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RTW Webzine

Ready To Wear, Round The World

2013, #01

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Creative & Business information on fashion brands that are making their mark round the world...

Men’s Business of Fashion Pitti Uomo London Men’s Collections

Corporate Initiatives The Woolmark Company Satya Paul

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Heimtextil 2013 Messe Frankfurt will soon expand portfolio of events with the launch of Heimtextil India in June 2014...


ne of the world’s leading trade fairs for home and contract textiles, Heimtextil organized by Messe Frankfurt was held from 09-12 January 2013 in Frankfurt, Germany. The edition kicked off with a great start with 2,658 exhibitors from 62 countries and 66,000 visitors. With an increased level of internationality on the visitor side: 67 percent of trade buyers came from outside Germany. “Heimtextil has once again underscored its preeminent position as the world’s leading trade fair for home and contract textiles. The fair also succeeded in maintaining the number of visitors at an almost constant level despite the difficult economic climate prevailing at present,” said Detlef Braun, Member of the Executive Board of Messe Frankfurt. The Heimtextil trend show delivered a comprehensive look at pioneering design developments – conceived and implemented by Stijlinstituut Amsterdam. These Dutch designers used the exhibitors’ latest products to fashion an attractive presentation of the aesthetics, shapes, materials, designs and colours of the new season. The trend show was accompanied by presentations from leading experts in the field. With the ‘Young Creations Award: Upcycling’, Heimtextil presented the first award for young people focusing on the principle of sustainability. Design talents Tobias Bast, Christina Jansen and Daniel Tsveikov of Aachen University of Applied Sciences were chosen as the winners and received the new prize on the first day of the fair, 9 January 2013. Four other teams of young designers also received awards for their creative work. The winners were chosen by trade visitors and exhibitors of the fair. The competition for young designers will be repeated on the occasion of the next Heimtextil in January 2014.

Mast Head RTW Number 001, Jan 2013 Online Edition,

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RTW|Business of Fashion

Market Focus: China

G-Star opens its biggest ever store in Shanghai Though the Dutch brand has stores in Shanghai, this city-centre address is the brand’s largest store to date...


ith a network of approximately 6000 boutiques across the globe, this Dutch brand is known for its innovative and cutting edge style in the world of denim. The brand has a strong following worldwide because of its continuous experimentation and product development. With an already established presence in China, the latest from the brand is its largest store opening in Shanghai. The store is second in the city of Shanghai for the brand. The new flagship store measures 750 sq meters with floor space shared over two levels and an extra floor for future usage. The store carries the men’s and women’s collections and a dedicated area of 25 sq meters for the brand’s footwear. The significance of the store is its large denim wall which measures over 11 meters in height and spans all its levels. Another interesting element is its large illuminating glass structure. The store reflects the brand’s raw character and maintains its distinct and unorthodox style.

Business of Fashion|RTW Fashion: E-commerce

Victoria Beckham to launch e-commerce site The fully transactional website will be launched in Spring 2013...


ne of the most sought after celebrity, Victoria Beckham is taking her brand one step forward with a move towards digital expansion. The soon to be launched E-commerce website will be unveiled in spring 2013. The creative agency, King & Partners, the designers of Carine Roitfeld’s digital presence, are in charge of the new website. The dedicated e-commerce platform and branded Victoria Beckham content will be designed to be shared across various social platforms. The art direction will be taken care of by John Lu and Issac Lock. John Lu previously has handled projects with Louis Vuitton, Hakaan and Katie Grand amongst others. The website will be offering a selection of items including accessories, sunglasses, denim and last but not least the ‘Victoria, Victoria Beckham’ line – the designer’s second, more affordable ready-to-wear line. The e-store will be launched in Europe and the United States to begin with.



RTW|Business of Fashion

Market Focus: China

10 Corso Como to open in Shanghai The new store in Shanghai plans to open in Fall 2013...


Corso Como and Trendy International Group are joining forces to bring the 10 Corso Como concept to China for the first time, with a new store in Shanghai planned to open in Fall 2013. Founded in 1990 in Milan by style visionary Carla Sozzani, 10 Corso Como pioneered the idea of the concept store, creating a unique lifestyle destination presenting a blend of art, music, fashion, design, cuisine and culture. Promoting its philosophy of “slow shopping”, 10 Corso Como aims to build a community around an appreciation of images, objects and ideas. Partnering with Trendy International Group, 10 Corso Como is embarking on its first venture into the world’s second largest luxury market, Greater China. With its first store in Shanghai, 10 Corso Como will bring Chinese consumers skilfully edited choices to inspire and provoke curiosity. A consistent flow of new designers, artists and writers will be brought to the public’s attention, offering fresh ideas on a sophisticated lifestyle. Trendy International Group, has built an unmatched reputation as designer, distributor and retailer of China’s favourite women’s fashion lines Ochirly and Five Plus, as well as the leading men’s fashion brand Trendiano and children’s brand Love Ysabel. With close to 2,000 retail outlets, Trendy International Group was invested by L Capital to build on its fashion leadership position in the domestic market, regionally and globally.

Opening on Nanjing West Road, at the centre of Shanghai’s luxury fashion scene, the 10 Corso Como Shanghai store will be designed by world-renowned painter, sculptor and concept artist, Kris Ruhs. The 2,500 sq m store will be China’s first international concept destination of curated fashion, art and design, offering the Chinese consumer a new, authentic option in making elegant and innovative lifestyle choices.

Business of Fashion|RTW

Market Focus: China

TOPSHOP will open its first Hong Kong shop in partnership with department store, Lane Crawford The move marks the first time that the British high street brand has had a strong presence in Asia...


opshop’s top boss, Sir Philip Green has announced the launching of Topshop in Hong Kong with Lane Crawford. The highly anticipated Hong Kong store will have prime street frontage whilst occupying a prestigious corner site within Asia Standard Tower, Queens Road Central, a neighbourhood fast becoming a hub for international fashion brands. The store will trade over 12,000 square foot across two floors. The ground floor will feature two distinct rooms. The first will showcase TOPSHOP fashion lines against a palette of raw concrete and gloss white panels, whilst the second room will feature the brand’s accessories and make up collections. The top floor will have a dedicated shoe lounge with custom glass fixtures and a mirrored ceiling. A by-appointment Personal Shopping area will offer the full VIP treatment in a dedicated suite off the main floor. Sir Philip Green, owner of TOPSHOP commented, “I am delighted to be launching Topshop in Hong Kong in 2013, with Lane Crawford’s LAB Concept as our chosen partner. Their team’s expertise in the Chinese market is invaluable to us. This is certainly a very exciting step in the continued growth of TOPSHOP as a global, yet uniquely British, brand. I am confident that the fashion-loving Hong Kong customers will enjoy the retail experience and fantastic product offer that TOPSHOP will deliver for them.” Andrew Keith President of Lane Crawford added, “We are excited to be working with Sir Philip Green and his fantastic team to bring TOPSHOP to the market as a full retail concept that truly represents the creativity and energy of the brand, at a time when the contemporary market in Greater China is booming,”



RTW|Business of Fashion

Market Focus: China

Prada opens its first store in Hefei, China Pursuing its aggressive expansion in China, Prada opens its first store in the third tier city of Hefei, Eastern China...


he store was opened on 2nd January 2013 and is located in the renowned Intime Plaza mall. Designed by the architect, Roberto Baciocchi, the store spans over a total surface of 400 square metres on a single level, and offers the women’s and men’s ready-to-wear, leather goods, accessories and footwear collections. Its visually impressive outer storefront, which pays tribute to artist Carlos Cruz-Diez, is characterised by a black marble base and a structure made of enlightened backlit gold coloured aluminium and polished steel blades, that create an unusual kinetic effect. The eyewear collections are displayed in a special area, covered in black marble and mirrors. This room leads to the other spaces, that offer women’s and the men’s collections. The women’s areas are characterised by a sophisticated and elegant atmosphere and by Prada’s reference design elements: chequered black and white marble floor, walls covered in pale green fabric, display niches with polished steel profiles and cera-coloured saffiano leather shelves. The men’s area, that also has a direct access from inside the mall, features materials - such as ebony wood, black saffiano leather and castorino-coloured velvet that refer to the masculine universe.

Business of Fashion|RTW Acquisitions

Diesel’s Renzo Rosso secures a majority stake in Marni


he brand led by Gianni Castiglioni and designed by Consuelo Castiglioni will enter the orbit of Renzo Rosso, selling the majority of its shares to the holding company of the Vicentine entrepreneur. And this is how the venetian group from € 1.3 billion in revenues in 2011 further confirms its privileged position in Italy as a centre of fashion that already has in its bouquet of brands Maison Martin Margiela, Viktor & Rolf, Diesel as well as holding licenses for Dsquared, Just Cavalli, Vivienne Westwood Red Label Man and Marc Jacobs Men, managed by Staff International. The confirmation which came after a press conference during which, it was given the announcement of the agreement, but details were not given about the precise extent of the investment nor the precise number of majority of the capital acquired by Rosso. This operation will not change the attitude of the brand. Consuelo Castiglioni will remain as the creative director while Gianni Castiglioni and Renzo Rosso will be part of a steering committee. An operation of this kind was in the air for months given the need of Marni to raise capital in order to strengthen the distribution network at the time, as pointed out by Gianni Castiglioni, has a hundred stores, of which only two in Italy and a turnover, as stated in the conference, reaching 130 million euro in 2012. It was with this term that the brand seems to have been courted by private equity funds, and in the past the group had not ruled out the possibility of listing on the Stock Exchange to find the necessary resources for development. In the end, the choice fell on Renzo Rosso, who has always said he was ready to grow the fashion pole with new brands. “Our plan is to do a modern holding company and with this, we acquired the majority of Marni. But for now the brand will maintain independent because we still have to evaluate the organizational structure”, Renzo Rosso, owner of Diesel commented at the press conference. “Marni is a kind luxury’, this is the definition that I think, is best suitable for the brand. It is an alternative modern luxury brand with established businesses, little affected by the crisis” said Gianni Castiglioni, “To compete we had decided to merge with a group, and this is the best - he added -. We discarded a priori approaches with the financial world because they follow philosophies in the short term and this is not the case. We expect rapid and significant benefits.

New Appointments

Levi Strauss appoints Harmit Singh as CFO Harmit Singh is the second Indian on the denim major’s leadership team after its chief human resource officer, Varun Bhatia. Levi Strauss & Co. recently appointed Harmit Singh as the company’s executive vice president and chief financial officer, who joined the office on January 16, 2013, reporting to company president and chief executive officer, Chip Bergh. In this role, Harmit Singh is responsible for the company’s global information technology and finance functions, including financial planning and analysis, accounting and controls, tax, treasury, risk management, internal audit and investor relations. Mr. Singh brings almost 30 years of experience as a financial leader within the hospitality, restaurant and travel industries. Most recently, Singh was chief financial officer of Hyatt Hotels Corporation, where he successfully led the financial planning and operations for an organization with about 500 hotels across 45 countries. In addition to his four years at Hyatt Hotels Corporation and fourteen years of various global leadership roles at Yum! Brands, the world’s largest restaurant company, (including CFO of Pizza Hut), Singh also worked at American Express India and Price Waterhouse in India. “Levi Strauss & Co. is admired around the world for its iconic brands,” said Mr. Singh. “I am excited to be joining a company with such a rich and established heritage. I look forward to working with leaders in the company and the finance and technology group as we grow the brands globally and enhance value for all stockholders.”

Chip Bergh

Varun Bhatia



RTW|Business of Fashion

New Entry

Maison Martin Margiela & Alexis Mabille awarded the Haute Couture status The status has been granted by The Commission de Classement Couture CrĂŠation in Paris...


he Couture status now officially welcomes the two French labels into the couture world; determined by the number of gowns shown, the size of the atelier, the standard of bespoke and handmade pieces, and whether or not the label shows the mandatory two collections a year. Mabille has been showing couture collections since 2008, while Margiela debuted its first haute line in July 2012. The other fashion houses to recently launch couture include Dolce & Gabbana, who showcased its Alta Moda line in July 2012 in Sicily to a select group of press.

Business of Fashion|RTW New Horizons

Mango to launch Kidswear, Sportswear & Lingerie

Fashion Acclaim

Suzy Menkes awarded Fiorino d’Oro of the City of Florence

The Spanish brand Mango may be becoming a one-stop-shop...

Menkes received the accolade during Pitti Immagine Uomo 83 on 9 January 2013 in Florence’s Palazzo Vecchio...



fter the launch of the Touch line in 2006 and H.E in 2008, the company is continuing to diversify. With an aim of diversifying, the end of 2013 should see the launch of Mango Kids, while there is talk for an additional line, Mango Young, aimed at teenagers. Finally, the group will be offering a selection called “Sports & Intimates”. Though the retailer dabbled in lingerie in 2008 (the venture wasn’t continued), the Kids and Teenage apparel lines will be a first try for Mango. It also seems as though Mango is looking to diversify through its licensing agreements,

just announcing its first partnership with glasses-maker, Opticalia. The brand is continuing its global expansion, with 2400 stores already under its belt. The strategy seems to be paying off with the brand so a 20% rise in revenue this year to 1.7 billion Euros. Founded in 1984 in Barcelona by two Turkish brothers, Isak and Nahman Andic, who had immigrated to Spain. Mango currently has a total of 2,415 stores in 107 countries worldwide. The brand’s expansion continues with the recent openings that have taken place in cities of the stature of Tokyo, Beijing, Erlangen or Verona.

he Mayor of Florence, Matteo Renzi handed in the “Fiorino d’Oro” of the City of Florence to Suzy Menkes, head fashion editor of the International Herald Tribune and one of the most prestigious names in international fashion journalism. This honour is usually conferred by the Municipality of Florence to distinguished individuals who, thanks to their excellent work in the field of culture, arts, politics, philanthropy, sports or international activities in all their forms, have brought honour and have served to national and international community and contributed to its cultural growth therefore becoming worthy of being held up to public praise.



RTW|Business of Fashion

Market Focus: Middle East

to open in Istanbul


he luxury retailer had already announced projects for Beijing, Istanbul and Doha. In its quest to continue international business, the Lafayette group has now selected its official partner for the Turkish metropolis of Istanbul. The deal has been drawn with Demsa for the opening of a flagship store sometime in 2015. “The sales floor will cover around 9,000 square meters,” said a company spokesperson in Paris. Both partners were in negotiations for a long time, as far back as the summer of 2011 when the joint-venture was first reported in this publication. Demsa is a one of the most established fashion and luxury companies in Turkey. Established in 2000, the Group brought many famous brands to Turkish consumers. Demsa Groups store chain has 108 different outlets spread all over Turkey, and employs more than 1000 people in a 40.000 m2 area with its well-established position in the sector. The group is already partners to brands such as

Harvey Nichols, Guess, Salvatore Ferragamo, Michael Kors and Gerard Darel. Like the Casablanca Galeries Lafayette located in the Morocco Mall, the Istanbul store will benefit from its location in a shopping centre, the Boulevardi Mall. The mall is also home to “upscale apartments, a 5-star hotel, a cinema and a large number of ready-to-wear shops,” said the French group in a statement. The developer of the Istanbul mall is Emaar Turkey, the Turkish subsidiary of Dubaibased Emaar Properties group, already operating the Dubai Mall and partner to Galeries Lafayette in Dubai. Galeries Lafayette, internationally has stores in the German capital, Dubai and Casablanca. The next openings are scheduled for 2013 in Jakarta and Beijing, followed by Doha in 2014 and Istanbul in 2015. All international stores are operated as franchises except the Berlin and Beijing locations. In China, the Galeries Lafayette Group has formed a joint venture with the Hong Kong giant IT Holding.

Business of Fashion|RTW Fashion Snippets

A Quarter of BRIC tourists dedicated to luxury spending Collaborations

Gucci partners with Japanese Manga Artist, Hirohiko Araki


ucci has announced a unique collaboration between Creative Director Frida Giannini and renowned Japanese Manga artist, Hirohiko Araki. Inspired by Giannini’s 2013 Cruise Collection, Araki has created an exclusive Manga (Japanese comic strip) story that will bring the windows of Gucci’s worldwide direct store network to life in January and February 2013. The special Araki window installation will roll out across more than 70 Gucci boutiques around the world from January 3, 2013 and will remain until mid February. A multi-media campaign will complement the window installation, including in-store and viral videos and the publication of the full Manga story exclusively in Japan’s Spur magazine and on Gucci’s Facebook page. Entitled “Jolyne, Fly High with Gucci,” Araki’s Manga tells the adventure of Jolyne Cujoh, a student who inherits a keepsake from her mother’s Gucci collection. Propelled by the mystery behind her vintage treasure, she embarks on a journey that transcends time. Echoing the sensual colour palette and graphic undertones of Giannini’s Cruise collection with symbolic references to the House’s iconic Flora pattern that has been reinterpreted in a number of the collection’s signature pieces, Araki’s extraordinary technique gives a three dimensional effect to his characters.


bout 25% of tourists from the BRIC economies of Brazil, Russia, India and China view shopping as their main purpose of their holiday, according to a new survey conducted by TCI Research. (Tourism Competitive Intelligence) Figures have shown that 70% of BRIC tourists regularly shop during their vacation, which is 30% more than the global average. The explosion in luxury tourism was recently identified in World Travel Market’s ‘Global trends report’, which found that 95% of Chinese visitors are on organised tours when they visit Louis Vuitton in Paris.

The luxury group PPR looking for ‘young’ luxury brands for new growth


s per the company’s chief executive, Francois-Henri Pinault, PPR is actively seeking to invest in young luxury brands to further its business.



RTW|Business of Fashion

Market Focus: Europe

Market Market:Focus: EuropeEurope

H&M’s “& Other Stories” to launch in ten European countries


Jimmy Choo will launch a new Menswear Flagship store in London The store is due to open in Spring 2013 & will showcase an assortment of Jimmy Choo men’s accessories across two floors...


he British accessories brand has signed a lease on a 1,200-square-foot space on Dover Street. “We are thrilled to be opening a new men’s standalone store in Mayfair, the spiritual home of the Jimmy Choo man,” said Pierre Denis, CEO of the luxury label. “Dover Street is fast becoming a shopping destination for luxury fashion and cutting-edge designers. The store is an exciting next step in the growth of Jimmy Choo Men.” The new store will span two floors and house men’s shoes and accessories - including bags, belts, scarves and small leather goods - replacing the existing menswear store in Burlington Arcade. The flagship is set to open in Spring 2013.

he new fashion brand & Other Stories, within the H&M group, will launch its first collections during spring 2013 in seven cities and through an online store on in ten European countries & Other Stories is launching its first stores in Barcelona, Berlin, Copenhagen, London, Milan, Paris and Stockholm. Moreover an online store launches on stories. com in Belgium, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Italy, The Netherlands, Spain, Sweden and United Kingdom. ”All of us at & Other Stories are thrilled to open our first stores in some of the major European cities and we are looking forward to offering our collections to an even broader audience through”, says Samuel Fernström, Head of & Other Stories. The new fashion brand & Other Stories will be offering women a wide range of shoes, bags, accessories, beauty and ready-to-wear to create their personal style, or story. The lines are diverse, ranging from masculine tailoring to feminine chic and are designed to provide endless styling choices. The aim is to design lasting wardrobes within a wide price range. These diversified fashion collections are designed in the creative ateliers in Paris and Stockholm, with great attention to detail and quality at an affordable price.

Business of Fashion|RTW Fashion Initiatives

Parsons announces new centre in Paris The design school will establish a new academic centre in Paris, opening in Fall 2013...


n 1921, Parsons became the first American art and design school to establish a campus in Paris. Among its achievements, Parsons Paris was the birthplace of the Parsons table, an icon of Modern design, in a studio led by the designer Jean-Michel Frank in the 1930s. “Parsons Paris has begun a new chapter,” said Joel Towers, Executive Dean of Parsons The New School for Design. “Our new academic centre will offer students from around the world an innovative education that addresses the global nature of contemporary art and design practice, and reflects distinctly European culture and philosophy.” Parsons Paris is situated in an intimate, atelier-like setting at 45 rue Saint-Roch in the 1st arrondissement near many of the city’s important cultural destinations, including the Louvre, l’Opéra, and Musée des Arts Décoratifs. The school will offer undergraduate, graduate and studyabroad programs that reflect the areas of study at Parsons in New York, while contextualized to take full advantage of the city’s cultural resources. This includes undergraduate programs in Fashion Design, Strategic Design and Management, and Art, Media and Technology; and graduate programs in Design and Technology, Design Studies, Fashion Studies, and the History of Decorative Arts and Design. In addition to Parsons Paris, the university is also developing projects in Mumbai, Shanghai, and other major urban centres.



RTW|Business of Fashion

Market Focus: Europe

Market Focus: India

Igedo to launch Little Gallery for Kids Fashion


he trade fair extends its portfolio for Düsseldorf. A new platform for children’s fashion “The Little Gallery” will be launched by the Igedo Company from 7 to 9 July 2013. On display will be coordinated ranges with a focus on kids and teens, maternity wear as well as lifestyle products in the medium and high-priced segment. Informative trend areas and a Catering Lounge round off the ranges. “We are creating a new communication platform for the children’s wear sector to fill a gap on the trade fair market – a platform presenting international brands and one that is characteristic of the market in Northern Europe. By creating this new platform, we are setting up a meeting point for industry, retail and the relevant trade press that is tailored to the needs of this sector,” reports Project Director Ulrike Kähler. The Igedo Managing Partner Philipp Kronen said: “The aim is to make children’s fashion an established fixture in Düsseldorf thereby strengthening the fashion location with an additional format.”

Bangalore Fashion Week, Jan 2013


angalore Fashion Week is scheduled to take place from 25th to 28th January, 2013 at the The Lalit Ashok, showcasing many of Indian premiere designers. The 8th edition of BFW will bring together various Indian and international designers like Rina Dhaka, Abhishek Dutta, Niki Mahajan, as well as a finale by Ritu Kumar. Upon the completion the event, the organizers, Dream Merchants plan to launch its BFW World Tour with its first edition taking place from March 15 to 17, 2013 at Central Live in Bangkok, Thailand.

Business of Fashion|RTW Market Focus: India

Puma’s Creative Factory event Built for One Puma recently brought together, the design, style, art and music fraternity for its Creative Factory Built for One event in New Delhi...


he idea behind this event was to leave the creativity in the hands of the mixed groups for them to experiment with the classic design of the one-of-a-kind range Puma T7 Track Jackets. Moreover, the freedom to play around with iconic T7 components and mix them with recyclable material, classic Indian fabrics and other accessories presented the participants with a unique opportunity to customize their own jackets exactly as they wanted. The creative community included names like Narendra Kumar, Kallol Datta, Shivan and Narresh, Midival Punditz and a host of other creative and digital influencers.



RTW|Business of Fashion

Market Focus: India

LVMH launches Thomas Pink in India LVMH partnered with Reliance Brands in March 2012, to sell its Thomas Pink line of clothing in India...


homas Pink has recently opened its first store in India, at the Ambience shopping centre, New Delhi. The British brand, specialized in men’s shirts, has also developed its women’s wear and has over 100 stores across the globe. Though India boasts an array of wealthy clients, Thomas Pink is the first LVMH brand to open a store in the country. Further Indian store openings for Thomas Pink are on the cards, notably in India’s most populated city of Mumbai. Thomas Pink will offer luxurious silk ties, tailoring, knitwear and accessories in India. With this tie-up, Thomas Pink products will be made available in major cities across India through exclusive mono-brand stores. “Planting the Pink flag in India and bringing our unique tradition of fine shirt crafting and tailoring to the increasingly cosmopolitan Indian consumer has been a long standing personal dream,” said Jonathan Heilbron, President & CEO, Thomas Pink Limited.

Business of Fashion|RTW Market Focus: India

Versace 19.69 launches in India with Magenta Fashions I

talian luxury clothing and accessories brand, Versace 19.69 Abbigliamento Sportivo has entered India through an exclusive partnership with Magenta Fashions, an apparel and leather exporter. The Italian brand, under the MoU has granted a license of the trade name and trademarks to Magenta Fashions, to manufacture and market on its behalf of and in the name of Versace 19.69 Abbigliamento Sportivo, Milano Italy. The brand is set to offer products under categories that include apparel, footwear, accessories, jewellery, eyewear, cosmetics and home furnishings. The company shall also be entitled to source from/through Versace 19.69 or its licensees worldwide, import to India and market in India through the stores set up by Magenta Fashions directly or through franchisees, any other products, not included in the agreement, manufactured and marketed directly or indirectly by the Italian firm/its licensees using the trade name and trademarks, said Ravi Shankar Rao, Managing Director & Partner, Magenta Fashions-India. Theofanis Papadas, CEO, Versace 19.69 Italia S.R.L., said, “India is a very important luxury market for us. We are here to bridge the luxury and affordability gap for Indian fashion aficionados.” The first phase of the India launch will see the introduction of eyewear and jewellery, followed by the entire product range by this year-end. Magenta Fashions will roll out around 70 stores across India over two years.

Fashion Snippets

British luxury brand, Globe-trotter launches in India


he brand’s first India store, opened at the ITC Maurya Hotel in New Delhi in December 2012. The store also features a range from their latest collaboration with the new James Bond movie Skyfall -- offering a fullfledged line of jet black designer bags inspired by James Bond.



RTW|Business of Fashion

Market: India India Market Focus:

Desigual now available on Premium Spanish brand, Desigual will be available on India’s fashion and lifestyle e-store


resent in over 71 countries worldwide, Desigual offers collection for men, women and kids in apparels, footwear and accessories segment. is now the authorized online sales partner for Desigual in India. Arun Chandra Mohan, co-founder, commented, “We are extremely delighted to tie up with Desigual. We are the exclusive online partner for Desigual in India and our constant endeavor is getting the new range of product lines to our customers. The fashion apparel market in India is growing tremendously, therefore we see a huge market potential for international brands in this segment.” Jordi Balsells, Vice President AP, Desigual said, “It gives us immense pleasure to introduce Desigual in India, Retail in India has grown by 43% and reached till 60% penetration among online users, but is still below world average. This shows the huge potential that the retail category holds in India with online retail filling the distribution and convenience gap. We look forward to the association with”

Market Focus: Latin America

Gap announces plans to open first Gap stores in Brazil Sao Paulo and Rio de Janeiro among first locations...


ap Inc announced plans for the first stand-alone Gap stores in Brazil as part of the company’s continuing global expansion strategy. The brand signed an agreement with Tudo Bom Comércio Ltda. for the planned opening of the first stores in the Fall of 2013. The plan to expand its store base in the country over the next five years, is a part of its strong platform of growth in the Brazilian retail market. “Brazil is a critical next step in our global expansion strategy and we are excited to introduce our store experience to customers,” said Stefan Laban, Managing Director of Strategic Alliances, Gap Inc. “Given that Brazil is the fifth largest country in the world and the largest Latin American economy, we feel that this market provides us with an incredible growth opportunity.” The first Gap stores will open in Sao Paulo, the country’s largest city followed by Rio de Janerio. The stores will house Gap, GapKids and BabyGap collections. Gap Inc. has significantly expanded the international reach of its brands since launching its first franchise operated store in 2006. Over the last six years, Gap Inc. has substantially grown its

store base and recently opened its 300th franchise store. Gap Inc. franchise stores can be found in 40 markets throughout Asia, Europe, Latin America, the Middle East and Australia.The expansion into Latin America began in 2011 with Gap Inc.’s first stores launching in Santiago, Chile. Most recently, Gap Inc. opened its first store in Uruguay and now has a presence in five Latin American countries, including Panama, Colombia and Mexico. Gap Inc is also conducting market research in India as part of a plan to open retail operations in the future. The brand’s interest in the Indian market comes with the recent Foreign Direct Investment opening where the single-brand retailers can operate wholly-owned units. Gap currently operates in India through a liaison office, The Gap International Sourcing India Pvt. Ltd., which sources woven fabrics both locally and from other countries in the Asia-Pacific region.

Business of Fashion|RTW Industry Meetings

The confirmation of the United States, the return of Japan, the promise of Brazil Milano Fashion Global Summit held on December 04, 2012 at Florence, Palazzo Vecchio, brought together the luxury industry leaders of the most influential countries at a gathering that focused on the importance of fashion in the emerging markets...


ey personalities and business professionals discussed production, distribution, and challenges facing the fashion industry. The key discussion was on the uniquely distinct markets of the United States, Japan and Brazil and how each market is expected to play a major role in the growth strategies of companies in the luxury sector. In fact, the United States remains a key market for Western companies. “Luxury stores in the U.S. show much better results than in Europe. The United States accounts for almost a third of global luxury sales and is

expected to grow another 13% by 2020,” said Lisa Clyde from Bank of America Merrill Lynch. “The United States is the largest market in luxury for all in absolute terms and especially for us. We have major projects there. We are going to double the square footage of our Chicago store and open stores in San Francisco and Toronto, Canada,” said, Michele Norsa, CEO of Salvatore Ferragamo. The United States is also an important market for Renzo Rosso’s OTB group (Diesel). It is the company’s second largest market in the world with a turnover of 280 million euros (Diesel + other brands), whereas Japan has historically been Diesel’s top market with a total turnover of 300 million euros. Franco Pene, the head of the Italian manufacturer Gibo, commented on Japan that “The country is in a phase of decline. There are structural elements, such as the high rate of aging among the population and energy dependence, which are both reasons to be pessimistic. As for Brazil, it is still a small market and highly protectionist, hardly an incentive for our exports. On the other hand, the number of Brazilian tourists is rapidly growing and their penchant for buying luxury is considerable.” “Brazil is wonderful, but it is not an easy market, and moreover one with very high trade tariffs,” added Renzo Rosso. “However, the average sale in our stores there, is double compared to the rest of the world.” Monica Mendes, president of a Brazilian communications agency that specializing in the luxury segment commented that, “The Brazilians are passionate about fashion. But they have their own ‘style life.’ Foreign brands that open up here with us (in Brazil) have to ‘tropicalize.’ Many make the mistake of relying on foreign buyers in Brazil or sellers who do not know their products. To succeed in this country, brands instead must be able to communicate their history and their expertise. If Brazilian customers are not approached with this attitude and with passion, they will not set foot in your stores.” “If BRIC countries (Brazil, Russia, India and China) are essential for the development of brands, it is in the traditional markets of the North where Italy continues to achieve 90% of its exports.” Mr. Mario Boselli, president of the National Chamber for Italian Fashion



RTW|Business of Fashion

Denim: New Launches

Koral: the new brand from the 7 For All Mankind founders


oral is the brainchild of David Koral along with his father Peter and partner Rick Crane, who launched their premium denim line in 2000 and sold it to VF Corp in 2007 for 775 million dollars. The brand made its debut with its women’s denim Fall 2012 collection, featuring its signature “Lived In Length” line and an assortment of fashion pieces including coated and tinted denim as well as a graphic “colorblock” collection. The Lived in Length range caters to the high end retail industry with price ranging from USD 200 onwards and two main styles, cigarette and skinny, featuring a minimal amount of rivets and finishings. After launching menswear in its second season, the brand is not only targeting the French market but also the German, taking part in Tranoï Homme and Premium in Berlin. Like its American competitors, the brand already has new launches lined up and is preparing a transformation into a denim luxury brand.

Denim: Key Events

Tommy Hilfiger at Bread & Butter, January 2013 Edition


rom January 15 to 17, 2013, Tommy Hilfiger showcased Hilfiger Denim Highlights of the Fall/ Winter 2013 collection at Bread & Butter, one of the biggest fashion trade shows on denim, sportswear and streetwear. The handbag and footwear collections were also featured alongside the apparel collection.

Denim: Trends

Premiere Vision A/W 2013-14: International buyers’ colour and fabric choices for the next season

Business of Fashion|RTW Denim: Key Look

Diesel Black Gold Pre Fall 2013-14


ndreas Melbostad, the new creative head of Diesel Black Gold launched his debut collection that showcases his strong signature aesthetic sense. Taking cues from American Biker & Rock theme, the collection is much more evolved, edgy and modern, featuring sharply engineered jackets, shirts and skinny jeans in denim and leather. The colours for Denim F/W 2013 are black, anthracite grey, denim blue and midnight blue.



RTW|Business of Fashion

Denim: Product Innovations

Fabrics & Textiles

Texworld focuses on E Invista & Arvind team up to lead the Stretch Denims category in India

Invista, one of the world’s largest integrated producers of polymers and fibers, teams up with Arvind to build new roads into the high potential global denim market...


his association seeks to bring to India the best of technologies from Invista, together with the denim fabric making expertise of Arvind, that would take the Indian denim market forward. Rishi Suri, Business Head - South Asia, Invista said, “Denim fabric was introduced to India in 1986 and the mid ’90s - 2000 was a period of rapid growth for the denim market in India. From a single mill in 1987, the number has grown to more than 27 in 2012. Considering that over 70% of the global denim fabric production lies in Asian countries, this is an extremely important segment for Invista and we are glad to join hands with Arvind Limited, to jointly offer innovative and high quality products in this growing category.” Over the past few years, the Indian market has moved beyond the five-pocket blue denim. Jeans has evolved in terms of convenience, comfort and fashion keeping in minds the evolving lifestyles and preferences of the Indian youth. The two world leaders in their respective categories pioneered the introduction of high-quality denim technology in India a decade ago. Currently, they are looking forward to introducing Invista’s latest world class fabric innovations in the market catering to these specialized consumer needs. Aamir Akhtar, CEO, Arvind Denim said, “Invista is known for its product innovation. We have had a wonderful experience collaborating with Invista and gaining the first mover’s advantage in the region by launching stretch denims with its Lycra fibers and many other innovations. The use of INVISTA’s sophisticated fiber and fabric technologies under the guidance of world-renowned designers has enabled Arvind to deliver many firsts in the international denim markets. We have also mastered extremely difficult stretches with Lycra like Stretch Selvedge Denim, Stretch Jacquard Denim, Super soft high recovery excel stretch denim and many more.” Arvind Denim Division was established in 1987 and has since grown into one of the world’s largest denim producer. With a turnover of US$ 180 million, Arvind Denim has a capacity for producing 110 million metres per year. The denim is exported to more than 70 countries all over the world, besides catering to the Indian market.

Business of Fashion|RTW

Eco friendly fabrics

As per the Textile Intelligence’s latest report on organic cotton, more than 81% of fashion companies expect to include more organic cotton in their collections...


esse Frankfurt’s Texworld, held during 14-16 January 2013, which was focused on organic cotton and cellulosic fabrics for the season of Summer 2014. According to the surveys conducted at last September’s exhibition, the Texworld found that its visitors value the ecofriendly ranges at the show while its exhibitors expressed their satisfaction with the organization of the Eco Itinerary which groups around one hundred weavers of eco-friendly fabrics, like organic cotton, cellulosic fabrics like Tencel or Modal, recycled fabrics such as cotton, polyester, wool and linen. An increasing number of buyers are asking for these ranges of green products even if organic and eco-friendly products are 15-25% more expensive than conventional fabrics. The major retail chains, to mention just C&A, H&M and Inditex, are the prime customers. At the edition, eco-friendly fabrics were once again showcased in the visitors’ guide and the Eco Itinerary. The high-quality ranges are Organic Cotton, Organic linen, Recycled polyester, Cellulosic fabrics and Cupro. Amongst many specialists across the globe, the specialist exhibitors from India are Vardhman Fabrics for its organic cotton and Birla Cellulose for its cellulosic fabrics. Organic cotton, a natural cellulose fabric, was long the material most in demand by buyers. Forecasts for European market suggest a difficult period lies ahead for the sector. Faced with difficulties in the supply and the price of organic cotton, there are many firms who have opted for man-made cellulosic fabrics, which

constitute an interesting alternative in terms of prices and quality. Little known prior to the crisis in the cotton sector, cellulosic fabrics have enjoyed great success in the fashion industry: luxury goods, designers for reputed retail chains, all have become loyal fans. “As with cotton, cellulosic fabrics are to be found in all the collections. Fashion labels like Maje, Sandro, Comptoir des Cotonniers or the major design houses like Givenchy, Dior, Saint Laurent Paris or lifestyle brands like Décathlon have adopted them» confirms Nicolas Rouillon, the market manager for France, the Benelux and North Africa for Lenzing, the Austrian manufacturer of cellulosic fibres, which has been attending Texworld for several years. The new eco-friendly fabrics for summer 2014 that were seen at Texworld will certainly appeal to buyers in search of innovation.



RTW|Art & Design

Design Museum, London

Design Museum Collection: Extraordinary stories about ordinary things

From 30 January 2013 onwards...

Design Museum


ondon’s museum of international contemporary design, Design Museum is showcasing a collection devoted exclusively to contemporary design and architecture. This new permanent collection display reveals intriguing insights in the most exceptional of everyday objects. With its new address in Kensington, the top floor will display the museum’s collection of twentieth-century design. The exhibition presents six key stories through hundreds of items, offering a diverse investigation into the impact of design on our everyday lives. The exhibition will show the surprising origins of famous and lesser known designs, alongside contextual images and documents. A section on Modernism

will provide a snapshot of a remarkable and dynamic period of design in Britain, shown through iconic pieces of furniture, products, textiles and architecture. The section will feature works by Marcel Breuer, Laszlo Moholy-Nagy and Erno Goldfinger, whose name Ian Fleming spitefully immortalized as a Bond villain because of personal antagonism. Besides other displays, a display of fashion from the 1970s to the 1990s will throw a spotlight on six occasion outfits from a personal wardrobe of over 400 items belonging to fashion collector Jill Ritblat. The outfits chart the shift of style through a life in society, and champion the exquisite balance of form and function in the pieces themselves.

Art & Design|RTW 33

Handlebar Table, image couresy of Phillips de Pury

Stacking Chair , Anna Castelli-Ferrieri for Kartell

Boby Trolley designed by Joe Colombo, 1964

Ten things you didn’t know about the Design Museum Collection: 1. It wasn’t supposed to exist. Between 1982 and 1986 the founders of the Design Museum, Stephen Bayley and Terence Conran, staged the Boilerhouse Project in the basement of the V&A which predated the move to Shad Thames in 1989 and was conceived as a pioneering pop up museum documenting modern design. 2. The Design Museum Collection now includes over 290 chairs, 24 televisions and one nappy. 3. The Design Museum Collection will be a permanent and free to enter exhibition when it opens in the new Design Museum in High Street Kensington in 2015. 4. There are over 3,000 objects in the collection which include furniture, lighting, domestic appliances and communications technology. 5. The Design Museum Collection is currently held in two locations,

one close to the museum for smaller objects and a larger warehouse for objects including the red telephone box. 6. The biggest item in the collection is a bus shelter, designed for Adshell by acclaimed industrial designer Kenneth Grange. 7. The Design Museum Collection recently acquired an AK-47 firearm, first developed in the USSR by Mikhail Kalashnikov in 1947. 8. The collection includes Robin Day’s 1963 Polyprop chair. It is estimated that some 14 million chairs have been sold and continue to be sold at a rate of 500,000 units a year. 9. Upcoming acquisitions include a Russian cosmonaut spacesuit. 10. The oldest piece in the collection is the Thonet No.14 chair designed in 1859 by Gebrüder Thonet. Design Museum Rendering

Vase designed by Ronan & Erwan Bouroullec, 2001

Stacking Chair - Anna Castelli-Ferrieri for Kartell


RTW|Corporate Initiatives

Australian Wool Innovation

International Woolmark Prize: the design competition that kick started the careers of icons like Karl Lagerfeld and YSL, back in 1954… The esteemed and much-awaited International Woolmark Prize will be awarded to the most promising designer to celebrate their passion for wool at London Fashion Week to be held in February 2013. Emerged from a total of seventy applicants nominated by fashion industry professionals in their respective regions, this prestigious event will feature the 6 finalists: Sophie Theallet from the US, Christian Wijnants from Europe (Belgium), Ban Xiao Xiu from China, Dion Lee from Australia, DRESSEDUNDRESSED from Japan and Pankaj and Nidhi from India. What is the Prize all aboutThe International Woolmark Prize

is a global competition which recognizes up-and-coming designers for their diverse interpretation of merino wool in their collections. The competition is backed by the Australian Wool Industry, and each geographical region has its own judging panel. The competition was held in the following five key regions, Australia, China, Europe, India, and USA. An important element of this prize is the commercialization of Australian Merino wool products in each of the key regions. The winner wwill receive 100,000 Australian dollars, or $105,000, and their winning collection will be carried this fall in top retailers around the world, including Bergdorf Goodman in the U.S., Harvey Nichols in the U.K., 10 Corso Como in Italy, Joyce in China, Eickoff in Germany and David Jones in Australia. The award is supported internationally by the key fashion councils, including the Council of Fashion Designers of America, British Fashion Council, Chambre Syndicale de la Couture, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid, Premsela Foundation and Fashion Design Council of India.

The Judging Panel

The final judging panel is made up of ten of the most important and influential people in fashion, each one a pillar of the global fashion industry. International judging panel comprising Diane von Furstenberg, Co-Chairman and Founder, Diane von Furstenberg Studio LP, Donatella Versace, Creative Director and Vice President of Gianni Versace S.p.A., Franca Sozzani, Editor-in-Chief of Vogue Italia, Tim Blanks, Editor-at-Large of, Andrew Keith, President of Joyce and Lane Crawdord; Carla Sozzani, owner of 10 Corso Como, Linda Fargo, senior vice president, fashion office and store presentation at Bergdorf Goodman, Paula Reed, creative director of

Christian Wijnants, Winne

Harvey Nichols and Victoria Beckham have been selected as the final judging panel.

The Finalists

Sophie Theallet from the US, Christian Winjants from Belgium, Ban Xiao Xue from China, Dion Lee from Australia, Dresses Undressed from Japan and Pankaj and Nidhi from India represent the line-up for the final round of the International Woolmark Prize to be held in London. Each finalist will present their winning design (from the regional contest), as well as five additional pieces on the catwalk. Eighty percent of each garment must be made of merino wool. The runway show will feature 36 models and will take place at the ME London Hotel.

International Judging Panel:

Retail Partners judging panel:

•Victoria Beckham •Tim Blanks, Editor-at-Large •Franca Sozzani, Editor, Vogue Italia •Donatella Versace, Creative Director & Vice President, Gianni Versace S.p.A. •zDiane von Furstenberg, Co-Chairman & Founder, Diane von Furstenberg Studio LP

•Stefan Asbrand-Eickhoff, Eickhoff  Königsallee •Linda Fargo, Senior V.P, Bergdorf Goodman •Andrew Keith, President, Joyce & Lane  Crawford •Paula Reed, Creative Director, Harvey  Nichols •Carla Sozzani, Owner, 10 Corso Como

Corporate Initiatives|RTW

er Europe

Takeshi Kitazawa & Emiko Sato, Winner Japan

Pankaj & Nidhi, Winner India

Ban Xiao Xue, Winner China

Dion Lee, Winner Australia


Tokyo-based unisex label, Dressed Undressed was created by design duo, Takeshi Kitazawa and Emiko Sato. The label is a conceptual fashion label which originally was a Tokyo-based underground streetwear brand.

future star of the global fashion industry after showing at a static exhibition held by Pont Alexandre III Fashion Club in Paris in 2007. While designing for Chinese fashion brand Exception, Ban Xiao Xue was invited to show at London Fashion week in 2012 in the “Shan Shui” Fashion Design show.



Dion Lee has become known for channeling his high-minded creativity into garments with his extraordinary talent for patternmaking combined with his hands-on approach to collection development. Lee has also demonstrated his high business acumen, launching a more accessible line of clothes than just his main collection.


Sophie Theallet’s signature is her use of femininity, sensuality and craftsmanship in an undeniably French accent. Her collections also exude a freedom of spirit that transcends all borders.


Ban Xiao Xue was evaluated as the Chinese

in 2008 and the Elle Style Award for best women’s prêt-a-porter in 2009. In 2010, the couple also won first prize at the International Fashion Award at the World Apparel Convention in Hong Kong.

Christian Wijnants is a 34-year-old designer based in Antwerp, Belgium. After graduating in 2000 from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, he went on to win the Grand Prix at Festival de Hyères in France. Following this, he started selling his collections in-store at Colette in Paris, Pineal Eye in London, Via Bus Stop in Tokyo and Henri Bendel in New York. After working as creative assistant for Dries Van Noten in Antwerp and Angelo Tarlazzi in Paris, he launched his own brand in 2003.


Pankaj and Nidhi launched their fashion label in 2006 and since then the duo has won both critical acclaim as well as commercial success, with innovative yet wearable clothes. They have been honoured with the Elle Style Award for best debutant designer

Sophie Theallet, Winner U.S.A.



RTW|Corporate Initiatives

RTW: Q&A RTW also spoke to Rob Langtry, Chief, Marketing Officer, The Woolmark Company, on India’s entry at LFW through Pankaj and Nidhi collection, his viewpoint about the collection and what Woolmark anticipates from the Indian woolen market. 1. What are your expectations from Pankaj and Nidhi Collection? What is their possibility of winning the title at LFW? Pankaj & Nidhi’s collection which won them the regional award in June 2012 showed a thorough knowledge and understanding of the fibre. It was vibrant and exciting, we are very keen to see what they have produced for the final in London. We expect the competition to be very close as each of the global finalists bring their own unique talents and point of view to the competition. It will ultimately be up to the judges to decide who stand out on the day.

2. How does Woolmark view the current opportunities in the industry for woollens in India? We see India as a very strong manufacturing partner, and of increasing importance as a design and consumption market. Design in India is evolving from being strongly influenced by local ethnic traditions to being truly global and this we think will see the relevance of Indian designers continue to increase. We are especially interested to see how Indian design evolves in areas that are trans-seasonal – for example when we look at the lighter weights available in products like Cool Wool.

3. How much Indian designers are admired in the global international fashion fraternity? What lies ahead for the Indian designers? There are a number of very successful Indian designers who have achieved great success globally such as Rajesh Pratap Singh, Manish Arora, etc. We believe that Pankaj and Nidhi have the potential to be the next Indian designers to achieve global success, this is what we aim to achieve from the International Woolmark Prize, to assist designers with that extra support to gain international credibility. We are already in the process of nominating the next round of Designers from India for the next competition.

4. How do you perceive India’s management for wool reserves that can impact global woollen market? Wool is purchased from Australian an open cry auction system. We see a strong presence from China and Europe and an increasing presence of India. Larger companies such as Raymond partner with AWI/Woolmark are already in the development of new market opportunities and we see this expanding over time. India is competitive both in price of its manufactured product and of course quality.

5. What is your model for Woolmark in the Indian market, owing to the challenges associated with it? Like every market in which we participate, our model for India is bespoke. We have a strong technical presence to support and assist Indian designers and manufacturers to continuously improve their end product; and we are expanding our domestic marketing efforts as India embraces a more global fashion palette. Our presence in India will continue to expand proportionate to the opportunities we see at both manufacturing and consumption level.

6. What is your overview for the export and import scenario of wool, worldwide? The supply of wool, especially wool suitable for clothing, is constrained and we expect minimal expansion over the next few years.

There is aggressive competition for use of the land and resources that woolgrowers use from other industry sectors such as grains and meat production, and the returns on growing wool are only a little better than marginal at the current prices. Wool is still under-priced given its quality when you compare it, for example to Cashmere. We see demand expanding at the top end of the market due to strong consumer consciousness of the environmental credentials of the products; and due to the increasing number of young designers joining established iconic designers in their preference for working with wool at the top end of the quality apparel market.

7. What is your observation for market trend and demand of woollen apparels in India? The Indian market offer immense potential for the luxurious fibre, Merino wool. With increasing affordability and disposable income, Indian consumers are matching international standard be it fashion, electronics or automobile. We see the demand of fine wool in India will grow in coming times as more international brands forays in Indian market to offer wide range of fashionable products in premium and luxury segment, growing at fast rate. Also with increasing awareness of Indian consumers it is easier to convince them for quality products made of natural fibre like wool. With trans-seasonal properties of wool, we see demand of wool to grow beyond short winters.

8. How do you see the demand of wool, globally and in which regions its demand is mushrooming? Demand for wool in end products is expanding rapidly in direct proportion to the consumption of luxury goods, so we see growth in new demand from China; resurgence in demand from the USA

Corporate Initiatives|RTW

and Japan; and we have reasonably flat expectations at consumer level for Europe. In terms of design influence we see the continued expansion of the appetite for quality wool from designers in most influential Western markets and a growing appetite to experiment with wool in design in Asia and the Middle East.

9. What are your plans for the retail segment in India? Indian retail industry is transforming into an organized one where consumers have more varieties from domestic and international brands. We are associating with leading retailers in India through various campaigns to educate their consumers about fine wool and help them to make informed buying. We have strong association with leading brands and retailers, and offer them new tools and innovative ideas so that more wool products go on retail shelf. Educating retail store staff and doing in-store promotion are ideal way of educating targeted consumers.

10. What are your objectives and future scenario for Woolmark in India? Please elaborate. We aim to increase the demand of fine quality Merino wool by making it a preferred choice of Indian consumers and increase Woolmark presence across India by introducing various programs including Cool Wool, a trans-seasonal product for premium and luxury segment. Over next three years we will roll out various product oriented programs in association will leading players in India and continue with existing ones like The Wool Lab. We will also emphasise on strengthening the supply chain of quality product by providing technical know-how to our associated partners and Woolmark licensees. The prestigious International Woolmark Prize will continue to encourage young designers to work with wool for international fame and success.

Images courtesy: Woolmark Inernational



RTW|Corporate Initiatives RTW: RTW:Q&A Q&A

RTW speaks to Pankaj and Nidhi from India, who will showcase the collection at London Fashion Week, February 2013.

How would you define the style of your collection for Woolmark? We’ve always been inspired by intricate craftsmanship, cultural symbols and objects. We’ve followed the same pattern and have incorporated a mix of handcrafted techniques which are global, modern and edgy. Using Merino wool, we’ve used ornamental patterns and crewl work techniques in a colourful palette. It has evolved to be a very interesting and an eclectic collection and has received fantastic response from the fraternity.

You are going to showcase the collection at London Fashion Week, February 2013 edition. What are you hoping from the event? How much does the response matter? Showcasing the collection at London Fashion Week is quite a challenge. The collection is strong enough and we are positive, anticipating great experience and hoping for the best. It’s an opportunity coming to us through the platform created by Woolmark. We are proud to hoist the Indian flag at one of the most coveted events in the fashion world. We are excited to display our collection in front of buyers, retailers, press, and jury. Above all, getting the affirmation from the judges is highly crucial to us. Even if we are winners or not, our mere presence at the event can bring tremendous business opportunities our way. It will help us achieve incredible mileage in terms of business potential as well.

What was the personal breakthrough for you when you developed the Woolmark collection? I would say that the experience was rather overwhelming than an emotional one for both of us. I recall waking up with an idea exploding in mind in the middle of the night, then drafting the sketches and putting it together on papers. I will describe the whole process as a very gratifying experience. This is a wonderful opportunity to turn our years of undiluted labour, hard work, and learning

into a fruitful reward. In my view, each piece in the collection is a prize-winning entry. We are happy with what we have created because we really have pushed ourselves beyond our limits for the Woolmark collection.

How does it feel to be competing at LFW with other fashion designers from different parts of the world? How confident are you for the collection? The collection is strong enough but competing at LFW with other fashion designers from different parts of the world will not be like a gamble. I must say, the chosen ones are very accomplished. We are putting all our calibre and we will not regret, if we will not win. To be there at the LFW, in itself is a milestone. For me, every winner is a winner already.

What’s your favourite part about conceptualizing the designs for the Woolmark? Having to work with wool is the favourite part in the conceptualization of the designs for Woolmark. It has been a pleasurable and luxurious challenge as we believe that wool is an interesting medium which drapes beautifully.

How will you take brand Pankaj and Nidhi forward post LFW? It is evident that the designer, who will win, his or her visibility and positioning, will be strong internationally. The event will not only bring the cash prize but also the winners will get to stock the collection at the best stores in the world that will hugely leverage the brand.

As far as we are concerned, we would continue use wool in our collections. We will remain be the ambassador of wool as long as we can. We will also do a larger version of the same collection.

What is the most exciting thing happening in Indian Fashion right now? I would not say exciting but significant thing which is happening in India would be India Fashion Week. It is a desirable stage created for both established and upcoming designers to showcase their talent and latent potential to express their creativity through their collections.

What do you think will be the biggest changes in the development of woollen apparel in India over the next 10 years? Wool has set to become much more fashionable over the years and continue to grow. It is beautiful; it makes for warmth, comfort and functionality. The designers are increasingly becoming more aware about the wool. Though usage of wool is limited in India however the Woolmark celebration is going to be the revelation as to what one can experiment with it. Wool is being used across the world in fashionable apparels and accessories. There is a huge market worldwide for wool in the years to come.

Describe type of yarns incorporated in the collection and its feasibility in the global retail market. We have used Merino wool yarn in a pure

Corporate Initiatives|RTW

and woven form in the collection. Merino is a highly feasible, producible, and enjoyable medium across the world. Merino can be produced in bulk and is in a great demand. In Europe and other parts of the world, merino is used across seasons due to its elegance, finesse and seductive softness quotient.

Are there any new materials / yarn that you’re already experimenting with for Woolmark? We have created Merino fur- the fur is fully embroidered with the merino yarn. It is a high-twist yarn which is refreshing and new. This fur does not look like animal fur. We are planning to do a bit more of it.


The Winning Collection: The Designers were praised by the judges for their exciting use of colour and their fresh and crisp sensibility. Designed with Merino wool yarn embellishments in crewel work techniques, the collection showcases an interesting palette of monochromatic ornamental patterns that are inspired by baroque art in the Renaissance.

The Boost to the Knitwear & Woollen Industry


he award has generated significant interest of the global fashion industry, in wool and knitwear. With its relaunch, the fashion students in UK are being encouraged to concentrate on knitwear through an initiative supported by the Prince of Wales. The classic styles of Worsted Blends and Tweeds of UK heritage brands such as Burberry and Dunhill, have swung back into fashion. Global brands such as Chanel and Marc Jacobs are showcasing tweeds as a major trend. As a result, the British mills have seen a production increase of 12% in 2011 and the amount of wool produced in the UK increased from 32,000 tonnes in 2009 to 40,000 tonnes in 2011. The world’s manufacturing hub, China’s design and retail industry is also enhancing its knowledge of wool. Premier Vision, the most important fabric show for the fashion industry, also held a knitwear section for the first time in 2012. Leading yarns and knitwear exhibition, Spinexpo is launching a brand new Knitwear Pavilion at its March 2013 Shanghai edition. The new pavilion will showcase a digital presentation

and seminars on knitwear shape and fabric direction for S/S 2014 showing inspiration, catwalk trends and new emerging market trends. The manufacturers and producers are now showcasing great innovations with the use of wool in knitwear. In addition to expanding on earlier methods, the producers are blending wool with other fibers, such as denim, silk, linen and so on, to realize different effects. 2013 will see the expansion of the Asia region which will now cover China, Hong Kong, Japan and South Korea and the Indian region will now include UAE, Pakistan and Lebanon, as the prize continues to search the globe, uncovering the world’s best wool designers.



RTW|Corporate Initiatives

Genesis Colors

Satya Paul announces

Masaba Gupta as the new Fashion Director

Satya Paul, the Indian designer label is famous for its originality and creativity in designs, colour palette, weaves, prints, embroideries, and sensuous materials. Most recently, the brand announced the appointment of designer Masaba Gupta as Fashion Director for the brand... With a role of providing design direction for the Prêt a porter and Satya Paul Signature lines, as well the brand’s accessory ranges, Masaba joined the brand on 1st December 2012. The designer’s latest collection for Satya Paul will be for the season S/S 2013. Masaba was handpicked by the Genesis Colors board for her fearless fashion sensibilities, as well as for her deep understanding of the practicalities of women’s dressing.

“We are very pleased to have Masaba on board as it’s a perfect marriage of a legendary brand with a futureforward design sensibility that she brings to the table. We are eagerly looking forward to her first collection and are geared to support her in all possible ways,” said Sanjay Kapoor, MD, Genesis Colors.

RTW: Q&A In a short interview, the Sanjay Kapoor, the Managing Director at Genesis Colors, Satya Paul’s holding company, spoke to RTW about the recent appointment of Masaba Gupta. What is Satya Paul aiming at with this association and brands future plans. What has it achieved in your view? The brand, Satya Paul is celebrating Masaba Gupta’s new appointment as head designer. Started 27 years ago, Satya Paul has been an inspiration and a path bearer for many in the Indian fashion industry. The brand has always been known for its innovative approach to fashion, especially as the first fashion label in the country to revolutionize the sari. With the appointment of Masaba Gupta as Fashion director, we have chalked up another fashion first in India. As Fashion Director, Masaba will bring her unique and fresh design sensibilities to the label by envisioning new collections and driving the creative process.

What are the prospects of this alliance in the coming years? At present, we are looking forward to Masaba’s first collection for the brand. We are excited to see how she delves into the history of Satya Paul to take it forward into a youthful and exciting space. Her fearless approach

to colour and prints resonate with Satya Paul’s core design philosophy, and we’re eagerly anticipating the next collection.

According to the company, what difference can Masaba bring as the new fashion director for the brand? Her role is to create collections that underline the strengths of Satya Paul: prints, colour, the arts, the sari and fabulous embellishments. With her young and iconoclastic take on design, Masaba will add a youthful edge to our timeless classics.

What are the Satya Paul brand values? At Satya Paul, we have a commitment to quality, design and creating the best and the most unique prints and also keeping the connection between fashion and art alive.

What are the challenges you predict for Satya Paul to sustain itself & maintain its own identity in the global digital textile print revolution? The visual vocabulary that defines the Satya Paul prints is considered unique and iconic. That said, repetition and stagnation are bad for any brand. The way forward is to evolve with the industry. Masaba’s ideas and the rich archives on which Satya Paul’s history is based, will sustain our design identity.

What are the capabilities of Indian designers on the current international scene?

As creative artists, Indian designers are today at par with any international designer. As business people, they are behind their contemporaries in terms of infrastructure, production capacities, retail, and simply being a unified, organized industry. It will take some time to overcome these challenges, but I am positive that they will get there pretty soon.

Satya Paul and the emerging markets; please give us inputs on your latest store opening in Canada and other new openings in 2013? The Satya Paul store opened in Toronto, Canada, in November 2012. This is one of our two international flagships, the other being in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. We are also looking out for opportunities in other international markets and will share the rollout plans once they are formalized.

How would you forecast the business of Satya Paul in 2013-2014? With close to 40 stores nation-wide and over 1000 points of retail worldwide, we are expecting to touch a 40%+ growth in the coming year. With a Diploma in Apparel Manufacture and Design from Mumbai’s SNDT Women’s University, Masaba Gupta launched her label in July 2009. Her diffusion line catering to women from the age group of 25-50 years was well received in the fashion industry. She also became a winner of the most promising designer award by INIFD at Lakme Fashion week Spring/Summer 2010.

Corporate Initiatives|RTW

RTW: Q&A Masaba shares with RTW, her part of joys and responsibility as she takes over the role of a fashion director at Satya Paul.

Satya Paul vocabulary, and creating my own design language out of it.

Any particular collection last season, Indian or international, that has inspired you.

Can you please elaborate on your recent association with Satya Paul. What does this entail and how would you be taking Brand’s Heritage forward? I hope to take the brand to the youth. I hope to make it more relevant to the younger customer. Also I want to bring back the lyrical image that Satya Paul was famous for once it started off. I will incorporate the techniques and design sensibility that I have and merge it with the long standing strong design aesthetic and signature of Satya Paul.

What will be your take aways from Puneet Nanda and his contribution towards the brand ?

Through my life, I have been seeing and imbibing Satya Paul in various ways. On supermodels, actresses, and through iconic images and artistic prints. The Think Pink collection from 2004 dedicated to cancer awareness comes to mind. So does the collection dedicated to endangered species from 2006. There are so many instances! “I am honoured and humbled to be appointed as fashion director at Satya Paul, a brand that I have admired and have had an aesthetic connect with since I was a young girl. With this exciting yet challenging position, I hope to bring to the brand a lyrical and youthful image, keeping the aesthetic and soul of Satya Paul intact,” said Masaba Gupta.

He still remains a positive presence at Satya Paul, and I will rely him for guidance. There is a huge archive of beautiful designs and concepts, so imbibing that will be the first of my many pleasures.

will you converge its aesthetics with Satya Paul?

Masaba Label, that is famous for bold feminism, classic weaves, and contemporary outlook, how

Satya Paul has a long and iconic heritage of prints, and is known for its fearlessness with colours. As a designer, I will try to channel them in my way, thereby keeping to the

Among international designers whom you admire the most Alexander McQueen, Stella McCartney and Diane von Furstenberg

What is your inspiration for your forthcoming collection? It’s a surprise !

Post your taking charge of the creative chair at Satya Paul, what are your plans for the label, Masaba I have a very clear vision for my brand and for Satya Paul, also I have the guts, more than the experience and I have time on my side.



RTW|Fashion Shows & Trade Fairs

London Collection: Men

British Fashion Industry puts Menswear back into Limelight The recently held London Men’s Collection emphasize both the creative and commercial importance of Britain’s brands that contribute to the inspiration and success of the menswear sector...


he British menswear market is set to grow by 16% by 2016 as London hosted its F/W 2013 fashion week for men. Over centuries, British bespoke menswear companies have been known worldwide for their formalwear, overcoats and suits. Known exclusively for their niche materials and tweeds, these high end fashion houses are now a part of UK’s heritage brand legacy. The British fashion houses such as Burberry and Dunhill’s take on the classic British wardrobe has become a style statement across the globe.

London Collections for Men: F/W 2013-14

This season, over 60 menswear designers showed on schedule at London Collections, internationally acclaimed brands Alexander McQueen, Tom Ford and Hardy Amies showcased their mainline menswear collections for the first time. Heritage British brand, Hardy Amies moved its show from Milan and showcased its mainline menswear

collection in London at this mainstream event. Designers for F/W 2013 included iconic British brands, Margaret Howell and Oliver Spencer. Brands such as Belstaff, Burberry and Vivienne Westwood hosted presentations and Hackett returned to the event to show their second catwalk collection. 30 ready-to-wear and accessories designers exhibited their A/ W2013 collections in the Designer Galleries at the Hospital Club which was the central hub for the event. Fashion Forward, sponsored by eBay Fashion and the Mayor of London, included designers such as Christopher Shannon, E.Tautz, J.W. Anderson and Lou Dalton. LCM also launched its Men & British Menswear event hosted by David Cameron. The top brands such as Tommy Hilfiger and Esquire, Alfred Dunhill, Selfridges, Harrods, Harvey Nichols and Mr Porter, all hosted events over the three days. Over 45 countries were represented by international press attending LC:M and buyers from over 17 countries were in attendance.

UK Fashion Industry

The direct value of the UK fashion industry to the UK economy is £21 billion. (source: BFC Value of Fashion Report 2010). Fashion’s wider contribution to the economy in influencing spending in other industries is estimated to stand at over £37 billion. (source: BFC Value of Fashion Report 2010) The UK fashion industry is estimated to support 816,000 jobs and is the largest employer of all the creative industries. The sector also provides opportunities to minority groups to a greater extent than most other creative industries. (source: BFC Value of Fashion Report 2010) With more buyers, retailers and consumers recognizing the British tailoring heritage, the young and modern British talent also is looking forward to offering the quintessentially London fashion flair. As the new British menswear talent takes centre stage with this event, the British Fashion Council is offering a whole new meaning to Menswear and Womenswear.

Menswear Market across the Globe:


Topman Design

he Market Research company, Mintel estimates the men’s fashion market to have grown by 3.2% to £9.9 billion in 2011. Growth has been fuelled by a rise in the average selling prices of menswear. In addition, according to Mintel’s research, the menswear market is anticipated to witness growth of 16% between 2011 and 2016. (Source: Mintel) In 2011, global menswear sales increased an estimated 9% to 24 billion euros, or $33.42 billion at average exchange rates, versus 22 billion euros, or $29.20 billion, in 2010. (Source: Men’s items now represent 50% of the luxury apparel market, helped in part by male consumers in emerging markets, especially Asia, with China a major source of growth. (Source: BFC Future of Fashion Report 2012. (Bain & Company’s luxury goods worldwide market study, 10th Edition))


RTW|Fashion Shows & Trade Fairs

Pitti Immagine Uomo

Men in Italy: The new order of the Italian menswear brands at Pitti Uomo offer a combination of internationality, research & innovation...

Pitti Uomo—the bi-annual menswear trade show in Florence, Italy that was held from 8 to 10 January 2013, is one of the most important events for menswear, footwear and accessories...


enswear in Italy is known for its individual style, flamboyance in colours, and most importantly attention to detail and fit. The strength of Italian menswear is its sophisticated balance of craftsmanship, tradition, creativity and innovation. These elements of the ‘Made in Italy’ brand make Italian menswear very appealing for the global buyers. As per the Italian Trade Commission’s studies of the US Department of Commerce’s statistics for the period of January-May 2012, Italy ranked 12th among the menswear and accessories suppliers of the United States, with positive trends in all the individual markets of the industry. The individual markets analysis show that Italian knitwear is the most appreciated product by US importers.

It generated a total cash flow of $47.7 million and grew +3.39%. Suits are a close second, with a total cash flow of $41.8 million and a growth of +4.56%. The recently held Pitti Immagine Uomo 83 had 1062 brands showcasing at the Fortezza da Bazzo venue with 392 brands from abroad, plus another 70 women’s collections at Pitti W. This edition of Pitti Uomo welcomed more than 30,000 visitors, 21000 of whom were buyers from the world’s most important large and small retailers. The figures confirm the importance of the event as it continues to receive applications from strong men’s markets such as Great Britain, France, Germany, Japan and the United States. In fact, foreign vendors from about 30 different countries account for nearly 40% of the total exhibitors.

Fashion Shows & Trade Fairs|RTW

“Florence is an amazing canvas for Kenzo. Conceiving a dynamic presentation for our men’s collection amongst this vibrant yet antique urban setting was a thrilling opportunity that allowed us to explore yet another undiscovered aspect of Kenzo”. – Kenzo designers, Humberto Leon & Carol Lim

Special Projects at Pitti

Important names in fashion chose to show their new collections, special projects and to launch their global strategies at Pitti Uomo , Florence. Adidas SLVR, makers of the contemporary sportswear line designed by Dirk Schongberger, had selected Pitti Uomo as the sole international event for the presentation of its new collection. Allegri had picked Pitti Uomo to present its new look, a true return to its origins via a collection inspired by the firm’s historical archives, focusing on coats and especially the raincoat. Boglioli returned to Pitti Uomo with a collection inspired by the work of avant-garde artist Bruno Contenotte. Historic brand Begg of Scotland had a preview of their new project. Camper presented a special project dedicated to one of its iconic styles, ‘Pelota’. Conte of Florence- the historic Florentine brand associated with the world of sport launched its new vision for the brand.

I Play , the new Pitti Uomo project that was presented in the Cavaniglia Pavilion in lieu of the sport and sport section. Carol Lim and Humberto Leon presented their men’s collection by having Kenzo, one of the leading and legendary names in international fashion as special guest designer. Ermanno Scervino presented his men’s collection and the women’s pre-collection during an exclusive fashion show-event at the Salone dei Cinquecento in Palazzo Vecchio. White Mountaineering, the Japanese label designed by Yosuke Aizawa presented the preview showing at the event. Dormeuil, the historic textile firm founded in 1842, presented its research on the excellence of fashion’s essential material in a PopUp Store on the Upper Level of the Main Pavilion; the Italian brand Caruso, offered a rendezvous with all the fans with a “peaceful demonstration supporting Made in Italy men’s fashions” with the byword “In Menswear do as The Italians Do”, staged by the eclectic fashion editor Sergio Colantuoni, while the winner of the WHO IS ON NEXT? UOMO 2012 competition, Erïk Bjerkesjö staged a sitespecific performance at the Villa Favard presenting the world première showing of his men’s collection for the 2013-2014 fall/ winter season. These are only a few of the special events that took place during Pitti Uomo and Pitti W.



RTW|Fashion Shows & Trade Fairs

The Major Trends at Pitti Uomo British Countryside Style

The season brings a return to genuineness expressed through a new penchant for noble fabrics, and traditional English patterns and details, but associated with a totally Italian savoir faire. The basis is a new look at classic formal schemas, that gives them more character and more freedom. An incredibly rich British matrix makes quality the key factor in handsome, warm items that are made to last. And each one tells a story: sometimes it’s a country outing, weaves taken from historic archives, warm colours and a penchant for original fabrics such as the sartorial jackets that have all the comfortable allure of a knitted cardigan and a fit that can only come from fine tailoring. The season’s stars are tweeds, Scottish tartans and suede; Prince of Wales checks and herringbones in soft cashmere that brings out the colours; and different materials in one garment.

Focus on...

The key items in the season’s wardrobe – that includes a comeback for the vest – are the deconstructed check-print Shetland wool jacket, the necktie print flannel mélange jacket, the piece-dyed wool jacket or the soft and sophisticated double, knitted jacket. And on top of all, the short, cloth or boiled wool duffle coat that’s warm and sturdy, perfect for travel and outdoor wear.

The Shoe: Shiny And Chameleonic

The timeless allure of the classic English shoe teams up with twenty-first century sensitivity for comfort and technical materials. On the formal side, the softer, rounder shapes are emphasized by “glazing” and chiaroscuro effects generated by crafted antique finishes. Special aniline processes created extraordinary transparent effects that enhance the innovative use of deep, strong colours such as black, dark Bordeaux, navy blue and bottle green. The focus is on the mirror-finish calfskin derby boot, on the twotone Saffiano leather lace-up or the fine leather moccasin with a glossy finish. For the more casual looks, research brings shoes for all occasions and all weather with an eccentric touch. Hand-finished shoes in exclusive hides discover totally new Vibram soles, while mid-boots, tasselled college moccasins and monk strap shoes with removable fringes – often made of new materials such as split cowhide, délavé suede - and pony skin – are built on natural para soles that make them ideal for cold weather.


RTW|Fashion Shows & Trade Fairs

Functionality That Does Not Overlook Luxury

Images courtesy Pitti Immagine

“Business wear” is filled with solutions for the dynamic, technology-enthusiast who is always connected. Bags that break “classic briefcase” rules are chock full of multi-purpose, multi-function details. Padded pockets and compartments on trolleys, document cases, laptop cases, and iPad cases – and also on leather rucksacks. Soft folders and messenger bags are part of or combined with a document case that meets the new metropolitan gentleman’s needs. Handstitched leathers in bright, vitamin colors, super luxury skins on custom made bags, or simple shapes that are enlivened by unexpected prints on the linings. Function meets luxury and together they form a lasting alliance.

Xxxxx Xxxxx|RTW 49

Show Report



RTW PRE FALL F/W 2013-14

Burberrry Prorsum

The Pre-Fall collection 2013 carries a long-term elegance personified appeal. The designers were at their ingenious best. Pre-Fall season has been glorified in authentic creations and refined imaginations. The collections played with wide spectrum of styles, quirky taste, and supreme fusion of techniques. Designers such as Stella McCartney produced pieces, brimming with goodness factor. Lanvin showed impeccable leopard prints and post-party looks. At Burberry Prorsum styles appeared in classic cuts with graphic, animal or striped prints. At Versace, Frieda Giannini fashioned 1950’s inspired silhouettes aesthetically. Erdem juxtaposed colourful floral patterns and semi precious jewellery in the collection line. Keeping the Calvin klein low profile, Francisco Costa tailored styles naturally in a selection of colours such as white, black and brown. Alexander Wang at Balenciaga showcased monochromatic structured collection. The Pre-Fall season can be summed up as an alluring, and diversity in galore experience. We witnessed the genesis of new trends in the changing world of fashion and keeping the spirit high the season turned out to be outstandingly perfect.


RTW|Pre-Fall 2013/14 Collections

Hervé Léger by Max Azria

Alice + Olivia

Carolina Herrera

Hervé Léger by Max Azria

Diane von Furstenberg

Just Cavalli

Pre-Fall 2013/14 Collections|RTW

Alice + Olivia

Oscar de la Renta

Colour & Prints The colour blast and the creative prints carry forward the excitement of Pre-Fall 2013-14. Embroideries and graphics enthused with colours highlight the spirit of new optimism that comes from the season S/S 2013.

Carolina Herrera



RTW|Pre-Fall 2013/14 Collections

Burberrry Prorsum

Jason Wu

Jason Wu

Calvin Klein

Diesel Black Gold

Diesel Black Gold

Diesel Black Gold

Pre-Fall 2013/14 Collections|RTW




From pants, jackets, skirts and full ensembles, leather is being highlighted for the season in all its forms. With edgy and commercial treatments, leather in all its forms is one of the strongest comeback trends.

Burberrry Prorsum



RTW|Pre-Fall 2013/14 Collections


Reed Krakoff

Just Cavalli

Just Cavalli

Reed Krakoff

Reed Krakoff

Pre-Fall 2013/14 Collections|RTW

Thakoon Addition


Animalistic Carrying forward the spring flair, the florals make a romantic revival in whimsical and artistic tropical prints and foliage infused embellishments. Epitomizing timeless elegance, the blossoming flowers highlight the structured pants and blazers or adorning tea party dresses.

Sonia Rykiel



RTW|Pre-Fall 2013/14 Collections

Michael Kors

Carolina Herrera

Oscar de la Renta

Michael Kors

Michael Kors

Carolina Herrera

Pre-Fall 2013/14 Collections|RTW

Oscar de la Renta


Oscar de la Renta

Carrying forward the spring flair, the florals make a romantic revival in whimsical and artistic tropical prints and foliage infused embellishments. Epitomizing timeless elegance, the blossoming flowers highlight the structured pants and blazers or adorning tea party dresses.

Carolina Herrera



RTW|Pre-Fall 2013/14 Collections

Badgley Mischka

Jason Wu

Just Cavalli

Just Cavalli

Badgley Mischka

Badgley Mischka

Diane von Furstenberg

Pre-Fall 2013/14 Collections|RTW

Badgley Mischka

Monique Lhuillier

Ornamentation The collections feature intricate baroque style embroideries, complex embellished patterns, crochets, metallic jacquards, lace trimmings, on wool, velvets and chiffons, appearing on jackets, trousers and tunic tops.

Carolina Herrera


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