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CONTENTS August 2017 60

Regulars 10 Editor’s letter 12 Five minutes with... Actress and style icon Chloë Sevigny 14 The agenda A cultural round-up of what to read, see and do this August 52 Into the wild Channel safari style with animal print accessories and khaki camouflage

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36

Features 16

Around the world in 80 chukkas Do business by the field as British Polo Day goes on tour

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35

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22 26 30 48 60 84 92

Easy rider Celebrating cycling as the two-wheeled sport continues to increase in popularity Grape expectations Taittinger crosses the channel to Kent and signals a new era of English sparkling wine Chic & cheerful Judith Milgrom, creative director at Maje, is queen of the effortlessly thrown-together look Cave of wonders The Royal Academy reveals another side to Henri Matisse Summertime spectacular The bold sunglasses and quirky lenses throwing other frames into the shade Isle of wonders A drive of dreams exploring the untouched Irish countryside and coast Off the beaten track A majestic tour of New Zealand’s vineyards, adventure towns and wildlife restoration projects

34 Collection

50 Fashion

74 Health & beauty

82 Travel

44 Art

68 Interiors

78 Food & drink

101 Property


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MARYLEBONE

& FITZROVIA A U G U S T 2 0 1 7 s i ssue 0 1 5

Editor Lauren Romano

editor

From the

TRAVEL

Isle of wonders

Belfast

a drive of dreams: Northern ireland’s Causeway Coastal Route and the Republic’s Wild atlantic Way

Assistant Editor Melissa Emerson

Capital starters

WORDS: Camilla apCaR

Causeway Coastal Route

Contributing Editors Hannah Lemon Camilla Apcar Kari Colmans Collection Editors Mhairi Graham Richard Brown Acting Assistant Editor Marianne Dick Brand Consistency & Senior Designer Laddawan Juhong Production Hugo Wheatley Jamie Steele Alice Ford General Manager Fiona Smith Executive Director Sophie Roberts Managing Director Eren Ellwood

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Life on the edge Both Northern Ireland and the Republic of Ireland are packed with picturesque views. You will have seen many on postcards and Instagram before, yet for each of those, there are hundreds of lesser-known and equally stunning vistas to be discovered. Case in point is the Causeway Coastal Route, snaking from Belfast to Derry. While the Giant’s Causeway – thousands of basalt columns locked together at the water’s edge – and Game of Thrones’ filming locations are its main draws, there are also quiet temples and abandoned castles. Most fun on a clear day is Carrick-a-Rede’s bracing rope bridge, suspended 100ft above the sea between two spits of land.

Pit stop: The turreted

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he best way to discover Ireland is, without doubt, by car. Whether your trip covers countryside or coastline, driving allows you to experience every shade of land, sky and sea up close, from viridian and turquoise to teal. Most clichés are remarkably true about the Irish landscape and weather: the former, stunning; the latter, unpredictable (getting soaked by drizzle would not inspire such a poetic mood perhaps anywhere else in the world). But the island’s true appeal – a realisation only made when you arrive – is that, with 1,700 miles of coastline, a surprising amount of it feels as though it is still untouched. Taking a week or two to zigzag, wend and wind south-west along the coast, you will often be

Ballygally Castle is also a humble hotel, sat on the Antrim coast and overlooking some of Ireland’s gentlest stretches of sandy beach. alone on the road – but never lonely. The mountains, waters and fields all seem to have a life of their own, whether travelling in the morning, at noon or dusk. Exploring Ireland’s narrow roads is a motorist’s dream (every other car will be a nippy Nissan Micra, which is no bad choice of rental vehicle for tight passes and hilly climbs, albeit the antithesis of luxe). Here, we map out a route along the coast between Belfast and County Kerry, taking in the best pit stops along the way...

Northern Ireland is raising its game in the culinary stakes – last year, the country celebrated a Year of Food and Drink. Belfast is leading the way and is brimming with options – from local oysters at Mourne Seafood to delicious hot chocolates at hidden treasure Co Couture. At Ox Belfast, experimental menus might combine lamb, cauliflower and miso or strawberries and verbena. The restaurant opened in 2013, and is just within reach of starry Michelin heights. The most high-profile opening of recent years, however, is Titanic Belfast (pictured, below): a fascinating interactive museum built on the site of the shipyard where the passenger liner was built.

Pit stop: In the cobbled Cathedral Quarter, the Merchant Hotel confidently combines Victorian and Art Deco styles. Don’t miss the porridge with whiskey cream at breakfast in the Great Room restaurant, served beneath the intricate plasterwork and grand chandelier. From £200 a night, themerchanthotel.com

Turn onto roads just to see where they lead

From £200 a night, hastingshotels.com

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“Look deep into nature, and then you will understand everything better” Albert Einstein We don’t all morph into Bear Grylls the moment we lace up our hiking boots or get handed an Ordnance Survey map. Thankfully, there are many ways to appreciate the great outdoors without going off-grid. On page 22, we meet the bicycle makers and cycling enthusiasts propelling pedal power in the capital, before swapping our Lycra bib shorts for something more formal to count down the chukkas with champagne at British Polo Day (p.16). Talking of fizz, following the news that Taittinger has planted its first vines in Kent, we raise a glass to English sparkling wine at some of the Southeast’s burgeoning vineyards and learn why British bubbles are beating French ones in the blind tasting stakes (p.26). Vineyard tours are also on the cards on a wine and wildlife-filled trip to New Zealand (p.92). And to conclude our quest to find the ultimate outdoor adventure, we head to Namibia for a safari-themed fashion shoot where our brave model shares the frame with a curious leopard and a tower of giraffes (p.52). Bear Grylls eat your heart out.

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Lauren Romano Editor Follow us on Twitter @MandFMagazine

On the

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Also published by

R u n w i ld M ed i a G roup

safari style in namibia, PHOTOGRAPHY: ALEXANDER BEER, STYLING: GRAHAM CRUZ. SEE MORE OF THE FASHION SHOOT from PAGE 52.

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Regulars

5 minutes with... I’m more comfortable in jeans and a turtleneck; before, there were a lot more bells and whistles.

When I was growing up, most of my clothes were second-hand.

I’m actually pretty frugal. I rarely break the £350 mark, which I think is quite conservative for an actress. I do have my eye on a vintage Chanel suit, which is just under £1,000, so that’s a pretty big purchase for me. It needs reworking but I feel it could have good resale potential.

My mother would always take me thrifting. At a very early age, I became addicted to the thrill of the hunt. I remember finding my first Saint Laurent blouse in junior high school and seeing that it was made in France. That’s also why I love vintage. Access to the kind of things you would find in a thrift store opened a whole new world for me.

As a teenager I was obsessed with the 1970s.

Funnily enough, I’d never heard of Vestiaire Collective before I started working with them. But when they got in touch and proposed doing something together I went onto the website and I was like, ‘Wow, this is like a really

CHLOË SEVIGNY

The fashion of Saint Laurent and the styles of Debbie Harry and the Ramones were everything to me. If I could choose to live in any era, I would go back to that decade: the political upheaval, punk, the birth of conceptual art, the wave of American film-making.

The actress and vintage muse on reliving the 1970s and finding the ultimate second-hand gems

If you looked in my wardrobe today you’d see a lot of black miniskirts, little cardigans, floral dresses – anything Gaultier, anything Margiela. I’m always buying denim and trying to find the perfect pair of jeans. I have so many jackets and blazers, too. There’s a 1940s blazer that I’m really into right now, which I wear with cropped jeans and white leather boots.

As I’ve got older, I guess my style has kind of cooled down a bit. I feel like I dress simpler now.

PRODUCTS FROM TOP: GUCCI SCARF, £150; YSL BAG, £160; GUCCI BELT, £80, YSL BROOCH, £150, images courtesy of vestiaire collective and vanina sorrenti

“As I’ve got older, my style has kind of cooled down a bit”

well curated eBay’. The photo shoot we did with fashion photographer Vanina Sorrenti was pretty fun. I’ve always adored her so it was great to work together on the project.

I love buying vintage because there’s more individuality to it. When I come to London, I like Rellik and One of a Kind, and I always go to Marks & Spencer to stock up on the full cotton eighties-style underwear.

Chloë Sevigny is the face of premier luxury re-sale site Vestiaire Collective’s vintage category, vestiairecollective.com

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11/07/2017 12:42


Regulars image courtesy of New West End Company

The agenda Cultural news and events from in and around London

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star show Greg Rutherford, Mo Farah, Laura Muir and co. return to the London Stadium in the Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park this month for the biennial IAAF World Championships in Athletics. Watch the action unfold as athletes compete for medals in a host of track and field sports, from javelin throwing to pole vaulting. 4-13 August, london2017athletics.com

future of fashion Bird Street, just off Oxford Street, is now London’s first smart street with pop-up outdoor retail pods and sustainability initiatives. Pavegen paving slabs generate electricity as well as collect footfall data, while Airlabs’ ClearAir bench removes nitrogen dioxide from the surroundings. Bird Street, W1C, birdstldn.com

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t h is M aryl e b o ne L o n d o n D ry g i n is distilled locally o n t h e si t e of t h e former 1 7 t h a nd 1 8 t h cen t u ry pleas u re gar d en s . t h e ble nd in cl u d es c h amomile, clo v es and grapefr ui t. £ 5 0 , o cad o . co m

2 SIGNED, SEALED, DELIVERED Ever wondered what happens to letters before they land on your doormat? The new Postal Museum has the answers. Discover the story of the first social network by riding the Mail Rail, a section of deserted underground railway tunnels that used to deliver millions of items a day from Paddington to Whitechapel. Phoenix Place, WC1X, postalmuseum.org

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s e l f ri d ges ex plor es t he r elat i ons h i p b e t ween mus i c and fa s hi o n t h is summer , wi t h dj s, li v e m usic a n d e x clusi v e product collaboratio n s. se lf r idge s.co m

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pool party

Crane Kalman Gallery’s latest exhibition Karine Laval: Reflections, celebrates 15 years of the French photographer’s work, and is followed by the release of coffee table tome Poolscapes, published by Steidl. Until 19 August, 178 Brompton Road, SW3, cranekalman.com From left to right: Poolscape 57; Untitled 10 from Heterotopia, both ©Karine Laval

don’t miss: Jesus Christ Superstar at Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre, NW1, 11 August – 23 September, openairtheatre.com 14

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Around the world in

chukkas A civilised afternoon of sporting pleasure, mixed with a little entertaining – Nick Hammond discovers that the only way to do business is by the side of a polo field


FEATURE

DARK

sods of earth fly skywards in a rolling thunder of hooves. Great chunks of grass are violently ripped from the immaculate green sward. It’s harsh out there – but all part of a fast and furious game, exciting enough to induce a flutter in the stoniest of hearts. And you get to watch it with a glass of champagne in your hand. British Polo Day, sponsored by RJI Capital, has become a popular date on the international polo calendar. A celebration of the craft and heritage

of the sport, more than 50 events have been held in 15 countries since 2009. Today, its global series encapsulates ten annual fixtures that combine sporting prowess on the pitch, with networking opportunities on the sidelines. It’s a masterclass in high-end relationship building: multi-national CEOs, luxury brands, aristocrats and entrepreneurs mingle freely in a convivial atmosphere. I find myself at this year’s ‘home fixture’ in Henleyon-Thames and am blessed with the

company of the Cristiano Ronaldo of polo – the darkly mysterious Adolfo Cambiaso. The Argentinian player flew in his family for a run in the Oxfordshire sunshine (along with a few of his favourite horses), and he cuts quite a dash. “All I ever wanted to do is play polo,” Cambiaso shrugs laconically when we meet. He is perhaps the finest professional player ever to pick up a stick, was awarded a ten-goal handicap at 19 (of only two dozen in the world to do so), earns millions a

British Polo Day in Jaipur

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Nina clarkin and Adolfo Cambiaso


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year as world number one, owns horse farming enterprises, and is devilishly handsome to boot. “My children learned to ride as soon as they could walk. It was never going to be any different. I love to ride with them.” What does their mother think about this equine obsession? “She has no choice!” he laughs. So Adolfo, son Poroto and daughter Mia are here today, nonchalantly thundering across the ground in terrifying fashion. Dad looks on proudly – and occasionally demonstrates why he’s regarded as a living legend. To watch him charge past at great speed, horse loosely reined in one hand, while playing keepy uppy with the ball and polo stick with the other, is to surely see one of the most exhilarating sights in world sport. Despite his country’s dominance of the game, there’s still something eccentric and somehow something very British about polo. True, we didn’t invent it, but we have the social side down to a fine art. We dine at Henley under billowing canopies, with British Polo Day managing director and partner Ben Vestey. He runs the impressive franchise alongside chairman Tom Hudson. The pair’s military background is evident in the fact that the entire day breezes past in delightful fashion without a hitch. While there are plenty of women among the spectators, it’s refreshing to find a sport displaying equality when it comes to on-field matters, too. “I’ve witnessed things get better and better for women as my career has progressed,” says Nina Clarkin, the British women’s number one player who is at Henley to hit the ball alongside Cambiaso in a charity game. “Now there is a defined path to a professional career.” Finding your way in polo isn’t without its hurdles, but as Clarkin readily admits, it does help to be married to a professional polo player from New Zealand who can lend you a horse when emergencies arise (John Clarkin). They now have a young child to consider, but this is another family hooked on the adrenaline rush that polo provides. “I’m not sure how I’d feel if my children wanted to do it,” she says. “It can be very dangerous if you’re not fully switched on, but if you start to worry about what could go wrong, you couldn’t possibly play the game properly.” While Clarkin and Cambiaso both assure me that these exhibition games are half as fast as a professional fixture, it all seems hazardous in the extreme to me: the jostling of sticks and horses, great swings of the arms, sudden changes of direction and thunderous cavalcading up and down the length of the pitch. Horses are changed several times during the exhausting eight chukkas but the riders

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

R U L E S The aim of the game – originally a training exercise for the king’s guard – is to get a ball into the opposing team’s goal using the side of a long-handled mallet head. A polo match is either four, six or eight chukkas – a chukka being a period of seven minutes; the interval between each is three minutes. There are four players in a team, playing

O F

P L A Y

on a grass field up to 270m by 150m, with one or two umpires. Riders may make contact and push each other off the line of the ball, as long as elbows are not involved. Any time the ball crosses the line between the goalposts, it is considered a goal regardless of who knocks it through, including the pony itself.

F I X T U R E

L I S T

China: September 2017 Sumba Island, Indonesia: October 2017 Jaipur: December 2017 Jodhpur: December 2017 Abu Dhabi: March 2018 Dubai: March 2018 Great Britain: June 2018

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FEATURE

A British Army Captain and horse in Jodhpur; all photography: sam churchill

British Polo Day is the ideal way to do business – once your champagne is topped up, of course

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sweat on, utterly absorbed in the ferocious contest. Nothing illustrates the sport’s popularity better than British Polo Day. Once the last reveller from tonight’s afterparty is finally persuaded to leave and the stands, marquees, statues, drinks vehicles, caterers, staff, horse boxes and players have left the field, this travelling roadshow begins work on the next event – its 62nd – in China in September.

Sponsors, patrons, business partners and invited guests will later return in harness, so to speak, in places as evocative as India, Morocco, Thailand, Mexico and Russia to name but a few. A British afternoon at the polo – in far-flung, exotic locations. It sounds like the ideal way to do business to me. Once my champagne glass is topped up, of course. britishpoloday.com

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s


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image credit: Mr Thomas Prior, courtesy of MR PORTER The Journal


FEATURE

EASY

RIDER According to Cycling UK, the number of people cycling in Britain has risen almost every year since 2008. As the sport celebrates its 200th anniversary, Melissa Emerson meets some modern-day two-wheel enthusiasts

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une marked 200 years since civil servant Baron Karl von Drais invented the laufmaschine – what is widely accepted as the earliest form of the bicycle. Translated as ‘running machine’, the two-wheeled vehicle was straddled and propelled by a seated rider, and crowds were in awe of it when von Drais completed a nine-mile round trip in a quarter of the time it would have taken on foot. Despite the fact that motor vehicles have long since eclipsed bicycle speeds (although two wheels remain the quickest way of weaving through traffic jams), cycling’s popularity is on the rise. Ensuring that today’s growing army of cyclists look the part, Mr Porter recently introduced exclusive capsule collections, with contemporary Copenhagen-based cycle brand Pas Normal Studios and French Café du Cycliste, to make ill-fitted lycra a thing of the past. Its cycling bib shorts (pictured, right) are just the thing for hitting the road in

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This image and below left courtesy of tokyobike

do you enjoy? I love coarse fishing – there is no better way to relax with nature.

Which other city would you live in? image credit: Mr Thomas Prior, courtesy of MR PORTER The Journal

Adam Garrett, co-owner of Cloud 9 Cycles Favourite bike model?

Marylebone, which has recently secured £1m funding to become a Low Emission Neighbourhood (LEN). It will reduce motor traffic as part of the measures. A second dockless bike-hire scheme, oBike, has also launched in London this summer, with an initial 400 bikes, which users locate and unlock with their smartphones. “Cycling is growing year on year and we have seen a 75 per cent increase in our business since this time last year,” says Gretta Cole, co-owner and marketing director of Velorution, which specialises in bikes for the urban environment. Cole believes that safety technology is helping encourage more cyclists onto the roads. “There are lots of products available, from light-up jackets and smart helmets with indicators and a brake light, to 140-decibel loud horns and AfterShokz bone conduction headphones that you wear outside of your ears.” Adam Garrett, co-owner of Cloud 9 Cycles, which specialises in custom-built bikes, is equally positive. “Both the previous and current Mayor are pro-cycling which has really helped change the infrastructure of London and get more people into this wonderful sport,” he comments. Neil Davis, director of tokyobike, whose lightweight city bikes come in an array of rainbow shades, agrees that London is now on the cycling map. “It’s firmly moved into the mainstream and it’s a virtuous circle – the more cyclists there are, the safer it is,” he says. London might not be ready to usurp cycling capitals such as Amsterdam and Copenhagen just yet, but the wheels are certainly in motion.

A second dockless bike-hire scheme, oBike, has also launched in London

The Cloud 9 Street Racer – the best bike for city riding you can get.

Best cycle accessory? The Finn phone mount. It is simple yet so effective.

Where would you most like to go cycling?

Tokyo – I love that place! It has the most respectful people I have ever met – you don’t need to lock your bike.

Most memorable place you’ve ever cycled? Mérida in Venezuela was incredible. Big hills, long descents and awesome views, paired with an ice cream shop with the most flavours in the world.

Greatest cycling moment in history?

I would love to go to Iran – the people I have met from there are great and the food is delicious. Mix that with the mountains in the north and you have potentially the best cycling terrain on earth.

It has to be Aaron Gwin’s run in Leogang during the Downhill Cup. His tyre came off the rim in the first few seconds yet he still finished with an incredible time. Google it!

Favourite cycling race?

Never have I ever…

Red Bull Rampage.

What should motorists remember?

seen Titanic.

38 Store Street, WC1E, cloud9cycles.com

Always use your indicators and look over your shoulder before you open a door.

Apart from cycling, what other activities

image courtesy of cloud 9 cycles


FEATURE

C Y C L I N G E S S E N T I A L S Never have I ever… Bungee jumped. Nor would I...

What’s your spirit animal? A cat.

Gretta Cole, co-owner and marketing director of Velorution Which country would you most like to cycle around? Spain or Italy.

Best cycle accessory? At the moment I really like the Lumos helmet (pictured, right); it’s extremely innovative.

Apart from cycling, what other activities do you enjoy? Dancing, pilates or walking.

Favourite cycling race? The Brompton World Championships.

What’s the best thing to do in London in the summer? Cycle to Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre. All the London parks are glorious in the summer.

What should motorists

Marinette MeshPanelled Cycling Bib Shorts, £160, cafe du cycliste, mrporter.com

ZONYK AERO PRO SUNGLASSES, £151.99, adidas, rxsport.co.uk

remember? It’s important to respect each other. Cyclists have as much right to be on the road as any vehicle, so give way and keep your distance when overtaking. I also think that cyclists should do the same.

lumos helmet, £179.99, lumos, velorution.com

The Wayfarer 8 Speed, from £2,000, sven cycles, svencycles.com

PRO TEAM aERO JERSEY COLOURBURN, £150, rapha, rapha.cc

Which other city would you live in? I have a house in the south of France; it’s so beautiful there.

Do you cycle to work? I don’t cycle to work as I live very close to our Marylebone store, but I do take the opportunity to cycle different models depending on what I’m doing. If I have local appointments I take a folding bike, and for longer rides an electric one (because I hate getting sweaty but I still want the exercise).

Viva Universal Bell in brass, £20, tokyobike, tokyobike.co.uk

Lost Lanes: 36 Glorious Bike Rides in Southern England by Jack Thurston, £15, tokyobike, tokyobike.co.uk

Bisou bike in saffron, £550, tokyobike, tokyobike.co.uk

Best place you’ve ever cycled?

Greatest cycling moment in history?

London of course.

All of the action from the 2012 and 2016 Olympic Games.

75-77 Great Portland Street, W1W, velorution.com

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Striped Stretch-Knit Cycling Socks, £17, cafe du cycliste, mrporter.com

cortex helmet in mint, £199, hedon, hedon.com

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THE VINEYARD, HARVEST AND WINERY AT GUSBOURNE

Grape

expectations As Taittinger plants vines in Kent, Chris Allsop raises a glass to a new era of English sparkling wine

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he wind pulled at his greying hair, the rain speckled his green suit, but the inclement weather couldn’t erase the infectious grin of Pierre-Emmanuel Taittinger – president of the eponymous champagne house – as he planted vines at the ceremonial launch of Domaine Evremond vineyard. This was Kent in the spring, after all. The plantings on 4 May were the physical realisation of what had been widely known for a number of years – that major players in the French wine market were investing in England’s increasingly vine-crossed Southeast. That Taittinger was the first to take the plunge comes as no surprise; the forward-thinking champagne house also dived into the US market 30 years ago, when it planted vines in Napa Valley under its Domaine Carneros brand. But what had prompted the French to finally act? Was it the wine world equivalent of a slap with a velvet glove in 2015, when English sparkling wines, in a blind tasting, bested bubbly behemoths such as Pol Roger, Veuve Clicquot, and, indeed, Taittinger? And then – slap, slap – English wine came top at another blind tasting in early 2016. “Gerard Basset [Master of Wine and Master Sommelier] said recently that England is a bit like New Zealand in


FEATURE

the 1980s,” Charlie Holland, winemaker and chief executive of the award-winning Gusbourne winery, tells me. “People are now seeing similarities between New Zealand just before its boom and English wines.” Following decades of promise, England’s is a market come of age. Technically it could be called English wine’s ‘Second Age’, as the monasteries of the Middle Ages enjoyed flourishing vineyards during a period of global warming referred to as the ‘medieval warm period’. However, the first recorded commercial production of bottle-fermented sparkling wine (the same process used in champagne production) made from, crucially, UK-grown grapes, was in the late 1960s at Pilton Manor in Somerset. While the Southwest still has its own share of wine producers – most notably Camel Valley in Cornwall – it’s in the Southeast – in Hampshire, Sussex and Kent – that you’ll find the greatest concentration of the 133 and counting commercial vineyards in Britain. And sparkling wine accounts for approximately 66 per cent of their output. “England is perfectly suited to the production of sparkling, particularly across the South Downs in Hampshire where the chalky subsoil is the same as that found in the Côte des Blancs in Champagne,” explains Ian Kellett,

Global warming has created climactic conditions that match those of Champagne

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managing director of South Downs-based Hambledon Vineyard which planted its first vines in 1952. “Our climate is also very good. Although average temperatures in July and August are generally lower than in Champagne, we tend to have warmer and longer autumns, which allow the grapes to fully ripen, while preserving acidity levels.” In fact, as Holland points out, global warming, in part, has created climactic conditions in southern England that match those of the Champagne region in the 1970s.

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FEATURE

T h r e e t o

t r y

Gusbourne Rosé 2013 Gusbourne Rosé – made entirely from Pinot Noir – offers strawberry aromas and a delicate, creamy redcurrant and ripe green apple palate, with a long, dry finish. Established in 2004, Gusbourne owns around 100 hectares spread across Kent and Sussex. £40, gusbourne.com

Hambledon Classic Cuvée England’s oldest commercial vineyard supplied one of the wines that knocked the French off their sparkling perch in 2015. Hambledon’s blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir produces floral aromas and a vivid palate of greengage and apple. £28.50, hambledonvineyard.co.uk

Nyetimber Classic Cuvée Multi-vintage Nyetimber Classic Cuvée is a pale gold glassful of spice and toast aromas followed by flavours of almond and honey. In 2015, it was the second of the English wines (alongside Hambledon) that won out against the French. Nyetimber – England’s largest vinegrowing estate – is respected as one of the country’s leading producers of sparkling wine with 170 hectares across West Sussex and Hampshire. £34.99, waitrose.com

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the winery and vines at hambledon

“Thirty years ago, it was difficult to ripen every year,” he adds, “but now we have perfect conditions. We don’t want it to get any warmer, really.” As Frazer Thompson, chief executive of Kent-based Chapel Down Winery, observed to The Atlantic, with every degree centigrade that the global temperature rises, the wine growing region moves 270km north. This means that as England reaps the rewards, the Champagne region is pouring huge resources into research to learn how to adjust to the dropping acidity levels caused by warmer temperatures (or, alternatively, just chasing the wine-growing envelope north). Not that English sparkling is going to dethrone champagne any time soon (production in the UK stands at a diminutive annual average of around five million bottles compared to Champagne’s roughly 300 million), although Brexit could make it more expensive to bring European wine into the country, offering greater incentives to buy local. But while the arrival of Taittinger does, to an extent, “validate English wine”, as Holland puts it, English winemakers are at pains to avoid comparisons with their greatest competitor. It’s a sign of maturity, that awareness that English wine is

moving out of the shadow of big names on the world stage. And while the weather can still deliver a shock, as seen in early May when a late frost (which some called the worst in 27 years) caused catastrophic damage to vineyards across the country, even this can’t knock the confidence of an industry hitting its stride. In fact, producers may even have solved that most vexing question of a unifying brand name for English sparkling à la champagne, cava, or prosecco. Previous suggestions have included the distinctly French-sounding ‘Britagne’ (pronounced ‘Britannia’), as well as the underwhelming ‘Merret’, for English scientist Dr Christopher Merret who helped invent champagne in the 17th century. Instead, it seems that ‘British fizz’, the brainchild of a New York bar owner, has been seized upon. It’s no ‘champagne’, certainly, but, then, isn’t that sort of the point?

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Chic cheerful Nobody nails insouciance quite like the French. Judith Milgrom, creative director at Maje, gives Charlotte Phillips a lesson in the art of looking effortless

JUDITH MILGROM, image ©LIONEL GASPERINI

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ooking effortlessly put together can, in fact, take a lot of effort. It’s not simply a question of donning a red lip, a flat pump and your grandmother’s vintage Chanel handbag, as our Gallic cousins might have us believe – it’s about having a certain attitude to carry it off, too. Over on this side of the Channel, those looking for simplicity and sass can find both at Maje, where pretty, feminine silhouettes collide with statement colours to create bold, unfussy ensembles. For allowing us to feel as though we’re dressed for sipping a café au lait on Paris’ Left Bank even though we’re stuck on the Jubilee Line, we have Judith Milgrom, Maje’s French-Moroccan creative director, to thank. A love of fashion runs in her blood: her father worked in textiles and her sister is the founder of fashion brand Sandro, often uttered in the same breath as Maje. “I founded Maje in 1998, at a time when minimalism was trendy. Plain black, navy, grey, white and clean lines were almost everywhere. I wanted to be different, to show that you can play with fashion, mix and match different colours, wear prints and still be beautiful and stylish,” she says. Colour is key: Milgrom’s first collection didn’t contain any black pieces at all, but was awash with versatile pattern and prints. While black has crept back into subsequent collections, functionality remains a cornerstone for the brand. Maje’s current S/S17 edit includes a denim capsule range of easy to wear, stylish separates, including transitional pieces such as kimono jackets and printed jumpsuits. Milgrom defines Maje as “feminine and modern, urban yet bohemian”. It’s a clever, wide-ranging definition that reflects the contradictions inherent in French style, which she believes “is still praised for its know-how, craftsmanship and creativity. “It faces strong competition worldwide from other countries in Europe, the US and also Asia,” she continues. “But what is unique about French fashion is that it makes people

“French fashion makes people all around the world dream about a certain idea of chicness and style”

Suede M Walk bag, £369


INTERVIEW

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INTERVIEW

all around the world dream about a certain idea of chicness and style.” Like all fashion brands, Maje is adapting to the digital world. “We’re all questioning the rules that were established a long time ago by the fashion system – look at the see now/buy now phenomenon,” Milgrom says. “Some brands are only available online, with no retail presence – today, there are many more ways and possibilities to run a fashion business, and changes happen quicker and quicker.” To stay ahead, Maje is diversifying. There’s talk of a winter collaboration with an unnamed American label that will be in stores by the end of September, an eyewear collection to celebrate the brand’s 20th anniversary in 2018 and expansion into new markets such as Japan. Travel provides a constant source of inspiration for Milgrom. “I like it when I can feel the sun,” she smiles. “But since I bought a country house in Normandy, I disconnect at the weekend there, surrounded by nature.” Back at home in Paris however, she likes nothing better than to take part in that very French pastime of people watching. “What inspires me the most is sitting in a café watching women move, walk, and looking at how they are dressed.”

Above: floaty printed shirt, £209; crÊpe straight-cut dress, £185

“What inspires me the most is sitting in a café watching women move, walk, and looking at how they are dressed” When it comes to her own style, some of Milgrom’s most treasured pieces are vintage, from old Yves Saint Laurent shirts to Azzedine Alaïa dresses – “he’s a body sculptor”. She finds the cyclical nature of fashion fascinating and admits she is influenced by the vintage items in her wardrobe, which she then adapts in a modern way. This in turn influences the silhouettes she creates at Maje, including her favourite – a cocktail dress with an underlined waist. It’s a very feminine look without being overly fussy or formal. To give said frock a French edge, follow Milgrom’s lead and team with a flat pump, tousled hair and a devil may care attitude – et voilà, you’re good to go. 30 Marylebone High Street, W1U, uk.maje.com

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image credit: Betina DuToit for Dior

Star quality

Dior has updated its Rose des Vents collection, inspired by the lucky star charm that Christian Dior carried when he travelled around the world. Mix and match dainty medallions, and go wherever the wind may take you. From ÂŁ980, dior.com

collection


COLLECTION Jessica Chastain in the Piaget Sunlight Journey collection

Diamond necklace, POA

A Diamond Den Samer Halimeh NY is renowned for its unrivalled diamond jewellery, favoured by sultans and A-listers. For a closer look at the collection, head to its multi-storey mecca in Knightsbridge – a bedazzling bomb-proof boutique, complete with James Bond-style vaults below ground. From £5,000, 161 Knightsbridge, SW1X, samerhalimeh.com

Catch the sun Unveiled at Paris Haute Couture Week, Piaget’s scintillating new Sunlight Journey high jewellery collection brings together fine marquetry and rare, sun-kissed gemstones that capture the spirit of summer, modelled by brand ambassador Jessica Chastain. POA, 169 New Bond Street, W1S, piaget.com

Piaget diamond Viva l’Arte ring in 18K pink gold, set with red spinels, purple sapphires and diamonds

Time to be charmed

Bracelet, £3,200; Earrings, £17,000

A Festival of Colour Lily Gabriella’s vibrant new Holi collection is inspired by the Hindu festival of colour and love. Intricate handcrafted designs are resplendent with diamonds and vivid gemstones, including gloriously green peridots – the birthstone of August. Each piece can be customised with the stone and gold tone of your choice. From £1,800, lilygabriella.com

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Mary Ching’s talismanic Treasured Amulet collection is now available at Frost of London in Mayfair, offering bespoke fine jewellery for watches. Customise your cuff with precious gems and curious charms, from ornate angel wings and playful creatures, to the all-seeing Eye of Protection. From £750, 108 New Bond Street, W1S, frostoflondon.co.uk

Charms from left: £6,500; £7,600; £11,600

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T he

f i ne s t

of

Pe a r l s Yoko London’s new flagship boutique in Knightsbridge is a rare gem in the world of fine jewellery. CEO Michael Hakimian discusses the jeweller’s history and why pearls are so universally loved. Olivia Sharpe reports

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or centuries, people have been fascinated by pearls. It might seem surprising that such allure can come from a piece of grit that has worked its way inside a mollusc, but the beauty and history of this rare gem continue to captivate. One man who has no difficulty explaining why pearls are so special is Michael Hakimian, CEO of leading pearl jeweller Yoko London. To him, pearls “have no rivals as they represent the beauty of nature at its best”. This year marked an important moment for Yoko as it opened its new London flagship boutique in Knightsbridge. Although a leader in its field, with four decades of experience and many millions of pounds worth of pearls passed through its hands, Yoko has remained relatively under the radar over the years. The turning point came in 2013, when the Victoria and Albert Museum commissioned the jeweller to create four masterpiece necklaces showcasing the finest South Sea pearls for its Pearls exhibition. The CEO acknowledges that this was “a very important milestone in the brand’s development”, marking the first time Yoko had been put under the international spotlight. Opening the boutique on Knightsbridge Green has proved to be another crucial moment. “We were always looking for a key

necklace from the belgravia collection

location that would bring us closer to the luxury world,” Hakimian explains. Inside, the store is spread across three levels. The ground floor displays one-of-a-kind pieces from the Masterpieces collections, alongside contemporary collections, such as Novus and Pendulum, while downstairs is reserved for bespoke appointments. Here, clients can work closely with a member of the Yoko team on a custom piece or a pre-existing creation that they would like to have redesigned, choosing from the brand’s inventory of loose pearls and strands. Yoko London was established by Hakimian’s father 44 years ago and pearls are very much in the CEO’s blood. His father was originally involved in both gemstones and pearls, but Hakimian convinced him to expand on the latter. It began as a wholesale business, buying bulk pearl orders and dividing stock into categories depending on the gem’s quality. Only the best would be stored in the company’s vaults. “I wanted to create jewellery that only used the finest pearls, and to do that you have to build your stock and be patient,” he says. Unlike other gemstones, pearls originate entirely from nature. They cannot be cut or shaped like diamonds to remove impurities. Farmers must open hundreds of oysters before they find one containing a pearl and, even then, it might be a dud. Hakimian explains that, in order to make a


COLLECTION Model wears necklace, earrings and ring from the Feronia masterpieces Collection

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COLLECTION

Yoko London long necklace, the team needs to have at least 5,000 pearls at hand to find 100 matching ones, and to acquire an AA or AAA pearl (the highest quality), you need between 20,000 to 50,000 pearls at your disposal and, even then, only one of them would be suitable. While patience is a virtue in the pearl-farming world, time is of the essence in the luxury industry. One of Yoko’s recent commissions was for a two-metre necklace made of AA- and AAA-quality South Sea pearls. “While not difficult in itself, the challenge was that the client needed it in 24 hours because he wanted to present it to his wife,” Hakimian smiles. By setting pearls into modern pieces such as twofinger rings and ear cuffs, Yoko has cast the net wide for this versatile gem, highlighting its continued relevance. “We’re constantly breaking the rules by mixing origins, sizes and natural colours and the more we do that, the more success we get.” As a result, the brand counts the likes of Katy Perry, Beyoncé and Michelle Obama – who famously wore a pair of Yoko earrings when she was interviewed by Oprah Winfrey in 2016 – as its supporters. “The word ‘cool’ is not something I would have used 20 years ago to describe luxury jewellery, but now, even at the highest end, it has to be.” Of course, like the unpredictability of nature, Hakimian understands the fleetingness of trends, which is why Yoko will always continue to create pieces that withstand the test of time. Pearls may have waxed and waned in popularity over the years, but their timelessness is undeniable.

“I wanted to create a jewellery company that only used the finest pearls ” from top: Model wears necklace, earrings, ring and bracelet from the capri collection; Earrings from the Pendulum collection; Cuff from the Mayfair collection; Yoko London’s Knightsbridge store; Ring from the Calypso collection; all poa

8 Knightsbridge Green, SW1X, 020 3887 7237, yokolondon.com

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Photography by Levon Biss - www.microsculpture.net

Moooi presents a life extraordinary! Moooi London · 23 Great Titchfield Street · London, W1W 7PA Moooi Amsterdam · Westerstraat 187 · 1015 MA Amsterdam Moooi New York · 36 East 31st Street · New York, NY 10016 Moooi Tokyo · Three F 6-11-1 Minami Aoyama · Minato-ku, Tokyo www.moooi.com


COLLECTION

Magnum

Opus

How the King of Diamonds became one of the leading names in haute horology words: Richard Brown

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s perhaps the 20th-century’s primary purveyor of exceptional gemstones, it was always going to be a challenge for Harry Winston to unshackle itself from an image that revolved solely around spectacular sparklers. When the brand entered the watch world in 1989, it was, therefore, a shrewd move to set course for the most serious end of watchmaking. Two series of watches came to embody the ambition, as well as the sincerity, with which Harry Winston diversified into haute horology. The first, project Opus, launched in 2001, under the stewardship of then-managing director of rare timepieces Max Büsser (now of MB&F fame). Each year, said Harry Winston, an independent rock-star watchmaker would be given carte blanche to collaborate on a supercomplicated, ultra-contemporary game changer of a timepiece. Each spring, for 13 consecutive years – during which time Harry Winston established a state-of-the-art workshop in Geneva – journalists and watchmakers awaited the unveiling of Harry Winston’s latest piece of wizardry. Aesthetically, the results were varied and polarising. Mechanically, they were always astounding. On the dial of Opus 11, for example, four rotating jigsaw pieces would spring to life every hour, meeting at the centre of the dial to reveal the time. Elsewhere, Opus 8 displayed hours and minutes through a complex system of 59 pivoting hands and 11 rotating triangles. In 2013, Harry Winston was acquired by Swatch Group, and mission Opus was suspended until 2015, when the jukeboxinspired Opus 14 was revealed by new CEO Nayla Hayek. Hayek has subsequently said that the Opus family will continue to be updated, but will follow no particular schedule.

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Project Z, Harry Winston’s second series of world-first wristwatches, launched in 2004. The collection took its name from Zalium, a zirconiumbased alloy developed by Ronald Winston, the son of Harry Winston and a talented chemical engineer more used to working with rocket propellers. Ronald realised that Zalium’s properties – it is extremely hard, strong and corrosion resistant – made the material perfect for watchmaking. He presented Zalium to the brand his father had founded, which chose to use it exclusively in a line of space-age sports watches, aka Project Z, the latest of which is this year’s Z11 (above). A skeletonised, matte-finish, twin-barrelled automatic, the openwork dial of the Z11 is intended to mirror the steel beams and superstructures of Harry Winston’s hometown, New York City. From Manhattan, Harry Winston grew an empire that saw him become the ‘King of Diamonds’. From its watchmaking base in Geneva, the brand has become a leading light in the world of fine horology. Project Z11, £17,200, harrywinston.com

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the thrill of it When conquering the world, you need a watch that’s been tested to the limit W O R D S : R i c h a rd B row n

F o r d e e p- s e a d i v e r s

Fo r r ac i n g d r i v e r s

For jet pilots

Grand Seiko’s first mechanical diver’s watch is built to withstand a depth of 600 metres. A high-beat movement (36,000 vibrations per hour/ten beats per second) is accurate to +5/-3 seconds a day. The sliding bracelet extension accommodates pressure changes and can be worn over a wetsuit. Hi-Beat 36000 Professional 600m Diver’s, £10,195, grand-seiko.com

Zenith’s new Defy El Primero 21 integrates two separate escapements into one movement. The first tells the time and runs at 36,000vph; the second is the stopwatch and beats at 360,000vph. This enables a central seconds hand to complete one revolution per second. Press the button and the hand will stop at one of 100 split-second markers. Defy El Primero 21, £9,100, zenith-watches.com

The latest in G-Shock’s line of Gravitymaster watches, the GPW2000 can withstand external shocks, centrifugal gravity and extreme vibrations. Radio wave reception, GPS and Bluetooth make it one of the world’s most accurate timepieces. Alongside latitude and longitude it will tell the time in more than 300 cities. G-shock Gravitymaster GPW2000, £635, casio-watches.com


COLLECTION

F o r at h l e t e s

For explorers

Rafael Nadal’s RM 27-03 is capable of withstanding 10,000 Gs of shock thanks to a ‘unibody’ baseplate where the case middle is removed and, instead, the bezel and caseback is assembled directly onto the baseplate – a type of racing-car construction that ensures maximum rigidity and greater resistance to impacts. RM 27-03, £698,500, richardmille.com

Breitling’s Emergency was the first timepiece to be equipped with a personal locator transmitter. Unscrew a protective cap and broadcast a distress signal to the closest search-and-rescue team. To date, it has helped rescue more than 20 individuals, including Richard Hammond from a mountain top in British Columbia on Top Gear. Emergency Night Mission, £16,870, breitling.com

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IMAGE CREDIT: Breitling ambassador Yves ‘Jetman’ Rossy completes a flight above Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, May 2012. His carbon-kevlar jetwing is equipped with four jet engines, each with a 22 kg thrust, propelling the Swiss aviator to speeds of 300 km/h ©Breitling

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ART

Do not pass go Saunter down New Bond Street this summer, and somewhere between Mulberry, Dolce and Montblanc, you will stumble upon the familiar figure of Mr. Monopoly gleaming from Eden Fine Art’s window. Its creator, graffiti artist Alec Monopoly, combines wealth and whimsy in all his paintings and sculptures: step inside to meet Richie Rich and Uncle Scrooge. 123 New Bond Street, W1S, eden-gallery.com

Alec Monopoly, Monopoly life is a movie, 2017


ART

Prize lots

Sold £1,565,000 E sti m ate : £ 1 , 0 0 0 , 0 0 0 – £ 1 , 5 0 0 , 0 0 0

Dream Deferral, Mark Bradford, 2009 “The top lot at our Post-War & Contemporary Art sale was this painting by Mark Bradford, who is indisputably the man of the moment. His critically-acclaimed exhibition at this year’s Venice Biennale cemented his reputation as one of the most singular voices in contemporary art and culture. His work is beautiful, in short supply, but with a strong gallery representing him and almost universal museum interest. As a result, a work of this quality inspired global interest and voracious bidding.” – Ralph Taylor, director of Post-war and Contemporary art at Bonhams

U

m pco

ing

E sti m ate £20, 000 – £ 3 0 ,0 0 0

Sold £24,245,000 Estimate: £12,500,000 – £ 1 6 , 5 0 0, 00 0

Le moissonneur (d’après Millet), Vincent van Gogh, 1889 “This painting is one of ten that van Gogh made of a series of drawings by Jean-François Millet entitled Les Travaux des Champs, while he was in an asylum in Saint-Rémy. Seven now reside in Amsterdam’s Van Gogh Museum; one in the Tel Aviv Museum of Art; the other is on loan to Kunsthaus Zürich. A strong bidding battle ensued. We had tremendous pre-sale interest and it richly deserved to make well over the top estimate.” – Jay Vincze, head of Impressionist and Modern art at Christie’s London

Men Have Lost Their Spirits, Grayson Perry, c.1988 This hand-built, sculptural work was acquired directly from the artist by the owner in the 1980s, and has been unseen since. Made in Britain sale, 13 September, sothebys.com

E s timat e £ 4 ,0 0 0 – £ 6 ,0 0 0 A late Victorian sapphire and diamond bangle With an intricate openwork design of old and rose-cut diamonds arranged in a foliate pattern, this romantic piece would make a striking finishing touch to a ball gown, or a bride’s ‘something blue’. Antique & Modern Jewellery sale, 10 August, fellows.co.uk

sold, from Top: Mark Bradford, Dream Deferral, signed with the artist’s initials, titled and dated 2009 on the reverse, mixed media collage with metallic elements on canvas, 122.2 cm X 152.2 cm, Post-War & Contemporary Art sale, 29 June, bonhams.com, image courtesy of Bonhams; Vincent van Gogh, Le moissonneur (d’après Millet), painted in Saint-Paul-de-Mausole asylum in Saint-Rémy in 1889, oil on canvas, 43.3 cm x 24.3 Cm, Impressionist & Modern Art Evening Sale, 27 June, Christie’s King Street, image courtesy of Christie’s Images Ltd 2017 upcoming, from top: Grayson Perry, Men Have Lost Their Spirits, c.1988, earthenware, height: 61 cm; 21 CM, image courtesy of Sotheby’S; A late Victorian Ceylon sapphire and diamond-hinged bangle, sapphire of Ceylon origin, estimated total old-cut diamond weight: 1.80cts, inner diameter: 6 cm, weight 27.2 gm, image courtesy of Fellows

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ART

palette and plough Benappi Fine Art Victorian watercolours may not inspire the greatest enthusiasm at first glance, but the work of William Henry Hunt is in a league of its own. Landscapes and fruit basket still-lifes occupied most of his paintings and drawings; Hunt also painted a humble, sympathetic vision of rural society through the likes of The Broom Gatherer, The Vegetable Man and The Miller in his Mill. Clock a collection of 20 from the 1820s and 1830s at The Courtauld Gallery. Until 17 September, Somerset House, Strand, WC2R, courtauld.ac.uk william henry hunt, The Broom Gatherer, c.1835, ©Harris Museum and Art Gallery Preston

of warmer climes If your latest Italian escape has left you with the holiday blues, hot-foot it to Repetto Gallery. A display of mid-century creations by designer Gio Ponti draws on his musing that colour is the Mediterranean law: from Murano glass bottles to pieces by the late artist’s contemporaries including Lucio Fontana and Fausto Melotti. Until 15 September, 23 Bruton Street, W1J, repettogallery.com

clockwise from below: Fausto MELOTTI, Vaso Pavone, 1955; GIO PONTI, Gatto rosso, 1956; Gatto blu, 1956

don’t miss... An exhibition of a different sort: The Great Eight Phantoms (eight Rolls-Royces on show in celebration of the new Series VIII). 29 July – 2 August, 101 New Bond Street, W1S, bonhams.com

What characterises Benappi? Our mentality is to show only the highest quality objects. This meticulous process of selection has been passed down through generations – a rich tradition inversely proportional to the age of the team here in London, under the leadership of Filippo Benappi who, at only 29 years old, is one of the youngest dealers in Old Masters. What sets Dover Street apart from your gallery in Turin? The space in Turin is situated in the heart of the city centre in a historical palace, an artist’s studio constructed for the owner of the former palace in the 19th century. It has all the charms of a historical building and spans three floors. Our London gallery is simpler and more businessfocused. However the history of the space has been carefully reinstated through our restoration, taking it back to its original Georgian layout. Do you have a favourite sale? The Matthias Stomer we recently presented here was a lucky charm for our opening in June: the centrepiece of our exhibition and the first work hung. It was also an important discovery in art historical terms, repositioning the artist’s later Sicilian period as one of great substance. 27 Dover Street, W1S, benappi.com


Promotion

Off the Wall From ski resorts in the Swiss Alps to classic automobiles, Pullman Editions’ Art Deco-style posters capture the glamour of a bygone era

T

he allure of heading off-piste in the Alps, or cruising the Côte d’Azur in a classic car will never fade. Glamorous destinations such as these, immortalised in travel posters from the ’20s and ’30s, are the inspiration behind Pullman Editions. Founded in 2010 by Georgina Khachadourian and her husband Simon, an art dealer and owner of Pullman Gallery in St James’s, Pullman Editions recreates travel posters in an Art Deco style for a contemporary audience. The idea for the business came about after Simon noticed a growing demand for vintage posters, which were fetching high prices at auction. “The Art Deco era has an enduring appeal,” says Georgina. “It’s often associated with the golden age of travel and vintage posters capture that sentiment. We have updated the concept, designing artwork in the same style but with a more vibrant colour palette.” Created by house artist Charles Avalon, every poster is hand-painted to about half the size of the finished piece, then printed using traditional methods onto 100 per cent cotton paper before being signed and hand-numbered – each is available in a limited edition of just 280. The finished artworks, which cost £395, are then displayed in the Pullman Editions shop on Pimlico Road. There are currently 110 posters in the collection, spanning both ski and summer resorts and classic cars. Two of the most recent editions include a poster of supercars (a Lamborghini Aventador and a Porsche Spyder

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Branagh. More than 83 years after Agatha Christie first published the detective novel, the story and the illustrious train continue to fuel the imagination – and the new Pullman Editions poster looks set to keep the intrigue alive a little longer still. 94 Pimlico Road, 020 7730 0547, pullmaneditions.com

among others) in Knightsbridge, and another of a Maserati with the Italian Riviera in the background (pictured, right). Meanwhile, the current bestsellers include the Val d’Isère Off-Piste Skier and L’Été sur la Côte d’Azur, depicting a 1959 Ferrari 250 GT California Spider on a quayside in the South of France (above, right). Pullman Editions caters for private commissions, too. “One of Charles Avalon’s specialities is cars and we get a lot of requests from customers who want their car depicted in an artwork,” says Georgina. “We’re also creating a wedding poster this summer for a couple who want an Art Deco interpretation of their big day.” Also in the pipeline is a poster for the new film release of Murder on the Orient Express, directed by Kenneth

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“I Cave of

have always tried to hide my efforts, and wished my works to have the light joyousness of springtime, which never lets anyone suspect the labours it cost me,” Henri Matisse once said. It’s a typical comment from an artist who invariably shunned the limelight. With his gold-rimmed spectacles and three-piece suits, he was always an unlikely candidate for celebrity. Initially training as a legal clerk, he only turned to art when, recovering from appendicitis, someone gave him a box of paints. He was only 21. Yet by the early 20th century he was one of a select group of artists that dominated the Parisian avant-garde. If the artist himself was never happier than when confined to his studio, his work was brimful with the light of the outdoors, of the Mediterranean and beyond. The Royal Academy’s Matisse in the Studio exhibition examines how crucial Eastern and so-called primitive art was to his creativity. The show features objects drawn from his wideranging personal collection that enabled him to gain ideas from Buddhist statues from Thailand; masks, textiles and furnishings from Africa; abstract Chinese calligraphic patterns; and Islamic tiles and textiles. Matisse was born in France’s most northerly tip in chilly, grey Le CateauCambresis, on the Belgian border. Here, his inspiration was fertilised by the sunshine and colour of southern Europe. Despite financial hardship, when he first moved to Paris he began to visit second-hand shops where he picked up fragments of tapestry and faience pottery. Only late in life, however, did he become a serious collector, sourcing from European art dealers and an assortment of far-flung merchants and market places in Algeria and Morocco. The first major step in that direction occurred in 1906, when he bought a small seated Congolese figurine from a Parisian dealer. His discovery of Islamic art at an exhibition in Munich inspired a trip to visit Andalusian mosques. A visit to Morocco soon followed, and the Moorish and Persian emphasis on patterns and strong but subtle colours became a growing influence, seen in works such as The Moorish Screen.

wonders A new exhibition at the Royal Academy reveals Henri Matisse as a serious international collector, says Jack Watkins

Matisse took his lead from nature, seeking inspiration from the world beyond the studio


ART

When Matisse moved to Nice, he recreated images of Islamic harems through his famous feminine images such as Yellow Odalisque, putting his French models in Oriental costume, and setting them against backdrops of Eastern fabrics, screens, carpets and furnishings. Some criticised Matisse for the lack of confrontation in his art. The painter explained that he “dreamt of an art of balance and purity and serenity, devoid of troubling or depressing subject matter… a mental soother… like a good armchair”. Yet it would be wrong to say that he didn’t conform to the romantic image of the painter who suffers for his art. Once describing a disturbing picture, with a likely large degree of self-reference, he called the artistic type “an unhappy creature tormented day and night. He relieves himself of his passion in his pictures, but also in spite of himself, on the people round him. That is what normal people never understand. They want to enjoy the artist’s products – as one might enjoy cow’s milk – but they can’t put up with the inconvenience, the mud and the flies.” Collecting was a two-way dialogue for Matisse. He didn’t just acquire objects and use them as inspiration. Sometimes he purchased them simply because they reminded him of works he’d already done, such as the medieval head of an apostle, which bore a resemblance to his Self-portrait of 1906. The portrait in its turn had been partly shaped by his new interest in African sculpture. A photograph from 1951 shows Matisse working on one of his cut-outs under a Chinese calligraphy panel at a hotel in Nice. It was around this time that he remarked: “I have worked all my life before the same objects. The object is an actor. A good actor can have a part in ten different plays; an object can play a role in ten different pictures.” When he died three years later, aged 84, he left behind a huge trove of textiles, glassware, metalwork, ceramics and figurines. It was this he described as “my working library”. While these objects were hardly of material value, they were precious to Matisse. This exhibition reveals how they remained a source of inspiration until the very last years of a full and productive life.

“I have worked all my life before the same objects. The object is an actor”

clockwise from top left: Henri Cartier-Bresson, Vence, February 1944, French painter Henri Matisse at his Home, Villa ‘Le Rêve’ ©Henri Cartier-Bresson/Magnum Photos; Henri Matisse, The Moorish Screen, 1921, ©Philadelphia Museum of Art/Art Resource, NY; Haiti, North Africa, late 19th-early 20th century, Former collection of Henri Matisse, ©François Fernandez, Nice; Coffee Pot, France, early 19th Century, ©François Fernandez, Nice; Henri Matisse, Still Life with Shell, 1940, ©Private collection, ©Succession H. Matisse/DACS 2017; Henri Matisse, Safrano Roses at the Window, 1925, ©Private collection, ©Succession H. Matisse/DACS 2017; Vase, Andalusia, Spain, early 20th century, ©François Fernadez, Nice

5 August – 12 November, Burlington House, Piccadilly, W1J, royalacademy.org.uk

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image credit: Jamie Ferguson

Riviera resort

In celebration of its 40th anniversary, Drake’s is looking back through the archive to bring the best of its rich design heritage to the summer collection. Aiming to create pieces that can look like workwear but feel more like leisure (including its most recent suits), they embody a classic yet relaxed lifestyle in bold nautical shades and on-trend earthy tones. Feeling daring? Style an Oxford shirt beneath a simple Arpenteur linen smock for a touch of the Italian Riviera. From £15, 3 Clifford Street, W1S, drakes.com

FASHION


FASHION

Ramble on Embrace the traveller’s lifestyle this season with Private White V.C.’s line of ‘informal luxury’, a look that is cool and comfortable but ensures that you are always well-dressed. Creative director Nick Ashley presents a range of accessories, chino pants, and loose fitting shirts. With clean cuts and earthy tones, the collection channels a nomadic energy, and durable Ventile cottons make these pieces ideal for exploring the great outdoors. From £10, 73 Duke Street, WIK, privatewhitevc.com

Scent of the season Inspired by the Royal Court of Versailles, Parfums de Marly’s Layton has fruity top notes, woody and spicy base notes, and a hint of caramelised coffee – the perfect transition from summer to autumn. £185, pmarly.com, exclusively at Harrods

Classic with a twist

True blue Richard Anderson is introducing his first line of jeans. After a long search for authentic fabric, he stumbled across a Japanese denim factory that still weaves using a 1920s loom. Anderson is now combining these artisanal techniques with custom tailoring to bring selvedge denim to Savile Row. £450, 13 Savile Row, W1S, richardandersonltd.com

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Tony Gaziano and Dean Girling deliver a fresh spin on their traditional shoe with the new London boot, which embodies both their principles of design and comfort, and more importantly, your personal flare. From an array of classic and eccentric skins to choose from, to a customisable strap, it certainly kicks made-to-order service up a notch. £1,650, 39 Savile Row, W1S, gazianogirling.com

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Into the

WILD

Photographer ALEXANDER BEER

/

S t y l i sT G ra h a m C r u z


Set out on safari in understated khaki camouflage and pops of colour with vibrant animal print scarves

jacket, £2,100, Preen By Thornton Bregazzi, preenbythorntonbregazzi.com; gilet, £530, Paul Smith, paulsmith.co.uk; skirt, poa, Roksanda, roksanda.com; shoes, £900, Giuseppe Zanotti, giuseppezanottidesign.com; Lock bracelet, £9,513 and braided bracelet, £18,516, both Shamballa Jewels, frostoflondon.co.uk; necklace, £399, Pyrrha, Pyrrha.com


THIS PAGE Top, £540, David Koma, davidkoma.co.uk; chinos, POa, Dsquared2, dsquared2.com; SHOES, £530, Aquazurra, aquazzura.com; jacket (on waist), £699, Tiger of Sweden, tigerofsweden.com; belt, £275, Etro, etro.com; SHOULDER bag, £315, Ettinger, ettinger.co.uk; Saddle Bag, £450, Aspinal of London, aspinaloflondon.com; Leopard print scarf, £285, Begg & Co, beggandcompany.com; Zebra print scarf, £30, Lola Rose, lolarose.co.uk; Cheetah print scarf (on head), £99, Marc Cain, marc-cain.com; Leg harness, stylist’s own OPPOSITE PAGE shirt, £235, Vince, vince.com; vest, £190, Theory, theory.com; trousers, £630, Marni, marni.com; shoes, £970, Giuseppe Zanotti, as before; Bracelet, £50,470, Shamballa Jewels, as before; cuff, POA, DAKS, daks.com; Sunglasses, £300, Belstaff, belstaff.co.uk; necklace, £39, Adore Jewelry, adorejewelry.com


THIS PAGE Jacket, £1,695 and Boots, £495, both Bally, bally.com; shirt, £115, Brooks Brothers, brooksbrothers.com; trousers, £232, Pinko, pinko.com; Belt, £295, Etro, as before; swan talisman, £1,347, Pyrrha, as before; Gloves (in pocket), £49, Dents, dents.co.uk; socks, £22, Falke, falke.com OPPOSITE PAGE shirt, £395 and belt, £620, both Etro, as before; top, £400, Boss, hugoboss.com; skirt, £220, Self Portrait, self-portrait-studio.com; shoes, £845, Aquazurra, aquazzura.com; hat, £265, Lock & Co, lockhatters.co.uk; necklace (on wrist), £115, Lola Rose, as before; earrings, £47, Adore Jewelry, as before


THIS PAGE jacket, £325, Theory, as before; shirt, £220, Monographie, harrods.com; skirt, £1,705, Andrew GN, matchesfashion.com; hat, £195, Mimi Holliday, mimiholliday.com; belt, £595, Agnona, harrods.com; shoes, £295, DAKS, as before; Scarf (on hat), £250, James Purdey & Sons, as before; cuffs, POa, DAKS, as before; earrings, £44, Adore Jewelry, as before OPPOSITE PAGE Dress, £2,045, Ralph Lauren, ralphlauren.co.uk; vest, £100, Theory, as before; shirt (on waist), £259, DAKS, as before; hat, £265, Lock & Co, as before; shoes, £650, Jimmy Choo, jimmychoo.com; Glasses, £125, Stella McCartney, matchesfashion.com; Bracelet, £19,600, Shamballa Jewels, as before; bangle, £149.70, Pyrrha, as before; Bangle, £57, Adore Jewelry, as before Hair and make-up Amori Birch model Lise Bjorgen Olsen at IMG Fashion Assistant Sophie Whitemore location Shot on location in Namibia. With thanks to luxury safari expedition company Barclay Stenner, barclaystenner.com, and Okonjima Villa, okonjima.com


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lip on a pair of oversized sunglasses with reflective lime lenses and exotic fruit glittering high above the brows, and heads will turn. Just one of these three elements would do the trick. Dolce & Gabbana pulled out all the stops with this particular summertime creation (pictured). The combination of shape and colour – a bold frame as well as an interesting lens – serves a double statement hit, and is a look that independent designers, fashion houses and manufacturing titans are adopting alike. “People like to say they hide behind sunglasses, but I don’t think so,” says independent eyewear designer


FEATURE

“Bold

Tom Davies. “Sunglasses bring symmetrical lines to the face – and beauty is symmetry. That’s why people tend to like wearing sunglasses in general, and they’ve become much more of an adventurous fashion item.” Simon Jablon, CEO and creative director of Linda Farrow, agrees: “Bold has become the new classic.” One catalyst for this year’s profusion of increasingly exciting sunglasses has been fashion houses taking ownership of their eyewear lines – previously licensed to groups such as Safilo or Luxottica – and promoting them on the catwalks, says Davies. One of the biggest players is now luxury goods holding company Kering, which introduced its eyewear division in 2014. It owns Gucci, which showed its first in-house collection last October (although production will remain with its former licensee, Safilo, until 2020). The most arresting styles start with unusual shapes. Another brand within Kering’s stable is Boucheron, which will launch a striking yellow and red gold-plated owl frame this autumn (pictured fifth page, bottom). The avian eye shape will be a limited edition of 300, with double-shaded, antireflective and oleophobic lenses, meaning they are less prone to smudges. Christopher Kane, also under Kering and taking inspiration from nature, has a butterfly with gold, rose or blue nylon lenses (pictured fifth page, top). They are lightweight and durable, with a scratchresistant coating set in a metal surround and a large jewel on each temple. Alexander McQueen, meanwhile, has fashioned a cutaway lens edge that, in lilac and with a Swarovskistudded diagonal black bar, mixes retro nostalgia and rock ’n’ roll. At Safilo’s Marc Jacobs, horizontal heart-shaped frames are encircled by a string twist of metal; on other styles a thread runs across a centimetre from the top, skimming the sightline. “Sunglasses aren’t perceived as just a tool anymore, but as a proper fashion item,” says Seamus Healy, head of product and planning at David Clulow. “There is a new appetite for eye-catching styles that have the power to completely change an outfit. In the current mood where ‘more is more’, it’s easy to see why lots of sunglasses feature both bold frames and bold lenses.”

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has become the

new

classic” Cutler and Gross is independently owned and has its own factory in the Dolomites. Here, 41 craftspeople manage individual production stages for each model, from barrelling to hinges and polishing. Each frame takes four to six weeks to make by hand. The factory also experiments with new materials and techniques – including a frame cut from a single sheet of metal for a pair of new round, bridged sunglasses with red lenses and acetate rims. “We treat our metal frames as we treat our acetate, cutting the metal from plates rather than using soldering techniques,” says design director Marie Wilkinson. “You get unusual sculptural effects and interesting surfaces instead.” The temples are made by hand and cylindrical; trickier to create than most, which are flat. “These have a really strong impact. They’re reassuringly bold,” she continues.

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FEATURE

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“People want to express themselves. It’s more about the whole look, and accessories being as important – if not more important – than clothing. A pair of sunglasses is much more easily spotted than a new handbag or shoes. When you first meet someone you don’t look at their feet... you look at their eyes.” Aesthetic appeal aside, fun lenses boast different qualities depending on their colour. “Tints can impact the performance of athletes, spectators and outdoor lovers,” says Tessa Forde, optometrist at David Clulow on Wigmore Street. Grey solid tints give a natural colour perception and are well-suited for driving, golf, running, cycling and most outdoor activities. Brown or amber tints filter blue light and are best for brightening vision on cloudy days. “They are especially good for use against grass and sky, so best for fishing, golf, hunting, cycling and watersports,” adds Forde. This season, soft, faded lenses rule the roost in pastel colours – the kind that complete a look

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beneath a wide-brimmed hat. There’s more than a touch of the Italian Riviera in Linda Farrow’s next collection, featuring delicate twisted ribbon frames in rose, yellow and white gold metal, as well as lighter lens colours (pictured bottom left). One pair in particular, with a scalloped ravioli-style rim, is made using titanium moulding and nylon lenses. They can also come with the company’s signature precious plated lenses – titanium covered in 18- to 22-carat gold, rose gold or platinum, then sealed into a mirrored coating. Trends are moving fast, says Davies, and have been lens-led for the past few years. He leans towards darker colours and only uses Zeiss lenses (these reduce glare, increase contrast and protect eyes while driving, with clear vision up to the very edge of the lens). Davies expects graduated tints to be the next trend, but in stronger colours – both fashionable and safer for the eyes. “The reason is that tinted lenses

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look great but aren’t much use as a sunglass,” he explains, considering everyday use. “They can cut out UV but aren’t very comfortable.” Graduated tints fade to a lighter shade at the bottom of the lens, as seen in another new pair from Dolce & Gabbana. Surrounded by a ring of Swarovski crystals and tiny embossed beads, its lenses come in grey, pink or blue gradients (pictured previous page, top left). “Graduated tints are ideal for reading in the garden or on the beach,” says Forde, “especially if you are off to somewhere sunny for your holidays.” Reflective mirrored lenses continue to enjoy a day in the sun – and offer extra protection against it – this season at three Luxottica-licensed brands. Prada’s latest rim-less Cinéma model is angular with slightly curved mirrored lenses and

pastel acetate temple tips (pictured previous page, right). “These come from a collection that stands out for its blend of sophisticated elegance and avantgarde design,” says Healy. “It’s a melting pot of vintage inspirations and conceptual structures, both modern and futuristic.” At Ray-Ban, mirrored lenses come with a maple, walnut or cherry frame (pictured second page), and elsewhere with multi-coloured gradients that are more psychedelic than 21st-century cool. “Colourful acetates are also quintessential Alain Mikli,” adds Healy. “Every year it develops several new colours and patterns inspired by a cultural exchange with the art and fashion worlds.” This year, the French-Armenian designer draws on the Memphis Group movement with a 1980s round pale pink or blue reflective lens, and double acetate eyebrows decorated in stripes and zigzags.


FEATURE

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Exuberant prints take sunglasses another step further. Saint Laurent brings molten lava to life with mirror oil rainbow lenses; Fendi emblazons its logo on coral disks; Dior has added a trio of irregular stripes to its equally irregular frame by way of a multi-layer coating (pictured above). This allows up to 12 different layers on the same lens, finished by intense polishing to make the designs shine through. In autumn, Pomellato will introduce a doublebridged pair with a graphic floral pattern in gold or electric pink and black (pictured below). Far from the original intent of dark aviators, they are bright and funky, with anti-reflective lenses and a layered mirror-coating.

Lenses can be decorated using screen printing with a fabric mesh in a similar way to T-shirts. A thick light-reactive substance is applied that makes holes in the original coating, then a layer of paint is pressed into the ‘holes’. Other techniques include hand tinting – dipping normal lenses into tints, turning them into a sunglass – or washing away designs from a grey or brown lens that has been mirrored, revealing its original colour. These styles may be less hard-wearing than plain or reflective lenses, but all that is left is to strike a pose.

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65


FASHION

Bright& Beautiful

Light, fun, and easy to wear, Agnona’s cruise collection is fresh and unexpected. Creative director Simon Holloway makes a statement with mink cardigans, knit dresses and cashmere sweaters in vibrant, contrasting shades. The Italian brand’s designs are always breezy and beautiful with a modern spin, but this time, it is the innovative colours and prints that will create a striking presence when you walk into a room. From £100, 124 New Bond Street, W1S, agnona.com

FIeld Day Holland Cooper channels a traditional equestrian look, perfect for pairing with Fairfax & Favor’s effortlessly classy footwear this game season. We’ll be wearing the neat Knightsbridge blazer (£499) with these smart Imperial Explorer boots (£375). hollandcooper.com; fairfaxandfavor.com

Wrapped up

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An admiration for art meets a love for fashion with Helen Moore’s new collection of handrolled silk scarves. The colourful accessories are lifesize replicas of seven original paintings by the fine artist (and Helen’s husband) Stanley Moore. £200, helenmoore.com

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INTERIORS One Stepevi ahead Despite celebrating its centenary, Stepevi is still en vogue: you may recognise the Turkish homeware brand from The Athenaeum Hotel bar or the former Céline store on Bruton Street. Its shiny new Sparkle collection is woven using superior wool, silk and metallic lurex to create an eye-catching shimmer. Available in seven styles or custom designs. From £1,950 (£475 per sq m), stepevi.com

Sparkle VI rug in wool, viscose, silk, lurex, £5,300 for 170 x 240cm or £1,300 per sq m


INTERIORS

Image courtesy of Adrien Dirand and Owenscorp

Organic chaos T h e Savage r o s e C and le, ani ne b i ng’ s f i rst ventur e i nto Fr agr ance and h omewar e, is a r o ma nt ic ble nd o f bulga r ia n r o s e a nd wh ite r o s e f inis h e d wit h s e ns ua l no te s o f mus k a nd bla ck p e ppe r . £48, A nine bing.co m

IF YOU’VE EVER visited Rick Owens’ concrete-clad London flagship on South Audley Street, you’ll agree that the avantgarde designer’s furniture collection isn’t likely to be particularly mainstream. Publisher Rizzoli has released the first book to document his interior designs and give an insight into his creative vision. Rick Owens: Furniture, written by Owens himself, is an ode to his wife, muse and business partner Michèle Lamy, who he affectionately refers to as ‘hun’ throughout. While Owens conceives the stark, almost prehistoric pieces (made primarily from plywood, concrete, marble, leather, fur and antlers), Lamy is the one who helps make them into a desirable reality. £50, published by Rizzoli New York, rizzoliusa.com

Gold Plated It’s more than likely you’ve been served dinner at an upmarket restaurant on J.L. Coquet’s hemisphere crockery: a white porcelain collection that has a circular engraved pattern reminiscent of the rings on a tree trunk. The French heritage brand has now enlisted Achille Salvagni to put his own spin on its dinnerware, which he does by adding golden craters and what looks like a night sky sprinkled with stardust. From £62, jlcoquet.com

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Rooted in design Barn in the City is a collaboration between interior designer Nancy Torreele and furniture expert Martijn van Rijn. The Dutch company reclaims ancient pieces of wood and transforms them into characterful, contemporary pieces using industrial metal frames and clean-edged columns of marble. A new generation of rustic. From €3,083, barninthecity.com

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Say it

with flowers

Drop your secateurs. Hold off on the pruning. Emma Love unearths the professionals bringing floral trends to a vase near you


INTERIORS

W

hile the pot plant had its day in the 1970s – think large monsteria perched next to lurid orange wallpaper – and plastic foliage peaked in the 1990s, it is fresh-cut flowers that have never gone out of fashion. London remains wild for blooms. This month Petersham Nurseries opens in Covent Garden with a homeware and garden shop, wine cellar, delicatessen and florist (two restaurants, a bar and a courtyard will follow later in the autumn), selling everything from British posies to dinner party bouquets in handblown glass vases. The summer exhibition at Notting Hill’s Flow Gallery, Plant Life: Pots for Plants (until 19 August), showcases vessels by a series of makers who were inspired by specific sprigs. And across London, a handful of top florists are pushing the creative boundaries with what they offer. Take Nikki Pierce, founder of Petal & Grace, who feeds a growing trend for wild and whimsical arrangements. “My style is loose and natural and very different to what a lot of florists are doing right now,” says Pierce, who studied history of art before launching her Kensal Rise floral studio three years ago. “The 17th-century Dutch master painters are a constant source of inspiration. I like to

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highlight a flower or piece of foliage if it has an interesting bend or a beautiful back.” Last year, Pierce was commissioned by Gazelli House, the South Kensington cult spa and members’ club, to make a 1.5-metre tall arrangement from pampas grasses and ethically sourced white peacock feathers. Since then, similar installations have been sought after by her clients to use as an impressive focal point on mantelpieces at home.

There is a growing trend for wild and whimsical arrangements This shift towards extravagance and opulence can be found elsewhere. Long established florist Pulbrook and Gould offers a ‘by appointment’ design service from its Battersea showroom (the main shop is in on South Audley Street). “Many of our clients travel a lot and to keep fresh flowers is expensive,” explains artistic director Harald Altmaier. “We go in and dress their houses, perhaps with silk flowers, which have become much more popular over the past few years, or large displays of textured arrangements: sculptural twisted goat horns in Italian leather containers, a bowl of chilli peppers or a bundle of gold leaf bamboo that makes a statement in the entrance hall. It makes the house feel loved and uplifted.”

THANKS A BUNCH

Flowerbx Pink Sweet Avalanche Roses, £50, flowerbx.com

Pa u l T h o m a s Flowers The Burlington, £45, Arch 83 Queens Circus, SW11, paulthomasflowers.co.uk

Pulbrook and Gould All Whites, £100, at Thomas Goode, 19 South Audley Street, W1K and 10 Ingate Place, SW8, pulbrookandgould.co.uk

Wild Things Dusk to Dawn, £95, 47 Davies Street, W1K, wildthingsflowers.co.uk

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INTERIORS

‘Single varietal bunches’ are also the mainstay of Flowerbx, the online flower delivery service that revolutionised the industry when it launched in 2015. “After 19 years of working for Tom Ford, I found that all the fashionable people, from Karl Lagerfeld to London’s passion for blooms has led some companies to dedicate bouquets to specific areas. Both Wild Things and Paul Thomas Flowers (the latter supplies the likes of The Ritz London, Sotheby’s and Fortnum & Mason), for example, have Mayfair collections. Paul Thomas has a range of hand-tied bouquets named after a street or landmark: The Albany, for instance, is a classic combination that includes scented freesias, dahlias and summer phlox; while The Burlington is an all-pink arrangement of hydrangeas, roses and lisianthus. This is part of another growing trend for arrangements with only one type of flower. “I tend to use lots of the same sort of flower, such as a single mass of peonies,” says Ellie Hartley, who has been the resident florist at Brown’s Hotel since 2010. Last year, she opened her eponymous shop on Dover Street. “All flowers have a different life span so it makes sense to create bouquets where they all live for roughly the same amount of time.”

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“I use lots of the same sort of flower, such as a single mass of peonies” Miuccia Prada, were sending single stem bunches of flowers,” recalls co-founder Whitney Bromberg Hawkings, who sources all the flowers from auctions in Holland. “Also, when I was buying flowers for my own house, I was looking for stems that I could arrange myself, rather than a traditional bouquet stuffed with filler.” So whether you prefer a handful of hydrangeas or a vase of long grass, this season boasts a bloom to suit every taste.

From top: petal & grace; pulbrook and gould; wild things; ellie hartley

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A LIFETIME SPENT FINDING BEAUTY IN THE DETAIL A LIFETIME SPENT FINDING BEAUTY IN THE DETAIL Showroom: 1 Western Avenue, London, W3 0BZ. 020 8993 4415 - info@thesofaandchair.co.uk www.thesofaandchair.co.uk

Showroom: 1 Western Avenue, London, W3 0BZ. 020 8993 4415 - info@thesofaandchair.co.uk www.thesofaandchair.co.uk


sleeping beauty mix & match Chanel’s new Ombre Première Eyes Collection comprises 24 eyeshadows in matte, satin and metallic – designed to be combined and layered. Complete the look by grooming eyebrows with Le Gel Sourcils – jellified water on a mascaralike wand, which holds brows for up to eight hours. From £18, chanel.com The new Instant Full Cover Concealer from Bobbi Brown suggests beauty sleep is a thing of the past, promising a bright-eyed and bushy-tailed look in one simple swipe of a brush. A rare Indian tree extract helps plump up and smooth out those bags, while the non-drying formula irons out wrinkles by balancing the skin’s natural moisture levels. The 15 shades – from porcelain to chestnut – coordinate with the brand’s foundations, so matching is made easy. £23 each, bobbibrown.co.uk

fruit cocktail Papaya and pineapple extract enzymes and a dash of caviar lime in the newest addition to Dr Harold Lancer’s skincare line help remove dead skin cells and leave you glowing. £90, spacenk.com

hydration hit Eschew the needle as Filorga presents its cosmetic medicine expertise in a handy tub with this new moisturiser. £45, feelunique.com

heavy metal Highlighting and bronzing are key in summer beauty collections, and the Bord De Plage Palette by Nars has it all in one. Highlighters are water-activated, to create a smudged smouldering effect, and shades range from pearl to deep brown. Eye shadows in stick form also come in three new complementary tones. From £21, narscosmetics.co.uk


health & beauty

ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF THE LANDMARK LONDON

SPA R EVIE W

Lady of the land Kari Colmans is treated like a queen for the day with a tailored, top-to-toe pregnancy treatment at the newly refurbished spa at The Landmark London

T

he British summertime can be temperamental at the best of times, meaning it feels much more like July once I’m inside The Landmark London hotel’s striking Winter Garden restaurant than it does outside, where the heavens have just opened. Guests are enjoying afternoon tea amid the palm trees and serene dappled light of the grand indooroutdoor eating area, while I wring out my statement sleeves, now so drenched they’re leaving a puddle behind me, and make my way to the hotel’s basement where the newly refurbished spa awaits. In partnership with the under-theradar skincare house Germaine de Capuccini, the spa offers a range of therapies and wellbeing experiences from across the world. I’m here to try one of the two yummy mummy treatments on offer. Next Arrival is specifically tailored for mothers-to-be, so I’ve nothing to worry about in terms of pushing the wrong buttons.

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The treatment is sublime, combining massage movements with aromatic oil from the African Baobab tree, which is safe to use in pregnancy after the first trimester and creates a protective and hydrating experience. During the next 50 minutes my therapist combines deep all-over exfoliation with light and gentle touch for the ultimate relaxation. Next, patawa oils are applied with soothing motions (although note – this is not firm enough to be described as a massage), before a cooling gel is smothered onto my newly acquired cankles.

Treatment over, I head to the softly lit relaxation room for a cup of fragrant herbal tea and some alone time with my Kindle. In addition to the Next Arrival, the spa also offers a tailored Time for Mum session, which combines hot stone massage with exfoliation, using specific oils to target stretch marks acquired during pregnancy. As well as an extensive range of treatments for both women and men, the spa’s new look facilities include a state-of-the-art gym and one of the capital’s few chlorine-free indoor swimming pools. Add to this the mosaic tiled steam room, sanarium (like a sauna, but less intense) and aromatherapy experience showers, and an afternoon of rest and relaxation is on the cards – just what the midwife ordered. Next Arrival, £95 for 50 minutes, The Landmark Spa & Health Club, 222 Marylebone Road, NW1, landmarklondon.co.uk

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beau ty brie f

Romilly Wilde The natural skincare brand’s founder Susie Willis on beauty secrets, scents and shopping What do you love most about your job? Working with talented artists including perfumers and scientists, as well as knowing that I have potentially turned people’s heads towards natural skincare.

What are your beauty secrets? I love layering, mixing, and trusting my instinct on how to use products. Adding my Face Oil to the Serum Cleanser and then leaving it on as a mask floods my skin with nutrients and energy.

What are some common skincare mistakes? Over-exfoliating, and feeling the need to use a hundred different products. Less is more.

What do you tend to avoid when it comes to your skincare routine? If a product is exposed to the environment (i.e. an open pot), then it has to be treated with preservatives and synthetic materials, so I avoid anything that isn’t in an airless pump.

Should summer skin be treated differently to winter skin? You need to use a higher SPF in the summer, but I recommend you use one all year round. Your body should be helping to regulate your skin too. Milk is more hydrating than water, and nut milks are even better for your skin.

What are your go-to stores in Marylebone? Bella Freud, Daylesford for great

breakfasts, Cire Trudon for gorgeous candles, The Providores for amazing New Zealandinspired dishes, Bimba y Lola for colourful, quirky fashion, and The Conran Shop for everything else.

What are your favourite scent notes? Sandalwood, juniper berry, tuberose, cardamom, and orange blossom.

What’s next for Romilly Wilde?

The last great restaurant you ate at was… The Ivy Cafe The last thing you bought and loved was… a pair of sneakers from Ash What other city would you live in and why? Florence, for the art, the food and the Tuscan hills Last good book you read? The Secret Garden! My mother found my original copy from my godmother Dream travel destinations? Cuba and Mexico

We are going to be launching two new skincare products, Night Duty and Eye Believe, together with a scented candle called Frida that has saffron, cardamom and sandalwood notes.

How does your organic food background influence you? Understanding the healing power of natural plants, whether they be grains for oils, plants, seeds or flowers, is the same for food or skin nutrition, it’s just applied using different methods and technology. Precious plants are the DNA of Romilly Wilde. We are always discovering new ways to harness them, so we can continue creating beauty from nature. romillywilde.com

“Plants are the DNA of Romilly Wilde. We are always discovering new ways to harness them” from top to bottom: active boost face oil, £75; advanced supercell serum, £110; light+Energy serum cleanser, £54; idle eau de parfum, £90


HEALTH & BEAUTY

on your (smart) bike former GB Olympic athlete Tim Benjamin has opened indoor cycling studio One 10 in Marylebone. Riders can choose from a more performance-based or party-atmosphere class at the pay-as-youride venue, where the high-tech bikes recognise users, display individual profiles, and track power, calories burned and heart rate to fuel in-class competition. 16 Baker Street, W1U, one10cycle.com

fit kit

hocus pocus Potion London’s food supplements are tailored to specific beauty, health and fitness concerns, from bone strength to nutrition. The Hyaluronic Complex (pictured) targets ageing and aims to smooth wrinkles and hydrate skin by helping cells retain water. From £25, potionlondon.com

fitness friend

Whistles ticks all the boxes when it comes to activewear, and the S/S17 collection of 17 pieces focuses on functional mix and match ensembles in flattering stretch fabrics. Throw on the Bardot off-the-shoulder sweatshirt after a work-out to finish the studio-to-street look. From £35, whistles.com

New fitness app RISETODAY is subscription-free and aims to help users connect with and book local fitness sessions and services, all of which can be filtered by price, distance or activity. risetoday.co

muscle magic

a stan smith special Contemporary Danish textile supplier Kvadrat has teamed up with adidas Originals to give the classic Stan Smith style a Copenhagen-inspired makeover. The three navy, pink and core black shades come in Kvadrat’s ‘Squares’ fabric, with a contrasting leather heel patch. £89.95, adidas.co.uk

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Pregnancy, exercise and the menopause can all result in weakened pelvic floor muscles, but Innovo® offers a non-invasive, at-home method to restore bladder control. Removing the need for hours of tiring exercises, the wearable device is remote-controlled and emits targeted impulses to stimulate and strengthen muscles. £249, restorethefloor.com

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FOOD

l i e a r t u

k t c l o u c C

e s ink glob r d to the e ss id gu acro w ne rom f A

“The Bamboo cocktail has achieved a small measure of fame for being the first cocktail to be invented in Japan, but the dry vermouth is French, the sherry Spanish and its inventor, bartender Louis Eppinger, German.�


food & drink

between the sheets

oa x aca o l d fa s h i o n e d

Jerusalem, Israel

Oaxaca, Mexico

Ingredients

METHOD

Ingredients

METHOD

22ml cognac 22ml gin 22ml curaçao or triple sec 22ml lemon juice Lemon peel

Put all the ingredients in a cocktail shaker. Add ice and shake thoroughly to chill. Double strain into a chilled coupe glass. Garnish with a twist of lemon peel.

60ml añejo mezcal 5ml agave nectar 2 dashes of chocolate mole bitters Orange peel

Place the ingredients in a mixing glass. Add ice and stir to chill. Strain into an Old Fashioned glass and top with fresh ice. Garnish with a twist of orange peel.

bamboo Yokohama, Japan Ingredients

METHOD

45ml fino or manzanilla sherry 45ml dry vermouth 5ml simple syrup or orange curaçao (optional) 1 dash orange bitters 1 dash aromatic bitters Lemon peel

Stir all of the ingredients with ice in a mixing glass until chilled. Strain into a chilled coupe glass. Garnish with a twist of lemon peel.

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Whether you’re partial to Caribbean rum or Spanish sherry, sip your way across the globe with the help of new book Around The World in 80 Cocktails, which charts how the art of mixing drinks has evolved since the 19th century. As well as introducing exotic liquors, it includes handy tips for making your own tipples. Around the World in 80 Cocktails by Chad Parkhill, with illustrations by Alice Oehr, published by Hardie Grant, £12.99, amazon.co.uk

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food & drink

family fortunes Tombo, run by a family trio (mother Manami and brothers Louis and Leo Sloley) has chosen Fitzrovia for its third site. Enjoy poke dishes served in Japanese bowls, followed by matcha ice creams and teas grown on the foothills of Mount Fuji. 4 Windmill Street, W1T, tombopoke.com

Sunday best

HISTORY REPEATS ITSELF It’s been 150 years since Kusmi Tea founder Pavel Kousmichoff opened his first tea house in Saint Petersburg. To celebrate the anniversary this summer, the brand has reimagined the vintage ‘ballotin’ packaging for six different blends, including Troika – a fresh and citrusy mix of black teas with bergamot, orange and mandarin. From £9, 15 Marylebone High Street, W1U, int.kusmitea.com

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Image credit: Etienne Gilfillan

a polished picnic

walking on water

Patricia Michelson, founder of cheese room and deli La Fromagerie, has put together a Summer Box hamper to guarantee picnic perfection. Sit down to Ticklemore goat’s cheese from Devon, P. Louis Martin NV Brut champagne, roasted marcona almonds and caviar. £245, 2-6 Moxon Street, W1U, lafromagerie.co.uk

Lockhouse has opened a pop-up botanical bar in Merchant Square’s floating park on the Paddington Basin this summer. Head down on Thursdays and Fridays from 12-9pm, for a Lavender & Lovage Sour or a Summer Rhubarb Collins, and blame any wobbly walking on the canal location. Until 19 August, Merchant Square, W2 lockhouselondon.co.uk

The new summer programme at Italian eatery Bernardi’s means guests can enjoy brunch with a musical interlude thanks to resident DJS, while relaxing on the lounge-style seating of the newly redesigned restaurant. By night, seasonal gin and tonics come with thyme, orange and pink pepper. Sundays until September, 62 Seymour Street, W1H, bernardis.co.uk

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food & drink

ALL IMAGES ©James Shearer

R estau r a n t R e vie w

Meraki W O R D S : m e l i ss a e m e rso n

T

he Waney family has been on the London restaurant scene for around 15 years, during which time they have opened the likes of Zuma, Roka, Coya and Oblix at The Shard, as well as acquired and renovated The Arts Club. With a string of restaurants that are on the lips of most Londoners, expectations are high as I arrive at the latest addition to its portfolio in Fitzrovia – Greek restaurant and bar, Meraki. We are greeted by a lithe receptionist at the front desk, dressed in a sleek full-length jumpsuit – the creation of Athens-based designer Yvonne Bosnjak – who shows us to a table with stylish tan leather chairs by the open patio doors. It is the perfect set-up for a warm evening. Meraki clearly isn’t expecting a carb-loving crowd; a starter of tzatziki with fresh strands of cucumber is accompanied by a somewhat meagre helping of four pitta chips. I resemble Oliver Twist as I hold up our empty bowl for more. Undeterred, we continue to order from the meze section, balancing the simpler Florina peppers with garlic cream and puffed polenta crackers with a richer dish of Trahana – a type of grain often used in porridge or soup – cooked with spinach, and topped with an impressively orange egg yolk. A

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plate of sizeable prawns in a kataifi pastry shell that resembles Shredded Wheat, follows and is similarly well presented. Native ingredients are key to Greek chef Dimitri Siamanis’ menu, which includes cheeses from Naxos and Crete, and hilopites (a traditional egg pasta) from Trikala. The commitment to locally sourced produce extends to the drinks menu; I’m now a convert to Greek fizz, and the cocktails – based on the elements of earth, air, fire and water – come infused with marjoram and coastal kritamo. There are meat and fish meze options too, including smoked eel and meatballs, but we save ourselves for the grill section of the menu and order succulent baby chicken with lemon and oregano and chargrilled lamb cutlets, marinated with rosemary. The British potato lover in me is gratified by the side of patates with wild oregano, which are better seasoned and crispier than any I’ve had with a Sunday roast of late. A chocolate and hazelnut dessert with sour cherry sorbet – my new favourite flavour – wraps up the evening. Meraki certainly isn’t your average taverna, and at times the setting does seem a little formal for the rustic Greek fare, but there’s no doubting the authenticity of the flavours – just remember to ask for extra pitta.

Native ingredients are key to Greek chef Dimitri Siamanis’ menu, which includes cheeses from Naxos and Crete

80-82 Great Titchfield Street, W1W, meraki-restaurant.com

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TRAVEL

Country pursuits

Scotland’s premier sporting estate and hotel Gleneagles has had a dramatic design makeover for the summer season. After a round of golf on its championship courses, a spot of archery or fishing, or a lesson at the Gundog School, you’ll be more than ready to appreciate the sumptuous rooms, the outdoor hot pool at the spa and a Michelin-starred feast courtesy of chef patron Andrew Fairlie. From £265 a night for two on a B&B basis, gleneagles.co.uk

IMAGE COURTESY OF GLENEAGLES


TRAVEL

Star-struck in

b e at t h e h e at

San Sebastian

Chef Pedro Subijana has held three Michelin stars at his San Sebastian restaurant Akelarre since 2007, and a decade on, is expanding the premises to include a five-star, 22-room hotel. Floor-to-ceiling windows and private terraces reveal dramatic views over the Bay of Biscay, while marble and oak dominate the luxurious bathrooms. From £379 a night on a B&B basis, akelarre.net

Summer temperatures in Oman can be oppressive, so what better way to catch a breeze than on Six Senses Zighy Bay’s new dhow boat? On-board activities include cooking classes and spa treatments as well as kayaking, snorkelling, and fishing. An additional speedboat allows further exploration of the secluded bays and fishing villages that line the Musandam coast. If you struggle to find your sea legs, combine with a stay at the resort. From approx. £17,445 for a bespoke two-night itinerary for up to six guests, sixsenses.com

havana’s new hotspot Gran Hotel Manzana Kempinski La Habana is opening in Cuba’s UNESCO world heritage site Old Havana. Of its six bars and restaurants, Evocación Tobacco Lounge is the place to enjoy a cigar while sipping the finest Cuban rums. Afterwards, take a dip in the rooftop infinity pool to watch the sun set over the plaza below. From approx. £285 a night, kempinski.com

the jungle look The Oetker Collection’s grand new opening, Palácio Tangará, is surrounded by São Paulo’s 26-acre Burle Marx Park and its array of tropical plants and exotic birds. It’s a peaceful retreat after a day in the hectic metropolis, with indoor and outdoor pools, a Sisley spa and cuisine from Michelin-starred chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten. From approx. £373 a night, palaciotangara.com

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Isle of wonders A drive of dreams: Northern Ireland’s Causeway Coastal Route and the Republic’s Wild Atlantic Way WORDS: Camilla Apcar

T

he best way to discover Ireland is, without doubt, by car. Whether your trip covers countryside or coastline, driving allows you to experience every shade of land, sky and sea up close, from viridian and turquoise to teal. Most clichés are remarkably true about the Irish landscape and weather: the former, stunning; the latter, unpredictable (getting soaked by drizzle would not inspire such a poetic mood perhaps anywhere else in the world). But the island’s true appeal – a realisation only made when you arrive – is that, with 1,700 miles of coastline, a surprising amount of it feels as though it is still untouched. Taking a week or two to zigzag, wend and wind south-west along the coast, you will often be

alone on the road – but never lonely. The mountains, waters and fields all seem to have a life of their own, whether travelling in the morning, at noon or dusk. Exploring Ireland’s narrow roads is a motorist’s dream (every other car will be a nippy Nissan Micra, which is no bad choice of rental vehicle for tight passes and hilly climbs, albeit the antithesis of luxe). Here, we map out a route along the coast between Belfast and County Kerry, taking in the best pit stops along the way...


TRAVEL

Belfast

Capital starters

Causeway Coastal Route

Life on the edge Both Northern Ireland and the Republic of Ireland are packed with picturesque views. You will have seen many on postcards and Instagram before, yet for each of those, there are hundreds of lesser-known and equally stunning vistas to be discovered. Case in point is the Causeway Coastal Route, snaking from Belfast to Derry. While the Giant’s Causeway – thousands of basalt columns locked together at the water’s edge – and Game of Thrones’ filming locations are its main draws, there are also quiet temples and abandoned castles. Most fun on a clear day is Carrick-a-Rede’s bracing rope bridge, suspended 100ft above the sea between two spits of land.

Pit stop: The turreted Ballygally Castle is also a humble hotel, sat on the Antrim coast and overlooking some of Ireland’s gentlest stretches of sandy beach.

Northern Ireland is raising its game in the culinary stakes – last year, the country celebrated a Year of Food and Drink. Belfast is leading the way and is brimming with options – from local oysters at Mourne Seafood to delicious hot chocolates at hidden treasure Co Couture. At Ox Belfast, experimental menus might combine lamb, cauliflower and miso or strawberries and verbena. The restaurant opened in 2013, and is just within reach of starry Michelin heights. The most high-profile opening of recent years, however, is Titanic Belfast (pictured, below): a fascinating interactive museum built on the site of the shipyard where the passenger liner was built.

Pit stop: In the cobbled Cathedral Quarter, the Merchant Hotel confidently combines Victorian and Art Deco styles. Don’t miss the porridge with whiskey cream at breakfast in the Great Room restaurant, served beneath the intricate plasterwork and grand chandelier. From £200 a night, themerchanthotel.com

Turn onto roads just to see where they lead

From £200 a night, hastingshotels.com

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Enniskillen

Bubbles on the border Finn Lough Resort, just before the border with the Republic of Ireland, is more than a pit stop. Rising with the dawn takes on new meaning when there are no curtains to shield you from it: such is the novelty of sleeping in a bubble dome hidden in a picture-perfect forest. Supremely well insulated from the elements on Lough Erne’s shore, these inflatable suites are pared back yet utterly modern (with just a radio for company). An adjoining bathroom is concealed from view, but in a double bubble, a tub is just the place to become at one with nature. From £195 a night, finnlough.com

Mayo & Galway

The wild west By the time you reach the Ring of Kerry, turning onto unidentified roads just to see where they lead inland will become second nature – but up here, hugging the coast reveals the greatest marvels. The Republic’s Wild Atlantic Way runs north of Derry right around to Kinsale in Cork, and its westernmost section takes in the Clifden Sky Road: 11km of delightfully winding, rising and falling narrow track. To reach it means crossing Connemara. Amid rolling hills and lakes magically materialising from the grasslands, you may find yourself blissfully alone on

the open road. Unlike the northern and southern reaches of the island, where there are cities and towns well equipped to host big groups, tourists along this central stretch are of the more independent variety.

Pit stop: Inland again, on the Mayo and Galway county border, the Lodge at Ashford Castle is Irish through and through, from the staff to the toiletries. During dinners overlooking Lough Corrib, copper pots of local potatoes steal the show. From £198 a night, thelodgeac.com

Amid rolling hills and lakes magically materialising from the grasslands, you may find yourself blissfully alone


TRAVEL

County Clare

Of land and sea The forces of nature have made themselves apparent on the western coast, especially at the dramatic Cliffs of Moher – ideally viewed from the sea – and The Burren, a sprawling marvel of limestone pavement peppered with ancient stone tombs. The winds change frequently here, scuppering even the best-laid plans. This is all part of Ireland’s atmospheric magnetism, but the Burren Smokehouse offers tasty relief from

inevitable rains – find out how the salmon is smoked before trying some.

Pit stop: Take a scenic 45-minute diversion back east towards Limerick to Adare Manor. Opening in autumn after an 18-month renovation, this storied 840-acre estate and calendar house is set to be worth a trip of its own. From £280 a night, adaremanor.com

County Kerry

The other Kerry For many, a trip to County Kerry involves driving around its ring road and attempting to get 13km out to sea to scale the Skellig Islands (a completely isolated set of rocks, home to a former monastery, where choppy waters often make it impossible to moor). To avoid both crowds and disappointment, try getting lost on the pass roads instead, which reveal equally stunning combinations of blue and green at every unexpected turn. While there, explore the Ballaghbeama Pass – its sheep love company. There’s little in the way of fine dining here, but open landscapes and short showers means a rainbow and its gold are never very far away.

Pit stop: Park Hotel Kenmare, part of the Relais & Châteaux group, is full of antiques and quilted bedspreads. Spending a night here is like stepping into another century entirely. From £198 a night, parkkenmare.com

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T H E Y O G A W E L L N E S S C O M PA N Y

Your Journey To Wellness Through Yoga

Upcoming States of Awe Workshops: Time - 8th October 2017 States - 12th November 2017 Space - 3rd December 2017 Amalfi Coast Villa Retreat: 9th - 14th October 2017

Luxury Yoga Workshops & Retreat (+44) 203 621 4388

To Book Workshops & Retreats: www.theyogawellnesscompany.com

@yogawellnessco


TRAVEL

model wears hooded top, £170; ipanema swim shorts, £145, both frescobol carioca, frescobolcarioca.com

palm t ree s wim s ho rt s , £ 8 9 , bo w ler & beac h , bo w lera ndbeac h. c om

col ou rblo ck t- shi rt, £75, sunsp el, s u ns pe l.c o m

caseload Our pick of summer clothing and accessories to take you from the beach to the bar airs ilk 44 du f f l e bag, £1,100, He r m è s, uk.hermes.com

stri ped SHIRT, £23 5, th om s we e n e y, th oms we e n e y.co.uk

h aston f l ip f l op s, £ 3 5 , or l e b ar b r ow n, or l e b ar b r ow n. c om

Pelle T e ssuta es padrille s, £ 5 5 0 , Ermenegil do ze gna, zegna . c o. u k

stretch cotton s h o rt s , £ 2 4 0 , to d ’ s x m r p o r t e r , m r p o r t e r . co m

g l eave l eather towel strap, £95, or le bar br own , o rle bar br own .com

SPECTATOR 1 sun g l a s s e s , £ 1 6 5 , e n l i s t, e nl i sts t y l e . co m

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from the tod’s x mr porter collection, mrporter.com, photography: Mr Nacho Alegre for MR PORTER

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B

umping through the Botswanan bush in a jeep makes for an impressive game of I Spy. The Big Five (lion, elephant, buffalo, leopard and rhino) are among the many creatures great and small who call the national parks and game reserves – which cover more than 25 per cent of the country’s land mass – home. At other popular safari destinations, from Kenya’s Maasai Mara to South Africa’s Kruger National Park, convoys of touristfilled trucks prepare to race each other in pursuit of the best photo opportunities, but Botswana’s strict conservation policies mean there’s every chance a pride of lions will be the only company you’ll encounter as you cross the dusty terrain. The parks are clustered around northern Botswana. Head to the Moremi Game Reserve, the first reserve in Africa to be established by local residents, to marvel at its picturesque patchwork of floodplains and explore one of the most diverse ecosystems on the entire continent. As the dry season descends and the tall grasses and lush vegetation recede, cheetahs, giraffes, zebras, hippos and hyenas, together with more than 22 types of antelope and 600 bird species, will congregate around the waterholes. The odds of animal encounters at this time of year are favourable, especially at the Okavango Delta, one of the last remaining water sources of the season. Here, predators and their prey come to cool off, and run the gauntlet of those lying in wait...

Gre at Es ca p e

Botswana Discover one of Africa’s last unspoilt wildernesses on a Barclay Stenner safari

WILDLIFE ON THE DOORSTEP

Where to stay When it comes to spying the animal kingdom up close, few can compete with luxury safari purveyors Barclay Stenner. Founders John Barclay and James Stenner organise fully bespoke expeditions focused primarily on the Okavango Delta, the Central Kalahari Game Reserve and the Makgadikgadi Salt Pans. Barclay Stenner’s private canvas safaris are mobile, meaning the team can up

this image and right: AFRICAN VILLA AT OKONJIMA, IMAGE CREDIT: ALEXANDER BEER, all other images by james stenner


travel

sticks and follow the trail of wildlife, based on the latest news and sightings from the ‘bush telegraph’. Being mobile doesn’t have to mean compromising on creature comforts, though. Custom-designed hexagon tents are kitted out with Persian carpets, four-poster beds, 400-thread count Egyptian cotton sheets, flushing toilets and bone handled silver cutlery, all set up on arrival by the entourage, who are there to tailor the experience to guests every step of the way.

SUITCASE E S S E N T I A L S

F l a sk , £ 5 5 , aspi nal ofl on d o n . co m

Where to eat ABOVE: Dining on a barclay stenner safari

LUXURY TENTED ACCOMMODATION ON A BARCLAY STENNER SAFARI

There are no bushtucker-style trials to endure on a Barclay Stenner safari: epicurean delights are all part of the equation. South African MasterChef finalists and top local sommeliers are on hand to throw spectacular dinner parties under the stars (if cocktails are your poison, Stenner mixes a mean Old Fashioned), while Edith Piaf plays on the Bluetooth gramophone, often in duet with a roaring lion. Come breakfast, tuck into a Full English while watching elephants quench their thirst. Luxury Explorer safaris from approx. £585pppn, barclaystenner.com

S h i r t, C hl oe x Ne ta - Po r t e r , £ 1 , 0 9 0 , ne t- a- po r t e r . co m

Eau de Toi l et t e , from £ 6 0 fo r 5 0 m l , fl or i sl on d o n . co m

M&F recommends Barclay Stenner’s core business is in Botswana, but the company also organises privately guided safaris in neighbouring Namibia. Here, popular pit stops include the Okonjima Nature Reserve (the location for our fashion shoot this month), a 22,000 hectare private reserve and base for the AfriCat Foundation, an organisation dedicated to the conservation of Namibia’s large carnivores. The reserve has its own luxury lodge, offering a number of accommodation options, including the grand African Villa, which comprises a main house, two separate private suites, and an infinity pool overlooking a natural watering hole. From approx £515pppn, okonjima.com

Su ngl a ss e s , V i ct or i a B ec k h am, £ 3 2 5 , av e nu e 3 2 . co m

B a c k pa c k, £ 9 9 5 , b u r b e r ry. c om

VILLA BEDROOM AT OKONJIMA

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“Nature defines who and what we are, and no more so for any nation than New Zealand, Aotearoa, the land of the long white cloud.� - A l M o r r i s o n , former director-general of the Department of Conservation, New Zealand


TRAVEL

clockwise from far left: sunrise at cape kidnappers; golf course at cape kidnappers; main lodge cape kidnappers, all courtesy of the farm at cape kidnappers

New Zealand’s population is around half that of London, and its new breed of accommodation favours quality over quantity too, as Marianne Dick discovers

T

ravelling to New Zealand is a strange experience. The 26-hour journey via Singapore is, in itself, disorientating; and the thought of being the furthest possible distance from home is daunting. I leave London when the first signs of summer are appearing, yet as I embark on my journey across New Zealand’s North and South islands, it seems as though I am experiencing a condensed and concentrated version of autumn and winter. When I arrive, my luggage is scanned for any potential contamination (on-the-spot fines can be handed out for trying to smuggle in so much as a vegetable), however internal flights are almost as easy as hopping on a train back home. It quickly becomes clear that New Zealand is very protective of its assets – and rightly so. When Peter Jackson chose to film The Lord of the Rings and The Hobbit trilogies in New Zealand, the door was opened to a huge influx of tourism. But there’s magic to be discovered on its two islands without visiting a film set. The North Island is rich in Maori culture and is home to cosmopolitan cities such as Auckland – resulting in a population that is three times the size of the more picturesque South Island. The Department of Conservation does a huge amount to preserve the native flora, fauna and wildlife. It has done well: New Zealand is free of many of the dangerous snakes and spiders that neighbouring Australia is well-known for. The main problems are stoats, possums and rats (aiming to be rid of them by 2050), which prey on endangered wildlife such as the flightless weka bird and of course, all five species of the precious, emblematic kiwi.

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North Island

Hawke’s Bay One of the largest privately owned and funded wildlife restoration projects in the country is situated partly on The Farm at Cape Kidnappers resort in Hawke’s Bay – an area on the North Island known as the food bowl, because of its warm and dry conditions. The 6,000-acre, 22-suite farm sits on a southeastern Pacific peninsula, and is also the site of one of New Zealand’s top golf courses. Safe to say, if you miss your shot, it’s unlikely you’ll be able to retrieve your ball. The farm is home to the largest accessible mainland gannet colony in the world, where you can stop off on a farm tour. Standing on the cliff overlooking the wild sea cascading against the rocks really feels like you’ve reached the end of the earth. Guests of the farm can also arrange a kiwi discovery experience, accompanying a guide as they check on and weigh birds that are part of its rescue programme. The kiwis at Cape Sanctuary are brown, and the only wild type living on the North Island. They have been introduced into the area from other parts of Hawke’s Bay, and are thriving due to the low levels of predators. Until this point, I wasn’t remotely aware of how important this flightless, nocturnal and portly bird was to New Zealanders, however embarking on

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curl up on with a book as the sun sets. The night reveals an indescribably starry sky, as the chill from the South Pacific Ocean creeps in. After a busy day golfing or protecting fluffy baby kiwis, Cape Kidnappers’ extensive wine cellar looks very appealing: it holds more than 8,000 wines and is the biggest in the country. You can’t go too far wrong when it comes to wine in New Zealand, especially in Hawke’s Bay (the oldest wine region), which is renowned for its reds and chardonnays. From £437, capekidnappers.com

Craggy Range Serious oenophiles visiting Hawke’s Bay will want to fit in a stay at the Craggy Range vineyard, a relatively young winery flanked by the picturesque Tukituki river and Te Mata peak. It was set up in 1997 by American billionaire Terry Peabody with the intention of making it a family legacy. He has made sure of this by setting up a 1,000-year trust so that it can never be sold. Craggy Range is renowned for its red grapes, which are grown on the Gimblett Gravels vineyard: a warm and gravelly spot next to the Ngaruroro River, just over the other side of the Te Mata peak. The harvests have been so successful that its three Prestige wines – Le Sol, Aroha and Sophia (as in Loren) – have been listed in the Fine Wines of New Zealand 2017, You can’t go too far a selection of the highest calibre. wrong when it comes to A winery tour and tasting guided by Michael Bancks is highly recommended. wine in New Zealand, is one of New Zealand’s leading especially in Hawke’s Bay Bancks sommeliers, who also represented the country in the ASI World Sommelier Competition last year. Arranging this before dinner at the estate’s acclaimed restaurant Terrôir means guests can select a favourite vintage to accompany their meal. I choose the Aroha – a pinot noir. This variety of grape is gaining popularity in the area and during my time in New Zealand, I often hear it compared to chocolate. Terrôir is housed in a grand circular building, decorated in earthy terracotta tones with a huge open fire in the centre. The menu revolves around local produce and the head chef, Andrew Saxon, grows ingredients in an on-site garden (a recurring theme, which I notice at Cape this expedition – especially with a local – opened my eyes to Kidnappers too). how rare a sighting is, and even rarer to hold one. If you plan on staying a few nights, the owner’s bungalow Cape Kidnappers is one of three resorts in the country has a fully equipped chef’s kitchen for you to cook or hire owned by American investor Julian Robertson, and his in a professional. The U-shaped cottage is positioned North Carolinan roots are evident in the décor in the main around a large, sandstone courtyard with a wood-burning lodge. There are lots of wooden features and animal hides, stove, accommodates up to eight people and has been while a Picasso ceramic is displayed unguarded in the beautifully renovated. library. My favourite room is the circular snug, with its From £1,129, craggyrange.com curved leather banquette and plenty of squishy cushions to


TRAVEL

South Island

Marlborough Hawke’s Bay might be the red wine drinker’s paradise, but white wine lovers need not despair. Marlborough, New Zealand’s largest wine region – contributing over 77 per cent of the country’s total production – is at the northern tip of the South Island, and its speciality is mostly sauvignon blanc. Its nutritious soil comes courtesy of a micro-climate of year-round sunshine and the 1,500km of coastline surrounding the remarkable Marlborough Sounds: a labyrinth of dramatic sunken river valleys that flooded after the last ice age. Cloudy Bay, a name recognised by many for its exceptional wines, is located to the east of the sounds. The colours here are the epitome of autumn, especially in the gardens of the recently opened Marlborough Lodge, a sprawling 16-acre estate just 20 minutes from Blenheim airport. Wild, tumbling trees tickle the surface of a sleepy creek and flame-coloured leaves scatter the grounds like amber and ruby gems. The landscape provides many ingredients for the kitchen, too – grapefruits picked from the orchard are freshly squeezed each morning. This Victorian property was originally a convent in the town of Blenheim, before it was separated into five pieces and transported to its current site in 1994. Many of its original features have been reworked. The room I stay in, the old chapel, features jewel-like stained glass windows. The lodge also organises cruises of the Sounds, with a varied selection to suit a number of tastes. I am treated to a Water, Wine and Wilderness Tour aboard the handsome boat Tarquin, and enjoy fresh mussels, clams, copious amounts of charcuterie, and – of course – crisp, cold sauvignon while drifting serenely through the misty, enchanting valleys. Pausing halfway in a secluded cove, I climb part of the

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from top: marlborough sounds, image credit: rob suisted; the marlborough lodge, image courtesy of the marlborough lodge; marlborough sounds, image credit: rob suisted; Marlborough vineyard, image courtesy of Destination Marlborough opposite page: Craggy range owner’s lodge and vineyard, both images courtesy of craggy range

Queen Charlotte track, a scenic 70 km stretch between the Queen Charlotte and Kenepuru Sounds that is popular with hikers and cyclists. As we make our way back, seals frolick nearby and we spot a penguin diving for fish. Even if these creatures don’t make an appearance, the Sounds are a scene not to be missed. From £676, themarlboroughlodge.co.nz

Queenstown I leave sleepy autumnal Marlborough for the comparatively raucous Queenstown. A hotspot for thrill seekers, this alpine adventure town is by no means large – I manage to explore the centre in roughly an hour. Its location, however, is breathtaking. From my doughy double bed in the elaborately decorated Hulbert House, the view out of the window looks like a hyperrealist painting.

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Bright turquoise sky frames freshly snow-capped mountains (the first snow falls the day before I arrive), which surround the aquamarine Lake Wakatipu. Hulbert House is another Victorian structure, built in 1887 during the west coast’s gold rush, which began in 1862 when Jack Tewa – the shepherd for Queenstown’s founder William Rees – discovered gold on the banks of the Arrow River. This led to the prosperity of areas like Queenstown and the development of settlements such as Arrowtown – a curious, Wild West-style settlement, worth a wander one morning or afternoon. Hulbert House opened last year, and aside from its spectacular views, the décor makes for a memorable stay. Bright, patterned designs cover most surfaces, and chandeliers and French antiques give an opulent finish. The bespoke carpet throughout the hotel, decorated in a Chinese willow pattern, was actually made in England from New Zealand wool. A great way to see the area and its surroundings is to tailor a tour – in a luxury car of your choice – through tour operator Black ZQN. My amicable and interesting guide Grant takes me to meet Maori-inspired artist Jenny Mehrtens, before a wine and cheese tasting at the Wet Jacket cellar door, then lunch at the out-of-this-world Amisfield

Vineyard & Bistro. We decide to ‘trust the chef’, meaning we are surprised with dish after dish of some of the most innovative and immersive food I have ever experienced. We are served creations such as beer ice cream and paua pie (a native shellfish that coincidentally Grant used to hunt by freediving), and forage for a duck and mushroom salad among what looks like a pile of autumn leaves. Another unmissable way to appreciate the theatrical landscape of the South Island is from the air. The Over The Top helicopter company has been running for more than 30 years and its founder and CEO Louisa ‘Choppy’ Patterson is a well-known face in the area and the industry: for a long time, she was the only female helicopter pilot and commercial operator in New Zealand. Over The Top has a number of premium experience packages to choose from, or it can tailor a trip for you. These sleek, all-black choppers will drop you off on a peak with a picnic and a gramophone, take you to arguably the world’s most scenic three-hole golf course, or give you a lift to the notoriously difficult-to-access Milford Sounds.


TRAVEL

from Top: Mahu whenua landscape and lake wanaka; master suite at mahu whenua ridgeline homestead and eco sanctuary, both image credits: majordomo opposite page from top: over the top eurocopter above lake erskine, image courtesy of over the top helicopters; TSS Earnslaw on Lake Wakatipu in Queenstown, image Credit: Real Journeys; the parlour room at hulbert house, image courtesy of hulbert house

I incorporate a Glacier Explorer tour of the Southern Alps with a drop-off at my next destination near Lake Wanaka. We land on a glacier, switch off the helicopter’s engine (a hallmark Over The Top moment), and fully appreciate the grandeur and isolation of the landscape. In the short hop to Mahu Whenua Ridgeline Homestead and Eco Sanctuary, the vista completely changes again, taking us over some snow-dusted mountains to reveal the stunning lake and golden harvest tones of the valleys. Wanaka is regarded as the gateway to Mount Aspiring National Park: an ethereal terrain of mountains, glaciers and lakes. From £422, hulberthouse.co.nz

Wanaka Mahu Whenua, which means ‘healing the land’, was once the Kiwi home of singer Shania Twain and her ex-husband Robert ‘Mutt’ Lange. When they divorced, Lange bought Twain’s stake in the property and has since made it into the largest private conservation site in New Zealand – and a very impressive super-lodge. The 200sq m plot has been re-planted with 1.4 million native trees and plants, and is home to four working sheep stations, pukeko and weka bird sanctuaries, and stables. In a similar vein to other conservation sites such as Cape Kidnappers, a predator fence has begun to be installed and pests are kept in check by a full-time member of staff. The main lodge is rustic yet sumptuous, and I stay in one of the four ridgeline suites that was once the master bedroom. A copper bath looks out of the expansive window at the end of the bed – probably the most scenic soak I’ll ever experience – and the walk-in shower has an almost 360-degree view out onto the remote surroundings.

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One of the most warming aspects of Mahu Whenua, though, is the atmosphere. Not only are the staff incredibly friendly and welcoming, they are also like one big family themselves. Chef Glynnie Barry, who rustles up complex dishes such as a drunken shank with a puff pastry mini pie from a portable outdoor cabin, is married to the estate’s hunter; whose father is said to have had connections to a gold mine in the area. I’m told all this by Huntly McGregor, the land manager who takes me on a four-wheel-drive tour of the grounds. He was there when it belonged to the first owners, and dug the foundations for Twain and Lange’s homestead. Even the helicopter crew who drop me off are happily given a tour of this exciting new hideaway (it opened in February), and it reminds me of something Peter Jackson said about New Zealand. The Lord of the Rings director described it as “not a small country, but a large village”. New Zealand is full of contradictions: it is sparse but incredibly efficient to travel around, it is majestic yet cosy. Its awesome aesthetic splendour is right there in front of you (and easy to see why it’s often used as a backdrop for mystic, fairytale worlds), but there is a deeper beauty within its community. A tranquillity and an inspiring sense of independence, protection and pride, known nationally as that ‘Kiwi ingenuity’. Everyone I meet who is not a native seems to have the same story. They visited once and never went home. Landing back in London feels almost stranger than when I left, and since I did, I haven’t stopped thinking about when I will return. From £1,043, mahuwhenua.co.nz

TIKI TOUR TIPS newzealand.com; blackzqn.com; flynz.co.nz Singapore Airlines flies four times daily from London Heathrow to Singapore with connecting flights to Auckland, from £785, singaporeair.com

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PROMOTION

hot to toTt The new Tottenham Hotspur stadium is well underway – and the premium offerings on match day are set to be on another level

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he project to replace Tottenham Hotspur’s home ground, White Hart Lane, is progressing quickly. The promise of a groundbreaking 61,599-seater stadium in the heart of Spurs territory is nearly a reality. As if this wasn’t enough, the club’s new fourth-floor On Four lounges and suites have the potential to be the most premium match day experience in the country for any fan. Dining has been entrusted to the Roux family, the culinary dynasty that brought the UK its first threeMichelin-starred restaurants. Not only can guests enjoy fine dining, they will have the chance to sit down to eat with club ambassadors before matches. And Michel Roux Jr is eager to get going on the partnership: “we look forward to delivering our fine dining to customers at On Four. This is the first time we have partnered with a sports stadium and it is marvellous that we will be involved in such an iconic new venue.” Each season, members will also have the chance to enjoy a private dining experience with a member of the Roux family, alongside sporting exclusives, such as hosting man of the match presentations and in-depth first team Q&A sessions. Also on the fourth floor is the members-only area The H Club, offering unparelleled views, directly on the halfway line, with only 180 seats. Each membership grants access to two of these seats and with only 90 founding members, The H Club is on course to become the most exclusive ‘club within a club’ in the world. On Four will also introduce Loge On Four, a series of semi-private booths either side of The H Club, boasting Michelin-calibre dining, a complimentary bar and behindthe-scenes access. Flexibility is also important here, with the Loge Suites accessible three hours before and two hours after each match, guaranteed valet parking, and the opportunity to

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top: the new tottenham hotspur football club; this image: the h club

enjoy private drop-off and pick-up through the club-managed limousine service. The Loge Suites are available with four, six, eight or ten seats, and at £357 per person, per game, offer a unique chance to mix with like-minded people and give guests an unforgettable match day experience. Spurs’ home for the 2017/18 season is Wembley, and in partnership with Runwild Media, the Club is inviting 50 guests to a complimentary luxury experience at the opening match of the Premier League season against Chelsea on 20 August. At the first ever Premier League game to be played at the home of football, guests will be treated to full match day hospitality, and will experience the SPVRS (Stadium Project Virtual Reality Suite) to gain an insight into the new stadium and the On Four lifestyle.

WIN A VIP HOSPITALITY EXPERIENCE TO TOTTENHAM HOTSPUR VS. CHELSEA For the chance to receive a VIP invitation to Tottenham Hotspur vs. Chelsea on Sunday 20 August at Wembley Stadium, register your details with Runwild Media at: luxurylondon.co.uk/article/spurs If you would like to receive more information about the On Four experiences, register your interest by emailing: onfour@tottenhamhotspur.com

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Property Listings See below for estate agents in your area

Aston Chase 69-71 Park Road NW1 6XU 020 7724 4724 astonchase.com

CBRE Henrietta House 8 Henrietta Place W1G 0NB 020 7182 2000 cbre.co.uk

Chestertons 47 South Audley Street W1K 2AQ 020 7629 4513

Kay & Co 20a Paddington Street W1U 5QP 020 7486 6338

Pastor Real Estate 11 Curzon Street W1J 5HJ 020 3879 8989 (sales)

24-25 Albion Street W2 2AX 020 3468 0917 kayandco.com

48 Curzon Street W1J 7UL 020 3195 9595 (lettings) pastor-realestate.com

Knight Frank 55 Baker Street W1U 8EW 020 3435 6440 5-7 Wellington Place NW8 7PB 020 7586 2777 knightfrank.co.uk

40 Connaught Street, W2 2AB 020 7298 5900 chestertons.com

Robert Irving Burns 23-24 Margaret Street W1W 8LK 020 7637 0821 rib.co.uk

Rokstone 5 Dorset Street, W1U 6QJ 020 7486 3320 rokstone.com Marsh & Parsons 94 Baker Street W1U 6FZ 020 7935 1775 marshandparsons.co.uk

Hudsons Property 24 Charlotte Street W1T 2ND 020 7323 2277 hudsonsproperty.com

For estate agent listings please contact Sophie Roberts at s.roberts@runwildgroup.co.uk

Sotheby’s Realty 77-79 Ebury Street SW1W 0NZ 020 3714 0749 sothebysrealty.co.uk


HOMES showcasing the

finest HOMES & PROPERTY from the best estate agents

Elegant & exclusive The latest prime properties

Image courtesy of Knight Frank


Sandland Street, Bloomsbury WC1 A two bedroom mezzanine apartment in a gated development A bright two bedroom apartment close to local amenities and to the West End. Comprising master bedroom with built in wardrobes and luxury en suite shower room, 2nd bedroom, bathroom, large open plan modern kitchen/reception room and large patio providing excellent outside space. The apartment has been refurbished to a high standard throughout. EPC:D. Approximately 83.7 sq m (901 sq ft). Leasehold: 982 years 9 months approximately remaining

Guide price: £1,200,000

KnightFrank.co.uk/marylebone marylebone@knightfrank.com 020 3641 7938  

@KnightFrank KnightFrank.co.uk

KnightFrank.co.uk/MRY170060

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Upper Montagu Street, Marylebone W1 Beautifully presented four bedroom freehold townhouse A well proportioned five storey family house in the heart of Marylebone. Master bedroom with built in storage and en suite bathroom, 3 further bedrooms, 2 further bathrooms, large double reception room, 2nd reception room, spacious fully fitted kitchen, dining room, utility room and tranquil courtyard. Further benefits include large windows allowing an abundance of natural light, high ceilings and two vaults. EPC: TBC. Approximately 226.7 sq m (2,440 sq ft).   Freehold

Guide price: £4,250,000

KnightFrank.co.uk/marylebone marylebone@knightfrank.com 020 3641 7938  

@KnightFrank KnightFrank.co.uk

KnightFrank.co.uk/POD140332

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New Cavendish Street, Marylebone W1 Marvellous two bedroom refurbished apartment

KnightFrank.co.uk/marylebone marylebone@knightfrank.com 020 3641 7938

Situated within a purpose built block this apartment is excellently located just off Marylebone High Street. Master bedroom with luxury en suite bathroom, large dressing room which can be used as 2nd bedroom, shower room, spacious double reception room and separate fully fitted contemporary kitchen. Further benefits include large bay windows allowing for an abundance of natural light and lift access EPC: D.

Leasehold: appoximately 134 years remaining

Guide price: ÂŁ3,250,000

@KnightFrank KnightFrank.co.uk

KnightFrank.co.uk/MRY170074

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PROPERTY

The test of time This untouched apartment on Upper Montagu Street retains its original period charm

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The kitchen and butler’s pantry have remained untouched since the apartment was built, and are the only surviving versions in the block

n today’s market, unmodernised homes are hard to come by, which makes them all the more sought after. “Buying unmodernised gives the purchaser the opportunity to create a bespoke apartment and to choose every last detail,” says Craig Draper, associate at Knight Frank’s Marylebone office. On an aesthetic level, such a property is likely to appeal to those who are keen to find original features still intact, but financial considerations are making unrefurbished homes a popular prospect, too. “The cost of stamp duty land tax means a growing number of purchasers would prefer to buy unmodernised to save on the upfront cost,” comments Draper. One such property that ticks all the above boxes is this light-filled apartment in York House, Upper Montagu Street. The current owner grew up there and has many happy memories of the place, which comprises two well-proportioned reception rooms, and four bedrooms, spread laterally across 2,828 sq ft. “My parents bought this flat in 1968. It has been a happy family home ever since, and two generations of children have enjoyed playing in the wonderful hallway,” she says. “My father was a chef and food writer, so the kitchen and dining room were the heart of the flat, which is great for entertaining. As my mother was the Lord Mayor of Westminster we held many municipal receptions here, too. “The flat has a timeless grandeur, and is very quiet. Usually the only sound to be heard is the gentle quarter hourly bell in the clock tower of St Mary’s Church, Bryanston Square, which has been ringing since 1824,” she continues, adding that as York House is such a neighbourly block, people rarely want to move. “York House has been a glorious family home for 50 years. It holds so many happy memories, and I dearly hope that another family will love it as much as we have”. Guide price: £4,500,000. For more information, contact Knight Frank, 55 Baker Street, W1U, 020 3641 7938, knightfrank.com

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Property news PrimeResi brings you the latest news in prime property and development in London Carlton House Terrace, Images courtesy of ROCKHUNTER

Top of the grade Inside the Carlton House Terrace mansion that was sold off by The Crown Estate

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uried among record returns and profits, The Crown Estate’s latest annual report also confirmed the sale of one of London’s great townhouses. Lording over the Mall, Carlton House Terrace was built between 1827 and 1833 as part of John Nash’s Roman-inspired Via Triumphalis route from St James’s to Regent’s Park – for many, the single most successful town planning scheme of all time. Described by Pevsner in his volume for Westminster as “the greatest terraced houses ever built in Britain”, these vast mansions provided the grandest of addresses for London’s noble folk until the first part of the 20th century, when the Second World War prompted a raft of conversions into offices and headquarters.

PrimeQResi JOURNAL OF LUXURY PROPERTY

It has taken a while, but ultra-highnet-worth individuals are realising that these places are peerless in location and volume – the Hinduja brothers have led the way with their project at Nos. 13-16, creating a single residence worth an estimated £250m. Now it’s the turn of No.1 to return to original trophy home use. The Grade I-listed mansion at the Buckingham Palace end suffered some

heavy bomb damage during the Second World War, but was partially restored. The Institute of Materials, Minerals and Mining moved in during the 1970s, for 42 years. After buying in the head lease for £15m and getting the green light for a residential conversion, the Estate slipped the five-storey behemoth onto the grey market last year via Aylesford, asking a rumoured £55m for a new 125-year lease. While the final selling price remains undisclosed, the Estate has confirmed completing the sale. Designs provide a single residence of more than 26,000sq ft, with the original sweeping staircase, seven reception rooms, five bedrooms, staff accommodation, a pool and sauna, cinema, wine cellar and terrace overlooking St James’s Park.


property

NEW HORIZONS Green light for another 200 units at West End Gate Berkeley has been given the go-ahead for the next phase of its West End Gate development, gaining planning approval for up to 200 new apartments on a 0.35-acre chunk of W2. The site sits on the corner of Paddington Green and Newcastle Place, and makes up part of the developer’s wider mixed-use regeneration. New homes will crop up in buildings designed by architects Piercy & Company, ranging from four to 14 storeys, along with lots of green spaces, a new children’s play area, 64 car parking spaces and storage for nearly 200 bicycles. Berkeley acquired the site in 2015, and masterplans were consented back in 2016. The first phase has already sold out; phase two is due to be released this Autumn.

Shooting stars The rise of the ‘super-let’ in prime central London

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eading estate agencies are reporting a trend for superprime rentals in London’s golden postcodes. “Taking a pragmatic approach has seen savvy developers and sensible vendors take a decision to offer their properties to the rental market for a two to three year rental rather than reduce the asking price and lay themselves open to accepting an even lower offer,” says independent buying adviser Simon Barnes. “The advantage is that over a limited term they can achieve exceptional rental revenue, while retaining their property asset and relaunching on the market at a later time when the prime central London super-prime market looks promising. It really is the common sense approach to wait until the market shows a positive change assuming no forced sale is involved.” In some cases, super-prime lettings transactions tripled in the first three months of 2017 compared with the same period a year earlier.

Increasing numbers of luxury rental properties have been brought to the market over the past 12 months, mainly by developers and those looking to avoid selling in a testing sales market. This extra supply is being met squarely with heightened demand from high-net-worth individual tenants. Many who only need a base here for a few years are apparently deciding that renting can make more financial sense than buying, especially after weighing up the stamp duty land tax costs.

have been driving much of this, and the market is expected to continue to flourish. Knight Frank has also been seeing this trend play out, tucking away four £20,000 per week plus deals in as many months, including a £27,500 per week townhouse on Mayfair’s Upper Grosvenor Street.

Increasing numbers of luxury rental properties have been brought to the market over the past year Pent-up demand has been building steadily, but it seems the “full effects” are really being felt in 2017. New applicant registrations in prime central London more than doubled in the first quarter, compared with the same period last year. Corporate tenants, families, entrepreneurs and well-off students

primeresi.com

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The Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings

Drawing of St Dunstan-in-the-West by SPAB Scholar Ptolomy Dean

Founded by William Morris, the SPAB protects the historic environment from decay, damage and demolition. It responds to threats to old buildings, trains building professionals, craftspeople, homeowners and volunteers and gives advice about maintenance and repairs. Since 1877 countless buildings have been saved for future generations.

Information about maintaining your home is available through events, courses, lectures, publications and telephone advice. To support our work why not join the SPAB? Members receive a quarterly magazine, our list of historic properties for sale and access to our regional activities.

www.spab.org.uk 020 7377 1644 A charitable company limited by guarantee registered in England & Wales. Company no: 5743962 Charity no: 1113753 37 Spital Square, London E1 6DY


PEARSON SQUARE, FITZROVIA W1 This duplex penthouse at Pearson Square is the epitome of luxury living, occupying the most desirable and elevated position within Fitzroy Place. With floor to ceiling windows and uninterrupted south westerly views across London`s skyline this stunning apartment boasts tremendous natural light and unrivalled terracing ideal for entertaining. Fitzroy Place is a unique collection of prestigious new homes, enticing stores, a restaurant and high quality office space, all gathered around a stunning landscaped square, centred around the first new square in London W1 for over 100 years.

020 7580 2030 WWW.ROKSTONE.COM 5 Dorset Street, London, W1U 6QJ enquiries@rokstone.com

Price: £9,950,000 » 2837 Sq Ft. Luxury Duplex Penthouse » 837 Sq Ft. Terrace » Three Bedrooms with En-Suite » Three Parking Spaces » Long Lease


PROPERTY

making a move The plethora of quality service options that Abels provides makes it a stand-out option in the removals world

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bels is one of the leading removals and storage companies in the UK, specialising in moving both private and corporate clients within the UK, Europe and internationally. Having held the Queen’s Royal Warrant for Removals and Storage Services since 1989, the company has become renowned for its comprehensive range of services, which are designed to make the process of moving home anywhere in the world as easy and stress-free as possible.

Moving expertise Our staff are comprehensively trained in all aspects of moving. Operational staff hone their practical skills, including packing and handling of possessions, at our in-house training school. Our customer services team are experts in their chosen area of global relocation.

Quality assured Abels is accredited to the highest standards within the removals and relocation industry, holding British Standards Institution and International Standards accreditations for Quality, Environmental, Health and Safety systems and Investors in

People. For our International services, we hold the FIDI-FAIM-Plus International accreditation.

Criminal Records Bureau checks All our employees are checked via the CRB process, which is reviewed on a regular basis, adding further protection and peace of mind for you and your family when moving home.

Services include: A pre-move consultation A skilled, experienced and knowledgeable consultant will visit your home to discuss your specific requirements. Every move is tailored to meet your exact needs, and a clear move plan, together with detailed costs is produced for your approval.

A comprehensive range of packing services Offering a range of packing options from a Complete Service, where you leave everything to Abels’ skilled team, to a Selective Packing service where you may feel that you have the time to pack the majority of your possessions but there are a few pieces you wish to leave to the professionals.

Fine art, antiques, clocks, pianos, chandeliers and objets d’art removals These products require the very highest levels of skill gained from years of experience, specialist packing and attention to detail, all of which Abels delivers on a consistent basis. Where specialist

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crates are required to protect a piece while in transit, these are manufactured in our own facilities.

European services Weekly services from the UK to destinations throughout Europe are designed to cater for everything from a full house move to a small consignment.

International relocations As a shareholder in Harmony Relocations, Abels can take care of your needs no matter where you relocate to.

Other services include but are not limited to: • • • • • • •

Storage service Maid service Project management Personal assistant Car concierge service Tradespeople, such as electricians, plumbers and carpenters Pet relocations

For further information on the range of services Abels can provide, visit abels.co.uk, call 020 3773 5796, or contact John Watson, managing director: johnwatson@abels.co.uk

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NEW HOMES BOLSOVER STREET W1

ÂŁ2,850,000

We are delighted to bring to the market this stunning two bedroom, two bathroom lateral apartment located on the first floor of an exquisite new development in Great Portland Street. The apartment also has the added benefit of direct lift access, a roof terrace and is offered with a brand new 999 year lease.

020 7927 0616

newhomes@rib.co.uk

23-24 Margaret Street, London, W1W 8LF 6911 - RIB - Marylebone and Fitzrovia Mag Ad July 2017.indd 1

www.rib.co.uk 14/07/2017 09:45


PROPERTY

RIGHT: MARTIN BIKHIT AND SAMUEL BIKHIT OF KAY & CO

SUMMER NIGHTS Kay & Co celebrates 35 years in business with a charity garden party in Montagu Square

Photography by Victoria Watson

THE GENTS PERFORM

eDITOR LAUREN ROMANO WITH JONATHAN TINGLE, HEAD OF FUNDRAISING AT WEST LONDON MISSION

Montagu square garden party PRIZE LOTS FOR THE SILENT AUCTION

Eat, drink, be merry and raise money for a good cause: that was the thinking behind the Montagu Square Garden Party, which took place on the evening of 26 June. The sun was still shining when 350 guests, made up of local residents and business owners, descended on the square. To celebrate its 35th year in business, organisers Kay & Co pulled out all the stops, drafting in private members’ club Home House to look after the catering, while soulful quartet The Gents provided the soundtrack and Magic Marco wowed the crowd with his sleight of hand. The highlight of the evening was the raffle and silent auction, which contributed to the impressive £8,000 raised for the West London Day Centre, a service open to anyone affected by homelessness. kayandco.com; wlm.org.uk

MAGIC MARCO ENTERTAINS GUESTS

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PROPERTY

Flying the flag Martin Bikhit, managing director of Kay & Co, explains why London presents an appealing prospect to US buyers

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ABOVE: 124 mARYLEBONE, SEYMOUR PLACE

BELOW: DUPLEX APARTMENT, MONTAGU SQUARE

e have received a 30 per cent increase in sales from US buyers in the last 12 months, as a result of several factors. The favourable exchange rate in particular has had a significant impact. Exchanging US dollars to British sterling is saving US buyers thousands of pounds and in many cases, cancels out the cost of stamp duty, meaning now is the time to buy. Originating mainly from the east coast of the USA, our clients are seeking a bolthole or investment in areas such as Marylebone and Bayswater. Properties overlooking Hyde Park, which is akin to Central Park in New York, are also proving popular. They seek quintessential British townhouses or apartments in traditional mansion blocks and, as they are used to open spaces, larger properties with lateral rooms and open plan living are top of the list. American appliances such as washer/driers and large fridge freezers also go down very well. Whenever we show a property and it has these features, they feel at home. This is in stark contrast to European buyers who prefer new developments and modern properties with porters, concierge services and underground parking.�

For further information, contact Kay & Co on: 020 3394 0027, or visit kayandco.com

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Marylebone & Fitzrovia Magazine Aug 2017  

Welcome to the latest edition of Marylebone & Fitzrovia magazine, celebrating the dynamism of the area and bringing you the latest features,...

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