WINTER WINTERSALE SALE
10. Editor’s letter 12. Five minutes with... Pretty Ballerinas designer Ursula Mascaro 14. The agenda
58. Material world How science is helping the fashion industry to be more sustainable 65. Style him 66. Mark Francis Vandelli The sartorial rulebook of Chelsea’s most dapper gent
16. Profile Sophia Webster’s first jewellery collection
70. Beauty news
18. Spotlight Turning the pages of this season’s top style bibles
26. Meryl Streep The actress on power dressing and playing pioneering women
24. Art news
32. Jewellery news 33. Objects of desire
71. Spa review Dermalogica’s new store
77. Fresh perspective A nutrition boost at Camilla Fayed’s Farmacy restaurant 78. Edible ensembles Food meets fashion in a new book by Rizzoli 83. Travel news 84. Ferragamo’s Florence See the city through the eyes of Salvatore Ferragamo
property 93. Luxury homes in the Royal Borough
interiors 73. Interior news
high life 76. Food news
34. Carbon copy Discover Silicon Valley’s synthetic diamonds 40. Inside SIHH Fashion week for watches
fashion 44. Style her
48. Fashion shoot
From the MARCH 2018
Editor Lauren Romano Contributing Editor Hannah Lemon
HAUTE HEROES A trio of new tomes has been released celebrating the trajectory of three significant male leads in the world of couture: Paolo Roversi, Olivier Theyskens and Loris Azzaro
Associate Editor Camilla Apcar Assistant Editors Ellen Millard Marianne Dick Jewellery Editor Mhairi Graham Watch Editor Richard Brown Art Editor Laddawan Juhong Production Alice Ford Jamie Steele Hugo Wheatley General Manager Fiona Smith Commercial Director Andrew Turner Executive Director Sophie Roberts Managing Director Eren Ellwood
spotlight KIMOJA ENSEMBLE, S/S 1997 HAUTE COUTURE COLLECTION BY JOHN GALLIANO, W MAGAZINE, APRIL 1997, IMAGE ©PAOLO ROVERSI
RIGHT: MONACO DRESS, S/S 1959 HAUTE COUTURE COLLECTION, LONGUE LINE BY YVES SAINT LAURENT, IMAGE ©PAOLO ROVERSI; BELOW: JUNON DRESS, A/W 1949 HAUTE COUTURE COLLECTION , MILIEU DU SIÈCLE LINE BY CHRISTIAN DIOR, STYLIST GRACE CODDINGTON, IMAGE ©PAOLO ROVERSI
WORDS: MARIANNE DICK
“I always say that the DESIGNER is the COMPOSER of the music, and the PHOTOGRAPHER plays the instrument”
Paolo Roversi A new publication from Rizzoli documents the Italian photographer’s partnership with Dior, and includes handwritten notes from the man himself to models, magazine editors and the house’s creative directors through the years. All three volumes contain his rarely seen interpretations of the fashion house’s cutting-edge creations. Roversi is known for his mastery of the labour intensive Polaroid process. It enabled him to move away from the realism of snapping silhouettes and strip down a tableau to its essence – a technique he describes as capturing “a kind of absence”.
Dior Images: Paolo Roversi, by Paolo Roversi, text by Emanuele Coccia. Published 27 February by Rizzoli, £95, rizzoliusa.com
– Paolo Roversi
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“Fashions fade, style is eternal” - Yves Saint Laurent
The fashion industry is the ultimate chameleon of reinvention: shedding its skin and parading its latest guise on the catwalk with every passing season. Exciting as it is to chase after S/S18’s plaid checks, power shorts, and erm, bum bags, it all comes at a cost: not just to our pockets, but to the planet. As London Fashion Week approaches, we unearth the industry’s dirty secret and reveal how science could help to grow all manner of luxury materials in the lab, from leather and silk (p.58) to dazzling diamonds (p.34). Elsewhere in this issue, Meryl Streep holds forth on power dressing for the red carpet (p.26); Made in Chelsea’s Mark Francis Vandelli shares the secret to his dapper trademark style (p.66); and we do ‘shots’ with former Harrods heiress Camilla Fayed at her Westbourne Grove restaurant, Farmacy (p.77). Her antioxidant-packed, charcoal-infused tonics are admittedly an acquired taste – but then again, so are those Moschino bum bags...
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My grandfather started manufacturing shoes 100 years ago for local dancers. My father later developed the idea of adding a sole onto a traditional ballet shoe, and the Pretty Ballerinas fashion range was established [in 2005]. He was always thinking of new ideas for products.
I studied a course in interior design in Milan, where I was surrounded by art and culture. I took lots
Since then, we have become more technological and more international. However, the creative process and the craftsmanship have hardly changed; we try to mix the best of the old traditions with the best of the new.
We have a 500-strong team of employees, 185 of which are based in our factory in Menorca. It takes about four weeks to create a Pretty Ballerinas shoe – each shoe goes through 70 different processes and 70 pairs of hands.
of inspiration from my surroundings, which led me to a career as a designer in the fashion world.
5 minutes with...
Ursula Mascaro The third generation cobbler and Pretty Ballerinas designer on the brand’s new Olivia Palermo collection and the centenary of her family’s business as told to: Ellen Millard
Clockwise from main image: Ursula Mascaro; Ella shoes with diamonds and pearls; leopard print clutch bag; ella birds of paradise shoes; olivia palermo, image ©Mario Sierra; Christy trainers; Birds of paradise clutch; aqua clutch
I find inspiration every day in all aspects of my life. I’m always looking for ideas, whether I’m travelling or at work – everywhere that I see smartly dressed people.
My favourite Pretty Ballerinas shoe is the Ella pointed mule. It elongates the leg and is so much fun. Our most successful styles have been the Marilyn and the Rosario – they are both classic styles that suit everyone. They look chic whatever the occasion.
Olivia Palermo was a natural fit for our S/S18 campaign. She has been a great supporter of the Pretty Ballerinas brand.
The first Pretty Ballerinas shop opened in London in 2007. The brand has always had a connection there. It is also where I first learned English. Whenever I visit the city, I like to shop at Joseph, Whistles, Liberty and Harvey Nichols. London is the fashion capital of the world. 309a King’s Road, SW3, prettyballerinas.co.uk
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1 ISABEL POLLEN AND JIM STURGEON IN BRIEF ENCOUNTER
3 CITY OF STARS
2 IN THE PICTURE See if you can spot the next Tracey Emin or Damien Hirst at the Affordable Art Fair, which will host talks, workshops and a print studio among the contemporary works. From £10, 8-11 March, Battersea Park, SW11, affordableartfair.com
petal power Namecheck some of Thailand’s 1,100 native species of orchid at Kew Gardens’ Princess of Wales Conservatory as part of its 23rd annual Orchid Festival. Delicate blooms are suspended from the ceiling and hang from arches, while four soundscapes will transport visitors to Thailand’s vibrant streets. From £16, until 11 March, Kew Gardens, TW9, kew.org
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image courtesy of kew gardens
satire nights Musical satirist and Chelsea resident Melinda Hughes sings about Trump’s tweets and London cabbies in her latest show, Satirical Diva. £15, 7 March, Brasserie Zédel, W1F; 10 April, The Pheasantry, SW3, melindahughes.com
Women’s march, washington DC, 2017, IMAGE CREDIT: CHRIS WILLIAMS/ZOEICA IMAGES
The only ‘brief encounter’ most of us experience on our daily commute is with the armpit of the stranger crammed in next to us. Back in Noël Coward’s day, train stations were rather more romantic, as Kneehigh’s production of his classic play reminds us. From £20, 2 March – 2 September, Empire Cinema, 63-65 Haymarket, SW1Y, briefencounterwestend.com
KATE BANAZI, SKIP #2 COURTESY OF GAS GALLERY
RUSH HOUR CRUSH
Pack a poncho and a picnic blanket for Live at the Palace, which kicks off with an outdoor screening of La La Land, backed by an orchestra. Jaws, The Godfather and Titanic complete the bank holiday weekend line-up – make sure you book tickets now. From £52.50, 25-27 May, Fulham Palace, SW6, fulhampalace.org
canvass for change Soapboxes at the ready as politics, protest placards and posters are exhibited in the Design Museum’s Hope to Nope: Graphics and Politics 2008-2018. From £12, 28 March – 12 August, 224-238 Kensington High Street, W8, designmuseum.org
Fairy tale The whimsical worlds of Sophia Webster and Alex Monroe collide in a new collection of fairy-themed jewellery words: Ellen Millard
natural flair with a pen, a few cardboard cut-outs and some amateur photography saw 16-year-old Elsie Wright and nine-yearold Frances Griffiths hoodwink the nation in what is one of the greatest hoaxes of all time: The Cottingley Fairies, a series of five photographs snapped in 1917, supposedly proving the existence of the supernatural. It was a tale that fooled even the brightest of minds – Sir Arthur Conan Doyle made the images famous when he published them in an article, believing them to be real. They were, of course, fake, as confirmed by the cousins in an interview in the 1980s. It was this brass-necked trickery that captured the imagination of accessories designer Sophia Webster, a century after the snaps were taken. The girls’ intricate drawings, along with Cicely Mary Barker’s fanciful Flower Fairies, formed the basis of Webster’s S/S18 collection, Away With the Fairies, which comprises rose gold wedges, sling-back sandals with exaggerated floral embellishments and the designer’s signature Chiara heels reimagined with tie-dye wings. As usual, Webster stuck to her sartorial mantra: “Be bold in your accessories”. “This collection is really technically different to anything I’ve done before,” the designer tells me. “There is a huge range of heel heights in different fabrics and embellishments, and we explored new heels with floating petals inside Perspex platforms and miniature three-dimensional fairies nestled inside clogs.” Several new silhouettes have also been introduced to the handbag range, including Webster’s favourite, the Bonnie Lilico, a cylindrical cross-body bag with hand-finished floral detailing and an interior mirror. For her fashion show, she called on set designer extraordinaire Shona Heath and stylist Leith Clark. The models wore wispy pastel chiffon and posed in life-sized picture frames, surrounded by branches
The Cottingley Fairies supposedly proved the existence of the supernatural
Above: Dragonfly knuckle ring, £286; Left: Woodland garden knuckle ring, £225
decorated with lilac wisteria. The final touch came courtesy of British jewellery designer Alex Monroe, with whom Webster has produced an exclusive collection. Working around a woodland theme, the two designers set about creating a range of pixie-style ear cuffs for the models to wear – and the collection grew steadily from there. Pearls adorn the ear cuffs, along with sterling silver garlands plated in gold, twisting rose gold ivy leaves and dragonfly wings. Stud earrings are similarly floral, with blooming dandelion heads – each seed is individually applied in a painstaking process – and freshwater pearl, amethyst and labradorite studs wrapped in gold plates. There are also double rings with tiny spiky petals; delicate arm bands with intricately swirled golden vines; and dandelion pendants. “As usual, we got carried away and did about a million designs and a whole mass of samples,” says Monroe. “The big problem was whittling it down to a cohesive collection. But by the time we had edited it there wasn’t anything I didn’t love... in many ways, the final collection includes all my favourite designs.” As a technical exercise, Monroe favoured the dandelion puffball necklace, comprising 18 yellow gold dandelion seeds; while Webster, known for her love of all things statement, has a soft spot for the chunky dragonfly knuckle ring, a nod to her Chiara winged pumps. She even wore it to the S/S18 presentation, along with another Monroe piece that holds a special place in her heart. “When my three-year-old daughter Bibi was born, my husband Bobby bought me one of Alex’s gold bumblebee pendants – I never take it off and have worn it ever since. It’s my lucky charm,” she says. “I love how delicate and finessed Alex’s interpretation of nature is and the hand-crafted intricate detailing of his work.” The bumblebee in question is perhaps what Monroe is best known for – the most popular of his nature-inspired designs is now 10 years old. The great outdoors is, unsurprisingly, where he finds many of his ideas. “Nature is where I do most of my drawing and thinking. The further away from civilisation the better,” he smiles. “But then I bring it all back to London and turn it into something wearable and current.” Monroe’s original love of jewellery came from a more unexpected source. “You wouldn’t know to look at me but I’ve always loved fashion,” he jokes. “I like the meritocracy of the industry and the technical challenges of making things. I love craftsmanship and I want to make things that are used, worn and loved. I guess jewellery is at the crossroads of all these things.” The new collection, then, was the ultimate meeting of minds: Webster’s statement style married to Monroe’s whimsical designs makes for the perfect partnership, resulting in a range of dainty yet striking pieces. As Webster says, accessories should be anything but demure. Go forth and be bold. From £72, sophiawebster.com; alexmonroe.com
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Right: Monaco Dress, S/S 1959 Haute Couture collection, Longue line by Yves Saint Laurent, image ©Paolo Roversi; Below: Junon dress, A/W 1949 Haute Couture collection , Milieu du SiÈcle line by Christian Dior, Stylist Grace Coddington, image ©Paolo Roversi
Haute heroes A trio of new tomes has been released celebrating the trajectory of three significant male leads in the world of couture: Paolo Roversi, Olivier Theyskens and Loris Azzaro w o rd s : M a r i a n n e d i c k
Dior Images: Paolo Roversi, by Paolo Roversi, text by Emanuele Coccia. Published 27 February by Rizzoli, £95, rizzoliusa.com
A new publication from Rizzoli documents the Italian photographer’s partnership with Dior, and includes handwritten notes from the man himself to models, magazine editors and the house’s creative directors through the years. All three volumes contain his rarely seen interpretations of the fashion house’s cutting-edge creations. Roversi is known for his mastery of the labour intensive Polaroid process. It enabled him to move away from the realism of snapping silhouettes and strip down a tableau to its essence – a technique he describes as capturing “a kind of absence”.
spotlight Kimoja ensemble, S/S 1997 Haute Couture collection by John Galliano, W Magazine, April 1997, image ©Paolo Roversi
“I always say that the designer is the composer of the music, and the photographer plays the instrument” – Paolo Roversi
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“I am motivated by what is accessible, as I am by the idea that what is inaccessible is a dream” – Olivier Theyskens
Rochas by Olivier Theyskens , S/S05, image credit: Diego Uchitel
Olivier Theyskens To coincide with an exhibition on the Beligum-born fashion designer at the ModeMuseum (MoMu) in Antwerp, She Walks in Beauty documents the purity of Theyskens’ approach, which has occasionally been overshadowed by the industry’s ruthless approach to commerce. Two decades in fashion has seen Theyskens ousted from his contract as creative director at Nina Ricci in 2009 – to which Anna Wintour voiced her disgust in an issue of American Vogue – before launching his own label. He continues to chamption a romantic and often gothic aesthetic, supported by international icons such as Stella Tennant, Madonna and Daphne Guinness.
Olivier Theyskens: She Walks in Beauty, by Kaat Debo, Elisa De Wyngaert, Vanessa Friedman, Lydia Kamitsis and Wim Mertens. Published by Rizzoli Electa, £45, rizzoliusa.com
Loris Azzaro The late couturier founded his fashion house in Paris in 1967, and his sparkling, disco-ready designs provided high-octane dresses for the heady Studio 54 era. His inspiration began with his wife and muse, Michelle Azzaro, whom he would envisage wearing his pieces; before his figure-hugging silhouettes and daring cut-outs graced the likes of Sophia Loren, Raquel Welch and Nicole Kidman. As well as interviews with the people who knew the designer best, Azzaro: Fifty Years of Glitter includes an indulgent selection of images by photographers, such as Helmut Newton and Guy Bourdin.
Azzaro: Fifty Years of Glitter, by Serge Gleizes. Published 27 February by Abrams, ÂŁ40, abramsbooks.com
image ÂŠFilipe Da Rocha
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La Grade Arche ÂŠ 2016 Johan Otto Von Spreckelsen, a signature building of Paris
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En pointe Blink and you’d miss the fine
brushstrokes of this Darren Baker painting, so similar is it to a photograph. Examine it up close on the King’s Road.
Darren Baker, Swan, 2018
22-31 March, The Collection, 508 King’s Road, SW10, 508kingsroad.com
cLOCKWISE FROM MAIN IMAGE: rOSIE sANDERS, sUE’S rOSE, 2017, COURTESY OF jONATHAN cOOPER; mICHAEL kIDNER, cOLOUR cOLUMN (NO.3), 1971, COURTESY OF aLAN wHEATLEY ART; Solid silver teapot designed by Josef Hoffmann for the Wiener WerkstÄtte in Austria, C.1905, Courtesy of The Peartree Collection
BADA Under the Hammer
Alan Davie, Dantes, 1970, estimate £700-£1,000, 28 March, 25 Blythe Road, W14, 25blytheroad.com
Morgan Ward, Untitled, 2017, estimate £2,500, until 18 March, The Dot Project, 94 Fulham Road, SW3, thedotproject.com
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cLOCKWISE FROM RIGHT: pHILIP pEARLSTEIN, Two Models, Rooster Weathervane, Luna Park Lion and Blow-up Dinosaur, 2016; MODEL WITH SPEEDBOAT AND KIDDIE CAR HARNESS RACER, 2010; Model in Japanese Robe with African Carvings, 2009; portrait of pHILIP pEARLSTEIN, 2015, courtesy of betty cuningham gallery
This year marks the centenary of the British Antique Dealers’ Association, which will be celebrated with a special showcase at BADA 2018. Returning to Duke of York Square, the fair will see designers Joanna Wood and Paolo Moschino unite to create a series of living spaces, using the collections of association members. 14-20 March, Duke of York Square, SW3, bada.org
Get real Often referred to as an instrumental cog in the 21st-century revival of Realist works, 93-year-old American artist Philip Pearlstein has unveiled his first solo exhibition at the Saatchi Gallery, where eight of his large-scale nude paintings are on display. Until 25 March, King’s Road, SW3, saatchigallery.com
ORIGINAL, LIMITED-EDITION ART DECO POSTERS
Limited to editions of 280, our newly-commissioned Art Deco posters feature glamorous holiday destinations around the world, ski resorts in the Austrian, French and Swiss Alps, and the world’s greatest historic automobiles. Over 100 designs to choose from, all printed on 100% cotton fine art paper, measuring 97 x 65 cms.
Priced at £395 each.
Private commissions are also welcome.
Pullman Editions Ltd 94 Pimlico Road Chelsea London SW1W 8PL www.pullmaneditions.com Tel: +44 (0)20 7730 0547 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org
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In an era when women’s rights are at the forefront of every industry, respected actors like Meryl Streep have an increasingly important role to play – both on the silver screen and off words: KAREN ANNE OVERTON
eryl Streep has a long and distinguished history playing remarkable women. From Julia Child in Julie & Julia to Margaret Thatcher in The Iron Lady, Streep displays an unrelenting passion for her craft in one compelling performance after another. According to the woman in question however, opportunities for such roles have come about partly by chance. “I’ve been fortunate to have been at the right place at the right time,” Streep, 68, begins, with typical understatement. “Early in my career I had the chance to play many pioneering women’s roles at a moment in Hollywood when those films were very popular and I’ve been able to carry that on” – she was celebrated for her portrayal of a Polish refugee in Sophie’s Choice and author Isak Dinesen in Out of Africa. Streep’s modesty, regal bearing and – at times – foreboding presence have made her one of the greatest proponents of female empowerment on the silver screen: a statement that can be underpinned by 20 previous Oscar nominations
(of which she won three), as well as a nomination for her role in the recent political drama The Post. In the richly acclaimed press room biopic, she portrays Katharine Graham, the owner and publisher of The Washington Post, who in 1971 made the difficult decision to publish The Pentagon Papers: a classified government study exposing lies about American involvement in the Vietnam War. Yet her character wasn’t the typical imposing Streepian powerhouse. Graham was a wealthy Washington D.C. socialite who was obliged to take charge of her family-owned newspaper after the suicide of her husband. Streep seamlessly captures Graham’s hesitant, nonconfrontational nature while showing how she gradually rose to the challenge, giving her executive editor (Tom Hanks) the go-ahead to publish the secret documents. In doing so, she defies pressure from her all-male board of directors and legal threats from a Nixon administration that her newspaper would later help bring down during the Watergate scandal.
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PREVIOUS PAGE: MERYL STREEP IN the post; Above and right: STREEP WITH TOM HANKS; BELOW: BEHIND THE SCENES WITH STEVEN SPIELBERG AND HANKS, images courtesy of AMBLIN ENTERTAINMENT/ moviestore collection
“Early in her life she was not the confident Katharine Graham, the woman that people came to know as the first female head of a Fortune 500 company,” Streep says. “She was someone very unsure of herself. She was the product of a time when women weren’t expected to do much outside the realm of good child-rearing and housekeeping. “But look at how far we have come. At that time, she was in a unique position as a woman. Since then we’ve gone on to see so many more women take up countless positions in corporations and in government.” Similarly, Streep has become a fervent champion of women’s rights and a leader of the equal pay movement in Hollywood, albeit not a role she initially intended to undertake. But whether on a film set or speaking in public, Streep takes on a sense of authority and mission. She traces this assertiveness to the influence of her mother and grandmother. “My mother was someone I looked up to and loved very much. She had a dynamic personality and a positive, enthusiastic outlook on life that I
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often wished I could have had when I was a teenager or in my 20s,” says Streep. “She told me she always believed in me and that I could achieve anything I set my mind to… that there are no limits. She gave me the idea that women can be anything if we really want it and work hard for it.” In the late 70s through to the 80s, Streep made her name as one of Hollywood’s most accomplished and versatile actresses, leading films such as Kramer vs. Kramer and A Cry in the Dark. She rose to fame for her accents and stunning character portrayals in particular, but in the 90s switched to comedies such as Postcards from the Edge and Death Becomes Her – “at that point in my life they suited my own personality more, I think”. Streep began to withdraw from Hollywood towards the turn of the millennium, preferring to dedicate herself to her husband, sculptor Don Gummer, and their four children. Now, members of the brood have flown the nest and forged careers for themselves, unsurprisingly, in the arts: Mamie, 34, co-starred with Streep in Ricki and the Flash; Grace, 31, has appeared in films including Margin Call and Frances Ha; Henry, 38, is a musician; and her youngest daughter Louisa, 26, works as a model. Over the course of nearly two decades, Streep and her family lived on a sprawling property in Connecticut where she could remain relatively anonymous and removed from the world of celebrity. She spent her days organising lunches with other mothers and participating in school events. “It was one of the happiest times in my life, my oasis.
I took so much pleasure from watching over my children, being as much of a confidante as possible, and enjoying everything that came with helping them grow into independent young people.” Recent years have seen a slew of box office hits and striking character studies, from The Devil Wears Prada in 2006 and Mamma Mia! in 2008, to an Oscar-winning portrayal of Margaret Thatcher in The Iron Lady in 2011. “It’s fascinating to be able to probe the life of another person and take yourself on a journey,” Streep says. “You’re trying to get at the truth and are feeling inspired by their lives… by their hopes and dreams. I always found that acting gave me so much confidence when I was starting out because as a young woman I often felt very
“My mother gave me the idea that women can be anything if we really want it”
misunderstood – I worried about the kind of impression people had of me.” The role of women in film, especially those starting out, is an issue that has dominated our news pages since October last year, when The New York Times broke a story detailing allegations of sexual harassment against Harvey Weinstein. As the story continues to unfold, the Golden Globes in January saw actors wear black to show support for victims of sexual harassment and gender inequality in all industries. “The black dress movement is only the very start. Already we are seeing other versions of this rebellion, and that’s good and positive. Fashion can be utilised positively in much the same way as it can lead people to draw quick, careless and hurtful conclusions. There is so much power in that.” Streep continues: “I think the older you get, the more attention builds for women in terms of what they wear and what they do. The scrutiny
can be intense. And yet, looking good for me is much like acting – it has always been a great form of therapy, and we need to recognise this again and stop judging so casually.” Asked if she has the energy to continue investing her time and creativity in the film industry, the reply is definitive. “Of course – how can I not? The more I try to understand the women I’m playing, the more I understand something about myself. “I feel very proud to have been able to work in films where the women I’m portraying are very central to the story. We need to make more films that present women’s lives as authentically as possible, and tell more women’s stories, and this is a real point of investment for me going forward.” Streep might once have been in the ‘right place at the right time’, but at this crucial time she’s undoubtedly the right person, too. The Post is in cinemas now
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Carbon COPY Would you wear a diamond grown in a laboratory? We investigate the future of Silicon Valley’s sparklers W o r d s : R a c h a e l Tay l o r
s you wiggle your finger, it dances and sparkles in the light, throwing out rainbow hues that make you gasp and coo. But what if I told you that the diamond you are admiring came not from beneath the Earth’s surface, but a pristine lab in Silicon Valley? Would it change how you feel about it? This is a question worth considering as science now gives us the option of buying diamonds created by humans. In labs across the world, from Germany to China, men and women in white coats are recreating the exact same conditions that turned carbon into diamonds all those millions of years ago. And it’s working. Not be confused with cubic zirconia or rhinestones, lab-grown diamonds are real and have the same optical and gemological properties as mined diamonds. Even trained gemmologists sometimes can’t tell the difference. As the mecca for emerging tech, Silicon Valley has been one of the first places to really invest in the creation of lab-grown diamonds. The company leading the pack – or at least attracting the most famous investors, including Leonardo DiCaprio – is Diamond Foundry. With slick marketing that focuses on the ethical advantages of lab-grown stones (no mining, no exploitation, a clear supply chain), it is trying to change the way we feel about diamonds. “If you ask people abstractly whether they would buy a synthetic diamond, people tend to be disinclined,” admits Diamond
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Foundry’s chief executive Martin Roscheisen. “But that’s like asking someone in 1990 whether they would buy an electric car, at a time when the only electric cars in existence were golf carts. When people see our diamonds in a store and understand their cultivation, there is zero resistance. Cultivated diamonds are simply a better product all around. It’s like organic food – it’s better food.” For those in the coffee queue with a thumbprint at the ready to buy their organic decaf soya latte using Apple Pay, this probably seems like a no-brainer. But for the romantics among us, the story that has been told for generations about diamonds forming slowly beneath the surface of
the Earth over millions of years is less easily unravelled. To start with, says Roscheisen, that story is false: “It takes two full weeks of continuous operation to create a [Diamond Foundry] diamond, which is 100 times slower than Earth itself forms them. Diamonds in earth form within two to three hours.” While the discovery of diamonds might take millions of years, the process starts with intense heat and enormous pressure 100 miles below the surface of the Earth, and when an eruption shoots the material upwards, cooling it rapidly, it is in this moment that diamonds as we know them are formed. These are the same conditions now being replicated above ground to create the 100,000 carats of lab-grown diamonds that Diamond Foundry is producing every year. Then, of course, there is the grimier side of the romantic mining story that jewellers don’t want you to think about
If you ask a dealer where your exact stone has come from, it is unlikely they could tell you with full certainty
when you’re selecting an engagement ring. While a very low percentage of diamonds are from conflict areas – it is estimated to be about one per cent – that does not mean that the 99 per cent of diamonds guaranteed by industry watchdog, the Kimberley Process, are ethically and environmentally sourced. The gemstone industry has a real problem with traceability, and while strides are being made – actor Salma Hayek recently auctioned off a 4.11ct emerald for charity mothers2mothers at her London home, donated by Fabergé and laser inscribed with a reference number, allowing its journey from a Gemfields mine in Zambia to be traced – if you ask a dealer where your exact stone has come from, it is unlikely they could tell you with full certainty. In a glass-fronted boutique within Soho’s fashionable Ham Yard Hotel, there is a jeweller, Anabela Chan, who
some feathers e l f f to ru Top right: image courtesy of Diamond Foundry; All other images courtesy of Anabela Chan
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can guarantee you that every one of the diamonds and brightly coloured gemstones you’ll see within her chic golden displays are genuine and ethically sourced. That’s because every last one of them – from rich purple amethysts and fuchsia sapphires to canary yellow diamonds, and even black opal – was grown in a lab. “I trained as a fine jeweller in a very traditional way, but when I was in my second year I met a friend who was in footwear design but whose family were in the gemstone business, so I asked her why she was doing footwear,” says Chan, whose designs have all the hallmarks of Bond Street but not the exorbitant price tags. “She said, ‘If you’ve seen what I’ve seen and know what I know, you wouldn’t want to be a part of that industry either’. It was a life-changing moment.” While a very small minority of Chan’s clients do come to her because of the lab-grown angle, most fall in love with the designs first and discover the origin of the stones – and, pleasantly, the prices – second. “When you look at stones, you
“A lot of customers like the fact that they are getting more diamond for their money” Above: Syanyonja collection, courtesy of Cred; All other images courtesy of Diamond Foundry
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can see how beautiful they are,” says Chan, whose clients will mix her pieces into collections dominated by pricier, mined gems. “There’s no difference optically, and value-wise I think we are creating pieces that people enjoy wearing rather than keeping in the safe. Clients feel comfortable to travel with them and flamboyant, colourful, dramatic pieces can be enjoyed by a younger demographic as they can now afford them.” Ethics aside, the lower price of lab-grown diamonds is a major draw. At ethical jeweller Cred, which has an appointment-only boutique in Clerkenwell, all its fairtrade gold engagement rings are offered with either ethically sourced diamonds mined in Canada or Namibia, or lab-grown diamonds. Swapping the stone from mined to lab-grown can save you up to 30 per cent. “Some customers still want the allure of a natural stone, the romance,” says Cred owner Alan Frampton, whose biggest lab-grown diamond sale to date was a 1ct oval cut. “However, a lot of customers like the fact that they are getting more diamond for their money with a lab-grown, and love that they get all the beauty of a sparkly diamond without the cost to the environment, safe in the knowledge that no-one has been harmed in the process.” Last year, Atelier Swarovski – from the family of the same name that made its fortune from faux sparkle – launched its own collection of fine jewellery that set its trademark crystals next to lab-grown diamonds. American Horror Story actor Emma Roberts wore some of the pieces on the red carpet at the 2017 Oscars, marking a watershed moment for lab-grown diamonds being taken seriously. The question that remains is whether lab-grown diamonds will hold their value, as their mined predecessors have done. Will they follow the tech path and drop in price as increased production boosts supply? Or will they mimic cultured pearls, which took the place of natural pearls in the 1920s? Though prices initially plummeted, cultured pearls, once considered pretenders, are now highly sought-after luxuries. And good news for anyone with a mined diamond in their possession: the price of natural pearls skyrocketed even further.
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The Montblanc pavilion at SIHH 2018
Inside SIHH: Fashion Week for Watches The first horological outing of 2018 reveals an industry in optimistic spirits – even if reissues and reinventions remain the order of the day Words: Richard Brown
ewind to this time last year and the mechanical watch industry was a ship in troubled waters. A perfect storm of global socio-economic suckerpunches had pummelled the sector into recession. In 2015, for the first time since 2009, Swiss watch exports had shrunk. Shipments fell a further 10 per cent in 2016. Thirteen of the 15 largest markets were in decline. Industry captains either abandoned their ships or were forced to walk the plank. Crews were culled. It was horologic Armageddon. Or so it seemed. What a difference 12 months make. After some major internal shakedowns, CEO swaps and strategic product realignment, brands are already reaping the rewards of redirecting their attentions to grassroots collections. Annual exports grew by 2.7 per cent in 2017, almost breaking the CHF 20 billion (£15 billion) mark (the industry peaked at CHF 22.2 billion in 2014). So, what’s the forecast for 2018? As the first major trade show of the year, January’s Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, or SIHH, serves as a good barometer for the state of the industry at large.
Attended by 35 mostly premium brands belonging chiefly to the Richemont group, a significant slice of the show is dedicated to haute horology – that highfalutin, high-fashion end of watchmaking – yet among the tourbillions and supercomplications there are enough timepieces destined for the real world to make the show relevant to real people. What did we learn from the 2018 instalment? An all-round sense of optimism suggests that it’s back to business as usual: Richard Mille did what it does best, launching a £828,500 carbon fibre, scratch-resistant timepiece with Argentinian polo player Pablo Mac Donough; Piaget invited Ryan Reynolds to its tikithemed pavilion to talk about the updated Altiplano collection; while IWC once again hosted a gala evening attended by Cate Blanchett, Bradley Cooper and Adriana Lima. Amid the champagne receptions and celebrity roll calls, a swathe of significant timepieces made their debuts. Some were as expensive as houses, but many others limbo-ed their way into that price point we call, for want of a better word, the ‘affordable’ watch segment. Watch crisis? What watch crisis?
Six of the best Mark Toulson, head of watch buying at Watches of Switzerland, selects his standout watches from SIHH 2018
Cartier Santos, from £5,500
“The return of an icon – the Santos is regarded as the first proper wristwatch for men. Originally produced in 1904, it has now been brought bang up to date with anti-magnetic parts in the movement and the option to easily change from the metal bracelet to a strap via Cartier’s QuickSwitch system, giving the watch a totally different look.”
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph, £8,800
“This 42mm chronograph is one of 17 new models in JaegerLeCoultre’s Polaris collection. All are gentlemen’s sports watches, but I love this particular model for its deep blue dial and brown leather strap – a colour combination that works really well. The dial is exquisite and being a two dial chronograph it looks beautifully balanced.”
IWC Portofino HandWound Moon Phase, £11,250 “Marking 150 years of watch manufacturing, this model is one of the celebration watches limited to a production run of only 350 examples. The 45mm steel case houses a manually wound eight-day power reserve movement that also includes a moon phase function. The hands are blued steel and look really cool against the crisp white lacquered dial that is a feature of the Jubilee Collection.”
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Camouflage, £26,100 “The Royal Oak Offshore turns 25 this year and Audemars Piguet has produced a new colourway that surprised everyone. At 44mm, it’s a big watch with an even bigger personality. The beige dial is subtle but the orange chronograph hands really pop out against the brown sub dials. Then there’s the green ceramic bezel, green pushers and the amazing camouflage rubber strap to consider. Perfect for any reconnaissance missions you have in mind.”
A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin, £17,900
“Perfectly sized at 39mm, the white gold case presents a beguiling aventurine dial. Also known as copper blue, the silver base dial is coated with copper blue glass that holds flecks of copper dioxide, which creates a unique shimmery effect. It’s stunning, in a very sophisticated way.”
Officine Panerai Luminor Due, £5,500
“Still with the proper Luminor look but a more slimmed down case, this 42mm timepiece is eminently wearable for any occasion. You get an in-house manufactured three-day power reserve movement with a lovely anthracite dial that contrasts beautifully with the beige leather strap.”
Watches 1, 2, 3, 5 and 6 are available at Watches of Switzerland Regent Street. Watch 4 is available at Watches of Switzerland Canary Wharf, watches-of-switzerland.co.uk
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Fit for a princess The Meghan Markle effect meant all eyes were on Ralph & Russo’s S/S18 couture show – and like the royal engagement portraits, it didn’t disappoint. Each look was a vision of romance – abundant with Asian influences, Swarovski crystals and billows of ostrich feathers. By appointment only, 40 Park Street, W1K, ralphandrusso.com
Ulyana Sergeenko’s S/S18 couture collection wouldn’t look out of place in Lewis Carroll’s Wonderland or at the court of Marie Antoinette. The Kazakhstani designer has reimagined the ornate tea sets that were present throughout her traditional Soviet upbringing: dresses are sculpted into silhouettes reminiscent of cups and saucers, adorned with patterns often painted on porcelain. Now, where’s the cake? POA, ulyanasergeenko.net
Storm in a teacup
A pair of peepers from Parisian eyewear brand Izipizi will brighten your outlook in more ways than one... £33, izipizi.com
Pop into Fenwick of Bond Street and discover two bright new additions: King & Tuckfield and Stine Goya. The latter celebrates its 10th anniversary this year; browse its whimsical prints and bold tailoring in an in-store pop-up shop until mid-April.
City p r e c ious , p o a , b r u ne l l oc u c i n e l l i . co m
Cool B ox m in i , £ 2 , 1 5 0 , De lvau x . c o m
fenwick.co.uk Can d y Cl ut c h , £ 1 , 1 7 0 , tyl e r e l l i s. co m
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CURIO COLLECTION S T E R L I N G S I LV E R V E R M E I L W I T H S E M I - P R E C I O U S S T O N E S A N D D I A M O N D S
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What happened when Gigi Hadid and Kate Moss met on set for the first time? We find out in Stuart Weitzmanâ€™s latest spring/summer campaign
ow old were you when you first started modelling? “18 months old maybe,” says Gigi Hadid to the camera. “I was 14,” replies Kate Moss. In the short behind-the-scenes clip for the Stuart Weitzman S/S18 campaign, you can tell these years of experience have paid off. Both women appear confident, feminine and alluring. Three words, incidentally, that Australian male model Jordan Barrett, who joins them (sans shoes), uses to describe the Stuart Weitzman woman. Their debut appearance together coincides with the 25th anniversary of the Stuart Weitzman 5050 stretch boot. It’s a design that stands at the helm of everything that the brand is known for: a seamless blend of fashion and function. The combination of half microstretch and half leather/suede was th created in 1993 and has not only been coveted by Hollywood A-listers the world over, but also developed into a variety of half and half combinations in different heel heights. The popular Reserve with a 1¾-inch block heel is one such version. Worn by Kate Moss in the campaign (pictured left), it can be snapped up online or in store in black nappa or black suede. The choice doesn’t stop there. Each vignette of the campaign sees the style sirens showcase other new shoes and heels, from the tough motorcycle Expert boots to the crystal fringed Irises loafers and the square-toed fringe Nudist sandals. It’s not the first time Hadid has modelled for the brand. She’s made numerous appearances: controversially posing naked with Lily Aldridge and Joan Smalls for S/S16, releasing the Gigi Boot later that year and sporting a dramatic pixie haircut for A/W17. But when asked on the set of this year’s shoot what her most memorable supermodel moment is, she replies: “I guess shooting with Kate today is pretty awesome.” We couldn’t agree more.
Kate Moss and Gigi Hadid’s debut appearance together coincides with the 25 anniversary of the the 5050 stretch boot
k silhoue t te slee e h £ 4 9 5 , ava il
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200 Regent Street, W1B, stuartweitzman.com
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Blouse, POA, RED Valentino, redvalentino.com; Trousers, ÂŁ680, Roberto Cavalli, robertocavalli.com; Coat, POA, Agnona, agnona.com; Earrings, ÂŁ165, Maria Black, farfetch.com
Under a terracotta
Photographer Alexander Beer S t y l i s t Gra h am C r u z a t A & R C r e a t i v e
THIS PAGE Shirt, £565, Stella McCartney, stellamccartney.com; Vest, £415, Dsquared2, dsquared2.com; Skirt, POA, Valentino, valentino.com; Boots, £650, Jimmy Choo, jimmychoo.com; Cuff, £135, Cornelia Webb, corneliawebb.com; Ring, £150 and pendant, £105, both Allison Bryan, allisonbryan.co.uk; Earrings, £1,800, Noor Fares, noorfares.com OPPOSITE PAGE Blouse, £470, Emilio de la Morena, emiliodelamorena.com; vest, £495, Missoni, missoni.com; Trousers, £575, Vilshenko, matchesfashion.com; Bag, £1,295, Christian Louboutin, christianlouboutin.com; Shoes, POA, Aquazzura, aquazzura.com; Earrings, £142, Maria Black, farfetch.com
THIS PAGE Jumper, £1,154 and sleeveless jacket, £1,877, both Antonio Berardi, net-a-porter.com; Earrings, £6,600, Noor Fares, noorfares.com; Bracelet, POA, Shamballa Jewels, shamballajewels.com OPPOSITE PAGE Blouse, £165, lisou, lisou.co.uk; Jumper, £685, Missoni, missoni.com; Dress, POA, Agnona, farfetch.com; Sandals, £550, Giuseppe Zanotti, giuseppezanotti.com; Ring, £126, Cornelia Webb, corneliawebb.com; Earrings, £275, Kalmar, kalmarlifestyle.com
THIS PAGE Bodysuit, POA, Valentino, valentino.com; Sleeveless jumper, £175, Pringle of Scotland, pringlescotland.com; Skirt, £1,020, Missoni, missoni.com; Earrings, £2,880, Noor Fares, noorfares.com OPPOSITE PAGE Top, £450, Dsquared2, dsquared2.com; Cardigan, £275, Pringle of Scotland, pringlescotland.com; Skirt, £1,450, Dior, dior.com; Sandals, £825, Christian Louboutin, christianlouboutin.com; Earrings, £300, Missoni, Missoni.com; Sunglasses, £580, Dita, dita.com
Model Johanna Feldmeier at Marilyn Agency Paris Hair and make-up Sophie Higginson, using Oribe and MAC location Palazzo Avino, palazzoavino.com
The womenswear department at Harrods has had a stylish overhaul, starting with the new Advanced International Designer Room
ver since Harrods opened its doors in 1905 it has been the first stop on many a style pilgrimage. Whether you’re searching for wardrobe staples – a Bella Freud knit or a pair of well-cut J Brand jeans, perhaps – or looking to invest in a design classic such as a Chanel 2.55 handbag or a Max Mara camel coat, there is certainly no shortage of luxury brands housed under its historic roof. But the famous emporium is not one to sit on its laurels. Rather, the department store is continually looking to the future. Following the unveiling of its Art Deco-inspired bakery and coffee shop (the first phase in a ‘taste revolution’ that will see the food hall entirely revamped for the first time in 30 years), Harrods is having a makeover elsewhere. Up on the first floor, the womenswear department has been dressed to impress. For those with an afternoon to spare, a loop of the floor is in order, starting with the Superbrands hall and its parade of beautiful boutiques, ticking off everything from Louis Vuitton and Saint Laurent to Dior and Dolce & Gabbana as you go. Next, follow the marble corridor to the Designer Collections, before ending in the newly opened Advanced International Designer Room. Conceived by David Collins Studio, contemporary and classical design touches collide in the space, which is home to a cherry-picked selection of both established and emerging brands. The alabaster and ivory colour scheme, complemented by illuminated onyx, Venetian terrazzo floors and pleated pistachio velvet in the fitting rooms, provides a suitably stylish backdrop for a curated selection of designs. Along the back wall, harlequin prints from Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini and fiery red, flamingo-inspired Johanna Ortiz frocks hang alongside varsity and sporty separates from Off-White and Acne leather jackets. The complete brand list, which features 16 labels, including the likes of Vetements, Moschino and Erdem, was carefully chosen by the buying team, which also has a number of exclusive collections lined up. “We are pleased to reveal the Advanced International Designer Room, the latest addition to womenswear at Harrods, designed in partnership with David Collins Studio,” comments Maria Milano, general merchandising manager of womenswear. “Hosting an exceptional mix of the most exciting and fastest growing brands in fashion today, including Off-White, Palm Angels and Adaptation, alongside established labels such as Isabel Marant and Acne, the room brings the most cohesive contemporary edit to our customers, allowing them to shop the latest trends in the most luxurious environment.”
The womenswear department has been dressed to impress From top: Bleached Denim Jacket, £525, OFF- WHITE; Track Jacket, £340, palm angels; Ariana Floral Gown, £1,399, Vilshenko Exclusive; Plaid Cut-Out Blouse, £1,150, Rosie Assoulin
87-135 Brompton Road, SW1X, harrods.com
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Material world The fashion industry has a dirty secret: it’s responsible for 10 per cent of all global carbon emissions and a quarter of all chemicals produced in the world. But could scientists’ lab-grown materials help this unsustainable sector clean up its act? W o r d s : L A U R E N RO M A N O
mid rows of conical flasks, measuring cylinders and test tubes, a team of scientists carefully wield pipettes and pore over specimens in vacuum-sealed containers. They are on the edge of a breakthrough – one that could change the face of fashion as we know it. Settings such as these could soon be the nerve centre of the textile and fashion industries. In laboratories across the globe, biologists, chemists and technicians are harnessing DNA to replicate and manufacture the natural materials we need to make our clothes. It couldn’t have come at a better time. Fashion has been getting its hands grubby for a while now. The sector is the second largest polluter after the oil industry. Speaking of which, almost 70 million barrels of the stuff are used to make polyester – the most commonly used clothing fibre – each year. And it’s not just synthetic fibres that are to blame. WWF estimates that cotton growing accounts for 24 per cent of all insecticides and 11 per cent of all pesticides used globally; and if our love of leather continues at the current rate, some 430 million cows would need to be slaughtered annually to keep up with demand by 2025. This is where the scientists come in. In New Jersey, biofabrication company Modern Meadow is designing, growing and assembling collagen in such a way that the end product is something that not only looks and feels like leather, genetically speaking, it is leather – only better. The material, known as Zoa, can be engineered with a very specific set of structural and aesthetic criteria, something that is impossible with traditional leather. And this formula can be applied to all animal skins. So if, for example, you want the strength of kangaroo with the look of crocodile, then a bit of genome sequencing here and there and: voilà, your very own animal-free leather hybrid.
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THIS IMAGE: ZOA BIOLEATHER SAMPLES; BELOW: THE TEAM AT MODERN MEADOW
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: CALVIN KLEIN GREEN CARPET CHALLENGE DRESS WORN BY EMMA WATSON TO THE MET GALA 2016, IMAGE CREDIT: MATT BARON/ REX/SHUTTERSTOCK; Ensemble, Stella McCartney, Winter 2017, image ©Stella McCartney; Greenpeace Detox Catwalk in Bandung, image ©Greenpeace/ Hati Kecil Visuals, ALL FROM V&A EXHIBITION, FASHIONED FROM NATURE, 21 APRIL-27 JANUARY, VAM.AC.UK
above, from top: ZOA BIOLEATHER CLOSE-UP; WHITE LEATHER ON WARP SPACER; MARBLED LEATHER; PURE DRIZZLED LIQUID LEATHER; BLACK LEATHER, MESH AND COTTON T-SHIRT, ALL MODERN MEADOW, ALL IMAGES: ADAM FITHERS; LEFT: CLOSE-UP OF ZOA T-SHIRT grain FOR MOMA EXHIBITION; IMAGE CREDIT: SARA KINNEY
So far, so Jurassic Park, but it’s just the beginning. Science’s very own Lord Attenborough is Modern Meadow founder Andras Forgacs, who first pioneered bioprinting of human tissue for medical use in 2007 with his biotech business Organovo. “Biology has undergone a huge revolution,” he explained in an interview with The Business of Fashion. “It’s gone from being this artisanal industry to being able to put things together like Lego blocks – being able to not just read DNA, but edit and write DNA in larger and larger chunks.” What’s more, by combining design, biology and engineering, it has been possible to create materials that are both high-performance and less harmful to the planet. “Our technology enables designers to explore materials in exciting new ways, enabling never-seen-before functionality, aesthetics and performance possibilities,” adds Modern Meadow’s chief creative officer Suzanne Lee. This potential for both style and substance has been well-received in the luxury fashion sector. Stella McCartney has always been a pioneer in the ethical and animal-free fashion domain. Last year the designer collaborated with Californian biotech company Bolt Threads, whose scientists have created a protein-based polymer from yeast, sugar and DNA that can be spun into high quality silk. “Partnering with Bolt Threads is so exciting because it feels like everything is finally coming together and the dots are being connected between fashion, sustainability and tech innovation,” McCartney writes on her recently launched World of Sustainability platform, which documents the practices that her label champions. This ranges from sourcing and developing non-leather alternatives and using recycled materials (the Adidas by Stella McCartney collection was made of 100 per cent recycled polyester, a first for both brands) in its designs, to investing in innovative technologies to create new fabrics. But will this strand of biotechnology have much of an impact outside the luxury echelons of the market? Will lab-grown silk be making its debut on the high street anytime soon? Forgacs admits it might take some time to filter down. “Luxury brands are really important because they tend to be the ones most focused on quality and creating things that are truly differentiated in terms of design and performance,” he said to The Business of Fashion. “Plus, the margins are high, so they can underwrite innovation.” Innovation is certainly at the forefront of the minds of the moguls at Kering, the conglomerate that owns brands such as Gucci, Balenciaga and Alexander McQueen – and a stake in Stella McCartney. Last year it outlined an agenda to reduce its environmental impact by 40 per cent by 2025. Progress so far has been positive: Kering was named as the top sustainable textile, apparel and luxury goods corporation, according to rankings released by the Corporate
Knights Global 100 index, published at the World Economic Forum in January. Kering is also encouraging innovation among emerging fashion designers through the Kering Award for Sustainable Fashion programme in partnership with the London College of Fashion (LCF). “We have seen everything from post-carbon material using algae, microbial printing to cellulosic fibres made from apple waste,” says Renée Cuoco, education and sustainability projects manager at the Centre for Sustainable Fashion at LCF. “There is some incredible innovation happening around the development of alternative materials, especially in the field of biofabrication, which will play a part in creating more sustainable and localised production systems.” The Centre for Sustainable Fashion has been challenging the industry to do better for the past decade and is marking its 10th anniversary by collaborating on a number of projects, including Fashioned from Nature, an exhibition tracing the relationship between fashion and the natural world since 1660, which opens at the Victoria and Albert Museum in April. Among the 300 objects on display will be the Calvin Klein dress Emma Watson wore to the Met Gala as part of Eco-Age’s Green Carpet Challenge. It was woven from Newlife, a yarn made from recycled plastic bottles that requires 94 per cent less water and 60 per cent less energy than ordinary polyester. Meanwhile, fibre recycling is an integral part of the ethos at Eileen Fisher, which promotes its Renew program at its King’s Road and Marylebone High Street stores. The program enables customers to bring in clothes “in any condition to be either cleaned and resold or used as design materials for completely new garments”, explains Inka Apter, the brand’s facilitating manager for fabric development. “To date we have taken back 900,000 Eileen Fisher garments from customers.” Some of these outfits might end up as Refibra Tencel, a fibre made from pre-consumer textile waste and wood chips, developed with Austrian manufacturer Lenzing. “We are also working with an innovative mill in Spain that develops new fabrics using mechanically recycled fibres from our take-back program,” adds Apter. “There is such value in our materials, and we strive to extend the life of our garments.” But is it enough to develop more sustainably produced materials or do we need to be looking into other initiatives too? LCF’s Cuoco has this word of warning: “Even the technological advancements we have witnessed over the past decade have been negated by continued growth in consumption and production, which only seems to be getting faster,” she says. “Every day we use more resources to feed our insatiable fashion appetite, and every day we come closer towards irreversible and dangerous levels of climate change. Alongside new technology we need a greater shift – we need to find a way to slow down and consume less.”
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Ahead of the
Curve Marina Rinaldi has advocated different body types and positive ways of expressing style since 1980. The brand remains firmly at the forefront of fashion â€“ especially now supermodel and role model Ashley Graham is launching her first collaborative collection
he name Achille Maramotti might be the first that springs to fashion minds when the Max Mara group is mentioned. However, brands under its umbrella – such as Sportmax, Marella and Marina Rinaldi – might never have existed had it not been for two important and ambitious women in the Italian founder and fashion designer’s life. Maramotti’s mother was a couturier who ran a tailoring and pattern-cutting school in their home city of Reggio Emilia in northern Italy. It was also here that his great-grandmother, a seamstress called Marina Rinaldi, ran and owned an atelier in the 1850s. The Marina Rinaldi label was born in 1980 and was the first to make clothes for women who were a European size 46 (UK size 18) and above, introducing new ways of communicating to an audience that was previously considered ‘plus size’. Its aim was to enhance, flatter and celebrate their voluptuous figures. It refused to scrimp on style, producing – and continuing to produce – clothing that is versatile and contemporary. Sound familiar? This attitude was at the heart of American model Ashley Graham’s career long before she was first asked by Marina Rinaldi to appear in its spring 2017 campaign. “In the past, curvy silhouettes were mostly associated with a certain age,” says Lynne Webber, managing director of Marina Rinaldi, “but now we are surrounded by curvy young women and girls who are passionate about fashion, want to follow current fashion trends and are proud of their bodies. “This has led us to widen our ranges, adding younger lines and capsule collections in order to reach this new target of consumers.” The synergy between the label and Graham has been so successful that they have collaborated to produce the capsule Denim Collection, developed using new denim jersey and super stretch denim materials. The range includes jeans, jackets, tops and skirts in a spectrum of blues, from classic indigo to washed-out pale, plus staple black and white pieces. Graham has added her own touch as well: her
Marina Rinaldi’s aim is to celebrate voluptuous figures
autograph is printed on the buttons and leather waistband labels. While Marina Rinaldi and Graham have both raised awareness, started conversations about the lack of diversity in fashion and motivated change, perhaps the real breakthrough will be when people cease to refer to ‘plus-size’ and instead it becomes a new norm. The motto that supports Graham’s partnership with the brand states that ‘women are the future’. It’s an inspiring statement for all women, regardless of size, but we’ve only got to where we are now thanks to those in the past – like Maramotti’s mother and his greatgrandmother Marina Rinaldi.
Marina Rinaldi invites you to celebrate a unique evening of fashion and accessories centred around the new capsule Denim Collection, created in collaboration with American model Ashley Graham. Explore the finest luxury Italian fabrics in store, as well as a fashion show, champagne, canapés, gift bags and a tombola. 6.30-8.30pm, 6 March, Marina Rinaldi, 5 Albemarle Street, W1S To attend, email: email@example.com
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Gieves & Hawkes’ new line of smart and casualwear panders to the British sporting season, with tailoring in lightweight worsted weaves and neutral linens, and fine knits in fitting shades of bottle green, racing red and yellow. Complete the look with a pair of white trainers and a glass of Pimm’s (or two). From £95, gievesandhawkes.com
n the sidelines o r a Lightw e eight suits to w
ON the case You’ll have no bother spotting this MCM suitcase on the luggage carousel. Inspired by German textile designer Gunta Stölzl’s graphic prints, the Gunta M Stripe Visetos Cabin Trolley features a repetitive ‘M’ motif in cobalt and grey hues. £1,375, mcmworldwide.com
Water works Expanding her menswear line that launched in 2016, Stella McCartney’s new swimwear collection includes tailored trunks in myriad prints and loose linen shirts – plus poolside accessories such as silk scarves and drawstring canvas bags. From £145, stellamccartney.com
Add a spring to your step this season with Harrys of London’s new Tom trainers, available in a range of ice cream shades. £325, harrysoflondon.com
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Do you know a shawl from a shahtoosh or a jabot pin from a tie pin? Neither did we until we met Mark Francis Vandelli, the distinguished authority on men’s style Words: Hannah Lemon
ark Francis Vandelli is a name that often has people rolling their eyes. He was made famous by Made in Chelsea, the Channel 4 socialite ‘drama’ full of It people with names like Binky, Toff and Habbs, hailing from South Kensington and Knightsbridge. One of the programme’s most memorable characters has been Mr Vandelli himself, who replaces personal gossip with witty repartee: “Do you know what I find ghastly? People who jog in public”, or “I don’t have any resolutions whatsoever. How could I possibly improve upon myself?” With this in mind it’s hard not to imagine Vandelli strutting around ballrooms in bespoke suits and turning his nose up at any canapé with a toothpick in it. But when I was introduced to him at an awards ceremony, it became evident that half of this dandyish persona is a tongue-in-cheek exaggeration for the Made in Chelsea producers. Weeks later, when I phone him, he’s bunged up with cold but ever charming. I can tell certain comments are delivered entirely for a reaction; an embellishment of the character he has created. When I ask him how he’s bearing up, he replies: “Colds – they’re just so common.” I titter down the phone and spend the next half an hour listening to his rolling ‘Rs’ and accentuated ‘ohs’ as he talks about his foray into fashion. His mother, Russian model Diane Vandelli, was a muse of Yves Saint Laurent “at a turning point in London in the 70s when everything was changing and people were quite rebellious”. Although Vandelli remarks that for someone who spent her life in couture, she cares very little about it now. In fact it is his father, Italian industrialist Marzio Vandelli, who seems to have passed on the mantle of debonair dressing.
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Vandelli’s abundant vocabulary has me Googling phrases (a shahtoosh, for your information, is a shawl), but despite the big words, he is unexpectedly self-depreciating. “Never overdo it. I should know, I’ve done it many times,” he says. With a capsule collection for Hawes & Curtis under his crocodile belt, various television shows with his “best friend” Viscountess Emma Weymouth of Longleat, as well as endless public appearances and private party invitations, there’s not a moment that a hair or handkerchief is out of place.
How would you describe your style? As curated and timeless and, I suppose, elegant; but that’s not really for me to say.
What’s your favourite item of clothing? An era that shaped my understanding of menswear was when Tom Ford was at Gucci – a fundamental epoch for fashion. I still wear those pieces a lot.
How has your family influenced what you wear? My father was a bon viveur, a flâneur and a gambler. At my age, he was in black tie most nights. As a result he’s left me an inordinate number of smoking jackets and a vast archive of eveningwear. It harks back to a bygone era of glamour and sophistication: two things that have unfortunately become increasingly rare.
What would you never leave the house without? A watch and pocket square. They must complement an outfit and provide a subtle indication of taste. I seldom wear a modern watch. It’s terrible when you realise there’s someone wearing the same model.
watches in the 20s and 30s, which were recently reproduced in their Collection Privée. I collect those too, but you know what I really love that no one wears? Graff watches, they’re fabulous for the evening.
Any other accessories? Actually, I have to say – almost at any time of year – a shahtoosh goes down very well.
How about ties? I’ll wear a tie in the office, at a wedding or a funeral. I don’t particularly approve of ties in the evening – it’s not ‘me’. But what I truly detest is the loosened tie, circa midnight, with shirt buttons undone. That’s when you know a man’s given up.
Would you ever wear a pre-tied bow tie? I should really say I’d never do such a thing. For velvet, though, I make an exception. Tying one’s own can prove quite disastrous: they can become a gigantic, cravat-like error hovering above one’s shirt.
What’s the most sentimental piece that you own? My jewellery. Mostly family pieces, many of which I’m gradually converting into cufflinks, shirt studs, jabot pins and so on. I also collect Art Deco jewellery, mostly Cartier and Lacloche Frères that I buy at auction. Unfortunately, jewellery is also very easy to lose – a wonderful diamond and sapphire panther of mine went for a walk a little while ago and never came back...
Do you have any favourite brands? Gérald Genta was a genius who designed some of the most iconic watches for Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet in the 70s. Cartier was already creating timeless
“Elegance never goes out of fashion”
“One should never clash with the artwork”
“Don’t be fooled. I prefer receiving awards to presenting them”
“There’s nothing as demoralising as feeling underdressed” What do you dislike about current trends for men? There’s nothing worse than men having the hem of their trousers so high that you see their ankles. It looks totally uncivilised. A man’s best friend is a great tailor because they’ll always make him look his best, whatever the occasion.
Are there any colours that you like to avoid?
the demise of spontaneity. You have to think twice before wearing the velvet blazer, with the evening trousers, with the full length mink, with diamond stud buttons, with the jabot pin in your bow tie, with a patent shoe... sometimes you just have to pare it down.
How would you decribe true luxury? Finding something that no one else has: a cobbler in Portofino who makes beautiful suede loafers that are so soft you can roll them up. Designers and manufacturers who still produce unique pieces using artisanal methods – those are the chicest luxuries.
What do you wear when you’re relaxing?
Mustard. I avoid mustard at all costs. I find it absolutely abominable. There is nothing that could ever please me about such a colour.
I don’t understand the need to have a different wardrobe for occasions in which no one can see you. I was brought up to dress on my own the way I would at a dinner party. After all, you never know who’s looking...
Who is your favourite tailor?
Best piece of advice?
I adore Neapolitan tailoring. It’s really the birthplace of great menswear and a constant inspiration for my own collections. If your blazers are handmade in Naples you can throw them into a suitcase, pull them out and be sure they’ll look as though they’ve just been pressed.
Appropriacy. To dress in a manner befitting your figure, age (unfortunately), complexion – if you must – and lifestyle. That said, there’s nothing as demoralising as feeling underdressed. As long as one’s selective when accepting invitations, it’s really very difficult to overdress. And if that’s the case, it may just be a sign that one needs better friends.
What has been your biggest fashion faux pas? Overdoing it – wearing the whole look from the fashion show. It denotes a total lack of originality and
“When your parents are your inspiration. Capri, summer 1980”
“Neptune’s back in the office”
“Like father, like son. St Tropez, 1979” “Minimalist? This is positively Spartan”
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0m r 3
s a differe olve nt s s be er
of ch Ea
Clarins’ SOS Pr
Fenty Beauty’s new line of matte lipsticks is not for the faint-hearted. From the electric pink Candy Venom to the verdant Midnight Wasabi (yes, really), each of the 14 shades is bolder than the next, and boasts a formidable staying power that lasts all day. £16, fentybeauty.com
In her NEW book Transform, make-up artist extraordinaire Toni Malt shows off her skills using unorthodox tools such as stencils, Swarovski crystals and temporary tattoos, to create 60 different looks on one rather patient model. £38, assouline.com
Image credit: Sylvio Kuehn
French fancy Lancôme’s limited edition Blush Bomb sets harbour a sweet surprise: shaped like macarons, these miniature compacts comprise a creamy blush and complementing blender. Use them together for a rosy glow. From £35, lancome.co.uk
True blue The latest launch from Chanel is the Blue Serum Eye, a lightweight formula that melts into the skin, reducing the appearance of dark circles and lines. From £57, chanel.com
health & beauty
Dermalogica W O R D S : E l l e n M i l l a rd
ot since my Duke of Edinburgh’s Award have I been so keen to look at a map. But while my walking boot-clad 16-yearold self spent her first orienteering lesson getting lost in the Lake District, today’s tutorial is set to be a little smoother. I’m visiting Dermalogica’s Duke of York Square store, which opened at the end of last year and boasts two underground treatment rooms, where its signature facials are performed – a key component of which is the Face Mapping service. Less intense than it sounds, Face Mapping provides an analysis of your skin using an LED light, which divides your face into sections and allows your beauty therapist to pick out the problem areas that need targeting. I opt for the ProSkin60 treatment, an hour-long session, in the hope that my depleted winter complexion will have some life pumped back into it. After an initial pre-cleanse, my face is blasted with steam to open up my pores (a weird sensation not dissimilar to opening the dishwasher and getting a face full of hot air) before my therapist begins to chart my face map. A dehydrated forehead and blocked pores on my nose and chin are my main issues, I’m told. She also, rather alarmingly, points out that she can tell I sleep on my left hand side, which is lacking in elasticity (note to self: turn over). Diagnosis given, my skin is indulged in a moisture-heavy treatment with a focus on reducing congestion. Creams are applied liberally, some gel-like and in circular motions, others thick and painted on with a brush and one that is left to fizz a little. Between creams, different pieces of ominous equipment with equally ominous names – BT Micro and Hydradermabrasion – are used. Both look and sound intense but are surprisingly gentle,
buffing away at the skin and delicately removing the bad stuff, such as dead skincells and congested pores. As a bit of a beauty sceptic, I have never been overly impressed with a facial before – but in this instance, the effects are obvious. My pores are reduced, my skin feels silky soft and, if one can say such a thing about themselves, I’m glowing. To help me keep up the good results, I’m handed a three-point skin fitness plan, along with my very own face map to take home with me. My navigation skills may still need some work, but at least I’m on the right road to a clear complexion.
My pores are reduced and my skin feels silky soft
ProSkin60 facial, £70, 37 Duke of York Square, SW3, dermalogica.co.uk
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Voyages Voyages, Jean-Paul Gaultier’s latest fabric and wallpaper collection for Lelievre, looks to all corners of the world for inspiration, from Kyoto’s cloud-like cherry blossom to the glass roof of the Grand Palais in Paris. From £68, lelievreparis.com
Putting the fun into functional, Danish design company Brdr. Krüger presents Hans Bølling’s multi-purpose 1963 tray in an assortment of slightly surreal scenarios and hip colours.
MARTYN LAWRENCE BULLARD is usually affiliated with Los Angeles A-listers, however the interior designer has returned to his British roots to collaborate with Cole & Son. Don’t be fooled by the modest aesthetic – he hints at his extensive travels with motifs of Hollywood palms and the Hanging Gardens of Babylon. From £90, coleandson-martynbullard.com
all rosy The powder pink obsession appears to be continuing well into 2018, with special releases from the likes of Anglepoise and Bella Freud. Treat yourself to a spring update, or make a loved one blush. Candle, £48, Bella Freud, amara.com; lamp, £95, anglepoise.com
URBAN LEGEND Born in scenic New Zealand, Christopher Hall’s collections are often inspired by unusual and beautiful locations. His latest, Somata, draws on mythology (he spent time in Athens in his twenties). The skeletal Pelops table might not be to everyone’s taste, but we love the Triton cabinet’s shimmering stained glass scales. From £4,200, christopherhalldesign.com
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Signe dâ€™exception. Available exclusively in fine wine shops and in the best restaurants. champagne-billecart.com
splash of colour
There are rooms with a view and then thereâ€™s Palazzo Avino, a Baroque 12th-century palace perched high above the Amalfi coast in the sleepy, sun-drenched town of Ravello. Enjoy the vista from the rooftop sun terrace; at the Michelin-starred restaurant; or with a martini cocktail from the Lobster Bar.
IMAGE CREDIT: ALEXANDER BEER
From ÂŁ245 per night, room only, palazzoavino.com
Glaze of glory Calling all sugar monsters: Doughnut Time has set up shop in Notting Hill, and sweet treats abound. Pop in for a bite of Hans Rolo (milk chocolate and caramel with Rolos) and Sia Later (vegan red velvet, pictured). 15 Blenheim Crescent, W11, doughnuttime.co.uk
Meat you r m at c h Not content with the traditional roast dinner, Launceston Place’s head chef Ben Murphy is switching up Sunday lunch with a selection of tasting menus, each centred around a different meat. Every month it will change: first up is chicken in the form of thigh consommé and soufflé, with beef taking centre stage in March and a lamb special arriving just in time for Easter. £39, 1a Launceston Place, W8, launcestonplace-restaurant.co.uk
the hot seat Until the end of March, Albert’s Club is reserving two dinner tables each day for non-members on a first-come, first-served basis. Grab a spot and a cocktail menu, stat. Until 31 March, 92b Old Brompton Road, SW7, albertsclub.com
Licence to spill At The Distillery’s new series of dining events, guests are served a themed five-course meal. Swot up on your martini etiquette at the 007 bash, or discover history’s best grub at the Five Century Dinner.
Various dates, £80, 186 Portobello Road, W11, the-distillery.london
food & drink
perspective Once the Harrods heiress and a fashion entrepreneur, Camilla Fayed turned her back on it all to open clean-eating restaurant Farmacy Words: Hannah Lemon
hen Farmacy launched in April 2016, it was dubbed a ‘veggan’ restaurant – a place where egg-eating vegans could get their chia seed porridge fix. The restaurant was the seedling of Camilla Fayed, the 33-yearold daughter of business mogul Mohamed Al-Fayed and his second wife, Finnish socialite Heini Wathén. When I ask her if she is still ‘veggan’, she subtly dodges the answer. “Myself and the Farmacy team are not interested in categorising people by dining choice,” she demurs. “For us it’s about caring about what goes into the body. Is it fresh, chemical-free, healthy and good for you?” It all began when Fayed decided to turn to a vegetarian diet after the birth of her daughter Luna (now eight), and then later a plantbased one after her son Numair (now five) was born. But nutrition is only half of the equation at Farmacy. “Our mission is to help raise consciousness around food,” says Fayed, “and promote plant-based, organic eating and drinking.” In the Westbourne Grove restaurant, cocktails at the standalone bar are almost good for you, while the wine list is labelled by the efficiency of the vineyards. As for non-alcoholic drinks, it’s a finer science than kale and spinach in a green juice. Syringe shots provide a quick-fire boost: O.M.G. is laced with organic CBD powder (a derivative of cannabis but completely non-psychoactive and apparently beneficial for the immune system), while the Antidote injection contains charcoal and raw coconut water. Elsewhere on the menu, burgers are black bean and mushroom and served in sourdough vegan buns; while dessert is probiotic spirulina ‘yoghurt’ with bee pollen. With a father who once owned Harrods and Fulham
FC, the drive to succeed seems innate. “I have always admired my father’s strong work ethic and this has resonated with me, inspiring me to follow my dreams and never give up,” Fayed says. True to her word, this year sees the expansion of the Farmacy brand with the release of her first cookbook and plans for other sites across London. Originally, it was catwalks that held Fayed’s attention – she owned a stake in Issa, the fashion label that provided the Duchess of Cambridge with that blue dress for her engagement. Which brands does she like to keep an eye on these days? “I admire how Stella McCartney prioritises sustainability and commits to operating a responsible business that respects nature, animals and people,” she says. Perhaps the leap from fashion to food isn’t that far – it’s the social responsibility that keeps her ticking. Not a bad ethic to pass on to the next generation of Fayeds. Farmacy Kitchen is published in June, available to pre-order now, octopusbooks.co.uk; 74 Westbourne Grove, W2, farmacylondon.com
From top: camilla fayed; interior of farmacy; exterior; farmacy syringe shots
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d b E i le e n s e m b l e s Food is
into fine fashion by artist
Gretchen RĂ–ehrs in a new book from Rizzoli. We ask Londonâ€™s finest chefs and
bartenders their favourite ways to give these simple ingredients a
food & drink
Jason Atherton, chef “I think the best way to cook Sweetcorn is on a barbecue. The smokiness provided by the flames gives a good contrast to the natural sweetness. It makes a great side dish with a squeeze of lime, a scattering of cheese and fresh chilli.”
Theo Randall, chef “Lobster linguine is one of the most delicious dishes – and extremely popular at Theo Randall at the InterContinental. We buy live Dorset blue lobsters and steam them, remove the meat and cut the tails with the shell on. They’re gently cooked with fresh red chilli, parsley and garlic. The linguine is very al dente and we finish it off with some lobster stock and fresh tomato tossed together. Add some spicy green olive oil and it’s something you really have to try.”
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Martin Hudak, senior bartender at the Savoy’s American Bar “Coffee can be so much fun to give different dimensions and textures – and coffee cocktails can be more exciting then just regular espresso martinis. We infuse tonic water with ground coffee and roasted coffee nuts to give it a distinctly different flavour, which becomes part of the Kentish Cob cocktail – a blend with Bacardi rum, sweet vermouth and fermented plantain syrup.”
Tom Aikens, chef “Curly kale is one of my favourite vegetables. I love it simply shredded into a salad, or added to risotto right at the end to give a lift of freshness. It’s also great deep-fried and seasoned with chilli salt, or you can brush the leaves with cashew nut cream and slowly dry them out in a cool oven at about 70°C.”
food & drink
Ben Tish, culinary director, The Stafford London “I’m a big mushroom fan and at this time of year I use the more meaty, chestnut mushrooms, cooking them with just-in-season wild garlic leaf and butter, served on some grilled sourdough with an egg yolk and grated aged pecorino.”
Pepijn Vanden Abeele, bar manager, Sketch “I like to work with all different types of lemons and limes, as each has a very distinct character. One of my favourites at the moment is yuzu: it has great acidity as well as a very round flavour with notes of grapefruit and mandarin that helps gel different ingredients together. It’s an excellent alternative to lime in margaritas or daiquiris.”
Chris Galvin, chef E d ibl e E ns e mbl es , Gretchen RÖ ehrs, £18.95
“Pasta conjures up so many ideas and often plays an important role, like in a goat’s cheese ravioli with slow-cooked Pyrenees lamb shoulder and sweet pepper stew.”
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travel LEFT: KAMALAYA KOH SAMUI; BELOW: herb house SPA AT LIME WOOD, image credit: amy murrell
thai road CLOUD WINE The Costa Brava has been given the Rubelli touch. Fabrics from the Venetian textiles specialist are peppered throughout the Alàbriga Hotel and Home Suites: an establishment with an emphasis on enotourism (plus collaborations with Chopard and Dom Pérignon). From €316 per night, bed and breakfast, hotelalabriga.com
A taste of Koh Samui’s Kamalaya wellness sanctuary and holistic spa – plus its founders and culinary director – will be transported to Lime Wood hotel in the New Forest for a pair of three-day retreats in May. Mindfulness and stress management talks will be accompanied by yoga sessions, forest walks, cooking classes and, of course, spa treatments. 20-22 May and 23-25 May, from £1,835 per person, two nights all inclusive, limewoodhotel.co.uk
rAISING THE ROOF The best room in the house at the new Almanac Barcelona is its roof terrace, Azimuth. Sip aged sherry while soaking up the cityscape below. From €425 per night, bed and breakfast, almanachotels.com
Village life Swap chocolate egg hunts and rained-off barbecues for Sardinian sunshine and watersports at Forte Village resort. A three-night Easter package includes access to the spa’s six saltwater pools, a gala dinner of local culinary delights and sports tournaments to keep the kids occupied. Easter package from €825 per person, half board, fortevillageresort.com
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F lOR E NCE Italy’s cultural hub makes for a particularly stylish retreat when seen through the eyes of a famous Florentine fashion dynasty words: Ellen Millard
urely in this beautiful city, with its centuries of wealth in art and its long traditions of noble leatherwork, I can find the answer to my problem.” Such was the hope of Salvatore Ferragamo who, in his autobiography Shoemaker of Dreams, tells of his arrival in Florence, where he hoped to fulfil his ambition of owning a bespoke shoe shop. His eponymous label was born in 1927, and by the time he died in 1960, his small-town store had become a global fashion brand with a workforce of some 700 shoemakers, who handcrafted more than 350 pumps a day. In Florence, Ferragamo’s influence lives on in more ways than one. One of the city’s top
financial supporters, the designer helped to fund the restorations of the Fountain of Neptune, eight rooms at the Uffizi Gallery and the riverside road Lungarno degli Acciaiuoli. It’s on this street that you’ll find the medieval Palazzo Spini Feroni, which has been synonymous with the designer ever since he bought it in 1937, just 10 years after his company was founded. Today, it remains the site of the label’s flagship store and museum. A few doors down from here are three more nods to Ferragamo’s legacy: a trio of hotels owned
by his family, and on the other side of the river, a fourth: Hotel Lungarno. Claiming to be the only hotel in Florence that sits directly on the Arno River (meaning if you jump out of the window, you’re going to get wet), the luxury inn is dressed accordingly, with royal blue nautical-themed furnishings, navy pinstripe carpets and gaping windows that make you feel as though you’re floating on the water itself. Even the crockery has anchors on it. My riverside studio suite is spread across two floors, with balconies on each and postcardworthy views of the Ponte Vecchio. The walls are decorated with Italian artwork and fashion illustrations hang above the bathroom sinks for sartorial inspiration. In fact, the hotel is something of a monument to Italian art and style, with works by Bruno Cassinari and Antonio Bueno (to name a couple), and sketches from the Giorgini Archive, an organisation dedicated to early Italian fashion. There are 440 pieces of
art overall, and guided tours with artist-specific itineraries on offer. The maritime theme continues in the hotel’s Picteau Lounge, where breakfast and lunch are served. The latter includes traditional Tuscan soup, Bolognese tortellini and thick spindles of tagliatelle, all served with very generous shavings of parmesan. Dinner is less conventional. At the restaurant Borgo San Jacopo, potatoes are on the menu – and not just in your standard mashed, roasted or jacket varieties. Instead, head chef Peter Brunel has crafted a seven-dish tasting menu around the humble spud. Among the highlights are Campari-soaked crisps served with a negroni chaser and potato ‘pasta’ spirals drizzled with a creamy carbonara sauce. It’s all a bit Heston, and each dish is served with a similar side of showmanship – a nod among waiters signals it is negroni o’clock and our miniature Camparis are opened with a unified cracking sound, a brief moment of eye
clockwise from left: streets of florence; Picteau Lounge; view of the ponte vecchio; borgo san jacopo; picteau lounge Opposite page: Arno River
Hotel Lungarno is something of a monument to Italian art
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Clockwise from top: Prestige Double River View room; View from hotel lungarno; Florence
contact indicating when it is time to pour. Such finesse, delivered with both style and substance, is to be expected from a hotel owned by the Ferragamo family – but for all the pomp and ceremony, it is the location that truly excels. Found on the quieter southern side of the Arno River, Hotel Lungarno strikes the balance between city break and luxury escape, giving its guests the opportunity to enjoy the more relaxed side of Florence while still being within walking distance of its buzzing historical centre. This is a combination that I take full advantage of, strolling around the city during the day and retreating to the comfort and cocktails of the Picteau Lounge at night. Compact enough to explore on foot, Florence lends itself to a ditch-the-map attitude and after a few days I find I can navigate the city without difficulty – and without my phone’s temperamental GPS. I travel in November, and despite a chill in the air it is gloriously sunny. I make the most of it,
juggling cultural activities with strolls through the city centre, popping to see Michelangelo’s David at the Galleria dell’Accademia one morning (go early to avoid the queues), and admiring the ivory, mint and terracotta facade of the striking Duomo di Firenze on another. On a rare grey day, I explore the Misericordia Museum’s private archives, a tour of which can be arranged exclusively through Hotel Lungarno. Thought to be the world’s oldest charitable initiative, the Florentine Misericordia was founded in 1244 and the records of its work assisting ailing patients or accident victims provide a unique history – of not just the charity, but the city itself. Tucked away in a box room at the back, I’m shown snippets of this precious library, presented by two enthusiastic volunteers who buzz with excitement as they don white gloves and thumb through the crisp pages, laughing as they discover doodles drawn by bored scribes some 800 years ago. On my last day, I make the climb up to the Piazzale Michelangelo, which offers an unrivalled view of the city. Looking out at the Arno River, the terracotta Duomo and the bell tower of the Palazzo Vecchio basking in the last of the day’s sunlight, I’m reminded of Salvatore Ferragamo, and his first impression of the city: “As I strolled through the summer night and felt the impact of its great beauty, I thought perhaps in Florence I had found my dream.” From £240 per night, room only, lungarnocollection.com
CLockwise from top left: The ocean liner Roma at sea, 1927, Courtesy of Collezione Paolo Piccione, Genova; Countess Alessandra della Gherardesca Spalletti’s Sandal, 1930, ©Arrigo Coppitz; Anna Fougez, 1929, ©Getty Images; Portrait of Salvatore Ferragamo, 1920; Pippo Rizzo, The Wanderer, 1929, Courtesy of Galleria d’Arte Moderna, Palermo; Labirinto pump, 1927-1930, ©Arrigo Coppitz; Mino Maccari, Still Life, 1926, courtesy of Polo Museale Regionale della Toscana; Lucio Venna, Advertising drawing for magazine, 1928; Mary Pickford and Douglas Fairbanks on board the Roma, Courtesy of Collezione Paolo Piccione, Genova; Francesina Oxford shoe, 1929, ©Arrigo Coppitz; Two-piece shoe, 1930, ©Arrigo Coppitz
The latest exhibiton at the Museo Salvatore Ferragamo charts the designer’s journey from America to Florence 1927 The Return to Italy, until 2 May, Palazzo Spini Feroni, ferragamo.com
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From traditional tapas and toe-tapping flamenco to trekking through the countryside on horseback, discover AndalusĂaâ€™s many faces W o r d s : K at i e R a n d a l l
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t starts with an indignant stamp of the foot, a flick of the wrist, and then the guitarist’s fingers explode into action. My heart hammers in my chest as, inches in front of my prosecco glass, flamenco dancers strut in riots of colour. They seem to speak to each other in a secret language. Like its dancers, Seville is bold and colourful; its cathedrals and palaces are ceaselessly captivating. Yet the city is coquettish too, with twisting cobbled streets and enticing tiled passageways concealing vibrant villas and tapas bars. It’s my first night here, and I’m falling hard. I’m staying at Corral del Rey, a converted 17th-century casa palacio, a stone’s throw from the Museo del Baile Flamenco. It’s the perfect hub for a visit to the city, nestled in the old quarter of Barrio Alfalfa. It’s walking distance from the Alcázar royal palace of Seville and the Catedral de Santa María de la Sede – top of everybody’s to-do list. The perfect itinerary here involves an early morning breakfast at the hotel (I particularly appreciate the curated news
round-up from home presented with my croissant), followed by a trip to the 15th-century Casa de Pilatos, the Alcázar’s beautiful, quieter younger sister. Here, stroll its sprawling gardens before the sun reaches its zenith. It’s one of the oldest royal palaces still in use in Europe, and is a maze of manicured courtyards and carved archways. Due to its proximity, we often pop back to Corral between sightseeing trips for a dip in the rooftop plunge pool, where we contemplate lunch over the river in the lively district of Triana, an
Like its dancers, Seville is bold and colourful; its cathedrals and palaces captivating
area known for both its cuisine and ceramics. All this activity – or lack of – works up an appetite and during our short stay we eat our way through the offerings at Café Cuesta, Bar Alfalfa and Ovejas Negras (try the crispy-fried aubergine and honey, and the homemade moussaka). By contrast, another must visit is the Metropol Parasol’s moodily lit serpentine curves, designed by German architect Jürgen Mayer – the perfect place to soak up the sunset while watching local kids skate. Make like Alice and sip a chilled tinto de verano in wonderland on top of a giant mushroom. If it’s more of the local viniculture that you’re after, over at the serene Aire de Sevilla spa you can soak in a wine bath. Yes – a wine bath experience involves immersing yourself in the antioxidant qualities of the Ribera del Duero red grape, with a glass in hand, naturally. After a blissful back and shoulder massage, our host ushers us up to a private whitewashed roof terrace (a perk of the wine bath experience), complete with infinity pool and unrivalled views over Seville’s impressive cathedral. We drink in the scenes as we sip.
Escape to the country
clockwise from top: the cathedral of saint mary of the see, seville, image credit: shutterstock.com; corral del rey; Hacienda de San Rafael Garden; Horse Riding with Pure Andalusia, image credit: Gerry Corbett; Al Fresco Lunch with Pure Andalusia, image credit: Sue Callister; Hacienda de San Rafael
All this excitement soon takes it toll. City breaks are tiring, but Aluz Collection, of which Corral del Rey is part, has a solution. My friend and I spend two final nights an hour from the city at the Hacienda de San Rafael – a peaceful, bougainvillea-draped abode
nestled between Seville and Jerez de la Frontera, renowned for its sherry bodegas and dancing horses. After the buzz of the city it’s the perfect antidote for an over-stimulated mind. First up: the prancing equines. When faced with the prospect of getting in the saddle I found it comforting to take John Wayne’s advice: “Courage is being scared to death but saddling up anyway.” He would have surely been proud as we Corral del Rey, from £281 vault onto friendly steeds for an per night, bed and unforgettable morning trek among the breakfast, corraldelrey.com; olive trees. Hacienda de San Rafael, The unflappable and immeasurably from £246 per night, bed calm Gerry Corbett, from Pure and breakfast, Andalusia, is our guide. Corbett shares haciendadesanrafael.com; her local knowledge while we take in Wine Bath Experience at the starkly beautiful Andalusían Aire de Sevilla, from €116, scenery. As well as horse-riding beaire.com; two-hour expeditions, she can arrange a host of countryside ride, from £79 bespoke experiences including tapas or per person, convent tours off the beaten track. pureandalusia.com We trot back to the ranch to explore. There are a handful of tastefully decorated bedrooms with mezzanine floors, as well as private casitas, three outdoor pools and leafy hideaways. Although the obliging staff won’t divulge its secrets, I happen to know that many a royal face has sought refuge here. They will, however, happily arrange anything from stud farm tours and massages to yoga and picnics. Although no one bats an eyelid if the only energy you can muster is to move between pools with a book. At the end of it all I feel as if I’ve experienced the best of both worlds – the perfect tale of two escapades. I’m tempted to book my next visit on my way home.
step to the beat
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Photography ©Sarel Jansen
James Pace, head of Knight Frank’s King’s Road office, on the importance of service, giving honest advice and why he loves working in Chelsea
’ve worked in Chelsea for 23 years, 11 of which have been with Knight Frank at the helm of its King’s Road office. I was made a partner at the firm three years ago. As office head and partner, my main focus is predominantly on sales in excess of £5m, working as part of our Channel Islands delegation, and helping to run our central London business as a whole. My real passion is people – looking after the many clients who have become friends over the years, my fantastic team and my family. My wife and I now live in Sussex with our two sons, who are 10 and 12. We moved out of London about seven years ago, to get more space for the boys. Having lived in Wandsworth and Battersea for most of my life, it was quite a shock going from a five-minute commute by scooter to an hour-long train journey, but I love it. I am lucky – I work in the best part of London during the week and have the expanse of the Sussex countryside to enjoy with my family and my naughty dog, Maisy, at the weekends. I have always loved Chelsea. I spent the early part of my life in Egerton Gardens and both of my children were born in Chelsea and Westminster Hospital. I have many happy memories of visiting friends and family in the area, and much of my school holidays would be spent hanging out on the King’s Road and Sloane Square. I also have vivid memories of long waits for my mother to finish shopping in Peter Jones! As a student I later worked at The Queen’s Arms on Draycott Avenue, which is now an Italian restaurant called Obica. We opened the Chelsea office on the same day that the government extended the congestion zone; I will always remember that. Preparing to open the office was a real family affair. My wife and son, Freddie, then just over a year old, came in and helped wrap the windows up before ‘the grand opening’. The office is in a great location on the King’s Road, right next door to Bluebird, where we had our launch party. The area is much more residential at this end of the street – many residents will have an additional property either in the UK or abroad, but this is where they spend most of their time. In Chelsea’s restaurants, pubs and cafes, almost everyone is a local. I see the same faces all of the time, and that to me is the mark of a real community. We have a fresh new team at the office, and they’re fantastic. They’re all under 30 and they’re hungry and enthusiastic; I find myself being the father figure among youngsters, which is great. Our common thread is our passion for the area and the desire to ensure that we give our customers the best possible advice and service that we can.
My day usually starts with an early morning workout at the South Kensington Club; it’s a chance to hit refresh after my train journey, and collect my thoughts for the day ahead. Our office is open from 8am until 7pm during the week and 10am until 5pm on Saturdays. We get quite a lot of footfall because we’re so well-placed on the King’s Road. My background is in hospitality. I used to work in hotels during my school holidays, and I studied hotel and catering at university, which included a year’s management training at The Capital Hotel in Knightsbridge. The most important lesson I learnt while I was there is the perpetual importance of excellent service and putting people first. In my experience, the hotel sector epitomises quality in service. It’s drilled into people that first-class service is imperative, whatever level of the market you’re at. That is something I demand of my team every day. However, the old rule in catering that “the customer is always right” is not necessarily always true. In our business, there is a great difference between being an advisor and a dealer, and sometimes you have to give your clients advice that is uncomfortable to deliver. A lot of companies in our industry just want to get the deal done, and then move onto the next. For us, it’s all about creating and nurturing long-term relationships with people, so it’s vital that we put our customers’ best interests at the very heart of what we do. Nowadays, one of the first questions I ask sellers is “what is your time scale”? If somebody’s expectations are unrealistic, we have to be honest and tell them how the market is, and what they can do to achieve the best possible price. Contrary to some people’s belief, there is a market that is more active than it was a year ago, which is encouraging. We spend a lot of time helping people with all number of property requirements, even if we’re not currently selling or looking for a property for them. Our goal for this year is to firmly establish ourselves as the go-to agency in Chelsea. We’re very lucky at Knight Frank because we’ve got a great network – we work closely with our South Kensington and Sloane Avenue offices, and between the three of us we’ve got newly energised teams all wanting to do a brilliant job for our customers. There are some that think the property market will one day be automated, but I think there are so many reasons why it won’t be. Fundamentally, property, particularly residential, is about people. For me, that is what matters the most and makes this the job I continue to love. 352a King’s Road, SW3 5UU, knightfrank.co.uk
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Argyll Road, Kensington W8 An elegant five bedroom family house situated on the Phillimore Estate The Phillimore Estate is widely regarded as one of the most prestigious residential locations in central London. This handsome six bedroom house has well arranged accommodation over five floors, balancing superb entertaining space and an attractive east facing garden. 5 bedrooms (1 en suite), 2 family bathrooms, 3 reception rooms, kitchen, dining room, garden. EPC: D. Approximately 358 sq m (3,860 sq ft). Freehold
Guide price: £8,950,000
KnightFrank.co.uk/kensington firstname.lastname@example.org 020 3551 5152
K&C 23 ARG
Sloane Court East, Chelsea SW3 A grand house near Sloane Square with direct access to communal gardens A newly refurbished, six bedroom townhouse in a premier location, approximately 0.2 miles from Sloane Square. Master bedroom suite, 4 further bedrooms (2 en suite), family bathroom, drawing room, dining room, media room, kitchen/breakfast room, bedroom 6/staff bedroom with shower room, kitchenette and secondary entrance, roof terrace, direct access to communal gardens. EPC: E. Approximately 408 sq m (4,389 sq ft). Freehold Guide price: £9,250,000
KnightFrank.co.uk/knightsbridge email@example.com 020 3641 5913 Savills.com firstname.lastname@example.org 020 7730 0822
Kensington and Chelsea March 2018 JSA Sloane Court East
Paultons Street, Chelsea SW3 An outstanding family house with a fabulous south facing garden This very special property has undergone extensive refurbishment and reconfiguration and now offers very comfortable accommodation, with five floors of living space and five generous bedrooms. It has been refurbished immaculately with a sense of flair and style and benefits from a tremendous amount of light given its clear views to the front and at the rear. 5/6 bedrooms, 3 reception rooms, garden, roof terrace. EPC: C. Approximately 230.2 sq m (2,478 sq ft). Freehold
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K&C - March cm
267 Westbourne Park Road K&C March 2018
Artesian Road, Notting Hill W2
Unique three bedroom penthouse with rooftop views
KnightFrank.co.uk/nottinghill firstname.lastname@example.org 020 3463 0062
A stunning three bedroom penthouse with porter available to rent in Notting Hill. 3 bedrooms (2 en suite), family bathroom, reception room, open plan kitchen, utility room, 3 private balconies, porter, a secure underground parking space. Additional benefits include open plan living, wooden flooring, built in storage and floor to ceiling windows. EPC: C. Approximately 88.3 sq m (951 sq ft). Available furnished or unfurnished Guide price: £995 per week
KnightFrank.co.uk/NHQ286606 All potential tenants should be advised that, as well as rent, an administration fee of £276 and referencing fees of £48 per person will apply when renting a property. There will also be a £48 charge to register your deposit with the Tenancy Deposit Scheme if applicable. Please ask us for more information about other fees that will apply or visit www.knightfrank.co.uk/tenantfees. Knight Frank is a member of the ARLA Client Money Protection Scheme and our redress scheme for consumers is Ombudsman Services: Property.
The Westbourne K&C mag March
The ArtsHouse, House,South SouthKensington KensingtonSW7 SW7 The Arts A collection newapartments apartmentsand andaatownhouse townhouse A collection ofof new
KnightFrank.co.uk/southkensington KnightFrank.co.uk/southkensington email@example.com firstname.lastname@example.org 020 0207871 78714120 4120
stunning Victorian mansion has been redesignedtotocomprise compriseaaboutique boutique collection collection of of 11 ThisThis stunning Victorian mansion has been redesigned 11 apartments apartmentsand and elegant townhouse. The original period featureshave havebeen beenrestored restoredwhere where possible possible to to include oneone elegant townhouse. The original period features include decorative decorative cornicing to the high ceilings, original fireplaces and sash windows. There is a day concierge with 24/7 cornicing to the high ceilings, original fireplaces and sash windows. There is a day concierge with 24/7 support team available outside hours. Buildcomplete completeand andavailable availablefor forimmediate immediate occupation. occupation. support team available outside of of hours. Build Leasehold: approximately 999 years remaining Leasehold: approximately 999 years remaining
Guide prices from: ÂŁ1,690,000 Guide prices from: ÂŁ1,690,000
@CentralLondonKF @CentralLondonKF KnightFrank.co.uk KnightFrank.co.uk
EATON SQUARE BELGRAVIA SW1 AN IMMACULATE PENTHOUSE APARTMENT WITHIN THE HEART OF BELGRAVIA Located on the fourth floor, with lift access, this three bedroom penthouse apartment comprises some 2,444 sqft set over two buildings. Benefiting from nine sash windows with direct views over the magnificent gardens of Eaton Square, the layout of the flat has been designed to provide comfortable and flexible living accommodation. Accommodation: Entrance hall, double reception/dining room, reception room/study, kitchen, master bedroom with ensuite bathroom and dressing room, bedroom 2 with ensuite bathroom, bedroom 3, guest shower room, guest cloak room. Amenities: Passenger lift.
C A NNES
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2 4 Cu rzon St reet , Lon don W1 J 7TF
ONE HYDE PARK KNIGHTSBRIDGE SW1 AN EXCEPTIONAL THREE BEDROOM DUPLEX APARTMENT One Hyde Park is situated in the prime Knightsbridge location bordering Hyde Park and Sloane Street. This prestigious area has an array of high-end fine dining restaurants and bars to choose from and some of London’s leading hotels, including the Mandarin Oriental Hotel just next door. One Hyde Park provides a unique London living experience for those who want the luxury, elegance and style. Accommodation: Entrance Hall, drawing room, dining room, kitchen, master bedroom with ensuite bathroom, bedroom two with ensuite shower room, guest cloakroom. Amenities: Balcony, porter/concierge, leisure facilities, swimming pool, private parking.
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De Vere Gardens
An outstanding four bedroom lateral apartment located on the upper floor of this attractive period property. Modernised to a high standard throughout, the well balanced accommodation offers excellent entertaining space whilst also benefitting from a resident porter and lift. De Vere Gardens is located just south of Kensington High Street and is within close proximity to the local restaurants, transport links and amenities which Kensington High Street & Gloucester Road have to offer. EPC rating C
020 7937 7244
share of freehold
A three bedroom lateral apartment located in one of Kensingtonâ€™s most exclusive gated developments, benefitting from a secure underground parking space and 24hr security. The accommodation comprises a fabulous reception room with a dining area, a fully-fitted Poliform kitchen, a breakfast bar, three spacious double bedrooms, master en-suite with a dressing room and a bathroom. EPC rating C
020 7937 7244
An exceptionally wide house situated in the heart of Old Chelsea with direct access to a secure communal garden, ideal for families. EPC rating F
020 7594 4740
PrimeQResi JOURNAL OF LUXURY PROPERTY
On track Estate agent by day and keen jogger by night, Knight Frank’s Emily Ramsay reveals the taxing training process of a London Marathon contestant
The price is right A Chelsea mansion goes for £40m
A mansion in The Boltons has been sold in one of the biggest single residence deals of the past 12 months. The Grade-II listed Victorian villa on the west crescent completed in January for £40m (£4,000 per sq ft), following an exchange of contracts in December. The house attracted “significant interest” – despite the somewhat challenging market conditions – before going to a UK buyer. Long-standing local agents Aylesford International put the deal together and said it was a rare proposition, even by Boltons’ standards. “There are only 13 houses on the west side and this is one of 10 houses that have really good gardens of almost 100ft long and 36ft wide,” said Aylesford’s Brendan Roberts. “The last sale of a house on this side of The Boltons was No.20, also sold by Aylesford for £55m in 2012.” Sprawling across nearly 10,000 sq ft, the house sits in the middle of the crescent and has a grand entrance hall, super-wide reception rooms, and a master suite taking up the entire first floor. This was not, however, the only big sale to go through in The Boltons in recent months. Knight Frank sold one of the Grade-II listed villas on the east crescent, offered as a rare package together with a mews house on Cresswell Place, at a guide price of £30m. These properties were in need of some TLC, but the main house offered some quite majestic spaces – the 58ft drawing room in particular. Other key selling points included a large garden and off-street parking for four cars.
With New Year’s resolutions fresh on everyone’s mind and a spring in their step after the Christmas break, 2018 has got off to a positive start on all accounts at Knight Frank in Notting Hill. With a showcase of some of the finest Notting Hill properties we have seen in years, a focus on realistic pricing and working closely with buyers, this year is set to be a very exciting one in the property world. For me, however, this year presents an additional challenge: the London Marathon. I have to admit I am probably closer to Bridget Jones than Paula Radcliffe when it comes to running ability, but I am doing it for two great causes, so it is worth all the pain and jokes! In the evenings, my pockets full of keys are replaced with energy gels, my heels and smart attire are swapped for Lycra and trainers, and my work phone headset gives way to an energetic playlist to help get me around the endless laps of London parks. I am running for two amazing charities: Shipston Home Nursing, a local organisation that nurses people at their homes at the end of their lives, and Mind, which I am sure you all know is a mental health charity. So, if you see a Knight Frank T-shirt plodding around the streets of London, be sure to give me a wave – and, even better, if you’re feeling generous, I would be hugely grateful for your support: virginmoneygiving.com/EmilyRamsay1
Knight Frank 294 Westbourne Grove, W11 2PS 020 3797 4547, knightfrank.co.uk
LU X URY LONDON.CO.UK | 111
MELBURY ROAD HOLLAND PARK W14
3 bedrooms | reception | kitchen | dining area | 3 bathrooms | garden | off-street parking | garage | Epc D
ENNISMORE GARDENS KNIGHTSBRIDGE SW7
3 bedrooms | 2 receptions | kitchen | 3 bathrooms | patio garden | communal gardens | caretaker
10 Clarendon Road London W11 3AA
020 7229 1414
A four-bedroom apartment in an elegant red-brick mansion block. Fitzjames Avenue, Kensington W14 • En-suite master bedroom • Large reception room • Balcony
Share of Freehold
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H A R R O D S E S TAT E S . C O M
A third floor, light and spacious four bedroom apartment. Chelsea Vista SW6 • Three bathrooms • Light and spacious reception • Grand entrance hall
Leasehold Approximately: 980 years remaining
• North and South terraces • Two underground parking spaces • 2,035sq ft / 189sq m
Knightsbridge office 020 3650 4600 email@example.com
H A R R O D S E S TAT E S . C O M
Stafford Court, Kensington High Street Stafford Court is situated on Kensington High Street in close proximity to a diverse mix of shopping experiences, restaurants and bars. Holland Park and Kensington Gardens are within easy reach.
Pegasi Management Company Limited 207 Sloane Street London SW1X 9QX E: firstname.lastname@example.org | T: +44 (0)207 245 4500 pegasi.co.uk
6-8 Street 20 Montpelier Montpelier Street Knightsbridge Knightsbridge LondonSW7 SW71EZ 1HD London
MONTPELIER PLACE, SW7 RIVERPARK COURT, CRANLEY GARDENS, SW7 LYALL MEWS, SW1XSW3 4 Bedrooms | 4| 3 En Bathroom (2 |En2Suites) Bedroom || Bathroom Reception Entrance Hall 2 Bedrooms Bedrooms Suite|Bathrooms | Cloakroom | Kitchen/Reception Double Reception Room Room | Kitchen |2 596 sqft | Rooms Lift || Bathrooms Guest Cloakroom Reception Study Kitchen/Dining EPC RoomE||Family 718 sqRoom ft | Lift | EPC ERoom | Kitchen/Dining || Laundry Room | Terrace | 2,046 sqft /|190.1 sqm 2,418 sq ft | Integral Garage A wonderfully proportioned one bedroom EPC C Additional off-street Parking Access to apartment, occupying 596 sqft| on the top Belgrave Square Gardens | EPC C fourth floor, with lift, of this handsome red
An excellently proportioned and bright two brick building with elegant high ceilings double bedroom apartment, An end-of-terrace freehold mewswithin housethe A well-presented freehold townhouse and spectacular uninterrupted views. This heart ofinSouth Kensington. Positioned on situated arguably of Belgravia’ s most with a large roofone terrace, providing superbly arranged flat comprises a double the second floor (with thishouse attractive desirable locations. This lift) lowofbuilt flexible living accommodation whilst bedroom with fitted storage andfrom river views, period building, the flat benefits was disassembled; comprehensively rebuilt of being superbly located in the heart awooden fully equipped bathroom with standalone floors in thisbenefitting stunning from semithe open and fully modernised `Knightsbridge Village`, just cubicle, a short walk bathtub androom separate shower plan living with fully-fitted kitchen. latest technology advances including airfrom Harrods and Hyde generous eat-infurther kitchen withPark. garden outlooks The apartment comprises a master conditioning, Lutron lighting, motorised blinds, and an excellent reception room with with modern en suite bathroom, abedroom builtproperty in entertainment system, underfloor The features air conditioning, dual aspectsand an abundance of natural second bedroom and additional shower heating and a fully fitted kitchen withsystem, Miele an integrated surround sound light. Embankment Gardens is a charming room. The property is flooded with natural and Gaggenau appliances. The property also LED lighting, video entry phone and crescent situated between Chelsea Physic light, offering an east-west exposure enjoys private use of ansystem; integral cleverly garageand as a pressured water Gardenand the Evelyn Royal Hospital grounds dualasviews over well additional off-streetGardens parking inalongside the mews incorporating modern conveniences in this including Ranelagh Gardens; opposite Chelsea’s roof tops. and access to the prestigious Belgrave Square elegant period property. Battersea Park. gardens, subject to separate negotiations.
£3,500,000 STC £995,000 STC £1,550,000, STC £6,750,000 STC
Freehold Leasehold, 119 years years remaining) remaining Leasehold (121 Freehold
kingston house east, SW7 TREVOR PLACE, SW7 CLAREVILLE GROVE EATON SW1X MEWS, 2 Bedrooms 5 Bedrooms EnSuite SuiteBathroom Bathrooms Entrance HallSW7 |||25En Bedrooms |2
Further Room | WC |Shower 2(1Receptions ||Bathroom 2Entrance Kitchens|Hall Bathrooms en|Suite) | Kitchen/Dining/ Two Bedrooms En Suite Reception Room | Kitchen | Utility Room |Room Store RoomPlant Room| | Reception 855 sq ft | Basement Shower ||Guest Cloakroom Air Conditioning | Lift |Kitchen 24hr Porterage 3,142 sqft || 2 Shared Patios | D Storage Room Terrace | Access Reception/Dining Room |EPC | Park Views | 974 sqft / 90.5 sqm to Belgrave Utility RoomSquare |Victorian 915Gardens sqtownhouse, ft | EPC E which A spectacular EPC C beautifully developed into a lavish has been
An elegant flat with plentiful charm, occupying family home. The extension provides more A brand charming mews house idyllically A newly refurbished two bedroom approximately 855 sq ft of lateral space on the than 3,000 sqft of living space arranged positionedset in this the quietfifth cobbled apartment floor ofcul-de-sac, this period much third floor of thison well-located handsome over levels, with great carefacing having been within6the heart of South Kensington. sought after portered building Hyde Park. building. Arranged over of theits fulloriginal width of the taken to retain many features, The property is presented in immaculate building, the principal reception roomstate-of-the-art is flooded whilst seamlessly incorporating condition and has been carefully designeda This sensational property now comprises with natural light from its south-facing aspects technology, natural light and throughoutreception with Italian solidwells wood floors spacious room with direct views over over the street. In design addition to the expansive contemporary elements throughout. and contemporary furnishings.kitchen, This attractive Hyde Park, a contemporary master sittingproperty area, the comprises room boastsan a bespoke The entrance lobby house additionally benefits from south bedroom with en-suite bathroom, double integrated kitchendouble and space for dining;providing perfect with adjoining reception, westerly aspects and plentiful natural light. bedroom with shower room and a welcoming for open-plan entertaining. The apartment formal dining space and opulent Clareville Grove Mews is aansecure gated entrance hall. The flat features wood flooring awards admission to abuilt-in superb bar, shared terrace, drawing room perfect for lane, located atwith the north end of Clareville as well as integrated air conditioning. The positioned to the peaceful rearBelow, of the first floor, entertaining on one floor. there is an Street, moments from thefurnished bountiful amenities property has been fully throughout overlooking Belgrave Mews. Occupiers’ canspace exceptional kitchen with further dining and bespoke restaurants, the area is famous for.a property with fittings in keeping with also enjoy exclusive access to Belgrave Square a and a nature. charming sitting room overlooking of this gardens, subject to the usual consents. private patio.
£1,380 Per Week £6,950 £1,250 Per PerWeek, Week £1,900,000 STC STC Long Furnished Let, Furnished Furnished Leasehold (174 years remaining)
Sales: +44 (0)20 7581 8277 T: +44 +44 (0)20 (0)20 3770 3770 3474 3474 T: email@example.com
Lettings: +44 (0)20 7590 1200 firstname.lastname@example.org email@example.com firstname.lastname@example.org
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ONSLOW GARDENS, SW7
CR ANLEY PLACE, SW7
Fabulous recently refurbished and interior designed raised ground floor flat with direct access to communal gardens and close to the amenities of South Kensington. The flat has been finished to an excellent standard with two good sized bedrooms, an ensuite shower room and separate bathroom. The master bedroom has excellent storage. The flat is decorated in a contemporary style with a kitchen and double reception with French windows leading onto the much sought after communal gardens.
Very elegant, stucco fronted house. The end-of-terrace location, in a quiet, treelined street, combined with a west facing aspect gives this house a light and generous feel with charming views. The property gives access to award-winning communal gardens and private tennis court. In a prime location within easy reach of local shops and restaurants.
TWO DOUBLE BEDROOMS - BATHROOM EN SUITE SHOWER ROOM - OPEN PLAN KITCHEN/RECPETION ROOM - FRENCH WINDOWS ONTO COMMUNAL GARDENS
SIX BEDROOMS - SIX BATHROOMS - THREE RECEPTION ROOMS FAMILY ROOM/SIXTH BEDROOM - KITCHEN/BREAKFAST ROOM GARDEN - STAFF FLAT - COMMUNAL GARDENS AND TENNIS COURT
£1,450 per week
£6,250 per week
DR AYCOTT PLACE, SW3
CHELSEA TOWERS, SW3
This fantastic, loft style apartment, on the top two floors of an elegant building close to Sloane Square underground and the King’s Road, benefits from a large, open plan, reception room, which incorporates a modern kitchen and dining space, leading to a separate study. Both of the double bedrooms are well thought out and of a good size with modern en-suite bathrooms and excellent storage.
This stunning corner apartment, in a well-run portered building in the heart of Chelsea has just been completely renovated throughout in an elegant contemporary style. The bathrooms have been beautifully designed and the kitchen is sleek and modern. Situated on the 8th floor this flat has wonderful panoramic views north to the V and A museum and south to Richmond Park.
LOFT STYLE RECEPTION/KITCHEN - STUDY - TWO DOUBLE BEDROOMS - TWO BATHROOMS - UTILITY ROOM/CLOAKROOM EPC RATING E
TWO DOUBLE BEDROOMS - LIVING ROOM/DINING ROOM - OPEN PLAN KITCHEN - ENSUITE BATHROOM/DRESSING ROOM - SHOWER ROOM PORTERAGE - LIFT - COMMUNAL GARDEN
£1,750 per week
117 Sydney Street London SW3 6NR Lettings: 0207 351 7822 or email@example.com
£775 per week
NO ONE NEEDS PERSUADING AS TO WHY THEY SERVICE THEIR CAR, YACHT OR PLANE. BUT THERE HASNâ€™T BEEN AN EQUIVALENT FOR THEIR HOME UNTIL BOLD & REEVES
CONVENIENCE. PEACE OF MIND. VALUE. INFO@BOLDANDREEVES.CO.UK | 020 7408 7590 | BOLDANDREEVES.CO.UK
A new age You service your car, yacht and private jet, so why not your house? Bill Shipton, managing director of Bold & Reeves in Mayfair, doesn’t understand why either. He explains how he created an innovative platform to ensure property maintenance is convenient, cost effective and, above all, stress-free
PHOTOGRAPHY ©SAREL JANSEN
old & Reeves started in 2012 when I was looking for a service that could provide a turn-key outsourced solution for the management of high-end properties in London. I couldn’t find one. So I started a joint venture with a Middle Eastern family, who had 15 London residences that needed quality management, and the Sunley Group, a long-established British property company with experience of residential construction and maintenance. We found that the usual surveyor’s report on purchase of a property was rather rudimentary – it just shows that the roof is alright or that there’s no subsidence. The key thing the report won’t tell you is what it will cost to run the property. What are the moving parts, what needs to be serviced and what will be the cost of that periodic maintenance? That’s where we come in. Bold & Reeves operates around two key principles: ‘proactive maintenance’ and ‘continuity of knowledge’. Proactive maintenance is rather like servicing a car. You service your car because you don’t want it to break down. People aren’t used to thinking about their property like that. However, to prevent a boiler breaking down or an air conditioning unit packing up, all it needs is regular servicing, costing you less in the long run when the situation comes to breaking point. Bold & Reeves deals with this through a comprehensive health check of a property. This audit varies depending on the homeowner’s requirements but could include: creation of floor plans and electrical plans, a review of current maintenance suppliers, identification of all maintenance tasks and recommendations as to frequency.
? What’s in a name? bold (bəʊld) n. from Old English. House, dwelling-place, mansion, hall, castle. Related to build. reeve (ri:v) n. Anglo origin. Administrative official, manager of a manor. As in shire-reeve (predecessor to the sheriff). Earliest form of estate manager.
The second part, continuity of knowledge, occurs through the Bold & Reeves logbook (available as a website and app), where each audit, check-up and service is stored electronically. It can be accessed by the homeowner at any point to see any planned maintenance (as suggested by Bold & Reeves in the first audit), any reactive tasks (of things unexpectedly breaking), and enhancements (developments to the property, such as an extension). I have rarely come across somebody who has knowledge of who has fixed what, when and for how much. By aggregating all that information in one easy-to-use resource, Bold & Reeves can help homeowners keep on top of their property maintenance. In that respect, it’s like the logbook in a car glovebox. It will ensure properties ‘break down’ less often and cost less. It also proves useful both at the time of selling and also for insurance. People who are time-poor are not able to stop and worry about these things.
The logbook records every task with an audit trail from when it was reported to when it was completed. There is also a schedule to see which tasks are coming up, electronic records of the property, and photographs listing details of serial numbers and brands of all equipment. This not only provides information to the homeowner but also to the subcontractor called to fix a problem, which ensures the turnaround time is as little as possible. Our cutting-edge technology can be accessed at any point and anywhere in the world. Plus, there is just one number to call that is open 24/7, two property managers on an account and only one bill to pay each month. We call our subcontractors ‘partners’ as they undergo vetting and security checks to ensure they are of the right calibre and provide services at discounted prices. We have more than 200 in our little black book. The price for a car without service history is significantly lower. The principle for our properties is the same. When we took on a 16,000sq ft property in The Boltons, the homeowners were spending about £350,000 a year on maintenance, as well as issues they weren’t able to solve, such as damp. It took Bold & Reeves about 18 months to reduce the running costs to £125,000, as well as eliminate the problems. That’s a really meaningful reduction in costs, let alone in hassle. Bold & Reeves helps deliver value, whether it’s reduced maintenance costs, cheaper insurance or enhanced premium value to the property as and when you come to sell it.
How it works
Bold & Reeves completes a detailed property health check, highlighting what services will be required throughout the year
A personal property manager is allocated, who is available 24/7
The homeowner is given access to the Bold & Reeves online logbook with the property’s service history and future tasks
Access is given to the partner network so the property receives regular servicing from experienced subcontractors
All past, present and future property reports and analysis are available at the click of a button
52 Mount Street, W1K, boldandreeves.co.uk
LU X URY LONDON.CO.UK | 123
Property news Is Brexit old news? Elena Dimova, managing director of CENTURY 21 Sophia Elena, ponders the impact of Brexit on the City and the property market Are financial institutions really moving to Dublin, Frankfurt or Paris? Much like Brexit, it is not simply a case of “in” or “out”, as we cannot switch off the long-established European legislation that governs us overnight. The fortunes of the London-based financial firms are tied to those of its people. There is much in the press about Bank of America and Dublin, Morgan Stanley and Frankfurt. What we need to consider is, if financial jobs were to leave London, what type of jobs would these be and how would the London property market be affected? A financial firm’s biggest asset is its people, and they have relationships and families. Their knowledge and experience cannot be easily replicated in another country, where there are simply not as many people with the background needed. Uprooting one’s life is not straightforward, as usually a family has more than one member with a job or going to school, or with commitments in London that will take precedence. Senior executives are more mobile. Junior back-office staff can be trained outside of the UK more quickly if needed. Irrespective of the deal the UK government agrees for London, with the bulk of the front-office or highly skilled jobs, it will be difficult for financial firms to move people or find new people to do the same jobs. Therefore they will likely relocate the bare minimum to satisfy regulators and keep passporting rights. As the dust begins to settle over Brexit uncertainty, it is clear that the scaremongering around financial jobs leaving the City is exaggerated. In fact we are already seeing renewed interest in London property.
CENTURY 21 Sophia Elena, 10 Clarendon Road, W11 3AA, 020 7229 1414, century21uk.com
Up for debate
Council agrees compulsory purchase over Stamford Bridge Rights of Light challenge Hammersmith & Fulham Council has outflanked a residential Rights of Light challenge (which gives residents the right to 50 per cent natural light in their homes) to the proposed new Chelsea FC stadium. Councillors decided in January on a compulsory purchase of the air rights over part of Stamford Bridge and the adjacent railway line. A High Court injunction over Rights of Light by residents of Stamford Cottages, next door to the football ground, threatened to bench plans for a £1bn 60,000-seat Herzog & de Meuron-designed upgrade to Abramovich’s team’s home. Hammersmith & Fulham’s decision to take back control was apparently rubber-stamped within five minutes at the Council meeting and effectively quashes the Rights of Light legal challenge. The Council’s new air rights will be leased back to the football club and Network Rail, allowing the stadium development to push on. A solicitor acting for the family has said they will “take all legal action available”, which could involve a judicial review, but in the meantime construction is a go. Around 50 homes were identified as likely to be affected by Rights of Light issues as a result of the new “cathedral of football”; Chelsea FC is pursuing more genial terms with most of them and reports suggest that terms have already been agreed on 60 per cent of the affected homes.
PrimeQResi JOURNAL OF LUXURY PROPERTY
Images courtesy of one point six
Moving with the times Strutt & Parker’s Gabriella Gyngell on the rental trends to watch
Record result for One Point Six at Kensington’s Observatory Gardens Recently launched property development firm One Point Six has achieved an impressive result with one of its first projects, boosting the value of a flat in Observatory Gardens by nearly 50 per cent and setting a new price per square foot record for the well-regarded Kensington scheme. Having been acquired by sister company The Collection for £1.98m in the aftermath of the Brexit referendum, the team spent the best part of a year turning the property into a “sophisticated” three-bed residence, with two balconies, a 24-hour concierge, and underground parking. The finished article was offered up with a year’s full management package from luxury concierge provider Quintessentially. Contracts were exchanged at the start of the year at £2.89m, with a rate of more than £2,500 per sq ft, setting a new record for the development. The impressive building off Campden Hill Road was bought by the astronomer Sir James South in 1827, who built an observatory in the gardens and renamed it Observatory House. Having suffered bomb damage during World War II, the building fell into disrepair but was brought back from the brink by Northacre as luxury apartments, which remain some of the most sought after in prime central London.
In prime central London, rents are set to increase more than house prices in 2018, and experience steady growth in the long term. While interest in prime central London rentals continues to rise, we consider the trends we are seeing currently, and those we expect to see more of in 2018. Firstly, if you can’t sell, rent. Stamp Duty and other factors have had an impact on the residential sales market, and while transactions are taking place, properties can sit on the market for longer than the owner would like. Some vendors have become landlords to bridge the gap. Lettings can move faster than sales; in one of our offices, a property that was on the market for six months was let to a family after just one viewing. Secondly, try before you buy. A common driver for rentals is location; people want to live closer to work and good schools, or simply want to try an area before committing to a property. With the influx of former properties for sale in the rental market, which are normally in excellent condition, we are now taking enquires from people who are open to renting a property with a view to purchasing it in the future. Finally, consider international influence. Tenants hailing from countries with more established rental cultures will not accept any quality gap between properties to rent versus those for sale, an expectation echoed across the whole prime central London rental market. Consequently, successful landlords maintain their properties to an exceptionally high standard. If you are considering renting your property, talk to an experienced lettings agent who both understands and meets the challenges of the current market.
Strutt & Parker 140 Fulham Road SW10 9PY 020 7373 1010, struttandparker.com
LU X URY LONDON.CO.UK | 125
Conway House, Chelsea SW3
£1,125 per week* Furnished/Unfurnished
A fabulous two bedroom apartment with a south-west facing drawing room, in this highly sought after address in the heart of Chelsea. Entrance hall | Reception room | Kitchen | Master bedroom with ensuite bathroom | Second bedroom | Shower room | Communal Gardens | Residents parking | Concierge/porter EPC rating C 1,081 sq ft (100 sq m)
Chelsea 020 3813 9547 firstname.lastname@example.org *The following Tenant Charges may apply prior to tenancy commencement: Tenancy Agreement £222 (inc VAT) Credit References per application £54 (inc VAT). All advertised prices are excluded of utility and other associated services.
60 Offices across England and Scotland, including prime Central London.
Eaton Mansions, Belgravia SW1
£3,500 per week* Unfurnished
A contemporary three bedroom lateral mansion flat located in a period building in Belgravia. Reception room | Kitchen/breakfast room | Master bedroom suite | Two further double bedrooms with ensuite bathrooms | Study/library | Utility room | Cloakroom | Lift | Porter | Communal garden EPC rating C 2,745 sq ft (255 sq m)
Knightsbridge 020 3813 9270 email@example.com *The following Tenant Charges may apply prior to tenancy commencement: Tenancy Agreement £222 (inc VAT) Credit References per application £54 (inc VAT). All advertised prices are excluded of utility and other associated services.
Sloane Court West, Chelsea SW3
A highly regarded, handsome red brick building a short walk from Sloane Square. Entrance hall | Reception room | Kitchen | Master bedroom with ensuite bathroom | Two further double bedrooms | Family shower room | Resident porter | Lift | Access to communal gardens (upon application) EPC rating D 1,496 sq ft (138 sq m)
Chelsea 020 3813 9448 firstname.lastname@example.org
60 Offices across England and Scotland, including prime Central London.
Petersham Place, Kensington SW7
A fabulous three bedroom mews house over three floors only.
Entrance hall | Drawing room | Kitchen | Three bedrooms | Two bathrooms (one ensuite) | Study (originally used as a garage) EPC rating D 1,580 sq ft (146 sq m)
South Kensington 020 3930 2697 email@example.com
Abingdon Road, Kensington W8
An impressive five bedroom maisonette, with its own private entrance, excellent entertaining space and a terrace. Entrance Hall | Reception Room | Kitchen/breakfast room | Five bedrooms | Three bath/shower rooms | Study | Terrace EPC rating D 1,541 Sq Ft (143 sq m) Kensington 020 3813 9477 firstname.lastname@example.org
60 Offices across England and Scotland, including prime Central London.
Palace Gardens Terrace, Kensington W8
A very special four bedroom maisonette over three floors with wonderful entertaining space and a charming garden. Entrance hall | Drawing room | Kitchen/breakfast room | Family room | Four bedrooms | Three bathrooms | Two cloakrooms | Two studies | Garden EPC rating D 2,458 sq ft (228 sq m)
Kensington 020 3813 9477 email@example.com
2 0 0 R E G E N T S T R E E T, L O N D O N , W 1 B 5 B N
Published on Feb 16, 2018
Published on Feb 16, 2018
The sister to the Kensington & Chelsea Magazine showcases news concerning local residents and events happening in and around the Royal Borou...