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60 60 YEARS YEARS OFOF ADVENTURE ADVENTURE AND AND DISCOVERY DISCOVERY

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from the editor issue no.

123

J A NU A R Y 2 0 1 8

The Death Zone. 26,000 feet. The altitude above which the human body begins to die. At this height, climbers have around 48 hours to make it to a summit and back before their bodies begin to fail. The Death Zone makes Mount Everest the world’s largest open-air graveyard. Ever Rest. More than 250 corpses litter the mountain. Some are part skeleton, others perfectly preserved. Eyes open, hair still blowing in the wind. Too dangerous to repatriate, they are left for nature to reclaim, macabre landmarks used by other climbers attempting their ascent. There’s an unwritten code among climbers. You abandon your mission if you pass others in peril. On Everest, many believe that code doesn’t apply. On Everest, it’s every man for himself. Some 40 climbers passed British mountaineer, David Sharp, as he sat, knees pulled up to his chest, dying on the mountain in 2006. Disorientated, exhausted and suffering from frostbite, he was already too far gone to save, they said. “They don’t give a damn for anybody else who may be in distress,” retorted Sir Edmund Hillary, one of the first two men to summit Everest in 1953. “It doesn’t impress me at all that they would leave someone lying under a rock to die.” The recently released, award-winning Mountain is a cinematic siren song to the summit. In the film’s opening scenes, a spread-eagled free-soloing Alex Honnold smiles into the camera, hundreds of metres up Mexico’s El Sendero Luminoso. Now that the planet’s great peaks have all been claimed, cliff faces have become the latest frontier. There’s no better big wall climber than Alex Honnold. There’s no greater big wall than Yosemite’s El Capitan. Such is allure of the 3,600ft monolith, that it is has featured on the United States quarter dollar coin. The Apple Mac operating system ‘OS X 10.11’ is named after it. When Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson became the first people to climb its most challenging face, Dawn Wall, in 2015, they were personally congratulated by President Barack Obama. Honnold was part of the support team during that 19-day climb. Two years later, he arrived at the foot of El Capitan himself. With no harness and no safety ropes, he scaled his own path in 3 hours and 56 minutes. It was the first time that the full height of El Capitan had been climbed without a rope and is considered the most difficult free-solo in history. You can read about it on page 78. For anyone seeking the fastest way to lose the festive flab, rock climbing burns more calories than almost any other sport. See you on the climbing wall.

m a n a g in g Edi tor Richard Brown

c o n t e n t d i r ec tor dawn alford

a s s is ta n t Edi tor david taylor

J EWEL L E RY EDITOR MHAIRI GRAHAM

ART E DITOR DANIEL POOLE

Ge n era l M anag e r Fiona Smith

Pro du cti on Hugo Wheatley Alice Ford Jamie Steele

Pro pe rt y Di rector Samantha Ratcliffe

Ex ec u t iv e D i r ec tor Sophie Roberts

M a n a g in g Di r ec tor Eren Ellwood

Published by

RUNWILD MEDIA GROUP

One Canada Square, Canary Wharf, London, E14 5AX T: 020 7987 4320

Happy New Year.

Richard brown, editor

Edit o r- in-Chi e f Lesley Ellwood

rwmg.co.uk

El Capitan in California’s Yosemite National Park

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Cover Image (p.48): Oliver

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123

january 2018

Contributors

contents

issue no.

Chris Hall Chris is online editor of QP magazine, and has covered technology and cars for the likes of Wired and Esquire. On page 88, Chris goes to Brands Hatch to take part in the UK’s fastest racing championship.

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Chalet Quezac in Tignes Les Brévières, part of the GC Collection, gc-kollection.com

on the cover

22 Deakin & Francis The cufflinks stalwart opens its very first flagship store 24 Louis Roederer Profiling the world’s most feted champagne 28 Château Latour The wine house establishes its first base outside Bordeaux 33 Have MBAs had their day? Why top-tier universities are abandoning the masters degree 44 Darkest Hour Gary OIdman’s Oscar-tipped Churchill biopic 48 Oliver Cheshire The key to long-term success in the modelling world, courtesy of Britain’s leading man 62 Victor Sanz The creative director behind TUMI’s rapid ascent 68 Oliver Spencer The Favourbrook founder returns to formalwear 78 Alex Honnold The free-soloing climber who conquered El Capitan 92 Andreas Gursky The photographer who prophesied the posttruth world 97 Escape to the Country Bucolic retreats within two hours of London

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city edit

16 the essentials A classy chronograph, an extra layer and a superfast camera lens 20 Inked up Kicks Tattoo artist Scott Campbell makes Berluti’s most customisable shoes yet

Jeremy Taylor Jeremy is a freelance features writer and regular contributor to the Financial Times and Sunday Times Magazine. Turn to page 84 for his journey to frozen Lake Baikal, and a brush with disaster on cracking ice.

city social

30 Monthly digest The Don restaurant, an about-turn for Jackson + Rye, and a new City hotel

city Style

40 Trend Setting Curated ears and swinging pendants – the jewellery trends to take on in 2018 72 The Style Brief Mr Porter’s long-awaited personal line, and the best coats for January

City Motoring

84 Nissan Qashqai The Qashqai is put through its paces on Siberia’s frozen Lake Baikal 88 On your marks Go behind the wheel at the Radical SR1 Cup – the UK’s fastest championship

Mark Westall Mark is editor-inchief of online art and culture magazine FAD and our regular source of information about interesting artists. He discusses how photographer Andreas Gursky predicted the post-truth world on page 92.

THE CITY Magazine | luxurylondon.co.uk


La Grade Arche Š 2016 Johan Otto Von Spreckelsen, a signature building of Paris

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09/10/2017 18:09


City Life e x t re me ch a l e t s | be sp ok e be rl u t is | cu s t om cuf f l ink s | l e ic a l e nse s

Bespoke Berluti

Each pair of Berluti shoes has decades of research behind them, from the trademark patina, to the perfect technique for tattooing premium Venezia leather. Turn to page 20 to see how to create your own bespoke pair. berluti.com

Louis Roederer (p. 24)

CEO Frédéric Rouzaud on producing the world’s most prestigious champagne

fine wine (p. 28)

Château Latour opens its first permanent base outside Bordeaux

Have MBAs had their day? (p. 33) why are so many top-flight colleges abandoning the business masters?


the Edit

The commodities and consumables raising our interest rates this month

THE chalet

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no.

01

extreme comfort

Former world champion free rider Guerlain Chicherit carves a path into luxury

After a successful career in not just one but three of the world’s most extreme sports, former free skiing world champion, stunt driver and rallycross racer Guerlain Chicherit has moved into luxury ski chalets. Alongside chalets Rock ‘n’ Love, Babylon, Banksy and Ubud, Chicherit’s GC-Kollection includes original rider’s pad Chalet Quezac. It was built in 2013 in Tignes Les Brévières (the lower part of the larger Tignes ski area) and is filled with world-famous sporting memorabilia. Boasting 600m2 of complete luxury, Chalet Quezac was named the World’s Best New Ski Chalet in 2014, and made the final of France’s Best Ski Chalet 2016 and 2017. The spacious, contemporary living areas and uninterrupted views mean that it could be a struggle to reach the slopes. If they weren’t just a couple of minutes from your door, that is. With table tennis, a pool table, a fully stocked bar, a giant projector screen TV, a pizza oven, Jacuzzi, your very own wine cave, fitness area, sauna and steam room, as well as an office space and a secret children’s play room, Quezac isn’t your average chalet. gc-kollection.com


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THE essentials

no.

02

German engineering

flying the flag for saxon fine watchmaking

Sharing a valley with A. Lange & Söhne and Nomos Glashütte, last year Glashütte Original updated its satin-brushed, stainless-steel Senator Chronograph Panorama Date, albeit subtly, by replacing Roman numerals with hour batons at all but 6 and 12 o’clock. The timepiece continues to beat with

the brand’s integrated Calibre 37, an automatic chronograph flyback movement that will tick for 70 hours unassisted once fully wound. Still an under-the-radar brand in the UK, you’ll nonetheless find Glashütte Original in Harrods, Wempe and Watches of Switzerland. £10,500, glashuette-original.com

the Edit

One of the handful of watchmakers that constitute Germany’s contribution to mechanical timepieces, Glashütte Original takes its name from the bucolic village in which the company manufactures its own movements (ten of them to date, to be precise).

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no.

04

Blurred Lines

One of Leica’s best ever lenses

no.

03

There’s a lot that goes into a lens, especially a lens for a brand as famous and revered as German photographic juggernaut Leica. The Noctilux-M 75 mm f/1.25 ASPH, designed for Leica’s M range (which stands for Meßsucher, or ‘Rangefinder’), is one of its quickest yet, and is being lauded for not only its speed but its unique ‘bokeh’ – a term for the aesthetic quality of the blur that’s produced in out-of-focus areas of an image. The depth of focus with the Noctilux-M 75 mm f/1.25 ASPH is shallower than its closest cousins, allowing an even more precise isolation of subjects and resulting in some solid bokeh. Let the lens do the work. leica-camera.com

A proven theory

Adding that extra layer

One advantage of subscribing to the ‘New Year, New You’ mantra is that you can use it as an excuse to invest in a few new wardrobe staples. At this time of year, an extra layer goes a long way. Whether you call it a gilet or bodywarmer, this sleeveless garment serves a dual purpose: keeping you warm enough when braving the elements but not roasting like a turkey should your commute take you on the Underground. This example from NYC-based design house, Theory, provides you with two extra layers, and two wearable options: one side is a soft black wool blend, and the other is this wind-resistant burgundy shell fabric. It’s still lightweight enough to pair with a thick underlayer, like that new cable knit jumper you received for Christmas. £285, mrporter.com

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THE partnership

no.

05 Match made in Heaven

McLaren teams up with Pirelli to offer a new winter wheel and tyre set

Supercar supremo McLaren has paired with tyre partner Pirelli to deliver a new winter wheel and tyre package for its Sports Series models. The McLaren winter wheels and tyres set consists of four, 14-spoke lightweight wheels, fitted with Pirelli MC Sottozero 3 winter tyres and incorporates the McLaren tyre pressure monitoring system. Developed by McLaren and Pirelli engineers specifically for the Sports Series – the 540C, 570S, 570GT and new 570S Spider – the Pirelli MC Sottozero 3 tyres are branded with the ‘MC’ seal of approval. They provide the best possible grip by having a tread pattern design optimising drainage and are hardened for adverse weather: in comparison to summer tyres, the Sottozero 3 set can reduce cold-weather stopping distance by 10 per cent in the wet and 20 per cent on snowy roads. The McLaren winter wheels and tyres set is available now from official McLaren retailers across the UK

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1895

Berluti founded in Paris by Italian Alessandro Berlluti

Marche

Italian region famous for shoemaking and birthplace of Alessandro

1993

The brand is acquired by luxury goods conglomerate LVMH

Famous patrons Marcel Proust, Frank Sinatra, Yves Saint Laurent, Andy Warhol

2017

Named one of the best 16 companies to work for in the fashion industry

no.

06

best foot forward

berluti’s bespoke shoe service takes exclusivity to new heights

Following years of research, in 2003 Berluti perfected a technique for tattooing leather. An artisanal process, tattoos are created with a needle and pigments, point by point, by a specialised tattoo artist, inked directly on Berluti’s emblematic Venezia leather. To offer its clients ever more exclusivity, Berluti has since called upon Scott Campbell, the Brooklyn-based tattoo artist favoured by the likes of Marc

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Jacobs, Josh Hartnett, Orlando Bloom and Helena Christensen. For Berluti, Campbell has developed a series of exclusive tattoos that join the brand’s catalogue of existing designs, including graphic motifs, calligraphy, a reinterpreted bestiary, nods to rock ‘n’ roll, zodiac symbols and Chinese astrological signs.

In addition to the house’s tattoos catalogue, the client may also create their own designs. Next, customers choose the placement of the image and its patina: a lighter one lets the image pop; a darker one is more discreet. The tattoo may also be applied to the sole of a custom shoe. berluti.com

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the Edit THE shoes

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the cufflinks

Henry Deakin, managing director of Deakin & Francis

the Edit

no.

22

07

off the cuff

king of the cufflink, deakin & francis opens its first flagship

Deakin & Francis might have been producing jewellery and silverware for more than 230 years, but it’s fair to say that until recently the brand was fairly unknown to the man on the street. For while it manufactured some of the most innovative and high-grade cufflinks around, the company did so under the cloak of some of the most prestigious names in high fashion.

Then, in 2014, Deakin & Francis started a branding exercise; pushing its own boxes, lasering ‘Deakin & Francis’ onto the stems of each cufflink and approaching high-end retailers that wanted to take the company on as a brand in its own right. The move paid off. So much so that the cufflink creator has

now opened its very first flagship, in Mayfair’s Piccadilly Arcade. The boutique showcases the brand’s full cufflink offering, from its range of vitreous enamelled pieces to its 18ct gold collection. Remarkably, Deakin & Francis has remained a family affair for seven generations. deakinandfrancis.co.uk

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20/11/2017 22:54


[ MOVING BEYOND BLING ]

LOUIS Roederer As the creator of Cristal, Louis Roederer produces the world’s most fêted champagne. Following the recent launch of Cristal Vinothèque, president and CEO Frédéric Rouzaud discusses brand image, climate change and how he’s never paid for celebrity endorsement Words: James Lawrence

M

ade first for the Russian tsar in 1876, Louis Roederer’s Cristal is undoubtedly the most iconic champagne on the market today. Its striking label, wrapped in golden cellophane, is an obligatory sight at any A-list event, not least the wedding of Bernie Ecclestone’s daughter Tamara, who reportedly demanded more bottles than Louis Roederer could supply. The tsar was certainly bowled over by Roederer Champagne – in 1873, more than 25 per cent of the firm’s entire production was delivered to the Court of Alexander II. He subsequently requested a special cuvée (blend) in 1876, an intensely sweet champagne that was presented in a special bottle of clear crystal, which, ironically, proved unviable in the longer term as it could not withstand the considerable pressure. However, the Russian Revolution threw a major spanner in the works, and no Cristal was made between 1917 and 1927. It was matriarch Camille Olry-Roederer who resurrected the champagne, taking the bold decision to commercialise Cristal in 1928, and promote it outside the confines of royal households.

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Yet today this licence to print money is a sensitive topic at the brand’s headquarters, particularly when it’s suggested that celebrity association has been the overriding key to its success. “It’s important to emphasise that Louis Roederer has never paid for celebrity endorsement,” says owner Frédéric Rouzaud. “Of course, ever since the days of the tsar, Cristal has been a favourite of the aristocracy, but it’s the outstanding quality that has been key to its success, not our celebrity friends – if the quality wasn’t there, people would have stopped buying it long ago.” Indeed, sat in the magnificent château of the Rouzaud family – now used for entertaining guests – one detects a total

absence of bling, rather a seriousness and devotion to their work. Rouzaud’s right-hand man, chef de cave Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon, considers himself a “custodian of the soil”, and appears almost blissfully indifferent to the ‘fuss’ surrounding the brand. “People think of Cristal as the first prestige cuvée, when in actual fact it’s the first terroir wine of Champagne,” says Lecaillon. “My predecessor selected over 50 plots of the best vineyards as the raw materials for Cristal, a formula which remains unchanged today. Cristal is about quality first and foremost – the marketing comes second.” Listening thoughtfully, Rouzaud nevertheless concedes that the lure of Cristal today is still overwhelmingly the brand’s prestigious image, which is a tragedy as Cristal is one of the finest wines on earth. Yet one cannot deny its long history as an object of desire for the rich and famous – Rouzaud’s infamous interview with The Economist in 2006 is still talked about today. Asked whether Cristal’s association with the “bling lifestyle” might sully the brand, Rouzaud replied: “That’s a good

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| feature |

Frédéric Rouzaud

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question. But what can we do? We can’t forbid people from buying it.” Cue a well-publicised boycott by rapper Jay-Z, and accusations of racism on the part of Roederer’s then managing director. Nevertheless, it is clear that this historic house is keen to distance Cristal from the bling, and further emphasise the quality of what goes into every bottle. “People’s idea of luxury has changed in recent times; today people want authenticity, roots, truth and quality,” says Rouzaud. To that end, Roederer launched a new version of the brand – Cristal Vinothèque – in October 2017. The inaugural vintage is 1995 – a champagne that has been aged for 20 years in the Roederer cellars. He also believes that champagne is “increasingly finding its rightful place at the dinner table,” rather than its traditional role as a celebratory tipple. “One of the hallmarks of fine wine is an ability to age for many decades – something Cristal does effortlessly and gracefully,” says Lecaillon. “We launched this late-disgorged edition to further promote Cristal’s fine wine credentials, in the hope that people will perceive it less and less as a bling

brand, and more and more as a fine wine.” Interested buyers, however, should take note that just 48 bottles of brut are going to the UK, while a mere 400 bottles will be released worldwide, adding a certain poignancy to Roederer’s executive vicepresident, Michel Janneau’s comment that there will be just “a dusting of wine in each market.” The launch of Cristal Vinothèque is the latest in a long series of initiatives planned by sixthgeneration Frédéric Rouzaud – unlike most other major champagne firms, Louis Roederer has remained under family control. It has been making superlative champagne for well over a century, although it started life as Dubois Père et Fils, a textile business, in 1760. Of course, there have been setbacks: the Russian Revolution of 1917 dealt a serious blow to its business with the tsar, while the new regime had no intention of paying his outstanding bills. “Each new generation wants to do things differently from their parents and leave their mark on the business; I’m no different in this respect,” laughs Rouzaud. “I have many gradual changes planned at the house – we’re very interested in acquiring a property in Burgundy in the coming years, for example.” The owners have certainly been brilliant and savvy investors, which is exemplified

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ALL IM © Louis

Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon

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| city social |

“Each new generation wants to do things differently from their parents and leave their mark on the business; I’m no different in this respect” ALL IMAGES © Louis Roederer

by the purchase of Bordeaux estate, Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, in 2006. But business acumen and historical pedigree aside, just what makes Louis Roederer so widely admired by connoisseurs today? The house is unusual for a number of reasons, not least the fact that it owns more than 210 hectares of vineyards. This ensures that the grapes for Cristal and the vintage expressions come entirely from Roederer’s own land, something of a rarity in Champagne. Winemaker Lecaillon then selects only the finest grapes from his best plots to make Cristal – the high price being asked for a bottle permits a ruthless degree of selection, and no other champagne receives as much meticulous care and attention as Cristal. “At this champagne house, it all goes back to the land, despite the undeniable celebrity association that has helped to promote Cristal,” says Rouzaud.

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He continues: “We’re essentially farmers. That’s it. Terroir preservation is everything for us: we recently ceased using herbicides and are now the largest owner of organically farmed vineyards in Champagne. In addition, we are increasingly farming a portion of our total vineyard area bio-dynamically and intend to farm more in the coming years.” Of course, it would be easy to cynically dismiss such ‘good life’ sentiments as yet more marketing shenanigans, until one raises the topic of global warming and climate change. Here, both Rouzaud and Lecaillon are in complete agreement: “One of the biggest challenges now facing the champagne industry is managing the effects of climate change,” they chorus. Lecaillon cites the 2013 vintage as a taste of the challenges that may lie head, a year that threw every conceivable viticultural nightmare at grape growers: unseasonably late and uneven flowering, summer storm/hail damage and vine diseases all reared their ugly heads. “There is no doubt that coping with the vicissitudes of climate change is now one of our top priorities,” says Lecaillon. “That’s why we’ve invested so much time and effort in the vineyards. A healthy vine in balance, [which is easier to achieve when effecting biodynamic practices] is the best way to deal with climate change and what it may throw at us.” Champagne’s regulatory body, the Comité Champagne, would appear to agree – it has invested considerable sums into researching and anticipating the possible negative consequences of climate change. “The Champagne region was the first winegrowing region to collectively appreciate the need to address the global climate challenge over 13 years ago. We are dedicated to constantly building on our region-wide environmental initiatives to ensure champagne’s sustainability for future generations,” said Thibaut le Mailloux, director of communications at Comité Champagne. In the meantime, any long-time devotee of Roederer cannot deny that its considerable range of champagnes are on unparalleled form today – from the Rosé to the Blanc de Blancs, this family never misses a trick. However, connoisseurs have always understood the simple truth of Roederer, which is that the NV Brut Premier is the real star, an exceptional champagne available at less than £40. Of course, it comes with fewer bragging rights than Cristal, but discerning sybarites have never been interested in making a scene in a club. They buy for pleasure, not for attention, something that Roederer offers in generous abundance.

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fine wine W

hat makes a wine truly exceptional? It takes an ensemble of different elements – namely outstanding terroir, winemaking and historical pedigree – bound together in perfection, to forge something far greater than the sum of their parts. Latour is such a wine. Indeed, no other Bordeaux can match Latour for power, depth of flavour, and grandeur. Moreover, its historical pedigree is unparalleled; many now famous châteaux were no more than farms in the Middle Ages, but the seigneurie of Latour had vineyards as far back as the 14th century. The estate remained in the same family’s hands for several generations, until 1670 when François de Chavannes purchased Latour, leaving it to his niece. It then passed by marriage into the de Clauzel family. By the early 18th century, Latour was fetching the same price as Lafite in northern Europe, and by 1780 the English nobility were purchasing more than 80 per cent of Latour’s production. Yet no one bothered to build a fine chateau on the estate until 1864. As generation succeeded generation, the number of shareholders proliferated. By the 1950s, more than 65 investors had a stake in Latour’s future. A decade later, two British companies – Pearson and Harvey’s of Bristol – purchased controlling shares in Latour, entrusting a local wine broker, Jean-Paul Gardère, to run the estate. By the late 1980s, Pearson had become part of the larger Allied Lyons company, an outfit which ran into serious financial trouble in the early 1990s. So it was hardly unexpected when Allied Lyons sold Latour to a French industrialist (now chairman of Kering), FrançoisHenri Pinault, in 1993. Today, any aficionado who has been fortunate enough to sample older vintages will concede that in style, Latour has scarcely changed. It has always been renowned for its power, fullness, concentration and immense complexity. Like Château Lafite, it is an utter waste of time to drink Latour young – its owner’s private collection of ancient vintages proves that Latour can age gracefully for up to a century.

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One of the original four Grand Crus, Château Latour is eulogised for its power and pedigree. For the first time ever, the château has established a permanent base outside of Bordeaux within The Club at Four Seasons Ten Trinity Square Words: james lawrence

The problem with Latour, however, is managing to find any at a fair price. Rare, older vintages in particular are hard to come by, and usually only available at auction at considerable risk and expense – the old adage caveat emptor readily applies to buying wine at auction: if your Latour is corked, there is no refund. This brings me nicely onto the Ten Trinity Square Private Club, which opened in autumn this year to great acclaim. Its owners, for the first time in the estate’s history, have convinced Latour to lend its name away from the vineyards with the launch of the world’s only Château Latour Discovery Room.

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| city social |

The real beauty of this new partnership between Latour and Ten Trinity Square, is that it removes all the risk inherent to exploring the world of fine wine

It’s enough to make any oenophile salivate with glee; the club has assembled an impressive back catalogue of Latour vintages, including the legendary 1982, which are all displayed in state-of-the-art glass cases complete with temperature control. All of the vintages on offer have been take taken directly from the Latour cellars, so the provenance could not be called into question. In addition, one does not require any prior knowledge to enjoy this foray into luxury Bordeaux – master sommelier Jan Konetzki is on hand to guide you through the tasting, a former protege of Gordon Ramsay’s 3-Michelin-starred Royal Hospital Road. But the real beauty of this new partnership between Latour and Ten Trinity Square, is that it removes all the risk inherent to exploring the world of fine wine. Indeed, few non-baptised wine lovers would risk thousands on a potential disappointment, whereas the Discovery room offers more than 30 different Latour vintages by the

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Jan Konetzki

glass, with no further commitment if you’re not smitten (which is highly unlikely). Canapés served from the hotel’s Michelin-starred restaurant, La Dame de Pic, are the icing on the cake, allowing you explore this fabled wine’s charms in luxurious comfort and ease. Only members of The Club have access to the Château Latour Discovery Room. To apply, visit club.tentrinitysquare.com

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Review

City Social

Keeping the Epicure nourished with the latest launches and culinary crazes

The Don, ec4

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A City institution has had a 21st- Century revamp

The Don is old-school City, harking back to the days when no one lived in the area – the restaurant still closes for the weekend, and is hidden away in a courtyard down St Swithin’s Lane. The venue used to be the London warehouse of George Sandeman’s eponymous port and sherry operation, which shipped fortified wine across the Atlantic from Porto and Jerez to blend and bottle in London. The restaurant is actually named after Don, the figure on the company’s logo, bedecked in a Spanish hat and Portuguese student’s cape. This is where the history lesson ends, and we land smack-bang in the present. Frederick Forster was, earlier this year, named as new executive head chef. Forster is one of only a handful of chefs to have won both National Chef of the Year and the feted Roux Scholarship, the second of which while he was head chef at The Ritz, under the tutelage of John Williams (himself a chef-of-the-year winner). Having re-launched Pont de la Tour, The Don is his latest project and he’s wasted no time in revamping the menu, developing a modern European offering that already feels established. I went along with a trader friend of mine, to see if his City sensibilities would be sated. Try the

warm Portland crab with spiced bisque to start lightly, followed by the roast quail with braised mushrooms and maple parsnips for a sweet/savoury main. I finished with the soufflé, always a good test of a chef ’s skills, and obviously done masterfully by Forster’s team. My guest tried the pineapple carpaccio with coconut sorbet and caramelised marshmallow, which turned out to be a surprising highlight of the meal. The wine list has won a Wine Spectator Award for being one of the best in the world every year since the restaurant opened, and it’s not hard to see why, as the ‘wine walls’ can attest to the care the sommeliers have taken in curating the collection. It would have been remiss for us not to try the cheese cart’s wares, with our waiter giving us more information about each cheese than is reasonable to remember. One particularly interesting titbit was that some of the cheese on offer was actually praised by Napoleon as a meat substitute for his troops, therefore keeping morale high. Morale is obviously high at The Don. Service is impeccable, friendly and welcoming, and hopefully once the front is refurbished, more of us will get to enjoy this hidden gem just off St Swithin’s Lane. DT St Swithin’s Lane, EC4, thedonrestaurant.com

Some of the cheese on offer was actually praised by Napoleon as a meat substitute for his troops

THE DON

CANNON ST

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| news |

Purveyor of some of the best fried chicken in London, Butchies, has opened its first permanent site in Shoreditch butchies.co.uk

Chicken comes first

New & noteworthy vintry & mercer, EC4

Set to open at the start of 2018, Vintry & Mercer is a hotel inspired by two of London’s historic trading guilds, the Vintry Guild (wine, established 1364) and the Mercer Guild ( fine fabrics, 1304). The Vintry Guild is certainly alive and well, with three distinct wining and dining destinations: the Mediterranean Vintry Kitchen, British-sourced Mercer Roof Terrace, and Do Not Disturb, a speakeasy-style basement bar. 19-20 Garlick Hil, vintryandmercer.com

FLOUR & GRAPE, SE1

jackson + rye

with garlic butter and fries; and the all-American pecan pie with caramel ice cream and a bourbon maple syrup. Of course, a New York brasserie wouldn’t be complete without a solid cocktail list, so you can expect the classics alongside more novel serves, such as the spicy Illegal Negroni (mezcal, antica formula and Campari). They’ll be served to you from each venue’s statement, centrepiece bar. Get a taste of the Big Apple in the Big Smoke. jacksonrye.com

New Bermondsey Italian restaurant Flour & Grape aims to provide a quality, pared-down pasta menu alongside a thoughtful wine list. A handful of pastas are on offer, with 25 wines brought in to complement your choice of food. The smaller menu doesn’t mean the plates aren’t bold: dishes include homemade ricotta with beetroot and pork tenderloin with tonnato. There’s also a counter at the front serving freshly made pasta and sauces to go alongside a good selection of those wines. flourandgrape.com

New York brasserie chain Jackson + Rye has undergone a complete menu shift. The Art Deco, Manhattan-inspired interiors of all six restaurants are now home to classic Mediterranean brasserie flavours with an American twist, such as burrata served with smoky tomato relish and walnut gremolata; herbmarinated half roast chicken

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| feature |

A raft of universities are deserting masters of business administration courses, citing a lack of demand from employers. Yet surveys often reveal a significant salary hike for MBA holders. So, what’s the reality and how is the business education landscape changing? Words: Dan Hayes

W

hen King’s College London opened its business school in November 2015 it chose not to offer an MBA (masters of business administration) course. In business education circles that raised some eyebrows, especially as it followed recent decisions by several US universities, notably Iowa and Wake Forest (in North Carolina), to call time on their own full-time MBA programmes. Speaking to the Financial Times, Stephen Bach, dean of King’s Business School, explained the MBA was not where the university felt it should be focusing its efforts. Instead, it would be concentrating on masters degrees essentially for younger students who

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employers would find more immediately ‘malleable’. "What we are hearing from employers and some of our advisory group members is that companies are looking for talent at an earlier stage," Bach commented. So, is the clock ticking for MBAs? Are they really, as the FT also suggested, the business education equivalent of taking the Grand Tour in an era of Airbnb; rather splendid for a lucky few, but not particularly practical for the vast majority? Professor James Hayton, associate dean of Warwick Business School’s London campus, is not convinced. "The Grand Tour is a colourful metaphor, and yes it was an elitist way to learn about the world, but the key characteristic about it was that you had a guide. With Airbnb you do it yourself," he says. He points out that his own institution (based within the lofty precincts of The Shard) has seen a steady rise in applications for its MBA courses over the past five years. "We’re increasing the numbers of

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places [on the full-time MBA] from 80 to 120 next year," he adds. "And we’re seeing students coming from all over the world to take part in it. Despite the uncertainties of Brexit, for example, we’re not seeing a decline in demand and, indeed, the global workplace is demonstrating an increasing need for leadership, management skills and an understanding of finance." That bullish outlook is not quite the whole story, however. Business schools worldwide are finding themselves having to adapt both to a highly competitive educational market and to ever-changing global economic realities. Gareth Howells, executive director of the MBA, Masters in Finance and Early Career programmes at the London Business School (LBS), explains: "The size and shape of the graduate management education industry has changed significantly in recent times. The MBA remains the dominant player, but in terms of its overall share of the market it has reduced in the past 10 years. "There is now much more choice for students and we have seen the rise of specialist masters programmes , which typically tend to be shorter in length and to attract a younger set of students." Indeed, in Europe at least, those signing up for the latter type of qualification tend to be either fresh from their first degree, or with just a year or two of work experience under their belt – in clear contrast to the classic MBA target audience of seasoned professionals in their thirties and forties. LBS is reacting to such developments by increasing the numbers on both its MBA and specialist masters programmes, Howells adds. "A business school is nothing if it doesn’t reflect the way the world does business," he explains. "Whether that is an MBA or a specialist masters, you have to be confident you are producing graduates who have the skills and knowledge to be successful." Determined to keep its metaphorical finger on the pulse, LBS recently conducted a major review of its MBA programme, talking to alumni, employers and recruiters to nail down the skills and knowledge graduates need to be successful in the modern world. Howells says: "A lot of the feedback focused on digital competencies. It wasn’t that employers expected everyone to graduate knowing everything about artificial intelligence and machine learning, it was more they had to demonstrate awareness of the impact of digital across multiple sectors." Recruiters also expected business graduates to be capable of putting theory into practice – and quickly. "That was an overwhelming factor," adds Howells. "A potential criticism of business schools is that they focus too much on the theory. Yes, businesses want people with that knowledge, but they also want them

“There’s uncertainty in the job market combined with uncertainty in terms of the impact of the MBA in your career acceleration”

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to put it into practice. They told us they wanted our graduates to be even more ‘plug and play’; ready to make an immediate impact and to be comfortable with [ factors such as] ambiguity and disruption." Other business schools have also been bringing innovation to the courses they offer. Andrew Angus, MBA course director at Cranfield University’s School of Management, says his establishment witnessed something of a decline in applicants for its MBA in 2016, possibly in the wake of political uncertainty in the UK, but that numbers have bounced back in 2017, partly fuelled by a shakeup in its programme. "For example, we’ve recently launched an MBA with an energy specialism," he explains:. “Our alumni are telling us that there’s a need for talented managers in industries such as energy, aerospace and engineering. So the message we’re seeing is one perhaps of providing specialisations within an MBA format, but not moving away from MBAs to MSCs or other types of education." In 2017,Cranfield joined forces with professional services firm Grant Thornton to provide an executive MBA under the government’s recently introduced Apprenticeship Levy.

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| feature |

Top 10 business schools in the UK*

1

The Financial Times provides annual rankings of business schools along with the average weighted salary for graduates three years after finishing their MBA (in US dollars).

University of Cambridge Judge Business School

$164,462

2

London Business School

$154,567

4

3 University of Manchester

Alliance Manchester Business School

$130,535

University of Oxford

5

Saïd Business School

$139,325

City University

Cass Business School

$127,110

7

9 Cranfield University

Cranfield School of Management

$123,773

10

Durham University Business School

*

Financial Times, 2017

$104,321

Warwick Business School

Lancaster University Management School

$112,702

$114,220

8 Imperial College Business School

$112,865

This has proved extremely popular, says Angus: "We’ve seen a huge increase in our executive MBA applications because it’s given our UK-based MBA students an option where they can stay in their job and have their employer fund their MBA." Dr Paolo Taticchi, director of part-time MBA programmes at Imperial College, London, is another who has witnessed rapid developments in the sector over the past decade. "There is a global trend that shows a decline in full-time MBAs," he says. "It’s not a trend everywhere and it’s not a trend in the top business schools in the UK, but it is a trend." He suggests, in particular, that times have not been easy for middle-ranked players. "My view is that the market changed substantially after the financial crisis of 2007-2008," he continues. "People considering a full-time MBA have to think about the course fee – very often it’s pretty expensive. On top of that they have to give up their job , and the job market is not what it was before 2007. There’s uncertainty in the job market combined with uncertainty in terms of the impact of the MBA on your career acceleration – the break-even on the investment tends to be longer than it was in the past."

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In contrast, online MBAs are rising in popularity, thanks not only to their flexibility, but also because they increasingly offer substantial aspects of the peer-to-peer networking that was always a selling point of full-time qualifications. Taticchi explains: "If you compare someone on a residential programme with someone studying online, of course the amount of interaction is different, but it’s not 100 per cent versus zero per cent. Interaction takes place in a different form. For example, in our online MBA programme we have students working together on projects virtually on a daily basis." That type of collaboration provides valuable realism, he adds. "It mirrors the reality of a large corporation, where you may be working in teams across different regions. Such interaction can be extremely valuable because it teaches students how to engage, to inspire and to network online." However, while he sees full-time MBAs losing an element of market share to part-time and online programmes, Taticchi says he’s still not convinced by King’s College Business School’s reasons for not offering an MBA programme at all. "If it’s true, then we should expect Harvard Business School to close the doors in due course and I don’t believe that is going to happen," he says. Instead, Taticchi points to the barriers to entry facing a new provider. "In big cities, in particular, there is still a market for full-time MBAs, but it’s very competitive. The top institutions are very strong brands, they have long experience of offering MBAs and a proven ability to capture the market. Institutions such as Imperial, LBS and Cass [Business School] are very comfortable with what they are doing. We see a sector that’s growing, but it’s very hard for others to enter such a crowded market."

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style f ine wat che s | sh a rp sui t s | pre mium pe ns | l u x ur y l ugg a ge

Café du Cycliste

The London flagship of Nice-based cycling style brand Café du Cycliste has opened in East London, the company’s first store outside the Côte d’Azur. Café du Cycliste is dedicated to taking a classic French cycling aesthetic and adding transitional elements such as merino wool and padded quilting, making it perfect for urban riding and living.

32 Artillery Lane, Spitalfields, cafeducycliste.com

Darkest Hour (p.44)

a sartorial guide to gary oldman’s oscar-tipped Churchill biopic

man of the moment (p.48)

oliver cheshire shows why he’s destined to be Britain’s next male supermodel

tumi transformed (p.62)

The creative lead who made a lifestyle brand out of the luggage specialist


| style |

A ROYALLY GOOD DIAMOND

Official jeweller to Her Majesty The Queen, Mappin & Webb is renowned for timeless fine jewellery and silverware. The new MW collection features its brightest diamond yet, cut with 75 facets. The prestigious gem has been set in 17 tailor-made pieces, including engagement rings, earrings and pendants, all of which twinkle with tradition and regal elegance. £POA, mappinandwebb.com

jewellery

Glittering new jewels to brighten up January Words: MHAIRI GRAHAM

Fine Feathers

Banish January blues with resplendent curiosities by Of Rare Origin. The American jeweller launched in 2016 and caused an instant stir stateside for its ornamental Aviary collection, featuring dainty, handcrafted birds perched in 18-carat yellow gold vermeil cages. The colourful collection is now available on Net-a-Porter and selling out quicker than you can say fly. From £1,055, net-a-porter.com

GRACEFUL GARNETS

The birthstone of January, the fiery garnet is gloriously beguiling and synonymous with deep affection and devotion. The powerful gem comes in myriad of designs this season, whether strung on a rose gold chain by Pomellato or dramatically fashioned on a glittering cocktail ring by Buccellati. Cocktail ring, £POA, buccellati.com; serpent ring, £1,245, percossipapistore.com; M’ama non M’ama necklace, £1,610, pomellato.com

PURR-FECT RINGS

A GLIMMER OF HOPE

The new collection from emerging fine jeweller Patcharavipa takes its cue from the Japanese ginkgo leaf, symbolic of vitality, hope and peace. Available at Dover Street Market, select from bold, geometrical shapes handcrafted in 18-karat gold, spanning earrings, bracelets and necklaces. From £1,300, patcharavipa.com

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Whether worn individually or stacked up your fingers, Ara Vartanian’s vivacious new cat rings are both fun and sophisticated. Multi-coloured designs combine an 18-karat yellow gold band with rubies, sapphires and diamonds. From £2,500, aravartanian.com

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Shoulderskimming earrings When speaking to designers and industry insiders, one opinion was unanimous: 2018 is going to be an ear party. Take lobe dressing up a notch with shoulder-skimming, dramatic drop designs by Chanel, David Morris and Diane Kordas. While this trend undoubtedly completes a cocktail dress, we like it best when elevating low-key, daytime looks. Clockwise FROM RIGHT: Star Chain Earrings, £3,215, dianekordasjewellery.com; Three Row Illusion Earrings, £POA, davidmorris.com; My Chain Earrings, £20,750, Signature De Saphir earrings, £POA, both chanel.com

trend Curated ears, swinging pendants and punk-infused Words: MHAIRI GRAHAM

Going green It is all about going green for 2018, symbolically and literally, as the secondary colour undergoes a luxurious transformation. ‘Avocado green’ has been cited as the next ‘millennial pink’, while electric lime shades populate the spring collections. Embrace verdant fine jewellery including bright olive peridots from Delfina Delettrez, rich emeralds at James Ganh and Pomellato’s juicy tourmalines. Clockwise FROM LEFT: Pastorale Anglaise ring, £POA, chaumet.com; Les Bles earrings chanel.com; emerald ring, £POA, jamesganh.com; Mama non m’ama ring, £980, pomellato.com; emerald earrings, £30,650, Amrapali at net-a-porter.com; Seal bracelet and earrings by Delfina Delletrez, £2090, £3045, doverstreetmarket.com

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| style |

Extra-long necklaces As the roaring twenties continues a style revival, embrace elegant, navel-grazing pendants in 2018. Reach for spectacular swingers from Cartier and Chopard, while Van Cleef & Arpels, the original purveyor of pendants, continues to spearhead the trend with gleaming clusters strung on lustrous chains. “The glamorous long drop pendant is popular again,” comments Burlington Arcade jeweller Susannah Lovis. “We love the versatility of a piece that can be worn over a jumper during the day but can dangle seductively between the seams of a low cut dress in the evening.”

Modern pearls Forget dowdy pearl twin sets and button earrings – the world’s oldest treasure continues its contemporary transformation. We like sophisticated, cool iterations by Yoko London and Mizuki, both of which seamlessly fashion the freshwater fancy with diamonds and gold. Another pearly queen is Polish designer Magda Butrym, who crafts pearl drop earrings, bracelets and chokers, finished with a chic silk ribbon tie.

opposite, FROM L-r: Amulette de Cartier necklace, £58,000, cartier.com; Bouton d’Or Pendant, £30,300, Magic Alhambra Pendant, £5,350, vancleefarpels.com

Clockwise FROM top left: Pearl choker, £509, earrings, £827, magdabutrym.com; bracelet, £2,500, yokolondon.com, Mizuki ring, £1250, doverstreetmarket.com

set ting precious jewels . The trends to take on in 2018

Punk accents Pick ‘n’ mix earrings Join the singles club by dressing your ears with an abundance of characterful designs. This offbeat trend is nothing new, but with a slew of designers specialising in mismatched earrings, the humble lobe is transforming into a diamondstudded work of art. Loquet London’s Talisman collection, launching in February, is made up of 14-carat diminutive gold hoop earrings with detachable charms, bespoke to the wearer and designed to be worn mismatched. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Moon and shooting star charm, both £260, loquetlondon.com; Croissant Amelia, £2,320, Sophie Bille Brahe, doverstreetmarket.com; Diorama Précieuse earrings, £12,600, dior.com; Button Back Hoops, £2,600, jessicamccormack.com

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Rock ’n’ roll diamonds might sound like a juxtaposition, but nothing exudes insouciant elegance like styling denim with contemporary precious stones. Case in point, Pia Hallstrom’s twinkling spiked Pyramid bracelets, worn individually or stacked up the arm. Messika’s modern collections are equal parts rock and romanticism, restyling safety pins and biker chains in glittering diamonds and 18-carat gold. Look out for a second collaboration between the French jeweller and Gigi Hadid in 2018.

CLOCKWISE, FROM top: Sleeping Beauty ring set, £3,410, stoneparis.com; Move Anniversary Earrings, £19,600, messika.com; Pyramid bracelet, £4900, piahallstrom.com

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fine mechanical watchmaking, from japan.

Trimatic symbolizes three Seiko inventions that ensure the highest levels of reliability and durability in its mechanical watches.


| style |

OFFSHORE INVESTMENT

In 1972, the Royal Oak announced itself as the world’s first luxury sports watch. Conceived for Audemars Piguet by watch designer Gerald Genta, the model laid down the design codes for a whole new genre of timepiece. Two decades later, in 1993, a chronograph function was introduced to the Royal Oak to give us the Royal Oak Offshore. Now, to mark the model’s 25th year, Audemars Piguet presents three new versions: a re-edition of the original Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph, as well as an Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph in either stainless steel or 18-carat pink gold. audemarspiguet.com

WATCHES

celebrating the delightful & the divine from the world of haute horology Words: richard brown

AN INSTANT CLASSIC

Few are the Swiss watch brands that remain independently owned. Fewer still are those that continue to be controlled by their founding families. Carl F. Bucherer is one example. Perhaps that’s why the Swiss national football team chose the company as its Official Timekeeper in 2016. Relatively unknown in the UK, Carl F. Bucherer raised its profile last year when parent company Bucherer acquired The Watch Gallery – the company behind the Wonder Room in Selfridges. The brand’s star looks set to continue to rise thanks to such fine-looking timepieces as the 43mm Manero Flyback. Originally launched in 2016, the vintage-inspired chronograph houses an automatic column-wheel movement and is now available in 18-carat red gold or stainless steel. carl-f-bucherer.com

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IT’S SUPER COMPLICATED

Tracing an unbroken lineage all the way back to 1755, Vacheron Constantin claims to be the world’s oldest continually-operating watch company. Flaunting the sort of horologic handiness that’s accrued over twoand-a-half centuries, in 2015 the Swiss brand announced the Reference 57260. Comprising 57 complications, it became the most complex wristwatch ever created. Vacheron then presented Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600. Featuring 23 (mainly astronomical) complications, the model tells three types of time: civil time (GMT); solar time (based on the position of the sun); and sidereal time (according to earth’s relation to specific constellations). For this, the watch was awarded the Mechanical Exception Prize at the 2017 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. vacheron-constantin.com

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[ STYLE ON SET ]

FIGURE As Second World War blockbuster Darkest Hour hits

the silver screen and tensions mount for the coming awards season,

OF Marianne Dick talks to Oscar-winning costume designer

Jacqueline Durran about London’s starring role

SPEECH 44


Oldman image ©2017 Focus Features LLC, All rights reserved


One of Sir Winston Churchill’s most famous quotes is “my tastes are simple: I am easily satisfied with the best”. Yet, less than half an hour into director Joe Wright’s new film Darkest Hour, which focuses on Churchill’s (played by Gary Oldman) first five weeks as prime minister in 1940, it is quite apparent that his tastes were, in fact, very specific and unconventional. His unusual routine – such as his penchant for alcohol with every meal (including breakfast), and a nap at 4pm every day – plus his occasional brutish nature, made Churchill unpopular. Meanwhile, opposition from within his own cabinet about his decision not to negotiate with Nazi Germany made his job as prime minister at such a crucial time in British history even more of a struggle. Darkest Hour dramatises Churchill’s personal battle within the wider context of the war, and explores sides that are often forgotten – such as his problems with depression. Writer Anthony McCarten (The Theory of Everything) once again brings humanity to a renowned figure, for whom myth often precedes truth. Another reason why Churchill remains so recognisable is his distinct sense of style – although it may not have been simple, he certainly chose the best. He shopped for his attire mostly in St. James’s and Mayfair, where he conducted secret meetings in his makeshift war bunker in the disused Down Street underground station. The area became the starting point for sourcing Oldman’s wardrobe for the film, which was put together by costume designer Jacqueline Durran, whose previous work with Wright includes Atonement and Anna Karenina, for which she won an Academy Award in 2013. “I think it was about trying to make the most authentic picture of Churchill. We wanted, if we could, to tap into the skills that were there when he bought clothes from those suppliers,” she says. “We decided right from the beginning that we didn’t want to stylise it... we wanted to keep quite close to the reality. A lot of the references were photographs of

46

A throng of hats is displayed beautifully on the wall in a scene in which Churchill is selecting which style to wear. He ponders aloud which version of himself he should be that day

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| feature |

the actual people; it’s rare to work on a film where everyone is so photographed.” While Churchill had more than one tailor, for Darkest Hour Oldman was measured up by Henry Poole & Co. The Savile Row tailor still offers the chalk stripe fabric that was made especially for the prime minister – it is even woven in the same Fox Brothers mill. Henry Poole also made Ben Mendelsohn’s costumes for the character of King George VI: the naval suit and the classic blue ensemble. One of Churchill’s most famous garments was the siren suit he designed himself – he coined them his ‘rompers’. They were effectively boiler suits, but Churchill had them made in an array of fabrics and colours for every occasion, most notably in green velvet by Turnbull & Asser. Unfortunately, the siren suit doesn’t appear in the film, however Turnbull & Asser was called on to make shirts and that familiar spotty bow tie. Just around the corner from Turnbull & Asser is Lock & Co Hatters of 6 St. James’s Street, which made Churchill’s vast selection of headwear. In Darkest Hour, a throng of hats is displayed beautifully on the wall in a scene where he is selecting which style to wear. Oldman’s Churchill ponders aloud which version of himself he should be that day. Elsewhere, Breguet recreated the No. 765 pocket watch for the film, which was affectionately called ‘the turnip’ by Churchill and his family. In the book Breguet: Art & Innovation in Watchmaking it is noted: “In 1946, according to the Breguet records, Breguet offered the British leader the complete refurbishment of his watch ‘in homage to the role he played during the war’. In return, Churchill gave Breguet a copy of his book Into

clockwise from left Oldman ©Universal Pictures International; Oldman, image ©2017 Focus Features LLC, All rights reserved; suit by Henry Poole;Oldmanimage©2017Focus Features LLC, All rights reserved; James image, both images ©Universal Pictures International

Battle, with an inscription to Breguet by the author.” There are few scenes in the film where Oldman isn’t smoking, or at least holding, a cigar; in fact, it is how we are first introduced to his character. He lights one up in bed and the flame illuminates his face. In preparation for the role, Oldman visited the James J. Fox cigar shop where Churchill was a regular customer, and spoke to store manager and master of Habanos, Dirk Seyfried. “One of the customary cigar sizes for Cuban cigars is called ‘Churchill’ and the size is always a seven-inch 47 ring gauge, which is pretty big, certainly in length,” says Seyfried. “It was all about finding the perfect aesthetic of cigar size to hand, as well as the shade. The Romeo y Julieta ‘Churchill’ is synonymous with the man himself, but Mr Oldman tried a few cigars with a slight variation in size. His attention to detail for the role was impressive.” One aspect of Churchill’s costume where Durran had room to exercise some creative license was his nightwear. “In the pictures he wears a dressing gown that has a bold Chinese dragon pattern on it,” says Durran. “We decided not to try and reproduce that exact pattern but to do something in the spirit of it, in a colour that would be more in keeping with the film. We actually don’t know what colour that dressing gown was because there are only black and white pictures.” In the film, Churchill’s nightwear is a pale, satiny pink. When it came to introducing colour to scenes where many of the photographic references were in black and white, and in a world that was very ‘make do and mend’, Durran took inspiration from the photographer Gisèle Freund. “She had a very muted palette in a lot of her pictures, but there were some quite definite colours within that,” the designer explains. In its entirety, Oldman’s transformation in the film is quite extraordinary. The actor approached special effects artist Kazuhiro Tsuji personally and told him he would only take on the role if Tsuji was on board. Oldman, Wright, Tsuji and Durran then spent six months experimenting and developing the various components that made up the character, before they even began filming. “I went to America twice to see Gary before he arrived in London to start work on the film,” says Durran. “I think once we started to see the silhouette of Churchill come together – with the prosthetic, costume, stance, cane and all the other things – that was the highlight for me.” Darkest Hour is a celebration of British eccentricity and a rousing example of how individuality and conviction can triumph, even in the gloomiest of times. In a world full of dark suits, Churchill shone magnificently. ‘Darkest Hour’ is in cinemas from 12 January

47


Leather jacket, £950, Sandro, sandro-paris.com; Endurance 88 glasses, £675, Dita Eyewear, dita.com; Orange nappa leather gloves, £185, Dunhill, dunhill.com; Black tie, £POA, Caruso, carusomenswear.com; Ski trousers, £425, Moncler Grenoble, moncler. com; Endurance jacket, £1,425, Shackleton, shackletoncompany.com; White shirt, £175, Richard James, richard-james.com


on the slopes with

oliver cheshire Taking après ski chic to a whole other piste photography: alexander beer stylist: steven doan words: richard brown


Velvet smoking jacket, £3,250 and velvet tuxedo trouser, £870, both Berluti, berluti.com; Leather plexi jacket, £1,230, AMI, amiparis.com; Helmet, £POA, Tommy Hilfiger x Rossignol, tommy.com; Black bow tie, £95, and black nappa leather gloves, £185, both Dunhill, dunhill. com; Traditional fit point collar dress shirt, £225, Brooks Brothers, brooksbrothers.com; Goggles, £75, Adidas, rxsport.co.uk

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| style |

Despite the rise of the manscaping, selfie-taking uber-metrosexual, the fact remains: there are less than a handful of male ‘super’ models. Models, that is, who could walk into a boozer outside of metropolitan, appearance-obsessed London and cause red-blooded blokes to look up from their pints and whisper to their pals, ‘blow me, that’s…bla bla!’. When the blue-eyed boy from Billericay fronted a Dolce & Gabbana campaign in nothing but a pair of budgie-smugglers, he hit blast off on a career trajectory towards mainstream stardom (thanks, in part, to a contract with Marks & Spencer). Yet despite social media creating an influencer out of every @tomdickandharry, for years Mr David Gandy

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existed in a league of his own. Then came a chisel-jawed fella from Hitchin, who was scouted at 15, whisked away to New York at 16 and cast by Calvin Klein Jeans alongside a Russian supermodel named Natalia Vodianova. Hailed as “the new Leonardo DiCaprio” by Select Model Management co-founder Tandy Anderson, Mr Oliver Cheshire went on to work with Vivienne Westwood, Missoni and Paul Smith. An engagement to a pop star called Pixie Lott followed in 2016. He proposed on the steps of St Paul’s Cathedral. She said “yes” and posted on Instagram: ‘so happy – biggest surprise ever’. Following in the footsteps of Gandy – his Select agency stable mate – Cheshire has shot for D&G, launched a line with M&S and become an ambassador for Jaguar Land Rover. Last summer, the soon-to-be-30-year-old added ‘all-action hero’ to his curriculum vitae when, outside the Natural History Museum, he wrestled to the ground an out-of-control cab driver and helped suppress him until the local constabulary arrived. When did Gandy ever do that? Touted as the everyman of modelling – in addition to high-fashion brands, he’s helped boost sales for Gap and Superdry – Cheshire is known for being one of the most down-to-earth faces in fashion. He uses the word ‘mate’ and talks with a Thames Estuary accent. Having entered the public vernacular, and with his star continuing to rise, we sent Britain’s next male supermodel to the snowy slopes of Tignes. Where better to present the latest in party wear? Have you chosen what you’ll be wearing down the aisle? I haven’t fully decided on which brand I’ll be wearing yet, but it’s either going to be a beautifully tailored British M&S suit – which will be in keeping with the British theme – or I’ll go Italian in a Dolce & Gabbana tuxedo. Both brands have been huge supporters of mine and have become like friends and family.

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Satin trim London tux jacket, £1,340, Dsquared2, dsquared2. com; Original hat, £45, Hunter, hunterboots.com; Cotton rollneck, £POA, Moncler Grenoble, moncler. com; Checked sweater vest, £450, Marni, marni.com; Trousers, £375, Dunhill, dunhill.com; Goggles, £85, Adidas, rxsport.co.uk; High Five snowboard, £464, Endeavor, tignes-spirit-rentals.com


| style |

What’s the key to longevity in modelling? To be successful you need to get rebooked on jobs with the same clients. You have to have the ability to adapt with the times and changes in the industry, pretty much like any job. It’s very important to be versatile with your look. How did it feel to become an ambassador for British powerhouses Marks & Spencer and Jaguar Land Rover? I’m extremely lucky to work with two of the country’s most famous and amazing brands. I remember from a young age always wanting to own a Jag – now my dream has come true! Which sort of brands do you most enjoy working with? I love working with brands which have an energy and excitement about them, always pushing boundaries in menswear. You helped both Marks & Spencer and Superdry achieve record sales. How did that make you feel? It’s always nice to hear things you work hard on achieving their goals.

mr c h e sh i re’ s fav ouri t e... CIT Y: NYC RE STAUR AN T: ROKA B AR : GROUCHO CLUB HO L I D AY D E STI NATIO N : DOMES NORUZ CHANIA, CRETE ST Y L E ICO N : RYAN GOSLING

How has the male modelling industry changed over the course of your career? Many things have changed since I started. For a start, there’s now GPS on your phone which makes castings a lot easier. It’s all about social media numbers now, with clients always asking the question ‘how many followers?’ Advertising budgets have shrunk as more is being spent on social media campaigns. This has given models with a larger number of followers more power in their own right.

Do you run your own social media accounts? How much time do you spend on social media each day? I do run my own social media accounts. I usually spend about two hours a day on it, but I’m finding it increasingly more boring. You travel a lot for work. How do you stay in shape? Travelling and staying in shape are part of the job description, so it’s important to get loads of sleep, and the cliché of drinking lots of water. I also always take healthy snacks on long-haul flights. What’s special about British style? Britain is the home of tailoring and we still have the number one destination for suiting: Savile Row. We’re also not shy about taking risks when it comes to fashion and that is why many trends and generations of style and fashion were born here; the whole 60s movement. The mods. The rockers. Punk. Would you like to design a fashion collection yourself ? It’s always been a dream of mine to design my own fashion collection. I’m actually in the process of designing one, which should be ready for summer.

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Staplefield zip jumper, £130, | style | Belstaff, belstaff.co.uk; Striped double breasted suit, £POA, Caruso, carusomenswear.com; Insulated commando boots, £135, Hunter, hunterboots. com; Helmet, £POA, bTommy Hilfiger x Rossignol, tommy. com; iBlack bow tie, £95 and black nappa leather gloves, £185, both Dunhill, dunhill.com

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| style |

Navy leather jacket, £2,910, Billionaire, billionairecouture. com; White shirt, £175, Richard James, richard-james. com; 3 Stripes handmade tie, £150, Asprey, asprey.com; Wool trousers, £585, Dsquared2, dsquared2.com; Navy knit cardigan, £550, Dunhill, dunhill.com; Sunglasses, £180, Projekt Produkt, en.projektprodukt.co.kr

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Black merino blouson with Rex Rabbit fur collar, £1,695, and black nappa leather gloves, £185, both Dunhill, dunhill.com; Beverly suit, £1,690, Dsquared2, dsquared2.com; Goggles, £75, Adidas, rxsport.co.uk; Explore E-Rise 80 skis, £400, Elan, tignes-spirit-rentals.com; Advant Edge 105 ski boots, £265, Head, tignes-spiritrentals.com

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| style |

Velvet waistcoat, £POA, Berluti, berluti.com; Navy wool suit, £950, Dsquared2, dsquared2.com; Black satin bow tie, £95, Dunhill, dunhill.com; Traditional fit point collar dress shirt, £115, Brooks Brothers, brooksbrothers.com; Explore E-Rise 80 skis, £400, Elan, tignes-spirit-rentals.com; Advant Edge 105 ski boots, £265, Head, tignes-spirit-rentals.com 58

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Dark blue suit, £2,090, Billionaire, billionairecouture.com; Tie, £95, Richard James, richard-james.com; Duffle coat, £739, Sandro, sandro-paris.com; Insulated commando boots, £135, Hunter, hunterboots.com; White shirt, £175, Richard James, richard-james.com

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fine pens and dandy diaries to keep your social life in check

It’s a date 60

dear diary

“Once a person uses one of our diaries they never let it down...or should I say...it never lets them down” – Nellie Smythson, 1942

Handcrafted in fine leather and bound in England, Smythson’s 2018 diaries come in new winter berry, storm blue, silver and oyster hues. The company’s artisans can add your initials using traditional gold-stamping techniques. Mara Panama diary, £65; Mara Soho diary, £175; Portobello Diary, £180; smythson.com

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| STYLE |

2. Pen of the Year Imperium Romanum rollerball pen, £3,750, Graf von Faber-Castell, stonegift.com 3. Game of Thrones Baratheon fountain pen, £220, montegrappa.co.uk 4. Ianthe diary, £50, libertylondon.com 5. Leather diary in Deer Saffiano, £55, aspinaloflondon.com 6. Heritage Rouge & Noir Tropic Brown special edition fountain pen, £655, montblanc.com 7. Large weekly planner, £17.99, moleskine.com

7

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[ Question & Answer ]

victor sanz As creative director of TUMI, Victor Sanz has been instrumental in transforming the luggage specialist from go-to choice of the corporate traveller to all-round lifestyle brand favoured by Formula One drivers Interview: Richard Brown

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aving majored in Industrial Design at Pratt Institute, NYC, Victor Sanz became an awardwinning product designer at Kodak. On joining TUMI in 2003, Sanz was tasked with attracting a younger audience and injecting a fresh perspective into the brand. The Maryland native was appointed creative director in 2016. He has since been responsible for collaborations with Cool Hunting, streetwear brand Public School and DJ Vice. What was the appeal of working for TUMI? After designing digital cameras for Kodak, I had an itch to enter the fashion world. I’d studied industrial design – which I found to be this great medium between sculpture and product design – but I now wanted to work more closely with materials and textiles. TUMI does a great job of straddling product design and fashion. It has a great reputation for innovation. What was your vision for the company? I wanted to push how the brand thought about the form of its products, as much as about functionality. It was about making things more aesthetically pleasing, creating unique pieces that the world had never seen. To what extent is TUMI now a lifestyle brand, rather than simply a purveyor of premium luggage? It’s only recently that we’ve been talking

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these sorts of people on a more personal level?’ ‘What other products do these people need in their lives?’. So we got into electronics, outerwear, accessories. It’s about rounding out the whole lifestyle aspect.

about TUMI as a lifestyle brand, but it’s always been a lifestyle brand, perhaps traditionally more for business types. We realised that people buying into the brand weren’t just executives. They were artists, athletes, DJs, designers, entrepreneurs. We asked ourselves, ‘how do we engage with

TUMI was always associated with business travel. Has it become less corporate? The world has changed. People used to travel strictly for business. Now they tend to tack a day or two of leisure onto a business trip. So they’ll need a bag that can act as a business bag and a weekend bag. How does TUMI keep up with technology? We address people’s shifting needs. We know our customer is evolving and

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| feature |

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| interview |

we move our collections forward. Whether that’s adding in features, adding things that keep up with lifestyle trends. The tablet, for example, changed the way people do business. It’s about creating products that keep up with this evolution. We pride ourselves on being innovators, whether that’s in materials, technology, weight, how our luggage rolls, how handles feel, how zippers slide.

The right case for the job

for long-haul

You’ve partnered with American basketball player Russell Westbrook, NY designers Public School and jewellery designer Eva Fehren. What do these sort of partnerships bring to TUMI? Collaborations with people outside of your industry keep things fresh. The people we collaborate with are TUMI fans first. Our latest partner [Russell Westbrook] had been carrying our bags for years. We thought this guy exemplifies everything we embody. His is a leader in his industry; does more than play basketball; runs foundations; is a global style icon. We moulded his aesthetic and personality with TUMI’s functionality. Are high-profile ambassadors a way of appealing to a younger audience? When we talk about audiences we tend to get caught up on age. It’s more of a mental thing. Today, people want to feel connected to a larger conversation. Everyone wants to feel cool, to feel young. So some of our products have a more youthful energy. But the TUMI DNA – functionality and durability – is inherent throughout. What constitutes luxury? Craftsmanship, longevity and quality – both physical and aesthetic. TUMI products are investment pieces. They should last. As humans, we put a lot of product into the world. If TUMI can keep its products in use, that’s a huge win. What makes a good creative director? Listening to the people around you. Trying

19 degree aluminium carry-on case, £855

to inspire them. Trying to push the brand. Viewing the entirety of the whole company and asking how do we best serve the needs of our customers. How do we push the brand to where it’s not gone before.

for short-haul

Define your own approach to creativity? Never be happy with the status quo. Never stop being curious. That’s when you stop evolving as a brand and as a individual. Always ask why? And why not? Why can’t we do something differently?

Luke rolltop backpack, £395

for business

Aviano slim brief, £335 All available at tumi.com

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City Magazine_CH2.indd 1

26/04/17 11:45


IMAGES, FROM TOP Hästens Craftsmanship; Hästens Auroria In Royal Navy Check; Hästens Vividus In Blue Check; Hästens Luxuria In Solid Pearl Check

| PROMOTION |

DREAM

WEAVERS The Hästens craftsmen turning sleep into an art form

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ondon is the city that never sleeps. Well, almost. Judging by the tired eyes on the Northern line, we could all do with pressing the snooze button once in a while. In fact, the whole country is struggling to catch 40 winks – according to The Great British Bedtime Report, the average Brit gets just six of the recommended eight hours a night. It may be news to us, but Swedish bed and mattress brand Hästens has been perfecting the art of slumber since 1852, and fifthgeneration owner Jan Ryde is on a mission to spread the word about the importance of a good night’s sleep. Originally a saddle manufacturer, Hästens as it’s known today came about as a response to the declining horse trade. David Janson, the founder’s grandson, made the switch – taking the horsetail hair used to craft the brand’s carriage seats, and sandwiching it between cotton, wool and flax to create an allergen-free mattress that has comfort by the barrel load. Today, Hästens signature blue and white check, first created in 1978, is said to be more recognisable in Sweden than the country’s own flag, and globally the brand is renowned for its craft. Even the Swedish

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royals are fans – in 1952 Hästens was appointed Purveyor to the Royal Court of Sweden (the Swedish equivalent to our Royal Warrant). Of the beds themselves, there are 11 from which to choose, ranging from the Marquis (£3,970); to the ultraluxe Vividus (£109,000), priced so for the detailed craftsmanship behind it. The bed takes 320 hours to make by hand by Hästens’ master craftsmen. So which to pick? While it makes sense to assume that the top tiered divan boasts the best sleep, Ryde says that the secret to a good night lies with the individual. Not everyone will find the Vividus to be the most comfortable. The trick is to test them out; the Hästens team recommends customers visit the store to try each model for themselves before making a decision. Each bed boasts a 25-year guarantee, so it’s an investment worth taking time over – especially as there’s evidence that it could last a lifetime. The team recently tracked down an 80-year-old model that was still going strong, and even offered to buy it. To their surprise, the owner declined. So besotted was he with his favoured frame that he wouldn’t give it up, not even for the offer of a new one. It is accolades such as this that have earned the brand its reputation as one of Sweden’s – and the world’s – top bed brands. For the secret to a good night’s sleep, look no further. 115 Fulham Road, SW3, hastens.com

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[ Still in Style ]

oliver spencer His cutting-edge silhouettes for his eponymous brand may define contemporary cool, but Oliver Spencer started out in waistcoats. With the opening of Favourbrook’s new Pall Mall store, the tailor makes a return to formalwear Words: David Taylor

I

’m 15 minutes late. Flushed and flustered, I stumble into the plush new Pall Mall premises of Favourbrook formalwear and breathlessly ask for Oliver Spencer, owner and founder of both Favourbrook and his eponymous brand, a cornerstone of London Fashion Week Men’s. Turns out, he’s next door in the café scouting a spot for us to have coffee. He strolls back into the store to greet me, past his olive-brown scooter parked outside. “No problem! I’m fine, I’m relaxed because I managed to get here on the scooter alive,” he explains. “There was a pile-up outside earlier. The police asked me where I was going with the scooter and said I couldn’t park it on the street. I said that it was actually my shop. It’s on my property”. And what a property Spencer now has. The doublefronted store at 16-17 Pall Mall is a beauty, inside and out. The building was designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens at a time when every building of note seemed to have his signature on the blueprints (including what is now The Ned).

Directly across from Favourbrook are the Athenaeum, Reform and Travellers private members’ clubs; turn right and you have the Royal Automobile Club, left and you walk into premium outdoor wear shop Farlows. “I feel like I’m on a film set,” says Spencer. “It makes life at Favourbrook really easy. It’s great, I’m really pleased.” He moved to the new premises from Jermyn Street, where Favourbrook had been for 25 years. It might only be seven minutes’ walk away, but the move was a wrench: “I was sad. I was really sad. But I knew what I was doing, and I knew it made sense. “Coming into this building is fantastic.

I like the fact that it’s double-fronted, so I get both my shops there [menswear and womenswear], and it’s got one entrance. Boom. I’ve lined up next to Farlows. It’s all great.” It’s a different world to where Spencer started out, studying at art school and selling second-hand clothing in West London. “I started Favourbrook in 1993. I was working on Portobello Road, wheeling and dealing, loving it. “It all started off with waistcoats. I was shown some ecclesiastical cloth at a weavers, but it was basically all seconds: it all had lines in it. They asked me what on earth I could do with it. I got a waistcoat pattern from a Turkish tailor and said we can make waistcoats. “So, I started off making waistcoats, and then Four Weddings and a Funeral happened. That film was the catalyst for everything.” All waistcoats in the quintessential 1990s British romcom were designed by Spencer. From here, his name grew, and 24 years later, Favourbrook still creates the sort of eccentric clothing championed by Simon Callow in the film.

The new Favourbrook store, 16-17 Pall Mall. “I wanted to create somewhere that was between a home and a museum, so quite plush, but then quite airy at the same time,” said Spencer.

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| feature |

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Weddings are still big business, especially at the start of a new year following so many Christmas proposals. For Spencer, it’s a fascinating arena: “It’s an interesting business for us, definitely. You get a wide range, you get whole families and really weird requests. It’s really diverse. “We’ve made lots of incredibly different things for people over the years. Back in the day we used to make cream frock coats for people to get married in, all types of stuff. Very dandy. And I think it’s going to go back to being dandy. “There’s a push towards dressing up again, going out and having a good time. I think that’s fantastic.” ‘Fantastic’ is a buzzword for Spencer, as is ‘great’. He’s a man seemingly at ease with himself and the worlds of formalwear and contemporary fashion he simultaneously inhabits. On surface level, it’s hard

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| style |

to see where Favourbrook and Oliver Spencer the brand intersect, but Spencer explains: “Oliver Spencer came out of Favourbrook, when I was wearing corduroy suits on the shop floor and people were loving it. “They do cross over. There are two velvet jackets in Favourbrook at the moment, one’s green and one’s orange, and they cross from a smoking jacket in there to a bomber jacket in Oliver Spencer. So sometimes I share fabrics. Both companies were all about fabrication – my passion was always fabrication.”

“I just love coming to work, and I love dressing up. And actually, I’m a shopkeeper at heart, so I love being on the shop floor serving” Each topic we discuss resorts back to fabrics. The reason for him going into clothing? “Buying a second-hand suit. It was a sky blue seersucker suit, it was hilarious. Way too big. I just sort of… just heaved it all in, with high-waisted trousers. This was way back in ’89. Popped it on with a pair of sandals, and off I went. I looked ridiculous, but I loved it.” And of the current state of British menswear? “I enjoy every single bit of it. I enjoy everyone coming together: I think the menswear community is fantastic. It’s going from strength to strength. The menswear community is in a great spot. “I love coming to work, and I love dressing up. And actually, I’m a shopkeeper at heart, so I love being on the shop floor serving.” With that, Spencer is due at another appointment. Diplomatically, he says: “We’re all running a bit late this morning”, pays for our coffee, shakes my hand, and strolls away tapping at his smart phone, working out where next for Mr Spencer and his olive scooter. favourbrook.com

Q&A 60 seconds on… London and Brexit

City: Restaurants are facing problems with staffing in the light of Brexit uncertainties. Is it the same in clothing? OS: Not at the moment, not yet. But it’s got to worry us all. I’m much more worried actually by the disenfranchisement of the youth in London full stop. I think London is not a place for young people anymore. It’s a really big issue. No-one can afford to live here, and not many of us can afford to go out here, either. I’m talking about the under-25s here, really right at the beginning. It’s just really difficult. City: Will that affect London’s creative scene? OS: I think it will have a massive side effect. I don’t want London to become like New York, with streets and streets of empty shops. That’s because everything is over-rented, nobody can afford anything. City: Will the cost of operating a business in London stifle entrepreneurship? OS: I think it will… I think it probably did for me on Jermyn Street already. The rent there now is astronomical. It never used to be, it used to be at a level where people like you and I could afford it. Now I’ve made a stand. One thing I was determined not to do is to work for the landlord. First of all, I work to pay my wages, then I work for the landlord, then eventually, if there’s anything left, we get something. But it’s in that order, and now, the order’s wrong. City: What’s your focus for next year? OS: I’ll be focusing on dealing with Brexit, dealing with the hangover of that, and seeing what the hell goes on with my Portuguese manufacturing place. That’s my next big worry. There’s all this to-ing and fro-ing with all the politicians. To be honest, I don’t know how much we’re going to notice Brexit in London. It’s interesting that the Germans and French think they’re going to benefit. I don’t think it’s going to happen. The guys that I know in the City just laugh when I ask them about it. There are 450,000 people working in London’s financial districts. Frankfurt and Paris don’t have the infrastructure. They’re way off.

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MR P will see you now

It was only a matter of time before fashion giant (and frequently bookmarked webpage for men of sartorial nous) Mr Porter introduced its very own label. Mr P will be a year-round collection focused on an Essentials range of core pieces, but five limited-edition seasonal capsules will also be released, inspired by past and present style icons. The first collection consists of winter staples, including this houndstooth virgin wool coat. mrporter.com

Style Brief

Your monthly sartorial meeting

leading men’s style site produces its own label

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| style |

1. Houndstooth virgin wool coat, £645, MR P, mrporter.com 2. Ives double-breasted wool overcoat, €1,680, salle-privee.com 3. Houndstooth print coat, £1,350, Raf Simons, farfetch.com 4. Sundsval mohair coat, £470, norseprojects.com 5. Hebden Donegal covert coat, £495, cordings.co.uk 6. Camden long car coat, £1,995, burberry.com

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Rhian Stephenson, CEO of Psycle London

CANARY WHARF

fit and trim

If there is one place to go to kick start your January, it’s Canary Wharf. With Third Space, Bespoke, Psycle and Virgin Active on your doorstep, you’ll never be short of options to keep active. Words: tanya svilar Q&A WITH RHIAN STEPHENSON, CEO OF PSYCLE LONDON What advice would you give to someone who is new to fitness or just re-engaging with the gym and working out? Don’t put unrealistic pressure on yourself – fitness is a long-term habit you need to commit to and it takes time to phase it into your life. Starting off the year with seven workouts a week is pointless if it means by February you’re burnt out and demotivated. What quick, healthy meal would you recommend eating post-workout? The best post-workout meal is a balanced shake. The Green Light from our Energy Kitchen, with extra plant based protein, is my favourite – it has healthy fats, protein, electrolytes and superfoods to help your body recover and stay energised for hours. What do you think makes Psycle London different and what was your initial goal? We wanted to create classes that help people fall in love with fitness and we

Q&A

wanted our studios to be welcoming, authentic and community centric so that we could help people build a positive relationship with exercise and health. Our classes build strength and confidence. Why do you think Canary Wharf makes such a good location for Psycle London? It is the perfect place for Psycle. People don’t have a lot of time, often have stressful jobs and need something that is not only physically efficient but allows them to switch off. Just six weeks of Psycle has been proven to lower blood pressure, improve VO2 max and increase power output. What advice would you give to those who struggle to find time to workout? Prioritising exercise will create time, not take it away. You will be more productive, energised, happier and creative. You will sleep better and improve your immune system. Scheduling in time is essential – you need to treat it like a recurring, non-negotiable appointment.

book a class

Psycle are completely payas-you-go. It’s simple to book a space online using their credit based system where one credit is equivalent to one class. Psycle London, Crossrail Place; psyclelondon.com

Psycle London, Crossrail Place

Psycle London, Crossrail Place

canarywharf.com

@yourcanarywharf

@canarywharflondon


Third Space, Canada Square

Sweaty Betty, Cabot Place and Jubilee Place

fitness clothing

Sportswear doesn’t have to be boring – incorporate some of your personal style into your workout wardrobe with contemporary pieces from the malls at Canary Wharf. Visit Asics for the very latest in specialist trainers, or Superdry and Sweaty Betty for sportswear that is sleek and stylish as well as practical.

Third Space, Canada Square

third space

With three floors of exceptional fitness facilities, Third Space Canary Wharf is Europe’s largest luxury health club. Have a go on one of the highest indoor climbing walls, take a swim in its 23m pool or choose from an extensive timetable of upbeat and intense classes, taught by highly trained professionals. We recommend the Ultra Shock Circuits class. This HIIT (High Intensity Interval Training) session is a great way to get every muscle in your body working hard. Expect short breaks between each workout station and extra cardio ‘shocks’ thrown in – hence the name. At each station you will complete a high intensity exercise designed to boost your metabolism, continuing to burn fat for hours afterwards. Third Space, Canada Square

virgin ACTIVE

Boasting impressive waterfront views overlooking the Thames, prepare to workout in an exclusive setting at Virgin Active Canary Riverside. Do some lengths in the indoor feature pool or try out one of the various classes available at the health club, all of which are free for members to attend. Alternatively, you could just make use of the gym facilites. The gym floor is stocked full of world-class equipment, making it a great place to help you reach your fitness goals this January.

canarywharf.com

@yourcanarywharf

@canarywharflondon


THE LATEST ISSUE OF

the city magazine DELIVERED TO YOUR DESK FOR FREE EMAIL YOUR NAME, ADDRESS & the company you work for to citydesk@rwmg.co.uk


out of office ICE SK AT ING SU V s | r acing r a dica l s | Pione e ring pho t ogr aph y

Alex Honnold

Climber and record breaker Alex Honnold was always meant to be on the cliff face: “As a kid, I always liked climbing. I was always climbing trees, buildings, and playground structures”. He’s moved on to bigger challenges since, culminating in the first ever free solo climb of Yosemite’s 3,000 ft El Capitan rock formation. No ropes. No safety gear. No stress (p78).

thenorthface.co.uk

Alex in Alaska, courtesy of Taylor Rees @taylorfreesolo

Quivering Qashqai (p.84)

test driving Nissan’s best-selling 4x4 on the ice fields of Siberia

THE RACE IS ON (p.88)

is The Radical SR1 Cup the UK’s most exciting racing championship?

ESCAPE TO THE COUNTRY (p.97) the best bucolic retreats within two hours of London


life on the edge

Clayton Boyd for The North Face

As the first climber to scale the notorious 3,000-foot face of Yosemite’s El Capitan without a rope, Alex Honnold has won the respect of the climbing world Words: Hugh Francis Anderson


Honnold climbs the 2,000ft-tall face of Mt. Poi, northern Kenya. Image from The North Face


| interview |

t’s difficult to miss Alex Honnold. Entering the Castle Climbing Centre in Stoke Newington, I recognise him immediately. He’s 10 feet above me, hanging onto a wafer-thin climbing hold with just three fingers, a wide smile firmly sealed on his face. His physique is slight, not an ounce of fat lining his sinewy frame, and when he eventually drops down, I’m offered a meaty hand, with fingers so muscular they seem otherworldly. At just 32, Alex Honnold has quickly risen to become one of the planet’s most famous living climbers. Having scaled some of the world’s toughest mountains with a demeanour that verges on the nonchalant, Honnold has rightly earned his nickname, ‘No Big Deal’. At a time when adventure sports are seeing enormous growth, Honnold is front and centre of this small but wide-reaching group. He has been profiled by The New York Times, National Geographic and CBS’s 60 Minutes, starred in feature-length documentaries, and been the guest on numerous talk shows. So how did this quiet man from Sacramento, California, become such a visible figurehead for adventure? “As a kid, I always liked climbing. I was always climbing trees, buildings, and playground structures,” says Honnold, slouching on the padded floor beneath the climbing wall. “When I was 11, a climbing gym like this one opened in my home town, and as I loved swinging around, it made sense to come indoors and do it in a proper way. So my parents took me in there and I started climbing indoors pretty much all the time.” How then, did he transition to climbing outdoors? “As a teenager, I started doing excursions outside Renan Ozturk

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with friends. On school holidays, I’d go to some of the areas around California and spend a couple of days climbing outside, but I was still limited with no car and no driving licence, no equipment and no real knowledge,” he reminisces with a smile. It wasn’t until he was 19 and dropped out of an engineering degree at Berkeley that climbing became more than just a hobby. Honnold has led a nomadic life since, and to this day continues to live full-time in a van: “when I started it was a little more ghetto. I basically stole my mum’s mini-van and used that for a year until it died, and then I just used a bicycle for another year or so. “Eventually I bought a van, and now I’ve lived in one for 10 years.” I proffer that climbing must be a lonely existence. “It certainly was when I first started full-time, and that’s partially because I was more of a loner, less social and awkward, so it was quite insular in the beginning,” he says. “Now it’s really social. It’s interesting because I used to be on my own a lot, but I now have such a big community and know so many climbers all over the world. Anywhere I go, there’s going to be a lot of people I know, so it’s super social.” This is due in no small part to the onset of social media, 4K video cameras and YouTube. Climbing always had a loyal following, but, in recent years, it has exploded. Honnold now has seven industry-leading sponsors behind him. This has allowed for a varied and adventure-fuelled career. He has climbed every corner of the world, from Borneo to Chile, Chad to Oman, and has now become the first person in history to free solo the 3,000-foot Freerider route of Yosemite’s El Capitan, the Holy Grail of North American climbing. “I’d been thinking about it since 2008, and in 2009 I really started to dream of it, but it never seemed possible. In the last year and a half, I’ve been actively working towards it. “To complete it was pretty euphoric. I’d put a lot of hard work into it, and I’d also built it up in my mind as a big thing, so to finally do it was pretty moving. I was delighted.” For most, the appeal of free soloing is hard to fathom. To climb thousands of feet without any last-resort safety measures takes years of practice. The training, the preparation, and most importantly, the mental state, must all be honed. When you’re faced with more than two kilometres of sheer rock face, with no safety equipment or ropes, you’re teetering on the edge of possibility, on the edge of life. “Planning is the mental side of it. The physical training is just climbing all the time, working out, doing a lot of hiking and occasionally mountain biking,” he says. “I climbed and planned it over and over. I memorised numerous moves and I’d practised the climbing in different styles and ways to see what would feel more secure when you’re rope-less.” I wonder what part fear plays on the mind, as both a driving force and something that holds you back. “The high consequences and the chance of death if you make a mistake do contribute to the experience because it requires you to perform at a higher level, so the fact that it’s testing you is definitely part of it.

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Clayton Boyd for The North Face

“I’m not experiencing fear while I’m up there, and when I solo free climb, I’m not scared at all – but it’s because I chose the right day to do it, I was ready for it, and everything was perfect”

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Mouse Formation, northern Kenya, image by Ted Hesser for The North Face

insight

Conquering El Capitan

El Capitan, a vertical rock formation on the north side of California’s Yosemite Valley, is possibly the most famous destination for any climbers with ambitions of reaching the pinnacle of the sport. The first successful ascent via its two sheer cliff faces took place in 1958, and both faces of El Cap now have numerous established routes. Honnold was actually part of the support team for the first ever free ascent (using ropes only to catch falls, not for advantage) of El Cap’s notorious Dawn Wall in 2015, before putting his own name in the history books in 2017: Honnold climbed the 3,000 ft Freerider route without the support of any ropes, harnesses or teammates in three hours and 56 minutes, completing the most difficult free solo ascent ever attempted.

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| interview |

“Humans are hardwired to appreciate the outdoors and to enjoy nature and open spaces. Climbing feels like playing. It has always felt like playing” “I try to avoid fear through preparation, by spending time making sure I’m ready. Ideally, I’m not experiencing fear while I’m up there, and when I solo free climb, I’m not scared at all – but it’s because I chose the right day to do it, I was ready for it, and everything was perfect. But the consequences do matter.” In the world of extreme sports, it’s difficult to know where free soloing fits in. The risks far outweigh those of other sports, yet the calm, calculated movements required, alongside the duration of the climb, all attest to something altogether different. As Honnold notes, “It’s actually a totally different sensation. I’ve skydived and done various ‘extreme’ sports before, and even mountain biking feels more extreme to me. The thing with soloing is that it’s not fast at all, it’s very slow. You have to consciously and deliberately choose to move over and over, whereas with downhill skiing, mountain biking and a lot of other sports, once you Renan Ozturk

commit to a line, you’re going, one way or the other. “In climbing, you never get a rush like that due to the slow, calculated movements. So, it doesn’t feel like other extreme sports, even though from the outside it seems outrageous.” I’m beginning to understand why Yosemite, image by Jimmy Chin Honnold has been given the nickname, ‘No Big Deal’. The way in which he describes his climbing and his mental state is one of sheer ease. It is as if all of his exploits are natural, like going to the shops or working on a simple project. It’s just something that he does. Riding the wave of his current success, Honnold, with the support of The North Face, has started to turn his attention to using climbing as a tool to connect people, through the Walls Are Meant For Climbing initiative. “It’s all about bringing people together through climbing, particularly in the US right now where walls are seen as very divisive,” he says. “During these turbulent times, we’re trying to use walls to bring people together instead.” He has also started a sustainable development organisation, the Honnold Foundation, with the intention of sending solar panels and aid to remote communities around the world. “I can see myself getting more involved with these sorts of projects, but I’ll be climbing for my whole life. I just love it. “Whether or not my career will always be focussed around it doesn’t matter to me. I’ll always climb.” Honnold inspires through his serenity. He regales with stories about climbing the notorious Fitz Traverse in Patagonia, he casually mentions his future expedition to Antarctica, and he only briefly talks about the much-anticipated National Geographic film about his El Capitan climb. “Humans are hardwired to appreciate the outdoors and to enjoy nature and open spaces,” he says as we part. “Climbing feels like playing. It has always felt like playing.”

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Quivering

Qashqai Nissan’s best-selling 4x4 is 10 years old – time to pack it off to Siberia? Jeremy Taylor shivers at -17°C testing the Qashqai on the ice of the magical Lake Baikal

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| motoring |

e may not currently be the best of friends, but Britain and Russia do share something in common – both countries build one of Europe’s best-selling SUVs in huge quantities. More than 2.3 million Qashqai cars have been sold around the world since 2007 – and the only difference with the Russian version is that the glass roof has been constructed to withstand the weight of a brown bear. There aren’t many of those around at the Nissan plant in Sunderland, where the UK’s

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most popular mid-size family SUV is welded together. Instead, I’m in Siberia to test the Qashqai in conditions British buyers would baulk at. Nissan will launch a revised version of the 4x4 in July, in response to a surge of new models from other manufacturers. It will feature the option of ProPilot autonomous driving technology and nips and tucks to the bodywork. Qashqai was launched in the USA for the first time in 2017. However, because Americans have ‘difficulty’ pronouncing the name, the car will be branded something easier on the tongue – Rogue Sport.

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Lake Baikal in Siberia is the world’s deepest lake. Regarded as one of the most magical expanses of water on Earth, scientists say it contains 20 per cent of all the freshwater on the planet. To put that in perspective, if every person in the world drank 500 litres of water a day, Baikal would take 40 years to run dry. In the winter months, it freezes in a bizarre, transparent fashion that has made the shoreline a tourism hotspot. The frozen surface has also become an adventure playground for every type of vehicle. With temperatures dipping as low as -40°C, the ice here can freeze to 58cm thick. During the Second World War, it was strong enough to support a makeshift railway line. The weight of a Qashqai shouldn’t cause any alarm, then – or so you might think. Just reaching east Siberia is an adventure – threeand-a-half hours from Heathrow and then another five-hour flight to Mongolia. Irkutsk is the capital of the region, a good base to drive out to the western shoreline, and the most popular stop on the TransSiberian Railway. Outside of Moscow, rural Russia remains an old-fashioned mix of 1980s Britain and fur hats. The centre of Irkutsk naturally plays to the tourist,

with streets of immaculately restored 19th-century buildings that have been converted into cafés, bars and restaurants. Otherwise, the dusty thoroughfares hang thick with smog and dirt. Cars, lorries and chimneys belch out smoke 24/7. The people are made unflinchingly tough to survive the harsh climate, but the welcome at the Nissan dealership is typically warm. The glass-fronted building is pretty much like any other dealership, anywhere in the world, except here the emphasis is on cars with heated seats and windscreens – and that toughened glass roof that really can resist the attention of a brown bear. Not surprisingly, Siberian drivers love their SUVs. The roads are, at best, potholed. But it’s nothing to pass from a stretch of cracked tarmac onto a dual carriageway of dirt without the slightest warning of the hazard ahead. The major arteries out of the city are patrolled by police officers armed with speed

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guns. Their Lada cars act as a makeshift office for a constant stream of minor offenders, paying up for their crime in hard-earned roubles. It’s just 40 miles to Baikal from here, and along the way, our Russian hosts want to show off some of the ‘highlights’ of the region. The tiny village of Mal’ta is the site of one of the oldest modern human genomes sequenced to date – a four-year-old boy who died 24,000 years ago. In the present day, I drive by locals filling water buckets from a standpipe, while schoolchildren shiver at the bus stop and the village shop is lined with empty shelves. The route then makes a detour through woodland to an abandoned health resort, started in the Soviet ’80s but never completed. The ruined accommodation blocks are now used for terrorist training by Special Forces, while anything not nailed down has been repurposed by the locals. It’s a relief to reach Baikal, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1996. Not that the local populace has contributed much to the scenic outlook. Cheaplooking shops line the shore, while music pumps out from a pizza restaurant. I get the feeling the 21st century hasn’t quite reached these parts yet. Never mind. Turn around and the view across the lake is otherworldly. A biting wind has swept in from

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| motoring |

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the east, blowing snow from the lake’s surface to reveal the crystal-clear ice below. The water is so pure you can see deep into the darkness. Cracks allow the water to oxygenate, creating a breeding ground for strange fish and freakish plants. At this point the calm is shattered by an ancient Toyota saloon, spinning across the surface in a series of perfectly formed doughnuts. You’d never get away with that at a UNESCO site anywhere else but here, anything is possible. Now it’s my turn to have a go. I point the Qashqai towards the shore and gingerly follow the Russians out onto the lake. The sat nav says I should return to the route but this is much more fun. With studded tyres, the Nissan offers more grip than I’d first anticipated.

I doubt Usain Bolt could have run faster but a group on onlookers 500 yards away felt the seismic shift too I’ve been told to listen out for cracking ice by keeping a window open – and seatbelts aren’t used on ice, to facilitate a fast getaway if the worst happens. That’s unlikely, but it is March and daytime temperatures sometimes have the audacity to climb above 0°C. So when I break away from the group for a photographic opportunity on what looks like a fault line, I have no idea what is about to happen next. Lining up the perfect Qashqai publicity shot, there’s an almighty bang as the Nissan slumps down on its chassis. I doubt Usain Bolt could have run faster, but a group on onlookers 500 yards away felt the seismic shift too. It seems I’ve managed to crack the ice with the Russians too because they are all running towards me in an animated state. My rescuers have a truck with monster wheels for just such an eventuality – although such an event hasn’t happened in a long time. The Qashqai lives to float another day and I’m the toast of the day when the vodka is opened later. The SUV market is currently the fastest-growing sector in the UK. However, owners rarely get a chance to see what their 4x4s are capable of off-road. My advice is lay off the ice and stick to the tarmac.

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Skoda Kodiaq Eagerly awaited Czech bargain From £21,780, skoda.co.uk

Dacia Duster A steal with prices from less than £10,000 From £8,645, dacia.co.uk

Renault Kadjar Based on the same platform as the Qashqai From £18,925, renault.co.uk

Citroën C4 Cactus Great if you can live with the styling From £15,705, citroen.co.uk

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on your

marks f you have even a trace of petrol in your veins, chances are you’ve idly wondered what it would be like to enter a race. But the high-profile stuff like Formula 1 is a billionaire’s dream, and the dozens of lower-league formats all look a bit involved – like you’d have to remortgage your house, spend every weekend covered in oil and continually explain why you’re commuting in something with a roll-cage and stickers. Thankfully, there is another way. British specialist carmaker Radical offers one of the most fully formed beginners’ race packages around: a 12-race (six weekend) series with full garage support, with no previous experience necessary. In fact, you can only take part if you’ve been racing for two years or less. Called the SR1 Cup, it revolves around Radical’s ‘baby’ racer, a track-only lightweight that’s included in the price of entry. You can sign up for the whole series for £44,500 +VAT (garage support is extra) or, if you’re in your second year and already have the car, pay per race (£1,050 per weekend or £5,200 for the season). With none of the hassle of storing and transporting the car yourself, Radical is at pains to show just how simple it can be to get into racing. And so it is on a sunny day in early June I find myself at Brands Hatch, squeezing myself into the hard

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plastic passenger seat of a Radical SR1. There’s so little legroom I have to take my trainers off and wriggle my toes underneath the steering linkage. The driver gets more space, thankfully. His name is Joe and he’s the one tasked with introducing me to the car. After a few sighting laps we switch over and it’s my turn. It’s fair to say that I am quite nervous. For starters, the SR1 is a proper racing car – if that wasn’t obvious from its looks. It’s got a steering wheel the size of a saucer, which is mercifully free from F1-style buttons, and a basic dash full of importantlooking switches (including, reassuringly, the big red one I pull if anything catches fire). Best of all is an F1-style light system to tell me when to change gear. It has 175hp from a converted Suzuki motorbike engine, but weighs only 490kg, so will do 0-60 in 3.5 seconds and 138mph flat out. There is so much to learn even just to make it move: how to put it in gear, for example (you shift down into first using the clutch, then it’s all done with paddles after that.) Are the oil and water at the right temperature? Is the ignition on? Add to this the fact that I have never driven at Brands Hatch before and that the track is full of other people who have, and I hope you start to see why I was feeling a touch apprehensive.

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| motoring |

The Radical SR1 Cup – the UK’s fastest racing championship – was significantly revised in 2017 with dramatic new styling, improved aerodynamics and updated electronics. With detailed on-track tuition and Radical Sportscars support, is this the best racing series out there? Words: chris hall

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All that, however, is overridden in the first 20 seconds: this car is fantastic. It doesn’t matter that I’m treating the throttle like a Ming vase, upshifting halfway through the revs, and getting overtaken by – well, everyone. It’s so direct: brakes, steering, gears – it responds to your every touch. The noise is raw; not sonorous like a V8 but aggressive, rising all the way. At low speeds it’s actually not difficult to drive at all; but when you build up speed there is no room in your brain for a single other thought. Cars like this are what people call “a bit bitey” – they don’t give you a hint that things are going wrong until – snap! – you’re facing the wrong way at 85mph (I will learn this first-hand later). A big part of the driver tuition laid on by Radical is learning to anticipate when the car will need steadying, and how. Less steering? More throttle? Lift off? By the end of the day I’m allowed out on my own and, while I’m still slow, it feels sublime. Brands Hatch has some very flattering corners, and when I step out of the car (and all the way home, and all evening), I’m absolutely buzzing. But I’m not even a racing driver yet. Fast-forward a month – during which I clock up zero miles in the car – and I’m at Rockingham Motor Speedway near Corby. The confidence with which I left Brands Hatch has vanished. To enter the world of motorsport is to submit yourself to a barrage of new experiences. Taken alone they are trivial; wearing fireproof underwear and race boots, learning the procedures for signing on and scrutineering, or attempting to toughen up your hand muscles after a day of gripping the steering wheel. But together they make up a whole new world. On a race weekend, there are multiple events taking place, so a couple of dozen pit garages are in use, and the trackside is jostling with engineers, mechanics, technicians, drivers, team managers and the occasional photographer. It’s decidedly professional – this is taken seriously, and rightly so – but with the easy camaraderie among the drivers that comes when there’s only pride at stake. While everyone else may be non-stop busy, for drivers a race weekend involves a lot of waiting around. I try to learn Rockingham from video footage of Radical’s motorsport and engineering director – and, more pertinently, ex-GT3 driver – Alex Mortimer. We get a couple of brief practice sessions on the Friday ahead of racing on the Sunday. They represent my only chance to learn the track, but I embarrass myself at the earliest opportunity, spinning out on the first lap and bringing the entire session to a standstill. Not the kind of start I’d hoped for, but no harm is done

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| motoring |

and we’re soon back out there. At the end of the day I’m bruised physically and mentally – racing feels like a mountain to climb – but at least my lap times are falling. Building up race pace should be done gradually, like applying layers of paint. What I am attempting to do is the equivalent of pouring out a whole pot and hoping the end result is suitably smooth. Sunday comes. Breakfast may be a long way from F1 in glamour or diet (Holiday Inn fry-up at 7am sharp) but once I’m at the track, it all feels undeniably special. There’s a commentator, the race is being filmed – there are even a few spectators! And more focus on me than expected – it turns out that I will be the very first person to drive the new-look SR1. It’s a genuine honour (although I’d have happily chosen not to stand out so much on the track), and given that only two such cars exist, cause for even more nerves. First up is qualifying, which will determine our places for both of the day’s races. It’s not false modesty when I say I would have been happy with anything better than last place, and I’m almost incredulous to learn I’ve come in 8th of 12. More waiting ensues while other races take place. More time spent with Radical’s infinitely helpful analysts Rob and Alex. Sitting in the trailer playing back videos, poring over details of our best laps – this is what you pay for, as much as the adrenaline blasts on track. My performance is dissected, broken down into dozens of metrics – when did I brake? Where am I reaching peak speeds? Could the lines be better? Where in the lap are those extra tenths? I feel like my driving has improved just by hearing it explained.

Acquiring your racing licence

Before you get behind the wheel on a race day, you need a licence. Specifically a National B race licence, although it’s often referred to as your ‘ARDS’ after the body that administers the test (the Association of Racing Driver Schools). There’s one at just about every circuit in the country. Unlike the one you took as a callow youth, this can be done in a day, although some swotting up is essential and a bit of track experience definitely advisable. You’ll be required to display perfect knowledge of the racing flags and near-perfect recall of safety regulations and race protocol. Then, a kindly man will pop you in something like a Peugeot 308 GTi and ask you to drive him around for a bit. He’s not looking for Niki Lauda here – just showing that you understand track etiquette, the racing line, can control a car at high speed and keep an eye on what’s around you. If you’ve done a few track days, it should come naturally, but if (say) you find yourself in an unfamiliar car at an unfamiliar circuit, surrounded by tuned-up BMWs practising for the weekend’s race meet, it can be a tiny bit nerve-wracking. The SR1 Cup full package price is £44,500 + VAT; event only price is £650 + VAT per event. The SR1 Cup incorporates 12 races over six weekends, stretching from March to November, radicalsportscars.com

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There are two races, each lasting 20 minutes. It’s all very proper – we have a formation lap, then assemble on the grid. There has – yet again – been a lot to take in, which is my excuse for completely fluffing the standing start. Nevertheless, I give a good account of myself; the car is starting to feel like home and some of the tips are definitely sinking in. Conquering fear is a big part of it, and when I build up courage to take Rockingham’s big banked turn faster and faster each lap, it feels incredible. Most lifeaffirmingly of all, I manage a nice clean overtake on a more experienced rival, and finish 7th. I’m elated. Race number two is less exhilarating; another fluffed start sends me to the back but I’m not alone, and a few spins by others soon mean there are a few of us tussling together. By the end of the race I’m confident enough to attempt a downright reckless overtake which sees me hop a kerb and drop a place, ending up 11th overall. It’s over so quickly, and despite my tiredness I just want more. I’ve come a long way in a very short time, and absolutely got the racing bug. Time to start saving up for next year….

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| art |

true believer How Andreas Gursky prophesied the post-truth world Words: Hannah and Mark Westall midst rolling parkland and tranquil water gardens, the ruins of North Yorkshire’s Fountains Abbey sit as a stark expression of the power of iconoclasm, concrete reminders of the impact of changing political thought on the economic and social status quo. One of northern England’s most important economic centres, the Abbey and its monks had operated for more than 400 years when the changes wrought by Henry VIII’s Dissolution of the Monasteries Act closed it permanently. The subsequent mob looting destroyed everything but the most solid stone walls, which stand as a reminder that even the most eternalseeming institutions can vanish almost in a heartbeat; that idea of deceptive power is seen in the modernday in the work of German artist Andreas Gursky. In modern times, society has become accustomed to perceiving artists as thinkers about the world. The concept of the artist as rebel, taking on the establishment in the cause of high ideals, feels familiar to all of those who have encountered the Pre-Raphaelites and their purist ‘duty to the truth’

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of nature, which they saw as a quasi-religious responsibility. With the advent of photography in the 19th century, the ability to represent the ‘truth’ of a situation by photographing it was now within reach. The idea that the camera never lies became a widely held belief and, with mass reproduction suddenly achievable, the speed with which ideas spread increased more quickly than at any time since the invention of the printing press. The two ideals that came to dominate the modern world, capitalism and communism, both deployed and manipulated photography to their own ends, and it’s notable that Gursky, an artist whose photographic works are dominated by images of the sites and scenes of the global economy, and which contain a disorienting ambiguity, was born with a foot in both camps. Born in East Germany to a family who emigrated to the West when he was an infant, Gursky has become famous for large-scale works that capture nightclubs, factories, warehouses and vast industrial landscapes in minute, unsettling detail. From the stock exchanges of Chicago, Singapore and Tokyo, to the asphalt of Bahrain’s Formula 1 racetrack, the cheap glitz of a 99 cent store to the endless concrete iterations of a housing estate, Gursky’s work appears at first to document the economic endeavours of our times, yet there is a far more subtle agenda. In photographs often 3.5 metres wide, Gursky deploys techniques that capture a seemingly impossible degree of detail, all in extraordinarily sharp focus. Often seen from above, the images place the viewer above the fray in the position of an assessor, appraising and cataloguing the extent of the works created by humanity as if for some future judgement. The depth of detail seems evidence of their veracity, yet Gursky has been deploying digital techniques to retouch and alter his negatives since the 1990s, and the truth seen by our eyes, the value of our judgement, cannot be relied on. The question raised appears to be that, if we cannot trust our own eyes, can we trust in the iconic emblems of late capitalism that left Bahrain I, 2005, C-Print, 302.2 x 219.6 x 6.2cm, © form Gursky’s subject matter? Andreas Gursky/DACS, 2017, courtesy: Sprüth Magers In timely new works to

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be seen at a show at London’s White Cube and at a major retrospective at the Hayward Gallery opening at the end of January, our Trumpian post-truth environment is explored. Gursky has extended his work with manipulated images creating what he calls ‘fictional photography’, questioning our faith in the truth of imagery. Review (2015) shows a constructed fictional scene in which German Chancellor Angela Merkel and her three predecessors gaze at (and are dwarfed by) Barnett Newman’s Vir Heroicus Sublimis (1950–51), and the composition is rich in meaning. Newman’s work is based on an essay, ‘The Sublime is Now’, in which he asked “If we are living in a time without a legend that can be called sublime, how can we be creating sublime art?”, raising questions about how important our institutions and the art created in response to them truly are. In the early 1980s Gursky was a student at Düsseldorf ’s Kunstakademie, studying as a master-student under the renowned photographic duo Bernd and Hilla Becher, whose carefully edited photography of industrial architecture, often organised in grids, became known as typologies. The Bechers have been cited as influential

Gursky’s work, and conceptual framing of social photography, is widely recognised as influencing a generation of photographers in creating what is now known as the Düsseldorf School of Photography, and it seems possible that the focus on ideas of veracity may have its origins with his work with the pair. It seems also likely that the duality of his images of the scale of contemporary human endeavour may be behind his extraordinary popularity with some of the world’s wealthiest people. Celebrated collectors of Gursky’s art include the Ukrainian billionaire Victor Pinchuk, French industrialist Bernard Arnault, and American entrepreneur Eli Broad, and his work sits in some of the world’s most famous institutions, from the Tate Modern in London, to MOMA and the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York and the Pompidou Centre in Paris. Gursky’s work, and conceptual framing of social photography, is widely recognised as influencing a generation of photographers, saying, in a remark that Henry VIII might well have agreed with, that, today, ‘reality can only be shown by constructing it’.

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Find the work Gursky will be the first exhibition at the newly renovated Hayward Gallery on the Southbank, 25 January – 22 April, southbankcentre.co.uk Andreas Gursky, White Cube Bermondsey Preview 6 February , 7 February – 8 April whitecube.com

clockwise from top Les Mées, 2016, C-Print, 220.9 x 367.2 x 6.2cm, © Andreas Gursky/DACS, 2017; Ocean II, 2010, Inkjet-Print, 341.1 x 249.4 x 6.4cm, © Andreas Gursky/DACS, 2017; Amazon, 2016, Inkjet-Print 207 x 407 x 6.2cm, © Andreas Gursky/DACS, 2017. ALL IMAGES courtesy: Sprüth Magers

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| TRAVEL |

Escape to the country When the capital is getting you down, seek solace in a weekend away. These are the best country getaways within two hours of London Words: David Taylor

Brocket Hall Hertfordshire Visit for:

Tranquillity; doorstep golf access

miles from london: 22 Brocket Hall is a pristinelykept Georgian house, once home to two prime ministers, Lord Melbourne and Lord Palmerston. The Hall has 30 exquisite bedrooms complete with traditional butler service and its own award-winning fivestar restaurant Auberge du Lac, based in the former hunting lodge on The Broadwater, which serves high-quality British fare including an eight course feast of seasonal dishes. In the grounds of the 543-acre Brocket Hall estate, and steps away from one of two championship golf courses, is Melbourne Lodge, a Georgian former stable block for the estate’s work and racehorses. The 16 en-suite rooms overlook the main Hall, Broadwater Lake and Melbourne golf course, and are all named after great racehorses from history. From £295, brocket-hall.co.uk

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Win a luxury break

Win a two-night stay for two in Melbourne Lodge, including breakfast, two rounds of golf and use of its academy, and an eightcourse tasting menu with wine pairings in Auberge du Lac. Go to

luxurylondon.co.uk/article/brocket-hallcompetition by 31 January to be in

with a chance of winning.

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Luton Hoo Hertfordshire Visit for:

SHEER Opulence; Capability Brown’s best work

miles from london: 26 miles For a weekend away surrounded by history and prestige, it’s difficult to look past Luton Hoo. The five-star hotel, golf course and opulent spa complex has seen an impressive roster of characters come and go, including Her Royal Highness Elizabeth II, Lord Mountbatten, and Sir Winston Churchill. There are excellent transport links from St Pancras for a quick getaway from the trials of everyday London. The driveway leading to Luton Hoo’s Mansion House is an event in itself, the path cutting through both some of lauded 18th-century landscaper Lancelot ‘Capability’ Brown’s most accomplished gardens and parkland, and past the 18-hole golf course, designed to complement Brown’s magnificent work. Beyond this, and the wonderful façade of Mansion House, is a hotel arguably unlike anything else on offer in the Home Counties. Inside, the hotel is styled authentically and in keeping with the original décor of

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the house. Ornate chandeliers hang from high ceilings, with dark woods, rich carpets and period furniture adding to the opulence. Capability Brown extended the grounds of Luton Hoo almost fourfold, from 300 to over 1,000 acres of parkland, meadows, woodland, lakes, rivers and nature trails. A particular highlight is Brown’s octagonal walled garden. Brown also created two substantial lakes for the estate by damming the nearby River Lea.

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| TRAVEL |

The restaurant was significantly remodelled in the early 20th century by architects that worked on The Ritz Luton Hoo’s award-winning Wernher Restaurant is named after Sir Julius Wernher, a diamond magnate who bought the estate in 1903 and transformed it into a country seat fit for landed gentry. Forming part of Mansion House, the restaurant was significantly remodelled in the early 20th century by the same architects that had worked on The Ritz. The result is guests dine in a Ritz away from The Ritz, an elegant space embellished with marble panelling and tall, draped curtains. If Wernher seems a little too formal, Adam’s Brasserie offers a more relaxed dining experience and is based in the Country Club, set within the Grade II* listed Robert Adam courtyard, which was previously the stables of the Mansion House. Also in the Club is a comprehensive spa complex and an indoor pool with views onto the woodland. If you’ve already eaten and are feeling suitably relaxed, head to the 19th bar, popular (unsurprisingly) with golfers who have just finished a round on the par 73 course. Handily, after a few at the 19th, there are specially customized London taxis to ferry guests around the estate for free. They really have thought of everything. From £240, lutonhoo.co.uk

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Stoke Park Buckinghamshire Visit for:

Award-winning golf; the Hollywood factor

miles from london: 20 miles For a slice of Hollywood in the Buckinghamshire countryside, you won’t find a better spot than Stoke Park: it’s served as a location for a raft of major films, including James Bond’s Goldfinger and Tomorrow Never Dies, Bridget Jones’s Diary, Layer Cake and Wimbledon. It’s here that Bond has his famous sporting showdown with gold magnate-cumsupervillain Auric Goldfinger. The estate is first mentioned in the Domesday Book, but Stoke Park Country Club was founded in 1908, becoming the first in the UK. Before this, the grounds were developed by Capability Brown and his successor Humphrey Repton, with the mansion designed by James Wyatt, architect to George III. A century later, the golf course was designed by godfather of course design, Harry Colt (whose other credits include, among others, Wentworth, Hoylake and Pine Valley). Unsurprisingly for the filming location of Paul Bettany’s tennis trickery in Wimbledon, tennis is also a big part of Stoke Park, with the Boodles

Challenge played annually in the week before the Championships. There are 13 tennis courts on offer: six grass, three indoor, and four floodlit artificial clay. In 2013, the hotel was given 5 Red AA Star status, joining fewer than 50 other venues in the country at the pinnacle of AA’s rankings. The 49 luxury bedrooms and suites are accompanied by three restaurants and bars and 11 spa treatment rooms. Those fancying a ramble without a golf bag have almost 300 acres of parkland, gardens and lakes to choose from, an astounding space given its proximity to London. From £260, stokepark.com

Belmond Le Manoir Aux Quat’Saisons Oxfordshire Visit for:

Oxford heritage meets French flair; Raymond Blanc

miles from london: 43 miles Raymond Blanc, superchef and TV star, opened hotel and restaurant Belmond Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons in 1984, seven years after opening his first restaurant in nearby Oxford. In its first year, the hotel’s restaurant gained two Michelin stars, and has held them ever since. The restaurant offers diners a choice of à la carte, five-course and seven-course tasting menus that change regularly due to Blanc’s desire for sustainability and seasonality. The menu is classic French with twists of contemporary flavour combinations and British ingredients, many of which are grown on-site in the Kitchen Gardens. The hotel’s wine cellar is home to approximately 1,000 different wines from around the world, with 60 per cent being of French provenance. The hotel is the epitome of an English countryside sojourn. The manor house has 32 individually designed suites and rooms to which its restaurant has 32 tables, so make sure you book well in advance if dining there without being a hotel guest. The studio suites are the combination of British country elegance and French provincial chic, which is reflected across the entire estate. With giant wooden beams, a wood-burning stove, and a gingham awning across the bed, this would be the perfect spot to spend a rainy afternoon. From £570, belmond.com

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| TRAVEL |

Hound Lodge

Goodwood, West Sussex Visit for:

Outdoor pursuits; having your dogs treated like royalty

miles from london: 51 miles Nestled in the grounds of the Goodwood Estate, Hound Lodge is a luxury getaway that is still a fully-functioning sporting lodge. Each of the rooms includes dog bowls and baskets, as well as original paintings and prints to inform guests of the Lodge’s historical significance. Guests (and their dogs) are treated to a private butler service during their stay. Each bedroom also has pictures and archive photographs referencing Glenfiddich Lodge, the lodge on the Gordon Castle estate in Scotland which was kept by Goodwood estate’s owners, and was visited by Queen Victoria. Away from the Lodge and neighbouring Valdo woodland, there are 12,000 acres of land on the Goodwood Estate to explore, meaning both you and any canine accomplices won’t run out of space to be let off the leash. You can also experience a slice of motoring history by racing the legendary 1.16 mile hill climb, centrepiece of the Goodwood Festival of Speed. £POA, houndlodge.com

The Pig Hotel Hampshire Visit for:

Authentic escapism; a restaurant with rooms

miles from london: 77 miles For those looking for the complete country experience, nowhere does it quite like The Pig. With hotels in Dorset, Devon and a particularly glitzy outpost close to Bath – known for being the starry post-Glastonbury retreat for celebrity revellers such as Alexa Chung and Daisy Lowe – the group’s focus is on quintessentially British venues and excellent, home-grown food. The Pig Brockenhurst is set within the

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New Forest, and is billed as a ‘restaurant with rooms’. The Pig embraces a garden-toplate philosophy – anything not grownon site is sourced from within a 25-mile radius – and the focus is on uncomplicated seasonal cooking. Head chef Dan Gover’s dishes can change not just by the day but by the hour, depending on the produce. Interiors are stylish but unfussy. Sofas are squishy and comfortable, and rustic features

such as bare wood tabletops abound. The hotel has 30 rooms; the deluxe suites set in the stables retain many of their original features, with a private courtyard, fireplace and a separate bathroom with free-standing bath and walk-in monsoon shower. The hotel offers bicycles to rent and wellies to borrow, an array of walking and cycling routes, and spa treatments in true rustic style – in a potting shed that sits by the lake. Country living as it should be. From £215, thepighotel.com

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Four Seasons Hampshire Visit for:

A child-friendly destination, thoughtful service

miles from london: 37 miles

ALL IMAGES courtesy of Four Seasons, Hampshire

The hub of the Four Seasons in Hampshire is a restored Georgian manor house, where all rooms (there are 133, including 22 suites) have recently undergone a refurb. The marble entrance foyer is beautiful, and the fun, complimentary gumball machine filled with Smarties at reception sets the tone: everything has been well thought out. No matter where you look, you will find another charming touch – a little reading room, a beautiful piece of art, umbrellas and bottles of water just when you need them. Staff appear with exactly what you didn’t realise you wanted: an extra duvet, tomorrow’s weather forecast, biscuits to go with your tea. More so than many country hotels, the Four Seasons is child-friendly and perfect for a family break. There are little stools in the bathrooms to reach the basins and kid-friendly menus in the restaurant, Wild Carrot, which has just reopened and is named after the wildflower that grows plentifully in Dogmersfield Park, the 500-acre site of the hotel. The Four Seasons allows you to slow down, and take time with those you love, while only being an hour from the capital. From £285, fourseasons.com/hampshire

Lime Wood Hotel Hampshire Visit for:

Laid-back luxury; great chef pop-ups

miles from london: 76 miles The sister hotel to The Pig Brockenhurst, five-star Lime Wood is a secluded venue in the heart of the New Forest that typifies laid-back luxury. A couple of hours from London by car takes you to a completely different pace of life. There’s high-end culinary nous, with chefs Angela Hartnett and Luke Holder combining to create Hartnett Holder & Co, the hotel’s relaxed Italian restaurant. A series of pop-ups organised by the restaurant also run throughout the year; past guests include Rick Stein and Tom Kerridge. At the Herb House Spa you can do yoga on the roof in a herb garden, revive in double treatment rooms and take in the forest views from the massive sauna. There is a range of bedrooms, from cosy nooks in the eaves of the main house, to the self-contained forest cottages and cabin, surrounded by forest and meadows. From £355, limewoodhotel.co.uk

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| TRAVEL |

Coworth Park Hotel Berkshire Visit for:

Luxury countryside; Instagrammable everything

miles from london: 17 miles If you have ever stayed at a Dorchester Collection property, you would know to approach the group’s five-star Coworth Park Hotel in Ascot with high hopes. The setting is beautiful; vast and rural, but incredibly manicured. There are no muddy pits here: the hotel is situated in 200 acres of well-kept land that includes polo fields, a lake and a gazebo, with expansive fields dotted with wildflowers. For a post-stroll wind-down, the spa is housed in a separate building to the main hotel (there are golf buggies to ferry you to and fro), and the scented steam room and large pool are worth a visit.

The cream-and-taupe suites have a sitting room complete with magazines and mini bar, a TV that rises from the end of the bed and a hugely Instagrammable vast white marble bathroom with a free-standing copper bathtub. There are five different dining options, including three in the main house itself. A short walk away is The Barn, a rustic brasserie, perfect for a winter warmer in the evening. A hotel that makes you feel as though you are in the countryside, without losing any of the luxury touches found in the finest city dwellings. From ÂŁ318, dorchestercollection.com/coworth-park

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An Urban House at Kidbrooke Village. Image courtesy of Berkeley Homes. See page 122


Dufferin Avenue, City EC1Y An attractive two bedroom loft style apartment

KnightFrank.co.uk/aldgate aldgate@knightfrank.com 020 3544 0712

Located just north of Barbican and encased in a converted warehouse, developed by Axiom in 1996. The apartment totals almost 1500 sq ft and occupies the lower and upper ground floors. 2 bedrooms, 1 bathroom, reception/kitchen. EPC: D. Approximately 132.9 sq m (1,431 sq ft).  Leasehold: approximately 103 years remaining

Guide price: £1,425,000

@KnightFrank KnightFrank.co.uk

KnightFrank.co.uk/POD170591

City Magazine December 2017 1 page (Flat A, 1 Dufferin Avenue)

11/12/2017 16:39:22

Cit


22

MOVE Faster. Sell with Knight Frank

Our understanding of the everchanging market enables us to price your property accurately, so you can rely on Knight Frank to get you moving. Call us today on  020 8166 5375 to arrange your free market appraisal. KnightFrank.co.uk/wapping wapping@knightfrank.com      

Guide price: £2,000,000

Olivers Wharf, Wapping E1W A luxury warehouse apartment in the iconic, Grade 1 listed ‘Olivers Wharf’ overlooking Wapping’s scenic conservation area. 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, reception room with open plan kitchen, resident buildings manager, parking. Approximately 187 sq m (2,020 sq ft).  Share of freehold.  Office: 020 8166 5375 wappingsales@knightfrank.com

@KnightFrank KnightFrank.co.uk

Guide price: £865,000

Cordage House, Wapping E1W A good sized apartment with a large balcony and communal gardens. 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, reception room with open plan kitchen, balcony, 24 hour concierge, leisure facilities. EPC: C. Approximately 79 sq m (859 sq ft). Leasehold approximately 981 years remaining.  020 8166 5375  wappingsales@knightfrank.com

City Mag September 2016

27/11/2017 16:09:24


FOUND YOUR PERFECT TENANT. LET WITH KNIGHT FRANK

To find out how we can help you please contact us KnightFrank.co.uk/aldgate aldgatelettings@knightfrank.com 020 3823 9930

Guide price: £550 per week

Bezier Apartments, The City EC1Y

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A stylish one bedroom apartment in a modern development in The City. Double bedroom, contemporary bathroom, lounge, kitchen, good storage. The flat benefits from interior design furniture package plus 2 communal terraces, gym, sauna, steam room, 24 hour concierge. Available furnished. EPC: B. Approximately 55 sq m (588 sq ft). aldgatelettings@knightfrank.com Office: 020 3823 9930

All potential tenants should be advised that, as well as rent, an administration fee of £276 and referencing fees of £48 per person will apply when renting a property. There will also be a £48 charge to register your deposit with the Tenancy Deposit Scheme if applicable. Please ask us for more information about other fees that will apply or visit www.knightfrank.co.uk/tenantfees. Knight Frank is a member of the ARLA Client Money Protection Scheme and our redress scheme for consumers is Ombudsman Services: Property.

@KnightFrank KnightFrank.co.uk

Guide price: £695 per week

Garden Walk, Shoreditch EC2A A generously proportioned two bedroom apartment in the heart of Shoreditch. 2 double bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, spacious lounge, open plan kitchen, access to communal roof terrace. Available furnished. EPC: C. Approximately 86 sq m (929 sq ft). aldgatelettings@knightfrank.com Office: 020 3823 9930

City Magazine January 2018

11/12/2017 11:42:27

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27

FOUND. Your perfect tenant. Let with Knight Frank

Our local expertise and global network mean that we can find a reliable tenant for your property; and with an average tenancy of nearly two years, Knight Frank not only helps you find them – but keep them as well. If you are considering letting a property this year, please contact us on 020 8166 5366 or visit KnightFrank.co.uk/lettings        

Guide price: £385 per week

Leeward Court, Wapping E1W A smart, newly refurbished apartment available to rent in the popular Quay 430 development. Bedroom, bathroom, reception room, brand new fully fitted kitchen, balcony and secure parking space. EPC:C. Approximately 45 sq m (488 sq ft). Available furnished.

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All potential tenants should be advised that, as well as rent, an administration fee of £276 will apply when renting a property. Please ask us for more information about other fees that may apply or visit KnightFrank.co.uk/tenantcharges

@KnightFrank KnightFrank.co.uk

wappinglettings@knightfrank.com Office: 020 8166 5366

Guide price: 995 per week

Pier Head, Wapping E1W A comprehensive refurbishment has taken place offering modern amenities whilst retaining the period charm. 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, reception room and kitchen EPC:C. Approximately 120 sq m (1293 sq ft). Availble optionally furnished. wappinglettings@knightfrank.com Office: 020 8166 5366

297h 210w Mayfair Mag

11/12/2017 15:11:13


| property |

hot property A further south-facing roof garden with bifold doors offers a more private space to enjoy the outdoors hall, making a statement to guests. If entertaining is a priority, the firstfloor kitchen – complete with handcrafted oak units, four high-spec Neff ovens and a boiling water tap – has a dining area that can accommodate up to 12 people seated, as well an outdoor terrace perfect for summer evenings. A south-facing roof garden with bifold doors offers a more private space to enjoy the outdoors on the third floor. There is a bedroom adjoining it, but the larger room below is more suited to being

Ropemakers Fields Limehouse, E14

I

f you’re looking for a period property – but don’t want to take on a demanding project – then this fully modernised and imposing Georgian townhouse in east London may be the answer. Now on the market with Knight Frank, the property’s existing structure has been completely rebuilt and an extension added, to update and improve the layout and create spacious rooms for living and entertaining. Ideal for an established or growing family, it has three bedrooms, with the potential to convert one of the reception rooms into a fourth.

At approximately 3,000 sq ft, there are also four bathrooms, while communal space currently includes three reception rooms, an office and a basement with a laundry room and wine store. London-based interior design practice Burchdaume has shaped the new design of the property, taking care to retain and work around its original features, while integrating modern technology including a Ring video doorbell, Nest thermostats and remote-controlled gas fires. The striking steel-and-oak staircase acts as an architectural sculpture in the reception

a master suite, boasting a large marble bathroom complete with underfloor heating, designer Philippe Starck basins, double rainwater showers and a statement freestanding stone bath. Less than a mile from Canary Wharf, the property’s closest transport links are Westferry and Limehouse DLR stations, and as it adjoins the small but well-kept Ropemakers Field park, it benefits from being surrounded by greenery while not being too far removed from city life. It’s an opportunity to buy the best of both worlds.

PRICE: £3,250,000 020 7512 9966 knightfrank.co.uk

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THE FINEST RIVER VIEW IN LONDON WATERFRONT PENTHOUSE SHOWHOME NOW LAUNCHED – ARRANGE A VIEWING TODAY Simply stunning: the new penthouse Showhome at Waterfront is the ultimate in luxury, with breathtaking views up and down the river to Canary Wharf, the City and the Thames Barrier. Royal Arsenal Riverside is an amazing destination. Residents can relax in the sumptuous spa facilities of The Waterside Club, and enjoy on-site dining, riverside walks, shopping, and a forthcoming Crossrail station due December 2018.

A limited collection of 2 and 3 bedroom duplex penthouses available Prices from ÂŁ1,295,000 Viewing by appointment only - call 020 3504 4095 to register your interest Sales & Marketing Suite open 10am to 6pm (Thursdays until 8pm) Imperial Building, No. 2 Duke of Wellington Avenue, Royal Arsenal Riverside, Woolwich, London SE18 6FR Photography is indicative only. Prices and information correct at time of going to press.

www.royalarsenalriverside.co.uk Proud to be a member of the Berkeley Group of companies


Mayfair Showroom 66 Grosvenor Street, London, W1K 3JL 28 offices in central London and over 60 across the capital

Canonbury Road, N1 ÂŁ1,950,000

A centrally located, three double bedroom Victorian terrace house with a large double reception room, an open plan kitchen/dining room and two bathrooms. The property further benefits from a garden, gated off street parking and a separate home office, energy rating d. Dexters Islington 020 7483 6373

Wood Street, EC2Y ÂŁ1,374,000

Located in the heart of the City, this stylish two bedroom apartment has been finished to an exceptional standard throughout and has open plan living with a contemporary kitchen and two bathrooms. Further benefits include a private balcony, energy rating b. Dexters Clerkenwell 020 7483 6369

dexters.co.uk


Lower Thames Street, EC3R £1,695 per week

A luxurious two double bedroom apartment in the exclusive Three Quays development overlooking the Tower of London. The property has a large open plan kitchen/reception room, two bathrooms and a private balcony, energy rating c. Dexters City 020 7392 9111

Charlton Place, N1 £1,100 per week

A Grade II Listed terraced house with three bedrooms located in the heart of Islington. The house has high-quality modern fittings while retaining a number of the original features. There is a modern open plan kitchen with patio doors leading directly to the private garden, energy rating d. Dexters Islington 020 7483 6374

dexters.co.uk

Tenants fees apply: £180 per tenancy towards administration, £60 reference fee per tenant and £144 towards the end of tenancy check out report (all inc VAT).


Glamis Place, Wapping E1W

Tequila Wharf, Limehouse E14

Ea2 are pleased to offer for sale this modern built 5th floor apartment within this Ea2 are pleased to offer for sale this modern built 1st floor apartment within this gated and popular canal side development.The apartment benefits from an open plan secure and centrally located development.The apartment benefits from a lounge, Wellington Terrace,Wapping E1W lounge and fully fitted kitchen, double bedroom, 3 piece bathroom suite£695,000 and balcony spacious separate fully fitted kitchen, double bedroom and 4 piece bathroom suite. 2Wood double bedroom, 2 storey house set within this gated CCTV development. Theviews property modernised to include with towardshas thebeen Canaryfully Wharf district. Laminate wood floors. Security entryfloors. Security entry-phone system. Gas central heating.Allocated parking double replacement ceilings, wood floors, , alarm, central system operated viacentral remote control, smart phone orapartment is conveniently phone system. Gas heating. Porterage/security. The space.Theglazing, apartment is conveniently located close to multiple transport links heating to located close Secure to multiple transport linksparking to includespace. Limehouse station. include Shadwell and Fully Limehouse internet. Lounge. fittedstations. kitchen. Double bedrooms with fitted wardrobes. Garden. Underground

Potential to extend into the loft subject to planning permission. Close to Wapping station and local amenities. Price: £370,000 Price: £399,999

The Highway, Wapping E1W

Presidents Drive, Wapping E1W

ea2 are pleased to offer for sale this recently refurbished modern built 3 double bedroom, 3 storey house within this secure gated development within the heart of Wapping.The house benefits from an open plan lounge and fully fitted and integrated £1,595,000 kitchen. Bi-fold doors leading to decked garden. 4 Piece family bathroom and en-suite 6th floor luxury 2 Double Bedrooms, 2 Bathrooms, Open Plan Reception Room, bedroom with en-suite showerlarge roombalcony. to masterMaster bedroom. Under floor heating. Wood floors. Recessed Led and walk in wardrobe. Modern Integrated Kitchen, Balcony, 24 Hour Porter by Harrods Estates,Secure Residents Gymnasium, Swimming lighting. Front garden. underground parking space.

ea2 are pleased to offer for sale this recently refurbished 2 bedroom, 2 bathroom 2 storey 1980’s built house.The property benefits from a fully fitted kitchen, lounge and garden. Laminate wood floor. Double glazing. Close to Shadwell station, local bus Tudor House,Tower Bridge, SE1 routes and amenities.

Pool, Lifts to all floors. Close to Local Shopping Facilities, Walking Distance toPrice: London£945,000 Bridge. Price: £650,000

ea2 Estate ea2 Estate AgencyAgency Heritage | 35a Court Wapping | 8-10High Sampson StreetStreet | Wapping | Wapping | London | London E1W 1NR E1W 1NA t: 020 7702 3456 t: 020 7702 3456 | f: 020 7702 9168 www.ea2group.com | enquiries@ea2group.com www.ea2.co.uk | property@ea2group.com


Waterman Way, Wapping E1W

Coopers Close, Bethnal Green E1

ea2 are pleased to offer to rent this two double bedroom 1st and 2nd floor ea2 are pleased to offer to let this 2 bedroom, 2 storey modern built house.The maisonette in a quite cul-de-sac. Lounge with laminate flooring, separate kitchen, property comprises of spacious lounge, separate fully fitted kitchen, 3 Piece bathroom Roding Mews, E1W Bathroom and private parking. close to Bethnal Green Tube£1,300 Station. per week suite and garden. GarageWapping & Off street parking. Located close to Wapping station and ea2 are pleased to be able to show you this 6 bedroom 4 bathroom house for rental with a garden. This property is a local bus routes.

very unique property and has views over the canal. Would suit 6 professional people. Close to Tower Hill and Wapping Overground and close to Waitrose. Rental Price: £500 Per Week Rental Price: £400 Per Week

Pierhead Wharf, West Wapping E1W

Sovereign Court, Wapping E1W

Ea2 are pleased to offer for rent this 2 bedroom recently refurbished apartment set ea2 are pleased to offer to rent this characterful listed 3 bedroom, 2 receptions with this quite square.The apartment benefits from lounge, fitted kitchen, bathroom and 3 bathroom Georgian house within The Pierhead. Set over four storeys and at and wood floors. 24 hour porterage/security. Close to Wapping and Shadwell stations, approximately 2000 sq ft, features include high ceilings, wooden flooring and large Cascades Tower, Docklands E14 £500 per week local bus routes and amenities. windows, feature staircase and above average size kitchen with plenty of storage. 2 double bedroom, 2 bathroom 11thft.Within floor apartment this Parking space. The property is over 2,000sq easy access towithin the City ansecure modern development. Comprising a reception room Wharf. with water/ City views, fitted kitchen, master bedroom with walk-in wardrobe & en suite bathroom, additional Canary ‘Waitrose’ supermarket is nearby..

shower room. Balcony. pool, Gymnasium & Tennis court. Concierge. Rental Price: £450 Per Week Rental Price: £995 Swimming Per Week

ea2 Agency Estate Agency | 35a Wapping StreetStreet | Wapping | London E1W E1W 1NR 1NA ea2 Estate Heritage Court | 8-10High Sampson | Wapping | London 020 7702 3456 t: 020 7702t: 3456 | f: 020 7702 9168 www.ea2group.com | enquiries@ea2group.com www.ea2.co.uk | property@ea2group.com


| property |

expert view daniel fox, lettings manager at knight frank islington

Insight into what 2018 will bring for property owners and investors alike

I

t is important for us to help establish expectations for the London rental market in 2018, for investors and homeowners alike. When it comes to predicting the property market, it is best to look at the things we already know. There were four major factors affecting rental values over the last 18 months, including the additional 3 per cent stamp duty surcharge on additional homes in 2016. This caused buy-to-let investors to scramble to buy properties before the 31 March deadline. As a result, we saw a glut of properties hit the market, which facilitated low rental value growth. Secondly, what tenants can afford has changed in recent times and is now affecting rental values over a longer period. Historically, rents have grown largely in line with wages, although recent wage growth in the UK has been stagnant as Brexit-wary employers try to limit their costs. With rising levels of employment,

this is forecast to change, with incomes set to return to real growth by 2019. Thirdly, London’s vibrant economy and the international nature of the city’s businesses means there is always demand for short and long-term rental properties. However, we have seen some corporate relocation budgets reduced as companies try to scale back costs. Lastly, apps such as Uber and Citymapper have given applicants easier access to a wider range of transport. In turn, this means more traditional locations

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are competing with other less central, but more affordable, areas. In summary, the market seems to have accommodated this new supply of properties, and rental values have stabilised. London will always be attractive to employers and employees. However, getting value for money is becoming increasingly important. With the rise in accessible technology, this added value may come from the property itself as opposed to how centrally located it is.

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images Shutterstock

London’s vibrant economy and the international nature of the businesses based here means there is always demand for short and long-term rental properties


Beckenham 020 8663 4433 Bromley 020 8315 5544

Chislehurst 020 8295 4900 Locksbottom 01689 882 988

Orpington 01689 661 400 West Wickham 020 8432 7373

Keston BR2

Bromley BR1

A luxurious 1,339 sqft two double bedroom, two bathroom apartment with private south facing terrace.

Brand new six bedroom, five bathroom luxury detached house located in the heart of Sundridge Park.

£775,000 L/H

£2,000,000 F/H

Two bedrooms

Two bathrooms

Six bedrooms

Five bathrooms

One reception

EER N/A

Three receptions

EER B

Contact Locksbottom 01689 882 988

Contact Bromley 020 8315 5544

Bromley BR1 Stunning, newly built five/six bedroom detached house offering 4,775 sqft of living accommodation.

£2,000,000 F/H Six bedrooms

Four bathrooms

Two receptions

EER B

Contact Chislehurst 020 8295 4900

The Acorn Group, incorporating:

langfordrussell.co.uk


Inspired by history, designed for today T H E U N V E I L I N G O F F O R B U RY L A U N C H I N G S AT U R D AY 2 7 T H J A N U A RY 2 0 1 8

Introducing Forbury, a brand new collection of just ten, four bedroom villas and fourteen, 1, 2 and 3 bedroom apartments. These stunning new homes offer classic, regency style architecture and a luxurious specification. Forbury is superbly located within ½ a mile of Blackheath Village and the train station, providing excellent links into London Bridge in just 13 minutes*.

Prices from ÂŁ530,000 To book your appointment at the launch, between 10am - 4pm, please call 0208 108 1349 or visit www.forbury-blackheath.co.uk Proud Proud to to be be aa member member of of the the Berkeley Berkeley Group Group of of companies companies

Computer generated images are of Forbury and are indicative only. Prices are for guidance only at time of print. *Travel times taken from trainline.com

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Move into your parkside home

Visit the Fenman House show apartment today Now complete, Fenman House is available to move in. Set amongst the manicured parks and gardens of King’s Cross, it is just a few minutes’ walk to the most well connected train stations in the city, meaning all the benefits of central London are on your doorstep. 2 bedroom apartments from £1,425,000*

Marketing suite 14-15 Stable Street London N1C 4AB.

Book your appointment: 020 7205 4962 fenmanhouse.co.uk *Price correct at the time of going to press.

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| PROPERTY |

HOT PROPERTY

A spotlight on one of the finest homes on the market

ST LAWRENCE BAY, SOUTHMINSTER, CM0 Grand living by the water’s edge

C

ruising down the shingle driveway of The Old Rectory in St Lawrence Bay, there is an open lawn with mature trees, and a restored orchard of plum, apple, almond and cherry trees with a bounty of blossom – imagine being able to make a crumble on a drizzly day from your own garden produce. Is there anything more British? An exciting opportunity has arisen with an outstanding example of Georgian architecture coming to market. The recently renovated seven-bedroom property is located in the beautiful village of St Lawrence Bay in southeast Essex, and it’s the perfect place to escape from the hustle of London life with sandy beaches, a sailing club, a watersports club and two pubs within walking distance. Although, it’s not too far removed – it’s less than 10 minutes to a mainline station with a direct train to London Liverpool Street in just over an hour. The locale is the owner’s favourite aspect of the property, saying: “The unique location is one of the things we will miss most about this house. Living in style with such beautiful views of the estuary and the surrounding countryside

has been absolutely lovely.” The house offers panoramic vistas across to the twinkling Blackwater Estuary, where you can watch the Thames barges sail by, from almost every room in the house. The Old Rectory is the ideal purchase for an established or growing family, with well-proportioned reception rooms and a self-contained annexe, with its own kitchen, sitting room, bathroom and two bedrooms. Ideal for teenagers, an au pair or the overflow of family members at Christmas, it also has its own courtyard and parking space. The property as a whole comes in at 4,842 sq ft, so it’s large enough for every family member to have

their own space and privacy. The family room is a place to relax on the weekend after a long bracing walk along the Estuary, with a wood-burning stove and soft grey and purple hues. There’s a more formal sitting room also, with high ceilings, a central fireplace and large sash windows that flood the room with light. The sumptuous interiors continue throughout the house, with the master suite decorated in duck egg blue – a particularly calming shade for a bedroom. It also has an en suite with his and hers sinks and a large walk-in shower and tub. As cosy as the house is for the colder climes, it also serves well for the brief British summer, with south-facing terraces, and an ornamental lake with a jetty and lake house within its 2.8 acres. With no chain, this is a rare opportunity to own a slice of tranquillity, just an hour outside of London.

PRICE: £1.3m

01621 779 809 theoldrectorystlawrence@gmail.com

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CANADA WATER SE16

CHANGE YOUR VIEW Introducing The Terrace Collection

NOW OVER

60% SOLD

This spectacular view could be yours at The Terrace Collection at London Square Canada Water.  Premium 2 and 3 bedroom apartments  Generous roof terraces offering spectacular views  Stylish interiors with superior specification  Central landscaped courtyard  Concierge service  Less than 10 minutes’ walk from Canada Water tube station  Ready for Spring / Summer 2018 occupation

The Terrace Collection prices from £950,000 The Sales Suite and Show Apartment, 24 - 28 Quebec Way, London SE16 7LF, open Thursday to Monday.

Call 0333 666 0106 or email CanadaWater@londonsquare.co.uk

www.londonsquare.co.uk

External computer generated image depicts London Square Canada Water and is indicative only. Internal computer generated image depicts the living/dining area of The Terrace Collection at London Square Canada Water and is indicative only. Details and prices are correct at time of going to press. December 2017.


| property |

investment portfolio CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Urban House living space; Urban House exterior; The Crescent exterior; The Crescent living space, all images courtesy of Berkeley Homes

Kidbrooke Village, SE3 A select number of properties are still available to purchase at Kidbrooke Village. The substantial 4,800-home development in the Royal Borough of Greenwich is the brainchild of Berkeley Homes. With a new village centre, train station and retail spaces, the idea of forging a brand new community has proved popular with buyers, with just a few homes still available. The remaining properties are located in two of its four neighbourhoods; Meridian Gate and Blackheath Quarter. Both of these benefit from being adjacent to the newly created Cator Park, one of the development’s abundant green spaces. Meridian Gate’s The Crescent is a collection of elegant brick townhouses. Ideal for families, the space indoors

(up to 1,366 sq ft) is matched by ample space outdoors, with all properties boasting both front and rear gardens. Set over three floors, there’s an openplan living, dining and kitchen area, three double bedrooms – two of which are en suite – and a family bathroom. Residents can use the private gym and 24-hour concierge service, while underground parking is also available. Properties in the similar Urban Houses category in Blackheath Quarter are also set over three floors, with either three or four bedrooms. Sizes vary, up to 1,467 sq ft. These homes in particular are intended to be flexible and grow along with a family. The ground floor and its living space can even be transformed into a separate studio flat, thanks to an additional living space situated on the second floor. With eco-friendly living in mind, there are provisions for an electric car charging point and the homes are designed in a way that solar panels and heat recovery systems can easily be incorporated. Meanwhile, the properties’ spacious roof terraces offer a more private way to enjoy the 136 acres of eco-friendly open space and parkland. Green living for a family in the city doesn’t come much better than this, and although there are only a select number of townhouses remaining, future phases will bring new opportunities to buy a home here.

PRICE: from £810,000 for The Crescent; £915,000 for a three-bedroom Urban House 020 8150 5151 kidbrookevillage.co.uk

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LIMITED COLLECTION OF URBAN HOUSES Winner of the Innovative Living Award, presented by Sunday Times British Home Awards

A limited number of 3 bedroom homes now remain in the Urban Houses collection at Kidbrooke Village. These innovative contemporary homes within Blackheath Quarter feature:

 Impressive roof terrace with timber decking and artificial grass, ideal for low maintenance modern living  Maximised amount of natural light through cleverly designed features such as lightwells  Spacious open plan living, world class design and high quality finishes

Showhome open to view. Call a member of the sales team on 020 3733 7214 to arrange a viewing.

3 bedroom homes priced at £915,000 Estimated completion – February 2018

Sales & Marketing Suite open daily 10am to 6pm (Thursdays until 8pm). Wallace Court, 40 Tizzard Grove, London SE3 9FD. Photography depicts Showhome at Kidbrooke Village and is indicative only. Prices and information correct at time of sending to press.

www.kidbrookevillage.co.uk Proud to be a member of the Berkeley Group of companies

Delivered in proud partnership with:


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14/12/2017 09:32

City January 2018  

Welcome to the January edition of The City magazine, celebrating the dynamism of the area and bringing you the latest features, articles and...

City January 2018  

Welcome to the January edition of The City magazine, celebrating the dynamism of the area and bringing you the latest features, articles and...