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THE COOLEST ART WORLD

SThe pring Season Art of Style RETROSPECTIVE

ELEGANCE, GLAMOUR & BEAUTY

a new

LONDON, PARIS MILAN & NEW YORK

SPIN

ELEGANT, FEMENINE AND PURE World Photographers

Lighten

UP

Masters Of sublimity

FASHION WEEK

THE best 2014 TRENDS

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Introducing

ARTFASHION

DOUBLE VISION GLAM NOUVE


Zurich.

Switzerland

Karin Heer FASHION Photographer

THE LIFE IS BEAUTY DIVINE STYLE FOR EVERYONE


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Rachel Montgomery

MAKEUP Artist

Sydney

Australia

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Cyril A r t i s t &

Lagel

P h o t o g r a p h e r

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MODERN

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Martin Swears

BEAUTY


Sveta Pasechnik

ART INSPIRE ME,

specially 18 century & twenties...

RED LIGHT

Simona Smrckova

COME AS YOU ARE perfect skin


ART

IS THE MOST INSPIRING FORCE

By Gene Davidov.

Wear it, show it, love it! Be the envy of all who admire it.


l’m alive,I do not want to have regrets, so I say what I think and do what I want &

how I want .

Wolf Steiner

Artwork:

Kriss Logan


EROTICASTRO INTELLIGENCE SPECIAL

Einat Dan MAKEUP Artist/

Stefan Giftthaler FASHION Photographer/


Into the wild A MIDNIGHT ENCOUNTER MOTIVATES EVERYTHING

Julia Spicker

Watching how models work, act or play before the camera, makes for a very interesting scene.


Elegant, feminine and pure style

ARTWORK: Yannick Touzan/ elite’s model/Style: Gaëlle Bon & Makeup: Aline Macouin


Hi, welcome to Runway Magazine® . My name is James Buccelli, CEO, Founder and Publisher of the Runway Magazine brand since 1989, with our first issue in print in 1995. Runway Magazine SS/14 is a very special issue to me. We have done a complete revamp of the magazine and its entities. I would like to welcome our newest member of the Runway Team, Alejandro Di Esko. Alejendro is a true artist with a view point of an editorial-imagery eye that you dont find with our competitors. Alejendro’s vision is more than a magazine. It’s a vision parallel to mine. It is a vision of art, culture, platform and excellence.

aO

Runway Magazine

With only a short time left to complete, Runway Magazine is in on stage to establish itself as a reference for fashion magazines and more generally a disruptor for the entire fashion industry. The publishing industry, having failed to adapt to changes in lifestyles and technologies, this is ripe for radical disruption. This type of impact used to take decades and hundreds of milli y Magazine. I submit to you , that I am going to help change the way you shop, view, purchase and learn about fashion. We have a big surprise for all of you that we can not announce until the Summer Issue. However, it will be worth the wait. We hope you enjoy the new Runway Magazine.

JE

Runway Magazine's story is the story of women, of culture, of what is worth knowing and seeing, of individuality and grace, and of the steady power of earned influence. For millions of women each month, Runway Magazine is the window to that world, inspiring and challenging them to see things differently, in both themselves and their surroundings. From entertainment to world affairs, business to style, design to society, Runway Magazine is a cultural catalyst— a magazine that provokes and drives the popular dialogue. With its unique mix of stunning photography, in-depth reporting, and social commentary, Runway Magazine accelerates ideas and images to center stage.

James Buccelli


Spring season/ BURBERRY Collection PAUL SMITH Collection BORA AKSU Collection MULBERRY Collection

32 52 68 82

MIU MIU Collection 100 ALEXANDER McQUEEN 116 ROLAND MOURET Collection 134 JEAN PAUL GAULTIER Collection 150 RUNWAY UOMO 164

RALPH LAUREN Collection 188 COVER Story 202 RACHEL ZOE Collection 208 MICHAEL KORS Collection 218 DONNA KARAN Collection 232

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MOSCHINO Collection 252 MAX MARA Collection 276 FENDI Collection 290 VALENTINO Collection 314 EDITOR’S Letter 318 Upcoming Summer 324

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Fashion Week

LONDON E Spring season 2014

Robert Beczarski

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Every woman’s look was shown with the same needle-heeled sandal, anchored with a strip of rubber in strong pink or viridian green.

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SpringFASHION

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CHRISTOPHER PUSHES THE STRONG FASHION MESSAGE IN HIS COLLECTIONS FOR BURBERRY RUNWAY M

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BURBERRY SPRING

LONDON

The rainfall of rose petals—milky custard yellow blushed with pink— that tumbled from the skies at the finale of the Burberry Prorsum show said it all. “I wanted this English rose,” explained Christopher Bailey.

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SPRING FASHION WEEK

LONDON 2014

REVIEW

THE COOLEST WORLD Art open minded Elegant, feminine & beauty.

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Dusky pinks, The pretty collection, mint green, with it’s impressive front row of l avender,

mauve, and pale yellow appeared on loose 3/4-length coats, lacy pencil skirts, and soft Spring knits, the brand show us an beautiful and outstanding collection. Surprise brights came via a berry polka-dot blouse tucked into a striped skirt and a sparkling skirt covered in costume jewelry-like embellishment that drew gasps from the crowd. For evening, there were one-shoulder dresses with soft draping, and for accessories fans bright sandals and the newest Burberry bag; the petal.

English roses including Sienna Miller, Suki Waterhouse, and One Direction’s Harry Styles was colored like the tiles in a 1950s suburban dream bathroom—soft sky blue, eau de nil, lilac, coral, and lingerie pinks pinks. This was the dream girl next door as painted by pin-up artist Vargas, perhaps, for those Scottish cashmeres with the prim, high necklines were draped in the back like a cocktail frock to reveal swathes of skin, and the skirtswere shown scandal-sheer over girdle-cut 1940s panties. But, as Christopher promised, the effect was nevertheless “very romantic” and suggestive of “a soft embrace and a cuddle.”

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The flat purses were worn in the latest fashion, not only clutched, but folded and crushed, too, a styling trick that certainly looks stylish, but of course wouldn’t allow for as much as a lipstick let alone the swansdown powder puff that these clothes are crying out for.

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The house’s iconic raincoats and trenches,

were transformed into sleek fifties cocktail dresses with necklines draped across the shoulder, cinched with bejeweled “necklace” belts, and that signature Burberry water-resistant cotton was used not only for a trench, but for a pencil skirt with embroidered cutouts, elaborate as an Edwardian Ascot frock.

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THE GOOD LIFE NEW SHAPES Rudy RSphotogra-

I learn how to work with different people.

personalities, and everyone teaches me something new

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There were enlarge daffodil Prints-flowers are getting higger and bigger next summer and the great attention to detail that he does so well, from a ruched elbow on a suit to the gathered waistband of its trouser.

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PAUL SMITH

LONDON

He doesn’t claim to break ground but what he does, he does impeccably and there’s barely a woman in the world without Paul Smith in her wardrobe, or a country in the world who doesn’t sell it, for that matter.

PAUL SMITH


SPRING FASHION WEEK

LONDON 2014

REVIEW

British designer Paul Smith embraces unexpected hues of fuchsia and yellow for his spring/ summer 2014. On his personal trip, noted by cheeky graphics on sweatshirts.

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THE MAN OFPAUL SMITH IS AN EASY VISION

He have a smart His spring/summer 2014 vision as always, collection was as young and sassy as ever - his is

sharp lines are executed, resulting in a range of tailored sports blazers, cropped jackets, long coats and more. It was fitting that Paul Smith’s show happened at the Central Saint Martins College today, since he has advised and supported so many of Britain’s most talented designers over the years - not that he’d ever name them or claim any credit for their success.

a timeless style that works again and again and the result of a multi-faceted creative mind of a man who really, truly enjoys life and for whom work is play - so he does both with equal enthusiasm. Today he offered crisp striped shirting tucked into wide legged trousers with a rolled cuff that were as high quality as we expect from him – meets-girls trend that prevails - while Seventies-inspired dresses wafted beneath Panama hats for proof that the Paul Smith woman leads the good life.

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ANGEL GLAM I KNOW YOU ARE OUT THERE B

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w k ART

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Laura Neumeister

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A Perfect

STYLE

FOR MANY DECADES, MULBERRY STYLED THE MOST FAMOUS HEADS IN THE WORLD

WITH DISCRETION, HUMILITY, A QUICK WIT AND UNMATCHED SKILL.

REVIEW The Spring 2014 runway show for Mulberry marked the last for creative director Emma— who presented her final collection after six years helming the brand. And, with it, she pulled out all the stops. First, there was Cara Delevingne kicking off the show (with her first London Fashion Week walk of the season), and then there was Turbo, the label’s British bulldog, wearing a floral overcoat. And, of course, there were the many contenders for It Bag status, namely the reversible clutches, that have made Mulberry a household name in the U.K. The Willow bag makes a comeback this season with new prints and colors. The Willow Clutch has also been given an update as it now comes with a strap and can be used as a shoulder bag. While the classic Bayswater bag, has been turned into a double sided Bayswater.

We already miss Hill’s quirky-cool aesthetic—

this time with loose-fitting ‘60s-style shift dresses in fun textured florals — and wish her well on her next adventure. The collection was inspired by “Sixties London” and classic English houses. The bag collection comes in beautiful neutral and pastel colors and new designs including the new striped paneling and floral prints/embellishments.

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A new bag was shown in the runway

the Kensal Shoulder bag with a boxy shape that can double as a clutch and has a briefcase lock.

MULBERRY FASHION

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BORAAKSU

BNEW THE

LONDON

CLASSICS This bright and breezy collection, inspired by Aksu’s Turkish homeland, got everyone dreaming of sun dresses, shorts and holidays.

Bora Aksu’s Spring/Summer 2014

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shapely shouldered, tops & blouses

traditional lace

& crochet trims and sweet little collars in china blue, daffodil yellow and shocking pink.

LONDON

Well, it seems that it isn’t only me getting excited about the SS14 collections, as LFW designers have been sharing their inspiration and work-in-progress via their social media channels as they start the countdown to their shows.

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OPENS UP

loNDON FASHION WEEK got off to

colourful explosion for spring 2014.

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REVIEW Looking to his There was a confidence Turkish heritage, about Bora Aks u’s latest collection

his collection celebrating 10 years at LFW was inspired by childhood memories spent on Aegean coast.The collection was suitably summery with a bright colour palette of yellows, fuchsia and refreshing blues that were influenced by the traditional Turkish ‘Nazareth boncuk’, which is worn to ward off evil. Each piece, from the gorgeously cut blouses with bell-shaped sleeves to his elegant pencil skirts and chic cropped jackets were exquisitely put together and perfectly mixed the modern cuts with the intricate detailing of the traditional handwoven Turkish textiles.

that was so beautiful to see, I adored all the modern feminine touches, the bright colour palette, the geometric lace layered over silk tulles and chiffons and most of all I loved the intricate detailing in each piece especially the hand crochet accents and tassel fringing. As well as being a spectacle on the runway there were a lot of wearable styles in this collection that I am sure will become staples in many women’s wardrobes next summer. I have my eye on a number of pieces but the vibrant Barbie pink floor-length is to-die-for. Fashion month has started, New York Fashion Week is in full swing and London Fashion Week is less than a week away, and I am getting pretty excited to . see what the London-based designers have in store for us for spring/summer 2014.

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BORA AKSU

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lt seems that it isn’t only me getting excited about the SS14 collections,

as LFW designers

have been sharing their inspiration and work-in-progress via their social media channels as they start the countdown to their shows.

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T OLIVIA FOX

Model/

Viktorija Pashuta l find inspiration always and in everything, but mostly in music, art, travels, architecture, poetry!

Everyone you meet in LA

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has a different experience, and I had the opportunity to learn from a few of them.


Life excites me. in general I love the expression by Bill Cunningham and now I use it as my signature. He says: ‘He who seeks beauty will find it’

Style & Modeling/

Sasha gradiva Makeup Art/ dana delaney Photographer‘s Assistant/ mariusz jeglinski

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Whenever

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see

something

or

someone that inspires me, I use this feelings to create.

I usually don’t put aside my ideas and try to shoot them right away while I’m in the zone, otherwise the moments fade away.


ENDOWED WITH CREATIVITY & TALENT

Eric Condet t e

Is a self-taught commercial photographer for all genres of beauty, fashion and lifestyle.

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Simona Smrckova

Drink it in!

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La Cout ure SUBLIME

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THE COOLEST ART WORLD


MiuMiu SPRING

PARIS

SpringFASHION

PARIS

The use of something so trendy now, like that classic cut of a sixties coat, the eighties balloon dress, mixing them all at once,� Prada said.

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CLASSICS OF DIFFERENT GENRES

said Miuccia Prada after her playful

MiuMiu Show.

“The showgirl, the schoolgirl—all of them!” REVIEW

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In the Miu Miu collection Miuccia Prada showed today, she did not disappoint,

It was the companion piece to her Prada presentation, in its rebellious view of femininity, yet here, it was the clichés and classics of the feminine that were explored and presented as perverse. “Anything that is classic, a repeat in history, a genre of woman or clothes that always comes about,” defined the designer after her show. “Classics, classics of trash, classics of chic, classics of the good girl, classics of the bad girl.”

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“I asked myself, What is classic? Why does it become classic?” explained Prada, after showing their spring collection 2014. “People think

that it is romance, but that’s not it—it is something instinctive. Why do women like pink and bows? I am always very intrigued by what attracts people so much.” Miuccia Prada enjoys presenting something slightly off. Underneath a candy coating there is often a lurking sense of something wrong. She is frequently hailed as the intellectual fashion designer—but this is almost damning for someone who enjoys slipping ideas into the mainstream and ultimately works so brilliantly on instinct. Her aim is always to connect to her audience on an immediate level.

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SpringFASHION

LINCOLN CENTER

On the final day of a week of Paris shows that saw designers asserting their identities, yet at the same time pushing themselves and going against the grain, we come to the one who is always doing this: Miuccia Prada.

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fantasy to travel to various erasand historical events, I’m inspired by

to visits the places infused with a spirit of the age.


Moscow

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here and now, filling this short period between the birth and the death with brightness and creation! It is an excellent challenge to myself!


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McQUEEN IN FASHION PARIS

BUYERS LEFT THE SHOW IN AN UPBEAT MOOD, WHILE STYLISTS

ADDED ALEXANDER MCQUEEN TO THEIR LISTS OF MOST-WANTED LOOKS FOR ALL THE MAGAZINE SHOOTS WHICH WILL BE SPUN AROUND THE IDEA OF “TRIBAL” NEXT SPRING.

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Although it was impossible not to be awed by the crafting of surface techniques—

the tiers of over-embroidered lattice-work, the fan-pleated skirts inset with beads, the way an appliquéd coat graduated seamlessly from solidity to an aerated hem—it was a relief to see Burton inserting more wearable ideas into her collection, too.as much as a lipstick let alone the swansdown powder puff that these clothes are crying out for.

The collection was shown in the Republican Guard of Paris. Metal embellishment, jewellery, and aged multiple zip trim are

reminiscent of found objects as are heavy bracelets in different geometric forms. Crocodile harnesses and hard leather jackets may be all very “signature” for McQueen, but in there amongst them, were glimpses—coats, swishy flared skirts, flocked track pants, a pair of summery printed cotton shorts with a matching bra top—of how this collection can translate to daily life.


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FASHION WEEK

The fantastical aesthetic of the label has been re-envisaged with a softer, more organic touch,

With McQueen’s right hand woman Sarah Burton

now at the helm.

The work in these clothes is so intensely elaborate—from the textiles, which looked like checkered tweed, but are actually formed

from feathers and beads, down to the minutely lacy cropped leggings smothered with even more minuscule beading— that the full impact of its stunning quality can hardly be appreciated from even a few steps away. “It was about getting back to the love of making clothes, really,” said Burton. deftly cross-referenced with ninetiesMcQueen street style.

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Drawing special comparisons between tribal dressing and graphics inspired by Mondrian and Picasso. The scenario Burton planned out

for the season wasn’t horsey at all, but concentrated on a cultural merge of African and early-twentieth-century art, deftly cross-referenced with ninetiesMcQueen street style. This is the point where an outbreak of accordion-pleating can simultaneously read as a punk-kilt, a hip-wrap worn by some non-specific African tribe, and a ladylike, swingy skirt.


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McQUEEN Art

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EVERY DAY COLD SOULS

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PERFUME FASHION STORIES

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Roland Mouret

Spring 2014 luckily B

Spring 2014 may mark the first season that Roland Mouret’s collection was not immediately identifiable as one of his own, which, given how fantastic his signature cocktail dresses are, could have made for a disappointment.

the designer stepped out of his comfort zone with a more lighthearted and sporty collection

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SpringFASHION

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ROLAND MOURET

PARIS 2014

FASHION WEEK REVIEW

AN UNEXPECTED 80’s LINEUP Spring Seasson

COLLECTION

This collection is inspired Mouret chose bold colors by the Palais Royal in Paris, and bolder fabrics—double-wool

It’s a place that I love, a place full of chaos yet at peace. Characters such as Jean Cocteau and Sarah Bernhardt were frequent visitors to the park, using the space as a source of archaic inspiration. A quiet hush from the chattering of Paris. An 80’s feel was prevalent with the colorfully striped, patchworked and colorblocked motifs, especially when crop tops, cut-outs and sheer panels were involved. Those looking for the designer’s signature languid dresses will have less to choose from — especially in the neutral territory — but no matter the silhouette, Mouret’s tailoring has always proven to be on point.

crepe, double-face viscose, and stretch leather—to counteract some of the softness and Focusing on separates this season. The gold zippers set against cobalt blue and marigold were a minor, yet highly effective detail that echoed elements used in the ever growing offering of accessories. Oh, right—another thing de Lussy has in the lookbook? A pair of high-drama, circle-frame sunglasses—a new style called the “Farrah,” that, yes, we see ourselves needing now, too. Rewind to the opening outfit – a fierce black and white striped coat, a sheer black vest, a body con skirt with a splash of yellow and flat point shoes bound at the ankle with thick black shiny PVC straps.

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l like contradictions.

Today I shall contradict myself. That is the one way I have of asserting my liberty. The wish to be lost and the need to be found. Enjoy the show! Roland.


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ALLEGRO

I WANT TO SHOW THE WORLD WHAT IT IS TO BE A NATURAL BEAUTY

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All grown up SPRING INSTANT

GO FOR THE GLOW

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IT’S TIME SURREAL FASHION FANTASY


Morning Beaut y Inspires me.

Glorious39 Life in a day!


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Gaultier used his celebrated draped-jersey technique to suggest those beauteous insects, finishing the wings with bands of airy organza so that they ruffled in the breeze.

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JEAN PAUL GAULTIER USED THE SIMPLE METAPHOR AND SEEMINGLY SINGLE IDEA TO BUILD A COLLECTION THAT PROVED TO BE BRIMMING WITH PLAYFUL REINTERPRETATIONS OF THOSE WINGED BEAUTIES AND RICH WITH INVENTIVE TECHNIQUE AND CRAFTSMANSHIP.

REVIEW

The collection opened with “Les Papillons Noirs”Chic black suits in Gaultier’s signature 1940s manner with pencil skirts or cigarette pants. Those shapely jackets, however, had necklines or revers that morphed and unfurled into fluttering wings—sometimes echoed in the stand-away silhouette of the skirt’s pocket flaps.

Some gowns had panniers suggesting a cocoon, while others seemed trapped within a lepidopterist’s — playful ideas that belied the workmanship behind them. One such coat, for example, required 600 meters of silk tulle laboriously twisted into cords of graduated thickness that were then woven together to create the illusion of a catcher’s mesh. There was more netting in overscale embroiderer’s canvas, painstakingly worked with motifs of—yes, you guessed it!

Y JEANGAULTIERPAUL

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Artist

Perla Maarek

Perla Maarek OUT OF FRAME


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BED TIME


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RUNWAY

&

THE COOLEST ART WORLD/ open minded,

Patient, tenacious.

I learn how to work with different people.

personalities, and everyone teaches me something new

I live everyday

like it’s my last one...


I WANT

WORLD WHAT IT IS TO

Frederic Monceaau

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Maurizio Fantini

TO SHOWTHE

BE NATURALLY STRONG

LET ’S GET PHYSICAL


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The NEW Changes AGENTS


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THE COOLEST ART WORLD/ open minded,

Patient, tenacious.

I learn how to work with different people.

personalities, and everyone teaches me something new


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fw

New York

fashion Week

Live Runway Show Now we have an open fashion exhibition of the ins and outs of what's hot and happening covered by RUNWAY Magazine.


In 1943, Publicist Eleanor Lambert ORGANIZED AN EVENT CALLED PRESS WEEK.

Lambert wanted to call fashion editors attention to American designers, who had typically been overshadowed by their European counterparts.

New York

The shows were... held at the Plaza and Pierre hotels in . Not long af ter, the leading fashion publications Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar, began to incorporate the work of those American designers on their pages. Press Week was a success and became a tradition.

OVER TIME, DESIGNERS

BRANCHED OUT FROM THE USUAL PRESS WEEK LOCATIONS, WITH MANY OPTING TO PRESENT THEIR COLLECTIONS IN THEIR OWN SHOWROOMS.

ART FASHION

It was also common to have fashion shows in nightclubs, restaurants and other unique locations around the city.

Introducing

Retrospective... RUNWAY M

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PURE ART Spring 2011 saw a new era begin as the shows moved uptown, to Lincoln Center, bringing fashion together with the arts, in a fitting union. Fashion insiders and followers across the world, bore witness to the evolution of the new venue and it's place in the history of the industry.

New York City. A city of lights, art, fashion, history, music and culture. The ultimate quest for the creative soul.

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The Runway Show

Bryant Park opened up to Fashion Week in October 1993 Introducing supermodels like Cindy, Linda, Christy, and Naomi walked the runways, ushering in a new era of New York fashion that put the city on par with Paris and Milan.

New York Fashion Week was, and remains, a welcome opportunity to catch up with friends and colleagues every few months.


WITH THE POPULARITY OF SHOWS BEING STREAMED LIVE ON THE WEB, THERE IS A GENERAL CONSENSUS THAT GOING DIGITAL IS THE WAVE OF THE FUTURE. Only time will tell what the future of the fashion show will be.

Much talk is being proliferated about this being the last few seasons at Lincoln Center, as the scene plans to take place on 30th Street, just south of the Javits Center, in a new place called the Culture Shed.

Creation of Style

There seems to be more of a fashion extravaganza going on outside each year. Something that Bryant Park could not achieve, due to the obstruction of stairs and sidewalks, for models to strut their stuff.

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Lauren

It’s no secret that Lauren is a master of vintage glamour on the red carpet, but here he also showed that pared down can also mean perfection. Influenced by the style Lauren himself aspired to, his motifs are one part Western cowboy, one part lord and lady of the manor, and one part Carole Lombard in my Man Godfrey.


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Ralph Lauren’s story is the story of the American dream. A tale of ambition and self-invention, its hero has often been compared to F. Scott Fitzgerald’s Jay Gatsby—a character, not coincidentally, that Lauren clothed for the 1974 movie The Great Gatsby. His oeuvre, and the lifestyle tableau he has created, were born in part from the silver-lined-cloud realm of old Hollywood, a fantasy of a nation in which wishes always come true. Ralph Lauren was in an upbeat mood for Spring 2014, kicking off the show with a tomboy twist on mod in strictly black and white.

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There is one designer in New York who is not enamored of transparency, who thinks the only thing that is clear is that women might have a bit of a struggle with sheer, and that would be Ralph Lauren. Windowpane plaids,

stripes, and florals all turned up in clean shapes with a focus on minis and sharp blazers. The next section of the show was as far from black and white as possible with deeply saturated, almost-neon primary colors. Evening was a continuation of the theme with emerald, vermillion, and cobalt all turning up in sweeping ballgown shapes, while a white leather moto jacket over a ruffled skirt looked particularly appealing. With a standing ovation from his family in the front row, the designer took to the runway to rousing applause from the packed crowd.

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Lauren took showing the bod in another direction, upwards, abbreviating everything so that his collection was (on the whole) short, short, short. Only a few others this week have taken to slashing their hemlines, but here’s the thing about being at the start of this four-week odyssey called collections: You never know what idea, notion, or mood might capture the imagination.

You never know what idea, notion, or mood might capture the imagination.

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with it’s impressive Lauren followed the beat of the mod sixties with a ton of graphic ideas worked into the clothes: framing the neckline of a minimal—and mini—black dress with a crisp white collar, accessorized with groovy black patent-leather Mary Janes and, a recurring styling leitmotif here, black knee-high socks; Tattersall checks colliding with the immaculate tailoring of a three-piece suit; and cropped swingy little jackets and thigh-length skirts in a white that gleamed in the kind of way that Neil Armstrong must have felt back in July ’69 when he viewed the landscape of the moon for the first time.

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There were a few of the designer’s dependably elegant pantsuits, but the black and white looks became repetitive fast. When color did finally enter the picture, it was Crayola bright—lime green, acid yellow, neon orange. Not easy hues to wear.

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PROMETHEUSIA EDITORIAL

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KONSTANTIN KONSTANTIN SOROKIN SOROKIN PHOTOGRAPHER

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RACHEL ZOE READY TO WEAR Spring-Summer NEW YORK.

REVIEW In her hands, the West Coast has T h r e e years into her this perennial shine of elegance, contemporary lines, Rachel exuding from every luxe detail. Zoe seems to be able to do no Surprisingly though, not a bag, dangly necklace or array of wrong. Famous faces studded her front row as bangles in sight for Summer 14. Clearly, she’s heard the comments about her previous seasons, where she’s accessorized shows within an inch of its runway, almost to the point of drowning out her design. Seen clearly, the clothes have enough personality to do the talking all on their own, and include a few smart details making good use of Zoe’s styling tricks. Clearly, Zoe’s as much of a design powerhouse as she is a televised darling, and she contiues to unfold highly desirable things.

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surely as ever, and on the runway, her 70s-influenced notions of glamour were faultless. “The collection is definitely influenced by California – it has sequins, it has romanticism” she wrote on Twitter before her show. Her jet-setting clientele – real or aspiring – will have plenty of options when come the summer months, and even the primest lady would find no wrong in a Cali-chic flowy white denim skirt but might enjoy the perforated white skirt and lavaliere blouse more.

kRACHEL Zoe As the seasons go by, her stylist eye gives her a competitive edge when it comes to turning out clothes that answer the untold desires of a cohof fans. It works, and it’ll keep on working.

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“It’s that forties vesus seventies moment!” said Kors. If ever there was a time and place to win the hearts of women with a collection which featured the easy glamour of breezy, flippyand feminine forties-style print dresses.


SPRING FASHION WEEK NEW YORK 2014

you will see SOME

MOST DESIRED DRESS OF NEW YORK FASHION WEEK.

This season, Michael Kors Michael Kors must have presented an eclectic, been feeling groovy while ladylike collection with plenty of retro designing Spring 2014 With a

nods including keyhole day and evening dresses, crocheted skirts, platform chunky heel sandals, high-waist swimwear, bold head-to-toe prints, pencil skirts and killer menswear -inspired power trenches. A number of the looks came finished with an extra long or extra wide leather belt. Elongated keyhole necklines were featured prominently for evening along with printed bra tops paired with coordinating bottoms. As has been the running theme this season, silhouettes were kept loose giving movement to nearly every look that made its way down the runway. When Kors began to affirm the result of that unspoken female caucus on the runway, in many differing variations—something crocheted, something sparkly, something slashed to show toned thigh, something abbreviated in teeny playsuit form? Well, it was love.

70s soundtrack — including Bette Midler and Fleetwood Mac — floaty printed tea dresses, belted cardigans, and slit maxi skirts wafted down the runway in a ‘40s-meets-’70s mashup that is utterly wearable down to the chunky platform sandals. There was a heavy emphasis on luxe holiday wear with ‘40sstyle two-pieces and even a pair of denim shorts. We never say this after a show, but we couldn’t feel more relaxed.The place you hear the honest reviews about the success or failure—or indifference —to a collection is always in the conversations amongst the crowds as they flood out of a show and onto the next thing. In this case, the reaction— between the thin and the curvy, the tall and the short, the twenty- to the fifty-year-olds—was one unanimous exhalation: “I just want it all!” “It’s that forties versus seventies moment!”

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Eyes right/

Imagine the scene. Uncannily, many in the audience had settled themselves on the bleachers at 10:00 a.m., wearing various versions of their own vintage-y floral midi dresses. Why? One of those collective decisions that was somehow made between every woman and her closet as she decided how to compose herself in  New York’s 90-degree heat.

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For the most part, Karan swapped prints for solid colors on her evening dressesw. Kati Nescher’s spice and terra-cotta halter gown was knockout.

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Karan swapped prints for solid colors on her evening dresses,

and the show ended on an up note.

Most if not every collection for She had the fundamentals of a Karan starts with a journey— beautiful lineup—one that felt actual, emotional, metaphysical, signature Donna: Languid dresses slung with spiritual. Indeed, she may have been on her way to her leather belts at the hips, softly constructed coats and jack-

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next travels right after her spring 2014 show; she appeared from the wings after the models took their lap of honor carrying a burnished brown leather fretwork tote, as if directly en route to the airport to some new clime, some fresh adventure. What was entirely evident from this show though was that the latest odyssey Karan has been on involved the Indian subcontinent, with the collection’s woodblocked prints, its colors at once both peaceful and calm (myriad blues, conjuring up sky and ocean) and warm and earthy (various vegetable-dyed shades of brown and tan that she dubbed spice, musk,and patchouli), and in the appliqued leathers that conjured up cut-out wooden screens in some dusty palace in Jaipur.

ets that slipped on like a robe, an inviting palette of sea blues and warm, sunbaked browns. But she took a wrong turn somewhere along the way. Her program notes described the collection as a quest: “How to turn the sensuality and ease of a hand-blocked scarf into a chic urban wardrobe of day into night pieces,” they said. But block prints are better in small quantities. On a silk caftan shirt and matching stretch georgette wrap skirt, they overwhelmed. Ditto goes for the printed pajama pants paired with a handwoven suede jacket trailing fringe to the knees. The enormous crushed leather hats didn’t help her cause, although the large pendants on leather cords looked new and cool. The crowd shrugged its collective shoulders and dashed off to the next show, but it’s worth bringing up.

Yet let’s say there have been elements of non-Western dress at work in these shows, through the use of folding, draping, and wrapping, the handcrafted graphic prints, the touches of scarf fringing, and the Southern Asian and North African color palettes.


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Cyril

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DO NOT LOSE SIGHT OF THIS WANDERING ARTIST whose talents are creating another world that cannot be ours to keep, yet allows us a glimpse of it’s magnificence through his creations.


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SPRING FASHION WEEK MILAN 2014

REVIEW

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SpringFASHION

CELEBRATING MOSCHINO’S 30Th

Anniversary

To celebrate the fashion house’s 30th anniversary, Creative Director Rossella Jardini wished to pay tribute to the memory of founder Franco Moschino by re-interpreting all the iconic themes that have inspired his aesthetic vision. She presents an exclusive mise en scene that plays on the double spirit of the contemporary woman, the good and evil. Opening the show are the designer’s 4 favorite models: Pat Cleveland (strapless dress with Italian flag and cow, fall winter 85/86), Violeta Sanchez (coat with teddy bears, fall/ winter 88/89), Amalia (Italian flag dress, fall/winter 88/89) and Giselle Zelauy (garbage dress, spring/summer 94) , who wear symbolic garments from the Maison’s archives. Then they leave the scene to the spring/summer 2014 collection with a series of female characters that describe the same woman in her “good” & “bad” versions.

Between the memory of Franco Moschino and the look towards the present and future of the Maison Rossella Jardini offers must-have pieces like the leather jacket with a heart or dotted with shiny studs, the iridescent jacket with large metallic zippers and chain bracelets on the cuffs, pearl embroidery on lightweight, see-through dresses, refining the most delicate looks with patterns of colored roses printed or embroidered on fabrics in white, black and red. Hearts, pearls and chains. Raised lettering with the logo letters in shiny metal and gold, on both the clothes and the accessories. A rhythm that brings together different shapes and distinctive details, from “cropped” silhouettes and long petalled cuts, from striped patterns and Vichy designs, from flirty culottes and sophisticated organza dresses, completely hand-embroidered and trimmed with ruffles and large flounces. And for the grand finale, highlighted by the live voice of Gloria Gaynor singing I AM WHAT I AM, the historical models return to the scene to introduce a series of more vintage looks.

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SpringFASHION

MOSCHINO

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The nun, the maid, the playmate, the biker and many other varied personalities reveal a creative duality that alternates street-glam style with a bon chic, bon genre spirit, through a collection that is elegantly easy, accessible and, at the same time, highly refined, and speaks to all women.


Masters

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Artur Cieślakowski Art Work/

YvonneSchlaback Stylism/


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Lucie Bremeault


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Gabrielle Benot

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Contemporary Artist.


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ln my earlier days, I was influenced by the art of masters

Gustav Klimt, Salvador Dali and Pino Daeni.

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Among other classic painters

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I was fascinated by the vibrancy and richness of their compositions.


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The Art of Style l’d say I’m unconventional in my thinking. Definitely a risk taker, curious and perceptive.

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I like to challenge

traditions and bend a few rules. I love working with the incomplete ideas, analyze and experiment.

is one of my favorite things is making mental transformations, even though it makes me to cope with the uncertainty, as my

ideas evolve through a series of modifications. As to my style: I’d describe it as a semi-abstract expressionism. Spontaneous, subconscious creation with bold, large, intense brush strokes- I try to capture the spirit in texture, colors on a large scale. I’m a bit disorganized, especially when it concerns trivial matters. Somewhat absent minded at times. Keeping focus when things get out of line or not exciting. I like simple elegance, a sexy minimalism without a tacky factor. Coco Chanel is my inspiration and I admire her for the personal sacrifices, that resulted in a well-deserved status of the Designer of the century. I think Tom Ford is another creative genius and I like Roland Mouret!t

I’d compare myself to Carl Yung. I like to dig deep in a complexity of one’s mind and analyze the dream interpretations. Art influences society

on a bigger scale, because it involves everythingpainting, sculpture, performance arts, fashion designart is everywhere! Society is influenced by art in more subtle ways than we realize. My art on the other hand can affect people on a smaller scale- it can be thought provoking, bring peace or change the emotional state. years from now I see myself working with a team 5 In of creative people on yet another exciting project. I see myself being inspired by somebody and being an inspiration to the others, making an impact socially and years from now I’d like to be in 10 on a personal level. In the same type of managerial role, but channeled onto my kids, on top of working with the emerging artists and using my skills and knowledge to help them succeed.o

Imagination is more important than information—and without it“ we wouldn’t have culture or spirituality.” Albert Einstein


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AS COAT SPECIALISTS, TEAM MAX MARA FACE A CHALLENGE AT THE SPRING SHOWS . CAMEL HAIR JUST ISN›T A WARM-WEATHER MATERIAL, AND DOUBLE-FACE CASHMERE

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NOT SO MUCH EITHER.

A couture version of the twinset, the program notes called it— The show opened with a

slipdress in double-face cashmere and a matching coat in the stuff . With faint gray hose and silvery sandals, the model was a vision in monochrome.

Head-to-toe single color was the other big takeaway. It looked effortlessly chic on skirt suits and

tailored coats over sheath dresses, as well as on more directional outfits like an oversize tee tucked into a long pencil skirt with suspenders.

All of this felt true to the Max Mara label (save for the too-cute-for-their-own-good rompers. The fabric play was on brand, too. Beyond the double-face, the designers leaned on all-natural materials like linen, canvas, and a silk with the rough, raw texture of burlap, juxtaposed with others that had a more high-tech hand. Denim separates were treated to resemble a Robert Ryman canvas—call it art-gallery acid wash.

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LINCOLN CENTER

SpringFASHION

MaxMara IAN GRIFFITHS

Few people when they hear “late seventies, early eighties New York” think “oh yes, restraint.” But, as MaxMara head designer Ian Griffiths says, “We always look at the other side of the coin.

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ART is everywhere! I’M TOUCHED BY BEAUTYgenerally

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I WAS BORN IN LUXEMBOURG, I AM CURRENTLY BASED IN PARIS.

MY GREATEST ACCOMPLISHMENT IS MADE OUT LITTLE ACCOMPLISHMENT, TO ME DELIVERING QUALITY IMAGERY TO HAPPY CLIENTS IS  FOR ME A VERY BIG SATISFACTION.

To me, the beauty is the result Beauty of music translates into of the creation of emotions— an immediate physical reaction—

something universal that generally doesn’t need explanation. Various public figures have influenced my life at diverse stages: Philip Starck, Steve Jobs, Rodney Mullen, Erwin Olaf and many others. To me photography is a gift you make to the others. Capturing or creating beauty is that extra something that makes me happy to share when I can because it a common gift to the world given by the model’s energy, involvement and a crew’s talent to operate.

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of your body. I love music! Sometimes, I link my photos to songs online when I feel it ads to the mood. Everyday is a new chance to welcome an opportunity. In this ndustry you never know what is going to happen. Right now I want to find the right Agent that will work with my on amazing projects. When I see Beauty in any form, usually it’s generated by light. It could be a sunset or light reflecting an interesting surface or light creating an unexpected shadow.

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Some of the world’s most famous models, including Cara and Geor-

gia Jagger, were disguised with roughly chopped black wigs, their uniformity making the clothes all the more distracting. Chiffon layered tunic dresses, shorts and vests in varying shades of blue and grey were protected by heavy dark brown leather coats, before the chiffon froze to woven PVC that glittered in the lights.

Geometric mosaics of shaved red or yellow fur smothered

chiffon coats and shift dresses with generous folding at the hip - then one strapless neon peach chiffon dress stole the show for a moment before a disco ball mini dress took over the limelight. It was fun - the technical treatments of every carefully conceived fabric displaying Karl’s love of modernity.

The fourth generation of the family also contributed today. Silvia Fendi,

FENDI Spring

Milan

granddaughter of foundersAdele and Edoardo, was named creative director and today offered large sculpted shoppers 1992 of accessories at the house in in bright orange and white and clutches that tucked under model arms like precious, fur-pompommed Pekingeses. Sivia’s daughter Delfina Delettrez Fendi added fur and crystal adornments to ears, fingers and wrists.

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We felt a buzz in the air as if we were about to see something new, which is pretty impressive for a house that has been trading since 1925 (with Lagerfeld at the helm since 1965).

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Of all Karl Lagerfeld’s jobs - Chanel, his own label, his higstreet collaborations, his fizzy drink partnerships Fendi has come to represent his most serious vision over the years.

FENDI FASHION WEEK MILAN 2014

THE VISION Of Karl Lagerfeld

IS HIS LAST COLLECTION Formal, occasionally futuristic & fur-orientated.

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Karl Lagerfeld was inspired by Billie Holiday’s song “Violets for Your Furs,” and he’d been thinking about the charming old tradition that dictated a woman’s husband or lover would pin her with a floral corsage as she set off cross-country by train.

MILAN

It’s for women with watertight fashion credentials to go with their ball-breaking bank accounts. For spring/summer 2014 he has lightened her up and flooded her with colour - from the first degrade organza tiered dress that fell from dark pink!


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We felt a buzz in the air as if we were about to see something new, which is pretty impressive for a house that has been trading since 1925 (with Lagerfeld at the helm since 1965).


Artby:

Quentin Legallo

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Artby:

Quentin Legallo

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CHANGING LINES THE LATEST TRENDS, CHIC SEPARATES AND BOHEMIAN FEMININITY

Nothing Personal

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Francis Urrutia

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ART FLEUR! HUMILITY and STRENGHT.

Originally from Ghana, Fleur has incorporated an ancient Ghanaian symbol as her company logo and featured it in several of her designs.

FASHION DESIGNER BASED IN LONDON. Fleur launched her brand IN 2012 on the international stage during Mercedes-Benz Fashion week Malta, subsequently, three of her collection pieces were featured in Vogue Italia that month, and last year during Boston Fashion week.

FASHIONDESIGNER

FLEUR KELINZA


YOU CAN IMPRESS ME WITH EVERYTHING THAT IS BEAUTIFUL And there's so much beauty around us we’re often just too focused on ourselves.

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SPRING FASHION The Romantics

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LAST EMPEROR Valentino was one of the first designers to make himself the inspirational figure at the center of the story. He is a born dreamer and the last true couturier, who let us in on his creative process and also let us in on the life he built around him to sustain this process. Tyrnauer.

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Magazine Copy Editors/

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Contributors Writers/ Legal Counsel US/

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LOVE IS DELICIOUS!

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Worldwide Distribution Source Interlink Companies, Inc.


ART

Fashion

DIRECTOR

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STYLE & PRODUCTION


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Stefan Bourson Fashion & Beauty Photographer

The shimmering water of the pool,

or the golden sands of the beach, you are in your element, you are at ease, so comfortable in your environment‌ you relax.

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The Sun Is your energy, You are recharged.


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