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Lovingly decorated and topped with a star, this Christmas tree looks good enough to eat – which is lucky, as it’s made from Belgian dark chocolate with a rich salted caramel centre.

Welc ome t o



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magazine. com PERFECT LAST-MINUTE GIFT ALERT! Give the year-long gift of great recipes, expert restaurant recommendations and inspired travel ideas with an O magazine subscription. Check out our great deal on page 88.

Mariah Carey, avocado baubles, Quality Street green triangles... These are a few of my favourite (Christmas) things. These, and some other traditions – decking out the tree on 1 December (come rain or shine, or snow); testing the limits of online gift shopping delivery dates (I like the sense of peril); and wrapping all the presents into the wee hours on Christmas Eve while watching Elf on repeat – I will not compromise on. But one thing I like to do on the big day, and throughout the festive period, is flex my cooking and hosting skills. I like to experiment, try new things and really push the (gingerbread) boat out. And I know you lovely readers are just the same. Sure, you’ll have your favourites – there’s only one way to do cauliflower cheese in my house, for example, and that’s my way – but with so many parties, dinners, lunches, brunches and shindigs to look forward to in the upcoming weeks, why not plan a feast to remember? And all with a little help from a kitchen you can trust. The O test kitchen has never been busier to ensure this bumper Christmas issue is packed with recipes (all triple tested, as usual) that are guaranteed to wow family and friends. There’s our cover, a magnificent black forest meringue tower – another corker by the brilliant Edd Kimber – that’s far easier to make than it looks, and tastes dreamy. He’s also put together a collection of his favourite festive puddings that are even better when they’re made ahead. So clever, so delicious. We’ve also got a foolproof guide to turkey, and six other great centrepieces, including a gorgeous, colourful vegan wellington and, my favourite, a roasted side of herb-crusted salmon with buttery new potatoes and brown shrimps. And, of course, we have the results of our annual Christmas Supermarket Awards for all those bits you’ll buy in – from cranberry sauce to mince pies and prosecco. We blind taste everything, so you’ll only spend your money on the best. There’s loads more besides, but I won’t spoil the surprises. Sit down, make yourself a mug of mulled hot chocolate (yes, really – head to page 135) and enjoy this beautiful issue as much as we enjoyed making it.

Laura Rowe, Editor



Christmas 2018


EDITORIAL EDITOR Laura Rowe FOOD DIRECTOR Janine Ratcliffe ART DIRECTOR Gillian McNeill CHIEF SUB & PRODUCTION EDITOR Dominic Martin DIGITAL EDITOR Alex Crossley TRAVEL EDITOR Rhiannon Batten SENIOR DESIGNER Jack Huntley COOKERY WRITER Adam Bush SUB EDITOR Hannah Guinness EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Ellie Edwards DIGITAL & COOKERY ASSISTANT Amanda James WITH THANKS TO Charly Morgan To email us, please use RECIPE, RESTAURANT AND TRAVEL ENQUIRIES 020 7150 5024 O, Immediate Media Company Ltd, Vineyard House, 44 Brook Green, London W6 7BT COMPLAINTS We abide by IPSO’s rules and regulations. To give feedback about our magazines, please visit, email editorialcomplaints@ or write to Laura Rowe at the above address.














O is owned and published by Immediate Media Company London Limited, Vineyard House, 44 Brook Green, London W6 7BT. ISSN 1742/115. Printed by Wyndeham Roche Ltd. Copyright Immediate Media Company London Limited 2018. Reproduction in whole or part prohibited without permission. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for errors in advertisements, articles, photographs or illustrations. All prices correct at time of going to press. UK basic annual subscription rate for 13 issues: £58.50. Europe/Eire £65, rest of the world £85.

4 Christmas 2018



Need to know 9 Christmas supermarket awards

44 Love your leftovers Recipes so

The winners, in 16 categories, of our fifth annual awards are sure to make seasonal entertaining that little bit easier 106 Festive drinks Ring in the party season with these Christmas cocktails 109 Wine Our wine expert picks the most versatile bottles for the holiday season 132 The lowdown Breeze your way through the festive break with top tips from the O team


145 Recipe index


cook 21 The main event


Create the perfect centrepiece for the festive dining table 32 Hit the sweet spot Glorious, show-off puds from Edd Kimber that taste even better made ahead





good that you’ll cook extra just so you can make them Get it right: roast turkey How to cook it perfectly on the big day Small wonders Make festive entertaining a cinch with our impressive, easy canapés Cook everyday Need a break from the excess? Let Ylva Bergqvist inspire with these speedy veggie recipes Souped up Seasonal, healthy soups to warm the cockles One-tray winners Keep it simple and try out these delicious and easy veggie and vegan traybakes Christmas dinner for two Not cooking for a crowd? Our all-in-one includes every festive favourite Sensational sides Power up your Christmas table with these awesome accompaniments



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118 86 Epic Christmas toastie This toastie is all the best bits of Christmas and Boxing Day sandwiched between pillowy bread and toasted until crisp

eat 92 The hot list

We reveal the 16 most exciting new restaurants for 2019 98 Pro vs punter Chloe Scott-Moncrieff and Jordan Sheehy compare notes on Tom Kerridge’s first London restaurant 101 Table-hopping Our latest restaurant and street-food recommendations 104 Hot off the pass Scientist-turnedchef Richard Falk is forensic about food. And he’s prepared to do a lot of “really nerdy research” to create perfect fried chicken for his new London restaurant


explore 114 Cook like a local: The Black Sea 118



129 131

The kitchens that encircle this great body of water between Europe and Asia harbour fabulous fusion dishes On the road: Kerala Spice up a trip to this idyllic corner of south-west India by stopping off for chicken wrapped in cinnamon leaves, coconut dosas and cardamom-laced coffee Weekender: Manchester Fuel up for a festive shopping trip with citybrewed beers, veggie street food and artisan bakes Flying solo Make bento, lamb mansaf or tortellini on these must-do foodie trips for independent travellers Food mileage The latest openings and food travel trends around the world Instatravel Val d’Aran, Spain

88 Six issues for just £19.99 PLUS a cook’s torch when you subscribe to O today 110 Reader offer Craft beers delivered direct to your door 111 In next month’s O 126 Reader offer Join a fully escorted trip exploring southern India


Christmas 2018


COVER star Recipe EDD KIMBER Photograph ANT DUNCAN

Black forest meringue tower 4 HOURS + COOLING | SERVES 12-14 A LITTLE EFFORT | GF

Once assembled the tower is best served on the day but the cherries and meringue layers can be prepared a few days ahead. Store the meringues in airtight containers. dark chocolate bar peeled to decorate (optional) MERINGUE eggs whites 8 large caster sugar 500g cocoa powder 1 tbsp, plus extra to dust (see cook’s notes) CHERRY FILLING fresh or frozen dark cherries 500g, pitted caster sugar 100g orange ½, juiced kirsch 75ml GANACHE dark chocolate chips or chopped dark chocolate 150g (see cook's notes) double cream 200ml FILLING double cream 400ml mascarpone 200g • Line two large baking trays with baking paper. On the back of one of the sheets of paper draw a 23cm circle and a 10cm circle.

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On the second sheet draw a 18cm circle and a 15cm circle. Heat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6. • To make the meringue, put the egg whites into a large bowl with a pinch of salt and, using an electric mixer, whisk until foamy. Add the sugar, 1 tbsp at a time, as you continue to whisk until the mixture holds stiff peaks. Add 1/3 of the cocoa powder and fold gently, then repeat twice more with the remaining cocoa powder, so that the cocoa stays rippled but not fully incorporated into the mixture. • Divide the mixture between the 4 circle templates, spreading so that they are roughly the same height as each other. Put the trays into the oven and immediately turn the oven down to 140C/fan 120C/gas 1. Bake for 1 hour 30 minutes or until crisp and feeling firm to the touch but still a pale white. Turn the oven off, leaving the meringues to cool for at least 2 hours in the oven. • Heat the cherries, sugar and orange juice in a small pan until the cherries are just starting to lose their shape and are releasing a lot of juice. Use a slotted spoon to move the fruits into a large bowl, leaving the juices in the pan. Simmer until reduced, thick and syrupy, then remove from the heat and add in the kirsch. Pour over the fruit, cover and chill until needed. • For the ganache, put the chocolate into a large bowl. Put the cream into a pan and

bring to a simmer, then pour it over the chocolate and allow to sit for a couple of minutes before stirring to combine. Cover and allow to cool to room temperature, so that it has a spreadable consistency. • When ready to assemble, make the filling by whisking together the cream and mascarpone until just holding soft peaks. Mascarpone can separate easily if overwhisked, so err on the side of caution. • To assemble, spread 1/2 the ganache on the largest meringue and cover with 1/2 the cream, spreading towards the edges of the meringue. Top with a few tbsp of the cherries and a little of the syrup. Repeat with the other 3 meringue layers. Dust with a little extra cocoa powder and finish with a few chocolate curls, made by running a peeler down the side of a chocolate bar, if you like. PER SERVING (14) 555 KCALS | FAT 34.2G SATURATES 21.3G | CARBS 53.3G | SUGARS 52G FIBRE 1.8G | PROTEIN 4.7G | SALT 0.4G

COOK’S NOTES We’re big fans of baking with Guittard – we used Guittard Akoma Extra Semisweet 55% Chocolate Chips and Cocoa Rouge Cocoa Powder for the best flavour, available at Lakeland and Don’t worry if your meringues crack a little – you can cover any imperfections with cream and ganache.

Christmas 2018



christmas Supermarket Awards 2018 With the busy festive period ahead, we could all do with a helping hand in the kitchen – the winners in our fifth O Christmas Supermarket Awards are sure to make seasonal entertaining that little bit easier



















HOW WE CHOSE THE WINNERS The O team selected 16 categories (some new for this year) having researched which products you, our readers, would be most likely to buy to make Christmas entertaining hassle-free. The supermarkets then selected the products they wanted to nominate (we only allowed them one entry per category, so they had to choose carefully). Every product was prepared according to the pack instructions – just as you would at home – and our expert panel of judges blind-tasted them, rating each on taste, texture and appearance. We then awarded gold, silver and bronze awards to our favourites – in one category, where the standard was very high, we agreed to award joint winners.

Best cranberry sauce Asda Extra Special MAGAZIN E SUPERMAR KET AWAR cranberry DS GOLD sauce with port, £1/230g A sauce with the perfect sweet and sour balance, and boozy kick, we could eat this one straight off the spoon. Waitrose chilled cranberry and port sauce, £2.19/300g MAGAZIN E SUPERMAR KET AWAR If you’re looking for a chunkier sauce, DS SILVER try this one with whole cranberries and a gentle spiced flavour.

Best frozen dessert Waitrose frozen raspberry and MAGAZIN E SUPERMAR KET AWAR passion fruit DS GOLD meringue wreath, £8/483g Crunchy meringue filled with fresh cream and topped with sweet passion fruit and tart raspberries – that’s what you call a crowd-pleaser.

Iceland Luxury black forest MAGAZIN E SUPERMAR KET AWAR layered pavlova, DS SILVER £6/567g The on-trend black forest flavours in this pavlova are well balanced, with a satisfyingly chewy meringue and an elegant finish.

Christmas 2018


Best own-brand gin Aldi Oliver Cromwell London dry gin, £9.99/70cl MAGAZIN E SUPERMAR KET AWAR The strong juniper notes meant DS GOLD this was our favourite easydrinking gin with a smooth, rounded finish. Co-op Irresistible London dry gin, £17.50/70cl MAGAZIN E SUPERMAR KET AWAR Perfect for those with a sweet DS SILVER tooth, this gin has fragrant background notes of vanilla.

Best Christmas drink Tesco Finest PX sherry, £6/37.5cl Like Christmas pudding in a glass, MAGAZIN E SUPERMAR KET AWAR this sweet sherry bursts with the DS GOLD flavour of juicy raisins. We’ll be sipping on this all Christmas night long. Waitrose reserve tawny port from Symington Family Estates, MAGAZIN E SUPERMAR KET AWAR £13.99/75cl DS SILVER The deep flavour of this port leaves a smooth, lingering finish. Make sure to leave a glass out for an appreciative Mr Claus. Sainsbury’s Taste the Difference Irish cream liqueur, £12.50/1 litre MAGAZIN E SUPERMAR KET AWAR Smooth, creamy and super DS BRONZE indulgent, this rich tipple is incredibly drinkable.

10 Christmas 2018

Best prosecco Sainsbury’s Taste the Difference Conegliano prosecco, £10/75cl MAGAZIN E SUPERMAR KET AWAR With delicate bubbles, a smooth mouthfeel DS GOLD and the longest finish of all we tasted, this is a prosecco that everyone will love.













M&S Nella prosecco, £8/75cl With strong pear notes, this is a classictasting prosecco with big bubbles and buttery notes. Asda Extra Special prosecco Asolo brut DOCG, £8/75cl We loved the tropical lychee notes from this bargain bottle.

Christmas 2018


Best smoked salmon Waitrose 1 chestnut-smoked Scottish salmon, £5.99/100g E GOLD With a gentle smoke, silky texture and a nice bit of bite, this smoked salmon will be perfect with a glass of buck’s fizz on Christmas morning. MAGAZIN



Co-op Irresistible beech-and-oak-smoked salmon, £4/100g E SILVER This is a great, traditional-style smoked salmon, with a really pleasing thickness and appealing drier texture. MAGAZIN



Asda Extra Special heather honey and black pepper smoked salmon, £3.99/120g E BRONZE Something a little bit different – a lovely soft and tender texture, and decent peppery flavour. MAGAZIN



Best mince pies Iceland Luxury mince pies, £1.89/6 (347g) MAGAZIN E SUPERMAR KET AWAR Plenty of big fat currants, DS GOLD tender peel and shortbread-like pastry with a lovely hint of salt – all that’s left to say about these cracking mince pies is, pass us the brandy butter! Morrisons The Best deepfilled mince pies, £2/6 MAGAZIN E SUPERMAR KET AWAR (weight may vary) DS SILVER A grown-up pie with a brandy kick, a good mix of fruit, and golden pastry. M&S Collection mince pies, £2.50/6 (318g) MAGAZIN E SUPERMAR KET AWAR A good, traditional mince pie DS BRONZE with a jammier filling than some of the others we tasted, and a moreish, buttery pastry case.

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Best pigs in blankets Aldi Specially Selected Three MAGAZIN E SUPERMAR KET AWAR Little Pigs, DS GOLD £2.99/288g Three for the price of one with these juicy sausage bundles! We loved the Christmassy sage and onion flavour, and sweet, caramelised bacon. Booths Lakeland pigs MAGAZIN E SUPERMAR KET AWAR in blankets, DS SILVER £4/250g Classic pigs in blankets with good porky flavour and a great sausage-to-bacon ratio.

Best meat-free main course Sainsbury’s Taste the MAGAZIN E SUPERMAR KET AWAR Difference truffled DS GOLD cauliflower cheese en croûte, £9/750g Crisp, flaky pastry with a deeply savoury, rich cauliflower cheese centre – you’ll have the meat eaters fighting you for it. Waitrose beetroot wellingtons, MAGAZIN E SUPERMAR KET AWAR £6.99/2 (585g) DS SILVER These vibrant vegan beetroot wellingtons – with their dramatic slice-through – are well seasoned with a deep earthy flavour, emphasised by a layer of sliced mushrooms.

Best seafood centrepiece Sainsbury’s Taste the Difference dressed poached MAGAZIN E SUPERMAR KET AWAR side of salmon, £20/700g DS GOLD Tender poached salmon with a beautifully pure flavour, topped with juicy prawns, smoked salmon and cream cheese, make this a low-maintenance, big-impact centrepiece to serve to a crowd. Booths salmon, prawn and dill terrine, £18/600g MAGAZIN E SUPERMAR KET AWAR We loved the balance of DS SILVER rich cream cheese, dill, juicy salmon and chunks of prawns in this ready-made terrine. Serve with hot toast as a Christmas Day starter or with posh crackers for a Boxing Day buffet.

Best christmas ham Waitrose Entertaining sweet-cured tamarind and pomegranate easy-carve gammon, £11.99/1-1.5kg MAGAZIN E SUPERMAR KET AWAR This impressive joint stood out a mile for our judges, DS GOLD with its sweet, caramelised glaze, well-seasoned and juicy meat, with great pork flavour. It’s a must-buy – just be sure to save some for your Boxing Day sarnie. Christmas 2018


Best festive show-off dessert Co-op Irresistible white Christmas snow globe, £10/690g MAGAZIN E SUPERMAR KET AWAR With well-defined layers of crunchy biscuit DS GOLD and caramel, this millionaire’s shortbreadstyle dessert has a well-balanced sweetness. M&S Belgian chocolate and cherry dessert, £20/1kg MAGAZIN E SUPERMAR KET AWAR One for the chocolate lovers – cutting DS GOLD through the beautiful decoration reveals pops of cherry and a rich cocoa mousse.

The Christmas cake everyone will want to buy Sainsbury’s Taste the Difference falling leaves iced fruit cake, £15/1.3kg MAGAZIN E SUPERMAR KET AWAR With good chunks of nuts and fruit, and DS GOLD a classy decoration, this moist cake also has the perfect proportion of booze. Waitrose Entertaining Fiona Cairns chocolate fruitcake, £30 MAGAZIN E SUPERMAR KET AWAR A modern twist on a Christmas cake DS SILVER with a rich cocoa background flavour and bursts of juicy fruit – we love the simple yet showstopping decoration, too.

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Best Christmas pudding Tesco 12-month matured Christmas pudding, £8/907g MAGAZIN E SUPERMAR KET AWAR With plump, juicy fruit, a boozy DS GOLD kick and dark caramel flavour, this soft pudding is an all-round winner. M&S The Collection 12-month matured intensely fruity MAGAZIN E SUPERMAR KET AWAR Christmas pudding, £8/454g DS SILVER Choose this one if you want a classic, moist, well-rounded pud.

Best ready-made cheeseboard Waitrose 1 cheese selection, £15/500g A must on every buffet table this Christmas, this MAGAZIN E SUPERMAR KET AWAR standout cheeseboard includes a strong, crunchy DS GOLD Quartz cheddar, deeply flavoured stilton, sharp goat’s cheese, nutty gruyère and creamy Saint Marcellin IGP.

Best panettone MAGAZIN






Waitrose 1 classic panettone, £15/750g A fragrant, light sponge packed with juicy raisins and a lovely glossy crust. Great fresh or toasted and slathered with chocolate spread.

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Booths award-winning cheese selection, £25/1kg It’s hard to believe this artisan cheeseboard is from a MAGAZIN E SUPERMAR KET AWAR supermarket and not a cheesemonger, with a ripe, DS SILVER creamy blue, fresh goat’s cheese, Montgomery cheddar, crowd-pleasing Cornish yarg and ripe brie de Meaux.




Every recipe you’ll need for the festive season including Christmas Day centrepieces, brilliant recipes using leftovers, make-ahead desserts and speedy canapés. PLUS loads of quick and healthy midweek meals

Giant vegan Wellington | Baileys tiramisu trifle | ’Nduja-fried sprouts Russian honey cake | One-tray Xmas dinner | Loaded spiced turkey naan Hog roast with spiced apple stuffing | Roots tatin with three-cheese sauce Christmas 2018



The ... Create the perfect centrepiece whatever the occasion, with one of these inventive dishes for holiday entertaining



Christmas 2018


Sherry-and-quinceglazed ham with pineapple relish p28

22 Christmas 2018


Roast salmon with herb crust and brown shrimp butter p28

Christmas 2018


Giant vegan wellington p28

24 Christmas 2018


Roast duck with crispy potatoes and mulled-wine cherry sauce p29

Christmas 2018


Hog roast with spiced apple stuffing p30

26 Christmas 2018

COOK Roots tatin with threecheese sauce p30

Christmas 2018


Sherry-andquince-glazed ham with pineapple relish

Roast salmon with herb crust and brown shrimp butter



This ham can be scaled up or down in size – just use the calculations below. Rather than the fuss of boiling then baking, we prefer to tent the ham with foil and bake in its own juices before glazing. gammon joint 2kg onion 1, cut into thick slices black peppercorns 2 tsp PINEAPPLE RELISH pineapple 400g (after peeling and taking out the inner core), cut into 1cm pieces onion 1, finely chopped flame or golden raisins 6 tbsp cloves 2, crushed allspice 3, crushed demerara sugar 8 tbsp red wine vinegar 6 tbsp GLAZE sweet sherry 3 tbsp quince jam 4 tbsp • Heat the oven to 180C/fan 160C/gas 4. Weigh the gammon then tear off 2 long pieces of foil. Lay the two pieces in a cross in a roasting tin with the excess hanging over the edges. Put the onion slices on the middle of the foil and sit the gammon on top. Pull up the sides, scatter over the peppercorns and enclose to make a parcel. • Bake in the oven for 30 minutes for each 500g (so a 2kg joint will take 2 hours). • Put all the relish ingredients in a pan and simmer, covered, for 50-55 minutes or until the relish is sticky and jammy. • Mix the glaze ingredients in a bowl. • Take the ham out of the oven and rest for 10 minutes before removing the foil. Turn up the oven to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6. • Cool the ham just enough so that you can trim off the skin, leaving a good layer of fat underneath. Score the fat lightly in a criss-cross pattern, brush well with glaze and put back in the oven for 20-30 minutes (brushing a few more times throughout) or until the ham is golden. Rest for 20 minutes then carve in thick slices and serve with the relish. PER SERVING 553 KCALS | FAT 19G SATURATES 6.3G | CARBS 47.8G | SUGARS 47.1G FIBRE 2.4G | PROTEIN 45G | SALT 5.6G

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sea salt flakes 2 tbsp coriander seeds 2 tsp, toasted and crushed salmon 1.5kg side, skin on new potatoes 1kg, large ones halved butter 150g, diced brown shrimp 70g pack lemons 2, juiced HERB CRUST flat-leaf parsley ½ a small bunch, roughly chopped dill ½ a bunch, roughly chopped english mustard powder 1 tbsp black peppercorns crushed to make ½ tsp lemon 1, zested capers 50g, drained and rinsed soft white breadcrumbs 150g extra-virgin olive oil 3 tbsp • Mix the sea salt with the coriander seeds and sprinkle all over the flesh of the salmon. Cover and chill for 1 hour, then rinse well under gently running cold water and pat dry with kitchen paper. • Put the new potatoes in a large pan of lightly salted cold water and bring to the boil, then simmer for 8-10 minutes or until tender to the point of a knife. Drain well. • Heat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6. Put the parsley, dill, mustard powder, peppercorns, lemon zest and a pinch of salt into a food processor, and whizz until finely chopped. Tip in the capers, breadcrumbs and oil, and pulse until combined. • Put the salmon, skin-side down, into a large roasting tin with the new potatoes all around, then pack the herby breadcrumbs all over the top of the fish. Dot the butter all over the potatoes and season, then roast in the oven for 25 minutes. Stir the brown shrimp into the potatoes and butter after 20 minutes, for the final 5 minutes of cooking. Remove from the oven, pour over the lemon juice and serve with roasted carrots and greens tossed in more of the buttery juices, if you like. PER SERVING 726 KCALS | FAT 48.9G SATURATES 15.7G | CARBS 24.9G | SUGARS 1.9G FIBRE 3.5G | PROTEIN 44.9G | SALT 2.5G

Giant vegan wellington 1 HOUR 30 MINUTES + CHILLING SERVES 6 | A LITTLE EFFORT |

olive oil 1 tbsp garlic 2 cloves, finely chopped kale 250g, tough stalks removed cooked beetroot 250g pack, thinly sliced roasted red peppers from a jar 3, drained and halved PASTRY plain flour 500g, plus extra for dusting olive oil 210ml aquafaba 7 tbsp (see cook’s notes) STUFFING olive oil 2 tbsp onion 1, finely chopped swede 150g, coarsely grated garlic 2 cloves, finely chopped thyme a few sprigs, leaves stripped nutmeg a good grating ready-cooked puy lentils 200g pouch apple 1, coarsely grated hazelnuts 30g, toasted and finely chopped breadcrumbs 50g lemon 1, zested GLAZE Marmite 1 tsp GRAVY vegetable oil 1 tbsp shallot 1, finely chopped brandy 100ml pink peppercorns 1 tbsp, lightly crushed vegan gravy granules 3 tbsp (see cook’s notes) soya cream 50ml • To make the pastry, mix the flour with 1 tsp salt then stir in the olive oil and 5 or 6 tbsp of aquafaba until it comes together as a dough, then knead lightly for 30 seconds. Cut 1/3 of the pastry from the block, then wrap and chill both blocks for 30 minutes. • Meanwhile, make the stuffing. Heat the olive oil in a frying pan and cook the onion and swede for 5-10 minutes or until soft. Add the garlic, thyme and nutmeg, and cook for a further minute. Tip in the cooked lentils, apple and hazelnuts, and cook for 1 minute before stirring through the breadcrumbs and lemon zest. Cool. • Heat 1 tbsp olive oil in a large pan and cook the chopped garlic for 2 minutes until fragrant. Add the kale and a splash of boiling water, and cook until the kale has

COOK wilted and the water has evaporated. Season and cool. • On a lightly floured piece of baking paper, roll out the 1/3 of pastry to a 25cm x 15cm rectangle, then slide onto a baking sheet. Spoon ½ of the stuffing onto the pastry in an even layer, leaving a 1cm border. Add ½ of the kale mixture, ½ of the beetroot slices and all the pepper slices, so that you have clear layers. Spoon the remaining stuffing mix on top of this, then repeat with the remaining beetroot and kale. • On another lightly floured piece of baking paper, roll out the remaining pastry to a 35cm x 30cm rectangle. Carefully flip the pastry onto the wellington and peel off the baking paper. Use your hands to mould the pastry round so it is tight to the filling. Use your finger and thumb to crimp the edges of the pastry so it’s completely encased, then trim any excess. Roll out any excess pastry and decorate, if you like. Chill for 30 minutes. • Heat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6. Mix the Marmite with 1 tbsp aquafaba and use this to glaze the entire wellington. Put into the oven for 25-30 minutes or until the pastry is crisp and golden. • To make the gravy, heat the vegetable oil in a small pan and cook the shallot for 5 minutes until soft. Tip in the brandy and pink peppercorns. Mix the gravy granules with 350ml water and pour in. Simmer for 5 minutes until thickened slightly, then stir through the soya cream. Keep warm but do not boil. Cut the wellington into thick slices and serve with the gravy. PER SERVING 774 KCALS | FAT 39G SATURATES 5.5G | CARBS 76.3G | SUGARS 9.8G FIBRE 8G | PROTEIN 16.1G | SALT 2.4G

COOK’S NOTES Aquafaba is the starchy liquid from a tin of chickpeas – it will help bind the pastry, a little like egg white. Check out for recipes to use up your drained chickpeas. Many well-known brands and supermarket gravy granules are vegan (including Bisto).

Roast duck with crispy potatoes and mulled-wine cherry sauce 3 HOURS | SERVES 4 | EASY

You can scale this up or down, with one leg and 200-250g of potatoes per person. duck legs 4 thyme a few sprigs, plus extra for garnishing garlic 6 cloves, bashed sea salt flakes Maris Piper potatoes 1kg, peeled and diced to 2cm MULLED-WINE CHERRY SAUCE red wine 300ml chicken stock 300ml dried sour cherries 75g cloves 3 allspice 4 cinnamon stick ½ redcurrant jelly 1 tbsp butter 30g • To make the sauce, put the wine, stock, cherries and spices into a pan. Simmer until reduced by 1/2. Scoop out the spices and discard. Stir in the redcurrant jelly and butter, and season. Reheat to serve. • Heat the oven to 160C/fan 140C/gas 3. Put the duck legs in a baking dish and pat the skins dry. Add the thyme and garlic, and sprinkle with sea salt. Cover the dish tightly with foil and cook for 2 hours. • Meanwhile, drop the potatoes into boiling salted water and cook for 5 minutes. Drain. • Take the baking dish out of the oven and remove the duck legs. Turn up the oven to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6 and put in a large, shallow, non-stick baking tray. Pour the duck juices from the baking dish into a jug. Pour off and keep the fat, leaving behind the duck juices (you can add these to the cherry sauce, if you like). • Put 4 tbsp of the fat into the hot baking tray. Add the potatoes and stir around in the fat. Put in the oven and cook for 20 minutes until the potatoes are just turning golden, then nestle the duck in among the potatoes and cook for 40 minutes or until the duck and potatoes are crisp and deep golden. Sprinkle with more fresh thyme and sea salt. Serve with the sauce and some greens, if you like. PER SERVING 675 KCALS | FAT 31.6G SATURATES 11.5G | CARBS 44.1G | SUGARS 10.4G FIBRE 6.5G | PROTEIN 36.4G | SALT 1.3G

Christmas 2018


Hog roast with spiced apple stuffing

Roots tatin with threecheese sauce



You’ll need butcher’s string to tie this up – if you get your pork from a butcher ask for some string when you buy it. pork shoulder 2kg joint, skin scored well and butterflied (ask your butcher to do this) sea salt flakes 2 tsp onions 2 plain flour 1 tbsp chicken stock 500ml white wine a glass SPICED APPLE STUFFING apple 1, grated red onion 1 small, grated sage a handful of leaves, chopped egg yolk 1 fennel seeds 1 tsp, toasted ground allspice ½ tsp pork sausages 200g, skinned soft breadcrumbs 100g • Heat the oven to 150C/fan 130C/gas 2. Mix all the stuffing ingredients well and season. • Lay 4 pieces of kitchen string on a worksurface. Put the pork skin-side down on the string. Spread over the stuffing. Bring up the sides, reshape the pork into a joint and tie the string so the stuffing is secured. Season the skin with the sea salt. • Cut the onions into thick slices and put in the bottom of a roasting tin to form a trivet. Sit the pork on top and pour 1/2 a mug of water in the bottom of the tin. Cover the whole tin tightly with foil and cook for 3 hours. • Remove the foil and turn up the oven to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6. Cook for a further hour, or until the skin has crackled properly. Take the pork from the oven, remove from the tin and leave to rest, covered, for 30 minutes. • To make the gravy, put the roasting tin over a medium heat and skim away most of the fat. Add the flour and stir well, taking up all the bits in the pan and the fat. Gradually add the stock and wine, and increase the heat to a simmer, stirring all the time. Simmer for 10 minutes, then season if it needs it. Serve the pork with the gravy and trimmings. PER SERVING 633 KCALS | FAT 37.4G SATURATES 13G | CARBS 18G | SUGARS 5G FIBRE 2.1G | PROTEIN 52.6G | SALT 2.1G

30 Christmas 2018

carrots 3 large (about 500g), peeled sweet potatoes 2 (about 500g), peeled parsnips 3 large (about 500g), peeled small turnips 3 (about 350g), peeled olive oil 2 tbsp garlic 3 cloves, bashed butter 50g maple syrup 4 tbsp rosemary a few sprigs ready-rolled puff pastry 2 sheets egg 1, beaten THREE-CHEESE SAUCE soft cheese 50g gruyère 50g dolcelatte 50g double cream 100ml ground white pepper • Heat the oven to 190C/fan 170C/gas 5. Cut all the veg into 1.5cm-thick discs. Toss with the olive oil and garlic, and spread out on a large baking tray. Roast for 30-35 minutes or until just tender and starting to colour at the edges. • Take the veg out of the oven and turn it up to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6. • Melt the butter and maple syrup together in a pan over a low heat, then pour into the bottom of a non-stick rectangular baking tray (approximately 26cm x 36cm) and spread to cover. Sprinkle over some rosemary then arrange the veg in a single layer. • Join the two pieces of pastry together to make one large sheet, sticking with a little egg. Drape the pastry over the veg, trimming and tucking in the sides (freeze the trimmings for later). Use a knife to make a few holes in the pastry for the steam to escape. Glaze again with egg then put in the oven for 30-35 minutes or until puffed and golden. • Leave to cool for 5 minutes then carefully flip onto a large board and cut into sections. • While the tart is cooling, make the cheese sauce. Put all the ingredients in a pan and heat gently until the cheese has melted. Season with white pepper and serve with the tart. PER SERVING 706 KCALS | FAT 44.8G SATURATES 22.1G | CARBS 59.4G | SUGARS 20.3G FIBRE 11.1G | PROTEIN 11.3G | SALT 1.2G

Hit the


These glorious, show-off puds from Edd Kimber have one thing in common: they are all even better when made ahead Recipes EDD KIMBER Photographs ANT DUNCAN

Russian honey cake p38

32 Christmas 2018


Mulled wine winter puddings



Christmas 2018


Speculoos cheesecake p39

34 Christmas 2018


Pandoro semifreddo p40

Christmas 2018


Layered mint chocolate mousse pots p41

36 Christmas 2018


Baileys tiramisu trifle p41

Christmas 2018



I first had a version of this cake at the 20th Century Café in San Francisco and this Russian-inspired creation owes a lot to that recipe – especially the icing, where the surprise ingredient is a glorious amount of dulce de leche, which adds a wonderful caramel note. BURNT-HONEY ICING runny honey 95g double cream 750ml sea salt a large pinch dulce de leche 250g soured cream 65ml CAKE LAYERS unsalted butter 125g runny honey 150g soft light brown sugar 125g plain flour 500g, plus extra for dusting bicarbonate of soda 1 tsp salt 1/4 tsp ground ginger 1 tsp ground cinnamon 2 tsp mixed spice 1 tsp eggs 3 large vanilla extract 2 tsp • To make the icing, put the honey into a small pan and cook over a medium heat for 5-10 minutes or until it turns a couple of shades darker, and stop just before it starts to smoke. Remove the pan from the heat and pour in 150ml of the double cream and the sea salt. Pour this mixture into a small bowl, cover and chill until fully cooled. • Heat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6 and line with baking paper as many baking trays as you can fit into the oven at one time. Draw a 23cm-diameter circle on the back of each piece of paper – this will act as a template for the cake layers. • To make the cake layers, put the butter, honey and sugar into a large pan, and cook for 5 minutes over a medium heat or until everything is melted and the mixture is bubbling and smelling toasty. Remove the pan from the heat and put aside to cool slightly, then pour into a bowl. • Meanwhile, in a separate bowl, whisk together the dry ingredients. Put the eggs and vanilla extract into a jug and whisk

38 Christmas 2018

briefly. Begin whisking the butter mixture, slowly pouring the eggs into the bowl (make sure you do whisk as otherwise the eggs could cook). Add the dry ingredients and mix in with a wooden spoon until fully combined. The finished result will resemble a slightly softer and more pliable gingerbread dough. • Working while the dough is still a little warm, divide into 8 equal portions, putting aside and covering with a kitchen towel to prevent them from drying out. Working with one piece at a time, put a ball of dough onto one of the prepared pieces of baking paper, lightly flour and roll until they are very thin and just a little bigger than the template. Trim back to the 23cm circle and put the trimmings aside. Once you have rolled out as many as you can fit in the oven at once, bake for 8-9 minutes or until slightly firm to the touch and browning slightly around the edges. The finished cakes will be like gingerbread biscuits but with a little more flexibility. Slide the discs onto wire racks to cool and continue until all the discs are baked. To finish, bake all the scraps on a baking-paper-lined tray for 10-12 minutes or until fully dried out and a little crisp, plus a shade darker than the discs. • To finish the icing, remove the honey mixture from the fridge and mix in the dulce de leche and the soured cream. In a large bowl, whisk the remaining double cream until it just holds soft peaks, then fold in the honey mixture. The final texture should not quite be soft peaks, it should still be a little fluid. • To assemble, sandwich the honey cake layers with a little of the icing and then spread the remainder over the top and sides of the cake. Chill the cake in the fridge overnight so that the moisture in the filling can soak into the layers – this is essential to give the finished dish a more cake-like texture. • When ready to serve, put the scraps of cake into a food processor and pulse until crumbs. Use them to cover the top and sides of the cake. PER SERVING 446 KCALS | FAT 28.1G SATURATES 17.1G | CARBS 42G | SUGARS 22.2G FIBRE 1.2G | PROTEIN 5.4G | SALT 0.3G

Mulled wine winter puddings 45 MINUTES + INFUSING + CHILLING OVERNIGHT MAKES 6 | EASY

This recipe uses one of my favourite kitchen staples – frozen berries. I always have a bag of these in the freezer as it means you can enjoy the fruit year round. This twist on a summer pudding marries black forest fruits with mulled wine, which makes for an easy yet delicious Christmas dessert. frozen black forest fruits 600g, defrosted caster sugar 75g lemon ½, juiced red wine 200ml (something fruity like shiraz or malbec) star anise 1 cinnamon stick 1 cloves 2 orange peel 2 strips white bread 10 slices crème fraîche to serve (optional) • Put the fruit, sugar and lemon juice into a pan and cook over a medium heat for 5 minutes or until the fruit has released a lot of juice but has only just started to break down. Pour the mixture into a fine sieve set over a bowl and put aside for 20 minutes or until all the juice has drained from the fruit. • Put the fruit syrup into a small pan with the wine, spices and orange peel. Bring to a simmer and cook for 5 minutes before covering and putting aside for an hour to infuse the flavours into the syrup. • Line 6 small pudding moulds with clingfilm, leaving enough overhanging to cover the puddings later. Use a 5cm round biscuit cutter to cut 6 discs from 2 pieces of bread, to fit the bases of the moulds. Using the remaining bread, cut out 6 x 7cm discs for the lids and then as many rectangles, roughly 4cm x 5cm wide, as you can. Dip the smaller circles in the syrup then put into the bases of the moulds. Repeat with the rectangular pieces, fitting them around the sides of the moulds and making sure they overlap a little so they stick together. Fill each mould with fruit right to the brim and top up with a tbsp or so of the syrup. Finally, soak the larger discs of bread in the syrup and put on top of the puddings, then cover with the overhanging clingfilm. Chill any remaining syrup.

COOK • Put the finished puddings onto a baking tray in the fridge and set a second tray on top with something heavy to secure it in place. This weighting will help seal the puddings and make sure they come out in one piece when served. Leave the puddings in the fridge for 6-8 hours or overnight before serving. • When ready to serve, unwrap the moulds and turn the puddings out onto plates. Top with any left-over syrup and a dollop of crème fraîche, if you like. PER SERVING 211 KCALS | FAT 0.9G SATURATES 0.2G | CARBS 36.3G | SUGARS 19.1G FIBRE 6.6G | PROTEIN 4.8G | SALT 0.4G

Speculoos cheesecake 2 HOURS + CHILLING OVERNIGHT SERVES 16 | EASY

Cheesecake is probably the ultimate prepare-ahead dessert. It needs a long rest in the fridge before serving so it’s best to think ahead for this dish, but the preparation will be well rewarded with a beautiful cheesecake lavishly topped with biscuit spread and tangy whipped cream. BASE speculoos biscuits 250g (I use the Lotus brand, widely available in supermarkets) unsalted butter 85g, melted, plus extra for the tin CHEESECAKE FILLING full-fat soft cheese 840g, room temperature soured cream 150ml, room temperature caster sugar 300g cornflour 3 tbsp eggs 3 large, room temperature vanilla bean paste or extract 1 tsp lemon 1, zested TOPPING speculoos biscuit spread 3 heaped tbsp, room temperature double cream 400ml vanilla bean paste or extract 1 tsp soured cream 50ml

a food processor, and whizz, or into a ziplock bag and use a rolling pin to crush the biscuits into fine crumbs. Tip the crumbs into a bowl and then pour in the butter, stirring together to evenly mix. Put this mixture into the cake tin and use the base of a glass to compact the crumbs firmly into an even layer, also pressing it slightly up the sides of the tin. Bake for 10-15 minutes or until lightly browned. Put aside to cool. • To make the cheesecake filling, put all of the ingredients into a large bowl and use electric beaters to mix until smooth. Pour the mixture into the tin and gently level out. Wrap a wide sheet of foil around the base and sides of the tin and put into the oven, sitting it inside a roasting tray. Pour boiling water into the tray so that it comes about halfway up the sides. • Bake for 15 minutes then reduce the temperature to 140C/fan 120C/gas 1 and bake for 1 hour 15 minutes-1 hour 20 minutes or until set around the sides of the cake but with a gentle wobble in the middle. Turn the oven off but leave the cheesecake inside for 2 hours to cool down slowly, then remove and cool fully at room temperature. Once cooled, put into the fridge overnight to chill and set completely. • When ready to serve, spoon the biscuit spread evenly over the top of the chilled cheesecake. • To finish, put the double cream and vanilla in a large bowl and whisk to soft peaks. Add the soured cream and fold to combine. Dollop the cream onto the cheesecake and top with the reserved biscuits, crumbled into small pieces. PER SERVING 516 KCALS | FAT 38.2G SATURATES 22.8G | CARBS 36.9G | SUGARS 28.5G FIBRE 0.3G | PROTEIN 5.9G | SALT 0.6G

• Heat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6. Lightly butter and line the base and sides of a 23cm springform cake tin with baking paper. • To make the base, put the biscuits (keeping aside 2 for decoration) into either

Christmas 2018


Pandoro semifreddo 45 MINUTES + FREEZING SERVES 12 | EASY

This is a dish inspired by the Italian dessert zuccotto, a breadbased dish similar to summer pudding – but instead of fruit it is filled with a ricotta mixture. I have used this idea but placed the ricotta semifreddo inside a hollowed-out loaf of pandoro, which makes for a dramaticlooking dessert. pandoro 750g loaf ricotta 200g vanilla bean paste or extract 1 tsp caster sugar 125g egg whites 4 large double cream 350ml dark chocolate 100g, melted pistachios 25g, chopped CHOCOLATE SEMIFREDDO cocoa powder 3 tbsp whole milk 3 tbsp dark chocolate 50g, finely chopped AMARETTO SEMIFREDDO amaretto 3 tbsp almond extract a few drops almonds 35g, chopped candied mixed peel 35g • Use a serrated knife to slice the base from the pandoro, keeping this for later, and then hollow it out, leaving a 1cm border on the inside. Be careful not to cut too close to the edge of the loaf as you don’t want any holes (you can use the trimmings for a bread and butter pudding).

40 Christmas 2018

• For the chocolate semifreddo, put the cocoa and milk into a small pan and, over a medium heat, bring to a simmer, then whisk to a smooth paste. Scrape into a small bowl and cool. • Put the ricotta, vanilla and 1/2 the sugar into a bowl and whisk until smooth. Put the egg whites into a large bowl and, using electric beaters, whisk until foamy, then slowly whisk in the remaining sugar until the whites hold soft peaks. In a separate bowl, whisk the double cream until it holds soft peaks. Add the ricotta mixture to the cream and fold to combine, then fold in the egg whites. • Divide the mixture into 2 bowls. To one add the cooled cocoa paste and chopped chocolate, folding together, and for the other portion fold in the amaretto, almond extract, nuts and the candied peel. • Pour the amaretto semifreddo in the hollowed pandoro, followed by the chocolate semifreddo. Put the reserved pandoro base on top and freeze for at least 6 hours or until the semifreddo is solid. • When ready to serve, remove the pandoro from the freezer, turn the right way up onto a serving plate and finish by pouring over the melted chocolate and sprinkling with the pistachios. Leave for 30 minutes to thaw slightly, then cut into slices to serve. PER SERVING 622 KCALS | FAT 40.1G SATURATES 24.4G | CARBS 50.2G | SUGARS 31.1G FIBRE 2.8G | PROTEIN 11.4G | SALT 0.6G

COOK Layered mint chocolate mousse pots 45 MINUTES + SETTING MAKES 6 | EASY | GF

Chocolate and mint is one of those combinations that always feels right at Christmas, and this mousse verges on the addictive. WHITE CHOCOLATE MINT LAYERS white chocolate 100g, finely chopped double cream 100ml, plus extra to serve (optional) peppermint extract 3/4 tsp green food colouring (gel pastes are best) a few drops CHOCOLATE MOUSSE LAYERS dark chocolate (65-70% cocoa solids) 100g, chopped whole milk 3 tbsp eggs 2 large, whites and yolks separated caster sugar 60g double cream 200ml • Make the mint layers by putting the white chocolate in a bowl and the cream into a small pan. Over a medium heat bring the cream to a simmer then pour over the chocolate, along with the peppermint extract and the green colouring. Mix until smooth, then put aside for 30 minutes or until cooled slightly. • To make the chocolate mousse, put the dark chocolate in a heatproof bowl set over a pan of simmering water and heat, stirring occasionally, until melted. Remove the bowl from the heat and stir in the milk. Put aside to cool slightly. • Whisk the egg whites until foamy then slowly pour in the sugar while continuing to whisk until the mixture holds soft peaks. In a separate bowl, whisk the cream until soft peaks. • Mix the egg yolks into the cooled dark chocolate mixture then fold in the double cream followed by the egg whites. • To assemble, pour a little of the mint layer into the bottom of 6 small glasses (about 200ml capacity each) and swirl so it levels out. Put the glasses in the freezer for 10 minutes or until the layer is set. Top with 2 tbsp of the mousse mixture and carefully spread into an even layer. Freeze for 10 minutes as before. • Repeat this layering process until all the mousse is used. Refrigerate the finished

desserts for a few hours or overnight until ready to serve. You can serve them as they are or with a little dollop of whipped cream, if you like. PER SERVING 505 KCALS | FAT 40.6G SATURATES 24.1G | CARBS 27.9G | SUGARS 26.6G FIBRE 1.3G | PROTEIN 6.1G | SALT 0.2G

Baileys tiramisu trifle 45 MINUTES + CHILLING SERVES 12 | EASY

This tiramisu-inspired trifle is very low on prep so it’s a nice option if you don’t want to spend hours in the kitchen. whole milk 500ml cornflour 40g caster sugar 200g vanilla bean paste or extract 1 tsp eggs 3 large amaretti biscuits 25g, crushed CHOCOLATE CUSTARD dark chocolate 100g, 50g chopped and 50g shaved, to serve sea salt flakes a pinch BAILEYS CUSTARD mascarpone 75g Baileys (or Irish cream liqueur) 50ml SPONGE chocolate swiss roll 1 large (homemade or shop-bought) strong coffee 100ml, hot amaretto 2-4 tbsp (depending on how boozy you like it) ESPRESSO WHIPPED CREAM soft light brown sugar 2 tbsp instant espresso powder 2 tsp double cream 450ml

Press a sheet of clingfilm onto the surface of the custards to stop skins forming and chill for a few hours. • When ready to assemble, cut the swiss roll into 2cm-thick slices. Mix the hot coffee and the amaretto. Quickly dip one side of a few slices of swiss roll into the coffee mixture and use to line the sides of a trifle bowl. Take the remaining slices and break into pieces, filling the bottom of the bowl. Drizzle over the remaining coffee mixture. Spread the Baileys custard over the base, followed by a layer of crushed amaretti biscuits and then the chocolate custard. Chill for a few hours or overnight. • When ready to serve, put the brown sugar and espresso powder into a small bowl and pour over 2 tbsp boiling water, mixing to combine. Pour this coffee mixture into the double cream and whisk until it just holds soft peaks. Dollop the cream onto the trifle and top with the shaved chocolate. • Once fully assembled the trifle will keep for a day in the fridge but you can make the custard bases a few days ahead and chill until ready to assemble. PER SERVING 547 KCALS | FAT 35.9G SATURATES 21G | CARBS 46.5G | SUGARS 39.7G FIBRE 1.5G | PROTEIN 6.5G | SALT 0.7G

CLICK HERE... For more great recipes by Edd, search Edd Kimber at

• To make the custard, put the milk into a large pan over a medium heat and bring to a simmer. Meanwhile, put the cornflour, caster sugar, vanilla and eggs into a large bowl and whisk until smooth. Pour the hot milk over the egg mixture, whisking together. Pour the custard back into the pan and cook gently, whisking constantly, until thickened. Divide the custard equally between 2 bowls. To one, add the 50g chopped dark chocolate and sea salt, whisking until the chocolate has melted. To the second, add the mascarpone and Baileys, whisking until evenly combined.

Christmas 2018 41

Find your perfect

wine pairing this Christmas

’Tis the season to be merry, so make sure your festive frolics get off to a flying start with these top tips he stockings are up, the halls have been decked, and you’ve got all the trimmings. But, it’s so easy to fall into old habits when it comes to your holiday tipples. Here are Naked Wines’ six quick tricks to shake up your Christmas drinking and keep you festive fresh.


KICK OFF YOUR DAY, THE RIGHT WAY... While everyone else is sipping a Buck’s Fizz, add some zesty zing to your Christmas smoked salmon breakfast with a grapefruit and rosemary mimosa. Pour half a glass of grapefruit juice into a flute, add 2 tsp of rosemary-infused sugar syrup and fill up with your fizz of choice. Garnish with more rosemary to make it Instagram perfect.

PIGNOLETTO IS THE NEW PROSECCO When every other festive gathering cracks out a bottle of prosecco, jump ahead of the curve and whip out a bottle of pignoletto instead. The David to prosecco’s Goliath, this Italian secret sparkler is softer, fruitier and, even better, a fraction of the price.

BIG DAY DOESN’T HAVE TO MEAN BIG REDS If you serve a big, robust red before dinner, nobody will taste anything afterwards. So kick start the festivities with a bottle of fizz and follow it up with a crisp, refreshing white like Naked’s Cordero gavi. Then you can move onto the bigger reds with your delicious festive feast.

THAT’S THE SPIRIT! A simple and stylish way to rest the taste buds after rich wine is a G&T. Grab a large glass, fill it with ice and pour in a shot of Naked’s Rambla 41 gin Add some clementine slices, and top up with a good-quality tonic. Don’t forget to leave one out for Santa, too!

DISCOVER NAKED WINES These top tips are brought to you by Naked Wines. If you haven’t yet joined the thousands of UK wine drinkers who have discovered this online retailer, here’s the lowdown. Founded by Rowan Gormley in 2008, it’s an innovative business model where customers fund independent winemakers from around the world, in return for wines at wholesale prices. What’s not to like?



• Every wine is handmade by a real winemaker

Food and wine matching is a bit like a marriage – 5% made in heaven, 5% made in hell, and the rest can be made to work. As a general rule, match rich food with big wines and lighter dishes with lighter wines. Pinot noir and a turkey sandwich is a pretty perfect fit to see you through Boxing Day.

Who doesn’t love making a statement when you’re trying to impress your in-laws? The perfect centrepiece for your festive table is a magnum of wine. These double-sized beauties look great and can set the tone for a truly cracking Christmas. It’s all about socialising around the bottle.

• Every price is real and never inflated for phoney discounts • Every winemaker gets a fair and sustainable deal • Every review was made by a real wine drinker, just like you

FROM O’s EDITOR This month we’ve worked together with Naked Wines to create a hardworking Christmas essentials box – packed with 12 absolutely delicious wines to see you through the festive period. Each wine would work well for a variety of occasions and flavours – making it super good value at just £41.38. Take the refreshing Italian gavi, for example: this would be good with the baked side of salmon we have on p28, or our caviar-topped crisps (easiest canapé ever?), or even the turkey for those at the table who aren’t fans of red. Or, there’s a Chilean pinot noir with real personality for the Boxing Day buffet. There’s even a young and fruity port to keep you going. Get yours now, while stocks last. This exclusive case is worth £156.38, but O readers can get all 12 bottles for just £41.38!

Laura Rowe


Snap up the exclusive O Christmas Party 12 pack of festive wines that are guaranteed to please your guests – all for a winning £41.38, plus £4.99 delivery! Alternatively, pick your own wines and get £75 off list prices (minimum spend £114.99). Just go to nkdxmas and enter the code OLV75 and password ASP32XYN. For UK residents aged 18 or over only, visit nakedwines. com/terms for full T&Cs.


Naked Angels support a range of winemakers in return for discounts, freebies and exclusive wines – and you could be one of them. Angels pay £20 a month into their Naked Wines piggy bank, ready to spend on wine whenever they want. You’ll get a free bottle a month if you order a case, next-day delivery, and up to 50% off every time you order.

Find your perfect Christmas tipple at

Love your

s r e v o t f e l

Refried smashed roasties with green harissa and yogurt p48

44 Christmas 2018

Recipes so good you’ll cook extra just so you can make them... Recipes ADAM BUSH and JANINE RATCLIFFE Photographs KRIS KIRKHAM


Mac ’n’ cheese with ham and pickled onions STYLING: MORAG FARQUHAR. FOOD STYLING: AMBER DE FLORIO


macaroni 200g butter 2 tbsp leeks 2, white and very pale green parts only, washed and finely chopped plain flour 2 tbsp whole milk 500ml dijon mustard 3 tsp emmental 100g, grated mature cheddar 100g, grated blue cheese 50g, crumbled cooked ham 150g, chopped pickled onions diced to make 2 tbsp

cornichons diced to make 2 tbsp GARLIC BREAD TOPPING day-old bread 3 slices (about 30g) garlic ½ a clove, crushed butter 2 tbsp, melted parmesan 30g, grated • Cook the macaroni until al dente, then drain, rinse under cold water and drain again. • Melt the butter in a pan and fry the leeks for 7-10 minutes or until really soft. Stir in the flour and cook for 3-4 minutes or until well combined. Gradually stir in the milk, then 2 tsp of the mustard. Stir in the cheeses until melted, then tip in the macaroni and mix well.

• In a bowl, mix together the chopped ham, pickled onions and cornichons with the remaining dijon mustard. • Whizz the bread in a food processor into rough breadcrumbs then toss with the remaining garlic bread topping ingredients. • Heat the oven to 180C/fan 160C/gas 4. Pour 1/2 the macaroni mixture into an ovenproof baking dish. Spoon over the ham mix followed by the remaining mac. Scatter over the garlic bread topping and bake for 30 minutes until golden and bubbling. PER SERVING (6) 531 KCALS | FAT 29.2G SATURATES 17.6G | CARBS 37.7G | SUGARS 6.6G FIBRE 3.8G | PROTEIN 27.5G | SALT 2G Christmas 2018 45

Turkey sage cannelloni p48

46 Christmas 2018


Caramelised onion, sprout and bacon hash with chilli fried eggs 30 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY |


bacon lardons 200g butter 100g onions 2, thinly sliced cooked brussels sprouts 350g roast parsnips 350g, cut into chunky pieces frozen peas 100g eggs 4 dried chilli flakes ½ tsp roquefort 75g, crumbled into chunky pieces • Tip the lardons into a large cold frying pan and cook over a medium heat until the fat has rendered and the bacon’s really crisp. Use a slotted spoon to scoop out onto a plate. Reduce the heat to low and add 1/2 the butter, the onions and a large pinch of salt, and fry gently for 30 minutes until really soft. Turn up the heat, add the sprouts and parsnips, and fry for 10-15 minutes or until everything is golden and crisp. • Tip the peas into a bowl and pour over a kettle of boiling water, leave for 1 minute then drain well and tip into a bowl. Use a fork to gently crush the peas with a pinch of salt. Stir the peas into the veg mixture with the crispy lardons and toss until heated through. Season and keep warm. • Heat the remaining butter in a frying pan over a medium-high heat and crack in the eggs. Sprinkle with the chilli flakes and baste with the butter for 2-3 minutes until the edges are crisping and the whites have set. • Add the roquefort to the hash and gently stir through. Divide the hash between plates, add an egg on top of each and serve. PER SERVING 669 KCALS | FAT 50.6G SATURATES 24.6G | CARBS 24.6G | SUGARS 16.4G FIBRE 10.1G | PROTEIN 23.8G | SALT 3G

Christmas 2018


Refried smashed roasties with green harissa and yogurt

Turkey sage cannelloni

Bread sauce and stuffing croquettes





Use 650g of left-over bread sauce or make it using the recipe below.


natural yogurt 100g garlic ½ a clove, crushed, plus 2 cloves, bashed lemon ½, juiced butter 2 tbsp vegetable oil 1 tbsp roast potatoes 750g cumin seeds 1 tsp ground turmeric ½ tsp black mustard seeds 1 tsp GREEN HARISSA cumin seeds 1 tsp coriander seeds 2 tsp spring onions 3, roughly chopped jalapeños 2, deseeded and roughly chopped coriander ½ a bunch, roughly chopped flat-leaf parsley ½ a bunch, roughly chopped garlic 1 clove, roughly chopped lemon 1, zested and juiced extra-virgin olive oil 4 tbsp • To make the green harissa, toast the cumin and coriander seeds in a pan until fragrant, then tip into a mortar. Cool, crush lightly, then tip into a small blender or food processor. • Add the spring onions, jalapeños, coriander, parsley, garlic, lemon zest and juice, oil and a little seasoning, and whizz until smooth. • Mix the yogurt, crushed garlic, lemon juice and a little seasoning, loosening with a splash of water if it’s too thick. • Heat the butter and vegetable oil in a large frying pan. Put the roast potatoes onto a large chopping board and use the flat side of a large knife to squash each one. Add the cumin seeds, turmeric, mustard seeds and bashed garlic to the pan, and cook for 1 minute, then add the potatoes and toss well. Cook over a medium-high heat for 10-15 minutes or until the potatoes are really crisp. • Scoop out and discard the garlic cloves, then season the roasties well. Tip onto a serving platter and spoon over lots of the green harissa and yogurt to serve. PER SERVING 534 KCALS | FAT 32.3G SATURATES 7G | CARBS 49.9G | SUGARS 4.7G FIBRE 6.5G | PROTEIN 7.6G | SALT 0G

48 Christmas 2018


olive oil 2 tbsp sausagemeat, skinned chipolatas or skinned sausages 200g onion 1, chopped garlic 2 cloves, crushed butternut squash 150g, peeled and cut into small dice plain flour 1 tbsp dry sherry 2 tbsp chicken stock 250ml sage a handful, chopped cooked turkey 200g, chopped fresh lasagne sheets 225g BÉCHAMEL butter 2 tbsp, plus extra for the dish plain flour 2 tbsp whole milk 350ml manchego 100g, grated • Heat the oil in a pan and cook the sausagemeat, breaking it up into small bits. Season, then cook until golden and a little crisp. Add the onion and cook until softened. Add the garlic and cook for 2 minutes, then stir in the squash and cook for a few minutes until starting to soften at the edges. • Add the flour and stir in completely. Tip in the sherry, then gradually add the stock and stir until simmering. Put on a lid and cook gently until the squash is just tender. Stir in the sage and turkey. • To make the béchamel, melt the butter, then stir in the flour and cook for 2-3 minutes or until lightly golden. Gradually stir in the milk to make a sauce. Season, then add 60g of the manchego. • Heat the oven to 190C/fan 170C/gas 5. Butter a baking dish, then spoon in a thin layer of béchamel. Cut the lasagne sheets in half widthways, then spoon 1 tbsp of the turkey mix over each sheet before rolling up to make a cannelloni. Line up the cannelloni join-side down in the dish. Spoon over the rest of the béchamel then scatter over the remaining manchego. Bake for 25-30 minutes or until golden and bubbling. PER SERVING 777 KCALS | FAT 40.3G SATURATES 19.2G | CARBS 56.8G | SUGARS 9.8G FIBRE 5.5G | PROTEIN 42G | SALT 1.5G

cooked stuffing 200g, crumbled plain flour 50g, seasoned eggs 2, beaten panko breadcrumbs 100g cranberry sauce 2 tbsp chilli jam 2 tbsp vegetable oil for deep-frying BREAD SAUCE onion 1, peeled cloves 6 bay leaves 2 black peppercorns 6 nutmeg a good grating garlic 2 cloves, peeled whole milk 400ml double cream 100ml white breadcrumbs 150g butter 2 tbsp • To make the bread sauce, stud the onion with the cloves and put in a pan with the bay, peppercorns, nutmeg, garlic, milk and cream. Bring very slowly to a simmer, remove from the heat, cover and leave to infuse for 1 hour. Strain the milk into a new pan and add the breadcrumbs, butter and lots of seasoning. Simmer very gently, stirring regularly, for 20 minutes until very thick. Pour into a container, cover and cool. Stir through the crumbled stuffing, then chill completely. • Put the flour, egg and breadcrumbs into separate shallow bowls. Take a heaped tbsp of the bread sauce and, using slightly wet hands, shape into the size of a golf ball. Roll in the seasoned flour, then into the beaten egg, then coat well in the breadcrumbs. Repeat with the remaining mixture. • Mix together the cranberry sauce and chilli jam in a bowl to make a dipping sauce. • -PSS H WHU UV TVYL [OHU Н M\SS ^P[O [OL VPS HUK heat to 180C or until a cube of bread browns in 30 seconds. Fry the balls for 2-3 minutes, in batches, until golden and crisp, then drain well on kitchen paper, season with flaky sea salt and keep warm in a low oven while you fry the rest. Serve with the sauce. PER SERVING 533 KCALS | FAT 33G SATURATES 12.4G | CARBS 45.4G | SUGARS 8.6G FIBRE 1.8G | PROTEIN 12.6G | SALT 1G


Christmas 2018


Loaded spiced turkey naan 40 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY

curry paste (any kind will do) 1 tbsp natural yogurt 4 tbsp cooked turkey 200g, cut into large chunks ground turmeric ¼ tsp mint sauce 1 tsp naan breads 2 mango chutney 3 tbsp red onion a few thin slices tomato 1, chopped mint leaves to serve (optional) PEA RELISH frozen peas 100g, defrosted spring onions 3, finely chopped mint a handful of leaves red chilli ½, finely chopped groundnut oil 1 tsp lemon juice a squeeze • Mix the curry paste and 1 tbsp of the yogurt in a bowl, then mix the turkey in and leave for 10 minutes. • In another bowl, mix the remaining yogurt with the turmeric and mint sauce. • To make the pea relish, toss all of the ingredients together in a bowl with lots of seasoning. • Warm the naan breads in the oven following pack instructions. • Spread the turkey on a baking sheet and grill on high until a little charred and heated through. • Put the naans on plates and spread over the mango chutney. Top with the turkey, onion, tomato and pea relish, then drizzle with the minty yogurt. Finish with mint leaves sprinkled on top, if you like. PER SERVING 835 KCALS | FAT 19.7G SATURATES 4.2G | CARBS 103.4G | SUGARS 27.7G FIBRE 9.2G | PROTEIN 56.3G | SALT 2.8G

50 Christmas 2018

Try something

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get it right

roast turkey It’s the showstopping star of the Christmas dining table. Here’s how to cook it perfectly on the big day



Christmas 2018



here’s a wealth of confusing, contradictory information out there about how to cook the perfect bird – I’ve even heard of people putting a duvet over their turkey while it rests. Forget all that nonsense. This foolproof recipe will ensure you’ll be presenting a delicious, gorgeously juicy turkey to a very appreciative Christmas Day crowd. And for even more great tips – such as which bird to buy and how to carve – head to


whole turkey (about 5kg), giblets saved for stock unsalted butter 200g, softened fine sea salt 1 tbsp black peppercorns ground to make 2 tsp onions 3, thickly sliced

• The night before cooking, remove the turkey from the fridge (this is a good time to check that it’s thoroughly defrosted). Starting from the neck end of the turkey, use your hand to gently prise the skin away from the meat, working your way all the way down the breasts so you have a large pocket. Season the butter, then push ¾ of it into the pocket and spread so the butter is evenly covering the breasts. Spread the remaining butter over the outside of the legs and breasts. • Mix the sea salt with the black pepper, then sprinkle evenly all over the turkey, both inside and out. Put back in the fridge, uncovered, and leave overnight. • Remove the turkey from the fridge at least an hour before cooking. Heat the oven to 220C/fan 200C/gas 7. To calculate the cooking time, allow 30 minutes per kilo plus 30 minutes extra – so a 5kg turkey will take three hours in total. • Put the sliced onions into the bottom of a roasting tin, put a rack over them, followed by the turkey. Pour 300ml of boiling water into the base of the tin and cover the whole

thing with a double layer of foil. Make sure that it’s well sealed around the edges. Put the tray in the oven and cook for 30 minutes, then reduce the temperature to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6 for the remaining cooking time. • After 1½ hours, remove the foil and cook uncovered for the remaining time until really crisp. To test whether the turkey is cooked, insert a skewer or knife blade into the point where the thigh joins the breast — the juice should run clear. If it is pink, cook it for another 20 minutes and test again. Alternatively, insert a digital thermometer into the thickest point – it’s cooked when it reads 70C. • Remove from the oven, move the bird and onions onto a serving platter and cover with foil to rest for 45 minutes. Strain the juices at the bottom of the tin into a large jug to settle, then make the ultimate turkey gravy (opposite) to serve alongside.

perfect turkey techniques BUTTER Putting butter under the skin of the breast of the turkey keeps the meat moist while it cooks. The breast is the leanest muscle on the bird and most liable to dry out – as the butter melts it will baste this white meat.

SALTING Dry brining – rubbing salt all over the turkey and then leaving it to rest overnight – helps to break down tough muscle proteins, resulting in tender, deeply seasoned meat, and also crispier skin. It works because the salt draws out the meat juices through osmosis, the salt then dissolves in these juices, and this brine is then reabsorbed into the meat.

54 Christmas 2018

STORAGE If you can, leave the turkey uncovered in the fridge overnight before cooking. Modern fridges are designed to be as moisture-free as possible, so being uncovered will help dry out the turkey’s skin and ensure it crisps up during roasting.

FOIL TENT Cooking the turkey under a foil tent allows it to steam in its own juices, resulting in more tender meat. Because the steam has nowhere to escape, it will ensure the meat stays moist as it cooks.

RESTING Resting allows the juices that have been forced to the middle of the bird by the heat of the oven to redistribute back outwards meaning juicy meat throughout.



estaurants can spend several days making glossy sauces and gravies. That’s not necessary at home but this recipe, using a stock made with lots of gelatin-rich chicken wings, and then gently simmering until reduced, will result in the best gravy you’ve ever made.

The ultimate turkey gravy 4 HOURS | SERVES 8 | EASY

Every good gravy starts with great stock. If you want to make this ahead, you can leave out the giblets, freeze and defrost on the day. turkey fat 3 tbsp (see method, opposite) plain flour 3 tbsp STOCK turkey giblets roughly chopped (optional) chicken wings 1.5kg vegetable oil 2 tbsp onion 1, roughly chopped carrots 2, roughly chopped celery 2 sticks, roughly chopped garlic 1 bulb, halved horizontally bay leaf 1 thyme a few sprigs white wine 300ml • Heat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6. Spread the giblets and wings between 2 roasting trays, ensuring they aren’t overcrowded. Roast in the oven for 1 hour, turning halfway, until really caramelised. • Heat the vegetable oil in a large pan over a medium-high heat. Cook the onion, carrots, celery and garlic for 10-15 minutes or until well caramelised. Tip in the bay, thyme and wine, and bubble for a few minutes, scraping any sticky bits off the bottom of the pan.

• Tip in the giblets, chicken wings and any left-over fat, scraping the trays really well. If you can’t get the crusty bits off the roasting trays, tip in 150ml of water to each, put back into the oven for 10 minutes, then remove and all the crusty bits will come off easily. • Pour 2.5 litres of water into the pan and simmer gently for 1 hour 30 minutes. • Pour into a large, wide pan through a fine metal sieve or muslin, a ladleful at a time, pushing all of the juices through. Simmer gently for another 1 hour 30 minutes, skimming regularly, until reduced by half. • To make the gravy, put the roasting tin you used to cook the turkey over a medium heat. Skim 3 tbsp of turkey fat from the settled jug of turkey juices and tip into the tin. Add the flour and stir for 4-5 minutes, scraping up all the golden bits from the bottom and sides of the tray until the flour is golden. Add the hot stock and turkey juices, ladle by ladle, stirring in between. Bring to a boil and check for seasoning. Pour into a gravy boat and serve piping hot.

SKIMMING THE STOCK A neat little trick, and the most effective way to skim stock, is to put a ladle in the middle of the large pan and swirl outwards in a spiral, forcing all the fat to the edge, making it easier to scoop out from the sides.

xmas day timeline *This timeline is based on a 5kg turkey (serving 8-10) with Christmas lunch being served at 3pm. THE DAY BEFORE Make the stock for the gravy or defrost if made ahead and frozen. Weigh the turkey, spread the butter underneath the breast skin and season all over with salt and black pepper. Par-boil potatoes and sprouts. Peel and chop any veg. ON THE DAY: 9.30AM Remove the turkey from the fridge to come to room temperature. 10.30AM Heat the oven to 220C/fan 200C/ gas 7. Cover the turkey with foil and put it into the oven. 11AM Turn the oven down to 200C/ fan 180C/gas 6. 12.30PM Remove the foil from the turkey to help crisp up the skin. 1.15PM Put the tray with fat for the roast potatoes into the oven to get hot. 1.30PM Remove the turkey from the oven, put on a carving platter, cover loosely with foil and make the gravy. Add the roasties to the hot tray and put the carrots and parsnips into the oven. 2PM Put pigs in blankets into the oven and fry the sprouts. 2.30PM Carve the turkey and get the gravy piping hot. 3PM Serve up, relax and enjoy!

Christmas 2018


small wonders

Mini baked spuds with fondue dip

Make festive entertaining a cinch with our impressive, easy canapĂŠs Recipes JANINE RATCLIFFE and ADAM BUSH Photograph MIKE ENGLISH

56 Christmas 2018

Heat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6. Toss 750g mini new potatoes with 1 tbsp olive oil and season. Spread out on a baking tray and roast for 20-30 minutes or until tender. Toss with chopped rosemary and dried chilli flakes for the final 10 minutes. To make the fondue dip, put 100g gruyère, 100g emmental, 100ml double cream and a halved garlic clove in a small pan and gently heat until melted. Discard the garlic and serve with the potatoes for dipping. Makes 20.

mini chorizo and cheddar tacos Use a 5cm round cutter to cut small circles from 4 corn tortillas. Brush with oil then sit in the gaps of an upside-down mini muffin tin and bake at 200C/fan 180C/gas 6 for 8 minutes until crisp. Divide 1/2 a tub of guacamole between each shell then top with finely chopped red onion and red chilli. Fry 50g chopped chorizo until crisp and sprinkle over half the tacos. Cut 50g smoked cheddar into tiny dice and sprinkle over the rest. Scatter over chopped coriander to serve. Makes 16.

Szechuan pepper chicken skewers Mix 2 tbsp dark soy sauce, 1 tbsp mirin, 1 tsp crushed szechuan peppercorns, 2 tbsp caster sugar, 2 crushed garlic cloves and 1 tbsp sriracha in a bowl. Cut 500g skinless chicken thigh fillets into 3-4cm pieces and marinate for 2 hours. Push bite-sized pieces of chicken onto skewers, put on a baking sheet and roast at 200C/fan 180C/gas 6 for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, gently reduce the left-over sauce in a pan until sticky, then glaze the chicken skewers with this for another 5 minutes until charred and sticky. Sprinkle over toasted sesame seeds to serve. Makes 12.

COOK caviar and crème fraîche crisps Tip a large bag of salted crisps into a bowl, spoon a pot of crème fraîche into another bowl with a serving spoon, open a jar of lumpfish or salmon caviar and let people help themselves. Makes 40.

Miso baby aubergines Cut 500g baby aubergines in ½ lengthways, lightly score and brush with a little vegetable oil. Heat a frying pan to medium-hot and cook, cut-side down, for 4-5 minutes or until really caramelised and soft. Flip and cook for a minute. Heat the grill to high. Mix together 75g white miso, 2 tbsp caster sugar, 1 tbsp rice vinegar, 2 tbsp grated ginger and 3 crushed garlic cloves. Put the aubergine halves cut-side up on a baking tray, spoon over all of the miso sauce and grill for 5 minutes until charred and the aubergines are really soft. Makes 20.

Pickled watermelon with feta Cut 1 small watermelon into 2cm cubes. Mix 1 tsp honey, 2 tbsp white wine vinegar, a pinch of dried chilli flakes and a pinch of salt. Add the melon and toss. Chill for 30 minutes. Cut a pack of feta into 2cm cubes. Stick the cubes of watermelon and feta onto cocktail sticks with a leaf of coriander. Sprinkle with sumac to serve. Makes 20.

Beetroot ‘caviar’ blinis Finely dice 2 cooked beetroots and put in a bowl with 1 finely chopped shallot and 1 tsp sherry vinegar. Mix 4 tbsp crème fraîche and 4 tbsp soft cheese, and stir in 1 tbsp chopped dill and some seasoning. Top 16 blinis with 1 tsp of the cream mix then spoon over the beetroot and finish with more dill. Makes 16.


merguez sausage rolls Squeeze the meat from 400g of merguez sausages into a bowl and add 2 crushed garlic cloves and a little seasoning. Unroll a pack of ready-rolled puff pastry and cut in 2 lengthways. Take ½ the meat mixture, form it into a long sausage along the longest side and then fold over the pastry to completely enclose. Brush with beaten egg and sprinkle with nigella seeds, then cut into 3cm pieces. Repeat with the remaining meat and pastry, and chill for 20 minutes. Heat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6 and cook the sausage rolls on bakingpaper-lined trays for 15-20 minutes or until crisp and golden. Makes 20. Christmas 2018 57


Kiss a Get creative in th ve season with inspiration from the Meringue Girls and Dr. Oetker

I Sultane nozzle

Meringue Christmas tree decorations grass tip nozzle

shag rug effect

f you’re a keen baker, or a sucker for a sweet treat, you’re likely to be aware of colourful baking duo and Instagram sensations the Meringue Girls, aka Stacey O’Gorman and Alex Hoffler. They shot to fame in 2012 thanks to their irresistible creations, and today have two cookbooks, a long list of high-profile clients and collaborations and more than 160,000 Instagram followers under their belt. Now, Dr. Oetker has teamed up with Alex from the Meringue Girls to bring you the Christmas baking trends you need to know about – and the products that will help you create them. “There are all sorts of trends coming through for Christmas 2018,” says Alex. “One of my favourites is meringue Christmas tree decorations made using a sultane nozzle.” This nozzle produces a party ring shape with a crinkled, shell-like texture, perfect for hanging as festive decorations. “Dr. Oetker’s Food Colour Gels and assortment of sprinkles are perfect for adding bright, bold hues and festive wow factor,” says Alex. “I’m also obsessed with the shag rug effect in different colours of buttercream at the moment – it’s so textured and enticing.” The shag rug effect is simpler to achieve than you might think – all you need is a grass-tip nozzle. Dr. Oetker’s delicious Buttercream Style Icing is convenient and easy to use for this, and can be coloured to your desired shade using its selection of Food Colour Gels. The Meringue Girls are famous for their use of colour and flavour, so what will they be going for this festive season? “We always like to have

a really zingy element to our creations, so we’ll be incorporating fresh or poached fruits alongside traditional flavours to lift recipes – like this Christmas Cookie Cake (pictured right) that we’ve developed for Dr. Oetker,” says Alex. “These are really popular at the moment – we see a lot of numbers for birthdays, but they can also be made into letters or a festive shape or word. Dr. Oetker’s Cocoa Powder gives a rich, dark chocolate cookie, which contrasts against the Vanilla Buttercream Style Icing and really shows off the layers. The final look is all about overloading the top with lots of decorations in different colours, such as meringue kisses, Dr. Oetker Sprinkles and Giant Chocolate Stars and fresh, seasonal fruits. “We love making festive characters, too,” says Alex. “Try your hand at mini snowmen – they’re really simple to make but look really effective. Meringue figurines last well and could also make a lovely homemade gift.”

CHOCOLATE CHRISTMAS TREES Melt 50g Dr. Oetker White Chocolate and add a few drops of Dr. Oetker Green Food Colour Gel. Combine and pour into a piping bag fitted with a narrow nozzle, then place 10 cocktail sticks on a lined tray. Pipe the chocolate over the sticks, starting two thirds of the way down, and continue upwards until you have a tree shape. Chill until set.

Meringue kisses

Meringue snowmen

MERINGUE KISSES Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6 and put 300g caster sugar on a lined baking tray, then put in the oven for 7 minutes. Put the whites of 4 large free-range eggs in a stand mixer and whisk slowly to allow small stabilising bubbles to form, increasing the speed until stiff peaks form. Take the sugar out of the oven and turn the heat down to 100C/80C fan/Âź gas. With the mixer on full speed, slowly spoon in the hot sugar and continue to whisk for 5 minutes or until all the sugar is incorporated. Fit a piping bag with a wide nozzle and paint stripes of Dr. Oetker Red Food Colour Gel onto the inside of the piping bag, then spoon the meringue mixture into the piping bag. Pipe out small kisses onto a lined tray and bake for 35-45 minutes. Turn off the oven and leave in the meringue to cool completely. TIP: To avoid separating egg whites and wasting leftover yolks, you could use Dr. Oetker Egg White Powder in place of fresh eggs.

DR. OETKER HAS ALL YOUR BAKING NEEDS COVERED 72% Extra Dark Chocolate; White Chocolate; Fine Dark Cocoa Powder; Giant Chocolate Stars; Buttercream Style Icing; Glamour & Sparkle; Food Colour Gels

For more Christmas baking inspiration, visit

Make the fu ll recipe at k/Christma s

COOK everyday

Sweet potato wedges with warm hummus p62

60 Christmas 2018

Need a break from the Christmas excess? Let Ylva Bergqvist inspire with these speedy, inventive veggie recipes Recipes YLVA BERGQVIST Photographs LENNART WEIBULL


Vietnamese peanut rice and lemongrass tofu p62

Christmas 2018


Sweet potato wedges with warm hummus

Vietnamese peanut rice and lemongrass tofu

Pasta with tomato sauce and brown caper butter




If you’ve never tried warm hummus, it’s time you did. By warming up the pulses, the hummus gains a rounded, strong garlic flavour. Make a double batch – it keeps for a week in the fridge. sweet potatoes 2 large rapeseed oil or olive oil smoked almonds roughly chopped to make 4 tbsp, to serve coriander leaves to serve pitta breads to serve WARM HUMMUS chickpeas 400g tin garlic 2 cloves tahini 4 tbsp lemon ½, juiced ground cumin 1 tsp RED CABBAGE SALAD red cabbage 250g, thinly sliced pomegranate seeds 200g lemon juice 1 tbsp maple syrup 1 tbsp olive oil 2 tbsp • Heat the oven to 220C/fan 200C/gas 7. Rinse and cut the sweet potatoes into thin wedges (you don’t need to peel them) and put on a baking tray lined with baking paper. Coat generously in oil and season with salt. Roast for 25 minutes, turning halfway, or until the wedges are soft and colouring. • Pour the chickpeas and their water, and the garlic cloves into a bowl, and microwave on high for 4 minutes (or bring to a simmer in a pan). Tip out into a food processor and blend. Add in the tahini, lemon juice and cumin, and blend until it forms a smooth hummus. Drizzle in a little water if necessary to ensure the right consistency, and season with salt. • Mix the cabbage with the pomegranate seeds, then combine the lemon juice, maple syrup and oil, and pour over the cabbage. • Spread the hummus onto 4 plates, and put the wedges and red cabbage salad on top. Sprinkle over the almonds and coriander, and serve with pitta breads. PER SERVING 485 KCALS | FAT 23G SATURATES 2.9G | CARBS 51.7G | SUGARS 27.3G FIBRE 13.7G | PROTEIN 11.1G | SALT 0.2G

62 Christmas 2018

When I think of Vietnamese food, it’s fresh herbs that spring to mind. The coriander in this dish is essential, but ideally you should get the mint and thai basil leaves too.

Fried capers are delicious, especially with brown butter. If you don’t like capers, you can add the brown butter to the tomato sauce and leave them out.

LEMONGRASS TOFU lemongrass stalks 3 garlic 2 cloves, finely chopped red chilli 1, deseeded and finely chopped soy sauce 3 tbsp firm tofu 400g, cut into ½ cm slices rapeseed oil for frying limes ½, juiced, 1, wedged caster sugar 1 tbsp sesame oil 1 tbsp RICE jasmine rice 300g unsalted peanuts 100g, finely chopped caster sugar 1 tbsp salt ¾ tsp SALAD coriander leaves a handful mint leaves a handful thai basil leaves a handful carrot 1 large, grated salad leaves 80g

rigatoni 400g parmesan (or veggie alternative) to serve flat-leaf parsley chopped, to serve TOMATO SAUCE onion 1, diced rapeseed oil for frying garlic 2 cloves, finely chopped dried rosemary 2 tsp tomato purée 1 tbsp plum tomatoes 2 × 400g tins white miso 1 tbsp runny honey 1 tsp BROWN CAPER BUTTER capers 4 tbsp, drained butter 75g

• Remove any tough outer leaves and slice the lemongrass stalks lengthways. Hit the stalks with the handle of a knife and then chop them finely. In a large bowl, mix the garlic, chilli, soy and chopped lemongrass to form a marinade, add the tofu and mix well. • Cook the rice, without any salt, following pack instructions. • For the salad, mix the herbs with the carrot and salad leaves in a large bowl. • Fry the tofu slices in rapeseed oil in a frying pan for 2 minutes on each side or until golden, then remove onto plates. Pour any remaining marinade into the pan. Add the lime juice, sugar, sesame oil and 2 tbsp water, and cook for 1 minute until saucy. • Mix the peanuts with the sugar and salt, then stir through the rice. Top the rice with the tofu, the sauce from the pan and the salad. Serve with lime wedges. PER SERVING 644 KCALS | FAT 23G SATURATES 4G | CARBS 80.8G | SUGARS 16.3G FIBRE 4.1G | PROTEIN 26.3G | SALT 2.5G

• Cook the pasta in a large pan of boiling salted water following pack instructions. • Meanwhile, in another large pan, fry the onion in a splash of rapeseed oil over a low-medium heat for 5 minutes or until soft. Add the garlic, rosemary and tomato purée, and fry for 1 minute. Add the tomatoes and simmer for 10-15 minutes, breaking the tomatoes apart using a wooden spoon. • Brown the capers in a small frying pan with a knob of the butter until they open up like small flowers, then tip them into a bowl. Put the rest of the butter in the frying pan and cook until it turns light brown and smells nutty. Pour the butter over the capers. • Season the tomato sauce with the miso, honey and a little seasoning. • Drain the pasta, saving 100ml of cooking water. Mix the pasta with the tomato sauce and a little of the cooking water. Plate up the pasta, pouring the caper butter on top. Grate over a generous amount of cheese and then sprinkle chopped parsley on top. PER SERVING 589 KCALS | FAT 18.4G SATURATES 10.1G | CARBS 85.6G | SUGARS 13.5G FIBRE 8.1G | PROTEIN 16.2G | SALT 1.3G


Christmas 2018


Halloumi skewers and cauliflower tabbouleh with pistachios 30 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY |


halloumi 1 block (about 220g) olive oil for frying Little Gem or green salad leaves 200g CAULIFLOWER TABBOULEH cauliflower 600g lemon ½, juiced mild olive oil 4 tbsp tomatoes 2, deseeded and finely chopped basil or mint a large bunch, leaves chopped flat-leaf parsley a bunch, roughly chopped pistachios 75g, roughly chopped spring onions 2, thinly sliced TOMATO SAUCE tomatoes 2, halved olive oil 2 tbsp crème fraîche or natural yogurt 200g sambal oelek or sriracha ½ tsp (see cook’s notes) ground cumin 1 tsp

Vegetable stew with saffron, curry and parmesan cream 30 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY

This stew contains an unusual optional ingredient – parmesan rind – which provides an umami flavour. The miso also provides umami but is also optional. garlic 4 cloves onion 1, diced olive oil or butter for frying celeriac 200g, peeled and diced potatoes 3 peeled and cut into 1cm dice sweet potato 500g, peeled and cut into 1cm dice saffron a pinch medium or mild curry powder 2 tsp cherry tomatoes 2 × 400g tins parmesan rind (optional) butter beans 400g tin, rinsed and drained multigrain bread 4 slices mixed herbs such as flat-leaf parsley, basil or dill a handful, chopped miso 1 tbsp (optional) runny honey 1 tsp (optional) dried chilli flakes a pinch PARMESAN CREAM mayonnaise 100g parmesan finely grated to make 4 tbsp

• Peel the garlic, save one clove, and finely chop the remainder. Fry the onion in oil or butter in a pan over a low-medium heat for 5 minutes or until soft. Add the celeriac and chopped garlic, and raise the heat. Fry for a few minutes while stirring. • Add the potatoes, spices, tomatoes, cheese rind (if using) and 600ml of water, and bubble with a lid on for 10-15 minutes. Add the beans and simmer for 10-15 minutes or until the potatoes are tender. • Meanwhile, cut the remaining garlic clove in half and rub the cut edges on the bread slices. Sprinkle the herbs on top and fry the bread in oil or butter in a frying pan, until golden • Combine the mayonnaise and parmesan in a bowl to make the parmesan cream. • Remove the cheese rind from the stew and season with miso, honey, chilli flakes and some seasoning. Serve the stew with the fried bread and parmesan cream.

• Cut the cauliflower into chunks and pulse the florets and stalk in a food processor (or grate coarsely using a grater) until the size of grains of rice. Mix the lemon juice and olive oil, pour over the cauliflower, season and toss. • For the sauce, fry the tomatoes in the oil over a high heat in a frying pan, cut-side down, until they have softened and are a little charred. Leave to cool a little and then roughly chop. Mix with the crème fraîche, sambal oelek, cumin and some seasoning. • For the tabbouleh, mix the tomatoes, herbs, pistachios, spring onions and cauliflower grains. • Cut the halloumi into batons and put them on skewers small enough to fit in a frying pan (alternatively, fry the cheese separately first, then put on the skewers). Heat a little oil in a frying pan and fry for about 5 minutes, turning, until golden on all sides. • Put the salad leaves on a plate and add the tabbouleh and halloumi skewers on top. Serve with the tomato sauce.



COOK’S NOTES Sambal oelek is an Indonesian spice paste that is available from Waitrose and Asian supermarkets.

64 Christmas 2018


Christmas 2018


COOK Okonomiyaki with avocado 25 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY |


In Japan, the dish is often served with mayonnaise and a special okonomiyaki sauce, but if you want a lighter topping, you can try gari (pickled ginger) and yogurt flavoured with wasabi. white miso 1½ tbsp eggs 3 plain flour 90g hispi cabbage or tender white cabbage 300g, finely shredded leeks or spring onions 100g, finely sliced panko breadcrumbs 100g oil for frying BBQ SAUCE WITH SESAME OIL barbecue sauce 2 tbsp tomato ketchup 1 tbsp sesame oil 1/2 tsp runny honey 1 tsp ACCOMPANIMENTS mayonnaise 2 tbsp caster sugar a pinch avocado 1 small, thinly sliced salad leaves 80g • Mix the miso, eggs and 150ml cold water in a bowl. Add the flour and whisk into a smooth batter. Add the cabbage, leeks or spring onions and breadcrumbs, mixing in a little more water if the batter gets very stiff. • Heat a lidded frying pan with a little oil over a medium heat and spoon in 1/2 the batter. Spread the batter around so that the cabbage at the edges doesn’t burn easily and a round pancake forms. Fry for 5 minutes with the lid on until the cabbage has taken on colour and the pancake is beginning to solidify. Flip and fry for another 5 minutes or until the pancake is solid and has taken on colour. Keep the okonomiyaki warm in a low oven while you fry the other. • Mix the mayo with the sugar and a little water so that it forms a drizzle-able sauce. • Combine the ingredients for the sauce, adjusting the quantity of honey depending on how sweet the barbecue sauce is. • Drizzle the sweetened mayo and BBQ sauce over the okonomiyaki. Top with avocado slices and salad leaves to serve. PER SERVING 926 KCALS | FAT 46.8G SATURATES 6.5G | CARBS 92.8G | SUGARS 20.2G FIBRE 11.8G | PROTEIN 27.5G | SALT 2.6G

66 Christmas 2018

Recipes extracted from 30 Minute Vegetarian by Ylva Bergqvist (£16.99, Hardie Grant).




Gently spiced chicken and vegetable soup with coconut and ginger p72

Warm the cockles with these gorgeous, seasonal, healthy soups Recipes and photographs RYLAND PETERS & SMALL Christmas 2018


Creamy leek and potato soup with ham hock 30 MINUTES | SERVES 6-8 | EASY |


This delicious, creamy soup is wonderfully comforting. If you have any left-over ham hock, tear it into bite-sized pieces and add it to the soup before seasoning, and simmer a little while to infuse the flavours. Alternatively, just scatter some good chopped ham on top as a garnish. butter 50g leeks 4, whites only, sliced potatoes 4, peeled and diced chicken or vegetable stock 800ml milk 400ml double cream a dash cooked ham shredded (optional)

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TO GARNISH flat-leaf parsley a small handful, chopped chives a small handful, chopped • Melt the butter in a large pan and add the leeks and potatoes. Cook for a few minutes, until the butter has been absorbed and the vegetables have softened. Pour in the stock and milk, and simmer for 15-20 minutes or until the potatoes and leeks are tender. Take the pan off the heat and use a stick blender to blend the soup until it is silky smooth. Stir in the cream, add the ham, if using, and season. • Garnish with fresh herbs, to serve. PER SERVING 284 KCALS | FAT 13.2G SATURATES 7.7G | CARBS 21.9G | SUGARS 5.4G FIBRE 4.7G | PROTEIN 17G | SALT 1.4G


Beef goulash soup with soured cream p72

Christmas 2018


Gently spiced chicken and vegetable soup with coconut and ginger 15 MINUTES | SERVES 6 | EASY |


Close your eyes when you taste this lovely broth and the fresh lime and coconut flavours will transport you to a beach café in Thailand. vegetable oil 2 tbsp garlic 1 clove, crushed ginger 3cm piece, finely grated red chilli 1, finely chopped spring onions 6-7, finely sliced, whites and greens separated red and green peppers 1 of each, finely sliced carrots 4, very finely sliced celery 2 sticks, very finely sliced coconut milk 300ml vegetable stock 750ml tomato purée 1 tbsp cooked chicken 500g, shredded lime juice a squeeze fish sauce a splash coriander a handful, chopped sugar snap peas a small handful, sliced lengthways chilli oil and lime wedges to serve (optional) • Put the vegetable oil in a large lidded pan over a high heat. Add the garlic, ginger, chilli and spring onion whites. Toss around the pan for a few seconds, then add the peppers, carrots and celery, followed by the coconut milk and stock. Stir in the tomato purée and add the cooked chicken, put on the lid and simmer for a few minutes, until the vegetables are wilted and the chicken is heated through. Season, adding the lime juice, fish sauce and the chopped coriander. • Just before you are ready to serve, toss in the sugar snap peas and the sliced spring onion greens. Ladle the soup into bowls and serve drizzled with a little chilli oil and with lime wedges on the side, if you like. PER SERVING 357 KCALS | FAT 23.3G SATURATES 10.5G | CARBS 9.9G | SUGARS 8.4G FIBRE 4.8G | PROTEIN 24.5G | SALT 0.7G



This is also delicious made with pork – use a cut such as shoulder and cut it into large chunks. olive oil for frying smoked streaky bacon 100g, finely chopped braising steak or beef shin 1kg, cut into 2.5cm chunks plain flour 2 heaped tbsp onions 2 large, thinly sliced red peppers 2, sliced garlic 3 cloves, crushed juniper berries 5, crushed bay leaves 2 sweet smoked paprika 1 tbsp hot smoked paprika ½ tbsp caraway seeds 2 tsp tomato purée 2 tbsp red wine vinegar 1 tbsp beef stock 1.2 litres waxy potatoes 300g, cut into chunks beetroots 2, cut into chunks flat-leaf parsley chopped, to serve soured cream to serve • Heat a generous glug of olive oil in a casserole or large lidded pan and fry the bacon over a medium heat until starting to colour. Remove with a slotted spoon and put aside. • Dust the beef in the flour with plenty of seasoning, then brown in batches over a high heat in the same pan, adding more oil if necessary. Remove and put aside. • Add more oil to the pan and tip in the onions and peppers. Cook for 10 minutes until softened and the onions start to colour. Add the garlic, juniper, bay and spices, and fry for a few minutes before adding the tomato purée, vinegar and stock. • Return the beef and bacon to the pan, and season. Bring to a simmer, then cover and cook for 2-2½ hours or until the beef is starting to become really tender. Add the potatoes and beetroots to the pan, and simmer, with the lid off, for 45 minutes1 hour or until the vegetables are tender. • Stir in the parsley and serve in warmed bowls with generous dollops of soured cream. PER SERVING 499 KCALS | FAT 22.9G SATURATES 8.4G | CARBS 25G | SUGARS 9.4G FIBRE 6.7G | PROTEIN 44.9G | SALT 1.3G

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Beetroot and parsnip soup with horseradish

Beef goulash soup with soured cream



This soup showcases the myriad good properties of beetroot – the versatile crimson queen of vegetables. butter 30g onion 1 small, diced potato 1 small, peeled and diced parsnips 2, diced vegetable stock 800ml beetroots 2 large (or 4 small), peeled and diced double cream and soured cream 50ml of each horseradish sauce 1-2 tbsp ground ginger a pinch crème fraîche to serve edamame beans a handful, cooked chives a small handful, chopped • Melt the butter in a large lidded pan over a gentle heat. Add the onion and cook until beginning to soften, then add the potato and parsnips. Pour in the stock and bring to the boil before adding the beetroots. Cover the pan and simmer for 15 minutes or until all the root vegetables are soft. • Remove the pan from the heat and blend with a stick blender until nearly smooth. The parsnips and potato will purée completely, but the beetroot always remains a little grainy – this only adds to the overall texture of the soup. • Stir in the creams along with the horseradish and ginger, and season. • Ladle into bowls, swirl with a little crème fraîche and sprinkle with edamame beans and chives, if you like. PER SERVING 192 KCALS | FAT 12.1G SATURATES 6.7G | CARBS 14.5G | SUGARS 7.9G FIBRE 4.9G | PROTEIN 3.8G | SALT 0.6G


Christmas 2018




Keep it simple with these delicious and easy veggie and vegan traybakes Recipes LIZ FRANKLIN Photographs STEVE PAINTER


Hasselback squash with chilli maple glaze

Christmas 2018


Cherry tomato, roasted pepper & spinach Bombay eggs 1 HOUR 15 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY |


CHILLI OIL extra-virgin olive oil 100ml dried chilli flakes 1 tbsp BOMBAY EGGS red onions 2, cut into wedges red, yellow and orange peppers 1 of each, cut into strips olive oil 3 tbsp ground coriander 2 tsp ground cumin 2 tsp ground turmeric 1 tsp cherry tomatoes 500g passata 600ml ginger 50g, finely grated caster sugar 1 tbsp dried chilli flakes 1 tsp baby spinach 2-3 big handfuls coriander a large bunch, roughly chopped eggs 4 large greek yogurt 150ml nigella seeds 2 tsp (optional) • Combine the extra-virgin olive oil and chilli flakes in a screw-top jar or bowl. • Heat the oven to 180C/fan 160C/gas 4. Scatter the onions and peppers in a large roasting tin and drizzle with the olive oil. Cook for 20 minutes or until the vegetables have started to soften. Stir in the ground coriander, cumin and turmeric. Return to the oven and cook for a further 10 minutes. • Meanwhile, put the cherry tomatoes into a large bowl and pour in the passata. Stir in the grated ginger, sugar, dried chilli flakes and some seasoning. • Remove the roasting tin from the oven and stir the tomato mixture into the peppers. Return to the oven and bake for a further 30 minutes. Stir in the spinach leaves and 1/2 the coriander. Make 4 shallow indentations in the mixture and crack an egg into each. Return to the oven and cook for 5-7 minutes or until the eggs are just set. Remove from the oven and drizzle over the yogurt. Scatter over the remaining coriander, add a sprinkling of nigella seeds, if using, and then drizzle with the chilli oil. Serve with bread, if you like. PER SERVING 471 KCALS | FAT 30G SATURATES 7G | CARBS 28.6G | SUGARS 26.5G FIBRE 9.3G | PROTEIN 17G | SALT 0.5G

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Roasted pepper, sweetcorn & black-eyed bean wraps with chipotle dressing & avocado spread p78

Christmas 2018


Hasselback squash with chilli maple glaze 1 HOUR | SERVES 3-4 | EASY |

A great trick for getting the thin slices without cutting all the way through is to lay chopsticks along both lengths of the squash, so that the knife will go no further once it reaches the sticks. coquina or butternut squash 1 vegetable oil for the tray maple syrup 50ml ketjap manis 20ml (see cook’s notes) dark soy sauce 25ml dried chilli flakes 1 tsp spring onions 4, sliced diagonally coriander a handful, roughly chopped • Heat the oven to 190C/fan 170C/gas 5. Cut the squash in half from base to top, and scoop out the seeds. Remove the peel using a vegetable peeler. Cut each half widthways into thin slices, stopping a little way short of cutting all the way through so that the squash halves are still intact. • Lay them on a lightly oiled baking tray. Mix together the maple syrup, soy sauces and dried chilli flakes, and brush generously over the squash halves, making sure to get plenty in between each slice. • Bake for 45-50 minutes, basting regularly, or until the squash is cooked through and has a shiny glaze. • Transfer to a platter and scatter over the spring onions and coriander, to serve. PER SERVING 121 KCALS | FAT 0.4G SATURATES 0G | CARBS 24.7G | SUGARS 17.5G FIBRE 4G | PROTEIN 2.5G | SALT 1.2G

COOK’S NOTES Ketjap manis is a sweetened, spiced soy sauce from Indonesia and is available from large supermarkets.

Roasted pepper, sweetcorn & black-eyed bean wraps with chipotle dressing & avocado spread 30 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY |


red and orange peppers 2 of each, cut into strips olive oil 3 tbsp sweetcorn 2 cobs (or use a drained 195g tin) black-eyed beans 400g tin avocados 2 ripe lime 1, juiced red chilli 1 small, deseeded and finely chopped flour tortillas 4 spring onions a large bunch, sliced coriander a small bunch soured cream to serve DRESSING chipotle paste 2 tbsp olive oil 2 tbsp red wine vinegar 1 tbsp caster sugar 2 tsp • Heat the oven to 190C/fan 170C/gas 5. Scatter the peppers onto a baking tray, drizzle over the oil and roast for 15 minutes, until they are starting to soften and char. Cut the kernels from the sweetcorn cobs, add them to the tray with the pepper strips and cook for a further 10 minutes. Drain and rinse the beans, and add them to the tray to warm through for 4-5 minutes. • Meanwhile, mash the avocados in a bowl and add the lime juice and chopped chilli, and season. • For the dressing, whisk the chipotle paste, oil, vinegar and sugar, and season to taste. • Spread each of the tortillas with some of the avocado spread and pile with some of the pepper mixture. Drizzle over some of the dressing, and scatter with a few chopped spring onions and some coriander leaves. Roll up and serve with soured cream. PER SERVING 580 KCALS | FAT 25.3G SATURATES 5.4G | CARBS 65.3G | SUGARS 12.9G FIBRE 14.3G | PROTEIN 15.7G | SALT 1G

Ethiopian lentil casserole 1 HOUR | SERVES 4 | EASY LC

Try not to frown at the idea of adding tomato ketchup to tomato-based dishes – good-quality ketchup boosts the sweetness that can often be lacking in tinned tomatoes and passata. onion 1, sliced garlic 2 cloves, chopped olive oil 4 tbsp berbere spice mix 2 tbsp (see cook’s notes) carrots 2 large, cut into bite-sized chunks sweet potato 1 large (about 250g), peeled and cut into bite-sized chunks chopped tomatoes 400g tin ginger 4cm piece, grated passata 450ml strong vegetable stock 800ml tomato ketchup 2 tbsp dried red lentils 150g, rinsed baby spinach a large handful flat-leaf parsley a bunch, chopped chilli oil (see recipe on page 76) to serve (optional) • Heat the oven to 190C/fan 170C/gas 5. Scatter the onion over the base of a deep roasting tin. Add the garlic, drizzle everything with the olive oil and scatter over the berbere spice mix. Give it a good stir to coat everything and cook for 10 minutes. • Remove the roasting tin from the oven and toss in the carrots and sweet potato. Pour in the chopped tomatoes and stir in the grated ginger. Add the passata, stock and tomato ketchup. Stir in the lentils, cover with foil and cook for 45-50 minutes or until the vegetables and lentils are soft and the casserole thickened. • Stir in the spinach leaves and 1/2 the parsley, and return the tin to the oven, uncovered, for a further 7-10 minutes. Serve with a scattering of parsley and chilli oil, if you like. PER SERVING 412 KCALS | FAT 13.2G SATURATES 1.9G | CARBS 52.6G | SUGARS 22.1G FIBRE 11.3G | PROTEIN 15G | SALT 0.9G

COOK’S NOTES Berbere spice mix is an Ethiopian blend that includes chilli, cumin, coriander, fenugreek and allspice. We used Bart’s, available from large supermarkets.

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Recipes extracted from Vegetarian Sheet Pan Cooking by Liz Franklin (£9.99, Ryland Peters & Small) Christmas 2018


ONE AY Chri mas din er

Not cooking for a crowd? n-one includes every festive favourite (and there’s much less washing-up!) One-tray Christmas dinner 2 HOURS 30 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY

This recipe will serve at least two (if not three) – use up the leftovers in Boxing Day bubble ’n’ squeak, or the toastie on p86. duck fat 3 tbsp turkey leg 1 thyme a few sprigs Maris Piper potatoes 400g, peeled and cut into 4cm cubes turkey breast 1 small (about 750g), skin on baby parsnips 150g, halved baby rainbow carrots 150g pigs in blankets 250g stuffing balls 6 brussels sprouts 100g, halved cranberry sauce to serve BACON AND MARSALA GRAVY duck fat 1 tbsp streaky bacon 6 rashers, finely chopped plain flour 3 tbsp marsala 150ml chicken stock 500ml • Heat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6. Put 3 tbsp duck fat into a large shallow roasting tin, then into the oven to heat. • Season the turkey leg heavily, and sprinkle with the thyme leaves. Add to the tray, toss in the duck fat, then roast for 30 minutes. • Meanwhile, put the potatoes into a large pan of lightly salted cold water, bring to the boil and simmer for 7 minutes, then drain

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really well. After the 30 minutes is up, tip the potatoes into the tray and toss them in the fat. Season the turkey breast heavily and add this to the tray, and roast for 20 minutes. Give all the potatoes a turn and add the parsnips and carrots, toss well in the duck fat and roast for another 15 minutes. • Tip in the pigs in blankets, stuffing balls and brussels sprouts. Cook for 25 minutes. • For the gravy, put the duck fat and bacon into a pan, and cook until really crisp and the fat has rendered. Scoop out onto a plate. Tip in the flour and cook for a few minutes, stirring, until nutty brown. Mix the marsala and chicken stock together, and slowly add to the flour while whisking. Season and simmer for 15 minutes until thickened, then tip in the bacon bits and keep warm. • Remove the turkey leg and breast to a plate, and cover loosely with foil to rest for 15 minutes. • Either keep cooking the veg until everything is golden and crisp or, if ready, turn the oven down to very low, cover with foil and keep warm. • Joint the leg and slice the breast, then serve with the veg, gravy and cranberry sauce, if you like. PER SERVING 1,773 KCALS | FAT 91.8G SATURATES 29.7G | CARBS 84G | SUGARS 16.6G FIBRE 10.9G | PROTEIN 138.5G | SALT 4.4G




Christmas 2018


SENSATIONAL SIDES Power up your Christmas table this year with these awesome accompaniments – from gorgeous spuds to sprouts with a spicy kick

’Nduja-fried sprouts 30 MINUTES | SERVES 6 | EASY |


brussels sprouts 600g olive oil 2 tbsp ’nduja 75g, crumbled lemon juice a squeeze • Remove any dirty and tough outer leaves from the sprouts, trim the bottoms slightly

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and then cut in half through the bases. Bring a large pan of lightly salted water to the boil and have a large bowl of iced water to hand. Blanch the sprouts for 2 minutes or until just tender when squeezed. Drain, then tip into the iced water. Chill for 15 minutes until completely cold, then drain again. This can be done the day before and then kept in the fridge until ready to use. • Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan and

add the sprouts. Fry over a high heat for 10 minutes until the sprouts are golden and crisp. Stir in the ’nduja and cook for 5 minutes, tossing, until the sprouts are well coated. Squeeze over the lemon juice to serve. PER SERVING 145 KCALS | FAT 11.1G SATURATES 3G | CARBS 3.6G | SUGARS 2.9G FIBRE 4.1G | PROTEIN 5.7G | SALT 0.4G



COOK Pommes Anna 1 HOUR | SERVES 6 | EASY |


Charlotte potatoes 750g butter 100g garlic 2 cloves, crushed pink peppercorns 1 tsp, crushed, plus extra to season • Heat the oven to 190C/fan 170C/gas 5. Line 2 baking sheets with baking paper and use a pencil to draw 3 x 12cm circles on each piece of paper, then flip the paper over. • Use a mandolin or very sharp knife to cut the potatoes into 2-3mm slices. Put the potato slices into a large bowl of cold water to soak for 20-30 minutes, refreshing the water halfway – this will help to remove some of the starch. • Meanwhile, put the butter into a small pan and gently melt. Once foaming, add the garlic and peppercorns, cook for 1 minute then remove from the heat. Cool slightly. • Drain the potatoes really well and pat dry with kitchen paper. Form a base layer of potato slices, slightly overlapping each (using the circles you drew as a guide), season and brush liberally with the butter. Repeat, but slightly smaller than the base layer, so that it forms into a pyramid shape. At this stage you can cover and chill, and bake later. • Sprinkle with a few extra crushed pink peppercorns, then bake for 45 minutes until really golden and the potatoes are tender to the point of a knife. PER SERVING 235 KCALS | FAT 13.8G SATURATES 8.7G | CARBS 23.6G | SUGARS 1.2G FIBRE 2.7G | PROTEIN 2.7G | SALT 0.3G

Christmas 2018


COOK Winter veg tian 2 HOURS | SERVES 6 | EASY

We love the look of golden and candy beetroots but if you can’t find them, simply replace with extra purple beetroots, celeriac and swede. beetroots 3 medium (about 400g), peeled golden beetroots 3 medium (about 400g), peeled candy beetroots 3 medium (about 400g), peeled swede 250g, peeled celeriac 250g, peeled butter 50g, diced

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garlic 4 cloves, thinly sliced thyme ½ a small bunch, leaves stripped chicken stock 100ml double cream 4 tbsp parmesan 50g, finely grated • Use a mandolin or a sharp knife to cut the beetroots into 5mm slices. Cut the swede and celeriac into similar-sized pieces. • Heat the oven to 190C/fan 170C/gas 5. Use a little of the butter to coat the inside of a round, shallow 30cm casserole. Around the outside of the dish, arrange the veg slices, upright, in a circle, alternating the types and colours, and tucking slices of garlic and

pieces of thyme between the slices with lots of seasoning. • Repeat, making smaller circles within, until the dish is full. Dot the top with butter, pour over the stock and seal tightly with foil. Bake for 45 minutes until the veg is tender to the point of a knife. Remove the foil, drizzle over the cream, sprinkle over the parmesan and bake for a further 30 minutes until the top is crisp. PER SERVING 261 KCALS | FAT 15.3G SATURATES 9.3G | CARBS 18.3G | SUGARS 16.3G FIBRE 8.8G | PROTEIN 8.2G | SALT 0.8G


Christmas ToasTie

This toastie is all the best bits of Christmas and Boxing Day sandwiched between pillowy bread and toasted until crisp Recipe ADAM BUSH Photograph MIKE ENGLISH

Epic Christmas toastie 40 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY

Putting mayonnaise, instead of butter, on the outside of the bread is the greatest toastie hack you’ll ever learn. It gets infinitely more crisp than butter. white bloomer bread 4 slices mayonnaise 4 tbsp cranberry sauce 6 tbsp cooked turkey a few slices cooked stuffing a few slices brie 8 slices spicy pickled beetroots 3, sliced (we used Waitrose sweet and spicy beetroots) coleslaw 4 tbsp BUBBLE AND SQUEAK roast potatoes 6, finely chopped cooked brussels sprouts 25g, finely chopped roast parsnips 50g, finely chopped roast carrots 50g, finely chopped pigs in blankets 2, finely chopped Branston Original Pickle 1½ tbsp vegetable oil 2 tsp • Start by making the bubble and squeak. Put the roast potatoes, sprouts, parsnips,

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carrots and pigs in blankets in a bowl with the pickle and lots of seasoning. Mash with a potato masher until it starts to combine and the mixture holds together when squeezed. Form into two 10cm x 7cm patties. Heat ½ the vegetable oil in a frying pan and fry the patties for 2 minutes on each side until golden and crisp. • Put the bloomer slices onto a large chopping board and spread the outsides with mayonnaise. Spread 1 tbsp of cranberry sauce on the inside of each slice and divide the turkey and stuffing between 2 of the slices. Spoon the remaining cranberry sauce over the top of the bubble and squeak patties, followed by the brie slices. Put onto the sandwiches, followed by the beetroot and coleslaw, and top with the remaining 2 bloomer slices. • Wipe the frying pan clean with kitchen paper and heat the remaining tsp of oil, then wipe with kitchen paper. Fry the sandwiches, weighing them down with a clean pan, for 2-3 minutes on each side or until really golden and crisp. Cut in half and serve. PER SERVING 1,626 KCALS | FAT 97.6G SATURATES 18.1G | CARBS 138.2G | SUGARS 36.6G FIBRE 11.5G | PROTEIN 42.9G | SALT 3.4G




pickled beetroot





bubble and squeak

y r r e b n cra sauce

Christmas 2018


r a l l a Steok’s Co ch, Tor h £35 t r o w

+ 88 Christmas 2018

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Christmas 2018


o t e m i T

l u g d e n i

The season of indulgent desserts is upon us, and to celebrate, Kelly’s of Cornwall is releasing a new limited-edition ice cream full of festive spice


here are few sweet treats quite as enticing as ice cream gently melting over a hot dessert, or even just spooned into a bowl on its own. Kelly’s knows this, and now you can enjoy a new winter flavour of its ice cream – Sticky Gingerbread. Made with Kelly’s signature Cornish recipe with local whole milk and clotted cream, Sticky Gingerbread is seriously indulgent. It has a velvety smooth texture and comes swirled through with moreish fudge pieces, drizzled with rich toffee sauce and topped with a sweet gingerbread crumb. It can be enjoyed while curled up on the sofa or dressed up as a decadent party season dessert. Pair it with spiced carrot cake or, for the ultimate festive treat, scoop it onto a mince pie. Winter never tasted so good. To taste this tempting new flavour from the UK’s leading brand of Cornish ice cream, find it at supermarkets nationwide for £3.99.

DON’T FORGET... Kelly’s Clotted Cream and Honeycomb Crunch flavours also make delicious accompaniments to winter desserts, so whatever your flavour, grab a spoon!

For more foodie inspiration from Kelly’s, follow @kellysofcornwall on Facebook and @kellyscornwall on Instagram

Christmas EAT


Try lobster thermidor omelettes at Tom Kerridge’s new London gaff, book a table at one of 2019’s hottest new openings and curl up with a festive old fashioned

Multitasking wines | Small plates in Edinburgh | Mulled tea punch Date nights in London | Jacket potato (and then some) in Nottingham Christmas 2018



92 Christmas 2018


We reveal the 16 most exciting new restaurants for 2019


Vanderlyle Former MasterChef finalist Alex Rushmer ran The Hole in the Wall in Little Wilbraham near Cambridge for six successful years, during which it was named one of the UK’s Top 100 Restaurants by The Sunday Times. Since closing it last summer, Alex has been working with former sous chef, Lawrence Butler, on a number of projects, including a sell-out twoweek run at The Cambridge Distillery in Grantchester. They’ve also been planning a new venture – Vanderlyle, which is due to open in the spring. The 25-cover restaurant in the centre of Cambridge will have an open kitchen, with space for some diners to eat counterstyle at the pass. Alex says: “We are concept-free other than the desire to cook delicious food using the very best ingredients, with a slight focus towards vegetables, sustainably sourced fish and locally farmed meat. We have built up great relationships directly with farmers, growers and producers over the past few years, and will be buying as much directly from them as we can.”

Dishoom With several restaurants in London and Edinburgh, the Dishoom family continues to grow with its first Manchester site opening this month (if all goes to plan). Like the previous sites, the restaurant in the Freemason’s Hall on Bridge Street will continue to pay homage to the old Irani cafés of Bombay and serve a similar menu to the others, including its famous bacon naan roll. Fans of Dishoom should also get ready for the autumn 2019 publication of the long-awaited cookbook, Dishoom: From Bombay with Love. » Christmas 2018


Victor Lugger and Tigrane Seydoux kol Following residencies showcasing his cooking at restaurants such as Marylebone’s Carousel, in March 2019 Mexican-born ex-Noma chef Santiago Lastra will open his debut solo restaurant, Kol, in London. With a mezcal bar, an open kitchen and lots of shared main courses, Lastra will celebrate

his native cuisine with the help of the best British produce, from salt-baked Welsh lamb shoulder with borracha (drunken) sauce, to roasted and pickled seasonal vegetables and tortillas made with Scottish grains. @santiagolas

Legendary French restaurateurs Victor Lugger and Tigrane Seydoux, and their team behind Parisian restaurants La Felicità, Pink Mamma and Ober Mamma, have confirmed their next restaurant will open in Shoreditch, in early 2019. There’s no confirmation of the name, but the 160-cover site, spread over two floors, will offer an all-day Italian menu with a focus on prime produce – including buffalo mozzarella, hand-painted ceramics from Deruta and parma ham from producer Stefano Borchini in Parma.

Sam’s Riverside Best known for his Chiswick restaurant Sam’s Brasserie, which he sold to Foxlow in 2015, restaurateur Sam Harrison is returning with a new opening in west London. Due to open in spring 2019, Sam’s Riverside will be located at Riverside Studios in Hammersmith, facing the Thames with views of Hammersmith Bridge. The modern British brasseriestyle restaurant will be an all-day affair, with

menus that cover breakfast, lunch and dinner. Commenting on his return to the west London restaurant scene, Sam says: “Sam’s Brasserie was a very important part of my life for 10 years, and I made many friends among the local clientele. I was eager to return, so when the opportunity arose to collaborate with Riverside Studios on the amazing new restaurant space, I was thrilled.”



Peter SanchezIglesias Peter Sanchez-Iglesias of Bristol’s Casamia finally opens his first London restaurant in 2019. The chef, who has a Michelin star at both Casamia and neighbouring Paco Tapas, will run a new restaurant on the top floor of London hotel The Standard. The former Good Food Guide Chef of the Year award winner said: “When I first heard about the possibility of coming on board with The Standard I was like, hell, yeah! I never thought I’d work with a hotel but this is different. The people behind this project are hugely creative and open minded. It’s completely the right fit.” @Petercasamia

Dusty Knuckle Run by husband-and-wife team Phill and Deb Lewis, popular Cardiff pizzeria Dusty Knuckle will open a new venture in the city centre in spring 2019. Located at Warden’s House, it’s the second venue for this award-winning enterprise, which also operates out of The Printhaus in Canton. In 2017, The Guardian named Dusty Knuckle one of the top 10 pizzerias outside London and The Sunday Times Magazine dubbed it one of the three best pop-ups turned restaurants. A business which champions the Slow Food ethos, it recently won People’s Favourite Restaurant in the Sustainable Restaurant Association’s Food Made Good Awards. »

Christmas 2018


Kala There seems to be no stopping Gary Usher, who plans to open his sixth restaurant on Manchester’s King Street in February. Kala is expected to serve a similar menu to Hispi in Didsbury, where dishes like braised featherblade with truffle and parmesan chips have become staples. Usher also has Sticky Walnut in Chester, Burnt Truffle in Heswall, Wreckfish in Liverpool and Pinion in Prescot. There were whispers of a London venue, after Gary conducted a site visit in Hackney last summer, but there’s no update on that as yet. @kala_manchester

Pensons Due to launch in January 2019, Pensons is an exciting new rural restaurant from chef Lee Westcott (formerly of Typing Room in Bethnal Green) and Peta Darnley of the Netherwood Estate. Inspired by the countryside and abundance of top-quality local produce on the borders of Herefordshire and Worcestershire, this is Lee’s first venture outside London and it will be housed at Pensons, a range of beautifully restored farm buildings on the Netherwood Estate, which goes back centuries. Lee says the aim is to cook and eat as seasonally, locally and sustainably as possible, with produce from the estate and foraged ingredients. Diners wishing to extend their visit can also stay in one of the bedrooms at The Hyde, a luxurious Grade-II house on the estate that dates back to the 13th century.



There’s still no confirmation as to when Shibui, the long-awaited venture from ex-Pidgin chef Elizabeth Haigh (who we named as a chef to watch in 2016) is opening but she says: “We are still pursuing the right site and timing.” Worth the wait, we say. @the_modernchef

The location and date have yet to be revealed but chef Ruth Hansom and sommelier Emily Lambert, both formerly of The Ritz in London, are said to be opening a modern British restaurant together called Epoch. @HansomLambert

96 Christmas 2018

Adam Handling Chelsea Adam Handling of Frog in Covent Garden is opening a stand-alone restaurant at the Belmond Cadogan Hotel this month, with Adam Simmonds as executive head chef. The modern British restaurant, called Adam Handling Chelsea, will have an open kitchen and wood-fired oven, as well as a chef’s table. Handling will collaborate on the menus with Simmonds, an experienced chef who has worked at Le Gavroche, Danesfield House in Marlow and Belmond Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons.


Legna After the launch of his upmarket Indian restaurant Opheem in Birmingham earlier this year, Aktar Islam has just opened an Italian joint in his home city. Legna in Summer Row has a wood-fired oven and promises a concise menu, two different pastas made fresh everyday and, according to Aktar, “a clarity of flavours”. @legnarestaurant


The Bull Inn Due to open in the summer of 2019, The Bull Inn in the Devon town of Totnes will be the latest opening from awardwinning pub owner Geetie Singh (whose husband, Guy Singh-Watson, you might recognise as the founder of veg box company Riverford Organic Farmers). Closed since November 2017, The Bull Inn dates back to the mid 19th century and it’s the fourth pub for the owner of the pioneering Duke of Cambridge in London – the UK’s first fully organic pub. Opened in 1998, its success and commitment to organics contributed to Geetie being awarded an MBE for her services to the organic pub trade. When it opens next summer, The Bull Inn will offer a bar and restaurant, as well as bedrooms. Geetie says: “I am passionate about pubs, they are a piece of history on our street corners. I have wanted a venue in Totnes for many years and I have always thought The Bull Inn would provide just the space I need. I’m really excited about this project. In the 20 years that I owned organic businesses in London, I often bought off suppliers in Devon. Now I’m looking forward to trading with them and many other fantastic sustainable local businesses.” @geetiesingh

Endo Kazutoshi New openings at the old BBC TV Centre in London’s White City will continue apace in 2019 when former Zuma executive chef and Ichibuns co-founder Endo Kazutoshi launches a 15-seat restaurant there. This as-yet-unnamed new restaurant from the master sushi chef, who once worked at elBulli in Spain, is sure to be reaching for Michelin stars as soon as it opens.

THE Marram Grass Brothers Liam and Ellis Barrie are following on from the phenomenal success of their Anglesey restaurant, The Marram Grass, by returning to their Liverpool roots to open a second site at the Albert Dock in 2019. Details of exactly what the Scouse siblings plan to do in their new waterfront restaurant have yet to be revealed but Liam says they can’t wait to make their mark in the city where they grew up: “We’re Liverpool born

and bred so we’re really looking forward to being back in the city to showcase what we do, and we’re incredibly excited to get the site up and running in such a brilliant part of town. What I love about the Dock is the diversity that it brings to the city – it’s full of locals and tourists alike, and there’s a real buzz about the place. I’m confident that my brother’s cooking and our concept will work well in Liverpool.” @liambarriebros Christmas 2018


pro vs punter KERRIDGE’S BAR & GRILL Does a regular diner reach the same conclusion about a restaurant as a food pro, who may get special treatment if recognised?* Chloe Scott-Moncrieff and O reader Jordan Sheehy compare notes on chef Tom Kerridge’s first London restaurant

The pro

The punter Media executive manager Jordan Sheehy lives in south London and eats out once a week. His favourite cuisine is Middle Eastern and he can’t resist the pork belly tagine at The Palomar.

98 Christmas 2018

Kerridge’s Bar & Grill Tom Kerridge’s long-awaited first London restaurant opened this September, in a grand corner of the Corinthia Hotel, minutes away from Trafalgar Square. The dramatic, high-ceilinged dining room, in shades of bottle green and ox blood, seats 90, and another 40 in the bar. There’s striking artwork from Tom’s wife, Beth Cullen-Kerridge, including a headless bronze overlooking guests as they dine. When it comes to the food, the menu is a familiar roll call of great British classics (albeit, poshed up a notch) that Tom’s become famous for back in Michelin-starred Marlow (where Tom has three stars among his three village pubs). Try his mushroom ‘risotto’ (made with diced fungi rather than rice and inspired by chef pals Claude Bosi and Daniel Clifford) or glazed omelette lobster thermidor to start. Move on to roast Cotswold chicken or rib of beef from The Butcher’s Tap (back in Marlow) with chips, bone marrow sauce and gherkin ketchup. Finish with brown butter tart and something strong, before the bill arrives.


Chloe Scott-Moncrieff has written for the likes of The Times, Telegraph and Evening Standard for 20 years, of which she was food editor at Metro for seven. She co-founded the Young British Foodie awards. @chloescottmoncrieff


Our pro says…

Our punter says…

Despite his smiley celeb chef image, Tom Kerridge means business. His London debut, Kerridge’s Bar & Grill, is testament to that. With a dining room designed by David Collins Studio, it’s relaxed but simultaneously fancy. A lofty green ceiling, buttoned leather banquettes and glass-fronted meat fridges doubling as statement artwork all whip up a posh pub vibe. On arrival, we’re taken to a corner table, facing a headless bronze sculpture called Steve. No one bats an eyelid when I ask for tap water. *I don’t think I was recognised. Next, it’s charming sommelier Charles Beaini’s turn. He suggests a muscat orange wine – one of 2,000 batches, apparently. Dinner kicks off with coronation chicken terrine. This ain’t no ordinary corrie, it’s a showstopper. The chicken gizzards and other poultry parts pack a punch with mango and curry nudges, a blob of celery mayo imparts a slap of earthy freshness. With the apricot and tangerine notes from the wine, it’s impeccable. My sidekick’s potato and rocket soup with wholegrain mustard and rarebit croûte is another example of technically assured cooking, arriving peppery, creamy and emerald as a spring day. All eight mains that day came with flesh – a vegetarian would struggle. I pick pig’s cheek pie, a dish playfully resembling a snout. The deepflavoured suet crust encases fatty, rich pork, the neighbouring creamy mash with flecks of crispy black pud on top is a judicious element. My partner’s fish and chips are nicely made thanks to an airy, crisp batter. Tartare sauce speckled with tangy capers, pease pudding and “Matson” spiced sauce alongside spruce up things further. For pud, a leaning Pisa of blackcurrant soufflé is refreshing, its rich, sharp blackcurrant tower with a moat of chlorophyll-tasting blackcurrant leaf cream. So clever is it, if I shut my eyes, I’m right there, picking from the hedgerow.

Having eaten at Tom Kerridge’s first restaurant, the cosy Hand and Flowers, it’s encouraging to see the same level of attentive service translated to his debut London location. The waiters were knowledgeable about the menu, happily recommending their favourite dishes. The sommelier helped us choose a fruity beaujolais from a varied wine list that, unsurprisingly, considering Kerridge’s history of celebrating produce from all corners of this island, contains plenty of British options. That theme is reflected in the menu with dishes containing Essex beetroot, Cotswold lamb as well as south coast sole. We started with the Cornish crab vol au vent. A beautifully presented dish, crowned with translucent discs of radish concealing fresh crabmeat encased in golden pastry. Unfortunately, the pastry proved a little too golden, my knife struggling before crashing through onto my plate. Pastry aside, the crab was perfectly sweet and the accompanying bisque deep and velvety smooth. The mushroom risotto topped with a crispy egg, instead of using rice, employs mushrooms diced to the same size and texture – I’m going to side with the Italians and suggest rice works just fine, as the dish lacked the richness a classic risotto offers. The star dish, a pig’s cheek pie, was stuffed with buttery, gelatinous cheek and doused with peppery devilled sauce. Our other main, the rib of beef, was cooked to a tender pink hue and swam in a silky bone marrow sauce. The chips were a little chewy, which was disappointing having previously enjoyed their crispy cousins at the Hand and Flowers. For dessert a towering blackcurrant soufflé was light, if a little too sweet, while the brown butter tart provided a comforting end to the meal.

THE BOTTOM LINE This has Kerridge’s DNA all over it, a menu lacking pomposity, with interesting execution of accessible dishes. While some starters hit a jaw-dropping £29, I’d argue the food is affordable if you pick right. There are few places of this ilk you’ll find a three-course pre-theatre menu for £29.50, which my partner had. Considering the delightful service, too, I’d return. Total bill for two, excluding service: £89.50

FOOD: 9/10 SERVICE: 9/10 VIBE: 7/10




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THE BOTTOM LINE Located minutes from the Houses of Parliament, the décor is fittingly lavish – all high ceilings, emerald green walls and leather booths. There’s a definite buzz but felt a little like somewhere people had come just to be seen. Ultimately the food was good and service exemplary, but there were a few too many wayward elements that, at £95 a head, including service, might put me off returning in the near future. Total bill for two, excluding service: £170.50

FOOD: 7/10 SERVICE: 9/10 VIBE: 8/10


24/30 Christmas 2018


EAT Best for modern British

Table-hopping Our latest restaurant recommendations – longer versions and more at – plus street-food spots from across the UK


don’t forget


HEANEY’S, CARDIFF After a successful summer pop-up and crowdfunding scheme, chef and Great British Menu semi-finalist Tommy Heaney launched his self-titled restaurant in the Welsh capital in October, creating a refined yet casual concept where bar snacks share menu space with lobster centrepieces. Faux-concrete walls, dark wood and geometric light fittings lend an industrial feel to the neighbourhood restaurant. Chatty staff and an eclectic playlist add to the relaxed atmosphere. It’s a plates-come-to-the-table-at-a-leisurely-pace sharing situation, so take someone you’re comfortable fighting with over the final slice of smoked duck ham. The daily updated menu reads like a glossary of en vogue ingredients, though every namedrop on the lengthy bill (kohlrabi, kelp, sea vegetables et al) earns its place on a plate which is well balanced and impeccably presented. On our visit, crispy quail was the surprise standout. Bound in a crunchy batter, gamey quail legs were reined in with ribbons of palate-cleansing apple and celeriac. Another corker was the no-knife-needed barbecued lamb with shimmering anchovy emulsion and salty accents of samphire. A pudding of braised apple and blackberries with earl grey custard almost saw a faultless line-up until another featuring peaches, mascarpone and a watery fruit broth cried “quit while you’re ahead”. A small curation of cocktails boasts quality over quantity. Penicillin – a sweet ’n’ savoury hit of scotch, carrot, ginger and peat – was particularly palatable.

STREET-FOOD SPOT: STICKY FINGERS STREET FOOD Cardiff’s Brewery Quarter is now home to a permanent street-food market. Five kitchens are serving up dishes as well as a craft ale, cocktail and wine bar. Expect grilled cheese sandwiches from Mr Croquewich, calzone-style fried pizza from The Original Goodfillas Company and seafood risottos from The Two Anchors. Find it on Facebook @foodsticky

Best for dat night e

JOLENE, LONDON N16 From the team behind north London’s Westerns Laundry and Primeur comes Jolene, a restaurant and bakery using milled-on-site grains. Plastered walls, zinc tables and exposed pipes are warmed up by flickering tea lights. You can take a seat at the long bar overlooking the open kitchen, or, in the warmer months, lounge on the outdoor benches sipping punchy negronis. A daily changing menu focusses on seasonal ingredients and those grains. On our visit, warm doughy flatbreads dripping with garlic butter impressed, along with romanesco cauliflower topped with toasted flaked almonds and juicy raisins, and sweet, roasted carrots served with chopped hazelnuts, mint and creamy whipped curd – it was so good we scraped the plate clean. We get pasta to share, too: silky ravioli, generously filled with smooth pumpkin purée, soaked in a sage butter sauce, and Sardinian gnocchi with sausage and rosemary ragu, covered in a frilly blanket of parmesan, celebrating all that is great about carbs. Then mains: flaky grilled stone bass basked in a creamy, salty butter sauce, while al dente bitter greens helped lighten the dish. Don’t miss out on the flourless chocolate cake with an almost molten centre and crisp exterior.

Masterful technique, intense flavours and much-replicated style have top billing at Sat Bains’s eponymous (and twoMichelin-starred) Nottingham restaurant, which celebrated its 18th year this year. (Sat’s continued commitment to sustainability also pricked our interest at O, gaining him a spot on our inaugural Chef Awards shortlist – see for more on the awards and for the full version of this review.) There’s no à la carte – this is all about Sat’s interpretation of the perfect balance of salt, sweet, sour, bitter and umami. Each plate (you can choose seven or 10 of them) is pretty much perfect, but a fat jersey royal (poached with kombu, roasted in embers) split and topped with shallot butter and caviar, sat on a bed of soured cream and chives and chive oil is one of the most memorable dishes we’ve ever had.

Christmas 2018




Best for vegan

main had just the right hit of warming spice, while a side of kohlrabi, carrot and green mango salad stood out for its crunch, lingering tropical taste and punch of garlic. For pudding, choose pancake stuffed with a dense, rich layer of pecan and cinnamon, topped with black sesame ice cream. The chiller’s stocked with celebrated South West names: Wiper and True, Cotswold Brewing Company

and Harry’s Cider. There are also brands that share Suncraft’s values (such as Purearth juices) plus coldpressed juices made fresh. There are just two wines on offer: one red, one white, both vegan, and supplied by Bristol-based Billings & Briggs. The white, a Côtes de Gascogne that’s also organic and biodynamic is a must-try – brilliantly crisp and gooseberry-sharp.


r Best fo small plates 102 Christmas 2018

Sonder is the first, globally inspired, restaurant from Trisha McCrae, the cofounder of One Star House Party, which took six top chefs around the world to take part in 20 pop-ups in 20 countries. Head chef Paul Graham, who has Number One at The Balmoral in Edinburgh, Restaurant Gordon Ramsay at Royal Hospital Road and One Star House Party on his CV, developed the succinct menu with Trisha. The large space has been transformed with an open kitchen, chic grey walls and a buzzy, urban feel. Diners are recommended two or three plates each and are encouraged to share. There’s not a huge choice (four dishes each across ‘snacks’, ‘garden’, ‘land’ and ‘sea’) but there are plenty of exciting flavour combinations.

Scottish ingredients feature heavily but the lessons learned from two years of globetrotting are clear. Local crab with daikon, coriander and nage is a delicately prepared plate with an Asian twist, a vibrant herb oil splitting the broth perfectly. Succulent chicken wing, for a snack, comes deboned, skewered and sticky with maple syrup – it’s moreish, so order two. Home baked focaccia, too, is a winner, simply served with whipped mascarpone. Elegant beef short rib comes slowcooked with a rich sauce, served with burnt (intentionally, deliciously) shallots and a rich walnut purée. The standout dish, though, is the cheese course, listed on the dessert menu and arriving looking like one. A complete surprise with blue cheese ice cream, roasted figs and sticky balsamic reduction.


Suncraft is a newly opened, stylishly cheerful vegan (and mostly gluten-free) restaurant serving Asian-inspired dishes on independent-friendly Gloucester Road, from the same team behind Sunday roast favourite (and live music hub) The Gallimaufry, across the road. With its bright yellow frontage, colourful tiles and prints, it’s an invitingly bright space with a street-foodmeets-diner feel. There’s a mix of big wooden tables with stools (communal style), smaller tables (made of recycled yogurt pots) with chairs, a glowing rack of plants opposite the open kitchen (it’s a self-regulating, pesticide-free hydroponics unit) and a small garden out the back. You can eat in or take away from the short menu – expect just a handful of mains, sides and desserts. Wonderful swiss chard and black masala dumplings, with parsnip mash, for our


w o h s time

Winter means hot chocolate is back on the menu — and Dr. Oetker has taken the drink’s best bits to create this sumptuous chocolate cake with marshmallow icing Hot chocolate cake 3 HOURS 30 MINUTES + CHILLING | SERVES 15 A LITTLE EFFORT

CAKE unsalted butter 250g, plus extra for the tins caster sugar 350g eggs 5 medium, beaten plain flour 350g powdered malt drink 50g Dr. Oetker Fine Dark Cocoa Powder 50g Dr. Oetker Baking Powder 3 tsp greek yogurt 75g Dr. Oetker 35% Milk Chocolate 150g, melted MARSHMALLOW ICING egg whites 2 medium caster sugar 125g Dr. Oetker Cream of Tartar ½ tsp Dr. Oetker Liquid Glucose 1 tsp Dr. Oetker Madagascan Vanilla Extract 1 tsp unsalted butter 250g icing sugar 400g, sifted DECORATIONS Dr. Oetker 72% Extra Dark Chocolate 300g Dr. Oetker White Chocolate 150g Dr. Oetker 35% Milk Chocolate 150g Dr. Oetker Glamour and Sparkle sprinkles Dr. Oetker Giant Chocolate Stars 10 marshmallows 100g candy canes 5 meringue and chocolate kisses

• Heat the oven to 180C/fan 160C/gas 4. Butter and line 3 x 23cm cake tins. • In a large bowl, cream the butter and sugar until soft and light. Add the eggs, a little at a time, beating well until combined. • In a separate bowl, mix the flour, malt drink, cocoa and baking powder with a pinch of salt. Fold into the butter and egg mixture then add the yogurt, melted chocolate and 100ml hot water. Stir until combined then divide between the tins. Bake for 25-30 minutes or until a skewer inserted in the middle of the cakes comes out clean. • To make the icing, combine the egg whites, caster sugar, cream of tartar, liquid glucose and vanilla in a large bowl. Set this over a pan of just simmering water (don’t let the bowl touch the water) and whisk with electric beaters until the sugar has dissolved and the mixture is warm. Remove from the heat and continue whisking until fluffy and doubled in volume. In a separate bowl, beat the butter on a high speed until light, then add the icing sugar and continue beating for 5 minutes. Add the marshmallow mixture and beat on a high speed until fluffy. Chill until needed. • To decorate, place a little of the icing on a cake board. Top with the first layer of cake, then spread with a few tbsp more of

the icing. Repeat this process with the remaining layers. " <ZL Н VM [OL YLTHPUPUN PJPUN [V SPNO[S` cover the cake as evenly as possible. Chill for 1 hour. • Use the remaining 2/3 icing to cover the chilled cake, using a cake scraper or palette knife to create an even surface. Chill for a further hour. • To decorate, melt each type of chocolate separately. Line a baking tray with baking paper, then pour ½ of the melted dark chocolate into the tray. Drizzle the white and milk chocolate over the top and run a cocktail stick through the tray to create a feathered effect. Add the Glamour and Sparkle sprinkles, then chill to set. Once set, keep in the fridge until ready to use. • To decorate, drip the remaining melted dark chocolate over the top and down the sides of the chilled cake. Let the chocolate set, then pile the middle of the cake with the stars, marshmallows, candy canes, kisses and chocolate bark.

For more Christmas baking inspiration, visit

Scientist-turned-chef Richard Falk is forensic about food. And he’s prepared to do a lot of ‘really nerdy research’ to create perfect fried chicken for his new London restaurant Words HILARY ARMSTRONG


here can’t be many chefs with first-class degrees in biomaterials science and tissue engineering. Even less who also spent years pulling pints and microwaving quesadillas in their local. But here Richard Falk is, now executive chef of Lino, a new all-day bar and restaurant in a former linoleum and carpet factory near Smithfield Market. “I wouldn’t say that I always wanted to be a chef. Very few people are lucky enough to know what they want to do from a young age,” says Richard. “At the time [when he chose food over a PhD], cooking was just what I did and I enjoyed it. Hindsight makes it easier to rationalise that decision.” Although Richard has left top-level engineering behind (his final project was on heart valve replacements), he remains a bit of a

104 Christmas 2018



boffin but with a facility for effing and blinding that must have been learnt in professional kitchens. “Changing something without analysing why you’re doing it is f***ing pointless. You need to ask the question, ‘Why am I doing X instead of Y and what’s going to happen at the end of it?’ I did all sciences at school. I’ve done a bachelor of science. That’s how that field works. You don’t blindly make stabs in the dark.” He freely admits: “I like accuracy. I like to get rulers out.” Richard’s analytical approach translates to the in-house, from-scratch philosophy of Lino. He cites one small example, of a fried chicken snack with black truffle mayonnaise and black truffles: “I’ve done a lot of really nerdy research into why the different starch contents of different flours lend themselves to the mouth-feel of fried chicken. Simply putting fried chicken on the menu isn’t enough. It has to be exceptional.” Lino is an opportunity for Richard, alongside operators Wright & Bell, to redefine the City bar. “It’s quite a homogenous scene,” he says. “You could go into two City bars and drink the same pint and eat the same burger from the same supplier, and the only thing that makes it different is where you’re sitting.” Richard’s idea is to take the lessons he’s learned from the “smaller fringe sector” and apply them to a larger operation. “Certain things I’ve been exposed to have been amazing, and I don’t see why they can’t happen on a larger scale. We have an opportunity to do something different. “If we’re going to serve meat, how are we going to treat it? Where are we going to get it from? We don’t homogenise portion size at 228g because that’s what comes in a five-pack cellophane box. You buy a sirloin and you get a f***ing saw and you go for it.” (One of Richard’s favourite dishes on Lino’s launch menu, incidentally, is Belted

Galloway wing rib of beef for two with oxtail and potato tart.) House ferments, homemade bread, charcuterie and botanical infusions are central to the offering, though menus – “not written in the restaurant vernacular” – aren’t all artisanal virtue-signalling. Ironically, it’s been the times when planning and precision have gone out of the window that big things have happened for Richard. Like when he landed his first proper kitchen job at Gordon Ramsay’s pub, The Narrow. “I met him at a Taste of London book signing and asked him for a job because I’d been drinking, I guess.” And when Richard turned up at Claridge’s for a one-day trial instead of The Narrow, because he’d misunderstood Mark Sargeant’s instructions, it gave him his first insight into the world of terrines and criss-crossed batons of apple, pear and celery. “When you’ve come from sprinkling pre-cut frozen parsley on the rim of a plate, that style of one-star food is eye-opening.” It was all new to Richard, a former “fat kid” who would “mainline packets of Skips” (his record was 13 packets in one sitting) and whose idea of eating out was Sunday lunch at a Harvester or Beefeater. He eventually did find fine dining, first at Sauterelle with Robin Gill, later at The Ledbury, and then back with Gill again at The Dairy, when it launched in 2013. It was as head chef here – “a neighbourhood restaurant with a small team doing some really exciting stuff” – that Richard won the YBFs chef of the year award in 2016, a career high point. “It was one of the first times I did an entire story arc by myself.” As Lino establishes itself, Richard’s starting a new chapter with Wright & Bell and his team, including head chef Tom Childs (“a wonderful cook”). “I learned at The Dairy that a cohesive opening team is the most valuable thing ever...

You could have the best idea, the best food, the best cook, the best building, all the money in the world... but if people aren’t invested in it, it’s never going to work.”

RICHARD IN SHORT Favourite drink Whisky, in all of its forms. And coffee. Favourite dish Currently, dim sum from Chinatown. Most memorable meal For the food, the first time I ate at Hedone. It was a masterclass in restraint and execution. Holistically, L’Enclume. It was the truest definition of hospitality. Chef or food personality you most admire To pick one is very difficult. Dylan and Matsuko Bean from Kernowsashimi – their product is great, but their operation and humility far exceed anything you could infer from opening a box of mackerel. Another great personality is Adam Kaye, culinary director at Blue Hill Stone Barns, for the manner in which he shared his knowledge and gave his time [when Richard did a two-week stage]. Guilty pleasure I would gladly get a table for one in Soho and eat dumplings off a paper table cloth until my untimely death. But I wouldn’t feel guilty about it.

Christmas 2018


s as


Mulled tea punch 30 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY

This is a take on kinderpunsch, a nonalcoholic German drink served as an alternative to glĂźhwein. hibiscus tea bags 2 star anise 1 cinnamon sticks 2, plus extra to garnish cloves 5 cardamom pods 2 orange slices 4 orange juice 120ml pomegranate juice 120ml (pure, not from concentrate) runny honey 2 tbsp

106 Christmas 2018

â&#x20AC;˘ Bring 500ml water to boil in a pan, add the tea bags and spices, and very gently simmer for 10 minutes, then add the orange slices and both juices, and simmer for 15 minutes. Strain the tea to remove the spices and tea bags, and pour back into the pan along with the orange slices. Sweeten with honey to taste, then serve in glass mugs, with the orange slices and cinnamon sticks.

DRINK Sherry sour

Festive old fashioned



caster sugar 100g oloroso sherry 120ml lemon juice 60ml egg white 1

orange slices 2, plus extra to garnish Angostura bitters 5-6 dashes bourbon 120ml maraschino cherries to garnish SPICED BROWN-SUGAR SYRUP soft light brown sugar 100g cinnamon sticks 1½ whole cloves 8 star anise 1 • First make the syrup by putting the sugar and spices with 100ml water in a pan and bring to a simmer. Gently simmer for 20 minutes then strain out the spices. Chill. This will make more syrup than you need but will keep in the fridge for a month. • Put orange slices in the bottoms of 2 tumbler glasses and gently muddle with the end of a rolling pin, then remove the fruit (leaving the juices). Add 2 tsp of the brown sugar syrup with the bitters to each and stir. Add the bourbon and some ice, and stir well. Garnish with more orange slices and maraschino cherries.


• Combine the sugar with 100ml water and gently bring to a simmer, stirring until the sugar is dissolved. Cool. This will make more sugar syrup than you need but will keep for a month in the fridge (visit for more cocktail recipes to use it up). • Put 40ml of the sugar syrup, the sherry, lemon juice and egg white in a cocktail shaker with ice, and shake vigorously for 30 seconds. Strain into 2 chilled coupe glasses.

Christmas 2018



Kate Hawkings on... VERSATILE WINES FOR CHRISTMAS O’s wine expert has the festive period covered


eep Christmas wine-buying stress to a minimum by thinking ahead and getting in bottles that will multitask, whether for an impromptu glass with neighbours who drop by for a drink, or for the main feasting event itself. Fizz is essential at some stage, of course. If it has to be champagne, try Tesco Finest Cru – a snip at £19 – or look for crémants (made in the same way as champagne but commanding gentler prices), such as M&S’s La Cave des Hautes Côtes Crémant de Bourgogne NV (£12). Crisp white wines fit the bill for light and fishy dishes but can be washed out by stronger flavours. Sainsbury’s Taste the Difference Dry Furmint (£10), a grape from Hungary, is lip-smackingly fresh but has enough muscle to carry weightier food. Whites with a little background sweetness work well with richer things, especially if they contain North African or Asian spices, so are good if you’re making a curry from leftovers, or calling out for a takeaway when you just can’t face any more cooking. Try Majestic’s peachy Parcel Series Riesling (£10.99 or £8.99 in a Mixed 6 deal). When it comes to red, keep something light to hand as well as more traditional, full-bodied, wintery reds. Pinot noir is a classically good match with turkey and sits happily alongside many other things too – it’s great for a Boxing Day cold cuts buffet, or when you’re catering for picky eaters with different tastes. The Wine Society’s Ostoros 2016 Pinot Noir from Hungary is astonishing value at £6.75 or, for something with a little more weight but equal versatility, try the BIB Company’s Straka Blaufränkisch, an Austrian grape variety that has a charming fragrant lift and comes in a box, so lasts up to a month after opening – very handy for the party season (£33.50 for 2.5 litres). Both would be good served slightly chilled to freshen jaded palates. One-stop shopping makes sense when stocking up on wine. Online can be risky unless you know just what you want, so I recommend drawing up a list and seeking advice from a shop. Staff at dependable chains such as Oddbins and Majestic are generally good, or support your local independent wine shops, who tend to offer the best advice of all. Happy Christmas drinking! @KateHawkings

Bottles to try this Xmas…

Artisan Tasmanian Gewürztraminer 2016 (£10.99, Aldi) A really pretty wine with floral, pineapple notes and a little gentle sweetness. Great for those who don’t like their wine too dry – try it with the vegetable stew with saffron, curry and parmesan cream on p64 or the Vietnamese peanut rice and lemongrass tofu on p62.

Chapel Down Rosé Brut NV (£24.99, Waitrose) English sparkling wine is getting better and better. This lovely pink fizz is made from pinot noir and has a raspberry richness that makes it great with food – perfect with canapés or a decadent smoked salmon brunch.

Insoglio del Cinghiale Campo di Sasso 2013 (£21.50, Corney & Barrow) This distinguished Tuscan from the acclaimed stable of Lodovico Antinori in the Bolgheri region is well worth splashing out on. A dreamy, silky red with plummy fruit and liquorice that deserves stunning food alongside. Ace with the hog roast with spiced apple stuffing on p30, or anything meaty.

El Viaje de Ramón Garnacha 2017 (£9.99, Co-op Food) Flimsy Provençal-style rosés are best kept for summer, but one with a little more muscle such as this is surprisingly versatile for winter drinking. Delicious with the roast salmon with herb crust and brown shrimp butter on p28, it would also work well with cold meats and salads, and provides a welcome freshness for festive feasting.

Christmas 2018



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110 Christmas 2018


cook | eat | explore

MONTH On sale 28 December



colourful, flavour-packed salads to add zing to your new year!


Sabrina Ghayourâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s spicy comfort food Healthy foodie holidays

Inspired new crumpet toppings

Crispy duck, mango and mangetout cold noodle salad



make marmalade like a pro

Christmas 2018


PICKLE IN 15 MINUTES Enjoy curry night with a quick-pickled twist

Christmas EXPLORE


Slope off to the Catalan Pyrenees for pintxos, jamón ibérico and lashings of local cava. Graze on walnut-stuffed aubergine rolls by the Black Sea. Explore Kerala’s spice plantations and backwaters fuelled on fragrant fish curries

Manchester’s finest festive eats | Foodie trips for solo travellers Dorset’s latest gourmet retreat | Create the perfect bento box in Japan Christmas 2018


114 Christmas 2018


Cook like a local


The kitchens that encircle this great body of water between Europe and Asia harbour fabulous fusion dishes, from Russian kebabs served on lavash bread to börek-like Bulgarian pies stuffed with sorrel, chard, eggs and cheese Words CAROLINE EDEN


ver centuries empires great and small have spanned the Black Sea, a watery expanse shared by Ukraine, Romania, Bulgaria, Turkey, Georgia and Russia. Many migrants have passed over the waves, too, from émigrés fleeing Russia to deportees from the Caucasus and refugees from the Balkans. This ebb and flow has left a rich mix of food cultures around the Black Sea and, while heirloom recipes carried to new lands are as guarded and treasured as trinkets and memories in these parts, there are still many distinctions between the surrounding regions. Odessa, a handsome port city, for instance, is part of Ukraine yet distinct from it, with a cuisine influenced by Jewish and Italian traditions. Here you can eat braided challah bread with a bowl of pasta, because Italians opened the first restaurants in Odessa and, before the Nazis’ Romanian allies invaded, this was an intensely Jewish city. Along the coast, Romanian towns offer mamaliga (polenta) dishes, punchy sour soups and mussels galore, while Bulgaria is salad country, with plump, sweet pink tomatoes that go brilliantly with local brined sirene cheese. Both countries share a love of stuffed leaves with Turkey, and long traditions of pickling fruit and vegetables with Ukraine. Across the border, the cuisine of Turkey’s huge Black Sea region is full of smoky and buttery flavours. This is where enormous cherry orchards bloom and tea plantations roll down to the sea. So loved are hamsi (anchovies) that traditional dances have been styled on their movements. Batumi, on the Georgian coast, means bowls of spinach pkhali (a minced vegetable dip), walnut-stuffed aubergine rolls and Adjarian khachapuri, a glistening canoe-shaped bread with a wobbling egg in its centre. Russia’s Black Sea coast promises kebabs on lavash bread, fresh flounder and classics such as blini, borscht and caviar. All pair well with local vodka or Georgian wine. » Christmas 2018


of the best things to eat

BULZ Made with polenta, Romanian bulz – round balls stuffed with local kashkaval cheese – are typically shepherds’ food made out on the pastures, but they’re found down by the coast, too.

CHALLAH A Jewish braided bread made with enriched dough, this is found on the menu at several Odessan cafés. It has a similar texture to brioche and is excellent at soaking up flavours and sauces.

ZELNIK A Balkan filo pie eaten in Bulgaria, it is typically stuffed with sorrel, lovage or chard, eggs and cheese, and similar to a Turkish börek or Bulgarian banitsa.

MAMALIGA Mamaliga (polenta) is as common as bread in certain Black Sea towns in Romania and Ukraine, accompanying many meals. It is a brilliant base for bacon and mushrooms and it bakes well, too.

KABAK TATLISI During hot summer nights, people in Turkey’s Kastamonu area collectively gorge on ice cream. During the winter, however, locals switch to candied pumpkin with walnuts – a warming, comforting bedtime treat that’s delicious served with tahini cream.

116 Christmas 2018

Banker’s fish soup



One freezing morning in January, I wandered into a tiny fish café in Karaköy, Istanbul. There I met cousins Muhareen and Muhsin, a chef and waiter, from the Black Sea city of Ardahan, near the Georgian border. They left their home city more than a decade ago to serve the bankers around Bankalar Caddesi – Istanbul’s answer to Wall Street, and once the financial centre of the Ottoman Empire – what they know best: fish. Their café is so popular, and the turnover so fast, that no ice is used for the little fish counter in the window. As it was winter, my soup came with scorpion fish, but for this recipe any firm, white-fleshed fish will do – monkfish works well. Many of the banks have now relocated but this balik çorbasi remains the best fish soup I’ve ever eaten. It is very hearty and somewhere between a stew and a soup. Served with warm white crusty bread it makes for a great lunch.

olive oil 2 tbsp onion ½, roughly chopped garlic 1 clove, finely chopped carrots 2, diced celeriac 250g, diced fish stock 500ml lemon ½, zested cherry tomatoes a handful, halved monkfish 250g, trimmed and cut into bite-sized pieces TO SERVE flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped to make 2 tbsp ground white pepper (optional) lemon wedges to serve • Heat the oil in a lidded pan and gently fry the onion and garlic with a pinch of salt for a couple of minutes until softened. Add the carrots and celeriac, and cook for a further 8 minutes. • Pour in the fish stock and bring to a boil. Turn down the heat and simmer with the lid

on for 20 minutes or until the vegetables are still firm but nearly cooked through. Add the lemon zest, cherry tomatoes and chunks of fish, and cook for 8-10 minutes or until the fish is cooked through. • Stir in the chopped parsley, dust with a little white pepper, if you like, and serve with the lemon wedges to squeeze over.


Caroline Eden is a travel and food writer focussing on the former Soviet nations and South Asia. Her latest book, Black Sea: Dispatches and Recipes Through Darkness and Light, is published this month (£25, Quadrille).


Christmas 2018


: d a o r e On th

kerala Spice up a trip to this idyllic corner of south-west India by stopping off for chicken wrapped in cinnamon leaves, coconut dosas and cardamom-laced coffee



118 Christmas 2018



ake up and smell the cardamom, cumin and fenugreek-laced coffee. Prising open the tin in my room I inhale deeply. The beans are grown in the Spice Village’s organic garden, then roasted and ground, and spices added for their health benefits: cardamom for coughs and breathing problems, cumin and fenugreek for digestion ( This small mountain resort in Thekkady, designed around a traditional village with elephant-grass-thatched cottages peppered along pathways threaded through verdant gardens, is in Kerala’s Western Ghats. The slender southern state snakes down 360 miles of palm-fringed coastline lapped by the sultry Arabian Sea. It’s a land of sun-soaked beaches and soporific backwaters, a network of languid rivers and canals plied by houseboats. Inland the mist-shrouded mountains of the Western Ghats, the southern section known as the Cardamom Hills, are swathed in coffee, tea and spice plantations. With its high hill stations and lush lowlands, it has a laidback charm and slower pace of life than the rest of India. Unsurprisingly, fish features heavily on the menu, the region’s most famous dish a creamy coconut-laced fish curry. Kerala’s cuisine also reflects its long history as a cultural melting pot. From the 14th century the harbour in Cochin became an important port for the lucrative spice trade. The Arabs ruled here at one time, and Chinese settlers left their mark with their distinctive cantilevered fishing nets, while the Portuguese, Dutch and British also washed up on these shores and started trading. At the Spice Village, food is one of the highlights and I pad along paths fringed with the raw ingredients to a cookery demonstration before dinner. “Black pepper is the king of spices, but you will also find cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, ginger, turmeric and curry leaves in the spice plantations here,” the chef tells us as he tips peppercorns into coconut oil in the uruli, a traditional brass pan. Adding chunks of chicken and fragrant masala spices, the meat sizzles aromatically. Handed spoons, we dig in. It’s a dry dish (add a splash of creamy coconut milk, if you like), and deliciously fiery. »


Christmas 2018 119

( in Alleppey to take me to my next stop, a homestay on an island in Lake Vembanad. This is India’s longest lake, surrounded by a network of hundreds of miles of creeks. The houseboats, known as kettuvallam, are thatched with coconut fibre and were once used for transporting rice to market. My boat looks like an up-turned armadillo, the water muddy like a masala chai. On either side are paddy fields. I lounge in a wicker chair, sipping fresh coconut juice, lunching on pearlspot (a local fish) with shredded cabbage and coconut as lake life drifts slowly by. We dock at Philipkutty’s Farm, a 35-acre smallholding and homestay, built on an island reclaimed from the backwaters in the 1950s by Anu Mathew’s late husband’s grandfather ( The cluster of traditional villas decked out with ornate dark wooden furniture face the palm-fringed waterfront. In front of the house are mango and fig trees. The rice fields have been converted to a system of ridges and canals, and the main crops now are coconuts, bananas, nutmeg, cacao and peppers. They also grow their own vegetables, fruit (cherries, passion fruits, guavas) and spices, and farm a few cows, geese, ducks and hens. Most of the food here is grown on the farm. For breakfast there’s fresh mango juice, homemade pineapple and syrupy banana jams, yogurt and fresh fruit. It is a wonderful spot to relax in for a few days. There is nothing to do but lounge on the veranda with a book, visit local villages or cruise the backwaters in the farm’s small boat. Along the banks the family has installed traditional Chinese fishing nets, and you can help to haul in »


120 Christmas 2018


Later, at dinner on the terrace of the Tamarind restaurant, I tuck into minced chicken with pungent spices wrapped in cinnamon leaves and seared. For dessert, a traditional Keralan dish – jackfruit koottu pradhaman (made with coconut milk and jaggery, it is unctuously sweet). Breakfast is a feast of fresh fruits and juices (melon, guava, pineapple and watermelon) and sweet cinnamon and coconut dosas from the spice griddle. The resort is close to the Periyar Tiger Reserve and you can trek or go river-rafting through the park with forest rangers, scouring the undergrowth to catch a glimpse of the elusive tigers, wild elephants, sambar deer, bison, wild boars and giant malabar squirrels. Or take a tour of a local spice plantation. I visit a small, family-owned 20-acre plot. Not tidy regimented rows but a tangle of trees and bushes. Meandering down a cardamom corridor, my guide tells me that the spice can be harvested every 45 days, whereas peppercorns need a full year to ripen. He points out the piper nigrum plant, explaining that green (good for marinating fish), red, white and black peppercorns all come from the same plant. Green is the young seed, red is ripe, white has had the skin removed and black is dried. The plantation is a maze of clove, nutmeg and allspice trees, robusta and arabica coffee, cacao and chilli bushes. He plucks a leaf from a tree: cinnamon. The inner bark is used for the spice but even the leaves taste of cinnamon. In the earth, ginger and turmeric roots are growing. A vine climbing the trunk of a tree is laden with vanilla pods. What you don’t find in the Cardamom Hills is coconuts – the palms need sandy soil. Winding back down to the hot, humid coast I board a houseboat


Christmas 2018 121


two guestrooms, decorated with original heavy wooden furniture, are named after the flagships of two of the greatest explorers: São Gabriel was Vasco da Gama’s ship, Santa María was Christopher Columbus’s vessel. Neema spent 20 years sailing around the world with her daughter on her husband’s merchant ship. “Now,” she jokes, “the world comes to me.” Before the class we head to Ernakulam Market. Wandering around the stalls, Neema points out bitter gourds, plantains and giant limes used to make pickles. “The difference between the cuisine of northern and southern India is that we eat more rice, they eat more wheat. And we add coconut, which reduces the heat, so our dishes are less spicy.” Back in the kitchen we begin by marinating the chicken in a ginger and garlic paste. We’re whipping up chicken masala for lunch along with fried okra, prawn ularthiyathu and beetroot pachadi, a vivid dish with shallots, chilli, coconut and garlic. I watch closely as Neema starts to blend her garam masala – a mix of cinnamon, black pepper, cardamom, green and black cloves, mace, cumin seeds, fennel and star anise. If there’s one thing I’ve learnt in Kerala it’s that you have to make sure that the spice is right.

HOW TO DO IT Cox & Kings’s 13-day escorted tour of Kerala costs from £2,425 per person, including flights, transfers, excursions and accommodation with breakfast and some other meals ( Jet Airways flies daily from Heathrow to Cochin via Mumbai or Delhi from £420 return ( Although Kerala was hit by severe flooding during the monsoon season, all the places mentioned in this guide continue to operate and welcome guests. For up-to-date travel advice, visit More info: Follow Lucy on Instagram and Twitter @lucygillmore.


122 Christmas 2018


the catch in the evening. Or take a cookery lesson with Anu’s mother-inlaw, Aniamma Philip. The style of cooking in this region is Syrian Christian, many of the dishes focussing on fish with rice, and rice-based breads such as appam. Local specialities include avial (a coconut, curd and vegetable curry), karimeen pollichathu (fish wrapped in banana leaves and cooked in hot spices), piralen (a spicy stew) and fish molee. Rick Stein swung by on his romp around India, and Anu proudly shows me her recipe for prawn molee in his resulting cookbook. I pull up a stool and Aniamma starts to cook a Keralan fish curry in a clay pot (the clay prevents the spices burning). She uses pearlspot fish and malabar tamarind, which gives the curry its traditionally sour taste. For dinner that night, Anu makes prawn molee and coconut curry, and we sit in the pavilion over the water chatting and listening to the sounds of the cicadas, the palm trees like sentries, dark and angular against the night sky. It’s a magical setting, the molee moreish, creamy and tinged with fire. Cochin is my final destination. I’m staying in Eighth Bastion, a contemporary boutique hotel in Fort Kochi with a tranquil courtyard garden and small pool ( In this historic quarter the streets are lined with Dutch and Portuguese colonial architecture. You can dip into the centuries-old St Francis Church before swinging by the oldest active Jewish synagogue in the Commonwealth, and wandering along a waterfront lined with the cantilevered Chinese fishing nets. Hopping onto a ferry, I cross to the island of Vypin and make my way to The Bungalow Heritage Homestay to meet Neema Veliyath for a cookery class in the house her grandfather built in 1930 (; The ground floor is colonial Portuguese, the first floor Dutch, a vision of dark, polished rosewood planks two inches thick. The

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Street eats Wrap up warm and head to Hatch for street food from Manchester’s up-and-coming vendors. Beneath the twinkle of exposed light bulbs, order a local Cloudwater IPA (brewed under the railway arches around the corner) at bar and nanobrewery Öl, or a flat white in the shipping container above Takk coffee. Boozy brunch Popular antipodean café, Federal, entices Northern Quarter locals out of bed at weekends for its epic brunches – treacly spiced banana bread, french toast laden with berry compote, and corn fritters piled with chorizo. Kick off with a signature espresso martini, made here with vanilla-infused vodka and Ozone espresso. Veggie Indian Join one of the long tables at basement beer and Indian joint Bundobust to eat vegetarian street food combos (paneer tikka skewers, crisp broccoli bhajis, lentil dal with bhatura flatbread) washed down with northern craft beers and house chai (add a dash of bourbon for a warming kick). Bagel fix Pop into Eat New York’s The Bagel Shop for tempting lunches on the go. Try the tempurabattered aubergine on a warm, doughy bagel base, or classic pastrami smoked for 15 hours in the smoker, ‘Old Buddy’.

8 9 Weekender

MANCHESTER Fuel up for a festive shopping trip with city-brewed beers, veggie street food and artisan bakes











Stop for a slice Manchester’s trendy foodies flock to Rudy’s for pillowy pizzas topped with spicy ’nduja sausage, smoked mozzarella or wild broccoli. Order a punchy aperitivo while you wait – gin fizz spiked with bittersweet Cynar or an amaretto sour made with limoncello and fresh basil. Zen dining Seek out compact Umezushi behind Victoria Station for sushi and Japanese classics – neat little nigiri topped with wagyu sirloin, tightly rolled maki filled with salmon and avocado, and melting pork belly on sushi rice. Haute cuisine The luxe interiors of The French (disco ball chandeliers, mirrored panelling, sage leather banquettes) make it an ideal spot for a festive celebration. Indulge in Adam Reid’s playful modern British cooking: crispy pig’s trotter nuggets, a smartened-up corned beef hash, and shiny clementine sugar shells filled with white chocolate mousse.


Craft bakes Head to canalside Pollen Bakery for indulgent brownies and stay for cuddles with Maru, the resident chow chow. This sleek bakery is famous for its sourdough loaves (rye, oat porridge, five-seed sour) and Manchester tart cruffins, but don’t miss the salted caramel brownies, topped with cocoa nibs. Spanish feast After Christmas shopping, sit at the counter at upmarket tapas restaurant El Gato Negro and peer into the open kitchen while you enjoy Galician octopus, heritage carrots drizzled with walnut pesto, and cheesy croquetas cooked on the Josper grill. Fancy a brew? Stock up on hoppy gifts for your favourite beer geek at Beermoth, a small shop on buzzy Tib Street. It’s packed with bottles, cans and kegs from the city’s best breweries (look out for Runaway, Track and Cloudwater), as well as choice picks from the rest of the UK and beyond.

Doubles at Cow Hollow Hotel, a stylish Northern Quarter hotel with a lobby that also serves as a cocktail bar, cost from £99, b&b ( More info: or read our extended foodie guide to Manchester at


Alex Crossley is digital editor at O. She has family in Manchester and visits regularly to explore the latest foodie openings.

Christmas 2018



Tour southern India Join this fully escorted trip, taking in French colonial Pondicherry, UNESCO-listed Hindu temples, Periyar Wildlife Reserve and a houseboat cruise in Kerala’s backwaters

14 days from just £1,749 pp (selected departures from January-November 2019)


his outstanding tour packs in all the best highlights of southern India, taking in delicious regional food, historic temples, amazing wildlife and lively cities.

Day 3: Mahabalipuram

Day 9: Kumily

Explore Chennai before arriving at the historic British fortress, Fort St George. Continue on to see the 7th- and 8th-century religious monuments of Mahabalipuram, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Stay the night at the three-star superior Ideal Beach Resort.

Tour nearby Nayak Palace, then travel to Kumily, where you will stay two nights at the four-star Spice Village.

Day 4: Pondicherry

Day 10: Periyar Wildlife Reserve Enjoy a guided nature walk in the Periyar Wildlife Reserve – home to bison, langur and tigers – and a visit to a spice plantation.

Travel to Pondicherry and enjoy a walking tour of the French colonial centre. Stay one night at the three-star superior Hotel Atithi.

Day 11: Kumarakom


Days 5 and 6: Tanjore

Day 12: Kerala houseboat cruise

• Return flights from the UK, plus all hotel transfers • Stay in hand-picked three-star to four-star superior hotels. Daily breakfasts and five meals included • The services of an experienced and insightful tour manager throughout

Continue south to Tanjore and stay two nights at the three-star superior Ideal River View Hotel. Enjoy a tour of the city, visiting the 11th-century Brihadisvara Temple and the fascinating Tanjore palace.

Discover the famous backwaters, enjoying a regional lunch while on board.

Day 7: Chettinad

Day 14: Return flight

ITINERARY Day 1: Departure

Day 8: Madurai

Overnight flight to Chennai via Muscat.

Day 2: Arrival in Chennai Transfer to the four-star superior Raintree Hotel.

Head to Kerala to stay two nights at the four-star superior Coconut Lagoon.

Day 13: Cochin Tour the city, then stay overnight at the four-star Trident Hotel Cochin.

Drive to the nearby Chettinad region and stay overnight at the Chidambara Vilas. Explore Chettinad in the morning and sample the region’s cuisine for lunch. In the afternoon you will be driven to the four-star Heritage Madurai hotel. At dusk, ride tuk-tuks to the Meenakshi Amman Hindu temple for a tour.

TO REQUEST A BROCHURE, CALL 01283 742 355 OR, TO BOOK, VISIT OLIRIVIERA.CO.UK Terms & conditions Holidays organised by and subject to the booking conditions of Riviera Travel, New Manor, 328 Wetmore Road, Burton upon Trent, Staffs DE14 1SP and are offered subject to availability. ABTA V4744 and ATOL 3430 protected. Per-person prices based on two sharing a twin room. Single rooms and optional insurance available at a supplement. Additional entrance costs may apply.

126 Christmas 2018


Southern India and the backwaters of Kerala


Flying solo Make bento, lamb mansaf or tortellini on these must-do foodie trips for independent travellers

Japan Solo travellers might not immediately think of Japan, with a language and culture that aren’t easily navigated by first-timers. However, Hayes & Jarvis’s Gourmet Japan trips offer both freedom and security. The 12-day tours mix guided and self-guided days, so you get local expertise when you need it – for a tour of Tokyo’s fish markets, Kyoto’s geisha district and Osaka’s street food – as well as time to explore alone. Plus there are chances to chat during a bento-making workshop, cooking class and tea ceremony. From £3,709 pp including flights, accommodation and transport (


Jordan The way to a country’s heart is through its stomach. At least, that’s the conclusion drawn by solo-friendly tour operator Intrepid, which expanded its range of foodie experiences in 2018 to provide more immersive trips. On its six-day Jordan Real Food Adventure that means joining a Bedouin barbecue in the Wadi Rum desert, drinking sheep’s milk with local shepherds, preparing lamb mansaf with a family at Petra (before visiting the site itself) and whipping up your own dinner at Amman’s most innovative cookery school. From £823 pp including accommodation and most meals; excluding flights (

Italy The clue’s in the nickname: Bologna is ‘La Grassa’ (‘The Fat One’), Italy’s true home of eating, where food always comes first. This makes the gluttonous city an ideal base for a one-week Cooking Holiday in Bologna with specialist company, Flavours. Staying in a converted farmhouse in the Emilia-Romagna countryside with a small group of fellow foodies, you’ll balance time at the stove preparing traditional dishes – minced pork tortellini, crostini romagnoli, fried petroniana – with strolls around markets and medieval streets, cooking, learning, exploring and eating together. From £1,599 pp including accommodation, tuition and meals; excluding flights ( Christmas 2018




WHAT’S THE HOTEL’S USP? The Ollerod is the creation of chef Chris Staines (formerly of Michelin-starred Foliage) and Silvana Bandini (ex-Pig Hotel). In pretty Beaminster, the former Bridge House Hotel is gradually being refreshed with a more eclectic, informal look (the restaurant and nine of the 13 bedrooms are complete so far). WHAT’S GOOD TO DRINK? Try a glass of locally distilled Black Cow Pure Milk Vodka, or order a bottle of nearby Furleigh Estate’s Classic Cuvée. AND TO EAT? Choose small plates cooked with carefully sourced Dorset produce (serrano ham croquettes, char siu pork belly bao, spiced lamb shoulder) or go à la carte with dishes such as flame-grilled mackerel satay with pickled Thai shallots, kimchi, burnt cucumber and ponzu jelly; or flavoursome sirloin with salad straight from the garden’s expanding veg patch. Few veggie mains have thrilled us as much as Staines’s wild mushroom, artichoke and hazelnut cannelloni. Doubles from £120 (

entic, affo








Catch up on the latest openings, eats and reads around the world with travel editor Rhiannon Batten


Food mileage Read

If you’re in search of Christmas gift inspiration for a travel-loving foodie, call off the search: Anissa Helou’s latest cookbook, Feast, fits the bill perfectly. This trove of recipes from across the Islamic world caters to a vast range of culinary tastes, from patterned Uzbek flatbreads and umm ali bread pudding to chicken with walnuts and pomegranates, lamb shawarma sandwiches, saffron fritters and kulfi lollies (£45, Bloomsbury).

Make a weekend of your foodie Christmas gift shopping by visiting Padstow Christmas Festival (6-9 December). This year’s event sees local chefs Rick Stein, Paul Ainsworth and Nathan Outlaw headlining the stage, along with guests Nieves Barragán Mohacho, Reza Mahammad and Angela Hartnett. Pick up some tips, then eat, drink and shop your way around the stalls by the town’s harbour (among them seek out Chough Bakery’s proper pasties and Louise’s Larder’s rhubarb, rose and cardamom jam). New for this year is a wine theatre: look out for Camel Valley Vineyard’s Sam Lindo talking about matching fish and chips with wine. padstowchristmas

Sleep If you’re a fan of the Experimental Group’s London properties (among them the Henrietta Hotel and ECC Chinatown), don’t book a ski trip this winter before checking out its latest opening, The Experimental Chalet. A collaboration with Parisian chef Greg Marchand (also of Frenchie in Covent Garden), the chalet opens in the Swiss resort of Verbier this month, with 39 bedrooms, a spa, cocktail bar and restaurant (expect a modern twist on traditional Alpine dishes). For guests looking to tap into Verbier’s infamous après-ski scene, the group has also acquired the long-standing Farm Club nightclub, conveniently located in the hotel’s basement. Christmas 2018


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A constellation of nutty sheepâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cheese with candied walnuts and membrillo @urtau

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Christmas cheats & hacks Breeze your way through the festive break with these top tips from the O team Words JANINE RATCLIFFE Photographs MIKE ENGLISH

fridge best practice Remember that the lower shelves are colder, and not to overload otherwise the cool air cannot circulate around the food.

TOP SHELF Cheese, yogurt, cream, butter

MIDDLE SHELF Cooked and cured meats and fish, prepared salads, leftovers


Posh breakfast muffins for a crowd Heat the oven to 180C/fan 160C/gas 4. Whisk 8 eggs with 3 tbsp crème fraîche and 3 tbsp chopped chives, and season. Butter and line a 26cm x 18cm baking tin with baking paper. Pour in the egg mixture and bake for 10 minutes or until set, then take out and leave to cool. You can now wrap and chill the frittata for 2-3 days until needed. To assemble, re-warm the frittata in a low oven, then cut into 6 circles the same size as muffins with a round cutter (or alternatively cut into squares). Toast and butter 6 muffins then add a little watercress, slices of avocado, a round of frittata, a few slices of smoked salmon and an extra drizzle of crème fraîche and chives. Makes 6.

132 Christmas 2018

SALAD DRAW Salad veg and soft herbs (wrap in damp kitchen towel to prolong life)


Raw meat, fish and poultry (wrap well or keep in containers)


how to make the prettiest cheeseboard

Space out the ge cheeses on a lar r, board or platte f leaving plenty o m room around the

Fill in ps smaller gaed with roastcans e cashews, pked and smo almonds

Add pil e differes of n shaped t bisc cracke uits, r breads s and ticks

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Christmas 2018



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or call our hotline 0330 This offer closes on the 31st December 2018 d i Basic Annual Rate. For overseas rates visit w subscription. †UK calls will cost the same as cost between 3p and 55p per minute. Lines *Radio Times and Match of the Day are pub This price is for one year and includes the C

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foodie films to watch over the holidays Tampopo A surreal Japanese comedy quest for the perfect noodle recipe.

Chef One chef’s journey from high-end restaurant to food truck, with the best soundtrack.

Ratatouille Remy the rat dreams of becoming a top chef in Paris.

Kings of pastry Documentary about pastry chefs competing for the highest honour.

Julie & Julia Culinary legend Julia Child inspires a New York blogger to change her life.

Mulled hot chocolate

Jiro Dreams of Sushi

Pour 300ml red wine into a pan and add 1 cinnamon stick, 2 star anise, 4 cloves, 6 allspice berries and 2 tbsp demerara sugar. Heat gently and simmer for 10 minutes. In a separate pan, heat 500ml whole milk, then gradually whisk in 150g dark chocolate chips or chopped dark chocolate. Strain the red wine into the chocolate pan and stir. Serve in small glasses or cups with extra cinnamon stick stirrers.

How to use forgotten bottles from the drinks cupboard

Baileys White Russian

Cherry Sling

Sancho Panza

Mix 3 tbsp Baileys, 1 tbsp Kahlúa and 2 tbsp vodka with 4 tbsp whole milk, then serve over ice in a short glass.

Pour 2 tbsp gin, 1 tbsp cherry brandy and ½ tbsp lemon juice over ice in a tall glass. Finish with soda and a maraschino cherry.

Stir 3 tbsp cream sherry, 1½ tbsp Campari and a dash of Angostura bitters in a short glass with ice.

The story of 85-year-old Jiro Ono, the world’s greatest sushi chef.

1 2 3

Christmas cake upcycle! Soak dry, crumbled cake in rum or brandy, then spoon over ice-cream. Fry slices in butter, top with blue cheese and heat under the grill. Squidge into balls, skewer, then dip in melted white chocolate for cake pops.

Christmas 2018



Alternative condiments give your leftovers extra oomph this christmas

Eat 17 Bacon jam

Gran luchito smoked chilli mayo

Upgrade your cheese toasties

A spicy mayo to perk up turkey butties

Ultimate Christmas yule log 1 HOUR 20 + COOLING + CHILLING | SERVES 8 | EASY

self-raising flour 100g cocoa powder 50g ground cinnamon 1 tsp eggs 6 large caster sugar 100g milk 2 tbsp BRITTLE hazelnuts 50g, chopped caster sugar 70g GANACHE dark chocolate 100g, chopped double cream 150ml FILLING double cream 250ml Baileys (or Irish cream liqueur) 5 tbsp (optional) icing sugar 2 tbsp Ferrero Rocher 6, roughly chopped • Heat the oven to 180C/fan 160C/gas 4. Line a 25cm × 38cm swiss roll tin with baking paper.

Belazu zhoug

Truffle honey

Toss this herby paste with rice, or use in a salad dressing

Posh-up soft cheeses with a drizzle of this

• To make the sponge, sift the flour, cocoa and cinnamon into a large bowl and leave to one side. Separate the eggs, putting the whites and yolks into separate large clean bowls. Whisk the yolks with 1/2 the sugar for 5 minutes or until thickened and pale. Whisk the egg whites, sprinkling in the remaining sugar with a pinch of salt, until glossy and holding soft peaks. With a large metal spoon, add a 1/3 of the whites to the yolk mixture, folding to combine, followed by a 1/3 of the flour mixture. Repeat the process in 2 more additions, folding until evenly combined. Add the milk to loosen slightly. • Pour the batter into the tin so it is evenly spread. Bake for 10-12 minutes or until firm to the touch. • Turn out the sponge onto a piece of baking paper and peel off the old piece of baking paper. Roll the sponge up using the paper underneath – it may crack a bit but don’t worry, you’re going to cover it with ganache. Cool completely. • To make the brittle, line a baking tray with a piece of baking paper and spread over the chopped hazelnuts. Put the sugar and a splash of water into a wide pan over a medium heat and bring to the boil, swirling occasionally until caramel forms. Once

Last bite recipe

bubbling, and the colour of a rusty penny, pour over the hazelnuts and leave to cool. • To make the ganache, put the dark chocolate into a medium bowl. Heat the cream until just simmering, pour over the chopped chocolate and gently stir until fully combined. Leave in the fridge to set for 20 minutes until spreadable. • To make the filling, whip the cream with the Baileys, if using, and icing sugar until just holding soft peaks. Unfold the swiss roll and spread the cream over the cooled sponge, leaving 2cm clear at the shorter ends of the cake. Scatter with chopped Ferrero Rocher, roll the cake into a tight spiral and carefully transfer to a serving plate. • Spread the ganache over the cake evenly and create a tree bark effect using a non-serrated knife. Leave to set in the fridge for 10-15 minutes. • Whizz the brittle into chunky pieces in a food processor and scatter all over the chocolate log to serve. PER SERVING 652 KCALS | FAT 46.2G SATURATES 23.5G | CARBS 45G | SUGARS 33G FIBRE 3.5G | PROTEIN 12.4G | SALT 0.4G

Christmas 2018


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Up-to-the-minute food news with daily updates on the latest restaurant openings, hot foodie destinations and inspiring recipes

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RESTAURANTS & TRAVEL From cosy UK gastropubs to the best European Christmas markets, use our globetrotting ideas to plan your getaways.

Newsletter Sign up to our refreshed newsletter for plenty of Christmas gift ideas, festive recipes and winter travel inspiration.

Podcasts Tune in for our weekly podcasts (and videos)!


Yorkshire Wolds Cookery School

Stuck for a new and original Christmas present? We have a range of courses available Gift for all ages Vouchers and levels Available of ability Luxury accommodation on site

B A L LYM A L O E CO O K E RY S C H O O L Southburn, Driffield, East Yorkshire, YO25 9AF

Tel: 01377 270607




Made by Roberts & Sheppey (Melrose) Ltd. Est 1880

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Gift Vouchers Available Shanagarry, Cork, Ireland, P25 R274.

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Leading Global Network of Culinary Arts and Hospitality Management Institutes

Treat you rself tonew sk ills Le Cordon Bleu offers world-class programmes from certificates to professional Diplomas in Cuisine, Pâtisserie, Wine, Nutrition and Management for aspiring chefs, entrepreneurs and hospitality professionals. For gourmet enthusiasts looking to learn some new skills, there is a large variety of short courses from a few hours in the evening or day classes. Thinking of Christmas ideas? La Boutique has a wide range of products from gourmet food, kitchen utensils, souvenirs and books. Gift cards are also available to treat your loved ones.

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Cold Brew coffee liqueur from awardwinning distillers, right here in Dorset. Its time to forget everything you know about coffee liqueur. Conker Cold Brew uses Grade 1 forest-grown Speciality coffees from Brazil and Ethiopia to capture the true taste of espresso. No flavourings, additives or thickeners. Simply the best coffees we could lay our hands on.

“Fantastically true in aroma of freshly ground coffee with a great earthy quality and a rich savouriness” - Great Taste awards 2018 Judge’s notes Please adore Conker® responsibly

No gimmicks. No fuss. Conker Cold Brew doesn’t just taste like coffee, it is coffee. #thatsthespirit


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Est. 1992


A Tasteful Gift If you are looking for a unique Christmas gift for the food lover in your life, an Ashburton Cookery School gift voucher can be used for over 40 cookery courses. From short classes to help them learn a favourite cuisine, to residential courses to learn a wide range of cookery skills they are sure to find a course to suit their taste. Our award-winning courses are taught by inspirational chef tutors using the best locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. Gift vouchers start at £50 and are delivered in an attractive gift card to yourself or direct to your recipient. Visit us online or call us to order today.

Ashburton Cookery School Old Exeter Road · Ashburton · Devon · TQ13 7LG Tel: 01364 652784


Dart Valley Cottages Self catering holiday cottages, Dartmouth and Dittisham, South Devon. Close to National Trust gardens, coastal walks and beaches. 01803 771127


VILLAS WITH POOLS A selection of beautiful individual villas & houses with pools in tranquil settings & areas of traditional local culture. Booking now for 2019 To speak to one of our specialists 01954 261431 or visit our website








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green harissa and yogurt 135 Sancho panza 107 Sherry sour 55 The ultimate turkey gravy 84 Winter veg tian


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MAINS Birds 86 Epic Christmas toastie 72 Gently spiced chicken and vegetable LC 4 soup with coconut and ginger 50 Loaded spiced turkey naan 80 One-tray Christmas dinner 29 Roast duck with crispy potatoes and mulled-wine cherry sauce GF 54 Roast turkey 4 48 Turkey sage cannelloni Meat 72 Beef goulash soup with LC 4 soured cream 30 Hog roast with spiced apple stuffing 70 Leek & potato soup with LC 4 ham hock

pickled onions 28 Sherry-and-quince-glazed ham with pineapple relish


4 GF

Fish & seafood 117 Banker’s fish soup 28 Roast salmon with herb crust and brown shrimp butter Vegetables 72 Beetroot and parsnip soup V LC 4 with horseradish 76 Cherry tomato, roasted pepper V LC GF and spinach Bombay eggs LC 4 78 Ethiopian lentil casserole 28 Giant vegan wellington 64 Halloumi skewers and cauliflower V tabbouleh with pistachios 78 Hasselback squash with chilli maple glaze V 66 Okonomiyaki with avocado 62 Pasta with tomato sauce and V brown caper butter 78 Roasted pepper, sweetcorn and black-eyed bean wraps with chipotle V dressing and avocado spread 30 Roots tatin with three-cheese sauce V 62 Sweet potato wedges LC with hummus 64 Vegetable stew with saffron, curry 4 and parmesan cream 62 Vietnamese peanut rice and lemongrass tofu

41 Baileys tiramisu trifle GF 6 Black forest meringue tower 47 Caramelised onion, sprout and bacon 41 38 40 132 38 39 137

hash with chilli-fried eggs Layered mint chocolate mousse pots Mulled wine winter puddings Pandoro semifreddo Posh breakfast muffins Russian honey cake Speculoos cheesecake Ultimate Christmas yule log






Christmas 2018



146 Christmas 2018

CEMBER E D 8 2 LEWelcome in the new year with Sabrina Ghayourâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s spicy comfort food, knockout salads, crumpet toppers, vegan brownies, sourdough pizzas and foodie adventures in China, Vancouver and the Alps





Yule love it!

yule log p137