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LESSON 3 THE FRENCH KNOT, LAZY DAISY AND BUTTONHOLE STITCHES IN EMBROIDERY

STRUCTURE 3.0

OBJECTIVES

3.1

INTRODUCTION

3.2

THE FRENCH KNOT

3.3

BUTTONHOLE STITCH

3.4

LAZY DAISY STITCH

3.5

ASSIGNMENTS 3.5.1 CLASS ASSIGNMENTS 3.5.2 HOME ASSIGNMENTS

3.6

SUMMING UP

3.7

POSSIBLE ANSWERS TO SELF-CHECK QUESTIONS

3.8

TERMINAL QUESTIONS

3.9

REFERENCES AND SUGGESTED FURTHER READING

3.10 GLOSSARY


3. THE FRENCH KNOT, LAZY DAISY AND BUTTONHOLE STITCHES IN EMBROIDERY In the previous lesson, the precautions to be observed during embroidery were first discussed. Then three new types of stitches, namely, Feather stitch, Satin stitch and Long & Short stitch were described along with their applications. In this lesson we will learn about three additional types of stitches.

3.0

Objectives After going through this lesson you will be able to

Understand how to make French knot and also the application of this stitch.

Understand the Lazy Daisy stitch and its uses.

Understand the Buttonhole stitch and its various uses.

3.1

Introduction

In this third and final lesson on embroidery, which is an important ornamentation technique for textiles, we will learn about three new stitches namely, French knot, Lazy Daisy stitch and Buttonhole stitch. These stitches are fairly simple and give the design a full look.

3.2

The French knot

French knot (Fig. 3.1) is a small knot made by needle and thread. It looks like a ‘dot’ in embroidery. These dot-like stitches add not only colour, but a raised texture to enhance an embroidery design.

Fig. 3.1 The French knot

The French knot is a popular way of adding three dimensionality to what might otherwise be too flat a design. The thickness of the thread will determine the size of the finished knot. It can be made more delicate by using only one strand of the yarn.

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It can create flower centres and the eyes of an embroidered figure. Prominent outlines of animals and birds can be shown by close embroidery. The French knot is also known as French dot, knotted stitch, twisted knot stitch, wound stitch. Method to embroider (Fig. 3.2): •

Bring the needle up at a point where the French knot is to be made.

Hold the yarn tight with the left hand.

Wrap the yarn around the needle once or twice. Keep holding the thread loop tightly against the needle. Put the tip of the needle through the fabric right next to the spot where you came up.

Tug on the loop so it stays wrapped snugly around the needle and sits on the fabric.

While you hold the loop on the fabric with your thumb, reach under the fabric and pull the needle down through the fabric.

As you pull, a French knot will form on the surface of the fabric.

For outline embroidery, make continuous line of knots. For floral designs, take the knots close to one another.

Use a 7 to 9 number of a sharp and round eye needle for it.

Fig. 3.2 The French Knot

Fig. 3.3 An example of French Knots

Uses - This stitch is used in photo frames, hankies, bibs, baby frocks which look beautiful with the use of French knots. An embroidered fabric based on use of this technique is shown in Fig. 3.3.

Self-check Questions Fill in the blanks 1. French knot is a small ______ made by ________ and ________. It looks like a “_____” in embroidery. These dot-like stitches add not only ________, but a raised texture to __________ an embroidery design. 2. French knot is also known as: i) _______ dot, ii) Knotted _______, iii) Twisted _______ stitch, iv) Wound _________.

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3.3

Buttonhole Stitch

Buttonhole stitch is a tight loop stitch formed around the edges of a hole. It reinforces or strengthens the edges. This stitch is the most appropriate stitch for sewing buttonholes. It is used to prevent fraying of the buttonhole. Buttonhole stitch is also known as the ‘blanket stitch’ because it is often used as an edging on blankets. It is also used in patchwork and appliqué. It is used to secure a piece of cloth to the background fabric. This stitch can be used in any type of design. It can be used in flowered motifs as well as for outlining. It is used extensively in Cutwork Embroidery. Method to embroider (Fig. 3.4): •

Bring the needle out from below upward on the design line.

According to the width of the stitch, the needle should be inserted at one edge and taken out from the other edge.

Before pulling the needle through, carry the yarn under the needle point.

The stitch width should be even. The stitches should be worked very close together to keep continuity.

In case of groups in buttonhole stitch, even space should be maintained after each group.

Fig. 3.4 Buttonhole stitch

Fig. 3.5 An example of Buttonhole stitch

Uses - It makes the corners of table covers, bed sheets, sofa covers, sleeves of blouse, sari borders very attractive (Fig. 3.5). This stitch is also used in Gubba shawls of Kashmir.

Self-check Questions Fill in the blanks 3. The buttonhole stitch is the most appropriate stitch for sewing __________. It is used to prevent __________ of the buttonhole. 4. Buttonhole stitch is also known as the ‘ __________stitch’ because it is often used as an ______ on blankets. The buttonhole stitch is also used in _________ and __________.

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3.4

Lazy Daisy Stitch

The Lazy Daisy stitch (Fig. 3.6) is also called the Loop Stitch, as it is worked by making a loop. When these loops are made in a row, then they are called the “chain stitch”. These loops are often worked in a circle to form a floral motif; then they are called by the name of “lazy daisy stitch”. The various steps used to embroider are: •

It is worked by taking out the needle from below upward at the base of the petal or the flower.

The needle is then inserted back into the same hole and taken out at some distance above it. The yarn is required to be carried under the needle point.

The loop yarn is pressed firmly under the thumb and the needle is gently pulled out. The needle is then inserted just over a chain loop.

While making the stitch, proper shape and distance should be maintained.

A sharp long eye needle of 7 to 9 numbers is needed for this stitch.

Fig. 3.6 Lazy Daisy stitch

Fig. 3.6 An example of Lazy Daisy stitch

When a petal is broad, two chain loops can be made, one inside and the other out side. It gives a filling effect. Two threads of different colours can be used for a broad petal. The colour scheme makes it more attractive.

Fig. 3.7 Double layered Lazy Daisy stitch

Fig. 3.8 An example of double layered Lazy Daisy stitch

Uses - Lazy Daisy is an ideal stitch where less embroidery and faster work is required. It is used to embroider small petals and leaves (Fig. 3.6). It is also used to give filling effect.

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Self-check Questions Fill in the blanks 5. The Lazy Daisy stitch is also called the ______ Stitch, as it is worked by making a loop. When these loops are made in a row, then they are called the “_______ stitch”.

3.5

Assignments

3.5.1 Class assignments i)

On the same 8” by 12” fabric, embroider straight horizontal lines of 6” each. Embroider with French knot, Buttonhole stitch and Lazy Daisy stitch.

ii)

Trace three simple designs on a fabric 8” by 12” using one of the methods discussed in the previous class.

iii)

After you have completed tracing the designs, embroider the first design using the French knot, the second design using the Buttonhole stitch and the third design using the Lazy Daisy stitch.

3.5.2 Home assignment i)

3.6

Find and bring a sample of any work done using French knot stitch or Buttonhole stitch or the Lazy Daisy stitch.

Summing Up

In this lesson we have considered three additional stitches viz., French Knot, Lazy Daisy and Buttonhole. Being the final lesson dealing with embroidery, it is instructive to recap what we have learnt on this subject. We were first introduced to embroidery as an exquisite art of India and were told about the various types of stitches used in embroidery. Various examples of their applications in daily life were given and the precautions to be taken while doing embroidery were explained. Embroidery has always been to the fore in India’s uniquely rich textile tradition. Though it had originated as a form of self expression, it is now a major trendsetter in the fashion industry. Major contributing factors to the survival of traditional embroidery are the ongoing fashion trends. Giving traditional embroidery a modern twist makes them appealing to the next generation. The creative embroideries are done on articles of personal wear like the kurtas, dupattas, veils, saris, handkerchiefs and dress materials. The household decorative accessories like curtains, dining table mats, napkins, trays, wall hanging pieces, table covers can also carry on them the delicate embroidery motifs and borders to enhance the pleasant look of the room with their delicacy and beauty. It is like a magic wand that transforms nothing into something, fills blankness with substance and emptiness with meaningfulness. 7


3.7

Possible Answers to Self-check Questions Fill in the blanks

1. French knot is a small knot made by needle and thread. It looks like a ‘dot’ in embroidery. These dot-like stitches add not only colour, but a raised texture to enhance an embroidery design. 2. French knot is also known as: i) French dot ii) knotted stitch, iii) twisted knot stitch, iv) wound stitch. 3. The buttonhole stitch is the most appropriate stitch for sewing buttonholes. It is used to prevent fraying of the buttonhole. 4. Buttonhole stitch is also known as the ‘blanket stitch’ because it is often used as an edging on blankets. The buttonhole stitch is also used in patchwork and appliqué. 5. The Lazy Daisy stitch is also called the Loop Stitch, as it is worked by making a loop. When these loops are made in a row, then they are called the “chain stitch”.

3.8 1.

3.9

Terminal Questions What are the main applications of the French knot, Buttonhole stitch and Lazy Daisy stitch?

References and Suggested Further Reading

1.

Chattopadhyay, K. 1977. Indian Embroidery. Wiley Eastern Ltd. New Delhi.

2.

Mistry, N. C. Embroidery Designs. Navneet Publications Ltd. Mumbai.

3.

Naik, S. D. 1996. Traditional Embroideries of India. A.P.H. Publishing Corporation. New Delhi.

3.10 Glossary

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1. Application

The action of making use of something learnt

2. Blankness

Bare or plain

3. Determine

To establish

4. Dimensionality

Measurability of extent such as length, breadth or height


5. Emptiness

Containing nothing

6. Enhance

Increase the quality, value or extent of

7. Exquisite

Very beautiful and delicate

8. Fray

Unravel or become worn at the edge

9. Ideal

Most suitable; perfect

10. Instructive

Useful and informative

11. Meaningfulness

Having meaning

12. Prominent

Important; particularly noticeable

13. Reinforce

Make stronger

14. Substance

Quality of adding importance

15. Technique

Particular way of doing something, requiring special skills

16. Trendsetter

one who leads the way in fashion or ideas

17. Tug

A hard or sudden pull

18. Twisted

Bend, curl or distort

19. Unique

Being the only one of its kind

20. Wound

Twisted or turned

21. Wrap

Cover or enclose

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CTD-203-L-3