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TREND REPORT Autumn/Winter 2015


THE NEW SEASON STARTS HERE

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s the Autumn/Winter season is now upon us, we welcome the new trends with open arms. The seventies are here to stay this season, as Chloe’s hippie girl goes haute (and a little bit rock and roll) for Autumn with snakeskin miniskirts and pussybow blouses. As party season draws closer, Balmain has your occasion wear covered; think Saturday Night Fever-esque sequins, perfect for any disco soiree. If discernable seventies isn’t your style, fear not. Get your retro fix from Gucci, who took inspiration from Wes Anderson’s leading ladies; Margot Tenenbaum and Moonrise Kingdom’s Suzie – geek chic at its very best. Feeling something more feminine? Ladylike silhouettes and prim two pieces were plentiful; from Prada to Stella McCartney - it’s time to channel your inner deb.

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For those who favour something a little more melancholic, Alexander McQueen was up to its usual tricks; Victorian-inspired pieces with a suitably gothic edge. The beauty of this seasaon? There is truly something for everyone. Eclecticism awaits...


CONTENTS

TREND

03 Seventies Revival 15 Dress Up Trunk

FEATURE

11 That 70s Trend

REFERENCES 23 Bibliography 24 Appendix

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SEVENTIES REVIVAL Back from Spring/Summer with vengeance - the 70s are here to stay


£425 Isabel Marant

THE INSPIRATION ‘Joni Mitchell - the epitome of seventies folklore chic.’

£1, 695 Burberry Prorsum

Bohemian RHAPSODY Fringing, fur and a folksy print; wear together for the ultimate hippie look £2, 295 Burberry Prorsum

Burberry

£236 Chloé

£555 Stella McCartney

£370 Lanvin

£1, 420 Marni

£390 Gucci

£490 Lanvin


TREND

THE BRANDS £3, 504 Loro Piana

£410 Dries Van Noten

‘Chloé, Anna Sui remain symbolic of laid-back bohemian luxe.’

THE CONSUMER

£1,195 Lanvin

‘She is free and spirited, yet craves a more refined hippie style to show sophistication.’ £1, 450 Burberry Prorsum £250 Marni

Anna Sui

£1, 150 Lanvin


Chloé

£1, 265 Saint Laurent

£225 Tory Burch

THE CONSUMER ‘She is confident and combines sexy and masculine silhouettes to showcase carefree attitude.’

£1, 790 Marni

I’m with THE BAND

£245 Gucci

Channel your inner groupie - glam rock is officially back

THE BRANDS

£590 Saint Laurent £500 Saint Laurent

‘Saint Laurent and Rebecca Minkoff paid homage to the 70s rocker, bad girl.’

£1, 735 Emilio Pucci £700 Miu Miu


TREND

THE INSPIRATION ‘Kate Moss and Anita Pallenberg - the ultimate rock chic groupies.’

£720 Saint Laurent

Saint Laurent

£8, 460 Saint Laurent

£630 Gianvito Rossi

£170 Valentino

£165 Rag & Bone

£1, 350 Valentino


£1, 145 Saint Laurent

£1, 287 Balmain

THE INSPIRATION £120 Maria Black

£1, 287 Balmain

‘Bianca Jagger - the original ‘It’ girl and reigning queen of the Studio 54 scene.’

Studio 54 REGULAR Gold, glitter and glam; the diagnostic? Disco fever

£1, 080 Lela Rose

£550 Jimmy Choo

THE CONSUMER ‘She is motivated by the desire to stand out and demands personality from her wardrobe.’

Balmain

£165 Balenciaga


£215 Dolce & Gabbana

£305 Gucci

£505 Saint Laurent

Rodarte

£1, 735 Stella McCartney

£1, 325 Saint Laurent

£553 Altuzarra

£495 Etro

£995 Charlotte Olympia

TREND

£2, 145 Balmain

THE BRANDS ‘Balmain and Saint Laurent channel Studio 54 glamour, taking inspiration from cult 70s brand Halston.’


THAT ‘70s TREND It’s the decade we just can’t seem to get enough of

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ore than ever, it is clear to see that designers have been inspired by a wardrobe that has gone before; culminating into a trend for a nostalgic aesthetic, as vintage influences were apparent in almost every catwalk collection this season. In particular, a decade in fashion that currently seems inescapable is 1970 and countless designers have sought to revamp and revive fashion from this era. Whilst, Spring/Summer paid homage to the Summer of Love and the boho, hippieshake fashion prominent at

the infamous Woodstock festival, this Autumn/Winter sees a ‘second wave’ of seventies style as the trend has appropriately developed for the new season into a more ‘grown-up’ and sumptuous look - but still with serious retro credibility. Casaual factors in the emergence and growth in popularity of seventies fashion are varied. Whilst the origination of the trend clearly harks back to the decade itself, it can also be viewed as a reaction to Oscar-nominated film ‘American Hustle’ and


the outlandish seventies getups worn by the film’s cast (Fig 1). Using vintage Halston and Gucci, costume designer Michael Wilkinson recreated glam 1970s style (Kerry Pieri), causing sales of seventies inspired clothing to rise; Diane von Furstenberg wrap dresses shot up by 201% in 2014. Similarly, gold bangles and stilettos were also subject to the ‘American Hustle effect’ with sales rising by 223% and 103% retrospectively (Taryn Davies 2014). Film director Wes

Anderson can also be connected with the seventies revival as countless designers paid tribute to his fictitious female characters whose sense of style often reflects the sartorial seventies (New Look 2015), such as Margot from The Royal Tenenbaums (Fig 2) and Agatha from The Grand Budapest Hotel. Anderson was named-dropped on several occasions as a source of inspiration for the Autumn/Winter collections; namely due to his ability to merge cinematic style with the world of fashion which, as Andrea Cheng comments, “Hints at a nostalgic time where past memories are happily washed in a pleasant haze of sepia.” The notion of memories and nostalgia has been widely associated with the trend and its media coverage. Seventies style has saturated mainstream media publications ranging from the usual glossies;

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Vogue, Elle, Harper’s Bazaar, to segments within newspapers; The Sunday Times and The Independent. It has even trickled down to women’s weekly gossip magazines such as Hello, Grazia and Look. Within features about seventies fashion, terminology used is related to the idea of a “revival”, “comeback” or “throwback” - the idea that trends from the decade have essentially come full circle. “Retro” and “nostalgia” have also been attributed with the trend, which perhaps suggest a yearning for simpler times of bygone eras. As designer Jonathan Anderson explains, our obsession with the past is because, “Fundamentally, we are living in a moment where no one knows where they are going and everyone is trying to work out whether they fit.” We need look no further than social media to explain the extent of the trend: #throwbackthursday hashtags are awash on Instagram (Weir 2014), showing how, as a society, we are desperately hung up on the past and it would appear that current fashion is reflecting this notion.

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he seventies look is one that has been associated with a myriad of designers this season, but championed by the likes of Chloé, Burberry, Etro and Gucci. From Burberry’s luxe take on bohemian, to Chloé’s Fleetwood Mac-inspired look and Gucci’s geek girls; finding your signature seventies style need not be a problem this Autumn/Winter. So dig out those flares - 1970 is well and truly here to stay.


FEATURE

Suede over the knees’

ON THE STREETS

y r a t li Mi res fla

Denim & paisley 14


DRESS UP TRUNK The new season welcomes luxe eclecticism - anything goes


£315 Miu Miu

£630 Moschino

£340 Miu Miu

£2, 005 Miu Miu

THE CONSUMER ‘Desires classic elegance from clothes, able to convey her femininity, and signify status.’

The DEBUTANTE

Stella McCartney

Pretty and prim pieces topped off with the family heirlooms

£457 Lanvin

£755 Oscar de la Renta

£665 Balenciaga

£2, 600 Mark Cross

£555 Miu Miu


£125 Jennifer Behr

£2, 580 Miu Miu

THE BRANDS ‘Oscar de la Renta and Lanvin embody girlish glamour and sophistication’.

Prada

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TREND

£500 Stella McCartney

THE INSPIRATION

‘Gossip Girl’s Blair Waldorf is the ultimate style pin-up; prim, proper and preppy.’

£1, 425 Stella McCartney

£625 Dolce & Gabbana

£695 Jimmy Choo


THE INSPIRATION

£415 Balenciaga

‘Marianne Faithfull’s effortless and eclectic style circa 1960.’

£160 Gucci

£165 Dolce & Gabbana

Grandma’s ATTIC Take a tip from Granny this season with vintage-inspired pieces

£2, 440 Gucci £990 Oscar de la Renta

£500 Jennifer Meyer

THE BRANDS

£214 Prada

‘Gucci and Miu Miu are champions of the grandma chic look this season.’

£345 Charlotte Olympia

Miu Miu

£755 Golden Goose Deluxe Brand


TREND

£2, 300 Dolce & Gabbana

£795 Bottega Veneta

THE CONSUMER £850 Loewe

‘She is quirky and intelligent, prefers to showcase such attributes through sexless clothes, which have sentimentality.’

£284 For Restless Sleepers

£735 Lanvin

£350 Givenchy

£625 Fendi

Gucci

£290 Gucci


£1, 271 La Doublej

£1, 550 Simone Rocha

£290 Oscar de la Renta

NeoVICTORIAN Dress like it’s 1899; think melancholic velvet and romantic ruffles

£1, 650 Dolce & Gabbana

£581 Stone

THE CONSUMER

£365 Dolce & Gabbana

Alberta Ferretti

Alexander McQueen

£475 Gianvito Rossi

‘She is bold and uses fashion as an armour to show strength reminiscent of Queen Victoria.’ £1, 325 Balenciaga

£445 Givenchy


TREND £645 Dolce & Gabbana £1, 125 Olympia Le-Tan

£1, 035 Alessandra Rich

THE BRANDS ‘Alexander McQueen is king of 19th century opulence and seduction.’ £1, 725 Alessandra Rich

Marc Jacobs

£925 Dolce & Gabbana

THE INSPIRATION ‘Take cues from Penny Dreadful’s Vanessa Ives - modern Victorian style at its very best.’

£665 Balenciaga

£225 Larsson & Jennings


BIBLIOGRAPHY

N.a., 2015. 70s Fashion on Film: Wes Anderson [online]. New Look. Available at: http://daily.newlook.com/blog/august/2015/70s-fashion-on-film-wes-anderson [Accessed 15 September 2015]. Burnside, C., n.d. That ‘70s Trend [online]. The Coveteur. Available at: http://www.thecoveteur.com/how-to-wear-70snow/ [Accessed 20 September 2015]. Cheng, A., 2015. You’ll Never Believe Who Fashion Week’s Most Popular Muse Is (She’s Fictitious) [online]. InStyle. Available at: http://www.instyle.com/news/youll-never-believe-who-fashion-weeks-most-popular-muse-shes-fictitious [Accessed 15 September 2015]. Davies, T., 2014. American Hustle Inspires 70s Fashion Trend Revival [online]. Femalefirst. Available at: http://www. femalefirst.co.uk/lifestyle-fashion/styletrends/american-hustle-inspires-70s-fashion-trend-revival-410575.html [Accessed 17 September 2015]. Gladwell, M., 2000. The Tipping Point: How Little Things Can Make a Big Difference. Pieri, K., n.d. In the 70s Spirit: Shop “American Hustle” [online]. Harper’s Bazaar. Available at: http://www.harpersbazaar. com/fashion/trends/g4543/american-hustle-shopping-guide/ [Accessed 17 September 2015]. Raymond, M., 2010. The Trend Forecaster’s Handbook. London: Laurence King Publishing Ltd. Weir, L., 2014. Return to Retro [online]. Vogue. Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/trends/2015-spring-summer/ return-to-retro [Accessed 20 September 2015].

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ILLUSTRATIONS

Fig 1 Amy Adams in “American Hustle” (2013) Available at: http://www.hollywoodreporter.com/news/american-hustles-amy-adams-how-666832 [Accessed 17 September 2015]. Fig 2 Margot Tenenbaum (date) Available at: http://www. telegraph.co.uk/fashion/style/how-margot-tenenbauminspired-the-runway/ [Accessed 15 September 2015].

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Autumn/Winter 2015 Trend Report  

A trend report identifying key trends within fashion, for Autumn/Winter 2015, and their cultural influences.

Autumn/Winter 2015 Trend Report  

A trend report identifying key trends within fashion, for Autumn/Winter 2015, and their cultural influences.

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