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Bespoke shoes and more.. by Sam Amer BA Architecture Stage 1

• The English term cordwainer first appears in 1100. • Today cordovan leather is a vegetable tanned horse “shell”, and is used only for the highest quality shoes. • Cordwainers will only use the finest of leathers for there bespoke shoes. • The first English guild who called themselves cordwainers was founded at Oxford in 1131. • The Worshipful Company of Cordwainers has used this title since receiving its first Ordinances in 1272.

Cordwainer Research

This diagram is explaining how the shoe crafting business has become so machined, which means the art of shoe making is being lost. The outcome of the hand crafted shoe is of such a higher quality than the machined shoe, but it does take more time to produce.

Cordwainer Research: Factory production vs Bespoke production

Firstly a container is produced, slightly bigger than the foot to keep wastage to a minimum.

The container is then prepared for the pouring of alginate.

The alginate is poured over the foot, the alginate takes around 10 minutes to set.

The foot is carefully removed, this leaves a negative of the foot. The negative is filled with harder setting moulding material such as plaster.

After two hours the mould is removed from the negative.

Cordwainer Research: The Last making Process

The mould is smoothed using tape, then a wooden last is carved using this.

Firstly the pattern is cut from the leather for the particular style of shoe.

The leather is then stapled to the insole.

A sole is then attached to the shoe, either glued or stitched and glued.

Cordwainer Research: The Shoe making Process

Next The leather will be thinned on the edges, this is called skiving, then stitched together.

Next a welt is attached using a rough rounding maching, this will later is ‘inked’.

Finally the shoe is polished then ready to be collected.

Immediate surrounding businesses. Buildings highlited red have closed.

Margate Regeneration Questionnaire Gender? Male ☐ Female ☐ Other ☐

Important questionnaire results:

Age? <18 ☐ 18-25 ☐ 26-35 ☐ 36-45 ☐ 46-55 ☐ 56-65 ☐ >65 ☐ Estimated Annual Household Income? £0-£9,999 ☐ £10,000-£19,999 ☐ £20,000-£29,999 ☐ £30,000-£39,999 ☐ £40,000-£49,999 ☐ £50,000-£59,999 ☐ £60,000£69,999 ☐ £70,000-£79,999 ☐ £80,000-£89,999 ☐ £90,000-£99,999 ☐ £100,000+ ☐   Out the following, which do you think would be more beneficial to the economical climate of Margate the most? ☐ Investment in retail ☐ Investment in Dreamland ☐ Investment in the Seafront ☐ Increased attention to crime ☐ Increased use of the harbour ☐ Improved Tourist Accommodation Would a row of buildings, housing professional and apprentice craftsman/specialists, along the Harbour Arm help to regenerate Margate? ☐ Yes ☐ No ☐ Maybe/Don’t know Would you be willing to pay a significantly higher price for handcrafted shoes designed for you? ☐ Yes ☐ No

Research of Margate

Average household income: £30,000 - £39,999. Most popular investment idea: Investment in retail. Percentage of people willing to pay more for bespoke shoes: 4%

Conclusion: Although people will buy the bespoke shoes there will need to be other leather goods for sale.

Good points:

Good points:

Good points:

Good points:

Keeps original site shape.

many open spaces.

Keeps original site shape.

Keeps original site shape.

Bad points:

Bad points:

Bad points:

Bad points:

Cantilever is aesthetically unpleasing.

Maquettes - Spatial Ideas

Very little indoor space. Lost original site shape.

Not enough space.

Just an extrusion of site.

A bespoke room within a monolithic structure My proposal is to design one room to be the focal point of the building. This room is to be suspended above the head of all visitors to the building. This room will serve the purpose of the bespoke shoe room, where clients will meet the Cordwainer to start their journey of having the bespoke shoes designed and crafted. The reason I have designed this room how I have is because, although this is a private process, it also emphasis how special the process is.

Concept model

Floating Meeting rooms Conference rooms designed by Schmidt Hammer Lassen architects, for Nykredit headquarters building in Copenhagen, Denmark. These Rooms even though they are completely open they feel special because the appear to be floating. I feel as if the bespoke room has to be more private than this.

Bespoke Room Precedent

Hotel Porta Fira by Toyo Ito

Berry Sports and Recreational Centre, NSW.

Useful points for my projects:

Useful points for my projects:

How the building get spreads for increased floor space towards the top.

Cast concrete allows for complex and intricate fenestration.

Unconventionally placed fenestration.

Form Precedent

Experiment with different fenestration ideas The small holes represent translucent concrete and is effective. The larger less conventional openings across the floor plate express the concrete structure.

Lighting experiment

Collage of inhabited model

Longitudinal Urban Section with proposal 1:100

Transveral Urban Section with proposal 1:100

Lower Ground Level Plan 1:50

Entrance Level Plan 1:50

Bespoke Room Level Plan 1:50

First Floor Plan 1:50

Second Floor Plan 1:50

Third Floor Plan 1:50

Section A 1:50

Section B 1:50

North Elevation 1:50

South Elevation 1:50

Presentation Model

Prospective Presentation Model

Architecture Year 1, term 2 (a)  

First Building design. Brief: A building for a professional and his apprentice on margate harbour arm. My professional is a Cordwainer.