirect cost which can add increasing cost to a product range. Shipping will occur between the factory and suppliers of materials, heels and soles etc, and will all need to be at the factory on time for the production schedule. Most factories will order materials on behalf of the designer for efficiency, as they know about quantity and when they will need the materials. It is up to the Samuel Shepherd brand however to provide the relevant information to the factory from liaising with the suppliers. It is important to note that any footwear shipped to the USA needs an Interim Footwear Invoice completing per style (see appendix 30). This provides customs in the United States the necessary information regarding the details and purpose of the footwear.

8.2 - Quality Control. Quality control or QC is an integral part of the production process and one that needs to be highly regarded at Samuel Shepherd as high quality is part of the company core values. Poor quality product is not good for any business and can create poor relationships with buyers, customers and the factory. A retailer has a legal requirement under the ‘Sales of Goods Act’ to provide product that is fit for sale, therefore they put a great deal of trust in brands to supply quality product. Samuel Shepherd in the initial stages of the business and particularly at times of limited financial funds will need to visit the factory personally and check the stock. Alternatively a quality controller can be employed to check stock on behalf of the company.

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 45


8.3 - Suppliers Leather.

Sicerp S.P.A, Stefania Conceria S.P.A, Antiba Conceria SPA.

Heels.

Del Brenta S.R.L

Shank/ insole.

Facotory Elda Alicante.

Sole.

S.I.L.L.E.A SRL

Embellishments.

E.M Company SR, Modimex Accessori

Zips.

YKK

Synthetics.

COMETEX, Galleotipiume.

Shoe box/ bag

Grafitex, Pro Box Embalagens.

Lace.

CKS - Carl Klostermann Sohne

Comfort.

Technogel Italia SRL

Last.

Spring Line Ltd Figure 3. 4 - Suppliers

A visit to the International leather fair, Lineapelle, in Bologna in October allowed the brand to make contact with several suppliers. Figure 3.4 represents these suppliers categorised into the products they manufacture. The majority of the suppliers are based in Italy which will benefit costs in shipping for the Samuel Shepherd brand with it’s distance to the factory in Spain. The last supplier Spring Line is based in Leicester in the UK as it allows accessibility when developing last shapes. The last is seen as one of the most important parts in the success of footwear styles. Visiting Spring Line will allow the designer to develop the last with the craftsman and keep an active role with production.

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 46


9.0 - Production Chain. Research trends and catwalk collection. Produce own concept for the season.

Visit Lineapelle in Bologna for leather / hardware research and sampling.

Develop a collection and refine to final styles to send to the factory.

Factory visits for sample development.

Confirmation samples received.

Product photo shoot for line sheets and look book.

Selling appointments with buyers and attend trade fairs Bread and Butter and MICAM.

Press samples received from factory. Shoes sent out for editorial pieces with various publications.

Wholesale orders processed with factory.

Wholesale orders sent direct to the client from the factory.

Stock processed by retailers and put on the sales floor / webspace.

Product sales.

Customer.

Review the response to the season from editorial, buyers, customers and sales.

T

Figure 3.5 - Production Chain

he production process of the Samuel Shepherd brand is shown in figure 3.5. This represents the cycle of the product from the preliminary research of the footwear range to when it reaches the customer. It is important that the production cycle works in this way or there will be potential problems as deadlines must be adhered to. With buying appointments and trade fairs to attend, the range must be complete and ready to show or potential orders will be lost. Most buyers have a budget for the season and if the brand misses the chance to show it may risk not being bought at all. The factory can produce samples of the range in around 2 weeks after submitting designs (see appendix 13). From there it takes a further 4-5 weeks for production orders. These lead times are reasonable and will allow the brand to work closer to each season, although a 1-2 week precautionary time period should be accounted for should any problems arise. In order to plan more effectively, a calender of the business year has been produced in figure 3.6, showing all the vital stages including trade shows, catwalks, when products arrive in store and when collections should be designed.

Trade.

AUG.

SEP.

Bread and Butter SS11

MICAM SS11

Design.

NOV.

Spring / Summer 2011 Shows. New York, London, Paris and Milan

Ready to wear shows.

Instore.

OCT. Lineapelle AW11/12

AW 10/11

DEC.

JAN. Bread and Butter AW11/12

FEB.

MAR.

MAY.

JUN.

JUL.

AUG.

Autumn Winter 2011/12 Shows. New York, London, Paris and Milan Cruise Spring 2011

Autumn Winter 2011/12 Shows.

APR.

MICAM AW11/12

Cruise Spring 2012 Shows.

SS11

AW 11/12

Spring Summer 2012

Figure 3.6 - Business Calender.

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 47


10.0 - Stockists.

Online.

www.netaporter.com www.mywardrobe.com www.asos.com www.zappos.com .

Edinburgh.

Jenners Department Store

.

York.

Chinelli - North Yorkshire

Leeds.

Chinelli - West Yorkshire

Manchester.

Cambridge

Bowns - Cambridgeshire

Birmingham Greater London.

Hub - Stoke Newington Diverse - Angel Spice - Angel / Primrose Hill Black Truffle - Broadway Market

.

Surrey.

Bernard of Esher.

T

Brighton.

Badger - East Sussex

Figure 3.7 - Potential UK Stockists

he Samuel Shepherd range will be stocked throughout the world, with contact made through international trade shows such as Bread and Butter in Berlin and MICAM in Madrid. The range will be sold on a wholesale basis and stocked in department stores, independent boutiques and online. Possible UK retailers are shown in figure 3.7. Researching the stockists of some of the competitor brands such as Paul Smith and bStore, highlighted retailers who had an image and product range that suited the identity of the Samuel Shepherd brand. Independent boutiques were of particular interest as this was highlighted as a potential shopping destination of the consumer in the customer focus group. Department stores such as Selfridges will allow the brand to potentially stock in three major UK cities. It is vital that the brand carefully considers it’s stockists and does the necessary research of the store, as a poorly represented retailer could potentially harm the Samuel Shepherd brand and the customers perception of it. The Internet, of course as highlighted throughout the report, is a key retail store now available 24hours a day and available worldwide. Netaporte, MyWardrobe and ASOS are some of the biggest stockists of online fashion and sell some of the competitors of the Samuel Shepherd brand. Zappos in America is one of the largest online footwear retailers in US which should be looked at as a potential stockist, especially when you consider the spending power of such a vast country. CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 48


11.0 - Conclusion. The research has informed the introduction of the Samuel Shepherd company and the concept development of the Samuel Shepherd brand. Findings both support and challenge the workings of the brands and shape it, allowing it to have a strong position in the market. Conclusive outcomes that support introduction of the brand include: • Research has informed that the premium footwear market is a fresh market with less fierce competition than the high street and luxury areas. It is a market that today has a prominent position with successful companies such as AllSaints, Whistles and Kurt Geiger showing growth even at times of economic recession. Camper and AllSaints not only communicate strong brand identity, but suggest an opening for brands at a mid market level which have their own identity, something usually only seen from luxury labels. Customers are clearly welcoming such brands as their sales represent this only too well. It was also found however, the importance of trend at the premium market with even brands like AllSaints showing hints of trends in their footwear. Top selling styles from some brands had trend influences, therefore showing how customers will buy into trends at this market level. It is however the way in which these trends are communicated from the brands perspective with Camper for example using the shearling trend in a very Camper style. • Craftsmanship and quality have been seen to be mixed across the premium market. Kurt Geiger, Hobbs and Russell and Bromley produce high quality ranges in Italy usually seen from the luxury market at competitive price points. Some companies however, like Reiss and Camilla Skovgaard produce in China with high price points, particularly Skovgaard. There are then brands like Camper where the overall quality of the product from the leather to the sole unit is beautifully crafted and considered and unlike many other companies. Even more surprising is the pricing at an average of under £100. There is then a great contrast in design standards and some quite unreasonable price points when compared to other companies such as Camper. How much does the customer actually care about quality? Camper, Hobbs and Russell and Bromley have a customer base who do admire these standard and Camper selling 3 million shoes a year is more proof of this. Camilla Skovgaard on the other hand shows evidence that even at the high end of the premium to luxury market, customer are still willing to spend over £250 in most cases on shoes produced in China. It seems then that brand and design will sometimes surpass the actual refined and respected values of the footwear, but brands that are true and authentic to craftsmanship and quality product are the ones who are only to proud too promote their product passion to the customer. • The market is now dominated by brands that offer the whole fashion outfit from clothing to footwear. Companies such as AllSaints and Hobbs sell the entire fashion outfit and the market seems to have less larger exclusively footwear brands. Kurt Geiger has shown that a specialist premium footwear retailer can dominate the market with profits as extensive as some of the larger brands. There is then opportunity for a new premium, exclusive footwear brands and has been seen from relatively new companies such as bStore and Camilla Skovgaard competing with the established brands. There is a level of trust with footwear specialists particularly if the spend is higher. Shoes are maybe seen as more investment pieces and customers would rather go to a specialist as opposed to someone that stocks the whole fashion outfit. • Customers attitudes to what they spend according to their wealth, attitudes to fashion and social group is mixed and actually most women are unaware of what they want from their footwear. Comfort and quality were seen as areas women wanted most from their footwear. Women are also prepared to spend above their financial means for the right product, therefore providing them with this product seems like a logical way to sell footwear. Samuel Shepherd’s focus group has similar attitudes, however as more head strong successful women earning a comfortable salary they are still highly considered in their footwear choices. You can not however deny the importance of ‘brand’ to the customer whether it is the ‘label loving’ customer or the more distinguishable shopper. Brand communication is key and even the most independent of customers will undoubtably have a preferred brand for their own personal reasons. • Research from the production side suggested that a Spanish factory will be sufficient in producing the Samuel Shepherd range. Although the cost price of producing the shoes with a reasonable added margin generated a higher price than the forecasted target price. Pricing is clearly a variant of the brand that must be worked on. • This knowledge of the market combined with the values of the Samuel Shepherd brand, concludes that the brand can operate effectively in the market. It is now understood from the research that the unique selling point of the brand is an ‘Exclusively British footwear brand with a clean contemporary edge, a touch of character, authenticity and a lateral way of thinking that forms and develops a distinguishable collection of trend influenced quality footwear’. The brand has seen opportunity in a customer who is her own unique person and doesn’t follow the masses. She is confident and knows what she wants and the finer details of a product are important to her. CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 49


12.0 - Evaluation. The brand has clear understanding of what it will provide to the market in terms of values and product. These have developed over the course of this research with a more confident understanding that these values will be accepted in today’s market. This is however, something that will be changing constantly and the brand must stay active in acting accordingly to change. It is felt the brands values and identity needs to develop over time with producing collections and really defining the image of the brand. The company must now develop the Spring Summer 2012 with further primary research on the two central themes and translate these into footwear ideas. Physical prototypes need to be produced in order to show three dimensional ideas and evaluate whether designs work effectively. More research into materials and hardware available from suppliers will further inform designs. More primary research within the central ‘lingerie’ theme needs to be found, as finding such examples is proving difficult. Options may include visiting retailers that sell lingerie and study the construction, materials and other properties. A need for an exclusively premium footwear brand has been highlighted although it needs to be recognised that the market is fiercely competitive. The brand will need to constantly reevaluate itself with a SWOT style analysis in order to retain and gain more market share. As a business, Samuel Shepherd must put a lot of attention on it’s finances and plan accordingly, particularly in uncertain times. It is realised that in order to trade, the business must break even and sometimes sacrifices may have to be made in the collection in order to strengthen the business; which may for example, include reducing development costs. Investors must be actively found in order to generate funds. Samuel Shepherd must apply for the fund available as highlighted in the research, such as the British Fashion Councils funding schemes. Quality is one of the core values of the business and something that was highlighted as something customer wanted in the consumer research. This is a values that it will be hard to achieve, as the nature of the production process and the materials coming from varies suppliers means quality control could be a job in itself. Samuel Shepherd will need to further source factories and as shown in the research, Spain, works as an option for producing the range. Other factories still need to be researched in order to achieve the highest production standards possible. The economy is still weak and the business must be aware of this. A good business mind must be developed alongside the design and production of the range. This may occur by being educated in business practice with evening courses or working with someone who has business knowledge and experience. Promotion is another vital area in communicating the brand. Without this, few people are going to know about product. There are much cheaper ways to promote a product as opposed to expensive advertising with the introduction of new technology such as social networks. The internet is of course a new and ever expanding retail space and one Samuel Shepherd must invest in and acquire necessary knowledge and support from industry professionals. The consumer market has been looked at in a broad and focused detail. It is recognised that with the market in general, attitudes change according to a number of factors like the condition of the economy. Therefore Samuel Shepherd must evaluate how people are shopping and what its core customers are spending their money on. This should be done by speaking to customers directly and receiving feedback from stockists. During the research for the concept development it was noticed that sales staff selling the products, are very knowledgeable as they have most contact with the customers. Producing and running a footwear business is clearly one that is highly demanding from all angles. As the sole person running the business at start up, there are many processes involved in the production chain and some that overlap, making planning essential. There is a need to constantly plan, evaluate, justify, promote and reevaluate the business in a fashion market which adjusts everyday. Failings that have occurred from the proposal outlined in the research plan include presenting the brand concept to leading industry figures. Although a number of industry contacts did reply and feature in the report, some failed to respond.

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 50


1.

KURT GEIGER COMPETITOR ANALYSIS 1

Further competitor analysis of the Kurt Geiger brand using information from the competitor shop completed on the 28/10/10.

S

1.

Wentworth £190 110mm heel

2. 3.

Strasbourg £280 90mm heel Corso £290 120mm heel

Kurt Geiger is Britain’s leading premium footwear brands with an extensive range of footwear styles of varying price points.

A 14 strong design team designs the product range of men’s and women’s styles.

Styles vary from towering 140mm heels to casual trainers all heavily influenced by current trends.

The Kurt Geiger stores are lavish and an extension of the Kurt Geiger experience the customer receives from product, store and customer service.

Kurt Geiger is responsible for buying the footwear ranges for Britain’s leading department stores such as Harrods and Selfridges.

Can have product from the design stage to in store in as little as 6 weeks.

Expanding into accessory ranges including sunglasses, tights and hand bags.

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2.

ALLSAINTS

COMPETITOR ANALYSIS 2

Further competitor analysis of the All Saints brand using information from the competitor shop completed on the 28/10/10.

S

1. 3. Shearling Military £185

Ori Boot 80mm £185

Anat 120mm £195

2.

There are around 50 footwear styles in a range that consists of boots, mid heels, high heels, flats and wellies.

All Saints produces men’s, women’s and children’s collections of clothing, accessories and jewellery.

Other product lines include home, vintage and gifts.

Footwear is produced in Portugal and Brazil.

AllSaints has a rustic vintage image with some interesting tailored pieces. The colour palette is muted dark tones of blacks, greys and browns. Footwear features work look leathers and a heavy use of hardware pieces.

Allsaints generated popularity with label hungry customers with a high demand for Allsaints branded product, particularly an Allsaints belt that was a must have product back 2007.

The company recently expanded into America, a move that some thought was risky. However they are proving popular in the US and plan to open more stores.

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 52


3.

CAMPER COMPETITOR ANALYSIS 3

Further competitor analysis of the Camper brand using information from the competitor shop completed on the 28/10/10.

S

1.

Alto 45mm £95

2.

3.

Spiral £135

Mil £160

There are 156 styles in the women’s range at Camper of varies styles from boots, flats, mid heels, sandals, slippers and wellies.

At the lower end of the premium footwear market, Camper’s product offering is highly specialised towards quality footwear with innovative technology.

Camper stores are part of the identity of the brand as they select small quirky spaces that they utilise effectively, cleverly merchandising the product as the central feature of the store.

Camper provides a 2 year manufactures warranty with all footwear sold. This quality is a great reassurance to the customer the quality of the shoes they are buying.

The customer base is broad as they offer men’s, women’s and children’s ranges.

There are few brands like Camper with such an extensive product range and high level of craftsmanship unseen even from brands with much higher price points.

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4.

PAUL SMITH COMPETITOR ANALYSIS 4

Further competitor analysis of the Paul Smith brand using information from the competitor shop completed on the 28/10/10.

1.

Marcello £300

3. S

2.

Mario Boot £349

Corso £290

68 footwear styles under the Paul Smith, Black Label and Paul by Paul Smith lines.

The iconic ‘classic with a twist’ aesthetic is key to the success of the Paul Smith brand. The clothing and footwear is beautifully made, with subtle hints of design detail such as printed linings.

Paul Smith is primarily a luxury brand with a high price point, although the footwear is reasonably priced especially with the diffusions like Paul by Paul Smith starting at £90 for a trainer.

Masculine looks, like Brogues and Loafers sell well for the brand as shown above.

The finish and standard of the footwear is high, and typically Italian with leather linings, uppers and soles.

Product are highly appreciated for their qualities with descriptions online, for example ‘100% Buffalino leather’.

Paul Smith shares company values with companies such as Margaret Howell and Whistles where the high finish and quality of their products are part of their brand values.

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 54


5.

PEDRO GARCIA COMPETITOR ANALYSIS 5

Further competitor analysis of the Pedro Garcia brand using information from the competitor shop completed on the 28/10/10.

1.

Cher 30mm £325

Mayra 75mm £445

Paola 120mm £245

2.

Chenoa 120mm £245

3.

Leather Chlesea 70mm £169

89 people take part in the process of making a Pedro Garcia shoe, from design to finish. The craftsmanship and heritage of the brand is its main USP.

1,000 retail stockists around the world including Netaporter and Yoox online.

Family owned business, with the third generation of the family at the helm. Established in 1923.

Designs are minimal with great detail in the soles, heels and other physical features of the shoe.

All products are made in Spain, something the company is very proud of.

The Paola style shown above with its moulded cork foot bed sole is a top selling look for the company and continues to feature every season.

The customer is primarily a mature women of mid 30’s to late 40’s. However the popular Paola style had a strong following from a younger client.

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 55


REISS

6.

COMPETITOR ANALYSIS 6

Further competitor analysis of the Camper brand using information from the competitor shop completed on the 28/10/10.

S

1. 3. Spritz 11cm £149

Carlotta 10cm £149

2.

Scarlett 11.5cm £159

35 styles in the AW10 collection consisting of 13 boots, 10 flats, 6 high heels and 6 mid heels.

Top selling styles according to the Covent Garden store are shown above.

All footwear is sourced in China. The quality of the shoes is not particularly high for the price point, particularly when you consider that you can purchase Italian made shoes at this price in Hobbs and Russell & Bromley.

In store trends for the season inlcude party time, camel hues, wild things and modern minimalism.

Stores in the UK, Ireland, Scotland Wales, Bahrain, China, Denmark, Qatar, Kuwait, Russian, UAE and the USA.

Reiss’s design aesthetic is clean formal wear with a hint of trend. However the brand struggles to have much of a striking identity like Whistles in the premium fashion market.

Reiss operates its own stores and sold as a concession in department stores such as Selfridges.

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7.

SEE BY Chloé COMPETITOR ANALYSIS 7

Further competitor analysis of the See by Chloé brand using information from the competitor shop completed on the 28/10/10. TOP SELLER

Studded Wedge £230

See by Chloé is the diffusion line of the mainline Chloé collection. Started in 2001 the look is a younger version of the French Fashion House.

The style is on trend with a feminine edge and some French panache.

The collection includes clothes, bags and footwear.

See by Chloé is stocked at ASOS, MyWardrobe, Netaporter, Harrods and Selfridges. The footwear collection is wholesaled in the footwear boutique Spice in Angel and Primrose Hill (see top seller above).

The footwear styles are highly wearable with no extreme heels. Wedges allow height and wearablilty. Earthy muted tones keep the collection interesting as apposed to a standard black / brown colour palette.

See by Chloé has a younger core customer as it is more affordable than the mainline Chloé range. Late 20’s to mid thirties affluent B - middle class to A - upper middle class social group.

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 57


HOBBS

8.

COMPETITOR ANALYSIS 8

Further competitor analysis of the Hobbs brand using information from the competitor shop completed on the 28/10/10.

S

Jamie Long Boot £199

1. 3. Rivoli £135

2. Whitestone £139

Top selling styles are shown above according to the sales of the Covent Garden store.

Hobbs has a conservative refined style aimed at a mature customer. They say they have the benefit of offering the entire outfit to their customer.

The level of customer service in store is high and all part of the Hobbs experience. The staff know their product.

Hobbs own a footwear factory in Italy that produces the entire range. The range is vast, features footwear for their mainline collection and their more youthful NW3 range.

Typical qualities of Italian produced shoes at this price point include leather uppers, linings and soles.

The range is competitively priced, especially when compared to other Italian produced footwear brands. Their long boot as shown above is considerably cheaper than a Russell & Bromley example by nearly £100.

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CAMILLA SKOVGAARD

9.

COMPETITOR ANALYSIS 9

Further competitor analysis of the Camilla Skovgaard brand using information from the competitor shop completed on the 28/10/10. Sandal £285 11.5cm heel.

Pony skin wedge £428

Camilla Skovgaard is a graduate of Cordwainers and the RCA. In the last few years her footwear line has become very successful and in her words “Success comes down to two good sales agents and a favourable price point compared to the competition” quote from an interview with Camilla Skovgaard on the ‘Business of Fashion’ (Amed, 2008).

Even during times of recession her range is still selling more than the previous seasons. Skovgaard says that during recession “people want some thing that they consider an investment - not too classic and too trendy” (Amed, 2008).

Her collection is unusually for the luxury market produced in China. The footwear features Italian materials that are shipped to China for production.

Skovgaard goes out to China to check the quality of the production each season and checks “as many boxes as possible” (Amed, 2008).

Skovgaard’s advice to emerging talent “Offer different price points in your collection, and make sure it is well-balanced and merchandised by providing combinations of units and wearability (day/going out).” (Amed, 2008).

Skovgaard’s price point is competitive within the market. Producing in China is likely to keep her costs down hence the price point. This allows her to be stocked in more mid market retailer such as Whistles and also high end stores such as netaporter.

The bStore has a minimalist feel in store with footwear visually displayed on shelf units.

The majority of the footwear feature leather uppers, soles and linings. CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 59


b STORE

10.

COMPETITOR ANALYSIS 10

Further competitor analysis of the b Store brand using information from the competitor shop completed on the 28/10/10.

Edie £195

Edie Loafer £195

Salvatore £255

Own factory based in Portugal that produces footwear for Opening Ceremony also.

Conceptual store based on London’s Conduit Street. The store hosts in house exhibitions for artists and designers.

The range includes women’s and men’s styles of around 16 pieces a season.

The brand has it’s own online store, the bStore in London and also wholesales to retailers such as ASOS.

Clothing is also part of the bStore product range.

The brand has a youthful, edgy, contemporary look that is a mix of current trend and own design aesthetic.

The bStore has a minimalist feel in store with footwear visually displayed on shelf units.

The majority of the footwear feature leather uppers, soles and linings.

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 60


OPENING CEREMONY

11.

COMPETITOR ANALYSIS 11

Further competitor analysis of the Opening Ceremony brand using information from the competitor shop completed on the 28/10/10.

Simple Pump £320

Desert Boot £195

Ankle Boot Clog £320

Opening Ceremony is a conceptual company that stocks brands such as Acne, Alexander Wang and Peter Jensen as well as its own line.

The product range includes footwear, clothing and accessories for men and women.

Footwear is produced in Portugal and features leather uppers, soles and linings.

The brand image is conceptual, taking current trends such as the clog (see above) and adding the Opening Ceremony personality to it.

The brand popular with creative people and the companies ethos is all about unique design, rather than mainstream brands.

The company has own stores in New York, Tokyo and Los Angeles.

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 61


12.

RUSSELL & BROMLEY COMPETITOR ANALYSIS 12

Further competitor analysis of the Russell & Bromley brand using information from the competitor shop completed on the 28/10/10.

Clasp Trim £165

S

Riding Boot £295

Monk Buckle £145

Stuart Weitzman £295

Russell & Bromley has a very established past in the footwear market and offers a traditional style of footwear retailing.

Stores are very classic if not a bit dated. Until recently the brand primarily had a maturer customer, however with past and present trend of traditional style footwear like brogues and tassel loafers, Russell & Bromley has seen a younger cliental.

Amongst it’s own line of footwear it stocks Stuart Weitzman and other designer brands in selected stores.

Footwear is produced in Spain and Italy with typical features such as leather linings, soles and uppers.

A new store in a prime location amongst brands such as Office and Schuh has recently opened on Oxford Street.

The company has formal British style, the majority of the product is either black or brown and there is little colour if any throughout the range.

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 62


13.

Hi Sam, Hope you are well. Please find some information below. We produce in Spain in Elda Alicante. A kid leather court shoe is around €40 Euros to produce. We transport using TNT by road the cheapest way this usually works out to be £1.50 per pair. You don't pay VAT on stock from Europe so this doesn't need to be added on to the total costs. Allow around €10 for your trims, sole etc and again approx €5 for materials. Remember these are all approximate prices as the factory will quote us a price according to the style / design etc. With regards to margins this again greatly varies between stores. A 145% margin from cost to RRP price is reasonable. From submitting the designs to production around 4-5 weeks. However because wholesale we produce samples first, these take around 2 weeks to produce, this enables us to check the designs and quality before production, our samples are delivered early in the season as we attend Micam to sell the collection. Best Wishes, Caroline Allnatt Laura J London Ltd 114 Islington High Street London N1 8EG (t) 020 7226 4005 (e) caroline@laurajlondon.com

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 63


14. S A M U E L

S H E P H E R D Thank you for taking the time to fill out this questionnaire. Your input is very much appreciated. Please be aware all answers are confidential and will only be used by Samuel Shepherd.

Name: Nina Hjorth Occupation: Kurt Geiger Designer - Nicole Fahri and Kurt Geiger What future footwear trends for SS11 do you see coming through? SS11 trends: Espadrilles, bright colours (pink, orange, cobbalt, purple), white red. 70s shapes and Japanese wedges, wedges in general. Flowers on shoes. Key shoes: Marc Jacobs, Gucci, Prada, LV. I also really liked Calvin Klein, Acne and Celine. What is the maximum heel height you would consider ‘wearable’ and how important is heel height to the customer? Max heel I would consider wearing 12.5cm. Max heel height I would consider comfortable 10cm. This is height of last I am talking about so heel might be higher depending on platform etc. What do you think makes a successful footwear range? Successful range: Understanding customer is key. But really depends on size of collection. On Geiger its diversity to an extend but still keeping Geiger signature style. The collection must sit nicely together. In your experience, what brands/ styles sell well and why? Prada, Louboutin, Chanel sell well because of strong brand identity. Otherwise a product will sell well if it the right trend at the right price in the right location. What do you think is missing in the footwear market (areas of opportunity)? Areas of opportunity: girls 8-12 years fashion forward footwear. Generally I believe a lot of opportunity in nice products.

Nina Hjorth Ladies Designer Kurt Geiger & Nicole Farhi Kurt Geiger Limited 07791347644

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 64


15.

Kurt Geiger - Carvella

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16.

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17.

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18.

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19.

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20. FOCUS GROUP S A M U E L

S H E P H E R D Thank you for taking the time to fill out this questionnaire. Your input is very much appreciated. Please be aware all answers are confidential and will only be used by Samuel Shepherd.

Age group: 15 - 24

25 - 34

35-44

44 - 60

7 - 15K

15 - 25K

25 - 50K

60+

Income level: 7K

50 - 100K

100K +

In which area do you live? South East Where do you buy your footwear? Russell & Bromley, Georgina Goodman, Office, Boutique-type shops in local towns Are you driven by current fashion trends? To a certain extent, but I like classic styles that will last me several seasons as I like to buy quality shoes that last. If I was going to buy a very “in” shoe, I’d probably just get it from New Look or Top Shop and then recycle it via a charity shop when I was fed up of it What is the maximum amount you would spend on a pair of shoes? £300, possibly more for boots What is your favourite shoe brand/designer? I love the designs at the top end ie Georgina Goodman and Chloe, but have never bought them. Like Patrick Cox too. The brand I own the most shoes from is Russell & Bromley (like their Stuart Weitzman collection) What would you like to see from a new shoe brand entering the market? Quality Tell me about the shoes you are wearing today, why did you buy them? Georgina Goodman Red leather, with an unusual round wooden black and brown stripey heel. Bow tie at the front made from the type of flat lace you get in trainers. Entirely hand made and VERY comfortable! Bought them from vivaladiva.com years ago What is your opinion of Kurt Geiger? Often go in to have a look but have never bought anything. How would you describe your style? Depends where I am going, but generally to impress and express!

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21. FOCUS GROUP S A M U E L

S H E P H E R D Thank you for taking the time to fill out this questionnaire. Your input is very much appreciated. Please be aware all answers are confidential and will only be used by Samuel Shepherd.

Age group: 15 - 24

25 - 34

35-44

44 - 60

7 - 15K

15 - 25K

25 - 50K

60+

Income level: 7K

50 - 100K

100K + In which area do you live? Maida Vale Where do you buy your footwear? Selfridges, Harvey Nics, LK bennett, while travelling Are you driven by current fashion trends? Not really in shoewear, like more elegant classic shoes that are more expensive. If I want trendy shoes I buy them in Zara and then throw them out 4 months later What is the maximum amount you would spend on a pair of shoes? £300 What is your favourite shoe brand/designer? Dream - Manolo, Jimmy Choo Reality - LK Bennett, Pretty Ballerinas What would you like to see from a new shoe brand entering the market? Nice heels that I could wear to work that aren’t 8 inches high Tell me about the shoes you are wearing today, why did you buy them? Black patent leather from Jaeger, 3 inch heel. Classic and nice and not too high What is your opinion of Kurt Geiger? I usually find them too trendy to wear in the real world. A How would you describe your style? Do you dress to...... express yourself, for comfort, to impress etc? Elegant work attire, need to impress but within the realms of practical.

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22. FOCUS GROUP S A M U E L

S H E P H E R D Thank you for taking the time to fill out this questionnaire. Your input is very much appreciated. Please be aware all answers are confidential and will only be used by Samuel Shepherd.

Age group: 15 - 24

25 - 34

35-44

44 - 60

7 - 15K

15 - 25K

25 - 50K

60+

Income level: 7K

50 - 100K

100K + In which area do you live? Surrey Where do you buy your footwear? Mainly France Are you driven by current fashion trends? No What is the maximum amount you would spend on a pair of shoes? No maximum amount, if right design, good quality ... nothing is stopping me ! What is your favourite shoe brand/designer? Italian design in general What would you like to see from a new shoe brand entering the market? Some colors ... too many black and brown ! Tell me about the shoes you are wearing today, why did you buy them? Black boots with toe and top of the boot in crocodile... stunning. Shop find in South of France which design the mould and you choose the fabric, different leather, color.... your imagination has no limit ! What is your opinion of Kurt Geiger? Not keen to bulky How would you describe your style? Do you dress to...... express yourself, for comfort, to impress etc? Wearing mainly black most of the time but accessorised it with bag and shoes (color)

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23. FOCUS GROUP S A M U E L

S H E P H E R D Thank you for taking the time to fill out this questionnaire. Your input is very much appreciated. Please be aware all answers are confidential and will only be used by Samuel Shepherd.

Age group: 15 - 24

25 - 34

35-44

44 - 60

7 - 15K

15 - 25K

25 - 50K

60+

Income level: 7K

100K + In which area do you live? UAE Where do you buy your footwear? London Are you driven by current fashion trends? Somewhat. What is the maximum amount you would spend on a pair of shoes? Just spent £350 on prada shoes but normally only spend £50-£75 What is your favourite shoe brand/designer? Various What would you like to see from a new shoe brand entering the market? Affordable style but not too cheap, good quality leather, classic designs Tell me about the shoes you are wearing today, why did you buy them? Prada, needed decent shoes for an event What is your opinion of Kurt Geiger? Too fashion victim, too uncomfortable How would you describe your style? Stylish but not latest fashion, relatively simple

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50 - 100K


24. S A M U E L

S H E P H E R D Thank you for taking the time to fill out this questionnaire. Your input is very much appreciated. Please be aware all answers are confidential and will only be used by Samuel Shepherd.

Age group: 15 - 24

25 - 34

35-44

44 - 60

7 - 15K

15 - 25K

25 - 50K

60+

Income level: 7K

50 - 100K

100K + In which area do you live? West London Where do you buy your footwear? Office/Top Shop/Zara/Aldo/ASOS Are you driven by current fashion trends / how would you describe your style? I would describe my day to day style as quite casual, I do take note of fashion trends, but tend to work within my own style. However with evening wear I am a lot more fashion conscious, I like to mix on trend with classic wear. What is the maximum amount you would spend on a pair of shoes? At the moment with my salary ÂŁ150 if I really loved them. What is your favourite shoe brand/designer? I don't have a favourite... What would you like to see from a new shoe brand entering the market? Reasonable heel heights that are gorgeous and something you can walk in! Shoes which accommodate narrow feet and that are built with fashion and comfort in mind. I would like to see something innovative which is a contemporary mix of on trend fashion and classic wear. Tell me about the shoes you are wearing today, why did you buy them? I am wearing converses brought from Office. I brought them because they are comfortable, easy to wear and a bit quirky (bright blue), I think they encompass my style and personality atm. What is your opinion of Kurt Geiger? I do like KG, however I do feel some of the heel heights are ridiculous and that does put me off purchasing shoes from there. I have also tried on several pairs and wasn't too impressed with the work man ship... However they do have gorgeous shoes, I especially love their eclectic mix of court shoes and am hoping to find a pair I can treasure soon!

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25.

Thank you for taking the time to fill out this questionnaire. Your input is very much appreciated. Please be aware all answers are confidential and will only be used by Samuel Shepherd.

Age group: 15 - 24

25 - 34

35-44

44 - 60

7 - 15K

15 - 25K

25 - 50K

60+

Income level: 7K

50 - 100K

100K + In which area do you live? Essex Where do you buy your footwear? Asos, Topshop, Marks and Spencer, New Look, H&M, Nine West Are you driven by current fashion trends / how would you describe your style? I embrace trends but don’t follow them religiously; I wear what looks good for my shape. I interpret the latest trend to what is comfortable to me. What is the maximum amount you would spend on a pair of shoes? £150 for a special occasion What is your favourite shoe brand/designer? KG do great shoes, but Manolo Blahnik is amazing...in the real world though, I buy most of my shoes in New Look. There is nothing quite inbetween Kurt Geiger and high end luxury What would you like to see from a new shoe brand entering the market? A brand that like feet!!! Beautiful shoes at a reasonable price that don’t sripple your feet. Tell me about the shoes you are wearing today, why did you buy them? New look, bloack, low heel, with a lce up strap across the top. I bought them for work as they aren’t too high and are smart with a strap across so I am not fighting to keep them on my feet. What is your opinion of Kurt Geiger? Gorgeous shoes with original Ideas, yet classic.

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26.

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27.

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28.

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29.

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30.

INTERIM FOOTWEAR INVOICE

( ( (

) Look-See/Confirmation ) Salesman Sample/Promo ) MASTER

FACTORY 1. Style name: 2. Style number: 3. Identify which of the following materials make up the greatest portion of the external surface area of the upper (accessories, reinforcements, excluded) a. leather ________% b. rubber and/or plastics ________% c. textile materials ________% d. other materials ________% 4. identify which of the following materials make up the greatest portion of the external surface area of the sole (accessories, reinforcements, spikes, etc. excluded): a. leather or composition leather ________% b. rubber and/or plastics ________% c. other materials ________% 5. Is the footwear designed for sports activity and does it have spikes, cleats, etc., or provision for the attachment of such. YES_______ NO_______ 6. Is the footwear one of the following types? a. skating boots, wrestling boots, boxing boots or cycling shoes ________ b. ski boots ________ c. cross-country ski boots ________ d. tennis shoes, basketball, gym shoes, training shoes and the like ________ e. none of the above ________ 7. Is the footwear exclusively for men youth or boys? YES_______ NO_______ 8. Does the footwear have a protective metal toe cap? YES_______ NO_______ 9. What is the height of the upper? a. covers the knee or higher ________ b. covers the ankle but not the knee ________ c. does not cover the ankle ________ UPPERS AND SOLES ARE RUBBER AND/OR PLASTICS 10. Is the footwear waterproof and assembled by means other than stitching, nailing, riveting, screwing, plugging or similar processes? YES_______ NO_______ If yes, complete questions 11-15; if no, complete questions 13-18) 11. Are the external surface areas of the upper and sole (accessories, reinforcements, etc,. included) over 90% PVC? YES_______ NO_______ 12. Is the footwear designed for use without closures? YES_______ NO_______ 13. Is the external surface area of the upper (accessories, reinforcements, reinforcements etc., included) over 90% rubber and/or plastics? YES_______ NO_______ 14. Is the footwear protective in nature (i.e. designed to be worn over or in lieu of other footwear as a protection against water, oil, grease, chemicals, or cold or inclement weather)? YES_______ NO_______ 15. Does the footwear have a foxing or foxing-like band applied or molded at the sole and overlapping the upper? YES_______ NO_______ 16. If the answer to 15 is yes, is the foxing or foxing-like band wholly or almost wholly of rubber or plastics? YES_______ NO_______

17. Which of the following characteristics does the footwear possess? a. zoris _______ b. made on a base platform of wood _______ c. made on a base platform of cork _______ d. open toes or open heels _______ e. exclusively adhesive construction _______ f. slip-on type _______ g. none of the above _______ 18. If the answer to 14 is yes, are the uppers entirely of non-moulded construction from a point 3cm above the top of the outer sole? YES_______

NO_______

UPPERS ARE TEXTILE MATERIALS: SOLES ARE LEATHER COMPOSITION LEATHER, RUBBER OR PLASTICS 19. Is the external surface area of the upper more than 50% leather (leather accessories/reinforcements, etc. included)? YES_______ NO_______ If yes, stop; if no, complete questions 14,15,16,17 and 20. 20. Which of the following characteristics does the footwear possess? a. less than 10% by weight of rubber and plastics or not over 50% by weight of rubber or plastics _______ b. upper of vegetable fibers (cotton, flax, etc.) _______ c. soles which overlap the upper except at the toe or heel _______ d. none of the above _______ UPPERS ARE LEATHER: SOLES ARE LEATHER COMPOSITION LEATHER, RUBBER AND PLASTICS 21. Which of the following characteristics does the footwear possess? a. weit construction _______ b. turn or turned construction _______ c. uppers consisting of leather straps across the instep and around the big toe _______ d. made on a base/platform of wood _______ e. none of the above _______ OTHER 22. Which of the following characteristics does the footwear possess? a. uppers of leather or composition leather _______ b. uppers of textile material _______ c. uppers and soles of wool felt _______ d. disposable footwear _______ e. none of the above _______

________________________________________________________ Signature Date

(Note: Use this for entries clearing U.S. Customs beginning January 1, 1989 instead of U.S. Customs form 5523)

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31.   KG  Group  Holdings  Limited     Annual  Results  for  the  year  ended  30  January  2010       Fifth  successive  year  of  record  results  underlines  Kurt  Geiger’s  position  as  a   British  retail  success  story  and  highlights  that  demand  for  designer  shoes  is  at  a   record  high      

Fifth  year  of  successive  growth:    

• • • •

Turnover  increased  17%  to  £162  million  (2009:  £139  million)   EBITDA  up  21.2%  to  £14.7  million  (2009:  £12.1  million)   Like-­‐for-­‐like  sales  performance  up  8%  

Designer  shoe  sales  within  department  store  partners  Harrods,  Selfridges  and  Liberty  at   a  record  high  

Internet  sales  trebled  during  the  year  and  now  account  for  15%  of  own  brand  sales   −

Increasing  regional  footprint  with  50%  of  internet  sales  now  from  outside   London  

Increased  investment  spend  to  £12  million  during  the  year  across  new  store  openings,   strengthened  design  team,  marketing  and  PR   o

   

Creation  of  an  additional  275  new  jobs  across  the  group    

Demand  for  designer  shoes  growing  by  the  minute:*    

• • • •

Kurt  Geiger  currently  selling  10  pairs  of  shoes  every  minute  

Kurt  Geiger  today  is  the  number  one  high-­‐end  shoe  retailer  in  the  UK  and  Europe  

Customers  span  every  sector  of  society  with  spend  not  correlating  with  affordability   Over  10%  of  shoes  sold  on  the  internet  are  purchased  in  the  middle  of  the  night;   increasing  trend  towards  late  late  night  shopping    

London  continues  to  lead  the  way  in  designer  shoe  sales  commanding  an  average  spend   of  £230  per  shoe  compared  with  £180  outside  London  

Ongoing  demand  for  high  heels  with  each  additional  centimetre  in  heels  costing  20%   more   −

• • •

Clogs  and  shearling  currently  the  2010  top  sellers  

The  average  woman  owns  between  30  –  50  pairs  of  shoes  

Increase  in  demand  for  men’s  shoes  and  trend  towards  colour,  suede  and  patent   −

 

Record  demand  in  2009  for  120mm  platforms  

56%  of  men’s  shoes  purchased  by  women  

*Source  for  statistics:  Kurt  Geiger  customer  research  

   

1

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 86

 


Significant  operational  progress  during  the  year:     •

• • •

 

12  stand  alone  Kurt  Geiger  stores  opened  in  the  year  expanding  the  Kurt  Geiger  store   footprint  by  30  over  the  last  28  months  and  bringing  the  total  number  of  Kurt  Geiger   stores  to  63  worldwide  

Opened  a  further  49  concessions  across  the  UK  and  Ireland  including  the  newly  launched   shoe  boudoir  concept  in  the  30-­‐strong  Debenhams  store  group  

Ongoing  international  expansion  with  opening  of  Middle  East  flagship  store  in  Dubai  

Mall  –  Kurt  Geiger’s  4th  largest  store  globally  –  leading  to  further  opportunities  in  the  

region  

Signed  and  commenced  long-­‐term  distribution  agreement  with  Nine  West  

Opened  in  Brown  Thomas,  Ireland  operating  a  designer  shoe  business  for  the  store   Doubled  size  of  design  team  to  18    

Positive  outlook  for  designer  shoes  and  clear  Kurt  Geiger  strategy  for  growth:    

• •

UK  footwear  sales  forecast  to  grow  8.7%  in  the  premium  market*  

Continued  expansion  of  Kurt  Geiger  domestically  and  internationally  with  the  potential   to  open  another  40  stores  in  the  UK  over  the  next  five  years  

Kurt  Geiger  in  discussions  to  expand  international  footprint  with  a  foothold  in  every   major  fashion  market  globally  –  Kurt  Geiger  products  have  global  appeal   Current  trading  continuing  at  record  levels   −

EBITDA  and  like  for  like  sales  in  the  first  six  months  of  2010  are  growing  ahead   of  last  year    

Opened  new  flagship  concept  store  in  Covent  Garden  with  a  further  4  stores  due  to  open   before  Christmas  (One  New  Change  in  City  of  London,  Notting  Hill,  Manchester  and   Newcastle)  

  *Source:  Verdict  Report:  UK  Retail  Futures  2011  Clothing  &  Footwear       Neil  Clifford,  Chief  Executive  of  Kurt  Geiger,  said:     “These   financial   results   demonstrate   the   continued   success   of   our   proven   model   for   department   store  shoe  retailing  on  an  international  level  as  well  as  our  strategy  to  invest  and  expand  in  our  own   brand   stores.   In   the   face   of   a   challenging   economic   backdrop   Kurt   Geiger   has   performed   very   strongly  and  in  2010  we  have  expanded  our  headcount  and  rolled  out  new  stores  across  the  UK  with   more  in  the  pipeline  for  the  second  half  of  2010.”    

Rebecca  Farrar-­Hockley,  Buying  &  Creative  Director  of  Kurt  Geiger,  said:     “There  is  no  doubt  that  statement  shoes  are  the  latest  addiction.    Today’s  shoes  transform  how  you   look   and   feel   with   high   heels   giving   women   an   instant   lift.   The   best   shoe   retailers   are   to   women   today   what   sweet   shops   have   always   been   to   children.   Celebrity   culture   is   playing   its   part   and   a   popular  personality  wearing  the  best  statement  shoe  in  the  media  translates  into  immediate  sales.         With  shoes  being  an  integral  part  of  fashion  trends  we  can  only  see  the  demand  for  well  designed   footwear  continuing  to  increase.    With  an  18  strong  original  design  team  we  are  ideally  placed  to   continue  producing  the  latest  and  most  up-­to-­date  shoes.”   2

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 87


32.

AUG.

Macro Market research Consumer research Competitor research Product positioning Research manufacturers Market positioning Critical paths Concept research / board Trend research Brand values Source materials / hardware Design Development Range Plan Costing and Price points Shipping Pattern cutting Pattern testing and alterations Prototypes Heel prototypes Clicking and closing Lasting and marking Design sheets Spec sheets Design packaging and source Photoshoot Line sheets Evaluate Present / Hand in

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 88

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13.0 - Bibliography. Arnold, Chris (2009) Ethical Marketing and the new consumer: John Wiley & Sons Ltd Beazley, M (2006) Seduction a Celebration of Sensual Style : Octopus Delacour, J (1977) The Pheasants of the World: Spur Publications Dominy, K (2010) Contemporary Lingerie Design: Laurence King Publishing Elphick, J (2004) Birds The Art of Ornithology: Scriptum Editions Eyton, T (1867) Osteologia Avium: Wellington Ferguson, J (1983) The Shell Guide to Bird of Britain & Ireland: Michael Joseph Ltd Frith, C (2010) Birds of Paradise: nature, art and history: Malanda Made, S (2002) Pheasants, Patidges and Grouse a guide: London, Christopher Helm. Meadows, T (2009) How to set up and run a fashion label: Laurence King Publishing Neret, G (2003) 1000 Dessous A History of Lingerie: Taschen Oldham, T (2007) Charley Harper: An Illustrated Life: Ammo Books Solomon, M and Rabolt, N (2004) Consumer Behavior in Fashion: Pearson Education Witherby, H (1943) Handbook of British Birds: London, Witherby Mintel, (2010) Footwear Report August 2010 Mintel, (2010) Designer Upmarket Clothing March 2010 Mintel, (2010) Retail Review UK June 2010 Mintel (2009) Ethical Clothing February 2009 Verdict, (2010) How Britain Shops Footwear 2010 Verdict, (2010) Fashion Multiple Retailers 2010 Verdict, (2010) UK FootwearRetailers 2010 Verdict, (2009) UK Town Centre Retailing 2009 Mintel, (2008) Luxury Goods Retailing August 2008 Verdict, (2008) UK Womenswear Retailers 2008 http://www.fleetilya.com/ http://www.petite-coquette.co.uk/p3 http://www.artandcommerce.com http://allycapellino.co.uk/ http://www.allsaints.com http://bernardesheronline.com/ http://www.businessoffashion.com http://www.bordelle.co.uk/ http://www.businessweek.com/magazine/content/05_16/b3929084_mz054.htm http://www.bstore.com http://www.britishfashioncouncil.com/ http://www.chloe.com http://www.cosstores.com http://www.camper.com http://www.camillaskovgaard.com http://www.coco-de-mer.com/ http://www.drapersonline.com/news/world-first-helping-you-to-take-control-of-your-budget/5017637.article http://www.facebook.com/pages/KG-by-Kurt-Geiger/127185023091 http://www.foundassociates.com/html/kurt_geiger.php http://hummingbirdbakery.com/ http://www.hobbs.com http://www.jigsaw-online.com/ http://www.kutgeiger.com http://www.liberty.co.uk/ http://www.margarethowell.co.uk/ http://www.paulsmith.com http://www.pedrogarcia.com http://www.openingceremony.com http://www.russellandbromley.co.uk http://www.style.com/ http://showstudio.com/ http://starbucks.co.uk/en-GB/

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 89


http://www.selfridges.com/ http://www.trunkarchive.com http://www.waynetippetts.com http://www.whistles.co.uk/ http://thewomensroom.typepad.com/ http://www.wgsn.com/members/trendsinfo/features/ti0904241_1 www.thewindowdisplayblog.com Dacre, K 7th September 2010 ‘Whistles of Delight all around’: Evening Standard Natural History Museum at Tring - Ornithology Library and Museum Natural History Museum London Lineapelle October 2010

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S A M U E L

S H E P H E R D Thank you for taking the time to fill out this questionnaire. Your input is very much appreciated. Please be aware all answers are confidential and will only be used by Samuel Shepherd.

Age group: 15 - 24

25 - 34

35-44

44 - 60

7 - 15K

15 - 25K

25 - 50K

60+

Income level: 7K

50 - 100K

100K + In which area do you live? Cambridgeshire Where do you buy your footwear? H&M, Department stores, charity shops Are you driven by current fashion trends / how would you describe your style? My style is quite simple. Denim, t-shirts, and I love knee-length dresses and skirts. What is the maximum amount you would spend on a pair of shoes? ÂŁ60 What is your favourite shoe brand/designer? Clarks What would you like to see from a new shoe brand entering the market? Good quality and comfort; I would like to see more low heels as I am tall as it is and quite clumsy on high heels Tell me about the shoes you are wearing today, why did you buy them? Today I wore fake leather trainers from Shoe Zone. I bought them when I urgently needed casual shoes and had very little money to spend. What is your opinion of Kurt Geiger? I do not know the brand well. Sounds too expensive for me [I have recently finished university], but quite classic in terms of style.

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 91


S A M U E L

S H E P H E R D Thank you for taking the time to fill out this questionnaire. Your input is very much appreciated. Please be aware all answers are confidential and will only be used by Samuel Shepherd.

Age group: 15 - 24

25 - 34

35-44

44 - 60

7 - 15K

15 - 25K

25 - 50K

60+

Income level: 7K

50 - 100K

100K + In which area do you live? Midwest Where do you buy your footwear? Online or at the mall. Are you driven by current fashion trends / how would you describe your style? Not driven by but more ‘aware of’ What is the maximum amount you would spend on a pair of shoes? £150 What is your favourite shoe brand/designer? Don’t really have a favorite, like many brands What would you like to see from a new shoe brand entering the market? A purpose, like made in USA, or design that isn’t par for the course Tell me about the shoes you are wearing today, why did you buy them? I don’t buy most of my shoes, I get them through work. But they are comfortable and fit well and go with my wardrobe, so that’s why I wear them. What is your opinion of Kurt Geiger? I hate most “designer” shoe brands, they are just selling a name for a ridiculous price that is not justified by anything other then people with too much disposable income wanting to wear a ‘label’.

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 92


S A M U E L

S H E P H E R D Thank you for taking the time to fill out this questionnaire. Your input is very much appreciated. Please be aware all answers are confidential and will only be used by Samuel Shepherd.

Age group: 15 - 24

25 - 34

35-44

44 - 60

7 - 15K

15 - 25K

25 - 50K

60+

Income level: 7K

50 - 100K

100K + In which area do you live? Hayes (West London) Where do you buy your footwear? Office, Schuh and Faith Are you driven by current fashion trends / how would you describe your style? I would say I am fairly driven by current fasion trends, however my priority is just to find nice shoes that fit ( I have size 9 feet) What is the maximum amount you would spend on a pair of shoes? £60 What is your favourite shoe brand/designer? I don’t have one What would you like to see from a new shoe brand entering the market? A larger variety of fashionable shoes that caters to women with size nine feet. 2)Boots that cater for big feet but slim calves. Tell me about the shoes you are wearing today, why did you buy them? I am wearing flat black pumps. I brought them because they are appropriate for the office. What is your opinion of Kurt Geiger? I don’t have one really.

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 93


S A M U E L

S H E P H E R D Thank you for taking the time to fill out this questionnaire. Your input is very much appreciated. Please be aware all answers are confidential and will only be used by Samuel Shepherd.

Age group: 15 - 24

25 - 34

35-44

44 - 60

7 - 15K

15 - 25K

25 - 50K

60+

Income level: 7K

50 - 100K

100K +

In which area do you live? West Yorkshire/Lincolnshire Where do you buy your footwear? Office Topshop River Island New Look Are you driven by current fashion trends / how would you describe your style? I have my own sense of style but try to incorporate current trends into this What is the maximum amount you would spend on a pair of shoes? Everyday - £60 Treat - £200 What is your favourite shoe brand/designer? Kurt Geiger and Christian Louboutin What would you like to see from a new shoe brand entering the market? High fashion, innovative designs and good quality at a high street affordable price. Tell me about the shoes you are wearing today, why did you buy them? Flat leather nude pumps with sliver studs. Bought them as nude goes with most outfits, they’re quite smart yet has an edge to them with the studs, flats as I wear them as day wear. What is your opinion of Kurt Geiger? Gorgeous going out heels, and lovely flats, however not that long lasting, love the designs just wish they were a little cheaper!

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 94


S A M U E L

S H E P H E R D Thank you for taking the time to fill out this questionnaire. Your input is very much appreciated. Please be aware all answers are confidential and will only be used by Samuel Shepherd.

Age group: 15 - 24

25 - 34

35-44

44 - 60

7 - 15K

15 - 25K

25 - 50K

60+

Income level: 7K

50 - 100K

100K +

In which area do you live? 8QR Where do you buy your footwear? High street- Topshop,Zara H&M Are you driven by current fashion trends / how would you describe your style? Try to keep up with current trends but have my staples which I work around. Buy a couple of key items each year. What is the maximum amount you would spend on a pair of shoes? ÂŁ100 What is your favourite shoe brand/designer? Kurt Geiger What would you like to see from a new shoe brand entering the market? Affordability and versatility- ie shoes that you can both dress up and dress down in (probably more reflective of my own style) Tell me about the shoes you are wearing today, why did you buy them? Topshop pumps- simple black with patent toe and boe at the front. Conmfortable and suitable for work (insurance broker) What is your opinion of Kurt Geiger? Cutting edge yet translates into high street well. (Still a little expensive though)

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 95


S A M U E L

S H E P H E R D Thank you for taking the time to fill out this questionnaire. Your input is very much appreciated. Please be aware all answers are confidential and will only be used by Samuel Shepherd.

Age group: 15 - 24

25 - 34

35-44

44 - 60

7 - 15K

15 - 25K

25 - 50K

60+

Income level: 7K

50 - 100K

100K +

In which area do you live? Essex Where do you buy your footwear? Aldo/Dune/New Look/office Are you driven by current fashion trends / how would you describe your style? Sometimes but not over the top. Classic and dress it up. What is the maximum amount you would spend on a pair of shoes? ÂŁ100 What is your favourite shoe brand/designer? KG What would you like to see from a new shoe brand entering the market? Built in party feet! Tell me about the shoes you are wearing today, why did you buy them? Pumps to walk to work and black round toe paintent high heels for the office as they go with most outfits for work. What is your opinion of Kurt Geiger? Nice for special occassion but not everyday wear.

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 96


S A M U E L

S H E P H E R D Thank you for taking the time to fill out this questionnaire. Your input is very much appreciated. Please be aware all answers are confidential and will only be used by Samuel Shepherd.

Age group: 15 - 24

25 - 34

35-44

44 - 60

7 - 15K

15 - 25K

25 - 50K

60+

Income level: 7K

50 - 100K

100K +

In which area do you live? Sevenoaks, Kent Where do you buy your footwear? In order: Next ASOS New Look Barratts Are you driven by current fashion trends / how would you describe your style? My style is girly girl. I’m all about the ditsy tea dresses, heels and costume jewellery What is the maximum amount you would spend on a pair of shoes? £75 What is your favourite shoe brand/designer? Christian louboutin What would you like to see from a new shoe brand entering the market? I love the concept of Geox - shoes that breathe. It’s a shame that they aren’t very pretty. I’d love to see court shoes or t-bar shoes that let my feet breathe. They get rather hot running around all day. Tell me about the shoes you are wearing today, why did you buy them? Black shoe boots with 4” heels. They’re perfect for Autumn as they go with trousers and with black tights paired with little dresses. They’re also one of the few shoes I own that keep the rain out. Nothing makes me angrier than wet feet. What is your opinion of Kurt Geiger? Don’t know enough about them to have an opinion. I know they exist, but that’s about it

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT • 97


S A M U E L

S H E P H E R D Thank you for taking the time to fill out this questionnaire. Your input is very much appreciated. Please be aware all answers are confidential and will only be used by Samuel Shepherd.

Age group: 15 - 24

25 - 34

35-44

44 - 60

7 - 15K

15 - 25K

25 - 50K

60+

Income level: 7K

50 - 100K

100K +

In which area do you live? West London Where do you buy your footwear? Depends, have very small feet (size 2) so not a lot of high street companies which cater for this. Topshop, french sole, Kurt Geiger Are you driven by current fashion trends / how would you describe your style? Not really trend driven, just buy stuff that I like. Quite a girly style. What is the maximum amount you would spend on a pair of shoes? £200? Depends on the brand What is your favourite shoe brand/designer? Favourite designer is Cristian Louboutin, also like Mulberry’s shoes What would you like to see from a new shoe brand entering the market? Nice materials, not too high, something that stands out. Tell me about the shoes you are wearing today, why did you buy them? Fornarina flat pumps in black snake-effect leather. Bought them because I liked the style and they came in a size 2! What is your opinion of Kurt Geiger? Nice wide range of styles, but need to cater for little feet. Love most of their stuff.

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Concept Development  

Concept Development

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