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spring / summer 18

I s s u e N O4

Best in

show From brand new collections and jewellery trends hot off the catwalk, to beautiful bridal stories and the best of basel and sihh, explore the latest from David M Robinson

Cartier

Omega

Rolex

Patek Philippe

SIHH saw Cartier’s beloved Santos evolve once more

A tribute to the apollo 8 crew, omega debut a brand new speedmaster

new movement, stainless steel and jubilee bracelet: the GMT-Master II ‘Pepsi’

Patek introduce the very first chronograph in the Aquanaut range

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Contents

12 best of ladies at basel

Welcome B

18

Welcome to issue N O 4 of d’amour times

rolex OYSTER PERPETUAL DATEJUST 31 £32,800

Cartier Panthère £9,850

aselworld may have been shorter in duration this year, but the positive mood continued its momentum from recent times. A watch and jewellery show that attracts some 100,000 visitors from around the world is testament to a new era in the luxury industry and proof that Switzerland remains at the very epicentre of that world. Highly anticipated releases from Patek Philippe, included a new Nautilus and two Aquanaut models. Both irresistible and both likely to be elusive to all, but the very best “local and loyal” customers of the various authorised dealers around the world. As ever Rolex surprised and inspired at the same time with their new launches, with the new “Pepsi” GMT being the stand out star. This is the year of the GMT and the watch first designed fifty years ago by Rolex to be worn by the pilots of Pan Am has turned into a genuine icon of horology. Rolex’s little brother, Tudor, is growing up very quickly too. The report from SIHH in Geneva back in January was equally upbeat and my team who attended came back with positive news about IWC as it celebrates its 150th anniversary and a number of sought after models from both Cartier and Panerai. Bringing matters away from Switzerland now, I’m saddened to report that we have taken the decision to close our showroom on Lord Street, Southport. So many of our customers in that area now visit us in Liverpool One, it has become impractical to keep it open. We will remember our days there with the fondest of memories but ultimately, as we listen to our customers, its evident that Liverpool One is where so many now choose to spend their time. And the customer is always right! Exciting news to bring you about our showroom in St Ann’s Square, Manchester. With the acquisition of further space on St Ann’s Square itself, we have been given the opportunity to create a 4,600sq feet showroom over two levels which we hope you’ll be amazed at when you visit. The Square itself is the spiritual centre of Manchester and my team there, led by Lee Chadwick and Hannah Williams are, like me, so excited about our plans. Whilst our appearance in Manchester will be changing quite dramatically, I can assure you that our levels of customer care and service will continue to be the same - it’s in our DMR “DNA” to want to go the extra mile for our customers. We may not be the biggest jewellery company in the UK but we’d like to think we care more than anyone.

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Contents

WATCHES

BRIDAL

Six of the best watches to come out of the first horological outing of the year 07 The Best of Basel The latest reveals from the biggest watch brands at 2018’s Baselworld

DMR introduce five brand new handmade engagement rings 17 The Power of Three A look at the biggest engagement ring trend for 2018; the trilogy ring 17 The History of the Wedding Band Wedding bands; how they came to be and what they represent

05 Inside SIHH 2018

16 New Handmade Collection

JEWELLERY 11 The Trends: Bold Gold and Purple Reign Two of the biggest trends of 2018, classic yellow gold and ultra violet 12 New Collections The latest collections from DMR and Georg Jensen 14 Bespoke Commissions Behind the scenes with some of DMR’s latest unique designs

SPRING / SUMMER 18

dmr world 18 Meet the Teams

Get to know the staff from DMR’s London and Altrincham stores 19 After Sales: Valuations The importance of getting your precious jewellery valued

I S S U E N O4

on the coVER Best in

SHOW FROM BRAND NEW COLLECTIONS AND JEWELLERY TRENDS HOT OFF THE CATWALK, TO BEAUTIFUL BRIDAL STORIES AND THE BEST OF BASEL AND SIHH, EXPLORE THE LATEST FROM DAVID M ROBINSON

Tudor 1926 £2,340

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John robinson managing director david m robinson

Cartier

Omega

Rolex

Patek Philippe

SIHH SAW CARTIER’S BELOVED SANTOS EVOLVE ONCE MORE

A TRIBUTE TO THE APOLLO 8 CREW, OMEGA DEBUT A BRAND NEW SPEEDMASTER

NEW MOVEMENT, STAINLESS STEEL AND JUBILEE BRACELET: THE GMT-MASTER II ‘PEPSI’

PATEK INTRODUCE THE VERY FIRST CHRONOGRAPH IN THE AQUANAUT RANGE

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tag heuer formula 1 chronograph, £1,100 Photography Justin Hast model Kilian Zeugin styling Hailey Caine grooming Ellie Tobin Location Dukes London

Feminine Faces

£64,240

patek philippe launches a brace of timepieces exclusively for ladies

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roving that even the most classical of traditional Swiss watchmakers can no longer ignore the consumer reach of social media, Patek Philippe finally launched an Instagram account two days before Baselworld 2018 opened its doors. The egalitarian watchmaker chose to open the account by posting a picture of its first self-winding Travel Time for ladies: The Calatrava Pilot Travel Time (left). The original Calatrava Pilot Travel Time was launched in 2015 as a men’s wristwatch with a white-gold case and blue dial. This year’s 37.5mm Reference 7234R-001 combines a rose-gold case with a brown dial. A dual time zone mechanism indicates local time and home time, while apertures at three and nine o’clock indicate day and night. The brand also revealed a new face for its manually-wound chronograph for women (right). With a bezel set with 72 diamonds and guilloched pushers, the new model features a silvery oplaine dial with gold applied Breguet numerals. The rose gold case comes with a sapphire-crystal case back.

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£32,990

The original Calatrava Pilot Travel Time launched in 2015 as a men’s wristwatch with a white-gold case and blue dial.

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Clockwise from top left Patek Philippe 5960/1A Annual Calendar, £39,070 Patek Philippe 6006G-001 Calatrava, £23,440 TAG Heuer Carrera Day-Date, £2,200 IWC Ingenieur, £4,150 Panerai Luminor, £5,100 IWC Portugieser Hand Wound, £8,350

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watches

INSIDE SIHH 2018 Six of the best from the first horological outing of the year

cartier Gordon Gekko’s era-defining square-faced statement watch is back. Created in 1904 for the Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, the Santos is widely considered the world’s first pilot’s watch, and is also credited for popularising wristwatches among men. For more than a century, the Santos swelled, softened at the edges and experimented with materials, before it disappeared from boutiques and Cartier’s website completely in 2016. Now, 40 years since the launch of the first Santos in steel, the collection returns with tapered edges and a ‘quick switch’ strap system. There are two sizes available. The large is equipped with a date window and is available in skeletonised form. All are fitted with an automatic mechanical movement. santos From £5,500

iwc On the second night of SIHH, IWC hosted a celebrity-packed gala dinner attended by Bradley Cooper, Cate Blanchett and Lewis Hamilton. Back at its pavilion within Geneva’s Palexpo centre, IWC introduced buyers and press to its Jubilee collection: 27 limited-edition watches from the Portugieser, Portofino, Pilot’s and Da Vinci families. One of the most striking tool watches of the show was the stainless steel Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition ‘150 Years’, its white lacquered dial working beautifully against black indices and blued hands. Only 1,000 of the 43 mm automatics will be produced. pilot’s watch chronograph edition ‘150 Years’ £4,650

panerai Despite being Panerai’s slimmest collection, the Luminor Due still packs plenty of presence on the wrist. If you are hankering for something a little beefier than the 38 mm version, but like your watches lean enough to slip under a shirt sleeve, the new Due is also available in 42 mm form. Sporting Panerai’s signature bridgeprotected winding crown, the anthracite dial of this stainless steel watch features a satiné soleil finish and the brand’s customary large luminous hour markers. It comes with a vintage-feel brown leather strap with contrasting beige stitching. luminor due 3 days automatic acciaio 42mm £5,500

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panerai As the watch sector swelled between 2000 and 2014, so did the watches. After the industry stuttered, spluttered and then shrank in 2015 and 2016, case sizes contracted in line with the confidence of watch companies. Now that Panerai has launched its first ever 38 mm timepiece, we can officially declare the oversized watch trend dead. The daintiest Panerai ever, the stainless steel Luminor Due is only 11.20 mm thick and equipped with an automatic in-house movement. A small seconds sub-dial at nine o’clock sits opposite a date window at three o’clock. Despite being available with straps in lime green and baby blue, this is not, says Panerai, a ladies’ watch. Luminor Due, 38mm £5,100

panerai

iwc

Panerai has presented its first watch with a moon phase. The latest L’Astronomo – or, the Luminor 1950 Tourbillon Moon Phases Equation of Time GMT – is an updated version of a watch launched in 2010 to mark the 400th anniversary of the invention of the telescope. That natty gadget allowed Galileo to track the movement of the moon and stars. Fittingly, the 50 mm brushed titanium L’Astronomo is equipped with a GMT, a date and month indicator and will display sunrise/sunset times, equation of time and phases of the moon.

In 1885, 17 years after it was founded by American watchmaker F.A. Jones, the International Watch Company purchased the rights to a pocket watch movement designed by Austrian engineer Josef Pallweber. The revolutionary calibre displayed hours and minutes in large digital numerals on rotating discs. It was manufactured for two years as a pocket watch between 1885 and 1887. Inspired, and to mark its 150th anniversary, IWC now incorporates a digital hours and minutes display in a wristwatch for the first time. Three limited-edition, hand-wound Tribute to Pallweber watches with jumping numerals will be produced.

luminor 1950 tourbillon moon phases equation of time gmt POA

tribute to pallweber edition ‘150 Years’ From £20,500

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Clockwise from top left TAG Heuer Carrera Day Date, £2,200 Rolex Cellini Time Everose Gold, £11,200 Tudor Pelagos, £3160 Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Day, £6,400 Clé de Cartier, £4,900 TAG Heuer Formula 1 Chronograph, £1,100

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WATCHES

BEST OF BASELWORLD STRAIGHT FROM THE SHOW THAT WATCH ENTHUSIASTS WAIT ALL YEAR FOR, THESE ARE THE BASELWORLD LAUNCHES YOU WON’T WANT TO TAKE OFF

ROLEX ROLEX GMT-MASTER II ‘PEPSI’

£6,800

Four years ago, Rolex reintroduced the ‘Pepsi’ bezel to a white-gold GMT-Master II. This year, the company makes the iconic colourway more accessible by offering the same Cerachrome two-tone (red and blue) bi-directional bezel on a steel version, or, more accurately, Oystersteel. The timepiece is a direct descendant of the original 1955 GMT-Master, a model with a bezel divided into halves – one red, to correspond with daylight hours, and one blue, for night-time hours. The watch became the official timepiece of Pan American World Airways, or Pan Am, the most prominent American intercontinental airline. The new ‘Pepsi’ GMT-Master II houses Rolex’s brand new calibre 3285 movement, incorporating a nickel-phosphorus, Rolex-patented Chronergy escapement. It is the first time a Jubilee bracelet, Oystersteel and the two-colour Cerachrom insert in red and blue ceramic have been brought together on the GMT-Master II.

ROLEX EVEROSE ROLESOR DATEJUST 36 Rolesor, the combination of gold and steel on a Rolex wristwatch, has been a signature of the brand since 1933 – 12 years before the Datejust became the first self-winding waterproof chronometer to display the date in a window at 3 o’clock. This year, Rolex introduces a new-generation Datejust 36 in Everose Rolesor – combining Oystersteel and 18ct Everose gold. The new timepiece arrives with redesigned case sides and lugs, and is equipped with the calibre 3235, providing for a 70-hour power reserve. £8,050

ROLEX GEM-SET COSMOGRAPH DAYTONA Proving itself as dexterous at gem-setting as watchmaking, Rolex has created an 18ct Everose gold Cosmograph Daytona adorned with a plethora of precious stones. Thirty-six baguette-cut sapphires make up the colour of the rainbow on the watch’s bezel; 56 brilliant-cut diamonds are set into the lugs and crown guard; while the dial features 11 baguette-cut sapphire hour markers, each matching the colour of the corresponding point on the bezel. Elsewhere, the chronograph counters comprise pink gold crystals, a material with a particular shimmer, created during the crystallization of a pink gold alloy by means of a special process developed by Rolex.

POA

PATEK PHILIPPE AQUANAUT CHRONOGRAPH Baselworld 2018 saw Patek Philippe bolster its Grand Complication collection with a slew of supremely intricate new timepieces. Yet it was a sporty, stainless steel number that took centre stage at this year’s show. Not only does the Reference 5968A-001 represent the very first chronograph in the brand’s Aquanaut line of watches, but the timepiece arrived with attention-grabbing orange accents on its second hand, chronograph hand and inner and outer railway track counters. Having celebrated its 20th anniversary last year, the Aquanaut is Patek Philippe’s most athletic collection, befitting a flyback chronograph addition – presented as a 60-minute counter at six o’clock. Behind a grey dial with applied gold, luminescentcoated numerals, a 42.2mm case houses a self-winding movement visible through a sapphire-crystal case back that is accurate to -3/+2 seconds per day (as required by the Patek Philippe seal). A virtually friction-free vertical disk clutch means the chronograph hand can also be used as a continuously running seconds hand. The Aquanaut Chronograph is waterresistant to 120m and available with either a classic black composite rubber strap, or a vivid, dial-matching orange rubber strap.

£33,510

GOLDEN ELLIPSE When it first appeared in 1968, Patek Philippe’s Golden Ellipse was a bold departure from traditional watch shapes, featuring a case that was somewhere between a circle and a rectangle. Its design was inspired by the ‘golden ratio’ – the ‘divine’ proportion discovered by ancient Greek mathematicians (1:1.618) which forms the basis of some of history’s greatest works of art and architecture. In 2008, to commemorate is 40th anniversary, a ‘Jumbo’ model (34.5 x 39.5mm) was launched in platinum. Now, for its 50th year, Patek Philippe presents a new rose-gold version with the same dimensions. It sports an ebony black sunburst dial with gold applied hour markers, and a crown set with an onyx.

£23,620

NAUTILUS PERPETUAL CALENDAR One of the world’s most iconic watches has been endowed with one of the most treasured complications in watchmaking. Following the addition of functions including a chronograph, a second time zone (Travel Time) and the Annual Calendar, Patek Philippe has enriched its Nautilus collection with a perpetual calendar. A unique combination of sports appeal and technical sophistication, the Reference 5740/1G automatically recognises the number of days in each month as well as the periodically recurring 29 of February. Under a white-gold, 40mm case beats an ultra-thin self winding movement, visible through a sapphire-crystal case back. On top of a blue sunburst dial, gold hour markers have been applied with luminescent coating.

£91,150

One of the world’s most iconic watches has been endowed with one of the most treasured complications

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TUDOR Black Bay Fifty-Eight Reintroduced to the UK market in 2014, Tudor has spent the last four years flexing its muscles in the mid-tier toolwatch category. Sticking with a winning formula, the Rolex sister-brand used Baselworld 2018 to reveal its brand new Black Bay Fifty-Eight model – an accessibly-priced vintage-inspired dive watch equipped with a manufacture movement, the third manufacture calibre from Tudor in three years. Like other models in the Black Bay line, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight features a dial inspired by the Tudor divers’ watches of the 1950s. It adopts the characteristic angular hands known to collectors as snowflakes, that appeared in the brand’s 1969 catalogue. The large winding crown, characteristic of the first generation of Tudor divers’ watches to be waterproof to 200 metres (660 ft), is also presented in this new model.

£2,340

TAG Heuer Tudor 1926 Collection

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph GMT

Also new for 2018 is Tudor’s 1926 line, named after the year the name Tudor was registered by Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf. The unisex collection comes in four sizes – 28 mm, 36 mm, 39 mm and 41 mm – and with a wide choice of dials. Offered in silver, opaline or black, the dials of the Tudor 1926 come with appliquéd even-numbered Arabic numerals between faceted arrow-shaped hour markers. There are also versions where the odd-numbered hour markers are set with diamonds. Cases and bezels come in steel or rose gold-andsteel. All watches are waterproof to 100 metres (330 ft).

To celebrate the 55th anniversary of the Carrera, TAG Heuer has unveiled a new GMT-equipped chronograph powered by its own in-house calibre – the first time the brand has coupled this complication with its manufacture movement. The chronograph minutes and hours are at three and nine o’clock, with the permanent small second at six o’clock and the date window at 4:30. A GMT hand on the dial allows wearers to switch between time zones. The bezel is made of two-tone ceramic in black and blue, and engraved with a 24th scale. The Carrera Chronograph GMT is available with a steel bracelet or rubber strap.

£1,220

TAG Heuer Formula 1 Lady TAG Heuer has reinterpreted its Formula 1 Lady collection with a series of completely redesigned watches that can be personalised with interchangeable straps. The curve of the case – in polished and brushed steel or with black PVD coating – has been refined and is now available in a diameter of 32 or 35 mm. A new double-plate system on the dial adds contrast, improves legibility and creates an interplay of colours. Straps are available in brown, blue, white, red or black leather, and also in metal.

OMEGA Omega Seamaster Diver 300m Twenty-five years after the first Seamaster Diver 300M, Omega has updated the collection from the inside out. Now sized at 42 mm, the new-look watches sport ceramics bezels with the diving scale in Ceragold or white enamel. Inside, the collection is now powered by Omega’s latest Master Chronometer Calibre 8800. Dials are made from ceramic and are available in black, blue or PVD chrome colour. Omega has reintroduced laser-engraved wave patterns on the dials; indexes have been raised and filled with Super-LumiNova; and skeleton hands have been subtly reshaped.

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£3,600

£3,280

OMEGA Trésor Collection Omega updates its Trésor collection with nine new models available in either 39 mm or 36 mm cases on either fabric or colourful leather straps. Distinguished by their thin cases, each timepiece sports diamond encrusted cases and a single diamond on its crown. Each crown is also decorated with a single red flower made up of five Omega logos. Slender hands are circled by transferred or embossed Roman numerals on a range of dial colours. Each watch includes a mirrored caseback with a ‘Time for Her’ design.

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watches

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TIMES

From top left Eclipse ring £8,950, honeycomb rings From £975, pebble ring £2,250, love lines ring £2,950, cleo secret ring £4,500, ribbon ring £3,450, triple band diamond ring £3,650, honeycomb rings From £975, cleo secret ring £4,500

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JEWELLERY

Bold GOLD YELLOW GOLD JEWELLERY IS OFFICIALLY MAKING ITS COMEBACK THIS SEASON...NOT THAT IT REALLY WENT ANYWHERE

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GIALLO NECKLACE £1,450

Carleeann’s

his season, go bold or go home. For spring and summer, it’s all about going big with the metal that will truly never go out of style; gold. As the old saying goes: ‘the bigger, the better’ and it’s no different when it comes to wearing this trend. Be brave and choose chunky yellow gold jewellery to wear on your neck, arms and ears to really make an impact. “80s Sculptress was a key trend to emerge from the Spring/Summer 2018 catwalk shows across the globe,” said Carleeann Taylor, DMR’s Jewellery Buying Manager. “DMR have translated this trend into its own ‘Giallo’ collection. Taking its name from the Italian word for yellow, ‘Giallo’ is an exciting new suite, perfectly representing DMR’s willingness to take risks. This bold, striking collection is focused around elegant 18ct yellow gold featuring stylish interlocking links.”

TOP PICKS David M Robinson’s Jewellery Buying Manager, Carleeann Taylor, picks out her favourite DMR products for the upcoming season.

HOOKED ON YOU RING £1,350 GIALLO EARRINGS £450

GIALLO BRACELET £1,150

CLOUD NINE NECKLACE £1,250

“This bold, striking collection is focused around elegant 18ct yellow gold featuring stylish interlocking links.”

Purple REIGN

AMETHYST DIAMOND NECKLACE £2,250

GEORG JENSEN TORUN BANGLE £395

GOODBYE GREENERY, HELLO ULTRA VIOLET; PANTONE ANNOUNCE THE COLOUR OF THE YEAR FOR 2018

T AMETHYST DIAMOND CUSHION CUT RING £2,750

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he colour on everyone’s lips this year is ultra violet, and for a good reason too. Announced as the Pantone Colour of the Year 2018 by the Pantone Colour Institute, it has since dominated the catwalks and the red carpet. While the popular shade comes in a variety of different stones, including sapphires, jade and tanzanite to name a few, amethyst stones are among those that are most dazzling. David M Robinson’s Jewellery Buying Manager, Carleeann Taylor, said: “Pantone describes ultra violet as a ‘provocative and thoughtful purple shade’ that embodies individuality and spirituality. According to the company it alludes to the mysteries

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of the cosmos and the unknown. Inspired by the announcement, DMR is introducing its clients to new amethyst jewellery this season; a vibrant, yet elegant gemstone.” The cosmic colour has also always been associated with royalty, its depth considered elegant, rich and powerful. Investing in this celestial shade of purple is a no-brainer, it can be teamed with almost any other colour effortlessly and a piece of jewellery is just perfect to give an outfit a touch of extra class. Opt for the amethyst diamond necklace or diamond cushion cut ring to make a statement or, alternatively, choose DMR’s Meander amethyst ring or Solitaire Surround necklace for something a little more understated.

PEARL DROP EARRINGS £1,250

PEBBLE ROSE GOLD ONYX RING £2,250

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Simply josephine the josephine collection is brand new to david m robinson and designed inhouse with the layering trend in mind

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he Josephine collection, brand new to David M Robinson, can be summed up in two words: delicately elegant. The stylish range was designed in-house by David Robinson and influenced by the popular trend of layering up jewellery. The pieces in the collection boast clusters of round brilliant cut diamonds set along lengths of chain, each separated by a single bezel set diamond. DMR Jewellery Buying Manager, Carleeann Taylor, said: “Our clients wanted pieces of jewellery that they could layer, and dress up or down. That was the inspiration behind Josephine. This pretty collection is the ideal versatile suite.” The collection features two necklace lengths, 21 and 27 inches, available in 18ct white or rose gold and set with 1.37cts or 1.84cts of diamonds, alongside a dainty bracelet set and striking diamond Josephine drop earrings, both diamond also available in 18ct bracelet white or rose gold. £1,450 The charming suite is sold exclusively through DMR’s four showrooms.

josephine necklace From £3,550 josephine diamond drop earrings £1,450

Layering Trend tTo ensure that it doesn’t look cluttered, pick out pieces that effortlessly compliment each other. tMix up bold statement pieces with thinner, more delicate ones, like the pieces from the Josephine collection.

tBe brave and mix up your metals. This will create a more interesting neckline and the pieces won’t blend into one. t Combine different lengths of necklaces. Try pairing a longer statement piece with a couple of shorter chain necklaces.

A Ribbon A sterling new collection from the Danish silversmith doyen, made in collaboration with contemporary designer Jacqueline Rabun

revolution take your look from day to night with a captivating piece from DMR’s ribbon collection

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MR’s Ribbon collection takes its name from the weaving effect of glittering diamonds and interlacing gold strands. The weight of the design ensures a real statement for the wearer, and makes the pieces perfect for taking your look from day to night by adding a touch of glamour. The collection includes a bangle available in 18ct rose gold and two styles of ring, available in both 18ct rose and yellow gold, one with a single strand of diamonds and the other with multiple strands for a more dramatic look. The pieces in the collection take away the effort of stacking jewellery, with one exquisite bangle or ring giving the desired layered effect. DMR’s Managing Director John Robinson said: “The rich hue of the yellow and rose gold used in the ring lends itself to the design perfectly. These ribbon-type rings can be worn day or night and are very easy to dress up or dress down.”

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ribbon ring £2,650

ribbon diamond bangle £9,750

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Jewellery

Georg Jensen’s offspring Georg jensen introduce a second collection with jacqueline rabun

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acqueline Rabun debuted her first collection for Georg Jensen in 2000, featuring an egg-shaped resin bracelet, symbolic of the enduring relationship between parent and child. The curvilinear design has been reintroduced this spring in a 26-piece collection, beautifully hand-sculpted in sterling silver and 18ct rose gold. Coined the Offspring collection, it represents Jacqueline’s deft flair for proportions, while adhering to the codes of the Danish house, a leader in timeless, sculptural silverware since 1904. Riffing on the original egg-shaped bangle, the new collection features sleek and polished pendants; dangling drop earrings and sweeping, sinuous bangles, designed to sit perfectly on the wrist. Interlocking ovals represent the bond between two people, reflective of Jacqueline’s thoughtful and tender approach to jewellery design. “My work is informed by human experience,” says Jacqueline. “The organic egg form is a symbol of birth, and the connection between the small and larger egg represents unconditional love and the importance of one’s heritage and roots.” While each elliptic piece suggests organic spontaneity, works are designed in Rabun’s new Clerkenwell studio with exacting precision. “That’s the trick,” said Jacqueline. “Each piece in the Offspring collection has been designed to enhance the natural curves of the body.”

ring with brilliant cut diamonds £350 bangle with charm £350

The new collection features sleek and polished pendants; dangling drop earrings and sweeping, sinuous bangles, designed to sit perfectly on the wrist.

all diamond, yellow gold £2,000

all diamond, rose gold £2,000

Find Your compass the iconic compass collection gains new additions to its range; including the addition of sapphire and ruby pendants

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all diamond, white gold £2,000

sapphire and diamond £1,800

sapphire and diamond £1,800

ruby and diamond £1,800

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hile the Compass collection is a DMR classic dating back to 2008, this year brand new pieces have been added to the line bringing with them a refreshed and contemporary look. The collection, which is set in 18ct white, rose or yellow gold, is inspired by the many different paths in which life can take us down and the name fittingly reflects this. The entire compass is encrusted with a halo of round brilliant cut diamonds, while each direction is tastefully represented with a round diamond in a pear-shaped setting. Similarly to the existing collection, each piece is engraved with the words: ‘My North, my South, my East, my West’ on the reverse of each pendant. Also new for 2018 are the additions of sapphire and ruby pendants to the collection, in 18ct white and yellow gold. The eye-catching stones turn the necklaces into true statement pieces. The timeless Compass collection, one of DMR’s most iconic, was designed in-house at its Cheshire studio by David Robinson and is sold exclusively through its showrooms.

Similarly to the existing collection, each piece is engraved with the words: ‘My North, my South, my East, my West’ on the reverse of each pendant.

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TIMES

When all the stars align peter baldwin, loyal dmr client, was over the moon with his bespoke, cosmic-themed piece of jewellery, designed especially for his wife

Perfect Match Peter Baldwin worked with DMR on a second bespoke piece of jewellery for his wife. He wanted the pendant to show two hearts and one Cupid’s arrow, to represent one love. He wanted it to be particularly special and luckily for him, DMR had just what he needed. “I went to DMR with a sketch in hand and a clear idea of what I wanted to do. When I showed it to David Robinson, he was excited, and exclaimed: ‘I’ve got exactly the correct diamond for that. I’ve been waiting for the right piece to put it in.’ He explained that this was a diamond he had bought 10 to 15 years earlier, put in his stock and been waiting patiently for somewhere to place it ever since.”

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avid M Robinson client, Peter Baldwin, wanted to be as involved as possible when it came to producing a bespoke piece of jewellery for his wife. Having always been a fan of DMR’s jewellery collections, often heading to a showroom to pick up pieces for his wife, he had an idea of the services provided and knew it was a process he could trust DMR with. “Initially I’d bought my wife much of the Lunar collection, having started with the ring, then progressing to the bangle, pendant and earrings. However, there was something in me that wanted a piece that I wouldn’t see on any other woman. Something that was intimately special between her and I. So I started sketching,” Peter said. “I really admired the Lunar collection and I wanted to incorporate the stars and planet concept. DMR took my initial sketches and changed things for the better. We ended up with a circular piece, to represent a planet, with arcs of other circles inside – which represent the rings you see around planets like Jupiter. Finally, we put in some diamonds to represent the stars. I wanted to see the project grow from simple

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sketches into a physical object, one that had been thought about, considered in detail and cherished at the end.” After the design was complete and both parties were happy, DMR produced a computer rendering for the client to see. “That was an amazing moment in the project, because the pieces suddenly came to life.” recalls Peter. for which I will always be indebted to DMR for giving me.” Peter was so happy with his bespoke creation that he went on to work with DMR on a further three bespoke projects. DMR’s heritage was built on bespoke jewellery design, David Robinson himself having trained everyone at the company to always consider the story behind each piece of jewellery created. This continues today with an award-winning team of in-house designers, passionate about creating the very best for their clients. If you would like to a piece of jewellery designed, please phone or pop into one of the four showrooms.

“When I collected it, just in time for Christmas, I was so impressed. I also felt a degree of pride that I’d been involved in the evolution of the project.” With a final idea at what the piece would look like, the creation was sent to the expert DMR craftsmen to be made using the materials agreed on. “When I collected it, just in time for Christmas, I was so impressed. I also felt a degree of pride that I’d been involved in the evolution of the project.” Peter said. “Whenever my wife wears it now, I look at the pendant and feel like there will always be a little bit of me in it. It’s such a great feeling and one

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Jewellery

Reinventing History Client james campbell made the most of david m robinson’s bespoke services when it came to remodelling an engagement ring for his future fiancé, adapting a ring from his beloved mother’s victorian ring

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hen James Campbell came to DMR with his mother’s ring in hand, he was understandably anxious. While he was keen to use her ring as the engagement ring he presented to his future wife-to-be, Octavia Gray, he knew that it would need adjusting and didn’t want to ruin the heirloom he had been left. “I had been thinking about trying to use my mother’s ring for an engagement ring for Occy for some time, but I was nervous as it carried so much meaning,” James said. “However, when I met with the bespoke design team at DMR, they managed to turn a nerve-wracking experience into a totally enjoyable one. They understood how precious the ring was and they had the utmost respect for the original design, but managed to somehow turn it into to something incredible. They didn’t stop until the design was just right and being able to see the ring cast in wax beforehand made sure the final piece was perfect.” The team sat down with James and discussed options. “The customer had been left a beautiful old cut diamond Victorian style ring. Unfortunately the ring was very large in size and not really suitable as an engagement ring,” Service Manager Nicky Owens explains. “We looked at a few different ways to use some of the stones in a different configuration and ended up designing a traditional style

triology three-stone ring, scaled down from the original, with an unusual and unique marquise shape.” Once James was happy with the design, the DMR got to work setting the stones down the finger using the larger centre diamond and two smaller diamonds to create the marquise shape. The diamonds were set into a platinum illusion plate with a fine rim to create the overall shape, which mirrored the setting of the Victorian ring. “We were able to use the original platinum band on the new ring to create a beautiful sentimental piece, taking history into the next generation.” Nicky said. James was delighted with the finished masterpiece and so was his fiancé: “It’s my dream ring,” Octavia said. “And the fact that DMR “When I met with the bespoke design team at DMR to save the original shank whilst they managed to turn a nerve-wracking experience into managed turning it into my dream marquise shape, blew me away. It makes the ring that little a totally enjoyable one. ” bit more special.”

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Go Bespoke DMR’s bespoke service not only includes designing rings from scratch alongside the guidance of clients, but also encompasses remodelling heirlooms and taking diamonds or gems from old pieces of jewellery to use within a more modern piece that is unique to you. Clients are involved in the process from start to finish, from discussing initial ideas to suggesting metals and cuts, but the experts are there to give their professional guidance for those who are unsure. The meticulous attention to detail the dedicated team brings means that clients can be as involved as they like and rest assured that they will be walking away with a piece unlike any other.

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New Handmade COLLECTION David M Robinson has introduced a brand new handmade diamond engagement ring selection to its bridal collection

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avid M Robinson has introduced a brand new collection of five exquisite handmade engagement rings to its dazzling bridal pear cut collection, just in time for wedding season. diamond Every bespoke DMR story starts at their workshops ring and this time is no different. Master Goldsmith, £8,750 Rupert Haworth, crafted the new collection from the current workshop, just a stones throw away from the original location set up in Liverpool almost 50 years ago by David Robinson himself. The exclusive five rings, which were designed and handmade in Liverpool, all use simplicity as a main source of inspiration. You won’t find diamond-encrusted bands or any unnecessary detailing, this collection is all about stripping it back and focusing on the stunning diamond or diamonds at its centre. The selection perfectly epitomises the best of DMR’s bespoke services, crafting unique rings based on the helpful suggestions from DMR’s valued customers. cushion cut “This handcrafted bespoke collection has allowed us trilogy ring to create a set of beautiful one-off rings,” Rupert said. £8,350 “Each has its own DMR DNA, with subtle sweeps and curves that can only be achieved by hand, and all finished to the highest standard. Each ring has a special meaning that can be treasured forever. “It has been fantastic to bring together a mix of techniques for this collection, including many workshop processes that have been used for many hundreds of years. We’re excited to hear the feedback from our customers.” Each engagement ring boasts a plain band, handcrafted in platinum, 18ct yellow or rose gold, and allows the diamond to really talk for itself. The sparkling stone comes in a few different shapes and sizes, but the most striking of the five marquise rings incorporates the latest engagement band trend; cut diamond asscher cut the trilogy ring. The 18ct yellow gold ring features a ring diamond ring £10,500 cushion cut diamond weighing 0.90cts, set alongside £9,750 two round brilliant cut diamonds. The brilliance of the diamonds and its platinum claws complement the family member, boasting a modern marquise-shaped dominant yellow gold perfectly, making the piece quite diamond at its centre. And for a contemporary the showstopper. asscher cut diamond or elegant oval, choose one of its The same can be said for the ring’s rose gold platinum counterparts.

cushion cut trilogy ring £8,350

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Tudor HERITAGE BLACK BAY s&g £3,580

Tudor HERITAGE BLACK BAY s&g £3,580

Celebrity Status David M Robinson was delighted to be chosen by professional England rugby player, Owen Farrell, to create a diamond engagement ring for his recent proposal to his fiancé, Georgie. After a long summer with The British and Irish Lions in New Zealand, as well as the forthcoming Rugby World Cup in Japan, it’s going to be a very busy time for Owen. We guess ‘handling pressure’ is the name of the game.

“Each ring has its own DMR DNA, with subtle sweeps and curves that can only be achieved by hand, and all finished to the highest standard. Each has a special meaning that can be treasured forever.”

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BRIDAL

The Power of three trilogy rings are set to top the engagement ring trends this year, with thanks to prince harry and meghan markle

T cushion cut trilogy ring £8,650

“This year has seen people stepping away from the traditional solitaire ring, adding shoulder stones to beautifully enhance the central stone.”

Georg Jensen Aurora diamond ring From £1,400

The History of the WEDDING BAND Diamond double band wedding ring £2,150

Platinum tension set Diamond ring From £950

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aking over the engagement ring top trends this year is the three-stone ring, also known as the ‘Trilogy’ or ‘Trinity’ ring. While this style of ring, first introduced in 2001, has always been in demand, it shot up in popularity the moment Prince Harry presented Meghan Markle with a bespoke trilogy ring, where he sweetly used two of Princess Diana’s diamonds as the outer stones. “The three stones in a trilogy ring are said to represent the past, present and future. The central stone represents the present and is often the largest of the three,” Service Manager Nicky Owens explains. “This year has seen people stepping away from the traditional solitaire ring, adding shoulder stones to beautifully enhance the central stone. Additions such as matching shaped stones or eye-catching baguette diamonds create that extra bit of sparkle and make it that extra bit special.” Trilogy rings allow for variety and personality with the endless design possibilities of shape, colour and size combinations. DMR not only have a spectacular range of triology rings, but are also available to personalise your trilogy ring with the bespoke services on offer. Taking an antique stone and incorporating it within a new, modernised triology ring has proven particularly popular. “The most recent and well-known trilogy ring worn by Meghan Markle has great significance and sentimentality. This is something we can help the customers with at DMR, by seamlessly blending or revitalising a family heirloom with a brand new stone.” Nicky said.

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commitment or control? The wedding band passed through a considerable number of different meanings throughout history before it became the symbol of love and devotion it is today

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hile wearing a wedding ring nowadays symbolises your love, devotion and commitment to one another, the history behind wedding bands wasn’t always all that romantic. What first started as a way to show loyalty to one person, turned into tales of ownership, laying claim and showing off wealth. And while women have worn wedding rings since the concept first started, it wasn’t until the mid-20th century that men adopted the tradition as well. In fact, it only became mainstream when soldiers fighting in World War II chose to wear a ring as a reminder of their wives and families back home. No one knows for sure when the age old tradition of wearing wedding rings first began, but some say that the oldest recorded exchange dates back to up to 6,000 years ago in ancient Egypt. The meaning behind the ring has taken on all different forms throughout history, including proof of possession of a woman as well as a more traditional promise of love and a lifetime together, and in the 11th century Christianity took the tradition and made it part

of religious ceremony when getting married. With no beginning or no end, circles are the naturally perfect shape to represent eternal love, and of course, it conviniently works as an item the person could wear on their finger at all times. When it came to material used, wedding rings started off as simple plants or grass woven into a circular shape. However, soon its durability came into question and the plants were switched out for bone, leather and ivory. It was said that the more expenseive the material, the more you were loved by the giver. Romans opted to use iron for their wedding rings, to represent permanance and strength. It’s rumoured that the Romans were the first to engrave their rings with drawings and enscriptions. But it wasn’t until the Victorian era, that wedding rings became more lavish using precious metals in the same way we use them today. Luckily for us, wedding bands have since evolved into a thing of beauty and the possibilities are quite simply endless. Each band easily adaptable to different personalities and personal preferences to ensure it is a symbol of love you won’t want to take off.

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Altrincham showroom DIANE NORBURY - Georg Jensen Ambassador “One of the most enjoyable aspects of my role is the continued association with Master Silversmiths, Georg Jensen, that dates back some 20 years. I have been privileged to assist in the selection of Georg Jensen collections for DMR showrooms and recently returned from a fabulous event hosted by Jensen in Copenhagen where they launched the Offspring collection.”

Sue White - Sales Ambassador “I joined David M Robinson in November 2009. I started to do the jewellery displays shortly after starting at DMR, and quickly became the Jewellery Display Ambassador. When a client enters our showroom and expresses their delight for our displays or comments on a beautiful piece of jewellery they have seen in our window, it gives me a great sense of achievement. For the past eight years I have taken great pride and pleasure in creating the most eyecatching jewellery displays I can and I’m looking forward to displaying the next set of collections.”

April Micallef - Sales Ambassador “My time here at DMR has been filled with so many special stories, most of which being incredibly personal and touching. My favourite sales of all are engagement rings; each purchase has a unique back story and an even more unique proposal plan. My personal favourite has to be when one of my clients went on a three week backpacking holiday in South America, where the proposal was to take place. He had every single thing planned to a T and wanted to propose towards the end of the trip overlooking the sea at sunset. His main worry throughout the whole trip was to not lose the ring.”

Meet the TEAMS From giving expert advice and guidance on buying, to creating bespoke pieces from scratch, DMR have the service, and the staff have the stories

London showroom Cerian Tarbuck - Head of Jewellery “Every day is different and that’s what I love about my job. I have clients who came to DMR to purchase their engagement ring, followed by wedding bands and now they visit with their children. I just love being a part of people’s special occasions and milestones.”

Baron Blackman - Assistant Manager “I have several clients who will hold off from making a purchase until they have come to see us at DMR. They know we will look after them and that really does make you feel good. It shows that we are doing the right things, we’re on the right page and we’re moving in the right direction.”

Jade Munro - Sales Ambassador “I am new to the sales industry but I love interacting with people and I’m fascinated with watches and jewellery. Diamonds are a girl’s best friend after all.”

Melanie Ricks - Tudor Sales Ambassador “I sold my soul to DMR in February 2016. What I love most is that everyone is very involved here, from the directors all the way down to staff, and also when speaking to a client I can hand-on-heart say it’s value for money.”

Keith Parrett - Senior Sales

Sandy Madhvani - Showroom Manager

“I consider my main role here to be providing excellent customer service and exceeding clients’ expectations on a daily basis. When you’re able to use your expertise to help fulfil a dream for someone, being part of that experience is why I love getting out of bed every morning.”

“I love making people’s dreams come true. We’re very lucky that we work in a business where people want to share their stories with you. We’ve been invited to our clients’ engagements, weddings and milestone celebrations.”

Manchester Refit This Autumn, DMR’s Manchester store will be expanding its showroom. With the acquisition of the adjacent space on St. Ann’s Square, DMR have been given the opportunity to create a very exciting retail space, set over two floors and incorporating a brand new Rolex VIP area alongside a private lounge. The showroom will also retain its goldsmith’s studio and Rolex watchmaking workshop. “St. Ann’s Square is effectively the spiritual centre of Manchester,” Managing Director John Robinson said. “And it has been our home too since 1979, although initially the first showroom on the corner was just a fraction of the size it will now become. Naturally, we are proud of our Manchester city centre home and to help the redevelopment, we’ve enlisted the services of Manchester’s leading architectural practice 5plus Architects.” Keen to get going with the impressive new project Nicki Hearne, Associate at 5plus Architects, said: “We are delighted to be working with DMR on this very exciting project. The comprehensive refurbishment of the existing store, alongside the expansion into the adjacent unit – in one of St. Ann’s Square’s loveliest buildings – offer a unique opportunity to create unprecedented accommodation in the Manchester retail sector.”

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DMR WORLD

DMR After Sales:

Valuations BOOK YOUR PLACE WITH DAVID M ROBINSON’S VALUATION EXPERT TO GUARANTEE YOUR JEWELLERY IS PROPERLY PROTECTED

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owadays, getting your prized pieces of showrooms each month, the teams are always happy to jewellery valued is often overlooked. book your pieces in. When you’re walking away with a brand The valuation will see your jewellery go through new piece of jewellery it’s easy to forget, a thorough cleaning and examination process, so that the thought of losing or damaging your sparkling new any work required can be brought to your attention bracelet or glittering ring far from your straightaway. This could include worn mind. However, at David M Robinson, the claws and settings; the security of which role as jeweller doesn’t end after a piece of are vital to the lifetime of your jewellery. jewellery is sold. The dedicated After Sales Once complete, you will receive a valuation team is just as committed to your happy dossier with comprehensive descriptions of April ending as you are and providing this key your item, alongside identifying features and 12th Liverpool service in store is a way of ensuring you are images, all of which assist in returning the 13th Altrincham covered should anything happen. items to their rightful owners in the event 16th Manchester Everyday wear and tear and the that they may be lost, stolen and recovered. ever-fluctuating prices of diamonds and As a rule, you should consider refreshing May gold means that now more than ever it is valuations every three years, especially for 10th Liverpool crucial to have your jewellery’s true value those pieces that are larger and more valuable. 11th Altrincham protected. In the sad event that you do have So whether you received it as a gift, inherited 14th Manchester to make a claim, proof of ownership and it or purchased it yourself, make sure you’ve 31st Liverpool the items value is vital. In fact, without got your precious items protected. them you may end up with an unfair For more information about DMR’s June settlement and no way of proving it. valuation service and to make an 15th Altrincham With independent valuation expert, appointment, head to the website or contact 14th Manchester Georgina Deer, visiting the DMR your local showroom. l

Valuation dates

Store information & contacts ALTRINCHAM

LIVERPOOL

LONDON

MANCHESTER

14 Railway Street Altrincham WA14 2RE T: 0161 928 7487 altrincham@davidmrobinson.co.uk

4-6 South John Street Liverpool L1 8BJ T: 0151 708 1140 southjohn@davidmrobinson.co.uk

4 Jubilee Place Canary Wharf E14 5NY T: 020 7538 2332 london@davidmrobinson.co.uk

28 St. Ann’s Square Manchester M2 7JB T: 0161 834 0217 manchester@davidmrobinson.co.uk

OPENING HOURS:

OPENING HOURS:

OPENING HOURS:

OPENING HOURS:

Monday – Saturday: 10am – 5pm Sunday: Closed

RWMG Bespoke One Canada Square Canary Wharf London E14 5AX United Kingdom t: +44 (0) 20 7987 4320 e: info@rwmgbespoke.co.uk www.rwmg.co.uk

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RWMG Bespoke Content Manager: Joann Khatib Watches Editor: Richard Brown Account Director: Laura Marshall Designers: Paris Fielder, Ella-Louisa Romain RWMG Bespoke is part of Runwild Media Group Group Managing Director: Eren Ellwood

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Monday – Saturday: 10am – 5.30pm Sunday: 11am – 4.30pm

Monday – Friday: 9am – 8pm Saturday: 10am – 7pm Sunday: 12pm – 6pm

Monday – Saturday: 10am – 5pm Sunday: 11am – 5pm

RWMG Bespoke is part of Runwild Media Group © COPYRIGHT 2018 DAVID M ROBINSON LIMITED. All material strictly copyright and all rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without prior permission of RWMG Bespoke and/or David M Robinson is strictly forbidden. All content believed to be correct at time of going to press. For repair, servicing and valuations, please see our website for details. All prices are correct at time of going to press. Prices are subject to change without notice. E&OE. David M Robinson does not officially endorse any advertising material or editorials for third-party products included within this publication. DATA PROTECTION STATEMENT David M Robinson respects the privacy of every individual who receives D’AMOUR magazine. Any information collected about you will be used to fulfil the delivery of the magazine, for readership profiling purposes and for further marketing of David M Robinson products and events. We do this by making appropriate use of the information. This information will not be disclosed to anyone outside of David M Robinson, its affiliated or associated companies, its agencies, dealers, partners or licensees. It will be treated in accordance with the relevant legal provisions concerning data protection and may initially be stored and processed inside or outside the European Union anywhere in the world. You have the right as an individual to find out what information we hold about you and make corrections if necessary; you also have the right to ask us to not use the information. We will make all practical efforts to respect your wishes.

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D'Amour Times - David M Robinson  

Jewellery & Watches - SPRING / SUMMER 18 - Issue 4

D'Amour Times - David M Robinson  

Jewellery & Watches - SPRING / SUMMER 18 - Issue 4

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