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Global Kids Fashion Week AlexandAlexa, the global online style destination for kids launched the first ever Global Kids’ Fashion Week from 19th – 20th March 2013 which took place at the Freemason’s Hall, Holborn, London.

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he schedule included two main shows – an exclusive media event showcasing the latest A/W13 trends from leading children’s labels worldwide on Tuesday 19th March; and a public show with S/S13 season looks from the AlexandAlexa brand portfolio on Wednesday 20th March. With the spotlight on premium kids’ fashion, from both established designers and emerging names, the shows included brands such as Paul Smith Junior, Junior Gaultier, Chloe, Little Marc Jacobs, I Pinco Pallino, Suzanne Ermann, Anne Kurris, Supertrash and premium casual brands such as Tommy Hilfiger, Diesel, Scotch Shrunk, Scotch R’Belle, Wildfox. The event featured runway shows and performances as well as a mix of playful activities for children and parents in collaboration with event partner the V&A Museum of Childhood. AlexandAlexa offers over 200 premium brands spanning fashion, toys, sports and lifestyle. The site was launched in October 2007 by husband and wife duo Alex Theophanous and Alexa Till. With two children under the age of five, the pair loathed the stress of family shopping trips. To access the world’s best kids collections without having to hit a high street, they created an online shopping destination for parents. After five years on, the company has exceeded all growth expectations and today is a global player with a thriving customer base in over 100 countries.

Mast Head RTW Number 001, Jan 2013 Online Edition, RTWmag.com

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Made in


Marche


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RTW|Corporate Initiatives

Defined as the “New Tuscany”, the Re is fast developing as a competitive De world market... By Annou Iyer, Editor, RTW Mag

Made in Marche Italy’s Hidden Design Treasure


egion of Marche esign Hub in the

Corporate Initiatives|RTW Regione Marche Special

RTW decided to visit this relatively unknown region, where Italy’s finest craftsman meticulously transform ideas into world’s finest fashion, leather and luxury products…

I

n central Italy on the Adriatic coast, the Marche region is striking for the rich variety of its main characteristics: environment and landscape, history and tradition, art and culture, expertise and knowledge. The Marche region is characterized by an economic structure strongly based on the manufacturing industry, with a high industrialization rate as with the more advanced regions of Italy. Synonymous by a strong entrepreneurial spirit that originates in the ancient family traditions of Le Marche’s cluster manufacturers, the region runs on an unusual model, whose success is based on a vast and widespread network of small family run enterprises. The so called ‘Marche Region model’ has been often indicated as a model from which one could draw important policy lessons. Particularly how its art and design territories which have practically no chance to compete for ‘global development’, by attracting foreign direct investment, may want to try to promote ‘endogenous development’.

Some brands whose products are manufactured by small and micro enterprises in Le Marche • EMPORIO ARMANI • TOD’s • CARLO PIGNATELLI • ROBERTO CAVALLI • JIL SANDER • GIANFRANCO FERRÈ • DOLCE & GABBANA • CANALI

• VERSACE • FURLA • LARDINI • GILMAR • FAY • MAXMARA • FORNARINA

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RTW|Corporate Initiatives

Fierce Independence of Italian Regionalism Representing “Made in Italy ” in its true sense, the Marche region offers a range of skills and expertise in sectors such as hides, leather, footwear, accessories; textile and clothing; wood and furniture; mechanics; food production: shipbuilding; rubber and plastic; and tourism. Probably this is the only place in the world where one can see leading brands and established companies found side by side with small production firms, manufacturers and craftsmen. What is most refreshing here is the strength of community and the vitality that matches its heritage. The region’s companies have been operating in various highly specialised sectors. The typical regional excellences from Marche are fashion, furniture and agricultural sectors.

40% of Marche’s workforce is employed in the textile, garment, footwear, minerals and metal, mechanics and furniture industries. Over 25% of the region’s exports come from the Footwear and garments 25% while furniture represents 5%. In addition, there are various productions belonging to the ancient handicraft tradition, well known in the world through product image economic profile which is also a vehicle for the culture of the territor y: musical instruments, gold smiths, textile manufacturing, hat production, production of high-end paper and other artisan products. At the same time, the Marche region has also developed new high technology sectors in the territor y, which offer innovative products and services such as: domotics (both for Ambient

Assisted Living and eco-sustainability), advanced telecommunications, multimedia animation, educational toys, pharmaceuticals, and biotechnology. Together these products contribute to develop around the world the image of “Made in Marche”. Our visit to Regione Marche included meetings with Mr. Orsetti Raimondo, Director of International Affairs, Culture & Tourism and visits to several factories, Leather, Footwear & Accessories Marche is known for its leather craftsmanship and artisans, producing 90% of all Italy ’s shoes. Many are hidden in the hill-top towns (in the centre of Marche near Fermo), family run businesses quietly making beautiful leather items for the big designer names. The region is one of


Corporate Initiatives|RTW Productive clusters localization

PU

AN

MC

Mechanics

FM

Multisector Hide, leather, footwear Wood and furniture

AP

Textile, clothing

Source: IPI - Institute for Industrial Promotion the leading regions for the number of companies in the leather and footwear sector. Boasting of the biggest network, in terms of number of companies and workers employed, of satellite leather and footwear industries in Italy, the Region has over 5,000 enterprises based on handcraftsmanship and its main export markets are: European Union, Russian Federation, North America and Far East. Fashion Manufacturing is predominant in the sector, while textile is identified with knitwear. In terms of distribution throughout the territor y, companies which produce garments and clothing, specialized in high fashion items, are located mainly in the provinces of Ancona and Macerata, whereas in the provinces of

Ascoli Piceno and Fermo there is a concentration of small businesses involved in the production of hats. In the province of Pesaro-Urbino there are numerous companies involved in the production and treatment of casual clothing. The knitwear and stockings district is spread around the province of Macerata and in the area of Urbino, where there is a significant presence of the wool industr y (spinning, winding). In 2011 the main export markets were Russia, Germany (+10% with respect to 2010) and France (+17%), followed by Denmark and Romania (+14.8%). Wood and Furniture The wood and furniture industr y holds a prominent position in the manufacturing sector. Located principally in the province of PersaroUrbino, the wood and furniture

district boasts relevant sites also in the provinces of Ancona, Macerata and Ascoli Piceno. The presence of high-tech industries for the production of machines used for wood carving, has contributed to the sector evelopment. The group of kitchen furniture producers is the most copious and important and has gained the lead role for the whole sector. The production of living room and bedroom furniture, armchairs and sofas, office furniture, bar and shop interiors, wicker furniture, and glass and cr ystal fittings is remarkable as well. In 2011, the main export markets were France, Russia (+19.5% with respect to 2010) and Germany. Other markets with registered a significant growth were: Switzerland (+ 13,9%), United States (+26,1%) and The Netherlands (+45,1%).

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RTW|Corporate Initiatives

Camerino, Macerata

Ancona

Monte San Bartolo, Pesaro-Urbino

Torre di Palme, Fermo

Offida, Ascoli Piceno


Corporate Initiatives|RTW

Fano, Pesaro-Urbino

Ascoli Piceno

Cingoli, Macerata

Loreto, Ancona

Porto San Giorgio, Fermo

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RTW|Corporate Initiatives Our visit to Regione Marche included visits to some to the best companies of this region such as Fiam, Scavolini, Loriblu, Orlandi, Silvio Lattanzi & Tombolini, which are international market leaders in their subsectors. We also met with Mr. Gian Mario Spacca, President, Regione Marche as well as Mr. Orsetti Raimondo, Director of International Affairs, Culture & Tourism, Regione Marche. The President, Mr. Gian Mario Spacca gave us an insight on what makes this region special... Interview by Annou Iyer

RTW: Q&A Regione Marche attracts visitors and buyers from all over the world. What are the promotional activities and plans you have put in place to promote Regione Marche to target visitor countries? The Marche stands for multiplicity, even when we talk about tourism. Therefore, the Region has fully increased the value of its extraordinary beauty and the many opportunities for the tourist offered by the territory. This is why the regional tourism strategy aims at promoting the different kinds of tourism that The Marche can boast - Sea, food and wine, spas, culture, mountains, meditation, sports, religion, historic villages. In order to face the challenge of the global market even in the tourism sector, The Marche came out from the logics of fragmented supply by territory, to favour the “product” offer, real networks of the same tourist proposal. The Marche abandoned the logics of local offer and presented the market with a single brand, The Marche Brand, the only one which is able to create the critical mass, which is necessary to assert itself at an international level. The Marche has been acting like this for a long time and this strategy is rewarding: The Marche is now out of the shadow, is ‘in fashion’, this is how international magazines and newspapers recognize this region. Therefore, The Marche is going on running across this way, integrating every single tourism product one with each other and enhancing its peculiarity at the same time. The Marche’s sea with its 16 blue flags, the most beautiful villages in Italy, the cellars and the finest wines, excellent cuisine as well as fashion; The Marche with a hundred theaters, the most prestigious opera seasons, religious and spiritual paths along the “rolling hills,” as American people like to call them. They defined the region one of heavens on earth where to live. The territory can offer its best in every season: the exploitation of accommodation facilities in low seasons is therefore an important point of our strategy. Qualitative growth, development of the presence of The Marche in the international

market especially favouring the areas with greater added value, increasing use of the web: these are the guidelines we are focusing on.

What is your strategic orientation for 2013 as far as emerging markets are concerned? We want to continue along the way with firm belief we have been going through for many years. The Region has indeed adopted a very determined action of strategic alliances with regional and provincial governments of all the BRIC countries. With India, China, Russia, Brazil, and, recently, the United Arab Emirates, The Marche has formed “alliances” with economic and institutional regions and provinces, started partnerships and strategic projects. The Marche Authorities had to build the basis to open these countries to the enterprises from The Marche Region. If the Made in Marche is so appreciated and recognized in these areas of the world, it is also thanks to the constant action of the Region, which let the territory be acknowledged as a reliable and appreciable partner.

What are the key emerging markets for Regione Marche? All the so-called BRIC countries which now, for The Marche, are no longer emerging countries, but are the real protagonists of the world economy. Strongly developing countries despite the international crisis, where new high income brackets are emerging. Strategic areas for The Marche’s companies, which on the contrary, in traditional markets (Italian and European) have to face many difficulties due to the economic crisis that particularly affects our continent. By contrast, the growth these countries underwent in recent years, and the strength they showed up against the heavy international crisis that hit all the more developed economies, makes them the ideal partners for The Marche, a manufacturing industry. What’s more, the most manufacturing region in Italy in relation to population. And it is not by chance that the exports of The Marche towards these realities grew by 10% in 2012.

Regione Marche’s unique creative offerings have caught the attention of international fashion brands and investors, especially Chinese visitors & investors. How do you see its influence in Regione Marche? The recent crisis that threatened all the economies of the world, taught us that you can continue to grow only by working together, putting together the best of our virtues and our best productions of qualified projects, respectful of citizens and of the environment we live in. This is what we did with the Far East. The internationalization has always been one of the priorities of Marche’s government. It is only with the opening abroad, particularly in countries with high growth rates, that it is possible to deal with the severe economic crisis that we are still living, and aim to re-launch looking at the future with confidence. So far, the path followed by The Marche was mainly that of the promotion of business and of the economic production system abroad, through an action of support and technical assistance on the fastest growing markets which are not always easy to deal with. Now the strategy is finalized, with the strengthening of investments attraction in The Marche. Among the actions the Region is undertaking in this direction, it may be recalled the establishment of a register of professionals (planners, management engineers, architects, etc.) specialized in technical and commercial access to potential investors, in particular in support of preparatory activities for foreign investment inflows. According to the requirements defined by the Region, these can be identified and officially accredited professionals who are able to support the start-up of projects to be set up in The Marche. A “Fund for the promotion of productive investment and employment in the territory” will be set aside, with a budget equal to € 1.5 million, for the provision of


Corporate Initiatives|RTW

vouchers, with a public coverage of up to 50%, to admitted professionals. The Marche is receiving increased attention from foreign investors who consider Marche’s businesses and territory as a reliable and concrete partner. And this is the way, we want to go on with greater and greater conviction.

Moreover, which are those factors that are attracting Chinese visitors & investors? And, what are those motivating features of Regione Marche’s industry, which can pull attention of global investors? The areas of interest for Chinese investors are mainly fashion, clothing and footwear representing the pride of Made in Italy, but also the mechanical, marine, logistics systems, the service sector such as health. The Marche is a region rich in knowledge, home of world famous brands with a strong appeal, boasting experience and know-how in many areas. China has huge financial resources and is looking for new “outlets”. From this land, Chinese investment in The Marche have been created. Suffice it to recall the case of the Benelli, taken over in 2005 by the Chinese group Qinjiang, which has survived the crisis thanks to the opening of the market to foreign investors in accordance with The Marche style. Another striking example is the recent acquisition of shares of the Ferretti Group by Weichai Group, from Shandong. This is the largest Chinese investment ever made in Europe. An investment that has allowed the re-launch of the shipyards and the resilience of employment. The trust that over the years has developed between this province in China and The Marche Region, I believe has contributed

to the achievement of this important result, recently confirmed by the launch of the largest yacht ever built in Ancona, the 80 meters Chopi Chopi designed to the family of the Lebanese Prime Minister. And then, I was saying, fashion, especially shoes. The interest of the Chinese market to the Marche’s products was proven by the success of The Micam Show in Shanghai: the important footwear exhibition, which has landed for the first time abroad, had as protagonists the entrepreneurs from The Marche who have confirmed their appeal in China. I mentioned then the services: just recently a Chinese delegation visited some of our hospitals, such as the company Marche Nord in Pesaro. One area on which we want to open our horizons more and more internationally. Top design, quality and originality of the product and intelligent interpretation of the factor of greater competitiveness are now offered to businesses in international markets: these are the strengths of the Made in Marche that is gaining much attention from foreign investors.

How trading with Regione Marche can be rewarding globally for exporting and importing countries? Product quality, research, reliability, combined with the history and tradition of manufacturing in The Marche, ancient yet always focused on the future. The countries with which historically the region has trade relations and on which the export is stronger, better ask or demand that the products are not only regional, but that they are actually made in The Marche. A guarantee that our companies, in all sectors, are able to offer.

We are confident that the relationships and institutional partnerships, as I said, the Region has started with provinces and regions in countries such as India, China and Russia, have contributed to the recognition of The Marche as reliable system. Our export is therefore constantly growing even with a crisis like the one that our country is still experiencing.

Which are the major export and import countries for Regione Marche companies? Why? In terms of absolute value, the 27 European countries are the largest recipients of exports from The Marche, yet the BRIC countries immediately follow. And it is especially on the percentage growth in the last few year that the Far East, as well as North America and the United Arab Emirates, mark the best performance for The Marche’s products. For the former, the growth in 2012 was 10% compared to the previous year, for Canada, the United States and the UAE, the growth was 38 +% in both cases. This trend follows the geography of institutional relations I spoke earlier about. Relations have grown year after year and passed not only through more traditional forms of agreements of the program, but even by the most innovative ones. I think of the cultural projects that The Marche has realized in Canada, the United States, China, Argentina, with exhibits from the strong emotional appeal for the public. Another reason for the success of the products of The Marche in these countries, is the growth - I think especially in the BRIC - of the high quality customers, who are more and more demanding and appreciate the quality and research that are the hallmarks of Made in Marche.

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RTW|Corporate Initiatives

Regione Marche Special

Fiam

Recently celebrating its 40th Anniversary, my visit to Fiam Italia Headquarters and their Museum of Glass left me fascinated by the founder, Vittorio Livi’s lifelong commitment to art, design and creation…

B

ased in Pesaro, in Marche Region, Fiam Italia is one of the most inspiring brands in the design world. Fiam Italia is not just a Glass manufacturing company. The idiosyncrasy of its huge body of work lies in its specialization of developing curved glass in different features that truly serves craftsmanship and artwork. The company was established in 1973, and since then, Vittorio Livi, an Italian designer with boundless passion has created challenging projects for the enterprise. Curved glass being the main FIAM Italia furnishings’ feature: unique pieces of furniture have been created over decades to give a

special touch to the space. Furnishings have been realized with special techniques by specialized craftsman and master benders who possess the know-how in the field of curved glass manufacturing. “Glass would become a unique star in the world of fine design, being used to produce items of furniture which would be astonishingly solid yet beautifully transparent; design items which would rise above the age of their production, untouched by the passing years, spaces and fashions.” Vittorio Livi, Founder, Fiam Italia Vittorio Livi


Ghost

Shell

Caadre

Toki

Fiam’s Design Classics For the past two decades, Vittorio Livi has invited famous Italians as well as world renown designers to cooperate and create several interesting works, such as Philippe Starck, Enzo Mari, Massimo Morozzi or even Ron Arad to produce an eclectic collection that includes tables, chairs, storage, and complements. One of the masterpieces of FIAM is the ‘Ghost’ chair which was designed by Cini Boeri and Tomu Katayanagi in 1987. It consists of a spacious, comfortable, elegant, streamlined armchair made from a 12 meter single piece of molded glass that looks both massive and ethereal, playing the dematerialized qualities of glass off the broad lines of the seat and back. This famous design was another opportunity for Fiam to dream up one of its ultra innovative production techniques that can support a huge weight.

While “Ghost” of Boeri and Katayanagi makes use of a single sheet of glass, ‘Shell’ stunningly blends form and function and explores the unique qualities of glass. The work, designed by Danny Lane is created by pieces of curved glass held together by stainless steel tubes. The exquisite ‘Caadre’ mirror, a simple rectangular design made entirely out of glass has been created by world famous Philippe Starck for Fiam Italia. The distinctive feature of this mirror is its size and curved glass frame, a unique Fiam Italia skill. The frame is made of a 6-mm thick glass with a metallic paint finish. Two Japanese designers, Setsu and Shinobu Ito who are based in Milan have produced a table top named ‘Toki’ from a curving 10 mm-glass that can support weight and provide practical space.

The Process State-of- the-art technologies developed by Fiam Italia are applied at particular stages of the process to ensure that the material is as resistant as possible. Fiam’s philosophy is to combine modern methods perfectly with the individual skills of its expert glass makers to make each piece unique. Today, the Fiam collection have reached its fifth generation of glass bending plants, with the master craftsmen now assisted by technologies and materials that allow designers the flexibility to create pieces that would have previously been impossible to realize. Even though Fiam Italia’s 40th Anniversary has recently passed, they continue to develop their technique as well as their product. Their philosophy signifies the material’s principal properties of purity and strength and most importantly its property of renewing itself with changing times.


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RTW|Corporate Initiatives

Regione Marche Special

Fiam

We spoke to Vittorio Livi to understand what makes Fiam such a sought after brand, which is also now available in India... RTW: Q&A What are the challenges you have faced over the last many years in the glass industry? How do you cope with the emerging economical pressures of the industry?

focused on price have gone out of business or are heading that way. Our customers expect quality, innovation, design and culture: they want to feel secure in their purchase and to show off objects of value.

Fiam celebrates 40 years in business this year, and this experience has enabled it to overcome the difficulties facing it during the last few years of economic downturn; its cultural and financial soundness have protected it from the market’s problems and from economic difficulties. Product innovation to stimulate the market, the rationalisation of company costs and the high business standards of our distributors; all these have helped us to keep our company in line with the market’s needs.

How the designers associated with Fiam Italia contributed in the growth of your brand? How do you ensure to make use of their creative vision?

What is the future of the glass industry? Can glass items replace wooden furniture in the long run? Glass is the modern age’s most interesting material, because it is environment-friendly and infinitely recyclable. Since it is transparent, it does not visually occupy space and it enhances the effect of the other furnishings by highlighting the whole of its interior design context. It fits attractively into any style, whether modern, antique or contemporary, it is resistant to weather, it gains in value over time and its durability is unlimited. We have a collection called “myths for everyday use” because our products can be used for a variety of purposes and are there when you need them. Naturally, although glass has now been with us for 7,000 years there is still a lot we need to find out about it, so research is a major investment area for us, and so is design. It is only with these characteristics that glass will have a great future. All the companies which have not given due weight to this aspect but have only

Since we have created a profession that did not previously exist, we have been forced to continually invent equipment and technologies that would enable us to put our designers’ many imaginative ideas into practice; we have never set technical limits, and have given them full opportunity to express their talent. This in turn has stimulated us to push back the boundaries of our know-how. Our laboratory and research centre are constantly under pressure, and sometimes it has taken us years of research and experimentation to develop products that initially appeared impossible. There is no point to our company unless it is stimulated by great design professionals to grow through research and quality, by producing prestige objects.

How did you manage to bridge the gap between the quality of your products and making it commercial viable at the same time? One of our company ’s tasks has always been to transform the ideas of the top international designers, who interpret the main design currents of our age, into reality (this is why it has received the Compasso d’Oro Career award). Although it has been a long process, because it has required us to build up trust, we have succeeded in conquering a market niche amongst people in search of products that are not only functional but also convey

emotion. Every piece expresses the artistic signature of its master designer, but we give just as much importance to the work of the master glass-maker in the furnace, where he shapes glass to his will at a temperature around 700°C, impressing on it all the love and passion that go into its making. In the furnace, every product is marked not only with the logo but also with a number that indicates the date, the master glass-maker who made it and the piece number, making it truly unique. Connoisseurs know that only pieces with these markings are guaranteed as genuine Fiam creations.

How do you come up with new designs? After market research, and after identification of a number of pointers to coming trends, we assess the trends we consider most interesting and the needs of our catalogue, after which we look for the designers best suited to that particular brief.

Any set priorities in the creation process? How do you ensure that the creative process of the product is not compromised with the customer’s demand? Our research laboratory and the workshop that produces the prototypes are always on the boil, partly because not all the prototypes we produce are subsequently put into production. Generally, the designer and the laboratory meet 4/5 times to ensure that the technical difficulties do not override the design’s stylistic identity, and to look for the best solutions in terms of costs; in the end, our technical staff always draw on their experience to solve the problems, preferably with original solutions.


Regione Marche Special

Orlandi Celebrating sartorial craft, Valentino Orlandi is a historic Le Marche leather goods brand, with over 30 years of history, which manufactures bags in the highest tradition of the Marche…

O

rlandi leather bags are synonymous with good quality and taste. Set in Corridonia, in the Province of Macerata in the Italian region Marche, Valentino Orlandi is a leading brand in producing and distributing “Made in Italy” bags. Founded in 1974 by Valentino Orlandi himself, the brand always had a character of the founder’s elegance and good taste with its usage of high quality material and contemporary design. ‘‘A point of reference of Marche leather district, the company covers a factory area of 5000 sq meter and from here precious creations are sent all over the world to represent one of best expressions of Made in Italy.’’

The Process of Creation The brand’s original and exquisite materials are processed and handled by internal master craftsmen, who along with Valentino Orlandi, select all the materials, colours and luxurious hardware in order to offer the right product addressed to its clientele. The products are guaranteed by the years of experience, modern product technologies, and use of rare leathers and by professionalism of the in house experienced artisans. Today, Valentino Orlandi guides the company with his wide Adelaide in charge of manufacturing process and with his daughters Cristina and Francesca in charge of sales department.

Valentino Orlandi


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RTW|Corporate Initiatives

Regione Marche Special

Loriblu

An Italian footwear company famous for their glitzy, bejewelled sandals that are popular among Russian and Middle Eastern high flyers, celebrities and anyone wanting their feet to be remembered…

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uring our visit to Loriblu’s factor y & Showroom in Marche, we met Mrs. Annaria Pilotti who manages, together with her husband, Graziano Cuccù, the running of the company. Loriblu is a well- established and historic firm, born in the 70’s, characterized by a continuous positive trend: it is a leader in the luxur y range footwear market. Graziano Cuccù established Loriblu in the early 70’s and he continues to create all the collections himself. His wife, Annarita Pilotti is involved with Graziano in the running of the company.

“In Graziano Cuccu’s words, the founder of Loriblu, “I would like to have been an archaeologist, I was enamoured of the beautiful things. I am in love with beautiful things that could be handmade.” This Italian shoemaking brand believes in the beauty of simplicity and expresses entirely, the solidity of a tight-knit team and of a staff formed by highly qualified and skilled professional figures and craftsmen. The brand redefines contemporary approach to glamour, sensuality and style, while retaining the highest quality and comfort. It’s use of out-of-the-ordinary and unexpected design combinations make its each shoe a perfectly crafted work of art.

Mrs. Annaria Pilotti and Graziano Cuccù


Style Quotient The Mignon (an extremely feminine shoe that develops from simple little woven stripes of leather) became his first successful style, followed by the Jewel Sandal in the’80’s and ‘90’sthat constitutes a Loriblu must-have to this day. In the last few years, the Loriblu brand has remarkably widened thanks to a thorough stylistic research and product innovation in the field of luxury footwear, while firmly maintaining the Marche-based shoemaking tradition. Leather twisted together exclusively by

skilled hands, Swarovski encrusted sky high heels and risqué thigh length boots made with buttery Leathers and Suedes are its Luxury style statements that have been introduced in its several monobrand shops in Italy and abroad. “Made in Italy are not just words, It’s the history, tradition and culture of our country, and the craft of so many men and women who work to create things of true beauty.” Annarita Pilotti

Internationalization Loriblu has today managed to make its mark internationally and in emerging markets and continues to grow into an international company with its product diversification with its ranges in bags, jewel line, fragrances for women, besides footwear. The brand is present at Roma, Milano, Parigi, Mosca, San Pietroburgo, Dubai, Doha, Khabarovsk, Grodno and most recently, Paris. It’s next stage of development will begin with its mono brand store openings in Brazil, China and South Africa.


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RTW|Corporate Initiatives

Regione MarcheUomo Special Pitti Immagine

Silvano Lattanzi I visited the noted Italian shoemaker during my trip to Marche and I found out why from Milan to New York City, Silvano Lattanzi is celebrated as the world’s leading custom footwear maker…

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ootwear maker Silvano Lattanzi prides himself on meticulous workmanship, crafting each pair of shoes by hand from the most luxurious materials. His “Shoe Laboratory” or the Head Quarters are beautifully located in Sant’Elpidio a Mare, a town and commune in the province of Fermo, in the Marche region of Italy. Here, the customers can choose among 400 leathers, differing heel styles, lining, stitching, and even eyelets, for shoes to be elaborately made by hand with the utmost skill. His company, Zintala was started in 1971 by Silvano Lattanzi himself, who hailed

Silvano Lattanzi

from a family of shoemakers. Since then till now, the company has fitted some of the most elite feet around the globe including the American Presidents such as Ronald Reagan and Barack Obama to celebrities such as Uma Thurman and many more. The brand has footwear aficionados enjoying the quality of his bespoke shoes all across the globe. “I’ve always believed that beauty is everywhere in the world and my visualization of the world that I had, as a part of my vision helped me cross the borders.”


The indigenous Process From the moment the skin is chosen, there are over 300 operations to make a pair of Silvano Lattanzi shoes. It takes 30 to 33 hours and seven to 14 days to complete, depending on the humidity of the season. Of course, the Made to measure orders take much more time and is more complex. Silvano Lattanzi on his beginnings & his success I had to start the tradition about 40 years ago, when Marche was an agricultural region and very poor. So when I started my company, I had to change that impression about the region. I knew that I had to grow out of Marche and reach to New York, London, Paris and even Mumbai. In terms of internationalization, I have politically stayed away from the

influence of China and Russia and have followed England, America and India’s ethos. That’s why I am very happy to have you here from India. So to be famous in the 70s and being the best in the world, I think that became my biggest advantage. I’ve always believed that beauty is everywhere in the world and my visualization of the world that I had, as a part of my vision helped me cross the borders. I always say that anyone who knows how to manufacture leather, can do anything in fashion, because leather is a very rigorous and demanding material, the processing of which requires arm strength and accuracy in your fingers through which leather is sewn with the help of a small needle. That’s why at that time, and in the following years, those characters who had acquired

great skills and good taste in making bags and suitcases found it natural to include the design of fabrics and tailored clothes with results that soon overtook French haute couture. What my company represents and what my finished products represent is a ethical role, rather than commercial one: the role to preserve some ancient rules of processing of leather, while respecting the environment around me and the memory of those who were our masters . Today, his 34 and 32 year old sons are taking forward the legacy, right from Sant’Elpidio a Mare in Marche, where it had all started. The brand has boutiques in Rome, Milan, St. Moritz, Porto Cervo, New York, Beijing, Shanghai and Hangzhou and soon. Mumbai is his next stop !


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RTW|Corporate Initiatives

Regione Marche Special

Scavolini Scavolini from Montelabbate, province of Pesaro, Marche region in Italy is one of the most important industry of Marche that has been offering best kitchen furnishings for more than 50 years in the home market...

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s a leading designer and manufacturer of exclusive classic and modern Italian kitchen cabinetry with an equally exclusive reputation, Scavolini has impressively large figures, with a growing success at the international level. From a small workshop, this family run company has grown to major industrial status in Kitchens, Living, bathrooms, Tables and Chairs. We met with Vittorio Renzi, general manager of the company, to know more on the Group’s growth and development plans and their future markets of interests…

Mr. Vittorio Renzi CEO of Scavolini Spa. Please share with us the history of Scavolini Initially a small workshop, Scavolini launched its business in Pesaro in 1961 with a small range of fitted kitchens, which immediately prove very popular. This was the start of the great adventure of the brothers Valter and Elvino Scavolini who, encouraged by their initial success, expanded their premises and made innovations that helped their business to grow quickly. From 1970 to 1979, in order to expand its output, Scavolini consolidated its distribution network and reinforced its sales network, adopting more and more leading-edge

technologies, and started to work with specialist designers for the first time. The aim was to come up with the best solutions and offer the best services. The company’s turnover and visibility increased and in 1975, it launched its first nation-wide advertising campaign. In 1984, Scavolini won the leading position on the domestic market and became Italy’s most important kitchen brand, and till date, we’ve managed to hold the position very well. Scavolini turned 50 years old in 2011 and today, the company has an Italian distribution network of more than 1,000 carefully selected outlets.


Can you give us an insight on your Foreign Markets? From the year 2000 onwards, Scavolini has been focussed on strengthening its international exports. We have a broad distribution network overseas that allows us to be present in more than 60 countries with over 300 sales points. We are working world wide and the United States is the most important market for us: in 2010 our American branch, Scavolini Usa, inaugurated the Scavolini Soho Gallery, the biggest kitchen showroom in Manhattan, with a surface area of 900 m2 over two levels. We have an increasingly strong presence in emerging countries including Africa and Far East where we are opening several stores, and we are a partner in major residential projects.

Will Scavolini ever consider manufacturing in China or India? Scavolini in away defines itself as the kitchen most loved by Italians. We’ve always stood for “Made in Italy”, and our production being carried out in our country with many suppliers located close to us. Hence we have created a great supply network for ourselves in the local area. This is really a strategic choice and has always been one of our strengths. We prefer to remain in Italy not only because we are deeply rooted in our country, but also because we are convinced that by staying here we are able to control the quality of our products and production processes better, providing greater assurance to our customers. Though our focus is now on developing

emerging markets, we will never change our manufacturing base to other countries. Will Scavolini ever consider manufacturing in China or India? The Scavolini Soho Gallery is situated in the artistic heart of NYC. The location is a prestigious building from the IXX century, in 1872. For more than twenty-five years, the space belonged to Nancy Hoffman Gallery, one of the most important art galleries of New York. As a tribute to such a glorious past, we have decided to maintain the architectural style unchanged and define its showroom as “Gallery”. The area of over 10,000 square feet, on two levels, not only is an exhibition of kitchens, but most of all a place that conjugates art and Italian design.


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RTW|Corporate Initiatives

Pitti Immagine Regione MarcheUomo Special

Tombolini Based out of a small town called Urbisaglia, in the Marche region, Tombolini company originated in 1964 from a high level of expertise and technique and an original creative eye...

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he collections of the company have been classic Italian with its usage of very high quality materials selected from the best textile manufacturers and a passion for Made in Italy. These are the main principles that inspired Eugenio Tombolini in the 50s, when he opened a shop selling hand-tailored men’s suits. And these are the same

values that now motivate his daughter, Fiorella Tombolini, who shared with us the history of the company and its internationalization‌ Today, Tombolini Industrie S.r.l. is run by his daughter Fiorella Tombolini who, together with the management team, is strengthening and expanding the business.

Dott. Fiorella Tombolini with son, Silvio Calvigioni


The History In 1933, Eugenio Tombolini was born in Urbisaglia, Macerata. He grew up in an environment where the typical agricultural activities were yielding to a developing textile industry that was fostered both by tradition and modernity. In the 50s, Eugenio Tombolini began his apprenticeship with a tailor where he acquired the art of cutting and sewing, putting to the test his own special qualities as an innovative entrepreneur. In 1964, he opened his own tailor’s shop. The business flourished entering an important stage as he began to produce his own line of high qualità menswear. In the 70s and 80s the dream of a generation began to take shape in a small area of the Marche demonstrating that wealth and community life could live hand in hand. The New markets Tombolini has been focussing on

the new markets such as China and South America, in particular Brazil and Argentina. The company already has a showroom in Buenos Aires, foreseeing the good growth prospects for the future, in spite of a certain political instability. The same is happening with Russia, where the brand has established a partnership with other high quality brands. Continuing with strength and conviction in its strategic international development plan, in the year 2012, Tombolini partnered with the prestigious Baoxiniao Group of Santangelo brand, with whom the brand has opened its third boutique in China. After Wenzhou and Hangzhou in 2011, the brand’s new store came up in Beijing. For all its new markets, the company plans to produce specific “country plans” with dedicated collections and targeted distribution, as it believes in

offering an individualized approach that is based on varying tastes. Tombolini Women’s Division The women’s fashion division, which was launched in 2002, where the brand has introduced the same level of meticulousness and quality that it applies in men’s fashion, especially with regards the choice of materials. The brand has been focusing on classicstyle suits for business women. The Zero Gravity Line Collection Tombolini’s new creations have a lightness in its suits and jackets that are made with a new technique and with fabrics of especially lightweight. The main concept of Zero Gravity is based on its soft silks and wools that make the finished garment light and comfortable to be determined, as the maximum achievable.


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New Horizons

Prada focuses on Asian Airports as Asia’s Air Traffic Flourishes Opens a store in Singapore’s Changi Airport & Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi Airport...

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he demand for a greater choice in elite travel trends from across Asia shows signs of a rise in the spending by Asian travellers. This has turned into a driving force in the revival of the European luxury market defying recession. One of the most historical luxury brands from Italy, Prada has opened its new stores in Singapore’s Changi Airport and Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi Airport recently. The store in Singapore, in Changi Airport’s Terminal 3 is designed by architect Roberto Baciocchi, with a total surface of about 120 square metres on a single level and offers the men’s and women’s bags and accessories collections. While the Accessories store at Bangkok Airport features accessories, bags, shoes, eyewear for both men and women, within an exclusively designed store which covers 100 sq m. Prada Group’s Miu Miu brand is also expected to open at the Bangkok airport later this year. At the presentation of its 2012 Annual Report, Prada’s CEO, Patrizio Bertelli commented “ The year 2012 saw the Group set new records in terms of revenues and earnings. Based on these results and a sound equity and financial structure, we will proceed along our path of growth with further investment on retail network expansion, confident that, general economic uncertainty notwithstanding, the

work that has been done over the past few years has laid the foundations for the future success of our business.” Prada is also extending its reach into fast-growing markets in the Middle East and South America, as well as the U.S. In the U.S., Prada said it would turn some of its wholesale businesses into directly operated shops, which are more profitable than selling through department stores. As per the group’s vice president, Carlo Mazzi, Prada is opening stores in Qatar and other regions in Middle East. He said that around 80 more shops will be opened globally in 2013. The contribution made by the Middle East to the Group’s revenues is becoming important – 11 DOS have been opened in the last two years and the market generated net revenues of Euro 45 million in 2012. Double-digit growth was achieved on all markets with an increasingly important role played by Asia Pacific where revenues increased by 32.9% compared to 2011 (+22.7% at constant exchange rates) to reach Euro 1,160.2 million. Revenue also was up in crisis-hit Italy, where the company posted a 19% increase compared with a year earlier—mainly thanks to the influx of Chinese tourists travelling through Europe. Prada’s results are further proof that Europe’s fashion brands are benefiting from years of investment in emerging markets and this is continue to grow.


Business of Fashion|RTW New Appointments

Hermès Board nominates a new CEO

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uxury brand Hermès International has confirmed that Axel Dumas, currently chief operating officer, has been nominated to the post of joint-CEO by incumbent Patrick Thomas. The nomination will be put to a Hermès board Meeting on 4 June and would take effect immediately if ratified.

Elie Tahari appoints new CEO

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uxury fashion label Elie Tahari names Bob Galvin as the company’s new chief executive officer. Galvin previously served as president as The Camuto Group. Galvin will oversee wholesale, retail and international sales for women’s and men’s collections, as well as areas such as accessories, merchandising, marketing, licensing, product development and production.

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Fashion Events

Product Innovation Apparel 2013

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art of the Product Innovation series of events, PI Apparel 2013 is scheduled to take place in London from 16 to 17 July 2013. The event brings together the fashion and apparel industry to discuss the challenges and opportunities offered by modern technology for successful product development. The two day event will consider the methods and tools available to harmonise design, development, and

Fashion Events

the global supply chain through a series of case studies and product showcases. PI Apparel will take place at the Millennium Gloucester Hotel in London Kensington. The confirmed speakers from companies include Marc Jacobs, Deckers Outdoor Corp USA, Chicco brand Italy, Deckers Outdoor Corp USA, Studio Roosegaarde Netherlands, Cute Circuit UK, VF International Switzerland, TacIT Netherlands, Black Diamond Inc USA.

ITS International Talent Support 2013

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TS 2013 is coming up and is scheduled to take place 12 & 13 July 2013 in Trieste, Italy. ITS is a free competition for photographer, fashion, accessories and jewellery designer: the contest gives the students an international platform and an opportunity to show their work and talk to jurors like Marina Abramovic, Franca Sozzani, Viktor & Rolf, Raf Simons, Antonio Marras, Sophia Kokosalaki, Colin McDowell, and journalists and bloggers like Hilary Alexander, Cathy Horyn, Susie Bubble and many more. They could be featured in articles by the international press attending the event: Dazed & Confused, Vogue, Le Monde, Journal du Textil, Le Figaro, The Herald Tribune, GQ, Vanity Fair. The 4 competition fields are ITS FASHION - the established fashion competition for final year students of fashion design schools and young designers, ITS ACCESSORIES - the only accessory competition embracing all fields of accessories design, ITS JEWELRY - dedicated to jewellery in all its diverse forms and ITS PHOTO - an important observatory to discover the most skilled young photographers.


Business of Fashion|RTW

Fashion Events

Asia Fashion Summit returned in May 2013

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ashion entrepreneurs, iconic global brands and long time industry practitioners addressed industry trends and showcased best practices at the third Asia Fashion Summit. Organised by the Textile and Fashion Federation of Singapore (TaFf), AFS was held at Singapore’s Raffles City Convention Centre from 15 to 17 May as part of the Asia Fashion Exchange (AFX). The event was themed Engaging the Asian Fashion Consumer and focused on lifestyle retailing, digital media and technology – areas that give the industry a strategic edge in the business. The conference was aimed at brand owners, retailers, designers, creative directors, fashion buyers and fashion entrepreneurs. Topics were geared towards giving delegates a holistic view of the industry, focusing on areas that give businesses a competitive edge.

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RTW|Business of Fashion

Fashion Events

Blueprint 2013

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he Blueprint tradeshow is the premier Asian fashion tradeshow featuring Pre-¬Spring 2014 collections and featured emerging designer brands from Singapore as well as brands from Australia, Brazil, China, France, Hong Kong, India, Indonesia, Italy, Japan, Korea, Malaysia, Philippines, Singapore, Switzerland, Thailand, Trinidad & Tobago, United States of America, United Kingdom and Vietnam. More than 180 emerging and established womenswear, menswear and accessory brands took part in the fourth edition of Blueprint Tradeshow and Emporium from 16 to 19 May at Fashion by the Bay at The Pit Building. The major highlight of this year’s tradeshow was the increased and stronger collaboration between Singapore and other cities. One example is a fashion show organised by the Asia Fashion Federation that happened at Blueprint on 17 May and an accompanying showcase gallery from 16 to 17 May during the tradeshow. Singapore hosted this year’s Asia Fashion Federation Conference, and six representing designers, who are prominent names in their own countries presented their RTW collections; the six designers included Kaal E. Suktae Korea, Christian Dada Japan, Dieu Ahn Vietnam, Issue Thailand, Zou You China and Ong Shunmugam Singapore.


Business of Fashion|RTW Fashion Events

I Saloni 2013

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rom 9th to 14th April 2013, Milan played host to the Saloni 2013, as they unveiled their panoply of previously unseen home furnishing, lighting and office solutions, along with the biennial Euroluce, International Lighting Exhibition and SaloneUfficio, International Workspace Exhibition. These were accompanied, as always, by other events linked to the worlds of design, art and culture in the Fairgrounds and in the city, conceived with both the huge number of visitors to the Saloni and the Milanese themselves in mind. “Milan: interiors of tomorrow” was the banner heading this 52nd edition of the Salone Internazionale del Mobile, with the International Furnishing Accessories Exhibition, the biennial Euroluce and SaloneUfficio and SaloneSatellite. The key sectoral players included over 2,500 exhibitors showcasing their 2013 ranges inside the Rho Milan Fairgrounds pavilions. Several historical brands were back to the Salone Internazionale del Mobile and SaloneUfficio testifying to the Fair’s role as an industry-wide benchmark for originality, change and visibility. Euroluce, strategically located in 4 pavilions, comprised of 38,000 m2 of exhibition space. SaloneUfficio, sited directly opposite, in 2 adjoining pavilions took up 12,500 m2 of exhibition space, devoted to office furniture and accessories.

New Appointments

Lacoste appoints new CFO

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ashion and sportswear brand Lacoste has announced Jose Luis Duran as chief executive officer of Lacoste SA, succeeding Christophe Chenut. The appointment was announced at the company’s board meeting in December. Seven new members were also added to the Board of Directors.

Nicola Formichetti Named Artistic Director at Diesel

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ccording to the company’s press release, the designer will serve as the brand’s first artistic director and will be responsible not only for product design but marketing, communications and interior design. Diesel founder Renzo Rosso explained of the appointment: “I finally met somebody as crazy as I am. Nicola shares my vision and I find it incredibly inspiring to work with him: two creative planets are colliding to generate fresh, mad insane ideas.” Formichetti’s first collection will debut for Fall 2013.

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Market: India E-Commerce

Ashton Kutcher’s E-commerce startup debuts Spring line

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ickwick & Weller is an e-commerce start-up that designs, manufactures, and sells the perfect T-shirt. In April 2013, the company launched its Spring 2013 line and revealed a high-profile list of investors, including Forerunner Ventures, Felicis Ventures, SV Angel, Baseline Ventures, and Mousse Partners. Ashton Kutcher is one of the founders of Pickwick & Weller, along with serial entrepreneurs Ryan Donahue, a founding member of the PayPal design and user research and Matt Rowe. The trio has spent many years in the tech and fashion communities, and they wanted to create a brand that appealed to people looking for casual clothing for the workplace. Pickwick & Weller works with a range of high quality materials such as Supima, modal cotton, cashmere, silk and linen. Donahue said with T-shirts, the fit is just as important as the

fabric, and since the company has adopted an entirely online business model, it can offer high-end products at a lower price point. Pickwick & Weller’s design headquarters is in Los Angeles, with the business headquarters in San Francisco. There are currently nine employees. In addition to the institutional investors listed above, Ashton Kutcher, Warby Parker founder Dave Gilboa, and Max and Nellie Levchin also participated in this round.

E-Commerce

EBay Inc. Expects to Enable $300 Billion of Global Commerce in 2015

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eclaring mobile is leading a “commerce revolution” that will create significantly different consumer and retail experiences worldwide, EBay Inc. outlined its three-year growth strategies to lead and innovate in this technology-driven, more connected new commerce environment. In a company-held meeting for the financial community, eBay said it intends to drive strong continued growth in its core Marketplaces, PayPal and GSI Commerce businesses. At the same time, the company is focused on leveraging its global mobile commerce leadership and other commerce technologies to enable new experiences for consumers and retailers. “Led by mobile, a commerce revolution is under way,” said EBay Inc. President and CEO John Donahoe. “Technology is creating a new web-enabled retail interface, a new seamless, multiscreen commerce experience that connects consumers anytime, anywhere. This will expand shopping beyond conventional store environments and e-commerce sites. How we shop is being transformed, and eBay Inc. intends to be a leader in this new commerce world.” In 2015, the company expects to enable $300 billion of global commerce, compared to $175 billion in 2012; the company expects revenues to grow over 50 percent to at least $21.5 billion in 2015, up from $14.1 billion in 2012. Enabled commerce volume is the total commerce and payment volume across all three business units, consisting of Marketplaces gross merchandise volume, PayPal merchant services net total payment volume and GSI global ecommerce merchandise sales.


Business of Fashion|RTW Fashion Acclaim

Nicholas Kirkwood winner of Designer Fashion Fund

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icholas Kirkwood was announced as the winner of this year’s BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund by the British Fashion Council (BFC). The prize was established to enhance the reputation of London’s rising stars and assist in the development of their businesses. The Fund comprises of monetary prize of £200,000 and access to key senior level mentors across the UK fashion industry. Nicholas was chosen for his extremely professional 3 year plan and presentation. Nicholas has demonstrated exceptional skill in building a modern, individual and recognizable accessories line and was very clear on his business growth strategy and the key challenges he would like to address with the support of the Fund and its advisors. Kirkwood is an alumnus of prestigious design schools Central Saint Martins and Cordwainers. Kirkwood’s collection which was launched in spring 2005 challenged the conventions of women’s luxury footwear. The BFC will develop a bespoke mentoring programme tailored specifically to assist Nicholas to achieve his business goals for the next 18 months, with the aspiration that the network developed during this mentoring year will endure throughout his career as he makes the transition from a developing creative

business into a global fashion brand. Kirkwood’s stockist list includes many of the world luxury retailers such as 10 Corso Como, Milan; Barneys, New York and Lane Crawford, Hong Kong and has two recently opened flagship stores in London and New York.

Market Focus: India

Mridul Jacob from Chennai wins 7th edition of ‘The Debut’

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ills Lifestyle took forward its search for aspiring fashion talent with the seventh edition of ‘The Debut’, a unique initiative that recognizes India’s fresh talent. The Grand finale of The Debut took place in New Delhi, post regional rounds in Kolkata, Bangalore and Mumbai. The contest, like the last seasons gave fresh young talent an opportunity to showcase their creations on the ramp. The Debut is an extension of Wills Lifestyle’s association and commitment with India’s most prestigious fashion event, Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week. This year the contest received an overwhelming response through more than 340 online registrations and over 150 portfolios from top fashion schools across the country. The finale was judged by an eminent panel comprising of celebrated fashion designers Namrata Joshipura, Nitin Bal Chauhan and Sartaj Mehta,

Head Designer, Wills Lifestyle who evaluated the shortlisted 14 candidates on key parameters of creativity, technicality and commercial viability. Mridul Jacob, the winner received a trophy besides an all expenses paid trip to an International Fashion Fair. The winner was also felicitated at the forthcoming edition of Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week in March 2013.

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RTW|Business of Fashion

Fashion Acclaim

H&M Award won by South Korean designer Miju Kim

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he winner of the 2013 H&M Design Award is Minju Kim, a 26-year-old student at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp. Minju won the chance to present her collection with her own show at the Mercedes-Benz Stockholm Fashion Week, as well as a prize of €50,000. Minju also won the opportunity to develop pieces from her collection to be sold in selected H&M stores this autumn. Minju was chosen by a grand jury which included fashion designer Jonathan Saunders, editor-at-large Tim Blanks, stylist Leith Clark, photographer Sølve Sundsbø, blogger and photographer Hanneli Mustaparta, fashion journalist Kristopher Arden Houser, H&M’s Creative Advisor Margareta van den Bosch, and H&M’s Head of Design Ann-Sofie Johansson. Minju is a designer from South Korea who is now in her final masters year studying fashion at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp. She won the H&M Design Award 2013 with her BA collection titled “Dear My Friend”, inspired by Japanese Manga cartoonist Junji Ito. The inspiration may be fantastical, but the work that went into the collection was incredibly serious. The H&M Design Award judges were impressed by Minju’s determination to make each piece as perfect as she could. When Minju graduates next year, she plans to gain experience through internships at established brands, before setting up a label of her own.


Business of Fashion|RTW

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Market Focus: India

Christian Louboutin opens a store in Mumbai

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he famous shoe designer, Monsieur Christian Louboutin is worldwide celebrated for his signature red-lacquered soles. After his first store that opened in New Delhi at DLF Emporio in 2012, the designer has now launched his second store in Mumbai at Horniman Circle. The two level store showcases his shoe collection for men and women as well

as leather goods. Alongside, the designer also attended the India Design Forum conducted in Mumbai. The designer has worked closely with principal architect Eric Clough to create that look with Indian techniques and culture specific touches such as a wall of wool embroidered wood tiles and leather tiles.


Business of Fashion|RTW Market Focus: India

Luxury store Nuance license at Mumbai airport

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he Nuance Group announced that it has been awarded, in partnership with Shoppers Stop Limited, the Fashion, Luxury and Lifestyle concession at Chhatrapati Shivaji International Airport in Mumbai, India. The concession covers 16 concept stores from leading global premium and luxury brands to be located in the new Terminal 2, with a total of 1’247 square metres of retail space. Commencing on 1st of September 2013, the concession will have a ten year term. Roberto Graziani, President & CEO, The Nuance Group, commented, “We are very pleased to expand our business to Mumbai. Nuance started its operations in India about six years ago, and we have rapidly gained a solid understanding of the region. This new agreement further strengthens our business in India, the market where we are determined to grow our presence.” Govind Shrikhande, Customer Care Associate & M.D, Shoppers Stop Ltd, said “We are delighted to have jointly won this bid for Mumbai International Airport. We are happy to present a Best-in-Class International Luxury experience to all Flyers flying in and out of Mumbai. We are very positive that the unique strengths of Shoppers Stop and The Nuance Group will make this venture a great success.” Anirban Chowdhury, County Manager, The Nuance Group India, commented “The terminal design is very artistic and top class, which will serve as an inspiring environment to our specialty stores. We have done detailed customer interviews across various profiles and proposed brands & concepts to be able to offer a portfolio that appeals to the needs of passengers travelling through this airport. The choice of stores will comprise of a mix of premium and luxury multi- and mono-brand concepts, including our much liked women’s leather accessories store, Atelier.”

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RTW|Business of Fashion

Market Focus: India

French Luxury Company Longchamp eyes India entry

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rench luxury handbag maker Longchamp, which is ranked among the top five luxury brands in the world, is looking to opening an exclusive boutique in India by the end of 2013. Longchamp is searching a potential local retail partner to set up its operations. The company is currently in talks with Franchise India Holdings, which is a franchise and retail solutions providing organization, to look for potential

partners. The brand is currently present in over 100 countries worldwide through 250 exclusive boutiques and 1,000 multibrand outlets. According to management consulting firm, Technopak the Indian retail market, which is pegged at $470 billion, is expected to grow to $675 billion in the next five years with the luxury market itself expected to grow two and a half times its current size to $6.8 billion by 2015.

Market Focus: India

Rajesh Pratap Singh chosen Woolmark’s ambassador for India

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ajesh Pratap Singh, the famous Indian designer has been roped in as the first ever wool ambassador for India by Woolmark, one of the internationally wellknown textile fibre brands. Woolmark helps in highlighting the diverse interpretations of merino wool. “This is the first time we have associated with an Indian designer to come on board as the wool ambassador for India and it is a huge responsibility for Rajesh to promote the fibre in the country,” said Amir Sheikh, Country Manager India, The Woolmark Company. The designer will showcase the collection made by merino wool at the upcoming Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week (WIFW) autumn/winter 2013. The collection will focus on the

journey how people adapted woollen garments and fabrics over the time. “It is indeed an honour to be associated with The Woolmark Company on a national level. I look forward to a long and exciting relationship forward,” said the designer. The collection will retail across various Rajesh Pratap Singh stores in India as well as international multi-brand stores.


Business of Fashion|RTW Market Focus: India

Arvind Ltd. to retail Hanes, Wonderbra in India

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rvind Lifestyle Brands, a subsidiary of Arvind Ltd. has signed a licensing agreement with two of the largest and wellknown global apparel brands the US-based Hanes brands Inc and Wonderbra brands to market and sell basic and intimate apparel. Mr. Sanjay Lalbhai, Chairman & M.D, Arvind Ltd said, “This transaction signals our entry into the highly lucrative market of branded apparel essentials with lingerie and undergarments. This market segment of branded essentials is estimated at over Rs 18,000 crores and is expected to grow over 18 percent year-on-year.” Gerald Evans, Co-Chief Operating Officer, Hanes brands said, “Our Hanes and Wonderbra brands have great growth potential in the branded apparel essentials and lingerie market in India. We are confident that Arvind Lifestyle Brands, which has one of the largest portfolios of licensed US brands in India, is the right partner for us to aggressively expand growth in India.” Arvind plans to increase the current number of Hanes points of sales in India from 5,000 to 15,000 in the next three years. The company has plans to grow the Hanes vertical within Arvind to achieve Rs 500 crores revenues over the next four years.

Market Focus: India

Brooks Brothers to launch second luxury boutique in Gurgaon

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S retailer Brooks Brothers is set to unveil its second luxury boutique in the country in Gurgaon this month, a few weeks after its first 1,800 sq. ft., luxury store opened at Ambience Mall in Vasant Kunj, in New Delhi. Brooks Brothers is one of a clutch of foreign companies entering the 500-billion dollars Indian retail market after the government opened 100 percent FDI in single brand and up to 51 percent in multi-brand retail. According to the company, five stores are expected this year to follow high aspirational Indian customers. After a mall-based store in Chandigarh, company will open stores in the south, a mall-based store in Chennai and freestanding locations in Bangalore and Hyderabad. Brooks Brothers has signed a joint venture with Reliance Brands for the development of the American brand in India, and was one of the first companies to get FDI approval in October 2012. Brooks Brothers is available at 200 stores including the Delhi location outside of the US, and plans to continue to expand globally throughout the year.

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Market Focus: India

Tarun Tahiliani’s second flagship store in Delhi

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ell known Indian designer Tarun Tahiliani opened his second flagship outlet in New Delhi. Located at Defence Colony, the outlet is an amalgamation of traditional and contemporary interiors, synonymous with Tahiliani, best known for his ability to infuse Indian craftsmanship and textile heritage with European tailored silhouettes. The interiors of the store are inspired by ancient heritage homes. It has some of his signature dresses, with accessible price tags. The store is exquisite with ancient Thikri work on ceiling, pearl work at the entrance, pichwais painting at the columns and hand-knotted carpets. The staff’s uniform also has Tahiliani’s signature prints. The collection on offer includes the best from chikankari and concept saris, anarkalis, lehengas, sherwanis, and printed separates. The store also offers Swarovski spangled saris and structured drapes for special occasions and bridal wear for both men and women. The highpoint of the store is the spring/summer 2013 collection starting from Rs 3,999 for ready-to-wear and up to Rs 60,000 for occasion wear. His other stores in India include two in Mumbai and one in Hyderabad.


Business of Fashion|RTW Market Focus: India

Hidesign now opens at Hyderabad

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acked by tremendous response to the brand at airports, India’s leading luxury leather brand, Hidesign is now open at the domestic terminal of the Rajiv Gandhi airport, Hyderabad. Hidesign has always considered retail at airports significant for the development of the brand internationally. The opportunity of interacting with the ideal customer who is well-informed, career oriented, cosmopolitan, appreciates well-made, handcrafted products and is sensitive to ecological issues has encouraged Hidesign to be present at all major airports across India. Hidesign is currently present across India at IGIA, where the brand is ranked among the top five best performing brands, Cochin International airport, Shivaji International airport at Mumbai and the even the international terminal of the Hyderabad airport. The brand’s store at Hyderabad airport is the largest exclusive store in the country that the it has opened so far apart from its level flagship store in Pondicherry, spanning approx. 1000 sq. feet. Along with the complete product range, the new store displays Hidesign’s recently launched luxury collection, ‘Alberto Ciaschini- handcrafted by Hidesign’. The leather collection includes handbags, clutches, briefcases, wallets, laptop cases, belts and garments.

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Market Focus: India

Samant Chauhan launched his store in Delhi and Patna

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amous for simple, basic, clean-cut, natural, functional, and contemporary style, ace designer, Samand Chauhan has opened his stores in Delhi and Patna. Designer Samant Chauhan launched his first ever store called ‘Studio D4’ at Defence Colony, New Delhi. The store stocks Chauhan’s Rajputana collection, which has leather, metal and silk accessories as the main component, and would be later followed by luxe home-furnishing and handloom denim. Patna being technically the first designer stand alone store in Bihar’s capital, host Samant Chauhan’s Rajputana collection exclusively for both men and women with the fresh range of leather, metal and silk accessories and later, spreading its wings to his luxe home-furnishing and handloom denim line. A NIFT alumni, Samant Chauhan hails from a village near Bhagalpur in Bihar and foresees tremendous growth and demand in fashion and lifestyle in Tier-II, III cities. Known for his luxury prêt collection, using traditional Bhagalpuri hand woven silk, Chauhan’s work has reached out to the global market. His label, Samant Chauhan, is available at multi-designer stores across India and abroad.

Market Focus: India

Narendra Kumar ties with Raro

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he leading Indian menswear designer, Narendra Kumar with his recent collaboration with Raro, has taken men’s couture to Pune, offering his personal consultations enabling a tête-à-tête with the customers to create bespoke fashion. As a personal stylist at Raro, the designer aims to create an enigmatic experience for the clients where one can discuss their ideas with the designer over wine, probably try out a few classic cigars and browse through an assortment of luxe brands that the store hosts. This association, for the designer, will entail weekly travel to Pune for this one on one consultation.


Business of Fashion|RTW Market Market:Focus: EuropeIndia

Marks & Spencer’s sustainable learning store in Delhi receives Platinum rating by Leed

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arks & Spencer South Extension, the retailer’s first high street sustainable learning store in India, has been awarded the highest rating of Platinum in the LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) green building certification programme. Opened in February 2012, the 20,000 sq ft store hosts a range of sustainable construction and design features to reduce energy usage and waste – as part of M&S’ drive to become the world’s most sustainable major retailer by 2015. M&S South Extension is the first retail outlet in India to be awarded the prestigious Platinum rating by LEED, which is an internationally renowned benchmark for design, construction and operation of high performance green buildings. Venu Nair, Managing Director for Marks & Spencer Reliance India, said: “We’re really proud to be the first retailer in the country to be awarded the Platinum rating from LEED – marking an important milestone on our sustainability journey in India. Our South Extension store not only helps the environment but also provides us with valuable insight into sustainable building practices in India, which we’re using to support future projects in the country.” The sustainable features include: • Heat transmitting glass helping to maintain in-store temperatures and cut UV ray penetration by 90%; • Solar reflective tiles that keep the store cool; • Use of ENERGY STAR certified equipment;

• Energy meters to monitor the store’s energy performance; • Rain water harvesting; • Dedicated recycling bins; • The use of rapidly renewable raw materials, such as engineered wood.

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Market Focus: Middle East

Qatari investors to buy 100% of Printemps

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group of Qatari investors is posed to be the most likely new owner of French department store Printemps, after they presented them with an offer reportedly being up to 2 billion euros. Direct competitor Galeries Lafayette has also approached Printemps owners. Printemps is currently 70% owned by Deutsche Bank real estate investment unit RREEF and 30% by the Borletti Group, which is headed by Italian businessman Maurizio Borletti. According to Reuters, Borletti and RREEF had been talking to Qatari investors about selling Printemps to investors for circa 2 billion euro. The deal would be executed by Qatar Holding through its Luxembourg-registered Divine Investments (Disa), the operating arm of the nation’s sovereign fund Qatar Investment Authority. Divine’s offer for Printemps includes a seven-year management contract with Borletti Management Group (BMG). It centres on “the provision of advice of a strategic and operational nature regarding the implementation of the business plan,” the official documents said. Terms of the contract were not disclosed, but according to sources close to the matter, BMG’s management fee would be equal to 1 percent of Printemps’s revenues. Details of the Qatari proposal were presented to Printemps’ works council last week, as part of a plan to complete the deal by end-July, ‘Le Figaro’ revealed. “We are not worried about the Qatari investors because the Qataris own Harrods and continue to deliver service principally through their employees to customers,” said Georges Das Neves, secretary-general of the Unsa Printemps trade union. The present Printemps management team is also set to remain in place, including CEO Paolo de Cesare. Borletti will remain initially as an advisor. The purchase of Printemps would expand Qatar Holding portfolio of high-end investments, including its purchase of Harrods, acquisition of Valentino and stakes in LVHM and Porsche. Borletti and RREEF bought Printemps in 2006 from French luxury group PPR for 1.1 billion euros. Printemps now has 16 stores and employs about 4,000. Its 201112 turnover rose 13 percent to 1.45 billion euros.


Business of Fashion|RTW Market Focus: Americas

Zegna opens in Los Angeles first mono-brand store of its ZZEGNA line in the U.S.

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talian luxury menswear house Ermenegildo Zegna opened this week its first stand alone in the U.S. dedicated to its ZZegna line. The new ZZegna mono-brand store is situated within the Beverly Hills Centre Mall in Los Angeles. Also this week, ZZegna’s creative director, Paul Surridge, presented the ZZegna Fall Winter 2013-14 collection at the Zegna showroom in New York, on Fifth Avenue. The Z Zegna line is the younger, more innovative line of Zegna, the house planning to open more stand alone stores around the world.

Market Focus: Americas

Canali opens second New York boutique

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anali officially opened its first New York flagship store on April 13th at 625 Madison Avenue, one of the Big Apple’s chicest addresses. The store joins the Broad Street boutique in New York, which is located in the heart of the Financial

District. The two-story, over 500 sqm space, is an elegant and sophisticated setting, designed around a modern architectural concept with references to the brand’s renewed visual identity. The exterior features the Canali logo: two small diamonds that intersect into infinity, alluding to the infinite stitches used to transform a Canali suit from conception to reality. Inside, care was taken to even the tiniest detail to enhance the collection and customer experience. Fine materials in contrasting colors including grey stone, georgette silk and dark walnut wood, with the addition of shades of

grey and warm-toned crystal glass, welcome clients into a distinctive and authoritative setting permeated by Italian savoir faire. A crystal glass elevator and a marble staircase, which seems suspended in mid air, accompany clients through an elegant environment including floors and walls made by “Avola stone”. This celebration of elegance on the Upper East Side is enriched through exclusive products such as crocodile shoes, a VIP room reserved for private shopping, and the “Made to Measure” service.

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Market Focus: China

Largest Nike action sports store in Beijing

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ike, the famous sports brand opened its first action sports-specific store in Beijing on January 29, 2013. The store is located on the fifth floor of Joy City shopping center in the Xidan district, the heart of the city’s skateboarding community. At 110 square meters, it’s Nike’s largest action sports store in Greater China. Shoppers will find a full range of the latest Nike action sports footwear and apparel. The store mixes unique, artistic elements as well as cultural influences from the city itself to create an authentic, inviting space for the skate community. A table with tools is available for customers to fix their boards, and videos and photos help bring the sport to life throughout the store. Famed Beijing graffiti artist Li Qiuqiu created a unique painting in the store inspired by Nike SB athletes Koston, Paul Rodriguez, Omar Salazar and Che Lin. Brick walls and graffiti manhole covers add strong local flavor to the modern space. “Skateboarding is growing quickly in China, and there are many fans of the sport in the Xidan area,” said Jason Zhu, GM, Nike Action Sports in Greater China. “We chose this location to be closer to the skate communities. Many top athletes are already fans of Nike Skateboarding, and the new store will continue to bring Chinese skaters the most advanced products and best services available.”


Business of Fashion|RTW Market Focus: China

Dior Show in Shanghai

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ior hosted a catwalk show of its Spring 2013 Haute Couture collection, the first by its new Creative Director Raf Simons, in Shanghai on March 30. The catwalk show gathered 300 of the elite Chinese, followed by an exclusive gala dinner. The event took place at No. 5 on the Bund, which is the first by a major fashion house this year. Chanel will be hosting its exclusive catwalk show of the Fall Winter 2013 collection in Singapore, in May.

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Market Focus: China

International Luxury Travel Market, Asia

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uxury travel buyers and agents from across the Asia Pacific will be meeting at the 7th edition of International Luxury Travel Market (ILTM) Asia in Shanghai in June 2013 to view almost 500 of the latest travel experiences from 70 countries across the world and exclusively identifying next year’s travel trends for their clients. The World Tourism Organisation recently reported that Asia still leads the world in global tourism. China has also revealed double-digit growth in outbound travel in 2012 making a record 83 million trips abroad, 20% more than in 2011. They also spent more abroad with a 42% increase from 2011 and a five-fold increase from a decade earlier. The demand for a greater choice in elite travel from across Asia has encouraged a diverse range of international exhibitors at the forthcoming ILTM Asia 2013. Cruise continues to grow in representation at the event with niche specialist exhibitors offering exclusive icebreaker cruises. Founded on a strict qualification process for both buyers and exhibitors, the invitation only ILTM Asia 2013 will be hosting buyers from across Asia including Hong Kong, China, Taiwan, Japan, India, Singapore, Malaysia, Korea, Indonesia and Australia. Business appointments are pre-scheduled, matching mutual requests from buyers and exhibitors alike to meet on a strict oneto-one ratio to build relationships and business communities.


Business of Fashion|RTW Market Focus: China

Marc Jacob’s China Expansion

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he American luxury fashion label Marc Jacobs is now looking at opening five stores per annum in China over the next few years to overtake sales in Japan and make the Chinese mainland its biggest foreign market. Bertrand Stalla-Bourdillon, CEO of Marc Jacobs, said “Marketing and promotion budgets for China will be tripled to further promote the company, focusing on first-tier cities such as Shanghai and Beijing.” Marc Jacobs has 25 stores on the mainland and 13 in Hong Kong. Japan has been the bran’s no. 1 foreign country market so far. Marc Jacobs also plans to add three to five new stores over the next five years in Hong Kong, a top shopping destination for mainland travellers, he said. Currently Marc Jacobs has 25 stores on the mainland and 13 in Hong Kong.

Market Focus: Europe

Pitti Immagine announces its Guest Designers

Damir Doma

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Junichi Abe

esigner Junichi Abe of the Japanese brand, Kolor has been announced the menswear guest at Pitti Immagine Uomo 84 and Paris based Damir Doma will be the womenswear guest at Pitti W 12. The Pitti events are scheduled to take place in Florence, from June 18 to 21. “Kolor and Damir Doma represent two very different stories and cultures,” commented Lapo Cianchi, Director of Communication and Events at Pitti Immagine, “but in our opinion, they share the same determination for developing their brands and building a strong business experience based on a very precise, personal and creative inspiration that does

not follow mainstream fashion trends.” Over the past few seasons, Kolor’s classic, distinct fluidity and lightness have developed into a mature brand that is more structured, revisiting the heart and soul of men’s wardrobes with smartness, humor and strictness, while Damir Doma’s austerity and clean lines have paved the way for a new, more colorful and approachable energy that speaks to the daily lives of women everywhere. Pitti Immagine has found that a strong, initial aesthetic and cultural background continues to reflect on a fashion designer’s creative development even as the designers prepare their brands to enter into the market. Cianchi explained, “We also know how much both designers want to work with everything that the city of Florence has to offer and this season they will present two site-specific projects centered on the new spring/summer collection by Kolor and resort by Damir Doma.”

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Market Focus: India

International Woolmark Prize

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fter a successful re-launch of the prize in 2012, The Woolmark Company has once again announced the second year of what has quickly become, one of the world’s most coveted awards in fashion. Five regional awards will be held in Asia, Australia, Europe, India (& Middle East) and USA. The winner from each region will receive a $50,000 financial contribution towards their next collection as well as an invitation to participate in the international final to be held in Milan in February 2014. The Indian region nominees for the 2013/14 International Woolmark Prize are: 11.11 by CellDSGN, Alpana and Neeraj, Amit Aggarwal, Aneeth Arora, Dev and Nil and Rahul Mishra from India and Feeha Jamshed, Lara Khoury, Madiyah Al Sharqi and Marina Qureshi from Pakistan and Middle East. The Woolmark Company is supported by Fashion Design Council of India, Pakistan Fashion Design Council, Dubai Fashion Week and Starch Foundation of Lebanon as official nominating bodies for above nominations. Globally the award has been supported by key fashion councils including the Council of Fashion Designers America, British Fashion Council, Chambre Syndicale De La Couture, Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid and Premsela Foundation. The India regional award will be held on 20 June 2013 where the designers are required to present sketches of a Merino wool capsule collection comprising of 6 outfits with one full outfit to be produced. The collections will be judged by a panel of local and international experts soon to be announced. The media briefing was held at Australian High Commission, New Delhi to announce the names of nominated designers. Australian High Commissioner to India, H.E Patrick Suckling said that “India is the second largest market for Australian

wool and I am delighted that Indian designers are participating in the International Woolmark Prize. Through this prize, a group of emerging designers will get the chance to display their creativity with a fantastic natural Australian product. I look forward to seeing the results.”

Christian Wijnants, the winner of the 2013 International Woolmark Prize

From (L- R ) Simon Locks, Natalie Suckling, H.E.Patrick Suckling, Rahul Mishra, Dev and Nil, Amit Aggarwal, Alpana and Neeraj, Sunil Sethi, Smitha, Amir Sheikh


Market Focus: India

Exploring the regional textile traditions of Jamdani and Bandhani…

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1.11 by CELLDSGN is an India based brand that has been showcasing fashion with handcrafted designs, highlighted with individuality and aesthetics along with a strong personality and expression. Catering to a fashion forward audience, the brand reinforces the idea of shapes, juxtaposed with structural and androgynous detailing that accentuates the feminine form. The brand’s S/S 2013 collection has been crafted beautifully with traditional Indian textile craft methods, specifically from Kutch, the desert land in Gujarat. Highlighting the essence of the place’s environment and heritage, the brand combines different techniques and explores the regional textile traditions of Jamdani and Bandhani, fusing them with the abstract printing and dyeing technique of marbling on silks and khadi, refining the rhythm of the collection to a contemporary tone. 11.11 by CELLDSGN was launched by Shani Himanshu and Smita Singh Rathore in 2005.


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Textiles

Woolmark’s Seminar on Wool

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ustralia based The Woolmark Company organized a seminar in New Delhi on Merino Wool and its Versatility and Luxury where industry leaders shared their knowledge and thoughts on the potential of premium and luxury wear market in India where fine wool plays a vital role. The objective of the program was to bring eminent industry leaders on a common platform and enlighten the industry with the looming opportunity in Indian luxury market in order to find out challenges and guide them to address the same. In India, the woollen Industry is an important industry representing small, medium and large scale units, however, the apparel industry has been importing wool from Australia for manufacturing of fine suiting fabrics, knitwear, scarves, stoles, etc. India is now the second largest importer of Australian Merino wool. Post the FDI policy changes in India,

the Indian luxury and super premium apparel market is expected to grow at a 30% CAGR. According to industry experts and major retailers, the growth is driven by demand amongst the growing number of aspirational consumers and penetration by foreign luxury branded goods. Mr. Amir Sheikh, Country Manager India said, “I am glad that industry leaders have come together on this platform to share their thoughts which are likely to enlighten the vision of wool industry to tap inevitable growth in premium and luxury market. We are committed to bring innovation and improve quality standard to cater to this segment.” Ms. Slava Zeman, Counsellor, Australian High Commission said, “it is a great pleasure to be involved in this seminar. India is a highly valued wool export market for Australia. We have seen our two-way agricultural

trade grow over the years. Our trade is assisted by the close ties that are being forged between our two countries through initiatives such as the Australia-India memorandum of understanding on cooperation in the field of wool and woollen products. We look forward to continuing the valuable relationship and to future opportunities for co-operation and trade between India and Australia.” Mr. Amit Jain, Director, Shingora Textiles Limited explicitly shared his thoughts on woollen accessories potential in Indian market mentioning, “we have plans to tie up with leading luxury retailers to cater to the demand of high end consumers as well. We are already retailing in high fashion European market for some time now”. Mr. Sheikh further adds, “There are challenges in the current scenario but future is full of opportunities where consumers aspiration will be fulfilled by luxury players in the market”.


Business of Fashion|RTW Textiles

INVISTA’s recently held event, LYCRA RENDEZVOUS delivering benefits within the Denim industry

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nvista, the leading fiber and fabric innovator in textile industry space concluded the second edition of its conclave, Lycra Rendezvous at the Taj Palace, New Delhi on recently. The event witnessed leading mills and brands from the textile and apparel industry such as Vardhaman, Banswara Syntex, Arvind Limited - Denim, Mafatlal Denim etc. The conclave saw insightful discussions, product showcases by Invista’s key customers, launch of its

consumer needs and come up with innovative ways to spark the industry’s growth. We received a fantastic response from our customers and representatives of the industry reiterating the success of the event that brought together the entire value chain together.” Vijay Punyani, Senior Vice President, Vardhaman Textiles Ltd. - one of Invista’s most trusted partners in South Asia said, “With the passage of time,

latest innovation Lycra T166L fiber, unveiling of ARVIND Stretch Denim powered by Lycra fibre and a denim fashion show. The company also showcased its global denim concept collection for Spring/Summer 2014. The collection encompassed innovative garments highlighting the brand’s key technologies for denim. Mr. Andrew Evans, Managing Director South Asia, Invista said, “Innovation is the mantra to enable the denim industry to progress and constantly devise solutions that cater to varying consumer needs. At this event, our endeavour was to provide a platform to the denim industry to delve deep into the consumer psyche, identify

the demand of stretch fabric in the market has increased significantly and so has the demand for Lycra fiber products. We are currently working with wonderful innovations from Invista’s product portfolio. Nearly 70% of our total cores spun yarn is used for denims for which we have received a fantastic feedback. With our orders growing substantially we look forward to further strengthening our long-standing relationship with the company.” Ravi Toshniwal, Managing Director, Banswara Syntex said, “We have been working closely with the company for the last 14 years on technical collaborations and new product developments for yarns and fabrics with

various Lycra fibres. We highly value the partnership since it has enabled us to differentiate our offerings and deliver many firsts in the Indian textile market. We look forward to an exciting journey together for years to come.” Arvind Denim launched its latest range of stretch fabrics powered by Lycra fibre, bringing INVISTA’s best of textile innovations together with the denim fabric making expertise of its company. Aamir Akhtar, CEO, Arvind Limited, Denim said, “The Lycra fibre brand has delivered multiple breakthroughs over the years through continuous investment in innovations and conquered new frontiers in comfort, fit, functionality and consumer concepts. As the pioneer of innovation Invista has contributed to the growth of the Indian textile and apparel industry that is currently growing at a healthy double digit growth of 14-15%. Taking forward our association, we are delighted to present the new generation of stretch fabrics with LYCRA® fibre that take comfort, style and stretch technology to another level.” Elaborating on the future of the stretch denim industry in India he further added, “The Indian denim market is primarily dominated by men as they are 80% of our consumer base. However, as noticed in the recent years, the attraction of stretch denims is bringing more and more women in the target group.” The conclave also brought to the forefront challenges and opportunities that the textile and apparel industry is facing currently. The trends and future of the garment industry in countries like Sri Lanka, Cambodia and Vietnam were also discussed at length. Highlighting the ardent need for technological advancement and finesse in fibre processing, the speakers also elaborated on different ways of catering to the evolving consumer needs and demands reiterating the importance of innovation in the textile industry space.

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Parsons, The New Design School

Parsons 2013 Fashion Benefit Parsons The New School for Design held its annual Fashion Benefit on May 22, 2013, at Pier Sixty, Chelsea Piers. The event honoured Bonnie Brooks and Parsons alumni Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler for their contributions to Parsons, the fashion industry, and philanthropy. Funds raised at the event will be used for scholarships to Parsons, a global leader in art and design education...

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he benefit, now in its 65th year, has honoured fashion innovators including Donna Karan, Reed Krakoff, Francisco Costa, Diane von Furstenberg, and Marc Jacobs. Highlights of the Fashion Benefit were the runway show of select collections by graduating students and the naming of the Designers of the Year. At a benefit following the runway show, Harim Jung and Kaye Applewaite were named womenswear designers of the year; Yunxiang Sharon Zhou was named menswear designer of the year; and Diana Woodside was named childrenswear designer of the year. Parsons alumnus Patrick Robinson hosted the event.

Jung Ryun Lee

Myung Jin

Parsons Executive De


Harim Jung

ean Joel Towers

Kaye Applewaite

Yunxiang Sharon Zhou

San Pham

Diana Flavio Woodside


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RTW|Fashion Shows & Trade Fairs

India Fashion Week

Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week With a host of imaginative concepts, textile offerings and fabric ornamentations, the Wills Lifestyle India Fashion is a definite fashion highlight to get excited about in India….

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he Grand Finale by Manish Arora inspired by the legendary ‘Burning Man festival’ concluded the Autumn Winter edition of Asia’s premiere fashion & trade event Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week in New Delhi at Pragati Maidan. The presentation marking a successful collaboration between Manish Arora and Wills Lifestyle featured a striking amalgamation of futuristic designs and elegant showmanship. WIFW hosted a record number of press, buyers and industry influencers from around world. The audience comprised of industry experts was enthusiastic about the Autumn/Winter 2013 Collections presented at the week. Delhi’s reputation as the destination for fashion’s future continues as FDCI, the apex fashion council of India successfully provides a platform for both, the established as well as the emerging designers to showcase their new season to an audience of fashion insiders.

24 year old Masaba Gupta kick started the fashion week, showcasing her first collection for Satya Paul. Masaba was recently appointed the Fashion Director for Satya Paul by Genesis Colors, its parent company. With a spectacular participation of 123 designers from a mix of leading, as well as upcoming designers from all over the country, New Delhi saw innovative themes and out-of-the-box conceptualizations through 32 splendid shows. FDCI in association with Pearl Academy launched ‘A World of Career Opportunities in Art Design Fashion’, a book on Careers in the Creative Industries entailing 30 different career options categorised under four heads – Art, Fashion, Design and Business of Fashion & Design. The book was unveiled by Mr. Sunil Sethi, President, FDCI, Mr. Nikhil Mehra, an alumnus of Pearl Academy and a renowned fashion designer and Mr. Sharad Mehra, CEO, Pearl Academy.


Manish Arora

Abraham & Thakore

Book Launch

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t the launch Mr. Sunil Sethi, President, FDCI said, “We should emphasize on the growing need of skilled professionals in the creative business. The possibilities are huge provided the aspiring candidates are guided well. This book is an apt guide to have an overview of the career avenues in the creative industries. It is important for the youngsters to understand the right path to make it big in the industry. I wish them the very best for the book and hope it is a great success. ” Enlightening more on the book, Mr. Sharad Mehra, CEO, Pearl Academy, said, “Attracting the best available talent to fashion industry is a great challenge. For the industry to grow and make an impact nationally new ideas and freshness of thought is a must. If we can get the right talent we can transform the fashion scene. The biggest challenge that we face in getting quality students is reluctance on the part of parents to allow their children to pursue a career in this field which is largely due to them not having enough knowledge about the industry and the varied options that are available. Often a creative career is seen as ‘frivolous and less serious’. This book is an attempt on our part to make a change here. We want to bring out the world of opportunities and open up interesting career possibilities for the hidden creative talent of this country.” “As we did the research for the book talking to the industry, alumni and other stake holders we ourselves were amazed by the options that are available in creative fields and they are expanding at a rapid pace and the onus is on forward looking institutes like Pearl to prepare professionals for these new careers.”, added further Mr. Mehra.


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India Fashion Week

Lakmé Fashion Week Offering Indian fashion to the world, Lakmé Fashion Week brings a mix of the expected urban Indian design aesthetic with edgy upcoming labels, elegant evening-wear and plenty more in between…

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akmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2013 concluded on a high note with excellent business volumes, huge commercial interest, fantastic media response and an all of satisfaction among stakeholders. Participation season as well. The season saw a stupendous 28000 visitors registered, an increase of 12% over the previous season. Commercial interests were notably strong, with 219 buyer registrations ( 44 international & 175 national buyers), a season on season growth of 21%. The Source, the exhibition area became the centre of commercial activity at LFW this season. The Grand Finale for Lakmé Fashion Week was presented by the ace designer, Namrata Joshipura. Her “Pop Tint” collection showcased modern dresses, sexy shorts, soft summer blazers with narrow notched lapels and two-button closures. Inspired by the Lakmé Absolute range for Summer/Resort 2013, the colours played the leading role with acid yellow, orange, neon pink, white, neutrals and splashes of gold and sequins lighting up the catwalk. Gaurang Shah, Shruti Sancheti, David Syiem & Purvi Doshi showcased exclusive ensembles for the Indian Textiles Show. Gaurang, the Hyderabad based designer, teamed up the splendour of Rajasthan with the textures

Naeem Khan


Gaurang Shah

Namrata Joshipura

Ryindia by Daniel Syiem

Shruti Sancheti

of Utter Pradesh, in 400 count fine pure cotton Kota fabrics, Mughal buttis woven in Jamdani and Kota Tussar with geometric designs. Shruti’s Swadeshi collection was inspired by the Indian Independence movement, she revived the dyeing art of indigenous weaving of Kantha with the help of the Maharashtra Weavers Board. David Syiem showcased beautiful textiles of Meghalaya while Purvi Doshi’s “Sanrakshan” collection was a strong fashionable reminder that plants and animals are needed to keep the human race alive. The special off site Show was held by Tarun Tahiliani who created an evening of style and fashion for an elite audience in a show on the grounds of Tote on the Turf, Mahalaxmi Race Course, Mumbai. The highlight of the Fashion Week was the fashion presentation of the internationally renowned designer, Naeem Khan who dazzled the audience with his ultra-glam collection on day two. Naeem is known today as the creator of dream outfits for the Red Carpet walk and couturier to Hollywood beauties, royalty and first Lady Michelle Obama.


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Mercedes Benz Australia Fashion Week

Sydney’s Bright Young Things Australia’s established and emerging design talents make their debut at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Australia Spring Summer 2013/14 collections…

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ustralian brother and sister designers, Camilla and Marc Freeman kicked off the fashion week proceedings by showcasing a sun-drenched lifestyle made of refined body conscious clothes, imprinted with Australian chic. Leopard-print bustiers, cobwebby sheer black lace and drop crotch trousers in the wrong hands could be too much to handle. but this sibling duo showed why they’ve enjoyed 10 years in business with an assured collection that got a lot of the Aussie bloggers and babes ready to make their summer order. One of the most interesting collections was offered by Romance was Born, a cult label, designed by Luke Sales and Anna Plunkett. With 70s print, Disney references and fancy silhouettes alongside the eye catching sugar art installation by Pip & Pop, the brand’s theatrics received a lot of cheers at the week. Dion Lee, who has already won international acclaim for competing at the International Woolmark Prize, presented a collection of Sculpted

Camilla

Camilla

Jamie Akshar Photo by Stefa


Camilla & marc

an Gosatti of Getty Images

Romance was born

Dion Lee

metal, structured pleating, sonic wave sequin formations alongside immaculate tailoring skills.The final day of MercedesBenz Fashion Week Australia kicked off with a bang with the highly anticipated New Gen show, showcasing Australia’s best young designers presenting their brand new collections for the very first time. Jamie Ashkar made an impact with his minimalist style offering, whilst rising star Tristan Melle’s exceptional womenswear collection gained the designer a legion of new fans. Eveningwear label Zhivago’s tailored separates, day dresses and show stopping gowns were well received by both media and consumers alike. Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Australia 2013 also saw the emerging talents of young students from design schools Raffles take to the runway with resounding success, and fellow design institute TAFE: The Innovators today matched their achievements as they presented collections from their most talented

Vanishing Elephants students to a global audience. Young protégé Emma Mulholland, who appeared in the group TAFE shows in 2011 and has gone on to dress high profile celebrities such as Kanye West, made her debut solo presentation and showcased an eclectic mix of both mens and womenswear. A number of established designers also made their debut this season in the individual shows, including cult indie label Vanishing Elephant and Kahlo, designed by close friends Rachelle Sinclair and Fay Ogunbadejo. The international buyers included brands such as ShopBop, Matches and Neta-Porter, placing orders for Australia’s fashion finest. Over all, the Australian fashion extravaganza has gained increasing prominence with the major retailers across the globe. IMG, the organizers welcomed nearly 2,000 delegates to watch the 66 established and emerging designers presenting 52 shows.


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Mercedes Benz Madrid Fashion Week

The world of Spanish Fashion Design & its creative diversity... Organised by IFEMA, the event staged its 57th edition from 18th to 22nd February at Feria de Madrid, with more than 40,000 People visiting the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid‌

Maria Barros


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oasting of a strong involvement and commitment of outstanding sponsoring brands belonging to different sectors, the edition brought together some 42 designers, who presented their collections on the catwalk, together with 20 up-andcoming designers who exhibited their ideas at the Showroom featuring direct sale to members of the public. More than 300 exhibitors and 600 brands took part at the fair ’s 60th staging, featuring a range of new ideas for A/W 2013-14. The IFEMA Fashion Showrooms brought together more than 100 Spanish and foreign brands from the medium high fashion segment. There was an important international dimension based on the presence of a total of 190 companies including a number of renowned brands from the USA, Canada and India. However, France, Portugal, Italy and Germany were the most strongly represented European countries at the fair.


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Roberto Verino A New Award for Younger Designers at EGO MBFWM sponsors marked the commencement of collaboration promoted by the different fashion shows throughout the world aimed at presenting a prize to the best young designer at the EGO Forum, complete with international promotional measures. The first edition of this new prize, known as the Mercedes Benz-Fashion Talent Award, went to the Valencian designer, Pepa Salazar, who will have the opportunity to present her collection next season at Fashion Week in Mexico.

Maya Hansen Similarly, next September, a young foreign designer who has been granted this award in another country will present a fashion show as part of the EGO Programme, alongside other up-andcoming talents from Spain. Juan Duyos was chosen for the L’Oreal Paris Award for Best Collection at this edition. EGO Showroom The EGO Showroom also presented some new developments. The original idea on which this section has been based in recent years also evolved somewhat at this edition. In this respect,

Juana Martin this space not only featured a new decorative approach and layout design, but also presented an exhibition that focused exclusively on the presentation and sale to members of the general public of a series of clothing collections by twenty designers. The work of these creators was chosen for its originality and its contribution to the current fashion scene. In addition, MBFWM February 2013 featured an Off-Site Programme, including three fashion shows by designers at different venues throughout Madrid.


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Moises Nieto

Maya Hansen

Roberto Verino

Maya Hansen

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Fashion Shows & Trade Fairs|RTW Mercedes Benz Russia Fashion Week

The Russian Renaissance in Fashion The country’s fashion industry was expected to turn over £30bn in 2012, which would put annual growth at around 10 per cent. In 2013, the country represents the largest retail market and the fastest growing economy in Europe. The Soviet modesty is replaced with a notion of luxury wealth that Russians consider their new ideology…

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here is a phenomenon happening in the Russian market as it has shifted from local to global. Today, this phenomenon has manifested itself in the market in a variety of ways. Russia’s consumer boom has brought new shopping opportunities for the Russian cities; there are malls and shopping centres with world famous fashion brands presented in the major Russian cities and towns providing offers for everyone’s taste and budget. With almost 70 years of nothing available in the country, today the Russians have huge money from oil, and there is a huge interest in fashion. As the market is growing and tastes are developing, Russian designers are becoming bolder in their ideas. Today, Russia is considered to be a very attractive fashion market with a great demand for the luxurious segment. However, Russian fashion industry is mostly based on import with its retail market being the largest one in Eastern Europe. Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia From March 29 to April 2, Moscow hosted the 26th Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia. More than 70 designers from Russia, Ukraine, Belarus, Georgia, the Great Britain and Spain presented their A/W 2013-

14 collections at the new main venue of the Fashion Week. The numerous works showcased of Russian designers at the fashion week were distinguished by the elegance and grace as well as the creative methods and colour solutions they used to find out more opportunities to satisfy the demand of the contemporary society. La Conference: Luxe & Digital The Fashion Week was also marked by the annual international conference on using digital technologies in the luxury goods industry La Conference Luxe&Digital, organized jointly with HUBFORUM. The event has become an annual event bringing together professionals in the field of communications, marketing, fashion and luxury brands to exchange ideas and experiences. Participants of the conference discussed Europe’s most interesting experiences in expanding the market of luxury brands and goods by means of digital environment. As a place for the exchange of views on the development of digital media and discussing the most interesting experience and achievements in the luxury goods industry, digital segment of Russian luxury goods market was also presented in a special review.

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Enteley Ru Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia hand-picked designers will present their collections at White Gallery in Rome Located in the Palace of Modern Art in Rome, White Gallery offers a new concept of multibrand with objectivity as the main principle. White Gallery reproduces the entire image of a modern lifestyle by means of carefully selected design objects – clothes, interior goods, perfumery. Here one can see the world’s top brands at the same time: Balmain, Thierry Mugler, Azzedine Alaïa, Céline, Dior Homme, Giorgio Armani, Givenchy, Missoni, Valentino, Versace, Yohji

Enteley Ru Yamamoto, Chloé, Nina Ricci, Rick Owens. Laura Fuso, fashion director of online project Design42Day, as the guest of honour., had an important mission to choose three collections presented at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia FallWinter/2013-2014 to be displayed at the famous White Gallery in Rome. Russian fashion designers selected during the fashion week are expected to appearing at White Gallery in Rome. The main selection criteria for Russian designers in White Gallery were original ideas, consistency, good quality and fair prices. An opportunity to showcase at White

Svetlana Tegin Gallery can become an important step in careers of 3 lucky-selected Russian designers. Russia also hosted a 5-day screening of fashion films presented by NYFFF (New York Fashion Film Festival). Biggest fashion week in Eastern Europe, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia received more than 45.000 attendees this season and all fashion week guests were able to watch fashion-inspired works of Roman Polanski, Ryan McGinley, Steven Meisel and others. All NYFFF fashion films were demonstrated on the 550 sq. feet video wall installed in the fashion week’s main lobby.


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Spinexpo, Shanghai

A Global Offer for Fibres, Yarns, Knitwear & Technical Textiles…

Exhibiting an unprecedented level of energy, sophistication, and satisfaction on the part of the visitors as well as the exhibitors, The 21st edition of the event was held in Shanghai’s World Expo Exhibition & Convention Centre during March 12 to 14, 2013.

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0 560 designers, buyers, and decision makers from both international and regional brands and manufacturers attended the fair to collaborate with the 180 exhibitors from 15 countries. The attendance at the show has maintained stability, with a slight increase, session after session. Overseas visitors amounted

to 26%, with 513 visitors from Japan, 437 from Hong Kong; Visitors from China showed a spectacular increase of Beijing/ North China, which doubled compared to the September session. Overall, the show underlined the direction towards better knitwear and style with a very focused high quality showcase. As per Karine Van Tassel, founder and organizer of the event, the fair has managed to combine European heritage with the Asian future. She explains that “China and the countries of Southeast Asia are changing rapidly; spinners are investing in design and hiring European designers, and knitters are becoming overseas designer manufacturers rather than just exporters. Our spinners from Europe and South America find themselves perfectly well-fit within this new level of sophistication.” Ms. Van Tassel also announced the launch of a new Spinexpo office for Southeast Asia, to be based in Bali.

The creation of a new customs system between the ten countries of the Association of Southeast Asian Nations (ASEAN) is expected to offer opportunities for the region’s clothing and textile industry. The Trend Forum AT SPINEXPO Entitled “Evolutions,” the trend display created a succession of ambiences organized in tonal colour families and pop-up trends. Yarns were provided by the exhibiting spinners and interpreted by Ms. Sophie Steller, the creative director of the event, with garments realized by knitwear manufacturers such as Brilliant Global, Shanghai Xinnuo, and Shenzhen Meilian. Italian yarns Pavillion Spinexpo also welcomed a group of 18 exhibitors from Italy, who exhibited under the banner of “Italian Yarns of Excellence”, complementing the offer of the other 6 regular Italian Companies,


strengthening the presence of European spinners at the show. focus on fibres In addition to the General Forum, a marketing area offered further inspiration via yarns and knitdowns provided by the exhibitors, with a special display devoted to mohair and alpaca fibres. A collaboration with Nottingham Trent University resulted in an inspiring collection of student designs rendered in yarns from participating spinners; and an ethereal collection from NTU’s recent Lace:here:now exhibition contemplated new ideas for the manipulation of yarns and fibres. Launch of the nEw knitwear pavilion The new Knitwear Pavilion was launched which incorporated knitwear trends for S/S 2014 and colour of the season by WGSN. Featuring 14 leading creative knitwear manufacturers from China, Hong Kong and Indonesia,

the new pavilion also showcased a digital presentation and workshop/ seminar about knitwear shape and fabric direction for SS 2014 showing inspiration, catwalk trends and new emerging market trends. The pavilion was dedicated to the leading manufacturers and designers of knitwear and presented Spinexpo’s new stand concept with an emphasis on style and fashion. The Knitwear Pavilion will also be an important part of the upcoming New York edition of Spinexpo, which will include a special collaboration with machine and software provider Shima Seiki. The 5th edition of Spinexpo New York will take place July 16-18 at the Metropolitan Pavilion, featuring a new look and stand concept, along with fibres, yarns, knitwear, wovens, and trends for Autumn/Winter 2014-15.


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SpinExpo Fashion Trends S/S 2014 SPINEXPO has absorbed and responded to today’s lifestyle movement to show an evolution of colours through their tonal families, each reflecting an aspect of this new era for 2014.

Of Natures Yellows… A youthful renewal of interest in nature and the outdoors as we react to the speed of the digital age we need to re-engage with life at the speed of nature and it’s recognize it’s unique beauty.

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17-1048 TPX

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SEA MIST

INCA GOLD

NUGGET GOLD

Of Ecological Greens… Ecology is no longer pioneering, instead it integrates seamlessly with our lives and aspirations. Turning urban wasteland into parks, consuming better and less, realizing the quality of our lives is reflected in the quality of our surroundings.

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17-0525 TPX

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GREEN BANANA

MOSS STONE

RIFLE GREEN

TIDE POOL

SPRING BOUQUET

LUCITE GREEN

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11-0710 TPX

12-0633 TPX

MELLOW YELLOW TENDER YELLOW CANARY YELLOW


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Of Cultural Blues… Creating new spaces that are part of a collective yet allow for each individual to be unique on an urban scale, at work, school or the home, transcending all cultural aspects from the arts to sports.

Of Recreational Chambrays… After being on a treadmill, leisure time re-emerges as we rediscover how to relax. Enjoying time with families and friends in real time, learning to enjoy experiencing life instead of consuming it.

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PATRIOT BLUE

INFINITY

BIJOU BLUE

STONE BLUE

STARLIGHT BLUE

BALLAD BLUE

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15-3915 TPX

GREEN-BLUE SLATE

AQUA

VIRIDIAN GREEN

BLITHE

TURKISH SEA

KENTUCKY BLUE

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Of Digital Neutrals… As the boundaries between what is real and what is digital are blurred we seek a softer and more tactile relationship with technology. As we shop online more how we view images on screen has to embody reality and sensuality.

Of Homely Browns… How we use our homes and our environment is changing rapidly to accommodate multi-generational family living, live work spaces and more socializing at home. Global lifestyles have to work together in harmony, combining ancient and technological skills for the new artisan.

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COFFEE BEAN

TANNIN

CAPPUCCINO

RAW SIENNA

COPPER BROWN

EVENING SAND

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BRIGHT WHITE

SAND SHELL

GRAY DAWN

METALLIC SILVER

FROST GRAY

DARK SHADOW


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Of Ceremonial Oranges… A sense of community and our need to live or move in groups has gained in importance. No longer defined by heritage, instead creating new clans and tribes that are defined by interests and experiences, our commonality expressed by whom we are not where we are from.

Of Romantic Pinks…. Blurring the boundaries of gender in looks and roles celebrates the floral and feminine along with the mystical and romantic. This blurring has also evolved between East and West as their cultures have influenced and now combine.

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GRAPE WINE

HYACINTH VIOLET

GRAY LILAC

STRAWBERRY ICE

TEA BERRY

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MUSK MELON

CORAL

HOT CORAL

RED ORANGE

AURORA RED

CHILLI PEPPER

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Milano Unica, Milan

An Italian business trade show, featuring Italian & European textiles manufacturers.... The exhibition registered continuous growth with over 19,000 visitors (+5.5%), this year, mostly due to an increase in Italian clients. Foreign visitors showed a slight decline (-2%, after being on the rise in the last two editions), perhaps due to the Chinese New Year or the Textile Fair in Munich during the same period...

Silvio Albini

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he trade show saw the participation of 417 exhibitors against the 440 of the past February 2012 edition (-5.6%). Silvio Albini, President of Milano Unica, Michele Tronconi, President of Sistema Moda Italia, and Sir Paul Smith, designer, prominent British entrepreneur and great admirer of made-in-Italy textiles, inaugurated the 16th edition of the Italian Textiles Trade Show. The gross exhibition area occupied, corresponding to 62,200 sqm, was in line with the past levels. An overall positive message for the textile sector characterized the three Milan fair days, despite the numerous difficulties Italian firms have to deal with, due to rise in productions costs and the weakening domestic and European markets. These problems were outlined during the inaugural ceremony by Silvio Albini, President of Milano Unica, and

Michele Tronconi

Michele Tronconi, President of Sistema Moda Italia. The significant rise in percentage of visitors was seen from Japan (+25%), USA (+20%), India (+19%), Mexico (+19%), Finland (+16%), Turkey (+6.5%) and Switzerland (+3%). Hong Kong and Great Britain maintained the highest figures, while for the first time buyers from Kazakhstan, Colombia, South Africa and Angola were also present. Silvio Albini, President of Milano Unica confirmed the increase in attendance, in quality and quantity together with the general satisfaction of exhibitors. “It was immensely gratifying for all of us who have worked incessantly for the success of the Italian Textile Fair. It was also an important signal for the Italian and European quality textile markets. The combined presence of Italian clothing

Sir Paul Smith


manufacturers and international buyers from important countries made us look towards the future with more optimism. Even if we do not have to conceal the numerous obstacles which often inhibit a continuous and solid recovery, the interest that was sparked by the fabric and accessory collections presented at this edition, lead us to take an optimistic outlook based on reason and not only on willpower ”. He added, “Large amounts of new contacts, sample requests, appointments scheduled at company headquarters demonstrate that aside from us, there is an important world that looks towards our firms with great interest that can help consolidate the present and project the future. As Sir Paul Smith so effectively showed us, we have to innovate our means of communication above all, knowing that our new horizon of reference is the world. We will begin to put this into practice at the end of March when we take Milano

Unica to Beijing, putting our exhibitors face to face with continuous growth, which today, together with Hong Kong represents our second market outlet on an international level”. An extraordinary concert conducted by Maestro Zubin Mehta with the Orchestra del Maggio Fiorentino, and the initiative organized by Canepa to illustrate the innovations adopted to save water and energy in the textile production process, further confirmed the attention that Milano Unica and participating firms have demonstrated to the problems related to a sustainable environment. Sir Paul Smith, the most famous designer in England, besides being a successful entrepreneur, was named baronet by Queen Elizabeth in 2000. His highly acclaimed speech reminded us that much of the inspiration for his collections derived from what he had seen at the Fair. “Many years ago – began Paul Smith,


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RTW|Fashion Shows & Trade Fairs a frequent visitor of Moda In, Ideacomo, Shirt Avenue and Ideabiella and then Milano Unica - I saw a fabric printed with photographs. From that day on, I have used millions of meters of fabrics of every type featuring photographs. Of course, I elaborated them to suit my own taste, but if I hadn’t entered that stand on that particular day, one of my most renowned trademarks, photographic prints, would never have existed�. Massimo Mosiello, General Manager of Milano Unica, organizer of the textile-accessories event since the first edition commented, “The participation of numerous guests and journalists from foreign specialized press has brought us enormous gratification, also because it was accompanied by their appreciation for the organization of services and events. Positive comments also came on behalf of the exhibitors. Milano Unica is a marketing event and not only a business opportunity; its success depends on how much it is appreciated by different groups. We have conducted our commitment along with the organization of the China version, this time in Beijing, thanks to the


professionalism of all my collaborators. The next edition in Milan presenting Fall/ Winter 2014/2015 collections, will take place September 10-12, 2013 at the Portello -Fieramilanocity ”. The Milano Unica standout music event, following the tradition, was tied to charity. On this occasion, the proceeds were donated to CESVI, one of Italy ’s most active non-governmental organizations in the field of international co-operation, to support the “Houses of Smiles” project currently operational in Brazil, Haiti, Peru, India, Zimbabwe and South Africa. In the past editions the sums collected through the participation of exhibitors were donated to the Lega

del Filo d’Oro for the reconstruction of a school at L’Aquila after the earthquake; the Fondazione Francesca Rava for the children of Haiti, victims of the earthquake, and UNHCR, the United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees, for the children in Somalia and their families, decimated by a severe famine. Other following event at the exhibition was “Buttons: art and fashion” that showcased approximately 4,000 samples on display, curated by Franco Jacassi, reminded the viewers that Italy is the world leader in this sector, and the presentation of the first Blumine work, dedicated to Italian eco-sustainable textiles and accessories.


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India Art Fair 2013, New Delhi

According to Greek philosopher, Aristotle, the aim of art is to represent not the outward appearance of things, but their inward significance. This quote ubiquitously emanates the power of art in the capital city of Delhi which hosted the 5th Edition of India Art Fair from 31st January to 3rd of February 2013…

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ndia Art Fair 2013 provided an opportunity to see a diverse spectrum of art and offered a brand new line up of exciting works. The event continued to focus on providing a bridge building platform to spread deeper awareness, and create wider access to art in India at a time when the global economy and the art market in particular, faces a challenging business environment. The fair included 106 exhibitors from 24 countries in the general exhibition area and solo projects. It also included a video lounge, an art bookstore, art projects and a Speakers’ Forum with over 40 eminent speakers.

The Edition brought together a diverse and a dynamic set of galleries and artists, showcasing a breadth of modern and contemporary art practices by established and emerging artists including painting, sculpture, new media, installation and performance art. It offered international galleries a great platform to present their works and explore the Indian art market, to meet new collectors and build relationships with key stakeholders. The 42 international exhibiting galleries represented 24 countries including India and present exciting art from several new regions such as Argentina, Bangladesh, Israel, Korea, Latvia, Turkey, Pakistan and Russia. The fair also featured leading Indian galleries from Delhi, Mumbai, Bangalore, Chennai, Kolkata, Hyderabad,

Jaipur, Kochi and Agra. Spread across 20,000 sq feet, the fair was visited by approximately 2,60,000 people from across the country. Neha Kirpal, Founding Director of India Art Fair said, “The focus of the art fair, given the present business environment particularly in the art sector, is on developing new audiences, and initiating new energy in the Indian art market.” Amin Jaffer, International Director Asian Art, Christie’s said that Christie’s is delighted to support the India Art Fair in 2013 as we recognize its importance as a convening moment for all those who are passionate about the future of the Indian art market and are interested in India’s national artistic development.


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Anjolie Ela Menon

Exhibitor’s say 1. The 100 year old Bruno Art Gallery representing Israeli and Jewish artists worldwide, received an excellent response from its debut show in India. “What has been amazing is that our gallery has drawn people of all ages, we have had a phenomenal experience in the past three days. We are glad that most established curators, artistes, collectors and historians are coming over to understand works of Yaakov Agam, the famous Israeli sculptor and experimental artist, who is an innovator of Kinetic Art,” said Sakshi Mahajan. 2. Shobha Bhatia from Gallerie Ganesha

chose small format displays and miniatures made by very senior and acknowledged masters such as Paresh Maity, Jaisri Burman, Maya Burman and Neeraj Goswami among several others. She said, “Small paintings invite you in for an intimate dialogue. It also is a challenge for an artiste to make effective miniatures. This format has been appreciated a lot. India Art Fair is a great platform for the people who could not afford trip abroad to come and see international qualities of art.” 3. Qaroon J Thapar from the View In groom gallery based in Bombay came for the first time at the India Art Fair to showcase works of artists such as Gurcharan Singh,

Akbar Padamsee Dhananjay Singh and Senaka Senanayake from Sri Lanka. “It has been a wonderful exhibition so far. Our sales have been good. We are more than happy with the response. The collection was very well -received and appreciated by a huge cluster of collectors. The fair has seen a good representation of the modern artists as well as the contemporary artists. In the current scenario, buyers are more selective with what they want to buy. The global recession is not totally worn off, though sales have been excellent,” said Qaroon. 4. Parul Vadhera, one of the directors of Vadhera Art gallery, said that “India Art Fair is an important event to showcase


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Indian and international art. It is a great place to understand and explore what is happening in the art world.” 5. Dian Krisztina at Viltin Galeria from Budapest, Hungary exhibited works projecting rocket shaped artworks which is a metaphor for human will. “The unique quality of the collection is that it is truly Hungarian. We have chosen this platform for this sort of exchange which is imperative in place like India which has a growing art market. We are just getting a feeler of what art means to people and we find some extraordinary responses. Hope the trend of appreciating good art goes a long way,” said Dian.

6. Sculptor Nantu Bihari Das, from Gallery Sanskriti was highly inspired by the playful mood of children. About the sculptor Ambika Beri, gallery Sanskrit said that the artist wanted to show duality using pins for giving soft and furry expression to the piece. “He has attempted to give a dwarf impression to the sculptors. The technique is original and execution is done single-handedly. The sculptors have received an overwhelming response and are appreciated across the India Art Fair,” said Ambika. 7. Juanjo Vicedo from Invesart gallery from Spain introduced American, Spanish, and European artistes; “We have decided to exhibit here because India

has a big niche market for art works. We have brought Miquel Barceló, Joan Miro and Damien Hirst works here which are not presented anywhere in the world mainly in terms of quality and size.” 8. Usha Gawdey, Deputy Director, Sakshi Gallery in Mumbai said, “At the Indian Art Fair, one gets to see different kind of art. The collectors can see different variety at one single place instead of going from gallery to gallery. Artistes also get good exposure. We are here to mark our presence and the fair really has served our purpose of promoting the art forms.” in society, and champion the exquisite balance of form and function in the pieces themselves.

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Visitor’s collective view A visitor from Spain visiting India Art Fair for the second time, Aaron Gabriel said, “A good cross section of modern artiste, and senior artists represented their works. It has been genuinely a soul-stirring experience. India Art Fair is an organized event and one gets to see many good works at one single place. I loved coming over here.” Advertising professional, Shivarama Krishnan, a regular visitor from Delhi enjoyed the exhibited works and sported an ear to ear grin on his face while talking about the fantastic artwork. “I direly admire MF Husain’s art pieces but

I see some modern artists emerging big time. I was looking forward to seeing all these famous international painters under one roof; marvelous time spent here.” Biswajit das, a photographer and graphic designer said, “The illuminating aspect and the visual imagery of the art works at MK Search Art gallery is ecstatic. I enjoyed the art work displayed over here. I am an artist myself so I know what is the amount of energy, time and intricacy is involved in the works.” Alison Macbeth from California, who works at the Education policy in UNESCO said, “I am interested in Indian art which is why I was excited to come here. This is world

famous and I have been very impressed with the art fair. What I particularly like were the lounge areas for private meetings where one could have serious discussions about art. There are so many artists and art galleries which caught my fancies, it is spectacularly lovely exhibition!” Nishant Shukla, a photographic artist from United Kingdom was excited to see the sculptures, “I predominantly came here to look at photographic works, but there so many installations that are attractive and noteworthy. The sculptures are the describers of the artist’s mental framework and shows how he has really gone under the skin. Anybody who is an art enthusiast, would love to appreciate it.”


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Vibha Galhotra

MK SEARCH ART MK Search Art Gallery presented multicultural art forms featuring Indian artists Vibha Galhotra, Monali Meher, Remen Chopra and Sonia Jose. “ MK Search Art aims at promoting young and contemporary artists, focusing on India and other countries. MK Search Art, as a project has a mission to promote Indian artiste at the larger international canvas. We believe that Indian artists have a huge potential and through our humble attempts, the project brings to the fore, the talent of Indian artists,” said the talent curator of MK search Art, Luciano Donnatini. MK Search Art is headed by Mr. Roney Simon, Luciano Donatini and Tommaso Amico di Meane in 2010. Remen Chopra’s works convey the deep complexity of time as a state, wherein lies the redemption of mankind. The works are static in it’s outwardly presence, and lucid in meaning, these works resemble a detailed report of impressions and connections with the intensity of the laws of universe.

MK Search Art team (L to R) Luciano Donatini, Mr. Roney Simon, Nicola and Tommaso Amico di Meane

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ZegnArt Public, Mumbai

ZegnArt Public/India launches in collaboration with Dr. Bhau Daji Lad Museum, MUMBAI

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rmenegildo Zegna Group’s Art initiative, ZegnArt Public / India launches in collaboration with Dr. Bhau Daji Lad Museum (Mumbai). ZegnArt branches various international projects realized by the company in the field of contemporary visual arts, in collaboration with curators, cultural institutions and organizations. The entire project is conceived by Cecilia Canziani and Simone Menegoi, and co-curated with Andrea Zegna. The curatorial team will work directly with the curator of the cultural institution in the selected location.

Public

Combining public artwork commission and a residency program, Public is formatted with a three-year operational calendar, where the focus will be on countries such as Turkey (September 2013) and Brazil (2014), post its current focus on India. As a concept, the project seeks new challenges within the public sphere and aims to focus on a stimulating and meaningful dimensions. The Project focuses on an emerging country, where onsite construction of a work of public art is to be commissioned from an artist in mid-career from within the host country and created in

collaboration with a local institution of international profile. The First Edition focuses on India where Reena Kallat has been selected as the protagonist of the first edition of ZegnArt Public, and has created the public work of art, titled “Cobweb / Crossing” for the Museum in Mumbai. In terms of Mumbai, it is hoped that it will ‘’test the concept of public space in comparison with the urban fabric of India’s most densely populated city.’’ The selection process was done by the curatorial team, composed of the two curators and Andrea Zegna, coordinator of the project, in collaboration with


Art & Design|RTW

Tasneem Mehta, director of the Museum. Seven artists were invited to submit a proposal for artwork specifically designed for the project: Alwar Balasubramaniam, Atul Bhalla, Sakshi Gupta, Reena Kallat, Srivanasa Prasad, Gigi Scaria, and Hema Upadhyay. The art installation, produced by the Ermenegildo Zegna Group is donated to the Dr. Bhau Daji Lad Museum and will remain on exhibit for a period of six weeks on the main facade of the museum. Over the next eleven years Reena Kallat’s artwork will be exhibited an additional three times and can also be lent to other institutions.

The Residency

ZegnArt’s partner for the residency grant is the MACRO Museum of Contemporary Art of Rome. Every every edition of Public offers a residency grant to support a young artist in Italy. As a part of its annual project, the MACRO Museum of Contemporary Art of Rome welcomed the proposal of hosting the selected winning artist. Sahej Rahal is the artist who has been chosen for the residency project at the MACRO, for which he will stay in Italy for four months, starting from August 2013. At the end of the experience, he will have the opportunity to present the

works developed throughout the stay in a special exhibition held within the space used as a studio. As a well-structured project, ZegnArt Public’s mission is being achieved which is to explore a wide range of possibilities in heterogeneous social and cultural contexts, foster the exchange of resources and knowledge, and as an educational model, be able to support the development of ethical and civic values.

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RTW|Art & Design

The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

PUNK: Chaos to Couture This Spring 2013 exhibition organized by The Costume Institute of The Metropolitan Museum of Art is on view from May 9 through August 14, 2013 & examines Punk’s impact on high fashion from the movement’s birth in the 1970s through its continuing influence today…

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The Met’s spring 2013 Costume Institute exhibition, PUNK: Chaos to Couture, examines punk’s impact on high fashion from the movement’s birth in the early 1970s through its continuing influence today. Featuring approximately one hundred designs for men and women, the exhibition includes original punk garments and recent, directional fashion to illustrate how haute couture and ready-to-wear borrow punk’s visual symbols.


Art & Design|RTW

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1. Rei Kawakubo (Japanese, born 1942) for Comme des Garçons (Japanese, founded 1969), 1982, Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Photograph by Peter Lindbergh 2. 16.Karl Lagerfeld (French, born Hamburg, 1938) for House of Chanel (French, founded 1913), Vogue, March 2011, Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Photograph by David Sims

4 3. Rodarte (American, founded 2005), Vogue, July 2008, Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Photograph by David Sims

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Focusing on the relationship between the Punk concept of ‘Do-it-Yourself’ and the Couture concept of ‘Madeto-Measure’, the exhibition is organized around the materials, techniques, and embellishments associated with the anti-establishment style. Presented as an immersive multimedia, multisensory experience, the clothes are animated with period music videos and soundscaping audio techniques.

4. Jordan, 1977, Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Photograph from Rex USA

Exhibition Overview

The exhibition, in the Museum’s second-floor Cantor galleries, features approximately 100 designs for men and women. Original punk garments from the mid-1970s are juxtaposed with recent, directional fashion to illustrate how haute couture and ready-to-wear have borrowed punk’s visual symbols, with paillettes being replaced with safety pins, feathers with razor blades, and bugle beads with studs. Organized thematically, each of the seven galleries have designated punk ‘heroes’ who embody the broader concepts behind the fashions on view. The first gallery is devoted to CBGB in New York City, represented by Blondie, Richard Hell, The Ramones, and Patti Smith. Next is a gallery inspired by Malcolm McClaren


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and Vivienne Westwood and their Seditionaries boutique at 430 King’s Road in London. The Clothes for Heroes gallery, embodied by Jordan, examine designers who extend the visual language of punk, as it was originally articulated by McLaren and Westwood, by merging social realism with artistic expression.

Do-it-Yourself, Punk’s Enduring Contribution to High Fashion This is explored in the four final galleries: D.I.Y. Hardware focuses on couture’s use of studs, spikes, chains, zippers, padlocks, safety pins, and razor blades, with Sid Vicious as its icon;

8 5. Richard Hell, late 1970s, Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Photograph © Kate Simon 6. Sid Vicious, 1977, Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Photograph © Dennis Morris - all rights reserved 7. John Lydon, 1976, Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Photograph by Richard Young/Rex USA 8. Hussein Chalayan (British, born Cyprus, 1970), spring/summer 2003, Dazed and Confused, March 2003, Photograph by Eric Nehr

D.I.Y. Bricolage highlights the impact of punk’s ethos of customization on high fashion, including the use of recycled materials from trash and consumer culture, as epitomized by Wayne County; D.I.Y. Graffiti and Agitprop explores punk’s tradition of provocation and confrontation through images and text exemplified by The Clash; D.I.Y. Destroy examines the effect of punk’s rip-it-to-shreds spirit, typified by Johnny Rotten, via torn and shredded garments associated with deconstructionism. Designers in the exhibition include Miguel Adrover, Thom Browne, Christopher Bailey

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Burberry, Hussein Chalayan, Francisco Costa Calvin Klein, Christophe Decarnin Balmain, Ann Demeulemeester, Dior, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana Dolce and Gabbana, John Galliano, Nicolas Ghesquière Balenciaga, Katharine Hamnett, Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren Viktor & Rolf, Christopher Kane, Rei Kawakubo Comme des Garçons, Karl Lagerfeld Chanel, Helmut Lang, Martin Margiela, Malcolm McLaren, Alexander McQueen, Franco Moschino and Rossella Jardini Moschino, Kate and Laura Mulleavy Rodarte, Miuccia Prada, Gareth Pugh, Zandra Rhodes, Hedi Slimane Saint Laurent, Stephen Sprouse, Jun Takahashi Undercover, Joseph Thimister, Riccardo Tisci Givenchy, Gianni Versace, Junya Watanabe, Yohji Yamamoto, and Vivienne Westwood. Thomas P. Campbell, Director and CEO of The Metropolitan Museum of Art quoted that “Punk’s signature mixing of references was fueled by artistic developments such as Dada and postmodernism, so it makes sense to present this exhibition in a museum that also shows the broader output of those movements.” The exhibition is organized by Andrew Bolton, Curator, in the Met’s Costume Institute who said that “Since its origins, punk has had an incendiary influence on fashion; although punk’s democracy stands in opposition to fashion’s autocracy, designers continue to appropriate punk’s aesthetic vocabulary to capture its youthful rebelliousness and aggressive forcefulness.”


London Fashion Week S/S 2013-14 | Show Report|RTW

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