Hotels Restaurants CafĂŠs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
ST. petersburg August - September 2013
Summer in New Holland The famous island in the centre of the city
The best bars and restaurants
August - September 2013 No90 st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
Vasilievsky Island and more
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
A word from our editor
Some useful information
Culture and Events 8 Concerts, exhibitions, classical music and sport Features Rubinshteina street Raketa watch factory
A fine selection of places to spend the night
What to buy and where
Whatâ€™s new in the city
Basics and Language
Nightlife 33 Bars, pubs and clubs â€“ how to stay out till 6 am
Expat and Lifestyle 48 Expat Experience, Religious Services and more Getting around Transport, tickets and more 51 Maps 52
Russia Moscow Veliky Novgorod and Staraya Russa Samara Yaroslavl Sochi Kazan
56 57 59 62 63 64 66
August - September 2013
Foreword Some of you may be aware that TripAdvisor, the world’s largest travel site, recently announced the Top 25 travel destinations and St. Petersburg has made it into the rankings for the first time ever, being named the 20th most desirable tourist destination in the world. And that is not all! The State Hermitage was named the best museum in the world (TripAdvisor Traveller’s Choice 2013). These incredible results are based on millions of valuable traveller reviews and opinions. Fantastic, isn’t it? Well, we never doubted it! And now, you can be absolutely sure you made the right choice to visit the Northern Capital. St. Petersburg has undergone a radical transformation in recent years: gastronomy, street life, cultural events, planning and design have changed the city. And it is still changing: every day, new places are being opened, world famous musicians come to perform here, young locals present their innovative ideas for urban developing, and more. St. Petersburg is becoming a place where people want to stay, or at least a place where people want to return to, attracting more foreign visitors each year than any other city in Russia. The city is open 24/7, so enjoy it! The guide you are holding in your hands will give you the best information on everything you need to know about St. Petersburg. It will help you to understand the city, and to feel it. This edition of St. Petersburg In Your Pocket is our 90th issue, and we are very proud that we have come so far. It’s such a good feeling to be able to share our experiences with our readers, and make them happy, by advising a good hotel, restaurant, art exhibition or music event. We would like to thank you all for your support; our readers and clients are the best of the best, and always trust in us. Ksenia Elzes, Editor St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Cover story The four bright pictures you see on our cover were taken on New Holland this summer. The Summer in New Holland festival transforms the area into an outdoor park, with lots of events in the spheres of art, culture, sports, urbanism, education, and food. In 2011 and 2012, the Summer in New Holland festival attracted more than 350,000 visitors to the park. See more on page 5. Photo by Egor Rogalev for New Holland.
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S St. Petersburg In Your Pocket founded and published by OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket. Russia, 196084 St. Petersburg, Ul. Tsvetochnaya 25A, tel: +7 (812) 448 88 65, fax: +7 (812) 448 88 64, firstname.lastname@example.org russia.inyourpocket.com Publisher Bonnie van der Velde, email@example.com General director Tanya Skvortsova, firstname.lastname@example.org Director Sales & Strategy Jerke Verschoor, email@example.com © OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket Published 6 times per year with supplements, No90, 01.08.2013, 90.000 copies © Maps: J.J. van der Molen, www.jobvandermolen.nl For children aged 16 years and over.
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Europe In Your Pocket Northern Ireland
Latvia Lithuania Belarus
Poland Netherlands Germany Belgium Czech Republic Switzerland
Romania Slovenia Croatia Italy Bosnia Serbia Bulgaria Montenegro Kosovo Albania
Helping is Easy
The Best Travel Website
The St. Petersburg Charity AdVita has revived the once popular Russia idea of charitable gifts. AdVita has been helping cancer patients fund their hospital treatments, as well as assisting hospital oncology departments, for eleven years. ‘Helping is Easy!’ is a project selling souvenirs drawn by sick children, with all proceeds going towards their treatment. In 2011 the fund set up a centre which is also called ‘Helping is Easy!’, a place where you can watch a film, listen to a lecture from a famous writer, participate in a master class, buy a souvenir, and make a donation. Souvenirs with the drawings on include postcards, magnets calendars, notepads, badges, cups, bags, and T-shirts, and are also sold in the ‘House of Books’ on Nevsky Prospekt and the ‘Bookvoed’ bookshops. These children find hope through art and we think it is just beautiful. www.advita.ru
On 7th June, the British newspaper The Independent released a list of the top 50 best travel websites, as chosen by four experts in the field of travel, and the In Your Pocket website came in at number 3! Glen Mutel, editor of ABTA Magazine and travel writer, describes In Your Pocket as ‘entertaining and honest’, and that it makes ‘their rivals seem tame in comparison’. The In Your Pocket team is very proud to have all their hard work rewarded in this way! www.independent.co.uk
It’s now 21 years since we published the first In Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - in which time we have grown to become the largest publisher of locally produced city guides in Europe. We now cover more than 75 cities across the continent (with Batumi, in Georgia, the latest city to be pocketed) and the number of concise, witty, well-written and downright indispensable In Your Pocket guides published each year is approaching five million. We also publish an iPhone app, including more than 40 guides, which can be downloaded for free from the AppStore. Search for ‘IYP Guides’ by name. To keep up to date with all that’s new at In Your Pocket, like us on Facebook (facebook.com/ inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/ inyourpocket).
Editor Ksenia Elzes, firstname.lastname@example.org Layout & Design Malvina Markina email@example.com Research Elizaveta Bolshanina firstname.lastname@example.org PR Ksenia Elzes, email@example.com Contributors Natasha Douglas, Vicky Warrell
The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors. Санкт-Петербург В Твоем Кармане Учредитель и издатель: ООО «Красная Шапка» Россия, 196084 Санкт-Петербург Ул. Цветочная д. 25, лит. А. тел. : + 7 (812) 448 88 65 факс: + 7(812) 448 88 64 Главный редактор: Бонни ван дер Велде Отпечатано в ООО “МДМ-Печать”, 188640, Л.О., г. Вcеволожск, Всеволожский пр., 114 Заказ No59-10 Свидетельство о регистрации средства массовой информации Пи No. 2-6849 от 17.10.03 выдано Северо-Западным региональным управлением комитета РФ по печати. Цена свободная. Тираж 90 000 экз. No90. 01.08.2013 Для детей старше 16 лет.
Commercial department Sales Managers Ilya Timshin firstname.lastname@example.org Peter Smirnov email@example.com To order issues Tanya Kharitonova firstname.lastname@example.org
Copyright notice Text and photos copyright OOO Krasnaya Shapka 2003-2013. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket.
Summer in New Holland This artificial island in the centre of the city was built by Peter the Great in 1721 to be the first arsenal for his fleet of military ships. In later years it became a shipyard, then a naval prison and a Soviet radio station before falling into disuse and neglect. Finally the area has been put to good use again and functions as a summer cultural oasis. The Summer in New Holland festival features farmers markets, cafes, urban gardening, concerts and DJ sets, craft fairs, garage sales, beach volleyball, art installations, lectures and workshops and plenty of space for picnics. Summer in New Holland will run until September 15, 2013, when the island will close for renovation, reopening in 2015. Entry to the island and all events are free. www.newhollandsp.ru
Become a VIP iVIP is a unique premium lifestyle application for the iPhone. Members receive VIP Treatment across a range of luxury partners. The St. Petersburg edition, in partnership with Saint Petersburg Russia Guide Service (SPBGS), gives you exclusive access to all of the SPBGS services, including airport lounges and hotels. You can organise tours of the Hermitage, or float up and down the city’s rivers and canals by boat. Members have access to everything you would expect, including being treated like a VIP at various venues, receiving complimentary room upgrades at luxurious hotels, and getting priority access to events. You can also suggest partners you would like to see included. Members access all of these benefits through the app, and many of them are not available anywhere else. If you live in, or are visiting, the city, the iVIP Russia app is a necessity if you would like an extra special time – it’s a great way to treat yourself! www.ivipworld.com
Four Seasons Opening The highly anticipated Four Seasons Hotel has opened in St. Petersburg. The Lobanov-Rostovsky Palace, also known as the House with Lions due to the lions that stand guard either side of the main entrance, has been completely renovated and the results are truly stunning. Extensive studies of the building and its history were made long before any work began, and it really shows: the renovation stays true to the original palace, even down to the real gold on the ceilings and the colour of the paint. The iconic triangular building was designed by Auguste de Montferrand, the French architect who designed both St. Isaac’s Cathedral and the Alexander Column on Palace Square. Originally conceived as the private address of Russia’s elite, a building containing a number of highly fashionable apartments to be rented by the well-to-do of St. Petersburg, the palace has served many purposes since its construction in 1817-20, but has finally been restored to its original purpose: it’s back, it’s fashionable, and it’s fabulous. The restaurant at the heart of the hotel has a glass roof and is filled with plants and beautiful décor. There is nothing more peaceful than taking afternoon tea here, the sound of strings in the background and the kind smiles of the staff, willing to go out of their way to make your day just that little bit more than perfect. As an historical building, there were of course many restrictions on the renovation of the palace. One of the most interesting of these was the fact that certain historical areas, including the grand staircase and one of the hallways upstairs must be accessible to the public at all times. The renovation didn’t just see restrictions, however, but also huge opportunity. Unlike many other palaces and historical locations, the Four Seasons was able to plan every detail before doing any work. For example, the ballroom was designed for optimum use of modern technology whilst maintaining the beautiful imperial design. And, of course, everywhere has excellent, and invisible, heating. It’s taken a while, as such massive projects always do, but the opening of the Four Seasons hotel in St. Petersburg has really caused a stir in the industry and among the city’s elite. This is definitely a place to see and be seen. www.fourseasons. com/stpetersburg
August - September 2013
Basics AND LANGUAGE
Basics AND LANGUAGE
Be on guard!
Avoid attracting unwanted attention by not speaking loudly in your mother tongue, or walking the streets if you have been drinking. If you are of African, Arab, or Asian descent exercise caution, particularly at night. 02 - Emergency hotline. If you have problems and don’t speak Russian it may be better to call the English language tourist helpine (+7) 812 300 33 33. The Tourist Information office, Ul. Sadovaya 14, can help you file a police report. Your consulate can help you if your passport has been stolen. The police here generally look for any excuse to fine you, so photocopy your passport and visa. Make sure that you always carry a few photocopies; if the police stop you (they check Russians all the time too) then show them the photocopy rather than the original.
Basic phrases No/Yes Net/da Нет/Да Hello Zdrastvuite Здравствуйте Goodbye Dasvidaniya До свидания Thank you Spasibo Спасибо Sorry/excuse me Izvinite Извините Please Pazhalusta Пожалуйста I don't understand Ya ne panimayu Я не понимаю I don't speak Ya ne gavaryu Я не говорю поRussian pa-russky русски Do you speak Vy gavaritye pa- Вы говорите поEnglish? anglisky? английски? Help! Pomogitye! Помогите! Go away! Ostavte menya! Оставьте меня! I need some help Mne nuzhna Мне нужна pomoshch помошь I don't want Ya ne khachu Я не хочу I (don't) like it Mnye (ne) nravitsa Мне (не) нравиться May I? Mozhno? Можно? Do you have...? U vas est…? У вас есть...? I don't know Ya ne znayu Я не знаю How much is it? Skolko stoit? Сколько стоит? It's expensive! Eta dorogo! Это дорого! More/less Yesho/menshe Еще/меньше Large/small Bolshoy/malenky Большой/ маленкий Good/bad Khorosho/plokho Хорошо/плохо It hurts! Bolno! Больно! Today Sevodnya Сегодня Tomorrow Zaftra Завтра Could you write it Zapishite Запишите, down? pazhalusta пожалуйста Toilets Tualet Туалет Stop here please Ostanavite Остановите, pazhalusta пожалуйста When? At what Kogda? Vo skolko? Когда? Во time? сколько? What time is it? Katory chas? Который час? Who? Kto? Кто? How do you say Kak skazat eto Как сказать это that in Russian? pa-russky? по-русски? No problem Bez problem Без проблем Of course Koneshno Конечно Let's go together! Davay vmeste! Давай вместе! Happy Holidays! S Praznikom! С праздником! Password Parol Пароль
Foreigner Prices The ‘foreigner price’ is a hangover from the good old days of Intourist-organised Soviet travel. At some theatres and museums, foreigners are required to pay six to 20 times more than the Russian price. Ouch! These institutions insist that Russian tickets are subsidised with foreigners paying the ‘real price.’ If you have a document (propusk), which says you work or study in Russia, you can usually get the local price.
Pocket dictionary: Kak doma If Russians are known for anything, they are surely known for their great hospitality. When you visit them at their house, they want you to feel kak doma, meaning they want you to feel at home. Kak means how or like, and doma means at home (coming from the Russian noun for house.) When you enter a Russian’s house, they, being good hosts say to you ‘Chustvuite sebya kak doma’ meaning Make yourself at home. Fling off your shoes, slip some tapochki (slippers) onto your feet and head to the dining table. Drink as much as you can and eat as much food as you want (in fact around the Russian dining table, the two activities go hand in hand).
Health and Safety
Alcohol The traditional Russian alcoholic drink is of course vodka. The Poles may also claim that they invented it, but what is certain is that the Russians - and in particular the scientist Mendeleev - are the ones who perfected the recipe. Vodka is cheap and there are literally hundreds of brands to choose from. The most traditional way to drink it is straight as a shot, followed by a salty snack. Beer (pivo) is now the most popular alcoholic drink in Russia and Sovietskoye shampanskoye (Soviet champagne) is the national party drink. Take note that you cannot buy alcohol in shops that is above 0,5% between 23:00 and 08:00.
Climate St. Petersburg is often baking in August and many locals head away to their country homes to escape the heat of the city, so make sure you stay hydrated and give yourself some time under the shade of a tree in the park. September is usually a lovely warm and sunny month and often ends in an Indian summer. Don’t forget your sunglasses!
Despite the rumours, St. Petersburg is no more dangerous than your average European city. Russian drivers are your biggest danger, so cross roads carefully. In the winter icy streets and huge icicles can also pose a danger so watch where you walk. The city’s water is chlorine treated due to parasites and heavy metals, so you can use it to brush your teeth or wash fruit. For drinking or making tea, it is better to stick to bottled water, or clean the tap water with a filter and give it a good boil first.
Mobile Phones You can use your mobile phone if your provider has an international roaming agreement with any of the Russian mobile GSM phone providers in St. Petersburg. Normally, if you are abroad you have to pay roaming charges on all incoming and outgoing calls. If you call to another Russian mobile phone, for a direct-dial number dial seven digits and for a federal number dial 8 and then the 10-digit number. If you call from your mobile to a fixed line just dial the seven-digits. It may be easiest to buy a local SIM card for use in your own phone. To purchase, you need to show your passport, visa and registration.
Money The national currency is the rouble (Rbl). Banknotes come in denominations of 50, 100, 500, 1,000 and 5,000. Rouble coins come in 1, 2, 5 and 10Rbl. There are 100 kopeks to a rouble and kopek coins come in 5, 10 and 50. It’s illegal to pay in dollars or euros. Find ATMs at most metro stations, banks and large hotels.
Registration Remember that you must be registered within 7 days of your arrival in Russia (excluding weekends and public holidays). Hotels are legally obliged to register you within 24 hours of arrival. Many travel agencies can also register you. If you don’t get registered on time, you can expect serious problems when leaving, ranging from paying a fee, to missing your flight while officials interrogate you.
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Bridges Opening Schedule Bridge Dvortsovy Blagoveshchensky Sampsonievsky Grenadersky Kantemirovsky Troitsky Liteiny Birzhevoy Tutchkov Bolsheokhtinsky Volodarsky Alexandra Nevskogo Finlyandsky
Drawing 1:05 - 4:50 1:25 - 2:45, 2:10 - 2:45, 2:45 - 3:45, 2:45 - 3:45, 1:35 - 4:50 1:40 - 4:45 2:00 - 4:55 2:00 - 2:55, 2:00 - 5:00 2:00 - 3:45, 2:20 - 5:10 2:20 - 5:30
3:10 - 5:00 3:30 - 4:25 4:20 - 4:50 4:20 - 4:50
3:35 - 4:55 4:15 - 5:45
Numbers 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11
adin dva tri chetyre pyat shest sem vosem devyat desyat adinatsat
12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 30 40
dvinatsat trinatsat chetyrnatsat pyatnatsat shesnatsat semnatsat vosemnatsat devyatnatsat dvatsat tritsat sorok
50 60 70 80 90 100 500 1000 2000
pyatdesyat shesdesyat semdesyat vosemdesyat devyanosta sto pyatsot tysicha dve tysyachi
In the restaurant/bar Bill Please Shchot pazhalusta Счет, пожалуйста I am a vegetarian Ya vegetarianets Я вегетарианец (Non) smoking (Ne) kuryashchee (Не) курящее place mesto место I am allergic to… U menya allergiya У меня аллергия Very tasty! Ochen vkusno! Очень вкусно!
August - September 2013
Culture & Events Welcome to the cultural capital of Russia! After a day‘s hoofing it through the finest museums and historical locations, you can watch a play, ballet, opera or circus performance any and every night you choose.
Concert Halls and Clubs Avrora club (AVR) E-2, Pirogovskaya nab. 5/2, MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 907 19 17, www.avrora-zal.ru
Club A2 (A2) B-1, Pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.a2.fm Club Cosmonavt (COS) D-4, Bronnitskaya ul., 24, MTekhnologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 922 13 00, www.cosmonavt.su Grand Philharmonic Hall (GPH) D-2, Mikhailovskaya ul., 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 710 42 57, www. philharmonia.spb.ru Jazz Philharmonic Hall (JPH) С-3, Zagorodny pr. 27, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 764 85 65, www. jazz-hall.spb.ru Ledovy Dvorets (LD) Pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. +7 (812) 718 66 20, www.newarena.spb.ru Oktyabrsky Grand Concert Hall (BKZ) E-3, Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 275 12 73, www. bkz.sp.ru Saint Petersburg Opera (SPO) C-2, Galernaya ul. 33, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 67 69, www. spbopera.ru Sport Concert Complex (SKK) Pr. Gagarina 8, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 388 21 64, www.spbckk.ru
Theatres Alexandrinsky Theatre (AT) E-3, Pl. Ostrovskogo 2,
MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 15 45, en.alexandrinsky. ru. Imperial Hermitage Theatre (IHT) C-2, Dvortsovaya nab. 34, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 966 37 76, www. balet-spb.ru. Mariinsky Theatre (MAT) C-4, Teatralnaya pl.1, MSennaya pl, tel. (+7) 812 326 41 41, www.mariinsky.ru. Mikhailovsky Theatre (MIT) D-3, Pl. Iskusstv 1, MNevsky pr, tel.(+7)812 595 43 19, w w w. mikhailovsky.ru. State Theatre of Musical Comedy (MCT) D-3, Italyanskaya ul., 13, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 966 37 76
Buying Concert Tickets Tickets for most events can be bought at ticket offices and kiosks (teatralnaya kassa), of which there are many in the city centre – they are usually very easy to spot as they tend to be plastered in posters for concerts and shows. Of course each venue also sells its own tickets and some venues such as the Mariinsky Theatre also sell tickets online. There are also a number of online services that allow you to reserve and/or buy tickets online and most of them offer delivery anywhere in the city for an additional fee. Kassir.ru The only comprehensive website that offers their event listings in English. Payment options include cash (when picking up the tickets or if delivered) or credit card (MC/V). Bileter.ru This site has the most comprehensive listings available, but is only in Russian. Payment options include cash (when picking up the tickets or if delivered) or credit card (MC/V).
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Culture & Events
E-2, Avrora Club, Pirogovskaya nab. 5/2, MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 907 19 17, www.herbrightskiesofficial.tumblr. com. The Swedish post-hardcore band ‘Her Bright Skies‘ was formed in 2005, with their first demo being released in 2007, called ‘Beside Quiet Waters‘. The year 2007 was very successful for ‘Her Bright Skies‘. When they weren‘t working on new material for the album, they spent the summer performing at popular Swedish festivals, such as Moshpit Open, followed by a tour of Norway, where they first came across the non-Swedish scene. A year later they released their debut album, called ‘A Sacrament; III City‘, and their second album, ‘Causing a Scene‘, was released in 2010. They played the Pier Pressure Festival with, HIM, Pendulum and Paramore. They then headlined the Panic & Action tour. They have performed in many different countries worldwide. Q Tickets 400 - 500Rbl.
20:00 The Smashing Pumpkins
D-1, Club A2, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.smashingpumpkins.com. Fifteen years after their first visit to Russia, American alternative rock legends The Smashing Pumpkins are returning to St Petersburg. They are not only smashing by name, but smashing by nature, with a diverse sound combining elements of gothic rock, heavy metal, shoegazing and many other styles. The concert is part of their World Tour and will combine the 13 songs from their most recent album Oceania with their greatest hits from throughout their 25 year history. Q Tickets 1,300 - 4,500Rbl.
20:00 Her Bright Skies
23:00 Record Zero
B-1, Club Vozdukh, Yuzhnaya doroga 6, MKrestovsky ostrov, tel. (+7) 812 363 33 33, www.radiorecord. ru. Radio Record returns the legendary open air crazy rave atmosphere to St. Petersburg in August - with Record Zero! They remember how it was last time! Thousands of people dressed in acid coloured clothes, and masked men besieged the ‘Jubilee‘. The music that was copied from cassette to cassette, and turned up to the fullest, to irritate the neighbours. It will be an unforgettable break. There are three dance floors, a pool, a beach, and the best zero music. And, of course, the legendary show of naked women! Q Tickets 800 - 25,000Rbl.
24.08 Saturday - 31.08 Saturday
The Ninth Elena Obraztsova International Competition of Young Opera Singers D-3, Grand Philharmonic Hall, Mikhailovskaya ul. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 710 42 90, www.obraztsova. org. Over 100 young opera singers from across the globe will be taking part in this year’s competition. With an impressive jury, including names such as Tamara Synyavska, Renato Bruzon and Grace Bumbry, and headed by the world renowned opera singer Elena Obraztsova, the competition promises to be fierce and the music beautiful. This seven day competition will involve performances of arias from operas as well as chamber and vocal works. The prize money is high, as will be the standards. As part of the event there will also be an exhibition of art by Mist Zhumbaeva dedicated to the 50th anniversary of Elena Obraztsova’s career. You can buy tickets for the opening (24.08) and the final concert (31.08). Q Concerts start at 19:00. Tickets 800 - 3,000Rbl.
September events 03.09 Tuesday
D-4, Club Cosmonavt, Bronnitskaya ul. 24, MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www. lenkamusic.com. Lenka Kripac is the daughter of a Czech musician, and grew up in Australia. She became famous for her song ‘Everything at Once‘, which was used in the Windows 8 advertisement. She began song writing in childhood, but chose a career in television. It was only when she became a well-known TV presenter that Lenka recorded two albums with a local band. She then moved to California. There, she became known as Lenka, which is also the name of her debut album. On 3rd September in St. Petersburg, Lenka will not only sing everyone‘s favourite ‘Everything at Once‘, but also present her new album ‘Shadows‘. Q Tickets 1,000 - 2,200Rbl.
D-4, Club Cosmonavt, Bronnitskaya ul. 24, MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www. eluveitie.ch. The legendary Swiss rock band Eluveitie is coming to St. Petersburg with their new album ‘Helvetios‘ and their greatest hits! The band was founded accidentally in 2001 when Christian ‘Kriegel‘ Glanzmann decided to record a solo album, and invited many different musicians to participate. The recording, ‘Vкn‘ (‘wild joy‘ in Gallic) impressed the audience so much that Glanzmann decided to put together a band, naming it after the Etruscan language name for a Helvetii tribe that inhabited the territory that is now Switzerland. Eluveitie is one of the most successful European folk metal bands, and each of their albums has historical significance. They combine ancient instruments with electric guitars, and dedicate their songs to bloody battles and romantic legends. Q Tickets 800 - 1,600Rbl.
Philharmonia New Season
D-3, Grand Philharmonic Hall, Mikhailovskaya ul. 2; Small Philharmonic Hall, Nevsky pr. 30, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 710 42 90, www.philharmonia. spb.ru. According to tradition, on 25th September, the birthday of Dmitri Shostakovich, the St. Petersburg Philharmonic Orchestra will begin its 93rd season. The first concert of the season will take place with the participation of the Russian Philharmonic Orchestra under Yuri Temirkanov. The programme includes Dmitri Shostakovich’s sixth symphony, and ‘The Rite of Spring’ by Igor Stravinsky. This will be the 100th anniversary of the performance of this composition, first performed on the stage of the Paris Theatre on the Champs Elysees. This season will see the celebration of the 75th anniversary of the artistic director of the St. Petersburg Philharmonic Orchestra, maestro Yuri Temirkanov. This will be marked by the upcoming festival ‘Arts Square’, which will be held from 14th-25th December, and will bring together musicians such as Mariss Jansons, Evgeny Kissin, Vadim Repin, Denis Matsuev, Yuri Bashmet, Pinchas Zukerman, and Eliso Virsaladze. The Royal Philharmonic Orchestra of London will also perform, under Pinchas Zuckerman. In his anniversary year, Yuri Temirkanov will give eleven concerts with the orchestra, with partners including the singers Natalie Dessay and Johan Kupfer, cellist Mischa Maisky, violinist Andrey Baranov, and pianists Denis Matsuev, Eliso Virsaladze and Nikolai Lugansky. For the first time in his history at the St. Petersburg Philharmonic Orchestra, Yuri Temirkanov will conduct the double-row “German Requiem” by Johannes Brahms. Concerts take place on 25 and 26 March 2014. Other highlights include piano evenings, a series of chamber orchestra concerts, the ‘Musical Collection’ Festival in June, a series of concerts dedicated to the 100th anniversary of Benjamin Britten, and performances from the baritone Vassily Gerello and the rising opera star Julia Lezhneva. On the anniversary of the death of Alexander Pushkin, the Small Philharmonic Hall will present a theatrical composition by Alexander Sokurov, accompanied by the ‘Requiem’ composition by Mozart.
For all the latest concert, event and exhibition news follow us on facebook at www.facebook.com/ StPetersburgInYourPocket August - September 2013
Culture & Events
Culture & Events 07.09 Saturday
13.09 Friday - 16.09 Monday
Club Zal Ozhidaniya, nab. Obvodnogo kan. 118, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 333 10 68, www.yonderboi. com. After a long break away from Russia, the most talented Hungarian dark lounge/ trip-hop composer, Yonderboi, is returning, with his audio-visual show! Young Hungarian Laszlo Fogarasi, aka Yonderboi, is known as a child prodigy: he began recording at the age of just 16, and at 19 released his first CD ‘Shallow and Profound‘. In 2005, he released his second album, ‘Splendid Isolation‘. Laszlo Fogarasi is a fan of old European and Hungarian cinema cartoons, mid-20th century hazz, and modern trip-hop , and manages to combine them all in his music and shows. He fits well into the European electronic family. Q Tickets 500 - 1,200Rbl.
20:00 Bondage Fairies
E-2, Avrora Club, Pirogovskaya nab. 5/2, MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 907 19 17, www.myspace.com/bondagefairiessweden. Bondage Fairies is a two-man punk/ death rock band from Sweden. Their music is describes as an offspring of punk and electro. Elvis Creep started the band after being rejected from art school, and was joined by Deus Deceptor. They perform with their faces hidden by masks, so that they know that their fans like them for their music, and not for their ‘cute faces‘. They are now world famous, releasing their first album ‘What You Didn‘t Know When You Hired Me‘ in 2005. The release was a hit in Russia, Germany and China, but not in their home country. They now have four members, three studio albums, and are going on tour. Q Tickets 700 - 1,100Rbl.
Moroshka Fashion Week 22.08 Thursday - 25.08 Sunday
Moroshka Fashion Week 2013
D-2, The Atrium of the Peter and Paul Fortress, MGorkovskaya, www.moroshka.org. From 22nd25th August, the Atrium of the Peter and Paul Fortress will host the elite Moroshka Fashion Week 2013. This is a platform for designers of varying sizes, and working in differing directions. Along with European designers, such as Miko Spinelli, Mastruka, and Andrea Lazzari, Russian designers, including Stas Lopatkin, and Janis Chamalidi were invited to participate. The business, cultural, and political elite will gather together, as well as well-known fashion-bloggers and celebrities. Guests include European fashion figures, including Luca Bacelli. This event marks the next step in forming the image of St. Petersburg as a world fashion capital. Q Entrance is by invitation only. To get an invitation please call our office.
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
CHAPLIN the Musical
D-3, State Theatre of Musical Comedy, Italyanskaya ul. 13, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 53 16, www. chaplinbroadway.com. From 13th-16th September, the St. Petersburg State Theatre of Musical Comedy will present the premiere of the Broadway musical ‘Chaplin‘, based on the life and work of the great movie actor. The American director and choreographer Warren Carlyle, who brought the musical to Broadway, will be in charge of the St. Petersburg production. Broadway professionals will work behind the scenes. The audience will see the history of Charlie Chaplin, his entire career, from his childhood poverty, to his rise to fame. Q Tickets 400 - 3,500Rbl.
20:00 The Rasmus
20:00 Jay-Jay Johanson
Club Zal Ozhidaniya, nab. Obvodnogo kan. 118, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 333 10 68, www.jayjayjohanson.com. Jay Jay Johanson is a Swedish singersongwriter, born in 1969. He learnt to play the guitar when he was 14, and drew inspiration from Elvis. He began to create his own music in the mid-nineties, with the result of three albums: Whiskey (1996), Tattoo (1998), and Poison (2000). The album Antenna appeared in 2002, and was a success Europe had not heard something like that before. The Poison album was co-written by the Cocteau Twins guitarist Robin Guthrie, with a follow-up arrangement by Johanson. The album has gained popularity on Europe, occupying high positions in the music charts (reaching number 4 in France). That year, Johanson recorded the soundtrack to the film La Confusion des Genres. He then released the single ‘On the Radio‘. The follow-up albums to Atenna, ‘Rush‘ and ‘The Effects are not Yet Known‘, are more musically divers, combining the melancholic tone of the first jazz trip-hop albums with the electro sounds from Antenna. It seems he can now do it all. Currently the musician has released more than 30 albums (LP‘s, EP‘s, single albums). Q Tickets 1,000 - 2,500Rbl.
D-4, Club Cosmonavt, Bronnitskaya ul. 24, MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www. therasmus.com. Legendary Finnish rock group The Rasmus is returning to St. Petersburg for a live show combining the band’s hits with some fresh new songs. The Rasmus has one of those classic stories of which most can only dream: 3 ordinary high school students formed a rock back, they performed at their prom, they lived for the music without pretention. And then their songs began to rise in the charts and now they’re famous across the globe. The Rasmus’ passion and energy is well-known, and this concert promises to be no different. Q Tickets 1,700 - 3,850Rbl.
Open Cinema 2013
02.08 Friday - 08.08 Thursday
Open Cinema. International film festival
D-2, Peter and Paul Fortress, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 927 85 08, www.opencinemafest.ru. From 2nd-8th August, St. Petersburg will host the 9th International short and animation film festival OPEN CINEMA. The atmosphere of creativity will fill the city for seven days and will turn it into the territory of free auteur cinematography. The festival starts with two-day movie marathons at the beach of the Peter and Paul Fortress. There will be also a two hour concert on both evenings (start at 20:00), beach games (volleyball, badminton, Frisbee) and creative workshops. From 4th-8th August, the festival will continue in the cinema center Rodina (Karavannaya ul. 12, metro Nevsky pr.) with displays of competitive cinema, educational events and workshops. Over 21 countries, including the UK, France, The Netherlands, Belgium, Thailand, and Kazakhstan, are participating in the short film competition, and the winner will be announced at the closing ceremony of the festival on 8th August. Q Tickets 500 - 600Rbl.
20:00 Brit Floyd. P-U-L-S-E 2013
19:30 Selena Gomez
Ledovy Dvorets, pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, www.selenagomez.com. American singer and actor, Selena Gomez, is coming to St. Petersburg for a concert in the Ice Palace. Having made her acting debut as a child in the popular television series ‘Barney and Friends’, and going on to do a number of television series and films, Selena came to music quite late in comparison to her acting career, and still juggles the two disciplines. So concerts are somewhat limited: get your tickets now if you want to see her! Q Tickets from 7,000Rbl.
Ledovy Dvorets, pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, www.britfloyd.com. In celebration of the 40th anniversary of Pink Floyd‘s defining album ‚The Dark Side of the Moon‘, Brit Floyd tribute band is on tour with a new three hour show featuring songs from the five classic Pink Floyd albums. In Petersburg the show will have an all-new light show with hypnotic animations and projections. Musical director, guitarist and vocalist Damian Darlington has such an excellent knowledge of Pink Floyd‘s music that he somehow manages to maintain the original style, keeping all the nuances, and yet also present the music in a new and exciting way. Q Tickets 800 - 3,500Rbl.
August - September 2013
Culture & Events
Culture & Events
Through 31.08 Saturday
Through 19.08 Monday
D-2, Beach of the Peter and Paul Fortress, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www.spbmuseum. ru. The annual Sand Sculpture Festival is theoretically designed with children in mind, but is fun for all ages. Sculptors from all over Europe, as well as from North America, will be taking part in the festival creating huge elaborate sculptures made from sand in a whole manner of different amusing, intelligent, mystical and grandiose styles. Q Open 10:00 - 21:00.
The 400th anniversary of the Romanovs
D-2, Mikhailovsky Palace, Inzhenernaya ul. 4, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www.rusmuseum.ru. The last time the anniversary of the Romanov dynasty was celebrated as a national holiday was in 1913, as, after the October Revolution, this day was suppressed. However, in 2013, the foundation of the House of Romanov, on 14th March 1613, is being observed again. St. Michael‘s Castle (Mikhailovsky Palace) is hosting an exhibition of more than 150 works of paintings, sculptures, graphics, and decorative arts from the Russian Museum. It features drawings dedicated to this moment in history, as well as paintings and sculpture of members of the royal family, created by famous artists including L.Karavak and G.Odolsky. Q Open 10:00 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue.
Through 04.11 Monday
Sand Sculpture Festival
Leningrad of the 1920’s - 1940’s
01.08 Thursday - 31.08 Saturday
Beauty without Glamour
Boris Kocheishvili 14.08 Wednesday - 16.09 Monday
Boris Kocheishvili. Simple Summer
D-2, The Marble Palace, Millionnaya ul. 5/1, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www. rusmuseum.ru. The artist Boris Kocheishvili formed his distinctive style as early as the 1960s, and his works from the last ten years will be on display, including paintings and plaster reliefs. Kocheishvili is not only a major contemporary artist, but also a poet, and the author of six books. His poems were included in the two volume anthology of Russian poetry from 1950-2000, and the very title of the exhibition, ‘Simply Summer‘, comes from the collection of his poems, which has been republished, complete with illustrations by the author. The exhibition space includes quotes from his poems, as well as a documentary film about Kocheishvili. Q Open 10:00 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue.
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
D-3, Stroganov Palace, Nevsky pr. 17, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www.rusmuseum. ru. The exhibition traces the development of Russian photography in the nude genre, beginning in the 1900s, to the beginning of the 21st century. There are around 100 works which are related to the image of the nude female form, from the creativity of local photographers who have worked both in Russia and abroad. Among the artists are A.Eberling, N.Svishchov-Paola, A.Knyazev, D.Vozdvizhensky, A.Esipovich and others. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue.
Through 02.09 Monday
D-2, Benois Wing, nab. kan. Griboedova 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, w w w. rusmuseum.ru. The exhibition is dedicated to the 150th anniversar y of the birth of the famous Russian artist A. Golovin. It contains about 150 works, including paintings, drawings, and theatre and decorative art from the collection of several museums, such as the Russian Museum, the Russian Geographical Museum, and the St. Petersburg State Museum of Theatre and Music. Also included in the exhibition are authentic costumes from the Alexandrinsky Theatre‘s collection, which were designed by the artist. He designed the production at the Mariinsky and Alexandrinksy Theatres, and preferred to paint actors, singers, dancers, and stage workers. Some of his famous landscapes, such as ‘Forest River‘, and ‘Autumn‘, are also on display. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue.
C-3, The Rumyantsev Mansion, Angliskaya nab. 44, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. 498 05 03, www.spbmuseum. ru. The State Museum of the History of St. Petersburg presents a new exhibition in the Rumyantsev Mansion. The exhibition shows Leningrad through the works of artists of the 1920s to the 1940s. It brings together more than 100 paintings in the museum‘s collection, as well as other museums and private collections. Most of the painters were part of the Leningrad art group ‘Circle of Artists‘, which included A.S. Vedernikov, A.F. Pakhomov, and A.N. Samokhvalov. The exhibition shows cityscapes of Leningrad, with familiar and unfamiliar parts of the city, such as the Moika, a flea market, the old town, and industrial areas. Perfect for anyone with an interest in art or history. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00, Tue 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed.
Through January 2014
Gegenlicht. German Art from the George Economou Collection D-2, The State Hermitage Museum, The General Staff Building, Dvortsovaya nab. 34, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 90 79, www.hermitagemuseum.org. This temporary exhibition of German art from the George Economou Collection explores the legacy of German Expressionism and New Objectivity in post-war and contemporary art. The exhibition brings together important works from the last century, juxtaposing various pieces to show the influence of earlier artists on those working in the latter part of the twentieth century. Accompanied by an illustrated catalogue in Russian and English including essays from prominent art historians, the exhibition promises to be both accessible and thought-provoking for all those who visit. Q Open 10:30 18:00, Sun 10:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon.
Zenit will be gunning for a new title when its kicks off the new Russian Premier League season on July 17 in Krasnodar. Zenit has its first two games of the year on the road, then comes to Petrovsky Stadium for the home opener in St. Petersburg on July 26 vs. Kuban. The home faithful will no doubt fill the whole stadium on a glorious summer day, so it’s best to buy an E-ticket early at tickets.fc-zenit.ru. Zenit will also be hosting new rival Anzhi on August 17 at Petrovsky Stadium, and Lokomotiv on August 31. Furthermore, Zenit has its work cut out to qualify for this year’s Champions League group stage. Zenit must first get through two Champions League qualifying rounds. Zenit is exempt from rounds 1 and 2 thanks to its second place performance in last year’s Russian Premier League, but must pass through rounds 3 and 4. Zenit is a seeded team for the third round qualification draw, and can play with PAOK (Greece), Salzburg (Austria), Nordsjælland (Denmark), Grasshoppers (Switzerland), or Zulte-Waregem (Belgium). The draw for the third qualifying round of the UEFA Champions League will be held on July 19 in Nyon, Switzerland. The first matches take place on July 30 or 31, and the return leg is on August 6 or 7. Visitors to beautiful St. Petersburg who can’t get to a Zenit match have another brilliant option this summer to learn more about the city’s favorite club. Zenit has opened a new exhibition about the football traditions of St. Petersburg entitled “Zenit in the Heart of the City”. The exhibition was opened on July 4, and will be running for the next two months, through September 3. The exhibition covers three rooms in the St. Petersburg History Museum, located in one of St. Petersburg’s most iconic locations: the Peter and Paul Fortress. The exhibition is open from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m., every day of the week except Wednesday. Take a look and see what makes local residents so proud of their football traditions! The exhibition contains models of former and current St. Petersburg football stadiums, tickets to the match between Zenit and Spartak Kharkov, which was supposed to take place on July 22, 1941, but never did because of the outbreak of World War II, rare uniforms worn by Leningrad footballers, and unique trophies. Furthermore, the exhibition has an interactive component through which fans can learn historic facts, or just play fussball together. Entrance to the exhibition costs 150Rbl for adults, and 70Rbl for a reduced fare ticket.
August - September 2013
FeatureS Rubinshteina Street Ulitsa Rubinshteina is today known for its plethora of diverse bars, cafes, and restaurants and there is even talk of making it a pedestrian zone, one of the few such places in the city centre. Initially an alley that appeared in the 1740s, it received the name of Troitksy pereulok in 1798, before its upgrade to the status of Troitskaya ul. in 1887. It was renamed in honour of composer Anton Rubinshtein (1829-1894) in 1929. He lived for a number o f yea r s a t h o u s e 3 8. Considered one of the 19th Painting by Ilya Repin, 1915 century’s premiere piano virtuosos and the author of 20 operas, he also founded the St. Petersburg Conservatory (his older brother Nikolay founded the Moscow Conservatory). At the beginning of the street if walking away from the McDonald’s on Nevsky (for your reference: odd-numbered buildings will be on your right and even-numbered ones on the left) is the former residence of the great Prince Sergey Aleksandrovich (House 1), the boarding houses of P.K. Palkin (4) and the duke G.G. Meklenburg-Strelitsky (5). At the corner of Grafsky Pereulok is a rather new structure, having been built by Soviet authorities in 1929-1931 in an early constructivist style by architect Andrey Ol (7). Olga Berggolts (1910-1975), a poet famous for lifting the spirits of Leningrad residents through radio addresses during the Blockade, lived in the building from 1932-1943. She called it the “most absurd building in St. Petersburg”. It is called Dom-kommuna inzhenirov i pisateley (Communal House of Engineers and Writers), and informally known as Sleza sotsializma (the tears of socialism). This is a classic example of socialist housing philosophy as these domkommuna buildings were supposed to become the norm for the proletarian idea of the communisation of everyday life. Living in such communal spaces was intended to be a method for killing the habits of individualism prevalent before the Revolution. Originally there were 52 apartments, a shower at the end of each hall, and no kitchens. A cafeteria was located on site. As a specific trend, it waned by the end of the 1930s. Across the street at the corner of Grafsky pereulok (18) is the Theatre of Europe, also known as the Maly Dramatichesky Teatr, where a theatrical museum and library is also currently housed. This building was constructed in 1837, and
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
FeatureS reconstructed in 1899 by architect Aleksandr Fon Gogen (1856-1914) who himself lived at this address for ten years. The building is also the former boarding house of Levky Zheverzheev, who is also the founder of the museum and library housed here. Following up on the right is the boarding and meeting house of M.F. Ruadze originally built in 1863-1864 (13). Many different institutions were located in this building over the years, including the St. Petersburg Assembly of Artists, the head office of the Journal of the Ministry of the People’s Enlightenment, the Arctic Society, the St. Petersburg Drama Society, a gymnasium, theatre director Vsevolod Meyerhold’s studio, and in Soviet times a school. Beginning in 1981, it also was the home of the Leningrad Rock Club, the epicentre of the Soviet rock scene during perestroika. Monitored by the KGB, it was the first legal rock music venue in the city and legendary bands such as Kino, Alisa, DDT, and Akvarium performed there regularly. Today it houses the children’s musical theatre, Zerkalo. The next building is the boarding house of count Mikhail Tolstoy (1845-1913), designed in the Nordic National Romantic Style (15-17). Tolstoy was a hero of the RussianTurkish War of 1877-1878 and the home was built just before his death between 1910-1912. The design of this building is quite complex with three arches that lead through separate courtyards from Rubinshteina to the Fontanka Canal. Over the years many television programmes and movies have been filmed in these courtyards. Among the many famous people that have resided in this building is Eduard Khil (1934-2012), the Soviet crooner who became famous in the last years of his life for the Youtube sensation, Trololo.
(+7) 812 764 52 56. Combining the cosy with the modern, the centrally located cafe-bar Fartuk (rus. Apron) is one of those charming family-run places that make you want to return again and again. A communal country-kitchen style table and gorgeous Provencal floor tiles dominate the centre of the room and set the friendly and relaxed tone which is shared by the welcoming and attentive young waitstaff. European and Asian cuisine. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. €. PTAGSW
Shchastye (Happiness) E-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 15/17, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 572 26 75, www.schaste-est.com. That happiness can be found in a restaurant is wonderful news indeed for food lovers. Happiness is adorned with dozens of garden style cupids amid fresh white boards and a trendy white interior. Comfortable benches are situated in two dining halls and the menu offers excellent salads, pasta dishes and various traditional Italian meats. European cuisine.QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 06:00, Sat 10:00 - 06:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. €€. PTASW
Marcelli‘s D-3, Nevsky 43, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7)
SoUsy E-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 11, MDostoevskaya, tel.
Pepper Moon E-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 9/3, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 969 85 98, www.grato-group.ru/ peppermoon. From the street, the restaurant looks very small, but in reality its three rooms can accommodate more than 100 people. The designers have realized an interesting and complex idea with transforming walls: if you want to sit alone and have no one bother you, you can ask the waiter to fully insulate your table. Note the icy display case of fresh fish and seafood. You can choose what you want, and how it is cooked. International cuisine. Q €€. PTASW
Vinostudia E-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 38, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 78 38, www.vinobar.ru. Vinostudia derives its concept from the German writer, artist and politician Johann Wolfgang von Goethe: life is too short to drink bad wine! And right he is, although we would like to add to that: life is too short to drink bad, overpriced wine, which is often the case in Russia, but not in this gastrobar! We liked this place so much that we hurried back to check it out a second time. The wine list is good and reasonably priced. So if you are looking for a modern, relaxed atmosphere to sip great wine, this is a good choice. European cuisine. Q Open 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 05:00 €€. PASW
Restaurants on Rubinshteina street Fartuk E-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 15/17, MDostoevskaya, tel.
812 984 41 44, www.marcellis.ru. Marcelli‘s is a chain of welcoming Italian restaurants with a simple style reflecting the usual images of Italy (jars of condiments and olives here, an Italian meat and cheese case there), although it’s the tables full of noisy dinners that really make up the unpretentious atmosphere. The pared-down menu tends towards pastas and risottos in marathon-runner-sized portions. The dishes pop with garlic and the sauces are infused to bursting point with tomato, chili and basil - delicious. Italian cuisine. Q Open 24hrs. €. PTASW
(+7) 812 947 35 72. It has an unusual format for a restaurant in St. Petersburg, offering a small menu of six dishes, salad, soup of the day, and one dessert. You will be served a set of three original sauces (there are 18 overall on the menu, and you can order any one you like separately) to complement each dish. In the background, they exclusively play classical music, and there is a string quartet every evening. European cuisine. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00. €€. PAESW
Two famous writers lived in building 23: Soviet science fiction novelist and philosopher Ivan Yefremov (1908-1972) and journalist and writer Sergey Dovlatov (1941-1990). Yefremov is best known for his 1957 classic Andromeda Nebula, which tells the story of a communist utopia set far in the future. Dovlatov lived in this building in a communal apartment for several decades before immigrating to the United States in the late 1970s. Known for his clear depictions of Soviet life and its absurdities, he was influential in samizdat (self-published works) in the Soviet Union, and helped put Russian New York on the literary map. Most often compared to Anton Chekhov, his wit and insights have made him a very popular author, available in probably every bookstore in the country. A plaque honours his memory here. Ul. Rubinshteina ends when it meets up with three other streets (Zagorodny pr., Razyezzhaya ul., and ul. Lomonosova) to form Pyat uglov (five corners), the only such intersection in all of St. Petersburg. At the corner of Rubinshteina and Zagorodny (38) is where acclaimed Soviet theoretical physicist Matvey Bronshtein (1906-1938) lived before he was arrested during the Great Purges in 1937. He was executed the following February.
August - September 2013
FeatureS Raketa factory Raketa is not only the oldest factory in Russia, but also the only watch factory in the whole country. Additionally, it is one of the only watch factories in the world, the only others being Rolex and Swatch, that manufactures its own movements; including the hair spring and escapement. It was founded as a stone carving factory in 1721 by Peter the Great, producing items for the Russian royal family. After the outbreak of the Great Patriotic War of 1812, what had become the Petrodvorets watch factory was reorganised to supply the Russian army with equipment. The factory also provided the stones of Lenin’s Mausoleum, and the famous red stars which you can see on top of the Kremlin’s towers. The factory began producing watches in 1949 under the name Zvezda (star) and Pobeda (victory). In 1961, Yuri Gagarin made the first flight in history into outer space; the factory renamed the brand Raketa (rocket) to commemorate this. With the help of Swiss engineers, the factory began to be reorganised in 2009. There are now approximately 60 workers, (originally there were around 6000), still using the factory’s original buildings. The factory purchased modern equipment from the Swatch group in 2011, which improved the watch quality; although a range of Soviet machines indispensible to the watch-making process are still in use. An
Raketa Polar Watch One of Raketa’s most interestin g wa tch es is th e ‘Pol yarnye’ (Polar) model, which was designed specifically for Soviet polar explorers. Following a Soviet State order in 1969, a Raketa 2623 H movement with its 24 hour dial, and luminous watch face in order to be easily visible in the dark, was made for those who were braving long polar nights and extremel y low temperatures. The ‘Polyarnye’ watch was originally exclusively distributed by special order, and therefore was not available to the public. By the mid 1970s, watches designed for submariners and astronauts were created on the basis of the ‘Polyarnye’ model. This model only became available to the public after the beginning of perestroika – in fact, just hours after it began the watch model began to appear in shops. This watch has been newly redesigned, and now has a sapphire glass and a genuine leather strap. It features the North and South Poles on its face, and a unique design with animals associated with the Arctic and Antarctic on the back.
We‘ve selected a range of accommodation options from some of the top end wallet-busters down to the frugal and friendly options. Prices include VAT (18%) and breakfast unless otherwise indicated. All prices listed are according to the information received by us from hotels for the period August - September 2013. In Your Pocket assumes no responsibility for discrepancies and changes in pricing.
ex-Rolex production director joined the team in 2012, planning to pass on the Swiss standard certification “Chronofiable” and “COSC” to the company. In 2013, Raketa launched its new “Automat Raketa” movement, and a new watch designed by the famous actress Natalia Vodianova. Raketa watches were produced for the Communist Party and affiliate organisations, and their watches are therefore tailored to the needs of these jobs. The ‘Seaman’ watch has a 24 hour dial, divided into three watch systems: Russian, British, and Scandinavian, and is decorated with marine cardinal buoys and International Marine signal flags. It features an integrated solar compass, and a double time system, useful when sailing around the world. The ‘Traveller’ watch, inspired by Russia’s vastness, features all of the country’s eleven time zones. Other watches include the ‘Eternal Calendar’, which allows the user to look up any date and discover which day of the week it will fall on, and the ‘Gorbachev’ watch, which features a 0 instead of a 12. Foreign journalists questioned its uniqueness, to which Gorbachev’s reply was: ‘in Russia, we start at again at 0’. As these organisations had a male majority, Raketa produce few women’s watches. Some designs include the ‘Ballerina’ watch, which features red stars on its face reminiscent of those on the Kremlin; and the ‘Winter’ watch, inspired by Russian folk tales. Raketa manufactures watches to commemorate special occasions. In 2012, the ‘Borodino’ watch, featuring an eagle, a symbol of the Russian Empire, was created to celebrate the 200th anniversary of the Great Patriotic War. The factory also designed a watch for the Sochi Winter Olympics in 2014, with a different sport represented at each hour. The company offers free tours (available in English) of the factory, which is located near Peterhof Palace. Visitors can look at the machines, learn more of the factory’s history from the workers, and see the watch models; they would make great souvenirs of your time in Russia. www.raketa.com
Where to Buy
Corinthia Hotel St. Petersburg E-3, Nevsky pr. 57,
MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 20 01, www. corinthia.com. Following a 90-million-euro refurbishment the Corinthia has now become the largest five-star conference and business hotel in the city. From the very entrance, compromising of a huge elegant lobby down to the stylishly modern rooms and posh dining facilites, the impression is that this place has had a most thorough polish - the shine on those chandeliers is positively blinding! Happily the staff are just as welcoming as the rooms and the conference organisation is top class. Q388 rooms (Room prices start at 18,150Rbl). Extra bed 2,380Rbl. Breakfast 1,330Rbl. PTHAUFLGKDW hhhhh
Domina Prestige Hotel St. Petersburg С-3, Nab.
reky Moiky 99, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 385 99 00, www.dominarussia.com. This in the first venture into Russia from the Italian Domina Hotel brand. In a boutique hotel style the entrance is subtle yet impressive with a colourful and bright lobby lit by a huge skylight and impressive contemporary chandelier. Tucked away discreetly to the side is the canal-view cocktail bar Nove decorated in larger-than-life style with neon bright colours and art installations. Up in the rooms there’s ample space to work, rest and play with large desks, rain showers and gigantic beds. The colour scheme here too is bright and adventurous without a spot of beige in sight, which is all part of Domina’s aim to make guests feel that this is not just a hotel, it’s an experience. Q109 rooms (Room price start at 10,500Rbl). Extra bed 2,100Rbl. Breakfast 1,200Rbl. PTHA6ULGKDwW hhhhh
Babochka multibrand boutiques:
Nevksy pr. 36, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 324 32 29. Q Open 11:00 – 22:00. www.babochka.ru.
Status watch shops:
Bol. Morskaya ul. 14, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 717 59 39. Q Open 11:00 – 21:00 www.status-watch.ru Salon Bure, Nevsky pr. 23, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 75 34. Q Open 11:00 – 21:00, Sat 11:00 – 20:00, Sun 11:00 – 19:00. www.salonbure.com
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Angleterre Hotel D-3, Ul. Malaya Morskaya 24, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 56 66, www.angleterrehotel.com. This luxury hotel in the heart of the city caters to its high-end business clients with multiple conference rooms, a unique amphitheatre style presentation hall that also periodically hosts film festivals and a fitness centre complete with a Finnish sauna and swimming pool. Rooms are cosy, comfy and contemporary in style with simple red accents and parquet flooring. Views of St. Isaac‘s are unparalleled from their deluxe suites or the posh corner Caviar Bar. The Italian head chef has made Borsalino a destination for years with their expertly executed Italian dishes and pastries plus a business lunch buffet that changes daily. Q193 rooms (Room price start at 7,000Rbl). PTHAFLGKDCW hhhhh
P Air conditioning
A Credit cards accepted
T Child friendly
H Conference facilities
U Facilities for the disabled
C Swimming pool
L Guarded parking
F Fitness centre
G Non-smoking rooms
M Nearest metro station
6 Animal friendly
W Wi-Fi connection
August - September 2013
Four Seasons Hotel Lion Palace St. Petersburg
D-3, Voznesensky pr. 1, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 339 80 00, www.fourseasons.com/stpetersburg/. It may be situated at the foot of St. Isaac‘s Cathedral, but the Four Seasons Hotel certainly doesn‘t stand in its shadow. The newly renovated House with Lions is an extraordinary triangular building whose exterior is almost as impressive as its interior. Think ‘cellists, plush carpets and gold-leafed ceiling work. The Four Seasons is the epitome of classy. The hotel not only offers luxurious suites and guest rooms, but also impeccable service and top quality amenities. With an impressive ballroom and a stunning bar, along with two restaurants and a spa to open later, what more could we possibly want? Since it‘s just been renovated, everything in the hotel is completely up-to-date and the whole project has been meticulously thought through for the comfort and convenience of the guests. And all that with a more than generous serving of style. Q183 rooms (Room prices start at 12,000Rbl). Extra bed 2,000Rbl. VAT and breakfast (1,750Rbl) not included. PTHA6UFLGKDCW hhhhh
Grand Hotel Europe D-3, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 60 00, www.grandhoteleurope.com. Occupying the full length of Mikhailovskaya Street, this palatial historical hotel has it all, from the original art-deco detailing to the exquisite, enormous bathrooms in the downstairs bar to the 60cm mattresses and plush divine room fittings. Suites themed around personages, places and institutions dear to the heart of St. Petersburg are gorgeously designed down to the last detail. There are also five top-notch restaurants including the popular Caviar Bar (the only one in the city) or authentic Chinese at Chopsticks. For fine dining, L‘Europe with its stained glass art deco interior simply cannot be beat for style or history. The Mezzanine Cafe, with its atrium above, oozes elegance and bustles with livewire atmosphere. The Grand Hotel Europe plays an important role in the city, with many famous guests, including Bill Clinton, Elton John, and Peter Ilyich Tchaikovsky. Three royals visited in 2011 – Queen Sofia of Spain, Queen Margrethe II and Queen Paola of Belgium. Q276 rooms (Room prices start at 11,200Rbl). VAT and Breakfast (2,000Rbl) are not included. PTHA6UFLGKDW hhhhh
Hotel Astoria C-2, Bol. Morskaya ul. 39, MAdmiralteis-
kaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 57 57, www.thehotelastoria. com. The elegant lobby features a sweeping spiral staircase, the Rotonda Lounge which offers afternoon tea and caviar, the Lichfield Bar where you can try original cocktails and the newly opened restaurant Astoria Café. Throughout the hotel is steeped in history and great care has been taken to preserve the original marblework, crystal chandeliers and art nouveau accents. The rooms have been given contemporary upgrades such as all natural linens and rain showers. The presidential suites feature art, furniture and lighting from the original collection. Other amenities include conference spaces in the historical Winter Garden and Ballroom, a wide choice of treatments at Decleor SPA and a branch of the Paris-based Carita salon. Q188 rooms (Room prices start at 8,000Rbl). PTHAFGKDwW hhhhh
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
hotels Kempinski Hotel Moika 22 D-2, Nab. Reky Moiky 22, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 91 11, www. kempinski.com/stpetersburg. The Kempinski Hotel Moika 22 is located in a charming and historical area, in the very heart of St. Petersburg, on the Moika River, opposite the renowned Hermitage Museum and Palace Square. The Hotel is just two minutes walk from the Nevsky Prospect and close to all major sights and shopping. The unique location of the panoramic Bellevue Brasserie on the ninth floor of the hotel makes it one of the most awe-inspiring places in the whole old St Petersburg. The Kempinski Hotel Moika 22 offers 197 rooms and suites and features the panoramic Bellevue Brasserie restaurant, Beau Rivage restaurant; Wine Cellar 1853; Tea Room and the Von Witte bar with its log fireplace. Q197 rooms (Room prices start at 11,475Rbl). Extra bed 3,150Rbl. Breakfast 1,575Rbl. PTHA6FLGKDW hhhhh Radisson Royal Hotel E-3, Nevsky pr. 49/2, MVladi-
mirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 322 50 00, www.radisson.ru/ hotel-stpetersburg. In this central 1730s building the welltrained staff take a professional but personal approach and the hotel offers a 100% satisfaction guarantee. The suites have stylish glass panelling, comfortable arm chairs and tall arched windows. There‘s the lovely renovated Barbazan Restaurant serving international cuisine and the gorgeous corner lobby bar with it‘s Nevsky view. Their fitness centre includes Canadian wood sauna and jacuzzi. There are ample conference and boardroom facilities. Q164 rooms (Room prices start at 6,900Rbl). Extra bed 1,770Rbl. Breakfast 1,300Rbl. PTHAUFGKDW hhhhh
Sokos Hotel Palace Bridge C-2, Birzhevoy per. 4, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 00, www. sokoshotels.com. The gorgeous Palace Bridge Hotel is a cross between a slick city warehouse conversion and palatial hotel. Exposed brickwork surrounds the spacious skylight lobby with two levels and marble grey metal walkways reaching from the lobby to the Sevilla restaurant in the brick tower. The downstairs lobby holds the entrance to the pride of the hotel, their Spa and Wellness world. Calming and comfortable with thick mattresses and soft furnishings, the rooms are crisp and bright with chaise-lounges, flat screen tvs and glass bathrooms doors. Q324 rooms (Room prices start at 5,900Rbl). PTHA6UFLGKDCwW hhhhh Taleon Imperial Hotel D-3, Nevsky pr. 15, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 99 11, www.taleonimperialhotel.com. Possibly the best-looking hotel in St. Petersburg, the Taleon Imperial also enjoys a stunning location on the corner of Nevsky pr. and Moika. No expense has been spared in the restoration of this 18th-century mansion, and the results are often jaw-dropping. Luxury and refinement are the watchwords here: the spacious rooms are impeccably decorated and equipped, and the Emperor and Empress suites have to be seen to be believed. On the top floor, there‘s a spa with summer terrace and wonderful views over the city. In addition to Griboedov, the hotel‘s Taleon restaurant does a reasonably priced Sunday brunch while the Victoria restaurant offers a business lunch. Q89 rooms (Room prices start at 13,000Rbl). Extra bed 2,800Rbl. Breakfast 1,750Rbl. PTHAUFLGBKDCW hhhhh W St. Petersburg D-3, Voznesensky pr. 6, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 610 6161, www.wstpetersburg. com. Impressive as the grey granite facade is, guests are in for a sumptuous surprise when they enter into a thoroughly contemporary interior designed down to the last detail. Not merely a lobby, their Living Room encourages mingling around the fireplace to the sounds of the hippest music. Sophisticated dining in miX restaurant and signature cockst-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
tails at the rooftop bar are destinations unto themselves with views of St. Isaac’s Cathedral and the Neva. Bliss Spa pampers with a twist, while the Sweat fitness centre and Wet pool area are gleaming temples for body worship. Meeting spaces contain state-of-the-art technology along with unique sensory devices to keep ideas flowing. Each room wows with their signature W bed, designer decor and ultra-plush amenities. Q137 rooms (Room prices start at 9,500Rbl). Breakfast 1,500Rbl., incl. depending on a room type. PTHA6UFGKDCwW hhhhh
4 Stars Ambassador D-3, Pr. Rimskogo-Korsakova 5-7, MSen-
naya pl., tel. (+7) 812 331 88 44, www.ambassadorhotel.ru. This sophisticated hotel is in a beautiful and ancient district of the city, near to the bustling old Haymarket (Sennaya pl). Rooms are spacious with tall windows, bright red carpets and large flat screen TVs. Sparkling chandeliers, a trendy bar and the classic fine-dining Ambassador restaurant all greet you in the lobby. In fact the hotel has numerous facilities including a tour agency and a 16m pool and juice bar! Q255 rooms (Room prices start at 7,300Rbl). Breakfast 750Rbl. PHAUFLGKDCW hhhh
AZIMUT Hotel Saint Petersburg C-4, Lermontovsky pr. 43/1, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 740 26 40, www. azimuthotels.com. This hotel is right on the banks of the Fontanka river, with many of the rooms overlooking the impressive Troitsky Cathedral. More than 1000 rooms are available over 18 floors with 318 of them having been recently fully renovated into SMART Deluxe rooms. This is the tallest building in this part of the city and shortly (in November) the new Sky Bar will be re-opened with the most amazing panoramic views of St. Petersburg, supported with a modern design and conference spaces. They have a wonderful breakfast and the restaurant serves, among others, great pizza‘s as well. Q1037 rooms (Room prices start at 2,400Rbl). HALGKW hhhh Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Center West
Pushkin Hotel C-4, Nab. kan. Griboedova 166 (entrance via Kanonerskaya ul. 33), MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 610 50 00, www.courtyardstpetersburgpushkin.ru. This business-focused hotel has a whole floor of conference space and excellent facilities for business travellers. The 273 rooms, including five suites and one wedding suite, are comfortable and well-equipped. Downstairs there is a large lobby (which has free WiFi), a bar and two restaurants; one of them, the reasonably priced Bierstube, even brews four sorts of beer. There‘s also a small gym on the third floor. Ten minutes walk from the Mariinsky Theatre, the hotel enjoys a quiet location on Kanal Griboedova (shuttle buses to Sennaya pl.). Q273 rooms (Room prices start at 3,800Rbl). Breakfast (850 Rbl) and VAT are not included. PTHAUFLGKW hhhh Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Vasilievsky
C-2, VO, 2-ya liniya 61/30 A, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 40 11, www.courtyardsaintpetersburg.ru. Situated on the quiet banks of the Malaya Neva this 214 room hotel is aimed firmly at the business traveller. With eight conference rooms, including the massive atrium assembly room, and enormous desks in every room even the most workaholic guest is well-catered for. The rooms and beds themselves are also generously sized and decorated in a simple yet warm muted gold and purple scheme. There’s a light and airy Russian/French restaurant with views to the river, as well as a slinkier lobby bar for later on. Q214 rooms (Room prices start at 4,500Rbl). Breakfast (985Rbl) not included in Deluxe/Studio rates. PTHAUFLGKW hhhh
August - September 2013
hotels Ask the Concierge My name is Natalia Shilenok. I graduated from the Herzen State Pedagogical University, in the Department of Foreign Languages. After my studies, I spent a couple of years teaching English in the College of Tourism, and I also worked for the Viking River Cruises company. This work experience made me even more interested in the hospitality business. As a result, I started working in the newly opened Renaissance St. Petersburg Baltic Hotel. Currently, I’m working as a concierge in the W St. Petersburg Hotel. What does it take to be a good concierge? To me, a concierge is not just a person who knows the city and makes dinner, spa or limo reservations. The perfect concierge anticipates the guest’s needs and make them feel special. You can literally make dreams come true, from knowing the secret word to get into a club, to being able to get a guest into a fully booked restaurant by knowing the owner. Our role is to find and create solutions to different guests’ problems and requests. It is essential to be punctual, enthusiastic, and effective, and to always keep promises while interacting with guests. You must always have up-to-date information about local life and events, and to establish and maintain contacts with city vendors. What would you advise tourists to do and see in St Petersburg in August and September? Usually it is still warm until September in St. Petersburg, so I would recommend visiting the summer residences of the Tsars, such as Pushkin and Pavlovsk, especially as they are not as crowded as they are in June and July. The charming park of Pavlovsk, or the magnificent golden trees and numerous ponds and cosy paths of Catherine’s and Alexandrovsky gardens, are great places to stretch your legs. How is the hospitality industry improving in Russia? During the last decade, new hospitality institutes and faculties have been opened. The students have more opportunities to travel, to learn something new and spend time in hospitality enterprises. As a result, the level of service has changed greatly. The amount of tourists visiting our country is increasing every year. We can provide a higher quality of service to our guests and satisfy even the most demanding party. What would you recommend to tourists for a truly Russian experience? I would recommend taking a river cruise from St. Petersburg to Moscow. Along the way, you can enjoy the beauty of northern nature, as well as discover ancient towns, such as Uglich, Kizhi, with its numerous churches, and the unique Russian village of Mandrogi, where you can learn about native crafts, and drink herbal tea from a samovar. Another option for young and adventurous types is to walk on the roofs of St. Petersburg. Tourists will have the opportunity to see the historical city from a different angle, visit ancient courtyards, and feel the Russian soul of St. Petersburg.
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
hotels Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg Airport Startovaya ul. 6, bldg. A, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 240 42 00, www.cpairport.ru. Situated next to the international terminal of Pulkovo airport, this is the city‘s first airport hotel. A modern design on the building‘s facade includes quirky windows in the guest rooms, designed for watching planes take off, a huge bright lobby and dining areas plus large and flexible conference room space. There‘s a spa and fitness area with a Russian banya for post-flight relaxation and the hotel runs a free shuttle bus service between the hotel and the city centre and between the two airport terminals. Q294 rooms (Room prices start at 3,500Rbl). Extra bed 1,770Rbl. VAT and breakfast (850Rbl) are not included. PTHAUFLGBKDW hhhh Novotel St. Petersburg Centre E-3, Ul. Mayakovsk-
ogo 3A, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 11 88, www.accorhotels.com/5679. Centrally located just off Nevsky pr, Novotel belongs to the Accor chain of hotels and offers a breath of fresh air in both style and manner to the St. Petersburg hotel market. The exterior is a modern rendition of the tower of Pisa and the Colosseum and the interior is modern and bright. There is a stylish cafe and restaurant adjacent to the lobby. The rooms are modern, and comfortable. The hotel is equipped with a number of state-of-the-art conference rooms and a fitness centre. Q233 rooms (Room prices start at 3,900Rbl). Extra bed 800Rbl. Breakfast 850Rbl. PTHA6UFLGKDW hhhh
Park Inn by Radisson Nevsky St. Petersburg E-3,
Nevsky pr. 89, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 406 73 10, www.parkinn.com/hotel-stpetersburg. Facing onto Nevsky and within a stone’s throw of Moskovsky railway station, you couldn’t dream of a more practical location than this well-designed hotel. Despite its central location the noise of the city is inaudible and rooms are all brightly and comfortably up to the Park Inn standard. The hub of the hotel is the airy Paulaner restaurant, which bustles at all times of day and is smartly spread over two levels with views to Nevsky and plenty of light coming through the delightful atrium. Q269 rooms (Room prices start at 4,600Rbl). Extra bed 1,500Rbl. PTHAUFLGKW hhhh
Radisson Sonya Hotel E-2, Liteiny pr. 5/19, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 406 00 00, www.radisson.ru/ sonyahotel-stpetersburg. The Radisson Sonya hotel looks like something from another planet compared to some of the other more standard upmarket business class hotels in the city. It positively screams fashion and thoughtfulness. Not one detail is out of place, from the state-of-the-art bathrooms to the groovy lighting and the wild Swedish designer wallpaper. Themed around Dostoevsky’s novel Crime and Punishment, subtle references to the book are everywhere from the carpet and furniture to the Russian restaurant. The huge glass covered courtyard with glass fronted kitchen is stunning. Q173 rooms (Room prices start at 4,500Rbl). Extra bed 2,200Rbl, Breakfast 920Rbl. PTHA6UFGKDW hhhh Sokos Hotel Olympia Garden D-4, Bataisky per. 3a, MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 70, www.sokoshotels.fi. For the seasoned business traveler looking for a hotel that does things right, the Olympia Garden is a breath of fresh air. It has everything you could want. Thick curtains, flat-screen tvs and sleek Finnish furniture complete the small but functional rooms. The mattresses were even designed using NASA technology. The size difference between standard and superior rooms is negligible, so if traveling alone the standard will suffice. There are multiple conference rooms, holding up to 350 people, and free wifi and laptop rentals. Q348 rooms (Room prices start at 4,300Rbl). Extra bed 1,000Rbl. PTHA6UFLGBKDW hhhh st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
Sokos Hotel Vasilievsky C-3, 8-ya Liniya 11-13, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 90, www. sokoshotels.com. The third Sokos hotel in St. Petersburg brings yet more Finnish style and sophistication to the city. The rooms are comfortable with stylish contemporary interiors and the usual mod-cons. In the hotel you‘ll find the wonderful 1930s-inspired restaurant Repin Lounge and an Irish-pub style bar. Situated on the older side of Vasilievsky Island, it‘s good for those interested in sightseeing. Q255 rooms (Room prices start at 3,900Rbl). Extra bed 1,000Rbl. PTHA6UFLGBKDW hhhh Trezzini Palace Hotel C-3, Universitetskaya nab. 21,
MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 313 66 22, www. trezzinipalace.com. The newly opened Trezzini Palace Hotel, on the banks of the river Neva, is best described as a luxury, boutique hotel in a historic setting. It was built in 1723 by and for the famous Italian architect himself, who gave St. Petersburg some of its most famous buildings, such as the Peter & Paul Fortress and the red University building, not far from the hotel on Vasilevsky Island. The rooms are decorated with wooden flooring, marble columns and come with all the modern amenities you would expect. The entrance, complete with a glass lift, is quite spectacular. Some of the rooms have beautiful views over the river and St. Isaac Cathedral. Q21 rooms (Prices start at 20,000Rbl). PTAULKW
3 Stars Cronwell Inn Stremyannaya E-3, Ul. Stremyannaya
18, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 406 04 50, www. stremyannaya-hotel.com. Just behind Nevsky Prospect in historic Stremyannaya street, Cronwell Inn Hotel prides itself in the traditional hotel experience. There are ‚5 o‘clock tea‘ club functions and a Stremyannaya mini museum complete with costumes. Superior rooms are spacious, clean, soft and adequately furnished including personal safes and flat screen televisions. Rooms differ only in size and luckily the amusing art over the headboards appears as standard throughout. Q49 rooms (Room prices start at 2,800Rbl). Extra bed from 1,000. PTHALGKW hhh
IBIS St. Petersburg Centre E-3, Ligovsky pr. 54, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 622 01 00, www.ibishotel. com/6157. Smart and clean with the appearance of an upmarket hotel, Ibis is marketed for those in search of reasonably priced accommodation, leisure travellers and business people. With a central location, brand spanking new decor, international standard service levels and a restaurant downstairs, this is a great option at very reasonable rates. Q221 rooms (Room prices start at 2,900Rbl). Extra bed 1,800Rbl only for suites. Breakfast not included (480 Rbl). PHAULGKW hhh Red Stars Hotel C-3, Nab. reky Pryazhki 30, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 640 40 00, www.red-stars-hotel.ru. A fantastically contemporary addition to the market, Red Stars has done up their hotel with signature red dominating the decor from doors to bathroom tiles, while the corridors and lobby walls are adorned with graffiti courtesy of local artists. At very reasonable rates, within 15 minutes walk to the Mariinsky theatre or 15 minutes by transport to Nevsky pr., this makes an ideal option for the independent traveler, while their modest business centre will accommodate gatherings of up to 15 people. Q54 rooms (Room prices start at 3,400Rbl). PTHAULGKW hhhh
U menya zabranirovan nomer I have a reservation st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
Hostels Cubahostel C-2, Ul. Kazanskaya 5, 3rd floor, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 921 71 15, www.cubahostel.ru. With an almost unbeatable location just behind Kazan Cathedral, Cubahostel is an ideal budget option. The fourteen rooms each sleep from two to ten people. Upstairs there‘s a recently upgraded communal kitchen, though guests also get special offers including a welcome drink at Atelierbar a few minutes‘ walk away. The staff organise events including regular banya trips, and can also hook guests up with walking and cycling tours. Enter to the right of the old-fashioned red British phone box, press 41 at the downstairs intercom. Linen included. Q15 rooms (Room prices start at 490Rbl). PNGW Rainbow Hostel C-3, Ul. Dostoevskogo 36, lit.A,
8-H, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 572 21 10, www. rainbow-hostel.ru. Colourful and bright hostel located in a historic building in one of the most interesting side streets in this fascinating area of the city. All the dorm rooms have high ceilings which are distinctive of such historic buildings and are painting in rainbow bright colours (hence the hostel‘s names). Thoughtful extras include plenty of computers (with web cams), free wifi, a large kitchen with a long table for social breakfasts, lockers and a safe and airport/train station transfers for a small fee. Be sure to ask about city tours as they will eagerly find you a guide to cater to any specialist interest, whether group or individual. Q (Room prices start at 400Rbl). PTAR6LGBW
Les Clefs’ d’Or Back in the bad old days, a Russian concierge would probably be considered simply as glorified security guard, checking the comings and goings of guests and offering little in terms of local knowledge and professional expertise. Thankfully those days have long since passed and nowadays the role of concierge is one taken as seriously in Russia as in any other western country. In fact numerous St. Petersburg hotels now have concierges who are members of the prestigious professional association Les Clefs’ d’Or which was founded in France in 1929. Look out for members of staff wearing the distinctive golden keys badge on their lapel in places such as Taleon, Grand Hotel Europe, Astoria, Angleterre and Corinthia. These highly qualified concierges are there to make your stay as special and comfortable as possible and you can expect them to be a fountain of knowledge about everything - they can book tickets and make reservations for you, recommend restaurants, organise unique excursions or simply help you find a good tailor. St. Petersburg In Your Pocket is very happy to be partners with Les Clefs’ d’Or.
August - September 2013
Restaurants St. Petersburg is brimming with colourful, innovative and fun restaurants serving everything from traditional Russian to nouvelle cuisine. To be sure of getting a table, make sure to book in advance. Be aware that many restaurants morph into bars and clubs in the later hours of the evening, so make early reservations if you want some peace and quiet. Tip for good service only - 10% is considered fair. Also remember to check your bill to see if they already included service. Don’t hesitate to politely ask for all of your change back, if the establishment automatically pockets whatever amount you hand them for the bill. Our price guide is based on the average price of a main course: € - 0 - 400Rbl €€ 400 - 800Rbl €€€ 800 - 1,200Rbl €€€€ 1,200Rbl plus
Russian and Ukrainian Chekhov D-1, Ul. Petropavlovskaya 4, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 234 45 11. This charming dining venue allows you to step into a Russian country house at the beginning of the nineteenth century, just as if you were entering into the world of author Anton Chekhov. Recreating the traditional delicacies from recipes of that time, you can enjoy a sumptutous meal as a piano player serenades the room. The waitresses rustle past in their long gowns serving up a range of carefully presented, wholly satisfying dishes. Popular with Russians and foreigners alike, reservations are recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTAES Cococo E-2, Ul. Nekrasova 8, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 579 00 16, www.kokoko.spb.ru. Founded by Sergey Shnurov, the previous frontman of the ska-punk band Leningrad, this restaurant is just a short walk from the Nevsky Prospect and worth the small detour. Here you can try a wide variety of real Russian cuisine, which is made using local farm products, as well as homemade fruit drinks (in interesting flavours, such as pumpkin), lemonade, and Kombucha. The meals are well presented, and very wholesome, including dishes such as chicken curry with millet porridge. The restaurant is underground, with low ceilings and a very cosy and relaxed atmosphere. The staff are helpful, offering alternatives if something isn’t available, and you can request an English version of the menu. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €€. PASW Koleso D-3, Voznesensky pr. 2, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 21 25. Step down into the warm and cosy cave that is Koleso and get settled in for an evening of old Slavic comfort. Iron candelabras give the room a medieval glow, while the crisp creamy tablecloths lend things a romantic touch. The menu is truly Slavic and will satisfy anyone looking for a good fill of wholesome Russian food. Meat is king and there is a broad choice of succulent meaty cuts as well as delicacies such as tongue and liver to be found in the extensive menu. The waitstaff are professional and know the menu well and will be happy to guide you through some of the region‘s more unusual dishes. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTASW
Symbol Key P E T G B V
Air conditioning Live music Child friendly Non-smoking areas Outside seating Home delivery
A Credit cards accepted S Take away U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking W Wi-Fi connection M Nearest metro station
August - September 2013
Restaurants Levin D-3, Mal. Morskaya ul. 21, MAdmiralteiskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 612 19 66, www.levins.me. Conveniently located not far from Nevsky on Malaya Morskaya, Levin is a small restaurant with a homey atmosphere. Their menu has a selection of moderately-priced homemade Russian dishes and even the pickiest of eaters will be able to find something familiar and satisfying. They are very accomdating to foreign guests, and have a bilingual menu and free wifi. The service is among the fastest you’ll find in St. Petersburg - you’re not going to waste fifteen minutes waiting for someone to bring you a menu. It’s not usually very busy or loud, so it’s a good place to relax and have a nice meal in a homey setting. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAGSW
Mari Vanna C-1, Ul. Lenina 18, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 53 59, www.marivanna.ru. Bookings for this popular restaurant are essential as the idea is that you are eating as if at a friend’s house - and what kind of guest would turn up unexpected? With a reservation safely made the door to the flat will be unlocked for you and you’ll be invited in to dine on traditional Russian home food such as borshch, pelmeni and pirogi in a cute little place designed to look like an old (but unbroken) Russian flat. The food itself is not mind-blowing, just plain good and filling, but the service and homely atmosphere, complete with toys and crayons for the kids, make this a thoroughly enjoyable experience. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTAVGSW NEP D-3, Nab. reky Moiky 37, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 75 91, www.neprestoran.ru. NEP is a delightful cabaret den which pays glorious homage to the sultry swinging 1920s. The atmosphere is cosy and warm, softly lit with candles so you can settle back, order your meal and be enthralled by the musicians with their charming, personality packed star singer. They offer an array of delicious fish and meat dishes, all exquisitely presented and served. If you’re sitting close to the performers, it is likely you’ll find yourself part of the night’s entertainment. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Mon, Tue 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PAEBSW
Tsar D-3, Sadovaya ul. 12, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 640 19 00, www.tsar-project.ru. Tsar, as its name suggests, sets out to make its guests feel like real Russian royalty. Drinks are served in fine crystal glasses, old portraits of noblemen cover the walls and even the toilets are encased inside giant leather-lined thrones. The Russian cuisine on offer is first rate – no doubt Nicholas II himself would have loved the Pozharskaya cutlet a la Pushkin. The staff, food and atmosphere here is a real lesson in imperial elegance. Q Open 08:00 until last guest, Sat, Sun 12:00 until last guest. Kitchen open till 23:30. €€€. PTALESW
Asian and Indian Chin Chin Cafe C-2, Mytninskaya nab. 3, MSport-
ivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 232 10 42, www.chin-chin-cafe. ru. The toast „chin-chin“ simply means cheers, but actually it is the Chinese term of salutation. Chin Chin Café is St. Petersburg’s premier destination for haute Asian cuisine. The menu features ingredients from around the world, prepared with Asian techniques and spices. They prepare a great Tom Yum, nice vegetable dishes and of course a famous Peking Duck. If you are a fan of seafood they also have a big selection of lovely fish dishes. The restaurant features a full bar with a wide selection of wines, liquor, beer (they also offer Singha Thai beer!) and cocktails of course. Like the cuisine, the restaurant exhibits a homely yet sophisticated atmosphere where guests can enjoy their meals in an unhurried setting and with live music playing at night. Q €€€. PTAESW
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Restaurants Chopsticks D-3, Grand Hotel Europe, Mikhailovskaya
ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 66 38, www. grandhoteleurope.com. The atmosphere is chic, the service is exemplary and the interior divine. The food is exquisitely prepared authentic Chinese but it is the atmosphere and service which is the real drawcard. You will be so well looked after, you may feel that a wave of relaxation washes over you like a breeze from the South China Sea. QOpen 12:00 23:00. €€€. PTALSW
Tandoor D-3, Admiralteisky pr. 10, MAdmiralteiskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 312 38 86, www.tandoor-spb.ru. Situated mere steps from St. Isaac’s cathedral, Tandoor is about as far away from bland Russian food as you can get. For 19 years now they’ve been serving up real, authentic Indian fare and have won numerous ‘best restaurant’ prizes for their efforts too. They have all the usual favourites so you can try a couple and share amongst your buddies, whilst mopping up every last dollop of sauce with the thick naan bread. With two rooms, this place is ideal for a large group, much like when you see the city’s Indian community trooping in for their banquets. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTALEGSW
Tandoori Nights D-3, Voznesensky pr. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 87 72, www.tandoorinightsspb. com. There are only a few Indian restaurants in the whole city and this one offers more than just curry - for Indian style fine-dining, this is a great place to go. The menu is original and mouth-watering, especially the clay-oven Tandoorispecialities. When cooked here, the meat acquires a delicious flavour and specific tenderness. The soft naan breads are also highly recommended - especially the peshwari naan. From now on you can also try a truly authentic Indian beer Kingfisher, Indian Rum and 18 types of tea. There‘s plenty of options for vegetarians too and every guest with an In Your Pocket guide gets a 10% discount on the bill. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. €€. PALVSW TAO D-2, Konyushennaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)
812 983 57 57, www.taorestaurant.ru. TAO is a hip, modern, Asian oasis in the very centre of the city. We still remember the days this square was nothing but a worn-out, abandoned place, but it has turned into a heaven for foodies, and we can say that the TAO restaurant is amongst the finest. The interior, where chic Asia meets Russia, is impressive notice the enormous wooden carved doors in the windows, they are amazing. They have not forgotten to focus on the food as well. We recommend trying their beef in black pepper sauce, which is something of a small hit here, and also their famous wasabi prawns. The bar is well-stocked, so don’t be afraid to ask the waiters to mix you something special, as they know what they are doing. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. €€€. PALESW
Umao C-3, Konnogvardeisky bul. 11, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 33 15, www.umaocafe.ru. This cosy Pan-Asian café, situated very close to St. Isaac’s Cathedral, offers good Asian food and restful atmosphere. Wooden furniture combined with modern elements such as original transparent chairs fill gives it an airy, clean-cut feel. Simplicity – that’s the right word to describe the interior of the café – nothing distracts your attention here. The group of ambitious young people who created this café first travelled around Asia in order to collect the best recipes. And they definitely succeeded – the café‘s menu offers a good variety of Chinese, Vietnamese and Thai meals combining excellent seafood, super fresh vegetables and delicious sauces. Try their tempting main courses or salads with mouth-watering toppings. We‘re sure you won’t regret it! QOpen 11:00 23:00. €. PTAVGSW st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
Beer Restaurants Baltika Brew D-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 3/5, MAdmiral-
teiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 921 09 12, www.baltika-brew. ru. Located in a monolithic example of Soviet neoclassicism and just a stone’s throw from Palace Square and the Hermitage, there’s not much that’s “micro” about this brew restaurant. The space is vast, with towering ceilings and an open floorplan that could lead to some interesting discussions with fellow beer afficianados or just make you feel a bit lost. They feature live music at the weekends and while everything on the menu is delicious, we recommend the Indian dishes, especially the lamb samosas and curry. Cavernous or not, the friendly service, tasty pints and gorgeous food will keep us coming back for more. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 until last guest. €€. PTAESW
Bierstube C-4, Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Center West Pushkin Hotel, Nab. kan. Griboedova 166 (entrance via Kanonerskaya ul. 33), MSennaya Pl., tel. (+7) 812 610 50 00, www.bier-stube.ru. With their own brewery the Marriott’s Bierstube restaurant is a good place to start if you are looking for some homebrewed hoppy stuff. Choose from a seat in the bright glass covered courtyard balcony or tuck yourselves in inside the wood and stucco countryside house themed centre of the restaurant. Either way be sure to load up on beer snacks like calmari and fried cheese sticks before the main events, Bavarian and Czech cuisine inspired meaty heavyweights, arrive. The fact that it is a good walk down the canal from the metro station means you have the chance to walk of all the calories after. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PTAULSW Dickens D-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 108, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 702 62 63, www.dickensrest.ru. This British island near the Fontanka river has beer from all around the world, including more than ten on tap, and a lot of superior whiskys. The snacks and food are good too (the chicken wings are our favourites) and come in huge portions. Don’t forget to try the breakfast here - it‘s a great hangover cure and real authentic British. Dickens has an authentic pub atmosphere, which is as close to a real British pub that you‘ll find in Russia and also features a fine dining restaurant on the second floor. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. PASW Gastronomic Pub Brugge C-2, Nab. Makarova 22,
MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 600 23 90, www. inbrugge.ru. This new Gastronomic pub is the place for people who like an authentic atmosphere and, naturally, original cuisine! The founders of this pub were inspired by the idea that the Belgians appreciate beer as much as the French admire their wine, so they tried to collect the best types of the most popular beverages and, as tradition dictates, they serve each kind of beer in a different glass! You can choose from almost 50 types of traditional Belgian beer. They also broadcast football matches, which is the perfect accompaniment to friendly meetings and the best beer. Belgian meals, which combine the simplicity of traditional burger cooking with the delicacy of French cuisine, are made according to the best recipes chosen in Brussels or Antwerp. Try their duck with stewed quinoa, mushrooms and blueberry - it‘s a real masterpiece! QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALESW
Dva Piva Pazhalusta! – Two beers please! st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
August - September 2013
Restaurants Egg in Egg
Restaurants Caucasian and Central Asian Baklazhan E-3, Galeria Shopping Centre, Ligovsky pr.
30, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. +7 (812) 677 73 72, www.baklazhan.net. The open kitchen concept combined with beige rusticism seems to be mode du jour for Ginza Project. The twist at Baklazhan (Aubergine) are the touches of deep purple to the decor, wine bottles lining the walls and a market stall of sorts selling fruits and nuts near the entrance. The food itself is standard Georgian fare with a few more innovative dishes. Stick with baked goods, such as their stuffed samsas, khachapuri and the like and you‘ll be treated to piping hot goodness that‘ll stick to your bones. Q Open 10:00 until last guest. €. PTALVESW
Djigiteria C-2, Pr. Dobrolyubova 16, MSportivnaya, tel.
The signature dish at the Caviar Bar & Restaurant is the intriguingly titled Egg in Egg, which blends hen’s eggs with sturgeon’s roe – or, more precisely, consists of truffle-flavoured scrambled egg, topped with Ossetra caviar and assembled elegantly in a shot glass of sea salt. Caviar is a rare delicacy. It refers to the roe extracted from certain types of sturgeon, fish who can live for over 100 years and who were around 200 million years ago with the dinosaurs. There are references to caviar throughout history. The Persians believed it gave them energy. Batu Khan (grandson of Genghis) is said to have enjoyed it in the 13th century, and Shakespeare alluded to it in ‘Hamlet’ in the 1600s. Russian caviar enjoyed a European resurgence in the 1920s, when Sézar Ritz put it on the menu at his famous Paris hotel, perhaps in deference to the Russians fleeing the Bolshevik Revolution.
Cafes and Coffee houses Miracle D-2, Moshkov per. 4 (corner of Dvortsovaya nab. 20), MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 13 14. Miracle is a unique ‘co-working’ destination, great for those looking to sit and get down to some work in a quiet and unobtrusive atmosphere. It costs 100Rbl an hour to hang out and you can help yourself to as much of their complimentary teas as you want. The delightful interior, which is entirely handmade, is as quirky and bohemian as the owners and if you drop by in the evenings they will be happy to let you jam with them on their many musical instruments or get involved in creative events such as poetry readings. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00. €. PEGW Mitte cafe E-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 27, MDostoevskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 416 14 16. The windows, the sills of which also serve as seats, are flung wide open and the smell of coffee wafts out into the street. Cafe Mitte does sophisticated hipster beautifully. The décor simple yet effective; it‘s the people who make this place. They have a small but excellent collection of cakes, and the staff are friendly and helpful. Come back in the evening for a glass of wine and antipasti and a relaxed but buzzing atmosphere. Q Open 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 until last guest. €. PTGSW
Smalldouble D-3, Kazanskaya ul. 26, MSennaya pl.,
tel. (+7) 812 932 82 17. This tiny, non-smoking coffee shop has a huge selection of coffees that can be made for you using various preparation methods as you wish. They also have a large selection of teas, homemade pastries, candies, and three types of sandwiches served on freshly-baked ciabatta bread. The friendly atmosphere is enhanced by its open format where customers can observe and even chat with the cooks while they are preparing your food. Q Open 08:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. €. PAGSW
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
(+7) 812 677 36 99, www.gigiteria.ru. The restaurant‘s name is a play on the old word Gigit, meaning „young fellow“ or „macho“, plus the ending of your usual pizzeria, cafeteria. The menu is not too large, but boasts all that you‘d expect from the South Caucasian kitchen. Most importantly, although the portions seem somewhat small, the food tastes really good and fresh. If you bring your little ones there‘s a small play room for them and a nanny at weekends. It is located a short walk from the Peter & Paul fortress, just next to the Zenit soccer stadium and inside a new business centre, but don‘t let that put you off: once inside, it‘s a real treat. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTASW
Khochu Kharcho D-3, Sadovaya ul. 39/41, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 310 32 36, www.hochuharcho.com. “Khachu Kharcho!” means “I want Kharcho”! - kharcho being a traditional Georgian stew containing mutton/lamb, vegetables, rice and a highly spiced bouillon. Here they serve three different types of the dish and it is definitely worth trying as a warm and filling main course. This is not just a Georgian restaurant, it`s a Megrelian restaurant and there is a big difference. Megrelia is a historic province in the western part of Georgia where walnuts feature prominently in the cooking and they like their food spicy. Q Open 24hrs. €€. PTALVESW
Freeman‘s D-3, Kazanskaya ul. 8, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)
812 312 05 40, www.freemans.su. They say good things come in small packages, and this certainly is the case at this fine-dining restaurant near Kazan Cathedral. Freeman‘s serves interesting flavour combinations (try the scallops with chocolate and hazelnut) with a touch of finesse. The portion sizes are small, though, so go with the intention of getting at least two courses. The restaurant is located opposite a pole dancing club and consequently the table in the window is always reserved; however the restaurant itself feels very classy. Ask to sit downstairs for a cosier atmosphere. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. €€. PTASW
Fine dining Astoria Café D-3, Hotel Astoria, Bol. Morskaya ul. 39,
MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 58 15, www. thehotelastoria.com. Breathe history while dining at the newly opened, freshly decorated Astoria Cafe. The hotel in which this restaurant is located has seen over a century of history. This history can be felt inside, and not just through the old pictures of dancers of the famous Mariinsky theatre. The modern interior and cuisine, with a mix of trendy recipes and traditional Russian dishes, makes for a perfect and relaxed lunch or dinner after roaming the city. We recommend their signature dishes, especially their ‘Pavlova’ dessert, which is named after the famous ballerina. It is made from meringue, and is so light that it can be enjoyed after any amount of food. Sit near the windows to enjoy the view of the majestic St. Isaac’s Cathedral. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PTALW
Sukhoe - Dry Sladkoe - Sweet
Caviar Bar and Restaurant D-3, Grand Hotel Europe,
Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 66 22, www.grandhoteleurope.com. Cool marble envelops the intimate dining space atop the first tier of the Grand Hotel Europe’s elegant staircase, but the impeccable service is as warm as the flickering candles. The Caviar Bar and Restaurant subtly and unquestioningly proves that the culinary arts also have a home in Russia. Not surprisingly, caviar makes many appearances on the menu, but never one that is out of place. You can try the Kamchatka crab in champagne sauce, or the delicious Beef Stroganoff (made according to the recipe of Baroness Stroganoff herself), but only after touring your way around the heavenly hors d’oeuvres, while sampling the vodka recommended by the city’s only vodka sommelier. The starter, ‘Na Zdorovye’ (To Your Health) is one way to get acquainted with some of the 50 unique vodkas they have on offer. Did we mention their famous signature dish, the Egg in Egg (see box) or the live light music that accompanies you throughout the evening? Pay a visit, and present the inside cover of this issue to receive a complimentary bottle of wine. You won’t regret it!QOpen 17:00 - 23:00. €€€€. PALEW
L‘Europe D-3, Grand Hotel Europe, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7,
MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 66 30, www.grandhoteleurope.com. Eating in this historic restaurant is an experience to be savoured. The service is in a class of its own, the interiors are stunning, especially the original art deco stained glass windows and ceiling, and all the dishes are made with the absolute finest ingredients available. We especially recommend visiting on Fridays, when a chamber orchestra and ballet dancers perform Tchaikovsky, or Saturdays when there is dancing for couples. Q Open 07:00 - 23:00. Tchaikovsky Evenings on Fridays 19:00 23:00, Jazz Evenings on Saturdays 19:30 - 23:15, Sunday Jazz Brunch 13:00 - 16:30. €€€€. PTALEW
Mamalyga D-3, Kazanskaya ul. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 82 87, www.mamaliga-mamaliga.com. Two steps from Nevsky one can find all kinds of food from the region: Georgian, Imeretian, Armenian, Adzharian, Megrelian, and the cuisines of Swaneti and Guria, thus one can try the various cuisines of the Caucasus here in peace without any of the local antagonisms. Authenticity is a word that the owners use quite often to describe their food and it comes through in the food that is prepared by local cooks (meaning local from there). The menu features a mix of well-spiced (the food is not watered down for local consumption) shashlyks, salads, khachapuris, and pretty much anything else you could want from the South Caucasus. Q Open 12:00 until last guest. €€. PTALVSW
European Dekabrist C-3, Ul. Yakubovicha 2, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 921 912 18 91. This little café-bar-restaurant near St. Isaac‘s Cathedral serves highly stylised (and highly tasty) takes on classic dishes, very reasonably priced coffees, and an impressive selection of freshly squeezed fruit juices. The laid-back atmosphere and quirky interior are satisfyingly juxtaposed with the impeccable presentation and clever flavour combinations in the food. The menu is small, just a single A4 sheet, but each dish on the menu has been clearly thought out and we found ourselves gaping not only at our own plates, but everyone else’s! And another plus: they serve Floris Chocolate beer. Definitely worth a try if you haven‘t already. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. €. PASW st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
August - September 2013
Restaurants International Arka D-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 27, MNevsky pr., tel.
(+7) 812 240 24 96, www.arka.spb.ru. When you walk into Arka you leave all the dirt and noise of city life behind you. The soft lighting, exposed brick wall and sky-lights create a chic, yet cozy ambience where you can sit and forget about life for a while. A 13-meter bar and an impressive selection of unusual cocktails make it an ideal place to meet up with friends or business partners for after-work, or pre-going out drinks. The menu includes a grill section with sets that are meant to be shared, as well as other traditional dishes prepared in an untraditional way, like the cappuccino mushroom cream soup. The prices are reasonable compared to similar high-class bars and you are guaranteed to leave with a good impression. QOpen 09:00 - 06:00. €€. PTAESW
Buddha-Bar F-3, Sinopskaya nab. 78, MPl. Aleksandra
Nevskogo, tel. (+7) 812 318 07 07, www.buddha-bar. ru. There are branches of the glamorous Buddha-Bar brand in numerous cities around the world such as Paris, London, Monte Carlo and Dubai all of which are frequented by the A-list celebrity crowd. The Buddha-Bar restaurant brings the finest elements of the lounge-restaurant brand to Russia with a wide-ranging menu of fancy pan-Asian cuisine with French accents, an inimitable lounge music soundtrack and ultra-chic surroundings. Flashy, classy and a little bit exotic, Buddha-Bar proves popular with the cocktails crowd and fans of pan-Asian cuisine. Q Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. €€€. PAESW
Funky Kitchen C-1, PS, Bolshoy pr. 88, MPetrograds-
miX in St. Petersburg D-3, W Hotel, Voznesensky pr. 6, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 610 61 66, www. wstpetersburg.com. The first restaurant in Russia from multi-Michelin starred chef Alain Ducasse. By combining haute cuisine with contemporary design, miX fits perfectly into the surrounds of what is now one of Russia‘s hippest hotels. Service is perfect and the atmosphere is every inch as glamorous and lively as you may hope. The menu is filled with local and European dishes, all given the finest French touches by the highly presentable chefs over in the open kitchen. Q Open 07:00 - 24:00 (breakfast 07:30 - 10:30, lunch 12:00 18:00, dinner 19:00 - 24:00). €€€€. PTAEGKW Palkin E-3, Nevsky pr. 47, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812
703 53 71, www.palkin.ru. Palkin is as historic as they come, dating all the way back to 1874. Although restoration did take place, the interior is as sophisticated and tasteful as in imperial times, which all adds to the feeling that you are being treated to a meal in some rich aristocrat‘s home. The menu is bursting with luxurious foie gras, angus beef, truffles, black caviar and game moulded into historic French/Russian recipes from a bygone era. Booking is recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€€€. PTAEW
Victoria D-3, Taleon Imperial Hotel, Nevsky pr. 15,
MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 99 11, www.taleonimperialhotel.com. A conceptual menu offers the unique treat of luxurious, yet classic Russian dishes which are related to nearby landmarks - many of which are visible from the lofty terrace or floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking Nevsky prospekt and the Moika canal. The sumptuous menu gives the history of the dish as well as the site, creating a meal for both body and mind. Fine dining staples included are meat, fish and game in this royal parlour. QOpen 07:30 - 23:00. €€. PTALEW
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
kaya, tel. (+7) 812 983 08 80, www.fun-ki.com. Funky Kitchen is a new format of restaurant with an open kitchen, so that customers can watch the cooking process. The menu includes the latest food trends, including farm and eco products, vegetarian items, and Asian and Italian cuisine. The creators have also developed a ‘Balls Menu’, which is a trend that originally began in popular delicatessens in New York and London. Funky balls are a self-sufficient food: vegetarian balls of quinoa and avocado, or balls of salmon teriyaki – the imagination of the chef is unlimited. There is also an original bar list with signature cocktails. The interior of the restaurant was designed in trendy industrial vintage. Q Open 10:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. €. PAESW
Koryushka D-2, Peter and Paul Fortress 3, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 917 90 10, www.ginzaproject.ru. Koryushka is a Georgian restaurant on Zayachy Island located in the oldest part of the city - the Peter and Paul Fortress, a main tourist hotspot. The location affords great views of landmarks across the river, including the Winter Palace, and the restaurant makes the most of this, with lots of windows, and terraces, giving a spacious feel. The staff are helpful, and although the menu features fish dishes, there is also shashlik and salads on offer, as well as a good range of drinks. It is a nice restaurant to sit and enjoy the view after visiting this historic area of the city.Q Open 11:00 until last guest. €€. PTAESW Opencafe Shater D-3, Italyanskaya ul. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 943 32 00, www.opencafeshater.ru. Shater is the Russian for tent, but this is definitely more of a pavilion. Under gauzy white curtains, couches complete with throw blankets and fresh flowers host the jet-set of St. Petersburg in all their garden party finery, and the staff is everything they should be - attentive and discreet, but very friendly. There are top guest DJs and live acts, and sumptuous traditional dishes with eclectic twists throughout the menu from fusion starters to unique cocktails.Q Open 08:00 - 06:00. €€. PTALESW st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
Romeo‘s Bar and Kitchen C-3, Pr. Rimskogo-Korsakova 43, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 572 54 48, www.romeosbarandkitchen.ru. Having opened its doors in late October, Romeo’s fills a void in one of St. Petersburg’s most beautiful neighborhoods. Near the Mariinsky Theater and a number of new hotels, Romeo’s offers some of the highest quality and reasonably priced Italian food in the city (one is usually easy to find, but not both). The décor and atmosphere are relaxed, inviting guests to linger long and spend cozy evenings with their guests. A nice place to bring a date or have a family celebration (a children’s menu is available). Being a proper Italian restaurant, there is a wide assortment of fish and to mix it up a bit there is also a wide selection of Caucasian and Russian starters and mains. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALSW Soup Wine D-3, Kazanskaya ul. 24, MNevsky pr., tel.
(+7) 812 312 76 90, www.supvino.ru. Five tables with bar stools are all you will find in this sleek and agreeable diner. The menu is as small as the place itself, boasting a simple yet tasty choice of soups and salads but also a selection of fresh juices, pasta and wine and huge salads which come in bowls heaving with green leaves. Given the size and how easy it is to sit and linger listening to the operatic soundtrack, it is definitely advised to book ahead. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €. PAGSW
Teplichnye usloviya D-3, Nab. kan. Griboedova 25/3, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 56 59, www.teplichnie. ru. If you love Russian and European cooking with a minimalist interior then welcome to Teplichnye Usloviya! It has the decor of a rustic cottage in a village and is made to resemble a greenhouse in the cottage of a Soviet elite in the 1930s. This place is well known for their homemade fruit and berry compotes and the menu offers a mix of Russian and European cuisine featuring traditional Russian borsch, homemade chicken cutlets with potatoes, as well as Italian pastas, and special creations of the chef, as well as original desserts such as beet or cucumber sorbet and a cherry tree tort. They also have boardgames on offer for guests to play, as well as film screenings of classics. Q Open 11:00 until last guest, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 05:00. €. PASW Zig Zag D-3, Gorokhovaya ul. 59/92, MSennaya pl., tel.
(+7) 812 314 34 00. It’s not exactly easy to find, but once you do – you can’t help but stay to enjoy what is on offer. Entering the space feels like you’ve travelled in time machine back to the 1960’s. Zig Zag restaurant offers international meals with so cold American-Nouveau and Scandinavian accents such as smoked then grilled salmon, gin-cream sauces, pickled beet-root or even any pickles that they produce themselves. All these things are nicely introduced with the burgers or finger foods, such as deviled eggs or fried green beans which are perfect for sharing with a group of friends. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAESW
Italian Gusto F-3, Degtyarnaya ul. 1a, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 941 17 44, www.gusto-spb.ru. A classy and hip little place where local businessmen and gastrophiles come regularly to feast on excellent Italian food and good wines. In fact, many of the patrons seem to just sit down and are immediately served their favourite bottle, followed by a selection of dishes from the chef without a word being spoken to the waiters. It‘s that kind of attention, atmosphere and food. The menu looks basic but all the dishes are complex mouth-watering masterpieces which benefit from a light hand and subtle tastes. Be sure to order the bread basket, a selection of freshly baked, in-house rolls and loaves that are perfect for mopping up every last drop of sauce. Be sure to save some space for one of the homemade desserts if possible. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PTALEBSW st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
August - September 2013
Italy C-1, Bolshoy pr. PS, 58, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7)
812 900 63 33, www.italy-cafe.ru. The chef spent six years in Italy, learning the secrets of Italian cooking - and it is felt in every dish. The pasta is prepared fresh for each individual diner as you can observe with your very own eyes, courtesy of the open kitchen. In addition to traditional Italian dishes of pizza and pasta, they have surprisingly well done stir-fries or grilled fish and meat. Wash it all down with their sublime homestyle lemonade. Downstairs is the Dolci Italy bakery where, if you‘ve made the mistake of coming on an empty stomach or simply want to top off a meal you can enjoy classic Italian desserts with a cup of hot coffee or tea. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PASW
Jamie‘s Italian D-2, Konyushennaya pl. 2, MNevsky
pr., tel. (+7) 812 600 25 70, www.jamieoliver.com/italian/russia/st-petersburg. One of the world’s most popular chefs, Englishman Jamie Oliver has opened Jamie’s Italian, his first restaurant in St. Petersburg. Admirers of the legendary chef should remain satisfied: the menu offers traditional Italian dishes using recipes made by Jamie and his mentor Gennaro Сontaldo. The pasta is made from Italian flour and farm eggs, and is prepared right before your eyes, and the rustic bread is made according to original recipes, and is baked in special ovens. Note the daily specials – every day at Jamie’s Italian they cook something new with seasonal ingredients. The wine list is mainly Italian wines, and almost any wine is available by the glass. Lovers of the Italian festive atmosphere are exactly the type of people this place has in mind – it is quite noisy, with a lot of visitors and waiters, and people are hard at work in the open kitchen. Even the design of the restaurant resembles a real trattoria – the room feels spacious, light and airy, thanks to its high ceilings, something which is unusual for restaurants north of the capital. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALSW
Kvass Mmmm, what could be nicer than a fermented rye bread drink on a hot day? Whether it sounds appealing or not kvass, a traditional Russian soft drink, is the taste of Russian summer. Once the hot months arrive you’ll notice big yellow barrels full of this traditional soft drink parked on street corners throughout the city. Somewhat akin to a half-flat non-alcoholic ale it is an acquired taste, but most Russians seem to love it. Marketed as a patriotic alternative to cola this traditionally homemade drink is now available in supermarkets under brand names such as Klassik and Nikola. Kvass can also sometimes find its way into your food as in the cold summer soup okroshka made with raw vegetables, ham, boiled eggs topped off with some cold kvass.
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Restaurants Rossi’s D-3, Grand Hotel Europe, ul. Mikhailovskaya 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 66 37, www. grandhoteleurope.com. If you need to discuss delicate matters with your (business) partner and you want to sit in a luxurious place resembling a small Mediterranean castle with an excellent view to the street, then head to Rossi’s. Their Italian chef Giuseppe D’Agostino really knows his stuff and offers dishes from all over the country, from the spices of the Neapolitan region that he hails from to gnocci from the north. Service is impeccable, the wine list likewise and each generous portion of delicate but hearty pastas, antipastas and the like will leave you in gastronomic heaven. Be sure to try any of the specially prepared carpaccios, they are divine. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€€€. PTALEW Testo D-3, Grivtsova per. 5/29, MSadovaya, tel. (+7)
812 315 64 20, www.testogastronomica.ru. Pizza and pasta are what they do here in this novelty little basement bar, named after the Russian word for dough. They make their own pasta, changing the menu daily and serve up the pizza with tasty Italian style thin crusts and freshly grated parmesan. The grey and red interior and relaxed atmosphere makes it perfect for lone diners, lunchers or anyone after a snack. Beers are available on tap as well as a choice of wines. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €. PTASW
Vasilievsky Island Vasilevsky Island is one of the many islands which make up St Petersburg, and is situated across the river from the Winter Palace. Peter the Great envisioned the island as the centre of the city, and therefore it makes up a large part of the historic centre. Two of the city’s famous bridges, Palace Bridge and Blagoveshchensky Bridge, connect the island to the mainland. Two metro stations on Line 3 serve the island: Vasileostrovskaya and Primorskaya. The island is known for the Strelka (arrow) spit, which features famous landmarks, including the Old St Petersburg Stock Exchange, and two Rostral columns. It also features the city’s narrowest street, named after the famous artists Ilya Repin. However, there is more to the island; for example the former palace of Peter II, principal buildings of St Petersburg State University, the Erarta Contemporary Art Museum (the first of its kind in the city), as well as many museums, such as the Kunstkamera, and parks. The southern and eastern parts of the island are older, with buildings dating from the 18th Century, including some of the oldest in the city, whereas the western side was developed later, and consists of Soviet apartment blocks.
Lemonade E-2, Ul. Belinskogo 9, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)
812 946 82 75, www.vk.com/lemonaderoof. Lemonade is a quaint roof terrace bar which is a little hard to find, but definitely worth the search. You pay for how long you spend there (2,5Rbl a minute) rather than what you drink or eat, so feel free to try all of their flavours of lemonade – the cream soda is especially good – biscuits, fruit, and help yourself to sweets! Although there are gazebos to provide shelter, and blankets are provided should it get cold, a sunny afternoon is best to fully enjoy this relaxing place – a hidden gem in the city. They also offer vegan food, and hold live music evenings. Check out their VK page www.vk.com/lemonaderoof for more information and see their upcoming events! Q €. PEW
Ukrop E-3, Ul. Marata 23, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 946 30 36, www.cafe-ukrop.ru. This quaint vegetarian cafe is a nice place to relax and grab a healthy meal that won’t break the bank. On the first floor there is a counter where you can order already prepared food for a quick bite and on the second floor is a full-service restaurant. Its interior with books on the windowsills, green plants and waterfalls creates a refreshing atmosphere that leaves you relaxed when you leave. The friendly waiters bring complimentary mint water to each guest and explain the menu, which includes vegetarian, vegan and raw food options. And, for those of you who are artistically inclined, feel free to draw with the colored pencils that sit on each table! QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. €. PTALGSW st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
Taverna Grolle C-2, Bolshoy pr. VO 20, MVasileo-
strovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 323 62 58, www.grolle.ru. When heading to Grolle don’t expect it to resemble your usual watering-hole. Although named after the old Dutch city that is home to the famous Grolsch beer, this restaurant is definitely a notch above your average tavern. They have an excellent choice of local fresh fish on their large menu and a whopping bronze mangal (grill) where you can order fresh shashlik and the like. The huge windows give you a nice view of this upgraded area on Vasilyevsky Island and this place is a convenient stop when strolling around the historic neighbourhood. Q Open 24hrs. €€. PTESW
Vegetarian Idiot C-3, Nab. reky Moiky 82, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 16 75, www.idiot-spb.com. With numerous rooms filled with comfortable and cosy antique furniture, eclectic titbits and reading material in English and Russian, Idiot is worth visiting just for the atmosphere. Here you can taste a variety of traditional Russian dishes, with a decent selection of vegetarian food and a reasonable kids menu. Many people though come to Idiot simply to absorb the atmosphere, and to drink. Guests are given a complimentary mini-shot of vodka, while the cordial english speaking staff hand you the Dostoevsky inspired menu; then, during happy hour (18:30 - 19:30), you get two draught beers or glasses of house wine for the price of one, plus the complimentary vodka. Quite the deal! QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. €€. PTASW
Tony’s Kitchen A-3, Shopping Center Shkipersky Mall, Maly pr. VO 88, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 988 80 20, www.tonykitchen.com. А joint project between wellknown local designer Mikhail Orlov and Sardinian businessman Antonio Kastellani. The restaurant is named in Antonio’s honour and is very spacious, laid out over two floors and 1000 square metres. The food will, of course, mainly be Italian but with a twist: there will be sushi, rolls, Thai soups, and pork ribs, in addition to the homemade pastas, pizzas, risotto and seafood. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 until last guest. €€. PTASW
Restaurants on Vasilievsky Island Cardamon C-2, Nab. Makarova 22/31, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 313 38 99, www.cardamom-bar.ru. This yet to be fully discovered Indian restaurant is located on the spit of Vasilevsky Island, right in the historic centre of St. Petersburg. The oriental style interior is completed by Indian tapestries on the floor. Definitely worth sampling is its delicious naan and poppadom. Longtime Indian resident in St. Petersburg Ravi runs the show around here and is determined to make it a great success. Food-wise, he got everything right, although we were a bit amused by the selection of Russian dishes on the menu as well; we haven’t yet given those a try, but as for Indian food, Cardamom is a welcome addition to the city. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. €€. PTASW Churchkhela A-2, Ul. Odoevskogo 33, MPrimorskaya, tel. (+7) 812 329 06 87, www.ginzaproject.ru. Churchkhela, a Georgian/Caucasian restaurant, is located near Primorskaya metro station, on the 2nd floor of a building above a mobile phone shop. There is a big sign so it‘s not hard to find. The restaurant is welcoming, and our waitress was helpful, supplying an English menu and recommending dishes. They have a great range of homemade lemonade, and tasty meals and desserts (the baklava cake is very good), as well as a business lunch menu. The food is prepared in an open kitchen, so you can watch your food being cooked. Overall the restaurant is very inviting, with accommodating staff, and somewhere to return to! A welcome addition to this part of the city. Q Open 11:00 until last quest. €€. PTASW st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
August - September 2013
Restaurants The nightlife in St. Petersburg is brilliant. You can eat, drink and dance around the clock. The city has dimly lit jazz halls, groovy strip-clubs and a vibrant underground music scene. On a night out in this wild town, you’ll find unique performances and eccentric people everywhere!
Bars and Pubs Abeerdeen E-2, Liteiny pr. 10, MChernyshevskya, tel. (+7) 812 400 22 17, www.abeerdeen.ru. Somehow they’ve managed to make medieval elegant instead of gimmicky at this Scottish gastro pub. The hammered silver finishings and rough wood is in harmonious accord with subtle tartan wallpaper and photographs. Which is dangerous considering how extensive their whiskey selection is - hands down the best in the city. Throw in pleasant, helpful staff, massive portions of delicious pub grub and you may find you’ve spent everything in your wallet and are not the least bit sad about it. In case your wondering, haggis is indeed available - but bring your adventurous friends, as the minimal order is a whopping three kilos. QOpen 11:00 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 05:00. PAESW
Summer is here! And lucky you - there are literally hundreds of places to hang out al fresco and enjoy the sun. Here we’ve picked out what we think are some of the city’s best roof top terraces and bars.
Up on the roof Due to strict planning laws in St. Petersburg you will never find yourself towering over the city from great skyscrapers (which for the architectural beauty of the city is a good thing), although there are a number of good places where you can enjoy rooftop views and the unbridled sunshine that usually comes with them. Sleek, discreet and more than a little snobby, Mansarda’s large roof terrace has a candid view of the nearby St. Isaac’s Cathedral and stays open late for sunset cocktails. Over the street at the 5-star St. Petersburg Renaissance Baltic hotel, they also have a great view over the Cathedral’s golden dome from their 6th Floor Terrace. For fine dining up on the roof, the gorgeous roof top restaurant of the Taleon Imperial Hotel - Victoria - is a top spot whilst W Hotel’s miXup bar up on the roof adjacent to St. Isaac’s
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Cathedral is the place for the city’s glitterati. Another great option for roof-top dining with a view on, among others, the Hermitage you can experience at Bellevue Brasserie, on the top floor of the Kempinski Moika 22 hotel. You’ll feel like you own the city (see picture above!). Over on the Petrograd Side (PS) next to the football stadium, Italian restaurant Makaronniki does a fine line in relaxed rooftop eating and drinking - it’s so relaxed in fact that they even have some sun loungers set up for young ladies who want to top up their tan. The upmarket Nevsky Centre shopping mall, has a roof terrace restaurant called Moskva which has great birds eye views of Nevsky Prospekt. Finally those on low budgets or in search of a young artistic crowd should head to the roof terrace on top of the Loft Project Etagi art centre where the food and the beer is as cheap they come.
Dickens D-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 108, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 702 62 63, www.dickensrest.ru. This British island near the Fontanka river has beer from all around the world, including more than ten on tap, and a lot of superior whiskys. The snacks and food are good too (the chicken wings are our favourites) and come in huge portions. Don’t forget to try the breakfast here - it’s a great hangover cure and real authentic British. Dickens has an authentic pub atmosphere, which is as close to a real British pub that you’ll find in Russia and also features a fine dining restaurant on the second floor. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 01:00. PALSW
James Cook D-2, Shvedsky per. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 951 22 02, www.jcpub.ru. This popular tavern in a vintage basement features one of the longest bars in town. The cellar is divided into two halves, one for the consumption of coffee and cakes, the other reserved for the harder stuff. Not only are the draft beers diverse and poured expertly, there is a wide range of tempting snacks to accompany your beverage of choice, including some great steaks served up on a wooden butcher’s block. Also at Kamennoostrovsky pr. 45 (metro Petrogradskaya). QOpen 09:00 - 02:00, Fri 09:00 - 04:00, Sat 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. PAESW Mollie’s Mews D-2, Ul. Bol. Konyushennaya 5, MNevsky
pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 51 71, www.molly.su. A newly hewn branch of the popular Mollies pub. The Mews lacks the oldfashioned battered and bruised bar clutter which has been worn-in over 15 year at the original pub on Rubinsteina ulitsa. What they are missing in history they make up for in space however. Mollie’s Mews is much bigger than its legendary parent, meaning there’s space now for live Celtic folk bands who drum up a jolly atmosphere and draw the big crowds on Friday and Saturday evenings. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. PAESW
Pickwick Pub E-2, Ul. Ryleeva 6, MChernyshevskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 275 61 41. Pickwick is a real English pub through and through. The staff exchange friendly banter with the punters, there’s premiership football on the tv, real ales on tap and pickled eggs on the bar. The cosy interior is a beautiful recreation of a London victorian pub complete with hand-carved wood fittings, a real fireplace and antique stained glass fittings. Order a pint of one of twenty on tap and settle in for some jolly good fun with the chaps. Tallyho old chum! Q Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun, Mon 12:00 - 01:00 PASW
Bellevue Brasserie D-2, Kempinski Hotel Moika 22,
Nab. Reky Moiky 22, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 91 11, www.kempinski.com/stpetersburg. QOpen 12:00 - 03:00. €€€. Green Room E-3, 3rd floor, Loft project ETAGI, Ligovsky pr. 74, MLigovsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 458 80 03, www.loftprojectetagi.ru. Q Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 06:00. €. Makaronniki C-2, pr. Dobrolyubova 16, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 677 60 88, www.makaronniki.ru. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€. Mansarda C-3, Pochtamskaya ul. 3, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 946 43 03, www.ginza-mansarda. ru. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. €€€. miXup D-3, W Hotel, Voznesensky pr. 6, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 610 61 66, www.wstpetersburg. com. Q Open Sun - Thu 18:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 02:00. €€. Moskva E-3, Nevsky Centre Shopping Centre, Nevsky pr. 114, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 937 64 97, www. ginzaproject.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. €€. The 6th Floor Terrace E-3, St. Petersburg Renaissance Baltic hotel, Pochtamtskaya ul. 4, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 40 00. QOpen 14:00 - 02:00. €€. Victoria D-3, Taleon Imperial Hotel, Nevsky pr. 15, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 99 11, www. taleonimperialhotel.com. QOpen 07:30 - 11:00, 12:00 - 23:00. €€€€.
August - September 2013
Nightlife Dumskaya Street
Dumskaya ulitsa (metro Nevsky prospekt) is the epicenter of St. Petersburg’s wild and grungy ‘trash bar’ scene. What the area lacks in glamour it more than makes up for in energy and its many tiny bars are legendary. The street tends to be teeming at the weekends, while on weekdays DJs also still play for hedonistic mid-week drinkers. Don’t dress up for a night out here, you’re guaranteed to get a drink spilled on you and come home smelling like an ash tray. Do come with an open mind and be prepared to meet the best and worst young characters that St. Petersburg’s nightlife scene has to offer as you bar hop your way down the street. Bars open at 18:00 and usually close 06:00.
Double-bar Ulitka na Sklone Dumskaya ul. 9
The only live music joint on the street, the concerts are certainly in the depths of the underground - so far down in fact that for some bands it may be their first and last concert. They tend to plump for rock genres here, although there are 2 floors so you have the choice of just bar perching as well as head banging.
Quarenghi Ul. Lomonosova 2 You will see the entrance marked by a Clockwork Orange inspired poster. Up the crumbling stairs and into the club proper the surrounds are so basic it looks like a particularly decrepit squat. One room for getting obliterated in and the other breeze-blocked room is for dancing to what sometimes is some horrendous techno and others 80s disco. Poison Ul. Lomonosova 2 Only the genius woman who came up with the original Dacha bar could have brought such a fantastic new idea to the area. Friendly and addictive, Poison stretches the karaoke genre into something fun and communal as opposed to the usual narcissistic cheese you often find. During the week the booths and bar seating also make a good place for a quiet chat or late night sing along (depending on your mood). The songlist is stridently British and American rock and retro (no Soviet chanson here) and anyone can get up and sing for free so long as the host agrees to play their tune. Chert Pobery Ul. Lomonosova 2
A Soviet themed bar where only the music is taken from the modern era. The décor is all Lenin busts and hammers and sickles, but the clientele are the usual quirky mix of the local artistic community and drunken students. One room for lounging and a second dancing area where the usual indie hits reign, along with the occasional smattering of 60s soul.
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Nightlife Shamrock C-3, Ul. Dekabristov 27, MSadovaya, tel.
(+7) 812 570 46 25, www.shamrock.spb.ru. This cosy Irish pub opposite the Mariinsky Theatre has a great atmosphere, 13 types of beer and seriously good food. Sometimes dancers of the Mariinsky come here incognito for a drink after their performance. Otherwise the pleasant companionship of Russians and expats creates an enjoyable and unpredictable evening. Hear traditional live Irish music on Wednesday and on Sunday night various folk musicians meet up for a jam session. The Shamrock also shows international sport events on 3 big screens, including English Premiership football, American NFL, rugby and local sport favourites Zenit and SKA. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. PAESW
Telegraph E-3, Ul. Rubinsteina 3, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 327 74 79, www.pub-telegraph.ru. This stylish British pub, situated in a cosy cellar not far from Nevsky Prospekt, is an easy meeting place for beer lovers, which is why it can be enjoyably crowded here. Another plus is the big screen for live football and other sports matches. In some ways it is a bit of a lonely old man’s pub where you can find dozens of single men who’ve got no one to cook for them having a plate of bangers and mash on their lonesome. Q Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. PALESW The Office Pub D-3, Ul. Kazanskaya 5, MNevsky pr.,
tel. (+7) 812 571 54 28, www.molly.su. This elegant Irish pub not far from Kazan Cathedral attracts locals, expats and tourists who mingle over shots and beers. They have a wide selection of beer on draught including Guinness, Belgian cherry beer and just about everything in between. It’s one of those offices where you don’t mind staying late, but doing overtime definitely has the opposite effect on your wallet. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. PALSW
William Bass Pub E-3, Ligovsky pr. 53, MPl. Voss-
taniya, tel. (+7) 812 717 93 39, www.williambass. ru. Another local homage to Russia’s love affair with British culture. The interior nods to all the usual British stereotypes with portraits of the royals, big leather armchairs downstairs to lean back in with a pipe and there’s also even a bright red room labeled ‘ye olde curiosity shoppe’ in the sprawling area upstairs. Bass brews obviously feature heavily on the menu, alongside numerous other real ales. The location makes it a perfect place for a pre- or post-train pub meal and drink. Q Open 24hrs. PAESW
Artsy and Underground Atelier Bar D-3, Ul. Lomonosova 1, MNevsky pr., tel.
(+7) 812 998 12 90, www.atelierbar.ru. This three storey, rough-at-the-edges bar/club, just round the corner from the hectic Dumskaya ‘bar street’, has a bit of squat feel to it but is moving with the times and has updated its interiors to make things a little more comfortable.The crumbling concrete walls have been given a lick of pain and the toilets have become less sess-pit style than previously. Atelier attracts a predominately grungy student set and can feel a bit too ‘young’ for some. The music is as unpredictable as the face control but given the proximity of so many other bars you can always hop out and try another venue and pop in later to see how things are swinging. QOpen 11:00 - 06:00, Sat, Sun 15:00 - 06:00. PEW
Dva Mohito pazhalusta! – Two Mojitos please! st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
Borodabar D-3, Ul. Kazanskaya 11, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 923 89 40, www.borodabar.ru. This hole-in-thewall sized bar is a happy addition to St. Petersburg’s burgeoning underground bar scene. Despite its diminutive size the atmospheric Boroda (beard) bar still packs in the people and is bursting with the kind of atmosphere that wouldn’t be amiss in Berlin or Budapest. The homemade interior reflects the eclectic mix of clientele with industrial breeze blocks and exposed piping, graffiti by tattoo artists and reclaimed items of cheap furniture. Q Open 17:00 until last guest. ESW Cafe-Bar Produkty E-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 17, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 57 54. Produkty’s owner apparently was inspired by those quirky little hole-in-the-wall sized bars that make the Berlin nightlife scene so legendary and in terms of both design and vibe the inspiration really shows. Produkty rocks its retro 1960s reclaimed furniture so well, that even the guests in their boho beards and fake spectacles, look like they also were brought in as part of the decoration. Q Open 11:00 - 01:00, Thu 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. PAEW Mishka E-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 40, MNevksky pr., tel. (+7) 812 643 25 50, www.mishkabar.ru. Named after the youtube celebrity, Mishka the talking husky, this tiny basement bar is well done up in grey with pink accents. All the hipsters are here, with their oversized glasses and handmade accessories. They’re smoking Belomorkanals ironically and tapping their feet to the DJ who’s sharing space with the friendly bartenders. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. PASW
Clubs Avrora E-1, Pirogovskaya nab. 5/2, MPl. Lenina, tel.
(+7) 812 907 19 17, www.avrora-zal.ru. Set in supposedly the site of the first disco in St. Petersburg (then Leningrad in the 1970s), Avrora has recently been taken over by Yaroslav Pomogaykin of Jagger Club fame. It bills itself as an entertainment complex and certainly has grand ambitions with a bowl-shaped concert hall that can fit up to 1500 during concerts and a smaller and more intimate hall, B.B. King, which features smaller concerts and other events. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. PLEW
Barrel D-3, Ul. Kazanskaya 5, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)
812 929 82 98, www.project-barrel.ru. This slick black and neon looking place has got a bit of an attitude to it - one that says dress rich and spend money. Their cocktails are good compared to the sad orange juice and vodka (‘the screwdriver’) that you may get served in the average bar, although they take a long time to arrive. There’s also an elaborate menu done up like a glossy magazine offering a bit of everything, but primarily this is a place to sit in your fox fur stole with a martini and look down at the fellow wannabe VIPs in attendance - until it’s pole dancing time, of course. Free karaoke on Wednesday nights and frequent guest DJs at the weekend. Q Open 12:00 until last guest, Fri 12:00 - 06:00, Sat, Sun 15:00 - 06:00. PAESW
Estrada D-3, Sadovaya ul. 17, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)
812 931 51 01, www.estradaclub.ru. Located in the heart of the city, the Estrada club will appeal to lovers of quality relaxation, good food and original theme parties. The club is divided into several zones, each of which is under a different pricing policy. There is a spacious dance floor, a wide bar for those who like noisy fun, meeting new people, and chatting, tables, sofas, and darkened corridors for romantic escape and friendly conversations. If you visit, you will feel at ease and relaxed. Some of the best DJs in the city are here. Q Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00. PAESW
Fever karaoke bar D-2, Kadetskaya Liniya 19, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 971 18 88, www. karaokebarfever.ru. The sound system is quality, the stage is front and centre without being obstrusive and the song list is truly staggering in it’s length and breadth. Friendly, professional staff is a bonus and the couches offered an uber plush vantage point from which to view the enthusiastic, if less than talented, take to the mike. It offers 2 private VIP rooms, which can be accessed by fingerprint, as well as two lounge areas for a fun company where you can smoke hookah, drink good wine and just eat and talk. Q Open 20:00 - 06:00. PALEW Purga E-2, Nab. reky Fontanky 11, MMayakovskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 570 51 23, www.purga-club.ru. There are two Purgas right next to each other on the Fontanka river. Purga I celebrates New Year’s Eve every night complete with midnight countdown and mock TV address by Russia/Soviet leaders. In Purga II, couples celebrate mock weddings and dress up in white plastic creations to look like brides and bridegrooms. Book ahead if you want to get a table and make sure you arrive before midnight, when the festivities begin. QOpen 16:00 - 06:00. PASW
Radiobaby D-3, Ul. Kazanskaya 7, MNevsky pr., www.radiobaby.com. With its high ceilings and groovy modern décor, Radiobaby has been cleverly divided with the dance floor, bar and chill-out room all flowing into one another so you can rock, drink and relax all in one place. The crowd is a diverse mix of hipsters and the old-guard and the DJs are local favorites who know how to keep the energy up. The no house, no techno rule is in effect. Entrance is through the archway and to the left. QOpen 18:00 - 06:00. PEW August - September 2013
Nightlife Jazz and Blues JFC Jazz Club E-2, Ul. Shpalernaya 33, MCherny-
shevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 272 98 50, www.jfc-club. spb.ru. It’s hard to believe that this intimate, little club can hold more than 100 people. It has a stage, a handful of tables and standing space around the bar, for the people who forget to book a table. It’s popular with the city’s artsy scene and with people who know their jazz. It has original performances by top-notch musicians playing just about any thing from experimental jazz, to acid jazz to blues. QOpen 19:00 - 23:00. PUEW
Jimi Hendrix Blues Club E-3, Liteiny pr. 33, MMaya-
kovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 579 88 13, www.hendrix-club. ru. Russian blues stars play songs with their soul and other instruments on a small stage in this intimate cellar. Here it feels as though Jimmy Hendrix is still alive - if he is, he’s probably a frequent visitor! The kitchen serves excellent Russian and Georgian food. If you wonder why it takes so long before you get your order: it’s all made fresh. We recommend booking a table in advance, the joint is always packed. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PAE
The Hat Bar E-2, Ul. Belinskogo 9, MChernyshevskaya. If you add whiskey and jazz together you get The Hat. The Hat boasts 30 different types of whiskey and nine different types of bourbon. However, if you aren’t a huge whiskey fan, the expert barmen can create any drink or cocktail you desire. The bar is designed to look like an old-time American bar that you would see in classic Hollywood road movies. There is live music everyday and when the live music stops, jazz plays continuously in the background. The soothing jazz rhythms are accompanied by the clanking of drink glasses and lively chatter, which creates a vibrant atmosphere that is sure to brighten anyone’s mood. QOpen 17:00 until last guest. PEW
unusual cocktails like the delicious “Berry Cheesecake”. An extensive food menu includes the usual Italian and Asian selections, plus other dishes like sea bass and steaks. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri 10:00 - 06:00, Sat 11:00 - 06:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. PTAESW
Tsvetochki D-3, Ul. Rubinshteina. 36, MDostoevs-
kaya, tel. (+7) 812 942 07 54. Guests are seated around a handful of small wooden tables alternatively drinking pots of tea or complicated cocktails and the music is a mash of country, jazz, soul and nostalgic pop. Décor is minimal brick walls and the odd splash of colour with the trendy good-looking staff an added feature. Tsvetochki attracts a young, intelligent set looking to start the night in a laidback fashion so leave your bling at home. Q Open 09:00 - 05:00. PABW
Zing Bar D-3, Ul. Lomonosova 14, MDostoevskaya.
Cocktails, Russia’s beautiful artistic youth and a wicked soundtrack are the draw cards of this stylish little cocktail bar. The interior is sleek and intimately lit, but not so much so that you can’t actually see anyone or anything as can be experienced elsewhere. In another seemingly innovative move it’s all non-smoking and there’s little in the way of face control. The menu focuses on the classics and is historically separated into ‘old’ (19th Century), recent and modern sections which also includes their own Russian influenced creations. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00. PAGW
Tyomnoe – Dark Svetloe – Light (for beer)
Live Music Clubs St. Petersburg’s live music scene is really buzzing and there are a wide range of live music clubs to choose from where you can catch new and up-and-coming Russian bands. For the better known names you should head to the bigger concert halls such as A2, Cosmonavt, Avrora, Dada or Zal Ozhidaniya. A2 and Avrora in particular, are very large and modern clubs, with multiple stages, and are great places for seeing foreign touring club acts and established local groups. If you prefer to step into the underground there are a number of great intimate venues to choose from. Fish Fabrique and the GEZ-21 experimental sound centre in the neighbouring Pushkinskaya art centre usually tend towards rock, indie and alternative bands, while intimate clubs such as Dada are also favourites for underground rock and punk bands. Avrora club E-2, Pirogovskaya nab. 5/2, MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 907 19 17, www.avrora-zal.ru Club A2 B-1, Pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.a2.fm Club Cosmonavt D-4, Ul. Bronnitskaya 24, MTekhnologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 922 13 00, www. cosmonavt.su Club Zal Ozhidaniya Nab. Obvodnogo kanala 118, MBaltiyskaya, tel. (+7) 812 333 10 68, www. clubzal.com. Dada С-3, Gorokhovaya ul. 47, MSennaya, tel. (+7) 921 424 39 69, www.dadaclub.ru Fish Fabrique E-3, Ligovsky pr. 53, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 764 48 57, www.fishfabrique.ru GEZ D-3 Pushkinskaya 10, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 812 764 52 58, www.gez21.ru
Cocktail bars Bar 812 E-3, Ul. Zhukovskogo 11, MMayakovskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 956 81 29, www.bar812.ru. Weeknights this narrow bar seems like a quiet, unassuming place to sip a cocktail and chat with a date or a friendly fellow patron. At the weekend, however, the beautiful people come out to glide past face control and play Carrie Bradshaw with their cosmos in hand and dance stillettos at the ready. No beer, just (expertly) mixed drinks. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon. PEW
Daiquiri Bar D-2, Ul. Bol. Konyushennaya 1, MNevsky
pr., tel. (+7) 812 943 81 14, www.dbar.ru. Sexy girls in racy outfits and handsome men in suits cover the walls in this red, white and chrome homage to Sex and the City. The staff are extremely friendly and the cocktails professionally made - the house daiquiris are particularly good. With more than 300 exotic yet reasonably priced cocktails on the list it can be a good place to start the weekend. Also at Gorokhovaya ul. 49. Q Open 16:00 - 04:00. Fri, Sat 16:00 - 06:00. PASW
Graf-in C-3, Konnogvardeisky bul. 4, MAdmiralteis-
kaya, tel. (+7) 812 601 01 60, www.graf-in.com. The English meaning of grafin is “carafe” which is fitting since the place is decorated with them. With its trendy interior, attractive staff and state of the art hookahs, it is clear that Grafin caters to the more glamorous crowd. Wearing casual street clothes may make you feel a little uncomfortable among all the men in suits. Grafin offers a huge cocktail menu that includes your standard drinks as well as more
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
August - September 2013
sightseeing Russian Museum D-2, Ul. Inzhenernaya 4/2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www.rusmuseum.ru. A dazzling journey from thirteenth century icons to the cream of Russian avant-garde, the Russian Museum is housed in various buildings and palaces. With a maze of beautifully decorated rooms, the main Mikhailovsky Palace is a delight for art-lovers, whatever their favoured genre. It is widely acclaimed for containing the most outstanding collection of icons from ancient Rus. The Benois Wing has an especially strong display of work from the turn of the twentieth century. Tickets can include entrance to the Stroganov Palace, Marble Palace and Mikhailovsky Castle which host temporary exhibitions. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue. Admission 150-350Rbl. All inclusive ticket 300-600Rbl. Y Peter and Paul Fortress (State Museum of history of St. Petersburg) D-2, Petropavlovskaya krepost 3,
Photo by Malvina Markina St. Petersburg‘s World-Heritage-Listed city centre is one of the most awe-inspiring in Europe. Designed by Europe‘s greatest architects, it was virtually untouched during Soviet times. The city has an enormous amount of individual tourist attractions which remain enchantingly beautiful and steeped in fascinating history.
The Essentials Aleksander Nevsky Monastery F-4, Nab. reky Mo-
nastirky 1, MPl. Aleksandra Nevskogo, tel. (+7) 812 274 17 02, www.lavra.spb.ru. Founded by Peter the Great, in 1710, this orthodox monastery is the most important in St. Petersburg. The St. Trinity cathedral is worth a visit and so is the cemetery, where you can visit the graves of Russia‘s greatest composers and writers, including Tchaikovsky, Mussorgsky, Glinka and Dostoevsky. You can buy fresh holy bread in the monastery‘s bakery in the afternoon (on your left as you approach the Trinity cathedral from the entrance). Q Open daily 06:00 - 20:00. Monastery 06:00-20:00. Daily services at the Trinity Cathedral 07:00, 10:00, 17:00. Necropolis 09:30 - 17:30.
Church of the Saviour on the Spilt Blood D-2, Nab.
kan. Griboedova 2b, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 16 36, www.cathedral.ru. This Moscow-style church with richly coloured onion domes looks a bit out of place in the European centre of St. Petersburg, but it‘s one of the city‘s most beautiful and memorable landmarks. It got its awkward name because it was built on the spot where Tsar Alexander II was murdered in 1881. Locals call it ‘the mosaic church‘ because the interior is covered with magnificent mosaics, each wall with a particular Biblical theme. It was renovated in the early 1990s and reopened as a museum in 1997. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Wed. Admission 50-250Rbl.
Kazan Cathedral D-3, Kazanskaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 46 63, www.kazansky-spb.ru. This cathedral, which was modelled on St. Peter‘s in Rome, is one of the city‘s most majestic. It was built from 1801 to 1811 to house the miracle-working Icon Our Lady of Kazan. The dome is 80-metres high and the colonnade facing Nevsky has 96 columns. Be warned, it‘s a quiet place and they don‘t like you to talk a lot in here, it‘s place of prayer and contemplation. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00. Daily services 07:00, 10:00 and 18:00. Admission to the church is free. Guided tours should be booked in advance by phone (+7) 812 570 45 28. Kunstkamera (Peter the Great Museum of Anthropology and Ethnography) C-2, Universitetskaya nab.
3, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 328 14 12, www. kunstkamera.ru. St. Petersburg‘s oldest museum is also its strangest. Kunstkamera (which translates as art house) was founded by Peter the Great in 1714. It is also known as the Peter the Great Museum of Anthropology and Ethnography. It has anthropological and ethnographic collections on the cultures of people around the world as well as an eclectic mix of random items that Peter and Russian explorers collected on their worldly travels. Peter‘s Anatomical Collection with its severed hands and malformed babies in jars still draws the crowds. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon and last Tue of every month. Admission 150-250Rbl.
miralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 97 32, www.cathedral. ru. Fully restored inside and out, St. Isaac’s is one of the world’s largest and most ornate cathedrals. The interior is adorned with gold trim, mosaics and paintings. Designed by Auguste de Montferrand and built between 1818 and 1858 the church was named in tribute to Peter the Great who was born on the day of St. Isaac of Dalmatia. If it is a clear day we recommend climbing to the dome’s top; the panoramic view is absolutely worth the effort. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Wed. Colonnade open daily 11:00 - 17:00. Closed second Wed of the month. Tickets for the cathedral and the colonnade are sold separately. Admission Cathedral 50 - 250Rbl. Colonnade 150Rbl. Audioguide 100Rbl. Y 03 74, www.rusmuseum.ru. Tsar Peter the Great created the Summer Garden, surrounded by beautiful iron fences, in 1704. Most of the trees and all 250 statues were imported from Italy. For a century, it was the exclusive domain of people of the highest rank. Tsar Nicholas I opened it up to ‘well-dressed people,’ but these days they don’t care what you wear. These statues have seen it all. There’s a display of twelve funky handturned iron chairs positioned in a circle, each one made by different blacksmiths. QOpen 10:00 20:00. Closed Tue. Admission free.
MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 84 40, www.aurora. org.ru. The battle ship, anchored off the banks of Petrograd Side, has become somewhat of a Soviet shrine. This is because blank shots fired from the Aurora are said to have been the trigger for the revolution of 1917. The ship was sunk during WWII, to protect it from German bombing, and, in 1958, it was made into a museum. It is operated by the Central Naval Museum. After the collapse of the Soviet Union, mysterious rumours have been spreading that it is, in fact, a replica. But who knows? Why not find out for yourself! Q Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Fri. Admission 50 - 300Rbl.
Take note that most museum ticket offices close one hour before the official closing time. Also remember most museums ask you to buy an extra photography ticket if you would like to take photos or videos st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
Hermitage C-2, Dvortsovaya nab. 34 (entrance from Dvortsovaya pl.), MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 90 79, www.hermitagemuseum.org. The director of the Hermitage once said, “I can‘t say that the Hermitage is the number one museum in the world, but it‘s certainly not the second.” And with over three million works of art and treasures housed in five connected buildings along the Neva, the museum can‘t fail to impress. Give yourself plenty of time and try to go on a weekday to avoid the crowds or even take a virtual tour. Four hours is probably an absolute minimum of time to spend there if you want to see the main state rooms and some of the most popular artworks.
St. Isaac’s Cathedral D-3, Isaakievskaya pl. 4, MAd-
Summer Garden D-2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314
Cruiser Avrora D-1, PS, Petrogradskaya nab.,
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www.spbmuseum.ru. The Fortress is the cradle of the city; St Petersburg‘s first settlement. Now a tourist complex, it houses the famous Cathedral of the Saint Apostles Peter and Paul, along with numerous museums, galleries and spectacular river-side views. The proudest offerings are the large Commandant‘s House museum which examines the history of the city and the smaller, modern and fun museum at the Neva Curtain Wall which studies the history of the Fortress itself. However, the more unusual Engineer‘s House and Museum of Space Exploration are really very quirky and good. The Mint displays coin collections and the Printing Workshop contains printing and ceramic relics. Visit the Neva Curtain Wall archway for the best view, and brave a dip in the bracing waters… at your own risk. Q The fortress is open 08:30 - 20:00. Museums open 11:00 - 18:00, Tue 11:00 - 17:00, closed Wed. Cathedral open 10:00 - 18:00, Tue 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00, closed Wed. Entrance to fortress is free. All inclusive ticket 280Rbl (ticket valid for all museums). Audioguide 200-250Rbl. Y
The museum‘s art collection covers all of the greatest European movements. Lovers of the renaissance shouldn‘t miss the Da Vincis, Canalettos, Michaelangelos and Raphaels of the Italian rooms. The Rembrandt room filled with works by the old master is another must as are the nearby El Grecos. The great impressionists like Gaugin, Van Gogh, Degas, Matisse, Picasso and the gang are all up on the top floor where there is also a very large selection of Oriental and Middle Eastern art. The ground floor houses the museum‘s treasures of ancient Greece, Rome, Egypt and Persia as well as antiquities from the near and central east.There is also a number of cafes and shops on the ground floor just to the right of the main staircase after the entrance to the museum. The largest number of opulent state rooms such as the throne rooms, ballrooms, boudoirs, the spectacular clock room with its huge peacock clock and other libraries, parlours and the like are largely located on the first floor (in Russian 2nd floor) of the winter palace and lead off in different directions from the Jordan staircase (where you enter the museum just after the ticket offices).QOpen 10:30 - 18:00, Sun 10:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 400Rbl. Audioguide 350Rbl. Excursion bureau (+7) 812 571 84 46.
August - September 2013
sightseeing Museum of the History of the Russian Political
Churches and Monasteries
Chesma Church Ul. Lensoveta 12, MMoskovskaya,
Arctic and Antarctic Museum E-3, Ul. Marata 24a, MV-
tel. (+7) 812 373 61 14, www.chesma.spb.ru. When a messenger told Empress Catherine the Great about the Russian victory over the Turkish Fleet at the Bay of Chesma, she immediately decided to have a church built on the spot she was standing. Ten years later, in 1780, the foreign looking, white and red striped building was finished. Across from the church stands the neo-gothic Chesma palace. It served as a stopping ground for Catherine on her way to Tsarskoye Selo. It was also where Rasputin was laid in state after his murder. The church served as a museum during Soviet times but was revived as a place of worship in 1999. The palace currently houses an elderly person‘s home. Q Open 09:00 - 19:00. Daily services 10:00 (except Mon). Sat services 10:00, 18:00.
Smolny Cathedral F-2, Pl. Rastrelli 3, MChernyshevs-
ladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 25 49, www.polarmuseum. ru. The small building on the corner of Marata and Kuznechny streets is a gleaming and quirky palace-converted-museum. It is filled to the brim with maps of Arctic and Antarctic expeditions, ship models, photos, stuffed models of animals and artifacts. Above the displays hang a series of beautiful paintings of snowy landscapes, seascapes, and scenes of expedition sites and native wildlife. The first floor is dedicated to the Arctic while the upper level (up several hidden flights of stairs at the entrance) is all about the Antarctic. Though the signs are in Russian, the quirky museum is worth a visit for anyone interested in the topic and seeing stuffed penguins, polar bears and walruses. The special treat is a dated but effective simulation of the northern lights. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue, last Fri of the month. Admission 50-150Rbl.
kaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 31 59, www.cathedral.ru. The view over the city from this blue baroque cathedral is worth the climb to the top of one of the bell-towers. Smolny, once the centre-piece of a convent founded to educate young noblemen and women, is nowadays a concert and exhibition hall with an exhibition of Smolny’s history on display. From the nearby neo-classical Smolny Institute, Lenin orchestrated the October Revolution in 1917. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00. Bell-tower 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Admission 50 - 150Rbl, concerts 200 - 700Rbl. Bell-tower 100Rbl.
St. Nicholas Cathedral C-3, Nikolskaya pl. 1/3, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 714 70 85, www.nikolskiysobor.ru. Built between 1753 and 1762, this blue and white cathedral is one of St. Petersburg’s most beautiful. In the 18th century, this part of town was the sailors’ quarter, which is why the cathedral was named after Nicholas - the patron saint of sailors, and why locals sometimes call it ‘the sailor’s church.’ The two-storey Baroque building has low ceilings and a warm and inviting interior. At the church gates on the Kryukov canal, there is an impressive four-story bell tower. Q Open 06:30 - 19:30. Daily services 07:00, 10:00, 18:00. Admission free.
Lyrical City F. M. Dostoevsky Literary-Memorial Museum E-3, Kuzhnechny
Maze of Fear and Mirror Maze D-3, Nevsky pr. 3, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 947 83 36. In the centre of the northern capital lies the scariest attraction in the world – the Maze of Fear. This is a labyrinth of narrow corridors, filled with frightening characters, dead bodies covered in blood, and the screams of horror from other people in the maze around you, all designed to shock and terrify. You have to find your way out of the catacombs and dark dungeons of Nevsky Prospekt, all in complete darkness – no torches or mobile phone lights allowed! A warning - don’t go in by yourself! Prepare to be alone with your fears - will you be able to find your way out? There is also a Mirror Maze, which you must find your way out of among a huge number of your own reflections! QOpen 12:00 - 23:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. Admission Maze of Fear 300Rbl, Mirror Maze 200Rbl. MusEros, Museum of Erotica E-3, Ligovsky pr.
43/45,, MLigovsky pr. 43/45, tel. (+7) 812 905 03 94, www.музэрос.рф. The collection of the first real museum of erotica features several dozen exhibits spread out over five halls featuring everything from Japanese erotic engravings and time machines from the time of Catherine the Great to BDSM materials and Soviet propaganda posters. There is a 3D viewing hall on the premises as well showing soft core erotica, although it plans to show more educational programming in the future. Q Open 24hrs. Admission 490Rbl.
Troitsky Cathedral D-4, Izmailovsky pr. 7a, MTekhno-
logichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 251 89 27. Although in need of some serious reconstruction, this cathedral still manages to impress because of its vastness and big blue domes which overlook the nearby Fontanka canal and a (clothing) market. The cathedral can hold up to 3000 people simultaneously. Inside look out for a special column, made of the iron of captured rifles during the Russian-Turkey war in 1877-1878. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Daily services 10:00, Fri - Sun 17:00.
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Police C-2, Admiraltesky pr. 6/2, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 27 42, www.polithistory.ru. The State Museum of the Political History of Russia is the successor to the Revolution Museum. It is housed in two historic buildings of the modern era: the mansions of the ballerina M. Kshesinskaya, and baron V. Brandt. The new exhibition ‘Man and Power in Russia in the XIX-XXI Centuries’ is devoted to the relationship between man and the state at the crucial moments in the history of the country. The period of the revolution between 1917 and 1922 is presented in the exhibition ‘February of 1917. The Breakdown of the Monarchy’, as well as the memorial rooms ‘Lenin’s Study’ and ‘Room of the Secretariat of the Central Committee of Bolshevik Party in 1917’. The exhibition ‘The Soviet Epoch: Between Utopia and Reality’ reveals images of that time – Stalin, Khrushchev and Brezhnev – presented in documents, things, and reconstructed interiors. The exhibition ‘Matilda Kshesinskaya: Fouettes of Fate’ tells the story of the mistress of the mansion. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Wed 10:00 - 20:00. Сlosed Thu and the last Mon of the month. Admission 60 - 150Rbl.
Russian Etnographic Museum E-2, Ul. Inzhenernaya 4/1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 54 21, www. ethnomuseum.ru. Wanting to get deeper in touch with the lifestyle of Russia‘s various native ethnic minorities? The Russian Ethnographic Museum is the place to be. Situated right next to the Russian Museum, the large collection contains thousands of different traditional handcrafted items such as jewellery, clothes, weapons and tools used by different native cultures across Russia and Central Asia. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon and last Fri of month. Admission 50-350Rbl. Excursion 1,500-2,500Rbl (10-25 pers.). st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
per. 5/2, M Vladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 40 31, www.md.spb.ru. Dostoevsk y‘s weathered corner-apartment is a two minute walk from the metro. The museum is divided into two sections: literary and memorial (his apar tment and belongings). The audioguide will enrich the experience and lessen confusion. Displays include newspaper articles that inspired him and photographs of the house where The Brothers Karamazov story is set. Also gives fascinating biographical details about his arrest and exile. Whether you are interested in Dostoevsky‘s brave character, turbulent life, or amazing work, this museum is certainly the premium place to go. On weekends contact tel. (+7) 921 977 43 00. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00, Wed, Sat 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon and on public holidays. Admission 70-150Rbl. Audioguide 100-170Rbl. Guided tours for up to 20 people from 1,550Rbl per group, should be booked in advance by phone (+7) 812 571 40 31.
Pier with Lions
Central Landing-Stage Pier with Lions D-2, Admiralteiskaya nab. 2, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 320 08 77, www.boattrip.ru. One of the joys of St. Petersburg is the chance to go boating along the canals and rivers. You really get a different perspective of the city from the water and the reflections of the coloured sky and palaces are enchanting. At the central landing-stage Pier with Lions they offer regular water water trips every hour along the Neva River, the Gulf of Finland, the city’s canals and even to the fountains of Peterhof. They have tours with audioguides in different languages, special jazz tours, BBQ evenings, a bar and a VIP lounge. QAdmission: tickets for adults range from 400 - 1,000Rbl. Online booking and discount for children, students and return tickets. PAUTKE
Literature Museum C-2, Nab. Makarova 4, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 328 05 02, www.pushkinskijdom.ru. Known as the Pushkin House, this museum preserves some real literary treasures. As well as works by Great Russian writers Lermontov and Tolstoy, you can find the writing-table of the great symbolist Blok. Did you know that the museum holds an astounding 12,000 manuscripts by poet Pushkin? The museum is situated on the second floor of the Institute for Russian Literature. QOpen 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 200 - 350Rbl. Excursions from 1,000Rbl for 25 people group. st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
August - September 2013
sightseeing St. Petersburg City Card Where ever you see this logo Y, it means you can get a discount or a free entrance at this venue with the Petersburg card. Petersburg Card provides tourists with free entrance and discounts to many things this city has to offer, including museums, some restaurants, hotels, and shops (the full list can be found on the website and in the guidebook (in English and Russian) which comes with the card). It’s also a ‘Podorozhnik’ travel card with 4 free journeys (money can be added later on as well), which is valid for 3 years! Petersburg Card can be valid for 2 days (48 hours) - 1800 rubles, 3 days (72 hours) - 2500 rubles, or 5 days (120 hours) - 3300 rubles, and begins after the first visit to a museum or a tour. You can buy the card from the ‘City Card’ office in St. Petersburg, via the website, or in some hotels and Post Offices of the city (the complete list is available on the website).
sightseeing Modern Art Centres Erarta, Museum and Galleries of Contemporary Art B-3, VO, 29-ya linya, 2, MVasileostrovskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 324 08 09, www.erarta.com. The Erarta museum is the biggest non-governmental contemporary museum in Russia and definitely one of its most exciting. The spectacularly restored five story building is separated into two parts - one a gallery where the works are for sale and the other a museum tracing the history of Russian modern art of the last 60 years. Some of the works and installations on display are truly monumental in size and will leave anyone interested in new Russian art swooning. The passionate curators are constantly updating their collection by travelling across Russia to find unknown future stars and track down old favourites from all periods and streams of the Russian contemporary movement. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Tue. Admission 300Rbl. Guided tours in for up to 25 people 3,000Rbl per group by prior arrangement. Audioguide 100Rbl.
Loft Rizzordi Kurlyandskaya ul. 49, MNarvskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 702 90 62, www.rizzordi.org. This 4000 square meter loft is located in a spectacular old building made of red bricks - a splendid example of architecture of the second half of the 19th century. This building is part of the Kalinkinsky brewery, one of the oldest breweries in Russia - you can smell it in the air. They have a specific atmosphere here and you can attend different exhibitions of European and Russian artists, art workshops and nice parties. Getting there: on Nevsky pr. take bus 22 and get off at Rizhsky pr. From metro Narvskaya take marshrutka 1, 2, 6, 169, 177, 195 or bus 2, 6, 66. Q Open 14:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. Special events 100-200Rbl.
Tours around St. Petersburg Liberty Ltd, travel company for the disabled, tel. The city’s founder, Peter the Great, intended the Neva river to be the ‘main street’ of St. Petersburg, with Petersburgers learning to punt like the Venetians in summer, and walking or sledging on the ice in winter. To start, there was only a single wooden bridge crossing the Neva, and it was not until 1850, nearly 150 years later, that the first permanent bridge was built. Now, of course, the rivers and canals are littered with bridges – there are 342 of them, in fact – some narrow, suited only for pedestrians, others vast, buzzing with the sound of vehicles, horns, shouting and revving. The three most famous rivers in St. Petersburg are the Neva, the Moika, and Fontanka. The Neva, at 1300-2000 feet wide and adorned with imperial architecture, is the most impressive. The Moika is considerably smaller, but still lined with fascinating 18th Century architecture, including the Stroganov and Yusopov Palaces, the New Holland Arch and the notable St Micheal’s Castle. Watch out for the Blue Bridge, Petersburg’s widest bridge at 97.3m, which spans the Moika at St. Isaac’s Square. Like the Neva, Fontanka has always played an important role in the geography of the city. Originally, the river marked the edge of the St Petersburg, although the city has since extended far beyond Fontanka’s banks. All three, along with the numerous other rivers and canals of St Petersburg, have played a huge role in the literature and art so strongly associated with the city, and along their banks you can find the houses (many of which are now museums) of many famous writers and artists, including Alexander Pushkin, Anna Akhmatova and Ivan Turgenev.
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
(+7) 812 232 81 63, www.libertytour.ru. This travel company specialises in wheelchair accessible tours in and around St. Petersburg. The guided tours work with specially fitted transport vans and take in the regular sights such as the Hermitage as well as general sightseeing and to the city suburbs such as Peterhof. Tour length and prices vary from the 1hr Spilled Blood Tour up to the 5hr jaunt to Peterhof. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Tours from 1,000Rbl. AU
Further Afield Oranienbaum
Oranienbaum (Orange Tree) isn’t quite as popular among tourists as other similar palaces, but it‘s nonetheless a lovely place for a picnic or for a walk through peaceful gardens and pine woods. Prince Alexander Menshikov, one of Peter the Great’s best friends, started building the estate and its Grand Palace. Catherine the Great made it one of her holiday spots and built a small Chinese palace with baroque outside and rococo within. Menshikov’s Grand Palace hasn‘t changed a great deal over the centuries and it‘s one of the few palaces on the outskirts of the city that wasn’t destroyed by the Nazis.
Accurately referred to as the ‘Russian Versailles’, Peterhof is one of Russia‘s number one tourist attractions. It is particularly spectacular from late-May to mid-October, when the 147 fountains are turned on, but even so it is well worth visiting at any other time of year. The Great Palace was built between 1709 and 1724 under the directions of Peter the Great, but the tsars and tsarinas that followed each wanted to make their own mark, adding another palace or fountain to the grounds. The focal point of the whole ensemble is the jaw-dropping cascade fountain leading down from the palace and from there the park spreads out to the left and right along the coastline with trick fountains, pyramid fountains, marble sculptures and other impressive stuff.
Petersburg Voyage E-3, Ligovsky pr. 56-G, off. 609, MLigovsky pr., tel. (+7) 967 513 26 80, www.petersburg-voyage.com. The Petersburg Voyage travel agency offers various private and group tours and excursions all over St. Petersburg, Russia and the surrounding area. Any personal itinerary of events and places can be accommodated, or visitors can join pre-existing tours and excursions, featuring many of the most popular sights. Petersburg Voyage only works with the best professional guides in St. Petersburg who are experienced, polite, and knowledgeable. Q TAU Sputnik C-2, Birzhevaya liniya 16 (VO), MVasileostrovs-
kaya, tel. (+7) 921 418 35 11, www.sputnik8.com. Those who want to get down and really meet the locals rather than just sweatily bumping into them in metro carriages and late night clubs should check out the ambitious new tourist guide service offered by Sputnik. It‘s a simple scheme whereby local volunteers take visitors into the best parts of their daily life; whether it be hidden Soviet-era cafes, roof top vistas or communal apartments. Envisaged as a cross-cultural project they aim to give tourists a slice of real life and show them their favourite parts of the city which tourists might never get to see. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Guided tours in English up to 1,200Rbl. Some free tours are also available. Groups up to 15 people. AUW
Strelna. Konstantinovsky Palace
Once known as Putin‘s Palace, this palace is now one of the official Presidential residences. Historically speaking, the Palace‘s original owners were the Romanovs; however, after the 1917 Revolution, it fell into disrepair. Nowadays the public can enjoy the immaculate lawns. Inside the palace are spectacular views over the gulf and sumptuous meeting rooms with huge sparkling chandeliers. There is also a display of Russian paintings, decorative and applied arts from the 18th to the 20th century as well as a unique collection of fine wines. Note you must show your passport when you enter (this is also an official government building).
Peterhof Must-Visits To visit Peterhof is to travel back over three centuries in time to an era of unchecked ambition, limitless power and opulent beauty. Apparently not ‘great’ enough when originally built, the Great Palace has been altered and expanded much over the course of its history and ownership. The exterior is surprisingly harmonious, given that it was over 200 years in the making and has been touched by German, Italian, Russian and French architects alike. It goes without saying that the interiors have to be seen to be believed. When Peter’s daughter and heir Elizabeth took over she hired Bartolemeo Francesco Rastrelli, an architect whose fingerprints are all over St. Petersburg, including no less a building than the Hermitage. Rastrelli, it seems, never met a surface he didn’t want to gild and the ballroom and grand staircase are the epitome of this idea. Rich furnishings, handsome ornaments and artworks complete the grandiose royal residence, all lovingly restored following extensive damage incurred during the Second World War. Of particular note is the Chesme Hall. Originally used as a reception area, as it is adjacent to the throne room, Catherine the Great had the hall redone to showcase 12 massive canvases by German painter Jacob Philippe Hackaert. Each of the canvases depict sea battles from the Russo-Turkish War of 1768-1774, especially the Chesme harbour battle. Legend has it, Hackaert’s initial efforts proved inaccurately tame, without enough blazing ships and flying timber. To help him out, Catherine had a frigate exploded in an Italian harbour while the artist sat ashore, presumably blithely sketching the destruction. The jewel in Peterhof’s glittering crown has got to be the monumental Grand Cascade made up of 64 fountains and more than 200 statues, bronze reliefs and other shiny stuff. The design was conceived by Peter the Great himself. The centre piece is giant statue of Samson fighting a lion, symbolizing Russia’s victory over Sweden in the Great Northern War (1700-1721). The twenty metre high jet of water that shoots out of the lion’s jaws is the highest in the park. Around the cascade you can challenge your friends to a round of spot the mythological heroes while you search for Bacchus, Aphrodite, Hermes and Achilles and co. All of the palace’s fountains, jets, water arches, sprays and tranquil pools are courtesy of the pressure created by natural elevation and all of the water is from the natural springs lying just below the upper gardens. A tour of the grotto, located just behind the grand cascade, includes an explanation of the remarkable technology and also gives a bit of insight as to Peter’s sense of humor – reaching for the bowl of fruit at the central table will result in a surprise soaking. Oh, that Peter.
August - September 2013
sightseeing Getting There Strelna – Peterhof – Oranienbaum
Peterhof is located about 30km west of St. Petersburg on the Finnish gulf. Oranienbaum is located 40km west of St. Petersburg and Strelna is located six kilometres east of Peterhof (about halfway between St. Petersburg proper and Peterhof). All the 3 towns are located along the Peterhof highway. By bus/marshrutka: From Avtovo metro station take marshrutka (commercial bus) 224, 300, 424 or 424a. You can also take public buses 200, 210. From Baltisky train station (Baltiskaya metro station): marshrutka 404. From Pr. Veteranov metro station: marshrutka 343, 639b. From Leninsky pr. metro station: marshrutka 103(K224). Don’t forget to warn the driver (or passengers) that you want to exit next to the fountains (ask for Fontany or Dvorets (fountains or palace)). For Strelna get off at the Strelna station. For Oranienbaum get off at the Oranienbaum station. By train: Take a train from Baltisky train station to Novy Peterhof. These trains leave in the directions of Kalishe, Oranienbaum or Krasnoflotsk. The ride takes approximately 45 minutes. Once in Novy Peterhof, take buses 349, 350, 351, 352, 355, 356, warn the driver that you want to exit next to the fountains. For Strelna get off at the Strelna station. For Oranienbaum get off at the Oranienbaum station. By hydrofoil: Peterhof Express The Meteor speedboat leaves from Admiralteiskaya nab. 2 (Pier with Lions) near Dvortsovy (Palace) Bridge. Seating is airline style, with leather upholstery and more than ample legroom. Between cabins, there is a partially open viewing area that is as picturesque as it is windy. Toilets available on board. See more: www.peterhof-express.ru. The hydrofoil comes directly to the Lower park of Peterhof where the fountains are situated.
Pushkin – Pavlovsk
Pushkin and Pavlovsk are located about 20km south of St. Petersburg. By bus/marshrutka: From Moskovskaya metro station: for Pushkin take marshrutka 286, 287, 342, 347, 382 or take public bus 187; for Pavlovsk take marshrutka 299. From Kupchino metro station: for Pushkin take bus 186, for Pavlovsk take marshrutka 286. By train: For Pushkin take a train from Vitebsky train station (Pushkinskaya metro station) to Detskoe Selo. From there you can walk to Catherine’s Palace (20min) or take bus 371, 382 or marshrutka 371, 377, 382. For Pavlovsk take a train from Vitebsky train station to Pavlovsk. From there you can take bus 370, 383, 493 or marshrutka 513, 299, 286. You can also take a train from Kupchino metro/train station.
The summer home of the Romanov tsars for centuries, Tsarskoe Selo or the ‚Royal Village‘ was renamed Pushkin following the communist revolution in honour of one of its other well-known residents, the poet Alexander Pushkin. In 2010 the town celebrated its 300th birthday and following intense restoration works Pushkin‘s many treasures are sparkling. Regardless of the time of year, sightseeing opportunities abound, from the spectacular Catherine Park filled with quirky monuments commissioned by the Empress and the sparkling Amber room of Catherine‘s Palace to the quieter Alexander Palace where the last Tsars spent their final days before they were arrested by the Bolsheviks and the literary school museum where the poet Alexander Pushkin studied.
Subtle, romantic, relaxing and quiet. All perfect words to describe Pavlovsk. Only 27km from the big city, it feels like a world away. The small town hosts the fascinating Pavlovsk Palace, encompassed by a huge 1,500 acre park. Tall trees, winding streams and endless paths scattered with classical statues and flanked by benches make for many a secluded spot. If you have active children who need a place to blow off some steam, pack a picnic and make an afternoon of it. The enchanting Pavlovsk Palace, with its magnificent neoclassical interior, is a feast for the eyes. The country residence of the Imperial family boasts beautiful architecture and captivating history. Certainly not as grand as Peterhof, but much less touristy, Pavlovsk is a great place to get away from it all.
Opening Times and Tickets Oranienbaum (+7) 812 450 52 87 www.oranienbaum.org. Q Park open daily 09:00 - 20:00. Palaces open 10:30 - 18:00, closed Mon. Admission to park and palaces 70 - 140Rbl. Pavlovsk (+7) 812 452 21 55, www.pavlovskmuseum.ru. Q Palace open 10:00 - 18:00, closed first Mon of the month. Admission 200 - 450Rbl. Park open daily 10:00 - 18:00. Admission to park 80 - 150Rbl. Peterhof (+7) 812 450 52 87, www.peterhofmuseum.ru. Q Park open daily 09:00 - 20:00. Admission to park 50 - 450Rbl. Visiting of palaces: 10:30 - 12:00, 14:30 - 16:15, closed Mon and last Tue of the month. Admission to palaces 300 - 550Rbl. Find more information online. Pushkin (+7) 812 466 66 69, www.tzar.ru. Q
Catherine park open 07:00 - 23:00. Admission to park 50 - 100Rbl. Catherine palace open 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 - 21:00, closed Tue. Admission 100 - 320Rbl. Visiting of the palace: 10:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 19:00 for guided groups, 12:00 - 16:00 for individual tourists.
Strelna (+7) 812 438 53 60, www.konstantinpalace.ru. Q You can book tickets and guided tours online
or by phone. Tickets from 170Rbl. Palace open 10:00 - 17:00, closed Wed.
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
shopping Galeria Galeria D-3, Ligovsky pr. 30A, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel.
(+7) 812 643 31 72, www.galeria-spb.ru. The largest shopping mall in the centre of the city and a stone’s throw away from the Moscow Railway Station, Galeria cannot be missed. The huge beautiful new building fits remarkably well here. Inside, it’s everything you would expect from your modern shopping mall and more. It boasts the largest selection of brands in St. Petersburg, from high street brands like Topshop, Levis, Mexx and French Connection to some Russian designer clothes as well. It also features a huge supermarket, food court, movie theatre, bowling alley and some very good restaurants. When with children, head to the top floor where there is a huge entertainment area for the young and young-atheart. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. AULKW
Shopping Bookshops Anglia E-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 38, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 579 80 07, www.britannia-spb.ru. QOpen
10:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. A Biblioteka Projector E-3, 4th floor, Loft Project Etagi, Ligovsky pr. 74, MLigovsky pr., tel. +7 911 218 74 39. QOpen 12:00 - 21:00. AKW Bukvoed D-3, Nevsky pr. 46, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 601 06 01, www.bookvoed.ru. Q Open 24hrs. AKW Dom Knigy D-3, Nevsky pr. 28, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 448 23 55, www.spbdk.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. AK
Gifts and Souvenirs Art - Boutique Dynasty C-2, VO, 6-ya Liniya 3, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 327 09 19. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. AU La Petite Opera Gallery D-3, Grand Hotel Europe and Taleon Imperial Hotel, Nevsky pr. 15, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 80 83, www.lacquerbox.net. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Nevsky Souvenir Shop D-3, Nevsky pr. 22-24 (entrance at Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 12), MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 954 78 53, www.nevskysouvenir.com. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. A Onegin Art Gallery souvenirs and paintings D-3, Ul. Italyanskaya 11, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 00 58, www.onegin-gallery.com. QOpen 08:00 - 22:30. AUL Pavloposadskie Platki Shop E-3, Nevsky pr. 87/2, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 963 329 12 63, www.platki. ru. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. A
Nevsky Centre Nevsky Centre D-3, Nevsky pr. 114-116, MPl.
Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 313 93 13, www.nevskycentre.ru. This shopping centre in the historical heart of the city is brand-spanking new and looks it inside and out. Anchored by Stockmann, the Finnish department store, it is aimed at more upscale shoppers. You can find glamourous clothing outlets, cosmetics shops and those sophisticated bits and bobs for the house all under one roof. There‘s also a spa, gym, roof top restaurant and a supermarket, located in the basement of the shopping centre. It has standard local foodstuffs and European products for both the budget cook and the serious gourmet. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. AULKW
Markets Kuznechny market E-3, Kuznechny per. 3, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 41 61. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00,
Sun 08:00 - 19:00. N Sennoy market D-3, Moskovsky pr. 4a, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 310 12 09, www.sennoyrynok.piter-center. ru. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. N
Vintage and Second-hand Banya Concept Store Nab. Obvodnogo kanala 60,
MObnodny kanal, tel. (+7) 812 457 19 48, www. banyaconcept.com. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. ALKW Sweeter Shop D-3, Nab. kan. Griboedova 26, MNevsky pr., www.sweetershop.ru. QOpen 14:00 - 21:00.
For a more detailed guide to all the shopping options check our website st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
YellowKorner C-1, Bolshoy pr. PS, 86, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 232 84 07, www.yellowkorner. com. Petrograd side is the main ARTery of St. Petersburg, where concentrated fashion galleries, lofts and exhibition spaces. In one of the authentic mansions of Bolshoy Prospect recently opened an international gallery YellowKorner, which presents a wide panorama of contemporary and vintage photography worldwide. YellowKorner sells more than 1,500 exclusive photos that could be the finishing touch for your space or original gift for your loved ones. It‘s time to buy art! QOpen 11:00 21:00. PAW
Russian Souvenirs There are dozens of traditional souvenirs you can bring back with you from Russia.
Russian dolls are the quintessential Russian souvenir. Usually painted with the cute faces of a Russian girl or stylised family, you can also get them painted with dictators of the world, former US presidents or even just left plain to paint yourself. Prices will usually depend on the number of dolls and the intricacy and range of colours of the design.
A perfect present for any female friend or relative. These beautifully designed and colourful scarves can either spruce up the outfit of a young lady by being worn around the neck or serve to make your grandma look even cuter than usual by being worn around the head. Orenburgsky platok is another highly desirable type of scarf made from the down hair of goats. The real hand spun ones are very warm and yet also so delicate and silk-like that the whole scarf can be pulled through a woman’s wedding ring.
Shopping centres DLT Department store В-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul.
21-23, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 648 08 48, www.dlt.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. AKW Eliseevsky Store E-3, Nevsky pr. 56, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 952 376 73 76, www.kupetzeliseevs.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. AKW Grand Palace Boutiques Gallery D-3, Nevsky pr. 44 / ul. Italyanskaya 15, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 449 93 44, www.grand-palace.ru. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. ALK Passage D-2, Nevsky pr. 48, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 52 57, www.passage.spb.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. AK Sennaya Shopping Centre D-3, Ul. Efimova 3, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 740 46 38/(+7) 812 740 46 39, www.sennaya.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. ALK Vladimirsky Passage E-3, Vladimirsky pr. 19, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 331 32 32, www.vpassage.ru. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. ALKW
Flower Etiquette If giving flowers to someone, you have no need to fear. A nice bunch of blooms is always acceptable. That is, if you give an odd number. Even numbers are only for funerals and the dead. As to what type of flower is a good one usually depends on the recipient. The red rose is considered as romantic in Russia as it is in most other countries. Take note though that due to the tradition of only giving an odd number, there can be no dozen red roses – just eleven. Yellow roses signify friendship. Tulips are used to express sympathy, yet yellow tulips hint to a hidden love. Orchids celebrate beauty and chrysanthemums undying youth and health.
Russian lacquer boxes are some of the finest Russian handicrafts still produced in Russia. Creating the distinctive shiny black layer using many coats of lacquer and then painting on the front minute scenes from Russian fairytales and folklore, requires very skilled masters. Usually the real ones feel a lot heavy than regular painted wooden boxes and should have the signature of the artist both sides of the lid.
Birch wood crafts
The silver birch is the national tree of Russia, the further in to the countryside you get, the more you notice that the world’s largest country is covered in them. It then comes as no surprise that Russians have been experts at producing items carved out of the bark of their favourite tree. Birch wood combs are particularly popular as they are said to be very good for your hair.
Vodka and Caviar
They compliment each other as perfectly as beer and crisps or strawberries and cream. The better vodka brands come out under the Russky standart label although ladoga and berozka are also good. For something more kitsch look out for Kalashnikov or matrioshka vodka. Black beluga caviar is still one of the most expensive foods on the planet and a small jar can set you back more than $100 if you buy it in the market. Never buy caviar from street touts, more often than not it is fake and/or illegal.
August - September 2013
expat and Lifestyle
expat AND Lifestyle International Schools/Pre-schools
In this section we seek to highlight various organisations one can join, fun activities for kids and the whole family, expat cultural institutions, religious services, and other items of interest to make your expat experience in St. Petersburg more full and fulfilling. There is a fairly well-developed and growing expat scene in the city and we recommend taking advantage of these connections.
German School C-1, Ul. Odoevskogo 19A, MVasileo-
strovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 441 21 59, www.deutscheschule.ru. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Infant School (British International School) D-3, Nevsky pr. 136, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 714 77 74, www.infantschool.ru. Q Open 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. The International Pre-School E-2, Ul. Furshtatskaya 22, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 921 977 89 35. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Accountants and Lawyers Avenir Group E-3, Vladimirsky pr. 23A, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 718 81 57, www.avenir.ru. QOpen
09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Acsour D-3, Nevsky pr. 10, business centre Geneum, 4th floor, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 454 44 24, www.acsour.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Baker & McKenzie C-2, Bolloev Business Center, per. Grivtsova 4A, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 303 90 00, www.bakermckenzie.com. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sat, Sun. EMG (Accountants & Consultants) D-4, 10-ya Krasnoarmeiskaya 22, office 69, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 313 77 81, www.emg-russia.com. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Ernst and Young (Accountants & Consultants)
D-3, Mal. Morskaya ul. 23A, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 703 78 34, www.ey.com/cis. QOpen 08:30 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. KPMG E-4, Ul. Marata 69-71A, MLigovsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 313 73 00, www.kpmg.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Pepeliaev, Goltsblat & Partners E-2, Ul. Shpalernaya 54, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 640 60 10, www. pgplaw.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. PricewaterhouseCoopers D-3, Per. Grivtsova 4A, MSennaya Pl., tel. (+7) 812 326 69 69, www.pwc.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. The Institute for Enterprise Issues E-4, Ul. Marata 92, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 812 703 40 41, www.ipp.spb. ru. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Internations InterNations is the biggest global networking site for expats of various nationalities and their family members with almost 200,000 members in 235 cities worldwide. Already extremely popular in the capital Moscow, InterNations is now rapidly expanding in St. Petersburg too. By becoming a member you gain access to the online social network were you can connect with other expats, browse the various forums, leave tips for other expats and interact with people who may have the same interests. Most importantly of course InterNations also host monthly get-togethers. Check out upcoming events at www.internations.org.
Religious Services Business associations SPIBA - St. Petersburg International Business Association for North-Western Russia D-3, Nevsky
pr. 21, off. 506, tel. (+7) 812 325 90 91, www.spiba.ru. QOpen 09:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Relocation and Supplies AAA-Logistics E-3, Ul. Sofiskaya 6, MVolkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 921 412 02 51, www.aaa-russia.com.
QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Cultural Centres and Libraries American Corners E-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 46,
MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 60 32, www.
amcorners.ru. Q Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. British Book Centre D-4, Izmailovsky pr. 18 (Library
im. Lermontova), MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 251 12 43, www.britania-spb.ru. Q Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Danish Cultural Institute D-3, Nab. reky Moiky 42, off. 38, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 74 66, www.dki. spb.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Estonian Cultural Center Jaani Kirik C-3, Dekabristov ul. 54A, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 710 84 46, www.jaanikirik.ru. Q Open 14:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00. Finnish Institute D-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 8, 3rd floor, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 606 65 65, www. instfin.ru. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Fri 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Goethe Institute D-3, Nab. reky Moiky 58, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 363 11 25, www.goethe.de/ stpetersburg. Q Open 08:15 - 20:00, closed Sat. Library open 14:00 - 17:00, closed Sun. Institut Francais D-3, Nevsky pr. 12, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 09 95, www.ifspb.com. QOpen 09:30 - 18:30, Fri 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Istituto Italiano di Cultura C-3, Teatralnaya pl. 10, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 718 81 89, www.iicsanpietroburgo.esteri.it. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 14:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Mayakovsky Library/ Foreign Literature Library
E-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 44-46, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 08 56, www.pl.spb.ru. Q Open 11:00 - 20:00, closed Sun. Foreign literature department 11:00 - 19:00, closed Sun. The Netherlands Institute E-3, Kaluzhsky per. 3, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 327 08 87, www. nispb.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. YESOD Jewish Community Home C-1, Bol. Raznochinnaya ul. 25A, MChkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 449 58 85, esod.spb.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Sat.
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Evangelical Lutheran Church of St. Katarina (Swedish church) D-2, Mal. Konyushennaya ul. 1/3,
MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 20 81, www.swedenabroad.com. Usual Sunday services at 12:30 (2 times a month in Swedish, other 2 times in English). Sunday school for young children.
Evangelical Lutheran Parish of St. Maria Church
D-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 8A, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 71 61, www.elci.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Lutheran church of Peter and Paul D-3, Nevsky pr. 22-24, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 07 98, www. petrikirche.ru. Q Open Tue - Fri 10:00 - 18:00.
Roman Catholic Parish, Church of St. Catherine of Alexandria D-3, Nevsky pr. 32-34, MNevsky pr.,
tel. (+7) 812 571 57 95, www.catherine.spb.ru. Daily services in Russian 08:30, 19:00; Sat 12:00 (Russian), 20:00 (Spanish); Sun 09:30 (English), 12:00 (Russian), 13:30 (Polish), 17:00 (French). QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
The Expat Experience Tell us something about yourself. My name is Jennes de Mol. I was born in 1963 in the south of the Netherlands in Eindhoven, city of companies like Philips and DAF. Nowadays this is an economically thriving center of innovation, high tech development and Dutch design. My work at the Ministry of Foreign Affairs brought me to places like Moscow, Geneva, Prague, Afghanistan and now as Consul General in St. Petersburg. This year is the official bilateral Netherlands-Russia year, tell us something about the highlights. The bilateral year is well underway and has economic, cultural and political highlights. Dutch companies show their tradition of technological innovation. Moreover, the Royal Netherland Navy is present with vessels. In September we have the opening of the Willem II and Anna Pavlovna exhibition in the State Hermitage. Anna Pavlovna, younger sister of Tsar Alexander I, was our queen from 1841-1849. The exhibition shows the art and life style at the Dutch Orange court with the influences of the Romanov dynasty. In the autumn there will be an exhibition on Dutch architecture as of 1945-2000.
E-2, Kovensky per. 7, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 272 04 42, www.kovensky.ru. Q Daily services in Russian Mon 19:00; Tue - Fri 08:30, 19:00, Sat 08:30, 19:00, Sun 10:30, 12:00, 19:00. Service in Polish every Sun 09:00. St. Michael‘s Lutheran Church C-2, VO, Sredny pr.18 B, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 323 33 17, www.stmihail.ru. Services Thu 19:00, Sun 11:00. After the Sunday service the Bible hour is held. Sunday school (except for the summer months). Concerts on Saturday and Sunday.
What makes St. Petersburg special for you? St. Petersburg is the Russian cultural hotspot and economic engine of the North West of Russia. The rich Russian culture of the 18th and 19th centuries can be seen and felt here. Special is that the origins of the city are linked to my own country. In places like the Menshikov Palace, Kunstkamera, Summer Gardens, Peterhof or Winter Palace you can see how much Peter the Great loved Amsterdam. But the new era has also brought interesting examples of modern re-use of industrial complexes like Loft Project Etagi, New Holland and Skorokhod.
Clinics and Hospitals
What are you favorite spots in the city to visit in the weekends? The places to be for me are spots where I meet interesting people or get inspiration. New Holland, Art Center Pushkinskaya 10, a literature cafe like Knigi I Kofe, the summer festivals on Elagin Island, the Botanical garden and last but not least Pavlovsk palace. I enjoy visiting the house of the Architects and the Museum of Political History or the Imperial Porcelain factory museum. St Petersburg is full of relatively unknown house museums which make history very tangible. My favorites are the private apartments of leading figures like politician Kirov, artist Kuindgi or academician Pavlov.
Romanian Catholic Church of Lord Mother of God
American Medical Clinic and Hospital D-3, Nab. reky Moiky 78, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 740 20 90/ (+7) 812 336 00 03, www.amclinic.com. Q Open 24hrs. PTAU Euromed Medical Center F-2, Suvorovsky pr. 60, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 327 03 01, www. euromed.ru. Q Open 24hrs. PTAU Medi International Clinic E-3, Nevsky pr. 82, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 777 00 00, www.emedi.ru. QOpen 08:00 - 21:30. PTAU Russian - Finnish clinic Scandinavia E-2, Liteiny pr. 55A, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 600 77 77, www.avaclinic. ru. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. PTAU st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
If not Moscow and St. Petersburg, what other city would you recommend for foreigners to visit in Russia and why? Being outside the big cities brings you closer to Russian reality in my view. Favorite destinations are Veliky Novgorod and the Pskov area with Pushkin Hills estate and the Pechora monastery. I can recommend a trip to Lake Baikal with Irkustsk and its astonishing, un-spoilt nature. Historical places like Archangelsk or Vologda and surroundings, both in winter and summertime, show the essence of the Russian soul and beauty of its landscape and culture.
August - September 2013
expat AND Lifestyle Russian for Expats Pervy blin komom – the first pancake is a lump “Pervy blin komom”, its literal meaning “the first pancake is a lump”, relates to one’s first attempt at something, which, according to the idiom, is a certain failure. For example, if you have just begun learning Russian, your Russian friends might say “Ne perezhivay, pervy blin komom”, which means that everyone makes mistakes at the beginning whilst learning. Some say that the expression was originally “pervy blin komam”, which meant “the first pancake for the bears”. In ancient times the bear had a special place in Slavic cultures, which was why the bears should have the first pancake.
Banyas, Spas and Pools MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 969 53 15, www.d1a. ru. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. A Holiday Club Spa and Wellness C-2, Sokos Hotel Palace Bridge, Birzhevoy per. 2-4, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 14, www.clubeasyfit.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Rimskie kanikuly (Roman holidays) A-2, Park Inn Pribaltiskaya, ul. Korablestroiteley 14, MPrimorskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 47 17, www.romanholidays.ru. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. AKDC Royal Thai D-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 54 06/(+7) 911 157 15 15, www. royalthai.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PL
Entertainment Centres Liden & Denz E-2, Inzhenernaya ul. 6, MNevsky pr.,
tel. (+7) 812 334 07 88, www.lidenz.ru. Liden & Denz is one of St.Petersburg oldest language schools, having opened in 1992. Russian is taught mostly in groups, though individual tuition is also available. Situated in the historical city centre not far from Gostiny Dvor, the school features spacious and bright classrooms, all equipped with modern facilities. There is workstation with iPads for student use, plus wi-fi internet if you want to bring your own laptop. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A
Bowling Park D-3, Sennaya Shopping Centre, ul. Efi-
mova 3, MSennaya Pl., tel. (+7) 812 380 30 05, www. bowlingpark.ru. QOpen 11:00 - 06:00, Sat 10:00 - 06:00. Divo Ostrov B-1, MKrestovsky Ostrov, tel. (+7) 812 323 97 07, www.divo-ostrov.ru. Q Open 12:00 - 20:00 Fun City E-3, Nevsky pr. 112, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 332 14 02, fcity.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PTAG Happylon E-3, Galeria Shopping Centre, Ligovsky pr. 30, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 800 100 00 20, www. happylon.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PTAKW
Lavrushka Cooking School The Lavrushka cooking school, located near the Admiralteyskaya metro station, offers you the chance to explore Russian cuisine. The courses, which last from 1 to 3 hours, are conducted by professional chefs, and are available in several languages, including English. It doesn’t matter whether or not you are skilled at cooking, as the staff are very friendly and helpful. You can learn to cook typical Russian dishes, including ‘pelmeni’ and ‘blini’, and the recipes will be emailed to you, so you can recreate them at home. Once the cooking is finished, you can sit and enjoy your meal together with your fellow cooks in the cosy dining room. There are courses for tourists, expats, corporate events, and parties for children, so simply choose what you’d like to learn how to cook, and register online. It’s very rewarding, and a great way to experience the traditional side of Russia.
Looking for a chance to unwind and kick off the weekend with some like-minded company? Sure, St. Petersburg is full of great bars, but it’s not always easy to dive into the city’s nightlife on your own – which is where Fryday comes in. The idea is simple: those interested in an informal gathering over a drink or two, make arrangements via the group’s Facebook page and pick out a different bar every few weeks. The St. Petersburg edition is one of several all over Europe, and the original Fryday founders – a pair of expat Swedes in Kiev – estimate that any given weekend might see 500 people or more attending these meet-ups anywhere from Warsaw to Almaty. For more details, see www.facebook.com/fryday.saintpetersburg.
By Plane St. Petersburg’s two airports are south of the city. Most international flights leave from Pulkovo-2, tel. (+7) 812 704 34 44, www.pulkovoairport.ru/eng/. Internal flights (including those to most former Soviet Republics) leave from Pulkovo-1. Don’t forget to take your immigration card with you and arrive early as queues at Pulkovo-2 can be particularly long.
Public transport and Taxis Most Petersburg residents get around the city by public transport which operates from 06:00 to just after midnight. On above-ground transportation you can buy tickets on board from the conductor or the driver. Bus/Trolleybus/Tram – Routes are indicated on window placards positioned on the side of each bus and trolley. Tickets cost 25Rbl. Metro – Petersburg has five colour-coded, numbered metro lines. Buy tokens (zhetoni) from the windows labelled kassa or plastic cards for more rides which you can use for a fixed period. When you arrive at a station, you will hear the arrival station announced, followed by the name of the next stop. One metro ride costs 28Rbl. Marshrutka – The marshrutka is a mini bus taxi which follows a set route, hailing it down like a taxi. When you want to get off, yell out, ‘astanavites pazhalusta’. The price of the ride will usually be displayed in the front of the mini-bus. Pass your change down the front of the bus towards the driver to pay. Taxis – Although there are official ’taxis’, most St. Petersburgers hail down ordinary cars. To foreigners, travelling in an unmarked car may seem unsafe, and it is certainly advisable to take caution. There is a certain protocol to follow. Stand by a main road and stick out your arm - palm down. Always agree to a price in advance (‘Skolko?’); within the centre 150-200Rbl is normal. Then hop in and enjoy the Lada experience. Try to avoid using large denominations and asking for change. Taxi 068 tel. (+7) 812 068, (+7) 812 324 77 77, www.taxi068.ru Taxi 7000000 tel (+7) 812 7000000, www.taxi7000000.ru
Buying Tickets If you like torture, buy your train tickets from the ticket windows in the train stations. When choosing a cashier, ensure they are not due to take a break in the next hour or two and don’t be surprised to be pushed in on while in the queue. You can always buy from a tourist or ticket agency for a less painful experience. You can also buy online (although the booking pages are in Russian) and collect your ticket from machines in the station. The official online booking site is www.rzd.ru. Don’t forget to bring your passport with you as they need it to print you passport number on the ticket and hold your reservation.
Buses City Bus Station Nab. Obvodnogo kan. 36, MObvodno-
go kanal, tel. (+7) 812 766 57 77, www.avokzal.ru Tickets for domestic and international buses.QOpen 06:30 - 23:30. Ecolines Podyezdnoy per. 3, Pushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 812 325 21 52, www.ecolines.ru QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. Eurolines Russia Mitrofanyevskoe shosse 2-1, MBaltiiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 441 37 57, www.eurolines.ru. Daily buses to Tallinn and Riga.QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.
Lavrushka cooking school D-3, Nab. reky Moiky
81, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 58 60, (+7) 812 942 49 28, www.lavrushka.org.
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Leaving St. Petersburg
Degtyarnie Bathhouses F-3, Degtyarnaya ul. 1,
Getting to the airport by Taxi Taxi-drivers may ask anything from 2,000Rbl, US$70 or €50 to take you to the airport. Agree on the price first: a reasonable price is no more than 800Rbl, US$30 or €20. If you phone a taxi company and order transport to the airport in advance you can get a better deal. For taxi companies see page 9. Getting to the airport by Public Transport Buses N113, N213 and fixed-route mini-buses (marshrutky) K13, T113 go from Moskovskaya metro every 15 min (19-28Rbl) to Pulkovo-2. Mini-buses K3 and K213 go from Moskovskaya and also the more central Sennaya Pl. There is also a 24hour bus route linking both the international and domestic terminals with the city centre. Bus K800 runs from Pulkovo-1 (domestic) and K900 leaves from Pulkovo-2. The route passes metro stations Moskovskaya, Tekhnologichesky Institut and ends at Vladimirskaya.
Train Stations Baltiisky station Nab. Obvodnogo kan. 120, MBalti-
iskaya, tel. (+7) 812 457 28 59. Local trains to and from Petrodvorets (Peterhof), Lomonosov, Oranienbaum, Gatchina, Luga, Krasnoe Selo. Finlyandsky station Pl. Lenina, 6, MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 436 67 46. Local trains to and from Helsinki, Vyborg, Zhelenogorsk, Sestoretsk, Repino, Komarovo, Karelia. Ladozhsky station Zanevsky pr. 73, MLadozhskaya, tel. (+7) 812 436 53 10. Trains to and from Murmansk, Vologda, Svetogorsk, Kostomuksha. Moskovsky station E-4, Nevsky pr. 85, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 457 44 28. Trains going to Moscow and anywhere south of Moscow. Vitebsky station C-4, Zagorodny pr. 52, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 812 457 59 39. Trains to and from Pushkin, Pavlovsk, Brest, Odessa, Smolensk, Kiev, Minsk, Praga, Warsaw, Tallin, Riga, Berlin, Dnepropetrovska, Budapest, Vilnius.
Getting around Where is the…? Is it far? Right/left Straight ahead Ticket office Open/closed Entrance/exit Push/pull Ticket Return (ticket) Entrance forbidden No smoking
Gde…? Eta daleko? Napravo/nalevo Pryamo Kassa Otkryto/zakryto
Где…? Это далеко? Направо/налево Прямо Касса Открыто/ закрыто Vkhod/Vykhod Вход/выход Ot sebya/k sebe От себя/к себе Bilet Билет Tuda i obratno Туда и обратно Vkhod Вход запрещен zapreshchyon Ne kurit Не курить
August - September 2013
GETTING AROUND Street Register 1-28-ya liniya B-2/B-3/C-2/C-3 Admiralteisky pr. D-3 Alexandra Nevskogo most F-3 Angliskaya nab. C-3 Anichkov most E-3 Arsenalnaya nab. E-2 Bakunina pr. F-3 Baskov per. E-2 Belinskogo ul. E-2 Birzhevaya liniya C-2 Blagoveshchensky most C-2 Blokhina ul. C-2 Bol. Konyushennaya ul. D-2 Bol. Morskaya ul. C-3/D-3 Bol. Podyacheskaya ul. D-3 Bolsheokhtinsky most F-2 Bolshoy pr. (PS) C-1/C-2 Bolshoy pr. (VO) B-3/C-2 Chernyshevskogo pr. E-2 Chkalovsky pr. C-1 Degtyarnaya ul. F-3 Dekabristov ul. C-3/D-3 Dostoevskogo ul. E-3 Dumskaya ul. D-3 Dvortsovaya nab. D-2 Efimova ul. D-3 Furshtatskaya ul. E-2 Galernaya ul. C-3 Glinki ul. C-3 Goncharnaya ul. E-3 Gorokhovaya ul. D-3 Grafsky per. E-3 Griboedova kan. nab. C-3/C-4/D-2/D-3
Advertise on this map! Call: (+7) 812 448 88 65 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Grivtsova per. D-3 Inzhenernaya ul. E-3 Isaakievskaya pl. D-3 Iskusstv pl. D-3 Italyanskaya ul. D-3/D-4 Kadetskaya liniya C-2 Kamennoostrovsky pr. D-1 Karavannaya ul. E-3 Kazanskaya ul. D-3 Kirochnaya ul. E-2/F-2 Kolokolnaya ul. E-3 Konnogvardeysky bul. C-3 Kovensky per. E-2 Krasnogo Tekstilshchika ul. F-2 Kronverkskaya nab. D-2 Kronversky pr. D-1 Kutuzova nab. D-2/E-2 Lermontovsky pr. C-3/C-4 Letny sad D-2 Leitenanta Shmidta nab. C-3 Ligovsky pr. E-3/E-4 Liteiny most E-2 Liteiny pr. E-2/E-3 Lomonosova ul. D-3/E-3 Makarova nab. C-2 Mal. Konyushennaya ul. D-2 Mal. Morskaya ul. D-3 Mal. Posadskaya D-1 Mal. Sadovaya E-3 Maly pr. (PS) C-1 Maly pr. (VO) B-1 Manezhnaya pl. E-3 Marata ul. E-3 Marsovo pole D-2
Mayakovskogo ul. E-2/E-3 Mendeleevskaya liniya C-2 Mikhailovskaya ul. D-3 Millionnaya ul. D-2 Moskovsky pr. D-3/D-4 Moiky reky nab. C-3/D-2/D-3 Muchnoy per. D-3 Mytninskaya nab. С-2/D-2 Nekrasova ul. E-2 Nevsky pr. D-3/E-3/F-3 Ostrovskogo pl. E-3 Pestelya ul. E-2 Petrovskaya nab. D-2 Pirogovskaya nab. E-1/E-2 Pochtamtskaya ul. C-3 Poltavskaya ul. F-3 Pushkinskaya ul. E-3 Radishcheva ul. E-2/E-3 Razyezzhaya ul. E-3 Rimskogo-Korsakova ul. C-3/C-4/D-3 Robespyera nab. E-2 Rubinshteina ul. E-3 Ryleeva ul. E-2 Sadovaya ul. E-2/E-3 Sampsonievsky most D-1 Sapyorny per. E-2 Shpalernaya ul. E-2/F-2 Shvedsky per. D-2 Sinopskaya nab. F-3 Smolnaya nab. F-2 Solyanoy per. E-2 Sotsialisticheskaya ul. E-3 Sovetskaya 1-ya - 9-ya ul. E-3/F-2/F-3
Spassky per. D-3 Sredniy pr. (V0) B-2/B-3/C-2 Starorusskaya ul. F-3 Stolyarny per. D-3 Stremyannaya ul. E-3 Suvorovsky pr. F-2/F-3 Sverdlovskaya nab. F-1/F-2 Tavricheskaya ul. F-2 Chaikovskogo ul. E-2 Teatralnaya pl. C-3 Troitsky most D-2 Tuchkov most C-2 Tverskaya ul. F-2 Universitetskaya nab. C-2/C-3 Vladimirsky pr. E-3 Vosstaniya ul. E-2/E-3 Vosstaniya pl. E-3 Voznesensky pr. D-3 Zagorodny pr. D-3/D-4/E-3 Zhukovskogo ul. E-3
Abbreviations Ul. – Ulitsa Pr. – Prospekt Pl. – Ploshchad Bul. – Bulvar Per. – Pereulok Kan. – Kanal Nab. – Naberezhnaya Bol. – Bolshaya Mal. – Malaya
This map gives you an overview of the city and helps with general orientation. For more detail, pick up our St. Petersburg In Your Pocket Mini-Guide with the full version of this map, plus essential listings for what to do and see, plus where to eat and drink. st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
August - September 2013
Whatâ€™s in a name? It was only in the 1760s that Nevsky Prospekt got its current name. With Peter the Great still alive it was known as the Big Prospekt, after his death it became Nevsky Prospekt. The communists decided to name the famous thoroughfare after the revolution: the 25th of October Avenue. This last name luckily never caught on and they had to stick with the Nevsky moniker instead.
Introduction Russia is undisputedly the world’s biggest country. Its sheer size guarantees that no other country even comes in at a close second. While most visitors primarily make visits to the two capitals – Moscow and St. Petersburg – the country has much more to offer. Bordering 16 countries, it is 17,075,400 square kilometres large with a population of 143 million and a territory that encompasses nine time zones and 83 regions, so one naturally can sometimes feel overwhelmed by the sheer choice of sites on offer in such an enormous country. But, it goes without saying that while many of the most exciting events in any given country occur in their capital cities, its soul often lies elsewhere. This is especially true in Russia. Russia features ancient towns filled with architectural ensembles and churches completing visually fantastic landscapes, quaint and calm towns located on the banks of enormous rivers, and enough natural beauty – forests, lakes, and mountains – to satisfy anyone looking for a break from the hustle and bustle of city life. Although the level of development in provincial towns is still not on pace with the largest cities, but that is also part of the adventure. It is here that one can experience how average Russians live and imagine the past, present, and future of their country. Summer is a wondrous time to make a visit the sun comes out of its slumber, and the plethora of holidays guarantee that there will be plenty of special events and celebrations on offer. In each subsequent issue we will select a few destinations within striking distance of the city’s capitals that make excellent detours into the beauty and wonder of provincial Russia. Some can be enjoyed as one-day getaways, while others are full weekend trips. We would argue that no trip to Russia is fully complete without a visit to a provincial city, whether it be one of the wonders of the Golden Ring cities, or one of the ancient Russian settlements, such as Pskov or Veliky Novgorod. It was in these towns that the idea of Russia was first enunciated and enacted. Of course, a wider selection of cities can be found on our website. In this issue we have selected Moscow, plus six provincial cities. Moscow, of course, needs no introduction. The other cities are: Kazan, the capital of Tatarstan, where “East meets West”, Veliky Novgorod, one of Russia’s early trading settlements with a beautifully restored Kremlin and nearby Staraya Russa, an old town that served as a summer getaway for Russian writer Dostoevsky. Two important and old cities on the mighty river Volga you can read about here are Samara and Yaroslavl. Last, but certainly not least, we included Sochi, the host city of the Winter Olympics of 2014. In Moscow please look for our print guide in hotels or check us out online and download our free iPhone app. at: www.inyourpocket.com/russia/moscow
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
9th Century: Slavic people from Ukraine and Belarus migrate into Russia, founding Veliky Novgorod, converting to Christianity, and adopting the Cyrillic alphabet. 10th – 15th Centuries: Golden Age of Kievan Rus continues until the Mongol descendants of Ghenghis Khan invade. Ivan the Great comes to power in 1462. 17th Century: Times of Troubles 1603-1613: the Swedes and Poles invade. Russia acquires new Siberian territory. First Romanov is elected Tsar. 1703: Peter the Great founds St. Petersburg, which becomes the new Russian capital in 1712 1762 – 1796: German princess Catherine the Great marries her way into the Russian royal family and launches a program of legislative and educational reform. 1812: Alexander I defeats Napoleon on Russian soil. 1861: Alexander II emancipates Russia’s serfs. 1914: WWI begins; there are enormous losses, food shortages and widespread unrest. St. Petersburg is quickly renamed Petrograd to sound less German. 1917 – 1924: Following the February and October Revolutions of 1917, Lenin’s Bolshevik Party takes control of Russia. Tsar Nicholas II and his family are murdered in 1918. Moscow becomes the capital again. Russia is plunged into a bloody civil war. St. Petersburg is renamed Petrograd and after Lenin dies in 1924, Leningrad. 1934: The worst period of Stalin’s terror begins; it lasts until 1941. 1941 – 1945: Germany attacks Russia on June 22 and the Great Patriotic War begins. After sustaining heavy losses, Russia begins to push German-forces back in 1943. Germany surrenders in 1945. 1953: Stalin dies. It’s estimated that 20 million people died as a result of his purges, camps and forced famines. In 1954, Krushchev succeeds him. 1961: Yuri Gagarin becomes the first man in space. 1979: The Soviets invade Afghanistan, and in opposition, 64 countries boycott the 1980 Moscow Summer Olympics. 1985: Gorbachev becomes General Secretary of the Communist Party and calls for reforms including perestroika (restructuring) and glasnost (openness). 1991 – 1999: Yeltsin becomes the first elected president of the Russian Federation in June. Economic crisis and instability ensues with rampant inflation and privatization shaking the country. 1999 – 2008: Native Petersburger, Vladimir Putin becomes President in March 2000. Russia becomes more stable and prosperous, thanks to gas and oil exports. 2008 – present: Medevdev becomes the third President of the Russian Federation in May, but after 4 years Vladimir Putin once more takes the Presidential seat.
Fast-paced Moskva is Russia’s political, historical and business capital and a magnet for the adventurous and ambitious from across the country and further afield. In all senses, this mega city of more than 12 million inhabitants is a melting-pot and its outstanding dining scene and vibrant nightlife reflects its cosmopolitan population. A city of contrasts, Moscow’s busy streets all bear witness to Russia’s turbulent history and dynamic future and while it’s not for the faint-hearted, the Russian capital is a cultural experience not to be missed.
Red Square The centre of Moscow and indeed the heart of Russia, Red Square has seen it all. From the mass executions of Peter the Great’s day to the huge military parades started by Stalin, not to mention the looting of Napoleon’s troops, the protests of Perestroika and a certain Paul McCartney. Every stone of every building here has a story or two to tell. Standing proud at the top of Red Square is the iconic St. Basil’s Cathedral topped by a swirl of fantastically coloured domes. At the other end you will find the State History museum which details the long and turbulent history of the nation. Shopaholics will delight in strolling round the beautiful 19th Century arcades of the GUM department store whilst the Red Square ice rink is the perfect place to let off some steam whilst enjoying the magnificent view.
The Kremlin Within the world-famous red walls of Moscow’s mighty Kremlin nestles a collection of buildings of various architectural styles, ranging from ancient Russian ecclesiastical, through Romanov imperial classicism, to 1960s Soviet modernism. Once inside the Kremlin you will be ushered towards Cathedral Square which is surrounded by four medieval churches dating back to the 15th Century as well as the grand Ivan the Great’s Bell Tower.
The Kremlin Alexandrovsky sad, MAlexandrovsky Sad, tel. (+7) 495 697 03 49, www.kreml.ru. Q Open
10:00 - 17:00, closed Thu. Admission to the Kremlin Cathedral Square 100-350Rbl. Tickets for the Kremlin Armoury 700Rbl (seances at 10.00, 12.00, 14.30, 16.30). All tickets must be bought at the ticket offices outside the Kremlin walls.
GUM Red Square, MPl. Revolutsy, tel. (+7) 495 788 43 43, www.gum.ru. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00. St. Basil’s Cathedral (Pokrovsky Sobor) Red
Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 698 33 04, www.saintbasil.ru. Q Open 11:00 - 17:00. Admission 50-250Rbl. State History Museum Red Square 1, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 692 37 31, www.shm.ru. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue. Admission 60-440Rbl.
Getting There Dozens of different night trains run to Moscow every day from Moskovsky vokzal, so there’s little excuse for not making the effort to visit. If you have less time you can also take advantage of the new super fast Sapsan train, which leaves St. Petersburg six times a day and gets you there in just under four hours. Local airlines also fly to Moscow and the journey takes about one hour. Once at one of Moscow’s three airports, hop on the aeroexpress train which brings you right to the centre.
August - September 2013
Veliky Novgorod Russian Art For visitors anxious to uncover the mysteries of the famous ‘Russian soul’ the Tretyakov Gallery is the place to start as it is the world’s number one museum of Russian art. The Tretyakov Gallery is spread across two separate buildings about a kilometre apart from each other. The ‘old’ Tretyakov covers Russian art from the 12th to 19th Centuries, beginning with exquisite and mysterious icons and ending with the politically charged and prescient canvases of Russia’s favourite realist master, Ilya Repin. The Tretyakov on Krymsky Val houses the museum’s enlightening 20th Century collection which reveals the Russian revolution and the Soviet era as the long and complex process it was, full of difficult and conflicting attitudes, ideas and stages.
Tretyakov Gallery Lavrushinsky per.10, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 13 62, www.tretyakovgallery.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 19:30. Closed Mon. Admission 70-360Rbl. English audio guide 350Rbl. PU Tretyakov Gallery at Krymsky Val Krymsky Val
10, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 499 238 13 78, www. tretyakovgallery.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 19:30. Closed Mon. Admission 100-360Rbl. English audio guide 350Rbl. PU
Literature and Theatre
Luxury Trains to Moscow If you are looking for a comfortable night train to the capital it is worth considering taking a private train. The cheerful Megapolis train leaves for Moscow every night and offers a more hotel-like travel experience. After being shown to your cabin you will find your beds have already been made up with real duvets rather than blankets, and all round the carriages are spotless. Hungry? Lucky you! Every cabin has a pile of complimentary snacks such as bread, pate and cheese, fruits, yoghurts and waffles for when you get the midnight munchies. Hot breakfast and coffee is brought to your room in the morning and if at any moment during the trip you experience some problems you can call the train attendant from the comfort of your bed and they will come to you! If you want to wake up in Moscow truly fresh in the morning, it’s worth the money. Trains leave Moskovsky vokzal (metro Pl. Vosstaniya) at 00:20 and arrive in Moscow at 09:00. For reservations call (+7) 495 35 44 11 or book online at www. megapolis-te.ru
Many of Russia’s best writers have been inspired by Moscow and the homes of Chekhov, Tolstoy, Mayakovsky and Bulgakov have been preserved as museums. Moscow was also the home of one of the greatest theatre directors of modern times Konstantin Stanislavsky and the theatre which he led is one of Moscow’s best for ballet, dance and opera. Finally of course there’s no bigger name in Russian theatre than the Bolshoi which has just been spectacularly renovated.
Enjoy the great outdoors Moscow has the most parkland of any city in Russia and during the winter months they are turned into a winter sports wonderland. For the chance to speed skate for kilometers along specially dedicated paths get down to Gorky Park, for a historic view try the rink on Red Square and to enjoy Moscow’s most historic skating pond its many mulled wine stands and live music join the crowds at the romantic Patriarch’s Ponds.
Hotels Comrade Hostel Ul. Maroseika 11, 3rd floor (go under arch to the left of the playground to find building entrance), MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 628 31 26, www. comradehostel.com. Hotel Ermitage Durasovsky per.7, bldg. 1, MKurskaya, Chkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 917 19 19, www.ermitagehotel.ru. hhh Marriott Moscow Tverskaya Ul. 1-ya TverskayaYamskaya 34, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 30 00, www.marriottmoscowtverskaya.com. hhhh Mamaison All-Suites Spa Hotel Pokrovka Ul. Pokrovka 40, bldg. 2, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495 229 57 77, www.pokrovka-moscow.com. hhhhh Medea Hotel D-4, Pyatnitsky per. 4, bldg. 1, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 232 48 98, medeya-hotel. ru. hhh
www.fb.com/MoscowInYourPocket St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Veliky Novgorod Founded in 859, Veliky or Great Novgorod is generally touted as ‘the birthplace of Russia’. It is by modern standards a very small town. After its heyday in the Middle Ages, Moscow, St. Petersburg and Kyiv took over as the leading cities in Russian culture and Novgorod became somewhat a backwater. This is no bad thing however as it has meant that much of the town and surrounding countryside has been saved from the blight of industrialisation and communist construction. Veliky Novgorod is now a world heritage listed site and alongside its famous Kremlin there are also more than 50 churches and monasteries in the region to be explored.
If you are not afraid of heights it’s also worth climbing up the Kukui tower for a view over the town and surrounding countryside. QEntrance to the Kremlin is free as is entrance to the Cathedral. Entrance to the museum and tower costs extra.
It is well worth making the short journey out of town to visit the open-air Vitoslavitsy wooden architecture museum and the neighbouring Yurievsky monastery which has an enviable position right on the banks of the Ilmen lake. QTo get there take bus number 7 or 7a and get off at the monastery. The journey should take about 20 minutes. Entrance to the monastery is free.
Sightseeing Veliky Novgorod Kremlin
The heart of Novgorod has always been the Kremlin, which is known locally by its ancient name ‘Detinets’. The first records of fortifications on this site date back to 1044, although back then most of the Kremlin was probably made of wood. The current walls and towers of the Kremlin were completed between 1484 and 1490, after the previous ones had collapsed into the river. In recent years, the whole of the fortifications, as well as most of the buildings inside the Kremlin walls, have been completely restored. Inside the Kremlin the most noteworthy sights include the impressive St. Sophia Cathedral, the Novgorod history museum and the huge Millennium of Russia monument.
Getting There By train: There are many trains a day travelling to Veliky Novgorod in around three hours. From St. Petersburg’s Moskovsky station (metro Pl. Vosstaniya) trains depart at 07:11 (Lastochka express), 08:12 and 17:00. From Vitebsky station (metro Pushkinskaya) trains depart at 07:40. Trains return to St. Petersburg at 06:15, 08:05, 18:45 (to Moskovsky station) and 18:27 (to Vitebsky station). By bus: In addition there are also numerous buses
(journey time approx 3.5 hours) a day leaving from the bus station at Obvodnogo kan. 36. Buses to St. Petersburg run hourly until 21:30. The journey takes around 3,5 hours and costs 370Rbl.
August - September 2013
Staraya Russa Restaurants and Cafes
Dostoevsky himself was deeply religious and the church he attended here, the Grigoryevsky church, is just one of a number of charming medieval churches of all shapes and colours that the town can boast. The town’s SpasoPreobrazhensky Monastery also has a few fine examples of small wooden-domed churches. The surrounding countryside, so far removed from busy St Petersburg, moved Dostoevsky - he gives Ivan Karamazov the line, “I love the sticky leaves in spring, the blue sky - that’s all it is. It’s not a matter of intellect or logic, it’s loving with one’s inside, with one’s stomach”.
Casa del Mar Ul. Velikaya 14a (on the river behind the
theatre), tel. (+7) 8162 987 000, www.casa-del-mar. ru. Getting out to this trendy boat café/bar/restaurant/club concept is quite a mission and the view through the boat’s windows is nothing to get excited about. Better stick to the internal view of over-dressed rich locals sipping on cocktails and dining on the usual European/sushi menu favourites. The food is not the best you’ll eat in Novgorod but if you’re searching for a safe Friday night experience with young upwardly mobile locals it’s probably a reliable place. Q Open Sun - Thu 12:00 - 02:00, Fri - Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €€. PTALESW
Khoroshye Lyudi Ul. Meretskova-Volosova 1/1, tel.
(+7) 8162 73 08 79, www.gonicepeople.ru. Once you’ve been to this place you won’t want to eat anywhere else - it’s just streets ahead of the other more pedestrian dining options in sleepy Novgorod. Choose from a fancy restaurant area with open kitchen, the bar or family friendly cafe to settle in and don’t worry, you can see the Kremlin from wherever you choose. The menu is a pick and mix European selection of salads and grilled meats and fish. Staff are lovely. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. €. PAW
Napoli Studencheskaya ul. 21/43, tel. (+7) 8162 636
Hotels Park Inn Veliky Novgorod Ul. Studencheskaya 2, tel. (+7) 816 294 09 10, www.parkinn.com/hotelvelikynovgorod. Novgorod‘s only four star hotel is run by the Park Inn brand and it‘s a definite step above the rest. Rooms are spacious, staff meet the professional Park Inn standard and the Beer restaurant down in the basement is one of the only good places to eat in this sleepy town and there‘s also an ‚art nightclub‘. You can also enjoy the large SPA zone with indoor pool, Russian banya, Turkish bath, Finnish and herbal saunas. Access to all this is included in the price as well as to the children‘s entertainment centre. To get there from the city centre take bus No4, 8a or 20. Q225 rooms (Prices start at 4,200Rbl). Extra bed 1,000Rbl. PTHA6FLGKDCW hhhh Volkhov Hotel Ul. Predtechenskaya 24, tel. (+7) 8162
307, www.napoli-restaurant.ru. Ok so you probably didn’t come to Veliky Novgorod to eat Italian food, but trust us this is one of the best dining options in town. The staff are polite and helpful, the food is fresh and the atmosphere is neither touristy nor provincial. As well as good pastas and wines, they also have a real stone oven in which they bake their excellent fresh bread and pizzas. It’s a bit far out so you will probably need to go there by taxi or bus 4, 8, 8a or 20. Very convenient for those staying in the Park Inn hotel. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALEBSW
Yurievskoe Podvorie Yurievskoe shosse 6a, tel. (+7)
8162 946 066, www.tk-podvorie.ru. Seated inside what looks like a fairytale Russian wooden hut, you’ll be served excellent blini, pelmeni (dumplings) and borsch by angelic looking wait staff in traditional costume. The place is very popular with tour groups, which brings down the rustic aroma a little, but they do offer a lot of Novgorodian specialities such as local soup recipes and ‘sbiten’ (a hot drink made of various herbs and spices) which are definitely worth making the effort for. A very good value place to eat before or after visiting the Vitoslavlitsy museum, Yuriev monastery and surrounding countryside. Also has a mini-hotel. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €. PTAULEGBSW
225 505, www.hotel-volkhov.ru. A great option for a short sightseeing trip or longer business trip as it’s one of the most central hotels in town and just 5 minutes walk from the Kremlin. The rooms, although a little frilly, look far more cared for than many other hotels in Novgorod and the whole place has a lot more of an international feel than you’d expect in a small Russian town. There’s plenty of facilities including one of the only saunas in town. Q129 rooms (Room prices start at 2,200Rbl). Extra bed 850Rbl. HALGKDCW hhh
Old Russian legend tells us of two brothers Rus and Sloven, who, four millennia ago, set off from the Black Sea to found a new homeland; Sloven created Veliky Novgorod, whilst Rus’s town on the other side of Lake Ilmen went on to become Staraya Russa. The town, of course, isn’t quite that old, having been founded somewhere around the 10th century, but is nonetheless one of Russia’s oldest cities. Its architecture reflects its heydays as a major player in the salt trade and wealthy city of the Novgorod Republic, and again as a fashionable 19th century spa resort. In tune with urbanisation in general, the town’s population is shrinking; but this is a receding tide that Staraya Russa has seen more than once before and one that may yet turn, whilst in the meantime the town is a sleepy slice of Russia’s history. It has always attracted guests from far and wide. Sometimes these were less than welcome visitors, in the form of Swedish armies, marauding gangs in the Time of Troubles before the Romanovs took power, or Hitler’s forces who nearly razed the city to the ground. In other more peaceful times of the the city these were aristocrats come to drink the town’s rejuvenating spring water. Today, it draws in visitors who seek to trace the footsteps of one of Russia’s greatest writers, Fyodor Mikhailovich Dostoevsky. On the recommendation of friends he and his wife chose Staraya Russa as the spot for their summer dacha. Here, Dostoevsky could escape the suffocating streets of Petersburg and the temptation to gamble, an addiction that had drained his finances and health. Both of them soon fell in love with the spot: the quiet streets, rivers and meadows gave the writer the space he needed to write, whilst the town’s buildings and characters served as inspiration. His masterpiece The Brothers Karamazov was written in their small house here and set in an almost identical fictional town. On the opposite bank from the Dostoevskys’ house is a building known as ‘Grushenka’s House’, so named after the character in the Brothers Karamazov, for whom the house’s former occupant Agrippina Menshova supposedly served as a prototype. Though today it is still a private house, postmen will still bring here envelopes addressed to ‘Grushenka’s House’.
Dostoevsky House Museum in Staraya Russa
Staraya Russa, nab. Dostoevskogo 42, tel. (+7) 816 525 14 77, www.novgorodmuseum.ru. This modest green and white wooden building stands on the riverbank and was the first house Dostoevsky himself ever bought. The museum has restored and preserved the Dostoevskys‘ dacha as it once was, with the ‚old fashioned, heavy red wood furniture and the surroundings‘ in which they, in Anna Dostoevskaya‘s words, ‚lived so warmly and cosily‘, along with many of the great writer‘s books, photographs and other possessions.
Polist Hotel Staraya Russa, ul. Engelsa 20, tel. (+7)
81652 375 47, www.polist-tour.ru. This hotel in Staraya Russa is named after one of the town‘s three rivers. This Western-standard hotel is generally considered to be the best in town. Its restaurant is also among the best in Staraya Russa. Though nothing fancy to look at from the outside, it looks out onto the city‘s historical centre, which is probably the way round you‘d rather have it. Each room has all mod cons and, shiny frilly bedsheets aside, is fully up to modern standards and well shot of any Soviet hangover. Q47 rooms (Room prices start at 1,400Rbl). PTAKSwW
Getting There From St. Petersburg:
There are numerous buses (journey takes 5.5 hours) a day leaving from the bus station at Obvodnogo kan. 36 (metro Baltiskaya) at 14:30 and 16:30 (daily) and at 08:45 (only Fri, Sat, Sun). From Moskovsky station (metro Pl. Vosstaniya) you can take a nighttrain, it departs at 00:40 and arrives to Staraya Russa at 10:02.
Krasnaya Izba Tourist Information Office The lovely girls at Krasnaya Izba can provide you with advice on just about everything to do in Novgorod. They have a 24hrs. hotline that you can call if you still find that you are constantly lost. Tel. (+7) 8162 998 686. Central office at Sennaya pl. 5. www.visitnovgorod.ru
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
From Veliky Novgorod:
There are numerous buses a day leaving from the central bus station at Oktyabrskaya ul. 1 (trip takes 2 hours).
August - September 2013
Yaroslavl Yaroslavl Sitting at the point where the mighty Volga river meets the smaller Kotorsol, Yaroslavl is a prosperous town dating back to 1010, which is rightly often referred to as the capital of the Golden Ring. Famed for its beautiful river side promenade, medieval churches and frescoes Yaroslavl boasts a UNESCO protected city centre, filled with 18th and 19th Century Russian architecture, such as huge, ancient gates and towers. In addition to its pristine architectural sights, Yaroslavl also has a fine art museum and a wealth of historic treasures on show in the main monastery. Perfect for a relaxing city break, Yaroslavl can easily be seen in a weekend, while if you have an extra day or two it’s a good starting point for a trip to the picturesque river ports of Kostroma and Plyos, which are just a 1,5hr bus ride away.
Samara is one of Russia’s forgotten gems, often overlooked by westerners. Located on the Volga River, it has been a critical trade route and strategic location throughout history and played a crucial role in modern Russia. It was the home of famous Russian figures such as the writer Maxim Gorky, revolutionary leader Vladimir Lenin and space pioneer Sergey Korolev. During World War II, many factories and industries were evacuated to Samara, which served as the second capital to the besieged Soviet Union, and it became a centre for industry and culture. Consequently, many designs for late model World War II Soviet aircraft were developed in Samara, as was the Soviet Union’s space rocket research programme headed by Sergey Korolev. Samara’s aerospace industry is one of the most advanced in the world. For much of the Cold War, Samara was a closed city, isolated from Western influences, and because of that, it offers a different insight into Russian culture and society. It also became the refuge for Guy Burgess and Donald Maclean, who were part of the infamous “Cambridge Five” spy ring that provided information to the Soviet government during World War II. Samara is a modern and developed Russian city. Museums, modern art galleries and restaurants offer tourists a startling array of culture, history and experience. The night life is dynamic, playing music from classic rock to contemporary pop.
Alabin Historical Museum Leninskaya ul. 142, tel.
Hotels Ibis Samara Novo-Sadovaya ul. 160D, bldg. 3, MRos-
siyskaya, tel. (+7) 846 339 68 50, www.ibishotel. com. A short walk through a park from the banks of the impressive Volga River will bring you to this Ibis Hotel. Not far from the city centre, it is an ideal place to start exploring Samara, while being assured of the well-known service and quality of this Accor hotel. Throughout the hotel you can use free Wi-Fi, and all rooms have air conditioning. This is a very welcome addition to Samara. Q304 rooms (Room prices start at 2,500Rbl). Extra bed 1,000Rbl. Breakfast (380Rbl) not included. PTHA6LGKW
Getting There By Train: There are 2 trains a day travelling to Samara. The journey takes between 31 and 40 hours depending on which train you take. From St. Petersburg’s Moskovsky station (metro Pl. Vosstaniya) trains depart at 18:21 and 22:29 and arrive in Samara in the morning (09:23 and 05:20 correspondingly). By plane: There are two flights a day from St. Petersburg to Samara. The flights take around 2 hours 20 minutes. St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
(+7) 846 333 70 15, www.alabin.ru. The Alabin Historical Museum has a collection of 180,000 items relating to the full spectrum of Russian history and natural sciences. It includes archaeological, mineralogical, zoological, botanical and ethnographic collections, and on display are, among other things, coin collections, rare books and weaponry from Russia, Western Europe and the Middle East. The museum also has a display relating to the history of Samara (Kuibyshev) during WWII. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Kuznetsov Centre for the History of Aviation Engines Moskovskoe shosse 34, bldg 14, tel. (+7) 846
267 43 75. The Kuznetsov Centre for the History of Aviation Engines has the world‘s largest collection of Russian aircraft engines. The collection dates to the establishment of Samara State Aero-Space University founded in 1942. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Lenin’s House Museum Leninskaya ul. 131-135,
tel. (+7) 846 333 68 58. Located in a late 19th century merchant mansion the museum preserves items of the period of Lenin‘s stay in Samara in 1890-93. It portrays the atmosphere and the material life of an intellectual family of this period. The museum also has a zone for temporary exhibitions. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
Samara Art Museum Ul. Kuibysheva 92, tel. (+7) 846
332 33 09, www.artmus.ru. The Samara Art Museum has a fine collection of Russian art going back to the 18th century. However, its modern art exhibitions include some of the finest art produced in the 20th century by Russian and western artists. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue. Admission 40 - 80Rbl.
Stalin’s bunker Ul. Frunze 167, tel. (+7) 846 333 35
71. When Germany invaded the Soviet Union in 1941 they advanced so rapidly that by 15 October 1941 their forces were only 16 km from the Moscow Kremlin. The Soviet Government decided to evacuate to Samara (known as Kuibyshev from 1935 to 1990). Consequently a bunker was prepared for Stalin in Samara. The bunker was a precise copy of Stalin‘s Moscow bunker and was completed at a rapid pace, being ready on 1 November 1942. The top secret facility was hermetically sealed and located 35 m underground. It was designed to be fully autonomous for five whole days in event of bombing raids and gas attacks. The bunker used the first air reusing system in the Soviet Union and had a large store of fresh food and water with two escape exits. The bunker now houses an exhibition on World War II. Q Open 11:00 - 15:00, closed Sat, Sun. Admission 40 - 80Rbl.
Hotels Ibis Yaroslavl Center Pervomaysky per. 2a, tel. (+7) 4852 59 29 00, www.ibishotel.com. Opened in October 2011, the new Ibis brings much needed quality budget accommodation to Yaroslavl. The building is brand new and all the rooms have been fixed up to the Ibis brand standard. The location is perfect. Dead in the city centre, but situated just off the busiest streets to ensure a quiet night‘s sleep. Q177 rooms (Room prices start at 2,500Rbl). Extra bed 1,000Rbl. Breakfast not included (380Rbl). PTHA6ULGBKW hhh
Sightseeing Assumption Cathedral (Uspensky Sobor) Kotorol-
naya nab. 2a, www.yareparhia.ru. The first wooden cathedral was built here in 1215, destroyed by fire it was then rebuilt in the 16th Century and was completely destroyed again in the 20th Century by the Soviets. In 2005 it was decided to rebuild the cathedral once again and in an astonishing feat of construction the huge building was completed in just five years.
Church of St. Elijiah the Prophet (Ilya Prorok)
Sovetskaya pl. 7. The interiors here are easily some of the most bright and beautiful you will see in all of Russia. Frescoes, with a distinct blue which is typical to the Golden Ring region, cover every possible surface, soaring all over the walls and roofs and telling well known stories from the Bible. The church‘s amazing acoustics also add to the enchanting historic feeling of the place. Q Open 08:30 - 19:30.
Monument to our Lady of Kazan Kotoroslnaya nab.
26 (in front of the Our Saviour and Transfiguration monastery). This modern bell tower in front of the monastery was placed here in 1997 to commemorate the place where Minin and Pozhakrsky and their assembled army set off to oust the Poles from Russia in 1612. Now famous due its place on the 1,000 Rouble note it has become a popular spot for Russian tourists and wedding parties to take photos.
Spaso-Preobrazhensky (Transfiguration of the Saviour) monastery museum reserve Bogoyav-
lenskaya pl. 25, tel. (+7) 4852 30 38 69, www.yarmp. yar.ru. Yaroslavl’s most important monastery dates back to the 13th Century. All but destroyed during a fire in 1501, the monastery as you see it today was mostly built in the 16th Century. For centuries it was one of the biggest monasteries in Russia and by 1764 it owned vast amounts of land and had some 14,000 serfs. Almost every Tsar in history visited the monastery and it was behind its formidable walls that Minin and Pozharsky prepared their citizen’s army before sailing down the Volga to help defeat the Poles.
Volzhskaya Naberezhnaya (Volga Embankment).
Walking along the tree-lined river embankments is the favourite past time of the locals at any time of the year and the view of the Volga on one side and the many historical buildings on the other is delightful. Along the way you will pass dozens of (mostly 16th Century) churches, as well as the spit (strelka) which juts out at the point where two rivers meet. In the summer there are dancing fountains on the strelka. Further along the Kotorsol river side of the embankment there is a large beach and a rickety amusement park. The whole embankment route is kilometers long - and fortunately there are numerous cafes to rest en route.
Getting There There are four trains a day travelling to Yaroslavl. The journey takes between 12 and 21 hours depending on which train you take. From St. Petersburg’s Moskovsky station (metro Pl. Vosstaniya) trains depart at 17:40, 18:21 and 21:07. From Ladozhsky station (metro Ladozhskaya) trains depart at 16:45.
August - September 2013
sochi Teremki Landyshevaya ul. 19, tel. (+7) 918 915 38 02, www.teremki-sochi.ru. Staying in these wooden houses, which can accommodate either 4 or 6 people, is a pleasure. The owners are friendly and know what hospitality is (they speak English!). Located in the northern Mamayka district, it’s a 15 minute bus drive from Sochi’s train station (when there are no traffic jams). Q House for rent from 5,000Rbl depending on house type andf the amount of guests. 5 days minimum. PTLDCW Tulip Inn Rosa Khutor Hotel Krasnaya Polyana, Esto-
Sochi Covered with palm trees and blessed with a subtropical climate, Sochi is one of the best places to stay in Russia especially if you like warm climates. Furthermore, the Black Sea city is the host of the Winter Olympics in 2014. However, foreigners should be aware that Sochi is still not used to flocks of foreign tourists. It is mainly Russians, and citizens of former Soviet republics, who populate the beaches and explore the Caucasus Mountains. With ten thousand residents, a small expat community is working hard to prepare Sochi for the Olympics. During summer temperatures in Sochi vary between 25 and 30 degrees Celsius. For example, in the first week of May this year, the In Your Pocket staff enjoyed a temperature of 23 degrees. The winters are mild: by the coast the temperatures are around 5-10 degrees, or even higher. In the mountains, where the ski resorts are located, temperatures are much lower in winter, and there you can enjoy a good ski holiday. Often there is snow and ice until May. However, mild winters, with a huge shortage of snow, can also happen.
Getting There Train or plane? A quick or slow journey? If you choose the Russian railway, make sure your train will travel along the 145km long Black Sea coast during the day, preferably in the morning. It is then that you will almost certainly spot dolphins swimming in the sea, whilst you have breakfast in your carriage. This is an amazing sight, as we can say from experience. By train: At least 3 trains per day travel from Moscow to Sochi. In summer the number increases to 10 per day. The trains leave from different train stations (al though most leave from Kazansk y station) so check carefully. The fastest train – which is also the most expensive and luxurious - is the Sochi Premium which brings you to Sochi in exactly 24 hours. Other trains will take up to 38 hours. From St. Petersburg there are 3 direct trains to Sochi during summer, and one in winter. They leave from Mosvkovsky station or Ladozhsky station. The journey from St. Petersburg takes between 37 and 57 hours. By plane: Russian airlines, such as Aeroflot, S7 and Transaero offer daily flights to Sochi. Flights from Moscow take around 2 hours 20 minutes, and flights from St. Petersburg take approximately 3 hours 30 minutes.
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
45km away from the Black Sea lies Krasnaya Polyana, a famous ski resort located at a height of 560 meters above sea level. The mountain tops have modern ski-facilities which reach heights of more than 2300 meters. Krasnaya Polyana will host the Olympic skiing, snowboarding and ski-jumping. Sochi and its surrounding region finally became part of Russia 150 years ago, in 1864, after decades of war with the Turkish (Ottoman) empire and tribes living in the Caucasus highlands. The royal nobility loved the region, with its healthy water springs, and the first Russian sanatoriums were built along the coast. After the Russian revolution in 1917, the working class received rights for holidays, promoted by Lenin. Sochi became the favourite holiday destination of Stalin and he visited the Black Sea for a few weeks every year. You can visit his dacha in Sochi, which is located near many other Soviet sightseeing spots, such as the Lenin mosaic. In the 1960s, Sochi, and the whole Black Sea coast, was developed in to one big holiday resort. Forbidden to travel abroad, 50 million Russians went to Sochi every year, and the region was known by then as the Russian Riviera. With the fall of the Soviet Union, and the possibility of cheap holidays to Egypt or Spain, Sochi decayed in the 1990’s and the region’s economy suffered hard. When Putin, a sport enthusiast and big fan of skiing at Sochi’s Krasnaya Polyana, became the president of Russia in 2000, the resurrection and face-lift of Sochi began. In 2007 the city won the bid to stage the Winter Olympics in 2014, and so far 50 billion Euros has been invested in new facilities, sport stadiums and high-speed railways.
sadok, Rosa Khutor Alpine Ski Resort, tel. (+7) 862 243 00 00, www.tulipinnrosakhutor.com. Tulip Inn, unusually in Russia, manages to bat above its official ranking; for a three-star hotel it delivers service closer to four-star, and the helpful, obliging and multi-lingual staff do an excellent job in keeping guests happy. It also has, by reputation, the best bar in Rosa Khutor - although, that said, it is still a fairly basic hotel bar. Part of an international chain, the hotel wears its Dutch influences lightly, with the Amsterdam restaurant offering a mixture of local and European cuisine. Room rates typically start around 3600 rubles (85 Euros) a night. The company is planning to open a second hotel on-site under its Golden Tulip (4*) branding in time for the Winter Olympics. Q148 rooms (Room prices start st 3,800Rbl). PTA6U� FLGKDwW
Zhemchuzhina Hotel Complex Chernomorskaya ul. 3, tel. (+7) 862 266 11 88, www.zhem.ru. Its name means pearl, and this giant one was inherited from the Soviet Union, but its appearance doesn’t live up to its name. The plus side is that the beach is within walking distance. Q956 rooms (Room prices start at 5,300Rbl). PTA6UFL� GKDCwW
Restaurants Brigantina Neserbskaya ul. 3, tel. (+7) 918 608 71 11,
www.sochicatering.com. This is the best place for food, according to foreigners who frequently visit or live in Sochi. This French-owned restaurant overlooks the harbour, has outdoor tables, and the menu of seafood and grilled meats are irresistible.QOpen 08:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 24hrs.. €€. PTASW
Chaika Ul. Voikova 1, tel. (+7) 862 241 81 64. The old port is going through a renovation and you can now dine and sip cappuccino in the former classic-style Sea Terminal. The Moscow prices are worth paying to experience the splendid view over the Black Sea and its port from the outdoor terrace. Don’t forget to visit Chaika’s toilet to get an inside look at the port building.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALSW
Sochi has plenty of hotels, although many are under construction, especially in the city centre. The city and its region have a long tradition of locals offering private rooms, complete apartments and B&Bs for low prices. This was even allowed during Soviet times, and many Sochi citizens made a living out of it. However, if you don’t understand Russian, it will be hard to find them on the internet.
Tinkoff Primorskaya ul. 19, tel. (+7) 862 225 52 02,
Grand hotel & SPA Rodina Vinogradnaya ul. 33, tel. (+7) (862) 253 90 00, www.grandhotelrodina.ru. At around 1000 Euros per night, this former sanatorium is the most expensive place to stay in Sochi. Complete with a great spa, it is bad for your wallet, but good for relaxation! Here you will meet Moscow’s upper class. Indeed, it is very luxurious, and you will even have your own private Black Sea beach. Q40 rooms (Room prices start at 37,000Rbl). PHA6ULGKDCSwW
Vostochny Kvartal Primorskaya ul. 7, tel. (+7) 862
www.tinkof.ru. This Russian famous brewery restaurant has opened a three-storey hang-out at the beach - with excellent views over the Black Sea. Here you can watch sports or listen to live music on the top floor terrace, while enjoying food and drinks. This is an excellent place to pass days and nights. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PALVESW 266 10 99, www.vkvartal-sochi.ru. According to locals, this is the best place in town to tuck in to Caucasian food, and we were not disappointed. This huge place offers all the wellknown dishes; the ones unknown to the Caucasian kitchen, as well as the more addictive ones: khachapuri (cheese bread), shashliks (kebabs), lobio (kidney beans with onions and spices) and much more. There is also live music!QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. €€. PTAESW
Ski Resort Krasnaya Polyana Sochi’s summer charms have been the stuff of legend for generations of Soviet holidaymakers – but the challenge for 2014 has been to transform those beaches and sanatoriums into a year-round resort with top notch ski facilities. That process has put the name of Krasnaya Polyana (Red Meadow) firmly on the world’s sporting map. The once unassuming town lies on the slower slopes of the Caucasus mountains, about 60km from Sochi’s airport, set amid magnificent scenery. It’s a long way south, so the ski runs are high up on those slopes – a network of cable cars stretches its tentacles out of the Rosa Khutor resort complex and whisks skiers through a 20-minute botany class, starting in damp deciduous woodland before emerging into sparkling, snowy coniferous forest. During the ski season (relatively brief, from late December to April, but staff say the last two years have seen snow well into April) it can be a breathtaking transformation; in summer the whole region is home to walkers, hikers and other lovers of the great outdoors. In the valley of the Mzymta river, Rosa Khutor is establishing itself as a resort with an alpine accent. Its cluster of hotels has a European look to it, while the town square’s slightly Dutch architecture perhaps reflects the role of the Golden Tulip chain in developing the site. Off-piste entertainment is mostly confined to hotel bars, although there is a small ice-rink and a scattering of bars and restaurants available. A regular bus route (N o105) connects the resort with Krasnaya Polyana proper, the Aeroexpress terminal for trains to the airport, and downtown Sochi back on the coast. This autumn, the high-speed train will have daily services from Adler train station directly to the Krasnaya Polyana ski resort. The new railway is a fabulous route through the mountains.
Pomegranate Explosive! Try this freshly squeezed juice upon arrival in Sochi to boost your energy. You will see it being sold everywhere, at the local markets, and even along the beaches. Special juicing machines have been made to crush the pomegranates (you can buy one of these machines for 8000rbl or 200 Euros). Full of antioxidants, the fruit’s red blood is a blessing for tongue and soul. At the main market they even sell a version with alcohol, a kind of pomegranate wine.
August - September 2013
Kazan Popularly referred to as Russia’s third capital, Kazan is the city (as their official slogan states) ‘Where Europe meets Asia’. As the capital of the Russian Republic of Tatarstan, Kazan mixes a rich Muslim Tatar culture - with its own language and government - with Western Slavic influences and is famous for being a particularly religiously tolerant and friendly city. The undisputed must-see attraction in Kazan is the UNESCO listed Kremlin and in particular its famous mosque and the Hermitage Kazan centre. After you’ve visited the Kremlin make sure to take a walk down Ulitsa Kremlevskaya to admire the city’s 19th Century mansions, pop into the stunning Peter and Paul Cathedral along the way and then enjoy a lazy stroll along the pedestrianised Ulitsa Baumana which is full of cafes, bars and restaurants to rest up in. Download our Instant Guide at kazan.inyourpocket.com.
Kazan Kremlin The pride of Kazan is its impressive Kremlin which boasts both a beautiful new mosque and an Orthodox cathedral. The Kremlin is also the centre of the Tatar government and houses the official residence of the President of the Republic of Tatarstan. Other highlights of the Kremlin include the Hermitage Centre which has regular exhibitions from St. Petersburg’s Hermitage Museum. You can also climb the Kremlin walls behind the mosque, where there are also many vendors selling local souvenirs.
Getting There By Train: From St. Petersburg there is only one direct train a day which leaves from Moskovsky station (metro Pl. Vosstaniya). The journey takes approximately 22 hours and leaves St. Petersburg at 16:13 arriving in Kazan the next day at 14:02. From Moscow there are six trains a day which travel to Kazan and beyond. The journey takes between 11 and 14 hours depending on which train you take and all trains leave Moscow in the evening and arrive in Kazan in the early morning. Trains leave from Kazansky station (metro Komsomolskaya). By Plane: Russian airlines Aeroflot, Transaero and S7
are the main (and safest) airlines offering international transfers to Kazan. Air France and Etihad Air also offer flights to Kazan via Moscow. Flights from Moscow take around 1 hour 20 minutes and the airport is a 30 minutes drive from the city centre. Taxis from/to the airport should cost around 800Rbl. There are no direct flights to Kazan from St. Petersburg although all of the above mentioned companies offer connecting flights via Moscow.
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Annunciation Cathedral Kremlin, MKremlevskaya, tel. (+7) 843 567 80 73, www.kazan-kremlin.ru. Erected between 1556 and 1562, this is Kazan’s most important cathedral and the home of the holiest copy of the Our Lady of Kazan icon, which was presented to the city by Pope John Paul II in 2005. The cathedral, which was built in a style similar to that of the Assumption cathedral in the Moscow Kremlin, was destroyed many times by fire over the centuries and following the Bolshevik revolution it suffered yet more damage as the Soviets destroyed the bell tower and other ecclesiastical buildings which surrounded it. Be sure to pass behind the Cathedral to admire the spectacular view over the river. Hermitage Kazan Centre Kremlin, MKremlevskaya, tel. (+7) 843 567 80 32, www.kazan-kremlin.ru. Opened with the help of the Hermitage museum, this cultural centre regularly plays host to historical and art exhibitions brought especially to Kazan from St. Petersburg’s great Hermitage museum. Names such as Velazquez and Goya feature alongside the stunning art, and there is also a large dedication to traditional Spanish crafts such as lace-making, carved bone, bronze and silver artistry, weaponry, pottery and glasswork. Qul Sharif Mosque Kremlin, MKremlevskaya, tel.
(+7) 843 567 80 01, www.kazan-kremlin.ru. In the 16th Century prior to the invasion of Kazan a mosque stood here which was named after its leading teacher Qol Sharif. Qol Sharif died alongside his students trying to save the mosque from the Tsar’s forces, but unfortunately it was destroyed in 1522 and for centuries the site remained empty. Following the fall of the Soviet Union, with the help of many other counties including Saudi Arabia and UAE, the mosque was rebuilt, albeit in a modern style. The impressive new mosque was finally inaugurated in 2005 when Kazan celebrated its millennium and now stands as a prominent symbol of the city, rightly recognised as one of Kazan’s most worthy sights as well as Europe’s largest mosque.
Hotels Courtyard by Marriott Kazan Kremlin Ul. Karla
Marksa 6, MKremlevskaya, tel. (+7) 843 567 40 00, www.kazancourtyard.ru. Q150 rooms (Room prices start at 3,900Rbl). PTHAUFGBKW hhhh Ibis Kazan Centre Hotel Pravo-Bulachnaya ul. 43/1, MPloshchad Tukaya, tel. (+7) 843 567 58 00, www.ibishotel.com. Q155 rooms (Room prices start at 2,000Rbl). PHA6ULKW hhh Park Inn Kazan Ul. Lefgasta 9-11, MPloshchad Tukaya, tel. (+7) 843 235 23 54, www.kazan.parkinn.ru. Q151 rooms (Room prices start at 3,500Rbl). PHA6UFL� GKW hhhh