10. cover story
08 OPINION LIVE INTERNATIONAL NEWS 16 Kids’ Products Suspected with Lead at Walmart and Target 16 French Connection Signs License Deal with Li & Fung
HOME, APPAREL & TEXTILE NEWS 17 Textile Dyeing Plants Shut Down in Erode for not Installing ETP 17 Suryalakshmi Cotton Mills to Set up a New Spinning Unit 17 New Managing Director at Messe Frankfurt India 17 Powerloom Sector in Surat to Go for Vacation
14. FACE TO FACE
IKEA Looking forward to expand sourcing base in India
– Susanne BergstRand
Top Tips for being a CFM Merchandiser
21 INDUSTRY ON THE MOVE TECHNOLOGY UPDATE 24 CISMI forays into Jaipur- Rajasthan 24 Eastman Cutting Training Centre Inaugurated at ALT Training College, Bangalore 26 Quality and Result Oriented Testing Machines from Supertech
BURNING ISSUE 29 Appreciation of Rupee Concerns Indian Textile Exporters
36. FAIR & EVENTS
DENIMz 30 Denim Trends by Sandeep Agarwal
FAIR & EVENTS Technology Suppliers Gather at Mumbai after Seven Years at Gartexma Exhibition Decision Makers Visit Makes the Show a Success
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33 EPCH Organizes 30th Edition of Indian Handicrafts and Gifts Fair 40 Kingpins, an Exclusive Denim Show to be Organized in India
R e flec ti ons
editor & publisher DEEPTI MARWAH consulting editor
JEFF SANDS (US) & prod. DESIGN X MEDIA
SHIRAZ CHAND circulation manager
PALAK managing director
SAINA MEDIA head office
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he cotton debate in the industry has been going for many months now, however, there seems to be no end to the topic. While on one hand the government wants to maintain a balance between exports and the domestic market, the traders and manufacturers stand against each other in the issue. However, the way the government is handling the issue is worth appreciation as it is trying to take decisions in everybody’s favour including farmers, traders and manufacturers. The conspiracy on the issue continues and there seems to no end to it. The increasing raw material prices has affected everybody in the supply chain, however, are the buyers ready to pay for the increase? We have raised the same the question in our opinion live section. In the face 2 face section, we met Susanne Bergstrand, Ikea's Trading Area Manager for South Asia operations, who shared that the company looks forward to expand sourcing from India and will get a business of nearly Rs 3,500 crore from Ikea in the next five years. A job of merchandiser requires many skills and tactics to face the everyday challenges on shop floor. In the strategize business section, you will read interesting tips on how to be an efficient merchandiser, who are an important part in the supply chain and play a pivotal role in getting the shipments correct and on time. This month you will also read about upcoming trends in denim, in terms of applications, fabrics, threads, style and finishes. Interestingly, the denim industry in India is experiencing a strong growth and the demand for new finishes and technology is high. Seeing the increasing demand, Arvind Mills, the biggest denim mills in India also rolled out its plan to start a denim manufacturing facility in Bangladesh. Hope you will enjoy the issue and will give your feedbacks.
Deepti Marwah Editor
perfectsourcing OM SAI RAM
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OCTOBER 2010 n perfectsourcing
Over the last few months, the textile and apparel industry has been going through a rough patch due to factors like increase of raw material prices, labour cost, currency fluctuation and many more. As a result, the cost of production has considerably gone up and exporters are facing difficulties in managing
he buyers are well aware of the situation as they know that prices are becoming an issue of concern not only in India, but all over the world. In terms of percentage, they are willing to increase the prices by 10 to 15%. Though the orders are coming back on track, the volumes have still not attained the traditional figures.
JJ Merchandising, Delhi
es, buyers at the medium, high and the basic level of retailing are now understanding the market situation and have started working on prices. The fact of the matter is that India is an important product base known for innovation, diversity, communication skills and hospitality, thus the buyers want to source out of India again and again. Moreover, the high cost of production and raw material prices is not only evident in India, but other countries like China also. The buyers are increasing the selling prices at the retail stores and are accepting 10 to 15% increase in prices. Pankaj,
Pankaj Merchandising, Delhi
he buyers are accepting hike in prices up to a limit and not for all product categories. We can say that around 20 to 25% hike is being accepted. How are they going to do is quite uncertain as they might not increase the selling price and the only way out is by reducing their profit margins. There is a price war in the market and the buyers are taking decisions with respect to prices very cautiously. The biggest change that has happened is that they have stopped sourcing very cheap products and are looking for products that give value for money.
Times International, Delhi
eeing the current market situation, the buyers have agreed to increase prices. Over the last two years the dynamics of market have changed a lot, not only due to recession, but also due to other factors like labour problem, cost of power, fuel, raw material, etc. Since all these things are prevalent in the market for quite some time now, buyers have started increasing the prices and are now considering change in their sourcing pattern also.
higher costs. In this scenario, are the buyers at the other side of supply chain understanding the situation and are ready to increase the prices? If yes, by how much percent the hike is being made?
lowly, buyers will agree to the increased amount as competing countries like China, Bangladesh and Vietnam too have increased the prices of their products due to high prevailing cotton price in the international market.
President, Tirupur Exporters Association
ight now the buyers are holding orders and are not willing to increase the prices, however, it can be expected in the near future. The buyers are still trying to squeeze prices everyday in order to be competitive. The yarn prices are highly unstable and we are not able to take up orders. The volatility is a real issue, yesterday we confirmed a deal for a product at the price what buyer was asking for only because the yarn prices were not high. However, just the next day we found that the yarn prices have again gone up from Rs 800/kg to Rs 815/kg. If the buyer would give small order, we will still manage to survive, but in case volume order comes we will get in losses. The buyers might increase prices in the coming days, however, the current scenario is highly unpredictable. The government has to take an affirmative action by formulating policies that can stable the yarn prices for at least a period of one year so that we can accept forward orders.
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Pacific Venture India, Tirupur
Idyllic Creations, Delhi
COVER STORY Months have gone by, new strategies, new policies and fresh announcements have been made, however, the cotton sector’s bumpy rides are still not over. The controversy regarding whether to export or not to export started when the raw material prices in the country started soaring high. It was believed that this happened only because the demand was exceeding supply. However, so far there is no clarity on the issue. Team Perfect Sourcing decided to get a reality check on the situation and tried to find out real aspects related to the cotton exports controversy……..
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Arrival of lint cotton in the market up to November 30 would be only around 60-65 lakh bales and consumption during the period would exceed 45 lakh bales. Thus, even if last year’s ending stock of 40.5 lakh bales as estimated by Cotton Advisory Board is taken into account in full, there will be practically no cotton stock left in the country if 55 lakh bales get exported during this time. Shishir Jaipuria, Chairman, Committee of the Confederation of Indian Textile Industry
The country has enough cotton for domestic use as well as exports. We are not considering any change in current export window as supplies are likely to improve between January and March, which will also ease prices. Textile secretary, Rita Menon
Adopting the practices of other cotton-producing, exporting and consuming countries, India should ensure at least 60 days' carryover stock to prevent today's situation of zero inventory and skyrocketing prices. Manikam Ramaswami, MD, Loyal Textile Mills
entire episode started when cotton prices remained very low over two seasons. This brought down the cotton grown across the globe, except in India. The previous UPA government announced various schemes to improve inclusive growth; among them was a 40% increase in support price for cotton. This made cotton farming a very lucrative operation, so much so that even when the total cultivated land came down due to a delayed monsoon, acreage under cotton actually grew. However, as cotton exports are freely allowed, this makes domestic cotton prices follow international prices. Cotton accounts for 65-70% of the yarn cost and a 35% increase in cotton prices means a 20% increase in yarn prices. Prices of raw cotton rose by about 3035% over the last six months due to the rising demand for the commodity from other international markets. In last financial year, India exported 2.3 million bales cotton leading to lower opening stock in the new season beginning October 2010 to 4 million bales. This is against 7.1 million bales during October 2009. The domestic price of cotton has increased from Rs 23,000 per candy (356 kg) in April 2010 to Rs 41,000 per candy before subsiding to Rs 36,000 on the news that the processing of export contracts had been shelved until the end of October. The problem of increased shortage of yarn has been growing over the past few months, only due to the fact that the per capita consumption of textiles in both India and China is growing rapidly with the per capita income. A metre increase in India's per capita
consumption of fabrics will need an addition of 15 lakh spindles and will consume 11 lakh bales of cotton
A Reality Check According to Shishir Jaipuria, Chairman, CITI, cotton price was around Rs 28,000 for a candy (for Shankar-6 cotton) until farmers sold their produce completely by April. After that, the traders manipulated the market in such a way that the price has now reached Rs 39,000 a candy. Thus, Rs 11,000 a candy is going directly into the traders' pockets. This is the result of an artificial scarcity created by traders by shipping 83 lakh bales out of the country, from the total crop of 295 lakh bales.
Why was an Artificial Demand Created? For every metre increase in per capita cloth consumption, 20 lakh additional bales of cotton is required. Now to achieve this cotton production and consumption are estimated by different interest groups and an average is arrived at. In this process, traders overestimate the cotton crop and underestimate the consumption to arrive at a higher exportable surplus. It is a group of about six or seven multinational traders, with access to cheap finance, that reap the benefits, as it can easily outbid domestic traders and then export straight to China, which will apparently pay almost any price to build up stocks and keep its textile and garment industry, its major export earner and employer, humming. “Traders were able to secure export incentives for cotton sold the
previous year and the current year, and simultaneously got the Cotton Corporation of India (CCI) to support them as well,” said Jaipuria. CCI came out with a policy of offering over 10% discount, including free warehousing and carrying of purchased cotton for up to six months, only for large traders. “Traders used this benefit to sell cotton at 10% cheaper to our textile competitors, after earning 5-10% profits. This ruined the profitability of the textile industry for 18 months,” said Manikam Ramaswami, MD, Loyal Textile Mills. To avoid the situation, it was required that only the clearly established surplus must be exported. “Adopting the practices of other cotton-producing, exporting and consuming countries, India should ensure at least 60 days' carryover stock to prevent today's situation of zero inventory and skyrocketing prices,” added Ramaswami. The industry felt that out of the 40 lakh bales stock in August, 32 lakh bales is with various mills and 8 lakh bales with the Cotton Corporation of India (CCI). However, the cotton available with the CCI was the old, left-over stock which was not spinnable. The stock available currently is not sufficient to last even a couple of months. And this is the context in which 20 organisations representing the textile value chain have requested the Prime Minister to intervene to limit cotton exports to the exportable surplus available. “It is unfortunate that lobbies are attempting to restrict exports that are bound to benefit the country and place the interests of the cotton growers' at the forefront,” said Jaipuria.
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Government’s Response While on one hand the spinning (textile) industry was asking for a ban on cotton exports to control the situation, the growers and traders, on the other hand, wanted exports to be allowed because global prices are attractive. Seeing the situation, the government suspended registration of raw cotton export shipments indefinitely effective April 19, 2010. The decision was welcomed by the exporters, but not the farmers and traders of the country. Moreover, even after the ban, the prices did not come under control as export contracts worth more than 79 lakh bales were already registered with the Textiles Commissioner.
The ceiling on the export of cotton up to a limit of 5.5 million bales could, however, be raised, lowered, or new export regulations may be brought into force, after the assessment of cotton production estimates, its demand in the local market and its prices, on 15th November. “The country has enough cotton for domestic use as well as exports. We are not considering any change in current export window as supplies are likely to improve between January and March, which will also ease prices,” said Textile secretary, Rita Menon. The total cotton production in the country was expected to be about 300 lakh bales this year (September 2009-October 2010), against 290 lakh bales last year. Even while the world production of raw cotton dipped by about 5%, the production of raw cotton in the country rose due to a 40% increase in minimum support price (MSP) of raw cotton in 2008-09.
The Solution Ahead
To balance out the situation, the Central Government decided to put a cap on cotton exports at 55 lakh bales for 2010-11 effective from 1st October 2010 and also added that the policy would be reviewed on 15th November 2010. It has also been mentioned that a prohibitive export duty will be imposed once the cotton exports touched the ceiling fixed at 55 lakh bales. However, the total contracts have already touched the ceiling of 55 lakh bales, spurring fears of cotton shortage in the country.
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We need capacity addition of very high quality to take advantage of the global yarn shortage. Unless yarn production becomes economically viable, no new investment will take place. Market forces should be allowed to operate without interference to increase the profitability of spinning mills to at least 10% on turnover. The Ministry should come up with a cotton fibre policy every year; formulate a committee consisting of trade and industry, cotton traders and all stakeholders and streamline the flow, instead of initiating action after a section of the industry raise hue and cry over an issue. “A curious factor, though, for the next season is that total supply is seen down at 370.50 lakh bales, primarily on account of the low carryover stocks,” said Ashok Jayaram, Bangalore. The Government's decision to suspend cotton exports will remove ambiguity in the minds of cotton farmers, assure them of remunerative price for their produce and encourage them to produce more cotton. “It will also send a positive signal to the global cotton economy and remove doubts in the minds of buyers of Indian cotton worldwide,” said Dhiren Seth, President of CAI. With frequent intervention of the government and yielding to the pressures by vested interests, cotton growing amongst farmers cannot be fostered. It is time for the government to usher in an era that allows the free interplay of demand and supply to determine a commodity's true market price. Despite the exports and rising domestic demand, the carryover stocks
could be higher at 55 lakh bales from the next season. The domestic prices could be under pressure due to the record crop, possibly affecting growers. However, prices will sustain above the minimum support level fixed by the government in view of steps to lift export ban. Prices could further be supported if the millers raise their inventories finding it attractive to procure at the lower cost. Thus, it is important to allow domestic producers, a majority of whom are relatively small spinners or weavers compared with the global scales of production, to build up their stocks, as present stocks are extremely low, at less than two months' requirements. China enables its producers to maintain at least three to four months' stocks, and the world average is similar. With opening balances in India at an all-time low of less than 40 lakh bales, any undue hurry in allowing exports may well see avoidable volatility in domestic cotton and textile prices. “We should carefully balance the cost and benefits of making a quick export buck, while ensuring that our domestic textiles and garments industry is not grievously injured by unaffordably high cotton prices,” said Rajiv Kumar Former Director, ICRIER, and a former Chief Economist, CII. An export target of 40 lakh bales that is half the volume exported last year, would perhaps be appropriate in view of the precarious state of domestic supplies and stocks of cotton. Given these realities and consumption of 22-23 lakh bales per month by the Indian industry, we should look at exports only after we have over 30 lakh bales pressed in excess of consumption during a month.
Worldwide Impact With India suspending its export of cotton, the Pakistani textile industry is worried, as it was banking on import of one million bales of the commodity from its neigbour to sustain its order books. Hit by the recent crop damage on account of floods and high prices of clothing material, Pakistani traders had placed orders for importing one million bales of cotton between November and January from neighbouring India. The government in the earlier statement had agreed to allow cotton exports from October onwards, considering optimistic outlook for the production. The quota set for the cotton export for the cotton year 2010-11 was 5.5 million bales (a bale = 170 kg).
After a big shift of textile production to Bangladesh, the country now is having serious problems because of the shortage of cotton. On average, Bangladesh is exporting cotton products valued at more than $15 billion. These exports are now jeopardized because the country's cotton industry depends heavily on Indian cotton, with 30% of processed cotton originating from India. This ban also imposes another rather socioeconomic problem: more than one million handloom weavers also depend on cotton. If the situation doesn't improve in a short time, they also will be in trouble.
China’s Strategy China would be justified in its efforts to corner as much global supplies as possible because, with the floods in Pakistan destroying nearly a third of the cotton crop and lower levels of expected production in Uzbekistan, the global cotton supply and demand balance is likely to be very tight in 2010-11. It must be noted that China, despite being the largest producer of cotton (India is
second and the US third) does not allow any cotton exports, as it is committed to expanding higher valueadded exports. By ensuring proper estimation of production, consumption and surplus and allowing exports of surplus cotton alone in a calibrated manner, it has to be ensured that the farmer gets international prices right through the year and the textile industry is not starved of cotton. The surplus can be exported in an organized manner and the cotton buyers in Pakistan, Bangladesh and China will know beforehand the monthly exportable quantities which will give them the confidence to deal with India on a regular basis.
Industry Opposes Government Decision to Commence Cotton Exports “Cotton exports beyond 5.5 million bales should not be allowed at any cost, since domestic industry consumption as per projections of Cotton Advisory Board is going to be more than 26.6 million bales," said Ashish Bagrodia, chairman of North Indian Textile Mills Association. “Arrival of lint cotton in the market up to November 30 would
be only around 60-65 lakh bales and consumption during the period would exceed 45 lakh bales. Thus, even if last year’s ending stock of 40.5 lakh bales as estimated by Cotton Advisory Board is taken into account in full, there will be practically no cotton stock left in the country if 55 lakh bales get exported during this time. This will lead to a cotton famine in the country and mills will be forced to close down or scale down production drastically,” said Jaipuria Criticizing the government decision to allow exports of 5.5 million bales, Confederation of Indian Textile Industries (Citi), premier textile industry body has also petitioned PM Manmohan Singh on the issue pointing to possible cotton deficit in the country. To ease the crisis, Citi had sought delaying cotton exports till January 2011 and phased exports of one million bales per month there after. The AEPC has also been seeking government intervention to boost exports of garments and value added products in the lines of China and Bangladesh. “We urge the government to ensure that exports of cotton / yarn are calibrated and did not cause supply disruption to producers of garments for export and domestic markets,” said Premal Udani, Chairman, AEPC.
Bangladesh in Deep Trouble
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LOOKING FORWARD TO EXPAND SOURCING BASE IN INDIA PS: Over the last few months, the prices of raw materials like cotton, labour, electricity in India has increased manifolds. While earlier the exporters were managing and had learnt ways of reducing margins, but now with prices soaring high many exporters have started approaching buyers for price hike. As a liaison office what is the strategy for this situation.
With over 31 distribution centers in 16 countries, 45 trading service offices in 31 countries and close relationships with more than 1,350 suppliers in 50 countries, Ikea is no doubt an important buyer for India. The company that has its liaison office in Gurgoan has been known for sourcing a product range that has good design and function at a low price. Vendors in India feel that working with Ikea is an opportunity not only for growing their business but also, is a learning experience wherein they go through various challenges. The group offers quality home furnishing products at affordable prices at its stores spread all over the world. Team Perfect Sourcing recently came face 2 face with Susanne BergstRand, Ikea, who shared that how with the changing market dynamics, the company has restructured its sourcing strategies.
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Susanne Bergstrand n We acknowledge that raw material prices (like cotton) are at an all time high. At the same time consumers are having increasingly thin wallets. People are careful on where they spend their valuable money. We are convinced that our customers around the world want and need great home furnishing solutions for even less money now. However, we consider this as a fantastic opportunity for IKEA and suppliers to work closely in finding new and smarter ways to deliver more with less. The focus is to reduce the total cost in the whole supply chain. Production efficiency, use of less material while maintaining customer experienced product quality, longterm commitments to enable efficient raw material procurement, packaging solutions to reduce transport costs and long term alternate raw materials are some initiatives we have taken together with our suppliers to save costs. We are continuously working on reducing the cost of poor quality both at our suppliers end and in the supply chain. In line with the above we have also started a Supplier Development Process with our most important suppliers. The goal of this program is develop our suppliers’ capability for significantly improved performance when it comes to efficiency, quality, product development, etc. which will result in cost reductions and increased competitiveness.
PS: It has been observed that after recession engulfed the world, there were many changes in buying preferences, where do you see customers liking more towards? Susanne Bergstrand n During the period of recession we found that customers worldwide wanted exactly what we have become famous for - good quality products that meet the needs of everyday customers at prices so low that the many people can afford them. We also believe that our customers are increasingly interested in products that are more sustainable, for example more energy and water saving. Our customers are also increasingly caring about the conditions under which products are produced. PS: What is the situation at the consumers end; after recession have they started spending like they used to do earlier? Susanne Bergstrand n Yes, consumers have started to spend more as compared to the recession time. However, they want value for money and are very careful where they want to spend their hard earned money. Our “good everyday quality at affordable prices - offer” has given us good growth last year. IKEA fiscal year 2010 ended with a turnover of €23.1 billion which is a 7.7% growth as compared to the previous year. PS: Has Ikea also consolidated its lis1t of vendors in the last few months like other liaison offices? Susanne Bergstrand n No, in fact we are committed to grow our business in India and throughout South Asia for the next years. This means that we shall be extending the number of suppliers we have. Our focus is on big suppliers having
FACE TO FACE
globally scalable capacities and most importantly those who share our fundamental values of doing business. PS: In India, Ikea is sourcing both hard goods and soft textiles, what is the ratio of sourcing between the two? Susanne Bergstrand n The major share of sourcing is textiles including carpets, which constitute more than 80% of our volumes. However, we are seeing fantastic opportunities in the areas of plastics, metals, lighting and other materials. PS: Any plans of expanding sourcing and adding new vendors? Is Ikea looking at exploring some new product range from India? Can you name some of them? Susanne Bergstrand n Yes, we
believe there is great potential in the region and are expanding our sourcing including opening new industrialized suppliers, who share IKEA values and are interested in working with big volumes and low costs. In textiles, we are looking at expanding our sourcing of machine made rugs, upholstery covers and blinds. We are also planning to source cutlery, pots and pans from new industrialized factories which our suppliers are investing in for IKEA to mention a few examples. PS: It is being heard that since Indian vendors are not able to match price points offered by Ikea, the group is shifting its sourcing to other countries, is this true and if yes which are the countries under spotlight?
Some of the product sourced by Ikea Susanne Bergstrand n No, this is not true, we plan to expand our business in India and throughout South Asia over time, but need to continually work together with our partners to find new, innovative ways to lower costs. That is our challenge and we believe it is possible and that we can contribute to the textile industry in South Asia by contributing with our vast production experience from other material categories and other markets. Our strong commitment towards sustainability will also have an impact in the region by our continuous efforts to improve t he conditions for the workers producing IKEA products as well as reducing the environmental foot print.
PS: How would you rate India in compliance out of scale of 10, where do you think is the biggest change required? Susanne Bergstrand n
We have invested big efforts in the compliance area over during the last ten years and we have also seen a tremendous positive movement in compliance. This has been an outcome of IKEA working closely with suppliers in creating awareness, training and development and connecting compliance to business growth. However the challenge now is to move up the ladder of compliance from "formal" compliance “Yes, I will if you insist I do it” to a more genuine compliance “Yes, I do this because I believe in this and I have another good idea of how we can go even further”.
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Kids’ Products Suspected with Lead at Walmart and Target
storm engulfed the retail market, after lead exceeding the permissible amount was suspected in toys, jewellery, furniture and other children’s products in Walmart and Target stores. The Center for Environmental Health (CEH) found high levels of lead, in violation of federal standards, in five children’s products from WalMart and Target. Independent testing commissioned by CEH found high lead levels in two chairs sold for toddlers at Target. Testing showed that one of the Target chairs contained more than 70 times the legal limit for lead. Testing of Walmart products found high lead levels in a toddlers’ bean bag chairs, youth boxing gloves and toy foam beads sold for children’s jewellery. The items ranged from more than 3 times to more than 45 times the legal limit. The products were purchased between September 11 and September 18 from Bay Area outlets of the two retailers and online from the companies’ websites. Last month, the Consumer Product Safety Commission requested comments on the technical feasibility of lowering the permissible lead levels in children’s products from 300 ppm to 100 ppm. Some industry representatives have argued that lowering the standard would force them to stop making certain children’s products. In response, CEH submitted test data on more than 2,300 components of children’s products that the group tested between September 2009 and July 2010, showing that all of them are already meeting this standard. CEH also sent the Commission a copy of its March 2010 agreement with Dollar Tree stores, which requires the retailer to limit lead in children’s ponchos to no more than 40 ppm. CEH is testing children's products for compliance to the federal and California laws as part of a state compliance testing program.
French Connection Signs License Deal with Li & Fung
ashion retailer French Connection has signed an agreement with the US subsidiary of Li & Fung to sell a range of young fashion items in Sears stores. According to the new deal French Connection clothing will be sold at Sears stores in the US. Li & Fung USA, the American branch of the consumer goods supply giant, will be licensed to supply items for use under the UK Style by French Connection brand name.
Walmart Announces Intent to Acquire South Africa-based Massmart
al-Mart Stores Inc. recently announced its intent to acquire Massmart Holdings Limited for ZAR148 per share. Massmart, headquartered in Johannesburg, is one of the largest distributors of consumer goods on the African continent and is the leading African retailer of general merchandise, home improvement equipment and supplies. Massmart is also the market-leading retailer of basic foods in the region. The company runs 290 stores in 13 countries in Africa, with the vast majority of its stores in South Africa, and manages eight wholesale and retail chains operating under a variety of different brand names.
perfectsourcing n OCTOBER 2010
US Consumer Expenditure begins to Rise
fter a two years long slowdown in the market, there are now some positive signs as consumers in the US have started reviving budgets for shopping. According to Textile Intelligence report consumer expenditure on clothing and footwear rebounded during the first half of 2010, after declining in 2008 and 2009. Reflecting the rebound, there was a 19.8% rise in the volume of US textile and clothing imports in the first seven months of 2010. There was also an increase in exports as demand in foreign markets picked up. As a result of these trends, US textile and clothing output rose significantly in the first half of 2010. In Argentina, textile output declined by 3.9% in 2009 but increased by a sharp 24% in the first half of 2010. Foreign sales followed much the same pattern. In 2009, textile and clothing exports dropped by 20.9%, but in the first half of 2010 they rose by 55.4%. The industry in Brazil enjoyed a similar recovery as textile and clothing exports grew by 7.9% in the first seven months of 2010 after dropping by 21.8% in 2009. Textile output alone rose by 12.3% in the first four months of 2010 after falling by 6.4% in 2009 while clothing production was up by 12.4% after a 7.9% decline.
JCPenney to Expand its Presence in Markets
CPenney Company, Inc. announced that it is expanding its presence in major markets which are currently underserved by the Company and offer great potential for expansion due to their demographic profiles. This initiative is a key component of JCPenney's Long Range Plan, which is expected to drive substantial sales gains over the next five years. It will begin with the opening, in 2011, of three new JCPenney stores in Daly City (San Francisco), Calif., Glenarden (Washington, D.C.), Md., and Dallas. The company also announced the transformation of the JCPenney in-store experience through its store renovation program. This program is designed to highlight the retailer’s most innovative new brands and concepts, including creating a more exciting shopping environment for customers.
Hyderabad based Suryalakshmi Cotton Mills Limited, a major player in Denim and Yarn Industry is coming up with a new ultra modem spinning unit of 50,000 spindles in A.P. at a cost of Rs. 165 Crores. The company has a 40 mn meters Denim plant at Ramtek and 50,000 spindles unit in Andhra Pradesh. Suryalakshmi’s net revenue increased by 4% as compared with the last quarter of current financial year, from Rs 129.22 crores for the quarter ended June 30, 2010 to Rs 134.50 crores for the quarter ended September 30, 2010. The performance for 2012-’13 will reflect the results of both these expansions. Suryalakshmi, one of the major players in the textile industry in South has modern spinning units at Amanagallu in Mahboobnagar District in Andhra Pradesh and a 40 million meter denim plant at Ramtek near Nagpur, Maharashtra. The company’s subsidiary Suryakiran International Ltd, located in the outskirts of Hyderabad, is into the manufacture and export of denim garments.
Textile dyeing plants shut down in Erode for not Installing ETP
Four textile dyeing plants and a tannery in Erode have been shut down by the Revenue and Pollution Control Board for not installing the effluent treatment plants within their premises. The plants in Kumilankuttai, Agraharam, Vairapalayam, Periya and some other places in Erode were inspected and it was found that the four dyeing plants have been releasing their waste materials into drains, without treating the same. The tannery had installed the RO plant but it was not operational. The five plants were shut down and a case was registered against the owners of the plants.
Powerloom Sector in Surat to Go for Vacation The weavers from Surat have decided to go for a long Diwali vacation as currently there is overproduction and boost in the prices of yarn, Usually, the sector go for a 10-day-long Diwali vacation, but this year, the weavers have collectively taken the decision to extend the vacation period in order to tackle the issues of excess production and increased yarn prices. There are 7,00,000 powerlooms in Surat which are used for weaving 25 million metres of grey fabric every day. The textile traders buy the grey fabrics and send them to the various processing houses for dyeing and printing. This time, the demand for finished fabrics has been recorded at an all-time low due to the rise in temperature and the floods that have affected most of the north Indian states during the monsoon season.The spinners producing polyester yarn have raised the prices of yarn between Rs 2 to Rs 5 per kilogram as a result of the rise in petroleum products, which is one of the major raw materials used in polyester yarn manufacturing.
New Managing Director at Messe Frankfurt India Messe Frankfurt Trade Fairs India Pvt Ltd, one of the biggest fair organizers in the world recently announced a key change to its management team with the appointment of Raj Manek as the MD of Messe Frankfurt Trade Fairs India Pvt Ltd. With immediate effect, he has taken over Shammi Nagpal, who was associated with the company for a long time and was holding the designation of Regional Director, Asia Pacific, Messe Frankfurt Asia Holding Ltd. With an experience of more than 17 years, Manek has worked with companies like P&O Exhibitions which owned London’s Earls Court and Olympia exhibition venues. He was the Finance Manager with Reed Exhibition Companies before joining the ITE Group Plc as Group Operation Finance Director from 1997 to 2001. Before joining Messe Frankfurt in 2009, Manek was COO for Expomedia Group Plc in India. Buurma, MD, Messe Frankfurt Asia Holding Ltd and Director of Messe Frankfurt Trade Fairs India Pvt Ltd said: “Raj is the ideal person to lead Messe Frankfurt India. He will give our Indian operation a new direction which will help us to fulfill the potential that exists in this exciting and challenging market. Manek said, “I look forward to working with my colleagues and board members to drive growth and to further capitalize on the many opportunities that lie ahead for Messe Frankfurt India.”
HOME & TEXTILE NEWS
Suryalakshmi Cotton Mills to Set up a New Spinning Unit
Garment Manufacturers to Hike Rates by 10-20% The exorbitant increase in the price of raw cotton has forced the prime readymade apparel manufacturers to raise the prices of their cotton garments by 10 to 20%. Most of the companies have raised the prices of their branded apparels. Some companies have already started quoting 15-20% price hike in their latest orders for certain apparel collections. The booking rates for new production orders have also been raised by clothing manufacturing companies. Most of the garment manufacturers have been questioning the government’s decision on permitting the export of 5.5 million bales of cotton at a time when the cotton prices are experiencing a hike in the local market.
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a ing e b r o f s p i Top t ' r e s i d an h c r e m CFM In today's extremely competitive apparel industry, CFM-Customer Focused Merchandising is the single most important factor that can differentiate you from others in the field. We cannot afford to be satisfied with just being 'nice' to customer anymore. We must aim to offer them an unforgettable experience. This requires not just training, skills and knowledge, but creating an environment where people take pride in serving others. Buyers/ Customers are not just buying the product or service from you, they purchase 'how they feel doing business with you'. It's the memory they retain of how it was to work with you...and that's what keeps them coming back to you again.
1. Be the Expert
2. Professionalism counts
You must know your job thoroughly so that your customer can trust you. An understanding about fabrics, fit/ pattern issues, costing, lead times, etc. is a must have for a CFM merchant. For example, if you get a request from the buyer for making a certain complex garment at a very sharp price, you as a CFM merchant should be able to act as a consultant to the buyer by giving them options of what modifications can be made to make the garment fit in the target price, as well as warn them of any potential lead time or production feasibility issues to allow the customer to make an informed decision right at the outset of development stage.
Professionalism in every job that they do is what makes a CFM merchant shine above the rest. Whether it's a swatch card you make, a lab dip submit you prepare or a cost sheet you send to buyer, in every job that you do, you can make a tremendous difference to the experience the customer will go through, just by being a thorough professional. I have witnessed a million frustrating moments that buyers face, when a job is not professionally done. Trying to figure out a badly hand written tag, scratched/ rewritten information on swatch cards, incomplete information on submit cards are just a few examples. A professionally done job is what makes the customer go satisfied.
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3. Make it easy for the customer CFM merchants will ensure to make life easy for customer. Simple! Let me give you some examples. If you are offering different fabric options to the customer make sure to include complete fabric details in terms of count, construction, weight, width, lead-time and price. Also, even go a step further, to give an estimated garment fob for each fabric option being offered. That is where you can make life easy for buyer, by anticipating and proactively addressing all their needs, without being asked to. I am reminded of a situation I came across in my life as a merchant. A particular submit was rejected for quality
by buyer with almost panic sounding remarks, when it was intended for colour approval. Now if you were a CFM merchant, the situation would never have arisen, because you would have simply made sure to write complete details on the submit including the purpose-ONLY FOR COLOR APPROVAL, NOT FOR QUALITY.
4. Speed to customer CFM merchants realize the importance of the need to respond quickly to the needs of the customers, especially critical in the fast paced dynamic world of fashion and apparel. You have to be able to get back with your price quotes, sample turnarounds, approval submits and the like within the limited time available.
5. Manage their deadlines A CFM merchant will go one step further in not only keeping track of deadlines for various activities that they need to do, but also act as a consultant and advise the buyer of the deadlines that the buyers need to keep for activities owned by them to ensure on time delivery of goods. For example, if your order involves an accessory, which the buyer is going to develop directly with the trim supplier, as a CFM merchant, you will remind the buyer of the timelines they have for developing this trim and the latest by which they should approve the accessory with the trim supplier, so you get it in time for the order.
THE ARTICLE IS CONTRIBUTED BY ANJULI GOPALKRISHNAN, A Post Graduate in Fashion Management Studies from the National Institute of Fashion Technology Delhi (NIFT). Anjuli has spent more than a decade in the apparel industry and has worked with leading companies including JCPenney Purchasing Corporation, Tommy Hilfiger India Limited and Li & Fung. Her experience includes apparel marketing and merchandising, sourcing of home products, apparel, accessories and leather goods. Anjuli has a vast experience in sourcing for the US and EU from destinations including India, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, Vietnam, Madagascar, Pakistan, Taiwan and China.
some of the crucial things to remember while composing emails arel Write
self explanatory subject line
One cannot stress enough about the essential communication skills which are a must have for CFM merchandisers. You have to be comprehensive, precise and crystal clear in your communication with the customer. Since majority of business communication happens via email today,
before you press the send button! Because once that's done, you have no control over where your written email might land up. So be careful.
simple active sentences, instead of 'jalebi' paragraphs
all questions and then anticipate any further questions that might come up and answer those as well at one go
specific date commitments, instead of 'asap', next week kind of open ended commitments, and of course you keep them as well
all issues in one email instead of doing back and forth via several emails
using 'urgent' and 'important' for every email you write and use it sparingly for it to have any meaning.
careful whom you put in 'to' box and who in 'cc' box instead of doing a blind 'reply all'
6. Communication! Communication! Communication!
then draft a new email to avoid confusion.
angry with a customer, by all means express it in email with all your might to get it out of your system, BUT DO NOT SEND IT, instead keep it in your drafts folder. Redraft it an hour later with a cool and rational mind.
not write in bold fonts. It's simply rude and loud
not go overboard with inserts in your email with multiple colours! Stick to the two insert rule and
A good thing to know with customers is you cannot win an argument with them. Do not even attempt it. Instead approach the issues with an agreement frame of mind and look for win-win resolutions. Put your point across, but before that make the customer know that you have understood their point of view. A simple trick like, replacing the use of but with an and in your sentences can do the magic in terms of how you can resolve conflicts faster. Try it.
7. Do not forget the internal customers A CFM merchant will apply all the skills that he uses with the external customer on the all important internal customers as well. These are the people within your own organization across the departments, your own vendors, etc. Building rapport and good relationship with people around you, helps in getting your work done faster. Appreciate good work done by others in public and criticize in private. Be clear in communicating your expectations and above all be transparent and honest in your dealings.
CONDOLENCE MESSAGE We deeply express our condolence on the sad demise of Bansi Thorat who was a part of Gauge Family. Our dee pest sympathies to his family. May his soul rest in peace. From: n M/s. Mahaveer Industrial Suppliers Pvt. Ltd. n M/s. Gauge Sewing Machines & Spares n M/s. FDM India
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Industry on the
Move Rakesh Saigal Says Adieu to French Connection, Joins AllSaints Group Rakesh Saigal, who was heading the India operations of French Connection as Country Head for last five years is looking ahead to a new venture. He will be taking the position of CEO at AllSaints Spitalfields that recently opened its India office in Gurgaon. “I will be looking after the company as CEO and would be instrumental in diversifying the sourcing from India,” said Rakesh Saigal. He also said that the group is known for sourcing high- end garments. AllSaints is a British High Street retailer which produces clothing aimed towards a younger niche. The company sources all types of mens’wear, women’s wear, children's clothing, accessories and small home decorative furnishings and has over 70 stores in the UK and abroad. Allsaints established in 1994 as a menswear brand wholesaling to the likes of Harvey Nichols, Harrods and Barneys New York and Japan, solidifying a name for itself amongst style conscious shoppers as the first stop for design led fashion that never follows trends. Rakesh has earlier worked with companies like Kellwood and Gap Inc. also. Team Perfect Sourcing wishes Rakesh a best of luck for the new innings. French Buying House Times International Starts India office, Looks Out for New Vendors Times International is a French based buying house that recently started its India operations in Delhi. The company has offices all over the world including China and Hong Kong deals in upmarket basic clothes. While 80% of the product range sourced includes apparels, the rest 20% includes leather accessories, home textiles and fashion accessories. “We are mainly sourcing for the catalog companies in the EU,” said Shalini, Head of India operations at Time. While
the initial orders vary between 600-700 pieces, once the understanding is developed, the volumes go up and there are regular repeat orders. The company prefers to work with vendors who follow all the compliance norms. “We are looking for new suppliers who can offer a wide range of intimate wear and sleep wear in cotton and jersey. Though the company is sourcing products from Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, the proportion of India sourcing is comparatively high as compared to these countries. "India is our first preference and we try to regularly expand sourcing from here," she said. The India office of Time International is based in Delhi and was started earlier this year, the office is responsible for sourcing from Indian subcontinent. While currently a team of seven people is involved in the operations, the numbers are likely to go up in the coming days. Target AMC has a new MD Target, one of the biggest sourcing companies in India recently appointed Trip Wood as the MD. Trip has been associated with the company since 2006 and was working as senior group leader and was promoted as senior product manager in the company. He took over as MD after Asha Menon had left the company. New Country Manager at H&M Niklas Klingh is the new Country Manager at Hennes & Mauritz. Being associated with the H&M for a very long time, he has a vast experience on the sourcing side. Prior to his appointment in India, he was heading operations of H&M as Manager in Production Office Bucharest – Romania. We wish him best of luck for the new innings.
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CISMI forays into Jaipur- Rajasthan
ISMI, INDIA (Community of International Sewing Machine Industry, India) after spreading its influence across the sewing and apparel machine industry in Northern, Eastern, Western and Southern parts of India has now moved ahead and initiated CISMI Northern sub chapterRajasthan. The chapter opening was held at Hotel Ramada Plaza, Jaipur in presence of all sewing and apparel machine industry, various committee members and the working committee members of CISMI, INDIA. The event started of with lighting lamp ceremony wherein Harpal Singh Passricha, Founder Chairman, CISMI, Girish Gupta, Surendra Kumar & Company, Lovdev Grover, Grover Sewing Machines, SS Shukla, Sunrise Finishing, Shree Kant, Capital Apparel Pvt. Ltd, Uttam Jain, Minit Sewing Machine, Ramesh Motiani, PrathamTraders, Bhawani Singh, Jagdamba Sewing Machine and Rajaneesh Agarwal of Guruji Sewing Machines declared the opening of Northern Sub Chapter in Jaipur. The agenda of Jaipur meeting was focused on ways to further energize CISMI Northern sub chapterRajasthan and take forward the avowed aims and objectives of CISMI. “It is good to see that the vision of
Group of CISMIANs at the inauguration of Jaipur Chapter
CISMI is now being realized as in the last few months the reach, strength and network of CISMI has increased manifolds,” said Harpal Singh. He also said that now that CISMI has its roots in Jaipur also, the industry in Jaipur can raise the issues of concern,
exchange new ideas and thoughts for the betterment of the industry. During the chapter opening, the name of Girish Gupta of Surendra Kumar & Company was proposed as president of the CISMI Northern sub chapter- Rajasthan.
Eastman Cutting Training Centre Inaugurated at ALT Training College, Bangalore
LT Training College and Eastman recently came together to laid the foundation of Eastman cutting training center at the ALT Training College Bangalore. This unique training center, the second of this kind in the world, the first one being in the US would offer complete cutting room training to the apparel and other sewn product industries not only in India, but also to Sri Lanka, Bangladesh and other countries in Asia. The main objective of Eastman Training Center will be to derive a system in the cutting room, to be able to get components to an accuracy, which will dramatically increase, quality and productivity in the sewing and finishing departments. “There has been a gap in training in the pattern making and cutting section, which is the nodal point in the garment and any sewn product manufacture and thus the training centre like this was need of the hour,” said Madhu Kapoor, ALT Training College. He also informed that since
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President, Eastman India; Wade Stevenson, President, Eastman USA; Akira Hirata, President, Eastman Asia; and Madhu Kapoor, MD, ALT Training College, Bangalore
the commencement of the ALT training college foundation, around 314,000 students have completed their training and have been placed in elite positions in the industry in India. The training centre is an effort to continue the progress. Eastman that follows a history of 130 years has always believed that
if the cutting accuracy of a sewn product component is 0.1mmm, then the accuracy of a finished sewn product will be automatically 1mm, which is the tolerance of any good sewn product like readymade garments, knitwear, leather goods, car upholstery, parachute etc.
Quality and Result Oriented Testing Machines from Supertech
uality and innovation has always been the key to successful business in the apparel sector, walking on the similar lines Supertech Textile Instruments, a Delhi based company that manufactures and exports high quality of textile testing machinery and testing equipments has seen a strong growth of 300% in 2009-10. The company offers services like lab layout, calibration testing, procedures/standards, recording techniques and operation textile equipment. “Our aim is to offer quality oriented products at the committed time,” said Sanjay Chandra, MD, Supertech Textile Instruments. In a short span, the company has been able to diversify its reach all over India and in the international markets also. “Our well equipped infrastructure and motivated team of professionals has been the key to success,” said Sanjay. He further added, “We follow stringent quality norms throughout the production process and ensure that the client get a complete solutions at our company.” A comprehensive quality management system ensures that right from the procurement of the raw material till the final dispatch of the products, high quality standards are maintained. The product range at Superlab includes fabric testing, yarn testing, colour fastness, physical testing, chemical testing, consumables for textile lab and textile equipments. “Our testing range of testing machines can be used on a variety of materials like polymer material and provide high level of accuracy and efficiency,” informed Sanjay. To offer customized solution to the clients the company has a R&D department also that develops innovative range of user friendly testing machines. “Our product range is today not only popular in export houses, but also at many testing labs, textile parks and government sectors,” added Sanjay. He also mentioned that the company will expand its product range as the market is getting back on track and there is an increase in demand.
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Sanjay Chandra, MD, Supertech Textile Instruments
The company offers after sales service on every product and the services are available in almost all major textile hubs like Delhi, Bangalore and Kolkata. Some of the clients that the company is working with includes Alok Apparels, Bannari Amman, Himatsingka Seide, JJ Exports, NIFT, Rana polycot, etc.
Technology offered by Supertech The washing fastness test that is used to determine the colour fastness to wash as per international standards has many advantages. It is easy to operate and has the double wall structure with 6/8/12 jars and 550 ml each. Also, it is available in 4\6 jars of 1200 ml model. Tensile strength- Manual/Digital machine with floor model and capacity up to 1000 kg is used by many companies for checking the strength of fabric, leas and for seam strength and slippage.
Negi Sign Systems Geared to Offer Complete Solution in Digital Printing Looks forward to Achieve 100% Growth
Digital Textile printing is a term that is used to describe the process of inkjet printing on fabric. According to a survey, between 2000 and 2009, digitally printed textile output increased by 400% and reached up to 95 million square metres. It is predicted that in the next decade it will account for 10% of the global market. “The market demand for digital textile machine will go up further as the boom in the sector is yet to come,” said Vijay Kandari, Negi Sign Systems, while sharing his views on the scope for digital textile printing in India. With a group turnover of around Rs 50 cr, the company is looking ahead to see a growth of around 100% in the coming year.
“ With the digital printing making important place in shelves of retailer in both the export and domestic market, inks getting affordable, the digital printing sector is poised for a strong growth,” reasoned RK Mishra, who is handling the sales and marketing of digital printers. He also predicted that four years down the line the market for digital printing will set new records. Negi Sign systems that entered into the market in 1995, offers a wide range of solutions focusing on meeting the needs of established digital printers, screen printers, sign makers and other new entrants to digital printing market. The types of digital printing have been categorized as either direct printing or dye sublimation and transfer. “The area of dye sublimation is not as widely
Viper TX Machine Buy Mutoh Showcased at One of the Fairs
(L-R) GS Negi, Kenji Takahashi, from Mutoh Industries Ltd., Vijay Khandari and RK Mishra
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used as inkjet, but is making gains with changes in technology that are focusing on larger sizes, better productivity and improved value,” averred GS Negi, Director, Negi Sign Systems. “As one of the leading suppliers of digital wide format printers we are able to offer outstanding priceperformance value while maintaining our on going technology edge,” added Negi. Negi Sign Systems also develops and supplies quality stateof-the-art after market materials to maximize equipment performance and output. Headquartered in Mumbai, Negi Sign Systems is having branch offices in Delhi, Kolkata, Chennai and Bangalore. The company offers a strong after sales service as it ensures fast service and back up to clients,” informed Vijay. The company is planning to start a new demo centers in Mumbai, Surat, Ahmedabad and Bangalore. “The aim is to offer completely integrated systems to the clients and become a one stop solution,” said Negi. The group feels that by offering integrated solutions the customers will also get benefit in terms of time and money saving. “We are now looking at adding inks also to our range as this completes the supply chain, while earlier the inks were very expensive, the price will considerably go down in the coming years.” Talking about certain myths about digital printing machines in the market, Vijay said, “It is a myth that four colour printers cannot impart good results, though the fact of matter is that most of the designs are achieved by four colour printers, the eight colour printers are only required for very intricate designing. “The four colour printers will dominate the market demand in coming days,” said Negi.
The aim is to offer completely integrated systems to the clients and become a one stop solution” –GS Negi
“The Viper Xtreme by Negi is a well accepted product in the market because of its high speed with good price range,” added Mishra. He also mentioned that if one machine is installed then the ROI is approximately six months. The Mutoh Viper-TX/Viper Xtreme is specifically suited to those clients who have big volumes and are looking a machine which can print even on low GSM fabrics without the help of adhesive belt by using water-based Reactive/disperse dye. The Mutoh Viper digital printer exists in three models: 65” (1653 mm), 90” (2280 mm) and 100”(2546mm) reaches a print width up to 1643 mm (65” model), 2250 mm (90” model) and 2540mm (100”model) . The Viper Xtreme incorporates eight 360 nozzles/colour piezo-electric dropon-demand inkjet heads allowing high volume printing (up to 76 m²/h).
he indications reveal that are such that rupee might still go up and reach 43 levels. Approximately, half a billion dollars have come to India in the last one week and even RBI is not sure how to proceed. Last time, when such a situation arose, it controlled the flow of dollar; but now everybody is confused. The roll-back of both the duty drawback and a special incentive of 2% have dented the business potential of apparel exporters. Many in the industry feel that the exporters should look at options like packing credit against export order in dollar terms so that the fluctuation of rupee against dollar will not affect the outcome of the business. At the same time, it is predicted that the rupee will slowly depreciate against dollar as it is currently fixed at 44.80, which is 80 paisa less than current levels for January in the forward market. “We are trampled upon from all corners. The reduction in duty drawback rates, escalating yarn prices and its dwindling availability in domestic market, and now the rupee appreciation are troubling us so much,” said Tirupur Exporters’ Association President and Poppy Group managing director A Sakthivel. He said that since the government is not interested in fixing the price of rupee, it can at least restrict the flow of FII money into India or put some restriction like minimum one-year lock-in period for FII investments. It is not the first time that the industry has come across such a problem, however, while some companies worked on ways to solve the issue. For instance some companies started dealing in rupees only whereas some of them went for forward covers so that they did not lose money even if the extra profits were being missed out. Sakthivel further added, “The government should look at postponing shipment of raw cotton till January 2011 and ban yarn exports as the domestic needs are still to be met. The regular up and downs in the export segment has not only affected the growth but also, dampen the spirit of export community who has been facing new challenges everyday. There is a need to be more cautious about the rapidly changing market situation and cover products on a month-to-month basis to escape all uncertainties. The yarn manufacturers said that to a large extent, they have not been impacted by the rupee appreciation, though the margins have been hit. In the vague of increasing yarn prices, the garment exports have already faced a slump, if the same would continue for a long time in the near future the situation will get even worst.
Appreciation of Concerns
Along with the available challenges like yarn and raw material prices, labour issues, the industry has now another challenge to counter as appreciation of the rupee against the US dollar has hit India’s textile exporters. The industry is cornered with tough situation from all sides now as recently the government announced reduction in duty drawback rates also. Following heavy rush of foreign institutional investors (FIIs) to India, the rupee has appreciated by 6.3% in the last two months. The rupee was ruling around 47 per dollar two months ago, and it breached below 44 and closed at 44 levels recently..
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d enim A tren d s
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s the US and EU economies are slowly getting out of the recession mode, denim is again in big demand. This is evident in the entire supply chain of denim as most of the denim mills are full of orders and the garment exporters are trying to find new ways to speed up their shipments and jeans. The US market has seen an increase of about 16% in the imports of denim jeans in the first half of 2010 as compared to the last year. This portends well for the denim industry and it also reflects the ability of denim as a product to constantly reinvent and metamorphose itself. For the last two years, when most of the fashion apparel sales were hit, denim stood its ground simply because it was the only category, which the consumers felt could be used on multiple social occasions, hence reducing their overall expenditures in recessionary times. Now that the market is getting better, denim is alluring a host of fabrics, styles and finishes to chose from and splurge on.
The article is contributed by Sandeep Agarwal, a seasoned professional who has worked in the textile industry for over 16 years (specially the DENIM Industry). He has worked in various capacities in the Indian Denim industry and was working as Vice-President (Marketing) at Malwa Industries. He is also running a denim website www.denimsandjeans.com.
1. Trends related to denim fabrics. 2. Trends related to style and silhouettes 3. Trends related to finishing.
Trends in Denim Fabrics Some of the previous trends related to denim fabrics have continued whereas some new trends can be seen:
using coloured weft yarns. This combination effectively either darkens the fabric (without needing to go for deeper dyeing) or gives interesting hue to the fabrics after wash with colors ‘peeping’ from the reverse of the fabric.
• Dark and Super Dark denims have been going strong for last few years and is still in vogue. The main advantage of these denim fabrics is that the designers can play around with a number of washes and effects using these fabrics. Brands like G-Star - who want to give it raw and dark denims are the first choice.
• Colored Denims: Colours are the pick for the Spring/ Summer 2011 season. A hue of colors are in demand by the brands and the mills, which have the flexibility to provide a wide variety of colours.
• Super Stretch is very popular in the market. Starting from the women’s categories and moving on to children’s and now men’s , stretch denim seems to be omnipresent. However, the difference is that Super Stretches –fabrics with a stretchability of over 30% are more in demand. These fabrics need to have a strong recovery i.e the original shape of the fabric has to be recovered with a ‘snap back’ so that the garments do not go out of shape on high pressure areas like knees, etc.
Trends in silhouettes are very important as they help to define the types of fabrics to be used and washing to be done on the garments. They are more important for the ladies’ denim as this segment is the one that witnesses new styles coming up every season.
• Subtle Slubs: Flat finishes on the denim have been there for a long time. However, being more subtle is the trend with slubs getting milder and finishes getting flatter. • Coatings: Denim fabrics coated in various colors (usually dark) are very popular. The coating enables a variety of treatments and processing to be done at the garment state. Shiny coating on the fabrics is a new and interesting development.
Trends in Silhouettes and Styles
• Skinnies -> Jeggings: Skinny denims have been going strong for quite some time. It has been the most trendy denim style for women’s denim in the last three years. However, instead of giving way to loser fits, they have evolved further into ‘Jeggings’meaning leggings made of denim. This is probably the tightest fit available for women and despite all predictions of failure, this is
getting to be the most popular trend in women’s denim. Popularity of jeggings is causing innovation in fabrics too. Lighter weight denim fabrics with about 9oz or lesser in super stretches are becoming a highly demanded product so that it can be used to make comfortable fitting jeggings. Even knitted denim(fabrics made from indigo yarn) and psuedo denim (imitation denim ) is witnessing a spurge in demand due to this trend.
It would be interesting to see new trends in denim are emerging which will define the denim productions in Fall 2010 and Spring/ Summer 2011. We can divide these trends in three broad categories -
• Men’s Skinny: Though it is hard to believe, men’s skinny jeans are a favourite this fall. Skinny jeans is ruling the roost and leaves no segment untouched with men’s
Men's Skinny Jeans
skinny jeans (with and without stretch). Levi’s, Calvin Klein , Topman and many other brands have introduced men’s skinny pieces.
Trend in Jeggings
• Color Weft Yarns: Some important mills around the world have come out with fabrics
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• Double Denim: Double denim means pairing a denim jeans or skirt or shorts with a denim shirt or jacket. It has been a strict no no for most of the time that denim has been around. Only the most brave have tried this combination. Trend in Double Denim Stockholm Streetstyle
Denim stands out from other fabrics and the difference is stark at the last stage of denim production cycle i.e finishing and washing. There is no other fabric which is open to such a wide variety of washes, finishes, harsh treatments and embellishments like in as denim. A nice finishing given to denim can give life to an otherwise dead fabric and vice versa. • Distressing and vintage looks: Distressing of denim has been there for some time and it is not going anywhere soon. We are looking at new combinations with distressed looks like the Skinny Distressed Jeans.
However, with a number of international brands like Ralph Lauren and Chloe displaying double denim on catwalks and with many celebrities like David Beckham endorsing it, the trend has got a new life. However, this trend is not easy to carry off. It requires a careful mix of denim materials (light and heavy weights), different washes and colours to produce a presentable look. • Denim Trousers: Specially affecting the women’s denim silhouettes, tailored looks with pleats and trouser pockets are in. These classically tailored pants are more dress pant than casual jean and more comfortable and versatile too. Perfect for work than party.
Trends in Denim Finishing
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• Patchworks and Panels: Patchwork jeans were popular in the 60s. They have become big again after style icons like Cameroon Diaz , Nicole Ritchie, etc., came out in them. Patches can be put up as studs on the inner side of the jeans (backing up the rips) or simply patched up on the exterior. Either way, patches provide cool looks and some additional strength to the jeans specially where it is combined with a distressed look. A refined version of patching is ‘Panelling’. A panel of different fabrics (often stretch jersey fabrics) is used along with denim on the legs brings out some great looks . • Acid washes : The 80’ acid wash trend is back and we see all kinds of grunge looks being given by
acid washing. However, the looks are not bold and in your face types –but more subdued and subtle patchy look. • Printed looks: Brands like J Brand have collaborated with designers to release special edition of printed collections. Prints range from tribal inspired, to abstract or to the really daring, leopard print. Many other brands are following suit. • Waxed Denim: Do you like leather trousers or jackets? What if the leather touch and feel can be incorporated in denims with waxing? Yes, waxed denim is a niche trend for the denim connoisseurs. Famous denim brands like J Brand , Current / Elliot , Victoria Beckham have come out with their waxed denim editions – often combining the look with Jeggings . • 3D Resins: Resin (Formaldehyde free) is being used for achieving 3D effect and rigid look. This process can be done by spraying or dipping the garments in to Resin, Catalyst, Silicone & PU solution in right combination according to the fabric strength and desired effect needed. The resin application provides permanent 3D whiskers or other uneven looks to the garment. This look is getting so popular that the laundries are finding it difficult to match up to the demand. There is no end to innovation in denim and we see new trends being thrown up every few months. Designers work overtime to come out with something really fresh and interesting and experiment with crazy ideas like frying denim along with vegetables to get a new look !! . This experiment by a UK based designer may not actually commercialize, but it shows the strength of denim has perhaps the ‘THE MOST INNOVATIVE FABRIC EVER’.
Buyers from Latin American Countries Mark the Success 2000 exhibitors from 28 states of India, 97,000 sq. mtrs covered space, 6,000 buyers from 30 countries, more than 850 product lines, styles and presence from more than 350 buying agents, marked the success of IHGF (Indian Handicrafts and Gift Fair). The fair that was held just after the Common Wealth Games saw buyers from not only the traditional markets like the US and EU, but from Latin American and ASEAN like Argentina, Kuwait, Spain, Turkey and Germany.
FAIR & EVENTS
EPCH Organizes 30th Edition of Indian Handicrafts and Gifts Fair
he fair started of with the opening ceremony wherein SS Gupta, Development Commissioner Handicrafts inaugurated the fair. While addressing the participants and visitors, he said, “It is important that exporters work towards development of new product range and ensure following of compliance norms as it helps in overall growth.” Gupta also lauded the role of EPCH in setting up the Common Facility Centres (CFCs) and clusters all over handicrafts pockets of the country. Abdul Azim, President of Fair Reception Committee, also welcomed the buyers and asked them to see the creative and innovative products that were displayed in the show. Products on display included gifts items, decorative, utility items like houseware, homeware, kitchenware, bathroom ware, garments, dresses, furnishing, fabrics, flooring, decorative lightings, cutlery, crockery, furniture accessories, fashion items, jewellery and accessories, etc. The products are made out of raw material base like wood, metal, cane & bamboo, textiles, natural fibres, artificial fibres, wool, silk, jute, coir, stones, animal bye products, terracotta and lacquer. The 30th edition of the fair was considered to be good by most of the exhibitors and participants. “The specialty of this fair is that the products on display are of all quality and variety, moreover, the range available is for high, middle and lower end” said Tim Exner, Exner Gmbh, an importer from Germany who is looking at increasing sourcing from India. He further added, “The unique feature of Indian product range is that they are still hand crafted and machines are used only for finishing purposes.” “We prefer sourcing from India as the product range is innovative, people have good communication skills and are easy to work with,” said Gokhan Selmon,
SS Gupta, DC (Handicrafts) enlightening the lamp of 30th IHGF along with Raj Kumar Malhotra, Chairman, EPCH, Lekh Raj Maheshwari, Vice Chairman, EPCH and Ravi K.Passi, Member, EPCH
Trio Home, a wholesaler from Turkey who was looking to source bed linen from India. “We are already sourcing from China and other Asian countries, however, we plan to increase sourcing from India in the coming days. Mariko a Delhi based export house displayed a wide range of home textiles and apparels. “Our ecofriendly range of home furnishings attracted many buyers and there were several enquiries for it,” said Uday from Mariko. The HHEC stall at the show had products like passport bags, paintings, holders made by nomads situated all over India. “HHEC has tied up with several NGO’s to offer a versatile range of India’s crafts,” said Nirmal Sinha, Chairman Cum MD, HHEC. The products at HHEC stall received very encouraging response at the fair. In the textile section, many companies showcased cushion covers with value additions like aari work, beads, tufting, hand embroidery, chikan work. “We have used varied applications and have done value additions on knitted, silk and
SS Gupta, Development Commissioner (Handicrafts) sharing the government plans or addressing the audience
cotton fabrics,” said Gaurav Talwar, Sunrise Home Concepts, a Noida based export house. Journalists representing trade magazines from countries of Central Asia, Latin America, Africa and ASEAN also visited the fair to see the range and quality of products on display. Agents from leading buying houses like Sri Abhishek Merchandising, Li & Fung and William-e-Connor also visited the show to source.
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FAIR & EVENTS
Some snapshots from IHGF, 2010
EPCH SHARES ITS ROAD MAP FOR 2011
(From Left) Timm Exner, Sales, Exner GmbH with his associates from Germany
Raj Kumar Malhotra, Chairman, EPCH
Rakesh Kumar, Executive Director, EPCH
hile highlighting the vision of EPCH Raj Kumar Malhotra, Chairman, EPCH said, “After the success of product specific fairs like furniture fair and jewellery fair, we are now geared to launch more product specific fairs so that buyers can easily source their specific requirements.” “We are targeting export target of Rs10, 000 cr for the year 2011 and we are optimistic that we will attain it,” added Malhotra. Seeing the increasing demand for eco friendly products in the handicrafts sector, the council will organize workshops and training forums for the exporters so that they can work on environment friendly products. Rakesh Kumar, Executive Director, EPCH, while sharing the roadmap of council said, “The council will be working towards development of the handicraft sector in four steps, i.e capacity building, design and product development, international marketing and infrastructure development.” He explained that under this process, the artisans at the grassroots level will be trained on how to produce goods of international quality with unique packaging and presentation. Under the design and product development project, artisans and exporters will be trained on how to produce innovative products regularly. “To promote the sector, EPCH would organize fairs in India and abroad, in fact, Made in India show is also in pipeline,” informed Kumar. He also mentioned that a proposal for setting up warehouses has already been submitted to the Ministry and continuous efforts are made to promote the handicrafts sector in countries where the per capita income is high and the inclination for Indian goods is prevalent. “Latin American countries like Venenzuela, Uruguay, Argentina and Chile are potential markets and we are exploring it,” said Kumar. The Handicrafts exports during the 2009-10 amounted to Rs. 8178 crores as against Rs. 8183 crores in the previous year. Export had actually increased by 6.55% in rupee terms. During these six months period of the year 2010-11, handicrafts exports have been of the order of Rs. 4753 crore as against Rs. 4075 crore in the previous year. During this six months period, the export have risen by 17% over the last year.
(L-R) Amit Lodha, Director, Hitesh Lodha and Gaurav Bhagat from Ramesh Flowers Pvt. Ltd. displaying their wide range
Ravi K. Passi, Owner, R.K. Arts at his mart
Gaurav Talwar, Partner, Sunrise Home Concepts showcasing value added cushion designs
Uday Sehgal, Mariko seen with his complete range of apparel and home textiles
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FAIR & EVENTS
Technology Suppliers Gather in Mumbai after Seven Years at Gartexma Exhibition
Decision Makers Visit Makes the Show a Success Mumbai, the Western part of India that includes regions like Mumbai, Surat, Ahmedabad, Bhiwandi, Solapur, etc have always been important centres for textiles and home furnishings. Over the last few years, more than 100 processing units and 30,000 garment units have come up in and around Mumbai. Already, 1200 export oriented units are registered with AEPC and are from Gujarat and Maharastra. However, in the last seven years, an exclusive b2b show for technology was missing. Seeing the potential of these areas, GARTEXMA, the Garment and Textile Machinery & Accessories Show was organized for the first time in Mumbai, from 10-12 October, 2010 at the Bombay Exhibition Center, Goregaon, Mumbai. Team Perfect Sourcing captured interesting insights about the latest technology showcased at the fair.
he show saw participation from various sewing, embroidery, digital printing, spare parts, finishing, processing, knitting, cutting, digital printing and CAD/ CAM suppliers. The fair started of with the opening ceremony wherein veterans from the industry like Sunder Belani, Ramsons India, Harpal Singh Passricha, Navyug Sewing Machine, ML Jain, Gauge Sewing Machine & Spares, Madhu Kapoor, ALT, Viraf Turel, EH Turel & Co., Manjit Singh Saini, Paramount Instruments, Ram Sareen, Tukatech, Deipak Doshi, Imperial Sewing Machines, James Broux, GMM and Manjeet Singh Bakshi inaugurated the show.
Prashant Agarwal, MD, Bombay Rayon and Aman Agarwal, Executive Vice Chairman from Bombay Rayon were the Guest of Honour at the show. “It is indeed a pleasure to see that after a long time an exhibition for technology has organized in Mumbai, with the growing competition in the global market, it has become pertinent to upgrade the technology regularly,” said Prashant. “I would like to thank the European countries that have joined the show and wish them best of luck said,” James Broux, GMM, who came specially from Germany to see and promote the latest technology. “This is the first technology show in Mumbai happening after seven years and we are optimistic about
Prashant Agarwal, MD, BRFL, inaugurating GARTEXMA, Mumbai seen along with Aman Agarwal, H.S. Pasricha, Ram Sareen, Madhu Kapoor & Viraf Turel
(L-R) Gautam Nair, Matrix Clothing, Sunder Belani, Ramsons, Virender Uppal, Richa & Co., Hari Kapoor, Allied Export, H.S. Passricha, Navyug, Manjeet S. Bakshi, Gartexma and M.L. Jain, Gauge Sewing machine gather at Ramsons stall
(L-R) H.M. Lee, MD and James Ahn, Sales Director, Sunstar at their stall SWF
Samuel Gerber (center), CEO, espritech GmbH posing at European Pavilion aling with Indian associates
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getting new clients and a good response,” said Harpal Singh Passricha, Founder Chairman, CISMI, India. “We had always dreamed of a show that was the industry’s show and we are happy to see that finally a show has arrived,” said Viraf Turel, from EH Turel & Company. The first day, being a Sunday saw a good traffic of visitors from Mumbai and nearby areas like Surat, Bhiwandi and Ahmedabad. The duo of Prashant and Aman Agarwal from Bombay Rayon took the complete round of fair to contemplate the latest technology available at the show and appreciated the versatile technology available at all the corners. “We have seen a good number of visitors at the show and have booked several orders also,” said Manjit Singh Saini, CEO, ED, Paramount Instruments Pvt Ltd. Gartexma saw a good encouragement and support from esteemed associations like AEPC (Apparel Export Promotion Council), CMAI (Clothing Manufacturers Association of India), CSMA (China Sewing Machine Association) and CISMI (Community of Sewing Machine Industry India). “The first day of the show proved to be particularly good as we have got a good number of enquiries and potential visitors have come to the show,” said Manoj Tulsani, Four Square Threads, the company showcased a wide range of threads that feels like viscose, have a super soft luster and can improve production. “The thread can do 3 lakh stitches per shift and is specially developed for machines with 1500 rpm,” added Manoj. The company can offer 500 colours in threads. On the second day, the fair saw visitation from top exporters of the country like Premal Udani, Kay Tee Exports, Virender Uppal, Richa & Co., Lalit Thukral, Maharana of India, Hari Kapoor, Allied Exports, Gaurav Poddar, Siyaram’s, Gautam Nair, Matrix Clothing and many more. In fact, delegates from AEPC and CMAI like Vimal Kirti Singh also visited the show and
appreciated the way show was organized. “It is good to see that India has a versatile range of technology that can help us in being competitive and move aggressively towards fast growth,” said Premal Udani. One of the interesting aspects of the show was the International pavilion wherein companies from Switzerland, Singapore and Netherlands were seen with latest technology. EspriTech, a company based in Switzerland gave presentation on its range of folding, packaging, stacking machines for bed linen, curtains, blankets, duvet covers and other flat product - woven, non woven, non-elastic pieces. “We have a good client base in India and now look forward to diversify it as India is fast becoming an important player of textiles in both export and international market,” said Samuel Gerber, CEO, EspriTech. The machines are categorized as white, red, black, white opal, green opal, black opal and Black Onyx. “The folding machine is able to work up various material types including cotton, sateen, mixture fabric, polyester/cotton and flannel,” added Samuel. Other exhibitors from the fair included companies like Polypack, Schonenberger, Optimus, Impulsa and Q Spread. Gauge Sewing Machine and Spares, one of the biggest stalls at the fair showcased a wide range of sewing machine and spare part brands. In fact, the company brought some new technologies also at the show from Turkey called Newtech. On being asked about the response of the show, ML Jain said, “The show has proved out to be good as we have seen many of the owners coming here and discussing the deals and ordering machines and this has led the show to be a success.” The President of FDM, Zhang Min who came to the show said, “The fair has been organized in a good way, we have got good enquiries and look forward to some more editions of Gartexma,” said Zhang. With a present output of 1,20,000 computerized single needle lockstitch sewing machine; 3,00,000 sets of clutch motor
(R-L) Deipak Doshi, MD, Imperial Sewing Machine Pvt. Ltd., Fung David, Sales Director, Mark Chu Kwang Ti, Sales Engineer, Singapore Machinery Co. Pte. Ltd. at Imperial Stall displaying the SmartMRT Machine
(L-R) Harit Sharma, Regional Head – South (Marketing & Operations), Amit Narang, MD, Mohit Narang, Director-Operations, STI Apparel Automation Pvt. Ltd. at their stall
Veeru Maknur, Sales Manager India, Vibemac displaying the automatic pocket designing machine with loader and stacker, double color technology at the Turel Group Stall
Sanjay Seth, Touch (in blue) with his team at his stall
(L-R) Sumit Ahuja, Sales Manager, Neeraj Kapoor, Sales Head, Vivek Shukla, Marketing Head, Mimaki Kanphor and Digvijay Giri, Wow Impressions Pvt. Ltd.
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Manpreet Singh Walia, Country Manager, Focus Garment Tech Pte. Ltd., with his principle
Frank He, Marketing Representative, Zhejiang New Jack Sewing Machine Co., Ltd. with Syed Abdul Azeez, ED, India Agencies showcasing various machine at their stall
(Top left) Pankaj Mirani, Sales Manager with the visitor and Nitin Kumar at Apsom Infotex Ltd.
(L-R) Radhesh Kagzi, President, Creative Lifestyles Pvt. Ltd. with Vishal Sher, Director, Studio Next Inc.
Shashi Srivastava, GM, Simran Technologies Pvt. Ltd. posing for Perfect Sourcing
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and 60,00,000 sets of household sewing machine motor, FDM exports 90% of its production to the US, EU, Middle East and South East Asia, which marks its presence in more than 70 countries globally. Ramsons India, one of the leading players in washing and drying displayed a wide range which included the Vertostar series, laundry dry cleaning machines, the Ramsons Tumble Dryers - Front Loading, Open Pocket and Heavy Duty machines. “We have seen potential customers visiting the show, even though the fair is happening for the first time it has been organized well,” said Sunder Belani, MD, Ramsons India. Some of the stalls that remained crowded with visitors was Benz Embroidery and Touch, while Benz showcased the latest machinery for embroidery, Touch displayed the non woven bag making machine, which is in high demand because of the ban on polybags. Among other embroidery suppliers were SWF that showcased GE series that is adapted with new colour change system, multi-head operation box and minimized multi-speed drop range. “ In 2009, 40% of the market share was in India and even in the presence of 200 machine suppliers, the demand existed, however, in 2010, the demand for embroidery machines has considerably gone down,” said HM Lee, MD, SWF. Veeru Maknur from Vibemac while talking about the fair said “The fair has been good, we have received good response from places like Ahmedabad.” The company got a good response for double colour technology. In digital printing field, players like Mimaki, Apsom Infotex and Negi Sign Sytems were seen at the show. “We would say that the fair has been an average show, no doubt the visitors, who came at the show were the owners and took the decision, but it could have been better if the traffic was more,” said Neeraj, Sales Head, Mimaki Kanphor. The company displayed TX-400 machine at the show which was
represented by the company Wow Immpressions Pvt. Ltd. Negi Sign systems that displayed its latest technology reported a good response at the show. The company shared that it would soon start a demo centre in Bangalore and offer integrated solutions to its clients. “We would now like to offer a complete range to our clients from inks to demo centers to complete digital printing solutions,” said GS Negi, Director, Negi Sign Systems. Coming on to some other key suppliers at the show was Imperial Sewing Machines stall that showcased a number of brands like Focus Garment Tech Pte Ltd and Smart MRT that attracted many visitors at the show. The company displayed, the US – 100EZ, the thread trimmer machine, which has a blade plated with Titanium and is Made in Taiwan, it has a suction power adjustable device. Also, the interesting Nisho NH Series of Industrial Iron and Ironing Table was seen. Deipak Doshi, Director, Imperial Sewing Machine said, “The show has created satisfactory response, a good number of enquiries were generated, we now look forward to good business.” SmartMRT, a unit production hanger system enables the production line to be designed and installed according to the size of the production space. “The system has the bracket and production line use high quality non rust stainless steel and aluminum material. Moreover, the special power movement design keeps the noise at minimum level on the delivery system and at the same time saves electricity. “The USP of the machine is its capability to automatically deliver a piece of cloth, instead of bundles to a target work station saving a lot of time and effort,” said Fung David, Sales Director, Smart Mrt. Various CAD/CAM suppliers like Tukatech and Studio Next were also seen at the show. Loiva also attracted many visitors at its stall. Overall, the show was rated to be good and saw an encouraging response from the visitors and participants.
Industry Night Organized By CISMI and Gartexma in Mumbai Manoj Tulsani (Center), Red Square Enterprises with his team at their stall
Change in Attitude and Transparency the need of hour
(2nd from Left) R.K. Mishra, G.S. Negi and Vijay Kandhari, Negi Sign Systems and Supplies Co. with their team
From Right Vikram Rathode, Rathode Beads with one of his clients
he organizers of Gartexma and Community of Sewing Machine Industry India(CISMI) organized an interactive Industry night at the Leela Kempinski, Mumbai soon after the exhibition. The event that started of with a panel discussion on the challenges in the sewing and apparel industry of India saw a good visitation from machinery suppliers, exporters, manufacturers from the domestic market. The motto of the event was to discuss about the challenges and opportunities in the Indian textile and apparel sector. The discussion was carried forward by panelist, which included Rajesh Masand, Vice President, CMAI, Madhu Kapoor, MD, ALT, Premal Udani, Chairman, Apparel Export Promotion Council, Ashesh Amin, Executive Director at SKNL, AB Joshi, Commissioner of Textiles, Mumbai and Ram Sareen, CEO, Tukatech. The discussion started of when Rajesh Masand raised an important question about the competitiveness of Indian textile industry which gets affected because of the high duty drawback rates on high quality machines. “It is quite unfortunate that the industry has to pay higher for in built motors which help in power saving,” he said. On this, AB Joshi assured that the matter would be taken up to the Ministry for analysis and a solution to the problem will be considered. Joshi also said that Indian textile and apparel industry is poised for a strong growth, however, there is an urgent need to work on efficiencies and high productivity levels so that India can offer value for money. Another ar ea of discussion was opening of new institutes and colleges that can impart practical knowledge about intricacies of manufacturing. “There is an urgent need in the industry to get rid of the ‘chalta hai’ attitude that deteriorates the brand image of India,” suggested Udani. The discussion took an interesting turn when Ram Sareen gave live example on how the loopholes affect the performance of the industry. “The biggest hurdle is that industry follows what they see not what they listen, it is pivotal that the industry works in a professional manner and work towards attaining high quality standards,” said Ram. James Broux from GMM pointed out and asked speakers on why is transparency an issue in the industry and a foreign associate faces problem dealing with Indian vendors.
Veeru Maknur receiving award for Best Innovation with Viraf Turel and EH Turel team
Exporters from all over India like Prashant Agarwal, Bombay Rayon, Virender Uppal, Richa & Co, Hari Kapoor, Allied Exports, Gautam Nair, Matrix Clothing, Lalit Thukral, Maharana of India and many more marked their presence at the show and made the discussion interesting by discussing some more relevant issues about the industry. The discussion was followed by award ceremony by CISMI to felicitate the veterans of the industry. Madhu Kapoor received CISMI Lifetime Achievement Award for his dedicated contribution to the apparel and textile industry for more than three decades. Among other awardees was Swarn Singh Saini from Paramount Instruments, who received CISMI Testing Tech Excellence Award, Ram Sareen got CISMI Super Achiever Excellence Award, Vinod Krishnamurthy received the award for bringing excellence in digital printing technology. Premal Udani appreciated the concept of Industry Night and ensured that such interactions will be conducted for the betterment of industry in the long run.
ML Jain, Managing Director, Gauge Sewing Machines & Spares giving the award to Jignesh Shah, Benz Embroidery Services for Best display.
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sh Award from AB Jo me Achievement India eiving CISMI Lifeti MI rec CIS or n, po Ka ma u air dh Ma der Ch Passricha, Foun Premal Udani, HS
CISMI Acknowledgement of Support award given to Deepti and Gagan Marwah from Perfect Sourcing
ing CISMI H.S Passricha giv
Award to Premal
Udani during the
James Broux, CEO, GMM discussing important issues with panel
(L-R) Virender Ch opra, MD, Tarsha Ex Jones and Viren der Uppal, MD, Ric ports, Jiten Lakhani, ED, Jinny & ha & Co.
Ram Sareen awarded with CISMI Super Achiever Excellence Award from HS Passricha and AB Joshi
CISMI Testing Te ch Excellence Aw ard received by Sw and his son Manje arn Singh Saini et Singh Saini fro m Paramount Ins truments
(L-R) Sunder Belani, Ram Sareen, AB Joshi, Premal Udani, Madhu Kapoor, Asheesh Amin, and Rajesh Masand Seen on the Dias
OCTOBER 2010 n perfectsourcing
FAIR & EVENTS
Kingpins, an Exclusive Denim Show
to be Organized in India
Kingpins is b2b show for denims, which is known for its serious business environment and exclusivity and termed as boutique jean supply chain event. It is perhaps the only denim show where both exhibitors and visitors can attend on invitation only. Usually held twice a year in cities like Los Angeles, Shanghai and Hong Kong, the show is all set to hit the Indian boundaries early next year. Team Perfect Sourcing got into conversation with Andrew M Olah, Founder, Kingpins New York who shared his vision of Kingpins and plans for the upcoming edition in India.
he show is everything about jeans, denim, garment dyeing, cotton and fibers. “The show's goal has been to attract the leaders in the global chain from all parts of the world,” said Andrew. The show in India would see participation from the complete supply chain of denims like denim mills, the best piece dyed producers, the best chemical companies, industrial laundries, sewing factories, hardware companies and label manufacturers. “Kingpins specializes in showcasing causal wear and invite global players, who are leaders in their fields so that anyone who produces a casual wear garment will find innovation at our show,” averred Andrew. Top premium denim brands, retailers, local buying houses are expected to be invited at the India show. “In India, also we plan to bring two shows every year, one for the spring/summer and one for the Autumn/Winter.” he asserted. He also said that since India is a growing economy and is a big consumer of denim and denim fabric that is why a show was planned in India. “While the first show is being planned in Bangalore, the second show is likely to be held in Delhi,” added Andrew. The show will cover whole of South Asia
perfectsourcing n OCTOBER 2010
Andrew M Olah
and only about 20-25 companies from the denim supply chain are expected to be invited from India, Pakistan, Sri Lanka and Bangladesh. On being asked how is the show different and unique, Andrew said that there are number of ways that makes Kingpins unique. For instance, no one can attend Kingpins unless they are invited. “We closely monitor the visitors and invitees, in fact, this is a regular exercise for our company, because we focus on getting potential buyers for our exhibitors and not increasing the traffic of visitors” he added. The original name for the show was to be "Leaders" as organizers always wanted to bring the best suppliers in the chosen area. “We liked the idea of having exhibitors who not only excel at what they do, but lead
in their category of product,” asserted Andrew. “We represented Legler (the first denim mill in Europe) from Italy for 25 years and have worked for Kurabo for over 20 years,” he added. The market’s support of the show has been one of the most important features as the show gets sponsorships from companies like Invista (Lycra). “The relationships generated with the buyers over last few decades enable us to draw them to our shows,” said Andrew. Kingpins, New York edition that was held in July saw participation from 25 exhibitors from the denim supply chain around the world including companies like Cone Denim, Kurabo , Tavex, Jeanologia, etc. Visitors included over 150 denim brands, retailers and stores including Evisu, Polo, Ann Taylor, American Eagle, Club Monaco, Lands End, Gap, etc. Another interesting aspect about the show is the relaxing environment that the show offers. “We absolutely believe that a comfortable environment is created for both exhibitors and customers, unlike the other shows who charge for water or a sandwich, we feed and serve everyone, which creates a kind peace and calmness to our exhibition,” said Andrew. A party is always organized at the end of first day of the show so that the visitors and participant can interact with each other. Andrew, who runs a 51 year old textile agency company specializes in the jeans industry and offers consultancy to various companies in marketing and educational capacity. The first Kingpins show was held in an art gallery in Soho, in July 2004. “Our mission is to have excellent exhibitors present at the show so that the customers can rely on the fact that if an exhibitor is at Kingpins they know they are excellent at what they do,” concluded Andrew.