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hangouts. But the Danes are early eaters: if you rock up at 9pm, as we did, you might feel somewhat like you’ve missed the party. That said, it’s nice to be able to enjoy a night out which doesn’t involve queuing/booking 18 months in advance – except, of course, if you want to pull up a chair at the likes of Noma. When it comes to Michelin-starred eateries, diners are spoilt for choice. If you can’t get a seat at the world-renowned restaurant, there are another 14 to choose from. I keep things closer to home by lunching at d’Angleterre’s Marchal, which usurped Geranium as best restaurant of the year in Denmark last year. The fried zander with pearl barley risotto and lumpfish roe, and the caramel ice cream with milk snow, cooked by head chef Ronny Emborg, are works of art. I had high hopes, though, from the moment I sat down to my first breakfast at the hotel. You can tell a lot about the calibre of someone’s cooking from their eggs, and those I sample could, I suspect, give Delia a run for her money. My short stay in Copenhagen turns out to be the most relaxing city break I’ve ever been on. There are galleries, castles, a brewery and sites aplenty to see, but these don’t feel as obligatory as waiting in the hour-long queue for the Sagrada Família in Barcelona, or standing on tip-toes to get a glimpse of the Mona Lisa at the Louvre; for the sightseer Copenhagen is a less daunting prospect. Of the places of interest we did visit, I would recommend the National Gallery of Denmark. Spanning 700 years of art from across Europe, the magnificent old museum building dates back to 1896 and boasts an impressive modernist glass extension. The Torvehallerne food market isn’t too far away either, so head there afterwards to eat cinnamon buns like a local – albeit one that will be addressed in word-perfect English by everyone you meet before you barely even open your mouth. The best way to get a real sense of the geography of the city and how it has evolved over the centuries is by boat. Guided tours take in the numerous sights dotted around Copenhagen’s shoreline. The biggest

disappointment is actually the famous Little Mermaid statue, based on Hans Christian Andersen’s legendary fairy tale, which is disappointingly small. Not even the filter-power of Instagram can make it look impressive. If you’re feeling intrepid, hop off at Christianhavn for a trip to Christiania, a kaleidoscopic hippy commune founded in 1971. For an eye-opening experience, take a walk along the community’s socalled Green Light District. The rest of Christianhaven island is a pretty grid of canals. I recommend popping into Lagkagehuset bakery to sample some traditional Danish pastries or, for something more substantial, the open sandwiches and Danish beer on offer at the quaint Rabes Have, Copenhagen’s oldest pub, make it well worth hunting out. If I had to describe the city in a nutshell, I’d veer towards laidback, but with an efficient streak. The land of Lego, Bang & Olufsen and Carlsberg has the work-life balance down to a T. Little wonder then that Copenhagen has scooped the title of most liveable city, awarded by Monocle magazine, three times. And, as I reflect on my journey to the airport – a painless 15-minute metro ride from the station, 30 seconds from the hotel – Copenhagen is the hardest (but easiest) place to leave. n

 NEED TO KNOW  Rooms start from £290 per night for a deluxe guestroom and include breakfast +45 3312 0095; dangleterre.com; lhw.com For more information about Copenhagen, visit visitcopenhagen.com If you plan on visiting lots of attractions, get a Copenhagen Card which gives you free admission to 75 museums and sights, as well as metro, train and bus travel within greater Copenhagen, copenhagencard.com

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Vantage Magazine June 2015  

Welcome to the June edition of The Vantage magazine, celebrating the dynamism of the area and bringing you the latest features, articles and...

Vantage Magazine June 2015  

Welcome to the June edition of The Vantage magazine, celebrating the dynamism of the area and bringing you the latest features, articles and...

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