TRAVEL
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Something Old, Something
The decadent imperial culture of Vienna draws Hannah Lemon into the city’s royal palaces, hotels and museums but with enough flair to bring its rich history waltzing into the 21st century
ienna has been the breeding ground for monumental music; Schubert and Strauss (known as the Waltz King) were born and bred in the romantic city, while Mozart and Beethoven came here to be inspired by the rich culture, architecture and history. As I arrive at the Hotel Imperial, which sits on the Ringstrasse – a boulevard of show-piece buildings built on the order of Emperor Franz Joseph I of Austria in the 19th century – I can see that this musical influence is imbedded in the recent €11 million renovation of the building. The lower floor provides a convenient path from the grand entrance, to the piano bar etched with musical notes, through to the konzertkassen (music hall) across the road. Interior designer Alexander Kravetz later tells me that the renovation took place in a “jazz environment” where there was lots of musical “improvisation” in the selection of materials and design ideas. We’re greeted by GM Klaus Christandl, the perfect Austrian gent; he is formal, smart and greets everyone by name with a courteous bow and smile. He points out the portraits of Prince Philipp of Württemberg and his wife Archduchess Maria Theresa of Austria, for whom the hotel (originally a palace) was built. A marble corridor down the side of the building has a timeline illustrating through images and text the hotel’s illustrious guests from Richard Wagner, Emperor Franz Joseph, Johannes Brahms, Charlie Chaplin, Sigmund Freud and HM The Queen to more modern pop stars such as Michael Jackson, Lady Gaga and the Rolling Stones. The latter list is something the staff are particularly keen to highlight; Vienna is not the city of old that some people think it is. I’ve only walked to the lift and I’m already in awe. However, as the doors ping open and my suitcase is
wheeled into a deluxe suite, I stand agog. Beautiful blue drapes fringed with gold tassels sashay around the window, an oil painting of a Viennese aristocrat hangs above a writing desk and sofas, and the impressive bathroom comes complete with a sparkling chandelier. It’s my very own Viennese palace. After I’ve freshened up, I am hailed (reluctantly) from my lavish sanctuary to sample Wiener schnitzel at Café Imperial Wien. If you haven’t tried traditional Viennese cuisine before, this is definitely the place to start. The food is a simple but appetising take on traditional recipes; consommé with semolina dumpling to start, followed by schnitzel and plum cake for dessert.
The bathroom comes complete with a chandelier; it’s my very own Viennese palace The strip of battered veal is the highlight, mainly because of its size (it looks like a large deflated beach ball is covering my plate). I am told to get used to the epic portions because, apparently, the Viennese love to eat. I don’t doubt it, judging by these generous helpings. After our meal, we wander to Schloss Schönbrunn, the summer residence of Emperor Franz Joseph and his wife Empress Elisabeth (more popularly known as Sisi). For a summer residence it is a most enviable size; the elaborate building is supported by elegant pillars and through an archway by the entrance you can see down to the end of the beautifully sculpted park. We are shown round the exquisite Rococo style rooms by a tour guide whose passion for the imperial lifestyle is evident; he even lives in the palace grounds. We learn about the
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