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Torres del Paine • Puerto Natales • Punta Arenas • Isla Navarino

Black Volume 2 • Issue 6 • March 2007 • cover image by Diego Araya ©

Organizing Travels in Patagonia



Old meets new in Patagonia Avant-garde hotel hits Puerto Natales

Tierra del Fuego - Destino de Aventureros

Secret destination: Sierra Baguales


News from the front line Letter from the Editor -Rustyn Mesdag Published by Southern Cross Ltda. The Black Sheep Organizing Chilean Patagonia Patagonia, Chile ph +56•61•415749 Production Editor • Design: Rustyn Mesdag Business Director • Advertising Manager: Pilar Irribarra Contributors: Diego Araya Pia Urbina John Pomietlasz Marjan Alkema Andy Tubbs Nicole Miller Consultant: Bill Penhollow The Black Sheep is an independently and locally owned paper, inspired by life abroad. The opinions within the Black Sheep, written or implied, are not necessarily those of the advertisers. We therefore reserve the right to live true to our name, and always remain the Black Sheep.

Welcome to March

this as an annual event. This year it had a pre-

in Patagonia. If you

sentation that zone would expect from a Banff

look closley, you


can see the water

We see this year new restaurants, bars, hotels

line from the high

and services, but personally speaking, I’m pretty

season receed-

happy with finally getting faster Internet at my

by Marjan Alkema

ing a hair. Things keep rolling for a few more

desk! And let’s not leave out that now we can

months, but by March the true craziness seems

buy whole wheat tortillas in town now. There

to subside. If you are trekking now, then you

are now also outdoor hot tubs in town that you

really picked a great time of year - the park isn’t

can recuperate in. I’m telling you - it’s the little

as full as it can be sometimes and the costs that

things that make the difference.

come with trekking in Torres del Paine drop to

It’s not just Natales though, the park gets some

a more reasonable level. All in all, this is a fun

credit too this year.

season so far.

There are now park rangers at Dickson (on

There have been some changes in and around

the back curcuit). This adds a much needed

the park and Puerto Natales this season. With

presence in one of the most remote areas of the

Patagonia and Torres del Paine turning into a

park. In responce to the enviromental nightmare

major international destination, there has been

that was happening near the pass, there is now a

a lot of scrambling to keep up by all of us who

new not-so-swampy trail between Paso and Per-

work and live here. It’s all happening so fast.

ros. Awesome. The new road to the park is still

The first two years I was here I didn’t see a lot

being worked on. When all the new road work

of changes. I was starting to wonder if there was

is completed, it will change the flow of traffic in

any progress around at all around here. I was

the park dramatically. It seems to be headed in

getting a little worried. This year, on the other

the direction of the park, and they seem to keep

hand, it all caught up with itself and things took

showing up to work on it so... good for you

a huge leap forward.

guys keep up the good work I guess. When its

done, it’ll be great.

For all of you that come and go with your

What’s encouraging, is that the season is not

rucksack slung over your shoulder, you dont see

even over yet. The Big Rock Festival is still in

the changes as obviously. But they are there. If

April too.

you know what goes on here, year after year, then you would get pretty exited about the little

To all of you who are reading this on the bus or

things too.

sitting in your hotel or hostel, these things might not effect you much while exploring Patagonia.

The one who started it all...

For example:

But just know there has been a buzz in the air

This year in Puerto Natales, there was a notica-

this year here. I invite you all to come back in a

ble increase in live music. For the locals, guides

couple of years and compare for yourself. It will

and operators that live here, thats is a long

be obvious to you then. Change is afoot.

awaited fix. But there is much more; the town is laying down some new sidewalks, with a little decoration even. Absolutely a good inprovment. The town was in need of a facelift. Not only is the local municipality putting money into passing out cash to local businesses to stimulate some growth in tourism. There is a new Chinese restaurant in town; also a nice addition. There is a new push toward getting some recycling systems up and running in town, and its working with many businesses participating.

The Banff Film Festival rolled after a

few years of it being MIA. We will hopfully see

José Noguiera 1600 +56-61 241357 Punta Arenas, Patagonia, Chile

Trail Etiquette

On the trail, you need to be aware of others. Instead of taking your break in the middle of the trail, try to move well off to the side, so others can pass by easily, without compromising the vegetation. If I am taking a substantial break to eat lunch, fix a blister, etc., I will try to move out of sight as well. Then others can pass me by without even knowing I´m there. We both keep our sense of solitude, which is important to the wilderness experience. While trekking in a team, try to spread out by 20 full paces (or more) to avoid a bumper to bumper if you come head on with another group. With heavy




ames ture fr s · Pic rt · Crafts p m a les · L s rs · A Cand se · Mirro andicraft Incen ed glass · H Stain

Regular dorms & Private rooms with breakfast, hot showers, phone, private bathroom and cable TV - Tourist Information - Torres del Paine & surrounding areas

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Maybe they frightened you at first, annoyed you after a while, and then made you laugh or feel sorry for them. No matter what, street dogs are part of Natalino life. With new pups born every day, nobody really knows how much ‘perritos callejeros’ there really are. Street dogs are very much a part of reality here. For example, every house comes with its own dogs. Wherever you live, they cheerfully greet you when you come home. They will also accompany youwhen you go for a run along the costanera. But they will also keep you awake by barking through the night. So, should you feel frightened by them? No, at least all the dogs I’ve met here are pretty harmless. Annoyed then? Try not to - just see them as part of life in Natales. So, should you feel sorry for them? I’m not sure. They live a free life, laying in the sun or wandering the streets whenever they like. They chase cars and check out what’s left in the garbage. In fact, it´s probable they have more fun than the dogs locked inside a home, made to wait until someone comes home from work just to go for a 10-minute stroll. Try to accept the dogs of Natales like they are, and let them make you smile if they accompany you to the store, bark to defend ‘their’ street, or chase a car. Afterall, they´re locals.

Trail Tips...

Natales, but the Chilean government has been

Comfortable Rooms Fully equiped Kitchen Laundry Service Internet and Telephone View of the Strait of Magellan Patagonian Drinks Coffee shop

Doggy Style

O´Higgins 765 - ph & fax (56-61) 411162 Puerto Natales, Chile email

packs, you might not have a chance to avoid a collision. Spread out and look around at the views. You don´t need to be staring at the backside of the person in front of you all the time. Sticking to the trails is important. Stepping off the trail to avoid a muddy patch or puddle only widens the trail, or creates a second, or sometimes third trail. In time, these side trails will become muddy as well. The same holds true while in Torres del Paine or on the Dientes Circuit (Patagonia.) Remember, boots are meant to get dirty.

D ow n Tow n H o s t e l Address: Armando Sanhueza 555 Phone: (56-61) 222219 - 221009 Cell Ph: 09 91229555 - 09 84394174 Punta Arenas, Chile

N e a r S h o p p i n g & S e r v i ce s

The other Torres Del Paine Locally sold, Natales tested outdoor threads

® While strolling around the streets of Puerto Natales, you see a variety of outdoor garments adorning the countless trekkers, climbers and backpackers passing through town. But take a closer look, because you’ll see a new performance gear manufacturer name; one with hometown Chilean Patagonia roots. Torres del Paine® is a burgeoning technical outdoor wears company that’s growing out of the local Natales economy by tapping into the international popularity of the nearby famed (and comparatively named) Torres Del Paine National Park. TdP, the company, was started here in Puerto Natales six years ago by Patricio Achurra. He is a seasoned garment manufacturer, and ran his first clothing outfit with a partner from his native city of Santiago in 1992. A lifetime athlete, but not necessarily an ¨expeditionist,¨ he came up with the idea of starting a technical clothing company after admiring two separate Chilean campaigns ¨race¨ to summit Mt. Everest first. What followed was a dream to localize

the outdoor technical clothing industry while increasing the awareness of Chile’s natural splendor. ¨I wanted well designed clothes for the best athletes,¨ says Achurra. ¨And creating attention to the park’s beauty, I can´t deny.¨ Known simply around town as ¨Pato,¨ he works in close conjunction with Chile´s, more specifically, Puerto Natale´s most seasoned outdoor enthusiasts to test equipment measurements and durability. Andrew Tubbs, an adventure racer attempting to run the circuit trek of the park in record time, is one of the gear guinea pigs. ¨For technical running gear, it has superior fit than other brands,¨ says Tubbs. ¨During training sessions in the park, it stood up to heavy rain and harsh winds, allowing for peak performance. From the company’s inception, Achurra has placed an overwhelming emphasis on quality. His first fleece jackets were constructed with industry leading materials like Polartec; the warm, yet breathing weave that maintains its softness trek after trek. However, Achurra lacked the experience and knowledge to design form fitting garments. Like any beginner, he looked to the best for inspiration. The cuts and designs of mega manufacturers like Patagonia and Mountain Hardwear became basic templates for his wears until he formulated an

 by John Pomietlasz approach of his own. ¨The first year or two had a few fitting challenges,¨ he says. ¨Now athletes can be sure they have the best.¨ Pato is optimistic about the future of his company. This year’s jacket designs were modified to a sleeker fit, and the quality of manufacturing always elevates. ¨Each year’s design is a constant improvement,¨ Tubbs says. Moreover, he constantly seeks out better materials, hoping to make his company’s name synonymous with technical superiority. He currently works with Event, a new technical fabric that is said to breathe three times more than GORE-TEX. ¨It’s the future of the company,¨ says Pato. With Patagonia’s acclaim, and the popularity of Las Torres flourishing, Pato feels he has the potential to assume a solid position in the international industry. And coming from the lands of Patagonia, the locals acknowledge that the brand is home-grown; more people around town are wearing the gear and the staff of Erratic Rock is Pato´s official test team. ¨I want this company to grow out of and represent this town,¨ says Pato. “I hope guides and companies based in Patagonia choose Torres Del Paine® so we can have a better show of what Patagonia means to us.”

The Longest Trek in the World The “Sendero de Chile” is a huge project that aims to link Chilean people and foreigners with the natural, cultural, ethnic and scenic variety of the country. By the year 2010 it will be the longest trail in the world, with an extension over 8,500 kilometers. This path will link the plateau and the most barren desert of the world. It will span the central valleys and cities, parks, woods, lakes and volcanoes in southern Chile. It crosses the austral glaciers, expanses of the Patagonia pampas, and finally, the main island ecosystems. Paths branch out to Isla de Pascua in Archipielago de Juan Fernández and Isla Grande de Chiloé. Currently, ¨Sendero de Chile¨ has 35 treks that form this amazing route with more than 1,200 kilometers along the country. Each journey links to a unique geographical con-

dition, but also to very particular and natural tourist attraction. In the Magallanes region, three trails exist: “Isla Navarino in Cabo de Hornos,” “Reserva Nacional de Magallanes” and “Ruta Patrimonial Milodon,” (which is a few kilometers from Puerto Natales.) Ruta Patrimonial Milodón: This trail begins 20 kilometers north of the Milodon Cave, in the “Nuevo camino al Parque Nacional Torres Del Paine,” or Lago Porteño way. The trail is 42 kilometers in lenth, and begins at the foot of Cerro Tenerife hill. During the easy hike, enjoy the magnificent landscape of the the Paine Grande Massif, and the three lakes nearby: The Porteño, The Maravilla and The Toro. It´s also possible to see the Tyndall and Grey Glaciers and part of the southern ice field. Finally, the journey ends at the Serrano Ri-

Puma Lottery by Marjan Alkema There are people that have spent years working in the park and never saw a puma in their lives. But then there are also those day trippers who take a strolls on Lago Grey’s beach, and suddenly come eye to eye with a puma. But… what to do when you win the puma lottery? 1. Most important, don’t run! The puma might think you’re a juicy (and easy to catch) boxed lunch on the run. With a puma, the slogan “act

like a victim, become a victim,” holds true. 2. Make yourself look bigger and more dangerous than the puma in front of you. The puma will leave if it’s not sure it’s going to win. One small, even non-lethal wound to a puma may inhibit its ability to hunt properly. This could endanger its life, so it normally would back off safe. Make a lot of noise too. Use jackets or a backpack cover (or whatever else you may think of at this moment) to hold over your head for appearances sake. 3. And last of all, but not least important… smile (This may be difficult based on your proximity to the puma) take a moment to realize how lucky you really are for winning the lottery.

March 2007



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Money Exchange Patagonia will change your life. We can change your money.

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ver, next to the Torres del Paine National Park. Walking the whole path takes about three to four days, so camping at Rio Ventisquero, El Salto and Rio Serrano is plausible. The environmental characteristics of this path are a feature of the patagonia climate, with a wide variety of native vegetation like lengas, coigues, ñirres, maitenes, ciruelillos and calafates. You can also see different kind of birds like condors, eagles and parrots. Fox and pumas are possible to see too. The trail is in an improvement phase at present, so its infrastructure is still basic. The trail is accessible from its starting point to the end in Rio Serrano. There you can visit the Torres del Paine National Park, or make a descent by zodiac through the river, visiting Balmaceda and Serrano glacier and continuing by boat to Puerto Natales.



*Rooms with private & shared bathrooms *Cooking Facilities *Laundry Service *Free Bag Storage *English Information *Rental Equipment *Half Block from Main Square *Daily Buses to Torres del Paine *Argentine Excursion Destinations and more... Phillipi 528 - Puerto Natales, Chile 56-61 413543

Open all day

Puerto Natales / Torres del Paine Questions & Answers

What’s the weather going to be like for the next few days? That’s the forbidden question. But we put this one in just for fun! .... No, really, what’s the weather going to be like? I need to know what to pack! Plan for everything, but mostly cold. The weather changes constantly. How far is it to the park from here? From Natales, by bus, it takes about 2 to 2.5 hours. What time do the buses leave in the morning? Most of the buses pick-up between 7 to 8am. There is also a 2pm bus. What’s up with all the dogs? Half of them are street dogs, half of them are owned but run free anyway. Together they make more street dogs. It’s a circle of life thing... Can the buses to the park pick me up from my hostel? Some do. It depends if your hostel is friendly with the bus company. How can I book a refugio? In town, go to Pathgone or Comapa. How much does camping cost in the park? Camping costs 3500 pesos per person, not per tent, at the privately run sites. The CONAF sites are free. So, I pay an entrance fee AND pay to camp? Yep, and don’t forget your bus ticket, mini shuttle or catamaran, as well - all in Pesos only. Which campsites are free? Los Guardas, Italiano, Británico, Japones, Camp Las Torres, Paso, Pingo and Las Carretas.

At what time do the stores open in the morning? Don’t count on the stores being open before 9:30am. What about midday? Between 12 and 3 everything is pretty locked down, except for the supermarkets. Where can I buy camping food in town? There are three bigger supermarkets in town, the Magno located one block south from the Santiago Santander bank. The Don Bosco and Super Mix are both on the main streets of Baquedano and Bulnes. How do I contact the park’s Search and Rescue if something happens? There is no official Search and Rescue in the park, but any of the CONAF Ranger stations will help you. What are the winters like around here? Calm, blue, clear, freezing and beautiful. How cold does it get in the park at night? In summer, not freezing. But it can still get close sometimes. Can I rent a tent, sleeping bag and matress at the refugios? Yes, but you can’t take them with you as you trek. How much does the catamaran to Pehoe cost in the park? The Catamaran costs 11.000 pesos per person one way. 17.000 round trip. Is there food sold in the park? You can buy hot meals in the refugios. As far as buying camp food, you can find some staples at refugios. Can I cook in the refugios? In the nicer, bigger refugios you can usually find a gas stove to use, but no real kitchen facilities.

Why do all the girls here wear those uniform mini skirts to school in such a cold and windy place? Another big mystery, but we are pretty sure it was a man’s idea. How much do the taxis cost? From 6am to 1am it’s 800 pesos. From 1am to 6am it’s 1.000 pesos. (Within city limits.) How long does the trekking season last? Roughly from October to April, but it’s growing more every year. The truth is that it’s beautiful here all the time, the park is great in winter. Are there backpackers here in winter? Not many in June, July and August... yet. What time is sunrise and sunset? It changes of course, but the map you receive when you enter the park has some of that info on the back. When do the bars start hopping? If you’re really going to go out, and do it up right, don’t worry about starting until midnight... and don’t plan on coming home until breakfast. What’s up with me not being able to flush my toilet paper down the toilet? Do I really have to throw it in the waste basket?! It depends on where you are. Sometimes it’s fine to flush it, but if it says not to, DON’T! A bit gross and bizarre, I know, but the pipes from yester-year just can’t handle it. If the weather is nice on the first day, should I go see the towers first? Any experienced climber, trekker or hiker will tell you to make a plan and stick to it, but as long as your logistics all work out there is nothing wrong in a little improv.

Punta Arenas Rio Turbio, Argentina Trekking Dorotea

Cerro Castillo Milodon Cave Puerto Prat Puerto Bories

Puerto Natales, Chile

i lip

hi A. Prat





B. Arana



T. Rogers



V v$ $

M. Bulnes





B. Zamora




E. Ramirez





B. Encalada

C. Pinto

O’Higgins Magallanes

P. Montt




Are the times on the trail maps accurate? The times are pretty good on the CONAF map, depending on your physical condition. Some of the books seem to be a bit off though. Is it worth renting a car to get around instead of using the buses? Depends on your budget and your destination. Public transportation is always a good ideas when possible, but there is a lot of Patagonia out there that has no public buses. To see those places, getting a few people to pitch in for a car can make for a unique experience. Do I get a map when I enter the park? Yes. You can buy a nicer wall map in town. Do I need sunscreen in the park? Absolutely! The hole in the ozone hovers right over us this time of year. It can and will cause you problems after a multi-day trek in the park. The UV rays come through the clouds too, so don’t go light on the sun protection. Where can I buy white gas? The pharmacies carry clean white gas. You can start finding them in some of the outdoor and building material stores too. What’s up with all the military guys walking around town? There is a military base located right outside of town. Why do I get given a piece of little receipt paper every time I buy something? It´s the law, no joke. Everyone takes it very seriously. Do I need to tie up my food in the park? Not really. But mice and/or a fox might get into your vestabule. It’s best to sleep with your food in the tent, with you. Can you drink the water in the park? You bet! Best water in the world. Just make sure it’s fresh run off, no lake water or anything down stream from a camp or refugio. Why do I seem to understand LESS Spanish in Chile than anywhere else? Chileans down here talk really fast and with a lot of slang. Why is there so much garbage on the beach? That is a very good question. Do I have to worry about making a reservation for the bus on my way back from Torres del Paine? No. There is almost always room, and they never leave anyone behind. They always work it out for you. ...and all the buses and all the boats meet up with each other perfectly, crazy I know.

Need More?

A free information talk is given at Erratic Rock everyday at 3pm. It includes information about the Park, logistics, food prep, programs, clothing and any questions you might have. Need a trekking partner? The 3 o’clock talk is a great place to meet other solo trekkers! Bring pen & paper, sit with some real coffee and figure out what you need and who’s going where.

 Torres del Paine Bus Schedules

Trail Tips...

Via Paine / Andescape - Eberhard 599 - Ph 412877 Puerto Natales – Torres del Paine

Trip 1

Torres del Paine – Puerto Natales

Trip 2

Trip 1

Nalgene Bottles

Trip 2

Puerto Natales






Laguna Amarga









Laguna Amarga






Puerto Natales



If you’re not sure what a Nalgene bottle is, just find yourself a Yank; they will probably have one. These Lexan bottles are quickly becoming industry standard for trekkers and climbers. They are bullet proof, won´t leak and are guaranteed for life. The little bottles are a must while trekking. The large mouth type makes for easier filling at a water source, and for harvesting snow in an alpine environment, but it’s a little more difficult to drink out of while walking. Here are a few good tricks... 1. While making your nightly boil for dinner on the trail, boil an extra liter to make your Nalgene a great hot water bottle for your sleeping bag. This will raise the average temperature of your bag, and will do wonders for sore trekking feet. Throw your wet socks or gloves down there with the hot water bottle and it will dry everything like an oven in your sleeping bag. 2. Want eggs on the trail? Break a few eggs into a Nalgene for omelettes on that first morning out. This is a mess-free way of creating a breakfast upgrade. 3. Using a large mouth Nalgene to carry and protect dry and powdered goods is another great use. Whether it’s oatmeal or powdered soup mix for the long haul, a Nalgene can give you a hard, waterproof case.

Gomez -Arturo Prat 234 - Ph 411971 Puerto Natales – Torres del Paine Puerto Natales Laguna Amarga

Torres del Paine – Puerto Natales














Laguna Amarga






Puerto Natales



Natales - Torres del Paine

Torres del Paine - Natales

Andescape Buses JB - Arturo Prat7.30 258 - Ph 410242 (Laguna Amarga) Ph 412877 Puerto Natales – Torres del Paine


Torres del Paine – Puerto Natales

Puerto Natales




(Pudeto) Administration


Laguna Amarga






13.45 17.30







(Administration) Laguna Amarga 14.30




Puerto Natales

Gomez Ph 415700



(Laguna Amarga)



13.00 15.00 2 hrs 30 3 hrs 15 14.00 3 hrs 45 13.00

Punta Arenas - Puerto Natales

Buses Fernandez Ph 411111 E. Ramírez 399

7.15 9.00 13.00 14.30 17.00 18.30 20.00 7.30 10.00 13.30 18.00

Buses Fernandez Ph. 242313 Arm. Sanhueza 745

7.00 8.30 15.00 19.00

Bus Sur Ph. 244464 José Menéndez 552

Bus Sur Ph 411859 Baquedano 668

Bus Pacheco Ph. 242174 Colón 900

March 2007

Dorm bed Camping Sleeping bag 2 person Tent Mattress





March 16 to 31, 2006

18:00pm 12:00pm

18:30pm 12:30pm

April 2007

18:00pm 12:00pm

18:30pm 12:30pm

9.00 15.00 17.00 19.00

A comfortable & secure voyage across Lake Pehoe... These prices are in US dollars. Paying in Chilean pesos adds tax.

Fantastico Sur - Las Torres, Chileno, Los Cuernos +56-61 360360

Andescape - Dickson, Lago Grey +56-61 412592 $8.50 $13.00 $15.00 $59.00

November 1 to March 15, 2007

8.00 9.00 13.00 14.30 17.00 18.30 20.00 8.30 14.00 18.30 19.30

Torres del Paine Refugio Information Breakfast Lunch Dinner Full board

Pudeto Pehoe

One way ticket $11.000 per person (one backpack is allowed) Round trip ticket $17.000 per person Los Arrieros 1517. Puerto Natales. Phone 61-411380. Mail:

Puerto Natales - Punta Arenas

Bus Pacheco Ph 414513 Baquedano 500



Remember: Hostería Las Torres operates a transfer that connects to all the (Pudeto) buses that arrive at and leave from Laguna Amarga (cost is13.45 $2 USD). (Administration) Approximate travel times from Puerto Natales (allow for border crossings and tour connections within park) JB 7.30 (Laguna Amarga) El Calafate 5 hrs TDP L. Amarga Ph 412824 Punta Arenas 3 hrs TDP Pudeto (Pudeto) Ushuaia 15 hrs TDP Admin (Administration)

Torres del Paine


$25.00 $7.00 $7.50 $13.00 $3.50

Breakfast Lunch Dinner Full board

$8.00 $12.00 $14.00 $63.00

Dorm bed Camping Sleeping bag 2 person Tent Mattress

$33.00 $7.00 $7.00 $11.00 $3.00

Vertice - Paine Grande Mountain Lodge +56-61 412742 Breakfast Lunch Dinner Full board

$9.00 $12.00 $15.00 $63.00

Dorm bed Camping Sleeping bag 2 person Tent Mattress

$35.00 $7.00 $9.00 $14.00 $3.00

Sheep Shearing

Discounts for Travelers The Black Sheep would like to thank all the local businesses that make being a traveler a little easier.

50% off backpackers yoga session Susan Steiger galvarino 345 pto.natales, chile


D ow n Tow n H o s t e l 10% OFF Glacier Grey Ice Hike

cash discount 10% off

This coupon is redeemable for a 10% discount on Daily Ice Hikes on Glacier Grey. Valid for 2006-07 season. Can be redeemed at Eberhard 302, Baquedano 719 in Puerto Natales or at the Operations Hut at Glacier Grey in Torres del Paine National Park.

ÑANDÚ Hand Crafts

5% off any cash purchase

Eberhard 301 Puerto Natales, Chile ph. 414382 - 415660 Cerro Castillo ph. 691932 - 413063 ANEXO 122

Address: Armando Sanhueza 555 Punta Arenas, Chile

This coupon is redeemable for a 10% discount on a regional cheese plate with the purchase of wine for two.

Eberhard 161 - Puerto Natales, Chile - ph+56-61

10% off Trekkers Massage

Puma Exploraciones 10% off any day climb




Eberhard 161 Pto. Natales, Chile ph. 415749

erratic rock 2 B. Za m o r a 7 3 2 P t o N a t a l e s ww w. e r r a t i c r o c k . c o m

Free bottle of wine upon first night’s visit! expires March 31, ‘07

A. Prat 337 Puerto Natales, Chile Phone 412869

for Travelers

10% off

Torres del Paine, Chile +56-61 360 360

10% off any program

S ENA A AR Z 891 T N PU RI AZU 214 ERR NO: 240 FO

ilLaundry ServLaundry Service

Confirmation # _________________________

Aqua Nativa Sea Kayak Patagonia

ase h c r u

p any

for laundry drop off before 10am

Indian Adventure Travel

15% off rentals 10% off other services Bulnes 469 Pto Natales, Chile +56-61 415753

O’ Sole Mio


10% off any purchase

Punta Arenas, Chile O’Higgins 974 Phone: 242026

10% off any purchase Eusebio Lillo 1417 ph 412052 Puerto Natales, Chile

EMPORIO de la Pampa Eberhard 226 -Puerto Natales, Patagonia, Chile

This coupon is redeemable for a 10% discount on a 1 hour massage. Valid season 2006-07.

tel: 413829

10% off any cafetería ph +56-61 412239 Bulnes 299 Pto. Natales

erratic rock Baquedano 719 Pto Natales w w w. e r r a t i c r o c k . c o m

Single room for the price of a dorm

GOLDEN DRAGON 5% off your meal Bulnes 439 - Puerto Natales Manuel Señoret 908 - Punta Arenas

Mountain House Address: Bories 655 L-2 Punta Arenas, Chile

10% off any cash purchase Phone / Fax 56•61•415285 Barros Arana 233 Puerto Natales, Patagonia, Chile

10% off any purchase This coupon is redeemable for a 10% discount on chocolate, coffee, ice cream & brownies.

The Province of Last Hope by Cristina Yañez

Covering a beautiful and varied landscape filled with valleys, rivers, lakes and the high mountainous peaks of Torres del Paine, the territory of this province extends between approximately 50 and 53 degrees of southern latitude and between 72,15 and 73,30 of occidental longitude.

What and Where is Cabo Froward? The bottom of Africa and Australia are easy to find. They’re just spots on a map that you drive your car to, get out, take a photo next to the sign and drive off. Not the case for Cabo Froward; the bottom point of South America. Trekking to Cabo Froward is only for those ready to get completely away from the masses, willing to put themselves in a place where the words ‘self reliance’ cannot be taken lightly. The trek begins where the dirt road ends. The old, deep forests of huge coigues and the views of the channels surrounding mountains are incredible. The hike covers sand, rainforest and rock, plus two large, cold, strip down and hold your pack over your head river crossings. The trail is not always clearly marked and finding a reliable map is next to impossible. The final goal is to reach the crucifix that overlooks the end of the American continent. This trek is not for everyone. There is no help or contact with the world for days. The weather can be equally beautiful and unforgiving. This completely self supported trip can be called nothing less then extreme trekking.

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There were many events that shaped the progress of its occupation and settlement, the first being the expedition of Captain Juan Fernández de Ladrillero, who in 1557 navigated a large part of the maritime area, including the fjord called “Last Hope.” After more than three centuries had passed, a colony was started for the purposes of raising sheep in early 1892, thanks to the pioneering activities of Captain Hermann Eberhard and other hardworking landowners. Without a doubt there were three important moments in the first years of the twentieth century that had an important effect on Natales’ history: the so called “Laudo Arbitral” that defined the border with Argentina in 1902, the acquisition of lands at the beginning of 1905 and the construction of the infrastructure in order to industrialize the exportation of sheep livestock by the Operating Society of Tierra del Fuego and finally, the foundation of the city of Puerto Natales in 1911. From the time of Ladrillero until the first two decades of the twentieth century, the period to which a great part of the province’s buildings originate, it was only possible to enter by horse or boat from Punta Arenas to the eastern coast of the Almirante Montt Gulf through the Señoret Canal or Last Hope Sound. Even this didn’t prevent the precarious formation of sheep herding that extended to the Sierra Baguales in the north, to the mountainous hills in the west and occupying towards the east the lands that after the Laudo of 1902 remained in Argentinian territory. This area, however, owing to the distant coastal Atlantic, maintained strong commercial and social links with the province of Last Hope until the advance of the twentieth century. In the beginning of 1905, the Operating Society of Tierra del Fuego (SETF), bought the better part of the 500,000 hectares designated for sheepherding in the province, taking the place of the first landowners that had occupied those lands. In one decade, the SETF planned and brought about the construction of the origins of towns like Cerro Castillo, Cerro Guido, and the Bories Estate as well as a new network of roads and a train that transported its workers to and from Puerto Natales. The industrial establishment of Port Bories, today partly demolished, was one of the best hierarchies constructed in Chile at the beginning of the twentieth century, with a mixed architectural style of brick, wood and corrugated iron and a productive technology comparable to the industrial projects in Europe at that time. The old parts of Cerro Castillo and the Bories Estate (today involved in other

activities) are also an important inheritance given that they conserve with great measure their spatial organization and distant warehouses for living, dining, offices and storage etc., with an esthetic austerity that remains united as a whole. Although dispersed in rural Last Hope, and of small proportions, there are many older parts such as those of Amarga Lagoon, Cerro Guido, Tres Pasos and what remains of Port Consuelo which all form the predecessors of the architectural inheritance of Last Hope. In the Señoret Canal, in the vicinity of the Natales River (where the city of Puerto Natales got its name), some corrals, homes and scattered warehouses were gradually constructed at the end of the nineteenth century. A hotel with a general store was built by the businessman Rudolfo Stubenrauch and another was constructed by the Spaniard José Iglesias. In order to regulate this spontaneous settlement, in 1900 the government established a 200 hectares reserve and then assumed a planned design for a new village with 77 sites, finally being decreed in 1911 by the Supreme Court that officially founded the city. From this time and from an amplification of the original nucleus that was carried out in 1935, this infrastructure is in its original form with its principal streets that head towards the water and that frequently head off the wind and rain. As testimony to the violent protests of 1919 and until the 1950́s, the majority of the workers were sheepherders from the meat packing plants of Port Bories and Port Natales and those with temporary work in the Argentine and Chilean estates. The urban landscape was therefore of a city with apple trees surrounding the plaza and buildings bordering it with a modest architecture made of wood and corrugated iron, similar to the peripheral neighborhoods of Punta Arenas, where they had in some areas buildings made up of two floors, such as that of the Municipal building in Puerto Natales. The parochial church was the only brick building of its time and it was the work of the Salesian priest Juan Bernabé (1930). However, the artistic capacity of its settlers coming from Chiloé succeeding in setting up social meeting places and commercial establishments with distinctive characteristics that are to this day maintained as a valuable inheritance that was extended and renovated in the last few years.

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Despite the fiscal investments in service and equipment brought about through the creation of the Department of New Hope (1928), with architecture different from the regional traditions, Natales recovered its urban dynamics only two decades ago as a result of the fishing and tourism industries. Because of the natural beauty that Father D’agostini discovered in this area in 1917, the Torres del Paine National Park was formed and made popular in 1961. Eusebio Lillo 1417 Puerto Natales, Chile ph +56-61 412052



Punta Arenas, Chile Pje Korner 1034 Phone +56-61 242311

Tierra del Fuego: Aventura, emoción y leyenda -Pilar Irribarra ¿De viaje por Patagonia? te animamos a conocer Tierra del Fuego Chilena hasta su extremo sur. La isla es misteriosa y fascinante con paisajes que emocionan y leyendas que hacen encender la imaginación de todos los aventureros.

Tierra del Fuego es compartida por Chile y Argentina, a los que les corresponde la parte occidental y oriental respectivamente. La parte oriental o de la Republica Argentina es visitada por miles de turistas que llegan hasta Ushuaia de todos los rincones del mundo; pero poco se sabe del “lado chileno”, ¿Que secretos esconde? la isla en su cara occidental va de pampa a bosque, cordillera y glaciares…y es posiblemente, la reserva natural más prístina de la Patagonia. Porvenir la capital fueguina, es un buen lugar para comenzar tu aventura hacia el extremo sur de la isla; para ello te recomendamos arrendar una camioneta en Punta Arenas, contratar previamente el servicio de transporte con guíaconductor a una agencia o hacer el recorrido en bicicleta…sea cual sea tu decisión Porvenir es el ultimo lugar donde podrás comprar alimentos, cargar bencina (llevar unos bidones extras), sacar dinero de un redbanc y pedir toda la información que necesitas para tu viaje. En Porvenir tienes restaurantes y hoteles, durante tu estadía te recomendamos visitar el museo Fernando Cordero Rusque, en el se exhibe una muestra fotográfica y arqueológica de los Onas u Selknam y Yaghanes, aborígenes extinguidos de la isla, información sobre el hallazgo y explotación del oro, una colección de retablos de las casas más bellas de Tierra del Fuego, así como una sección de historia natural, arqueología y etnografía. Otro buen panorama es el avistamiento de Delfines desde una lancha

en Bahía Chilota…no te lo pierdas!! Una vez rumbo al sur por el camino internacional, puedes visitar el Circuito del Oro, en el Cordón Baquedano, donde es posible obtener una vista espectacular del Estrecho de Magallanes, además de visitar un área donde los pirquineros del lugar realizan extracción de oro. Puedes conocerlos y hablar con ellos de su historia y vida, además de comprobar in situ como se encuentran las pepitas de oro con la misma técnica que hace cien años Continuando tu aventura hacia Onaisin, observa con atención cada hito histórico los que dan fe de un pasado en el cual la Sociedad Explotadora de Tierra del Fuego, dejo importantes huellas. Veras por ejemplo en el sector de Bahía Inútil, el vestigio de lo que fue el Puerto Nuevo, donde existió una grasería dependiente de la ex estancia Caleta Josefina. En la actualidad se pueden apreciar restos de las instalaciones y numerosas máquinas. En el km. 100, encontraras Onaisín o ex estancia Caleta Josefina, esta fue la primera estancia fundada en 1883 por la Sociedad Explotadora Tierra del Fuego. En el lugar aun se conservan algunos edificios y se puede visitar el Cementerio de Onaisín, que corresponde a pobladores y colonos. Fué declarado Monumento Nacional en 1976. Durante tu travesía por la pampa te encontraras con la faena de esquila, la cual se realiza cada verano por una “comparsa” o grupo esquilador que recorre las estancias de Tierra del Fuego, extrayendo la lana de miles y miles de ovinos. Un alto en el camino … Cameron es un buen lugar para detenerse, comer o simplemente contemplar como transcurre la vida en los paisajes fueguinos, cuenta con Municipalidad, Carabineros, escuela y casa de huéspedes. Cameron nació sobre el casco de una antigua estancia fundada en 1904 por la Sociedad Explotadora de Tierra del Fuego y bautizada con el nombre de uno de sus gerentes. Sus edificios exhiben la típica arquitectura promovida por los ingleses, con superficies revestidas de planchas y estampadas con ricas molduras. Desde Cameron debes decidir tomar el camino por la costa que conduce a los aserraderos de Puerto Yartou, Río Cóndor (famoso por su pesca) y Puerto Arturo con buenos lugares para acampar o seguir hacia el sur por el camino que conduce a Lago Blanco, que se interna por

DATOS PRACTICOS Vías de acceso a la isla: Vía Aérea. Existe una línea aérea que tiene más de una frecuencia diaria la cual dura aproximadamente 15 minutos desde Punta Arenas a Porvenir; en aviones tipo Twin Otter o Cessna, dependiendo de la demanda.

la pampa y pasa por distintas “secciones” y “puestos” de la antigua estancia. En el camino se encuentra la inmensa draga aurífera que fue traída de Inglaterra en 1904 y funcionó hasta 1910. También estánlas instalaciones de la Sección Russfin y la Sección Río Grande -antiguas estancia- y las estancias Onamonte, Vicuña, Río Chico, Las Flores, etc. De la pampa al bosque y cordillera… Al sur de Pampa Guanacos comienzan los bosques de lengas y también las castoreras. Los amantes de la pesca deportiva encuentran su paraíso en río Rasmussen y río Grande, además del bellísimo Lago Blanco. Si deseas continuar hasta el final del camino debes retomar la ruta principal y seguir rumbo a lago Fagnano en el trayecto te maravillaras con los paisajes cordilleranos y puedes visitar Lago Deseado y Despreciado. Al llegar a Lago Fagnano, observaras como continúan los trabajos para abrir una de las sendas más inexploradas de Chile la ruta hacia Estancia Yendegaia que permitirá conectar con Puerto Williams. La tarea es difícil ya que hay que cruzar Cordillera de Darwin por lo que se estima que el proyecto completo demorara un par de años más. Por el momento ya es un gran regalo poder llegar hasta los paisajes mágicos del Fagnano, aunque si eres un aventurero la ruta hasta Yendegaia la puedes continuar a caballo o realizar un Trekking de unos 5 días hasta la estancia. Así finaliza el recorrido hacia el sur de la isla, al menos el tramo vehicular. En conclusión, si eres de aquellos que les gusta descubrir lugares donde la naturaleza se muestra salvaje y terminar el día en una fogata o pescando en agua cristalinas, Tierra del Fuego es tu destino….

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Vía Terrestre. Para llegar a Porvenir es necesario cruzar el caudaloso Estrecho de Magallanes a Tierra del Fuego es necesario embarcar en los ferries que zarpan desde Tres Puentes, en la ciudad de Punta Arenas, o en la Primera Angostura, distante 170 kms de Punta Arenas, embarcaciones que tienen acomodaciones tanto para pasajeros como para vehículos. Vía Marítima. Desde Punta Arenas se cruza el Estrecho de Magallanes en un trasbordador especialmente equipado para el transporte de pasajeros y vehículos. El trayecto dura 3 horas aproximadamente y tiene una frecuencia diaria. Hoteles Tierra del Fuego •Hotel España croacia 698. Porvenir fax : (61) 580160 •Hostería Tunkelen arturo prat # 101 Cerro Sombrero. •Alojamiento y excursiones. Sr. German Genkowski Tel. 61-216349. Lago Fagnano, Tierra del Fuego •Hosteria Las Lengas.. Tel.61-211427. Lago Blanco, Tierra del Fuego •Refugio de caza y pesca de ENAP. Tel.61211754-298386. Lago Blanco Tierra del Fuego •Almuerzo y cena en Cameron. Sra Eufrocina Hernandez . Tel.216349 Agencias •Cordillera de Darwin Tel. 61-580167, •Turismo Yamana Tel. (56) 61 710 567 - 710 568, •Aquanativa Sea Kayak Tel. 61-415749.

Black Sheep Spotlight: Baguales - Latitude: 50° 37’ 60 S Longitude: 72° 46’ 60 W The Land of Wild Horses by Marjan Alkema & Robbie Gruyters

In many places one can still observe Patagonia as it has been for hundreds of years; without paved roads, electricity cables, urbanization or organized tourism. Sierra Baguales is one of these places where it is still possible to wander around for days without seeing any signs of human activity.

What´s in a name

Bagual: wild horse or cow or domestic animal that has broken loose. The word ‘bagual’ was taken from the Spanish by the Indians to indicate a horse. In the Pampas, it was pronounced kawal. The gauchos then borrowed the word from the Indians and transformed it into ¨bagual¨ to indicate a wild animal.

Countless times on my way to Torres del Paine, when all other eyes were focused on getting the first views of the Paine massif, mine wandered to the opposite direction. In the distance, the mysterious peaks of the Baguales mountain range “the land of wild horses”, come into focus. Close to Torres del Paine geografically, but contrasting in geology, these Marlboro country mountains were calling for exploration. On a sunny February day I decided with some friends to rent a car for the weekend to unravel the secrets of Baguales. Heading there, ignoring the side roads to the national park, we soon entered a totally different world. Although located so close to the Paine Massif, Baguales is different in almost every aspect. Thousands of years of glacial erosion have left a unique and impressive landscape, full of big rock pillars that look like giants guarding the mountains. We decided to drive down until Estancia La Cumbre, where we started our exploration on foot by crossing an icy cold river. Being only an hour on our way, we had already crossed paths with a group of wild horses. They gave an even better impression of the enormousness of the mountains. That night we camped at the shores of a little lake fed by a spring coming right out of a mountain. With the total silence, the moonlight and the giants overlooking us, this campsite had a magical beauty. The next day we spent ascending one of the mountains. Climbing up to the cathedrallike pillars, the mountain range revealed more and more of its secrets; bright yellow and red colored formations and a labyrinth of dead end valleys. Arriving at the top of the mountain the breathtaking 360° view of the surroundings was our reward. On one side a totally different view of the Paine massif and by just turning our head we could see Fitz Roy in Argentina, the peaks of the southern ice field and stunning U-shaped valleys in between. Without any doubt one of the most spectacular look-out points Patagonia has to offer. How to get there: To get to Sierra Baguales you need your own vehicle, since regular tours to the area don’t exist. From Puerto Natales you follow the road towards Torres del Paine. After an hour you will get to the tiny village Cerro Castillo, from where you will keep following the direction of the National Park. Continue on this road, and ignore the side roads to Laguna Amarga and Sarmiento. You will keep following direction ‘La Cumbre’. After passing Estancia/Lodge Cerro Guido you will get to a trisection, where you continue towards ‘Los Leones - 3R – La Cumbre’. After about 20 minutes you will reach the fence of Estancia ‘La Cumbre’. If you want to explore the area a bit more, park your car there and walk down to the river that you follow till the fence, where you cross it and continue on the other side. March 2007

Leave No Trace in Sierra Baguales -Plan ahead and Prepare: Prepare for extreme weather, hazards and emergencies. Keep a distance from your fellow hikers when climbing on loose rocks. -Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces: Good campsites are found, not made. -Dispose of Waste Properly: Pack it in, pack it out. Pack out all trash, leftover food and litter, this includes toilet paper and hygiene products. Deposit solid human waste in catholes dug 6 to 8 inches deep at least 200 feet from water, camp and trails. -Leave What you Find: Preserve the past, observe but do not touch cultural or historic structures and artifacts. -Minimize Campfire Impacts: Campfires can cause lasting impacts to the back country. Use a lightweight stove for cooking and enjoy a candle lantern for light. -Respect Wildlife: Do not follow or approach wildlife; observe from a distance.


Archaeological studies carried out, have confirmed that approximately 5500 years ago there were humans dwelling in Ultima Esperanza. These first inhabitants belonged to a culture of hunters; Aonikenk (people of the south), Tehuelches or Patagones, who lived of guanaco, small rodents and birds. At the beginning of the 20th century, large groups of wild horses settled in the green valleys of the rivers flowing from the Sierra Baguales. Their presence gave the indigenous people reason to frequent the district of Ultima Esperanza, with the intention of increasing their number of horses. The Baqueanos arrived in the south west of Patagonia in the middle of the 19th century. These horsemen learned their trade in a harsh apprenticeship with raw experience and Mother Nature being their principal teachers. This huge territory was previously unknown to the white man and in their travels the baqueanos revealed the mystery of the undiscovered interior of south western Patagonia, an area which formerly had been the sole preserve of the wild horses (baguales) According to the Argentinian Explorer Carlos Moyano, who visited the area in 1883, the favourite area of the wild horses, ´the gully of the baguales’, was a small valley located behind Sierra Guido. This natural paddock led to a narrowing which allowed for the easy rounding up of the horses. Eventually this valley became the site most often frequented by Indians, cowboys and hunters all arriving with the same purpose; capture animals and with luck, whole packs of horses. The first settlement began in the spring of 1893 when Rodolfo Stubenrach, acting for Hermann Eberhard, solicited land in Ultima Esperanza from the Governor of Magallanes, Captain Manuel Señoret. The Uruguayan Ramón Contreras also established himself (with a verbal authorization from the governor) in the isolated north in the valley of the River Baguales. As a result of the sale of land in 1905 all the estancias established in the previous 12 years in Ultima Esperanza, became part of the ‘Sociedad Explotadora Tierra del Fuego’. This society united the farms together into 4 or 5 very large sheep estancias, forming a powerful empire that dominated southern Patagonia for than half a century.

The first tourist to visit Baguales In 1879, Lady Florence Dixie, was the first ‘tourist’ to come to Patagonia. Before she set off on her trip friends told her: “Patagonia! Who would ever think of going to such a place? What on earth makes you choose such an outlandish part of the world to go to? What can be the attraction?” Her reply “Precisely because it was an outlandish place and so far away, I chose it. Palled for the moment with civilization and its surroundings, I wanted to escape somewhere where I might be as far removed from them as possible”. Her travels led Lady Dixie as far as Baguales, and she describes the area extensively in her famous book “Across Patagonia”. She was impressed by the beauty of the landscape, and by the feeling of being the first person ever to set foot on these mountains “whose peaks are rugged in a most fantastic way, worn and corroded by the wind and humidity, some formations looking similar to delicate gothic spirals”. According to the legends Lady Dixie heard, the Indians did not dare to come near the mysterious peaks of the mountain range, because of an animal looking like a wild man and a thick hairy skin that supposedly lived there.

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10 Daily Rock Climbs in Torres del Paine

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11 Wet & wild in Torres del Paine by Alison McTavish As outdoor recreation becomes increasingly popular, it is evident that there is a need to protect the heavily used, pristine areas such as Torres del Paine. It is essential for each camper to take responsibility for their impact on the environment, leaving as little trace of their presence as possible. This is especially important when considering the park´s water sources. Most of the campsites in the park are conveniently next to a fresh water source. This allows us to collect water for drinking and eating with relative ease. It´s a great luxury to have this pristine water as a resource, so let´s try and keep it clean for future park users to enjoy. A major source of water contamination comes from the improper disposal of human waste and dirty water from cooking and cleaning (also called “grey water.”) Here are some responsible ways to minimize our impact on the water in the park. Following basic backcountry and camping etiquette is easy, even with regard to the disposal of waste and grey water. Lucky for us, all of the campsites at the park have a toilet... So use them! If nature calls in the middle of the night and you don´t want to walk the trail, make sure you´re very far away from a water source. If you need to use toilet paper and

aren’t near a toilet, make sure you take a plastic bag (Ziplock works great!) to put your used toilet paper in. (In short, dig a little hole and cover it up with the dirt once you are finished. Tis´ an unfortunate and nasty discovery to find someone else´s toilet paper poorly covered with a few dried leaves). After all, it´s not so hard to combine it with your other trash, and pack it out to the nearest garbage bin. Avoid the temption to wash your dishes in the lovely, yet raging rivers or streams by the campsites. This is the drinking water for all who use the park. While you are washing your waste away, someone downstream is filling up their water bottle. The best way to deter contamination of the water is to dispose of your grey water 200 feet away from a water source. A good practice is to dig a little hole into the ground, wash and rinse your dishes there, then cover the hole back up. Biodegradable soap is by far the best option for dish soap, but it is also very hard to find in this area. If you are using regular dish soap, please use small amounts because its a major contributor to polluting the water. If we all do our part and dispose of both human waste and grey water responibley, the water users will be able to enjoy the water just as we have. Be responsible; not lazy, and spread the word! Happy and safe trails....

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Chilean Moonshine In Chile, the food is not sophisticated, but it is delicious. There is a wide variety of meats, including lamb, pork, beef, fish, shellfish, and poultry. If you´re lucky enough, you´ll taste guanaco, ñandu, boar, or deer. (A lot of meat... good luck if you are a vegetarian!) But you´ll also find good, strong drinks. The Chileans have a pisco culture. Pisco is like a whiskey made from grapes. They are very keen on making drinks based on pisco and there are many pisco-mixed drinks out there. The first in line is a Pisco Sour. Try different Pisco Sours in different places because they can be made differently. There is also a great Calafate Sour based on the same mix. But you can also make them yourself in your hostel, or even once you get home.

Pisco Sour 3 parts pisco 1 part lemon juice Icing sugar 1 egg white Ice cubes. Blend the pisco and lemon juice. While blending, add powdered sugar to taste, the egg white, and the ice cubes. In a minute, it will be ready to drink. In some families, it is almost a tradition to welcome guests with a toast of pisco sour, so go for it and enjoy!

...muy pronto comprendi que este viaje no seria un repote de senderos y turismo, sino bien una navegación pausada y nómade por esas historias que llameré “El alma de Williams”...

Micalvi, Vida de Marineros

March 2007

Seguramente historias de puertos existen muchas, y sin duda la vida marinera esta hecha de mil aventuras y lugares singulares. Pero que pensarías si te digiera que sobre las aguas más calmas del Canal Beagle, reposa dormido el Micalvi que con orgullo se llama a si mismo el ultimo club de yates del planeta. Como no visitar al curioso y, según relatos de los mismos navegantes, único en el mundo

Club de yates Micalvi. Luego de ser protagonista de la esforzada colonización del Cabo de Hornos, esta noble embarcación duerme sus huesos oxidados al abrigo del seno Lauta y ofrece su lomo como dócil ballena para que hagan puerto los veleros. En su interior, verán sobre sus muros y en su bitácora de tierra el eco de miles de brindis marineros, de camaradería de ultramar y cientos de personajes asombrosos que han hecho puerto en este fin de mundo e incluso a veces se puede ver la sombra de esos pocos marineros que le dicen con sobrio orgullo su hogar.

12 The José Nogueira Hotel: An audacious piece of Punta Arenas history by John Pomietlasz Long before the days of the Panama Canal, Punta Arenas was an international port of whale vessels, steam ships and sloops voyaging oceanic trade routes. It was the final provisioning depot before rounding Cape Horn and navigating the Strait of Magellan; the tumultuous passage that’s claimed more fleets than anywhere else in the world. And what grew from the port’s ideal locale was a small epicenter of wealth, dominated by European immigrants who capitalized upon the white gold of Magellan. The Sara Braun Palace, located on the northwest corner of Muñoz Gamero Square (Plaza de Armas) in the city center, is arguably the supreme testament to the incredible affluence attained during the late nineteenth century. It’s an ostentatious representation of the success Braun and her family enjoyed, essentially, by inventing the local sheep ranching trade. The palace was converted 15 years ago into the exclusive José Nogueira Hotel and Club de la Unión restaurant that quarters and serves the world’s royal and elite. Rivaling the grandeur of Santiago’s opulent, the mansion is a historical and cultural relic of the wool booming lifestyle of fortune. But Punta Arenas wasn’t always a bustling port city touting an expanding economy. Settled on the Brunswick Peninsula, it was originally the home to the Aonikenk, Tehuelches, Selknam and Onas tribes, who Cocina Salvaje de la Patagonia Guanaco Ñandú Centolla Caiquen Castor Krill Cordero 21 de Mayo 1469 Punta Arenas +56-61 241029

roamed the plains as hunters and gatherers for an estimated 10,000 years. Upon its ¨discovery¨ in the mid 1800s, the Englishman J. Byron named it ¨Sandy Point.¨ It was later colonized by the Chilean government in 1848 after transferring the facilities and population from its original rocky, uninhabitable location in the Magellanic Forest. The city grew gradually as a disciplinary posting, or penal colony, where relapsing criminals and relegated military were sent. Too many ill-tempered people roaming the town resulted in a mutiny that sacked public buildings, burned down the church and assassinated Governor Gamero (for whom the main square is presently named after.) The city boasted no substantial development until 1867, when the new governor established a colonizing policy that permitted foreign immigration. In doing so, he also declared Punta Arenas a ¨free port. The new policy brought an influx of foreign immigration seeking new wealth. And in turn, Punta Arenas experienced a growth in commercial endeavors. One of most prominent pioneers was the courageous and entrepreneurial Portuguese man named José Nogueira. Born in Valla Nova de Gaia in 1845 (which is internationally known for its aged port wines,) he became a ship boy at the age of 12, eventually sailing around the world. He arrived in Punta Arenas in 1876 with only knowledge of the open waters and a knack for hunting sea lions. Sheep-raising in the vast Patagonian lands was a novel concept at the end of the 1800s, and the first group of sheep brought to the area was in 1852. However, it wasn’t until 1877 when another Chilean governor brought a group of 300 sheep from the Falkland Islands to Punta Arenas that Nogueira realized the potential for the market. Just three years after the governor´s import, Nogueira bought his first consignment of sheep. His herd was sheered annually, and following the wool’s evaluation and baling, was shipped to Europe where it bolstered stronger prices. In this simple manner, he became the pioneer of the wool production industry. Also during this time, Nogueira met and married a Lithuanian named Sara Braun. Her initial role within the company is uncertain, but following the death of her husband, she is said to have managed the wealth sufficiently. From Nogueira´s first concession of sheep, he was sold on the profiting potential that lay in the wool industry. In 1889 he acquired land in the Tierra del Fuego from the Chilean government measuring 180,000 hectares. One

year later, he successfully lobbied another Tierra del Fuego acquisition: an unheard of 20-year lease of 1,000,000 hectares (over 3,400 square miles) with minor stipulations. This contract also commenced his enterprise, La Sociedad Explotadora del Tierra Del Fuego. Note that explotadora in the company´s name translates in English to ´exploit.´ Although profitable, the following three years were hindered with difficulties like investors´ uncertainty, Argentine and Chilean border disputes and finally, a Chilean civil war. And soon after the company’s inception, he died in 1893, leaving his entire estate to his wife Sara. From then on, Braun

and her brother Mauricio Braun Del Telsen, who worked as a merchant and cattle breeder in Punta Arenas as well, controlled the business to market-commanding success. The brother and sister team wasted little time and immediately began working toward expansion. Within 1893 they attained the necessary backing from Santiago investors, and formally constituted the enterprise as a legal entity. The barren Patagonian lands to the north were considered worthless by most, but La Sociedad sought them extensively for sheep herding. Over the next few years, they developed estancias (small farm-like establishments) that required the construction of a basic infrastructure: roads, fences, barns and a few houses. By 1897 the La Sociedad ran two large estancias, had 72,000 sheep and was claiming substantial profits. With growing success, the company exercised clever business strategies while continuing efforts to expand in land ownership. For example, to avoid uncertainties in fluctuations of exchange rates, it redenominated their entire working capital into sterling Pounds because the majority of their business was done in England. The company also established a primary office in Valparaiso to maintain steady contacts with the financial and political establishments based there. In terms of land expansion, significant investments helped attain a series of land tracts in Chilean public auctions. The company´s economic stronghold on the market grew as they began to buyout competitors and private owners throughout Patagonia. In subsequent purchases from 1901 to 1907, it acquired an estimated total of 1,544,000 hectares throughout Patagonia, Isla Riesco, Ultima Esperanza and Argentina; La Sociedad was the principal ranching company throughout Patagonia. Until the decline of the wool industry in the 1940s, La Sociedad Exploadora controlled over 10,000 square kilometers of Patagonian lands. However, through colonization and profit-grubbing actions of the company, acquisitions of rural Patagonia came with despicable human loss. Thousands of

indigenous people inhabiting the area were constantly displaced and pushed out of their homelands, often to reservations where they ultimately perished. The horrid, profitdriven lifestyles of the immigrant colonials unconscientiously rid the native peoples of their traditional living practices. In fact, they viewed the indigenous communities as ¨intruders¨ and ¨obstacles¨ to their success. The native tribes who lived upon hunting the guanaco began hunting sheep because they were much easier to kill. In turn, colonials claimed it was necessary to ¨protect¨ their herds and outright killed thousands of natives with hired bounty killers. The natives were innocent victims of colonizing foreigners - it´s even rumored that Braun even removed natives´ ears in the basement of her elegant mansion. For the indigenous who weren’t plainly murdered, they rapidly succumbed to pressures of the colonials in reservations; they were unable to adapt to the new lifestyle or died from European diseases. Now La Sociedad Explotadora Del Tierra Del Fuego is held fundamentally responsible for the blatant extinction, moreover, extermination of the native Patagonian tribes. Constructed from the tyrannized wealth of a dowery from the Nogueira estate, the mansion remains an admonishing edifice to Braun´s arrogance and smug. Supposedly commissioned by Nogueira in 1890, construction didn’t begin until 1895, under Braun´s intruction. She hired French architect Numa Mayer to design and build the palace. She spared no expense and had all of the construction materials and ornamental pieces shipped from Europe. The two-story Parisian style mansion’s most notable feature is the metallic façade on the northwest side of the house. It served as a pergola winter garden where plants and vines draped across elaborate trelliswork. The house’s exterior was constructed of masonry brick on a stone foundation and roofed with galvanized iron tiles. Complete with polished wood floors and marble fireplaces, the remainder of the estate was decorated with Tiffany lamps, Flemish tapestries and hand-made European furniture. Completion took ten years, and it was finished in 1905. Now the palace houses the Jose Nogueira Hotel and Club de la Union. It reopened its doors in 1992, following 40 long years of renovation. The process was delicate and extensive, but the house was returned to its original state of brilliance. For the purposes of serving guests, the living spaces were converted into 23 rooms and five suits. And in maintaining the integrity of the mansion’s uniqueness, the structure was adapted without compromising any of its original structure. To this, the hotel asserts that each room has its own personality and characteristics, providing each patron with their own exceptional experience. The winter garden was converted into the dining room, serving an array of international cuisines. The building was also declared a Chilean National Monument in 1981, which prohibits any further modification. Keeping in tune with the fashion of Braun, the hotel caters specifically to the aristocratic and royal; in 2004 it hosted his majesty King of Spain, Juan Carlos de Borbon.


Trail Tips... How much water should I drink? While trekking or climbing, the idea is to drink about three to four quarts a day. But this really depends on where you are and what you are doing. In a hot desert, you´d probably want to double this, but a rest day at camp would obviously require less. A good way to monitor your hydration level is to look at your urine output, -clear and copious is what you are looking for. Bold yellow urine is a sure sign of dehydration, but remember that some vitamins will turn urine bright yellow - that´s different. If you are feeling thirsty, then you are already lacking up to a liter of water, and may have lost up to 20 percent of your endurance. Headaches and/or cramping are also a signs of dehydration. Take the time to drink. Don´t feel pressured by

Triathlon Adventure racing into Natales May 12th marks the adventure triathlon called Aventura Kallpa Mayß, which will take place in the Puerto Natales area. Competitors battle in speed for approximately 30 kilometers individually, or in relay teams of two or three. The races’ adventure disciplines include trail running, mountain biking and kayaking. The first annual race is put on by Kallpa Mayß, Equipe Sussuarana and local Natales community businesses with the support of the Capitanía de Puerto de Puerto Natales and the Chilean Navy. The event also honours the ¨Mes de Mar¨ anniversary. The starter gun sounds at 10am, beginning the race at Laguna Sofia. It continues past the Milodon Cave, and to the gate of CONAF. Arriving in Puerto Prat via a private road, the race finishes on the coast of Puerto Natales. For more information visit: www. Good luck to this year’s participants!

the clock, or the team´s agenda. A clever group will schedule in regular drink breaks together. It´s better to drink small amounts of water over time than to guzzle down a quart in one sitting. This gives your body time to absorb the water, which is why it´s so important to continually drink all day. The Torres del Paine is one of the last great destinations in the world where you CAN drink water fresh from streams and creeks along its trail; although a good water filtration system is always a smart idea while trekking abroad.

Rucksack Report from the Front: New ¨Overland¨ Route, El Chalten to Villa O´Higgins We´ve received the good word from a trusted backpacking scout roaming the wild Patagonian lands. The intelligence indicates new information about an ¨overland¨ route from El Chalten, Argentina, to Villa O´Higgins, Chile the enchanting southern tip of Carretera Austral. Here’s a splendid idea for an alternative trip and how you can do it: If you take a bus from El Chalten to El Lago Del Desierto (its cost is 35 Argentine pesos,) hike 12 hours to catch the ferry crossing, or break up the hike into two days. It’s also possible to take a boat across El Lago Del Desierto, which reduces hiking time to about seven hours. But if you’re hiking inclined, you could also skip the bus entirely, and basically hike the road to the lake. Ferries arrive on Saturdays and Wednesdays and cost 35 US dollars. Our scout also reports that Saturdays are the most reliable option; during the down season (May through October) Wednesday ferries don’t operate. Want To Go deeper? A bus operates every Tuesday from Villa O´Higgins to Cochrane. Enjoy.

March 2007

Off the beaten path in Puerto Natales Dumestre Road

In just a half day of biking, you can have a “so close, but so farâ€? view of Puerto Natales and its surroundings. All you need is a pedaler, a picnic, and your camera! If you follow the road by the sea, going in the exact opposite direction of everyone else (who will all be going to the park), you will pass the main dock. When you get to where all the fishing boats are, you will have to turn down some streets, but always try to keep closest to the sea (if you get lost, just ask anyone how to get to “el camino a Dumestre.â€?) You will reach a dirt road out of town, and as you get farther away from the town, all of the mountains will start to show you how tremendous they really are, and how endless are to the sea. The farther you get, the greater your view of the different mountains. You’ll see the peaks Tenerife, Prat, Chacabuco, Ballena, Cordillera Moore, and even the CaĂ­n Mountains of the beautiful Roca PenĂ­nsula.

On the corner of Magallanes and SeĂąoret ph 56-61-413723

Cheese, wines & bread

EMPORIO de la Pampa

Eberhard 226

Retail, coffee shop,

Chilean wines, homemade brown bread

Puerto Natales Patagonia Chile

and locally produced gourmet cheese.


Comfortable rooms, Continental breakfast, private bathrooms, 24-hour reception, cable tv, multilingual, telephone

Hostal Francis Drake Phone & Fax +56-61 411553 Phillipi 383 Pto Natales, Chile CHEZ MOI... CHEZ VOUS...

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Mejicana 1174

Punta Arenas, Patagonia, Chile

Mejicana 1174 Punta Arenas .FKJDBOB1VOUB"SFOBT 1BUBHPOJB $IJMF Patagonia, Chile 'POPDFM fono 227678 / cel. 09-94246903 XXXMPEHJOHNFKJDBOBNDPN

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14 The municipality and the Puerto Williams Tourism Association welcome you to Puerto Williams, Isla Navarino, Chile

Beagle Channel

Beyond the end of the world...

Puerto Williams, Chile

Restaurantes/Restaurants Albatros Restaurante Café Agelus Club naval de yates Micalvi Cabo de Hornos Camblor Dientes de Navarino Patagonia

621317 621080 621042 621067 621033-621384 621074 621267-621075

Piloto Pardo 228 Centro comercial norte 151 Seno Lauta Costanera s/n Ricardo Maragaño 146 Patricio Capedeville 41 Centro comercial Sur 14 Yelcho 230

Agencias de turismo/Tourist agencies Turismo Akainij 621327-621173 Turismo aventura Shila 621366 Forjadores del Cab. de Hornos 621140-621359 Turismo SIM 621150- 621225 Agencia Native tours 621183 Agencia Victory Cruises 621010-621092 Desierto Blanco 621452

Centro comercial Sur 156 O´Higgins 322 Uspashun 64 Ricardo Maragaño 168 Centro Comercial Sur 154b Teniente Muñoz 118 Costanera 330

Café Internet/Cyber Café Cape Horn Net cyber café Turismo Akainij

Teniente Muñoz 118 Centro comercial Sur 156

Tiendas de Souvenier/Giftshops 55°Sur 621265 Isla hornos souvenier 621734 Kipa Akar Artesanias

Centro comercial norte 147 Centro comercial sur 140b Villa Ukika

Servicio de guias/guide services Fuegia&CO 621251 Alapainch, guia de trekking 621048

Yelcho 232 Yelcho 218

Transporte/Transports Servicio de taxi Servicios maritimos y turisticos Aerovias DAP Ushuaia boating Lancha peregrino austral Lancha Dep. Ultramar agencia maritima

621387 621015 621114-621051 54 2901 436193 621015 621294-621075 621049

Mario Leal 145 Costanera 436 Centro comercial sur 151 Gob.Godoy 190-Ususahia Costanera 436 Yelcho 230 Arturo Prat 35

Other services Cabalgatas el padrino Museo Martin Gusinde Sabores del Beagle Yiakua, lavanderia

621136 621043 621136 621358

Costanera 262 Com.Aragay 1 esq.Gusinde costanera s/n Piloto Pardo342z

621010-621092 621327-621173

Listado elaborado por ENVIU

For information contact: Av. B. O’Higgins 189 - Phone 621011 - 621013

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How do I get to Puerto Williams? To get to Isla Navarino/Puerto Williams you have three main choices: The first is the slightly uncomfortable but adventurous ferry that takes 36 hours from Punta Arenas. The second is the twin otter that flies across the Darwin ranges and takes one hour and 15 minutes. The third is to go via Ushuaia and cross the Beagle Channel by zodiac. The choice is yours. Where is the downtown of Pto Williams? It is strange to think that such a small place seems to have two centers. One is the centro commercial where you will find the post and DAP office. The other is the supermarkets, which are found facing each other along the road Piloto Pardo. Where can I sleep? There are actually quite few places to stay; some cheaper than others. There is a luxury hotel which is pretty expensive, and then there is a range of hostels and residenciales around town. Are there any internet cafés on Isla Navarino? Yes! But the connection is not so good. The two cyber cafés are at the Akainij travel agency in the centro comercial, and the other is up the hill and is called Cape Horn Net Cyber Café. Can I rent equipment on Isla Navarino? Turismo Shila in the centro comercial provides a range of camping equipment. Another possibility is to take a guide who provides the equipment. Where can I find camping gas? Turismo Shila as well as some hostels sell camping gas. What can I find to do in downtown Pto. Williams? Well….you´ll just have to go and find out. How old is this town? The town was established in 1953 as a naval base. Why is the town there? Geopolitics. Can I drink the water on Isla Navarino? Yes you can, but be careful while drinking the water around beaver dams. Are there any animals I need to worry about on Navarino? Not really, but sometimes the dogs are an annoyance. Do I have to pay anything to trek on the Dientes? Nope, it’s free! Where do I start my trek? At Pilot Pardo Street - next to the cops. You have to leave info about your itinerary and return date. From there, you can head to either one of the two trailheads.

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Puerto Williams & Isla Navarino Tourist Directory Hostales/Hostels Fono/Phone Direccion/Address Mail address Akainij 621173 Austral 22 Cabo de Hornos 621067 Ricardo Maragaño 146 Camblor 621033-621384 Patricio Capedeville 41 Coirón 621227-621227 Ricardo Maragaño 168 Forjadores del Cab. de Hornos 621140-621359 Uspashun 64 Lajuwa 621267 Villa Ukika Patagonia 621075 Yelcho 230 Pusaki 621116-621224 Piloto Pardo 222 Yagan 621118-621334 Piloto Pardo 260 Hospedaje Akainij 621173-621173 Austral 22 Hotel Lakutaia 621733-621298 Seno Lauta s/n Refugio El Padrino 621136 Costanera 276




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How do I get to Ushuaia from here? Ushuaia is NORTH (as in not south) from Williams. There is a zodiac which has regular crossings from Isla Navarino to Ushuaia. It’s fairly pricey, but still a good option if you don’t want to backtrack. Information for this can be found at Café Angelus at the centro comercial. Where can I find a Dientes map? Ooooohh... That’s a tough one. There are trekking guides available at the tourism agencies. As there are only a few printed, they usually ask you to photocopy them. Why are half of the buildings white in Pto. Williams? The white buildings are the Armada (Navy) buildings, which house their offices and families. Is there a money machine in Williams? Yep, and it’s 24 hours as well, located at the Banco de Chile. Can I rent a car in Pto. Williams? No. What time do the stores open? Usually between 10:00 and 13:00, and then from 16:00/17:00 to 20:00. The supermarkets are open from 9:00 in the morning to midnight. How many people visit Williams in a season? Well, in a year there are about 8,000 visitors to the island. Of this, about 6000 are cruiseship passengers, and 2000 are overnight tourists that usually go trekking. How big is Isla Navarino? 40 by 100 kilometers. Why does everyone say that Ushuaia is the southernmost city in the world? This is a false rumor that has been circulating for years to draw people to Ushuaia. Some say there are differences between a city and a town, but whichever - there is no place to live further south than Puerto Willliams. How far is Cape Horn? It’s about 165 kilometers south of Puerto Williams. Can I get to Cape Horn or Antarctica from Puerto Williams? Yes you can, but it will cost ya. Several yachts leave Puerto Williams to these destinations during the summer season. Are there any other towns on Isla Navarino? Yes, but they are even smaller. Puerto Toro is truly the southernmost town in the world and is only reached by boat. Puerto Navarino is basically two families big and then there are some farms around. What is the population of Puerto Williams? 2,262.


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Trail Tips... Fuel Efficiency While trying to pack light, taking your fuel into consideration helps. Bringing more fuel then you really need just means more weight to carry. On the other side of the coin, not enough fuel can cause problems. Here are a few ideas to make the most of your fuel. 1. Don´t over boil your water, it can only get so hot. Leaving the water boiling after its first moment is a waste. Lighting the stove before you are ready to start a boil is also only heating the fresh air. 2. Use a lid on your pot. It holds the heat in and makes for a faster boil. 3. Use a wind screen. Wind will carry your heat from under your pot and redirect it from your food. Using a wind shield will aim the heat up and under your pot. If you don´t have an aluminum wind screen, rocks from your campsite will also help protect your heat. 4. Many outdoor manufactures (such as MSR) now make heat exchangers that fit around your pot as an insulation. Between this and a wind screen, you can cook in almost any conditions.

Piloto Pardo 222 phone 621116-621224

torres del paine tested in patagonia

New clothing from the heart of Patagonia Baquedano 622 Pto Natales, Chile +56-61 614310


Finding tourist information on Chile’s most Southern town, Puerto Williams, is not an easy job. Especially information on the Internet. This is a pity since Puerto Williams and its surroundings have much to offer for nature loving tourists. Enviu, a Chilean and Dutch N.G.O., is currently working on improving the information supply. Through a project directed towards the local entrepreneurs in the tourism sector, Enviu has facilitated the creation of various websites. During a twomonth period Enviu carried out practical workshops in which the entrepreneurs learned how to make and maintain a website. The result of this project is that recently, in addition to the websites that existed, four new websites were put online. For additional information, please check out the new websites and learn more about the various tourism products that Puerto Williams has to offer: - guiding & tours - accomodation - accomodation - food

Hostel Pusaki

by Marieke den Nijs




March 2007

son seguramente los peces mas cuidados del mundo! Louve doma las islas salvajes, las bahías desconocidas, los escollos rodeados de kelp. Cada noche se exclama: -“¡Llegamos a mi caleta Papa!” La niña de cuatro años, valiente hija de sus padres, nos ayuda para bajar el ancla y siempre viene conmigo a tierra para atar las cuerdas en los árboles. Los yates que cruzamos en la caleta Brecknock nos lanzan miradas dubitativas. Elric abre ojos cada día más grandes. Con sus 18 meses habrá vivido y sentido el viento que infla las velas, los albatros planeando al lado del Morgane, los delfines que nos siguen. Habrá conocido las fuertes lluvias del sur, los granizos y los temporales. Sus ojos alucinados exploran los glaciares del canal suroeste, las manos apuntan las cascadas, los pies tropiezan en las rocas del rió. El pequeño indio se despertó. El esplendor y la fuerza de los paisajes del sur transmiten una energía increíble. En el Estrecho de Magallanes, después de varios días de lluvia, disfrutamos de medio día de sol. El granito resplandece, los bosques se animan, el mar cambia de color. Pronto estamos todos en la cubierta, lavándonos con baldes de agua. ¡Estos momentos son invalorables cuando el verano tarda en aparecer! El canal Suroeste nos regala sus maravillosos glaciares que bajan hacia las aguas heladas del mar. Estamos solos en la caleta Juana: el ventisquero, las cascadas de hielo, las caídas de agua y los bosques enanos nos acogen. Por la noche salimos en el bote hacia el glaciar. Llegamos al pie de los gigantes bloques azules. El frío es intenso, el hielo no se mueve, el silencio está total. Louve anda a buscar un helado. Con Valerie rompemos unos pedazos y llenamos nuestros bolsillos. ¡La cachaça será aun mejor con hielo milenario! Durante tres semanas navegamos como los antiguos nómadas del mar. Sin escala de Puerto Natales a Puerto Williams, la libertad y el silencio de los canales nos invadieron. Descubrir la Patagonia del mar y el laberinto de Tierra de Fuego puede transformar a los hombres. Lejos de las necesidades superficiales que nos dominan a tierra volvimos a concentrarnos en cosas más básicas, más fundamentales: el viento, el mar, el agua dulce, los peces. Las inmensidades vírgenes y aparentemente desérticas nos llenaron de vida. La lluvia y los fuertes vientos son los atributos de esta tierra. La protegen, alejando el turismo de masa de los canales. Estas tierras libres pertenecen a los que las enfrentan y las exploran.


-“¡Ballenas, ballenas!” La cara iluminada de Elric aparece en la puerta. Gilles le agarra y pronto estamos todos gritando hacia el potente soplo de los animales. Estamos navegando cerca de la isla Carlos III y llevamos dos días viendo ballenas. Louve salta sobre el bote. “ La cola, la cola, he visto la cola!” Al llegar a la caleta descubrimos que una pequeña ballena está pescando en la entrada. El sol desaparece poco a poco en el Estrecho de Magallanes, la Cordillera de Darwin se dibuja a lo lejos y la ballena juega tranquilamente cerca del yate. El viento ya no sopla sobre los escasos bosques. El silencio y la potencia de la naturaleza del sur me invaden. Quiero quedarme acá. Los dioses de patagonia son atentos; levantaron rachas de 70 nudos durante dos días... y tuvimos que quedarnos. Navegar a vela en los canales es una experiencia fantástica. El viento se comporta de forma anárquica al jugar con las montañas, los esteros y los fiordos. Pasamos de días sin viento a tremendos temporales. La presencia casi permanente de focas y de pájaros contrasta con la austeridad austral de las islas rocosas. Desde lejos las tierras parecen inhóspitas y salvajes pero cuando uno se acerca, descubre caletas y piscinas acogedoras. Bautizamos los islotes y los esteros inexplorados. Caminamos hacia lagos perdidos y tratamos de caminar en los bosques frondosos. Los días de inmovilidad son tal vez los más divertidos del viaje. La falta de espacio y el mal tiempo crean una atmósfera única. Los niños saltan en un balde de agua caliente, hacemos pan, cocinamos, leemos, dormimos mucho, y claro, tomamos un poco. Las bromas deflagran y muchas veces acabamos muertos de risa, mientras el temporal sacude el velero y tensa las sogas. A veces otro yate o una lancha de pescadores artesanales se fondean en la misma caleta. Victimas de los mismos poderosos elementos compartimos centollas, vinos y experiencias. Gilles nunca se cansa de contar sus aventuras: -“¡Allí los pescadores andaban con dinamita! De repente a un ayudante se le cayó un balde de agua y se mojó toda la caja de explosivos. Un rato más tarde escuchamos gritos: ¡el cabrón había colocado la dinamita en el horno para secarla! No te cuento la patada que le pegó su jefe cuando so dio cuenta…tenemos unas profesiones peligrosas a veces…” Cuando aparece el sol exploramos las maravillas que nos rodean. Louve camina en la turba y quiere llegar “arriba de la montaña”. Lleva consigo sus peces. Al alcanzar la cumbre les muestra el paisaje. ¡Aunque estén muy muertos

New Williams Info

Puerto Williams, Isla Navarino

Hand Crafts

Nómades del mar by Marion Labatut




Carlos Bories 278 Puerto Natales, Chile phone 8 4649562


Coffee, Tea or Mate? by Hermann Klasen



In Patagonia, the mate tradition is more than just an excuse to enjoy a hot infusion of herbs. Sitting around the teapot or the fire to prepare and drink mate is a friendly act, which has survived for centuries to become one of the most recognized customs of the Patagonian people. The first records of the use of mate date back to the 17th century. In his book “Short History of the Spanish Conquest,¨ Spaniard Ruíz Díaz de Guzmán describes how the Indians carried small leather pouches containing a grinder and toasted mate herbs. Back then, they chewed or mixed the herbs with water in a calabash and drank using their teeth as a filter. The Spanish conquerors believed that mate leaves gave natives a “special force,” improving performance of their daily activities. The rest is history... Now in most countries of South America, and especially in Patagonia, you can

Barros Arana 233, Puerto Natales Patagonia, Chile Phone / Fax 56•61•415285


Handmade Chocolate Gourmet Espresso Real Hot Chocolate

Eberhard 301 Puerto Natales, Chile ph. 414382 - 415660 - 413360 Cerro Castillo ph. 691932 - 413063 ANEXO 122

Books & Maps Postcards & Stamps Souvenirs

ÑANDÚ Hand Crafts

find yerba mate in almost every warehouse and supermarket. But it´s one thing to buy it, and another to drink it correctly. In Patagonia, preparing a good mate is considered an art, so don’t expect to get it right the first time. Here are the principles of mate: Fill your pot 2/3 full of mate herb, taking care that the thinner powder stays in the surface, and the big leaves and sticks stay at the bottom. Move all the content to one side of the mate pot. Gently pour small amounts of warm water – never boiling. Be careful that the liquid doesn’t impact yerba with force. Allow a moment for the yerba to absorb the water. Place the straw (or bombilla) in the area of the mate pot that stays free of herb. Only now is it ready for slowly sipping. Keep adding small amounts of water when necessary. If you prefer sweet mate, add one teaspoon of sugar in the side where the bombilla is. Never mix it with the rest of the herb. And now the language of mate: Because the people who work in Patagonian estancias are accustomed to long periods of

solitude whilst tending to their animals, they are often people of few words. Over time, they have created a type of secret language, which communicates through the sensations of different flavored mate produce. Sweet: friendship, you are welcome; cinnamon: I am interested in you; lemon: I don’t want to see you; brown sugar: I’m thinking of you; milk: friends with a lot of respect; coffee: I forgive your fault; blocked mate: don’t come back; very hot: I love you, I’m waiting for your words; foamy: mutual love; honey: marriage; cedron: I agree. If you are lucky enough to make contact with the baqueanos at an estancia or a puesto, you can be sure that they will invite you with a mate or coffee. If it’s coffee, you can assume that you are not very welcome. Drink it fast, and say goodbye. On the other hand, if you are invited with a mate, get ready for intriguing conversation full of the magic and unique histories from the people of the end of the world.

“Carménère?..” - Chilean Wine Guide Un Carmènére chileno…un tesoro escondido ….Rojo, burdeo intenso, casi violeta. Un toque de madera con tonos a chocolate, café recién tostado, quizás con algo de humo, notas cálidas de mora, cassis , un sabor casi aterciopelado….Mmm…. una delicia en boca. Hablar de Carménère hoy en día es sin duda hablar de la cepa del momento, su historia es increíble y se conoce en todos los círculos que rodean al mundo del vino chileno. De ella podemos decir que es una cepa tinta originaria de Burdeos (Francia). Legendaria y fina variedad que fue atacada por la filoxera (plaga propagada por un insecto que se alimenta de las raíces de la vid), con tanta fuerza que llegara a extinguirla en Francia e Italia en el año 1850. Con anterioridad al desastre fue traída a Chile por los grandes viticultores de la época y conservada desde entonces, pero por un error de clasificación habría sido confundida por la cepa merlot hasta el año 1994. Al darse cuenta de este desacierto el ampelógrafo francés (la Ampelografía es la ciencia que describe e identifica las variedades del vino) Jean Michell Boursiquot, y ver que correspondía a una antigua cepa que estaba desaparecida en el resto del mundo descubrió con asombro y….….... ¡¡ había reaparecido la cepa Carménere¡¡¡¡ . Como bien sabemos algunos viñateros arriesgados se aventuraron a presentarla como un nuevo cepaje, significa que por primera vez Chile podría tener una cepa propia que lo distinguiera en la vitivinicultura mundial. Aunque lo mencionamos al comienzo, conozcamos algunas de sus características: su color es rojo violáceo, muy llamativo y profundo. Tiene un notable aroma donde encontramos notas de frutas rojas, tierra húmeda y especias. Sus taninos son más suaves y amigables que un cavernet sauvignon por lo que resulta una buena opción para los que gusten de un vino algo más manso. En cuanto a la recomendación del servicio, es correcto si tiene algo de guarda para acompañar pastas, platos de consistencia media y condimentación más bien baja como cordero sin salsas, pulpa de cerdo, guisos de verdura, y quesos cremosos con algo de condimento. Si lo servimos frio incluso queda bien con salmón, corvina o atún. Temperatura ideal 14 y 15ªC. Aunque podemos decir que aun estamos aprendiendo sobre esta cepa, su producción se concentra mayoritariamente en los Valles

de Rapel y Maule, creciendo de 95 hect. en 1995 a 4.719 hcts hoy en día. Y para terminar, hoy como chilenos tenemos el orgullo de poder decir que somos prácticamente los únicos productores de vinos provenientes de esta cepa por lo que se debiera transformar en la bandera tinta de la producción de vinos en Chile y nuestra carta de presentación en los mercados internacionales, especialmente en aquellos que están deseosos de conocer y probar cosas nuevas. Por esta singular característica de que Chile es el único país en producirla y que proviene de plantas del periodo pre-filoxera solo tenemos un nuevo desafío…”el de probarla” Salud…

Recomendados por: Emporio de la Pampa Cheese & Wines Baron Philippe de Rothschild Casa Silva Maipo Los Lingues Reserva Gran Reserva Carmenere 2004 Carmenere 2004 Casa Silva Lolol Reserva Carmenere 2004 Concha y Toro Terrunyo Carmenere 2003 Casa Silva Doña Dominga Reserva Carmenere 2004 VOE Adobe (Vino Orgánico) Reserva Carmenere 2004 Gentileza: Emporio de la Pampa Eberhard 226 Puerto Natales


Über-hip hotel hits Puerto Natales The growth in Patagonia and Puerto Natales´ popularity internationally is transforming the bottom of the Earth into a major destination for travelers of every kind. In accomadating this growth, Natales welcomes this season, the newest destination in its hotel evolution – The Indigo Hotel. Located on the beautiful Puerto Natales waterfront, the hotel revives the weariest of travelers with the freshest air and views. They offer everything you would expect from a highend establishment; exquisite food, immaculate rooms and the finest service. But these are just a few reasons to make Indigo a destination. The hotel has a style and flavor that is reinventing modern hotel design. With a mix of powerful architectual forms designed by Sebastian Irarrazavar, and a uniquely conceived decor, Indigo has positioned itself on the forefront of trendsetting hotel construction. Owned and operated by Olivier and Ana Potart and Hernan Jofré, the hotel has 29 rooms, a restaurant, lounge and full spa. It also remains open all year to serve the Patagonian winter travelers. Aside from the amenities, the hotel boasts the best views in town. From the waterfront rooms and rooftop spa, the lookout over the sound and mountainous horizon is unrivaled. Patrons can inhale the envigorating Patagonian air while soaking up the seascape and thermal waters. Indigo has successfully blended the ultra-hip of classy citylife with the weathered, rustic and remote feelings of Patagonia. The energy that welcomes you upon entering is genuine and comfortable. Whether you skip around the world from posh spa to hotel, or you´re splurging to experience something extra while in Patagonia, the Indigo has established itself as a place you shouldn’t miss.

Trail Tips...

Fat. Fat and grease. We love it. Even if you don’t think you love it, you actually do. Whether you are a vegetarian or not, we all crave foods that hold some kind of fat; the grease on meat, the oils on potato chips, the whole cream in ice cream. We not only like it, we need it. We need it for energy while trekking. A couple of facts: 1) Soaps are a threat to fresh water supplies. It´s best not to use these products at all. 2) Cold stream or lake water turns left over greases on dishes into a thick, lard-like glue (impossible to remove without soap & water)... or is it? Here’s the trick: take your dirty dinner dishes to an area of sand or small rocks, grab a fist-full of dirt, and scrub! The small granuals of dirt and pebbles will absorb all the oils from your meal and will remove almost any difficult foods. Even burnt dinner pots clean up quickly with gravel! Your pots and dishes are left with nothing more than a clean coat of dust that is easily rinsed with only a small amount of water - soap free!

Hotel • Restaurant • Cafeteria • Hand Crafts • Massage Travel Agency & The best pisco sour in town! Phone +56 61 412239 Bulnes 299 Pto.Natales

Shrines of the times - La Difunta Correa

March 2007


ad #1 e oic Ch


by Thomas S. Daly

Either entering or leaving Puerto Natales, you can’t help but notice a vast collection of various sized water bottles neatly stacked on the road side. No, it’s not a bottle bank minus the bank; it’s a shrine where locals pay homage to one of their many folk-saints - La Difunta Correa. In South America there are many such `Santos Populares,´ to whom people in need pray for everything from forgiveness to winning the lottery. These folk-saints are non-Canonised Saints, and the devotion to them is completely frowned upon by the Catholic Church. With complete ignorance to this fact, the locals believe that the commonality of the Saints holds them spiritually closer, and therefore they are more prone to helping their `own´. The fabled story goes like this. During the Argentine civil wars of the mid-nineteenth century, a militant leader namd Facundo Quiroga (also know as the Tiger) was enlisting every able-bodied person in the province of San Juan to fight his cause. In 1835 he force enlisted a South American Spaniard by the name of Bustos and, along with many others, lead him off to war. His devoted and distressed wife Maria Antonia Deolinda Correa also followed her husband through the desert, accompanied by their newborn son. After eight days, Maria was thirsty, exhausted and in need of help. She climbed

Washing with Dirt

to the top of a hillock to better her view. Unfortunately, she found nothing, fell, drew her last breath and passed away. After a few days her body was found by some cattle drivers. Miraculously the baby boy was still alive and suckling on her breast. Around her neck was a necklace which read ‘Correa’. After the people buried her body, they carved the name difunta Correa (dead Correa) on a nearby Carob tree. The Difunta Correa (also recognized in Chile) is one of the most prominent of the many Argentine folk-saints. Her main shrine is in Vallecito, San Juan, Argentina, and is a large affair housing several chapels and devotional sites. Beyond this, it has a Catholic church, a museum, restaurants, gift arcades, picnic areas and a hotel. Before proceeding on a long journey, an offering of a bottle of water is made to the Difunta Correa along with prayers. This gesture ensure the traveler with a safe and happy journey. Today, the Difunta Correa has a rival for the number one spot; a bandit by the name of Gaucho Gill (Antonio Gill) has shrines popping up everywhere. These shrines pay homage to a Robin Hood-like bandit crossed with James Bond. They are noticeabley marked with blood-red flags and may display the name ´Gaucho´ or ‘Gaucho Gill.´


Feeling Dirt y...? The Milodon Laundry Service

Dropped before noon for same day return Open 10am-12pm & 2:30pm-8:00pm Phone 413466 • Baquedano 642

Isla Morena

Twin Rooms Double Rooms Library Restaurant

Tomás Rogers 38 - Puerto Natales, Chile - (56-61) 414773


...with all private bathrooms

M.Balmaceda 722 • 412889

18 Big Rock Festival Aiming High in Puerto Natales 2nd Annual Big Rock Festival Coming April 12, 13, 14, 2007 Puerto Natales, Patagonia, Chile

The second annual Big Rock Festival returns to

organizer. ¨This year will feature even more fun with all

Puerto Natales, Chile, on the 12th through 14th of April

kinds of new activities planned.¨ Expanded into a three-day

with more events planned, and two more days of excite-

weekend, the activities are scheduled with a mix of open-

ment. Sponsored by Erratic Rock, Baguales Beer and the

to-all outdoor amusement and more live music playing in

Black Sheep, this season´s festival also includes a grass-

venues throughout Puerto Natales.

roots group of local community businesses supporting the

free event. The organizers of the festival hope to solidify the

pate in the lively event. Big Rock organizers are now work-

event as an annual Patagonian attraction, drawing locals as

ing with local companies to finalize event planning and ac-

well as international visitors.

tivities for this year´s festival. Please contact the

Black Sheep for further details or questions. Ph.

The Big Rock Festival´s evolution from its in-

augural season is apparent, but mainstays are emerging as well. One talked-about highlight was the adventure relay race; groups of three-person teams bouted in friendly sport in categories of kayaking, biking and running. Another was three live bands jamming the evening´s entertainment at Rupertos Bar; an all night party that wasn´t to be missed.

“The entire event was put together rather quickly

last year, but turned out a great success,¨ says one event

Everyone and anyone is encouraged to partici-



The Bicycle.

Cuidado Caminando Sidewalk construction around Puerto Natales

Freewheeling Patagonia. Local Bike Rental Directory

Punta Arenas

Puerto Natales

Backpackers Paradise

Patagonia Adventure Phone 56-61-415636 Tomas Rogers 179 Rental and tours

Phone 56-61-226239 Ignacio Carrera Pinto 1022

Turismo Viento Sur Phone 56-61-710840 Fagnano 585

Path@gone Phone 56-61-413291 Eberhard 595

Turismo Ruta Club Phone 56-61-223371 Ignacio Carrera Pinto 1142

Indian Adventure Phone 56-61-415753 Bulnes 469 Rental and tours

While walking along Calle Baquedano, keep an extra eye out for uneven curbs, random pot holes and wet cement (unless you want to leave your mark). The local Puerto Natales public service department is busy in the process constructing new sidewalks between the Bulnes and Miraflores blocks. The job began at the beginning of this summer, and is dated for completion at the end of this season. The department’s decision to build new sidewalks was part of a city-wide task to update and ¨spruce-up¨ the high-traffic commercial areas of town. One aspect of the sidewalk plan is to accommodate bicyclists who often avoid the street due to its one-way flow of buses and cars. The crews are also employing a decorative finishing technique whilst pouring the cement to leave an attractive and stylistic cure. When finished, it will have a tiled appearance. Citizens are happy with the tedious development, noting the probability that their shoes will stay cleaner and longer with the absence of the old dirt path. Affected area businesses have stated that the construction has had no economic impact, negative or positive. See the progress in action and take a walk down Baquedano during normal business hours, but not during siesta; everyone is napping then.

Bike Service Phone 56-61-242107 Sarmiento 1132

Puerto Williams Turismo Aventura Shila

World´s End - Patagoniax Phone 56-61-414725 Blanco Encalada 226


& Dri

F ri e n

Hotel Posada Tres Pasos Your country hotel...

nk s

e r o o T Phone 56-61-621366 O’Higgins 322

RestoBar Downtown Punta Arenas Magallanes 619

 Tel:(56) (2) 1969630 Km.38 norte, Comuna Torres del Payne Patagonia Chile March 2007

Call 221982

The penguin connection.

Eberhard 169 Puerto Natales, Chile


Like you were never there Leave No Trace is a program developed by the US Forest Service, the National Outdoors Leadership School (NOLS) and The Bureau of Land Management. It is designed to educate people on how to minimize their impact on the environment while camping. This is an abbreviated version of the seven principles. For more information please visit 1. Plan Ahead and Prepare Know the regulations and special concerns for the area you’ll visit. Prepare for extreme weather, hazards and emergencies. Schedule your trip to avoid times of high use. Visit in small groups. Split larger parties into groups of four to six. Repackage food to minimize waste. Use a map and compass to eliminate use of rock cairns, flagging or marking paint.

2. Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces

toilet paper and hygiene products.

Durable surfaces include established trails and campsites, rock, gravel, dry grasses or snow. Protect pristine areas by camping at least 200 feet away from lakes and streams. Good campsites are found, not made. Altering a site is not necessary.

To wash yourself or your dishes, carry water 200 feet away from streams or lakes and use small amounts of biodegradable soap. Scatter strained dishwater.

In popular areas: Walk single file in the middle of the trail, even when wet or muddy. Keep campsites small. Focus activity in areas where vegetation is absent. In pristine areas: Disperse use to prevent the creation of campsites and trails. Avoid places where impacts are just beginning.

wood and coals to ash, put out campfires completely, then scatter cool ashes. 6. Respect Wildlife Do not follow or approach wildlife; observe from a distance.

4. Leave What you Find Preserve the past. Observe, but do not touch cultural or historic structures and artifacts. Leave rocks, plants and other natural objects as you find them. Avoid introducing or transporting non-native species. Do not build structures, furniture, or dig trenches.

Never feed animals. Feeding wildlife damages their health, alters natural behaviours, and exposes them to predators and other dangers. Protect wildlife and your food by storing rations and trash securely. Control pets at all times, or leave them at home. Avoid wildlife during sensitive times i.e. mating, nesting, raising young, or winter.

3. Dispose of Waste Properly

5. Minimize Campfire Impacts

7. Be Considerate of Other Visitors

Pack it in, pack it out. Inspect your campsite and rest areas for trash or spilled foods. Pack out all trash, leftover food, and litter. Deposit solid human waste in catholes dug six to eight inches deep at least 200 feet from water, camp and trails. Cover and disguise the cathole when finished. Pack out

Campfires can cause lasting impacts to the back country. Use a lightweight stove for cooking and enjoy a candle lantern for light. Where fires are permitted, use established fire rings, fire pans or mound fires. Keep fires small. Only use sticks from the ground that can be broken by hand. Burn all

Respect other visitors and protect the quality of their experience. Be courteous, yield to other users on the trail. Step to the downhill side of the trail when encountering pack stock. Take breaks away from trails and other visitors. Let nature’s sounds prevail. Avoid loud voices and noises.

photo Janis Kang

relaxation specialists... Relaxation Therapies O u t d o o r Tu b s Massages Natur al Bar Outdoor Center Eb er hard 161 - Puer to Natales, Chile +56-61 412749

patagonia is open.

guide service • rental • phone + 56 - 61 410355


backpackers hostel • couples hostel • information •

Black Sheep March 07  
Black Sheep March 07  

Patagonia Travel newspaper