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Madagascar ‘The Eighth Continent’ By Solange Hando
M
Travel
adagascar is the world’s oldest island: it first split from Africa and then from India around 70 million years ago. In the Indian Ocean, between the Mozambique mainland to the west and Reunion and Mauritius to the east, it is the fourth largest island on earth, almost 1,000 miles long, 360 across, best known for the unique flora and fauna which evolved in isolation for a surprisingly long time. According to experts, the first settlers arrived from Borneo in 500 AD and since then, 90% of the original forest has been lost, and deforestation is still ongoing. Most affected are the more densely populated central highlands, laced with paddies and barren hills, but Madagascar still claims over 40 special reserves and national parks – several of them listed as UNESCO World Heritage – with a rich diversity of habitats. Ecosystems range from dry spiny forest in the south, dotted with baobabs and octopus trees, to mangroves and lakes, deciduous trees and dramatic pinnacles in the west and tropical rainforest in the east, where some of the most popular national parks can be accessed from Antananarivo.
Ranomafana is a good 10 hour drive south of the capital, the route winding past colourful villages and hills with spectacular views. But one can overnight in Antsirabe, a pretty place bustling with rickshaws and craft shops, then continue the next day. Driving down at dusk in the final stages, it feels almost like the end of the world as the seemingly impenetrable cloud forest rises all around above the Namorona river and waterfall. Morning is the best time to explore the park, when animals are more active. This is where golden bamboo lemurs were first discovered in 1986 and, along the steep trails, nature lovers may be rewarded with wonderful sights as they and other lemurs leap through the trees, playing with their young or swinging from branches. Guides imitate the call to locate them and also point out spiders, frogs, red giraffenecked beetles and tropical birds such as pastel-hued cuckoo rollers or magpie robins. Mossy memorial stones recall ‘ancient people of the forest’ among tall tree and bird’s nest ferns, traveller’s palms, orchids and lobelia. Chameleons can also be spotted, perfectly camouflaged day or night.
East of the capital, the Andasibe-Mantadia national park is an easier option, just a four hour drive with a choice of walking circuits and gentle paths. Palm and dragon trees mingle with eucalyptus, blue tea plants, bird’s nectar, berries and much more. There are birds and butterflies, reptiles, geckos and several species of lemurs, including indris, the largest of them all, whose melancholy ‘singing’ can be heard at dawn. On the nearby river islands, now a sanctuary for rescued lemurs, black and white ruffed lemurs, playful ringtails and lovely diademed sifaka, or ‘dancing lemur’, happily pose for wide-eyed visitors paddling in canoes around the reed beds. Fauna or flora, around 90% of species are found nowhere else on earth and one can barely imagine 14,000 species of plants, many with medicinal properties, 170 species of palms, thousands of orchids, hundreds of birds, fish and over 100 species of lemurs, many endangered or rare. It is the world’s top biodiversity hotspot, ‘the eighth continent’, say some ecologists, and in this impoverished but beautiful ‘red island’, one hopes the goverment will bring greater stability and progress to benefit both the people and their incredible natural world.
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