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04/05/2016 14:58


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CONTENTS June 2016 Features

46 A page Turner

Regulars

18 Shelf life

A new tome brings a fresh insight into English landscape painter J.M.W Turner’s early career

10 Editor’s letter

54 House of cardies

12 Five minutes with... Marc Hare, self-taught designer and founder of footwear label Mr Hare

Andrew Martin looks back at why Mayfair has provided the perfect canvas for stories through the ages

22 Generation game Le Gavroche celebrates 25 years with Michel Roux Jr. at the helm

The Fashion and Textile Museum prepares to host a new exhibition dedicated to Missoni

70 An eye for detail 26 Comedy of manners Meet Whit Stillman the scriptwriter, director, producer and comic genius behind the film Love & Friendship

Custom spectacle maker, E.B. Meyrowitz, continues to remain practically peerless

Five British and Irish fashion designers celebrate the revered author’s 150th birthday

We discover the quirkiest summer gifts and catch up on the latest news and events from around Mayfair

99 Remembering Mayfair The memoirs of Harriette Wilson reveal past secret soirées in the area

84 Smile like you mean it 30 The tale of Beatrix Potter

14 Couture culture

As national smile month kicks off, it’s time to refine the health and appearance of your teeth

92 City break 40 Time is money Chris Hall reports on the most compelling launches of Baselworld

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Rich in culture with UNESCO World Heritage Sites and fine dining, Sarah Siese looks to Weimar

34 Collection

51 Fashion

81 Health & beauty

92 Travel

43 Art & antiques

77 Interiors

88 Food & drink

100 Property

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WELCOME TO OUR WORLD

Breitling reinvents the connected watch firmly geared towards performance. Every inch an instrument of the future, the Exospace B55 multifunction electronic chronograph pushes the boundaries of comfort, ergonomics and efficiency. The titanium case of this compendium of innovations houses an exclusive SuperQuartzTM caliber chronometercertified by the COSC and featuring a range of original functions tailormade for pilots and men of action. Welcome to the world of precision, feats and high-tech sophistication. Welcome to the vanguard of instruments for professionals.

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05/04/2016 09:26


EDITOR’S LETTER

J U N E 2 0 1 6 s i s s ue 0 5 7

Acting Editor Hannah Lemon

From the editor

Deputy Editor Katy Parker Contributing Editor Lauren Romano Jewellery Editor Olivia Sharpe Watch Editor Richard Brown Editorial Assistant Marianne Dick Brand Consistency Laddawan Juhong Senior Designer Grace Linn Production Hugo Wheatley Jamie Steele Danny Lesar Alice Ford General Manager Fiona Fenwick Executive Director Sophie Roberts Managing Director Eren Ellwood

“You can never get a cup of tea large enough or a book long enough to suit me” C.S. Lewis Anyone who loves perusing novels as an adult usually has one title that had them hooked as a child. For me, it was The Faraway Tree and the surprising adventures of Moonface, Dame Washalot and Mr Watzisname. But for five British and Irish designers it’s Beatrix Potter who captured their imaginations. And to celebrate 150 years of her expert penmanship, they have come together to create a collection of unique cover illustrations (page 30). Meanwhile, in other parts of Mayfair, we look at how fictional literary figures make use of the area’s private members’ clubs, civilised soirées and luxury shops, including Elinor and Marianne of Sense and Sensibility, who enjoy a spot of retail therapy on Bond Street (page 18). Speaking of Austen, the 19th-century author’s epistolary work Lady Susan has been adapted for the big screen. I speak to American director, producer and scriptwriter Whit Stillman about the making of the blockbuster (page 26). Happy reading.

Proudly published by

Hannah Lemon

RUNWILD MEDIA GROUP

6th Floor, One Canada Square, Canary Wharf, London, E14 5AX 020 7987 4320 www.rwmg.co.uk Runwild Media Ltd. cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited submissions, manuscripts and photographs. While every care is taken, prices and details are subject to change and Runwild Media Ltd. takes no responsibility for omissions or errors. We reserve the right to publish and edit any letters. All rights reserved. DISTRIBUTION: The Mayfair Magazine is distributed in Mayfair, St James’s and Belgravia as well as selected parts of Knightsbridge and Chelsea

Members of the Professional Publishers Association

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Acting Editor Follow us on Twitter @MayfairMagazine

On the

cover

Hat, £3,900, Philip Treacy, Available at Fenwick; Dress, £1,990, Emilia Wickstead, emiliawickstead.com; Shoes, £486, Gianvito Rossi, Available at Fenwick; Necklace/brooch, poa, Garrard, garrard.com. All From the Official Royal Ascot 2016 Style Guide, ascot.co.uk (P. 53)

luxurylondon.co.uk A website. A mindset. A lifestyle.


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04/05/2016 11:03


Regulars

5 m i n u te s w i th . . .

I own about 120 pairs of shoes. Most of them are ones I made, as I have to test them out. There are far too many of them.

My favourite pair of shoes is a pair of rainbow flip-flops from the best-ever surf flip-flop company out in California.

Tsiakkos & Charcoal in Maida Vale; it’s Greek and it’s delicious.

They’re the ones I would run back for if my house was burning down.

I grew up in South London.

In 2012, I opened a store in Mayfair because it was in the middle of the best landscape for menswear. Jermyn Street

I was born in Croydon, but grew up in Brixton. I live in Putney now, on the river.

My dad was Jamaican and Jamaicans are notoriously very proud of their shoes.

has all the classic shoe shops, Bond Street is the main luxury destination in the world, and then there is Dover Street, which has a contemporary feel. It is the best area in London for shoes, if not the world.

That’s where my love of shoes first came from. And my mum’s very creative. She made money from drawing pictures.

Starting out was really easy, maintaining it is hard.

Marc Hare

I would like to have been an architect, but I didn’t really think about it when I was young enough to study it. I wouldn’t do it now because by the time I pass the exams I won’t have enough time to work.

The self-taught designer and founder of luxury footwear label Mr Hare likes to sniff My favourite designer is out European cuisine, the best boutiques Dries Van Noten. He’s Belgian and he is probably in Mayfair and new pairs of loafers the best menswear designer out there at the moment.

The most interesting people I’ve worked with are probably the Italians who make all our shoes. They are

I go to the Mayfair branch at least once a week. My role is creative director now. But the head office is in Notting Hill, so I spend most of my time there.

My favourite restaurant in London is probably The River Café, if I’m feeling really luxurious. If not, I head to 12

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: marc hare ©Jamie McGregor Smith; THE RIVER CAFé; HYGA EYE T-SHIRT, £85, DRIES VAN NOTEN, brownsfashion.com; MR HARE S/S16, MRHARE.COM

“I opened a store in Mayfair because it is the best area in London for shoes, if not the world”

quite fantastic at what they do. All the shoes are made down in Tuscany, between Pisa and Florence.

The best piece of advice I have received: never, ever give up. s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s


yayoI KusamA, MY HEART’S ABODE, 2016. Courtesy KUSAMA Enterprise, Ota Fine Arts, Tokyo/Singapore and Victoria Miro, London ©Yayoi Kusama

agenda A fantastical exhibition from the Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama has recently settled in at the Victoria Miro Gallery until the end of July. The show will see brand new paintings and pumpkin sculptures go on display, and the famous mirror rooms – which haven’t been on view in London since her major retrospective at the Tate Modern in 2012 – will be shown at the gallery’s Wharf Road outpost. Yayoi Kusama: My Eternal Soul, 25 May – 30 July, victoria-miro.com

Couture culture In our cultural round-up this month we review two historically important adaptations, discover the quirkiest summer gifts and catch up on the latest news and events from around Mayfair

theatre

1984

T

his powerful production of Orwell’s 1949 dystopian tale premiered in 2013 and has since gone on to achieve international praise after a sell-out tour. This month it returns to the UK for a limited 12-week run at the Playhouse Theatre in the West End. The cult classic is undoubtedly one of the most important novels of the 20th century

Matthew Spencer as Winston in the 2015 west end version of 1984. Photography by Manuel Harlan

and theatre company Headlong’s dynamic approach to staging proves a seamless match for this unsettling story. Any adaptation of 1984 is unlikely to be an uplifting affair, however this production will certainly inspire us to think – and to no longer take such a privilege for granted. 14 June – 3 September, Playhouse Theatre, WC2N playhousetheatrelondon.com

literary itinerary

For hundreds of years plants have been a source of inspiration for artists, poets and photographers alike, with even Claude Monet once stating: “I perhaps owe having become a painter to flowers.” Assouline has now dedicated a tome to the delicate and timeless craft of floral design, featuring photographs by Shiinoki Shunsuke as well as Ori Gersht, whose exhibition Floating World is currently on display at Ben Brown Fine Arts in Mayfair. With text by the French design journalist and expert Sixtine Dubly and a foreword by Architectural Digest’s current international style editor Carlos Mota, this resplendent hardback is perfect for wedding planning, horticultural inspiration or simply a vibrant summer addition to your coffee table. Flowers: Art & Bouquets, £55, published by Assouline. Available at Maison Assouline, 196a Piccadilly, W1J and Assouline at Claridge’s, Brook Street, W1K, assouline.com


Regulars

5 top picks

Image courtesy of altitude film entertainment ltd

Father’s Day Five unusual gifts for the man who has everything #1 Cocktail shaker, £8,950, Asprey, asprey.com

film

Race

E

ven though Jesse Owens broke records with his sprints, the new biopic of his life – starring Stephan James (of Selma fame) – is more of a marathon; which is unsurprising considering the complexity of his fascinating story. The film spans two years and begins in 1934 when Ohio-born Owens is getting ready to leave the family home to go to college, culminating in him winning four gold medals at the Berlin Olympic Games. His athletic success alone is a captivating enough tale, however the racial tensions in America plus the

political state of Germany made competing even more difficult for the extraordinary sportsman. There is always a huge amount of expectation surrounding the adaptation of a legendary historical story, and considering this, the team behind Race has managed to pack in an incredible amount of information and creativity. As we approach the 2016 Olympic Games, Race serves as a crucial reminder of prior injustices and inspires hope for a more tolerant future. Race is in cinemas 3 June altitudefilment.com

#2 Globe, £1,999, Bellerby & Co., bellerbyandco.com

#3 Magnifying glass, £1,180, Hermès, hermes.com

Fab28 refrigerator, £30,000, Smeg X Dolce & Gabbana, smeg.com; dolcegabbana.com

#4 Trinket box, £395, LINLEY, davidlinley.com

Smeg and Dolce & Gabbana have collaborated to create 100 extravagant refrigerators, all handpainted by Sicilian artists s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

#5 Pencil, £55, Tom Dixon, tomdixon.net 15


Local news

Sonia Boyce Image credit: Maya Bailey

Academician additions Floating world

Israeli-born Ori Gersht’s photographs often seem to find beauty in the most destructive or traumatic settings; whether it’s symbolic objects such as flowers and pomegranates or larger themes of war, such as the journey from Kraków to Auschwitz in White Noise (2000). His most recent series Floating World, which is currently on display at Ben Brown Fine Arts, depicts the ancient gardens of the Buddhist Zen temples in Kyoto. It is a place already full of unearthly nature, however, Gersht’s photographs manage to make the scenes appear even more transcendent. Ori Gersht: Floating World, until 16 June, benbrownfinearts.com

Clockwise from top: Evaders: Far off Mountains and River, 2009; pomegranate: OFF BALANCE, 2006; On Reflection, Virtual E02, 2014; All images ©Ori Gersht, Courtesy of Ben Brown Fine Arts

In Association with The Residents’ Society of Mayfair & St James’s Committee Members

Chairman

Lois Peltz (Policy & Traffic)

Secretary

Richard Cutt (Crossrail & Finance)

The Royal Academy of Arts has elected Sonia Boyce to join them as their newest Royal Academician in the category of painting. Boyce – whose celebrated work includes Five Black Women (1983), For You, Only You (2007 – 2008) and All the World’s Futures (2015) – is represented in the permanent collections of the Arts Council England and the Tate Modern. As well as this appointment, international artists Olafur Eliasson and Jenny Holzer have been elected as Honorary Royal Academicians and the Duke of Devonshire and Agnes Gund have been elected as Honorary Fellows. Royal Academy of Arts, Burlington House, W1J royalacademy.org.uk

Planning Applications Ronald Cottee (Planning)


Regulars

Garden party This month sees the Residents’ Society of Mayfair & St James’s transform

RSMSJ Chairman Lois Peltz and committee member YaSmin Parnes, 2015

the Mount Street Gardens once again for their inaugural summer garden party. To celebrate the 150th anniversary of Lewis Carroll’s Alice in Wonderland, the Residents’ Society has partnered with the Friends of Mayfair Library to create a Mount Street wonderland complete with book stalls and a treasure hunt. In addition to this enchanting theme, the party will also be packed with the usual treats such as Champagne, cocktails, canapés, live Cuban and Latin American music and the much-anticipated raffle – until carriages at dusk. Ticket prices will be £25 for members and £30 for non-members. Contact events@rsmsj.com or Howard Evans on 07950 776 704 if you would like further information

A celebration

In what will be the peak of the year’s festivities, The Fine Art Society this month presents A Celebration: an extensive show spanning all five floors of the Bond Street gallery to commemorate its 140th birthday. The society was founded in 1876 by a group of art enthusiasts and dealers whose aim it was to support the work of talented artists such as James McNeill Whistler and his

Membership

Howard Evans (Events & Membership)

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

pupil Walter Sickert, and also to present historic shows such as the major Katsushika Hokusai exhibition in 1981, which was the first of its kind in the Western world. Now in the 21st century, The Fine Art Society remains behind its E.W. Godwin façade and continues to display captivating works from a vast range of genres and eras. 6 June – 7 July, faslondon.com

Traffic Lois Peltz

From Left to right: HRH Prince Philip and Andrew McIntosh Patrick (MD) at the Centenary Exhibition; House at Ironbridge, 1956 by edward bawden; the fine art society exterior; All Images courtesy of the Fine Art Society

Police

Marie-Louise Burrows

Licensing

Derek Stratton

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mAYFAIR public library

PETER hARRINGTON

SOTHERAN’S

MAISON ASSOULINE

Turn up for the

books

From 18th-century socialites to modern day gentry, no fictional character seems to have been absent from Mayfair’s illustrious streets. In researching for his own novel, Andrew Martin looks back at why the place has provided the perfect canvas for stories through the ages


FEATURE

THE Art Room at the London Library. image Credit: Paul Raftery

M

y latest novel, The Yellow Diamond, is about the super-rich of Mayfair. There haven’t been many novels about this elusive audience, but I can’t claim any originality for the geographical setting. Mayfair is probably the most fictionalised district of London. In the early days of the novel (the late 18th century), when an address beyond the northern boundary of Hyde Park was considered dangerously provincial, the novel-reading and writing classes were concentrated in this beloved region. Jane Austen, for one, chose a lot of Mayfair. Fans track the social status of characters in, say, Sense and Sensibility by their precise location in the area. In the novel, Elinor and Marianne Dashwood go shopping, and it is mentioned only in passing that the venue is Bond Street, because really where else would they go for a spot of retail therapy? In William Makepeace Thackeray’s Vanity Fair, Rawdon Crawley and his wife are broke but still manage ‘a very small comfortable house in Curzon Street’ (mainly by defaulting on their creditors). There are not so many references in Dickens, whose centre of gravity was east, although in David Copperfield,

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Mr Micawber fantasises about a Mayfair residence (don’t we all?). This impecunious gent places an advertisement ‘in all the papers’, demanding to be employed ‘on remunerative terms’. He is so confident of something turning up that he plots a move from his lodgings in Camden. ‘He mentioned a terrace at the western end of Oxford Street, fronting Hyde Park, on which he had always had his eye, but which he did not expect to attain immediately, as it would require a large establishment. There would probably be an interval, he explained, in which he would content himself with the upper part of house […] say in Piccadilly.’ A minor character in Our Mutual Friend, Fascination Fledgeby, is one of many fictional people to live in the Albany. Others include Jack in The Importance of Being Earnest and E.W. Hornung’s Raffles, the ‘gentleman thief’. In Arthur Conan Doyle’s novel, The Lost World, the adventurer Lord John Roxton inhabits that ‘famous aristocratic rookery’, and Doyle provides us with one of the best descriptions of a flat in all literature: ‘Rich furs and strange iridescent mats from some Oriental bazaar were scattered upon the floor. […] Like a dado round the room was the jutting line of splendid heavy game-heads […] with the rare white rhinoceros of the Lado Enclave drooping its supercilious lip above them all.’

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FEATURE

THE WORD IS OUT Pick up a bestseller, a first-edition or a coffee table tome from the area’s finest establishments Hatchard’s, 187 Piccadilly, W1V, hatchards.co.uk Heywood Hill, 10 Curzon Street, W1J, heywoodhill.com The London Library, 14 St James’s Square, SW1Y, londonlibrary.co.uk Maison Assouline, 196A Piccadilly, W1J, assouline.com Mayfair Public Library, South Audley Street, W1K, westminster.gov.uk/mayfair-library Peter Harrington, 43 Dover Street, W1S, peterharrington.co.uk Sotheran’s, 2 Sackville Street, W1S, sotherans.co.uk

THE ARTS CLUB

In the inter-war period, the exclusive area was the setting for novels about the Bright Young Things, including The Green Hat by Michael Arlen, which has been called ‘the definitive Mayfair novel’. It begins in Shepherd Market, where Arlen himself lived (in a flat overlooking Ye Grapes pub), and that particularly lively corner of Mayfair is well-evoked: ‘I have seen two butlers fighting in our lane. I have seen a very old noble woo a flower-girl in our lane […] and in our lane by night policemen solace themselves by smoking cigarettes into the crowns of their helmets…’ P.G. Wodehouse once described a map of his literary world. It was basically Mayfair, and he himself lived in a 16-room mansion off Park Lane. His imaginary Drones Club – where the members were described as ‘eggs’, ‘beans’ or ‘crumpets’ according to whether they greeted each other, ‘Old egg’, ‘Old bean’, or ‘My Dear Old Crumpet’ – was in Dover Street, once known as ‘the street of clubs’, because between 1910 and 1939 there were more than 30 based there (of which The Arts Club remains). Postwar Mayfair was not so widely chronicled. It was no place for a ‘kitchen sink’ novel of the kind fashionable in the ’50s, and anyway many of its kitchens – and its houses in general – became offices. But as Mayfair has revived, it is once again under the spotlight. The Cuckoo’s Calling – first of the Cormoran Strike novels by Robert Galbraith (J.K. Rowling’s alias) – begins with a fatal fall from a Mayfair balcony. A recent historical novel by Frances

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THE TIMES ROOM ROLLING STACKS, THE LONDON LIBRARY

Osborne, Park Lane, is set in a grand house at number 35 (today, that address denotes an office block). Among the many other references to Park Lane in fiction is the character called Landen Parke-Laine in Jasper Fforde’s fantasy novel, The Eyre Affair. His name is a punning allusion to games of Monopoly, in which landing on Park Lane usually ends badly. Indeed, a plastic property on a Monopoly board is the

Dover Street was known as the ‘street of clubs’ – between 1910 and 1939 there were more than 30 nearest most will come to a house in Mayfair, but novelists, such as myself, can inhabit the ‘golden parallelogram’ through their imaginations instead. And the exclusive clubs, gentlemanly charm and grand façades that materialise through the nib of these authors’ pens – whether they be from the Victorian era or the modern day – remain much the same. Andrew Martin’s novel, The Yellow Diamond, is published by Faber, faber.co.uk

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INTERVIEW

The pull of Pullman Adorn your walls with Art Deco-style posters depicting Tuscan roads lined with Cypress trees, or the sun-drenched beaches of the French Riviera. Francesca Lee finds out more

T

hink of the most glamorous destinations depicted in a 1920s Art Deco travel poster and you have Pullman Editions. Founded by Georgina Khachadourian and her husband Simon in 2010, it’s the sister company of the Pullman Gallery in St James’s. The idea came about when Simon, who is an antiques dealer, noticed the competitive market for winter sports posters. “He would go to auctions and see 1920s and ’30s posters sometimes selling for £30,000 upwards. We had the idea to create a business selling modern posters, but in the same style – at £395 each – and it really took off,” says Georgina. Located on Pimlico Road – one of London’s premier design districts – the gallery was formerly an alleyway and is an impressive space with a huge floor-to-ceiling shop window that lets the light flood in. “There are very few streets like this in London where most of the shops are independent – it’s a great place to be,” explains Georgina. “More than half our sales are made online, but passing trade is also frequent. I think it’s important to have a physical presence so customers can see the quality of our products.” Indeed, Georgina and Simon started their first collection with 18 ski posters. Such was the success that they then released a collection of car posters (Simon is a classic car fan) and a summer resort collection. The couple, who started off collaborating with a range of artists, now work exclusively with artist and prolific graphic designer Charles Avalon. “We love his Art Deco style – it’s instantly recognisable, and that’s what Pullman Editions is known for,” elaborates Georgina. Produced the same way they were in the 1920s and ’30s, the poster artworks are hand-painted to a size that is about half the size of the final posters. A high-resolution image is then scanned and it’s printed using traditional methods onto 100 per cent cotton paper. “Our posters are more colourful than vintage posters as in the past printers used restricted colour palettes due to costs – the more colour they had, the more expensive it would be in terms of production.” All of Pullman Editions’ posters are limited editions and it currently offers more than 100 different images. But which ones are the most popular? “I’d say Chamonix, Zermatt and Val d’Isère for the ski destinations, while the Côte d’Azur images are the most popular summer posters,” Georgina finds. The company has commissioned and

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Photography: ©Sarel Jansen

released several car collections, including Ferrari, Aston Martin, Jaguar and Bentley. As well as carrying on as they are – if it’s not broken don’t fix it as the saying goes – the couple have found there’s a high demand for private commissions. “We’ve done work for clients all over the world – from Mayfair to Bermuda – and we’re currently working on a project in Mustique,” says Georgina. But, which poster is Georgina’s favourite? “It has to be Route du Soleil,” she responds. That’s no surprise: somehow I think both she and her husband have found the road to success with Pullman Editions. 94 Pimlico Road, SW1W, 020 7730 0547 pullmaneditions.com

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Generation

game Mayfair favourite Le Gavroche is celebrating 25 years with Michel Roux Jr. at the helm with a string of pop-up events. Katy Parker meets the chef and his daughter Emily to talk family, food and the force of female chefs

O

n the day I interview Michel Roux Jr. and his daughter Emily, I am struggling to walk. Having finished the London Marathon the previous day, I am hobbling around on wearied legs and receiving some pretty bemused looks from passers-by in the process. Fortunately for me, Michel is no stranger to how I’m feeling, having run the same marathon a staggering 13 times; he has completed 20 in total. “It’s a great stress-buster,” Michel tells me. But looking at the chef, restaurateur and television star now, it is hard to imagine that he ever gets stressed. Michel started in professional kitchens at the ripe old age of 16, when he embarked on an apprenticeship with master patissier, Hellegouarch in Paris. “Apprenticeships are so important,” Michel tells me, “because you’re not only learning a craft, but you’re also learning life skills. You can’t beat hands-on experience”.


INTERVIEW

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INTERVIEW

Of course, as the son of Albert Roux and the nephew of Michel Roux, the chef was always destined for greatness, and benefited a great deal from the wisdom of his family members – “I grew up in the kitchen” – but Michel stresses the importance of expanding his learning outside the family. “While I was raised by two extremely good cooks – my father obviously, but also my mother, who was a terrific cook – it was important not to stay too long within the family circle. You go, learn your trade elsewhere, then come back.” In the same way, Emily left London at 18 to attend catering college in Lyon, before cutting her teeth in the professional world under the likes of Alain Ducasse in Monaco and at institutions such as Le 39V and the two Michelin-starred Akrame in Paris – where she indulged her passion for contemporary cooking. “I particularly enjoyed working [at Akrame] because chef Akrame has a modern style, and I

“What is great about London is that it’s not afraid to try different things” all photography: Issy Croker

would like to do more of that,” explains Emily. “I’m classically trained, but the ideas and processes that surround contemporary cooking particularly intrigue me.” Is that how her way of working differs to her father’s? “Definitely,” she asserts. “I prefer a lot less butter and cream, a lot more herbs and more freshness.” Michel nods in agreement but is quick to add: “There’s a spine that runs through my father’s, Emily’s and my cooking, which is led through seasonality, the importance of great produce and is still very French.” I wonder if being born into a culinary dynasty brings with it certain pressures. Emily assures me this is not the case: “I was brought up around food and restaurants, but there was no pressure whatsoever to become a chef or to go into that trade. My mum was quite the contrary – she asked me, ‘Are you sure you want to do that?’” Le Gavroche will celebrate its 50th year in 2017, and the restaurant is acknowledging 25 years of Michel at the helm with a series of pop-up events. I ask Michel why he thinks Le Gavroche has enjoyed such a sustained period of success in an increasingly competitive environment. “It is amazing when you think the average life span of a

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restaurant in London is five years and we’ve been here nearly ten times that,” he remarks. “It’s an amalgamation of several things that have made Le Gavroche so timeless: we’re true to our roots and are still inextricably French. We offer an experience that is about so much more than the food on the plate. While my father was here he spent the bulk of his working life in the restaurant and the same can be said for me.” And how has the restaurant scene changed in the past 25 years? “What is great about London is that it’s not afraid to try different things and testament to that is the fact that so many internationally renowned chefs are vying to be here.” Tonight I will be attending one of Le Gavroche’s pop-up events: A Celebration of Female Chefs, where we will enjoy a six-course feast prepared at the hands of Emily, the restaurant’s head chef Rachel and guest chef Angela Hartnett. I ask Michel and Emily why they think women are underrepresented in the profession. Michel responds: “There are many women in the catering industry, but they tend to be unsung heroes, like Rachel, the head chef here, who shies away from any publicity. Britain is doing a much better job than our contemporaries in France; they are still reluctant to accept female chefs into their kitchens.” Emily believes part of the problem is down to the hours and challenges women face when balancing their careers and having children. “There needs to be more communication between chefs to make women feel more at ease when it comes to having a family. They need to be able to take a little time off and be able to come back, and at the moment that is so difficult in the catering industry.” At the evening’s event, I revel in a foodie’s dream: seated next to London’s most discerning diner, Grace Dent, I munch my way through six courses of culinary brilliance, including a divine lobster and chipirón dish with squid ink beurre blanc – and at one point between the meat and fish dish, I receive a hug from Hartnett. Undeniably classic but with a modern twist, it’s clear that Le Gavroche is staying true to its roots, and that Emily, with her steely determination and evident ambition, is steering the restaurant – albeit gently – into the future. At this point in time, it’s about paving the way for the next generation. 43 Upper Brook Street, W1K le-gavroche.co.uk

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Whit and

humour

all images courtesy of curzon artificial eye


FEATURE

Beyond the petticoats, predictable romances and grand Georgian manors of familiar Austen adaptations is Whit Stillman’s deliciously cutting and perfectly assembled script for Love & Friendship. Hannah Lemon chats to the scriptwriter, director, producer and comic genius behind the film “It is the first time I’ve ever had a poster that I really, really detest.” The dry, sardonic tone of Whit Stillman’s voice reaches me down the phone from the US, with a quality and intensity not dissimilar to John Malcovich’s. We’re talking about the publicity for his new film Love & Friendship, which has been marketed as another rom-com for Austen fans, who, seemingly, prefer to read Pride and Prejudice mainly to reimagine Mr Darcy’s wet shirt or because it was recommended by Richard and Judy for a summer read. Stillman’s production is more intricate in its approach to Austen compared to the naïve meddling in adaptations of Emma or the flights of whimsy in Sense and Sensibility. Based on the British author’s novel Lady Susan, Love & Friendship follows the delightfully conniving and recently widowed Lady Susan Vernon (Kate Beckinsale), who, on announcing that she has “no money and no husband”, is on the lookout for both. By flirting with a suitor her daughter’s age (Reginald DeCourcy played by Xavier Samuel), toying with another woman’s husband (Lord Manwaring, Lochlann

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O’Mearáin) and dragging along the dim-witted (Sir James Martin, Tom Bennett), she sets out to manipulate situations for her own accord with the support of her American comrade in arms Alicia Johnson (Chloë Sevigny). In a similar style to his caustic comedies of high society – Metropolitan and The Last Days of Disco (in which Beckinsale and Sevigny also star) – Stillman has injected the script with a modern, quirky and wicked humour. This is something that has not made it to the promotional poster; there’s a period love triangle hinted at instead. “It turns off the people who might like it,” continues Stillman. “I’m not really keen on people saying it’s Jane Austen chic-lit, it’s Downton Abbey, it’s this or it’s that, it’s all the same or it’s a woman’s film. It’s one of the negative things in film business. Love & Friendship is a film for people who get it.” Not only do I get it, I can’t help but laughing out loud throughout. At every formal entrance and courteous conversation, Stillman (who wrote, produced and directed the picture) offers a surprise morsel of amusement. Characters are introduced with the solemnity of going to battle (be it a societal warfare of fine suppers, promenades and sharp tongues) – complete with the slow and steady beating of a drum – which is countered by captions describing characters’ traits: ‘divinely attractive’, ‘helps pack and unpack’, ‘a bit of a rattle’. For me it is Bennett as Sir James Martin who steals the show. His comic timing is ingenious; from a confused hello to awkward soliloquies, he

At every formal entrance and courteous conversation, Stillman offers a suprise morsel of amusement

from top: Frederica Vernon (SECOND ON THE LEFT) AND THE DECOURCEYS REACT TO THE RETURN OF LADY SUSAN; WHIT STILLMAN ON SET

has me giggling and cringing in a moment. One scene, in particular, where he delights in a plate of peas referring to them as “tiny green balls” and a “novelty vegetable”, while everyone else round the table politely avoids bursting out with a guffaw, has me in stitches. “When I saw what Tom was doing, I kept getting ideas and funny things we could add and do,” remarks Stillman. “So there were a lot of things added to his part to fill it out.”


FEATURE

Beckinsale, too, brings life to the fake humility and graciousness of Lady Susan and balances it fabulously with her devious plans and perfunctory barbed dialogue. On one occasion, walking through a square with Alicia, Lady Vernon is greeted by a man on the street to whom she sternly reprimands: “How dare you address me, sir. Be gone sir, I will have you whipped.” Her companion asks, “Have you never met him?” Lady Susan graciously corrects her with: “No, I know him well. I would never speak to a stranger like that.” Much like this scene, the rest of the script is almost Oscar Wildean in tone. “In most cases I tried to have everything written down by the start of the day,” explains Stillman. But the fluidity of his work process meant that when ideas came to light, he would add them in just before they were to be acted out on set. “I would be sending a PDF of new scripts and scenes to the assistant directors right as they were getting into the production van and then printing it out for everyone, which was cutting it a bit close.” Much like his characters, every sentence by Stillman is delivered with upmost sincerity, but still has me smirking on the other end of the line. The production was filmed on location in Ireland, the perfect setting for enormous stately homes, grand ballrooms and picturesque streets. Stillman refers to it as one of “the happiest shoots” he’s done. “This area around Dublin has retained its 18th-century quality and it was when there was a time of great wealth with aristocrats building these great houses. All the streets and squares retain that Georgian feeling.” Not only that, but he had an experienced crew to guide him. “In this case, they had more expertise than I did,” smiles Stillman. “They would bring all this excellent knowledge and

FROM TOP: LADY SUSAN AND ALICIA JOHNSON; LADY SUSAN AND Reginald DeCourcy

work: the pictures, the research, the theories.” He cites the progression of Lady Susan’s mourning garb as one example of their guidance, and its subtle evolution from black widow’s weeds to a rather seductive red corseted outfit. Stillman is an anomaly in show business. Having garnered promise after his first three films from 1990 to 1998, he spent more than a decade not in the industry at all. “I think a lawyer or someone I worked with, or a manager of some type, said after my first three films: ‘Whit, now you have to start doing things the industry way.’ So I started trying to do things the industry way and I had 12 years without a film. Whatever way I’m going to do it, it’s not going to be the industry way.” Stillman seems bruised by the “highly capitalised business” of TV and film and deems some of its processes “disrespectful”. But with Love & Friendship, he had the opportunity to work with a hugely supportive team from Castle Rocks, the Irish Film Board and up-and-coming producer Katie Holly. “That was the lovely thing about this project,” he says. “I wanted it to be totally secret and to do it at the right pace. It was going to take forever, to change this epistolary novel into something dramatised and comic. That’s the way to go if you can afford to – although, of course, you might have to get a bartending job.” Luckily for us, Stillman’s time for pulling pints is long behind him. Love & Friendship is released on 27 May, including at Curzon Mayfair

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Beatrix

ALL IMAGES of covers and swatches COURTESY OF Frederick Warne & Co

years

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very person’s childhood is wildly different in many ways, however it is rare to find anyone who hasn’t heard of Beatrix Potter’s charming tales and the irresistible characters within them. This is an admirable feat considering 2016 is the 150th anniversary of the birth of Helen Beatrix Potter, making stories such as The Tale of Peter Rabbit more than a century old, yet still adored by adults and children alike. To commemorate this milestone Penguin Random House Children’s will release a special collection of five of Beatrix Potter’s well-loved tales with colourful new cover designs by important British and Irish fashion designers. These alternatives to the classic ‘white covers’ are part of a year-long celebration organised by the

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Orla Kiely

This year commemorates the 150th birthday of the revered children’s author Beatrix Potter. To celebrate, five British and Irish fashion designers have made some marvellous modern-day amendments to the classic ‘white covers’

Cats Brothers

Potter

Preen

The tale of


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Henry Holland

The Rodnik Band

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publishers: a significant representation of how and why the stories are such an important part of our literary canon. One of the most comforting aspects of the tales that makes readers return time and time again is the distinct personality traits and human characteristics applied to each of the protagonists. The star of Potter’s very first publication, Peter Rabbit, is the most recognisable figure in the collection. The character of Peter – inspired by one of Potter’s many childhood pets – was conceived when she was writing a letter to her former governess’s ailing son. High-end Scottish knitwear and street-wear label Cats Brothers was bestowed the honour of reimagining this particular cover and transporting Peter into the 21st century. Designer Lindsay McKean approached the task by sketching and writing a profile of Peter, jotting down keywords such as ‘only boy, mischief, radishes, lost shoe, blue jacket’ and so on. “I think the appeal lies in the very observant way Beatrix picked up on funny little quirks of human personalities and transposed them onto the animal characters she drew,” says McKean. “I loved the idea of Peter being a naughty little kid, he’d be whizzing about the streets on his skateboard, nicking radishes from people’s gardens in his patched denim jacket and high tops.” With this in mind, McKean has transformed Peter from a rather cute bunny into a hell-raising rebel by updating his famous blue jacket to a denim bomber with statement patches such as ‘RAD(ISH)’ – tapping into the loveable rogue nature so well depicted in the text. However, it isn’t just the prose that has kept us all enthralled for so many decades, but the enchanting line drawings that feature alongside. Potter began sketching her many family pets as a child and as a young woman she was a talented

Beatrix Potter, 1892 (aged 26), Courtesy of V&A Museum

Born Helen Beatrix Potter, the beloved author had a privileged upbringing in Kensington. Her parents had both inherited their wealth from the cotton trade, however their interests were very much within the creative disciplines: her father enjoyed art and photography (some of the most precious photos we have of Potter were taken by him) and her mother was a socialite among artists and writers. Potter was taught at home by a governess, and often surrounded by pets, which were a huge inspiration for her tales. Although she was born in the city, she eventually moved to the Lake District, where she fully immersed herself in rural life, owning many farms and extensive land, which she left to the National Trust when she died.

Beatrix Potter standing, Courtesy of Beatrix Potter Society

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The Tale of Kitty-in-boots front cover, Image Courtesy of Frederick Warne & Co

The Tale of Kitty-in-Boots It is thought that Beatrix Potter abandoned The Tale of Kitty-in-Boots – ‘a well-behaved prime black kitty cat, who leads rather a double life’ – shortly before the First World War because of unavoidable interruptions. It may also have been due to the unenthusiastic feedback it warranted from her publisher. More than a century later, the story (which includes a cameo from Peter Rabbit himself) will be published alongside delightful drawings by Quentin Blake, who is renowned for illustrating Roald Dahl’s stories. Similar to Dahl’s darkly comic style, the original Kitty-in-Boots manuscript features a female black cat who disguises as a male and carries a gun – it is a tale full of mischief, humour and cases of mistaken identities. We can’t wait to read it! The Tale of Kitty-In-Boots will be published in hardback by Frederick Warne & Co. on 1 September 2016

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botanical artist, but her work went mostly unrecognised because of her gender. This particular project highlights the author’s status as an artist as well as a writer; Philip Colbert of The Rodnik Band – who was asked to redesign The Tale of Tom Kitten – has incorporated art references into his cover, reflecting the Pop Art influences within his all-encompassing music, fashion and art label. “I love the positive effect of primary colours and loose hand-painted lines,” says Colbert. “I wanted to stay true to the integrity of the character and liked the idea of mixing Tom Kitten with a pop aesthetic – having him live in a Mondrianstyle world.” Henry Holland’s The Tale of Jemima Puddle-Duck also draws on a similar aesthetic. His bold ’80s-style slogan takes centre stage reading ‘Clean up this muck said Jemima Puddle-Duck’ – a parallel to Potter’s blunt and often cutting narratives. Irish designer Orla Kiely has created a repeated motif cover for The Tale of Mrs. Tiggy-Winkle; a print that wouldn’t look out of place on the wall of a quintessential British home. “I remember reading her stories when I was young,” recalls Kiely. “What a pleasure to be asked to take a part in this project. I was glad; it was like meeting my old friend.” Finally, Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi of Preen set about the task in a similar vein to Kiely, picking up on feelings

of nostalgia for The Tale of Squirrel Nutkin cover, while also exploring Potter’s affinity with nature and the countryside. “They have an innocence to them that’s so pure and moral, we looked at the botanical prints from our S/S16 collection and the nostalgic mood of these prints was a perfect fit.” The worlds of art, fashion and literature are each inspiring and essential to our wellbeing; but when they come together they can be truly extraordinary.

“What a pleasure to be asked to take a part in this project, I was glad; it was like meeting my old friend” – Orla Kiely For children, these versions of the classic tales will ignite a new excitement for the timeless characters, and for adults they are an indulgent, nostalgic treasure. They inspire a sense of infinite possibility, which we often take for granted when we are young. As Beatrix Potter once said: “What heaven can be more real than to retain the spirit-world of childhood?” Beatrix Potter Fashion Designer Collection, £6.99 each, published 7 July, available at Waterstones Piccadilly, Hatchards and peterrabbit.com

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COLLECTION

Out of the blue Salma Hayek for Pomellato, photography: Mert & Marcus

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o illustrate the exotic allure of Capri, there is no one more suited to the task than the sultry Salma Hayek. The actress has returned as the face of Pomellato’s S/S16 campaign, shot by renowned photography duo Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott (of Mert & Marcus) in London. First launched in 2011, the bold pieces continue to live up to their namesake. Each one perfectly captures the Italian island’s colourful environment; precious earrings, necklaces

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and rings in turquoise and coral have been interspersed with ceramic beading and precious stones, including blue sapphires, rubies, amethysts, and tsavorites. This marks the first time Pomellato has incorporated ceramic into the Capri range and the innovative material has helped to reinvent this popular collection. Capri Ceramics collection, POA pomellato.com

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MBII

A PI LOT ’S WATCH SH O U L D EN DU R E E VERY T H I N G T H E PI LOT DO E S . The Bremont MB range is built in collaboration with British firm Martin-Baker, the pioneers of the ejection seat. At their test centre, the watches are strapped to the wrist of a crash-test dummy and shot out of the cockpit. Enduring forces of between 12G and 30G in the process. But this doesn’t mean the MB is built for endurance at the expense of performance. It’s a beautifully-engineered mechanical chronometer certified 99.998% accurate by COSC.

City of London Boutique 12 The Courtyard, Royal Exchange, London, EC3V 3LQ Tel: +44 (0) 207 220 7134


www.vanessagounden.com

55A Conduit Street, Mayfair, London, W1S 2YY


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Flying the flag

Jewellery news

In celebration of its new boutique in Mayfair, French maison Dior flies the flag for the UK with a selection of limited-edition jewellery and watch pieces that draws on the colours of the Union Jack. Among the collection, the Milieu du Siècle bracelet, ring and earrings set, along with the Archi Dior Bar en Corolle ring, have been decorated in either sapphires or rubies, with an abundance of diamonds. POA, available at 160-162 New Bond Street, W1S, dior.com

WORDS: OLIVIA SHARPE

Schwartz sparkle

Bird song Mexican jeweller Daniela Villegas delved into Salvatore Ferragamo’s vast archive and unearthed the Italian fashion house’s vintage silk scarves featuring colourful wildlife, along with the Ars shoe designed by the founder in the 1950s, as inspiration for her new capsule jewellery collection. The menagerie-themed line sees parrots, parakeets and other birds of paradise brought to life in necklaces, earrings, rings and bracelets crafted in sterling silver and showcasing green topaz and purple amethyst. The birdcage has become a Ferragamo hallmark and is therefore a recurring motif in Villegas’ collection, available now. From £165, ferragamo.com

Pearls of wisdom As June’s official birthstone, Mikimoto has fittingly dedicated this month to pearls. The Japanese jeweller, which is renowned for its exquisite collection of cultured pearls, invites us all to learn more about how these precious gems are sourced by the brand. This begins with a rigorous selection and culling process to ensure only the best are chosen. Once those Mikimoto CultureD Akoya pearlS 100” Uniform selected have been cleaned, next is the painstaking Strand, £19,500 process of matching each pearl by size, shape, colour and lustre so that they’re identical, before they can be drilled and made into a single Mikimoto necklace. Only then can the strand be hand-knotted using the finest silk thread. Finally, the piece is finished off with the M-circle logo charm; Mikimoto’s hallmark. Pearl Month, Mikimoto, 179 New Bond Street, W1S, mikimoto.co.uk s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

Type Lorraine Schwartz’s name into Google and a host of famous female faces will appear in its wake, from Beyoncé and Blake Lively to Kim Kardashian. As of this June, the New York-based jeweller to the stars will be available in Harrods, having become the first retail destination outside of the US to carry her coveted designs. Schwartz’s full jewellery collection, encompassing the red carpet, bridal and bespoke ranges, will be given pride of place this month in the department store’s newly renovated Fine Jewellery Room, designed by David Collins Studio. All pieces available exclusively in the Harrods Fine Jewellery Room from 1 June, harrods.com

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Watch news WORDS: RICHARD BROWN

speed merchant The London Marathon and Premier League now runs on TAG Heuer time

Every Ferrari driver would wear a Heuer chronograph engraved with his name and blood group on the caseback

Watch brand sponsorship may have seeped into every class of motorsport, but only TAG Heuer can claim to be the original horologic speedster. Before the company’s partnership with McLaren became the longest-standing watchmotorsport collaboration in history (1985 – present), the company had acted as the official timekeeper for Ferrari. From 1971, during the decade that constituted Formula 1’s heyday, every Ferrari driver would wear a Heuer chronograph engraved with his name and blood group on the caseback. Speed, you see, is in TAG Heuer’s DNA. Fitting, then, that the brand was the official timekeeper to the Virgin Money London Marathon in the year that Kenya’s Eliud Kipchoge set a new course record in 2hrs 3mins and 5secs. Not so fitting that I was offered a place as part of TAG’s media allocation. For the previous year, TAG Heuer had been uniting all of its over-achieving ambassadors under the social media slogan #DontCrackUnderPressure. It’s not the sort of jingle you need in the back of your head when three weeks before race day you realise the furthest you’ve run is eight miles, and suddenly your calf explodes. Putting a brave face on a pulled popliteus, I managed a halfrespectable 4hrs 38mins, staggering over the finishing line not so much cracked as utterly broken. Two days later, the Swiss manufacturer became the official partner to the Premier League. The most followed football


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Steel a looker Vacheron Constantin won plaudits for the contemporary nature of its Quai de I’Ile when the collection launched in 2008. Eight years later, the cushioncased timepiece, which features an exposed date indicator ring within its hour markers, is now available in stainless steel. The new material brings the entry level price of the Quai de I’Ile down from £45,000 to a less dizzying £10,500. Choose between a silver-toned or black dial. Quai de I’Ile in steel, Vacheron Constantin, vacheron-constantin.com

Relaunch of a sports star

league in the world will be running on TAG Heuer time – the company will be supplying referees with tailored versions of its Connected smart-watch, and fourth officials with timing boards shaped like Carrera timepieces. Attending the announcement was Claudio Ranieri – now, there’s a man who knows a thing or two about not cracking under pressure. The Leicester City manager has subsequently become a TAG Heuer ambassador himself. Welcome to the family, Mr Ranieri. tagheuer.co.uk

Girard-Perregaux celebrates its 225th anniversary with the relaunch of a sporty classic. Debuting in 1975, the original Laureato arrived in the decade of the steel sports watch, landing three years after Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak and one year before Patek Philippe’s Nautilus. The latest Laureato comprises a 41mm case and is 1cm thick. While the original housed an industry-leading quartz movement, the 2016 version is equipped with an in-house mechanical calibre, visible through a sapphire crystal caseback. Only 225 pieces of two variants will be made – one with a blue dial, the other with a silver. Interestingly, the watch takes its name from the Italian translation of The Graduate, Dustin Hoffman’s 1967 pivotal movie. Laureato, from £8,750, Girard Perregaux, girard-perregaux.net

A first for Chopard Baselworld saw the launch of Chopard’s first in-house perpetual calendar chronograph. The brand’s L.U.C. range of timepieces is where it houses its most high-end complications – the Perpetual Chrono, for instance, features a moonphase display that will deviate by only one day every 122 years. As both a COSC-certified chronometer and a perpetual calendar, this is a rare timepiece indeed. So rare, that it will cost you £61,710. L.U.C. Perpetual Chrono, Chopard, chopard.com

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Time is

money With the Swiss watch industry under pressure, watch brands big and small are striving to offer the best value possible. Chris Hall reports on the most compelling launches of Baselworld 2016

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oo often as a watch writer, you find yourself hearing – or repeating – the mantra of the uncurious: ‘a watch is worth whatever somebody will pay for it’. It’s a callous maxim that is as insulting to wealthy buyers as it is to craftsmen. It is deployed to snipe at price tags that seem to be hovering several thousand feet above reality, as well as the buyers happy to uncritically part with large amounts of cash. Yet it conceals an awkward truth – there is little discussion about value in the modern watch market. It’s an immensely thorny issue – many will simply say watches are a ‘passion product’, that beauty is in the eye of the beholder, and that you can’t put a price on happiness. Maybe that’s true; I’m not so sure. One thing is for certain: at Baselworld 2016, we saw a lot of watches whose most arresting attribute was their price. It’s undeniable that brands are having to chase sales harder than in recent years, and that’s being reflected across the board. Some have cottoned on quicker than others, which makes for interesting times. I’m not just talking about ‘cheap’ watches – whatever that may mean. This is about value, and no matter how hard that is to define, it exists at every level of the market. Take, for example, Jaquet Droz; one of the highest-regarded producers of Métiers d’Art

from top: Carrera Heuer Calibre 02 Tourbillon, £12,000, TAG Heuer; Angelus U30 Tourbillon Rattrapante

watches, mechanical automata and elegant dress watches. This year, it released stainless steel versions of its Grande Seconde range for the first time, with prices starting at £9,400, and rising to £17,900 for a very handsome dual time reference. It wasn’t the only high-end brand leaving precious metals to one side; Girard-Perregaux has taken the bold step of releasing the entire 1966 collection (its most mainstream range) in steel. This has brought the brand – which still sells six-figure tourbillons and minute repeaters – into the £5,000-10,000 range for the first time, and it’s a seriously tantalising prospect for watch lovers. We’re talking stylish dual time or triple calendar watches with in-house movements for around £6,000-7,000, and a shade over £5,000 for the standard automatic. Overall, prices have been reduced by approximately 17 per cent across the entire range. Elsewhere, Moritz Grossmann, Chopard L.U.C and Blancpain were all making similar moves. It’s not just about swapping steel for gold. Watchmakers are exercising all their cunning to bring out advanced, complicated watches at hitherto unseen prices. A couple of years ago, the watch world was stunned when Montblanc released a perpetual calendar – the Heritage Spirit Perpetual – for less than £10,000 (in steel, it costs £8,500). This year in Basel, Frederique Constant showed us its Manufacture Perpetual


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Calendar with a price tag of £7,480 in steel or rose gold plate. That is frankly astonishing when you consider that it’s produced entirely in-house (Montblanc uses a bought-in movement with another, separately sourced, perpetual calendar module on top). It’s also better looking than the Montblanc. It goes on. From meeting to meeting, we were confronted with watches that, in some cases, made us think a zero had been missed off the end of the figure. First prize in this category must go to recently revived alternative brand Angelus. Last year, it announced its return to watchmaking after a 40-year absence with the slightly odd U10 Tourbillon. This year, it wowed us with three new, highly-advanced pieces. All are seriously avant-garde watches cooked up by some incredibly talented chaps, but the U30 stands out in particular. It’s a flyback, splitseconds chronograph with a tourbillon, with a finely skeletonised movement and carbon-fibre case – yours for around £18,750. This is Ferrari watchmaking at Ford prices. Scarcely a handful of watchmakers can pull this off, and few at Baselworld were taking the risk to invest in new movements, let alone ones as complex as this. Back with the powerhouse brands, only one man could cause a stir two years running with exactly the same watch. TAG Heuer’s CEO Jean-Claude Biver managed it by finally ‘releasing’ the Carrera Heuer Calibre 02 Tourbillon, which we first saw in 2015. Tourbillons – love them or loathe them – are pretty much the definition of prestige watchmaking. You don’t need one on your watch, but they are so hard to make that they always command a high fee. Not any more. TAG Heuer’s Swiss-made tourbillon comes in at £12,000 – hardly small change, but a figure so unprecedented that Patek Philippe president Thierry Stern recently accused Biver of devaluing the very concept of Swiss watchmaking. How did he do it? In a move that may yet reverberate around the industry, Biver admitted that he slashed the usual profit margin on such a watch. So what does this all mean for the high street shopper? There is good news here as well. It can be the hardest area in which to define true value because most mainstream customers know – or care – less about the innards of their

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

From TOP: The Frederique Constant Manufacture Perpetual Calendar; BASELWORLD 2016; Jaquet Droz Stainless steel Grande Seconde, from £9,400; Girard Perregaux 1966 44mm, from £5,000

watches than us watch-obsessed geeks. But when a brand such as Tudor introduces its first in-house movement and barely changes the watches’ prices (as it did last year), you know you’re on to a good thing. It was more of the same this year, with the Heritage Black Bay Black, as well as a 36mm Black Bay, following suit. Design is also coming to the forefront – good-looking watches for less than £2,000 are usually scarce, but this year the likes of Oris, Junghans and revived-dive-brand Zodiac released cool watches that, while they owe a distinct debt to Tudor’s Heritage Black Bay, are great entry-level options in their own right. Baselworld 2016 was likely to be a tricky year. The focus on realistic prices is a cautionary sign of the times, but could prove a boon to buyers – freemarket economists would say that things are heading towards some sort of ‘equilibrium’. It is also telling that in the weeks after Baselworld, news started to circulate of a company called Goldgena (yes, terrible name), promising to “blow wide open” the “truth” behind Swiss watchmaking’s dirty tricks, exposing the fat profit margins and – not so altruistic, this bit – start marketing a range of Goldgena watches that claims to offer true value to the customer. At the time of writing, this amounted to little more than some naff ‘viral’ marketing videos and a good deal of hot air, but the key point being made here is one the industry might do well to heed; there is a perceived demand for openness. A watch is worth whatever somebody will pay for it – until, of course, they won’t.

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ART

EVERYDAY PEOPLE T

here’s something especially fascinating about watching clusters of humans interact in their natural habitats; happily for us peoplewatchers, photographer Massimo Vitali shares this voyeuristic tendency. Vitali started his career working in photojournalism, however he soon decided to take a more artistic approach. This led him to develop a style that is an unusual clash of objective scenarios and gorgeous, saturated colours: cool, azure oceans are peppered with bright, fleshy figures in a way that is inexplicably satisfying. To see his photographs in all of their sun-drenched glory, stroll along to the Ronchini Gallery. It is currently exhibiting Vitali’s later works in what is his first UK solo exhibition in five years – summer has certainly arrived. Until 18 June, Massimo Vitali, Ronchini Gallery, W1S ronchinigallery.com

Cala Mariolu Coda, 2014, by massimo vitali, courtesy of the artist and Ronchini Gallery

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Q&A with…

Art news As the weather starts to heat up, so does London’s art scene, with a range of shows from internationally renowned artists words: carol cordrey

Bright and beautiful A painterly, abstract artist, Barbara Rae exhibited her first solo show in 1967 at Edinburgh’s New 57 Gallery. Thereafter, her style roamed across energetically painted symbols and forms to calmer interpretations of the world, though the common denominator throughout is Rae’s juxtaposition of textured colour. South Alpujarra has a clashing palette that boldly defines the heat and disparate features of that Southern Spain location, whereas Lacken Boat has a more tranquil mood. Rae’s talents forged a path to her election as a Royal Academician and the awarding of a CBE. Her work is owned by numerous collections around the globe and this month can be seen at Portland Gallery. Barbara Rae, 2-17 June, portlandgallery.com

Flying colours Awaiting us at Stern Pissarro Gallery this month will be no less than 40 oils and works on paper by Russian-French artist Marc Chagall – most of which, until now, have been in a private collection that emerged only for brief public gaze at a 1989 exhibition in Bonn. Chagall is famed for his paintings and stained glass, the inspiration for much of it springing from his Jewish upbringing and Russian folklore. The latter lent a dream-like character to the work which, together with his love of colour, always set him apart from other artists and makes this rare show all the more special. Marc Chagall, Master of Colour, 16 June – 16 July, pissarro.net

Q: Antony Gormley is best known for sculpting human figures, such as the Angel of the North, so why have you chosen to work with him on prints for this exhibition and how did it come about? A: Drawings and prints are key elements of his working practice. Our specialty as a gallery is works on paper, so we approached him two years ago to create a cohesive exhibition of prints and this is the result. Q: The use of crude oil and petroleum jelly in printing is unquestionably innovative, was this process challenging? A: Antony continues to push himself in the most challenging ways. To make the Body Prints, Antony was covered in crude oil mixed with petroleum jelly and then ‘fell’ onto sheets of paper laid on the floor, creating several distinct standing poses. The size of the prints, combined with the use of a hazardous material, required experimentation and extensive planning. Q: What themes are explored in CAST? A: The exhibition explores how our physical freedom and imaginative potential are increasingly conditioned by the built environment. Antony Gormley: CAST, 13 May – 2 July, alancristea.com

Clockwise from top left: barbara rae, Lacken Boat, 39 x 34, mixed media on paper; barbara rae, South Alpujarra, mixed media on paper, 48 x 40 inches, both courtesy of barbara rae and portland gallery; Show, 2016, Crude oil, linseed oil and petroleum jelly on paper, 237.1 x 134 cm, Courtesy of Antony Gormley and Alan Cristea Gallery, London; Marc Chagall, Salomon; Marc chagall, Les Fiancés sur Fond Rouge, both Courtesy of Stern Pissarro Gallery, London

Alan Cristea as he unveils a landmark exhibition of new work by British sculptor Sir Antony Gormley RA


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Prize lots 1. Reclining Figure by Henry Moore OM, CH, FBA This month’s Modern British and Irish Art sale features a special collection from C.S. Reddihough, who was a close friend of painter Ben Nicholson and subsequently had strong ties with the rest of the Unit One artists. The movement included sculptor Henry Moore who was wellknown within Surrealist circles for his sensual and abstract reclining figures. Estimated value £150,000-£200,000, Modern British and Irish Art at Bonhams, 15 June, bonhams.com

2. Bords du Loing by Alfred Sisley

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Alfred Sisley was born in Paris to affluent British parents and sent to be educated in England, however the Impressionist painter chose to spend the later years of his life living in Moret-sur-Loing, a medieval French town on the edge of the forest of Fontainebleau. This picturesque position inspired many of his vibrant paintings, including this summer scene on the banks of the river Loing. Estimated value £1,500,000-£2,000,000, Impressionist & Modern Art Evening Sale at Sotheby’s, 21 June, sothebys.com

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3. Roman Notes V, from Roman Notes by Cy Twombly Cy Twombly is an artist who has often divided the opinions of many with his abstract sploshes and scribbles. American-born Twombly actually based himself in Rome for most of his life, where he could absorb the mythology and classicism that often inspired his work – including pieces such as this one from the Roman Notes portfolio. Estimated value £20,000-£30,000, Evening & Day Editions Auctions at Phillips, 9 June, phillips.com

4. Madame Hanka Zborowska by Amedeo Modigliani Amedeo Modigliani was an Italian-born, Parisianbased artist and sculptor who moved among the avant-garde characters in the French capital in the early 20th century, ultimately succumbing to the lure of absinthe and narcotics, which led to his untimely death. Despite this, his instantly recognisable work – such as this elongated, mask-like portrait of his dealer’s wife – continues to thrive. Estimated value £5,000,000-£7,000,000, Impressionist and Modern Art Evening Sale at Christie’s, 22 June, christies.com s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

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#1 image courtesy of bonhams #2 image courtesy of sotheby’s #3 image courtesy of phillips #4 Christie’s images limited 2016

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A Page

Turner

Jack Watkins delves into the latest tome on J.M.W. Turner that brings a new insight into the painter’s early career to life

“H

e lived to paint. Nothing else mattered,” writes Eric Shanes in Young Mr Turner. “For over sixty years he rose at dawn and painted with enormous energy until sunset. Everything was sacrificed to painting, sometimes brutally so…it is useless looking for a life beyond painting, for it barely existed.” An obsession with art meant Turner never married, instead finding fulfillment in the creative processes of his work. It is also why this small-statured man, uncouth and awkward in

This page: Fishermen upon a lee-shore, in squally weather, R.A. 1802, oil on canvas, Southampton City Art Gallery Left: Artist unknown but possibly Dr Thomas Monro, J. M. W. Turner at a drawing table, c.1795, pencil on off-white laid paper, Indianapolis Museum of Art


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polite society was nevertheless a great joiner of art clubs, suddenly at ease when talking shop with fellow painters. Despite being a tight-fisted hoarder, Turner would also devote much of his energy in later years to improving the lot of painters less financially fortunate than he was. Shanes’ book, Young Mr Turner: The First Forty Years, 1775-1815 may well be the definitive biography on the great British landscape and maritime artist, though it won’t be the last word from him, for we are promised a second part that will deal with the remainder of Turner’s life, resuming the thread from where it is dropped here in 1816, up until his death, aged 76, in 1851. As it is, this first part is a whopping great slab of a monograph, featuring 350 colour and 100 black and white illustrations. It’s Shanes’ tenth book on Turner and the fact that he is a professional artist in his own right, as well as an art historian, helps no end. Turner knew the career he wanted to follow from boyhood. The “supreme painter” of idealised English landscapes explored the banks of the Thames from Kew to Putney and further upstream at Eton and Windsor for subject matter. His love of maritime scenes, of men at war and fishing boats, turbulent oceans, sea mists and, ultimately, the


ART

effects of the setting sun, were fostered by trips to Margate. Quite early on he also learnt how to depict light reflecting off a building, and Shanes devotes much time to showing how brilliantly he handled tonality. A disciple of Joshua Reynolds, whose lectures at the Royal Academy of Arts expounded upon ideal beauty, Turner was also a seeker of the sublime. He learnt how to adopt a low viewing point for a surer command of perspective, and to make his buildings look even grander and more awesome in scale. Like many a later landscape photographer adopting a prone position in search of an unusual angle, Turner was quite prepared to sketch while lying on the soil. By 17, Turner’s work was on display in the Royal Academy and he was being hailed as “an extraordinary new talent.” No-one worked harder in refining his skills, or seeking subjects to draw and paint. Around this time he walked 120 miles through Wales in seven days, from the River Severn to Aberystwyth, before returning from Hereford via stagecoach. This gave him his first acquaintance with Tintern Abbey, which had long been a favourite subject for romantically inclined artists. A later tour through the Midlands was largely spent sketching the old cathedrals of Lichfield, Lincoln and Peterborough, and ruined abbeys such as Buildwas and Crowland. These images would be reproduced endlessly in publications over the decades. Given that his works continually reflected an interest in the derelict and run-down, some have speculated that Turner was a follower of the likes of William Gilpin and other advocates of the charms of the picturesque. Shanes argues, however, that this aspect of his work also conveyed his acute awareness of the passing of time. The obsession with decayed and crumbling structures, notably castles and religious buildings, appealed to his deep attraction to the past. A non-believer in the conventional religious sense, he was still deeply inspired by the majesty of Britain’s medieval cathedrals. Drawing and painting them on a massive scale, frequently exaggerating their proportions, reflected the spiritual dimension he felt in the stones. Turner was a famously gruff fellow, and in youth, was highly conscious of his ordinary appearance and lack of height. He was tough, though, steeled by adversity, and adept at bowing and scraping when it was necessary to make his way through the careeradvancing corridors of the Royal Academy. So

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this page: Dido and Æneas, R.A. 1814, oil on canvas, Tate Britain, London Left: Sun rising through vapour; fishermen cleaning and selling fish, R.A. 1807, oil on canvas, The National Gallery, London; Tintern Abbey, West Front, 1792, watercolour on paper, Henderson Bequest, British Museum, London

Young Mr Turner: The First Forty Years, 1775-1815, by Eric Shanes, published by Yale University Press, yalebooks.co.uk

though he despised convention, he knew how to work things to his advantage. Shanes offers interesting glimpses of Turner’s approach to business, such as the way he categorised the sale of his works, and how he was prepared to knock down prices for canvases that missed their initially intended market. Early setbacks when he’d been left out of pocket after undertaking a commission made him chase every penny. Delivering a commissioned picture by coach to the famous Sussex eccentric ‘Mad Jack’ Fuller, he received a cheque for the work on the spot and departed, only to return within five minutes. “Oh! I’d forgotten,” he told the laughing

Fuller, who ever after delighted in retelling the story to his friends, “there is another three shillings for the hackney coach.” Sadly Turner’s attempts at following in the footsteps of his great inspiration, Sir Joshua Reynolds, fell flat. His lectures at the Royal Academy were not in the same league. He had a meandering style, and his lecture on perspective was laughed at for being “ignorant and ill-written.” Shanes shows that, in fact, his talks were far from that. He had much in common with Byron, he says, being ready to “strike out in ways his contemporaries could not understand.” Long before the end of the book, though, Turner’s art had made him a wealthy man, sufficiently so to have financed the building of his own villa, Sandycombe Lodge, at Twickenham. Not bad for the cockney son of a Covent Garden barber and wig-maker.

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FASHION

Over the rainbow image courtesy of salvatore ferragamo

S

alvatore Ferragamo’s original rainbow sandal may look like it was designed for a member of Studio 54’s glitterati in the sparkling ’70s, however it was in fact created by the designer for Judy Garland in 1938 – making Ferragamo the likely pioneer of the platform shoe. In honour of this sartorial objet d’art, Sara Battaglia has collaborated with the splendiferous fashion house to create

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a modern capsule handbag collection, which takes inspiration from the wedge’s classic design and the brand’s renowned craftsmanship. Whether it’s a furry bucket bag that takes your fancy or a boxy golden clutch, Battaglia’s fairy-tale designs have the power to brighten up both your outfit and your outlook. The Sara Battaglia for Salvatore Ferragamo collection, available to purchase in stores and online at ferragamo.com

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Fashion

Hat tip

Style update WORDS: MARIANNE DICK

The new mini Just like the maison’s jewels, the new mini C de Cartier bag is small but joyous. The classic style is given a cheerfully modern twist, with a spectrum of colours: from a fresh peridot green to a deep and delicious burgundy. Featuring both smart handles and a crossbody strap, the mini C can be worn casually with jeans or dressed up with heels for all manner of summer fêtes. £1,180, cartier.co.uk

Kors a stir The polished and glamorous brand Michael Kors has arrived at one of the world’s most famous shopping destinations – Regent Street – following the recent opening of Kate Spade New York down the road. The store will be the label’s largest flagship in Europe, covering three floors across a vast 15,000 sq ft, and will include a menswear section. Jacqueline sandals, £345, Michael Kors Collection, 169-183 Regent Street, W1B, michaelkors.com s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

Royal Ascot is one of the most sartorially important events of the summer season, where flamboyance is not only encouraged, it is practically a rule. While the scale of peacocking is ultimately an individual’s decision, event supporters Fenwick of Bond Street and Hugo Boss have published a style guide to inform guests of the etiquette within each enclosure (pictured). Fenwick has also welcomed the Royal Ascot Millinery Collective for a second year: an exclusive range created by well-known milliners such as Rachel Trevor-Morgan, Stephen Jones and Philip Treacy. Royal Ascot will be held from 14-18 June, ascot.co.uk; fenwick.co.uk

Back to basics Renowned for its flatteringly fitted T-shirts and classic denim, LA brand Velvet by Graham & Spencer bought its off-duty style to the UK last month when it opened its first London flagship. Alongside simple ready-towear staples, the summer collection includes Moroccan-inspired prints, feminine slip dresses and crochetdetailed peasant blouses, in a range of neutral shades to add some laid-back luxe to your holiday wardrobe. Californian sunshine not included. From £88, 16-17, St Christopher’s Place, W1U, velvet-tees.co.uk

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House of

Cardies

Ottavio and Rosita Missoni, Image credit: Giuseppe Pino, 1984

As the Fashion and Textile Museum prepares to host a new exhibition dedicated to Missoni, the founders’ son and curator Luca Missoni speaks to Ellen Millard about growing up with the family business, wearing high fashion to secondary school and his parents’ global influence

C

ast your mind back to April, 1967: the Palazzo Pitti in Florence has been taken over by a siege of stylists, journalists and models dressed in bright knitwear ensembles. At the last moment, somebody notices that their bras can be seen through their tops and they’re told to remove them. They strut down the runway, unaware that the blinding stage lights

have made their lamé blouses completely transparent. The photographers go crazy; the show organisers go ballistic. It was this minor blunder that catapulted Missoni into the spotlight. Needless to say, the brand wasn’t invited back to the palace until 1970, but this only served to improve its prestige in the fashion world. Thriving on a sea of controversy, a blessing from Italian fashion editor Anna Piaggi and a far from decorous portfolio, the fashion


FASHION ‘La sala degli arazzi’ insallation of Ottavio Missoni’s patchwork of knitted fabrics at Missoni, L’arte, il Colore, 2015

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house powered on. In December that same year, the founders Rosita and Ottavio Missoni presented their show at the Solari swimming pool in Milan. Professional swimmers pushed knitwear-clad models around on inflatable armchairs created exclusively by designer Quasar Khanh. It turned out to be a pivotal moment in Missoni’s career. The founders’ son, Luca Missoni, remembers it well. “It was the very first event that I remember going to. The reaction from the audience was like a piece of theatre,” he recalls. “It was the first time I realised that our parents were doing something that people were getting very excited about.” Two years later the design duo met Vogue editor Diana Vreeland for the first time, who, on seeing Missoni’s

Missoni has pioneered the move for perennial style and is unique in its still family run status

CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: MISSONI IN Vogue Italia, 1969; Ottavio Missoni, Untitled, 1973, 173x98cm, acrylic on board; Gino Severini, Ballerina, c.1957, 81x59cm, oil on canvas; Ottavio Missoni, Arazzo, 1978, 207x204cm, courtesy of Fondazione Rosita e Ottavio Missoni; Ottavio Missoni, Untitled, 1971, 72x72cm, acrylic on board

signature technicolour designs, famously declared: “Who says there are only colours? There are also shades!” Shortly after, the label had a stand-alone store in Bloomingdale’s and was soon being photographed by a roll call of famous photographers, from Helmut Newton to Richard Avedon. Today, Missoni is ubiquitous. It has pioneered the move for perennial style and is unique in its still family run status. It’s a far cry from the early days when the label produced tracksuits, a nod to Ottavio’s former career as an Olympic track athlete and Rosita’s background in textiles (her family

ran a shawl-making company). It’s this trajectory – from sportswear enthusiasts to fashion heavyweights – that will be highlighted this summer at the Fashion and Textiles Museum’s exhibition Missoni, Art, Colour. First shown in 2015 at the MA*GA Art Museum in Gallarate – the birthplace of the Missoni brand – the exhibition has a new home in Bermondsey, presenting pieces from the label’s archive, which spans some 60 years, alongside paintings by leading 20th-century European artists who have influenced the brand, such as Sonia Delaunay and Gino Severini.


FASHION

Luca was given the enviable job of delving through the Missoni archive, a task he’s undertaken for several exhibitions before, including Missonologia in Florence and Workshop Missoni in London. The latest exhibition ignores chronology, mixing garments from different eras to give the audience an idea of Missoni’s timelessness. “It’s always more surprising than it is challenging when you start preparing and documenting the work, because there are always pieces from the past that are actually very contemporary,” Luca explains. “Even if there’s something from the early 1960s or 1970s or yesterday, they’re all part of the same look. That’s the nice thing: it’s never vintage.” It was a trip down memory lane for Luca, whose teenage years coincided with the start of the brand. I wonder if it was strange growing up in that environment, but Luca assures me that it felt normal. “It was something that I was just grown into, and it was the same for my brother and my sister. I think that’s the reality of a family business,” he shrugs. “We didn’t know at the time but we had some very trendy clothes as teenagers, amazing sweaters and shirts that we were given for Christmas. I remember we had these woollen jersey pants with a sewn pleat down the front that for us was normal because it was what our mother gave us to put on, but in school it was a little different. Our friends loved them; well, maybe not the jersey pants, but the sweaters.” A childhood spent behind-the-scenes of a fashion powerhouse has certainly served the Missoni clan well, as it’s hard to find a family member that isn’t involved in the business today. Luca designed menswear until 2008 before taking charge of the archive and events, while his sister Angela – the label’s creative director – is responsible for

womenswear, his niece Margherita the accessories line and his mother Rosita the homeware collection. “They’re not unique in Italy in being a family firm, but I think they are distinctive in the world of fashion as a whole because they still have control of their business,” Celia Joicey, the director of the Fashion and Textiles Museum, says. “The exhibition represents that sense of a family that is at all levels incredibly creative.” Missoni’s ability to create timeless motifs is in part responsible for its success. The famous zigzag print is recognised on a global scale, which makes the fact that it was born through a brief experiment with a machine all the more impressive. “That typical combination of colour and strong, graphic mark-making is immediately recognisable as a Missoni statement and it’s exciting that they haven’t turned their back on what they’re best known for,” Celia agrees. “It may not be that everybody has had the wherewithal to own a Missoni garment, but what we’ve already got a sense of is just what a strong brand identity they have and what a huge appreciation there is for that Missoni look.” More than six decades since the Missoni label was born, how has the fashion house continued to keep up with an industry that’s constantly changing? “We have a great heritage and we try to keep it exclusive, not in terms of choice, but in the way that it’s made,” Luca says. “Missoni is iconic in many ways because it’s not just one symbolic thing. It’s more like a language of many other items that are put together, and they work as a whole.” Here’s to the next 60 years. Missoni, Art, Colour, until 4 September, Fashion and Textile Museum, 83 Bermondsey Street, SE1, ftmlondon.org

The Forms of Fashion installation of Missoni garments dating from 1953 to 2014

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Photographer: Ian Walsh

Wild thing

S t y l i s t: V a n i s s a A n t o n i o u s

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FASHION Clockwise from top left: Small trotteur shoulder bag in printed watersnake, Céline, £1,950, 103 Mount Street, W1K; Double circle gold-plated earrings, Arme De L’Amour, £195, net-a-porter.com; Suede and python shoes, £925; Galleria crocodile bag, £10,220, both Prada, prada.com; Zebra calf hair sandals, £480, Marni, marni.com

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Fashion

An adventure in style Orlebar Brown’s spring collection is inspired by the adventures of the early 20th-century Mato Grosso jungle explorer Colonel Percy Fawcett and the flora and fauna that he would have encountered on his expeditions. Brazilian-inspired printed shorts are styled with cool and comfortable towelling polo shirts; while seersucker enjoys a season in the limelight. In case that wasn’t enough, the brand has also joined forces with Linda Farrow to produce a capsule sunglasses collection for a faultless finishing touch. 24 Sackville Street, W1S, orlebarbrown.co.uk

Style spy WORDS: MARIANNE DICK

Fast fashion For the second year running, Hackett is the official clothing supplier for Williams Martini Racing. To celebrate this partnership, the brand has released a viral video of pro longboarder Liam Morgan tackling the Paul Ricard race circuit at 70mph – while fully clad in Hackett’s new limited-edition racing suit. The suit is made from lightweight wool, is waterproof and boasts a flexible fabric for adrenaline junkies both in the office and on the track. £700, 193-197 Regent Street, W1B, hackett.com

Spec-tacular Dunhill has just launched its S/S16 eyewear range, which offers the best of British design paired with sharp Italian engineering from De Rigo Vision. The collection offers four different styles including Icon – aimed at those with an individual, statement look – and Heritage – which harks back to the brand’s automotive history. From a selection, Bourdon House, 2 Davies Street, W1K, dunhill.com s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

Well-groomed A man’s morning ritual is an important intermission when he can reflect and prepare for the day ahead. Acqua di Parma has introduced three new additions to its Collezione Barbiere range to make this time even more enjoyable: including a new almond oil beard serum (£30) that will leave facial fuzz exceptionally silky, and a cooling eye roll-on (£39) for early starts and late finishes. acquadiparma.com

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STREETS

AHEAD Faded pinstripes, quintessentially British checks and hues of blue bring a touch of sophistication to summer in the city

P h o t o g r a p h y : K E N K A M ARA S t y l i n g : J O S E P H C RO N E


Suit, £750, Chester Barrie, chesterbarrie.co.uk. Shirt, £160, Dunhill, dunhill.com. Tie, £80, Hardy Amies, hardyamies.com. Pocket square, £70, Canali, canali.com. Bag, £1,395, Louis Leeman, louisleeman.com. Shoes, £330, Hugo Boss, hugoboss.com


LEFT Suit, £2,210, Brunello Cucinelli, brunellocucinelli.com. Shirt, £125, Hardy Amies, as before. Vest, £125, John Varvatos, johnvarvatos.com. Tie, £69, Tiger of Sweden, tigerofsweden.com. Watch, £7,100, Panerai, panerai.com. Pocket square, £40, Caruso, carusomenswear.com

ABOVE Jacket, £800, and trousers, £800, Aquascutum, aquascutum.com. Shirt, £95, Chester Barrie, as before. Tie, £125, Dunhill, as before. Pocket square, £40, Caruso, as before. Watch, £3,495, Bremont, bremont.com


ABOVE Suit, £750, Chester Barrie, as before. Shirt, £175, Canali, as before. Tie, £95, Dunhill, as before. Watch, £640, Tissot, uk.tissotshop.com

RIGHT Suit, £800, Hugo Boss, as before. Shirt, £135, New & Lingwood, newandlingwood.com. Tie, £85, Paul Smith, paulsmith.co.uk. Pocket square, £60, Dunhill, as before. Cufflinks, £245, Salvatore Ferragamo, ferragamo.com. Glasses, £196, Burberry at David Clulow, davidclulow.com. Shoes, just seen, £950, John Lobb, johnlobb.com


LEFT Jacket, £395, trousers, £195, and pocket square, £70, Hardy Amies, as before. Shirt, £343, Just Cavalli, robertocavalli.com. Tie, £98, Shaun Gordon, shaungordon.co.uk. Watch, £1,600, TAG Heuer, tagheuer.co.uk. Umbrella, £295, New & Lingwood, as before. Socks, £8, Hugo Boss, as before. Shoes, £380, Crockett & Jones, crockettandjones.com

ABOVE Suit, £795, and shirt, £155, Richard James, richardjames.co.uk. Tie, £130, Ermenegildo Zegna, zegna.com. Pocket square, £55, Turnbull & Asser, turnbullandasser.co.uk. Glasses, £196, Burberry at David Clulow, as before. Shoes, £450, Church’s, church-footwear.com

CREDITS Photo tech: Nick Rees Fashion assistant: Cali Lew Hair and make-up: Monica Caneo Model: Gary Greenwood at Storm Model Management


An Eye for Detail Pioneers of early aviation and motor-racing eyewear, E.B. Meyrowitz, a custom spectacle maker, continues to remain practically peerless. Ken Kessler reports


FASHION

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alking through the Royal Arcade, it’s easy to leave a trail of nose-prints on glass. Covet Cleverley’s shoes, cross over to the Watch Club’s vintage timepieces, then linger at optical boutique E.B. Meyrowitz. If you must wear glasses, specs take on a significance that individuals blessed with perfect eyesight cannot grasp. For the rest of us, if contacts are not an option, E.B. Meyrowitz is without peer. Unlike objects with highly visible badges, eyeglasses free of shouty brand emblems are not identifiable. You could be wearing vintage, custom-made or off-the-peg. Yet the finest frames exhibit intrinsic style and quality. The proof? Every time I don logo-less Meyrowitz frames, compliments follow – a remarkable reaction to something that should otherwise seem prosaic. Meyrowitz, established in 1875, supplies some of the finest frames money can buy. Its practices include traditional craftsmanship, sublime design, innovative use of materials and a supreme understanding of which frames suit which faces. Even in this era of inescapable luxury branding – when ‘cool’ specs are the norm for everyone from hipsters to politicians – Meyrowitz frames stand apart. Is there any boutique more convivial than the Meyrowitz premises? The charming Sheel Davison-Lungley, Hiran Acharya-Matt and Vidu Acharya welcome clients with genuine, oldschool warmth. I gaze at the figures of jazz musicians that form part of the display, antiques amid serried rows of frames. I lust for pair after pair. Half the pleasure is watching how the ladies guide their clients to the correct frames, surprising them with choices they otherwise might not have made. Founder, Emil Bruno Meyrowitz, was born on 20 October 1852 in Greifenhagen, Prussia, launching his company in 1875 and opening stores in London, Paris and New York during the next 20 years. The company played a role in the early days of aviation, motor racing and mountaineering, impact still seen to good effect in eyeglasses custom-made for those pursuits.

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Tailoring glasses to suit each client requires attention to face shape, hair style and profile, as well as appropriateness to the wearer’s career or pursuits. The service may also include the eye test, for Meyrowitz also matches the frames to the wearer’s ocular requirements. During a consultation, the client chooses the shape, colour and material of the frames. Offerings include cotton-based acetates, naturally sourced horn, precious metals, jewels, exotic skins, tortoiseshell and even Pleistocene mammoth ivory crafted from a tusk preserved in permafrost for more than 10,000 years. Despite its traditions, Meyrowitz does not stand still; 3D printing offers clients a more interactive and immersive role on the quest for the perfect set of frames. For those without access to London, 2017 will see the first Meyrowitz ‘tour’, so clientele abroad can enjoy the same bespoke services. What sort of client employs Meyrowitz? During the company’s 140-year history, past customers would have driven Delages, smoked Balkan Sobranie cigarettes and piloted Rivas. Today, he or she would not have to be told about shoes from Stefano Bemer or the wines of Siepi. ‘Bespoke’, like ‘iconic’, has been misused to a point of meaninglessness. With Meyrowitz, the term regains its significance. So, should you prefer to wear something made expressly for you, what is more personal than that which improves both how you see, and how you look? 6 Royal Arcade, W1, ebmeyrowitz.co.uk

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Brute force It’s taken 50 years for Ford’s mighty Mustang to get here but it’s been worth the wait says Matthew Carter

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ames Bond’s Aston aside, no car has seared itself into popular culture as strongly as the Ford Mustang. What car did Lieutenant Frank Bullitt drive when policing San Francisco? A Highland Green ’68 Mustang 390 GT 2+2 Fastback. Eleanor, star of Gone in Sixty Seconds? A silver and black ’67 Mustang. And what type of car did Sally ride around in, according to Wilson Pickett? You’ve got it – a brand new Mustang, a 1965… Despite being in the global spotlight for more than 50 years, however, the Mustang – the car that inspired our own Ford Capri – has never officially been sold in the UK. But now that’s all changed. The 2016 ’Stang is overpowered, it oversteers and it’s over here. It’s finally in right-hand drive and it’s great. The latest version of the Mustang harks back to its glory days with menacing muscle-car looks and incorporates a number of iconic styling features. The ‘tri-bar’ tail-lights (LED these days), the ‘shark-bite’ front bumper and, of course, the long hood/short rump fastback styling are all redolent of the first of the breed.

Underneath the skin it’s a little more sophisticated than its predecessors, but only a little. There’s a proper multi-link back axle in place of the antiquated cart springs used up until now, but beneath the bonnet lies a pleasingly oldfashioned and decidedly non-PC 5.0-litre V8 that drinks like a fish and has a deep rumbling soundtrack. Overpowered and oversteers? Well it boasts 416 horsepower, more than a Porsche 911 Carrera and enough to give it a pretty rapid 4.8 seconds time for the 0-62 mph sprint and a top speed of 155 mph. But the performance is brutal rather than subtle, especially in manual form, and although the chassis has been retuned for Europe – our Mustangs feature Ford’s Performance Pack as standard, which includes stiffer springs, extra bracing for the suspension, a thicker anti-roll bar and upgraded brakes – it still needs handling with care. Too much right pedal at an inopportune moment and the rear end will do its best to overtake the front. And that’s despite the chassis-taming four selectable driving modes: snow/wet, normal, sport and track.


MOTORING

The latest version of the Mustang harks back to its glory days with menacing muscle-car looks

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The V8 manual has launch control, allowing you to take full advantage of all that performance


MOTORING

Ah, yes track. This is where the Mustang V8 can perform its party trick. The V8 manual has launch control, allowing you to take full advantage of all that performance when starting a hot lap. More interesting is an electronic system called Line Lock. This holds the car on the front brakes while you spin up the rears and engulf the thing in bellowing tyre smoke. Ford, coyly, suggests this allows you to ‘warm’ the tyres prior to some serious track work. Use it too often, though, and your tyre bill will quickly overtake your fuel bill. Out on the road it feels like the big, heavy car it is. In performance terms the Mustang is up against compact sports cars such as the Porsche Cayman or the Toyota GT86 and, in truth, both the German and the Japanese machines Ford Mustang are more agile and, Fastback 5.0 V8 GT size-wise, betterPrice: £34,995 suited to narrower Engines: Front-mounted, European roads. 4,951cc, V8 petrol But neither has Power: 416 hp anywhere near Performance: 155 mph max, the character of 0-62 mph in 4.8 secs the Mustang. Drive: Rear-wheel drive, six-speed In fact, in many manual transmission respects the Ford verges on the crude. The interior is heavy on vinyl and bare metal and the switches and dials lack a premium feel. Standard features include automatic headlights, rain-sensing wipers and an auto dimming rear view mirror. The front seats are power adjustable and there are power-folding door mirrors. These incorporate a neat touch – puddle lamps that project the Mustang badge on the ground when the door is opened at night. There’s also a central eight-inch screen for the infotainment system but, in standard form at least, it lacks sat nav. As a result most cars will be specified with the Custom Pack, which, for a bargain £1,750, adds a ‘Shaker Pro’ premium audio system, nav, climatecontrolled seats, fancy alloy wheels and extra chrome outside. It also includes rear parking

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sensors, which is a little belt and braces given that the Mustang already has a reversing camera as standard. Just so that no one can miss the fact that you’ve got a V8, it comes with a large ‘5.0’ badge on the forward flanks. And given that you are going to stand out from the crowd no matter which Mustang you’ve got, you might as well go for an in-yer-face colour: Competition Orange, Race Red or Triple Yellow for example. In truth, if you are looking for an everyday sports car with performance, handling and a little discreet style, the Mustang is not for you. But if you want something that really makes a statement, something that the cognoscenti will appreciate and something that will give you a thrill every time you fire it up, then there’s nothing to beat the flashy Ford. And that’s before we get to the really amazing bit. Despite the huge amount of metal on offer, the power and the formidable heritage you will be buying into, the Mustang costs less than £35,000 on the road. That makes it the performance bargain of the decade.

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INTERIORS

A symphony of COLOUR

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ante is said to have once described Ravenna’s spectacular UNESCO World Heritage mosaics – which date from the 4th century – as “a great symphony of colour”. Specialist interiors brand SICIS was founded in this same Italian province in 1987, however it has only just landed in the UK, opening a 5,500 sq ft showroom on Mayfair’s chic Dover Street. The Byzantine boutique showcases SICIS’s intricate, shimmering wall art alongside complementary Daliesque furnishing, but if an entire mosaic is too much to commit to, then the exquisite micro-mosaic watch and jewellery collections are bound to intrigue. 15A Dover Street, W1S, sicis.com

IMAGE credit: SICIS’ I’ Pix collection

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Interiors Image courtesy of Christian Lacroix Maison and Moooi Carpets

Curious carpets Christian Lacroix is a label synonymous with extravagant French design influences such as the 18th-century aristocratic subcultures: the Incroyables and Merveilleuses. This flamboyant aesthetic marries excellently with the eccentric Dutch interior brand Moooi, whose recent Salon del Mobile exhibit included an upended Chesterfield sofa as a chair; and is why the labels have come together once again to produce two new vivacious carpet designs – Mal Maison and Palais Royal. This is perfectly timed with the launch of the new Moooi store, opening this month at 23 Great Titchfield Street. Christian Lacroix Maison for Moooi Carpets, christian-lacroix.com; moooi.com

Interiors news WORDS: MARIANNE DICK

A new leaf The French way of life can sometimes seem enviable on dreary London days, so it’s fortunate that Paris-based brand Manuel Canovas has injected exactly this art de vivre into its new collection. This botanical print will brighten up the gloomiest corners – we recommend transforming your bathroom into a tropical jungle. Malfa wallpaper, £120 per roll, Manuel Canovas at Colefax and Fowler, manuelcanovas.com

FINISHING TOUCH

Cocktails and dreams We are heading steadily towards peak summer garden party season when ice-cold, thirstquenching cocktails are often preferable to the standard tipples. Even if you don’t have a natural bartender’s flair, these impeccably cool copper designs from Tom Dixon will ensure you channel Bond rather than Del Boy. The collection includes a futuristic shaker with tapered ends for a firmer grip and minimal Martini glasses, which could probably make even a miniature paper umbrella look chic. Plum Cocktail collection by Tom Dixon, tomdixon.net s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

SQUAT is an ongoing, roaming exhibition that combines art, architecture and design into one conceptual decorative living space. This month a display will launch in Mayfair in collaboration with Shalini Misra Ltd and will feature covetable items such as this chair by design duo David-Nicolas. Chaise Maurice armchair, POA, David-Nicolas, davidandnicolas.com; nilufarsquat.com

IMAGE credit: Mattia Lotti

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HEALTH & Beauty

Sun care heroes While the temptation is there to lie in the sun with a sense of reckless abandon once the summer arrives, looking after your skin and hair is crucial. Rituals has unveiled three new products aimed at shielding you from UV rays while encouraging a natural-looking tan. We love the Sun Protection Hairspray, which smells divine. £15, St Christopher’s Place, 9 Gees Court, W1U, rituals.com

Beauty news W O R D S : K a t y P a rk e r

image courtesy of WelleCo

Superwoman Summer is now just around the corner and inevitably thoughts turn to bikini bodies and getting into shape. Supermodel Elle Macpherson has the answer with her Four Week Body Reboot; a plan that combines the use of her Super Elixir Alkalising Greens and Nourishing Protein formulas with simple, easy-to-follow rules such as avoiding carbohydrates after 5pm. Not only will you feel and look healthier, but you will also sleep better and see benefits to your skin. Well, if it works for Elle... welleco.co.uk

Enough to make you blush The word ‘iconic’ is often attributed to beauty products – but the naughtily named Orgasm blush by Nars is arguably truly worthy of the label; initially launched in 1999, it created a sensation, spawning multiple copycat versions and quickly became the number one selling blusher in the US. Now, the brand is launching the blush in a limited-edition oversized custom compact – because you can never have too much of a good thing. £28, narscosmetics.co.uk s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

Summer loving Jo Malone London and artist and wallpaper designer Marthe Armitage are collaborating on a collection to capture the essence of dreamy summer days. The limited-edition range features a Green Tomato Leaf Home Candle and is packaged in boxes and bottles adorned with Armitage’s handprinted designs. We’re in love with the Nectarine Blossom & Honey Glass Decanter Bath Oil. 101 Regent Street, W1B jomalone.co.uk

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HEALTH & BEAUTY

S PA R E V I E W

In equal measure Strolling along Park Lane, Hannah Lemon soon finds herself inside London Marriott Hotel’s refurbished spa for a rejuvenation of body and soul

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full body massage can be a hit or miss affair. Whenever I stumble into a spa after a hectic day at work, I expect its warm embrace to soothe my mind of stress and knead out the knots in my back. In the past, I have been lampooned by hefty knuckles, while my limbs are pulled out at awkward angles, reminding me more of a visit to the doctor than a relaxing retreat. Similarly, I have had to lie through the sound of tweeting birds from a distant radio or monks humming from a Buddhist soundtrack, while a woman tentatively dribbles oil up and down my spine – is that really going to rid me of the tension in my left calf? What a relief it is, then, when I visit The Club at London Marriott Hotel Park Lane. I am welcomed with a gentle smile from an experienced therapist, who immediately asks how I would like the experience to be tailored. I’m shown through to the changing area, which shares a space with the gym, pool and steam room, all of which have undergone a stylish revamp by RPW Design. The pool, in particular, has me stunned into silence, with its moody, dark lighting, grand mosaic pillars, and relaxation beds placed along the side. But it is the Bespoke Body Ritual that I am here for. And once I have disrobed and looped my head through the hole of the massage bed, the soft lull of classical music (perfectly chosen and at just the right volume, too) has me nearly drifting off. I pick a lemongrass and geranium AromaWorks oil for my tailored massage, which is performed at the

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pressure I request. My muscles are unwound and stretched the same amount for nearly an hour. The masseuse isn’t afraid to hone in on the tricky spots and my shoulders (thanks to my years of slouching over a keyboard) are rewired and then expertly soothed. On my way out the therapist hands me an AromaWorks candle, which is chosen to match the oil I picked. This final touch makes it just about bearable to face the bustling streets near Marble Arch, safe in the knowledge that I can continue the aromatherapy experience as soon as I return home. 140 Park Lane, W1K, marriott.co.uk/park-lane

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Smile like you mean it As national smile month kicks off, it’s time to refine the health and appearance of your teeth. And, say the experts, dentistry has come further than you think

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n 16 May, the British Dental Health Foundation launched National Smile Month, an annual reminder of the importance of good oral hygiene. According to its research, a quarter of adults in the UK don’t brush their teeth twice a day and three in ten suffer from regular dental pain. We’re still among the most likely in Europe to visit a dentist for a check-up though (the UK was ranked second after the Netherlands), and half of all adults surveyed were said to attend every six months. These statistics may seem surprising given international stereotypes of the imperfect British smile, but at elleven, a multi-disciplinary clinic in Marylebone that has previously

been named Best Practice in the UK, business grew by 35 per cent year-on-year during the recession. Admittedly, elleven benefits from being one of the most attractive and friendly practices you’ll find – housed in a townhouse in Devonshire Place – which makes visits more appealing, and you might even bump into regulars including David Gandy in the waiting room, but its clinical director Dr Sameer Patel explains that there are broader factors at play. “People are becoming more health-conscious and mirrorconscious. For those who want to look good without a scalpel or a blade, the first way to do that is through dentistry.” While the most common concerns that patients raise with the team are discolouration and teeth alignment, Dr Patel insists that all treatment courses begin with a hygiene and


HEALTH & BEAUTY

periodontal consultation, to ensure the health of the teeth and gums. “When you’re building a pyramid, the base layer is the most important. Addressing long-term neglect before you build on the second layer of function and aesthetics is critical.”

Silent symptoms At elleven the periodontal team includes Dr Petros Moschouris, an international specialist in treating gingivitis (an inflammation of the gums that can cause bleeding) and periodontitis (a progressive breakdown in the structure of the gum and bone supporting the teeth). The conditions can often have minimal symptoms, leading to pain and tooth loss at an advanced stage. What’s more, any misalignment of the teeth is not a superficial issue – an incline or overlap that impedes brushing can cause harmful bacteria to flourish below the gum-line. Treatment can range from deep-cleaning to surgery to graft healthy gums, and Dr Moschouris is armed with diagrams, pragmatic advice and a background in research into bone regeneration to keep teeth secure.

The trends Gone is the millennial public fascination with large, gleaming veneers. “Aesthetics should take a facially driven approach,” says Dr Patel. “The organic English smile is still something to be desired: people don’t want a generic, fake-looking smile.” The solution often involves orthodontics. “The general ethos of the British Academy of Cosmetic Dentistry is minimally invasive treatment. If the same result can be done by moving your own teeth into place, that’s what we do.”

Braces The good news is that brace-based technology has advanced ten-fold since your school days. Opt for the SureSmile method developed by NASA and you’ll see your treatment time reduced by around 40 per cent. The system uses both 3D images and robots to precisely bend the wires into shape. These are then adjusted once every four to six weeks and straighter teeth should follow between nine to 14 months later. If you want your braces to go unnoticed, white ceramic wires can be used. Alternatively, lingual braces, known as ‘invisible’ braces, can be applied behind the teeth.

Veneers in one day When teeth are misshapen or have large gaps, or a straighter, whiter smile is needed very quickly, a thin but strong overlay can be applied to the tooth surface. The application of veneers used to be a more lengthy process, but in response to the demands of international clients in town

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A quarter of adults in the UK don’t brush their teeth twice a day for short periods, elleven has developed the One Day Smile Makeover. For those concerned about the process of filing the tooth surface, so-called prep-less veneers are typically used to provide the desired effect without drilling into the tooth enamel. It’s not a process that’s suitable for all, but it does open the door to the possibility of a reversible result.

Whitening By far the most common cosmetic procedure is the removal of stains and whitening of the teeth. When it comes to visibly lightening the tooth surface, the advice is straightforward. “If you’re seriously considering whitening, please do see a professional – the whitening process has been around for many years and is safe in the right hands,” says Dr Patel. The latest treatment incorporates nano-hydroxyapatite to help remineralise the tooth enamel and give a smooth finish.

Is it for you? While innovation is increasing the range of improvements that can be made to our teeth, according to the British Dental Health Foundation’s findings one in seven of us suffers from extreme dental anxiety. For this reason, it is often advisable to visit a practice where various specialists work together as part of one treatment programme. The advice from Dr Patel is to be proactive and optimistic with our oral health. “There are small changes we can make with most smiles to enhance what people have. I’m enjoying the fact that we are in an era of minimally invasive dentistry.” Prices on consultation, elleven, 11 Devonshire Place, W1G, ellevendental.com

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Travel tips With the summer holiday season fast approaching, Dr Lisa Anderson, a private GP at The Wellington Hospital, provides us with some tips for staying healthy before and during your trip

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Health Promotion

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e all worry about forgetting to pack something important before going on holiday, but we don’t always think about our health when we’re getting ready to go away. As well as ensuring you have adequate holiday insurance for your destination, here are some other simple things to think about before your flight:

Vaccinations

Sunscreen should always be reapplied after swimming even if the sunscreen is ‘waterproof’. PRIVATE GP Children’s skin is much more delicate and SERVICES AT more easily damaged by the sun, so a high THE WELLINGTON factor sunscreen should be used as well as protective clothing and a hat. HOSPITAL Our private GP service provides: Blood tests • Immunisations • Travel vaccinations • General health checks including ECGs, urine tests, weight control, cholesterol and blood pressure checks • Wound care • Well women services, including family planning, cervical smears and breast checks

Many countries do not require travel vaccinations other than those needed for daily life in the UK (tetanus, polio and diphtheria), but others do require vaccinations and these should be thought about at least three months before you go. The NHS has an excellent website fitfortravel.nhs.uk where you can search for immunisation requirements and malaria recommendations by country. Some of the vaccines are free through your NHS GP and others will incur a charge. Travel vaccines are available at The Wellington Hospital.

Clean water Many parts of the world do not have clean water and so you may need to buy bottled water not only to drink but to use for brushing your teeth. If you have a baby less than 12 months of age who needs formula milk, remember that you will need to be careful about the sodium content of mineral water you buy. This information can be found on the contents label. The recommended daily amounts of sodium are: •Up to 12 months: less than 1g of salt a day (less than 0.4g sodium) •1 to 3 years: 2g of salt a day (0.8g sodium)

Sun safety Protecting skin from the sun is vital to avoid sunburn and heat exhaustion. Use a sunscreen with a minimum sun protection factor (SPF) of 15 that protects against UVA and UVB rays.

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Protective clothing

Make sure to pack appropriate clothing for the activities you are doing or the place you are visiting. Long sleeves, long trousers and long socks can protect you from insect bites and weather extremes. Remember sunglasses to protect your eyes and a hat to protect your scalp from the sun.

Wasp and bee stings Wasp and bee stings can cause allergic reactions, which can range from mild skin irritation to more severe symptoms. If you know you are allergic to either wasps or bees, make sure you have your medication with you at all times.

Insect bites Mosquito bites can cause swelling, blistering and intense itching; if you know there are mosquitoes where you are then use a good insect repellent lotion with a high DEET content before going out in the evening. Other repellents include tea tree oil and citronella. Beware of sand flies, which can also cause nasty bites.

Footcare Remember that however comfortable flip flops are, do not be tempted to wear them all the time as they do not give any support to your feet and can lead to inflammation of the heel if worn for too long. The Wellington Hospital have a team of experienced private GPs available daily. If you would like to make an appointment, you can call the Enquiry Helpline team on 020 7483 5004

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Regulars FOOD & DRINK IMAGE COURTESY OF SAKE NO HANA

For goodness sake

Food & drink news

Japanese cherry blossom is in bloom for just three weeks and to celebrate its transient beauty, it’s tradition to eat sushi and drink sake beneath the boughs. The bar at Sake no Hana has erected a sakura cherry blossom garden for this purpose. Past intertwining branches, falling petals and a grass floor, enjoy a limited-edition seven-course menu, featuring a Kaori Arpège cocktail, a bento box of sushi, hamachi, akamai and salmon sashimi and flora-inspired desserts. Sakura at Sake no Hana, 23 St James’s Street, SW1A, sakenohana.com

Bubbles and brews If your favourite tipple is Tetley or PG Tips, we know just the place for you. sketch has created a tea-strained Champagne for a sumptuous afternoon tea. The elegant drink is poured through leaves to create subtle aromas that complement the extensive list of brews. Choose from Earl Grey and vanilla to wash down an indulgent assortment of finger sandwiches and pastries. sketch RICH tea, £68, 9 Conduit Street, W1S sketch.london

Rosé season Boasting the largest rosé list of any restaurant in the UK, Franco’s has launched its annual collection of 70 wines in celebration of 70 years on Jermyn Street. Fine vintages from eight different countries have been selected, including 28 wines from every region of Italy. Try a selection from Château Miraval – an ancient property in Provence owned and managed by Mr and Mrs Brad Pitt. francoslondon.com

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A Walker to remember It’s Father’s Day once again and if you are reluctant to buy more pieces of golf equipment or another nondescript polo jumper, the rare Johnnie Walker Blue Label limitededition gift box might be the answer. Purchase the 20cl whisky at M Victoria Street and have it engraved in-store with a message for a personal touch. £58, available from The Whisky Shop, Selfridges & Co and whiskyexchange.com

Making music Once frequented by the likes of The Rolling Stones, Fleetwood Mac, Jimi Hendrix and David Bowie, the Marquee Club has been reincarnated as 100 Wardour St. Keeping creativity and eccentricity at its core, the lounge, restaurant and club provide a relaxed atmosphere to sample Mediterranean morsels against a backdrop of eclectic live performances from new and established acts. Healthier options from the menu include cauliflower tabbouleh, golden raisins and bee pollen or opt for a heartier dish of crispy pork belly, salsa verde and grilled endive. 100wardourst.com

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FOOD & DRINK

REVIEW

Taste of the tropics The latest venture from restaurateur Kurt Zdesar, Black Roe Poke Bar & Grill is bringing the exotic flavours of Hawaii to the streets of London. Katy Parker reports

photography: gary esprit

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ust when you think you’ve tried it all, that London’s restaurant scene couldn’t possibly conjure anything else from its proverbial hat, it proves once again that it has more up its sleeve. This month, we celebrate the opening of Black Roe Poke Bar & Grill in Mayfair – a restaurant serving Pacific Rim cuisine and featuring the city’s first bar dedicated to Hawaiian delicacy poke. Pronounced ‘po-kay’, the dish comprises marinated raw fish sitting atop a bed of short-grain rice; it is traditionally made with ahi tuna, but Black Roe offers multiple interpretations of the classic, including scallop, sea bass and beef tataki. The brainchild of Kurt Zdesar – the restaurateur behind Soho’s Chotto Matte – the restaurant’s pièce de résistance is

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the poke bar that sits at the front of the space, manned by an expert chef. The rest of the interiors echo the style of Zdesar’s other venture, with stylish lighting features and artwork adorning the dark, moody walls. My guest and I open our meal with a trio of poke – sampling the classic ahi tuna, salmon and sea bass. Each is distinctive in taste yet equally tantalising; packed full of exotic fresh flavours, the dishes transport you right to the blissful shores of Hawaii. Up next is the asparagus tempura with coriander salsa, truffle aioli, and the monkfish and tiger prawns with citrus salsa – both are generously sized (all dishes are meant for sharing) and delicately seasoned, allowing for the quality ingredients to speak for themselves. The whole lobster mac ‘n’ cheese is a delight from start to finish; presented in a lobster shell, I definitely devour more than my fair share, while the Cajun-style blackened seabass is perhaps the most disappointing of the group; it lacks any sort of wow factor. We wash down our dishes with a bottle of the Huia Sauvignon Blanc, as recommended by our sommelier, which proves the perfect match to the seafood feast. I can’t say no to dessert, and I especially can’t say no to doughnuts, so I opt for these accompanied by a chocolate sauce. These little balls of indulgence will have me returning to Black Roe, alongside the restaurant’s buzzy, convivial atmosphere. It’s a slice of Hawaiian sun in the heart of Mayfair. 4 Mill Street, W1S, blackroe.com

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hy doesn’t Germany feature more prominently on our holiday wish list? Is it a general lack of awareness of its cultural and natural wonders, maybe a lack of PR, or as some suggest, a simple lack of vogue for anything German? Today, Germany is actually the UK’s fifth most popular travel destination after Spain, France, the US and Italy, and yet we seem to hear so little about its treasures. Don’t mention the war, I ruminate (in an ironic Faulty Towers fashion) but my first surprise is that they mention the war all the time in Weimar. Indeed locals are exceedingly vocal about the abominations that occurred in the area under the Nazi regime during World War II and are keen to recognise this period of history as much as its golden years. Buchenwald (meaning beech forest) was a Nazi concentration camp established in July 1937, just outside Weimar, as the largest camp in Germany; it is now a memorial that offers visitors guided tours. Its visceral horrors are best summarised by moving drawings and extracts from Edward R. Murrow’s report. Weimar’s history and residents have many layers. There’s much to be proud of and aesthetes of music, art and culture have long since enjoyed sojourns here. The spirits of its musicians Johann Sebastian Bach and Johann Strauss, writers Johann Wolfgang von Goethe and Friedrich von Schiller, philosopher Friedrich Nietzsche, artist Paul Klee and architect Walter Gropius live on – multiple structures related to Weimar Classicism located in and around the city have been labelled as UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Alongside classical buildings stands Bauhaus, a modern structure that’s fit for purpose, minimalist and famous the world over. Indeed, the architecture is impressive. Cobbled streets and alleyways host a colourful collection of palaces, museums and cosy inns. It’s picture perfect and Weimar is putting her best foot forward today as a city recognising its place in German history, as well as its magnificent cultural heritage.

[ city break]

Weimar

Rich in culture, with UNESCO World Heritage Sites and fine dining, Sarah Siese looks towards Germany’s best-kept secret for a weekend break

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Belvedere Palace ©Weimar GmbH; Goethe and Schiller memorial ©Thüringer Tourismus GmbH; Hotel Elephant, Weimar; Belvedere Palace ©German National Tourist Board; Weimar Russian Orthodox Church ©German National Tourist Board; Herderplatz square ©Weimar GmbH; Rococo Hall in Weimar ©Weimar GmbH (Maik Schuck)


Travel

Where to stay An historic base for the city is the Hotel Elephant. Opened in 1696 it became a favourite with Goethe, Schiller and in particular (and somewhat unpalatably) Hitler who liked to pose to the crowd on the balcony facing the square. It was torn down in 1927, rebuilt in 1938 and since 1990 has housed an array of artefacts. As part of the Luxury Collection, the residence provides 99 exquisite rooms and suites, with unique art, design and furniture. hotelelephantweimar.com

SUITCASE E S S E N T I A L S

#1 Jacket, £350, Last of England, lastofengland.co.uk

Where to eat Gourmet restaurant Anna Amalia is worth a visit for refined Italian cuisine in a formal setting. For a more relaxed local affair, head to Gasthaus Zum weissen Schwan, one of the oldest taverns in Europe and one

Weimar’s history and residents have many layers of Goethe’s favorites. Order the Thuringian bratwurst with sauerkraut and mashed potatoes for a truly traditional experience. restaurant-anna-amalia.com; weisserschwan.de

Mayfair recommends Despite its modest size, Weimar’s cosmopolitan atmosphere seeps through its cobbled alleyways, stately parks and national landmarks, including the National Theatre and Herzogin Anna Amalia Library. In 1691 the Duke of Saxe-Weimar made his books accessible, marking the start of Germany’s most significant public research library. The famous Rococo Hall attracts visitors from all over the world looking to enjoy a book once thumbed over by Goethe or Schiller. nationaltheater-weimar.de; klassik-stiftung.de

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#2 Sunglasses, £236, Tom Ford, ocoglasses.co.uk #3 Bergamot Soleil, £90, Atelier Cologne, ateliercologne.com

#4 T-shirt, £275, Pringle of Scotland, pringlescotland.com

#5 Suitcase, £5,200, Berluti, berluti.com

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All at sea Set on the bank of the River Thames, Katy Parker uncovers the nautical delights of Mondrian London

A

s a landmark building with a backstory, it seems only right that I give you a bit of history about Mondrian London. It started life as Sea Containers House, a building originally conceived as a hotel but ultimately utilised as an office space thanks to financial woes in the 1970s. Fast forward to 2014, when the building was resurrected in its originally intended guise, presenting us with the hotel that now sits as a proud beacon of luxury on the banks of the River Thames. Designed by Tom Dixon, Mondrian London at Sea Containers comprises two bars, one restaurant, a spa and

a Curzon cinema. Unsurprisingly, given the hotel’s location, the interiors hark back to the golden age of transatlantic travel, with metallic and brass features playing a central part throughout. Sweeping back the curtains and casting my eye over the expansive view that spans the stretch of the river around St Paul’s Cathedral, I am absorbed by one of those ‘I love London’ moments. My riverside suite features bespoke furniture by Dixon, carefully arranged with stylish effect, and the space really does evoke the sense of being in a cabin aboard a luxury cruise liner. But before I get too comfy, it’s time to hit the spa. After a brief stint in the gym, the relaxation room is blissfully tranquil and designed with its suspended brass feature acting as a strong focal point. Loathe as I am to leave, supper awaits, and so my guest and I return to the room to get ready. The hotel’s restaurant, Sea Containers, has a ‘larger than life’ feel to it with its mustard-yellow banquets, impressive central bar and expansive views over the water. We are seated next to the window, where we each enjoy an apéritif of Sea Co spritz with cocchi rosa, peach brandy and prosecco and an appetiser of Padrón peppers. The menu is wide-ranging, offering raw dishes and mains that draw on inspiration from American and Italian cuisine. With our appetites suitably whetted, we enjoy a burrata and roasted squash flatbread with rocket and pumpkin seeds, followed by clay oven-roasted cod with crushed Jersey Royal potatoes and tomato fondue. Well-thought-out and wellexecuted, the food is tasty and – coupled with the restaurant’s buzzy atmosphere – ensures a memorable evening and a real sense of occasion, whatever the occasion might be. Dessert comes in the shape of a classic – tiramisu – and is as deliciously indulgent as the Italian favourite should be, packing a seriously boozy punch. For the night owls, a visit to the Rumpus Room bar post dinner is a must. Set on the rooftop, the chic cocktail bar has been a favourite among London’s party-going elite since


TRAVEL

the hotel opened two years ago. Alternatively, drop into Dandelyan, which was crowned Best New International Cocktail Bar at the 2015 Spirited Awards and offers inventive concoctions stirred up by celebrated mixologist Ryan Chetiyawardana. The Puffed Grains and Chocolate gets my vote with its combination of scotch whisky, toasted grain soda, chocolate and pink peppercorn. Awaking to the sun shining over the Thames is a spoiling treat and one that I relish over a cup of coffee and the morning papers. At breakfast we are indulged further with a spread of blueberry pancakes with lemon butter and maple syrup, and smashed avocado on charred toast. Breakfast has long been my most cherished meal of the day and the offerings here do not disappoint. Add in a Lean Green juice with cucumber, celery, kale, spinach and ginger – arguably too virtuous-sounding to taste good, but it manages it, believe me – and after your dreamy night’s sleep you’ll be boasting a glow to rival Gwyneth’s and will be leaving Mondrian London with a spring in your step.

photography: niall clutton

Awaking to the sun shining over the Thames is a spoiling treat and one that I relish over a cup of coffee

Mondrian London, 20 Upper Ground, SE1 morganshotelgroup.com

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Roman holiday Once a base for Modernist painters of the early 20th century, you are more likely to find Hollywood’s stars and well-to-do diplomats at the Hotel de Russie these days. Amy Welch discovers its tranquil sanctuary of five-star services and secret gardens in the heart of Italy’s capital

‘Paradise on earth,’ is how famed writer, artist and film director Jean Cocteau once described the Hotel de Russie. The French luminary first stayed at the central Rome hotel in 1917 with friend Pablo Picasso in tow – the two were preparing to stage the first Cubist ballet with the Ballets Russes. Although the hotel has since been given a sweeping Rocco Forte transformation complete with all the trappings of contemporary luxury, the 18th-century terraced gardens maintain a touch of this romantic history – a place where Picasso and Cocteau supposedly picked fresh oranges from their windows each morning.

On entering the hotel, a mountainous floral arrangement on a central marble table instantly steals my gaze. “The flora changes daily,” says a soft Italian voice, one of the many attentive concierges on hand to welcome you. Indeed, on passing the marbled reception a few hours later a new and even grander assortment of powder pink arum lilies and vibrant bromeliads has replaced the medley of violets and lavender. From the well-considered vegetation to the state-of-the-art rooms and suites upstairs, full of soft neutral tones and warm lighting, every inch of the hotel oozes elegance. The revving of mopeds and furore of the city streets and piazzas below becomes curiously non-existent within the historic walls of Hotel de Russie. A private terrace in the afternoon sun, or a direct lift down to the ground-floor spa signals that you have entered a peaceful enclave of relaxation and quiet where one need never to glance at a wristwatch. Tearing myself away from the residence proves a challenge, but once I do, most of Rome’s cultural highlights are just a stone’s throw away. A morning stroll to the nearby Spanish Steps, situated on the Via del Babuino, is a feast for any fashion follower. And from Miu Miu to Hermès, the cobbled roads spurring out from the Piazza del Popolo are a


TRAVEL

ALL HOTEL IMAGES COURTESY OF HOTEL DE RUSSIE

wonder to behold. Once you’re in the beating heart of the city, the bustling magnificence of the Trevi Fountain is also only a short meander away. On returning to the hotel, a peaceful calm washes over me once more. Overlooking the sun-drenched terracotta roofs of the city from a private balcony, I admire the archetypal Roman elegance and even in the hotel the wonder of Roman architecture takes centre stage. Come the evening, the Stravinskij Bar is the social hub of the hotel and the city quarter beyond, and the landscaped terrace and Le Jardin restaurant never fail to draw in a wealth of famous faces for a traditional aperitivo. With a gentle hum across the terrace, cocktail hour at the renowned bar is a relaxed but refined affair where refreshments are nothing if not inventive. Straying from the menu of classic tipples is welcomed as the master bar staff enthusiastically oblige in the challenge of making a unique cocktail to your personal tastes – the order of a simple gin and tonic would certainly put their talents to waste. Post aperitif, a stroll through the hotel’s signature Secret Garden sets the tone for a relaxed and romantic evening. The garden is a secluded Mediterranean escape, with palm trees, yews and white climbing roses cascading through the tranquil space. Much like the city of Rome itself, Hotel de Russie presents an enduring love letter to the bygone era of an ancient empire, which is no doubt why the Cocteaus and Picassos of this world continue to stay. Hotel de Russie, roccofortehotels.com

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Home from home From the brand that offers discerning travellers some of the wildest and most extravagant experiences on Earth comes the Mantis Owners Collection: around 30 extraordinary guest houses, from Scotland to South Africa. Each villa is introduced by its owner and includes in-house services such as daily housekeeping, a private chef, butler and house manager. Conservationist Karl Ammann is the owner of Residence on the Rocks (pictured) – the only privately owned property at Banyan Tree in the Seychelles. mantisownerscollection.com Residence on the Rocks Image courtesy of Mantis Owners Collection

Travel news WORDS: MARIANNE DICK

Letters of note A sunhat is a holiday essential; however it’s often difficult to stand out on the sands when you’re surrounded by a sea of straw. Contemporary New York brand Eugenia Kim has cleverly provided a solution with its S/S16 decorated brims: featuring embroidered suede phrases such as ‘daydreamer’ and ‘wish you were here’. We particularly love this preppy Brigitte boater hat, which displays a line from the poem Sacred Emily by Gertrude Stein – it’s the ideal accessory for sun-bathing bookworms. £260, net-a-porter.com

Welcome to Miami

IMAGE credit: Nik Koenig

The Faena district in Miami is a glitzy fantasy land straight from a 1950s Hollywood film, where every guest’s whim is catered for. The main attraction – the Faena Hotel – was once the legendary former Saxony hotel where the likes of Marilyn Monroe and Frank Sinatra performed, wined and dined. The elaborate interior has been designed by the splendidly cinematic duo Baz Luhrmann and Catherine Martin, with work on display by artists such as Damien Hirst and Jeff Koons. faena.com

Image credit: Jerome Galland

New look It is well-known that when it comes to fashion, Parisians take things very seriously. The Dior Institut at the Hôtel Plaza Athénée – on the Avenue Montaigne where Christian Dior opened his flagship in 1947 – has recently been given a makeover, showing off a bright new interior, including a mirror ceiling with sparkling crystal in the couples’ suite. The sophisticated design combines tones of champagne and low-relief rose sculptures (one of the house’s most recognisable symbols), providing the perfect romantic setting in the city of love. dorchestercollection.com


Regulars

Remembering

MAYFAIR

The Royal Academy of Arts ©Fraser Marr

The memoirs of Harriette Wilson Words: Penelope Sacorafou

T

he Duke of Wellington, the Marquess of Worcester, the Duke of Argyll, Lord Melbourne’s son, the Honorable Frederick Lamb – this may sound like a directory of people who lived in Mayfair, but it is in fact a snippet of a long list of men who Harriette Wilson fostered a romantic relationship with in the late 18th century and then tormented with a kiss-and-tell style memoir. She published Harriette Wilson’s Memoirs Written by Herself in 1825, scandalising and thrilling the London upper classes in equal measure. Wilson was one of 15 children of Swiss clockmaker and Mayfair shopkeeper John James Dubouchet. Neither born into wealth nor significant social standing, she became the mistress of the Earl of Craven at the age of 15. According to her writing, she considered the Earl a bore and so moved onwards and upwards, canoodling with the most desired men at the time, including four future British Prime Ministers, the Prince of Wales and the Lord Chancellor. These gents do not appear in her biography due to that fact that Wilson rather manipulatively offered her targets an opportunity to buy their way out of her coming instalments. Often referred to as demi-reps (representatives of the demi-monde) or most descriptively as ‘The Fashionable Impures’, courtesans shared the same privileged world of theatre, opera masquerade balls and racing carriages as high society. As a young lady and a successful courtesan, Wilson

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enjoyed wealth and fame and her memoirs are filled with detailed accounts of conversations with the many society figures she had known at these private parties, including a tête-à-tête with Lord Byron at Burlington House (now the Royal Academy of Arts). When Wilson neared old age, her lover, then the Duke of Bedford, denied her the pension he had once promised to her. As her beauty diminished, she slowly slid into financial disarray and so, as a way out of dire straits, Wilson resorted to blackmailing the establishment with information she had gained over pillow talk. We can only imagine how many paid up, and those who didn’t contributed to her spicy raconteur of Mayfair’s love scene. Although her blackmailing tactics and her unreliability should not be applauded, we can congratulate Wilson on her intelligent wit and talented pen, which, as a result, has provided many with an entertaining insight into the dalliances of past dukes and a flavour of the area’s past. The General Assembly Room ©royal academy

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PROPERTY

Mayfair estate agents Knightsbridge 168 Brompton Road SW3 1HW 020 7717 5463 (lettings) Beauchamp Estates 24 Curzon Street, W1J 7TF 020 7499 7722 (beauchamp.com)

Mayfair 32 Grosvenor Square W1K 2HJ 020 7717 5465 (sales) 020 7717 5467 (lettings)

Paddington & Bayswater carter jonas

London, Mayfair & St James’s 127 Mount Street W1K 3NT 020 7493 0676

London, Hyde Park & Bayswater 44 Connaught Street W2 2AA 020 7402 1552 (sales) 020 7371 3377 (lettings)

Savills

W1J 5AX 020 3284 1888 (john-taylor.com)

36 North Audley Street, W1K 6ZJ 020 7578 5100 (sales & lettings)

4C Praed Street W2 1JX 020 7717 5473 (sales) 020 7717 5343 (lettings)

50 Belgrave Road SW1V 1RQ 020 7834 4771 (sales) (hamptons-int.com)

Knightsbridge

82 Brompton Road SW3 1ER 020 7225 6506

Marylebone & Fitzrovia

Sloane Street

Knight Frank

139 Sloane Street, SW1X 9AY 020 7730 0822 (savills.co.uk)

Mayfair

120a Mount Street W1K 3NN 020 7499 1012 (sales & lettings) (knightfrank.co.uk)

Hyde Park

Harrods Estates

Mayfair & St James’s

22 Devonshire Street, W1G 6PF 020 3527 0400

Pimlico & Westminster

London, Marylebone & Regent’s Park 37 New Cavendish Street W1G 9TL 020 7486 8866 (carterjonas.co.uk)

John taylor 48 Berkeley Square

1 Craven Terrace W2 3QD 020 7871 5060 (sales) 020 7871 5070 (lettings)

Marylebone

Sotheby’s international realty

London Head Office

Berkeley Square House, W1J 6BD 020 7495 9580 (sothebysrealty.co.uk)

55 Baker Street W1U 8EW 020 3435 6440 (sales)

Mayfair ChestertonS

Mayfair

47 South Audley Street W1K 2QA 020 7629 4513 (sales) 020 7288 8301 (lettings)

61 Park Lane W1K 1QF 020 7409 9001 (harrodsestates.com)

10 Gillingham Street SW1V 1HJ 020 3411 8386 (sales) (chestertons.com)

Chelsea

134 Fulham Road, SW10 9PY 020 7717 5433 (lettings)

London Head Office Pastor Real Estate Ltd 48 Curzon Street W1J 7UL 020 3195 9595 (pastor-realestate.com)

Westminster & Pimlico

Hamptons International

Strutt & Parker

JACKSON STOPS & STAFF 17c Curzon Street W1J 5HU 020 7664 6644 (jackson-stops.co.uk)

Rokstone 5 Dorset Street W1U 6QJ 020 7580 2030 (rokstone.com)

13 Hill Street, W1J 5LQ 020 7629 7282

Knightsbridge 66 Sloane Street, SW1X 9SH 020 7235 9959 (struttandparker.com)

Wetherell 102 Mount Street, W1K 2TH 020 7493 6935 (wetherell.co.uk)

For estate agent listings please contact Sophie Roberts at s.roberts@runwildgroup.co.uk

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showcasing the

finest HOMES & PROPERTY from the best estate agents

Prime lettings Why the central London rental market is heating up

Rising interest Investors flock to the capital to purchase Mayfair mansions

Image courtesy of SOTHEBY’S INTERNATIONAL REALTY


MM June Curzon PH


Curzon Street, Mayfair W1J A unique duplex penthouse with extraordinary panoramic views An outstanding penthouse with wrap around terracing in excess of 1,300 sq ft, with breathtaking views over London and two secure parking spaces. Master bedroom suite, 2 guest bedroom suites, bedroom 4/gym, open plan reception/kitchen/dining room, 24 hour concierge, lift, 2 parking spaces. EPC: G. Approximately 322 sq m (3,469 sq ft).   Leasehold: approximately 987 years remaining

Guide price: £15,500,000

KnightFrank.co.uk/mayfair mayfair@knightfrank.com 020 8166 7484 Beauchamp.com sales@beauchamp.com 020 7499 7722

@KnightFrank KnightFrank.co.uk

KnightFrank.co.uk/WER090099

10/05/2016 15:46:22


Upper Brook Street, Mayfair W1K Two bedroom lateral apartment overlooking Grosvenor Square Situated in a beautiful period building on the corner of prestigious Grosvenor Square, this two bedroom apartment benefits from great entertaining space, lift access and views over the square. Master bedroom suite, bedroom 2, reception/dining room, kitchen, guest WC. EPC: D. Approximately 103 sq m (1,104 sq ft).   Leasehold: approximately 98 years remaining

Guide price: £3,995,000

KnightFrank.co.uk/mayfair mayfair@knightfrank.com 020 8166 7484  

@KnightFrank KnightFrank.co.uk

KnightFrank.co.uk/WER060025

MM June 14 bank chambers

10/05/2016 13:17:59

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WHAT'S YOUR NEXT MOVE? If you are considering selling a property this year, now is the time to speak to an expert. We pride ourselves on exceptional service and unrivalled market knowledge, with a global network of 417 offices across 58 countries that can showcase your property to the widest possible audience.   Call us today on +44 20 8166 7484 to arrange your free market appraisal.     Guide price: £1,050,000

Jermyn Street, St James's SW1 A fabulous one bedroom apartment located within a highly sought after building, benefiting from great ceiling heights, lift access and day porter. Bedroom, bathroom, reception room, kitchen, lift access, porter. EPC: E. Approximately 46 sq m (499 sq ft). mayfair@knightfrank.com Office: 020 8166 7484

Upper Brook Street, Mayfair W1K Two bedroom lateral apartment overlooking Grosvenor Square Situated in a beautiful period building on the corner of prestigious Grosvenor Square, this two bedroom apartment benefits from great entertaining space, lift access and views over the square. Master bedroom suite, bedroom 2, reception/dining room, kitchen, guest WC. EPC: D. Approximately 103 sq m (1,104 sq ft).   Leasehold: years remaining Guide approximately 98 price: £3,175,000

 

@KnightFrank KnightFrank.co.uk

KnightFrank.co.uk/mayfair mayfair@knightfrank.com 020 8166 7484  

Hertford Street, Mayfair W1J A well proportioned, very bright two bedroom apartment located on the second floor within a beautiful Grade II listed building. Master bedroom suite, second bedroom suite, reception/dining room, kitchen, hall. Approximately 123 sq m (1,320 sq ft). Guide price: £3,995,000 mayfair@knightfrank.com KnightFrank.co.uk/WER060025 Office: 020 8166 7484

MM June 14 bank chambers

@KnightFrank KnightFrank.co.uk

10/05/2016 13:17:59


Connaught Place, Hyde Park W2 A magnificent five bedroom apartment with direct views over Hyde Park Decorated to an excellent standard, this luxurious lateral apartment is the height of elegance and sophistication. Period features such as intricate mouldings are juxtaposed with a stylish, contemporary interior and the generous accommodation comprises five double bedrooms and a wealth of entertaining space. 5 bedrooms, 6 bathrooms, drawing room, dining room, sitting room, kitchen/breakfast room, study, 2 dressing rooms, guest cloakroom, direct lift access, spectacular views over Hyde Park. Approximately 504 sq m (5,433 sq ft).   Leasehold: approximately 124 years remaining

Guide price: £15,000,000

KnightFrank.co.uk/hydepark hydepark@knightfrank.com 020 3544 6140  

@KnightFrank KnightFrank.co.uk

KnightFrank.co.uk/HPE120091

Mayfair Mag- 3, 12 Connaught Place- June 2016

16/05/2016 13:49:05

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5

LETTING HOMES LIKE YOURS ALL YEAR ROUND

We pride ourselves on exceptional service and unrivalled market knowledge, with a global network of 417 offices across 58 countries that can showcase your property to the widest possible audience. To arrange a free market appraisal, call +44 20 8166 7799 or visit KnightFrank.co.uk/mayfair     potential tenants should be advised that as well as rent, an  All administration fee of £276 and referencing fees of £48 per

Guide price: £625 per week

Whetstone Park, Holborn WC2

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A spacious one bedroom apartment benefiting from floor to ceiling windows and wooden flooring. Bedroom, bathroom, reception room and dining area, open plan kitchen, lift. EPC: B. Approximately 52 sq m (557 sq ft). Available furnished mayfairlettings@knightfrank.com Office: 020 8166 7799

person will apply when renting a property. Please ask us for more information about other fees that may apply or visit KnightFrank.co.uk/tenantcharges

@KnightFrank KnightFrank.co.uk

Guide price: £1,250 per week

Piccadilly, Mayfair W1J A modern apartment with fantastic views over Green Park. 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, reception room and dining area, kitchen, balcony, lift. EPC: C. Approximately 104 sq m (1,121 sq ft). Available furnished mayfairlettings@knightfrank.com Office: 020 8166 7799

Mayfair Magazine - May - Lettings 4

10/05/2016 12:01:49


LETTING HOMES LIKE YOURS ALL YEAR ROUND To arrange a free market appraisal of your property please contact us: KnightFrank.co.uk/lettings marylebonelettings@knightfrank.com 020 3641 5853 KnightFrank.co.uk/lettings hydeparklettings@knightfrank.com 020 3641 7941  

Guide price: Long Let £1,900 pw - Short Let £3,000 pw

Montagu Square, Marylebone W1

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A beautifully finished three bedroom duplex apartment of Georgian proportions, located on one of Marylebone's finest garden squares. 3 bedrooms, 3 bathrooms (2 en suite), reception room, dining room, kitchen, guest cloakroom, entrance hall, integral garage. EPC: C. Approximately 225 sq m (2,422 sq ft). marylebonelettings@knightfrank.com Office: 020 3641 5853

All potential tenants should be advised that, as well as rent, an administration fee of £276 will apply when renting a property. Please ask us for more information about other fees that may apply or visit KnightFrank.co.uk/tenantcharges

@KnightFrank KnightFrank.co.uk

Guide price: £1,595 per week

Queens Building, Bayswater W2 A fantastic three bedroom apartment in the Queens development, a converted 1930s Art Deco cinema. 3 double bedrooms, 2 en suite bathrooms, guest cloakroom, reception/dining room, fully integrated open plan kitchen, terrace. EPC: B. Approximatley 120 sq m (1,292 sq ft). hydeparklettingslettings@knightfrank.com Office: 020 3641 7941  

Mayfair Mag June 2016

13/05/2016 10:05:15


PROPERTY

market

insight

Super-prime lettings market Partner and head of Knight Frank Mayfair, Harvey Cyzer, comments on the state of the rental market in prime central London

O

ne sector of the prime London property market has benefitted more than most following a succession of tax changes in recent years affecting high-value property. As stamp duty and other costs associated with buying and holding property have risen, so has demand for super-prime rental property. London sits in the middle of the pack from a global perspective in terms of property taxes, but the recent changes have boosted demand in the lettings market at £5,000 per week and above. The number of super-prime lettings deals across the whole market in the year to 31 March 2016 rose by almost a third, to 112 from 87 in the previous year. By way of contrast, the number of £10 million-plus sales in the year to December 2015 fell by a third to 138 from 206 in the previous year. Higher stamp duty may mean those with a shorter-term outlook decide to rent as pricing and demand in the sales market continue to adjust to the new transaction costs. For example, the stamp duty on the purchase of a £15 million property is £1.7 million, or the equivalent to about three years’ rent. Super prime lettings deals in the year to March 2016 were spread across central London,

with a focus on areas including South Kensington, Knightsbridge, Mayfair, Regent’s Park and Holland Park. However, despite growing demand, supply is not always keeping pace. As the market evolves, landlords do not always appreciate the demands of tenants in relation to specification and finish. A common mistake is to think the requirements of a tenant are less stringent than they are if they were buying the house. It is no coincidence that those properties generating higher rents and yields are those originally destined for the sales market. Yields can exceed four per cent for best-in-class superprime properties due to their scarcity, which compares to an average across prime central London of 2.9 per cent. As the market matures and uncertainty continues to surround the trajectory for price growth in the prime central London sales market in the short-term, the average length of tenancies has increased to two years. It is further proof the market has evolved markedly in the last two years.

As stamp duty and other costs associated with buying and holding property have risen, so has demand for super-prime rental property

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Knight Frank Mayfair, 120A Mount Street, W1K, 020 7499 1012, knightfrank.co.uk

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PostCode Power Rahim Najak, lettings manager at Knight Frank Mayfair, reflects on Mayfair’s enduring allure, the state of the lettings market and the impact of the summer’s referendum on Europe. Katy Parker reports St James’s Place, St James’s, SW1 £1,400 per week


PROPERTY

“We often refer to Mayfair as an ‘international playground’,” Rahim Najak, lettings manager at Knight Frank informs me. “We often get referrals from tenants of ours whose friends just simply want to be in this area – thanks to the amenities, the private members’ clubs, the shopping and the transport links. It’s really a status postcode.” Najak has worked at Knight Frank for nearly five years, and has witnessed firsthand the office’s dramatic growth. “Our book has expanded by a mile from the days when we used to have about 40-50 properties, now we have around 100-110 on our books,” he tells me. I ask him why he thinks this is. “Knight Frank is professional in the sense that everyone has a lot of experience. We have many different divisions so can cater to a variety of clients with a range of criteria. And in terms of generating applicants for clients, we’ve got an international platform so we’re able to broaden the extent of referrals within the company.” The sales market in Mayfair appears to be performing consistently well despite prices dropping in other areas and I am interested to hear what trends Najak is seeing in the lettings market currently. “Core market budgets are coming in from international students and we’re seeing people taking longer rental terms. This may be down to a lack of confidence in the sales market but it feels as though we are getting a lot of applicants from sales and stock coming on to the market that was meant for sale. Something else we’ve seen is St James’s has become much more sought after in recent years; it has a residential feel, whereas Mayfair is more about the lifestyle. We’re launching a few new schemes there, with rents of £4,000-£15,000 per week.” London has been experiencing a certain level of uncertainty in recent months, with the city choosing to elect a new mayor and the impending referendum on Europe looming ever closer. Now, we have our mayor but the uncertainty around our position in Europe remains. I ask Najak what

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

North Row, Mayfair W1K £6,180 per week

impact – if any – this is having on the prime central London property market. “More people are committed to staying where they are right now. We’re seeing rental uplifts still going up but people would rather stay put, so we’ve seen more renewals in the short term. People are looking for stability in their home at the moment,” he responds. But the outlook is optimistic, Najak assures me. “That level of uncertainty will naturally disappear in the next six months to a year. Sales are always strong in Mayfair – the capital values are incredible – but the lettings market has really grown and followed suit.” And what of the future? Najak believes “the summer market will be interesting in Mayfair, purely because of all the new developments launching in the area. The market is still product-led, so we’re finding applicants registered in other areas going to where the right stock is. We’ll see a lot of new schemes completing in Mayfair and St James’s in the next 12-18 months.” For Knight Frank Mayfair, it seems the only way is up: “Last year was a record year for us, in the sense that we completed eight super-prime transactions with rental values above £5,000 per week in comparison to four super-prime transactions the year before. So we’re seeing that hike – it’s gradual but it’s definitely happening.” For more information contact Rahim Najak at Knight Frank Mayfair, 020 7647 6604 knightfrank.co.uk

111


[ hot property]

Grosvenor Square, W1K

G

rosvenor Square was built in 1725 and was one of the first focal points in an area of London that would become the Mayfair village as we know it today. The space was originally enclosed and gated with access limited to only those local residents who contributed to its maintenance. By the mid-1900s however, it was agreed that the square would become public, making it now a member of The Royal Parks. A fantastic opportunity to own a piece of this area’s heritage has just arisen: a fourth four flat has become available in the prestigious 7 Grosvenor Square building where American journalist, publisher, and diplomat Walter

Hines Page once lived. The apartment boasts an unrivalled vista of the leafy green square through the ten windows that overlook it, and the interior has an abundance (4,492 sq ft) of space – making it the ideal city pad for a family or the perfect pied-à-terre for a jet-setting socialite. Upon entering the apartment, you are greeted by a reception room, which features an oval Art Deco floor design, mirrored by an elaborate ceiling and central chandelier – perhaps in honour of the unusual ovalshaped park just outside. The grand, airy living area and the decadent dining room both face the square, allowing for unobstructed light to fill these excellent communal


PROPERTY

spaces. The master bedroom (complete with an ensuite bathroom, a dressing room and a walk-in wardrobe) and the sumptuous wood furnished study also share the privilege of overlooking arguably one of the best scenes in Mayfair. Aside from this impressive section of the property, there are a total of five other bedrooms – three of which have private shower rooms – and a kitchen that stretches almost entirely across the side of the flat, overlooking Brook Street. The kitchen is, of course, equipped with all the modern appliances yet it retains the traditional character of the rest of the property with its wooden units.

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

This property is situated at the very heart of Mayfair and is the perfect spot for those who love the village ambiance of places such as Scott’s and The Connaught, but enjoy being near to the hustle and bustle of Bond Street. It’s difficult to imagine anything quite as satisfying as arriving home to be greeted by the splendid whitewashed brick work, before settling in for the evening accompanied by such a captivating view. Price on application. For further enquiries contact Alastair Nicholson at Knight Frank, 120a Mount Street, W1K, 0208 166 7484, knightfrank.co.uk

113


The lure of lateral living Christian Lock-Necrews, partner and office head of Knight Frank’s Marylebone office discusses the changing face of property in the area, and in particular, the increased appeal of lateral living

“Marylebone has changed considerably since 2010,” says Christian Lock-Necrews. “I have worked in the area for more than a decade and have seen it transform from a quiet backwater into a super-prime location”. This is largely due to the hard work of the Howard De Walden and Portman Estates, who have focused on improving the quality of the retail, restaurant and office offerings, which in turn has increased demand for residential property. It’s true that many international high net worth individuals still view Mayfair as a location to work, socialise and buy luxury goods, but increasingly they are choosing to live in Marylebone. The area offers a wide variety of properties, from grand Georgian townhouses to quiet cobbled mews, as well as apartments, which fall largely into three categories: period mansion blocks, Georgian conversions and new-build developments. “British and Europeans buyers tend to prefer the more traditional flats,” says Christian. “They are drawn to the high ceilings and period features, whereas buyers from Asia and the Middle East are more attracted by turnkey apartments on high floors, with facilities such as a porter and lift.” Getting more space for your money is one of the key drivers for buyers in Marylebone and with some developments almost doubling their pounds per square foot value in the past four years, sellers are keen to ensure they offer maximum space. “Open-plan living and entertaining areas are becoming more popular,” says Christian. “The majority of apartments we sell are open plan, and the few that aren’t are usually adapted to make them suitable for lateral living by the new owners.” Marylebone’s period mansion blocks and Georgian garden squares remain highly sought after, but in the past decade the quality of new-build developments has excelled. With seven luxury residential schemes under construction and another eight planned, long gone are the days where ‘luxury’ stopped at a concierge service and an underground parking space; the best in class new developments now offer the lifestyle to match, with on-site gyms, spas, cinemas, and wine cellars. Although prices in some blocks have significantly increased in recent years, Marylebone is still seen to offer value. With the overwhelming focus on not only the quality of property but also the quality of lifestyle the area provides, the future continues to look bright for Marylebone. Knight Frank, 55 Baker Street, W1U, knightfrank.co.uk/marylebone

New builds £/sq ft value in 2011

£2,103

£/sq ft value in 2015

£2,600

Percentage increase

20%

5 Portland Place No. 5 Portland Place is a luxury boutique development of seven apartments set within an imposing architectural building with a traditional Portland Stone façade on the grand boulevard of Portland Place, just moments from the Langham Hotel. Offering luxurious interiors and benefitting from concierge, lift and secure car parking.

£/sq ft value in 2011

£1,475

£/sq ft value in 2015

£1,950

Percentage increase

32%

Faraday House A modern development of 88 flats arranged around a terraced courtyard, located just moments from Marylebone High Street. The block boasts a 24-hour concierge. A number of flats also benefit from private terraces and secure underground parking.

£/sq ft value in 2012

£1,929

£/sq ft value in 2015

£2,300

Percentage increase

19%

(3 year change)

3 Picton Place A collection of 11 boutique apartments behind an original 1930s redbrick façade, a stone’s throw from the world famous Selfridges department store. The building has a portered entrance, lift, and cycle store, with some flats benefiting from private parking.


PROPERTY

Mansion blocks

Period conversions £/sq ft value in 2011

£1,120

£/sq ft value in 2011

£1,400

£/sq ft value in 2015

£2,400

£/sq ft value in 2015

£2,100

Percentage increase

114%

Percentage increase

50%

Bryanston Court

Montagu Square & Bryanston Square

Bryanston Court is two impressive buildings adjacent to each other on George Street, totalling 124 apartments. It has a team of porters who operate 24 hours a day to ensure extremely well run and secure buildings. They further benefit from impressive entrance lobbies and lifts to the front and back of the buildings.

Originally built as townhouses around manicured private gardens, these adjacent garden squares are located on the east side of Marylebone. Separated by a mews between them, much of both squares have now been converted into flats with the prize apartments being the first and second floor duplexes. Some of the conversions have lifts and some even have live-in caretakers.

£/sq ft value in 2011

£1,000

£/sq ft value in 2011

£1,250

£/sq ft value in 2015

£1,883

£/sq ft value in 2015

£2,111

Percentage increase

83%

Percentage increase

68%

Portman Mansions

Devonshire Place

120 flats in nine red brick Victorian mansion blocks on Chiltern and Porter Street. The development benefits from an onsite porter and estate office as well as a residents gym. The apartments on Chiltern Street also benefit from lift access.

Another typically Georgian street located in the heart of Marylebone Village, where many of what were once large townhouses have now been converted into three to five lateral apartments in a building, some benefiting from lift access and some from outside space.

£/sq ft value in 2011

£1,400

£/sq ft value in 2011

£985

£/sq ft value in 2015

£2,350

£/sq ft value in 2015

£1,631

Percentage increase

68%

Percentage increase

66%

2 Mansfield Street

York Street

A beautiful Portland stone fronted mansion block housing 52 apartments on the east side of Marylebone close to the prestigious Portland Place. The building has an impressive lobby and a team of porters who operate 24 hours a day, creating a very private and luxurious atmosphere.

Running east to west from Baker Street to Seymour Place, York Street is another example of Georgian townhouses that have been turned into flats, often with a shop on the ground floor. Providing traditional Georgian proportions with two or three flats in each building.

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

115


CLARGES STREET

LONDON W1

A BEAUTIFULLY PRESENTED, CONTEMPORARY AND BRIGHT PENTHOUSE APARTMENT WITH TWO WEST-FACING TERRACES AND AN UNDERGROUND PARKING SPACE

ACCOMMODATION Entrance hall • Triple reception room • Kitchen • Master bedroom suite with dressing area Further bedroom suite • Bedroom 3/study • Further bathroom • Guest cloakroom Underground parking space • 2 terraces • EPC=E TERMS Guide Price £4,950,000 Subject to contract Leasehold approximately 137 years remaining

Mayfair

020 7647 6600

1

KnightFrank.co.uk

336809_Savills_MayfairMag_June.indd 1

04/05/2016 16:00


savills.co.uk

LETTINGS LAYOUT ONLY

1

BRIGHT TWO BEDROOM FLAT WITH COMMUNAL GARDEN AND GARAGE shepherd market, w1 2 bedrooms ø 2 bathrooms ø double reception room ø kitchen ø lift ø garage ø communal gardens ø 117 sq m (1,262 sq ft) ø EPC=C

Savills Mayfair & St James's Polly Hughes phughes@savills.com

020 7578 5100 Furnished £1,650 pw (£7,150 pcm) + £282 inc VAT tenancy paperwork fee. Other charges may apply* *£36inc incVAT VATfor foreach each additional tenant/occupant/guarantor whereInventory required. Inventory out fee end – charged at termination the end of or early termination *£36 additional tenant/occupant/guarantor referencereference where required. check out fee -check charged at the of or early of the tenancy and the amount is dependent on the property size and whether furnished/unfurnished. For more details, visit www.savills.co.uk/fees. of the tenancy and the amount is dependent on the property size and whether furnished/unfurnished. For more details including example inventory fee, visit www.savills.co.uk/fees.

16:00


CARLTON HILL ST JOHN’S WOOD NW8 FREEHOLD GUIDE PRICE £6,750,000 JOINT SOLE AGENT

An imposing Grade II Listed, double fronted, detached house (308sq m/ 3,320sq ft) offered in excellent condition throughout. Carlton Hill is located within close proximity of the shopping facilities of St John’s Wood High Street, the transport facilities of St John’s Wood Underground Station (Jubilee Line), as well as the American School in London and Regent’s Park.

ACCOMMODATION AND AMENITIES Principal bedroom with dressing room & en-suite bathroom, 3 further bedrooms with en-suite bathrooms, reception room, kitchen/breakfast room, family room, dining room/living room (currently used as a gym), guest cloakroom, utility room, 65ft landscaped rear garden, front garden with secure gated off street parking for 2/3 cars.


astonchase.com

PRINCE REGENT COURT ST JOHN’S WOOD NW8 SHARE OF FREEHOLD GUIDE PRICE £3,450,000 SOLE AGENT

6 9 – 7 1 PA R K R O A D LO N D O N N W 1 6XU 020 7 7 24 47 24

An exceptional lateral apartment (171sq m/1,843sq ft) with a private terrace, situated within a prestigious block located on Avenue Road. Prince Regent Court is enviably located at the southern end of Avenue Road at the junction with St Edmunds Terrace and close to Regent’s Park. St John’s Wood High Street is within walking distance, as is St John’s Wood Underground Station (Jubilee Line).

ACCOMMODATION AND AMENITIES Reception hall, living room, dining room, kitchen, master bedroom suite with en-suite bathroom, bedroom 2 with en-suite bathroom, bedroom 3/study with shower and basin, lift, 24 hour porterage, terrace, underground parking. EPC=C.


CLIFTON HILL ST JOHN’S WOOD NW8 FREEHOLD GUIDE PRICE £4,650,000 SOLE AGENT

A beautifully presented four bedroom home set over four floors and located on one of St John's Woods premier roads. Clifton Hill is conveniently situated within walking distance of the American School in London and the shops and amenities of St John's Wood High Street and Underground Station (Jubilee Line).

ACCOMMODATION AND AMENITIES Principal bedroom with en-suite shower room, 3 further double bedrooms, family bathroom, double reception room, fully fitted kitchen leading to dining area, 2 guest cloakrooms, rear garden, off street parking for 1 car. EPC=E.


astonchase.com

WELLINGTON PLACE ST JOHN’S WOOD NW8 FREEHOLD £5,350,000 JOINT SOLE AGENT

6 9 – 7 1 PA R K R O A D LO N D O N N W 1 6XU 020 7 7 24 47 24

An opportunity to purchase a superb newly refurbished period house in the heart of St John's Wood. Wellington Place is perfectly situated within moments of St John's Wood Underground Station (Jubilee Line), the various high quality amenities of St John's Wood High Street and only a few minutes’ walk from the green open spaces of Regent's Park.

ACCOMMODATION AND AMENITIES Drawing room, family room, dining room, kitchen with breakfast room, media room, entertainment room, study, principal bedroom with dressing room & en-suite bathroom, 3 further bedrooms all with en-suite bathrooms (2 with dressing rooms), landscaped front garden, roof terrace, secure gated front entrance. EPC=E.


WARWICK AVENUE LITTLE VENICE W9 FREEHOLD £7,950,000 ALSO AVAILABLE TO RENT AT £4,750 PER WEEK JOINT SOLE AGENT

A Grade II Listed period house (382sq m/ 4,113sq ft) benefiting from off street parking for two cars and a delightful 68ft west facing rear garden. The house is offered in good condition throughout and retains many of its original features, with high ceilings and well planned accommodation. Warwick Avenue is situated within walking distance of the shops and restaurants on Clifton Road and Warwick Avenue Underground Station (Bakerloo Line).

ACCOMMODATION AND AMENITIES Master bedroom with large walk-in dressing room and en-suite bathroom, 6 further bedrooms, 1 en-suite bathroom, 3 shower rooms (2 en-suite), reception room, study, gymnasium, dining room, garden room, Bulthaup kitchen/breakfast room, 2 guest cloakrooms, utility room, 68ft west facing garden, patio, off street parking for 2 cars, partial air conditioning, cellar. EPC=E.


astonchase.com

GLOUCESTER GATE REGENT’S PARK NW1 CROWN ESTATE LEASE £5,750,000 JOINT SOLE AGENT

6 9 – 7 1 PA R K R O A D LO N D O N N W 1 6XU 020 7 7 24 47 24

A charming low built house (332sq m/ 3,467sq ft) mainly arranged over two floors only. The house is in good condition throughout and offers spacious well planned accommodation. The property is situated on the outer circle of Regent’s Park and is within walking distance of Regent’s Park Underground Station and the fashionable shopping facilities of St John’s Wood, Marylebone High Street and The West End.

ACCOMMODATION AND AMENITIES Principal bedroom suite with dressing room & bathroom, 3 further bedrooms, family bathroom, shower room, reception room, study, dining room, kitchen/breakfast room, family room, garage, utility room, 2 store rooms, air conditioning. EPC=E.


Property news PrimeResi brings you the latest news in prime property and development in London Château Soligny

A Royal visit His Serene Highness Prince Albert II of Monaco talks motor cars and mansions with Beauchamp Estates’ Gary Hersham at Monaco’s Top Marques

B

eauchamp Estates received a Royal visitor to its exhibition space at this year’s Top Marques Show in Monaco: His Serene Highness Prince Albert II of Monaco, patron of the supercar and luxury lifestyle event, held annually in the Principality at the Grimaldi Forum. Attending the show for the first time, presenting luxury property from the South of France, London, Italy, Mykonos, Herzliya, New York and showcasing London’s Buckingham Gate and Islington Square properties, Beauchamp Estates was delighted to receive His Serene Highness. Members of Beauchamp Estates staff from both the Cannes and London offices were present, including director Gary Hersham, and were excited to receive their

PrimeQResi Journal of Luxury Property

unexpected Royal guest. His Serene Highness Prince Albert was introduced to everyone and spent time talking to Gary Hersham about the UK property market and, in particular, prime central London. Monaco has a special relationship with Great Britain, which Sir Winston Churchill cemented during his many stays in the principality.


Property

Summer in the city Camilla Molyneux, lettings manager at Jackson-Stops & Staff, reports on why short lets are hotting up

W

ith the summer months just around the corner we are entering the popular time for holidaymakers to come to the area for short stays of between one to eight weeks. The appeal of Mayfair is, of course, its exclusive location, which is easily recognisable on a map by the marked boundaries of Oxford Street, Regent Street, Park Lane and Piccadilly. This highly popular pocket of the West End houses the famous Berkeley Square, Grosvenor Square, Mount Street Gardens and is ideally nestled between two of London’s finest green spaces: Green Park and Hyde Park. The accessibility to these beautiful areas is just one of the many draws to the area; others include the famous shopping streets, the incredible diversity of restaurants and numerous luxurious hotels. Short let accommodation is always in high demand at this time of the year and the more seasoned traveller will book their accommodation far in advance of the summer months in order to avoid disappointment. For shorter stays (under three months) there are various options in Mayfair in the form of luxury serviced apartments, which are often set within five-star hotels and are highly sought after. The benefit of these self-contained apartments is the availability of services provided by the hotel, such as a daily maid service, concierge and room service. If you would like to discuss the options available to you please do get in touch – we’d be delighted to assist you with your holiday planning. For further enquiries, contact Camilla Molyneux at Jackson-Stops & Staff Mayfair, 17c Curzon Street, W1J 020 7664 6644, jackson-stops.co.uk/london

Winning Westminster Planning approvals for new homes in London tumble by 64 per cent – but Westminster approves 95 per cent of applications

F

our in ten new London homes were rejected by planners in the first three months of the year, as the total number of approvals tumbled by 64 per cent compared to the same period last year – although Westminster approved 95 per cent of applications in the first three months of the year. Just 4,320 homes across the capital were granted

On the up Investor charge drives big rise in cash purchases across prime central London

N

ew figures have shown that 40 per cent of the properties purchased in prime central London over the last three months were bought in cash, as investors charged on the capital. The Q1 data from Marsh & Parsons confirms what we already knew – that investors piled in to beat the stamp duty land tax surcharge deadline on 1 April. Thirty-six per cent of all sales from January to March were made to buy-to-let investors, says the firm, representing a significant spike from the 26 per cent recorded in Q4 2015, and a sudden reversal of the recent trend of weakening investor influence. Those buying an additional residence became the second most prominent type of buyer, seeing an even bigger jump in market share quarter-onquarter. Second-home owners accounted for nearly a quarter (23 per cent) of all Q1 property purchases, says the firm.

permission in Q1 2016, according to the latest London New Homes Monitor from Stirling Ackroyd. Westminster however, has seen a marked improvement from Q1 2015, when it accounted for just 193 applications for new homes successfully granted. Westminster is closely followed by Enfield with the North London borough approving applications accounting for 520 new homes – out of a possible 615 – across the first three months of 2016. Enfield across the whole of 2015 approved just 859 new homes, out of a possible 1,448, suggesting that this year, local planning officials may be embracing a new approach to decision-making. Approving the third highest number of new home applications is Barking and Dagenham.

primeresi.com s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

125


FOR SALE EATON GATE, BELGRAVIA SW1

£10,800,000

Positioned within a terrace of five elegant townhouses located between Sloane Square and Eaton Square, this delightful Grade II listed residence was built c.1905. The property is sold with listed building consent and full planning permission, allowing the incoming purchaser to create an exquisite family home. The accommodation is arranged over six floors and benefits from a four person lift, measuring approximately 6,225 sq ft (578 sq m) with a Full Repairing & Insuring lease of 126 years.

FURTHER DETAILS:

FOR SALE BERKELEY HOUSE, HAY HILL, MAYFAIR W1

£825,000

Located in Mayfair, this charming one bedroom apartment is situated on the second floor of a popular period portered block, a stone’s throw from Berkeley Square and the open space of Green Park. The accommodation comprises a generous reception room with fitted kitchen, double bedroom with en-suite shower room plus lift and porter. Leasehold 149 years.

FURTHER DETAILS:

David Lee T +44 (0)20 3195 9595 E sales@pastor-realestate.com

Simon Green T +44 (0)20 3195 9595 E sales@pastor-realestate.com

PASTOR REAL ESTATE 48 CURZON STREET, LONDON, W1J 7UL • T +44 (0)20 3195 9595 F +44 (0)20 3195 9596


www.pastor-realestate.com

FOR SALE RICHARDS PLACE, CHELSEA SW3

£1,250,000

Beautifully refurbished one bedroom apartment with own entrance located on a secluded residential street in the heart of Chelsea, a stone’s throw from the boutiques, restaurants and bars of Walton Street. Spanning over 500 sq ft, the property comprises one double bedroom with fitted storage, bright reception with sky lights, bathroom and a fully equipped kitchen with terrace leading off. Leasehold plus Share of Freehold.

FURTHER DETAILS:

FOR SALE SWAN COURT, CHELSEA SW3

£999,500

Newly refurbished to a very high standard, this well-proportioned one bedroom apartment is situated on the ground floor of this highly regarded mansion block a stone’s throw from the Kings Road. Benefitting from 24 hour porterage, the exceptionally bright apartment consists of a reception room, fully equipped separate kitchen, bathroom and large bedroom with fitted storage. Conveniently located to a variety of local boutiques and restaurants, the property would make an ideal home, pied-a-terre or rental investment. Leasehold 116 years.

FURTHER DETAILS:

Simon Green T +44 (0)20 3195 9595 E sales@pastor-realestate.com

Simon Green T +44 (0)20 3195 9595 E sales@pastor-realestate.com


TO LET CHESTERFIELD GARDENS, MAYFAIR W1

TO LET BALFOUR PLACE, MAYFAIR W1

£795 per week

£1,100 per week

Newly refurbished two bedroom apartment within a prestigious block near Park Lane and Berkeley Square. Extending to 840 sq ft (78 sq m) to provide reception room, master bedroom with en-suite bath, second double bedroom, fully fitted eat-in kitchen, tiled shower room, wood flooring and 24 hour porter.

Superb apartment in traditional portered block in Mayfair Village. An exceptional property with wonderful high ceilings, full length windows and original features. The property offers: entrance hall, reception room, two double bedrooms, excellent storage, fitted kitchen and tiled bathroom.

TO LET SHEPHERD MARKET, MAYFAIR W1

TO LET HERTFORD STREET, MAYFAIR W1

£650 per week

£2,625 per week

A gem of a property, this spacious two bedroom duplex apartment is quietly situated in Shepherd Market just off Curzon Street. This modernised property offers reception room with feature fireplace, eatin kitchen, double bedroom, single bedroom, good built-in storage, tiled bathroom and entry phone system.

Superb apartment forming part of the Metropolitan Hotel with hotelstyle amenities. Reception room, dining room, fitted kitchen, two double bedrooms and two bathrooms. Rent inclusive of all bills including wifi & internet, 24 hour room service, concierge, gym/spa facilities and 5 day a week maid service.

FURTHER DETAILS: Spencer Taffurelli or Mollie Crowley T +44 (0)20 3195 9595 E lettings@pastor-realestate.com

PASTOR REAL ESTATE 48 CURZON STREET, LONDON, W1J 7UL • T +44 (0)20 3195 9595 F +44 (0)20 3195 9596


www.pastor-realestate.com

TO LET SHEPHERD STREET, MAYFAIR W1

TO LET NEW CAVENDISH STREET, MARYLEBONE W1

£4,000 per week

£1,850 per week

Beautifully presented high spec house with double garage and three terrace/patio areas. Accommodation: reception hall, media room, wine room, kitchen/dining room, utility, reception room, master suite, two further double bedrooms, two shower rooms, guest cloakroom, Lutron lighting, Crestron media system.

Exceptional newly refurbished apartment in a small modern development behind a traditional Edwardian stone facade moments from Marylebone High Street. Comprising entrance hall, reception room, separate dining room, eat-in kitchen, three double bedrooms, two bathrooms (one en-suite), lift and porter.

TO LET SHEPHERD MARKET, MAYFAIR W1

TO LET MARYLEBONE LANE, MARYLEBONE W1

£525 per week

£850 per week

Delightful newly refurbished interior designed duplex apartment overlooking a charming square. The airy accommodation comprises entrance at street level, first floor reception room with high tech concealed fitted kitchen, double bedroom with fitted wardrobes, marble en-suite shower room.

Wonderfully bright 5th floor two bedroom apartment in modern development close to Bond Street tube station and Marylebone High Street. Entrance hall and reception with wood flooring, two double bedrooms, two bathrooms (one en-suite), fully fitted kitchen with granite worktops, balcony and comfort cooling.

FURTHER DETAILS: Spencer Taffurelli or Mollie Crowley T +44 (0)20 3195 9595 E lettings@pastor-realestate.com


SALES LETTINGS PROPERTY MANAGEMENT CONSULTANCY INVESTMENT ARCHITECTURE COMMERCIAL PROJECT MANAGEMENT

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PASTOR REAL ESTATE 48 CURZON STREET, LONDON, W1J 7UL • T +44 (0)20 3195 9595 F +44 (0)20 3195 9596


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jackson-stops.co.uk

Buckingham Street, WC2N An interior designed one bedroom apartment in a converted Georgian property located between the Strand and Victoria embankment gardens, and just 0.2 miles from Charing Cross station. Entrance hall, kitchen/reception/dining room, master bedroom, shower room. EPC rating D

Asking price: ÂŁ1,295,000 Leasehold

People Property Places

Mayfair 020 7664 6644 mayfair@jackson-stops.co.uk

Offices in London and across the country


A unique, sensitively restored, Grade II listed conversion in W2 of six exceptional 2 and 3 bedroom apartments. Prices from ÂŁ2,625,000

Set on one of London’s prestigious and sought-a er garden squares, this Grade II Listed property has been affectionately restored to create an unsurpassed level of sophisticated living, combining the artisan history of its original architectural design and period features, with the finest contemporary interior specification. The classic stucco fronted entrance, elegant arched windows and original ceiling roses marry harmoniously with herringbone parquet flooring, luxurious bathroom suites and award-winning Roundhouse kitchens, to create a truly unique collection of six 2 and 3 bedroom apartments, in an exceptional location.

Register your interest: newhomes@jackson-stops.co.uk +44 (0)20 7727 5111

22kgs.co.uk


jackson-stops.co.uk

Lowndes Square, SW1X A third and fourth floor apartment (with lift), in a garden square located 0.2 miles from Knightsbridge station. Kitchen/dining room, reception room, en suite master bedroom, 3 further bedrooms, bathroom, shower room, guest WC, study. EPC rating D

ÂŁ2,750 per week (fees apply)*

South Street, W1K A lateral apartment located 0.5 miles from both Green Park and Bond Street underground stations. 2 reception rooms with views onto Mount Street Gardens, kitchen, master bedroom with walk-in shower room, double bedroom, bathroom. EPC rating E

ÂŁ1,800 per week (fees apply)* *For full details of all associated fees please visit our website: www.jackson-stops.co.uk/london/tenants-service-charges.html or contact us for further details.

People Property Places

Mayfair 020 7664 6644 mayfair@jackson-stops.co.uk

Offices in London and across the country


Mayfair the sun shine upon you this summer Sales • Lettings • Property Management • International • Residential Development Land & New Homes • Surveying & Consultancy • Country Houses • Professional Services • JSS Private Client

T: 020 7664 6644

jackson-stops.co.uk mayfair@jackson-stops.co.uk


ESTATE AGENTS


T S OF CHANGE We’re not estate agents. We’re agents of change – at a time when things need to change: For example, estate agents giving clients off-target, unrealistic prices – just to get their instruction. Our way is to be accurate on pricing – right from the start. This way, clients get the best possible price without being subjected to the time-wasting and soul-destroying process of having their expectations lowered. With the preventable disappointment when a more realistic price is realised in the end. For a smarter, more considered approach to buying and selling, give us a call. It’ll be a real change.

020 7221 1117 www.crayson.com

10 Lambton Place London W11 2SH


Campden Grove Kensington W8 Take a dilapidated terraced house in a great little street and give it the architectural version of serious Botox... A traditional Victorian house that ticks all boxes. A great house and location for teenagers or those with a growing family – walk right in.

020 7221 1117 www.crayson.com

10 Lambton Place London W11 2SH


Double reception room Kitchen/ Dining room/ Family room Master bedroom suite Three further bedrooms Two further bathrooms Dressing room Utility room Cloakroom Media room Gym, garden & terrace 3,233 sq ft/ 300.4 sq m Royal Borough of Kensington and Chelsea EPC rating band C Sole Agent Freehold Guide Price ÂŁ6.75 million


GLOBAL NETWORK, LOCAL EXPERIENCE

T | +44 (0)20 7495 9580

E | london@sothebysrealty.co.uk


sothebysrealty.co.uk

Queen Street, Mayfair W1 £5,200,000 4 & 5 Queen Street is a luxury development of two adjoining period buildings provides six spacious three-bedroomed apartments in the heart of historic Mayfair. Apartment 1 is a spacious duplex which occupies the ground and lower ground floors of the right hand building and benefits from a grand reception room and a luxurious master bedroom suite, which includes a shower/steam room. Approximately 1,625 sq ft (151 sq m). Master bedroom with dressing area and en suite bathroom | 2 further bedrooms with en suite bathrooms | Kitchen/dining room| Reception room | Terrace

Leasehold approximately 999 years

Onslow Square, South Kensington, SW7 £1,600 per week

A beautiful two bedroom property on the first floor of a very well maintained building on Onslow Square in South Kensington. The apartment has original features, high ceilings, spacious balcony with views over two communal gardens. Approximately 1,390 sq ft (129 sq m). 2 double bedrooms | Bathroom | Reception room Kitchen | Guest Cloakroom | Balcony

Available furnished for a long let

t | +44 (0)20 7495 9580 e | london@sothebysrealty.co.uk © 2016 UK Sotheby’s International Realty. All rights reserved. Sotheby’s International Realty is a registered trademark licensed to UK Sotheby’s International Realty in the UK. Each offïce is independently owned and operated. All information non - contractual, approximate and subject to error, change and withdrawal without notice. Rent excludes administration fees. Please contact our offïces who can provide this information.


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3rd | 4th | 5th June

Shepherds Close

Price on Application

Mayfair W1K

A recently refurbished & interior designed low built house in the heart of Mayfair benefiting from a large private garden & patio. Quietly positioned in the heart of Mayfair on a car free street this is truly a one of a kind property. EPC rating E

chestertons.com

Mayfair

020 7269 4513 sales.mayfair@chestertons.com


Grosvenor Square

Mayfair W1K

£2,750 per week / £11,916.66 per month

Stunning refurbished 3 bedroom apartment on the 4th floor of a prestigious & grand block on Grosvenor Square which benefits from 24hr uniformed porters, lift & easy access to all the local amenities. EPC rating D

Mayfair

020 7288 8301 lettings.mayfair@chestertons.com

Additional tenant charges apply: Tenancy agreement fee: £222 (inc. VAT) References per tenant including credit check: £60 (inc. VAT) References per guarantor including credit check: £60 (inc. VAT) Inventory check (approx. £100 – £250 inc. VAT dependent on property size) chestertons.com/property-to-rent/applicable-fees


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sinclairrealty.com

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DOMICILE:

BE R M U DA Jewel of the Atlantic

T +1 441 296 0278 M +1 441 334 8437

E estates@logic.bm

Available seven days a week

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FOUNTAIN HOUSE, MAYFAIR, W1K With panoramic views of Hyde Park, on Park Lane, a 6th floor apartment in this prestigious building with 24 hour concierge services and lift. In need of refurbishment, the apartment has a large entrance hallway, formal sitting and dining rooms, fitted kitchen, family room, three double bedrooms, staff bedroom, three bathrooms and a guest cloakroom. Long Leasehold. EPC Rating C. JSA Savills, Mayfair.

PRICE: £6,950,000 LEASEHOLD

John Taylor UK 48 Berkeley Square, London W1J 5AX Tel: 020 3284 1888 Email: london@john-taylor.com

AIX-EN-PROVENCE • BERLIN • BROOKLYN • CANNES • COURCHEVEL • DOHA • GENEVA • GSTAAD • LAKE COMO • LONDON • MADRID • MALTA • MANHATTAN • MAURITIUS • MEGEVE MERIBEL • MIAMI • MILAN • MONACO • MOSCOW • PALM BEACH • PARIS • ST JEAN-CAP-FERRAT • ST PAUL DEVENCE • ST TROPEZ • THE HAMPTONS • VALBONNE

www.john-taylor.com


CLABON MEWS , SW1X Clabon Mews is located in the heart of Knightsbridge. This newly refurbished house has been meticulously rebuilt to exacting standards and refurbished by world renowned interior designers Argent. The house benefits from high ceilings which provide an airy and light feel throughout. This impressive accommodation is provided over only 4 floors and includes two bright reception rooms with a separate dining space that is also serviced by a dumb waiter from the kitchen. The property boasts a wealth of features throughout, with custom made furniture and the finest Italian joinery on all doors and frames. All switches, handles and floor lights are bronzed and the stunning Italian wooden and bronzed staircase is the central feature of the house. The benefit of windows at the back of the home allow all of the sunlight to come through. The bright and beautiful master bedroom has a large generous dressing room which spans across the whole first floor with high ceilings and a large en-suite bathroom with a Boffi bathtub and a shower room. All bathrooms throughout house stone slabs, some of which are booked matched. There are a further two good size bedrooms along with a gym on the lower ground floor. The bespoke Minotti designed kitchen crafted in Italy is well equipped with a separate utility room area and all appliances are Gaggenau and Miele.

020 7580 2030 WWW.ROKSTONE.COM 5 Dorset Street, London, W1U 6QJ enquiries@rokstone.com

Price: £7,500,000 »» Bright Luxury Mews House »» Knightsbridge »» Three Bedrooms »» Designed by Argent Design »» Freehold »» 2,241 sq ft


The secret garden Boasting a Scandi-inspired design and access to one of Mayfair’s most exclusive green spaces, this five-storey property is one to watch


PROPERTY

O

ne of the most enticing characteristics of Mayfair is its ability to continually surprise and delight with new nuggets of history and hidden nooks and crannies. The gardens of Green Street are a fine example of this: as precious as a glittering emerald, the gardens – which were created in 1915 – lie sparkling between Park Street and Dunraven Street and have forever remained solely for the enjoyment of residents and their guests. One of the picture-perfect townhouses that frames this resplendent secret space has now come onto the market, complete with a spiral staircase, a Juliet balcony and direct access to the gardens. The property is reminiscent of homes in well-loved children’s stories such as Peter Pan, Mary Poppins and The Secret Garden, and happily this childlike awe has continued into number 41’s interior design. Behind the Queen Anne façade, the five-storey property has been transformed into a Scandinavianinspired family haven, with space for seven bedrooms. Appalachian bleached oak flooring and a contemporary bookshelf complete with ladder adds a personal yet inviting touch as soon as one enters the hallway. Classic Scandi touches feature throughout the 5,638 sq ft home – for example, the minimal oak staircase and semi-open plan bedroom suites – infusing a sleek, calming flow into the property. Another stunning example of the Scandinavian aesthetic, which is executed so well, is the mixture of fashion and comfort. Each room appears chic yet cosy and sleek, yet not overdone. The bedrooms are finished with patterned rugs and big, squashy

armchairs while the kitchen (with its bright, white cabinets and single, suspended steel strip light above the huge central island) is neutralised with a floor-to-ceiling blackboard and a pair of rustic wooden stools. Playful additions such as the picnic table, pops of colour and conceptual chandeliers make this an excellent family home, or perhaps an early property for a young professional couple. Another rare feature 41 Green Street boasts is the Edwardian elevator, which was one of the first to be installed in London. The traditional wooden panels and brass buttons contrast with the minimal nature of the rest of the apartment, however this clash actually works remarkably well alongside other slightly eccentric additions – such as the traditional tapestry covered dining chairs, which pay homage to the history of the Mayfair building. The other facilities at Green Street are a little more up-to-date, the kitchen is fitted with Gaggenau appliances as well as a food lift, which serves the dining room upstairs, and the bathrooms are finished entirely in Carrara marble. This property is quite evidently a completely unique opportunity both inside and out, offering the best in cutting-edge design as well as one of the most exclusive assets that Mayfair has to offer. If you don’t snap it up, you’ll be as green as an emerald with envy when someone else does.

Behind the Queen Anne façade, the five-storey property has been transformed into a Scandinavian-inspired family haven

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

£14.95m (freehold). For further enquiries contact joint agents Knight Frank, 120a Mount Street, W1K, 020 7499 1012, knightfrank.co.uk, or Wetherell, 102 Mount Street, W1K, 020 7529 5566, wetherell.co.uk

151


South Audley Street £5,495,000 Elegant three bedroom with lift and caretaker

Mount Street £3,850,000 Three bed lateral with views to Berkeley Square

Chesterfield Gardens £1,925,000 High floor two bed with share of Freehold

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Weth


Park Street £4,250,000 Two bed lateral with 24hr porter overlooking Hyde Park

Green Street £2,900,000 Two bedroom in period building with private roof terrace

102 Mount Street, London W1K 2TH

Dunraven Street £1,500,000 Large one bed with views to Green Street Gardens

11:54

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T: 020 7529 5566 E: sales@wetherell.co.uk

wetherell.co.uk

18/05/2016 11:55


PROPERTY

30 Grosvenor Square

4 blackburne’s mews, photo credit: grant frazer

It’s all

white

As the relocation of the American Embassy opens up investment opportunities, we see the launch of the ‘Little White House’

T

he area around the American Embassy in Mayfair has recently been the subject of immense intrigue, since it was announced that the Embassy will be moving to Battersea’s Nine Elms, opening up infinite opportunities for the use of the building. No doubt prompting more intrigue will be the launch of the ‘Little White House’ onto the market – a four-bedroom property on Blackburne’s Mews, set within a private gated complex adjacent to the embassy and within its protective parameter. Thanks to its location, access to the property is currently restricted; however, when the Embassy makes its move in 2017, this looks to be one of the area’s most exciting investment opportunities. After the relocation, Blackburne’s Mews and the vacant Embassy will undergo a significant transformation, with the Embassy building itself being turned into a five-star hotel and luxury resort. Steeped in history, the property dates back to 1732 and is known locally as ‘Little White House’ due to its proximity and long-standing links to the Embassy. During the Kennedy and Johnson administrations of the 1960s local residents from Blackburne’s Mews and Culross Street were allowed to use the

Embassy library and were invited regularly to jazz concerts and art shows. President Lyndon Johnson even discussed renting or acquiring properties in Blackburne’s Mews for Embassy staff use, and it’s from this era that the white stucco fronted house at No. 4 acquired its nickname. No. 4 Blackburne’s Mews provides 2,773 sq ft of living space over lower ground, ground, first and second floors and benefits from an integral garage and access to communal gardens. Just like a scaled-down version of the Washington White House, the Mayfair property has a grand entrance hall with sweeping staircase leading up to a large double reception room on the first floor, which provides great entertaining space and fantastic natural light. The remainder of the accommodation provides four bedroom suites, each with ensuite bath/shower rooms. For sale for £2,500,000 (leasehold). For further information contact sole agent Wetherell on 020 7529 5566 or visit wetherell.co.uk

left to right: 4 blackburne’s mews, photo credit: grant frazer

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s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s


TO EN R T

ADAMS ROW MAYFAIR W1 A stunning four bed mews house split over four levels. Spanning 3,900 Sq Ft with fully integrated surround sound cinema room, gym and steam room. £8,000 Per Week Plus Fees

102 Mount Street, London W1K 2TH T: 020 7529 5588 ■ E: rentals@wetherell.co.uk

wetherell.co.uk

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M ANUFACTUR E DE H AU TE H OR LOGER IE

TONDA METROGR APHE

Steel case Chronograph automatic movement Date in an aperture Integrated titanium / steel bracelet Made in Switzerland www.parmigiani.ch

ATELIER PARMIGIANI 97 MOUNT STREET, MAYFAIR, LONDON W1K 2TD, TEL. 020 7495 5172 LONDON SELFRIDGES, THE WONDER ROOM | ARIJE WATCHES OF SWITZERLAND | FROST OF LONDON | BEAU GEMS BIRMINGHAM RUDELLS | HARROGATE & YORK ODGEN | LEICESTER LUMBERS SCOTLAND AND NEWCASTLE ROX DIAMONDS AND THRILLS | TUNBRIDGE WELLS G COLLINS AND SON

The Mayfair Magazine June 2016  

The Mayfair magazine celebrates the dynamism of the area and brings you the latest features, articles and reviews in the definitive guide fo...

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